| FREE | SUMMER 2011
The Best of Summer
featuring
Brad Long (p.20)
+ Lakeside Eating + Noshing in the park + Flatbread grilling + Travelling, touring … and more!
a chat with
Daniel Boulud Buffalo’s Bounty
Great cross-border eats!
Plus! Rosé + Gourmet Getaways + Champagne + Gadgets & Books
From the editor FROM THE EDITOR I wrote about waterfront “eateriesâ€? for a little I’ve been lucky of late. I’ve had three meals this local newspaper about seven or eight years ago, past month that put a smile on my face. The first and for the life of me I can’t remember if I actuwas the signature item at The Burger’s Priest in ally found anything. I think the Toronto Islands Leslieville. The second was aacafĂŠ Peking reinhad something. There was nearduck the old
contents Summer 2011
Volume 7, Issue 3
vented a pre-opening dinner at could Lee Lounge, ruins atatSunnyside. I suppose you grab a Susur Lee’s new take on the old Madeline’s space. warm meat stick from a street vendor and walk on The third at Sneaky Dee’s, plate of down, too.was Wish I’d thought ofwhere that ata the time. bar-style chicken wings just plain made me happy. Now we can seriously tell Vancouver to take a Where there’s joyless in food, there’s alwayseateries hike, as we have no than four fantastic excellence. AndOntario it feels like a surge inp.the food along our Lake frontage (see 21). It’s scene a lot of energy and no ideas, and still a right hell ofnow, a slog to get there, and easier since places Mayor to (and thecook, termetc. loosely) Rob is Ford great eat,I use shop, CityBites cancelled Fort Yorkpartner Cyclingwith andthe Pedestrian pleased tothe once again Salut Bridge. the dude spent anyceleseriWine + Not Foodlike Festival, nowhas in ever its third year ous timeexcellence getting the oldbringing heart rate up by doing brating and innovative food either ofanthose carb-burning leisure activities. Terroir, incredible hospitality industry conBut I digress morons make me do And ference that’s— happening the day thisthat. magazine not like the city needs anything beautiful andit goes to print, so we’ll have to tell you about
functional thatkeeps we can be proud of and enjoy‌. 2011, and just growing. I digress Idiot mayor. Eventsagain‌. like these bring the city’s food scene
OK, I’m done ranting. Enjoy the summer, its vital focus, on quality, innovation, ideas and and eat all you can. As long as it’s good for just pure joy. Which reminds me of my fourth you and the environment. And you work it off. smile-inspiring meal—an east-meets-west feast Support your locals! at Senses in the SoHo Metropolitan. Patrick Lin, Dickman’s Snyder, Editor • dick@citybites.ca the sublime. $ICK 3NYDER %DITOR s DICK CITYBITES CA
Editor Dick Snyder/dick@citybites.ca Art Director Craig Sinclair/craigdesign@hurontel.on.ca
Associate Editor Abi Slone Editor Dick Snyder/dick@citybites.ca Wine Editor Craig John Szabo Art Director Sinclair/craigdesign@hurontel.on.ca Director ofEditor VinousSigne Affairs Zoltan Szabo Associate Langford Wine Editor John Szabo Contributors Stephen Beaumont, Deacon Dr. Fresh, Director of Vinous Affairs Zoltan Szabo Konrad Ejbich, Kait Fowlie, Marc Green, Ivy Knight, Heather Li, Alan Kate More, Abi Slone, Tamara Greg Stieber, Zoltan Contributors Stephen Beaumont, Clow, SaraSzabo, d’Amato, Stephen Tempkin Tracey Edelist, Konrad Ejbich, Maia Filar, Arlene Hazzan Green, Marc Green, Tracy Howard, Heather Li, Joy McCarthy, Mary Luz Photography Berman, Philippa Mejia, StephenLaura Temkin, Julie C. TrubkinC. Croft,
PHOTO: JEFF COULSON photo: Laura Berman/greenfusephotos.com
Megan Richards, Dick Snyder Photography Jeff Coulson, Signe Langford, Julie C. Trubkin Publisher Paul Paul Alsop/paulalsop@idmg.ca Alsop/paulalsop@idmg.ca Publisher Sr. Account Account Manager Manager Wendy Wendy Lyall Lyall Gardner/wendy@citybites.ca Gardner/wendy@citybites.ca Sr. Account Manager Manager Alexander Alexander McCarthy/alecmccarthy@live.ca McCarthy/alecmccarthy@live.ca Account
Subscriptions are $25 per year.
Email info@citybites.ca info@citybites.ca or or visit visit www.citybites.ca www.citybites.ca Email Advertising Inquiries Inquiries sales@citybites.ca sales@citybites.ca Advertising City Bites Bites Media Media Inc., Inc., 24 24 Dalhousie Dalhousie St. St. Suite Suite 200, 200, City Toronto, ON, ON, M5B M5B 2A5, 2A5, 647-827-1705. 647-827-1705. City City Bites Bites is is published published Toronto, six times times a a year year by by City City Bites Bites Media Media Inc., Inc., a a division division of of IDMG IDMG Inc. Inc. six IDMG Management Management IDMG Paul Alsop, Alsop, Paul Donald G. G. House House Donald IDMG Partner Partner IDMG Dick Snyder Snyder Dick
Brad Long tends his veg at Evergreen Brick Works.
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Features > The Best of Summer 20 Locavore
Brad Long brings it home at Evergreen Brick Works.
Jldd\i )'(( Mfcld\ .# @jjl\ )
21
Lakeside Four great spots for fine waterfront dining.
22 Nature
The joys of take-out in the park.
23 Cold Comforts Ice cream, ice pops, ice coffee. =\Xkli\j 55 Jl^Xi Xe[ Jg`Z\ 24 Spice Grilling Throw a flatbread your BBQ. 16 World Exotic avourson abound at Toronto’s top spice shops. 25 French Connection An interview with Daniel Boulud. 17 Sweet Young Things Meet Toronto’s rising pastry chefs. 27 Stuff Buffalo’s not the mammal. Thesalt city! 18 The Bounty coolest, No, funkiest, most beautiful and pepper vessels. 20
The Joy of Salt Artisanal salt invades Toronto.
21
Chicken Wings Rating Toronto’s top wing joints (and some not-so-top). Regular Bites 14 Flavours Deacon Dr. Fresh
5
Starters Soma takes flight.
6 5 7
Crumbs Restaurant news. Starters A new ďŹ sh shop; Susur News More gourmet hits. abroad; Le Creuset goes green.
I\^lcXi 9`k\j 68
Stuff Gadgets and new otherspots, things. Crumbs Hot spots, dead spots. 9 The Gourmudgeon He’s fresh fromOpened France, with something to say 7 Just Eating out tonight? Try one of these two new restaurants. 10 Learnings Blind tasting rare 8 Champagnes. The Gourmudgeon For the love of schnitzel. 11 Head to Head Zoltan Szabo on syrah/shiraz andof viognier. 9 Pantry A vision ginger, in ales and beers. 12 Urban Farmer Plan for succession‌ and keep on eating! 10 Foreign Correspondence Big sandwiches from three countries.
11
The Urban Farmer Tricking nature into giving you salad.
on rosĂŠ.
17 Fresh Travel Sugaring Hockley off Valley Resort 12 with our
delivers asweet gourmet pampering. favourite viscous liquid.
18 Books TouringRead Get ’em to Windsor 13 and eat!Essex Pelee Island‌ now!
14 Reality Check Wondering where 30 The Cocktail Files the goodness went.Jen Agg
talks cocktail.
talks Mosel.
Yeah, right!, says Konrad Ejbich.
Beaumont, is for wheat beer.
celebrates El Bulli’s Ferran Adrià . One Last Bite A spoonful of sugar.
15 In store Superior olive oil and 31 easy-make Szaboon WIne John Szabo risotto. 23 Libations Stephen Beaumont his porter picks. 32 proff The ers Ej Looser liquor laws?
24 The Ej Where’s the “O�, wonders Ejbich, in LCBO. 33 Konrad Libations Summer, says Stephen 25 Szabo on Wine John Szabo gets his sweet 34 One Last on. Bite Documentary 26
Cover: Laura Berman/greenfusephotos.com Summer 2011 Jldd\i )'((
3 3
Lead Summer Partner
August Augu ust 12-14
Fortune Cooking Food Festival A pan panorama no of Pan-Asian cuisine! Featurinng Featuring Iron Chef competitor, Chef Sa Sasi asi Meechai-Lim. Plus A Taste of Teppanyaki, a perfor performance rm by Chai Found Music, and more!
September Sept te 2-5
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LOVE FOOD
Jamie Kennedy
Then you’ll love these FREE festivals!
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Official Suppliers
the starters The Blackbird has landed Teaming up with Soma to bring great baking to King West It must have been the delicious aromas wafting along King Street West that brought droves of walkins to the freshly opened Soma chocolate emporium. Even with a complete absence of signage and nary an advanced blog post or Tweet, people knew what to do. And when Blackbird baker Simon Blackwell co-owner David Castellan flipped with a fresh pizza bianca the sign in the window, the noonhour crush began. The King West Soma is the first expansion of the Distillery-based operation that has called the east end home for seven years. Castellan and wife/business partner Cynthia Leung have been looking for just the right spot for a couple of years. The new shop puts the baking artistry of Simon Blackwell on centre stage. He’ll be putting out daily variations of pizza bianca, both savoury and sweet, along with other baked experimentations from a luxuriously kitted-out kitchen in the back. Visitors can watch the action, as the entire room is walled in glass. Blackbird is the name of the baking operation, a partnership of Blackwell, Castellan and Leung. Soma Chocolate All of the baking and truffle-making operations are moving to the King West new King West location to take advantage of the space, which used to 443 King St. W. be a furniture showroom. 416-599-7662 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily; The sleek stone-and11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sat.; wood shop is generously closed Sun. lit from massive streetfacing windows, which afford good peoplewatching from the comfortable bar area. Rustic accents — wooden benches and a funky chandelier — are courtesy of design team the Brothers Dressler. Open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m., the idea is to cater to the daily business and residential citizens, and pack up tight before the evening partiers descend.
photo: Dick Snyder
Feast of Fields $10 off for CityBites readers! We’re proud to sponsor the 2011 Feast of Fields, happening Sunday, Sept. 11, at the Cold Creek Conservation Park. The event promotes organics, sustainable living and education for school children. Tickets are $90 with the code “citybites.” Enter it online at feastofields.org or phone 905-859-3609.
