City Palate March April 2015 by City Palate

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MARCH APRIL 2015

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

COZY UP TO THE MARKET ALL YEAR ROUND

Known for our succulent smoked brisket, our juicy pulled pork and our fall-off-the-bone pork and JUMBO beef ribs. Southern comfort food at its best!

bigtsbbq.com

PREMIUM EXTRA VIRGIN & NATURALLY FLAVOURED OLIVE OILS + VINEGARS

CalgaryFarmersMarket.ca

THURSDAY – SUNDAY • 9AM – 5PM • OFF HERITAGE & BLACKFOOT

MORE AT

soffritto.ca Thanks to irrigation Gourmet Hot Dogs Lil’ Russ’ Jacket Potatoes Frozen Treats Gelato Milkshakes and other Goodies!.._

The natural choice.

FREE RANGE PORK Pasture raised & naturally fed.

• family owned and operated • focused on quality and taste

Learn more about irrigation at the Calgary Farmers’ Market or visit: thankstoirrigation.ca

Visit us in Rosemary, Alberta www.spraggsmeatshop.com

contents

CITY PALATE MARCH APRIL 2015

30 n

brand new Business Lunch out in an hour

On the Eaten Path

A Walking Tour of Victoria for the Hungry Julie Van Rosendaal

32 n OFF THE NORTH COAST OF B.C., A FOODIE AND FISHERMAN’S PARADISE Regan Johnson

34 n

From the 3 INSPIRED RECIPES FROM A SEAFOOD PRO

cean

Eric Geisbrecht

36 n

What’s NEWon the Okanagan Food & Wine Scene Jennifer Cockrall-King

38 n

6920 Macleod Trail South 403.259.0123 www.open-sesame.ca

eats

Saskatoon

THIS AIN’T YOUR GRANDMA’S SASKATOON Kate Zimmerman

40 n FROM POTATO FAMINE

to Michelin Stars THE RISING FOODIE SCENE IN IRELAND Carolyne Kauser-Abbott

can’t GIVE UP… Even if you’re trying to trim the winter padding

42 n 9 THINGS YOU JUST

you’ve put on to keep warm. Caitlin Best

culinary crossword solution C I T Y PA L AT E ’ S

48 n

AND THE WINNERS ARE....

Cover artist: Nina Palmer is a Calgary-based illustrator and designer. She and partner Todd Macfie own Platform Design. See more of their great work at platformdesign.ca.

AMAZING FOOD • UNIQUE HISTORIC SETTING ACTIVITIES FOR KIDS • MUSEUM ACCESS Sundays from 10:30am-2:00pm | Fort Calgary Barracks For reservations call 403 290 1875 fortcalgary.com

GLENBOW ARCHIVES NA-919-70

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

city palate editor Kathy Richardier (kathy@citypalate.ca) publisher Gail Norton (gail@citypalate.ca)

Bookers Knows BBQ

As Seen On

foodnetwork.ca

Spend less time in a cab... and more time enjoying one.

magazine design Carol Slezak, Yellow Brick Studios (carol@citypalate.ca) contributing editor Kate Zimmerman contributing writers Karen Anderson Caitlin Best Shelley Boettcher David Bransby-Williams Jennifer Cockrall-King Laura Di Lembo Pam Fortier Eric Giesbrecht Chris Halpin Regan Johnson Carolyne Kauser-Abbott Ellen Kelly Pierre Lamielle Geoff Last Tilly Sanchez-Turri Allan Shewchuk Julie Van Rosendaal Kate Zimmerman contributing photographers Regan Johnson Kathy Richardier for advertising enquiries, please contact advertising@citypalate.ca account executives Liz Tompkins (liz@citypalate.ca) Janet Henderson (janet@citypalate.ca) Ellen Kelly (ellen@citypalate.ca) prepress/printing CentralWeb distribution Gallant Distribution Systems Inc. The Globe and Mail website management Jane Pratico (jane@citypalate.ca) City Palate is published 6 times per year: January-February, March-April, May-June, July-August, September-October and November-December by City Palate Inc., 722 - 11 Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2R 0E4 Subscriptions are available for $48 per year within Canada and $68 per year outside Canada. Editorial Enquiries: Please email kathy@citypalate.ca For questions or comments please contact us via our website:

citypalate.ca 6

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

contents

CITY PALATE MARCH APRIL 2015

departments

9 n word of mouth

Notable culinary happenings around town

11 n eat this

What to eat in March and April Ellen Kelly

12 n drink this

White wines of the Rhône Shelley Boettcher

14 n get this

Must-have kitchen stuff Karen Anderson

16 n one ingredient

Truffles Julie Van Rosendaal

20 n feeding people

BIGTASTECALGARY.COM

Iterations of hummus Laura Di Lembo

25 n what’s cooking online?

Blogs and links that lure your imagination off the couch Kate Zimmerman

26 n well matched

Made-in-heaven food and wine pairings Pam Fortier and David Bransby-Williams

28 n the sunday project

Spanish churros con chocolate with Tilly Sanchez-Turri

44 n kids can cook NEW!

Lumberjack flap jack stack Pierre Lamielle

45 n stockpot

DISCOVER CALIFORNIA WINES

The largest tasting tour of California wines in Canada MORE THAN 400 pREMIUM WINES FROM 150 OF CALIFORNIA’S TOp pRODUCERS

Stirrings around Calgary

50 n 6 quick ways with...

Lemons Chris Halpin

52 n last meal

Keep it simple and seasonal Geoff Last

54 n back burner... shewchuk on simmer

Take my car. Please! Allan Shewchuk

7:00 pM – 9:30 pM, pALOMINO ROOM, BMO CENTRE AT STAMpEDE pARk FESTIVAL DES VINS

$75 GST INCLUDED COMpLIMENTARY HORS D’OEUVRES AND RIEDEL WINE GLASS INFO & TICKETS: 4 0 3 - 2 6 2 - 7 2 8 6

read us online at citypalate.ca

city palate

FRIDAY, ApRIL 24, 2015

@citypalate

calgaryopera.com/winefair THIS IS A FUNDRAISER BENEFITING CALGARY OpERA

W I N E FA I R

QUEBÉC CITY MONTRÉAL OTTAWA TORONTO VANCOUVER CALGARY EDMONTON HALIFAX

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

Time for a new Barbecue?

Phone 403 253 1101 | 9030 Macleod Trail South www.carriagehouse.net www.peanutspublichouse.com

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

word of mouth

NOTABLE CULINARY HAPPENINGS AROUND TOWN

Calgary’s annual poutine week and crawl

city palate culinary travel grant Calling all back-of-the-house restaurant cooks! City Palate can help you further your culinary education with a Culinary Travel Grant to help pay for your travel and expenses. For details on how to pitch us on where you’d like to go and what you’d like to learn go to citypalate.ca. Apply now! Deadlines for entries is March 20th. (See the ad, page 44)

Immerse yourself in ‘taters and cheese curds during Poutine Week, April 18-25, partnered with Mealshare – for every poutine sold during the week, a meal is given to someone in need. Participating restaurants include Modern Steak, Avec Bistro, Fine Diner, Bar C, National 17th, Wurst, Libertine, Bank & Baron Pub, Big Fish/Open Range, and more. Poutine Crawl takes place April 25. Crawlers visit six restaurants, eat and rate poutine and choose one winner. Last year it was downtownfood. Details on Twitter: @CalgaryPoutine, Facebook: CalgaryPoutineCrawl, calgarypoutine.com and mealshare.ca.

read these

sharpen your appetites Calgary’s annual The Big Taste is coming down the highway, March 6-15. This popular event from Downtown Calgary has restaurants cooking up tasty prix-fixe menus for lunch and dinner, plus chef collaboration events, cocktail parties, even dinner and a theatre show. This year, a little taste of The Big Taste will be rolled into happy hour specials on Stephen Avenue. Details and tickets at bigtastecalgary.com, also visit #bigtasteyyc.

Snap Calgary Cooks winner... edible canada’s coast-to-coast dinner series

pig & pinot 2015 Don’t miss City Palate’s 5th annual Pig & Pinot Festival, Thursday, June 18, at Hotel Arts. Teams of talented chefs work their magic on locally raised pork from The Farm with the Good Food, while pinots from around the world are served by some of our finest wine stores. Proceeds go to Meals on Wheels. Tickets are available now for this popular event: pigandpinotcalgary. eventbrite.ca. (See the ad, page 48)

a sandwich to live for We all love a good sandwich. Caffè Beano hits that nail on the head with its meat loaf sandwich, pretty much the perfect expression of “sandwich,” we think. Here’s why – a tasty, moist loaf, made with organic goodness, layered with tomato slices, just enough mayo and grainy mustard, in between just the right size slices of dense, grainy toasted bread. Delicious, too! And, to go with your sammie, Beano crafts one of the best chai tea lattes in the city, called India tea.

This is cool – Eric Pateman, birth-father of Vancouver’s Edible Canada, on Granville Island, has devised a dinner series featuring Canadian food from coast to coast with Canada’s top chefs. Each month features a different province. February kicked off with the Yukon’s boreal cuisine, March 2 is Saskatchewan, April 1, Ontario, and – ta, dah! – May 4 is Alberta with chefs Dave Bohati, MARKET, Eden Hrabec, Canmore’s Crazyweed Kitchen and Blair Lebsack, Edmonton’s RGE RD. Details and tickets at the Edible Canada web site, ediblecanada.com.

coffee worth seeking Paradise Mountain Organic Coffee is grown in Thailand, then makes its way to Calgary where it’s roasted, packaged and distributed. It could be a “poster child” for ethical, direct trade and sustainable practices in the coffee industry. The growers are owners who hand-plant and hand-harvest in a true grassroots collaborative community that supports social responsibility and sustainability to produce some of the finest coffees on the market. Find it at Amaranth, Blush Lane, Mrs. Green’s, Bridgeland Market, Planet Organic, Save On Foods and Sunterra Markets.

We wonder where Ashley Penney will go first? Ashley is the winner of the Snap Calgary Cooks Contest who won $2,400 in restaurant gift certificates! Her photo of her version of Una’s Kale Caesar Salad was randomly picked from hundreds of Twitter and Instagram entries. Thanks to everyone who entered!

mmmmm, good, discovered at the main dish Awfully tasty Kombucha Wonder Drink, an organic sparkling fermented tea, is available in the traditional style plus flavoured with Asian Pear & Ginger or Cherry or Green Tea & Lemon. You may be able to find Kombucha elsewhere, but we know you’ll find it at The Main Dish in Bridgeland.

wanted – books for kids Helping children to eat and read is the goal of a new Calgary Reads and Calgary Food Bank collaboration. As food hampers are distributed, families with children aged up to 10 will also receive a bag of age-appropriate books. Calgary Reads believes that by making books more accessible more children may have the opportunity to read every day that they eat! New or gently used children’s books can be donated directly to the Calgary Food Bank or contact info@calgaryreads.com.

Go Barley, Modern Recipes for an Ancient Grain (TouchWood Editions, soft cover, $29.95) by Calgarians Pat Inglis and Linda Whitworth, has scooped a Gourmand Cookbook award for CanadianEnglish Best Historical Recipes book that will now move on in the competition to compete with the winners of its category in other countries for the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards. Barley is good food, we could all use one of these. If you’re a fan of lobster – aren’t we all? – you’ll want The Great Lobster Cookbook, From Claw to Tail, by Matt Dean Pettit, owner of Rock Lobster Food Co. in Toronto (Random House, soft cover, $29.95). You may not have thought there was much more to lobster than boiled – there is, and it’s all in this yummy, beautiful picture book. The Adventures of Michael & Mia: Stewards of the Land, by Edward Willett, illustrated by Val Lawton. Many students in Calgary have never visited a farm and haven’t seen firsthand how their food is produced. This was written for grades 3 to 5 students in urban and rural areas to help them learn about the importance of farming and its impact in everyday life. Copies of the book will be available for free at Book Corner during Calgary Stampede’s Aggie Days, April 8-12, Halls A and B, BMO Centre, Stampede Park.

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

SH FRE

E WM

Signal Hill

Inglewood

1919 Sirocco Drive SW bistrorougeyyc.com

1240 8th Ave SE rougecalgary.com

@BistroRougeYYC

Photos by Marc Lavallee

@RougeCal

SATURDAY, APRIL 11 2015

CALGARY'S FAMOUS FOOD FRENZY! PRESENTING SPONSOR

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

SOUTHERN JUBILEE AUDITORIUM 1415 14

AV E NW

6:30 PM

TICKETS $80 403-294-7402 ATPlive.com

eat this March and April always suggest spring to us, even though we know better. Easter and all those pastel colours might have something to do with it. This time of year, some of us even experience an irrational expectation of lilacs and tulips and we can’t help craving spring-like fare. While our sane selves know we’re still a long way from actual spring on the prairies, we do know that it’s spring somewhere! And what better victuals to tide us over than asparagus, green herbs and, yes, eggs. We do tend to go on about ASPARAGUS, but it’s worthy of the attention. We’ll see our own local spears from Edgar Farms soon enough, but in the meantime we can watch as spring makes its way north from California to Washington, into B.C. and finally Alberta. You can do hundreds of things with asparagus, but simple is always best, unless you have the luxury of getting bored with asparagus. Steam trimmed spears until just tender and wrap a perfect omelette around them, dotted with a little chèvre. Finish with Maldon salt and freshly ground black pepper and serve immediately. Oven roasting creates a flavour palette with warm caramelized notes. Toss spears in a little olive oil, spread on a baking sheet and roast in a hot oven until browned. Any left-over roasted asparagus makes a lovely salad tossed with romaine lettuce, parmesan cheese curls, lemon, garlic and olive oil. We can buy EGGS any time of the year, of course, but before modern methods of raising poultry, spring heralded a hen’s renewed cycle of egg laying. Long regarded as a symbol of rebirth, the egg is a natural ambassador of spring. Fluffy omelettes, sweet silken custards and savoury baked frittatas somehow suggest lighter meals and warmer weather. An all-time favourite Spanish-inspired frittata is as good served hot as it is cold or room temperature. First, toss florets from a whole cauliflower in olive oil and roast in a hot oven until al dente and nicely caramelized. Butter a 9x11-inch baking dish and shake breadcrumbs evenly over the butter (like buttering and flouring a cake pan). Grate 2 parts manchego and 1 part parmesan cheeses to total 2 c. Chop and sauté 1 medium onion in olive oil and set aside to cool a little. Beat 8 eggs and 1-1/2 c. light cream together with salt, pepper, dashes of Worcestershire and Tabasco sauces, and a little grated nutmeg. Add the onion, 1-1/2 c. of the cheese mixture and 3-4 T. breadcrumbs to the eggs, then place the cauliflower in the dish and slowly pour the egg mixture over. Top with the rest of the cheese mixed with 1 T. breadcrumbs. Bake for 45-55 minutes at 350°F.

PARSLEY is a friend to nearly every savoury food. It particularly likes its own relatives, carrots and parsnips, providing a clean, sharp contrast to the sweetness of the vegetables. It’s certainly a star garnish, ubiquitous, really, but it can be so much more. Try making a pesto with parsley and walnuts instead of the typical basil and pine nuts. In a food processor, pulse 1 c. toasted walnuts with a rough-chopped garlic clove and the zest of 1 lemon. Add a bunch of clean flat leaf parsley, stems as well if they’re sweet. Slowly add about 1 c. good quality fruity olive oil and process until fairly smooth. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Serve this green sauce on pasta or polenta, as you would any pesto. Toss a spoonful or two with oven-roasted vegetables before serving. It’s especially good swirled with crème fraîche on the top of a carrot and parsnip soup.

Ellen Kelly

WHAT TO EAT IN MARCH AND APRIL Illustrations by Pierre Lamielle

BUY: Look for tips that are tight and unopened. Don’t buy spears with crushed or wet tips, they will quickly spoil. Asparagus rapidly loses its nutritional value and flavour after harvesting, more so than most vegetables. Buy the freshest you can find. TIPS: Be careful taking off those heavy elastic bands; make sure they don’t damage the tips. To keep in the fridge, stand the spears upright in a jar of water and loosely cover the tops. DID YOU KNOW? In Europe, asparagus is most often banked with soil to keep the growing shoots from the light. This results in thick, straight, creamy-white spears with purple- or green-tinged tips that are a celebrated delicacy. The appeal seems to be the novelty; the green tastes so much better… must be the chlorophyll!

BUY: Always buy the freshest eggs you can find, you’ll get more mileage out of them that way. Fresh eggs are best for poaching and frying, while an older egg is easier to peel when hard-boiled. TIPS: A fresh egg will stay at the bottom of a container of unsalted water; a stale egg will float, and an egg that stands on its pointed end is still safe to eat, but best for baking and boiling. Store eggs in their carton in the coldest part of the fridge. DID YOU KNOW? Chicken eggs are not the only birds’ eggs we eat. Try duck eggs for a treat. They’re much lauded by bakers and pastry chefs for their higher fat content, giving baked goods a moister, richer texture and a higher rise. Little spotted quail eggs are interesting too. They’re a bit fiddly, but make a charming garnish on salads.

BUY: As with any fresh herb, look for bright green perky leaves with no sign of wilting. TIPS: Keep parsley, and any other fresh herb, in a loosely covered jar of water in the fridge for up to a week. Always keep the stems (and root, if attached) for the stockpot. DID YOU KNOW: There are several varieties of parsley, but the most common are Italian flat-leaf and curly-leaf. Flat-leaf parsley is more strongly flavoured, but always use the freshest you can find regardless. Eschew tasteless dried parsley; the herb is so common, there’s no excuse not to use fresh.

Ellen Kelly is a regular contributor to City Palate.

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

drink this

Shelley Boettcher

WHITE WINES OF THE RHÔNE

When it comes to wine, I love to share my favourites, but I’m not particularly bossy. Drink what you love, I figure: red, white, bubbles, whatever. Except when it comes to white wines from France’s Rhône Valley. Buy them as often as you can, I say. Drink them and find more. And tell your friends about them, too. Rhône whites – wines made from grapes such as marsanne, roussanne and viognier – are complex, interesting and food-friendly. They also come with a hearty dose of history.

Grenache Blanc grapes

Wines, both red and white, have been made in the Rhône Valley for more than 2,000 years, since the times of the ancient Greeks and Romans. Then, when the Catholic popes were relocated from Rome to France in the 1300s, they did their bit to grow and strengthen wine culture in the valley. (The name Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in fact, means “the pope’s new house,” a reference to Pope Clement V and his move in 1309 to Avignon, one of the major cities in the Rhône Valley.) And what a valley it is. Located in southern France, the Rhône Valley is a large region – 183,000 acres – that breaks down into two subregions, the northern Rhône and the southern Rhône. Those sub-regions are then split into various smaller appellations, referred to in French as appellation d’origine controlée (AOC).

Marsanne grapes, © Christophe Grilhé

Although white wine can be made in most of the Rhône Valley, very little is produced there. More than 80 percent of Rhône wine is red; less than five percent is white, according to Larousse Wine: The World’s Greatest Vines, Estates and Regions. That’s why the Condrieu region’s wine is worth singling out. Viognier, a white wine grape, is the only grape that can legally be grown in Condrieu. No reds. Just white. Marsanne is another popular white wine grape in the Rhône Valley. Typically found in the northern Rhône, it’s mostly blended with other grapes, particularly roussanne. On its own, however, marsanne makes rich golden-coloured wines that often have spice and pear flavours.

