Explore Guyana 2010

2010 EXPLORE GUYANA

The Official Tourist Guide of Guyana 2010

FREE

Nature’s Gift To The World

2|

EXPLORE GUYANA

CONTENTS EXPLORE GUYANA is published annually for the Tourism and Hospitality Association of Guyana (THAG) in association with the Ministry of Tourism, Industry and Commerce and the Guyana Tourism Association (GTA) by: Advertising & Marketing Services Ltd. (AMS) P.O.Box 101582, 213B Camp Street, Georgetown, Guyana Tel: (011592) 225-5384 Fax: (011592) 225-5383 E-mail: mail.amsguyana.com Publisher & Editor: Lokesh Singh lokesh@amsstlucia.com Advertising Sales: Lokesh Singh Adrian Pryce Jessica Xavier Susannah Morgan Leisa Waddell Graphic Design: Mensah Fox, Donald Brower Editorial Contributors: Lokesh Singh Kirk Smock Colin Chandra Treina Butts Shyam Nokta Teri O’ Brien Dr. Vindhya Persaud John Gimlette Dr. Raquel Thomas Wanderlust Magazine

INTRODUCTION 7 President’s Message 8 Minister of Tourism Message 10 THAG Welcome Message

EXPLORE GUYANA

Cover Photography: Contributing Photography: Conservation International FotoNATURA Iwokrama Centre Guyana Tourism Authority Dr. Raquel Thomas Ashley Holland | G. Duncan David Fernandes Capt. Mike Charles Annette Arjoon Mensah Fox Kirk Smock Julie Zickefoose Ken Wilson Pete Cosgrove John Gimlette Wanderlust Magazine

12 17 18 20 22 26 28 31 35 40 48 56 68 72 77

Guyana’s Green Gold Map of Guyana City Map of Georgetown History of the People Who Came A Festival for Every Reason Georgetown Enjoy it our Way Georgetown A Walking Tour Diwali in Guyana Guyana’s Interior - An Experience of a Lifetime Dancing with Ants Guyana - In God’s Garden Mind the Candiru - Unearthing Guyana’s Wildlife The Irresistable Kaieteur Falls Wings to Treasure Birding Eden

ABOUT GUYANA

© Copyright 2009. Reproduction of any material without the permission of AMS is strictly prohibited.

84 86 89 91 92 92 94 97

AMS and THAG wish to express sincere thanks and appreciation to all parties who have assisted in making this publication a reality.

Country Facts Government Travelling Money & Business Accommodations Georgetown Accommodations Eco Resorts THAG Members Services Calendars of Events 2009/10

ON THE COVER Leatherback Turtle Nesting at Shell Beach

ADVERTISING & MARKETING S E R V I C E S LT D.

4|

EXPLORE GUYANA

EXPLORE GUYANA

| 5

to Guyana

President’s Invitation

His Excellency Bharrat Jagdeo PRESIDENT, Republic Of Guyana

W

elcome to Guyana, a pristine rainforest paradise that offers an unforgettable and unsurpassed experience. The natural beauty of my country with its extensive flora and fauna, diversity of species, stupendous mountain ranges, majestic waterfalls and vast savannahs is surpassed only by the legendary hospitality of our people.

I invite you to explore our country, from the coziness of our capital with its numerous historic buildings to the vast depths of our interior with its intricate web of well established jungle trails offering visitors a glimpse of nature’s serene face and secrets.

Guyana is an environmental haven. Having adopted a low carbon development path, we intend to demonstrate that our greatest wealth emerges from our diverse cultures and peoples, our natural resources, intact ecosystems and the environmental services these can provide. Our endless cover of lush green forests, scenic landscapes, diverse wildlife and indigenous communities will provide an enlightening experience of how the rainforest can be effectively deployed in addressing climate change while providing sustainable development to our people.

This development is being harnessed through the many infrastructural investments that have been made by my government. We have a vast network of roads, bridges and air services that facilitate travel throughout Guyana.

I hope that you will enjoy your stay in Guyana and that having experienced our breathtaking beauty and unmatched hospitality that you will come again.

Bharrat Jagdeo President of Guyana

EXPLORE GUYANA

| 7

Guyana

Come experience

Guyana – the Amazon Adventure. It is the ultimate destination for nature lovers, eco-tourists and the adventurous traveller. Experience the warmth of our people, our culture, our foods, our heritage, our rich nature adventure product and participate in exciting events such as the Rupununi Rodeo, the Bartica/Mainstay/Orealla Regattas, Rockstone Fish Festival, Jamzone Summer Events, Motor Racing, Pakaraima Mountain Safari or simply relax on the No. 63 Beach.

Hon. Manniram Prashad, M.P. Minister of Tourism, Industry and Commerce

New and exciting tourism developments are emerging in our country. Guyana is a safe haven for yachts and a new and off the beaten path destination for small to medium sized cruise ships. Bird watching is one of the most popular eco tourism activities in Guyana and we have carved a new niche that is gaining widespread international attention and we are now being described as the “hot new” neo-tropical birding destination.

We are a model of Community-based and indigenous tourism which have been the recipient of international awards and recognition. Agro-tourism is another niche market which offers our visitors a farm based experience. Guyana is also known as the “Craft Capital of the Caribbean” as we produce a wide variety of intricate handmade craft made out of indigenous materials.

Be sure to visit the Kaieteur Falls, the longest single drop waterfall in the world which continues to attract thousands who long to get a glimpse of its sheer beauty and a touch of its magical mists. Guyana offers a wealth of options and experiences from bird watching, wildlife spotting, sport fishing, canoeing, mountain climbing, hiking, trekking, shopping, culinary and indigenous experiences.

Guyana is fast emerging as a Meetings, Incentives, Conferences and Events (MICE) destination with modern-day conference facilities to comfortably accommodate large functions such as Summits, Seminars and workshops, makes it a great MICE destination.

Guyana’s nature resorts, pristine forest, picturesque views of the many waterfalls, the warmth of our people combined with our strategic geographic location, makes it the ideal business and pleasure destination for corporate meetings and events, Prestigious travel publications and travel writers have ranked Guyana among the “Top 10 Wild Adventures in Latin America” and “Five Best Wildlife Retreats in the World”; while others have described Guyana variously, as the “Next Big Neotropical Birding Destination”, “A journey into the Jurassic” and as being “In God’s Garden”. Come experience Guyana for yourself.

Hon. Manniram Prashad, M.P. Min. of Tourism, Industry and Commerce

8|

EXPLORE GUYANA

Welcome to Guyana A

Paul D. J Stephenson President

Paul Waldron Vice President

very warm Guyanese welcome to all our readers of this 2010 edition of Explore Guyana magazine. I am very excited about this year’s production and trust that it gives you a representative insight of the beauty and choice of activities which await you in Guyana.

If you are considering visiting our unique country, I hope the vision which you get from our magazine will encourage you to visit us very soon. Experience for yourself some of our great Hotels or interior Lodges or book a tour into our formidable interior, where a feast of nature awaits you.

If you are reading this in Guyana, I welcome you and hope you are enjoying your trip, and that Explore Guyana will encourage you to further explore this beautiful country and feel the wonder of Guyana’s people and our unique culture.

I am pleased to introduce our team at the Tourism & Hospitality Association (THAG) who are responsible for helping me to promote and develop our unique tourism product whilst at the same time ensuring your vacation to Guyana will be your most memorable.

I would like to thank our existing members and previous executives for all their efforts and hard work over the years and look forward to encouraging as many new members who currently supply products and services to our sector to join our association in the immediate future.

Guyana’s President Jagdeo’s Low Carbon Development Strategy has recently brought international attention to the beauty of Guyana’s forests and the importance of preserving them for the world and future generations. I ask you all to join us in Guyana in supporting this creative initiative.

Thank you for spending time with us and please come back again. If you’re considering visiting us here in Guyana please don’t hesitate, just come and experience all that Guyana has to offer. I hope you enjoy reading and using your copy of the Explore Guyana Magazine.

Paul D. J Stephenson President Tourism & Hospitality Association of Guyana ( THAG).

Treina Butts Executive Director

Mitra Ramkumar Treasurer

Coiin Edwards Committee Member

Dee George Committee Member

10 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

Abdoul Ba Committee Member

Guyana’s Green Gold

by Shyam Nokta

T

ales of the fabled El Dorado, the city of gold, have for centuries dazzled explorers around the world and the lure is there again with Guyana moving to tap the full potential of its pristine forests.

These tropical rainforests cover almost 80 per cent of the country and are still largely untouched, offering untold natural wonders including breathtaking landscapes and myriad ranges of biodiversity.

The nine indigenous Amerindian tribes who have lived in the forests and on savannah lands for centuries, have maintained their cultures which have survived despite blends with modern society and tourists will find much to savour from visits to these communities.

Eco-tourism is also developing as an important aspect of the tourism sector. A lot of what Guyana can offer discerning tourists is unfolding in the country’s Low Carbon Development Strategy (LCDS) in which maintaining forests is a centrepiece.

Since 2006, the Guyana Government has been calling for bold action by rainforest nations and international partners to address deforestation as a key element in the global climate change efforts.

President Bharrat Jagdeo has stated that if the right economic incentives are created, Guyana would be willing to consider placing almost its entire rainforest under internationally verifiable protection, provided national sovereignty and the rights of all Guyanese are not undermined.

The impact of what the LCDS offers tourism, among other key economic sectors, was evident at the formal launching of the draft document on June 8 at the International Convention Centre, Liliendaal, Greater Georgetown.

After President Jagdeo’s formal presentation, Paul Stephenson, Chief Executive Officer of Cara Hotels, was among those very optimistic about the LCDS.

12 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

Kaieteur Falls in all it’s splendour

13 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

“I was very impressed by the initiative as presented by the President”, he said.

“I feel it will have very positive effects on Guyana’s tourism industry, hotels and eco-tourism activities. This will place Guyana on a new level of international acceptance in the green policies and any discerning eco-tourist will derive great comfort from such strong governmental policies”, he added.

The global eco-tourism market is about US$50 billion (or 6 per cent of the $860 billion general tourism market) but is growing rapidly (20-30 per cent per year).

The LCDS identifies tourism as a priority potential growth area.

Guyana has recognised that although standing forests provide enormous Economic Value to the World (EVW) through environmental services such as biodiversity and water regulation, in practical terms there is currently only one potential market of real importance for an environmental commodity – the carbon market.

The LCDS outlines the way forward and the international profiling of Guyana from its climate change leadership is helping to broaden its tourism appeal.

The groundbreaking work on avoiding deforestation and forest degradation has been recognised around the world and by reputable personalities including United States Secretary of State Hillary Clinton, Britain’s Prince Charles and actor Harrison Ford, and institutions like the World Bank and the Clinton Foundation.

It is also working with the government of Norway on a model that could set the standard for other forest countries.

This international high profile offers a good marketing tool for operators in the tourism sector looking for green tourism destinations.

“our gift of nature to the world” 14 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

Guyana is one of the last almost untouched tropical destinations and interest in it as a land to be explored goes back to the search for El Dorado beyond 1592 when Sir Walter Raleigh tried to regain favour with Britain’s Queen Elizabeth 1 by trying to discover the fabled city in her name.

Its mystery and allure also inspired Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s novel `The Lost World’ which also triggered movies that have become classics.

Raleigh set off on an unsuccessful expedition to find El Dorado but the LCDS can become the tool to unlock the vastness of the `green gold’ inherent in its pristine forests.

15 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

Fair View

Conservation International Concession

Rewa

EXPLORE GUYANA

| 17

18 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

EXPLORE GUYANA

| 19

A HISTORY

of the people who came 1593 -The earliest account of the territory of Guiana is made in a dispatch to the Royal Council of Spain in which the Governor of Trinidad, Antonio de Berrero, describes his journey down the Oronoco and his attempt to explore Guiana.

1594 -Sir Robert Dudley makes inquiries about the rumoured Empire of El Dorado when his ship puts in to Trinidad. A small boat is sent to investigate and its crew returns to say that the natives (Amerindians) had told them of gold mines so rich that the people of the country powdered themselves with gold dust.

1598 -The Dutch make their first voyage to Guiana.

1640 -Slaves arrive in the colonies from Africa.

1657 -A small Dutch settlement is established on the Pomeroon River.

Early Amerindian Family

1763 -The Berbice Slave Rebellion breaks out (at the time when Berbice is a separate Dutch colony). It begins on one estate, but soon spreads to others along the Berbice River. The revolt is the result of the cruelty with which the Dutch plantation owners have been treating their slaves, and it is led by a male slave called Coffy 1781 -War breaks out between England and Holland. The colonies of Demerara, Essequibo, and Berbice are taken by the English.

1783/4 - (a) The colonies are restored to Holland. (b)Long champs (established by the French) is chosen as the site of the new colonial capital, later to be called Stabroek. (c) The Dutch move the seat of Government for the Demerara territory down river to its mouth, where they begin to build the town of Stabroek in a geometrical 1763 Monument-A tribute to the African struggle ‘grid-iron’ system of streets, divided by canals in the manner of their home-country. (d) The Dutch build a series of sluice-gates or kokers at points where the canals meet the Demerara estuary. At high tide, the kokers form a barrier between the Atlantic Ocean and the canals. At low tide they are opened to allow the accumulated water from the land to flow away.

1796 -War breaks out again between England and Holland. The colonies are taken by England, for the second time.

1802 -At the peace of Amiens, Guiana is returned to the Dutch. English settlers are given three years to wind up their affairs, and to then leave.

1803 - War breaks out again between England and Holland. In September, Hood arrives at the mouth of the Demerara, and demands the surrender of the Colony. Guiana is handed over without fighting, never again to be returned to Holland.

1812 -The town of Stabroek is renamed ‘Georgetown’.

1814 -Demerara, Essequibo and Berbice are assigned to England during the Great Peace.

20 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

European Plantation Owners

1822 -The Town of New Amsterdam is laid out in Berbice.

1823 -There is a slave insurrection on the East Coast of Demerara.

1828 -The Public Buildings (now Parliament Buildings) are built Hadfield, architect. (completed 1834) 1830 -The 103 ft tall, red and white striped Lighthouse is erected at the mouth of the Demerara River (Water Street). It replaces the original wooden structure that was built in 1817 by the Dutch.

1833 -The Act of Abolition of slavery is passed. The slaves are not granted full freedom, but are bound to their masters for threequarters of each day for a period of seven years.

1835 -Portuguese labourers are imported to work on the plantations. (Almost one thousand immigrant Portuguese die from tropical diseases).

1837 -John Gladstone suggests East Indian indentured labour as a solution to the drifting of Africans from the plantations to the towns. Permission is granted to bring ‘Coolies’ for his two Parliament Building plantations.

1837 -While exploring what was then British Guiana, botanist Robert Schomburgk stumbles across a spectacular water lily of gigantic proportions. Stretching about six feet across, the lily-pad looks like an enormous pie plate and can easily support a coiled boa napping in the shade of its tremendous blossom, which boasts an expansive corolla that runs the gamut of pink between its pearly white petals, and bright red center. The chivalrous Schomburgk christens the future pride of botanical gardens “the Victoria Regia” in honour of the British sovereign.

1837 -Georgetown has its first Mayor and Town Council.

1838 -August 1st,”Full and unqualified liberation of the Negroes”.

1838 -The first indentured labourers drawn from the hill areas of India, arrive in Guiana. 156 East Indians arrive from Calcutta on the “Hesperus”. They are under indenture for a five year period, and for the first part, they are housed and given rations, but are not paid. Great mistreatment of the labourers result in prosecution of some of the planters.

1838 -Schomburgk discovers Mount Roraima.

Chinese Indentured Labourers 1838 -The Colony is divided by ordinance into the three counties of Demerara, Essequibo, and Berbice.

1842 -Georgetown is declared a city.

1843 -The end of the first period of indenture. Many of the labourers return to India.

The 1840’s - England suspends the indentured labourer system. Immigrant labour from India, Portugal (mainly Madeira) and China is permitted, under Government control.

1844 -Queen’s College is founded.

1848 -The Demerara Railway Company introduces the railway in British Guiana. The railway runs from Georgetown for 60 miles down the Atlantic coast to Rosignol on the Berbice River.

1853 - January 12th. The first contract Chinese labourers arrive in British Guiana on the “Glentanner”. Most are assigned to Windsor Forest, Pouderoyen and La Jalousie estates.