The CityBites Team Kate More Kate More is one fun girl to have a glass of great wine or five with. Kate is a lead coordinator for iYellow Wine Club, and is known for throwing the hottest wine parties in the city. Kate is also a freelance PR consultant and brand ambassador for all things food and drink. She is currently studying to become an ISG Sommelier and is founder of the acclaimed Local_is_the_New-Black.com. She wrote about picnicking on p. 22. Contact: kate@iyellowwinegroup.com Laura Berman Laura Berman can often be found behind the lens at local food events, photographing farms, gardens, markets and kitchens. A long-time fan of the Brick Works, she looks forward to partaking of meals at Belong Café where she will raise a glass along with her camera. Her shot of Chef Brad Long appears on the cover. Visit greenfusephotos.com Heather Li Blessed with a superheroquick metabolism and ironcast stomach, Heather regularly indulges in buttery breads, fatty meats and creamy gelati, and will try almost anything once — including India’s street food, even with abundant flies and no running water in sight. If not stuffing her face or running off to another city, she works as a journalist and editor in Toronto. Heather reports on the culinary delights of Hockley Valley Resort on p. 17.
Correction The Wachau is an Austrian winemaking region. Due to an editing error, incorrect information appeared in the previous issue of CityBites.
Get in touch!
Send emails to info@citybites.ca or snail mail to CityBites, 24 Dalhousie St., Toronto, ON, M5B 2A5. Letters may be edited for space and accuracy. Summer 2011
5
crumbs
By Kait Fowlie
... The classic-combo and ice-cream-float dealer Oh Boy Burger (571 Queen W.) closed its doors in February, but is set to turn into
... Bar Volo (587 Yonge St., 416-928-0008, barvolo.com) launched its House Ales Nano Brewery project last month, showcasing
Paul Boehmer’s new gastropub with European flavours and a more
creations of head brewer Ralph Morana’s, as well as other Canadian
upscale brasserie feel — don’t worry, there will be burgers
breweries. The new project offers a variety of cask conditioned ales
... m:brgr also closed its doors earlier this spring after a short stint on King West, but its original Montreal location survives
including collaborations with breweries such as Amsterdam and Flying Monkey and a series of “hip hop ales” named after rap artists
... The Beer Boutique (120 Lynn-Williams St.,
Toronto’s food news ... The Drake Hotel (1150 Queen St. W., 416-531-5042, thedrakehotel.ca)
416-534-8084, thebeerstore.ca) opened in June in Liberty Village, and caters to beer enthusiasts by selling singles and offering in-house samples
... The Made in Creemore Locavore Lunch takes over the town of
has launched a unique new dining series emulating a dining roadshow
Creemore on Sunday Aug. 28, matching top Ontario chefs with local
experience. Chef Anthony Rose whisks diners away on a culinary road
chefs, suppliers and growers. Email thefolks@creemoresprings.com
trip that includes rotating themes, menus and decor. Summer school dining hall will be the theme for the rest of the summer (including juice box cocktails); Chinatown is the second stop in September; and the third stop is TBA
... El Cafecito Café (3 Westmoreland Ave.) opens
in Bloorcourt, joining Saving Gigi (859 Bloor St. W., 416-531-1538) as one of the neighbourhood’s few laid back espresso bars among the Portuguese bakeries. A transformed office building gives way to a creative interior serving up affordable espresso drinks and baked goods
... Bakerbots Baking (205 Delaware Ave., at Bloor, 416-901-3500,
bakerbotsbaking.com) finally lifts its blinds and reveals artistic designer cakes and other treats just in time for summer. OCAD/French Institute NYC graduate Roseanne Pezzelli also pairs her own cookies with Ed’s Real Scoop ice cream, effectively driving the neighbourhood crazy
... La Societe (131 Bloor St.
for details on this five-course feast
... FAB restaurateurs, responsible
for the Foggy Dew (803 King St.), Brazen Head (165 East Liberty St.), and Pour House (182 Dupont St.) are working on a new joint called Bar Vespa next to Brazen Head in Liberty Village later this summer
... The Black Hoof’s (923 Dundas St. W., 416-551-8854,
theblackhoof.com) new venture, Black Hoof and Company, originally set to open this spring, is delayed to until next spring. To keep carnivore fans sated in the meantime, owners Jen Agg and Grant van Gameren started a new dining series called Hoof House that will showcase the talents of some of their favourite chefs
... New ice
cream shop Mr. Cream (61 Kensington Ave.) opens in the market and offers a small selection of quality ice cream, including a couple vegan options
... The Little Dog (566 College St., 416-960-2455) opens up
right next door to its sweeter sister The Big Chill in her original digs,
W., 416-551-9929, lasociete.
serving take-out steamed hot dogs, fries, and poutine
... Shisha and
ca), Charles Khabouth
falafel joint Beirut Palace (1006 Bloor St.) gets even lonelier as it
and Danny Soberano’s
closes for renovation, but appears entirely gutted
... Hardy’s
mamoth new bistro in
(992 St. Clair W., 416-836-4333) restaurant is set to open in July.
Yorkville, has opened above
Toronto-bred and Italian-trained John Hardy whips up Southern
Sephora, offering upscale
barbeque inspired dishes with homemade sausages and sauces
... Following suit with the barbeque invasion this summer, Buster
Parisian-inspired eats and a picturesque setting complete
Rhino’s Southern BBQ (7-2001 Thickson Rd. S., Whitby, 905-436-
La Societe
with a stained glass ceiling
... There will be a new Sadies Juice Bar (256 Augusta Ave.,
6986, busterrhinos.com) is scouting for real estate downtown and hopes to open before the end of the year
... Chef Tawfik Shehata
416-777 2343) opening this summer in the market, right next to
and the rest of the crew from The Ballroom (145 John St., 416-597-
Hot Beans, serving smoothies and vegan snacks. Little Italy favourite
2695, theballroom.com) have started up The Bowery (55 Colborne
Dolce Gelato (414 Danforth Ave., 416-546 2148, dolcegelato.net) joins Leonidas Chocolate (484 Danforth Ave., 416-462-0008) on
St., 416-901-2332, thebowery.ca), with a specialty in charcoal grilling seasonal, local food. And a little punk on the side.
the Danforth as the only gelato dealers in Greektown
CityBites_Spring2011_1:CityBites
4/15/11
2:42 PM
Kait Fowley is a Toronto food writer
Page 1
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6
CityBites
News
A few great things BBQ Helpers David Marcus is on a bit of mission — he creates low-sodium BBQ “enhancers” that are easy to use and packed with flavour. They taste great, are fun to experiment with, and add some zip to just about any grilled food. You can’t miss them in the stores, either, with their psychedelic labels and straight-up names like David’s Special Steak Rub and David’s Fierce Marinade. Be sure to grab a card with some very handy tips and hints — look for them on display at The Healthy Butcher, Pusateri’s, Nortown Foods, Bruno’s and other smart shops. Or just email David at dmarcus@rogers.com.
This Summer’s Cocktail Run, don’t walk, to The Black Hoof to enjoy this mind-bendingly delicious concoction from our newest columnist, Jen Agg (see The Cocktail Files, p. 30). You could make it yourself, but instead, just drop $11 on the bar. Then say: “Thanks for the amazing Kentucky vs. Morocco. I had no idea currant-infused bourbon with lime, mint, Moroccan syrup and crushed ice could taste so divine.”
Patio Pleasures
Joie Farm Rosé We love rosé wines at CityBites. In fact, read all about Deacon Dr. Fresh’s obsession on p. 14. But we owe a special call-out to the fantastic rosé from B.C.’s Joie Farm (and all their wines, really). You can’t buy it here, but you can have a taste at the new Joey’s Eaton Center, which just opened. Bright salmonpink, alive with vibrant cherry and red licorice, smooth and pure with just a little acid tang — we could go on. Special note: Joie’s Noble Blend can be had by the glass at Crush on King West.
The Fermob line of eco-aware French-made patio furniture use ecologically sensitive paints applied in a zero-waste installation. The paint is UV-resistant, ensuring the colours never fade. Check out the line at Evergreen Garden Market, Evergreen Brick Works, 550 Bayview Ave., 416-596-0404.
Summer 2011
7
stuff
By Abi Slone
Cut to the Chase
If you trust a company with longevity, then Japanese Moritaka Cutlery, established in 1293, is about as reputable as they come. The blade of this Santoku knife is made from Aogami #2 Blue Steel, one of the best carbon steels available. The edge is a 50/50 double-edge, which means it’s easier to keep sharp with the usual tools (sharpening stone, sharpening steel, etc.). Chop chop! $105.99 at The Healthy Butcher, 565 Queen St. West, 416-ORGANIC, thehealthybutcher.com
Get Crackin’
In 1974 some very smart people decided to start Big Green Egg. Seemingly Seuss inspired, the kamado-style outdoor cooker uses the principles of cooking in traditional clay and takes advantage of modern technology, keeping the Egg durable and safe from the elements. $700 (approx.) at The Healthy Butcher (see above) and select Home Hardware stores across Toronto; biggreenegg.ca
Chill Out
The Bodum Bean Set Ice Coffee Maker uses the same principles as their classic French press — place coffee grounds in the glass canister and fill with water. The twist? Use cold water instead of hot and store it in the fridge overnight. In the morning, just plunge. Comes with two lids, the traditional plunger and a flat-topped lid for easy storage. $40 at Bergo Designs, 55 Mill St. Building 47A, 416-861-1821, bergodesigns.ca
Cheers to Canada
Here it is: Canada Day beer, specially brewed by Scottish brewery Innis & Gunn to mark the birth of this great country. “Canada is the largest export market for Innis & Gunn beer worldwide, and we are constantly over-whelmed by the feedback from our Canadian beer-drinking fans,” said owner and brewer Dougal Sharp. Raise a glass, if not for your taste buds, then for your country. $4.95 at select LCBO stores, lcbo.com
Pizza Party
Having trouble getting that pizza crust just right? You need the Charcoal Companion PizzaQue Pizza Stone Grill. For use right on the barbecue grill, it gives your pizza brick-oven flavour and feel. The built-in thermometer helps you get a perfect pie, every time. $56.25 through amazon.ca
8
CityBites
the gourmudgeon
By Stephen Temkin
Email from Europe Flavours abroad remind me of flavours at home As I write this, I’m into the final week of a six-week vacation through Switzerland, Italy, Germany and mostly France. Arriving in Europe, this man’s fancies turn first to alcohol. In that regard, I feel as if I’ve been released from prison. My first quest: find some Vieille Prune, barrelaged eau-de-vie made from plums. When good, it is one of my favourite post-dinner digestifs. Early on in the trip, I bought a bottle in Zurich. I found it in the wine shop in Globus, a department store. The salesman saw me examining the label and asked if I would like to try it. He fetched an open bottle and poured me a generous sample, no charge. How horribly civilized. It was a depressing reminder of the mediocre, asinine and insulting situation we are forced to endure in Ontario regarding the sale of alcoholic beverages. Europeans think we’re a bunch of ignorant hicks for allowing such a system to persist. Perhaps they’re right.