Roussanne grapes, © Christophe Grilhé

As for roussanne, it’s rather temperamental. It ripens late, hates the wind, and is prone to mildew. But, at its best, roussanne is herbal, spicy and loaded with the fruity notes of apple, pear and peach. In blends, it gives white wine aging capability, aromatics and acidity. There are other white wine grapes in the Rhône Valley, too, including bourboulenc grenache blanc, picpoul, rolle (another name for vermentino), and ugni blanc. They may not be the stars of the show, but each has a role to play. Viogner grapes

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

Here’s a guide to some of the Rhône Valley’s best-known white wine grapes: Grenache Blanc – France’s fifth-most-planted white wine grape, it’s often blended with roussanne to add a hit of alcohol and flavour. Marsanne – Like grenache blanc, lovely marsanne often gets blended with roussanne. It adds spicy, pear and nutty notes to wines, as well as a boost of colour. Roussanne – Pronounced roos-ann, this grape is often blended with marsanne and is one of six white-wine grapes permitted in the Rhône appellation of Châteauneufdu-Pape, where, incidentally, it can also be blended into red wines. It gives herbal, floral notes to wine.

Are you looking for a deeper understanding of wine?

Viognier – Viognier often gets compared to chardonnay because they can both be used to make lush, full-bodied white wines. Still, viognier has star potential of its own, with fruity, floral notes and low acidity. It’s the only grape that can be grown legally in France’s Condrieu region.

Try one of these courses, originally designed for trade professionals. CO-OP WINE SPIRITS BEER IS PROUD TO OFFER

Give these wines a try... prices are approximate (shown L-R) Domaine Durieu 2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhône Valley, France, $45 From wine maker Vincent Durieu and his family-owned estate, this complex, floral white wine has peach and citrus notes, with just a hint of minerality. A blend of 80 percent roussanne, 15 percent grenache blanc and five percent clairette Xavier Vins 2011 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhône Valley, France, $40 Xavier Vignon – whose previous gigs include making champagne at Moet & Chandon – is one of the Rhône’s most respected wine makers. Mostly roussanne and clairette, this lovely white blend has about 20 percent grenache blanc; the rest is picpoul, bourboulenc and ugni blanc. Look for lemon, lime, fresh ginger and wet stone notes. M. Chapoutier 2011 Chante-Alouette Hermitage, Rhône Valley, France, $90 From Michel Chapoutier, one of France’s most famous wine makers, this 100 percent organic and biodynamically farmed marsanne comes from Hermitage in the Northern Rhône. There’s so much going on here – peach, Meyer lemon, tangerine, flowers. Enjoy it now, or put it in the cellar for a few years.

Wondering what to pair with your white wines from the Rhône Valley? Marsanne-roussanne blends pair beautifully with duck rillettes and all sorts of seafood: scallops, prawns, lobster. Try pairing a rich viognier with a butternut squash soup or roast chicken and a baguette. A lighter style of viognier will go well with mild curries, and either style will go well with pork. Or pick up some French cheeses, says Crystal McKenzie, proprietor of Peasant Cheese. She recently enjoyed a 2002 marsanne paired with a Crottin de Chavignol, a goat cheese from the Loire Valley. “It’s a really beautiful little 80-gram nugget of cheese,” she says. “When it’s young, it’s a little fruity, and when it ages, it gets a bit more nutty.” Or try a Laguiole – not the knives – the raw cow’s milk cheese from Auvergne, France. Or a wedge of St. Angel, “a beautiful triple cream out of the Rhône Valley,” says McKenzie. “It’s made from pasteurized cow’s milk and it’s really delicious.” Shelley Boettcher is a Calgary-based writer who holds her advanced WSET (Wine and Spirit Education Trust) certification. She likes to drink wine and travel and writes for a variety of Canadian publications.

WSET (Wine and Spirit Education Trust) Wine Appreciation Courses WINE AND SPIRIT EDUCATION TRUST - LEVEL 1 AWARD IN WINE Whether you’re a novice or experienced professional, the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Award in Wine is a fantastic course to increase your knowledge. Level 1 is a one-day course providing basic wine knowledge as well as insight into food and wine pairing. The course workbook is included and successful participants will receive the WSET Level 1 Certificate. Shawnessy: April 8, 9:30am-5:30pm • $349 WINE AND SPIRIT EDUCATION TRUST - LEVEL 2 AWARD IN WINE The WSET Level 2 Award in Wine is an all-encompassing course designed for novice wine enthusiasts who want to increase their knowledge, and as an industry standard for professionals. This three-day course covers all the major grape varieties, where they’re grown, and how to taste wine using the Systematic Approach to Tasting. The course workbook is included and successful participants will receive the WSET Level 2 Certificate. Oakridge: June 6 / 7 / 8, 9:30am-5:30pm • $799 WINE AND SPIRIT EDUCATION TRUST - LEVEL 3 AWARD IN WINES & SPIRITS The WSET Level 3 Award in Wines & Spirits is an advanced course designed to provide detailed analysis of the principal wines and spirits of the world. In this six day course students will discover and gain in-depth knowledge of wine production, global wine regions, spirit and liqueur production as well as fortified and sparkling wine. Students will also benefit from in-depth tastings where they will learn to identify product style and quality using the Systematic Approach to Tasting. The course textbook and study pack is included and successful participants will receive the WSET Level 3 Certificate.

TASTING

EVENTS

AREE THAI KITCHEN AND WINE Thailand may not be known for its wine, but its cuisine proves it certainly has a handle on the layered and complex. That’s why our in-house sommeliers have been asked to choose wines from around the world to complement Chef Aree’s multi-course Thai offerings. Join us for this delightfully intriguing wine pairing experience. Crowfoot: March 12, 7-9pm • $75 Oakridge: March 27, 7-9pm • $75

Tasting Centre Locations Beddington 8220 Centre Street NE Crowfoot

39 Crowfoot Way NW

Oakridge

2570 Southland Drive SW

Shawnessy 80, 250 Shawville Blvd SE

SCOTCH ON A SUNDAY - SCOTCH WHISKY 101 The beauty and complexity of Scotch are often best enjoyed while sitting back and sipping a nice dram. For this event, we will taste through a flight of delicious Scotch from across the diverse regions of Scotland. You can expect everything from smooth Speyside malt to smoky Islay malt and everything in between. Shawnessy: April 19, 3-5pm • $65 Crowfoot: April 26, 3-5pm • $65 WINE-DOWN WEDNESDAYS - VALUE WINES UNDER $20 In this mid-week event, we will lead you through a flight of wines that over-deliver and don’t break the bank. Our sommelier will select hidden gems that bring true value at an unbeatable price. Let us help you find your next go-to wine. Oakridge: April 22, 7-9pm • $15 Beddington: April 29, 7-9pm • $15 Shawnessy: May 13, 7-9pm • $15 Crowfoot: May 27, 7-9pm • $15 For tickets or to view more great tasting events visit: coopwinespiritsbeer.com/events

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

get this ra-ra… ra, ra, ra – a ramen romance

r e s ta u r a n t & l o u n g e

The world has fallen in love with ramen – those ubiquitous Japanese noodles – and even Lady Gaga would have to admit it’s not a bad romance. This Ramen Spoon + Fork designed by Masami Takahashi (named Japan’s most innovative man for 2014) has a cool quotient that would please even Gaga, the queen of avant-garde style. New York’s MoMA – Museum of Modern Art – selected it as part of its commitment to promote great design. If you’re a frequent noodler, this utensil will save the environmental cost of disposable chopsticks and spoons and ease the ladling and twisting of your noodles. Love of sipping and slurping can lead you to be a tourist in your own town. Visit the Glenbow, pick up your fancy ramen “spork” and travel to Shiki Menya Ramen Restaurant in Bridgeland. They make their own noodles in-house and close the doors when they sell out. Go early so you don’t miss out. MoMA Ramen Spoon + Fork, $22.50, The Glenbow Museum Gift Shop

give (chick) peas a chance

Contemporary French

Fine dining in downtown Calgary

Lunch: Monday - Friday • 11:30Am-2:00PM Dinner: Monday - Saturday • 4:30PM-10:00PM Closed Sunday Three Course Business Lunch $25 Monday – Friday

403 265 9595 • 107 Eighth Avenue SW www.thebelvedere.ca

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

These roasted chickpeas are as smart a snack as the chicks that came up with the idea – Elysia and Natasha Vandenhurk of the Three Farmers company in Saskatchewan. They’re widely known for putting camelina oil on Canada’s tables and the chickpeas aren’t just a distraction, but part of these conscientious farmers’ efforts towards sustainability. They plant the chickpeas beside their flax crops in a method known as intercropping. It cuts down on weeds and diseases and each crop adds nutrients to the soil that the other needs. So far, they’re roasting up two flavours – barbecue and balsamic and cracked pepper. The snack’s high-protein, high-fiber, gluten-free deliciousness has made them an overnight success and you can look forward to a lime and pepper sequel to their evolving farm-to-fork success story. Three Farmers Roasted Chickpeas, $4.50/120g, Bite Groceteria

home, home on the range… Finally a bit of bison that can roam with you at home, home on the range or wherever you may wander. This delicately shaved and mildly smoked buffalo meat is made by Valbella Gourmet Foods, Canmore. It shows off the skills of the von Rotz family of Swiss-trained charcuterie makers who started the business in 1978. Try the rest of their regional delicacies, including venison and wild boar pâtés, bundnerfleisch, elk prosala, and venison salametti. Even if your palate doesn’t know what all those things are, your taste buds will be happy you made the introduction. Valbella Smoked Buffalo, $6.80/100g, Valbella Gourmet Foods Delicatessen, Canmore

Karen Anderson

MUST-HAVE KITCHEN STUFF

fresh flours Highwood Crossing’s certified organic non-GMO unbleached all-purpose flour is freshly milled from Alberta-grown organic hard red spring wheat. Owners Tony and Penny Marshall say that they mill about 10 tons each month and that means freshness for local-loving bakers. The flour is enriched with iron, riboflavin, vitamin D and niacin and is the same high-protein flour that professional bakers, like Sidewalk Citizen’s Aviv Fried, use to produce their welltextured breads. The flavour and rising ability are superior to bleached flour (which has chemicals added to whiten it), and the gluten content makes for springier dough. Check out the rye, whole wheat and gluten-free varieties, and find an inspiring bouquet of fresh flour recipes at highwoodcrossing.com. Highwood Crossing organic unbleached all-purpose flour, $13.50/2kg, Sunnyside Natural Market

fish, forage and feast Diamond Willow Artisan Retreat in Turner Valley is a great place for a food lover’s stay-cation. You can get in touch with the bounty of Alberta’s food scene via activities that include foraging with renowned naturalist Julie Walker of Full-Circle Adventures, fly-fishing lessons with McLennan Fly Fishing and easy access to Saturday mornings at The Millarville Farmers’ Market. Owners Doug and Pat Lothrop whip up big breakfasts in their sun-drenched kitchen and can direct you to the renowned cuisine of The Cowboy Trail including The Longview Steakhouse, Marv’s Classic Soda Shop, Corner House Café or visiting The Saskatoon Farm, Kayben Farm, Chinook Honey and the cool little towns of Okotoks, High River, Nanton, Black Diamond and Turner Valley. This is a hidden gem and a found feast. Diamond Willow Artisan Retreat, starting at $130/night, Turner Valley, diamondwillowartisanretreat.com

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CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

one ingredient

Julie Van Rosendaal

TRUFFLES

It’s fascinating that perhaps the most humble-looking edible thing in the world is also one of the most expensive – literally worth its weight in gold. The fruiting body of a subterranean fungus, a single truffle can sell for as much as $417,200 (the selling price of a 2 lb. truffle in 2010, according to Sotheby’s in New York). Truffles are often discovered by way of a female pig’s natural attraction to a compound within the truffle, which is similar to pheromones in boar saliva.

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The knobby fungi grow, in shades of grey to black, a few inches to a foot underground in a symbiotic relationship with the roots of hazel and oak trees, making them difficult to cultivate. French gourmand Brillat-Savarin, who called truffles “diamonds of the kitchen,” lamented this fact – “the most learned men have sought to ascertain the secret, and fancied they discovered the seed. Their promises, however, were vain, and no planting was ever followed by a harvest. This perhaps is all right, for as one of the great values of truffles is their dearness, perhaps they would be less highly esteemed if they were cheaper.”

Attempts in France in the 19th century were met with some success, although initial groves were quashed by industrialism and a couple of world wars. But there has been a resurgence of cultivators in recent years, and today, BC farmer Bill Stewart is the first to harvest black Périgord truffles in Canada.

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Although they come in more varieties, here they’re generally categorized as black or white. The black or Périgord truffle was exclusive to southern Europe and is unearthed primarily in France, while white truffles are even more rare and valuable, only found in select areas of Italy for about three months of the year. If you don’t have wealthy friends who host dinner parties just so they can dramatically shave fresh truffle over your food, your options may be limited to truffle oil, honey or salt, all more affordable vehicles that tame a truffle’s potency. Classic pairings include pasta and eggs; try seasoning veggies, fish or steak with truffle salt, or using it on popcorn for a fancy nibble. Truffle oil can be dribbled (sparingly) over anything from fries to risotto to creamy soups, and truffle honey is fantastic in a cocktail or vinaigrette, drizzled over tangy blue cheese or salty parmesan, or on a pizza made with pears and Brie. You can find fresh truffles, and if not, truffle slices in jars with oil, plus salt, honey and oil at Fifth Element Fine Foods at the Crossroads Farmers’ Market. The fresh truffle photos above are from fifthelementfinefoods.com. Check for seasonal availablity.

Pear, Caramelized Onion and Brie Flatbread with Truffle Honey A drizzle of truffle-infused honey over gooey cheese and sweet-tart pears makes for a perfect pizza. Serve it topped with a handful of peppery arugula, or in thin wedges for a party. Dough: 1 t. honey (or truffle honey) 1 pkg. (or 2 t.) active dry yeast 2-1/2 to 3 c. all-purpose flour 2 T. extra-virgin olive oil 1 t. salt extra-virgin olive oil, for cooking 1 large onion, halved and thinly sliced 1 ripe but firm pear, thinly sliced 4 oz. Brie, sliced

Peppered Steak with Truffle Butter There are few dishes as indulgent as a nicely seared steak topped with truffles and butter; it’s quick to prepare, too. If you’re having a dinner party, start the steaks as your guests take their seats around the table. If you have any extra truffle, add them to (or shave them over) mashed potatoes or a rich gratin. canola oil, for cooking 4 small grilling steaks of your choice (such as strip loin, tenderloin or rib eye) salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 T. butter

recipe photos by Julie Van Rosendaal

1 small fresh truffle or jarred truffle slices

Set a medium cast-iron skillet over high heat and add a small drizzle of oil. Pat the steaks dry with paper towels and season on both sides with salt and pepper. When the pan is hot, but not smoking, place the steaks in the pan, without crowding, and leave for 3-4 minutes – don’t fiddle with them or move them until they develop a nice bottom crust. Flip and cook for 2-3 minutes on the other side for medium-rare, then transfer to a plate. Add the butter to the hot pan and remove from the heat. Swirl around the pan, loosening any browned bits on the bottom, then shave the truffle into the butter for the last few seconds before pouring over the steaks. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

salt and freshly ground black pepper extra-virgin olive oil truffle honey

Put 1 c. warm water into a large bowl, stir in the honey and sprinkle the yeast overtop; let stand for 5 minutes, until it gets foamy. (If it doesn’t, toss it out and buy fresh yeast!)

To make a better bowl of soup, we used a little fresh thinking.

Add 2-1/2 c. all-purpose flour, the olive oil and salt and stir until you have a shaggy dough. Let rest for 20 minutes, then knead until smooth and elastic, adding more flour if you need it – the dough should be tacky, but not too sticky. Place the dough in an oiled bowl and turn to coat all over. Cover with a tea towel and set aside in a warm place for about an hour, until doubled in bulk. (Alternatively, let it rise more slowly in the refrigerator, for up to 8 hours.) Meanwhile, heat a generous drizzle of oil in a medium skillet set over medium-high heat and sauté the onion for 5 minutes, or until soft and turning golden. Preheat the oven to 450°F.

only fresh e delicious homestyle meals, If you’re setting out to prepar uldn’t be wo ce, tan ins do. Our soups, for high-quality ingredients will e result? Th ’t. don we So ts. ed ingredien best. the same if we used prepackag g been considered Calgar y’s Our wor wonton soup has lon 201 early 5). Edmonton Trail location (open Taste for yourself and visit our new

Divide the dough in half and roll or stretch each into a 9-inch circle or oval. Place each on a parchment-lined or floured baking sheet and top with half the caramelized onions, half the pear slices and half the Brie. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Bake for 15-20 minutes, until deep golden. Let rest for a few minutes, then drizzle with the truffle honey before slicing. Makes 2 pizzas; serves 12 to 16.

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continued on page 18 CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

one ingredient TRUFFLES

brazilian barbecue

continued from page 17

HAIL TO THE KING STARTS IN MARCH

Tuesdays & Wednesdays

Pasta Carbonara with Eggs ď ° and Truffles Because eggs are so porous, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll absorb the flavour of a truffle if you store them alongside; cook them gently to maintain their rich aroma. Because truffles also pair well with pasta, tossing truffle-infused eggs with pasta is a good idea. 3/4 lb. (375 g) spaghetti 2 T. butter 4-6 slices bacon or pancetta, chopped 2 large eggs (stored alongside a fresh truffle, if possible) 1/2 c. freshly grated parmesan or pecorino cheese

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CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

freshly ground black pepper thinly shaved fresh truffle, or jarred truffle slices, for garnish

Cook the spaghetti according to the package directions, or until al dente. Drain, reserving a cupful of the starchy pasta water. In a large, heavy skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the bacon or pancetta and cook until crisp. Meanwhile, stir the eggs and cheese together in a small bowl with a fork. Turn off the heat under the skillet, add the drained pasta (it will splatter a bit) and gently toss with tongs. Add the eggs and cheese and a splash of the pasta water and toss until you have a creamy, thickened sauce. (If you like a drier carbonara, omit the water or use less if you want the sauce more eggy than creamy.) Season with freshly ground pepper. Pile into bowls and top with thinly shaved truffle. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

Mushroom Risotto with Parmesan and Truffle Oil Creamy risotto makes a perfect vehicle for truffle oil, and earthy mushrooms complement their fungal cousins.

Food has never been this fun.

2 T. canola or olive oil 1/4 c. butter, divided 1 small onion or 2 shallots, finely chopped 1 c. assorted fresh mushrooms, sliced or roughly chopped 2 t. chopped fresh rosemary or thyme 1-1/2 c. arborio rice 1/2 c. dry white wine (optional) 5-6 c. chicken stock, warmed 1/2 c. freshly grated parmesan cheese salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste 2 t. truffle oil, or to taste

Set a medium saucepan over medium-high heat and add the oil and half the butter. When the foaming subsides, add the onion and cook for 3-4 minutes, until soft. Add the mushrooms and rosemary or thyme and cook, stirring often, until the mushrooms soften, the excess moisture cooks off and the mushrooms begin to brown. Add the rice and stir for a minute to coat the grains with some of the oil. Continue to stir the rice for a minute or two. Add the wine and cook until it evaporates. Add the stock a ladleful at a time (about half a cup), cooking until the rice absorbs the stock and your spoon leaves a trail on the bottom of the pan. Continue adding stock, stirring often (it doesn’t have to be constant), until all the stock is used and the rice grains are tender, but still slightly firm in the middle. Finish with the remaining butter and a good grating of parmesan cheese. Season with salt and pepper, if needed, and serve immediately, topped with a drizzle of truffle oil and extra cheese. Serves 4 to 6. 

