FOSTER FIRST PROGRAM
Where Animal Connections Happen
PURPOSE & RESPONSIBILITIES
BENEFITS OF THE PROGRAM
A Animals don’t have to be in a shelter environment.
A Each animal gets more individual attention.
A Each animal has an opportunity to successfully find a forever home without the immediate long-term commitment.
A Reduce the overall number of less successful adoptions.
Adopting is a big commitment. Animals require time and patience, and adopters will need both of these qualities to be successful. Most of the animals in the program are strays with unknown histories. Many of the rescued dogs are not housebroken and lack training. Adopting is very rewarding, but it involves discovering and working through challenges such as these.
Be aware that adopting is not without risk. All adopters must recognize the inherent dangers to themselves, their property, and their existing pets. CAS is not responsible for any associated damages.
RESPONSIBILITIES OF BEING AN ADOPTER
A Feed, shelter, socialize, groom, and medicate the adoptee in your home.
A Begin basic obedience and other training (e.g., housebreaking) with the adoptee in your home.
A Ensure the safety of adoptee in your care.
A Report any medical or other problems regarding adoptee in your home to CAS during the term of the Program.
A Comply with CAS Program policies.
GENERAL PROGRAM INFORMATION
CAS PROVIDES:
5 Collar and I.D. tag
5 Medicine for adoptee, if necessary
ADOPTER PROVIDES:
5 Food
5 Litter boxes
5 Toys
5 Cat litter
WAIVER OF RESPONSIBILITY
CAS is not responsible for and does not provide reimbursement for the following:
5 Damage to adopter’s personal property caused by adoptee
5 Any illness of, injury to, or medical treatment for adopter’s existing companion animals or personal injury to adopter caused by adoptee
5 Any costs incurred from unauthorized veterinary treatment of adoptee
5 Any costs incurred as a result of participating in the Foster First Program other than those previously approved by CAS
ADOPTER/ADOPTEE
SAFETY GUIDELINES
DOGS AND CATS MUST ALWAYS WEAR A COLLAR AND ID
Ensure the safety of the adoptee by keeping their collar with I.D. tags on at all times. A dog or cat can be gone in seconds. Even the most responsible adopter may experience unexpected circumstances which cause animals to stray. Collars with tags make the critical difference in whether or not CAS can locate the animal in a timely manner.
CATS MUST ALWAYS TRAVEL IN A CRATE
Crates are the safest way for a cat to travel. There is NO excuse for a traveling cat not to be in a crate. Cats must always be kept indoors. CAS adopts cats out to be indoor pets only, and expects adopters to respect this requirement as well. Even if existing cats in the household are allowed outside, adoptee cats must be kept indoors.
DOGS MUST BE WALKED ON A LEASH
City ordinance requires dogs to be leashed when not contained within a house or fenced yard.
NEVER LEAVE ANIMALS UNATTENDED IN A VEHICLE
Even with the windows cracked, the surface temperature within a vehicle can be more than 40 degrees higher than the outside temperature. It is not safe to leave animals unattended in a vehicle.
NEVER ATTACH AN ANIMAL TO AN INANIMATE OBJECT
Leaving an animal unattended and tethered is prohibited by City ordinance and state law, and can result in injury or death of the animal.
CHILDREN WALKING DOGS
Children under the age of 16 should not walk dogs without supervision.
LOST ANIMALS
If an adoptee becomes lost, CONTACT CAS IMMEDIATELY. Sometimes seconds count! The sooner CAS knows, the better the chance of finding the animal.
ANIMAL PROOFING YOUR HOME
Animals are very curious creatures, many of which are capable of jumping onto high surfaces or squeezing into the smallest of spaces. To protect the adoptee in their new environment and to safeguard your belongings, the home must be animal proofed.
KITCHEN/BATHROOMS
5 Use childproof latches to keep little paws from prying open cabinets.
5 Keep toilet lids closed.
5 Keep medications, cleaners, chemicals, and laundry supplies on high shelves.
5 Check for and block any small spaces, nooks, or holes inside cabinetry or behind washer/dryer units.
5 Always make sure they haven’t jumped in the washer/dryer before turning it on.
5 Keep foods out of reach and put away. (For some animals, nothing is out of reach no matter how high it is!)
LIVING ROOM/FAMILY ROOM
5 Place dangling wires from lamps, TVs, stereos, computers, phones, and other electronics out of reach.
5 Keep kids' toys put away.
5 Put away knickknacks and breakables until the adoptee has the coordination and/or understanding not to knock them over.