1860 - March 11th. The first female Chinese labourers arrive on the “Whirlwind”.

1864 - The Mahaica Bridge is opened.

1870 -Members of a geological survey team discover the Kaieteur East Indian Indentured Family Falls on the Potaro River in central Guyana.

EXPLORE GUYANA

| 21

city and villages to admire all the diyas and decorations. A major attraction today are the elaborate float parades which are unique to Guyana. See the special feature on Diwali in this issue.

Mashramani Action

CHRISTMAS is a major Christian festival

a Festival O

ver the centuries with the discovery of Guyana, the colonial powers imported labour originally from Africa then India, China and Madeira (Portugal) for the cultivation of sugar as the local indigenous people were not suited for this type of work. Guyana’s population of today is classified as being six ethnic groups who still practise the rich and diverse religious and cultural heritage of their foreparents to include festivals which are celebrated with great pomp and ceremony. The legacies of these cultures and their importance in today’s Guyana are shared with all Guyanese with public holidays being granted to recognise their significance. Be part of this unique cultural experience and plan your visit to participate in one or all of the many annual festivals.

Detailed below are some information on the various festivals celebrated annually in Guyana:

MASHRAMANI, often referred to as

“Mash”, is the equivalent of Guyana’s Carnival and is an annual festival that celebrates Guyana becoming a sovereign Republic on 23 February 1970. The first Mashramani festival was celebrated on Feb 23rd, 1970 in the mining town of Linden and has since become a major national annual event . There are spectacular costume competitions, float parades, masquerade bands, and dancing in the

For Every Reason

streets to the accompaniment of steel band music and calypsos. Masquerades frequent the streets performing acrobatic dance routines, a vivid reminder of Guyana’s African heritage. The Mash Day depicts a hive of activity in Georgetown from Vlissengen Road and lrving Street all the way to the National Park. Thousands of people summon to the streets to participate in the annual Mashramani celebrations, which has been a part of Guyanese culture for almost 40 years. In 2010, Guyana will celebrate 40 years as a Republic and Mash is expected to be bigger than ever.

Kite flying at Easter Celebrating Phagwah

Christmas in Guyana

PHAGWAH or HOLI – is a Hindu religious

holiday observed in March to celebrate the triumph of good over evil. It is also a Spring Festival celebrating the Hindu New Year, the beginning of another crop, the coming of the rainy season and is popularly known as the festival of colours. Hindus traditionally wear white on Phagwah day and indulge in the throwing upon each other of a harmless liquid called abeer. Abeer is a red dye which symbolizes the blood of the tyrannical King Hiranya who in Hindu lore ordered that his son Prince Prahalad be burnt to death for defying his wishes. The traditional burning of the ‘Holika’ on the night before is practised as the forerunner to the start of Phagwah day celebrations.

After attending services at the temples in the morning Hindus start their festivities 22 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

Diwali Float Parade

with the throwing of abeer, powder, perfume, and water on family, friends and neighbours in what is an amusing, goodnatured and joyful celebration. The festival is celebrated across the country by both Hindus and non Hindus and was originally brought to British Guiana by Hindus who arrived as indentured labourers to work on sugar plantations over 170 years ago.

EID UL FITR – Muslims celebrate ‘Eid ul Fitr following the month of Ramadhan (the month of fasting). Following a Lunar calendar, Muslims mark the beginning of the month with the sighting of the new crescent. The month long fasting of Ramadan culminates into the festival of ‘Eid-ul-Fitr, the Festival of Fast-Breaking.

It is a festival of joy, family reunion and thanksgiving to Almighty God. The giving of a special charity for this occasion is obligatory. This is known as Zakat. Muslims dress in holiday attire, attend a special community prayer in the morning, and visit friends and relatives. Greetings of “’Eid mubarak,” or “a blessed ‘Eid” are exchanged joyfully. Eid is generally celebrated annually in September at the end of the month of Ramadan which is confirmed with the sighting of the moon according to Muslim tradition.

EASTER – is a Christian religious festival

celebrated annually in April. Easter is a very popular time of the year as it symbolizes the resurrection of Jesus from the dead.

It is a period which always falls over a weekend and generates a lot of activities

and celebrations due to the long weekend always associated with it. On Good Friday all businesses are closed. Easter Sunday and Easter Monday is when all the fun starts. Imagine looking up into the sky and seeing hundreds of kites flying . Kites of all shapes, sizes and colors buzzing around and dancing to the wind in the skies, all make for a beautiful site. The kite season starts a few days before Easter. The kites are normally flown along the coast of the country and on the Sea Wall where the wind is strong and there are no overhead electrical wires. In addition families get together and travel to various parts of the country where they picnic in the parks and along the creeks and rivers.

DIWALI – or “The Festival of Lights” is a Hindu Festival brought by the East Indians and is celebrated annually in October.

Diwali is a celebration based on the return from exile of the great Hindu hero Rama as set out in the Ramayana , a holy book which is often read at Hindu festivals. He was the heir to the throne and was exiled by his father for fourteen years. Diwali celebrates Rama’s return from exile. It is celebrated in October generally and everyone in the Hindu household looks forward to it as Indian sweetmeats to include metai, halwa and other special foods are prepared. Around each house clay cups containing oil and a wick are arranged in beautiful patterns. These cups are called diyas. In the evening the wicks are lit. What a marvellous sight it is to see. People walk and travel around the EXPLORE GUYANA

| 23

in Guyana. At Christmas time, plans for making the famous “Black Cake” are put into works. “Garlic Pork” is another popular dish at Christmas. Normally a few nights before Christmas, the older folks start going from house to house and sing carols. There are lots of eating and drinking at this time.

On Christmas Day there are exchanges of gifts between family members and friends.

Churches hold services and the people of the Christian Faith attend. Businesses and homes are decorated with Christmas lights.

It is also a major period of homecoming for Guyanese relatives and friends to visit from overseas making it a grand holiday to stay and welcome the New Year. Major family reunions and social gatherings are the order of the day. In addition the Government has organised the “Main Big Lime” as a major Street Party celebration taking place on all of Main Street in the capital city of Georgetown.

EMANCIPATION DAY – 1st August is celebrated annually as Emancipation Day. It was on 1st August, 1834, that full and final freedom was announced for all enslaved Africans throughout the British Caribbean.

Out of the abolition came the villages, the struggle of the trade union movement, the opening of the hinterland through the pork knockers, and the evolution of the Civil Service and artesian shops. Guyanese of African Heritage have been mobilised through the African Cultural Development Association with the hosting of an annual day of celebration at the National Park in Georgetown. Many people wear traditional African attire and attend an exhibition of historic African lifestyle and culture.

There is African food, singing, dancing and music at the National Park celebrating the heritage of their ancestors.

Emancipation Day Celebrations

GEORGETOWN Enjoy it Our Way

Stabroek Market, The Heart of Georgetown

Historic Buildings

Georgetown - Guyana’s Capital city is the heart beat of the country. It is also the seat of Government and the base of the financial and commercial sector. Originally called “The Garden City” it houses two botanical gardens and is laid out with wide tree lined avenues and attractive historic wooden buildings which are worth exploring.

On a daily basis it is teeming with people coming in from the outlying regions to go to work , school, do their shopping and to conduct general business in the original city center and business district of Water Street. In recent times Regent Street ( between Avenue of the Republic and Camp Street ) has significantly expanded as a major shopping area with the recent opening

of shopping malls which now offer a new dimension to the shopping experience.

In addition there are organised vendors arcades and the local markets. Between them all you are sure to find some excellent shopping at bargain prices.

The influx of persons to the city center and the increasing number of visitors has seen a significant growth in the number of restaurants, bars and clubs operating within Georgetown and environs offering a range of cuisine and entertainment reflecting Guyana’s diverse population and their rich culture. Whether your taste is for Chinese, Indian, Creole or traditional dining there are a variety of options. Popular eating places recommended are as follows: 26 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

Vendors Fresh Fruit stall

Chinese Cuisine : New Thriving on Main Street and Buddy’s Mei Tung on Sheriff Street.

Creole Cuisine: Sidewalk Cafe on Middle Street and German’s Restaurant on New Market Street.

Traditional Dining: Le Bistro 176 at Cara Suites, The Bottle at Cara Lodge, Browne’s Cafe at the Pegasus, Dutch Bottle Restaurant on North Road and Duke Lodge in Kingston. Reservations are recommended.

Should you wish to have a drink with friends you can visit any of the popular watering holes where you guaranteed to interface with locals having a popular local beer or internationally famous Guyana

rum and engaging in healthy and hearty conversational exchanges.

On weekends the city comes alive with local live entertainment and music for dancing where you can party into the wee hours if this is your style at the various hotels and nightclubs. Popular spots are: The Guyana Pegasus, The Duke Lodge, Le Bistro 176 Bar, Buddy’s Pool Hall, Bar and Nightclub, the Sidewalk Cafe & Jazz Club.

Hungry in the wee hours? There are a number of popular spots frequented by

locals for that early morning treat. Check with your local friends. You are sure to find some Bar-b-Q or other local delicacy.

Moving around in Georgetown is inexpensive with several taxi companies offering twenty four hour service. Rates average GY$ 300 in and around Georgetown.

Fares may be higher for late night service.

Most hotels have taxis operating at their premises or they will be sure to call one for you. Always use authorised taxis for your personal safety.

Enjoy Georgetown the city of bargains, variety and an abundance of fresh fruits and juices during the day and a hotbed of entertainment at night and all through the night if you choose.

Do not over indulge and if you drink – do not drive. Identify a designated driver.

Have fun and enjoy as we offer you the keys to our city.

Georgetown

TOUR MAP

INTRODUCTION Welcome to Georgetown and Guyana, on behalf of myself I do wish you an enjoyable stay.

I am Teri and I will be your guide for this City Tour. This tour will take you to some of the more well-known and architecturally significant buildings in Georgetown.

GENERAL HISTORY INTRODUCTION The Guyanese are pluralistic, ethnically, racially and religiously diverse peoples.

There are six major groups of people – indigenous Amerindians (who came to Guyana by way of Mongolia, centuries before Westerners reached these shores), Africans, East Indians, Chinese, Portuguese and Europeans. The Europeans are essentially Spanish, Dutch, French and English.

Most of the Africans, East Indians and Chinese were either enslaved or indentured servants who worked on Sugar plantations.

The major religions are Christianity, Hinduism and Islam. The Amerindians generally maintain their traditional beliefs based on tribal practices.

10

Guyana has a population of approx.

750,000.00 with a zero population growth, due mainly to migration. There are however approx. half a million Guyanese living as expatriates mainly in the United States and Canada.

Although English is the official language, an English based Creole is widely used.

The literacy rate is high, approx 90%.

11

10 12

11

12

UMANA YANA. 1 UMANA YANA means, “meeting place” in Wai-Wai. It was erected for the nonaligned Foreign Ministers Conference held in Guyana in August 1972. It was constructed by a team of Wai-Wai Amerindian, one of the nine indigenous tribes of Guyana. The height of the building is 50ft and occupies an area of 5300sq.ft.

The roof is thatched with dried leaves of the Troolie palm and held together 28 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

with mukru, turu and nibbi reeds. The posts are made of Wallaba, a native hardwood. Traditionally no nails were use in the construction of such a building. In 1992 the Umana Yana collapsed and was repaired by another tribe. The four tall Greenheart poles in front of the Umana Yana constitute the Liberation Monument to the African freedom fighters, and were erected in the Benab’s ground when the United Nations Commission of Namibia met in Georgetown in 1974.

RED HOUSE 2 Originally one of the larger plantation owner’s residences. Taken up the Government in the 1950’s, it became Dr. Cheddi Jagan’s residence between 1953-1957. He was Premier of British Guyana in 1961 to 1964. Dr. Cheddi Jagan was also opposition leader for 28 years and final became the president of Guyana in1992-1997. It has been totally refurbished and is now the Cheddi Jagan Research Centre.

ANGLICAN BISHOP’S HOUSE 3 Formerly Kingston, now Austin House.

Residence of the Bishop of Guyana.

This fine timber building dates back to the late 1842.Named after Guyana’s first Anglican Bishop, it is said that Bishop Austin’s nine children amused themselves by throwing object at passers -by; Rather than correct them, the tolerant Bishop moved the house further back from the street.

Many building in Georgetown have what is called Demerara Shutters similar to what you see on the windows’ of the Bishop’s House.

The flat section at the bottom of the shutter would have a block of ice placed on it, the breeze would then blow though the shutters and over the block of ice, thus providing a primitive means of air conditioning for the building.

PRIME MINISTER’S RESIDENCE

4

Built for Mr. Sandbach and later acquired by the Booker conglomerate which dominated the sugar industry.This was for along time owned by Bookers Bros.

A Walking Tour Plantation owners in British Guiana. The British Government as the residence of the British High Commissioner purchased it in the 1960’s to Guyana. In 1987 it was acquired by Guyana Government to be the residence of the Prime Minister. In its early day the tower was used to give notice of ships approaching the Georgetown Harbour. Legend has it that the Directors of Booker would watch the ships come in from his window, and that Captains, aware of this, would ensure that the port side of their ships were always well painted.

STATE HOUSE 5 This is the Official residence for the President of Guyana.

The State House dates back to 1858 it was the residence of our Governor; Governors’ General and until 1980, of our first President, Arthur Chung.

THE WALTER ROTH MUSEUM OF ANTHROPOLOGY 6 Next to the State House, this is a center for research into Guyana’s Amerindian communities. Named after a Dr Walter Roth a British doctor and geologist who was posted to Guyana in 1909 and developed by its first curator Dr. Denis Williams.

It displays Relics and artifacts of Guyana’s nine indigenous people.

The Cenotaph, or War Memorial.

The marble monument, about 4.5m tall, is a memorial to those who died in the first and second World Wars.

THE NATIONAL LIBRARY (CARNEGIE BUILDING)

7

The National Library, formerly known as the Georgetown Public Free Library, was opened in1909 at the corner of Main and Church Streets. Scottish-Born American philanthropist Andrew Carnegie, after whom the building was named, funded the Construction. It began with 5700 books, and 1500 members and one librarian.

ST. GEORGE’S CATHEDRAL 8 It is said to the world’s tallest freestanding wooden building at a height of 143 feet.

The current structure is the third Church and second Cathedral of St. George’s erected near this site. The first Church was razed to the ground, the second collapsed due to weak foundations and this, the third one was built in 1892.

This is the main Anglican Church in Guyana, and is constructed from design by Sir Arther Bloomfield, with the very strong Guyanese Greenheart wood and beautiful English Oat. Over the top of the Alter you will notice a Candelabra donated by Queen Victoria, which was later electrified.

Also to note are the intricate strained glass windows and the many scrolls on the walls depicting a great part of Georgetown’s early history.

Independence was granted from England.

The statue was re-instated its original position at the High Court upon the visit of the Queen Victoria’s granddaughter Elizabeth 2nd in 1994.

ST. ANDREW’S KIRK 11 One of the oldest Churches in Georgetown, St.Andrews Kirk. Designed by Joseph Hadfield, work began on its foundations in1811 and was not completed until 1818. Where we are standing here stood the first building in Georgetown the Brandwagt or signal station. Georgetown was originally known by the French as La Nouville Ville and by the Dutch as Stabroek.

The two guns in the grounds are from the Crimean War. It was in these grounds in 1966 that the Duke of Kent o behalf of Queen Elizabeth 2nd handed over Guyana to govern itself.

MONUMENT OF THE NON-ALIGNED MOVEMENT 9 The four busts on the concrete plinth represent the four founders of the movement Naseer, Nkrumah, Nehru and Tito.

There are made of bronze and the other of a plastic material. Just in front of the monument is a pool from which rise four jasper rocks. These were taken from the Ireng River in the interior of our country.

STABROEK MARKET 12 Half of Stabroek Market is built on land, which has been re-claimed from the river.

There has been a public market in this area since 1792, but the present building dates from 1842, it was expanded in 1881.

The Stabroek Market was built of cast iron and shipped over from Holland where it was made. The structure was originally intended for Georgetown’s train station.

This area of the city is called the Company Path Gardens.

During Colonial times, the ‘powers that be’ and elite forbid their children from visiting the market for fear of them being indoctrinated with ideas from the lower classes.