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CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

feeding people

Laura Di Lembo

ITERATIONS OF HUMMUS

Hummus, b’ummus, tzatzummus, muffalummus, figummus... are you following this? I’m speaking a dining dialect using the lingo of a hummus-crazed sub-culture that is slavishly devoted to all of its incarnations. Hummus has a cult following in certain circles, those circles being New York City, the entire Middle East and quite possibly your very own kitchen. In keeping with its star status, hummus has been reinventing itself to keep our attention.

A Calgary Tradition Since 1921. All in Good Taste.

Before this current craze, hummus was one classic food: mashed up chickpeas with plenty of lemon juice, a dollop of tahini, a bit of crushed garlic, a hint of cumin, a dash of cayenne pepper, a drizzle of olive oil, and some salt and pepper. The current trend is to buzz it up in a food processor. Everybody’s happy dipping into the stuff with celery sticks, pita chips and, later, when the guests leave, fingers. My own hummus inspiration arrived by way of fresh chickpeas, also known as garbanzo beans. They’re available in Calgary year-round at Basha International Foods* and Fruiticana*. They make for the prettiest, most unctuous hummus, tinted a gentle green and with a clean, sweet, pea-like flavour. Fresh chickpeas cook up quickly. I decide to peel them, revealing an inner bean of velvety softness. I keep the cooking liquid, which works well to thin the puréed paste into a smooth mass. I use the classic flavour profile, but add a handful of fresh cilantro to further enhance the green. It looks gorgeous. The taste defies description, except to say it tastes “green,” which means there is a freshness that surpasses what we get from cans. There’s a direct hit of chick pea essence, uninterrupted by preservatives. It’s hummus on steroids, more of itself than ever before. I’m naming it Frummus.

Frummus, or Fresh Chickpea Hummus 8 c. fresh chickpeas, yielding 2 c. shelled chickpeas (or 1 15-oz. can chickpeas, drained and rinsed)

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CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

Shell the chickpeas. Place them in a mediumsized pot with the bay leaf and cover with plenty of water. No salt. Cook until very tender, about 20-25 minutes. Drain, reserving about 1 c. of the cooking liquid. Discard the bay leaf. You may remove the skin of the chickpeas for a smoother end result. If you like some fibrous texture to your hummus, keep the skins on. In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, pulse the chickpeas with the remaining ingredients, except for the olive oil, until a smooth paste forms. Add the cooking water, a spoonful at a time, until the desired consistency is reached. If using canned chickpeas, you may add filtered water to thin the hummus if needed. Taste for seasoning and adjust to your liking. Serve the hummus in a pretty bowl, anointed with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and a pinch of paprika. Serves 4 to 6.

The basic version of hummus is easily prepared for instant spreading or scooping. Other times, though, are opportunities to play with possibilities. Thanks to the food-crazed website seriouseats.com for this enlightened inspiration. Jump in, learn the vocabulary and start experimenting!

Taylor Fladgate 1965

Single Harvest Port

B’UMMUS – beets + hummus. This is what happens when a mad genius purées cooked beets with hummus and adds some fiery harissa. TZATZUMMUS is a hybrid of tzatziki and hummus, with small cubes of cucumber tucked in with Greek style yogurt, fresh chopped dill, minced garlic and lemon juice. MUFFALUMMUS is what hummus would be if it came from New Orleans, resplendent with capers, olives, pickled pimentos and red wine vinegar. FIGUMMUS – finely chop a few dried figs and cover them with a bit of boiling water to soften them. Drain the figs and stir them with honey and toasted pine nuts. Stir the mixture into hummus along with a good pinch of smoked paprika for the pleasurable duality of sweet and smoky flavours.

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The chickpea-centric combos continue to delight. CHUMMUS, chipotle lime hummus with canned chipotle chiles, cilantro and lime juice, a literal hot mess. SPUMMUS, a spinach and feta hummus of cooked baby spinach patted dry and finely chopped. Stir into your hummus with crumbled feta, lemon juice and zest, and extra-virgin olive oil. TUNNUS is time to indulge in Italian canned tuna in olive oil flaked into your hummus with chopped olives, parsley, lemon juice and some oil from the tuna tin. Harissa and mint hummus is a creative riff on an old coupling, harissa and chopped mint, conjoined with hummus. We’ll call it HARUMMUS. ARTICHUMMUS combines an assortment of your freshest chopped herbs and chopped marinated artichoke hearts with hummus. ZATARUMMUS features za’atar, a Middle Eastern spice blend of dried thyme leaves, toasted sesame seeds and ground sumac, which contributes a tangy tartness. Middle Eastern grocers carry za’atar and sumac as does Silk Road Spice Merchant in Inglewood.

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feeding people ITERATIONS OF HUMMUS continued from page 21

Pomegrummus Salad, or Chickpea and Pomegranate Salad

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CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

8 c. fresh chickpeas, yielding 2 cups shelled chickpeas (or 1 15-oz. can chickpeas, drained and rinsed) 2 celery stalks, diced

I used fresh chickpeas to make a salad I dubbed Pomegrummus. It’s a deconstructed hummus – all the elements are present in different configurations. The impetus behind this dish was to combine bright green chickpeas and ruby pomegranate seeds, resulting in bursts of juicy fruit and pops of legumes in a marriage founded on traditional Middle Eastern flavours. (Find pomegranates at Basha International Foods* and Fruiticana*, but phone first. They’re also usually available at the Superstores.)

1/2 c. diced red onion

I kept the cumin, lemon juice, garlic and tahini and included the astringent sparkle of pomegranate molasses in the dressing, which is tangy and bright, smooth and creamy, paying homage to the flavour profiles of Mediterranean dining. A sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds bespoke tahini, a longtime partner to chickpeas. Chiles emboldened the salad with a surprise hit of pleasant heat and bite; we invited preserved lemons to the party since they are cousins to the citrus juice present in the dressing. You can easily make your own using the recipe in “6 Quick Ways with Lemons” on page 50, or find them at Middle Eastern groceries and specialty food stores. Don’t skin the fresh chickpeas for this salad, as the skins protect the tender innards from falling apart.

1/2 t. ground cumin

1 pomegranate, seeded (about 1 c. seeds) 1 c. fresh mint leaves, stems removed, coarsely chopped 1/4 c. sesame seeds, lightly toasted and cooled 2 Thai green chiles, stemmed and sliced into thin rounds (optional, but recommended) 2 preserved lemons, rind only, chopped fine

Dressing: zest and juice of 1 lemon 3 large garlic cloves, minced 1-1/2 T. tahini paste (stir well first) 2 T. pomegranate molasses 1 t. Dijon mustard 1/2 t. Aleppo pepper (available at Middle Eastern grocers and Silk Road Spice Merchant in Inglewood) salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

If using fresh shelled chickpeas, cook in plenty of unsalted water until tender, about 12-15 minutes. Drain and set aside to cool. In a mediumsized mixing bowl, combine chickpeas, celery, onion, pomegranate seeds, mint, sesame seeds, chiles and preserved lemons. In a small mixing bowl combine all the dressing ingredients and whisk well. Pour dressing over salad ingredients and gently toss to coat ingredients evenly. Taste for seasoning and serve. You can cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 2 hours before serving. Serves 4 to 6. 

Lest you think that the canned chickpea has been ignored or disrespected, rest assured that it has its role too. Not only is it a worthy substitute in the hummus and salad recipes, it also stands proudly when roasted until hot and crispy. For a truly memorable beer snack, or as a garnish to a green salad, try tossing chickpeas in the oven with a splash of oil and some spice.

After the hummus is made, the pomegrummus salad done and the chickpeas are roasted, there is yet another realm to explore while in possession of fresh chickpeas – soup. I used fresh chickpeas, but you don’t have to. Canned chickpeas would be equally welcome in this comforting potage that pairs a great bean soup with the robust charms of a kale smoothie.

Roasted Spiced Chickpeas

Chickpea and Kale Soup

Adapted from a Bobby Flay recipe.

Adapted from a Lidia Bastianich recipe.

1 15-oz. can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

2 T. extra-virgin olive oil

1 T. canola oil

1 large carrot, peeled and diced

2 large pinches of kosher salt

1 celery stalk, diced

1/2 t. each ground cinnamon and smoked paprika

1/2 large sweet onion, diced, about 1 c.

1/4 t. cayenne pepper

3 Thai green chiles, stems removed, sliced into thin rings

1 T. liquid honey

zest and juice of 1 lemon (reserve the juice)

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Spread the chickpeas out on paper towels to dry. In a medium bowl, combine the chickpeas, oil and salt and stir to coat. Place the chickpeas on a baking sheet in an even layer and roast for 20 minutes. Put the bowl aside, no need to wash it yet. Shake the pan in the oven carefully and roast chickpeas for another 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and let chickpeas cool for a moment.

10 garlic cloves, minced

Stir together the cinnamon, smoked paprika, cayenne pepper and honey in the reserved bowl then add the roasted chickpeas and toss to coat. Return the chickpeas to the baking sheet and continue roasting until golden brown and crispy, about 10 minutes longer. Serve warm from the oven. Makes 2 cups. 

1 bunch kale

8 c. fresh chickpeas with shells to yield 2 c. shelled, or 1 15-oz. can of chickpeas, drained and rinsed 6 c. water or chicken broth 2 bay leaves 3 long dashes of Tabasco sauce large pinch of dried chile flakes 1 t. kosher salt or to taste freshly ground black pepper to taste grated Romano cheese

Heat the oil in a soup pot and sauté the carrot, celery and onion, stirring, until soft, about 10 minutes. Add lemon zest, chiles and garlic and cook, stirring, just until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add chickpeas, water or broth, bay leaves, Tabasco sauce and chile flakes. Simmer for 30 minutes. If using fresh chickpeas, they should be tender. Remove bay leaves. Wash the kale, remove centre ribs and put the leaves in a food processor. Carefully ladle 2 cups of the soup into the food processor with the kale and pulse until puréed. Return the purée to the soup pot and cook for another 10 minutes. Add the reserved lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Serve with grated Romano cheese sprinkled on top. Serves 6 to 8. 

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Chickpeas work exquisitely in dips, salads and soups, and each dish is an opportunity to express yourself. You are at the helm of this ship – go on a voyage, speak a new language. *Basha International Foods, 2717 Sunridge Way NE, 403-280-6797 *Fruiticana, 5075 Falconridge Blvd. NE, 403-590-1611 Laura Di Lembo thanks her friend Chitra for steering her to the fresh chickpeas at Fruiticana.

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what’s cooking online?

Kate Zimmerman

BLOGS AND LINKS THAT LURE YOUR IMAGINATION OFF THE COUCH

Super-adventurous travelers want to fly by the seat of their pants, arriving at the desired spot with scant background information but open to every experience. The stodgier travellers among us (cough) arm themselves with copious intel, so they can choose their essential sites, events and activities ahead of departure. That way, they reason, they won’t waste time after arrival trying to make choices and orchestrate last-minute arrangements, often in a foreign language. Most of us do a little of both these things; the trick is to not be so married to a plan that you miss more exciting options. The trouble with devoutly following official guidebooks is that they won’t get you much beyond the mainstream. And after all, it’s usually the unpredictable experiences – like the one where a Brooklyn pizzeria owner confided personal stories about his pal, Frank Sinatra, to my daughter – that prove most memorable. Unlike many guidebooks, whose tips may be predictable but stale, good travel blogs have their fingers on the pulse. The bad thing about blogs – besides heinously unreadable light print on pale backgrounds – is that you can’t take the writer’s word for everything. As free agents, they’re under no compulsion to be accurate, so their info should be double-checked. Also be aware that some bloggers are paid by tourism commissions and other beneficiaries of your hard-earned travel dollar, so the fact that they’ve raved about your destination on their Twitter feed may just be paid advertising masquerading as journalism. Caveat emptor.

 Of course, the travel blogs you’ll favour depend on whether you’re vaguely

browsing the world for ideas or zeroing in on a particular place or activity. I spend a lot more time dreaming about travel than I do actually travelling, so I’m in the market for dream merchants. Thus, I fell pretty hard for been-seen.com, whose four design-savvy team members keep an eye out for extraordinary places to stay all over the world. How about renting a 200-year-old cone-shaped trullo (traditional Apulian stone hut) in Puglia, Italy, or popping into the Museum of Innocence in Istanbul, which was conceived, along with the novel of the same name, by Turkish author Orhan Pamuk? I would never have considered sleeping in a treehouse in Germany or in an inflatable igloo called a BubbleTree in France until I’d spent a little time with been-seen. I still can’t afford ’em, sadly, but thanks to these bloggers’ visual feasts, at least I now know what I’m missing.

 Food-centric fantasists will also have their imaginations ignited by Paris-

based Californian bloggers Adrian and Danielle Rubi-Dentzel, the powers behind The Trail of Crumbs, thetrailofcrumbs.com. Their expertise apparently qualified them to scout the locations for Anthony Bourdain’s Paris episode of his TV series, The Layover. Like most blogs, T.T.o.C. could use a copy editor, but the pair certainly is well-travelled, passionate and knowledgeable about food. And the Rubi-Dentzels’ photos are delicious. Well worth a dip.

 Far less salt-of-the-earth is we-heart.com, a hard-core trend report about styl-

ish hotels, hot chefs, and “it” artists, aimed at those less interested in relaxing travel than in boldly pursuing the cutting edge. Fair enough – we all have our passions. I’m into wandering around farmers’ markets and art galleries and admiring stunning vistas; you may be more interested in outrageous shoes or in having your sandwiches arrive by parachute at Melbourne’s Jafflechutes. For curated chic, we-heart delivers.

 Way over on the unpretentious, practical end of things, Calgarian Rick

McCharles, a friend of mine, writes and shares photos on the popular blog, besthike.com. It chronicles his hikes in more than 40 countries worldwide and provides valuable insights into completing them safely, enjoyably and efficiently. An internationally renowned gymnastics coach, McCharles has hiked every continent except Antarctica. Number one on his Top Ten list is B.C.’s West Coast Trail; number 10 is the Overland Track in Tasmania. Readers write in with their own opinions and helpful suggestions. If hiking is a major source of holiday joy for you, consult besthike.

 There are all kinds of Canuck bloggers out there, as I discovered when

I stumbled onto this link: flightnetwork.com/blog/top-100-canadian-travel-blogs. Adventure travel, nerdy travel, travel with young kids – every possibility seems to be explored on this massive list.

 I was appropriately impressed by Calgary’s Kim Gray and Jennifer Twyman’s

superb, multiple award-winning blog, Toque & Canoe, toqueandcanoe.com. It’s great looking, brings in other voices to keep the writing fresh and clever, and focuses largely on Canada. If you need indisputable proof that this country rocks, Toque & Canoe is it. Kate Zimmerman’s last trips were to Baku, Azerbaijan, which hosts the first European Games this June, and Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, which has good food and pelicans.

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CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

Fresh Produce

Antipasti

In-store Bakery

well matched

linguinegreen olives Specialty Foods Olive Oils Balsamics Catering

garlic sardines parsley lemon capers

Pasta with Sardines Sardines aren’t treated with enough respect! Try this dish and you’ll become a fan – it’s full of bold, lusty flavours, quick to make and inexpensive – what more could you ask from a recipe? Buy good quality canned sardines for this pasta. 1/2 lb. linguine pasta 1 T. salt 1 can sardines (Brunswick brand is good) 3 T. olive oil

Olives Deli Meats &Cheeses Gift Baskets

1 garlic clove, thinly sliced 1/3 c. green olives, pitted and chopped 1 T. capers 1/4 t. Sriracha hot sauce, or to taste generous grindings of black pepper handful Italian parsley, chopped juice of 1/2 lemon

Hot &Cold Lunches

Cappuccino Dessert Bar Pair this dish with:

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CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

Cook pasta to desired doneness in generously salted (1 T.) water. Drain, saving a cup of the cooking water for use to finish. Drain sardines and set aside. Place oil in large sauté pan (large enough to hold pasta). Heat and add garlic, sautéing just until the garlic is golden. Add the drained sardines and mash roughly with a wooden spoon. Add the olives, capers, Sriracha, and pepper. Stir well to incorporate, then add the cooked pasta and toss. Add the parsley and lemon juice and toss, then add some pasta water if you prefer a looser pasta. Taste and adjust seasonings as desired. Serves 4-6.

Fernando de Castilla (Fino En Rama, Spain) $25 Fino en Rama is a fino sherry that has been drawn directly from the barrel to ensure freshness. This is important with fino sherry because it will start to deteriorate once it has been bottled. This is the closest we get to experiencing fresh sherry without going to Jerez. The delicate fruit, slight green olive character and fresh acidity perfectly complement the character of the pasta with its sardines, capers and olives. A happy marriage. Monte da Ravasqueira (Rayo, Portugal) $16 The Portuguese are into canned sardines, as anyone who has visited Setubal can attest, so a Portuguese red is a good match. The Monte da Ravasqueira comes from Alentejo, just to the south of Setubal. A blend of aragonez, trincadeira and touriga nacional, it is medium bodied with low tannins and light berry flavours. These characteristics make for a wine that matches well with the pasta. No battle for supremacy here, just an affable partnership.

recipes by Pam Fortier, Decadent Desserts, wine pairings by David Bransby-Williams, Wine Inkorporated

MADE-IN-HEAVEN FOOD AND WINE PAIRINGS

Fine Wines

lamb garlicpotatoes yogurt onion

lemon

oregano

Lamb Meatballs and Roasted Potato Wedges with Yogurt Sauce Serve with a salad with a zingy, mustardy vinaigrette. The yogurt sauce is delicious drizzled on both the lamb and the potatoes. It keeps really well, so I usually make a double batch and keep it in the fridge for other saucing possibilities! Roasted Potatoes:

Lamb Meatballs:

Preheat oven to 350°F. Cut 4 medium (unpeeled) potatoes into wedges. Place on a baking sheet, and toss with olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast until crispy and golden, turning occasionally, approximately 40 minutes.

1/2 c. bread crumbs

Yogurt Sauce: 2 c. full-fat plain yogurt 1 garlic clove, minced 1/2 t. salt and pepper 1 t. Sriracha hot sauce 2 t. lemon juice, or more to taste

Combine all the ingredients in a medium sized mixing bowl. Set aside for at least one hour.

Metrovino... Bringing Wine to Life

whole milk 1 lb. ground lamb 1/2 onion, minced 2 garlic cloves, minced

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1 egg 1/2 t. Sriracha hot sauce 1/2 t. dried oregano salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 375°F. Place the bread crumbs in a bowl, barely cover with the whole milk, and set aside to soak. Add the remaining ingredients to a large mixing bowl, gently squeeze the soaked bread crumbs and add to the bowl. Mix just until combined. Using a 2-inch ice cream scoop, shape into balls and place in an 8x10-inch baking dish. Bake for about 1/2 hour, or until done. Serves 2 to 4 people, depending on appetites.