saw several brands of raw milk butter on the shelf. This is verboten in Ontario. Fromagerie Bou, an excellent cheese shop in Montpellier, sells raw milk by the bottle as a matter of routine. In Ontario, raw milk is treated like poison. (We all remember the storm trooper raid on Michael Schmidt’s farm.) But all that we need to ensure this product’s safety is a proper licensing and regulation system. The Europeans already know how to do this, so how hard would it be? Speaking of Fromagerie Bou, this is Cheese at Fromagerie Bou, a little cheese shop that does it right. perfectly chambré and ready to eat. Almost every cheese is lait cru. Moreover, a cheese is not put out for sale unless it’s ripe and ready to eat. That’s what a superiority extends to other poultry such as cheese vendor is supposed to do. None of this duck, quail, pigeon and guinea fowl. Why “just leave it out for a few hours and it will be can’t we produce birds this way in Ontario? fine,” advice often given in Toronto that makes But enough complaining about home. me grimace. Cheese doesn’t work that way. Things aren’t all rosy in France: I didn’t exactly appreciate the woman at the table next to us at lunch sharing her duck confit with her little Papillon who sat in her lap and ate off her plate. One can go insane trying to find a decent espresso. And don’t even get Roasting and eating a “Label Rouge” Poulet me started about French beef. Jaune des Landes at our rented villa near Céret, Besides, I miss the Mi Quang at Canh Buom I was once again reminded of the mushy Nha Trang on College Street, perhaps my first tastelessness of chicken back home. Sure, stop when I get home. CB France now has lots of the same mediocre, wet, over-processed, plastic-wrapped chicken When not eating, drinking, that we call normal. But it is never hard to or writing about eating and find a quality poulet fermier whose flavour drinking, Stephen TEMKIN and texture is strikingly superior to even the makes fedoras. very best chickens produced in Ontario. This stemkin@rogers.com
photo: Stephen Temkin
At Fromagerie Bou, a cheese is not put out for sale unless it is ripe and ready to eat. There are plenty of other worthy bottles that will never appear in Ontario simply because the LCBO is so universally despised. I’ve met many winemakers over the years, and a couple more on this trip, who are exasperated with the pointlessly difficult and humiliating process of trying to sell their wines in Ontario. Many give up or simply don’t bother. Of course, booze is not the only thing we are denied. At a supermarket in Switzerland, I
Summer 2011
9
Learnings
By Doug Wallace
Break Out the Bubbly A blind tasting of top Champagnes In the grand scheme of analogies, I’m one of those people whose glass is always half full. And quite often, it’s half full of Champagne. I like to think I can will good things to happen to me. Surely this was why I was seated in the Grand Ballroom of the Ritz-Carlton Grand Cayman in front of six of the best glasses of Champagne I’m ever likely to have all at once. Part of the annual Cayman Cookout, a three-day food and wine festival hosted by Chef Eric Ripert of New York’s Le Bernardin, this blind “Royals of Champagne” tasting focused on the tête de cuvée, the best wines these Champagne houses make. Sommelier Ray Isle, executive wine editor at Food & Wine magazine, began the session pronouncing that “Champagne cures everything, especially hangovers,” a comment meant to soothe more than a few sore heads from a beach barbecue the night before. “Champagne is underrated as a food wine,”
corks in place, Champagne was known as the “wine of the devil,” because bottles would
he says. “In fact, it pairs extremely well with all sorts of food.” This is partly because Champagne has great acidity—a key balancing characteristic for the richness of food—and partly because the bubbles cleanse the palate with each sip.
explode in the cellars. 3. Salon Blanc de Blancs le Mesnil-Sur-Oger 1997 Impressions: Fierce acidity, powerful, complex and fresh underneath. Fact: This company started in 1905, the Champagne originally made
TASTING NOTES These wines range between $250 and $300, so the beer budget might have to be stretched a little. But you know how to prioritize, right?
just for friends, who then insisted the winemaker start selling it. Only 30 vintages since 1921. 4. Krug Grande Cuvée Impressions: Sweet apple, rich, high percentage
1. Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 1999
of pinot noir, less earthy or yeasty.
Impressions: Yeasty, red apple, earthy, soft, not acidic. Fact: The company was founded in 1811,
5. Veuve Clicquot la Grande Dame 1998
and released a dry Champagne in 1854. The
Impressions: Apricot, apple, yeasty, earthiness,
bottle art is based on a bottle from 1902 that
crisp, round and deep. The group favourite.
was found in an old cupboard. 6. Armand de Brignac “Ace of Spaces” Brut Gold 2. Dom Pérignon 2000
Impressions: Dense, tense, earthy with floral hits.
Impressions: Not very bubbly; pear, higher
Fact: “This one appeared in a Jay-Z video—always
acidity, citrus, floral, long finish, Fact: Until the
a good way of determining a good Champagne,”
cage was invented by Pérignon to keep the
Isle said with a laugh.
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CityBites
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LUSSO Restaurant & Bar 207 Queen’s Quay W
The Beach 2022 Queen St E
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Head to Head
By Zoltan Szabo
Syrah/Shiraz and Viognier REDS
On their own or blended, these grapes shine JUICY
2008 Creekside Estate Shiraz Niagara Peninsula | $15.95
WHITES
Juicy with plenty of savoury/spicy fruit flavours and soft chalky tannins. Earthy finish. LCBO
Fruity
2009 Creekside Estate Viognier Reserve Queenston Road Vineyard Niagara Peninsula | $29.95
Apricot and tropical fruits with vanilla and oak spice, mineral, and medium body Winery
SOFT
EARTHY
Black raspberry, beet and licorice root, warm spice. Softly textured, juicy acidity, long finish. Winery
With a splash of viognier! Blueberry, spicy bouquet with floral and earth nuances. Winery
FRESH
PERSISTENT
Bargain priced for BBQ or poolside. Fresh with a pleasant oily character. Winery
White-fleshed summer fruits, nectarines. Fresh acidity and persistent finish. Try with chorizoseafood paella. Winery
2008 Jackson-Triggs Syrah Delaine Vineyard Gold Series Niagara Peninsula | $39.95
2009 Peninsula Ridge Viognier Niagara Peninsula | $14.95
2008 Creekside Estate Syrah ‘Broken Press’ Queenston Road Vineyard Niagara Peninsula | $39.95
2008 Alvento Viognier ‘Vio’ Niagara Peninsula | $19.95
Summer 2011
11
the urban farmer
By Marc Green
Succession Success Learn how to plan your fall and winter gardens in the dog days of summer
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CityBites
In the fall, arm yourself with two types of row coverings. For September heat-waves, have some shade cloth handy. It is a very light, white cotton fabric for draping over your plants to protect them from direct sunlight and stunt their natural disposition to flower and seed. The other worthy row cover is a hoop tunnel, also known as a cloche. As the temperatures get colder in October you can extend your growing season by installing hoop tunnels (check out City Bites, February 2011, for more on cloches). These mini-greenhouses hold the heat of the day and protect plants from frosty nights. Remember to open up the hoop tunnels on very hot days. You don’t want to bake your plants! With your summer garden A mid-summer garden at various stages. Tatsoi has bolted (yellow flowers), a second succession of under control and your fall garden arugula seed is coming in and some blank spaces planned, looks like you just might await their second planting. be a farmer. Your planned second and third plantings (known in the biz as succession planning) are an integral part of a sustainable garden that helps you Remember to amend the soil before eat locally and well for many more months each planting with compost, manure, than you might have expected. CB worm castings or some other natural additive. The more successions you are able to plant, the more nutrient Marc Green is the owner of The Backyard depleted the soil becomes. Feed the Urban Farm Company. For more information soil so it can feed the plants! visit bufco.ca.
Get Dirty
photo: Marc Green
By mid-July, your vegetable garden will probably look something like this.... Tomato plants are strong with well-established fruit and some cherry tomatoes are already harvested with lots more to come. Peppers and eggplants are getting big and colourful. Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cukes and zukes— in fact all the heat lovers—are flourishing but not quite ready for prime time. On the other end of the spectrum are your salad greens, spinach, chard, kale, radishes and peas. They’ve either all been harvested or have bolted, thanks to the heat, and gone to seed. (If it was a good crop, let the seeds dry on the plant and save them to sow next year). If bolted, they are now probably a tangled mess of bitter leaves and long flowery stalk. If you harvested, there are earthy black gaps in your garden, like missing teeth in an otherwise beautiful smile. So what do you do now? Plan and plant your fall garden! In the height of the summer (July to midAugust) there aren’t many options when it comes to planting veggies. You can direct sow beets and carrots, and if you can find broccoli and cabbage seedlings, they too can be planted in the high heat and grow into the coming cold. When mid-August rolls around it’s time to plant new foods for the fall harvest. All the spring plants that loved those cool nights three months ago—leaf lettuces, spinach, tatsoi, radishes, kale, chard—should once again go in the ground. In three or four weeks the temperatures will have dropped some, which is just what these plants love.
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By Deacon Dr. Fresh
OK, guys, time to embrace a little colour Rejoice! it looks like we’re finally getting some decent weather, enabling us to hang out at the lake or pool, while bolstering our vitamin D supply. And it’s only natural that as the weather warms, and we spin through space and tilt closer to our nearest, and currently solar-flaring stellar neighbour, a man’s heart turns effortlessly from astronomy to beer. And indeed, why not? Ontario’s shelves are fully laden, with more varieties of bottled barley, yeast and hops, than you could drink in a lifetime, although some of my friends are making a fairly determined effort. Now, suppose — just suppose for a moment — that you were offered a hot-weather alcoholic beverage other than lager or ale. Would you drink it? Think carefully guys, before you answer, because I’m going to make a suggestion that will threaten your Y-chromosomes and terrify some of you. I’m talking about rosé. Yes, pink wine. It was my Irish drinking-instructor Billy Munnelly who got me into rosé. He and John Maxwell run the wonderfully successful Men in Pink at Maxwell’s Allen’s Restaurant, a rosé event par excellence, by invitation only. Think of it as the Bilderberg of rosé, minus Henry Kissinger. I learned that rosé is the ideal summer wine: It matches perfectly with turkey sandwiches and finger-food, and makes wonderfully refreshing spritzers, with an aroma redolent of sliced strawberries. Drink it chilled, with the right music — no, not Pink…
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Viva La Pink!
The CityBites-WineOnline Club special selection
DELIVERY! r
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FLAVOURS
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Dick’s Picks Every issue, CityBites editor Dick Snyder works with wineonline.ca to select some special wines to highlight for our readers. Get free delivery for these wines and the entire catalogue by entering the code “citybites” at checkout.
Surprising Summer Values! El Meson Rioja Rosado, Bodegas El Meson 2010 A great pink! Bright, fresh strawberries and cherries. An easy-to-drink blend of equal parts tempranillo and garnacha. Rioja tradition meets modern winemaking. Great with foods of all sorts, especially on a summer patio. Bottle: $14.45 | Case: $173.40 (12x750mL) Con Class Rueda, Sitios De Bodega 2010 Forthright and firm citrus flavours backed by herbal notes, delivering a long zesty finish. An al fresco wine par excellence! From the Rueda region of Spain, famous for the native verdejo varietal, which makes up 60 percent of this blend. Bottle: $15.95 | Case: $191.40 (12x750mL) Château de Caraguilhes AOC Corbières Rouge Cuvée Prestige 2007 Incredible value in a gold-medal-winning organic wine, blended from syrah, mourvedre, grenache and carignan and aged nine months in French oak. Deep, intense ruby red and blackberry aromas and flavours. Elegant, layered, rich, with hints of vanilla. Drink now, or lay down for a couple years
Tunes to Match Retro > Seals and Crofts > Summer Breeze (played endlessly) Relaxing > Jack de Johnette > Peace Time Rustic > Mumford and Sons > Sigh No More Remarkable > Porcupine > Tree The Incident
Bottle: $22.95 | Case: $275.40 (12x750mL) Domaine Joseph Drouhin 2009 Laforet Bourgogne Chardonnay For classic, well-made white Burgundy, you can’t beat this price. Fresh, delicious chardonnay in a crisp style.