HIGH COURT 10 Another building designed by Cesar Castellani and built in 1887 of Tudor architectural influence.

The open verandahs flank its eleven courtrooms on both sides and the registries of the Supreme Court occupy the ground floor.

The statue of Queen Victoria was vandalized during the 50’s and 60’s (note the missing hand and nose) and was banished to the rear of the Botanical Gardens after EXPLORE GUYANA

| 29

Nowadays Stabroek is a hub of activity where almost anything can be bought.

I do hope you enjoyed this short tour with me. There are lots more interesting places to visit. Should you require a longer more detailed tour of our beautiful city, please do not hesitate to contact a local tour operator.

(See THAG Member Listings at back of magazine.)

Diwali in Guyana

By Dr. Vindhya Persaud

The Spectacular Festival of Lights Light is an important aspect of all our lives and often we only recognize the obvious forms derived from electricity and sunlight. Deepavali is an ancient Hindu Festival of Lights which celebrates the deeper meaning of light. Celebrated on the darkest night (Amawasya) of the Hindu month of Ashwin (October-November), the message of Deepavali is to eradicate darkness from the world filling each individual with self- illuminated light within. The differences of social standing, beliefs and wealth are forgotten, as the festival’s aim is to usher in rational thinking, wisdom, prosperity and ultimately equanimity and equality in society. Of all the Hindu festivals celebrated in Guyana, Deepavali is by far the most enthusiastically enjoyed by people of all walks of life; its magical and radiant touch creates an atmosphere of joy and festivity. It is firmly ensconced on the National calendar and all Guyanese look forward to the unique festivities and camaraderie associated with this festival.

Deepavali, a Sanskrit word literally translates to mean a row of light. It is sometimes shortened to the more popular Diwali. The little clay lamps or diyas represent each individual and the collective efforts of all to light the diyas is a powerful way of vanquishing ignorance that subdues humanity dispelling darkness from every nook and cranny of the heart and land.

Diyas are made of mud or clay and shaped by hand or molds. Families in Berbice and Wakenaam have been making diyas for generations to supply stores and individuals. Locally made or fancy imported diyas filled with wax candles, cotton wicks and ghee can be bought from religious stores around the country.

31 |

EXPLORE GUYANA EXPLORE EXPLORE GUYANA GUYANA

|| 31

Images of the Annual Diwali Float Parade How is Deepavali Celebrated in Guyana?

Deepavali, the festival of lights even today in this modern world is celebrated in the traditional manner.

In Guyana, weeks before the actual day, people clean their homes thoroughly, fast and prepare for Lakshmi Puja. Maha Lakshmi, the Goddess of prosperity, light and wisdom is worshipped at this time. Puja or worship is done by all family members on Diwali night in Hindu homes prior to lighting the diyas. In fact, the observances occur over a five day period. Two days preceding Diwali, one and then few diyas are lit to pray for longevity and to recognize the victory of Lord Krishna over the despot Narakasur. Many Hindus would also attend their mandirs (temples) on Diwali

day. Mandirs are scattered throughout the country and one can easily attend special Diwali puja wherever they find themselves on that day.

Homes are artistically and tastefully decorated for Diwali. Brightly colored torans (colourful hanging decorations) are hung from doorways. Intricately designed rangolis (coloured tracing with rice and flour) conspicuously placed in yards or entrances would greet visitors as they visit homes to exchange sweets and gifts. The traditional motifs used are considered auspicious and decorative. An Inter-faculty Rangoli competition is held every year a few days before Diwali at the University of Guyana.

Huge and elaborate patterns are made on large open spaces with coloured rice, flour and even embellished with glitter dust!

Houses twinkle with an abundance of

32 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

fairy lights creatively draped on every available surface perfectly complimenting rows and rows of tiny diyas strategically placed to remove every tinge of darkness.

There are special streets in some villages where every house is aesthetically lit and large groups of people would be busy lighting diyas to line the street and bridges of every home. Persons would continuously place the soaked cotton wicks and refill the diyas with oil to keep the lights blazing all through the night. Streets are lined with bamboo structures laden with diyas or festooned with electric lights. Passers by who flock the streets would be sure to receive little boxes or bags of Prasad (holy offering) or sweetmeats from the inhabitants. Take a drive through Sheriff Street, Campbelville, Lamaha Gardens, Parika on the West Coast of Demerara or along the

East Coast and East Bank of Demerara to view fabulously decorated homes.

The Festivities for Diwali Perhaps the most spectacular events which precede Diwali are the Guyana Hindu Dharmic Sabha’s countrywide motorcades. Many persons travel to Guyana annually to see this one of a kind parade each year. Designers, individuals, the corporate world and temple members would have spent weeks erecting huge, intricately lit steel and wooden structures, meticulously decorated and with flowers, yards of gorgeous fabric, glittering jewelry and elaborate backdrops onto various vehicles and huge low bed trailers. The result - a large number of stunning and breathtaking floats complete with thousands of lights of all kinds, extravagant designs and ornately dressed young people sitting still

for hours depicting the various forms of god. The floats crawl slowly along various routes much to the delight of thousands of Guyanese and tourists who throng the roads every year for a glimpse of this fascinating parade. The biggest motorcade held on the eve of Diwali (October 16th) leaves the Shri Krishna Mandir, Campbelville at 6pm, moves from Sandy Babb Street, Kitty into J.B. Singh Road, then along the Seawall Road; the perfect spot to sit and view the floats. With darkness as the perfect backdrop, feast your eyes on the fantastic floats as you enjoy the cool Atlantic breeze of the seawall and then make your way to the LBI Community Centre ground, East Coast Demerara to join thousands there for an entertaining cultural programme of dances, singing, skits and fashion. Make sure you sample tasty seven curry spreads, spicy achars with phoulori, potato balls and channa not forgetting an array of sweets to

EXPLORE GUYANA

| 33

make the mouth water; gulab jamun, barfi, pera. Why not take some home for the next day!

For those who want the full motorcade experience you can travel to Oceanview, West Coast Demerara, spend the day in Berbice and enjoy motorcades in Upper Corentyne and West Berbice, choose to stay on in Berbice for motorcades at the Albion Sports Complex and Canje Ground or take the ferry to the Anna Regina Community Centre Ground Essequibo for the motorcade there. Whatever you do, you cannot miss the biggest national event at this time of the year.

However, amidst all this frenzy of shopping, decorating and eating, the steady, burning lamp is a constant symbol of an illuminated mind and the triumph of good over evil.

Be sure to plan your visit to enjoy this Hindu Cultural Extravaganza.

Guyana’s Interior

an experience of a lifetime

By Kirk Smock

EXPLORE GUYANA

| 35

Our dugout canoe cut a silent swath through the milky brown water of Guyana’s Burro Burro River. Having just passed a curious wedge-capped capuchin monkey, we turned our attention to the screeching sounds of macaws. Then, as if we crossed some invisible perimeter, the trees erupted in primeval howling that enveloped us. A kingfisher shot off an overhanging branch, a box turtle slid from the bank, and we stopped paddling to look for the red howler monkeys that were announcing their presence – or protesting ours.

After the racket stopped, we continued to fish for piranha with handlines and beetle larvae that we collected from the seeds of the kokerite palm tree during an early morning hike. While scouring the forest floor for the seeds we stepped over fresh jaguar tracks bigger than our fists and peered inside giant armadillo burrows.

Once we found the kokerite nuts, we used a machete to remove the plump white larvae and had a taste: squishy, sweet, protein-packed snacks.

Jaguar tracks, screaming monkeys, piranha fishing, and grub goodies all make for a surreal day, but I found that in Guyana’s interior, surreal does not mean unusual.

Within Guyana’s interior, the Guiana Shield – the world’s largest remaining tract of intact rainforest – and the Amazon Basin overlap, creating one of the world’s most unspoiled natural wilderness areas.

monkeys from trees, day-glow orange Guianan cock-of-the-rocks dance, and Muppet-like tapirs walk amongst bird-eating tarantulas. In the rivers, black caiman and giant river otters swim with toothy red-bellied piranha, prehistoric catfish, anacondas, seven-foot-long arapaima, and electric eels charged with 500 volts.

Likely because Guyana’s interior remains so untamed (80 percent of the country is carpeted in pristine tropical rainforest), the vast majority of the country’s 760,000 inhabitants remain clustered along the more developed Atlantic coast, populating a mere five percent of the country.

Travel south from this coastal belt and you enter what is generally referred to as the interior.

Visitors to the interior can experience some of the world’s best Neotropical birdwatching, photograph rare wildlife, stay with an Amerindian family, or trek an unexplored jungle mountain. Those seeking more adventure can cross savannahs on horseback, swim with giant river otters, study black caiman, go on an epic river journey, or take a jungle survival course that culminates with two days alone in the forest.

Here, some of the world’s largest species thrive, including many that are endangered or threatened elsewhere. In the forests, jaguars and pumas stalk herds of peccaries, massive harpy eagles pluck

To explore the forest from above, the plane ride into the interior is often enough for many, but you shouldn’t miss the chance to stand atop one of the world’s largest single-drop waterfalls – Kaieteur

Sunset at Yupukari

Falls – as it dumps 30,000 gallons of water per second off a 400-feet wide and 741feet high rock face. And at the millionacres of protected Iwokrama Forest hike to the top of 1,000-foot-high Turtle Mountain for expansive views or enjoy a sundowner on the Canopy Walkway, which dangles 100 feet above the rainforest floor.

orphaned and injured giant river otters for their return to the wild, and offers visitors a hands-on experience. At Dadanawa Ranch expert guides lead guests on cattle round-ups with barefoot Amerindian cowboys and pull anacondas from swamps.

Need a break from the dark jungle? In the southwest of Guyana, the Rupununi Savannahs are 5,000 square miles of grasslands, wetlands, rainforest-covered mountains, and countless waterways that draw comparisons to eastern Africa, only with giant anteaters and jaguars roaming the plains.

The interior is also home to most of Guyana’s Amerindian population, and several villages are now offering excellent community tourism experiences.

The idyllic village of Surama offers village tours, birdwatching trips, mountain treks, jungle survival courses, and dugout canoe trips along the Burro Burro River. Fair View village has a butterfly farm where you can walk amongst hundreds of the colorful creatures.

Stylish Rock View Lodge has the Rupununi’s only swimming pool and some of Guyana’s best fruit juices. At Karanambu Lodge, Diane McTurk rehabilitates

Yupukari village has built upon a long-term ecological monitoring program for black caiman to create an ecotourism venture that invites visitors to join in nighttime re-

38 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

search that entails catching, studying and then releasing caiman. Rewa village has an Eco-Lodge that provides access to some of Guyana’s most remote wilderness and excellent catch-and-release sport fishing.

The Maipaima Eco-Lodge at Nappi is the only one in Guyana’s Kanuku Mountains, offering great access to a mountain range that is considered one of the most pristine remaining Amazonian habitats.

This is just a taste of what Guyana’s interior offers visitors. It is an undiscovered bastion of nature, wildlife, and preserved Amerindian cultures. The rainforests remain pristine and the biodiversity primordial. The time to visit is now.

Kirk Smock is a freelance writer based in Brooklyn, New York. He is the author of the Guyana guidebook, published by Bradt Travel Guides.

past towering buttress trees and under swaying palms; we stepped over endless deadfall, chopped through tangles of vines, and had ant dance recitals more than once. Spider, capuchin, and squirrel monkeys bounded effortlessly through the trees and macaws squawked unseen above the canopy.

with Ants

Kirk Smock

Suddenly the foliage thinned out and the steeply sloped forest floor leveled off. At the top we were rewarded with an amazing panorama of jungle-covered mountains that receded into the farreaching Rupununi Savannah of southern Guyana. For the past week we had been living under the thick jungle canopy where sunlight was sparse; seeing miles of blue sky filled with puffy cumulous clouds was sublime. The ceiling of flora became a carpet of treetops, raptors soared at eye level, and beautiful red-andgreen macaws finally came into view below us. The pain in my blistered feet and aching legs faded, and each and every burning ant bite became tolerable.

Hours later, on the long walk down, I considered asking Ian why he left the ant dance out of the jungle training prior to the trek, but then realized it’s more natural reaction than learned moves.

Still, two-stepping aside, the jungle isn’t unforgiving terrain, and before loading up our rucksacks and walking into its bowels it was necessary to acclimatize and gain a bit of knowledge. Ian Craddock, our trek leader who has been guiding trips through the remote jungles of Guyana for five years, was just the man for the job.

Even with the relative obscurity of South America’s oftenoverlooked English speaking country, it’s easy to see why Ian has chosen Guyana for his jungle trips. Guyana is roughly the size of Idaho, but has more rainforest than all of Central America. And with most of the 750,000 inhabitants living along the Atlantic coast (roughly 5 percent of the landmass), Guyana’s interior remains mostly unpopulated and undeveloped.

I

t wasn’t until we reached one-third of the way up the 3,000-foot peak in Guyana’s Iwokrama Mountain range that I was suddenly stricken by the need to dance. It was a foolish looking number that involved flailing your arms, stomping your feet, and slapping yourself silly. I performed it with such gusto—slap, slap, hop; slap, hop, slap—that Jon, watching from behind, sarcastically asked, “What’s the matter, ants in your pants?” I inserted an impressive spin between hops and rapidly informed him, “I’m doing the ant dance, the latest jungle craze; and the ants, thanks for asking, are in my shirt, not my pants.” I looked down and saw hundreds of the scurrying insects determined to defend their nests and told him it can be infectious. Sure enough, before I even had a chance to ask him to dance, Jon was moving to the same unheard jungle beat.

Some time later we came across the remnants of a trail, although I use the word trail lightly. There were faded machete marks on random trees but the foliage had grown back so thickly that our local Makushi Amerindian guides, Harold and Lawrence, had to keep their machetes in a constant chopping motion. The steep jungle climb took us 40 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

Within Guyana, we mainly stuck to the boundaries of Iwokrama International Centre for Rainforest Conservation and Development.

Guyana’s gift to the world, Iwokrama is a one million acre preserve set aside as a living laboratory for sustainable tropical forest management, ranging from eco-tourism to scientific research. It’s location within the Guiana Shield—one of four remaining mostly untouched tracts of tropical forests in the world—provides a perfect home to more than 1,500 species of flora, 200 mammals, 500 birds, 420 fish, and 150 species of amphibians and reptiles.

Our first two days were spent in the comfortable surroundings of Iwokrama’s River Lodge. We had beds to sleep in, cold beer at night, and we ate in a beautiful open dining room overlooking the sublime Essequibo River. Once our equipment was issued (necessary jungle gear, ranging from hammocks to mosquito nets, waterproof canoe bags to machetes, were supplied) we spent the time covering jungle hazards.

We discussed serious health problems like heat illness, dehydration, and broken bones, while covering the best ways to avoid them, but it was the threats that come from the forest 41 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

itself—and the numerous creatures within it—that made the biggest impact.

On land you have mammals including big cats like the jaguar, puma, and ocelot; monkeys, including the red howlers who fill the pre-dawn forest with eerie, prehistoric-sounding screams; there are also tapirs (locally called the bush cow), giant anteaters, giant armadillos, and oversized rodents, including the capybara, the world’s largest. But we were told the most menacing mammal is the whitelipped peccary, a stinky, noisy wild boar that can travel in herds of up to 200.

Besides mammals, there are the smaller, more bothersome creatures that include— but are not limited to—snakes (from the highly venomous labaria to obscenely large anacondas), scorpions, spiders, wasps, bees, mosquitoes, botflies, caterpillars (even they aren’t safe), centipedes, ticks, and ants.

Before having a chance to digest the land creatures, Ian casually moved on to rivers. Water threats include black caiman, a massive freshwater crocodile that can reach lengths of 15 feet; sting rays; sixfoot long electric eels packing 500 volts; toothy piranhas; and the tiny candiru, barbed parasites that are known to plant themselves in the urethras of swimmers who mistakenly decide to pee in the river.

Hearing the risks posed by the jungle’s inhabitants can certainly cause one to feel a bit of fear and trepidation, but we were quickly reminded that our chances of having a harmful encounter are slim. Jaguars are known to shy away from humans, piranha typically only bite if you’re bleeding, and venomous creatures like snakes and scorpions usually only attack if they feel threatened. Besides, most of the fear is overshadowed by a desire to actually see the creatures in their natural habitats.