Pair this dish with:

With a lot going on in this dish, a bold red wine is required. Foppiano Lot 96 Petite Sirah (California) $23 Founded in Sonoma in 1896, this winery is a rare survivor of prohibition and still family run. Specialists in petite sirah, in this classic example dark berry fruits abound with a hint of earthiness in the finish – a wine made for lamb. Feudi di San Gregorio (Campania, Italy) $31 Another classic lamb match is the aglianico rubrato grape from southern Italy. While a little more restrained than petite sirah, it displays dark berry flavours, coupled with a spiciness that complements the flavours of the lamb. This winery captures the very essence of the grape.

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

the sunday project

with Tilly Sanchez-Turri

SPANISH CHURROS CON CHOCOLATE

WINEMAKER'S DINNER AND AUCTION

When remembering growing up in Sevilla, my father would often tell us about the alluring scent of churros that would fill the streets each morning. For most Spaniards, eating churros for breakfast is as natural as a Canadian eating a bowl of cereal. No corner offered refuge and the scent would follow Papa until he gave in. He loved to dip them in thick chocolate while he watched them being made – long hypnotic swirls of dough hitting the oil and sizzling to life. While most Spaniards don’t make them at home, my father would – on special occasions – along with other sweet delicacies that reminded him of home. This is my take on his recipe. I love it because he was able to relive memories of his youth each time he made them, and in doing so, show us how sweet it can be to remember… and taste life twice.

CRAFT BEER FEST

Papa’s Churros

Papa’s Chocolate

Ingredients:

Solid dark chocolate – not cocoa – yields the best results. We always made the chocolate first and kept it on low heat, so it was ready when the churros were done!

ART & WINE IN PERFECT HARMONY WINE AND BRUNELLO FEST March 3 | Tickets – $40 Willow Park Wines & Spirits

LA CHAUMIÈRE LUNCHEON March 10 | Tickets – $100 La Chaumière Restaurant

March 14 | Tickets – $200 Hotel Arts

March 19 | Tickets – $40 Willow Park Wines & Spirits

HIGH TEA

1 c. water 1 t. sea salt 1 T. vanilla extract

Ingredients:

2 t. olive oil

2 c. 2% milk

1-1/2 t. baking powder

1 c. whipping cream

WHISKY FEST

1-3/4 c. unbleached all-purpose flour

2 t. brown sugar

March 26 | Tickets – $40 Willow Park Wines & Spirits

8 c. (2 L) sunflower oil for frying

6 oz. dark chocolate, finely chopped

1/2 c. white sugar mixed with 2 t. cinnamon for dusting/rolling churros

1/4 t. kosher salt

Preparation:

1 t. instant espresso powder (optional)

Bring the water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Remove from heat.

Preparation:

Add salt, vanilla and olive oil. Stir and then add the baking powder. NOTE: It will froth.

Warm the milk, cream and sugar in a saucepan over medium heat and bring to a simmer.

Add flour and mix well until you have a warm, sticky dough. Let it rest while you heat the oil in a wok or heavy-bottomed stockpot.

When the milk begins to bubble around the edges, reduce the heat to low and stir in the chopped chocolate and salt and whisk until smooth. The salt is vital as it “wakes up” the chocolate.

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Fill a piping bag or cookie press with a star tip with the dough – just before the oil begins to smoke a bit. Try pressing it through to ensure the dough is soft enough to pass through without too much strain but still holds its shape. Press the dough into 6” sticks, curves or teardrop shapes. Be as consistent as you can with the size of the churros. Add just 4 or 6 at a time to the oil so there’s room for them to cook evenly. Too many at once can cause the temperature of the oil to drop and the dough will absorb more oil. Flip or roll the churros once golden and allow the other side to brown.

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CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

Remove the churros from the oil when both sides are cooked and roll in cinnamon sugar or dust with icing sugar. Serve with a cup of Papa’s chocolate and enjoy! Serves 4.

1 t. cornstarch (optional)

Whisk the mixture until the chocolate has completely melted. As the chocolate mixture cools slightly on lower heat, it will thicken slightly on its own. If you decide to add the espresso for a mocha flavour or cornstarch to give it more body, mix them with a bit of milk first before adding them. Whisk the chocolate frequently to keep it from burning until the churros are ready. Serves 4.

THE WEDDING PAVILLION WEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;VE GONE PUBLIC

1. Churro ingredients.

2. Added baking powder to froth.

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3. Churro dough.

5. Piping churros from a cookie press.

4. Piping churros.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time again to open our doors to the 10 th annual winter brunch. Experience the opportunity to enjoy a culinary experience without the wedding ritual.

6. Churros cooking.

BRUNCH BUFFET HIGHLIGHTS:

Apricot-stuffed French toast, salmon eggs benedict, black pepper and brown sugar bacon, seafood, hot fresh sticky buns, in-house crafted desserts, and the most-applauded carved beef. Reservations required. Please call 403.288.9558 Located at 10817 West Valley Road SW

We look forward to seeing you and your family.

7. Cooked churros.

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03'%00= 7396')( -2+6)(-)287 +098)2 *6))

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8. Chocolate ready to drink.

9. Churros ready to eat.

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10. Papaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s churros and Papaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chocolate.

Photos by Adam Chiasson

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CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

On the Eaten Path A Walking Tour of Victoria for the Hungry story and photos by Julie Van Rosendaal

Perched on the edge of Vancouver Island, Victoria, B.C. has long been a getaway of choice for Calgarians wanting to grab a little ocean time on the weekend. Although it’s known for its whale-watching and Pacific seascapes, the small city is becoming more of a foodie destination these days, offering great new restaurants, markets, micro-breweries and food tours to the culinarily curious. Because it’s also known as the most walkable city in Canada, here’s a self-guided tour of this easy-to-navigate city, with a few foodie hot spots worth checking out.

The Empress.

Fan Tan Alley.

The Inner Harbour is the epicentre of the city, home to the B.C. Parliament buildings, Royal B.C. Museum and the iconic Fairmont Empress Hotel – probably the most popular tourist destination in Canada for high tea. A tradition since 1908, tea at the Empress has been served to royalty, celebrities and dignitaries; it features your choice of premium loose-leaf teas, freshly baked scones, tiers of tea sandwiches and sweets by award-winning pastry chef D’Oyen Christie, all served on dainty William Edwards china and sterling silver service to enchanting live piano music. Tea service starts at 11:30 a.m. daily, with the last seating at 4:45 p.m. For more information, visit fairmont.com/empress-victoria/dining/afternoontea. Victoria has a thriving food truck scene, with more than 50 licensed mobile vendors ranging in cuisines from Eastern European to Cajun to Mexican, and from fish & chips to mac & cheese. For a map of locations, with menus and hours, download the street food app at streetfoodapp.com/victoria The city’s also a great destination for old-school bakeries, like Willie’s Bakery & Café, which was founded in 1887. It’s located in one of the city’s best heritage buildings, a short stroll up Wharf Street from the harbour. Try their old-school breads, cookies and pastries and housemade granola; if you slept in, it’s a good spot for all-day breakfast, starring eggs sourced from a nearby farm. williesbakery.com

Union Coffee.

High Tea at the Empress.

The London Chef is a great foodie spot, Victoria’s own version of The Cookbook Co. Cooks. It features a pantry shop and a beautiful cooking school, all owned and run by a lovely couple from – you guessed it – London. thelondonchef.com Tacofino, the legendary orange taco truck based in Tofino, B.C., has expanded to a bricks-and-mortar location in Victoria (as well as to trucks and restaurants in Vancouver and Kelowna). You’ll find their ocean-inspired menu of tacos, burritos, gringas (like a cheesy quesadilla) and spicy tortilla soup on Fort St. between Douglas and Blanshard. tacofino.com Pagliacci’s – or Pag’s, as the locals call it – has been a Victoria institution since 1979. A family-owned old-school pasta joint, Pagliacci’s is straight out of the movies, always bustling, with walls plastered with photos autographed by visiting celebrities, good cheap house wine, enormous bowls of pasta and wedges of cheesecake. You won’t leave hungry. pagliaccis.ca

Tacofino Victoria.

Oak Bay Beach Hotel.

The Victoria Public Market in the Hudson Building now houses yearround vendors including local growers, fishermen, butchers, bakers, cheese-makers, brewers and vintners. It’s become a new food hub in the inner city, expanding every Wednesday from 11-3 to showcase more seasonal fare. Pick up some chèvre from Salt Spring Island Cheese, or some of the best, flakiest pie in the city from Victoria Pie Co. victoriapublicmarket.com With its British heritage, Victoria is a city of tea-lovers. If you are, too, a must stop is Victoria’s Silk Road. Anything but traditional, owner Daniela Cubelic was trained by Chinese and Taiwanese herbalists and tea masters. The shop is a creative tea outlet, offering tastings, cocktails and recipes, and plenty of history and culture that ventures far beyond the high tea experience. silkroadteastore.com

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

Victoria Pie Co. at the Public Market.

Big Wheel Burger.

In Oak Bay Village, it’s worth popping into Ottavio Italian Bakery & Delicatessen, where you’ll find more than 200 artisanal cheeses along with breads, baked goods, gelato and Italian food products and a sit-down café. A few blocks down is The Whole Beast, a hip nose-to-tail producer of artisan cured meats, including seven varieties of salami, chorizo, bacon, prosciutto, coppa, pepperoni and pâtés, along with more hard-to-find products like blood sausage, liverwurst, head cheese, cotechino (fresh pork sausage) and corned lamb or pork tongue. ottaviovictoria.com, thewholebeast.ca The stunningly remodeled Oak Bay Beach Hotel is a Victoria landmark. With a mineral pool and spa overlooking the ocean, it’s home to Victoria’s original neighbourhood pub, The Snug, which offers a curry bar every Wednesday from 5 to 9 p.m. The serve-yourself spread of curries, naan, jasmine rice and chutney ($18) is a perfect pairing for a cold pint. oakbaybeachhotel.com Beacon Hill Park is always good for a walk. For burgers, fries and enormous soft ice cream cones, stop by the Beacon Hill Drive-In. Nearby Cook Street Village is home to Pizzeria Prima Strada and Big Wheel Burger, serving up burgers made with ingredients sourced from within 100 miles. pizzeriaprimastrada.com and bigwheelburger.com No matter what time of year you go, there always seems to be something happening in Victoria. If you’re planning a visit for early March, Dine Around & Stay In Town offers about 60 Victoria restaurants, all offering three-course menus for $20, $30, $40 or $50. Later in the spring, Culinaire offers the best tasting experience of the year, and the Spot Prawn Festival celebrates the seasonal specialty with chef demonstrations, tastings, and special events like a long table dinner. In the summer, the annual Taste Festival kicks off with an evening sampling of more than 100 British Columbia wines and local cuisine, and continues with an extended long weekend of tastings, seminars and events. In the fall, the Art of the Cocktail is a three-day event showcasing all things cocktail. For more information about any of these events, visit tourismvictoria.com/events/dinearound, culinairevictoria.com, victoriataste.com and artofthecocktail.ca.

And if you’re looking for a little more direction, check out... offtheeatentracktours.ca/victoria ✤

Julie Van Rosendaal is a Calgary food writer and cookbook author and blogs at dinnerwithjulie.com

Slow Food Calgary presents...

Close by, Victoria’s wee Chinatown is the oldest in Canada; it’s worth exploring the food markets, hip shops and live-work condos, as well as Fan Tan Alley – the narrowest street in Canada. If you’re a coffee drinker, stop in at the trendy Union Pacific Coffee – and the nearby Jam Café serves up a hearty breakfast and lunch until 3 p.m.

now serving lunch lunch mon–fri 11:30–2 ramen available while quantities last

dinner sun–thurs 5:30–12 fri–sat 5:30–1

hapaizakaya.com @hapacalgary

hapa calgary @hapacalgary

PROHIBITION IS OVER

Roots & Shoots

Sunday, April 12th River Café Prince’s Island Park Aperitif and Canapé at 5:30 Dinner at 6:30

ALBERTA!

Slow Food’s annual celebration of spring’s return is once again hosted by River Café owner Sal Howell and chefs Andrew Winfield and Krissy Dumas. They welcome five guest chefs into the kitchen: Aviv Fried, Sidewalk Citizen Bakery; Andrea Harling, Brava Bistro; Dominique Moussu, Cassis Bistro; Mathieu Paré, Boxwood; Jonathan Sobol, FARM; to create an impressive seasonal menu, accompanied by stellar Canadian wines from the River Café cellar.

5 courses with wine pairings

Tickets available now at roots-and-shoots-2015.eventbrite.ca or slowfoodcalgary.ca Members $125 Non-Members $160

ASK FOR IT BY NAME AT YOUR LOCAL BAR OR LIQUOR STORE. WWW.LUCKYBASTARD.CA DON'T BE A DUMBASS. DRINK RESPONSIBLY.

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

OFF THE NORTH COAST OF B.C., A FOODIE AND FISHERMAN’S PARADISE story and photos by Regan Johnson

It’s 06:00 in Masset, Haida Gwaii, and the sun hasn’t risen high enough to burn off the low-hanging fog. Breakfast is a cup of coffee and a piece of toast hanging out of my mouth as I wrestle into my wet-weather gear. The toast goes down, the coffee comes with, and we grab the cooler packed with white-bread ham-and-cheese sandwiches for lunch. The tide waits for no one, so we’re off. So far, it doesn’t sound much like a fine dining escape, I know, but bear with me; those early mornings and toast breakfasts are the prologues to some of my best food memories. There truly is nothing like bringing a fish from dock to dinner table with the knowledge that it was wildcaught and sustainably-harvested – and that I had a blast doing it. If you had told me five years ago that ocean salmon fishing would be one of my absolute favourite things to do, I would have laughed. I’m a consummate landlubber, and before Haida Gwaii, I had never been on a boat smaller than a cruise ship, but it didn’t take long – about ten seconds after I had landed my first fish, actually – for me to realize I was in love. It could be enough to enjoy the breathtaking scenery and the sea air, but the moment that rod tip begins to wiggle, my heart now jumps into my throat, and the fight is totally on.

The author and her 40-lb salmon.

Formerly the Queen Charlotte Islands, Haida Gwaii is a foodie and fisherman’s paradise, replete with five species of salmon, all sizes of halibut, and ugly-but-delicious lingcod and rockfish. Each summer the salmon run, returning to the archipelago’s inlets to feed in preparation for spawning. And now, with lodges, B&Bs, and guided fishing charters all over the islands, it doesn’t matter where you come from; if you can hold a rod, you’re in! Salmon, especially the ones around Haida Gwaii, are some truly impressive sport fish. Limber Coho (known on the boat as coconuts) streak through the water and rocket to the surface, twisting and flipping and jumping in a way that all too often lets them spit the hook. But Chinook, or King, are the true heavyweight contenders, ranging from 15 to 70-plus pounds. They rarely jump – they just run, stripping line until the reel is whistling in protest and all you can do is hang on for the ride. The other varieties of Pacific salmon – Pink, Chum, and Sockeye – are also in abundance, but as Pink and Chum are the least palatable, they’re usually catch-release. Sockeye, while delicious, rarely takes the same bait that Coho and Chinook enjoy. They feed on crustaceans, which gives their flesh its prized deep orange colour. Sockeye may be the variety of salmon found on most restaurant menus east of Vancouver, but for the locals, there is a reason Chinook salmon is also known as King – it’s rich, flavourful, and has more of those healthy Omega-3s than any of its cousins. The flesh is pinker than Sockeye, but firmer, and stands up well to cooking methods like broiling or grilling with less chance of drying out. Large Coho are actually my eating preference, as they tend to be a little leaner and milder than Chinook or Sockeye, but do need to be cooked more gently. For those who don’t think much of salmon, the waters of Haida Gwaii have more to offer. I spend time every year “jigging” for flat brown halibut – which, I admit, is not my favourite. Last summer, I found I had been sitting with a particularly sneaky halibut on my line for who knows how long, and never knew until I began to bring the line up and it felt like I had hooked a mattress. Pulling a halibut to the surface is a matter of muscle, and I find it less exciting than playing a salmon, but the promise of beer-battered halibut and chips fresh from the fryer is always enough to motivate me. Lingcod and rockfish, spiny and toothy, also have firm white flesh reminiscent of halibut. What they lack in beauty, they definitely deliver in flavour. The rockfish ceviche we made last summer was out-of-this-world delicious, and fresh-caught lingcod might be even better than halibut for fish and chips. Haida Gwaii may boast some of the best fishing in North America, but that’s hardly its whole bounty. In the summer, glossy-shelled Dungeness crab come into shallow waters to spawn, and can be netted from the beach at low tide. On North Beach, we dig oblong razor clams buried in the sand, and my husband, the champion, looks like a golden retriever when he does it, on his hands and knees, flinging up sand behind him. It’s a race, because razor clams can burrow up to a foot in sixty seconds. Talk about working for your eats!

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

In-laws proud of the catch.

In both cases, the chase is ever so rewarding. Crab cakes, crab legs with butter, clam fritters, clam chowder – the sort of fresh seafood that I dream about when I’m back home in Cowtown! If that isn’t enough, winter storms wash scallops as big as my palm up on Haida Gwaii beaches, and the local markets stock them fresh frozen in the summer. Rockfish ceviche.

Husband digging for clams.

Masset harbour.

Candied salmon.

And though fishing, crabbing, clamming and eating might be my primary itinerary when I’m in Haida Gwaii, the islands remain one of the most beautiful and pristine places I have ever been. Long, driftwood-strewn beaches give way to thick, old-growth forests, branches hung with moss. With wide swaths of the islands under park protection, it’s paradise for hikers, and for those seeking to truly commune with nature, there are low-impact campsites along the coastlines. In the towns and cities, the cultural heritage of the native Haida still reigns, and there are many opportunities to explore the archipelago’s vibrant history. It may be because I spend a lot of my time there hanging around a marina cleaning my own catch, but I have had the pleasure of seeing twenty bald eagles in one place. Over the years, I have seen countless dainty sitka deer, one shy member of the subspecies of black bear that exists on the island, and ravens so large they look like they could very easily carry off your small dog. At sea, sightings of humpback whales, orca, dolphins, porpoises and sea lions are common, though once one of them has stolen a salmon from your line – and I swear the same sea lion has gotten me twice – you might be less excited to see them near your fishing boat. Guided boat tours, however, are available for those who just want to get a closer look. And as far as food travel goes? Haida Gwaii is an unparalleled experience in local and delicious, and for Albertans, it’s practically in our backyard. For prairie-bound foodies that have developed an interest in Farmto-Table cuisine, getting handson with our coastal harvest is the clear next step. ✤

Salmon and halibut.

Regan Johnson is a born-urbanite who has learned to love getting back to nature, especially when it comes to getting up close and personal with her eats.