The Deacon Compels You 2010 Fita Preta Vinhos Sexy Rose Portugal | $15.95 The Deacon’s Pick of the bunch! Layers
of strawberry with tart cherry on top. Great alone or with barbecued chicken or mild sausages. Vintages #117077
Perfect picnic wine! Bottle: 24.95 | Case: $299.40 (12x750mL) Yorkville Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Rennie Vineyard (Organic) Critically acclaimed as one of California’s top organic wineries, this offers tremendous value in a sensual package of raspberries, cherries, plums and dark chocolate. Silky,
2010 Bieler Pere & Fils Sabine Rosé France | $12.95 Lean, pale and fresh. Great with roast
chicken with herbs. Vintages #071423
but with some tannins if you want to hold for a short while. Bottle: $26.95 | Case: $323.40 (12x750mL)
2010 Planeta Rose Sicily Italy | $16.95 Must buy! Beautiful colour, fruity, and perfect
with scallops or shrimp. Vintages #111856 Colio Girls Night Out Rose Chardonnay Merlot VQA Ontario | $12.95 Good local example. Dry flowery and light.
Turkey sandwiches work well. LCBO #089862
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CityBites
Free delivery almost anywhere in Ontario with code “citybites” at checkout. HST included. Bottle deposit extra.
Wines must be ordered in case lots (6 or 12, as available) unless otherwise noted.
books
Read ’em and eat America Walks into a Bar
In My Mother’s Kitchen
Whole Foods to Thrive
By Christine Sismondo
By Trish Magwood
By Brendan Brazier
Ever wanted to know why bars exist? Why we as a society allow them despite their “den of iniquity” reputation? America Walks into a Bar has the answers. A writer and lecturer at York University, Christine Sismondo covers ground from ye olde England’s pub culture to the new world where everything from organized crime to burgeoning communities found their homes in beer halls and speakeasies. An engaging read, this book reveals how the seemingly sketchy elements of everyday life continue to fight to bring vibrancy, connectedness and vital culture to everyone, even those who may despise their existence. (Oxford University Press, $24.95)
There are few things more satisfying to a home-cook than a cookbook full of memories, even if they are someone elses. Trish Magwood’s In My Mother’s Kitchen brings her family’s cooking tricks, secrets and memories in ways that are easy to share. Bright and brilliant images bring traditional and contemporary recipes to life and family recipes, handed down from grandmother to mother to daughter, remind the reader/home-cook of the joy in simplicity. The recipes are easy to find, and even easier to make with basic kitchen ingredients for a summer full of family, fun and feast. (HarperCollins Canada, $39.99)
Vancouver’s Brendan Brazier has managed to break through the hippy barrier that protected the east coast urbanite. Now with his second book, Whole Foods to Thrive, there’s no denying the unbelievable power of the Earth’s bounty. Along with over 200 recipes that teach the reader how to use foods like quinoa and nori with no wheat, gluten, soy or dairy, Brazier explores and unpacks all the ways that whole foods are not only a benefit to the consumer, but to the Earth. The idea is that by eating the right foods, our bodies will be better able to fight the things that ail us like sleeplessness, stress and decline in physical strength. (Penguin Canada, $28)
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Tradition Repurposed It takes skill, experience and passion to repurpose tradition. Venturing beyond the artful interplay of worldly flavours, Chef Patrick Lin applies his unique mastery of established Eastern and Western culinary techniques to redefine expectations in tastes and textures. The result is food that is at once classically refined and purposefully inventive. Only at Senses.
Questioning the boundaries of culinary art. 328 wellington st. w toronto ontario 416.935.0400 www.senses.ca
CRUSH_citybites_summ11fl.indd 1
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Travel
By Heather Li
A Gourmet Resort The full farm-to-table experience is just an hour away We drove to Hockley Valley Resort on a wet, cool spring day. Grey mist hung above the rolling green hills alongside the road that took us there. Normally the resort moniker can be a stretch, but not at Hockley Valley. “I feel like I’m in the Caribbean,” said one guest, despite the weather. Nancy and Mario Adamo purchased the 28-room hotel in 1985 and over the years built the place to include deluxe suites, a ballroom, an 18-hole golf course, expanded ski facilities and a full-service European-style spa. Then two years ago their son John Paul Adamo, a former chef, took over as president and general manager. He is now elevating Hockley Valley to a food-lover’s dream getaway, only an hour north of Toronto. On the main floor, one glass room showcases Ontario and Italian wines, and another displays cured meats. Meanwhile, steps away from the entrance lies the vegetable and fruit garden that inspires the daily menus. This year, Adamo introduced the Culinary Garden Series where guests harvest their own produce with the chefs, who then design a one-of-a-kind meal. You’ll dine outside under a pitched tent next to the garden, a farm-totable al fresco experience imagined by Adamo’s cooking apprenticeships overseas. “This is how they eat in Italy,” he says. “It only seemed natural to bring it here.” If getting your hands dirty doesn’t appeal, the resort also has three restaurants. Babbo, the bar that opens onto the stone deck patio and pool, focuses on wine, with a menu dependent on the weekly harvest. You could be eating such seasonal fare as risotto and
asparagus with a julienne of apples, and local GiGi farms lamb chops with a caponata of vegetables. If you want to talk with the pros about what you’re eating, reserve a place at Restaurant 85’s 16-seat U-shaped table. In the centre, chefs prepare tapas-style snacks with ingredients from the garden while engaging in food-focused conversations. The third restaurant, Tavola, takes you right out of the frying pan into the fire. A party of six can eat in the kitchen — or as many as 12 in the adjoining dining room. It’s the best show in the house. You can chat with executive chef Rabii Jaouhari and restaurant chef Daniel Mezzolo about Hockley Valley’s organic wild boar pancetta and how fresh mozzarella from Vaughan, Ont., stacks up to Italy’s. All the while, your Taste of Faith tasting menu is being prepared. Wine pairings are extra, and range from
boutique local labels such as Tawse Winery’s first biodynamic-certified 2010 Quarry Road Gewurtztraminer to exotic Italian gems. Dessert are house-made, and might include pistachio crème brulee and a raspberry, apricot and orange dark chocolate truffle. Before you retire, remember to write your thank-you on the kitchen’s white walls — so covered in Magic marker now that people have started scribbling praises on the ceiling. Though Adamo’s parents tried to dissuade him from the business since he was young, his passion for hospitality trumped the long hours and constant grind. Hockley Valley Resort “I love what I do, and 793522 Mono 3rd Line, I want to support local R. R. #1, Orangeville, Ont. 416-363-5490 food and farms as hockley.com much as we possibly can,” he says. This is good news for guests, who get to reap the delicious rewards. CB
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TOURING
By Rebecca LeHeup
Windsor Essex Pelee Island Gourmet attractions in ‘Canada’s south’ The locals refer to their beloved Windsor Essex Pelee Island region as “Canada’s south” — which makes it sound farther away than it really is. Curious culinary tourists should consider this a region to discover because its just four hours west of Toronto by car, or an hour by Porter Airlines from Toronto’s Billy Bishop Airport, to downtown Windsor. Visitors will broaden their understanding of Ontario’s historic relationship with our neighbour to the south while enjoying local culinary delights. Here are some highlights to help plan a trip.
2. A visit to Canadian Club Brand Centre (canadianclubwhisky.com) demonstrates the complexities of early U.S.-Canada relations, with stories of Hiram Walker, the establishment of Canadian Club in Windsor, and the development of Walkerville. A guided tour and a tutored whisky tasting is just $5. Check ahead for operating hours.
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There’s always time for a break on a Wine Trail Ride.
3. Rino’s Kitchen, located in The House on Elliot Street in downtown Windsor, offers up a daily menu showcasing seasonal ingredients with home-style flare. Motorburger’s eclectic menu and funky space liven up Erie Street. The SMART Veg-Engine burger is one of the best veggie burgers I’ve ever eaten. 4. A trip out to Essex County and Kingsville rewards the culinary adventurer with 13 wineries and Point Pelee National Park. Lunch at Jack’s Gastropub (jacksdining. com) is delightful, with a lovely menu of Ontario-sourced meats, fish and plenty of vegetables from local farms. The pub also hosts Inn 31, with three recently refurbished and artistically decorated rooms.
5. The perfect way to explore the wineries of the region is to join the Wine Trail Ride hosted by the good folks at Windsor Eats. The highlight of our particular ride was the final stop, Pelee Island Winery, where they served samples of the wine and a great meal by caterers County Connect. Visit winetrailride.ca to find out more about scheduled excursions. You can also create your own. 6. No trip to the region would be complete without visiting Point Pelee National Park (parkscanada.gc.ca). Sure it’s the second smallest National Park, but good things come in small packages! Pack a picnic of local treasures and spend the day at the southern most tip of Canada.
photo: Rebecca LeHeup
1. We started our Windsor exploration with an Art Cart Tour along the waterfront of the Detroit River, which is rich in history from the prohibition era. Our guide Jay Potts spun tales of the rum-running days and the activities that took place on the Ambassador Bridge and the underground tunnels. It’s still a busy place—the busiest international crossing in the world, in fact— Visit ontarioculinary.com with 30 percent to read the 2011 Ontario of U.S.-Canada Culinary Adventure Guide and get more tips and commerce travelling information on eating the bridge. and travelling in Ontario.
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the
Best of Summer Eat well and enjoy the warm weather with our pick of some great local food things to do, eat and drink. Have fun and play safe!
Locavore
By Heather Li
Eat Well, Live Well Good food crusader Brad Long.