From the Iwokrama River Lodge we piled into a boat and moved an hour downriver to a camp at the base of 900-foot Turtle Mountain. For three days we acclimatized and got into the rhythm of camp life. We learned how to set up our hammocks, mosquito nets, and rain tarps, discussed necessary chores ranging from cooking to digging latrines, and were trained in the art of the machete – your best friend in the jungle.

42 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

Besides providing you with a sense of security (real or imagined), the machete clears your path, helps to prepare food, chop firewood, build shelter, and even find potable water in various vines, bamboo, and banana plants. Swinging a 16-inch blade can be a bit intimidating at first, but it wasn’t long before I bonded with my new multi-purpose tool and quickly understood why it rarely left the hands of our guides, Lawrence and Harold.

Heading into the jungle without a local guide, is foolish, if not suicidal—it’s possible to get lost by straying too far from camp to relieve yourself, let alone trekking for miles. Besides, with a guide, you essentially have a living jungle encyclopedia. They are usually the first to discern a monkey in the trees, a caiman on the banks, a jaguar print on the ground, or an orange and black poison dart frog on the rocks; they know every tree, plant, and vine and what tangible use they have. And their relaxed nature in the jungle was refreshingly intoxicating, except when holding an upset snake.

Darkness comes suddenly in the equatorial jungle of Guyana. Within the trees, the time when day sinks into night is not a lingering moment of sun-dappled colors; your surroundings quickly turn from green to gray to an inky black that is quickly filled with the screaming sounds of beetles, the loud, back-and-forth croaking of frogs, and the rustling of leaves and snapping of sticks as nocturnal creatures begin to stir. Normally, you’re in bed shortly after the sun goes down, but our first night at Turtle Mountain found us venturing back onto the river, high-powered spotting torch in hand, in search of a little jungle nightlife.

At first my eyes were torn between the magnificence of the Milky Way overhead and the hopes of spotting eye shine on the dark banks lining the river, but as a thin layer of clouds moved in and muted the brilliance above, I resigned to searching for sets of red eyes in our beam of light. We saw the backsides of labba and agouti as they scurried away, scared by 43 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

the boat’s motor, but it wasn’t long before Lawrence stood in the bow, holding a fourfoot long corkscrew boa that he pulled from a tree. Moments later we hovered over a caiman frozen in our light. While staring at the eerie red eyes, razor-sharp teeth, and long, armor-plated body sunk in mud and covered by gnarled, thornladen vines and exposed roots, it seemed the years between present day and the prehistoric era were but a blip in time.

Back on land, the thick canopy of trees made for horrible stargazing, but as I swept my headlight across the ground, I noticed hundreds of twinkling lights. Upon closer inspection I realized I was seeing eye shine from hundreds of small spiders; it was an unnerving beauty, but no less captivating than the hidden stars overhead.

The following day we did the final phase of preparation for our trek by hiking to the top of Turtle Mountain, albeit without our 45-pound packs. We took our time on the climb, allowing Lawrence and Harold to transform the tangled mess of green around us into something more discernable.

Colossal greenheart trees, the source of one of the world’s strongest woods, stood next to equally massive wallaba trees, the bark of which is used to lash together shelters and make warashis, a type of Amerindian backpack. Scarred balata trees beckoned back to a time when their latexlike sap was quite valuable. Similar looking vines revealed distinct uses: karia and kapadula held pure drinking water; hiowee had a poisonous inner pulp that’s used in an inventive, if unfair, form of fishing; and nibi vines hung from treetops 100 feet above and made for perfect jungle swinging, a la Tarzan.

The top of Turtle Mountain provided a view of the Essequibo River, a shimmering ribbon twisting through the never-ending forest that stretched into the horizon where Guyana’s largest mountain range, the Pakaraimas, came into sight. From that height, the jungle appeared so impenetrable, that it was easier to imagine trekking over it—leaping from treetop to treetop—than through it.

We left Turtle Mountain camp and headed south to the base of the Iwokrama 44 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

Mountains, where we began our sevenday trek. It took us four hours to make our way from the roadside to the river at the base of the gorge. As opposed to Guyana’s larger, low-lying rivers like the Essequibo, the river in the gorge ran clear and cool amongst exposed rocks worn smooth by days of higher waters; towering trees lined the banks, straining for a taste of the sun’s rays that shone through the hole in the canopy above.

The next day, two hours further up the gorge, we came upon a large rock situated on the bank of the river and covered in an ancient petroglyph. The left-hand side of the carving featured an upside-down body with arms at the waist and legs spread.

To the right, attached by a cord, was a small head with two big eyes and an open, rounded mouth. It appeared to be the scene of a birth, but with no proper studies into possible meanings of the petroglyph, we began drawing our own conclusions.

We transported ourselves back thousands of years to when the carvings were done. Was this the spot of a sacred

birth? A place where people would come in search of fertility? The work of a man, full of pride, after the delivery of his first child? The general scenery around us— trees, rocks, river—certainly mirrored what the artist saw while chiseling into the rock. Did they intend the scene to last as long as it has? Was their world, as ours is today, obsessed with the unknown future, and they wanted to leave a permanent reminder of yesterday?

The petroglyph became a neverending metaphor that occupied my mind throughout the day’s walking, which ended when the river forked and we stood staring at two separate waterfalls. With cascading water in front and two steep mountains at our sides, we decided to set up a base camp.

From our camp, we spent one day antdancing our way to 3,000 feet and two more days following the river further up the gorge. The three-tiered waterfalls near our camp were so stunning that we spent hours on top, basking in the sun

and watching jungle life. Ants completed mysterious missions with determination; lizards casually feasted on bugs; electric blue morpho butterflies alternated between spasmodic flying and serene sitting; flies buzzed our heads, as they do; worms twisted through the soil; and trees fed off their fallen brethren.

wouldn’t end when we returned to the road where we began—we still had stays at two eco-resorts, along with an afternoon at 741-foot-high Kaieteur Falls, said to be the world’s highest single-drop waterfall, to look forward to—but I felt a pang of sadness when I thought about leaving this world behind.

Beyond the waterfalls we pushed through thick jungle and found a still, swampy section. There was no direct sunlight and everything was covered in subdued shades of green—the ground, the rocks, the trees, and the top of the water. As a dwarf caiman disappeared into the water and spider monkeys sprung through the trees, it all seemed too perfect to be real, too archetypal. But this was no movie set or Disney World ride, it was pristine nature beyond the reach of the human hands that so often destroy, only to try and recreate it again elsewhere.

The swamp was near the end of our push up the gorge; from there we would double-back and head out. Our trip

The jungle as a whole fascinated me, and I began likening it to a complicated lover who soothes inflicted pain with unnatural beauty. At least that’s how I saw it when, as I sat watching a dark green hummingbird hover over the swamp, I was embraced by ants and invited to another dance. This time I knew the steps and, with a whispered promise to return, began slapping and hopping my way out of the jungle.

46 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

Currently based in Brooklyn, New York, Kirk Smock is the author of the Guyana guidebook published by Bradt Travel Guides.

Should you wish to tour Guyana’s Interior, please contact a local tour operator.

(See THAG Member Listings at back of magazine.)

EXPLORE GUYANA

| 47

Guyana In God’s Garden

W

hen I arrived in Georgetown I found it in the grip of a good murder trial, and so I went along to watch. In one sense it was like a courtroom drama circa 1790. The accused, Blacksam and Buggins, were old felons who drank in taverns and ate saltfish and souse. Then, one day, they picked a Georgian quarrel with their neighbour and despatched him with a cutlass.

In every other sense, the trial was like a snapshot of modern life in Guyana.

Defence counsel was, like every third Guyanese, Indian (and spoke a rich Creole, well-larded with Dickens and Donne).

Another third of the populace, the Africans, were represented by the judge and the constables; the remainder, the mixed races, by the jury. In their 12 furrowed faces was the story of Guyana: slaves, Amerindians, ‘Chineymen’, Irish adventurers, Scottish cattlemen, pirates, pioneers and Pathans.

From cowboys to conservationists, cricketmad Indians to shy Amerindians, Guyana is a country of survivors. John Gimlette explores their little corner of Eden

Equally intriguing was the backdrop, which was all so lumpishly British. With its arches, wrought iron and corrugated gables, the Victoria Law Courts were a lingering fantasy of tropical gothic. There was even a statue of Victoria herself. She’d recovered her head, I noticed, after losing it in the squabbles over independence in 1961.

“Ask not for whom the bell tolls…” thundered the Indian, but the jury didn’t hear. The rains had come early and sounded like horses thundering on the tin. But somehow mercy survived and the verdict was manslaughter. Off went the prisoners, grinning through their chains.

“Yeah, man,” said the constable, “they been spared the noose…”

From the court, a beautiful city, as light as feathers, flutters off down the coast.

Perhaps – like its people – Georgetown doesn’t truly believe that it belongs here, and so it hovers over the water. It’s all built on canals and breezes, a city of stilts and clapboard, brilliant whites, fretwork, spindles and louvres. The streets are as wide as fields, and the cathedral seems to drift endlessly upwards, reputedly the tallest wooden building in the world. One area of the city is even called Lacytown as if, at any moment, it might simply take off and drift away – home, perhaps.

Water is a constant feature of the Townies’ lives. At high tide, the sea looms 2m above the city, held back by a wall. Concrete rots 48 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

EXPLORE GUYANA

| 49

here, and even cars seem to moulder. By day, the canals are velvety and green, and by night they’re operatic with frogs.

“Why? Why?” they sing, which makes the dogs all howl. Nature, it seems, is gradually reclaiming its inheritance.

dozen countries all stuffed into one. I even felt this as I walked across Georgetown; one moment I’d be passing Chinatown, then a mosque, and then a Mexican circus (‘With real tigers!’) before finally ending up in a festival of extreme chutney.

Among this riot of parrots and flamboyants, the Townies can still be fleetingly British.

Even now, you can buy a bottle of Nerve Tonic or a sausage roll at Fogarty’s department store. Other survivors include Hackney carriages, EIIR letterboxes and a pair of Sebastopol cannons. Once I even saw a large building site called Buckingham Palace, although – sadly – financing had failed before any resemblance took shape.

All this might not be so odd in a big city, yet Georgetown is tiny. There’s only one escalator in the whole town (it still draws a crowd), and the beautiful National Art Gallery receives just 20 visitors a month.

Everyone knows everyone, even the men who sell horse dung from their carts.

Almost all the old buildings are famous, sometimes for several things at once. My hotel, Cara Lodge – apart from being a masterpiece of Victorian carpentry – was once the home of the colony’s orchestra, the basketball squad and the communist party. During the rule of Forbes Burnham (1964-85), it was even used by the resistance movement as a base for making bombs.

Despite these trappings, however, the Guyanese are neither British nor truly South American but live in a world of their own. Sometimes it seems that being foreign comes so naturally to them that they don’t even understand themselves.

Originally, each race had its own political party. With a population of only 770,000, this often makes Guyana feel like several

Go west across the Demerara,” people said, “and you’ll soon see who built this country.”

It was not, I realised, the British. The clue was in the names, thickly clustered along the shore: Vreed-en-Hoop, Harlem, Uitvlugt and Tuschen. For well over half Guyana’s colonial history (from the late 16th to early 19th centuries), the Dutch were in command. Here, on the coast, they stripped out the mangroves, drained the mudflats and walled off the sea. It was a Pharaonic achievement, costing thousands of African lives. Even now, looking inland, the horizon is just a bold green curve of sugar cane; the coastal strip remains the home of almost 90% of Guyanese.

After an hour’s bus ride from Georgetown I came to the main artery of the Dutch colonisers’ operation. The Essequibo is the largest of Guyana’s four great rivers (the Demerara, Berbice and Corentyne run parallel, progressively further east), with a mouth big enough to swallow Barbados. It looks like a vast, rum-coloured sea, lavishly spotted with islands and spills of squeaky clean white sand. As each rocky outcrop blurred past, my boatman would sing out its story. “This was a leper colony…” he’d say, “and this one’s Eddy Grant’s…”

At the Dutch islands a few kilometres upstream we stopped and clambered into the jungle. At Fort Kyk-over-al there was nothing but an arch but, on Fort Island, a huge star fort, dated 1739, still loomed up out of the forest. Next to it was a large brick hall. This had been the seat of government for a wild land, only 4% of which the Dutch had ever seen. Although the Zeelanders called this the Court of Policy, it was really no more than a parliament of ants.

It was easy to see why the Dutch had loved the Essequibo. Everything seemed abundant, and even the birds – tanagers and tyrants – seemed to jangle like freshminted money. I stayed on a luxurious silvery river beach, once a Dutch camp and now a resort called Baganara. At first it seemed I was the only person who’d ever stayed there – except Mick Jagger (who’d left his picture over the bar).

Later, I moved further upstream and stayed in a Benedictine monastery. Every few hours the brothers’ euphonious chanting would lift out of the rubber trees and carry across the water. On the opposite bank

was another Dutch institution: probably the most beautiful prison in the world.

On the way back downriver I stopped at an old sugar estate called Wales. It employed 2,000 souls, including rat catchers and lady weeders. Meanwhile, the cane is harvested exactly as it had been three centuries before: charred first, cut by hand and then heaved into barges. It often felt as though the Dutch had never left, especially near their graves. “They’re haunted,” said my guide. “We never urinate here.”

But the Dutch have left more than ghosts.

Here, a sluice is still a koker and a wharf a stelling. Even better is their litter that still bubbles up out of the mud. In MetenMeer-Zorg, back on the coast, I stayed with Gary Serao, who rents out beds in his extraordinary museum. Among his ephemera I spotted manacles, 17thcentury wine jars, cannonballs and heaps of flasks for Zeeland gin. By 1800 the Dutch had become spectacularly debauched.

Their planters carried ivory whistles, and every day began with gin and ended with a slave-girl, all painted up like an Amsterdam whore.

Naturally, the early Guyanese had often risen in revolt. Even now their descendants have a healthy suspicion of authority. The slaves’ big moment came further southeast and 160km inland. Today it’s called Dubulay, a pretty ranch overlooking the Berbice River. Back in March 1763 this was Peerboom (Pear Tree), a plantation house besieged by 2,000 machete-wielding

50 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

EXPLORE GUYANA

| 51

slaves. As the Dutch fled for the river, the rebels butchered them. The remains of this struggle are still scattered along the foreshore: broken bricks, tiles, and shards of pottery and glass.

I followed the revolt all the way back to the sea. It was a sad and beautiful voyage. My boatman Bob Kertzious, descended from both the slaves and the slavers, knew all the landmarks of this bloody revolt: Juliana, Vigilantie and Dageraad (Daybreak). The region had never recovered. Even after the uprising was crushed, this, one of the richest settlements in the world, had simply reverted to jungle. We stopped only twice.

Once was to visit Bob’s parents, who lived in a hut decorated with rag mats, ships’ paint and an old Dutch bottle. The other stop was Fort Nassau. It looked almost exactly the same as it did the day the rebels sacked it, except now it’s being slowly prised apart by macaws and strangler figs.

Things looked very different on the Berbice coast. The walls of vegetation parted, and India appeared: I could see prayer flags and minarets. In New Amsterdam (which was like a mini Georgetown), I even found a curry shop, although the choice was bush hog, chicken or iguana. Unsurprisingly, it was the British who were responsible for this eerie infusion of Asia. With slavery abolished, from 1838 they began to import Indian labour. Over the next 80 years some 250,000 Indians arrived, becoming the predominant race.

The introduction of Indians to this, the old wild coast, has created a curious new culture. Eastern Guyana is now a hotbed of cricket (not to mention communists, giant pink elephants and grand sari pageants).

But it’s also a place that’s not quite like anywhere else in the world. Here there are Hindus in cowboy hats, halal snackettes (snack shops) and beggars with green parrots. Once I even spotted a petrol station called Vishaul & his Three Adorable Sisters. This was India, alright – but with a South American swagger.

For the rest of my Guyanese encounters I needed a plane. Beyond the coastal strip a vast forest begins, covering 80% of the country. For hundreds of kilometres it sprawls inland before spreading out among some of the oldest mountains in the world.

Somewhere in it, or beyond it, live the remaining 10% of the Guyanese people.