Corporate Events – Weddings – Birthdays – Catering 403-455-2244 www.bundtz.com CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

From the

cean

3 INSPIRED RECIPES FROM A SEAFOOD PRO Eric Giesbrecht

Chef-by-trade, Eric Giesbrecht has been known as Eric “The Oyster Man” for the past 10 years, providing the very best of Canadian shellfish to the restaurant world and private raw bar events. Before becoming the city’s provider of premium oyster services, Giesbrecht built a reputation catering dinner parties and teaching cooking classes. Here are three of his favourite recipes to warm the cockles of your heart. Smoked Sturgeon Borscht Prairie meets pre-history in this somewhat twisted classic soup, as an age-old culinary tradition collides with an age-old dinosaur species of the Canadian river system. I figure that not even the proudest of all eastern Europeans would fight me on the finished product, though an eyebrow might be raised by mere mention that the soup was being played with. In the end, the subtle yet defining richness of the sturgeon fat comes through to flavour the stock base without revealing itself entirely. It blends so well you’d think that this was someone’s Russian grandmother’s recipe. Add sour cream if you must, but it would be a distraction. 4 T. butter (or more) 1/2 t. caraway seeds 1 small onion, small dice 1 rib celery, small dice 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced splash of vermouth 1/2 lb. hot-smoked sturgeon, small dice (or smoked black cod) 8 c. chicken stock 1 bay leaf 2 lbs. beets, peeled, small dice (two fist-sized beets will do) 2 small red potatoes, small dice 2 t. vinegar (apple cider for this guy)

Melt the butter in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan and toast the caraway seeds in the butter once the sizzling subsides. Add the onion, celery and garlic and sauté until softened, then hit the veg with the vermouth and stir to lift any tasty bits. Stir in the sturgeon, then add the stock, bay leaf, beets and potatoes, and simmer for 20-30 minutes, depending on how large your dice is, until the beets are tender. Add the vinegar to season and balance the salt from the smoked fish. Maybe bring the pepper mill to the table with this one. That’s it, that’s all. Serves 4.

Angels on Whaleback This is less a recipe than it is a missive sent into a world of nameless distractions to convince you all to eat some caviar the planet’s most rewarding distraction. Caviar is a mass of salt-cured, unfertilized fish eggs that have been harvested from any one of the world’s 26 varieties of sturgeon. Every other use of the word caviar – to refer to other fish eggs, more aptly named roe – is a clear bastardization of the term. Caviar comes from sturgeon, and that’s that! Alongside being a source of vitamins A and D, and potassium, caviar is a considerable source of omega-3 fats. Thus, the glow attributed to consuming large amounts of caviar is perhaps due to its actual mood-enhancing effects and not simply an expression of self-satisfaction. (Takers of fish and krill oil supplements will be familiar with this powerful mood enhancement!) Why Angels on Whaleback? The dish is visually a metaphor. “Angels”– innocent-yet-knowing, glowing, mysterious and enticing. “On Whaleback” – the part of the whale is played by our oyster, wet with “ocean” nectar, bulging out from the surface.

The recipe: 1 dozen fresh oysters, shucked and on the half shell, with their liquor/nectar (east or west coast varieties will suit equally well) 1 oz. caviar, wild caught if you can find it, but farmed caviar would also suffice (Acadian Sturgeon and Caviar Inc., New Brunswick, provides wild-caught caviar, Northern Divine does a beautiful farmed, organic caviar from British Columbia) 1 spoon, made of inert material (mother of pearl, ceramic, wood, anything but metal) 1 friend, whom you adore

Visually assess your opened tin of caviar and envision dividing it into 12 equal portions. Using your spoon, proceed to mount each oyster with a twelfth of the ounce – this will portion about 2 grams of caviar to each bi-valve. Portioning may take some practice, so don’t worry about being exact. Two grams may seem like a lot, but smaller bites than this are a tease. There may be a few eggs strewn about the edges of the tin, so be sure to shamelessly apply your tongue to the insides of the container and finish the egg harvest that began many months ago by the sturgeon fisherman. Consume the well-garnished oyster at a modest pace. A bottle of crisp, dry bubbles should be your only third wheel; try sips of it both before, during and after each bite. They will all offer something different to the experience, which you will find to be far greater than the sum of its parts. Serves 2.

Bivalves ‘n’ Hog ‘n’ Hogs Beach, pasture and forest royalty combine to become, by far, my favourite steamed clam dish of all time. Clams, bacon and hedgehog mushrooms. This dish comes with a nod of my cap to Brent Petkau, Mr. Oysterman on Cortez Island, BC, who inspired me to recognize the virtues of one of the world’s most overlooked, and undercooked, sources of protein on the planet – the clam. When you imbibe the smoky ocean nectar with the silky rub of the mushroom on your palate, it’s all over. Be the first to come to my warehouse – see sidebar – and recite Shel Silverstein poem called “It’s All the Same to the Clam”and you will get yourself a free bag of clams to cook this recipe! 3 T. butter 2 shallots, finely diced 1/2 lb. thick-cut bacon, chopped 2 lbs. hedgehog mushrooms, left whole and cleaned (or button mushrooms) 5 lbs. Manila clams* (because one pound per person just isn’t enough) 1-2 c. chicken stock butter, to taste (yes, I just said that) 1/2 head flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped

Inspect your clams, taking the time to smell and sniff your way around the whole lot. I say this because once a bad clam opens and its contents are released, it’s near impossible to recover from and the whole dish may be ruined. What are you trying to smell for? Trust me, you will know. Melt the butter in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepot and let it brown a bit. Add the shallots, and when soft, add the bacon but don’t fry it crisp – we’re just looking for a rendering of the fat, not bacon bits. To the new layer of fat in the pan, add the mushrooms and sauté them over medium heat to bring out their water, then reduce the heat. I originally cooked this recipe with summer chanterelles from Saskatchewan, but as I write this, hedgehogs are in season and making silly food puns is fun. This recipe is for you, Pierre Lamielle. When you, Palate readers, see this recipe, the Saskie chanties might soon be back. So keep this one in your back pocket and talk to your aunt in La Ronge. Once the mushroom water has evaporated, add enough chicken stock to the pot to make about 1/2 inch of liquid and quickly bring to a boil. Add the clams and cover the pot with the heat on high. (You don’t want to cover the clams with the broth – it’s the steam from the boiling stock that allows the clams to open quickly and not overcook the tender meat.) The clams will take 4-5 minutes to steam open, but once you see some gaping, simply shake the pot around and the vigorous bumping will help open the rest of them much sooner. Then, add 3-4 knobs of butter because it tastes amazing and it’s good for you. Toss out any clams that haven’t opened. Give your best Emeril impersonation with the parsley and serve immediately in deep bowls, with good-sized spoons, remembering to bring an extra bowl to the table for spitoon-ing the discarded shells. Also, you’ll want a toothsome bread to help sop up the good juices. Serves 4. *Ask for ocean-purged clams - if your fishmonger knoweth not of which you speak, find a new fishmonger. (Giesbrecht also sells ocean-purged clams – see below.) ✤

Geisbrecht sells hot smoked sturgeon at his warehouse, OysterTribe, 903B - 48th Ave. SE, 403-214-1478. He also carries hedgehog mushrooms and all other seasonally available wild mushrooms, as do Co-op stores, regularly. And Angels on Whaleback ingredients can be found at OysterTribe too. He also sells ocean-purged clams. They are clams that are hung in bags in their native ocean environment for 2 to 3 days before final harvest to help purge the clams of sand. Most clams are purged in a tank in your fishmonger’s shop. They’re fine too.

Eric Giesbrecht is owner of Meta4 Foods and the driving force behind OysterTribe, a catering and direct retail outfit.

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

Made with natural ingredients, proudly handcrafted in Calgary.

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DINNER & A MOVIE Movie themed, three-course, prix fixe dinner in the Selkirk Grille and viewing of the film in Gasoline Alley Museum March 3 & 24: Mob Movie Madness April 14 & 28: â&#x20AC;&#x2122;80s Cult Classics $44.95 +GST per person

Reservations 403.268.8607 or HeritagePark.ca Open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner.

Executive Chef Jan Hansen â&#x20AC;˘ Chef de Cuisine Sean Cutler

Est. 1963

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Three generations of service and quality

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

What’s NEWon the Okanagan Food & Wine Scene by Jennifer Cockrall-King

I’m working on a new book project this spring that won’t come out until spring 2016. It’s called Food Artisans of the Okanagan Valley, and I’m spending a fair amount of time touring the main streets and back roads of food and wine country, ferreting out what’s new and exciting. (Someone has to do this job.) But you don’t want to wait until next spring, do you? Of course not. Neither do I. So why don’t I share my newest discoveries with you, as a sort of sneak peek? And writing about the food side of life in the Okanagan is thirsty work. Here are the latest notable new wine, beer, spirits and food ventures that have sprung up. Let’s start in the north and work our way south. VERNON AND LAKE COUNTRY Okanagan Spirits (okanaganspirits.com) launched over a decade ago with its worldclass eau-de-vie, fruit brandy, vodka, gin, grappa, aquavit and absinthe. But it now makes an elegant single malt, and has a fancy whisky lounge and a tasting room with a 27 ft. bar in its distillery headquarters in downtown Vernon as of January. 50th Parallel Winery (50thparallel.com) in Lake Country opened its gorgeous new winery and tasting room in 2014 to much buzz because of wine maker Grant Stanley’s excellent pinot noirs and pinot noir rosés. Main Photo: The stunning view from 50th Parallel Estate, photo by Colin Jewall.

WNA WEST KELO macridge.com) Sumac Ridge (su om ul new tasting ro revealed a beautif g its din an br re r te af and facility facelift e, es – Sumac Ridg different wine lin Jay ’s ar ell St rds and Black Sage Vineya . els lab ique – into its own un te Hill Family Esta Last fall, Mission sed lea re lwinery.com) Winery (missionhil allsm , ium ion of prem its Terroir Collect e ar h hic w s, rd wine lot, single-vineya m the winery. fro le ab ail av only

KELOWNA y new tasting rooms and exploding with swank This town seems to be com) opened in 2014 and bri lted Brick (salted ck. Sa nk. dri -made and eat to places local cheese and house a mere $11 for all that the ploughman’s lunch, tap. It also serves bubbly on charcuterie, is a steal. Curious (thecurious.ca) just opened called The has t ran tau res w ne od-fired pizzas. An interesting best way – and good wo the in – nu me e iqu with a un is a very end of 2013, and owna.com) opened at the kel nal cro gio (mi Re es Z Bit uD r Ra Ba at Micro same team -craft beer bar by the glass 900 sq. ft. wine-cocktail sting local wines by the ere int has cro Mi ay. aw s. ors do ter frit and risotto Table, just a few marinated mushrooms as h suc as tap ly nd rie and wine-f en to ors will have swung op s newsstands, the do hit ue ess iss s sin thi bu e an tim By the the owners me mandpearl.com). Clearly gri ort(pil , rep arl ey Pe Th . & bar m gri ter Pil ktails and an oys coc c ssi cla is, rtin ma or, perty next do 27 when it comes to & Pearl and its sister pro rim Pilg o al int n llio mi edly put $1 ectic lounge where loc promises to be an ecl 27 ). rcom spi na. and ow s kel ion ven uct (twentyse irs, bitters, red e will preside over elix r. Job ou rry flav Ge na ru low gu il Ke a kta h coc unge, wit the return of the Tiki Lo its, perhaps heralding stitute.com) in late titute (treebrewingbeerin Ins er Be its ed en op beer education, and Tree Brewing ss unfiltered craft beer, -gla -to keg its h ale h wit 14 20 summer spent grains served wit as pretzels made with h suc d, foo ed pir ins beerhoney mustard. winemaking philosin on its single vineyard alle gon has a) s.c ine a highly polished tasting Sandhill (sandhillw nce via flat screen TV in erie exp y now can you ophy, which lounge that opened in Ma expansive winery tasting and e siv res imp an e. in m anc progra ked in adv programs need to be boo 2014. Some of the tasting

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

SUMMERLAND Here are a couple of win e trends that are worth noting. There are a handful of Okanagan garagiste win e makers making great wines in micro-lots, many witho ut a winery. Another trend is “n atural wine” – a vague ly defined movement towards org anic and biodynamic, low interference, unfiltered and minimal additives. Summ erland’s Tyler Harlton Wines (thw ines.com) are both garagi ste and natural, making the m highly sought after in his new galley tasting room in an industrial park.

PENTICTON Now this is what I call progress. Farmers’ Markets in BC are now allowed to sample and sell alcoholic beverages. Penticton Farmers’ Market (pentictonfarmersmarket.org) paved the way with beer, liquor and wine vendors starting July last year, and this trend will likely spread to other markets in 2015. Bad Tattoo Brewing Company (badtattoobrewing.com) opened in July 2014 and quickly became Penticton’s busiest patio and brewpub.

N A R A M ATA The Grape Leaf Café (360 Robinson Avenue ; no website) is the ne village for big breakfast w spot in Naramata s, lunch comfort foods and cappuccinos, done right. They say that great win e is made mostly in the field, so while Deep Ro (deeprootswinery.com) ots Winery is new, it’s no surprise that its wines are great. are in their fourth gene The Hardmans ration of fruit growing in the deep clay soils Bench. And I’m tickled of the Naramata pink and amber – sparkli ng gamay rosés and cha bruts respectively – abo rdonnay ut Bella Wines (bellaw ines.ca), dedicated exc bubbly. The tasting roo lusively to m opened this spring. Legend Distillery (legend distilling.com), also new in 2014, is dangerously and has a lovely tasting close to my house room. Let’s just say tha t I’m now never out of cra ft gin or vodka. O K A N A G A N FA L L S Something’s happening in Okanagan Falls, hitherto a bit of a drive-by location. Then last spring, Liquidity (liquiditywines.com) opened its excellent new bistro and winery with views of the south Okanagan landscape that should be hanging in the Louvre. Painted Rock (paintedrock.ca) winery also upgraded from an ATCO trailer as a wine shop to an ultra-modern tasting room and patio befitting its cult-status wines.

EVENTS

Painted Rock Winery, photo by Carey Tarr Photography.

While there are an ever-growing number of great association and winery events in the valley, here are a few top picks. Book or buy tickets early as many of them sell out weeks, even months, in advance. MARCH 7: Vertical & Vintages, Apex Mountain Resort and the Naramata Bench Wineries Association apexresort.com/ activities-events/verticalandvintages APRIL 10 & 11: Penticton Fest-of-Ale fest-of-ale.bc.ca

A beautiful place in an

extraordinary setting with staff who care and chefs who are passionate about quality and regional seasonal ingredients.

A P R I L 3 0 T O M AY 1 0 : Spring Wine Festival – events throughout the Okanagan thewinefestivals.com including mata Bench Tailgate Party Celebrity judges at the Nara tcher crouched in the front. Calgary’s own Shelley Boet

J U LY 1 1 : Similkameen Wineries Association BBQ King competition similkameenwine.com/events AUGUST 7 TO 9: The Mile High Wine & Music Event at Silverstar Mountain Resort skisilverstar.com/events/silver-starwine-and-food-festival

Tailgate night shot, photos by Naramata Bench Wineries Assoc.

SEPTEMBER 12: Naramata Tailgate Party naramatabench. com/calendars/tailgate-party-2015/ SEPTEMBER 13: Small Guys Wine Festival garagistenorth.com SEPTEMBER 25 & 26: Hopscotch Whisky, Beer, Spirits Festival, Kelowna hopscotchfestival.com/kelowna OCTOBER 1 TO 11: Fall Wine Festival – events through the Okanagan thewinefestivals.com S U M M E R A N D FA L L : Tinhorn Creek Concert Series tinhorn.com/concerts

Micro Bar Bites, Amy greets the first guests. Photo by David McIlvride, Spatula Media and Communications.

Lunch, Dinner, Weekend Brunch

403-261-7670 river-cafe.com

S U M M E R A N D FA L L : Mission Hill Concert Series missionhillwinery.com

OLIVER AND OSOYOOS A Joy Road (joyroadcatering.com) al fresco dinner at God’s Mountain Estate is a must-do dinner for any food and wine lover. The set menus are Okanagan terroir in its purest, most delicious form, from the foraged foods of the day to the top wines of the valley. Dates for the dinners are announced in eary spring and by June spots at dinner are mostly sold out. Covert Farms (covertfarms.ca) is a picturesque organic farm, U-pick, winery and vineyard at the foot of McIntyre Bluff. Last summer, Covert unveiled its Signature Series Experience farm tour. Explore the property in the back of a 1952 Mercury truck and take in the perfect blend of South Okanagan history, geology, local culture, and tastings from the fields and wines. Lastly, watch for the opening of Okanagan wine country pioneer Harry McWatters’ newest venture: his Encore Vineyard (encorevineyards.ca) 25,000 sq. ft. custom crush and tasting centre, opening summer 2015 on the Black Sage Bench. It will be the new home of Time Estate Winery (timewinery.com) and the McWatters Collection (harrymcwatters.com).

The valley’s cocktail scene erupted a few years ago at RauDZ Regional Table when Gerry Jobe was the restaurant’s “liquid chef.” Jobe got the field-to-glass thing going and now there are a dozen chefs in the valley in the #okanagancocktailmovement cabal. Find them with that hashtag on Twitter. ✤

Jennifer Cockrall-King is the founder of the Okanagan Food & Wine Writers Workshop (September 11-13, 2015; foodwinewriters.com). In early 2016 Touchwood Editions will publish her newest book, Food Artisans of the Okanagan Valley. Find Jennifer at foodgirl.ca. CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

eats

Saskatoon THIS AIN’T YOUR GRANDMA’S SASKATOON

story and photos by Kate Zimmerman

On first impression, it still looks a bit like the prairie town that time forgot, with its snug wartime homes and wide, sunny streets. In truth, though, things are percolatin’, and I don’t mean farmhouse coffee. There’s plenty of quirkiness here. The popular hangout Collective Coffee oddly provides stir-stick-length bits of uncooked pasta for stirring your java, while at The Woods Alehouse, a cider from England’s West Country adorably called Old Rosie Cloudy Scrumpy shares the menu with a huge selection of beers like the Saskatcheweizen –“a German style wheat beer with clove and banana notes.” No matter where you are, hillbilly beards abound, whether they’re dangling behind an accordion or threatening the foam on your incoming latte. Meanwhile, there’s an unexpectedly cool boutique venue called The James Hotel inside the bland façade of the Sheraton. Both are across the street from the handsome, comfortable, historic railway hotel called the Delta Bessborough (b. 1935). So Canada’s broader trends are acknowledged and absorbed here, but not followed slavishly, making for a city that’s welcoming, unpretentious and interesting. Tour Lucky Bastard Distillers, for instance, and you’ll learn it custom-makes a pickle vodka for Regina’s Birmingham Vodka & Ale House. It also distills Horilka, a honey- and pepper-infused vodka, along with gin, rum, whisky and liqueurs from local organic fruit like haskap, which is edible blue honeysuckle, as well as carmine jewel dwarf cherry and sea buckthorn. Local purveyors aren’t scared of risks. Why else would someone like hometown boy Dale MacKay, who left for the kitchens of Gordon Ramsay and Daniel Boulud and wound up as Canada’s Top Chef in the show’s first season in 2011, ditch the challenging but energetic Vancouver food scene to establish his restaurant, Ayden Kitchen & Bar, in Saskatoon? MacKay’s going great guns with Ayden, a cheerful place designed by Calgary’s Connie Young. It’s bustling on the Friday night I visit, with nine intent staff members in the open kitchen and happy diners fully engaged. We start off with a platter of glistening sausages and charcuterie ranging from chorizo to pistachio mortadella, chicken liver parfait and duck rillettes, all made downstairs in Ayden’s giant basement kitchen (where the chefs also age and butcher its meat) and complemented by house-made pickled turnip. My taste buds go into orbit over the Thai sausage, made by grinding the ginger, lime leaves and lemongrass with the meat – an addiction-in-the-making. My main is pan-roasted steelhead trout, from a local man-made lake named after former Prime Minister John Diefenbaker. It arrives crisp-skinned, as full of juicy stories as one of Dief’s unrecognized love children, poised on a sunny pillow of corn succotash, kale, mushroom and lobster jus.

Darby Kells, Riversdale Deli.