5 Block all those places where the vacuum cleaner doesn’t fit but an animal could.
5 Remove dangerous items such as strings and pins.
5 Move houseplants, which can be poisonous, out of reach, including plants that can be jumped onto from other surfaces.
5 Be careful not to close animals in closets or dresser drawers.
5 Make sure all heating/air vents have a cover.
5 Put away all sewing and craft supplies, especially thread.
5 Secure aquariums or cages that house small animals like hamsters or fish to prevent harm by another animal.
GARAGE
5 Move all chemicals to high shelves or behind secure doors.
5 Clean up antifreeze from the floor and driveway — one taste can be lethal.
5 Bang on your car hood to ensure that an animal has not sought the warmth of the engine for a nap.
BEDROOMS
5 Keep laundry and shoes behind closed doors.
5 Keep any medications, lotions, or cosmetics off accessible surfaces.
5 Move electrical chargers and wires out of chewing range.
POISON
Animal proofing tips provided by American Humane Association.
ARRIVING HOME
INTRODUCING ADOPTEES
If other animals currently live in the home, it is important to know how to make introductions, so resident pets and adoptees can have a smooth transition into living together.
INTRODUCTING CATS INTO A HOUSEHOLD WITH OTHER CATS
A good basic rule when bringing a new cat home to other cat(s) is to separate the new cat into its own room. This gives the new cat a chance to get used to its new environment and everybody a chance to ease into getting to know each other. Let the cats sniff each other under the door for a few days.
Next, make everybody switch places for a short while. Let the new cat out of its room and put the resident cat(s) into its room. This gives the new cat a chance to explore the house, and lets the resident cat(s) have a chance to check out the new cat’s smells without directly interacting with each other.
After doing this a few times, supervise face-to-face meetings. Keep in mind that some hissing, spitting, and slapping are very common when cats first meet each other. Cats often need a long adjustment period, so give the cats a few weeks to work through any initial unfriendliness.
INTRODUCING CATS INTO A DOG HOUSEHOLD
Confine the resident dog(s) while you let the cat explore the house. Supervise a face-to-face meeting while holding the resident dog(s) on a leash. Until you are confident of safe interactions, do not leave the dog(s) and cat(s) unsupervised.
INTRODUCING DOGS INTO A HOUSEHOLD WITH OTHER DOGS
The best way to introduce two dogs is to have them first meet on neutral territory. Have both dogs on a leash and under control. Involve the dogs in a long walk, or some form of play or exercise.
When arriving home, have the dogs walk the area around the house together, the same as on the neutral territory. When entering the house, let the new dog go first so the existing resident dog doesn’t feel they have to defend their territory. All items that could cause a possession challenge (toys, food, bones) should be removed beforehand.
Observe their reactions towards each other. Feed them separately and never leave them together unsupervised until you are confident they have made friends with each other. There may be small disagreements or outbreaks. Try to ignore these or distract them from pursuing it further. If you feel there is a good chance they will fight, attach a short lead to their collar in case they need to be separated.
Establishment of the hierarchy will usually take about two weeks.
SUGGESTIONS
ON CLEANING PROCEDURES
WHAT TO CONSIDER
Viruses, bacteria, parasites, and fungus are the most common organisms that CAS deals with in a shelter environment. When housing an animal, it is important to consider all objects they may have contact with and disinfect them accordingly. This will help protect these animals. It’s also important to consider what cleaning agents are safe to use on certain surfaces. While all surfaces may not be able to be cleaned, the simple action of decreasing the numbers of environmental pathogens through washing and/or vacuuming helps.
CHEMICAL DISINFECTANT GROUPS
Chemical disinfectants are grouped based on their properties:
Soluble alcohols – Alcohol is effective against viruses and bacteria, but not fungi (e.g., Isopropyl alcohol and rubbing alcohol).
Halogens – Halogens are effective against viruses, bacteria, parasites, and fungi (e.g., bleach).
Phenolics – Phenolics are weakly effective against viruses and poor with fungi (e.g., Lysol).
Detergents – Scrubbing with a detergent alone is effective for many bacteria (e.g., Pine-Sol®).