When Evergreen Brick Works put the word out that it was looking for restaurant and catering proposals for its property, the partnership made perfect sense to Brad Long. Both share an eco-conscious philosophy and a desire to educate the public. And so, this summer the chef will be showcasing farm-to-table produce and stock at his new Brick Works restaurant, Café Belong. As the former chef for Maple Leaf Sports & Entertainment, Long spent a decade feeding fans at Air Canada Centre and the BMO Field, as well as creating team meals for the Toronto Raptors and Maple Leafs. He knows exactly how to balance a full dining room and deliver the right menus for special events. What’s more is Long understood the importance of great ingredients years before local, organic and sustainable became the hottest buzzwords among foodies. A few years ago, he opened the locavore restaurant Veritas on King Street West, a place where his food philosophy comes through in a gentle, non-preachy manner. For more than 20 years, Long communicated his understanding of food not just by telling people and management, but more importantly, by showing them. “The best thing I can do
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to effect change in this industry is making good, tasty food that gets people asking questions rather than trying to fight with them,” he says. He laments the choices many people make — spending hundreds of dollars on designer jeans and Apple electronics, then scrounging up the cheapest fast food available. “Eating good food makes you feel a whole lot better here and now. If you’ve ever felt really tired after eating a meal, that’s not an indicator of good food. That’s an indicator that you overate — which is your fault — or the food is really bad. You should never ever feel sleepy after eating food.” It may cost a bit more to eat well, but Long believes it’s more than worth it. “Food affects how you think, look, feel and how long you live,” he says. “You want the cheap shit? Or you want the good stuff? I want to feel good after eating. I want to feel energized.” Café Belong is open seven days a week, all year, with meals and snacks throughout the day (from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.). Visit belongcatering.ca. To find out how to get there, visit ebw.evergreen.ca.
photo: Laura Berman
Brad Long brings his fresh-food philosophy to the Brick Works
Lakeside
By Dick Snyder
On the Waterfront Have a bite on the lake No fewer than four impressive lakeside establishments are now serving up great food and drink on the lake — and with a local-food philosophy and a concern for eco-practices to boot.
Il Fornello and Lusso Two restaurants, two patios, both on the water at Queen’s Quay Terminal — and strangely enough, somewhat of a best-kept secret among locavores. Il Fornello has played a leading role in the whole local-sustainable movement for years, way before it was hip. All the way back to 1986, in fact. The cheeses on their stone-oven baked thin-crust pizzas are all Ontario versions of Italian classics. Everything is fresh-made, and there are plenty of gluten-free options. The scene is idyllic, but with just enough bustle — and a great view of all the harbour and island action. Queen’s Quay Terminal at York St., 416-861-1028, ilfornello.com
Against the Grain Urban Tavern The newcomer, in business a month. AGT is the latest venture from the FAB group, who own pubs Foggy Dew and Brazen Head, among others. This is a different beast, a big yet comfortable inside/outside restaurant that seats 170 on a semi-covered waterside patio. It’s in the Corus Entertainment Building, and caters to a lunch rush of entertainmentminded movers and shakers. But with food service late into the night, and a strong and passionate local-food commitment via chef/advocate Sera Antheunis (beerbistro, Cowbell) the evening crowd tends to local condo-dwellers and curious foodies. 25 Dockside Dr., Corus Quay, 647-344-1562, atgurbantavern.ca
Spencer’s at the Waterfront Spencer’s opened in June 2006, and its reputation has grown steadily, thanks in part to the efforts of British-born chef Chris Haworth, a fixture at local-foodie events and a booster of all the right things (food-wise, anyway). Spencer’s is owned by the Landmark Group, which runs the Ancaster Mill, Elora Mill and the newly opened Cambridge Mill. A hip menu runs from like burgers and pizzas to locally sourced wild boar (butchered whole), fried perch and a dish of scallop and pork belly. A secret no more, be sure to ring ahead — especially for Sunday’s Champagne brunch. 1340 Lakeshore Rd, Burlington, 905-633-7494,
Palais Royale A classic building that’s been given new life these last few years, thanks to the Pegasus Hospitality Group. A variety of weekly events beckon the public, but it’s Waterfront Wednesdays that draw the eatin’ crowd to the 4,000 squarefoot deck. For $40 a person, Chef Steffan Howard (Four Seasons, JOV Bistro, AGO) turns out a menu inspired by the waterfronts of the world. July 6 is Bali; July 13 is Miami; July 20 is closed; July 27 is St. Maarten. No reservations, doors at 6 p.m. 1601 Lake Shore Blvd. W., 416-533-3553,
spencersatthewaterfront.com
palaisroyale.ca
Summer 2011
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Nature
By Kate More
Park It Mix it up and feast in the urban forest
Kick it in Trinity Bellwoods with a plethora of nearby goodies.
BICKFORD PARK 400 Grace St. at Harbord St.
BEST TIME OF DAY Morning EAT Nutella, banana and marshmallow mafra-bun paninis, $5.50 each at Linuxcaffe, 326 Harbord St., 416-534-2116. DRINK Americano, $2.50 each at Linuxcaffe, spiked with a 200 ml of Bailey’s Irish Cream, $9.95 at the LCBO. BEST FOR Watching dogs. The park is a quiet valley and a designated off-leash zone. TIP Sit in the grass on your morning paper and contemplate your day’s To-Do list, or how easy life would be if you were a dog.
St. James Park 65 Church St. at King St. E.
BEST TIME OF DAY Weekday lunch EAT Six-month aged Manchego Cheese, 100g, $4.99; jar of pickled peaches, $10.99; Proscuitto di Parma, 100g, $6.50; all from Scheffler’s Deli and Cheese, Stall 7, 416-364-2806. French baguette, $1.99 from Future Bakery, Stall 17/28, 416-366-7259. All shops at
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the St. Lawrence Market, 95 Front St. E., 416-392-7120. DRINK 2009 Flat Rock Pinot Noir, $19.95 at the LCBO, poured into a thermos. BEST FOR Escaping modernity. Set in view of both St. James Anglican Cathedral grounds and the Toronto Sculpture Garden, St. James Park is a traditional Victorian park, complete with a 19th century-style formal garden, wrought iron fences and a decorative water fountain. TIP Come alone and pop some classical music onto your pod. Deep breath, chew, sip, repeat.
Hanlan’s Point, Toronto Island Ferry Dock, 9 Queens Quay W.
BEST TIME OF DAY Weekend lunch EAT Pork and Chicken Gyro Combo with Greek fries and feta $11.25 from Alexandros Take-Out, 5 Queens Quay W., 416-367-0633. DRINK Sport bottle filled with orange juice and ice. And a flask filled with a 750 mL bottle of Ouzo 12, $19.95 at the LCBO, for spiking. BEST FOR Taking off your clothes. Or not. It’s optional. TIP Take your bike on the ferry. And a helmet. Thank you Ouzo.
Trinity Bellwoods Park Queen and Crawford
BEST TIME Weekend late afternoon
EAT New Brunswick sturgeon fish n’ chips, $12.99 from Chippy’s, 893 Queen St. W., 416-866-7474. Macarons, $2.10 each from Nadège, 780 Queen St. W., 416-368-2009. DRINK Large fresh-squeezed mint lemonade, $2.50 from White Squirrel Coffee Shop, 907 Queen St. W., 647428-4478. Empty Coke bottle filled with Appleton Estate Rum V/X, $7.75 for a 200 mL bottle at the LCBO. BEST FOR People watching. On the weekends this park becomes a social zoo. Picnicking here is the perfect way to onserve all the city’s urban species. TIP Do bring a posse, blanket, Frisbee and a guitar. Don’t bring a new date if you want to avoid introducing them to everyone you know.
High Park, Hillside Gardens 1873 Bloor St. W.
BEST TIME Sunset EAT Two-scoops of Very Vanilla ice cream in a cone $3.49, at Grenadier Café, 200 Parkside Dr., 416-769-9870. DRINK Chilled Cave Springs 2009 Riesling Indian Summer SLH, $24.95 from the LCBO, hidden in a paper bag. BEST FOR Taking in the gorgeous flowers and Hillside Gardens that stretch down to the lakefront. TIP Grab a park bench facing the lake and watch the sunset. Take turns sipping and watching for lurking park patrol.
photo: Megan Richards
Is that booze in your basket or are you just happy it’s summer? This season shake up your restaurant routine and hit the park. Check out our guide to the city’s top 5 picnic spots and a tip or two on how to eat and drink well.
cold comforts By Kate More
Gelato comes to Parkdale And with decidely Canadian attitude Boreal Gelato Co.’s Melanie Clancy gives us the scoop on her new venture. What is the story behind the name? I wanted a name that brings to mind the cool Canadian north. Why Parkdale? I have lived in this area for over 10 years and I’ve seen it transform into a hip spot with trendy restaurants, cafes and bars. I wanted to offer something different, something classically Canadian and not a passing trend. Boreal Gelato will be something real for everyone, from families to night owls
photo: (left) Megan Richards; (top right) Laura Berman; (bottom right) dick snyder
How did you learn to make your own gelato? Last year I went to New York to perfect my gelatomaking skills. But I am always experimenting to find new, crazy-good flavour combinations. What are some of the flavours you’re working on? Because I only use natural ingredients, you won’t see flavours like bubble gum and tiger tail. Gelato is an artisan product, made in small batches, but the options are endless. Pumpkins and spices in the fall, savory flavours in the winter and juicy refreshing ones for the spring and summer What’s this we hear about “guest scoopers?” The more I talked about the business the more my friends in the food and drink industry got really excited about it. Even a few big name chefs have said they Boreal Gelato Co., want to come out for a 1312 Queen St. W., borealgelato.ca night to scoop cones!
Gelato goes local at Melanie Clancy’s new shop.
By Ivy Knight
Ice Delights Ice pops for kids and adults alike Janet Dimond is in the popsicle business. Say what? “It was kind of a lark,” she says. “I started selling them at the Roncesvalles Area Yard Sale. I was joking about being an unemployed popsicle seller but people loved them.” Dimond’s worked as a server at the original Mildred Pierce, been a catering manager at Whole Foods and most recently, a retail food consultant. She’d been looking for ideas for her own food business, then she saw popsicles and shaved ices in travels through New York, Austin and Hawaii. Janet Dimond sells her ice pops And Augie’s Ice Pops is born. at the Brick Works. Her $3 ice pops are made of freshly squeezed and pureed fruits with chopped herbs and either honey, maple syrup or pure cane sugar. Named after her dog, Augie’s has been in business less than a month but business is booming. “The kids seem to like raspberry and the adults like the grapefruit, lime and ginger. That one is almost like a gin and tonic on a stick.” Dimond makes the pops in batches to grab the best of the season’s fruits and berries. “Now the strawberries are in season I’ll puree a flat of strawberries. I strain them, add the zest of several lemons along with a cup of lemon juice, chopped lemon thyme and lemon basil, and finish with honey to taste.” Available at Evergreen Brick Works on Saturdays. Or email janet@dimond.ca
By Sam James
Get Your Ice Coffee! Sam James tells us how My most straightforward ice-coffee recipe is one (1) part coffee, ground for a French press, to seven (7) parts cold water. You put it in a juice jug, and leave it to steep over 12 hours. Pour it out through a fine mesh, or just a paper coffee filter to remove the grinds/mud. You can pour it over ice and add a simple syrup, cream or condensed milk. I pour leftovers into ice cube trays to make ice for the next batch. That’ll get you pretty high, though, so be careful. Sam James Coffee Bar, 297 Harbord St. and 688a Bloor St. W., 647-341-2572, Sam James enjoys a cold one samjamescoffeebar.com at his Harbord Street location. Summer 2011
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grilling
By Tamara Stieber
Mediterranean Masterpiece Grilling the perfect flatbread It all started one summer night at the cottage when I was trying to impress my in-laws. The plan was to make a Mediterranean-inspired dinner and, as it turned out, the meal became one of my barbecue favourites. The highlight? Grilled flatbread. Apart from the ease of having the whole dinner cooked on the barbecue, flatbreads are delicious and super easy to make. And they are the perfect summer side. This version is seasoned with zatar, a traditional middle eastern herb blend most commonly made of ground dried thyme, oregano, marjoram, toasted sesame seeds, and salt. Serve with chicken or lamb kebabs, or as a complement to yogurt dip or hummus.