Ayden co-chef and butcher Nathan Guggenheimer, late of such Vancouver establishments as db Bistro (another Daniel Boulud joint), is one of the locals crowding the Saskatoon Farmers’ Market on a Saturday morning, picking up Saskatchewan lingonberries and Brussels sprouts on the stalk. Here talented chefs and humble home cooks alike come across award-winning fruit wines from Living Sky Winery; headcheese from Mother Hubbard’s Cupboard; and Gravelbourg Gourmet Mustard.

Diefenbaker steelhead trout at Ayden.

Ayden’s co-chef, Nathan Guggenheimer.

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

Vegetarian breakfast at the Saskatoon Farmers’ Market.

Frumpy Golden Dragon morphed into The Hollows.

Afterward, hardcore foodaholics might hop in a car and visit Christie’s Il Secondo on Broadway Avenue, where the bakery’s morning bun is croissant dough infused with cinnamon sugar – far better than any cinnamon bun you’ve wasted your time eating so far. Excellent food isn’t hard to find here. At the 10-year-old Truffles Bistro, chef Lee Helman transforms wafers of pickerel into a ceviche with citrus, scallions, chile, fried garlic, local greens and a truffle-kissed vinaigrette. A pan-seared Brome Lake duck breast pirouettes onto my palate, rather than clumping in wearing the usual fruity, fatty ski boots, alongside ricotta and green pea dumplings, baby carrots, and pea- and micro-radish shoots in a fresh ginger and green onion jus lié. Beauty. As a rule, brunch is often tediously predictable, a festival of flaccid eggs and weary French toast; expect surprises at The Hollows. Here, chefs Christie Peters and Kyle Michael have taken a ratty old Chinese restaurant with burnt-out lights on its Golden Dragon sign and, basically, not transformed it. It looks like hell on the outside, and when you go inside, it looks like hell’s Chinese & Western Food restaurant, with its mismatched wall paneling, murky lighting and big old lanterns. It’s mysterious, since The Hollows doesn’t serve Asian food. It is, however, a fantastic place to eat, with the dinner menu featuring things like “rotating cuts of pork as we work through the whole beast.” At weekend brunch, start with a pleasantly tart mini smoothie featuring wild strawberries, banana and sea buckthorn. Move on to a Dutch pancake called a pannekoek that’s a dinner-plate-sized crêpe harbouring two fried eggs, melted aged gouda, sautéed local apples, a smidge of maple syrup and house-made bacon whose fantastic smokiness should inspire at least a worldwide brunch uprising, if

not a full-blown revolution. A waffle with salted caramel sauce and a savoury porridge with eggs and pork belly are other delectable options. The Hollows’ tea box contains the restaurant’s own “custom foraged” tea blends, mixing up items like juniper, fir tips, stinging nettle, cherry bark and spiced jasmine. Not my cuppa, but if this ain’t hipster fuel, hipsters are now self-fuelling. Hungry again? Then it’s time to visit former Calgarian Darby Kells at Riversdale Delicatessen & Market. Kells worked as a sous-chef at Calgary’s Q Haute Cuisine before returning home to Saskatoon, where he now bakes up to 92 loaves of bread a day, makes two soups and constructs many sandwiches like the Swine & Brine – roasted pork shoulder, house-made mustard cream and sweet, spicy cabbage sauerkraut. He also sells imported charcuterie like jamón Iberico and cheeses like Italy’s saffron pecorino and Wisconsin’s Chai BellaVitano. In 2015, Kells will open up an adjacent pizza parlour where – stylish Neapolitan style be damned – thin crusts will reign supreme. Like I need another excuse to go running back to Saskatoon. ✤ Kate Zimmerman, who was born in “the Peg,” foolishly skipped over the whole province of Saskatchewan in previous travels between east and west. Now she’ll try her best to stop there. We’ve learned that tasty Famoso Neapolitan Pizzeria has opened a restaurant in the Lawson Heights neighbourhood of Saskatoon, the first Famoso in Saskatchewan. So if you love this pizza of Naples and you’re hanging around eating good food in Saskatoon, you’ll be able to get yours for both lunch and dinner at 136 Primrose Drive, famoso.ca.

Gin, Bourbon & Rye, oh my!

edible

EDUCATION Building healthier communities by empowering people to make healthy food choices. OFFERING A VARIETY OF HANDS-ON CLASSES FOR ALL AGES • Edible container gardening • Canning and preserving with a twist • Cooking for adults or parents with their children AND JUST IN TIME FOR SPRING:

• Grow n' Learn speaker series and how-to sessions for gardeners • Community garden plots for rent

ART OF THE

MAY 2-3 • 2015 We’re back! Art of the Cocktail returns to Calgary for a second year. Two days of trends, tips and ‘tails at the Grand Tasting and seminars.

Make this your year to experience the Art of the Cocktail! For more information, go to artofthecocktail.ca

Learn more at:

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CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

FROM POTATO FAMINE

to Michelin Stars THE RISING FOODIE SCENE IN IRELAND story and photos by Carolyne Kauser-Abbott

It’s official – the grass is definitively greener in Ireland than it is in Calgary. The Emerald Isle has long attracted golfers and garden lovers yearning to walk on her lush shores. Only recently has Ireland’s terroir hooked the attention of astute global foodies. Aniar, plated.

The Irish potato famine struck in the summer of 1845, triggered by a fungus that had travelled from Mexico to Ireland. As farmers turned over their fields of Ireland’s primary food staple, they and their countrymen shed tears at the devastating sight of slimy rotting potatoes. This was both a natural and a human disaster in a country where at least half the population’s diet was largely dependent on those starchy spuds. Ireland was under British colonial rule, and Irish Catholics had no land ownership rights. They could only rent small plots of five acres or less from Protestant landlords. A planted acre of potatoes could feed a family for a year, making the choice of cultivating potatoes over grain a natural one. Starvation and famine fever struck with terrible force, killing an estimated one million people and obligating double that number to emigrate to other countries around the globe. It was a dark decade in Irish history. Even today, it would be difficult to find a family in Ireland untouched in some manner by the potato famine. That may be the reason that the country is only now on the cusp of a food revolution. According to Margaret Jeffares, founder and visionary behind Good Food Ireland, people inside and outside the country are finally making the connection that good, innovative food helps to attract tourists. “In the last 15 years, small artisan producers have blossomed, and innovation in the food production sector has increased,” says Jeffares.

Ed Cooney, executive chef at the Merrion Hotel.

Ed Cooney, executive chef at Dublin’s five-star Merrion Hotel, noted that, these days, products at the hotel must be of the highest quality – “local is simply not good enough.” Guests are discerning, and the food must meet their critical expectations. Today’s travellers have much greater food awareness than they did in the past, more dietary choices and they’re quite nutrition-conscious.

JP & Drigin, Aniar.

Cooney’s first goal, once he returned from working in the U.K., was to investigate which foods were actually produced in Ireland. In his kitchen, he now purchases only a few imported specialty products, like foie gras. He’s passionate about Irish artisanal products such as the hotel’s balsamic apple cider vinegar produced by Llewellyns Orchard. According to Chef Cooney, the vinegar is comparable to Italian products he has sampled. He says that finding this vinegar in Ireland was one of his biggest “Aha!” moments. Excellent primary food products, including dairy, beef, lamb and seafood, have always existed in Ireland. Over 10 percent of these goods are exported annually to the United Kingdom and other destinations. According to the European Commission website, 4.5 million hectares, or roughly twothirds of Ireland’s land mass, is dedicated to agriculture.

Merrion Cellar Restaurant Roast Wicklow Lamb with Asparagus and Dauphinoise Potato.

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

Michelin-starred chef Ross Lewis, the owner of Chapter One Restaurant in Dublin, says there was always a strong agricultural and industrial food scene in the country. However, there was no awareness of how to make the best use of these primary products. In his opinion, cooking in Dublin and the rest of Ireland was very traditional, with a main course plate always including a protein, vegetables and starch. That regime began to change in the 1970s, a turning point that Lewis attributes to a handful of innovative producers. He gives high marks to Norman and Veronica Steele, who re-introduced washed-rind Milleens cheese on the Beara Peninsula in West Cork in 1976.

Aniar, plated.

As recently as the 1980s, aspiring chefs still had to leave Ireland to acquire the kitchen and business skills they needed to run a restaurant. Chef, TV personality, author and food writer Paul Flynn runs The Tannery restaurant with his wife Marie in Dungarvan. He trained in London from 1983 to 1993 at a Michelinstarred restaurant. He says at that time London seemed a million miles away from Ireland; you had to make the trip by boat and it took a day to get there. According to Flynn, “Good food was not part of Irish culture.” Chef Cooney says that he left Ireland because he wanted to work with established chefs in upscale restaurants and hotels. At the time, the Irish economy was in poor shape and the opportunities to cook in five-star restaurants in Ireland did not exist for a young chef. He spent 15 years away working in England and Scotland with employers that included Four Seasons Hotels. Cooney was recruited back to Dublin as part of the Merrion’s start-up team in 1997. He was skeptical, but the owners wanted an Irish chef. The chefs I interviewed for this article were bullish on the future of the Irish food industry. Cooney says that premium food exports will increase, and Ireland will become a real foodie destination. John McKenna, who has written travel guides about Ireland for 25 years, tells me that everything about the specialty food culture has gotten better every year. According to McKenna, “The Irish have moved from seeing food as fuel to viewing food as art, something that should be treasured and respected.” His sentiment is echoed by Michelin-starred chef J.P. McMahon, the co-owner of Aniar Restaurant in Galway. “The food scene has dramatically changed from one that’s essentially only for survival to a genuine appreciation of good food and the creative use of products,” says McMahon. Where years ago chefs would have had to backpack to countries to learn about cooking, spices and techniques, now they can do so in Ireland. The island has clearly come a long way along the food spectrum from subsistence conditions to a destination whose food alone is worth the trip. With its metaphorical larder full of primary products, artisanal foods, food festivals, cooking schools and top-ranked restaurants, Ireland’s culinary scene is now capturing the attention of foodie tourists.

Good Food Ireland – goodfoodireland.ie – is your guarantee of the best authentic Irish food experiences from more than 600 places to stay, eat, cook and shop around the Emerald Isle. Good Food Ireland is an all-island food tourism proposition, that markets culinary tours and experiences across all 32 counties.

The following are located in the Republic of Ireland: Aniar Restaurant and Boutique Cookery School – aniarrestaurant.ie – is a terroir- based Michelin-starred restaurant located in Galway’s West End. Chapter One – chapteronerestaurant.com – is a Michelin-starred restaurant located in Dublin, with menu creations by chef Ross Lewis. John and Sally McKenna’s Guides – guides.ie – provide the best places to eat, shop and stay in Ireland. Llewellyns Orchard – llewellynsorchard.ie – a family run fruit orchard in Lusk, north of Dublin, that produces premium vinegars and juices from the fruit. Milleens Cheese – milleenscheese.com – producers of specialty, washed-rind cheese on the Beara Peninsula. The Tannery Cookery School & Town House – tannery.ie – was voted Ireland’s Best Restaurant in 2013. It is located in Dungarvan, County Waterford. The Merrion Hotel – merrionhotel.com – is a five-star hotel property in the heart of Dublin. The restaurants, bars and food service are all the responsibility of executive chef Ed Cooney. ✤

Carolyne Kauser-Abbott writes gingerandnutmeg.com, a travel blog for foodies, manages a digital magazine perfectlyprovence.co and has travel apps at edibleheritage.com. All images provided by Good Food Ireland.

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CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

9EvenTHINGS YOU JUST can’t GIVE UP… if you’re trying to trim the winter padding you’ve put on to keep warm. by Caitlin Best

In my opinion, hitting the gym to stay fit is kind of like school fire drills. During those formative years, no matter how many times you were asked to practice walking calmly single-file to the muster point, you never took it too seriously. With this attitude, my workouts are an absolute breeze. Armed with the latest celebrity gossip magazine and my cell phone to sneak in the occasional text, an almost – not quite – 20-minute workout on the elliptical trainer is a standard part of my routine. After working up a half decent sweat (from texting) and getting caught up on Taylor Swift’s latest love affair, I can leave the gym feeling satisfied and even indulge in a Ship and Anchor burger as my post-workout protein treat. In other words, I’ll never be one of those people who denies the tastier things in life for a killer body. With the swimsuit edition of Sports Illustrated on newsstands and the words “tone,” “bikini,” “board shorts” and “diet” appearing in every new magazine, some people might feel a little anxious about ramping up their workout plan for the months ahead. But before anyone thinks about trading in the latest Kardashian fodder for free weights, I’m here to make an argument for nine things that should never be given up, even in the name of bathing suit season.

DUCK GRAVY POUTINE

HAM YOU CAN’T RESIST

Calgary loves Brasserie Kensington’s menu because it’s so unapologetic. To chef/owner Cam Dobranski, the term “low fat” is simply not allowed in-house and the duck gravy poutine exemplifies this high-calorie rule. Sprinkled with cheese curds, the gravy-drizzled fries are too good to miss. Joe Beef has nothing on this place.

In Spain, “black gold” means something entirely different from its meaning here. The Iberian black pig is a hefty regional breed that’s in the same weight class as the cast of Here Comes Honey Boo Boo but it’s so very delicious. Due to the pig’s predilection for acorns, Iberico ham possesses a nutty quality and is best enjoyed in paper-thin slices.

After trying Dobranski’s version, it’s easy to see why poutine was rated high on The Greatest Canadian Invention TV mini-series – higher than BlackBerry phones and paint rollers. If you’re going to order this signature Brasserie dish, get the full order. Anything less would be unpatriotic.

LATE NIGHT GOODS Every health and wellness magazine you read will tell you that eating late at night is not good for you. However, it doesn’t help that Calgary’s late-night food scene has some darn good offerings, and now the re-opening of Anju offers us more temptations. Roy Oh’s contemporary take on his Korean homeland’s classics are just too good to pass up. If hunger pangs call before 1 a.m., then make sure your order consists of wagyu skirt steak and gochujang chicken wings.

EL DIABLO We all know alcohol isn’t the solution to life’s problems (especially when it comes to the challenge of losing weight) but if you’re after a flatter stomach, consider ditching beer for tequila. Milk Tiger Lounge is one authority on cocktails and this is where you’ll find El Diablo, made with good quality reposado tequila, crème de cassis liqueur and ginger beer for sweetness. Just so there’s no confusion, drinking this cocktail won’t give you washboard abs. You’ll also find a bar full of great tequila at the tequila specialists, Añejo.

EVIL TWIN BEER If the thought of giving up beer is just too much to deal with, don’t beat yourself up. Calgary loves craft beer and Evil Twin’s latest selection is wickedly good, especially the “I Love You With My Stout.” Found in many local liquor stores, it packs a sinful alcohol punch at 12 percent with lovely notes of gingerbread, chocolate and marmalade. There’s nothing more delicious or gratifying than sipping on one of these after yoga.

THE A-BOMB EXPERIENCE For a hot dog joint akin to something you’d expect to see in a Judd Apatow flick, Tubby Dog is where hipsters, karaoke lovers and the wiener elite unite. If you’ve come this far, there’s no point scrimping. Go for the A-Bomb hot dog loaded with cheese, the usual hot dog fixings (mustard and ketchup) and potato chips for good measure. The initial task of lifting this hot dog to your mouth might double for the kettle bells you were planning to lift at the gym later on.

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

Black Pig Bistro in Bridgeland is one place to go for this particular item, which is served with a tomato and olive oil-rubbed baguette. And since Ox and Angela on 17th Ave. specializes in the food of Spain, you’ll also find Mr. Iberico there. If you really need to comfort yourself about dining on this, remind yourself that ham is gluten-free. As with any delicacy, you can expect to pay a bit more for this. Take my advice – skip buying those new running shoes and splurge on jamón Iberico.

MAC ‘N’ CHEESE SPECIAL When you see mac and cheese on a menu you might overlook it based on some distant memory of your dorm room diet, but don’t be afraid to travel back in time. FARM’s bubbling and slightly spicy mac and cheese is a far cry from the processed version you once cooked over a hotplate. Made with not one but several kinds of cheese, it makes you want to lick the bowl. This is comfort food at its best.

A CHOCOLATE MASTERPIECE Chocolaterie Bernard Callebaut makes a pretty good argument for eating chocolate any time, especially when there’s mention of salted caramel. Made in Calgary, the sea salt caramel collection is a labour of love and the foodie’s version of collecting stamps. Like finding a rare collector’s item, you’ll want to examine each individual chocolate like a prize before biting into the chocolatey salty goodness. If anyone grinds you about buying yourself a Callebaut copper box, you can explain that you’re sticking to the 100-mile diet.

STILTON CHEESECAKE Hailed as the “restaurant worth the drive,” NOtaBLE serves the ultimate dessert that catches you off guard in the best way possible – it’s like winning the cheese lottery. Served in more of a savoury style than the typical cheesecake, this sharp-tasting concoction is perfectly complemented by the sweet, slightly tart rhubarb compote on top. If you’re worried about the calories associated with such indulgence, you can always jog beside the car on your run back to the inner city. If you see a woman in workout gear devouring this cheesecake as you leave, please wave – it’s probably me. ✤

Caitlin Best is a local food and drink enthusiast. Find her work on notable.ca and in several local publications. You probably won’t see her at the gym.

Photo: Paul Zizka

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Capture a landscape. Or be absorbed by one. Ski, snowshoe or stay in and pursue new extremes of comfort. Our rustic mountain lodges energize the body and settle the soul.

Elev. 1,463 m Looking toward Mount Rundle, Two Jack Lake, Banff, AB 20 min from Buffalo Mountain Lodge

crmr.com CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

CALLING ALL

kids can cook

back-of-the-house RESTAURANT COOKS! Ever wondered what a fresh baguette tastes like from a Paris bakery? Or how tuna is prepared by the sushi chefs in Tokyo? Or why Morocco is is often called the spice capital of the world?

City Palate can help you further your culinary education with a Culinary Travel Grant to help pay for your travel and expenses. For details on how to pitch us, on where you’d like to go and what you’d like to learn, go to

citypalate.ca Deadline for entries is March 20th, 2015 We look forward to hearing from you soon.