PROPER CLEANING RECOMMENDATIONS
When using bleach, the recommended dilution is 1 part bleach to 30 parts water and the recommended contact time is 10 minutes. Other recommendations on strength can be obtained from the manufacturer.
With non-toxic environmentally friendly products like Simple Green, it is important to read the labels. It is not a disinfectant, but the company does make a Simple Green D which is a disinfectant. This also applies to newer products such as Clorox Wipes. Most people assume that bleach is an ingredient in this product, but it is not.
Parasites and their eggs are difficult to deal with because many are resistant to cold and heat and can survive for years in the soil. The most effective way to deal with parasites in a yard is to clean up after an animal as often as possible.
Never mix bleach with other cleaning products, as it can create harmful and potentially fatal toxic fumes. Bleach will react with any cleaning product containing ammonia or an acid, including vinegar. To prevent harmful reactions, read product labels carefully and follow the manufacturer's directions.
TRAINING INFORMATION
CRATE TRAINING
Many people mistakenly equate crates with canine incarceration. However, if adopters introduce dogs to a crate in a positive way, it’s possible to avoid some common crating mistakes. Crates work well as a housetraining aid (because dogs don’t like to soil the same space in which they lie), a temporary playpen when the dog can’t be supervised, and a cozy bedroom where they can feel snug and safe.
DETERMINING CRATE SIZE
Crates should be large enough for the dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down. A crate that is bigger than this can sabotage housetraining because the animal can eliminate at one end and then lay at the other end.
DO
5 Leave the crate door open until the dog willingly enters and exits on its own.
5 Reward the dog with praise, petting, and treats when getting into the crate.
5 Hide treats in the crate.
5 Feed the dog in the crate so it identifies the "den" with the ultimate canine joy — eating.
5 Equip the crate with a soft, warm pad/blanket.
5 Encourage the dog to nap in its crate so that it associates the crate with rest and relaxation.
DON’T
5 Never use the crate as punishment — either deliberately or unintentionally. If you crate the dog only when you leave, the dog connects the crate with a negative consequence — your departure — and begins to view the crate as punishment.
5 Don’t put the crate in a high traffic or noisy area.
5 Don’t overdo crating. While it’s advisable to crate a dog for short periods while you are home, don’t use the crate as a substitute for human interaction.
5 Don’t put a water bowl in the crate.
AFFIRMATIVE ACTIONS
Don’t force a crate on a dog if they panic at the mere sight of one. Due to unfortunate past circumstances, some dogs simply won’t tolerate crating — but they should still have a place to call their own. Your job is to teach the dog that the crate is a great place to be. No matter the dog’s age, make sure every interaction it has with the crate is pleasant. In fact, if the crate is set up before the dog arrives at the foster home, the crate will take on the scent of the home and the foster dog will see it as another piece of furniture.
Stay nearby while the dog acclimates to the crate. Once the dog is comfortable enough in the crate to tolerate a closed door, leave the room — and eventually the home — for increasingly longer periods of time.
Even though the dog loves the crate, it may whine a bit when left alone in it the first couple times. Always wait until the dog is calm and quiet before opening the door. Uncrating the dog because it is whining teaches it that whining is okay.
Acclimate the dog to its crate while you are home, so it doesn’t associate the crate with being alone. When the dog is crate-comfy enough to be left alone for several hours, crate it 5 or 10 minutes before leaving and 5 or 10 minutes after returning before letting it out. Avoid emotional departures, which incite nervousness in dogs. And when letting the dog out, behave nonchalantly at first. Take the dog out to eliminate immediately, and then celebrate the reunion by doing something fun together.
CORRECTING UNDESIRED BEHAVIORS
Dogs and cats need to learn their limits when living in a household. Some behaviors just aren’t safe or acceptable, and it is up to the adopter to show the animal what these limits are. Since most cats and dogs don’t understand a verbal list of dos and don’ts, humans have to show them what is not permissible. Hitting or spanking an animal is unnecessary. There are many more effective methods of changing an animal’s behavior.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Everyone knows that cats are very different creatures than dogs. However, cats can be trained, too. A great tool for teaching cats is a squirt bottle. Cats don’t like being squirted with water, and they respond to it quickly. The key to any type of correction is catching the animal in the act. If you wait and correct them later, they will not associate the behavior with the correction. Keep spray bottles at key locations throughout the house. When the cat performs an undesired behavior such as jumping onto the kitchen countertop, spray them with water immediately and say "no."