Grilled Lemon and Zatar Flatbread Ingredients
2 8 gram packages dried yeast 2 1/2 cups warm water 2 1/2 cups whole wheat flour 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 2 tsp kosher salt 2 tbsp zatar 1 1/2 tsp lemon zest 2 tbsp olive oil
Method
In a small mixing bowl, combine yeast, 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour and 1 cup water. Let stand 10 minutes or until foamy. Meanwhile, in a medium-sized bowl, combine whole-wheat flour with 1 cup all-purpose flour and salt. Add yeast mixture and remaining 1 cup water. Mix until smooth. Mix in remaining all-purpose flour a bit at a time (if using a stand mixer, switch to a dough
hook) until dough comes away from the sides of bowl. Add more flour if needed. Add 3 tablespoons of olive oil, mix and form dough into a ball. Transfer dough to large oiled bowl, turning dough until coated with oil. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let stand in warm place until double in size, about 1-2 hours. Preheat barbecue to medium-high. Divide dough into 8 equal portions. On a lightly floured surface roll out each dough ball and once flat, place on parchment-lined baking sheet to transfer. Rolled dough can TIP: be stacked in parchment Make sure the grill until ready to grill but it is fully heated before is best to roll right before placing the dough they go on the grill to on the grill to ensure prevent further rising. a crisp crust. Place flatbread directly on the perimeter of the grill where the heat is less intense. Grill for 5 minutes each side, flipping only once. Flatbreads should be well marked from the grill. Before serving, dress with zatar, lemon zest and olive oil or experiment with other herbs like tarragon, fennel and oregano. Serve immediately or wrap in foil and keep in warm oven. Serves 8
Tamara Stieber reads a lot of food blogs. She also has her own blog: ideacurators.com.
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A French Connection By John Lee
John Lee, owner of Chippy’s, chats up French-American chef Daniel Boulud
photo: Toronto General and Western Hospital Foundation
At Grand Cru in Toronto: John Lee, Daniel Boulud and Todd Halpern.
Before The Food Network put the term “celebrity chef” into the regular lexicon of foodies everywhere, Chef Daniel Boulud was a familiar figure in my beloved Wednesday food section of the New York Times. Whether announcing the launch of his bakery or the opening of yet another high-end French boite, Boulud was a person of interest in a scene with no shortage of interesting people. I first met Boulud by chance at his bangers-and-beer bistro called DBGB (yes, it is an homage to the late punk rock venue CBGB) in New York City’s Bowery neighbourhood. In town for a food exhibition, I had no intention of meeting the classically trained French chef, but there was the man himself working the room. Before I knew it, he was at the table. I hastily blurted out names of mutual acquaintances while a member of my party punctuated my barrage by spilling her glass of Champagne. Graciously, Boloud beckoned a server who removed the detritus and brought over another glass. Apparently it wasn’t the first time he’d had to deal with star struck fans.
My next encounter with Boulud thankfully came with two days notice and nary a drunken friend in sight. He came to Toronto for the Grand Cru, a charity dinner in support of the University Charity Network, and I had the opportunity to talk to him about everything from the forgotten art of classical French cooking to his ongoing quest for the perfect potato. Boulud comes from classical French cookery where complicated and delicate dishes with names like Bocuse, Troisgros and Escoffier are de rigeur. These days though, from the time his feet touch the ground in the morning he is on the phone to his burgeoning empire with little time left to roast, poach or steam. But that doesn’t mean he isn’t deeply involved with every detail of his operations. All menu items must have his final approval before seeing the light of day, or night, and he knows exactly how many covers (plates) each location has served the night before. His stamp of approval is on more than just the menu and his team have become well attuned to his frenetic, but perspicacious ways. Summer 2011
25
Most recently at the helm of the now-shuttered Lumière restaurant in Vancouver, the French-American chef seems tuned into our country’s culinary scene, fascinated with Quebec/ Quebecois chefs such as Martin Picard of Pied Au Cochon in Montreal. “They are not French. They are not Canadian. And they are not American,” Boulud says. “They even have their own version of the language!” And when it comes to food, they are adventurous and bring something to French flavours that is truly unique. Picard has become a cause celeb among both French and non-French chefs south of the border and he regularly sends care packages from La Belle Provence to New York. In fact, days before our interview, in an episode of Picard’s Food Network Canada TV show Wild Chef, he sent a box with his latest foie gras experiment and a bottle of Champagne to Boulud, as well as to Eric Ripert, chef at three-Michelin-star Le Bernardin. When Boulud cooks for his own amusement, he does so with a gluttonous aplomb akin to Picard’s culinary antics, and this is evident as he recounts the best chicken he has ever made. “I was with Todd [Halpern, of Halpern Wine Enterprises] and we decided to go to San Francisco for the day. I called Michael Mina and told him we were coming to cook with him. We took a pig bladder and... put in a chicken stuffed with truffles and foie gras. The thing looks like a big balloon once it’s placed in a pot of boiling water. It cooks slowly and all the juices are kept inside. It was amazing to make and, of course, to eat.”
With his own brigade of young cooks, Boulud still takes the time to revisit and share that youthful caprice with them at every opportunity. Whether it’s a technique for flavouring and employing aspic or building the perfect terrine, Boulud continues to draw upon his roots and sentimental spirit in his search for gastronomic delights... like his love affair (no exaggeration) with the humble potato. The chef has searched the world for all manner and variation
With his own brigade of young cooks, Bouloud ... shares that youthful caprice with them at every opportunity.
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CityBites
of this prehistoric orb. His favourite variety of late? The La Ratte. “It is a fingerling from France that is the best when roasted and has a delicate flesh,” Boulud says. “I was working on growing it with a farmer in Idaho but this guy that I was partners with was… ” He struggles to find the right word and after what seems like an eternity says, “A loser. That’s it, he was a loser, and the potatoes never got going.” Whatever the details that resulted in the demise of Boulud’s quest to grow this special spud, it’s clear that the disappointment is fresh and the memories bitter. But suffice it to say that a La Ratte potato à la Daniel (minus one Idahoian?!) will be appearing on tables at some point in the future. Perhaps a Canadian version? CB
Buffalo’s Bounty By Ivy Knight
Target Buffalo this summer — and feed your stomach as well as your style. (Get it? Target? The store!)
all photos: Phillipa Croft/phillipac.com
A Buffalo hockey fan.
Mention Buffalo to a Canadian and the only positive responses are about the pro sports teams, the Anchor Bar (home of the famous wing that is the bane of every Buffalonian’s existence, except the owners of the Anchor Bar presumably) and the Target. We love Target. But just try to mention the growing good food movement, the current crop of excellent restaurants, the fact that there are over 8,000 farms within an hour of the City of Good Neighbours and prepare to encounter a roll of the eyes, a frown, or a smirk. Christa Glennie-Seychew is trying to change all that, a food writer who came to Buffalo from Seattle and never left. If Buffalo’s food scene has a tireless booster, she’s it. GlennieSeychew is the editor at Buffalo Spree magazine, founder of Feed Your Soul, a company that promotes culinary tourism in western New York, and the host of Nickel City Chef, an Iron Chef-style cooking competition she runs each spring showcasing the culinary talent Buffalo can now boast. And she wants everyone to know what Buffalo has to offer. “In the last ten years, we’ve seen a remarkable change. Western New York chefs who have honed their skills in bigger cities, under the tutelage of top chefs, have realized that for very little money they can return home and open their own restaurants,” Glennie-Seychew says. “And in the last five years alone, we’ve had many chefs do just that. These chef owners are opening places where their ability to really express themselves on their menu is tantamount to being financially successful. This influx of young, trained talent has changed Buffalo’s dining scene in ways too innumerable to measure.” So here is your guide to the best food, drinks, desserts and hotels Buffalo has to offer, beyond the wing.
Table settting at Sample.
Laughing Bird shrimp cakes at Shango.
Brunch Start your day with brunch at Shango Bistro & Wine Bar (3260 Main St.), where chef Jim Guarino was the first in town to source local ingredients and serve sustainable seafood. Dig into a plate from the New Orleans-inspired menu: cornmealfried oysters and poached eggs from Painted Meadow Farms topped with Creole hollandaise or the Laughing Bird shrimp cakes with corn maque choux. Summer 2011
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Get More Buffalo!
For more photos from Ivy’s odyssey, visit goodfoodrev.com.
The bar at Old Pink.
Dessert at Sample.
The kitchen at Sweet_ness 7 Café.
Coffee & Sweets A few blocks away you’ll find Parkside Candy (3208 Main St.), a family-run candy shop that’s operated since 1929. The interior is straight out of a Shirley Temple movie with families enjoying glass dishes of ice cream under a sea-foam green domed ceiling decorated with gold leaf bunting and bows. The middle of the store features shelves bursting with chocolate-covered pretzels, solid milk chocolate rabbits, fudge and salt water taffy. Glass cases along a wall display truffles, clusters, patties, dixies and sponge toffees. In the neighbourhood of Elmwood Village, pay a visit to the funky Sweet_ness 7 Café (220 Grant St.). Here, fresh-faced hipsters foam lattes and serve cranberry scones to Buffalo’s coffee klatch culture. Amid the laptops and newspapers you’ll see many customers digging into gigantic egg sandwiches. “We probably make 30 or 40 of them a day on the weekends,” says cook James Warren. He chalks up their popularity to the oversized English muffin the sandwich is built on, made locally by La Metro Bakery.
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CityBites
Beer & Steak For beer, the Blue Monk (727 Elmwood Ave.), features 32 beers on tap, including a number from Belgium, a few from Quebec and a hometown brewing hero, The Flying Bison Brewing Company. Their Rusty Chain is a Vienna style amber, and a local favourite. After a few of those you’ll be in the perfect mood to take your first tentative step into the Old Pink (223 Allen St.) for a different kind of beer experience. A Buffalo fixture, this is one dive Guy Fieri probably won’t visit, but worth it for the amazing steak sandwich. Don’t let the hole-in-the-wall décor fool you, it is without a doubt the city’s best-kept secret. “A lot of people come in, take a look around and leave because they can’t believe good food could possibly be coming out of a place like this,” says bartender Sean Waters. The grill is behind the bar, so after the bartender serves you a Budweiser for $2.25 he’ll grab a 12 oz. New York strip and slap it on the heat. Then he’ll slice it and place it on a grilled sub bun, topping it with provolone and sautéed green peppers and onions and serving it with a pickle and a bottle of Worcestershire. Slap down 10 dollars and it’s yours. It is so big it could feed four Canadians easily but it’s so good there is no way you’ll want to share. According to Waters the secret is in the grill itself: “That grill has been seasoned by steaks for 20 years. That’s where the flavour is.”