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

Pierre Lamielle

LUMBERJACK FLAP JACK STACK

stockpot

STIRRINGS AROUND CALGARY

restaurant ramblings n Congratulations to these talented Calgary foodies who have been chosen as finalists for Western Living magazine’s Foodies of the Year 2015, “up-and-coming western Canadians who are reimagining the way we eat”: Alison Bieber, chef Black Pig Bistro; Dave Bohati, chef MARKET; pastry chef Karine Moulin, Hotel Arts; chef Jessica Pelland, CHARCUT Roast House; Gwendolyn Richards, author of Pucker: A Cookbook for Citrus Lovers; sommelier Brad Royale, Canadian Rocky Mountain Resorts. The results will appear in the March issue. n Selkirk Grille at Heritage Park serves a family-style Sunday supper, a 3-course, prixfixe menu featuring locally sourced organic ingredients. Also, the fun starts with Dinner & A Movie, a movie-themed 3-course, prixfixe dinner and viewing of a film in Gasoline Alley Museum: March 3 and 24, Mob Movie Madness; April 14 and 28, ‘80s Cult Classics. Reservations 403-268-8607 or heritagepark.ca. n Tango Bistro’s Staffmeal is a Monday night collaboration between two chefs, one from the Smuggler’s restaurant group and one guest chef, using one ingredient to create a unique 4-course dinner paired with custom cocktails created by a guest bartender, every other month, with proceeds going to a charity, club or faculty. Staffmeal is geared to Calgary’s hard-working industry staff, both Smuggler’s and city-wide. Find out what’s going on. Twitter: @yycstaffmeal, Instagram and FB: YYCstaffmeal. What a great idea! n Murrieta’s Bar & Grill offers Sundays full of wine, with a selection of wines for half price all day... you could even have good food with your wine! Go get ‘em! n Tropical Corner Latin street food is scheduled to open at the end of February at 1424 - 17th Ave. SW. In addition to offering authentic dishes to share, the restaurant will be a celebration of Latin street culture, drawing on the vibrant colours and lively vibe of a street party. n Girls’ Night Out at Il Sogno celebrates International Women’s Day with a night of cocktails and a 3-course dinner menu, Friday, March 6th at 6:30 p.m. For details, call 403-232-8901 or email manager@ilsogno.org. n In March and April on Tuesday and Wednesday evenings Gaucho Brazilian Barbecue puts fruit on the grill and Rodizio offerings including pineapple, banana and pear. Mmmm, we love grilled fruit. brazilianbbq.ca n The very pretty and tasty Heartland Café in Okotoks has a new chef, Mandy Leighton, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of P.E.I. and the school of Holistic Nutrition. Leighton cooks food that is both tasty and nutritious. You’ll find fresh-baked bread every morning and bison meatloaf for dinner, among many other tasty offerings at 46 McRae St., 403-995-4623, heartlandcafe.ca n Model Milk brings the speakeasy to 17th Avenue with the opening of PDR, “Private Dining Room.” Model Milk’s chef and coowner, Justin Leboe, focuses on private and special events, so PDR won’t have set hours except for its weekly speakeasy, Model Citizen, that’s open Thursdays from 9:30

to Sunday from 10:30 am to 5:30 pm. Crush Pad recently received organic certification at its Switchback vineyard which is on site at the winery. In the summer months there will be a winery concert series. Visit okanagancrushpad.com for details.

wine, etc., wanderings

p.m. until late when you can enjoy classic hand-crafted cocktails and snacks. Located in the same block as Model Milk, PDR is available for private celebrations, corporate gatherings and a variety of pop-up dinners. No reservation is required for Model Citizen Thursdays. PDR/Model Milk, 300 - 17th Ave. SW., modelmilk.ca n Famoso Neapolitan Pizzeria launches its own house wines, Viva Vivo Vino. With both rosso (Tuscan Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon) and bianco (Tuscan Vernaccia), blends specially created to represent Famoso’s passion for wine, life and Italy, these wines are perfect complements with great pizzas. famoso.ca n Frustrated with the cab shortage in Calgary? Vin Room offers a designated driver program for guests – $20 to drive you and your vehicle home (up to 5 km). Available at both Vin Room locations. Get all the details at images.unoapp.com/boxdata/asset18541/ images/VinRoom_Driver.pdf n The ravens have landed at Corbeaux Bakehouse, ready to soothe your post-holiday ruffled feathers with all sorts of yummy self-indulgences! Such an array of delish breads and pastries. The café serves great food from chef Keith Luce – recognized by Food & Wine magazine as an American best new chef – such as cassoulet, duck wings confit and scallops with miso and grapefruit. Oh, yes, bring it on! Where Melrose used to be on 17th Ave SW.

n Don’t miss the largest tasting tour of California wines in Canada at Calgary Opera’s Discover California Wines Wine Fair, April 24 in the Palomino Room at the BMO Centre, Stampede Park. This is a fund raiser benefiting the Calgary Opera that features more than 400 premium wines from 150 of California’s top producers. Details and tickets at 403-262-7286, calgaryopera.com/winefair Calgary Philharmonic Orchestra’s Cork & Canvas events: March 3, Wine and Brunello Fest, Willow Park Wines & Spirits; March 10, La Chaumière Luncheon, La Chaumière restaurant; March 14, Wine Maker’s Dinner and Auction, Hotel Arts; March 19, Craft Beer Fest, Willlow Park Wines & Spirits; March 21, High Tea, Fairmont Palliser; March 26, Whisky Fest, Willow Park Wines & Spirits. Visit cpo-live.com for details about Art & Wine in Perfect Harmony. n When tootling in the Okanagan this spring or summer, check in with Okanagan Crush Pad Winery. Starting April 3 through to May the wine shop will be open Thursday

n Infuse Catering, Crowbar, and Christine Klassen Gallery have teamed up to create a monthly Bocce Night the third Wednesday of each month. There will be antipasto for nibbling, aperitivo cocktails for sipping and Bocce for playing. Think of it as a little bit of an Italian social club. Tickets are $20 and include the Bocce and food. Cocktails are extra. Details at crowbarcalgary.com

continued on page 46

Speed Skating Champion and Main Dish Athlete

Denny Morrison says... EAT LIKE A CHAMP! NOT LIKE A CHUMP!

n Cornerstone Music Cafe invites you to Jazz in the Burbs every Friday evening. With a tasty menu at your fingertips, a great atmosphere and Calgary’s best jazz musicians you can’t go wrong. Details and reservations at 403-278-3070, facebook.com/ CornerstoneMusicCafe n River Café invites you to enjoy a special Friends & Family Rate of $95 on the 5-course Fish & Game Tasting Menu through the end of April. Take your family and loved ones to Easter Weekend Brunch. Reservations essential. Open throughout the holiday weekend and all day on Easter Monday. river-cafe.com n Roots and Shoots, Slow Food’s annual celebration of spring, returns to River Café. Chef Andrew Winfield welcomes guest chefs – Dominique Moussu, Cassis Bistro; Andrea Harding, Brava Bistro; Jonathan Sobol, FARM; Aviv Fried, Sidewalk Citizen Bakery; Mathieu Paré, Boxwood – and mixologist Dewey Nordhoff, Brava Bistro, to collaborate on a local and seasonal menu. Sunday, April 12th. Details and tickets at roots-and-shoots-2015.eventbrite.ca and slowfoodcalgary.ca

n Calgary International Beer Festival, presented by Sobeys Liquor, is the biggest beer festival in Western Canada! Everyone will find a new favourite among the hundreds of local, national and international craft beers while sampling tasty food from more than 40 of Calgary’s best restaurants, pubs and eateries. BMO Centre Stampede Park, May 1 and 2. Get tickets at albertabeerfestivals.com

www.tmdish.com

403-265-3474

n Boxwood serves Easter Sunday Supper. Its weekly local Sunday Supper menu celebrates Easter with a special spring menu served family style. boxwoodcafe.ca n The Vintage Group has opened a sandwich market in Bow Valley Square – Butcher and the Baker – headed up by chef Darren Lexa, formerly partner and chef at Briggs Kitchen + Bar, to provide downtowners with wholesome quick-service food. And don’t we all love a good sandwich! Look for breads, baked goods, hearty sandwiches and salads – a variety of breakfast and lunch offerings. Go get a good sandwich. butcherbakeryyc.com

Eat Fit...Feel Great! www.fitkitchen.ca A new healthy eating concept from The Main Dish, now open in McKenzie Towne

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

stockpot continued from page 45 n Mmmmm, this sounds good: Stone Brewing Co. Smoked Porter with Vanilla Bean, a limited edition offering that’s almost dessert with its vanilla flavour marrying well with the malt-driven chocolate and coffee nuances of the beer. Stone Brewing suggests you might try pouring it over a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream! n Co-op Wine Spirits Beer: Beddington location, Bins of Penfolds, March 6, $35; French Kiss, A Whirlwind Tour, March 6, Crowfoot, March 7, $25; Shawnessy location, Library Tasting, Vintage Wines, March 7, $45; Exclusive Drams Whisky Tasting, March 14, $65; Oakridge location, Wine and Truffles, March 14, Crowfoot, March 27, $99; Oakridge, Brunello di Montalcino, March 21, $65, Guess the Expensive Wine California, March 26, $25; Crowfoot location, What Grape is that?, March 28, $25. Details and tickets at coopwinespiritsbeer.com/events

n Why is Saskatoon micro-distillery Lucky Bastard Black Label Vodka and Black Label Gambit Gin called Lucky Bastard? Because the owners of vodka and gin feel like lucky bastards themselves. And some of us feel like lucky bastards too, especially if we’ve tested positive for “awesome.” The vodka is distilled nine times for good luck, exceptional smoothness, clarity, texture and taste. The gin is a new western dry-style flavoured with juniper, coriander, angelica root, lemon peel, anise seed, cloves and saskatoons – of course. Check liquorconnect.com to find out where you can find these Lucky Bastards. lbdistillers.ca

cooking classes

general stirrings

n At SAIT’s Downtown Culinary Campus: Rush Hour every Tuesday after work, $40; Herbs and Spices, March 11, $90; Soups and Stocks, March 18, $90; Butter Cream, March 21, $90; Advanced Cooking, March 23-April 20, $500; Cake Decorating, March 24-April 21, $315; Introduction to Cooking, March 25-April 22, $400; Pasta, March 26, $90; Chocolate, March 28, $120; Marinades and Rubs, April 9, $90; Baking Cakes, April 18, $120; Sushi, April 10, $90; Fondant, April 11, $90; Intermediate Cooking, April 11&18, $450; Advanced Knife Skills, April 22, $90. Visit culinarycampus.ca for all the details.

n Phil and Sebastian Coffee Roasters hosts Enrique Navarro Jr., a coffee farmer from Costa Rica, and world barista champ Hidenori Izaki from Japan, April 15. The event will feature a live coffee processing demonstration for washed coffee, honey process and natural process, which, to the knowledge of Phil and Sebastian, has never been done in North America. A tasting of these processing methods too... and more! It’s gonna be pretty darn interesting, so visit philsebastian.com to find out where and when.

n Meez Cuisine offers hands-on cooking classes hosted by chef Judy Wood who shows you the secrets of a professional kitchen. Meez’s cooking classes provide skills, fun and dedication to inspire in you a new love of cooking. Looking for a unique gift or party idea? Book a private cooking class. Visit meezcuisine.com for all the tasty details. n Poppy Innovations offers hands-on cooking classes for every age: Cook with Your Kids for kids 6+, March 21 or April 18 at the Calgary Farmers’ Market. A six-week Parent & Child Culinary program for children 9+ starts April 14 at the South Health Campus and May 6 at Calgary Co-op Crowfoot Centre. Vist poppyinnovations.ca for details and to register. n Nutrition and Culinary Solution: March 10, Culinary Bootcamp, Gluten-Free Baking, a hands-on class; March 31, Gluten-Free Whole Foods Cooking, a demonstration session with nutrient-packed foods. Register at nutritionandculinarysolutions.ca/upcomingclasses-events n The Light Cellar Superfood & Superherb Teaching Kitchen classes include Raw Chocolate Making, Fermented Foods & Drinks, Aromatherapy, 4 Essential Food Groups, Intuitive Eating, Men’s Health, Molecular Mysteries, Hormone Balancing, Sport Nutrition, Bone Broth, Dental Care, Women’s Health & Beauty with Nadine Artemis and more. For details and to register, visit thelightcellar.ca. n Cuisine et Chateau: Veggie Power, March 5 and April 8, $119; Cheese Making, Level 1, March 10, $119; Stocks & Sauces March 21, $119. NEW for 2015 - Wine Pairing Workshops; Tuscan Sun, March 13, Bubbles, April 22, $74; A Fish Tale, cooking and preparing fish, March 19, $119; Knife Skills, March 25, $119; Cooking Method Fundamentals, April 15, $129; Croissant Making, Flaky Viennoisserie, April 12, $134; Intro To Bread Baking, April 25. Register online at cuisineandchateau.com or call 403-764-2665. n At The Cookbook Co. Cooks: In March, classes include Global Kitchen-Vietnamese Cooking, French Farmhouse, Bread Making, Off the Menu of Black Pig Bistro, Charcuterie Making; In April, A Night Out-Couples Cooking Class, Father & Kid Cooking Class, Marvelous Macarons, Italian Farmhouse, French Farmhouse, Chocolate Workshop, Hearty Salads, Tagines and Other Mediterranean Stews, Pie and Pastry-Making Workshop. For the full calendar, go to cookbookcooks.com

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

n The 29th annual Easter Seals We Care Masquerade Ball coming down the highway on April 10, 6 p.m., Palomino Room, BMO Centre, Stampede Park, $175, $1,500 table of 10, masquerade costume or semiformal dress. The multi-course Venetian Masquerade Ball menu prepared by the Calgary Academy of Chefs and Cooks, then dancing to the music of Fun in the Front Seat. Tickets sell quickly. Details and ticket information at easterseals.ab.ca and go to “events.”

n Treat yourself to booze-filled chocolates, yes! Cococo’s Canadian Icewine Truffles, the first product in a new collection of liquid truffles. The deliciousness of worldrenowned Canadian icewine captured in a fully enclosed truffle shell. Icewine is the perfect complement to rich, strongly flavoured food, like cured meats and cheeses, and since it’s a dessert wine, it also pairs perfectly with chocolate. Serve frozen, cold (recommended) or at room temperature. Available at all Chocolaterie Bernard Callebaut Calgary stores and in Banff. n SAIT has successfully diverted more than 68 percent of campus waste from the landfill – one of the highest diversion rates in Canada for post-secondary schools. That number is expected to grow even higher as SAIT rolls out the latest green initiative on campus – organics recycling bins in staff kitchens. Organics recycling has been in full swing in the School of Hospitality and Tourism facilities for more than a year. While most of the recycling goes to the Waste Management facility in Red Deer, some of the compost material comes full circle and is used in the culinary garden and campus landscaping areas. n We do love our coffee, and now Kensington has new brews percolating at The Coffee Market, 1117A Kensington Rd. NW. Stop in for a coffee to stay or go or for a tasty tea if coffee isn’t your thing. And there are coffee products and equipment for your home. You’ll need a coffee soon, go check Coffee Market out. n On March 27, the 3rd Annual Taste of Bragg Creek gives Bragg Creek and area restaurants, personal chefs, and food and liquor merchants the opportunity to serve delicious food and beverage samples to all of us. It is also a fund raiser for the Bragg Creek Community Association in support of purchasing and updating equipment for Children’s Programming. At the Bragg Creek Community Centre, 5 - 9 p.m., 23 White Ave. To purchase tickets in advance and for details, visit braggcreekca.com.

n Canmore Uncorked, the award-winning food and drink festival, returns to Canmore, April 7-19, for 13 days of special set-price menus from 30 restaurants, fun culinary events – like a scotch whisky tasting and craft beer and wine tasting event – cooking courses and a long-table dinner. For all the tasty details, go to canmoreuncorked.com n When tootling through B.C., through Invermere, stop by the Artym Gallery to check out its spring lineup of shows starting March 21 with artists Roger Arndt, Neil Patterson, and Yvonne Reddick. The show opens at 10 a.m. and will be on the walls until March 27. April 18 is a Maya Eventov & Friends exhibition until April 24. Find it online at artymgallery.com n Bundtz is a boutique bakery that specializes in the modern Bundt cake in a choice of flavours and sizes, with a daily gluten-free choice. Catering is available. Free delivery in the Calgary area on all orders of four dozen or more. Mention the ad on page 33 for 20% off your order through May. Royal Oak Park Shopping Centre, bundtz.com n Built as a quality-driven, communityoriented mobile pop-up, Kaffeeklatsch is an owner-operated espresso and brew bar that expresses the delight of food culture using responsibly-sourced coffee from Rosso Coffee Roasters. Kaffeeklatsch is currently located inside the historic YWCA building on 12th Ave. SW, the oldest purpose-built, social service facility in Calgary. n Whether you need supplement and vitamin advice or a great idea for a gluten-free dinner Amaranth’s staff has you covered. Have you ever wanted that same advice at home? Having been part of the Amaranth family for the last eight years, Amy Buckman has collected nuggets of wisdom you’d expect from your local health food store and when you’re wondering what Amaranth would do, visit amaranthfoodsblog.wordpress.com n Knifewear, in Inglewood, has taken over the Knife Nerd Culture as marked by its inclusion in Alberta Venture magazine’s Fast Growth 50, an annual report on the fastest growing companies in the province. For nearly eight years, Knifewear has built a reputation with chefs and home cooks for carrying the best knives in Canada. Customers spend time “test-driving” knives and choose from more than 40 hand-made Japanese brands crafted from the best steels in the world. Many of these knives never leave Japan except to be sold at Knifewear. Good show Kevin Kent, Knife Knerd extraordinaire! n With gardening season just around the corner, brush up on your skills or learn new

ones. In March and April, Poppy Innovations hosts a Grow ‘n’ Learn lecture series featuring gardening experts and “how-to” sessions. It has garden plots for rent if you have limited space. For details and to check the other classes on offer, visit poppyinnovations.ca n The numerous features and benefits of camelina oil speak for themselves and have pushed it into mainstream use. Three Farmers Camelina Oil is one health trend with staying power. Three Farmers is a salad oil, cooking oil and healthy, Omega3 supplement wrapped up in a light, nutty, earthy coldpressed camelina oil. It’s widely available in Calgary – get some, you’ll love it. Visit threefarmers.ca/camelina-oil for details and where to find. It’s everywhere! n Seasoned Solutions culinary tours with tourmeister Gail Hall: Alberta Culinary Tour, June or July; Portugal, October; India, February 2016; British Isles, October 2016. Itineraries at seasonedsolutions.ca n Traditional Medicinals is a provider of herbal and wellness teas with some easy ways to help you relax and get a good night’s sleep. Easy Now is a blend of relaxing herbs like passionflower, chamomile, lavender and catnip. Nighty Night is about the passionflower that promotes rest and relaxation, along with other relaxing herbs, like chamomile, linden flower and hops, to create a mellow blend as a nighttime sleep aid. Find them at grocery stores, at Shoppers Drug Mart, London Drugs, Bulk Barn and most natural foods retailers. traditionalmedicinals.com

July 15 and concludes September 18. During July and August, the Pop-Up Markets operate Wednesdays and Thursdays; in September the Pop-Up Markets run Thursdays and Fridays. If you’re a vendor who’d like to be part of these markets, click on the Vendor Registration Page at YYCFarmersMarket.com. Share this link with other qualified vendors who can contribute to the positive communiSave Food, Sa ty atmosphere and retail selling opportunity.

learn how to make cheese from goat’s milk and plant a vegetable seed to take home.

n French Culinary Tours in the Perigord Region of France leave May 31-June 6 and June 7-13. Experience the luxury of a private XIV century château, a small intimate group setting, and unique gastronomic experiences with professional chefs as your hosts and guides. Contact Cuisine et Chateau at 403.764.2665 or info@cuisineandchateau.com. Details at cuisineandchateau.com

The Waste No

n If you love food, connecting with farmers, good meals and talking about global food issues, attend the the 10th annual National Meeting of Slow Food Canada in Montreal, April 22-26. This meeting brings together chefs, farmers, food lovers and food activists from Canada and the United States for five days of taste workshops, dinners, farm tours, galas and networking. The conference is $400, including transportation within Montreal, 12 meals, access to workshops and the gala. Visit terramadre.ca for details.

n This just in: A new cookbook by Cinda Chavich, formerly of Calgary, a writer and cookbook author, available beginning of May. Stay tuned, more on this book when we see it.