CLAWING
Like it or not, sharpening claws is a natural behavior for cats. Clawing is also a way for cats to leave their scent mark. You may discover that some kitties will never even attempt to scratch the furniture, while others will take every opportunity to make their mark. This behavior cannot be trained out of a cat, but it can be redirected to objects that will save the new living room furniture.
If an adoptee cat likes to claw, take note of where they do this. Furniture and other appealing scratchable items can be protected from clawing in various ways:
Double-sided tape
Aluminum foil or plastic wrap
Cat repellent sprays
The cat needs something that they are allowed to scratch, such as a scratching post or mat.
The placement of the post is also important. If you put the post in a back bedroom where the cat never goes, they probably won’t use it. Place the post next to the piece of furniture they like to scratch or in an area in which they spend a lot of time.
Use corrective methods like the spray bottle when the cat scratches the wrong thing. Then, take the cat to the scratching post. Gently rub their front paws on the post and give them praise. Consider rubbing catnip on the post to make it more appealing.
Remember, you cannot train a cat while you're away from home. If you don’t want your furniture torn up while you're out, confine the cat to a scratch-proof room while you are gone.
SYMPTOMS TO WATCH FOR
IF YOU SEE ANY OF THE FOLLOWING SYMPTOMS, CONTACT CAS IMMEDIATELY:
EYES
5 Yellow or green discharge
5 Uneven pupil dilation
5 Swollen conjunctiva, including third eyelid
5 White film or cloudiness over eye
5 Yellowing on whites of eyes
EARS
5 Dark, flaky debris, especially in cats
5 Dark, waxy discharge
5 Yeasty smell
5 Painful to the touch
5 Frequent scratching
NOSE
5 Yellow or green discharge
5 Scabs or skin loss
5 Bleeding
5 Excessive sneezing
MOUTH
5 Vomiting, usually more than 3 times. If bloody or dark — CALL CAS IMMEDIATELY
5 Coughing or gagging, especially if accompanied by phlegm
5 Trouble eating or chewing
5 Painful gums or teeth
5 Pale gums
5 Ulcers or lacerations on gums or lips
5 Excessive salivation or change in amount of salivation
SKIN
5 Lacerations
5 Lumps
5 Hair Loss
5 Scabs
5 Frequent scratching
5 Bites on animal (or on you after contact with the animal)
ANAL/GENITAL AREA
5 Diarrhea, especially prolonged and/or bloody
5 No bowel movement for more than 48 hours
5 No urination for more than 24 hours (especially male cats)
GAIT
5 Sudden lameness that does not improve within 24 hours
5 Animal exhibits pain when walking or being handled
BEHAVIOR
5 Lethargy
5 Poor appetite
5 Increased appetite with weight loss
5 Excessive drinking
5 Increased urination or accidents in the house
5 Straining to urinate or defecate
5 Frequent scratching
5 Seizures or convulsions — CALL CAS IMMEDIATELY
VETERINARIAN VISITS
If the adoptee becomes ill or injured during the term of the Program, CONTACT CAS IMMEDIATELY.
Do not take the adoptee to a private veterinarian without written preauthorization from the Program Coordinator or Animal Services Manager.
If CAS determines the adoptee requires veterinary care, you will be instructed to drop the animal off at CAS for the day. The veterinarian will see the animal as their schedule allows, so the adoptee must be available for examination throughout the day. CAS will coordinate drop-off and pick-up with you. If medication or treatment is prescribed, CAS staff will provide guidance.
Do not contact the veterinary clinic in regards to the adoptee. CAS is your liaison to the veterinary staff.
ANIMAL BITES & INCIDENT
REPORTS
SAFETY FIRST
Don’t put yourself in a compromising situation!
Handle animals cautiously and avoid situations that could lead to injury.
Report any unusual or aggressive behavior or a bite that breaks the skin.
HOW TO DEAL WITH A BITE INCIDENT
5 Clean and flush the wound immediately with soap and water.
5 Report the incident to CAS. Staff will need to know which animal was involved and the circumstances of the bite.
5 See your doctor.
WHEN A BITE IS NOT REPORTED
Not reporting a bite creates a hazard for others handling the animal. An animal that has bitten once is usually less inhibited in biting a second time.
It jeopardizes your opportunities for future adoptions.
Texas State Law requires that animals that bite should be quarantined for 10 days for rabies observation.