I loved flying over this forest. The canopy itself was so dark and dense that it felt like a journey through a long green night. The foliage seems to swallow everything – even waterfalls like Kaieteur, at 228m, loftier than the BT Tower (and undiscovered until 1870). Until the aeroplane age, Guyana’s interior was accessible only by river. Small wonder that it became the literary refuge of lost worlds (Conan Doyle), lost minds (Evelyn Waugh) and cities made of gold (Raleigh).

I had my first encounter with the people hidden in here at Iwokrama. For the Amerindians, it’s always been a special 52 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

EXPLORE GUYANA

| 53

well; now they manage 5,000 cattle, 34 staff and two bright-red macaws known as the ‘Terrorists’. Not that there is money.

The family lives in a delightful cemetery of Land Rovers, surviving on home-grown vegetables and the BBC World Service.

Each of their children they’d delivered by themselves.

The cowboys, on the other hand, are Wapishana Indians and sleep in barracks.

They all carried long knives like swords and rode brilliantly, barefoot and often bareback. The youngest, I discovered, was 12, and sang as he rode. One, a saddlemaker called Uncle Cyril, was descended from the long-extinct Atorad tribe.

place. Now it’s a 4,000 sq km forest with a research centre. There are little riverside huts for tourists and a village, Fair View, for the Makushi, an Amerindian tribe whose ancestors have lived in this forest for perhaps 10,000 years.

It seems an idyllic life. By day, we pottered round the forest, identifying cures for everything from ringworm (aromata) to diabetes (wild mango). The Makushi could be alternately shy and uninhibited, and every mealtime was a gathering of clans. It was like taking our own lives and stripping them of clutter: no chairs, no floors, no cash and no concept of time. “We like it here,” one man told me. “We got canes for our arrows, and plenty of monkeys.”

Later, as I moved further south to the edge of the forest, a more complex picture emerged. Although the Makushi village of Surama has its own breezy ecolodge with a view across the unknown, I opted to stay with a family. Paula has a tattooed face; Daniel is a hunter. They live on a beautiful hill in a house made of leaves. There was no water, no electricity, and nine of us slept in the hut. We washed out in the long grass and ate whatever Daniel caught.

“Life’s become harder,” he said, “since the jaguars killed all our horses.”

But if the temporal world seemed tough, the spiritual world was tougher. Makushi life is deeply infested with magic. There are supernatural boulders and trees that turn you grey. Later, in Yupukari, I met a

man who thought his brother had been drowned by a ghost – this in a village with a new American library and an exquisite boutique hotel for alligator lovers, Caiman House.

Daniel was unsure about the modern world and whether he wanted to join it.

On my last day he gave me a 2m bow with five arrows. “Take them back to London,” he said, “and then you’ll remember us whenever you use them.”

collection of war clubs, a tiny beach and a pet racoon. Diane has also raised more than 40 orphaned giant otters, two still in residence. Every day a bowman padded off down to the river, to shoot them a bucket of fish.

Beyond Surama the trees gave way to a vast, golden plain about the size of Scotland.

The Rupununi savannahs are home to the world’s biggest ants, biggest otters, biggest anteaters and most ferocious fish.

For the final leg of my journey I drove south for another two days to find wildness of a different kind. Dadanawa is like the Wild West, yet even more remote. At 4,400 sq km it’s the biggest ranch in Guyana, tucked away behind a massive ridge of jungle (the Kanuku Mountains) and a river the width of the Thames (and three times as long).

For the last bit of this journey my driver had to put our truck on a raft of oil drums and float it through the torrents.

Few Europeans have ever settled here.

However, some remained, and now they often take in guests. One was Colin Edwards, who’d built the road through the forest. (“Until then, Guyana leaned towards the Caribbean,” he told me. “I linked it to South America.”) He’d never stopped building, and now runs Rockview, an oasis of orchards and cottages, with a bar that sells bras and machetes.

The ranch was an unforgettable adventure.

Pretty soon even the Wild West seemed fluffy in comparison. Of course, there were the same big rivers, mountains and stampedes, but Guyana can also be brutally exotic. Almost every night jaguars attacked the cattle. Meanwhile, watching a roundup was like witnessing an extraordinarily violent sport in which no one – miraculously – gets hurt.

Another of the great Rupununi hosts is Diane McTurk. Her ranch, Karanambu, is on a riverbank, deep in the thorns. “I was born here in 1932,” she told me: “a wild child.” Although she’d been away (with a stint at London’s Savoy Hotel), Karanambu still feels like a wild childhood.

There are thatched huts, fruit trees, a

Everyone here lives an extraordinary life.

My hosts, the de Freitas family, slept (like me) in a sort of cricket pavilion on stilts overlooking the Kanukus.

54 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

With their hawkish faces and taut, athletic frames, it’s hard to believe they were from the same country as the coastlanders.

When my favourite, Orvin, was bitten by a snake, he simply tied a tourniquet round his arm and rode off to join his friends.

Perhaps none of this should surprise me.

This, after all, is Guyana: a garden built by God, inhabited by survivors and lived to the full.

Wild Guyana Guyana is fabulously rich in fauna, some of it brilliantly showcased in the BBC series Lost Land of the Jaguar. The country is home to more than 800 species of birds, with a list that sounds like an orchestra (piculets, cotingas, euphonias).

There’s also a relic of the dinosaur age – the hoatzin or canje pheasant – and one of the largest birds on the planet, the jabiru stork. Remarkably, this spectacle of feathers begins before you’ve even left Georgetown.

No less exciting are the mammals. South America’s largest cat, the jaguar, is relatively abundant wherever there are cattle (including Dadanawa and Surama), and is even regarded as a pest. Shy and elusive, however, your chances of seeing one are slim.

Other mammals are more obliging.

Almost any boat trip down the Rupununi will bring you eyeball to eyeball with the world’s largest rodent, the capybara. And at Karanambu you’ll almost certainly meet a giant otter.

They are descended from Portuguese immigrants who fled the great famine of Madeira in 1834. Guyana had suited them EXPLORE GUYANA

| 55

The reptiles may be less cuddly but they’re a fabulous sight. At Iwokrama, there’s a good chance of seeing snakes, and in Yupukari you can help tag caiman.

Last but not least is my favourite: the giant anteater. Palm-tailed and wombleheaded, it must be the oddest creature on the planet. You should be able to spot one out on the ranches.

Mind the Candiru

Unearthing Guyana’s

Wildlife

A

wake, I stepped onto the cabin’s patio as the sun was rising over the trees on the opposite bank of Guyana’s largest river, the Essequibo.

As the howlers quieted, golden rays bathed Iwokrama with a pre-day calm that seemed to resonate. A pair of screeching Scarlet Macaws eventually penetrated the silence and I watched their reflections on the river’s calm surface until a ten-foot black caiman glided by, rippling the image in its wake. Across the river the trees remained dark, faceless shadows robbed of details, yet full of secrets.

I knew enough about Guyana’s rivers and rainforests to realize that much of the morning’s activities were going on out of my view. On land, mammals are many and range from big cats like the jaguar, puma, and ocelot to playful squirrel, capuchin, and brown-bearded saki monkeys. There are also tapirs, giant anteaters, giant armadillos, oversized rodents like the capybara, and aggressive white-lipped peccaries, the smell-them-before-yousee-them wild boars that travel in herds of up to 200. That is to say nothing of the smaller creatures like poisonous and constricting snakes (bushmasters, labarias,

On my first morning at Guyana’s Iwokrama International Centre, prehistoric guttural rumblings and feverish screams jolted me from sleep. I half expected to see some horrible jungle creature hanging over me, but it was just the dawn chorus of red howler monkeys.

56 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

57 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

and anacondas among them), scorpions, spiders, wasps, bees, mosquitoes, botflies, centipedes, termites and armies of biting ants.

In the rivers there are stingrays, sixfoot long electric eels, many toothy and prehistoric-looking fish species, including the menacing piranhas and a one-inch parasitic catfish called the candiru that has been known to lodge itself in the urethras of urinating swimmers (removal involves surgery; it’s best not to pee in the rivers).

So it goes in Guyana, South America’s unlikely Caribbean destination. With a historical backdrop of British colonialism and a nation of English-speaking locals, the culture and people of Guyana are decidedly more Caribbean than Latin, but the tourism experience is a far cry from the turquoise waters and five star resorts of the islands to the north. What Guyana offers to visitors is largely unparalleled elsewhere in the world.

Within Guyana, part of the Guiana Shield – 2.5 million square kilometers of the world’s largest remaining tract of mostly undisturbed rainforest – and the Amazon Basin converge and create an enticing mix of ecosystems. Besides the rainforests that carpet roughly 80 percent of the country, there are exotic mangroves, wild coastal swamps, rugged Atlantic beaches, lofty mountain ranges and sprawling savannahs.

With 83,000 square miles and only 760,000 inhabitants who mostly live along the populated coast – a mere five percent of the landmass – the majority of Guyana is virtually unpopulated outside of the Amerindian villages home to Guyana’s indigenous peoples. What remains is one of the world’s most unspoiled natural wilderness areas that harbors a remarkable diversity of flora and fauna, including more than 225 species of mammals, 880 species of reptiles and amphibians, 815 species of birds and 6,500 species of plants.

58 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

That morning at Iwokrama, as I stared at the seemingly impenetrable forest, I realized that the ants, the cats, the birds, the monkeys, the trees – all of it – were part of an ecosystem that has been thriving for millions of years. Throughout the world, the human race has conquered and claimed for itself, but much of Guyana has remained untouched, and this is the reason to visit.

Much of Guyana’s flora and fauna can be experienced at ecolodges, resorts and villages throughout the country; those listed here are only a small cross-section of some of Guyana’s more well-known tourism regions and destinations and the key species that can be seen there.

The Jaguar Of Guyana

61 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

The Northwest The northwestern region of Guyana is filled with beautiful waterways, dense forests, rolling hills and wide savannas, and little tourism development. But Shell Beach, a 90-mile stretch of unspoiled Atlantic coastline where endangered sea turtles lay their eggs, is a reason for intrepid travelers to visit.

From March through August, Shell Beach is the nesting ground for four of the world’s eight endangered species of marine turtles: leatherback, green, hawksbill and olive ridley.

While male sea turtles typically never leave the sea, females used their paddle-like flippers to crawl ashore and dig a nest in which they can lay a clutch of around 100 soft-shelled eggs.

At Shell Beach guests are invited to watch the turtles nest from a rustic beach camp that is also the home base to a turtle conservation project.

The hosts are a group of reformed turtle poachers that now monitor the beach as ‘Turtle Wardens’ to protect their one-time prey, including the six-foot long and 1,000 pound leatherback.

Central Rainforests This region of Guyana loosely encompasses the Pakaraima and Iwokrama mountains, and includes two of Guyana’s tourism highlights: Kaieteur National Park and the Iwokrama International Centre for Rainforest Conservation and Development.

Isolated in the middle of the Pakaraima Mountains, Kaieteur National Park is home to the 741-foot sheer drop of Kaieteur Falls, the crown jewel of Guyana’s vast ecosystem. While the greatness of Kaieteur is certainly in the falls – at its peak, 30,000 gallons of water per second flow over a wall some 400ft wide – visitors shouldn’t miss the area’s fascinating microenvironments supported by the constant spray of the falls.

Birdwatchers come to see the Guianan cock-of-the-rock leks where the overly orange birds participate in bizarre mating rituals that involve calling and dancing for females. In the evening, visitors can also watch white-chinned and whitetipped swifts by the hundreds as they return to roost behind the falls.

62 |

Birds aside, two of the park’s more fascinating creatures are the prehistorically large tank bromeliads and the miniscule golden dart frogs that spend their entire lives inside the bromeliads’ leaves.

The terrestrial tank bromeliads, which have been known to reach nine feet in height, collect water in their upturned leaves, allowing the endemic frogs to thrive. Other highlights at Kaieteur include carnivorous plants and brilliant morpho butterflies, including morpho hecuba, whose eight-inch wingspan makes it South America’s largest butterfly, and the iridescent blue morpho.

EXPLORE GUYANA

At its core, Iwokrama is a one million-acre (371,000 ha) research project used as a living laboratory for scientific research, ecotourism, and sustainable tropical forest management. Located in the heart of Guyana, the Iwokrama Forest has an amazing cross-section of Guyana’s biodiversity, including 1,500 species of flora, 200 mammals, 500 birds, 420 fish, and 150 species of reptiles and amphibians.

One of Iwokrama’s many monikers is “Land of the Giants,” because it has healthy populations of some of the Americas’ and 63 |

the world’s largest species. While sightings are never guaranteed, Iwokrama is one of the best places to see the elusive Jaguar, the largest cat in the Americas, and the Harpy Eagle, whose six-foot wingspan and knack for plucking sloths and monkeys out of trees has earned the largest eagle in the Americas the nickname of ‘flying wolf’. Area oxbow lakes also have healthy populations of arapaima, the world’s largest scaled freshwater fish. These beasts, which can reach 3m in length and can weigh upwards of 440lbs, can be easily seen – and heard – as they belch and bubble on the surface while breathing.

EXPLORE GUYANA

Iwokrama also harbors many dank spots along rivers that seem too archetypal to be real. Bright orange and black poison dart frogs pepper rocks, emerald hummingbirds elegantly hover, metallic blue and green beetles shimmer, kinkajous sleep, and

squirrel monkeys pass through the sounds of screaming pihas, the birds that provide the most recognizable jungle soundtrack.

Unnaturally green swamps harbor anacondas, the world’s largest constricting snake that easily exceeds lengths of 20 feet and feeds on peccary, deer, capybara and

64 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

agouti. The elongated, trunk-like snout and mohawk of black hair on South America’s largest native mammal, the tapir (or bush cow, locally), are also seen loping along the banks.

The Rupununi Savannahs

In a direct contrast to the dense rainforests, the Rupununi Savannahs cover roughly 5,000 square miles of southern Guyana. They are one of the world’s largest open ranges of savannah lands, but they also encompass extremely biodiverse wetlands, rainforest-covered mountains, hundreds of miles of freshwater river systems and several Amerindian villages

and historical cattle ranches that also offer lodging.

The Amerindian village of Surama has an excellent community tourism experience that includes the chance to paddle a dugout canoe on the Burro Burro River. The silence of the canoes provides

EXPLORE GUYANA

| 65

a great opportunity to find birds and wildlife, including jaguar, giant river otter, howler monkey, spider monkey, peccary, tayra, macaws, herons, and kingfishers.

Depending on the season, it’s also possible to ask your guide to bring along a handline to fish for a few of the toothy red-bellied piranha or electric eel, which reach 6ft and

pack 500 volts, found in the river.

Karanambu Lodge, located along the Rupununi River, is well known for owner Diane McTurk’s giant river otter rehabilitation program. Giant river otters are often called ‘water dogs’ in Guyana, and their social and diurnal lifestyles have made them easy prey for hunters after their fur. When Diane is rehabilitating orphaned or injured otters for their return to the wild, guests have a chance to get up close and personal. Depending on your comfort level around wild animals with razor sharp teeth, visitors can swim with the otters and hand feed them piranha.

Karanambu also offers a good chance to spot two of Guyana’s stranger creatures: giant anteaters and capybara. With a long nose, bushy tail, length of 3 feet, and a shuffling gait exaggerated by the fact that they walk on their knuckles, giant anteaters are unmistakable when seen. Regularly spotted along the river, the world’s largest rodent, capybara, has a stocky body with a large square head, webbed feet and arched, rounded rump.

Karanambu is also home to a healthy population of Guyana’s national flower, the Victoria amazonica. The largest of the giant water lilies, the flower’s stalks can reach lengths of 7-8m with leaves that can grow up to 3m in diameter and support the weight of a baby. At dusk the lily’s flower slowly opens to a brilliant white bloom before increasing their temperature and emitting a strong odor to attract a beetle that pollinates them. Two days later the flower blooms again, vibrant pink in color.

Not far from Karanambu on the Rupununi River are Yupukari Village and Caiman House. A highlight of a visit here is the “Creatures of the Night Tour,” which begins just after darkness settles on the river and many creatures emerge like black caiman, spectacled caiman, tree boas, iguanas, frogs, bats, nightjars, possums, tree dwelling rodents and capybara. Sleeping monkeys and birds are also often seen.