The Buffalo Hit List Shango Bistro & Wine Bar
SAMPLE
For New Orleans-infused brunch food with locally sourced ingredients. 3260 Main St., shangobistro.com
Adam Goetz likes to play with his food. Try his cherry flavoured Styrofoam. 242 Allen St., samplerestaurantbuffalo.com
Parkside Candy
TEMPO
Homemade candy and chocolates since 1929. 3208 Main St., parksidecandy.com
Larger than life Chef Paul Jenkins puts out rustic Italian dishes in a boisterous dining room. 581 Delaware Ave., tempobuffalo.com
Sweet_ness 7
For great coffee and a breakfast sandwich the size of your head. 220 Grant St, sweetness7.com Blue Monk
Sean Waters flames out at Old Pink.
Meat & More Meat Across the street from the Old Pink you’ll find Sample (242 Allen St.) where Chef Adam Goetz presides over the world’s smallest kitchen. One night he serves pig trotter steam buns as part of his ever-changing array of specials. “My crew had never used trotters before so we thought we’d have some fun with it,” Goetz explains. “This is the time of year I get excited to be a chef — when the farmers start coming to the back door and the creative juices really start flowing.” For rustic Italian try the bolognese at Tempo (581 Delaware Ave.), or hit up Trattoria Aroma (307 Bryant St.) where they use Amish-made mozzarella in their caprese salad and serve succulent pork chops from Blossom Hill Farm. Then there’s Seabar (475 Ellicott St.), known for its sushi as much as for its love of foie gras. The James Beard-nominated chef, Mike Andrzejewski, has a dish on his menu called Bourdain’s Last Meal — an homage to the omnivorous chef and TV personality — that features foie gras torchon, bone marrow and pork belly.
Get inspired St. Lawrence Market
Beers from Belgium, Quebec and, most importantly, Buffalo. 727 Elmwood Ave., thebluemonkbflo.com Old Pink
The best steak sandwich you will ever eat. 223 Allen St.
Trattoria Aroma
An authentic Italian menu that makes great use of Western New York’s local produce. 307 Bryant St., thearomagroup.com the mansion
This hotel showcases Buffalo’s incredible architectural history and flaunts its former wealth. 414 Delaware Ave., mansionondelaware.com
Rest Most of the city’s hotels are along Delaware Avenue. You’ll find sumptuous accommodations at Mansion (414 Delaware Ave.) — it’s more than 140 years old and offers the finest place to rest your head (and stomach) in the city. There you have it, a day in Buffalo without one reference to the Bills or the Sabres and not a single chicken wing in sight. And if you’re still not convinced to make this your summer road trip, just remember they have not one, but two Targets in Buffalo. CB Ivy Knight writes about Toronto’s food scene for a variety of publications is the host of 86’d Mondays at the Drake Hotel.
We have a great line-up of cooking programs throughout summer and fall. We’re covering everything from healthy eating to cupcakes! Visit stlawrencemarket.com to see the full schedule of classes. Reference CityBites and *receive 20% off a cooking program. Register at kitchen@stlawrencemarket.com or 416.860.0727 facebook.com/stlawrencemarket *Offer expires Dec 31, 2011 and does not include the executive chef series. Summer 2011
29
The Cocktail Files
By Jen Agg
Where can I go to get a really good Manhattan in Toronto? In Toronto, we have finally caught up to the rest of the world in terms of bistros. We have a casual-fine dining restaurant for every occasion. There are no-reservations restaurants everywhere, a sure sign that our dining market is becoming a strong voice. In terms of cool bars, we’re over-saturated. There’s a hipster dive bar every five feet in the west end. But where are the cocktail bars? Why do I have to go to a restaurant to have a well-made Manhattan? Or Vieux Carré? Or a damn Martini for that matter? I am in my thirties, have just enough extra dough to live the way I want to and I have a palate for great drinks. I can’t be the only one. Thanks to Dave Mitton of the Harbord Room, and his tireless efforts at community-building among Toronto’s best and brightest bartenders, I know I’m not alone. I know there are other people who want to make things better, people who want to put pressure on the LCBO to carry the products we need to produce quality drinks. Who want to gently but enthusiastically educate the public and their palates about a whole new world of drinking delights. Just as the demand for better coffee brought a myriad of choice for the city’s espresso lovers, so too will the demand for craft cocktails lead to the dens in which to enjoy them. I guess we’ll know we’ve made an impact when gin surpasses vodka in both placement and sales. And when coolers are obsolete (a girl can dream). But there is still the problem of where to go. And the question of why we are years behind the trend of craft cocktails. Cities like Portland and Vancouver have one-fifth the population of Toronto but are literally swimming in progressive or pre-prohibition cocktail bars. Their restaurants have interesting cocktail programs. Try this: type “cocktails” and either “Portland,” “Vancouver” or “Toronto” into Google. There are countless feature articles in respected publications on the scenes in these two small cities. But for Toronto, there is not much that floats to the top. I can already hear the choruses of “What about Frankie from Barchef?
And “Hello? Sandy and Mike and their Kindling events?” I am not here to discount the awesome stuff my peers are doing. Cause, yeah, Barchef has taken the lead on molecular mixology, and of course Frankie Solarik makes great drinks. And Mike Webster and Sandy De Almeida are industry leaders in A tray of lovely Manhattans. creativity and execution. They are also both humble in their approach. They do if for the love of cocktails. And the Kindling events showcase their wonderful boozy drinks on their terms. But there are fewer than 20 of us, really. And some of us don’t have a platform. It takes an investment to open your own place and not everyone is financially ready to take that leap. Which is fine. But how come no one is backing these young, keen bartenders? One of our great problems is that we are an insecure city in general. Yes, we’re pretty sure we’re the shit… in Canada. But not compared to NYC or Chicago. We’re a young country and a lot of our Canadian identity is wrapped up in olde English traditions of politesse and hypocrisy. It certainly does not promote our own evolution if we keep slapping each other on the back in a congratulatory way, while whispering to our close frinds how “bullshit” everything is. This attitude will keep change creeping along at glacial speed. The way to get better is to be bold, take risks and tell the truth. The truth is this: We have a dearth of cocktail bars and by the time we catch up the world will be onto something else. I hope that that cocktail will become JEN AGG is co-owner of part of our food culture The Black Hoof restaurant. landscape though, and As enthusiastic as she is about libations in general there will be a place (and Manhattans in where they will have a particular), she understands Gimlet or a Manhattan where cocktails lie on the at the ready. CB scale of “important things.”
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Raising the bar
Szabo on Wine
By John Szabo MS
Extreme Winegrowing In Germany’s Mosel, making wine is an endurance sport Extreme winegrowing is not a recognized sport, but I’d put it up there with lumberjacking and mountaineering for the degree of physical preparedness required to pull it off. By extreme I mean steep: vineyards perched on slopes better suited to double-diamond skiing then growing grapes. Why go to such heroic lengths to make wine? The answer is simple: necessity. The steepest vineyards are often near the limits of viable viticulture, and in the far north or at high elevations, only the slopes facing the sun at steep angles will ripen grapes. The northern Rhône, Switzerland, northern Italy, Austria, the Douro Valley and others can boast of some pretty radical slopes, but the old world’s most extreme winemaking is in the Mosel, Germany. The tortuous course of the Mosel River, and its two main tributaries, the Saar and the Ruwer, have carved slopes of vertigo-inducing steepness over millennia through thick layers of blue, grey and red slate. The Mosel covers just 140 kilometers within German borders as the crow flies, though it takes 250 kilometers to do so. The river’s sweet spot is known as the Middle Mosel, which encompasses the villages of Brauneberg, Bernkastel, Graach, Wehlen, Ürzig and Erden. The most celebrated vineyards in these villages are found in the favourable bends in the river, where southeast, south and southwest facing slopes have been formed. Grapes do not grow on north-facing slopes. Mosel growers are like mountain goats. These vineyards require the same steady, level-headedness as exterior window washing on skyscrapers. Some growers hire helicopters to do the spraying part; some vineyards are equipped with mini funicular railways to facilitate getting grapes down and eroded soil back up. Of course, it’s not enough to be steep. There’s a reason why wine has been made in the Mosel for 2,000 years: it’s the source of the world’s finest riesling. Mosel riesling has an unmistakable profile, an inimitable balance between quivering acidity and ripe fruit, thanks to the long growing season, up to 160 days compared to around 100 elsewhere. This long “hang time” allows grapes to fully ripen at low potential alcohol (7%-12%), while cool nights retain crucial acidity. Add to this a delectable cocktail of dissolved mineral flavours from the decomposed slate and the result is pure Mosel. The less-sweet wines labeled kabinett and spätlese give you the most-terroir-for-your-money. A century ago, Mosel riesling cost three times more than first-growth Bordeaux. Twenty years ago, changing fashions put the very survival of these vineyards in jeopardy. Today, we’re loving them all over again — German exports were up 15 percent in Canada last year. But the prices haven’t yet caught up. Mosel wines are way undervalued, so get ‘em before the rest of the world figures it out. CB
Dr. Hermann Riesling Spätlese 2006, ürziger Würzgarten 91 points | $22.95 Classic Mosel nose, still relatively fresh for a five-year-old wine, with honey, wet hay, green herbs, citrus blossom and stone fruit. Killer complexity. LCBO #197178 Dr. Hermann Riesling Kabinett 2008, ürziger Würzgarten 91 points | $16.95 An astounding value from one of the steepest slopes in Germany, this shows distinctive minerality with the typically bright and zesty acid of the 2008 vintage. LCBO #207266 Dr. Hermann Riesling Kabinett 2008, Erdener Treppchen 90 points | $16.95 Elegant, old-school style, with screaming minerality, honey, white flowers and ripe citrus-grapefruit aromas — outstanding complexity for the money. LCBO #189647 Studert Prüm Riesling Kabinett 2009, Qmp, Wehlener Sonnenuhr 90 points | $18.95 Pale, shimmering, terrific minerality and complexity, wonderfully floral and fragrant, ripe but crisp. Flavours are in the apple, bees wax, pine needle and wet wool range, plus classic citrus and green peach; ready to drink but will hold short-mid-term. LCBO #970129 St. Urbans Hof Riesling 2008, Qba Mosel, Estate Btld. 89 points | $15.95 Citrus blossom and fresh stone fruit flavours dominate, with a characteristic touch of wildflower honey common in Mosel rieslings and enough slatey-minerality to satisfy the purist. LCBO #995746 Urban Riesling 2008, Mosel 87 points | $14.95 A perfect introduction to Mosel Riesling, delivering classic styling at a more than fair price. LCBO #184051
photo: Bill Zacharkiw
Schmitt-Söhne Relax Riesling 2009 86 points | $11.95 Believe it or not, despite the kitschy packaging, the wine inside is solid. Sourced mainly from the lower Mosel, this has all you could want at the price. LCBO #621888 john szabo is wine editor of CityBites, buyer for the Terroni Group of Restaurants and reviewer for WineAlign.com. Catch his wine picks and news via twitter@johnszabo.