At last, carrot at

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n Thirteen Calgary Co-op communities will be the homes of 16 YYC Pop-Up Farmers Markets. Season 2 kicks off on Cookbook • May 2015 978-1-77151-111-7 • paperb ack • $29.95 8.25 x 10.5 • 288 pages • fu ll-colour throughout

Après!

Join us for Avec’s version of Happy Hour! Special Après Menu and Drink Specials, 4:30-6:00 Everyday.

n Noble Gardens Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) offers shares of its 6th summer harvest season. Half, full and customized shares are available. All produce is naturally grown, chemical-, pesticide- and herbicide-free. Vegetables are delivered weekly to three farmers’ markets. Contact your Farmers, Tim & Brenda, 403-393-2059 or nblgardens@gmail.com. Visit the website for details and to register for your share of the harvest: NobleGardensCSA.com

US ORDERS Publishers Group West / Perseus Distribution Phone: 800-343-4499 Fax: 800-351-5073 Email: orderentry@perseu sbooks.com International Email: intlor ders@pgw.com CANADIAN ORDERS Heritage Group Distributio n Phone: 800-665-3302 Fax: 800-566-3336 Email: orders@hgdistribution .com

Say CheeSe: Cheese, cheese and more cheese! Stop by for your cheese needs. Say CheeSe & regina’S fine meatS • CroSSroadS farmerS’ market Regina’S Fine MeatS: hams for easter, bone-in and boneless. Pre-order by calling 403-861-8719

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n The peeps living in the Britannia Plaza area are lucky to have their very own Village Ice Cream shop. Spring is coming down the highway, but who needs spring to eat good ice cream? Not us! More ice cream is always a good thing. n Aggie Days is celebrating 30 years of bringing the farm to the city, April 11 and 12 at Stampede Park. Calgary Stampede volunteers are bringing their dairy goats, wooly sheep, grain grinders, seeds and soil to help children understand where their food comes from. Chef Pierre Lamielle will show kids how to make a pancake. You can milk a cow,

praise for

“A must in simple, and manufacture also be doing

Thank you for your continued support, Calgary! Winner of Avenue Magazine’s 2015 Top 10 Restaurants. Winner of Where Magazine’s Best European Restaurant 2015. Congratulations to our Executive Chef Dilan Draper for winning his episode of Chopped Canada!

CONTEMPORARY

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PH 587.352.0964

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AVEC BISTRO

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

city palate

culinary crossword solution

JOIN US FOR

city palate’s FIFTH ANNUAL

THURSDAY, JUNE 18th, 7-10 PM 119 - 12 AVE SW

A FUNDRAISING EVENT IN SUPPORT OF

15 talented chef teams compete for the coveted “Divine Swine” trophy, sponsored by Alberta Pork, as they create delicious and original pork dishes, with Berkshire pork from The Farm with Good Food. And nothing pairs better with the perfect porcine than the perfect pinot! 7 boutique wine stores will pour an amazing selection of pinot wines from around the world. And you get to taste it all!

THE FARM

WITH GOOD FOOD

Plus... Enjoy a great silent auction; a fine wine raffle valued at over $2000; a Cappuccino King Coffee Cart; photos by Silly Booth; and live music by Simply Sinatra, featuring Rob Young. FOOD PREPARED BY CHEFS AT: Avec Bistro, Black Pig Bistro, Blink, Bonterra, Candela, CHARCUT, FARM, Hotel Arts, Nicole Gourmet Catering, Ox and Angela/ UNA, River Café, Rouge, Shokunin Izakaya, Swine & Sow and The Cookbook Co. Cooks. PINOT POURED BY: Bin 905, the cellar, Kensington Wine Market, Metrovino, Vin Room, Vine Arts and Wine Ink.

tickets available now

P U M P K I N I A P R U N E N L C A T E X S P A G H E T O Y A S R R U C I P O S C S O A N R T R U F F L E T C A I P Q U I N C E O D F O N D A L E G E O D U

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congratulations! There are 3 winners for this year’s Culinary Crossword. Danielle Bouch, M. Mcquaid, and Stephanie Garies

VISIT PASSIONFORPORK.COM FOR EVENTS THAT WILL KEEP THE PARTY GOING ALL MONTH LONG.

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

They each will enjoy a fabulous gift basket from The Cookbook Co. Cooks... including gift certificates for a cooking class, a copy of Calgary Cooks, and a delicious array of gourmet goodies!

THE COOKBOOK CO. COOKS

Celebrate Spring In B.C. Wine Country 6 quick ways with... British Columbia

Lemons are used all over the world in all sorts of ways. They are so versatile and have some remarkable properties – lemons will preserve food, cure seafood, tenderize meats, clot cream or eggs and, of course, delight our palates in dishes that run the full range of flavours from savoury to sweet. In March and April, lemons, for me, are the promise of spring. 1. Preserved Lemons

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These are used in many Moroccan and Middle Eastern recipes. The lemons become quite mellow and savoury after they have finished curing. It is a transformative ingredient for many dishes, most notably tagines. You can use any lemons that are available, but the Meyer lemon is the variety I prefer. Meyers are thin skinned and sweeter, with a slight floral tone. Wash and dry 4 lemons. Nip the tops and bottoms off to the flesh and quarter them. In the bottom of a quart-sized glass jar sprinkle 1 t. salt then press in 5 or 6 lemon quarters to make a layer. Sprinkle another 1 t. salt and repeat with the lemon quarters until the jar is filled to the neck. Be sure to really press the lemons in and add extra lemon juice, if needed, to ensure the lemons are covered with juice. Screw the lid on snugly and let stand on the counter for 3 days, turning upside-down a couple of times a day. Then refrigerate for a week before using them. Makes 1 quart. In most recipes, you will use only the rind and discard the pulp.

2. Chicken Salad With preserved lemons and pistachios, this is a main course salad I would typically serve with mixed greens and a simple pasta salad. Whisk together in a small bowl 1/2 c. yogurt, 2 T. mayonnaise, 1/4 c. white wine vinegar, 1 t. Dijon mustard and 1 t. salt. In a large bowl put 4 c. diced, cooked chicken, 1/4 c. preserved lemon rind, thinly sliced, 1/4 c. chives, chopped, 1/2 fennel bulb, shaved, 1 red pepper, julienned, and the dressing. Gently stir until well mixed and adjust salt, if needed. Garnish with 1/2 c. pistachios and some torn fennel fronds. Serves 4

3. Avgolemono Soup A traditional Greek soup thickened with egg, it’s one of the quickest soups I know and it is wonderful served either hot or chilled. This is my twist on it. Heat 4 c. chicken stock in a pot over medium heat with salt and white pepper to taste. Bring to a boil, add 1/2 c. finely sliced leeks and reduce the heat to simmer. In a bowl, whisk together 2 eggs and the juice of 1 lemon. Whisk in the hot broth, one ladle at a time, until the egg mixture is quite warm – about 4 or 5 ladles should do it. Now whisk the egg mixture vigorously into the pot of broth and bring back to the boil. Remove from the heat and stir in 1 c. sliced fresh spinach. Adjust the salt and pepper and serve garnished with chopped chives or parsley, if you like. When I serve this soup chilled, I omit the spinach, spoon the ceviche – the recipe that follows this one – in the centre and garnish with chives. So good! Serves 4.

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

Chris Halpin

LEMONS

4. Shrimp and Scallop Ceviche I like to use very small scallops and shrimp for this – it’s a textural thing for me. Ceviche is seafood of some variety that is citrus- and salt-cured and is popular in Latin cuisines. In this recipe, I have frenchified the ceviche. In a bowl, gently mix together 1-1/2 c. raw scallops (100-150 count), 1-1/2 c. raw shrimp (70-90 count), juice of 2 lemons, 1 t. salt, 1 t. Sriracha hot sauce, 1 garlic clove, crushed, and 1 T. fresh thyme leaves. Let marinate in the fridge for 3 hours before serving. This can be served as an appetizer, with endive or crostini, on top of a bed of greens, or as a garnish on a chilled soup, like an avocado velouté or the Avgolemono, recipe #3. Serves 4.

THE G A L L E T TO

collection

5. Lemon, Pepper, Parmesan Shortbread

recipe photos by Chris Halpin

This savoury biscuit has a delightful balance of flavours and simply melts in your mouth. In a bowl, put 2 c. flour, 1 t. white pepper, 1 t. lemon zest, 1/2 c. grated parmesan cheese and mix well. Add 1 c. soft salted butter and, with your hands, work the butter into the flour mixture until it’s smooth. Add the juice of 1 lemon and work the dough until it has been fully incorporated and has come back into a ball. Divide the dough into four pieces, and on a floured surface, roll each piece into a tube about two inches thick. Wrap each tube in plastic-wrap, and with your index finger and thumb, make an “OK” sign. Pull each tube through the “OK” sign to even out any “wobbles.” Chill the dough tubes in the fridge for one hour or freeze for later use. When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350°F., unwrap a tube and slice it into 1/2-inch-thick coins. Arrange them on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until they’ve turned a gentle gold colour. These are a showstopper when I use them as part of a cheese course – they stand-up nicely against flavourful cheeses and are great on their own. Makes about 40.

A T

D A L H O U S I E

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S T A T I O N

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6. Lemon Rose Posset This is a fascinating recipe –- a pudding that’s thickened by clotting cream with citrus and will only work with whipping cream. (If you try this recipe with half & half or milk, it will curdle into a terrible mess.) But this is fast, easy and reliable; it will work every time. In a pot over medium heat, bring 2 c. whipping cream and 3/4 c. sugar to a boil, stirring until the sugar has fully dissolved. Reduce the heat and simmer for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and stir in 1/2 t. lemon zest, 1/2 c. lemon juice and 1/4 t. rose water. Gently stir to fully incorporate, then stir 10 more times. Ladle into ramekins or decorative glasses and chill for at least 2 hours before serving. When ready to serve, drizzle 1 t. cream around the edge of each one and garnish with your fave fresh fruit. Move over crème brûlée! Serves 4 to 6. (Find rose water at Mediterranean groceries and specialty food stores.) Chris Halpin has been teaching Calgarians to make fast, fun urban food since 1997 and is the owner of Manna Catering Service.

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

city palate nov-feb 2014 TCC_Layout 1 2014-10-03 3:52 PM Page 1

your local cheesecake specialists.

last meal I’ve always had a love of spicy food. Perhaps it’s the endorphin rush, but I get cravings for that kick of heat. On occasion, I’ve come home from work and covered a piece of bread with hot sauce just to satisfy that craving, which leads me to the chicken stew I’ve created for this column’s main dish. It bears some resemblance to chicken cacciatore but has a kick of heat from the chiles and hot sauce. The black olive/sun-dried tomato tapenade makes for a simple starter from ingredients many of us have on hand and for dessert there is a rich and easy brown butter/berry tart.

Serving great food, drinks and desserts for 25 years.

7600 Macleod Trail SE · 403-255-7443 www.cheesecakecafe.ca

I found a taste of Paris at Ratatouille Bistro

Black Olive And Sun-Dried Tomato Tapenade 1 c. black olives, pitted 1 c. sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained 3 T. flat-leaf parsley 2 T. high quality olive oil 1/2 t. ground black pepper zest of 1 lemon, finely grated or chopped 1 T. capers

Place all ingredients except capers into a food processor (or chop finely and blend) and pulse just until the mixture is well combined but still a little chunky. Transfer to a serving bowl and fold in the capers. Serve with baguette slices or crackers. Serves 4 to 6.

Classic French fare with a touch of Morocco at Elbow Drive and 49th Avenue SW in Britannia Plaza. enjoy the flavours of france on elbow drive!

829 49 AvEnuE SW • 403.719.1942

CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

Wine Recommendation Cline 2013 Ancient Vines Zinfandel, $28 The spice is the challenge here; a zinfandel would be a nice match as it’s one of the few red wines that can stand up to moderate heat. The Cline – which hails from California’s Contra Costa County – is reasonably priced and widely available, a spicy red with lots of bright berry fruit.

Geoff Last

KEEP IT SIMPLE AND SEASONAL

Spicy Chicken Stew 1/4 c. olive oil

Berry Tart With Brown Butter Filling

1 fryer chicken, cut up, with thighs separated from legs and breasts split into 4 pieces

Crust:

3 T. hot sauce, such as Frank’s or Sriracha, if you want more heat

1/3 c. sugar

1 onion, chopped 2 medium carrots, peeled and chopped 2 celery stalks chopped 1 T. dried chile flakes 1 c. dry white wine 1 28-oz. can San Marzano tomatoes, crushed 1/2 c. pitted and coarsely chopped black olives

7 T. (3-1/2 oz.) unsalted butter, melted 1/4 t. vanilla extract zest of one medium navel orange 1/4 t. cinnamon 1 c. plus 1 T. white flour pinch of salt

Filling: 1/4 c. white sugar 1/4 c. brown sugar

1/2 c. chopped fresh basil

2 large eggs

Preheat oven to 375°F. Warm the olive oil in a large Dutch oven. When it’s hot, add the chicken pieces and brown on all sides (you may need to do this in two batches), setting the browned pieces aside. When the chicken has cooled slightly, add the hot sauce and massage it into the chicken pieces. Add the onions, carrots and celery to the pot and cook the vegetables until lightly browned over medium-low heat, about 15 minutes. Add the dried chiles, season with salt and pepper to taste, and cook for a few minutes to incorporate flavours. Add the wine, increase the heat to medium and cook until most of the wine has boiled off. Add the tomatoes and chicken pieces, stirring to combine, then cover and cook in the oven for about a half hour.

pinch of salt

Remove the pot from the oven and return it to the stovetop. Remove the chicken pieces – which should be fully cooked and tender – and cook the sauce for about 10 minutes at a brisk simmer to thicken. Return the chicken pieces to the pot and add black olives and chopped basil. Serve in bowls over basmati rice or buttered noodles. Serves 4.

1/4 c. white flour 1 t. vanilla extract 1/2 c. (1 stick) unsalted butter, diced 2 6-oz. containers fresh raspberries (blueberries or blackberries can easily be substituted)

For the crust: Position a rack in the centre of the oven and preheat to 375°F. Using a rubber spatula or fork, mix melted butter, sugar, vanilla, orange zest and cinnamon in a medium bowl. Add flour and salt and stir until incorporated. Transfer dough to 9-inch-diameter tart pan with removable bottom. Using fingertips, press the dough evenly onto sides and bottom of pan. Bake crust until golden, about 15 minutes (crust will puff slightly while baking). Transfer crust to rack and cool in pan, gently pushing down puffed areas if necessary. Maintain oven temperature. For the filling: Whisk the sugars, eggs, and salt in medium bowl to blend. Add flour and vanilla; whisk until smooth. Cook butter in heavy small saucepan over medium heat until deep nutty brown (do not burn), stirring often, about 6 minutes. Immediately pour browned butter into glass measuring cup. Gradually whisk browned butter into sugar-egg mixture leaving most of the sediment behind; whisk until well blended.

Willow Park Village 10816 Macleod Trail South | 403.278.1220

www.compleatcook.ca

First crack at our crackling porchetta.

recipe photos by Geoff Last

Arrange raspberries, pointed side up and close together in concentric circles, in bottom of cooled crust. Carefully pour browned butter mixture evenly over berries. Place tart on rimmed baking sheet. Bake tart until filling is puffed and golden and tester inserted into centre comes out clean, about 35 minutes. Cool tart completely in pan on rack. Serves 6 to 8. Do Ahead: Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and store at room temperature. Remove tart pan sides. Place tart on platter. Cut into wedges and serve. Arrive early and enjoy our daily rotisserie feature. Walk-ins are always welcome.

Geoff Last is the manager of Bin 905.

403.288.4372 NOtaBLEtheRestaurant.ca CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

back burner SHEWCHUK ON SIMMER

Gentle for your family, gentle for the Earth. 1995

Celebrate Earth Day every day with family friendly products from Seventh Generation Available at your local Amaranth store. Earth-friendly choices available at

2015

Allan Shewchuk

TAKE MY CAR. PLEASE!

Travel has changed. Sometimes for the worse, like how terrorism has made going through security about as much fun as having a colonoscopy. Or how the advent of AIR MILES has meant that trips that were the domain of the “jet set” are now available to people who have never even been out of their own neighborhoods, with the result that you now see tourists walking the streets of Paris or Rome with ballcaps and bum-packs instead of the latest high fashions. These days, you can be forgiven when you’re at the Louvre for believing that you’re in a beer lineup at a bonspiel. The positive thing about this new access to travel is that it’s easier to go to far-off lands and experience the people and culture firsthand. Personally, I have acquired a new perspective on Central America, Eastern Europe and Africa and have overcome my ignorant prejudices by setting foot in places I had only seen on the National Geographic channel. In my experience, there’s no substitute for actually being there when it comes to learning about the world. Indeed, I’ve found out that the same goes for traveling in our home and native land. No matter what you think you know about this Canada of ours, you cannot say you really appreciate any place until you’ve lived and breathed it. My great eye-opener as a Canuck came a couple of years ago in the last province I had yet to visit, that isolated rock called Newfoundland. Growing up in Alberta, I rarely met a Newfoundlander, but I had a sympathetic bond with them because, being a Ukrainian prairie boy, I had to endure being the butt of many stupid ethnic jokes. You know, such lowbrow humour as – Q: How many Ukrainians does it take to eat a porcupine? A: Two. One to eat, and one to watch for cars.

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As I grew up I realized that whenever Canadians told one of these idiotic jokes, if they didn’t have a specific race to slander, they would just slide in a reference to Newfoundlanders. Perhaps this was because islanders belonged to the last province to join Confederation and therefore were considered quasi-immigrants. In my experience, this theory doesn’t hold much water because even my friends from the other Maritime provinces poke fun at Newfoundlanders. Never having been to The Rock, I needed to find out for myself what the people who inhabited the “far east” of our country were really like. And so off we traveled to St. John’s for the first time and, upon arrival, ended up in a bistro on Water Street. It was past lunchtime and the place was empty, but we’d settled in for some wine when an older local couple came in and did the same. After a short while, we started up a conversation and soon we were having a drink together as they told us of all the “must see” places and “must do” activities in the area. They were a goldmine of information and gave their time so freely that we picked up the tab. After we thanked them and started to head out, the husband asked us if we had rented a car. When we said that we hadn’t, they blanched and sadly advised us that in tourist season, if we hadn’t booked a vehicle well in advance, we wouldn’t get one as there was a shortage of rentals on the island. We thanked them again for the further info and said we’d just figure something out. On that, we headed off to explore St. John’s.

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CITY PALATE.ca MARCH APRIL 2015

We had walked about 50 metres when the bistro door flew open and the wife yelled “Stop! Come back! You can have our car!” We went back and I advised them that I was an insurance lawyer, and since they didn’t know us (or our names), just handing over their vehicle was a very bad idea. They would hear none of it. The next morning they delivered their new SUV to our hotel and said, “Just throw the keys in at the airport and lock it. And, most of all, enjoy Newfoundland!” And so we did. I’m happy to report that for the rest of my travels in Newfoundland, every islander was as friendly as that first couple we met, that the scenery was divine and the food was over the top. My only disappointment was that I never got to sample the local porcupine. Next time I’ll remember to bring someone to watch for cars. Allan Shewchuk is a food writer and sought-after Italian food and wine guru. He currently has kitchens in both Calgary and Florence, Italy, but will drink wine pretty much anywhere.

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The Compleat Cook 232 Willow Park Village 10816 Macleod Trail S 403-278-1220

Zest Kitchenware 131 – 5005 Dalhousie Dr NW 403-286-5220