Visitors can also participate in ongoing black caiman research overseen by the community. Guests can observe caiman, the world’s largest alligator that can reach lengths greater than 15 feet, being captured and then assist in data collection – weighing, measuring, sexing, tagging 66 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

– once the caiman is pulled to shore and secured. It may be your only chance to handle a live black caiman.

At Dadanawa Ranch, a multi-textured cattle ranch that was once the largest in the world, expert guides lead guests in search of anacondas, big cats, giant river turtle, goliath bird-eating tarantulas, and the endangered red siskin bird. If the wildlife isn’t exciting enough, head out with the vaqueros to round up more tame beasts: cattle.

This is only a taste of what a visit to Guyana can entail. Guyana has a tourism offering that is unfortunately increasingly rare in today’s world, and it is the reason to look beyond the beaches of the typical Caribbean vacation.

Currently based in Brooklyn, New York, Kirk Smock is the author of the Guyana guidebook published by Bradt Travel Guides, and Senior Writer for the USAID Guyana Sustainable Tourism Initiative.

The Irresistable

Kaieteur Falls

T

he spectacular sight of the horse shoe of the Falls first appears into sight, shaded from above by an umbrella of wispy clouds and partially hidden by the thick rising foam from the Gorge below. As the plane makes the turn, preparing for descent and landing at the Kaieteur airstrip, a view of the majestic Kaieteur Falls appears before you. Simply breathtaking!

“When [the] flight [gets] close to the fall. It’s very beautiful because of the view degree” – Visitor from China to Guyana who heard of Kaieteur Falls via the internet.

THE KAIETEUR FALLS is undoubtedly the crown jewel of Guyana’s interior. With a sheer drop of 741 ft and a total height of 822 ft, it is one of the highest waterfalls in the world and is reputed to be the highest single-drop waterfall in the world. Amerindian legend has it that Kaie, one of the great old Patamona Chiefs committed self-sacrifice by paddling his canoe over the falls to appease Makonaima, the Great Spirit, in order to save his tribe from the savage Caribisi tribe. Some still believe that the face seen on the left side of the Falls, as if carved into the mountain side, is that of Old Kaie. This folklore has served as the basis for the legend of Kaieteur which is world renowned. Up until the 1800s Kaieteur was known only to the Amerindians. The first European to see Kaieteur Falls was a geologist, Barrington Browne, in 1870 and whose recount of his travels and discovery paved the way for many subsequent visits by early Europeans and the area being set aside for protection.

The splendour of Kaieteur Falls has often overshadowed the other attributes of the wider Kaieteur National Park which is situated within the middle Mazaruni region, a highland region of Guyana known for its forest covered mountains, rivers, waterfalls and rapids. The geographical features of the wider area support a unique nature habitat with a mix of dense tropical forests and open savannahs. Plant and animal collection and research have still not 68 |

scratched the surface of Kaieteur. Recent research has revealed a number of new species of frogs and lizards endemic to Kaieteur.

The Smithsonian Institute has spent many years studying plants at the falls area and species collected around the area number 1100 species with 22 being endemic to Kaieteur, and this still remains an underestimate of the total number of species of the Park. Indeed, Kaieteur National Park is home to a host of rare and endangered species as well as unique landscapes and forest types.

Most notable are those which occupy the immediate environs of the falls, the rarely seen Cock-of-the-Rock (Rupicola rupicola), and the Golden Frog (Colostethus beebei) which spends its entire time within the giant Tank Bromeliads (Brocchinia micrantha).

Under the vast shelf of rock on the face of the Falls lives flocks of white-chinned and white-collared Swifts (Cypseloides cryptus) which can be seen during the late afternoons. Kaieteur remains Guyana’s premier tourist attraction and conservation site.

In 1929, The British Colonial Administration designated an area of the Potaro River, including the Kaieteur Falls, as a National Park. The Park, covering a 45 square mile area was established principally for the preservation of the natural scenery, and the fauna and flora of the area and at that time, was one of the first protected areas established in South America.

Today, the Kaieteur National Park covers an area of 224 square

EXPLORE GUYANA

miles, approximately 62,700 hectares.

There once were no human settlements within the National Park, the nearest community being Chenapau, situated some 30 miles on the Potaro River, upriver from Kaieteur.

However today, two communities fall within the boundaries of the Park; Chenapau, with a population of approximately 250 persons is a Patamona community with a close cultural linkage to the Kaieteur area and the transient settlement of Menzie’s Landing that developed next to the Potaro River.

Unlike many other Parks and Protected Areas, Kaieteur, though well known, is remote, accessible mainly by light aircraft.

Visitors may also travel to the Park via the overland route, facilitating longer stays and a casual pace to truly explore Kaieteur and its wonders. These guided overland packages are available using a route that traces back to the journey the first Europeans made to discover the magnificent Kaieteur Falls. Throughout the journey, one can easily imagine the emotions they may have had over a century ago, as little has changed in the interim.

The five day four night round-trip journey begins with an eight hour bus trip to the small interior town of Madhia. The next three days are dedicated to trekking overland until you reach the bottom of Kaieteur Falls where a challenging climb awaits you. When you eventually reach the top, the feeling of achievement is indescribable. A one night stay at the Kaieteur Guest House offers you a

fascinating opportunity to experience the pristine beauty of the Falls and the immediate Park surroundings.

Each overland guided tour can usually handle from one guest up to twenty guests (maximum number for safety and available accommodations). The ages of guests to date have ranged ten to seventy years age. This is a trek through a magnificent rainforest and can be arduous for some; however as long as you are prepared for an adventure and willing to follow a few precautionary rules, the journey will be quite safe and remain a lifelong experience.

“It is difficult to isolate one part of an amazing experience” - BBC UK Lost Land of the Jaguar As you approach the Falls by plane, in the distance on the right of the Falls, the red roof of the Kaieteur Guest House comes into view.

Built in 1975 by Government and refurbished in 2003, the Kaieteur Guest House has two bedrooms, each with two beds. One of the bedrooms is self contained while the other is regular standard. In addition, there are 12 comfortable hammocks which can be hung almost anywhere inside guesthouse.

All beds and hammocks are equipped with nets although very few mosquitoes are found on site. Solar powered electricity (110V), water, stove, large dining table and refrigerator are available. Rain water is used as drinking water, so carry purification tablets. All food must be taken in by air. The resident housekeeper is more 70 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

than willing to prepare vegetables or cook complete meals when requested. There is a radio set for communication.

Kaieteur is a true wilderness area. Visitors to Kaieteur will experience the thundering of Kaieteur as it plunges into the Gorge below, the sounds of nature, the Swifts in the setting of the sun as they make their way into their resting place behind the Falls. There are no roads, no luxurious hotels, no protecting guard rails and very few people. Kaieteur has managed to maintain its natural beauty, unaffected thus far by the arrival of visitors.

“Native views, waterfalls, not seeing many visitors.” – A visitor from Spain who learnt of Kaieteur Falls through the internet With an average of 200 visitors a month, it is Guyana’s most visited natural site, with a record 1401 visitors during the Cricket World Cup 2007. July 2009, for the first time, recorded arrivals of 582 visitors as compared to 214 visitors for the corresponding period of 2008. Despite these numbers, if you should arrive during the week, you might be the only tourist for the whole day.

All visitors are encouraged to follow the rules of the Park to ensure a safe and incident free visit for all. For further details on alternatives available for your visit to Kaieteur Falls and Kaieteur National Park and Communities email the National Parks Commission at natparks@ networksgy.com For tours to Kaieteur Falls and National Park contact a local tour operator. (See THAG Member Listings at back of magazine.)

Wings to Treasure Iwokrama’s Kawe Amazonica

by: H. Sambhu, S. James

Butterflies are incredible insects whose imagery permeates our culture as a symbol of freedom, transformation and rebirth, and fragile beauty. In ancient Greek, the word for “butterfly” translated becomes ”Psyche”, and in mythology, this character is often represented with butterfly wings; in Chinese culture, two butterflies flying together is a symbol of intertwined love. We can all identify with butterflies and it’s not hard to imagine a large iridescent blue Morpho weaving though the vines and leaves of tropical rain forests. We may also be familiar with the orange and black spotted monarchs which feed on milkweed and in September, make an epic migration from North America to Mexico. In Guyana’s interior, we acknowledge the dry season when we see yellow and green Sulphur butterflies floating in clouds across the roads or down the rivers.

Butterflies are charismatic insects and sought after by collectors and kept in zoos, butterfly houses and gardens; you can visit Guyana’s only butterfly house, Kawe Amazonica, in Fair View Village, located near the Kurupukari Crossing and within the Iwokrama Forest. Kawe means butterfly in Makushi and this beautiful space is a joint venture between the Iwokrama International Centre and the communities of the North Rupununi District Development Board and an output of a Darwin Initiative project. In 2006, The University of Warwick, the University of Guyana, the North Rupununi District Development Board and Iwokrama International Centre came together to see what butterflies they could find in the area and to pilot butterfly farming in Guyana. Prior to this study, not much was known about Guyana’s butterflies, but over the past 2 years, local researchers have identified 96 species thus far in the North Rupununi and Iwokrama Forest. Some of these butterflies are especially unique and have potential

72 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

for sustainable breeding, harvesting and could provide an alternative income for local people.

Iwokrama Rangers and community researchers worked for 2 years, hunting, setting traps and monitoring butterflies in various habitats in Iwokrama and the North Rupununi savanahs. They found several potential trade species ranging form the popular “Blue Morpho” to the elusive and nearly invisible “Glass Wing”, the traveling “Monarch”, numerous “Sulphurs”, resident “Heliconids” and minute “Grinders”.

Butterflies, the adult form of the insect, are relatively easy to spot and identify as they flutter about looking for food and a mate. Unlocking the key to breeding the butterflies is a little more difficult.

At Kawe Amazonica, you will see a beautiful farm of host plants and the voracious and spectacular caterpillars which feed on them. Most caterpillars require a specific food source in order to thrive and they must have these leaves in abundance in order to grow and store the energy necessary to metamorph into the adult form.

Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it stops feeding and looks for a suitable place to anchor and pupate. Slowly, it transforms into translucent and magical pupae, some exquisite gifts like drops of molten gold or silver, some incredibly camouflaged as bird droppings. The pupae are left for a

day to harden and then they are gently “picked” and packed for shipping to the UK, where anxious and ardent collectors receive them and allow the adult butterfly to emerge from it’s casing where it is released into enclosed butterfly houses for others to enjoy.

At Kawe Amazonica, you can purchase the only butterfly guide for Guyana and keep an eye out for butterflies along your journey. After visiting the farm, spend some time in the Amerindian Village, Fair View, bathe in the spectacular falls at Kurupukari and look for petroglyphs (carvings) on ancient Precambrian rocks characteristic of the area. As you drive south though the Iwokrama Forest, watch out for animals, birds and butterflies as the road corridor is an excellent place to spot wildlife.

Stop in at the Canopy Walkway, a series of suspension bridges over 30 metres (100 feet) above the forest floor. Here it’s easy to image life in the canopy and you can come face to face with birds, butterflies and monkeys. The Rupununi savannahs and Aranaputa Mountain are great places to visit if you are on the trail of some of the local “fluttering jewels”, and end the day at the Oasis in Annai, with a cool drink and hearty meal and watch the sun set over the mountains.

Kawe Amazonica is Guyana’s only butterfly house, we are located in the Iwokrama

74 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

Forest and the butterflies farmed are from North Rupununi region as well as the forest. Kawa Amazonica is the hub for a community based butterfly export business, a training centre and tourist attraction which is meant to benefit the livelihoods of the communities in the area. The butterfly house was developed on land provided by Fair View Village and funded by the Darwin Initiative Programme in the UK with additional support from the British High Commission. The World Wildlife Fund Guianas Programme (WWF) will also provide additional support for this venture. Come and visit us and experience the magic!

For more information about Kawe Amazonica, visit www.guyanabutterflies.com Butterfly identification guides can be purchased {in Georgetown} at the Iwokrama office, Austin Books Store, the Universal Book Store, the Outdoor Store and {in the Rupununi} at Rock View Lodge, the Oasis, Surama Eco-lodge, North Rupununi District Development Board – Tourism Office, Iwokrama River Lodge and Research Centre and at the Kawe Amazonica craft shop.

H. Sambhu is a Professional Development Fellow, and S. James is the Community Education and Awareness Manager at Iwokrama International Centre For tours to Iwokrama Rainforest Centre, Canopy Walkway & Area Attractions contact a local tour operator. (See THAG Member Listings at back of magazine.)

Eden

The Giant Harpy Eargle Guyana’s Largest Bird of Prey 77 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

Birding

According to Susan Roney Drennan, of the National Audubon Society, “Birding Guyana was like birding Eden. The jungle rainforest was pristine. The birds were varied and abundant.

The guides were expert and focused. The accommodations were very comfortable. It was all a bonanza of riches. Who could have asked for more?”

Until recently, Guyana remained a fairly unknown South American destination, but dedicated birdwatchers and wildlife enthusiasts are starting to change that. Over the past few years, representatives from some of industry’s most respected and well-known tour operators and media have been visiting Guyana and leaving impressed.

“Hot, humid and full of birds,” said Kevin Loughlin, owner of Wildside Nature Tours.

“Guyana offers birders and nature enthusiasts a new frontier of expansive, pristine forest and savannah habitats to explore!”

“The richness of the wildlife-watching experience in this relatively pristine country

was mind-blowing – never before have I witnessed such high concentrations of kingfishers and herons!” That was Mike Weedon, Assistant Editor of Bird Watching magazine. He continued, “Seeing a young Harpy Eagle at close range was one of my most thrilling birding memories. And few places can compare with the majesty of Kaieteur – and its attendant Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock, what an awe-inspiring combination!”

James Curry, host of the television show Birding Adventures also like the Harpy, saying that while filming they were “very, very lucky to see a juvenile [Harpy Eagle] sitting in a huge, huge tree eating a Capuchin Monkey.”

Those who bird by numbers won’t be disappointed either. Lee Harper of Betchart Expeditions said, “We saw 17 species of Parrots and Macaws without even trying!” Ken Klotz of EcoVenture Travels revealed, “Some species that are hard to find in other South American countries are relatively abundant here. [In Guyana] one man who had birded most in the tropics of Latin America added 90 life birds to his list.”

Rick Wright of the tour operator Wings believes, “Guyana is a revelation, not just in the diversity of its habitats but in their purity… these habitats still harbor some of the most desirable birds in the Neotropics.” Gunnar Engblom of Kolibri Tours agrees.

“Kaieteur Falls, the lodges, ranches and community tourism projects…all provide endless opportunities for first class birding. The birding exploration of Guyana has just started but it shall become a magnet for all birding styles. Guyana has it all.”

78 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

79 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

According to Susan Roney Drennan, of the National Audubon Society, “Birding Guyana was like birding Eden. The jungle rainforest was pristine. The birds were varied and abundant. The guides were expert and focused. The accommodations were very comfortable. It was all a bonanza of riches. Who could have asked for more?”

Until recently, Guyana remained a fairly unknown South American destination, but dedicated birdwatchers and wildlife enthusiasts are starting to change that.

Over the past few years, representatives from some of industry’s most respected and well-known tour operators and media have been visiting Guyana and leaving impressed.

“Hot, humid and full of birds,” said Kevin Loughlin, owner of Wildside Nature Tours. “Guyana offers birders and nature enthusiasts a new frontier of expansive, pristine forest and savannah habitats to explore!”

“The richness of the wildlife-watching experience in this relatively pristine country was mind-blowing – never before have I witnessed such high concentrations of kingfishers and herons!” That was Mike Weedon, Assistant Editor of Bird Watching magazine. He continued, “Seeing a young Harpy Eagle at close range was one of my most thrilling birding memories. And few places can compare with the majesty of Kaieteur – and its attendant Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock, what an awe-inspiring combination!”

James Curry, host of the television show Birding Adventures also like the Harpy, saying that while filming they were “very, very lucky to see a juvenile [Harpy Eagle] sitting in a huge, huge tree eating a Capuchin Monkey.”

Those who bird by numbers won’t be disappointed either. Lee Harper of Betchart Expeditions said, “We saw 17 species of Parrots and Macaws without even trying!”

Ken Klotz of EcoVenture Travels revealed, “Some species that are hard to find in other South American countries are relatively abundant here. [In Guyana] one man who had birded most in the tropics of Latin America added 90 life birds to his list.”