Winegrower or mountain goat?
Summer 2011
31
the ej
By Konrad Ejbich
What a let down No worries of mayhem in the streets over ‘loosening’ of liquor laws
Work with We seek eager ad sales reps to join our team. Email info@citybites.ca
It might be easier to get rid of a Muammar Gaddafi or Bashar al-Assad than it is to get rid of the tired old attitude Ontario’s government has toward alcohol. Recently the province announced it would be introducing exciting new changes to loosen our restrictive liquor laws, just in time for summer. Details to follow. “Great!” I thought, and then began to ponder what exciting changes Dalton McGuinty and his Liberal government might have in mind for us. Could they possibly be bringing beer and wine to grocery stores? Why not? Both hops and grapes are available at Quebec dépanneurs, throughout the U.S., Europe and Asia, South America, Australia and New Zealand... that is, pretty much the rest of the free and world. What if the government was planning to introduce a new distribution system, similar to the Brewers’ Retail, which would allow local wineries to pool their resources and open shops for wine lovers like me. Finally, we could buy those high-quality homegrown wines from producers who have no access to the market through the LCBO. In a moment of whimsy, I imagined our elected representatives might permit fruit wineries to sell their tiny production at local farmers’ markets. I still don’t understand why the government lets them make fruit wine but won’t let them sell it. How ridiculous is that? Then it occurred to me that, with all the recent talk of Canadians becoming cross-border criminals when they carry a bottle across a provincial boundary, McGuinty might be planning to dismantle the unconstitutional “Berlin Wall” of the national wine industry — trade barriers that keep B.C. and other Canadian wines out of Ontario. Perhaps that would prompt other provinces to reciprocate and permit Ontario wines into their stores. What a concept. Hey! Suddenly I had a brainwave. A wild thought. What if this was THE BIG ONE? Could they possibly be contemplating the privatization of the LCBO? The Holy Grail of right-minded people who believe that government should govern and business should do business? I began to imagine a province where someone like me could open a small private wine shop that sells only bottles I personally recommend to customers who trust my judgment. And if you couldn’t find the wine you wanted in my shop, I could recommend another store nearby.
No government should run a business that competes with its own citizens. In this new wine universe, some shops might stock thousands of cheap wines, others might specialize VQA products. Wine merchants would have the right to open 24/7 because 21st century folks work round the clock and relax at different times. Unfortunately, when the details of the announcement emerged, my hopes were dashed. This was the highlight: I’d be able to drink for one extra hour from 1 a.m. to 2 a.m., next time I attend a wedding. Well, whoop-de-do! In Toronto’s downtown entertainment district last call is 2 a.m. every night, and when Hollywood starlets come to town for TIFF, they get to drink till 4 a.m. That’s special treatment I don’t get. In a modern, civilized and democratic nation, no government should run a business that competes with its own citizens. In fact, it shouldn’t run any business. Government’s job is to govern people and regulate business. Period. I ran into Dalton McGuinty at a trade show last year and asked him about this. He smirked and tossed me a well-pracKonrad ejbich is a member of the tised line: “Everybody gets Wine Writer’s Circle of Canada. He one vote.” writes for Style at Home magazine There’s an election coming and answers caller questions on CBC this fall. I vote for privatizing Radio’s Ontario Today. He’s currently updating his Pocket Guide to Ontario the LCBO. Join me. CB Wines, Wineries, Vineyards & Vines. Follow twitter.com/WineZone
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CityBites
libations
By Stephen Beaumont
Wheat Beer 101 take a load off and discover the best of the weissbiers from around the world It is by now accepted wisdom that wheat beers are great summer beers. Although tasty year-round, brews such as Denison’s Weissbier, Hacker-Pschorr Hefe Weisse, Unibroue’s Blanche de Chambly and the new Dominus Vobiscum Blanche from Charlevoix seem to really hit their stride when the sun is high and the mercury soars. But those two styles, Bavarian and Belgian in origin, are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to wheat beers. And as it turns out, many of the other styles are equally fun in the sun. We don’t get much in the way of traditional lambic beers in Ontario, so the arrival of Cuvée René Grand Cru from the Belgian brewer Lindemans is cause for celebration. As with all traditional lambics—identified for the purpose of appellation Oude or Vieille, meaning old—this is a beer made with about one-third unmalted wheat to two-thirds malted barley and spontaneously fermented by wild, airborne microflora. What really gives a true lambic its character, however, is the post-inoculation conditioning and aging it undergoes for up to three years in oak barrels. For a gueuze like Cuvée Réné Grand Cru, lambics of different ages are selected for blending and bottling, after which a sort of modified méthode Champenoise is undertaken, the difference being that the bottle-fermenting yeast is not disgorged, but rather left in the beer. The Lindemans Gueuze is among the most lemony of these idiosyncratic beers, with a bracing tartness and refreshingly effervescent character. Approach this expecting anything remotely resembling a typical lager or ale and you will be both shocked and disappointed. Forget everything you think you know about beer however, and you’ll find yourself facing down a unique and exceptional offering more champagne-esque than beer-like. For those less tart-tolerant, the Lindemans Kriek is an altogether more populist beverage. The brewery takes three parts young-and-not-quite-so-tart lambic and blends them with one part fruit juice plus glucose, yielding a brew that is pink, sweet, quite fruity and low in alcohol. Also pink and arriving in stores this summer is Dieu du Ciel’s Rosée d’Hibiscus, a wheat beer flavoured with, as the name suggests, real hibiscus flowers. It boasts a floral character that is almost equal parts perfumey and astringent, qualities that combine to make it a wonderful mid-afternoon tipple. Buy this early in the season though as the longer it sits bottled, the less the impact the flowers have on the flavour. Speaking of flavoured wheats, Amsterdam’s confusingly named Oranje Weisse is back this summer, in all its orange-accented glory. It’s principally crafted in the Belgian style of wheat beer, with unmalted wheat, coriander and orange peel, despite boasting a decidedly Teutonic name—weisse being German for white—hence the confusion. Lovers of orange will not be disappointed, though, as this beer certainly delivers on the first part of its moniker, with supporting roles played by coriander and barely noticeable anise. Finally, in a more traditionalist vein, one of my great favourites from last summer is also returning this year, Schneider Wiesen Edel-Weisse. Produced by the brewery that brings us Aventinus and Schneider Weisse year-round, the Wiesen in the name means meadow, which is a Munich-area slang term for Oktoberfest, indicating that this is styled after the brewery’s old autumnal celebration beer. With all organic ingredients, a little extra strength (at 6.2% alcohol) and a fuller body than most weissbiers, the Stephen Beaumont is Eden-Weisse is a beer full of character I’d keeping himself on a steady suggest stocking up on. It’s light enough for diet of wheat beers as he summer evenings and yet still sufficiently completes his next book, The World Atlas of Beer, in satisfying when fall eventually rears its winddowntown Toronto. swept head. CB
at the LCBO The Lucky Country Wines deliver great taste and value. You can now share and enjoy the experience of what makes Australia the “Lucky Country.”
2009 Shiraz Price: $15.85 | #145276 Dark, zesty, fun with a licorice burst. Intense texture; silky, dense, flavourful and easy to drink. All around great Aussie Shiraz.
2010 Rose Price: $12.95 | #234427 Fun,
refreshing
and
light
bodied! This Aussie Rose is perfect for a summer lunch or on its own anytime.
Visit our website for information about our wines, tasting notes, store locations, events, and more!
www.bwwines.com
Fill Das Glas With Fünf! Simple and accessible, Fünf makes wine fun and easy. Its light, fruity and well balanced. Perfect for any occasion!
Das Glas
Fünf Riesling $9.95 LCBO #175026 www.hhdimports.com
Summer 2011
33
One last bite
By Dick Snyder
The End of an Era El Bulli on film, as the curtain closes
The legend of El Bulli comes
photos: Alive Mind Cinema
to the big screen with German director Gereon Wetzel’s documentary on the mad-scientist chef Ferran Adrià. The New York Times has called the Spanish chef’s restaurant/ laboratory “the most influential restaurant in the world” and his playful, inventive and experimental concoctions led the molecular gastronomy movement that defined haute cuisine over the past decade or so. Adrià is closing his restaurant on July 30. El Bulli: Cooking in Progress will remain the enduring record of a monumental achievement. No word yet on when the film is coming to Canada, though it appeared at Hot Docs this spring. From July 27 to August 9, it’s screening at Film Forum, West Houston St., in New York City.
34
CityBites
OLD WORLD WINERIES Alex Gambal (FR) Champagne Fleury (FR) Chateau de la Maltroye (FR) Château de Meursault – (Patriarche) (FR) Domaine de la Pinte (FR) Domaine de la Vougeraie (FR) Domaine des Deux Roches (FR) Domaine Jean Fery & Fils (FR) Domaine Laroche (FR) Jermann (IT) Maison Roche de Bellene by Nicholas Potel (FR) Sattlerhof (AT) Tenuta Mosole Sergio Di Mosole Lucio (IT) Vie di Romans (IT) Weingut Fred Loimer (AT) Weingut Wieninger (AT)
The International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration July 22-24, 2011 • Niagara Peninsula
Visit coolchardonnay.org for full program details.
NEW WORLD WINERIES Adelsheim (OR) Argyle Winery (OR) Ataraxia Wines (ZA) Bouchard Finlayson (ZA) Cooper Mountain Vineyards (OR) Dr. Konstantin Frank (NY) Evening Land Vineyards (OR) Hamacher Wines (OR ) Josef Chromy Wines (Tasmania) Mount Difficulty (NZ) Ponzi Vineyards (OR) Pyramid Valley Vineyards (NZ) The Millton Vineyard (NZ) Vina Aquitania (Chile)
CANADIAN WINERIES 13th Street Winery (ON) Angels Gate Winery (ON) Blue Mountain Vineyards & Cellars (BC) Closson Chase (ON) Coyote’s Run Estate Winery (ON) Flat Rock Cellars (ON) Hillebrand (ON) Inniskillin Wines (ON) Lailey Vineyard (ON) Le Clos Jordanne (ON) Mission Hill Winery (BC) Norman Hardie Winery and Vineyard (ON) Pillitteri Estates Winery (ON) Southbrook Vineyards (ON) Tawse Winery (ON) Vineland Estates (ON)
Join keynote speaker and emcee Matt Kramer, noted wine author and columnist, for a memorable celebration. Taste over 100 cool climate chardonnays from 8 countries set against the breathtaking backdrop of Niagara’s wine country. Savour “Claws and Curds” pairings and gourmet vineyard luncheons; enjoy exceptional dining at Friday’s Gala Dinner and Saturday’s “Cochon and Chardonnay” spit-roasted pig event with renowned chef Jamie Kennedy. Mingle with winemakers from Burgundy, Oregon, New Zealand and beyond at this threeday celebration of the coolest grape on earth. Visit coolchardonnay.org for program details and to book tickets for this exclusive event. Be cool.
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