Rick Wright of the tour operator Wings believes, “Guyana is a revelation, not just in the diversity of its habitats but in their purity… these habitats still harbor some of the most desirable birds in the Neotropics.” Gunnar Engblom of Kolibri Tours agrees. “Kaieteur Falls, the lodges, ranches and community tourism projects…all provide endless opportunities for first class birding.

The birding exploration of Guyana has just started but it shall become a magnet for all birding styles. Guyana has it all.”

80 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

To help you plan a trip around some of the same birds and destinations that have been creating the buzz, read on for brief overviews of the some places loved by the experts.

Georgetown Botanical Gardens and Coastal Rivers With more than 200 species, including the endemic Blood-colored Woodpecker, the Botanical Gardens are a great start to a birdwatching trip. To guide you, enlist Andy Narine, of Guyana Feathered Friends, and to explore further, have him take you to the nearby Abary and Demerara rivers where you may see the Hoatzin, Scarlet Ibis, Rufous Crab-Hawk, and the Guianan Gnatcatcher and Piculet.

Arrowpoint Nature Resort Located just two hours from Georgetown on the banks of the Pokerero Creek, Arrowpoint Nature Resort offers great views of hummingbirds, including Crimson Topaz and Reddish Hermit. Other specialties include Red-bellied Macaw, Crimson Topaz, Paradise Jacamar, and Point-tailed Palmcreeper. Don’t miss birdwatching via kayak a visit to the nearby Amerindian village of Santa Mission.

Baganara Island Resort Close to the junction of the Essequibo and Mazaruni rivers, Baganara is a short trip from Georgetown. Specialty birds include the Caica Parrot, Pygmy Antwren, Guianan Warbling Antbird, and Spotted Antpitta. Also

81 |

visit Parrot Island to watch hundreds of parrots returning to roost.

Kaieteur National Park Most people visit to view Kaieteur Falls, one of the world’s longest single-drop waterfalls, but keen birdwatchers will want to stay close to bird guide Lawrence for the best chance of seeing the Guianan Cock-of-theRock, White-chinned and White-tipped Swifts, and Orange-breasted Falcon. Don’t pass by the Giant Tank Bromeliads without looking for the Golden Dart Frogs that live in their leaves.

Iwokrama International Centre for Rainforest Conservation and Development With nearly one million acres of protected forests, there is a lot to see here, including many specialty birds like Blue-cheeked Amazon, Marail Guan, Guianan Red-Cotinga, Rufous-throated Antbird, and several macaw species. Request that Wally Prince be your birdwatching guide around the River Lodge and at 900-foot Turtle Mountain.

Atta Rainforest Lodge and Iwokrama Canopy Walkway After exploring the area around the Iwokrama River Lodge, head to the Atta Lodge and the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway, also in the Iwokrama Forest. From 30 meters above the forest floor you can look for Waved Woodpecker, Dusky Purpletuft, Painted Parakeet, and White-winged Potoo. Nearby there is also an excellent Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock lek.

EXPLORE GUYANA

Rock View Lodge This oasis of beautiful rooms, a swimming pool and excellent food and fruit juices – made from garden fresh ingredients – provides access to good deciduous forest and savannah birding. Allow Hendricks Daniel to guide you in search of Brown-throated Parakeet, Finsch’s Euphonia, Cayenne Jay, and Double-striped Thick-knee, and don’t miss sunrise from the top of the Lodge’s namesake rock.

Karanambu Lodge Many people visit the magnificent Karanambu Lodge, located on the Rupununi River, to meet Diane McTurk and learn about her work rehabilitating Giant River Otters. When not playing with otters or looking for Giant Anteaters in the savannahs, guide Manuel Mandook can lead you in search of Capuchinbird, Spotted Puffbird, Bearded Tachuri, Agami Heron, Crestless Curassow, and the brilliant Rose-breasted Chat. Another highlight is enjoying Diane’s rum punch and home-baked cookies while watching the giant Victoria amazonica lilies open.

Yupukari Village and Caiman House Just a short distance from Karanambu on the Rupununi River, Yupukari village has great savannah, gallery forest and river-edge birds, including Pinnated Bittern, Green-tailed Jacamar, Black-chinned Antbird, and Capuchinbird. After Ashley Holland has shown you the birds, be sure to join the Black Caiman research team for a night of studying the prehistoric creatures.

Dadanawa Ranch You shouldn’t miss Guyana’s Southern Rupununi, and the best place to stay is at Dadanawa Ranch. Guides Duane and Justin de Freitas or Asaf are your keys to finding Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock, Harpy Eagle, Jabiru Stork, and the highly endangered Red Siskin. The area also has healthy populations of Jaguar and Giant Anteater. Dadanawa also used to be the world’s largest cattle ranch, so eat plenty of beef during your stay.

Rewa Village and Eco-Lodge At the junction of the Rewa and Rupununi rivers is this idyllic village that is rapidly becoming prized for excellent sport fishing, birdwatching and wildlife viewing. Alwin Rovan will be happy to take you to several spots in search of Ornate Hawk-eagle, Guianan Puffbird, Todd’s Antwren, Spotted Tanager, Bayheaded Tanager, and a high density of Macaws. Take time to hike to the top of Awarmie Mountain to absorb the stunning views.

For your entertainment we offer you the services of our first class Restaurant, Bar, Pool Hall, Night Club and Gym

You’re Sure To Enjoy Yourself 137 Sheriff Street, Georgetown, Guyana.

Tel: Restaurant - 592-231-7260, Gym - 592-231-4104 Pool Hall - 592-223-7658

Nappi Village and Maipaima Eco-Lodge Nestled at the base of the Kanuku Mountains, the Maipaima Eco-Lodge at Nappi Village provides excellent access to pristine rainforests home to an abundance of macaws and parrots, including Red-fan Parrot. White-bearded Bellbird and Southern Screamer are also in the area. Consume plenty of the delicious locally grown fruit juices and hearty vegetables before trekking to the secluded but spectacular Jordan Falls.

For more information to help you plan a birdwatching trip to Guyana, Visit: www.guyanabirding.com. or contact your local Tour Operators (See THAG Member Listings at Back of Magazine)

EXPLORE GUYANA

Birding

Surama Village If you’re lucky, guide Ron Allicock will be home when you visit Surama Village and Eco-Lodge. His keen eyes and ears will increase your chances of getting good looks at Harpy Eagle, Bronzy Jacamar, Zigzag Heron, and the elusive Rufous-winged Ground-Cuckoo. Also explore the Burro Burro River via dugout canoe and eat anything made with cassava.

| 83

LANGUAGE The official language is English. Often spoken with a Caribbean Creole flavour. Guyana is also the only English speaking country in South America.

About Guyana COUNTRY FACTS fish, fruits, fresh vegetables and well – respected brands of rum. Gold, bauxite and diamonds are mined.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS Police: 911,564 Police: Emergency Response Unit: 225-6411 Fire: 912 Ambulance: 913

CLOTHING Lightweight, causal clothing can be worn throughout the year.

CURRENCY The local currency is the Guyana Dollar TIME ZONE GMT - 04:00 LOCATION Guyana is situated on the North East of South America and is the only English speaking country. Between 1o & 9o North Latitude and 57o & 61o West Longitude, bordering Venezuela to the West, Brazil to the South, Suriname to the East.

GEOGRAPHY Guyana is the third-smallest country in South America after Suriname and Uruguay, it has four distinct geographical areas: the Low Coastal Plain; the Hilly Sand and Clay Belt; the High Land Region and the Interior Savannah. The area in square kilometers is 214,970 (83,000 square miles).

About 85% of the land area is still forested, and only 2.5% is cultivated. Coastline lays 1 to 1.5 meters below sea level at high tide necessitating elaborate systems of drainage canals. The most valuable mineral deposits are bauxite, gold, and diamonds. The main rivers are the Demerara, Berbice, Corentyne and Essequibo.

CLIMATE Guyana is a tropical destination that is pleasant and warm for most of the year, humid, moderated by northeast trade winds; two rainy seasons (May to June, November to January). Average temperatures 24 °C– 31 °C. Mean temperature of 27 ° C and the average temperature range from 24 ° C to 31 ° C. Rainfall is approximately 2,300mm a year in Georgetown.

ECONOMY The agricultural sector accounts for half the national GDP, producing sugar and rice for export, with extensive timber operations and a range of other products, from coffee to 84 |

HEALTH There is a risk of malaria in certain parts of the interior.

Consult your doctor for the required precautions if you intend to travel there. Georgetown and coastal areas are Malaria-Free. Georgetown has one public and several private hospitals, these include: 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Georgetown Public Hospital Corporation St. Joseph’s Mercy Hospital on Parade Street, Prashad Hospital on Thomas Street Davis Memorial in Lodge Back lands Balwant Singh Hospital on East Streets

Municipal Hospitals and Health Care Centres exist within rural and outer lying communities with medivac services available in cases of emergency.

Further information can be obtained from the Ministry of Health on Telephone Numbers: (592) 226 7338 or (592) 226 1366.

INTERNET For most customers, internet service is available nationally from independent providers. Service is also available in most hotels and at many internet cafés which have been established across the country. Some hotels and restaurants provide WI-FI at no charge to patrons using their laptops. The major Internet Service Providers in Guyana are: • Guyana .net(www.guyana.net.gy) • Inter Net Works(www.networksgy.com) • Soultion2000(www.solution2000.net) The informative home pages of these service providers have useful links to other sites. The sustainable development programme site, www.sdnp.org.gy.has links to several NGOs, conservation groups, and international organizations as well.

EXPLORE GUYANA

MEDIA There are four daily papers: Stabroek News, Guyana Chronicle, Kaieteur News and the Guyana Times. The well respected Catholic Standard and The Mirror are published weekly.

There are over 20 TV stations: most rebroadcast US and other imports. GTV and GBC have merged as one entityNational Communication Network (NCN) operating as Voice of Guyana, Radio Roraima and 98.1 FM, the main radio stations.

PLACES TO WORSHIP The predominant religious groups are Christians, Hindus and Muslims. Each is well represented with its own churches, temples, mosques. They are also very dominant across the country in most villages where they are major landmarks featuring traditional architecture of the various groups.

POPULATION Approximately 751,223 (Census 2002) of which 90% live along the coastal strip and banks of major rivers.

OTTAWA, CANADA High Commission of Guyana H. E. Rajnarine Singh High Commissioner 151 Slater Street Suite 309 Ottawa , K1P 5H3 ,Canada Tele: 613 - 235 – 7240, 235 -7249 Fax: 613 -235 -1447 E-mail: guyanahcott@rogers.com

About Guyana GOVERNMENT GOVERNMENT Guyana became independent from Britain in 1966 and a “Cooperative Republic in 1970, when a non executive President replaced the Governor-General. A new constitution in 1980 gave the President wide executive powers. The Cabinet is headed by the President, and there is a 65-member National Assembly elected by proportional representation.

CHINA Embassy of the Republic of Guyana Mrs. Choo A Yin Charge d’ Affaires a.i.

No. 1 Xiu Shui Dong Jie Jian Guo Men Wai Beijing ,China Tele: 8610 - 6532 - 1601 Fax: 8610 - 6532 - 5741 E-mail: guyemb@public3.bta.net.cn

GUYANA’S MISSIONS OVERSEAS

CUBA Embassy of the Republic of Guyana H. E. Mitradevi Ali Ambassador Calle 18, No. 506 Entre 5ta y 7ma , Miramar , Havana Cuba .

Tele: 537 - 204 - 2094 Fax: 537 - 204 - 2867 E-mail: embguyana@enet.cu

BELGIUM Embassy of the Republic of Guyana H.E Dr. Patrick Ignatius Gomes Ambassador 12 Avenue du Bresil 1000 Brussels, Belgium Tel: 322 - 675 - 6216 Fax: 322 - 672 - 5598 E-mail: embassy9.guyana@skynet.be BRAZIL Embassy of the Republic of Guyana H. E. Harrinarine Nawbatt Ambassador SHIS Q I05 Conjunto 19 Cassa 24 Lago Sul , CEP 71615 – 190 Brasilia DF , Brazil Tele: 55-61-3248–0874, 3248–0875, 33645319 Fax: 55-61-3248–0886 E-mail: embguyana@embguyana.org.br

INDIA High Commission of the Republic of Guyana H. E. Jairam Ronald Gajraj High Commissioner F-8/22 Vasant Vihar New Delhi - 110057 , India Tel: 91 11 4166 9717-8 Fax: 91 11 4166 9714 E-mail: hcommguy.del@gmail.com LONDON High Commission of the Republic of Guyana H. E. Laleshwar K. N. Singh, C.C.H.

86 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

High Commissioner 3 Palace Court Bayswater Road London , W2 4LP , England Tele: 44 - 207 - 229 – 7684 Fax: 44 - 207 - 727 - 9809 E-mail: guyanahc1@btconnect.com Website: www.guyanahc.com NEW YORK, USA Consulate General for the Republic of Guyana Mr. Brentnold Evans Consul General Mr. M.R. Khan Deputy Consul General 370 7th Avenue Room 402, New York , New York 10001 , USA Tel: 212 - 947 – 5115-6, 947 – 5110-9 Fax No: 212 - 947 - 5163 E-mail: guyanaconsulate@hotmail.com NICKERIE, SURINAME Consulate General for the Republic of Guyana Mr. Arlington Bancroft Consul General Doorga Shaw Straat #29 Nickerie , Suriname Tele: 597-210-266 Fax: 597-212-080 E-mail: guyconsulnick@sr.net

PARAMARIBO, SURINAME Embassy of the Republic of Guyana H.E. Karshanjee Arjun Ambassador Henck Arron Straat No. 82 Paramaribo ,Suriname Tele: 597 - 477 – 895, 472 - 509 Fax: 597- 472 - 679 E-mail: guyembassy@sr.net PERMANENT MISSION TO THE UNITED NATIONS Permanent Mission of Guyana to the United Nations Mr. George Talbot Charge d’ Affaires a.i.

801 Second Avenue, Suite 501 (Fifth Floor) New York New York 10017 USA Tele: 212 – 573 – 5828-9 Fax: 212 -573 - 6225 E-mail: guyana@un.int TORONTO, CANADA Consulate General of the Republic of Guyana Mr. Danny Doobay Honorary Consul General 505 Consumers Road Suite 206 Willowdale Ontario M2J 4V8, Canada Tele: 416- 494-6040, 494-6059, 494-2679 Fax: 416 - 494-1530 E-mail: info@guyanaconsulate.com VENEZUELA Embassy of the Republic of Guyana H.E. Dr. Odeen Ishmael, C.C.H. Ambassador Quinta Roraima Avenida El Paseo Prados del Este Caracas, Venezuela Tele: 58 - 212 - 977 – 1158, 58- 212 – 975 3687 Fax: 212 - 976 – 3765 E-mail: embaguy@cantv.net

WASHINGTON Embassy of the Republic of Guyana H.E. Bayney Karran Ambassador 2490 Tracy Place, N. W. Washington , D.C. , 20008 USA Tele: 202 - 265 - 3834, 265 – 6900-1, 328 – 1567 Fax: 202 - 232 -1297 E-mail: guyanaembassydc@verizon.net

AMBASSADORS & HIGH COMMISSIONS REPRESENTED IN GUYANA H. E. Manorma Soeknandan Ambassador Embassy of the Republic of Suriname and Dean of the Diplomatic Corps 171 Peter Rose & Crown Streets Queenstown Georgetown Tele: 592 226 7844; 225 2631; 225 2846 Fax: 592 225 0759 Email: surnmemb@gol.net.gy H.E. Luiz Gilberto Seixas de Andrade Ambassador Embassy of the Federative Republic of Brazil 308 Church Street Georgetown Tele: 592 225 7970; 226 9693 Fax: 592 226 9063 Email: bragetown@solution.2000.net guibrem@solutions2000.net H.E. Fraser Wheeler High Commissioner British High Commission 44 Main Street Georgetown Tele: 592 226 5881-4 Fax: 592 225 3555 Email: bhcgeo@networks.gy.com H.E. Francois Montour High Commissioner Canadian High Commission High & Young Street Kingston Georgetown Tele: 592 227 2081-2 Fax: 592 225 8380 Email: grgtn@international.gc.ca H.E. Zhang Jungao Ambassador Embassy of the People’s Republic of China Track ‘B’ Mandela Avenue

87 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

Georgetown Tele: 592 227 1651; 227 1652 Fax: 592 225 9228; 226 4308 (Commercial) Email: prcemb@networks.gy.com or chinaguyana@yahoo.com H.E. Dario Morandy Ambassador Embassy of the Bolivarian Republic of Venezuela 296 Thomas Street Georgetown Tele: 592 226 1543; 226 6749; 226 9041 Fax: 592 225 3241 Email: embveguy@gol.net.gy H.E. Pavel A Sergiev Ambassador Embassy of the Russian Federation Public Road Kitty Georgetown Tele: 592 227 1738: 226 9773 Fax: 592 227 2975 Email: reing@networks.gy.com H.E. Subit Kumar Mandal High Commissioner Indian High Commission 307 Church Street Georgetown Tele: 592 226 3996; 226 8965; 226 3240 Fax: 592 225 7012 Email: hoc.georgetown@mea.gov.in Ms. Karen Williams Charge D’ Affaires Embassy of the United States of America Young & Duke Streets Kingston Georgetown TELE: 592 226 3938; 225 7960; 225 4900 Fax: 592 2270240; 592 225 8497 Email: usembassy@hotmail.com

About Guyana TRAVELLING ENTRY REQUIREMENTS All visitors to Guyana are required to have a valid passport to enter and depart Guyana.

All visitors to Guyana should ensure that their passports have at least six months of remaining validity. Those arriving by air require a return online ticket.

Visitors who wish to extend their stay may contact the Ministry of Home Affairs at 60 Brickdam, Georgetown. The Central Office of Immigration, located on Camp Street, Georgetown, must also note the extension in the visitor’s passport.

Travelers for purposes other than tourism should check with the Ministry of Home Affairs for information about requirements for work permits and extended stays. On arrival, Guyanese Immigration normally grants visitors a stay of no more than thirty days.

Visas are necessary for all visitors except nationals of the following countries: Commonwealth Countries Belgium Denmark Finland France Germany

Greece Ireland Italy Japan Republic of Korea Luxembourg The Netherlands Norway Portugal Spain Sweden United States of America For further information contact the Consulate or Guyana Foreign Office nearest to you.

TRANSPORTATION DRIVING IN GUYANA Traffic drives on the left. Seat belts are necessary by Law. If travelling to Guyana and you wish to drive, please enquire with the Customs Officer upon entry into Guyana for a local driving permit. Be sure to walk with your international licence to show.

The permit is granted on the spot and is free of charge.

TAXI AND BUSES Georgetown is well served with taxis, which operate throughout the city and to other urban centres. Taxis are easy to 89 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

find outside most hotels and throughout Georgetown. Enquire of the rates before embarking upon travel. Private taxis are easily arranged through your local hotel or by calling one of the recommendable taxis services.

There are also ultra –cheap minibus running around town and along the coast, or to the Cheddi Jagan International Airport and Linden. Check and confirm the fares before entering the vehicle.

Transportation around the city is provided by privately owned mini buses which operate in allocated zones for which there is a well-regulated fare structure. This arrangement extends to all mini bus routes throughout the country. Taxis afford freer movement around the city.

RIVER BOATS & FERRIES With the opening of the Berbice Bridge between East and West Berbice,, travelling time is lessened for commuters from Georgetown to Berbice and onward travel to Suriname via the crossing at Molson Creek.

Commuters to West Demerara have a choice of road transport via the Demerara

Harbour Bridge or by the Demerara River Ferry from the Stabroek Stelling to Vreed-en-Hoop which is obliquely opposite each other.

The highway which begins on the West Coast of Demerara is heavily trafficked since it provides a link to Parika on the East Bank of Essequibo River which has become an important centre of economic activity in the Essequibo region. For example, speed boats or other types of marine transportation can be hired to take passengers as far as Bartica or other hinterland resorts and back in a single day.

DOMESTIC AIR SERVICE

About Guyana MONEY & BUSINESS

Air transportation is readily available for traveling to several parts of the hinterland, whether for business or for pleasure. Several local airlines depart from Ogle Aerodome on the East Coast of Demerara and from Cheddi Jagan International Airport, Timehri.

Information on their availability and movement is easily obtainable from their office and from tour operators. Private charter companies operate flights into the interior from the soon to be upgraded Ogle International Airport.

BANKING HOURS

• Air Services Limited.

Tele: 222-4357/222-4368 www.airservicesltd.com

• Roraima Airways.

Tele:225-9647/8 www.roraimaairways.com

• Trans Guyana Airways.

Tele: 222 2525/2861 www.transguyana.net

• Wings Aviation Ltd. Tele: 222-6513 / 226 9098 www.airguyana.biz

CARICOM - The Caribbean Community Secretariat

P.O. Box 10827, Turkeyen, Greater Georgetown Tel: 222 0001-75 • Fax: 222 0171 E-mail: registry@caricom.org Website: www.caricom.org

Banking Hours at most banks are relatively short: Mondays to Thursdays: 8am to 2pm Fridays: 8am to 2:30pm

Consultative Association of Guyanese Industry

The main commercial banks are:

Bank of Baroda

Ave. of the Republic, Georgetown • Tel: 226 4005/6

157 Waterloo St, Georgetown • Tel: 226 4603 Email:cagi@solutions2000.net

Bank of Nova Scotia

Forest Products Association of Guyana

Citizens Bank

Georgetown Chamber of Commerce & Industry

Carmichael Street, Georgetown (Branches in Bartica, New Amsterdam and Parika) Tel: 225 9222

157 Waterloo St, Georgetown • Tel: 226 9848 Email: fpasect@guyana.net.gy

Camp Street, Georgetown • Tel: 226 1705/6

156 Waterloo St, Georgetown • Tel: 225 5846 Email:gtchambe@networksgy.com www.geochamberofcommerce.org

Demerara Bank

Camp Street, Georgetown • Tel: 225 0610/9

GO-INVEST(Guyana Office for Investment)

Guyana Bank for Trade and Industry

190 Camp & Church Sts, Georgetown Tel: 225 0658/227 0653 • Fax: 225 0655 E-mail: goinvest@goinvest.gov.gy Website: www.goinvest.gov.gy

Water Street, Georgetown, Tel: 226 8430/9

New Building Society

Ave. of the Republic, Georgetown Tel: 227 4444

Guyana Association of Travel Agents

Republic Bank Guyana Ltd

INTERNATIONAL & REGIONAL CARRIERS

Guyana’s international airport, named after the late president, Cheddi Jagan International is at Timehri, 25 miles south of Georgetown. Flights from Europe are routed through Antigua, Barbados, or Trinidad. There are direct flights from Miami, New York, Toronto, Brazil, and Suriname.

• Caribbean Airlines • LIAT. Tele: 1-800-538-2992 Tele: 227-8281/1-888-538-2992 www.caribbean-airlines.com www.liatairline.com • Meta Airlines.

Tele :225-5315 www.voemeta.com

• Suriname Airways Tele: 225-4894/3473 www.surinamairways.net

• Delta Airlines Tele: 225-7800 www.delta.com

• Blue Wings.

Tele: 225-9647 www.bluewings.com

There is an exit tax of G$2,500.00 plus a security charge of G$1,500 (being a total of G$4,000). This is paid at the airport at the GRA booth. (The US dollar equivalent for this exit tax may vary with exchange fluctuations.) Please note that this is payable in GY$ or foreign currency.

CAMBIOS / TAXI

These are licensed currency exchange houses. Most cambios are open from 8am to 5pm, and on Saturdays from 8am to 12pm, sometimes to 2pm. Keep your cambio receipts, you will need to produce them in order to change Guyanese dollars on departure.

90 |

CURRENCY

The unit of currency is the Guyana dollar, which floats against the US dollar. (Exchange rate at the time of publication: US$1=G$204* *approximate value, check for daily rates.) US dollars are widely accepted.

British, Canadian and some other bank notes may be accepted as well.

Foreign currency can be changed at banks, finance houses, and cambios.

Many hotels will change money but generally give a lower rate.

Guyana Manufacturers’ & Services Association

CREDIT CARDS

Guyana Rice Producers’ Association

Major credits cards and traveller’s cheques are accepted by most hotels, restaurants, car rental agencies and tour operators. Scotia Cards and Master Cards can be used to obtain cash from the Bank of Nova Scotia during banking hours. American Express cards can be used at Demerara Bank. Foreign credit cards cannot be used at ATM machines in Guyana .

GUYANA STOCK EXCHANGE

DEPARTURE TAX

EXPLORE GUYANA

Wm Fogarty Building, 34-37 Water St., Georgetown Tel: 227 7225 • Fax: 225 2513 Email:jimbacchus@inetguyana.net

Water Street, Georgetown Tel: 226 1691/5/4091

GASCI is a “self-regulatory Organization” which was formed for the purpose of developing a Stock Market in Guyana. It is the result of earlier work undertaken by the Adam Smith Institute funded by the UK Department.

Gasci was incorporated on June 1st, 2001 Trading commenced on June 30th, 2003. The Stock Exchange was formally launched on September 25th, 2003. Its members consist of the four securities companies registerd to trade on the Stock Exchange viz. Beharry Stockbrokers Ltd., Guyana America Merchant Bank Inc., Hand-in-Hand Trust Corporation Inc. and Trust Company (Guyana) Ltd. It is governed by a board of six directors. Trading currently takes place on Mondays and on Wednesdays when Monday is a holiday. Trading starts at 10:00am.

BUSINESS CONTACTS & ORGANISATIONS Berbice Chamber of Commerce and Development

12 Chapel Street, New Amsterdam, Berbice • Tel: 333 3324

157 Waterloo Street, Georgetown • Tel: 223-7405/06 Fax: 225-5615 Email:gma_guyana@yahoo.com • www.gma.org.gy

Guyana Rice Development Board

117 Cowan Street, Kingston, Georgetown • Tel: 225 8717 Fax: 225-6486 Public Rd. Crane,W.C.D • Tel: 254 2011 / 0355

Guyana Tourism Authority

National Exhibition Centre, Sophia, Georgetown Tel: 219-0094/5/6 • Fax: 219 0093 Email: info@guyana-tourism.com Website: www.guyana-tourism.com

Institute of Private Enterprise Development

253 South Road, Bourda, Georgetown • Tel: 225 8949 Email:iped@solutions2000.net

Linden Chamber of Industry and Commerce

84 Riverside Drive, Watooka, Linden • Tel: 444 2901

Ministry of Tourism Industry & Commerce 229 South St., Lacytown, Georgetown

Tel: 226 2505 • Fax: 225 9310

Private Sector Commission

Umbrella organization for most private sector business and employer organizations. Most major companies are also members.

157 Waterloo St, Georgetown Tel: 225 0977 • Fax: 225 0978 E-mail: pscentre2@yahoo.com Website: www.psc.org.gy

Rupununi Chambers of Commerce 2 Lethem, Rupununi

Tel: 772 2213

Tourism and Hospitality Association of Guyana (THAG)

157 Waterloo St, Georgetown Tel: 225 0807 • Fax: 225 0817 E-mail: thag.secretariat@gmail.com Website: www.exploreguyana.org

EXPLORE GUYANA

| 91

ACCOMMODATIONS

THAG TRAVELER

1

5

9

2

3

6

10

7

11

13 15 14 Resort 1 Aracari 160 Versailles, W.B.Dem, Guyana Tel: 264-2947-8, 264-3310-2. Fax: 264-2949 Email: info@aracari.com Website: www.aracariresort.com The Aracari Resort of Guyana offers a full line of hospitality services.

This 150,000 square-foot Resort features 36 magnificent one bedroom apartments, a fine dining & Fast Food Restaurant and bar, an internet Café, a fitness Gym, nightly, an incredibly exciting pool, poolside entertainment and a line of warm and hospitable staff.

2

4

6

7

8

Brandsville Apartments

89-90 Pike Street, Campbellville, Georgetown.

Tel: 226-1133/ 227-0989 Fax: 231-7001 Email: brandsville@gol.net.gy Website: www.brandsville.net Relax! You’re at Brandsville-located just a short distance from the Seawall which boards the Atlantic Ocean and a corner away from the American School.

Set among a quiet neighborhood, three blocks offers 32 executive type rooms and suites to suit your needs. Inclusive of Jacuzzi, self catering facilities and customer amenities including wired and wireless networks.

Whilst in Georgetown, you certainly will need to investigate quality accommodation and we recommend that you consider the city properties detailed below.

All of these properties are members of the Tourism and Hospitality Association of Guyana, and offer the quality of service we know will meet your satisfaction.

12

Wave Apartments 3 Blue 8-9 North Road, Bourda, Georgetown.

Tel: 227-8897/ 226-1417/8 / 226-4295. Fax: 226-2742 Email: bluewave@networksgy.com Website: www.bluewave-gy.com We offer 21 rooms all constructed and fitted to the highest standards. These include 2 executive suites, 5 studio suites, 2 one bedroom suites, all self catering as well as 12 standard rooms. Free and secured parking is also available.

Georgetown and Environs

8

Ariantze Hotel Sidewalk Café

176 Middle Street, Cummingburg, Georgetown.

Tel: 226-5363/ 225-4634/ 225-4644 Fax: 227-0210 Email: ariantze@networksgy.com Website: www.ariantzesidewalk.com 11 rooms centrally located. Also featuring Sidewalk Café and Jazz Club. Delighting charming décor. Your home away from home..

ACCOMMODATIONS

4

5

9

Eco-Resorts, Interior Lodges & Attractions

Cara Lodge

294 Quamina Street. P.O.Box 10833, Georgetown.

Tel: 225-5301/5 Fax: 225-5310 Email: caralodge@carahotels.com Website: www.carahotels.com Guyana’s first Heritage House Hotel. Victorian tradition with all the comfort and service of a modern hotel in a congenial, relaxed atmosphere. Our Bottle restaurant is recognized as the best in Georgetown and we offer full conference and banqueting facilities, complimentary high speed internet access and mini gym.

Grand Penthouse 10 Le 6 Commerce Street, Georgetown.

Tel: 227-3499, 227-1801. Fax: 227-4480 Email: reservation@legrandpenthouse.net Website: www.legrandpenthouse.net

View International Hotel & 11 Ocean Convention Centre

Liliendaal, East Coast Demerara Tel: 592-222-5429-31, 222-5440 Fax: 592-222-4722 Ocean View International Hotel & Convention Centre has a total of seventy fully air conditioned, self contained rooms. Among these, approximately twenty rooms, overlooks the Centuries old Dutch built Sea-Wall at the village of Liliendaal.

Housed on the same grounds the hotel boasts the biggest self contained and air conditioned Convention Centre with seating capacity for four hundred persons. We have hosted important events including the Parliament of Guyana.

Cara Suites

176 Middle & Waterloo Sts., Georgetown.

Tel: 226-1612-8. Fax: 226-1541 Email: carasuites@carahotels.com Website: www.carahotels.com Located in the heart of the diplomatic and business district of Georgetown, with an excellent range of facilities including our Bistro 176 bar and restaurant and complimentary high speed internet access. The finest in corporate executive accommodation!

12

Duke Lodge

94-95 Duke Street Kingston Tel: 231-7220, 227-2213 . Fax: 227-3816Email: Email: roraimadukelodge@hotmail.com Website: www.roraimaairawys.com

Herdmanston Lodge

65 Peter Rose & Anira Street, Queenstown, Georgetown.

Tel: 225-0808/ 0811 Fax: 231-7904 Email: stay@herdmanstonlodge.com Website: www.herdmantsonlodge.com An elegant 8- room Victorian facility offering all the comforts you would expect in an atmosphere that is welcoming and anticipates your every need with the greatest satisfaction. Whether on vacation or business we will take care of you.

Hotel Tower

75-76 Main Street, P.O.Box 101010, Georgetown.

Tel: 227-2011/ 2015 / 227-0484 / 227-0456.

Fax: 225-6021 Email: hotel.tower@solutions2000.net Website: www.hoteltowerguyana.com Hotel Tower Limited Is Guyana’s “Business Hotel”, located in the heart of Georgetown. We offer comfortable accommodation, fine dining and good service. We offer breakfast in our main Street Café.

16

DENOTES CITY HOTEL LOCATIONS ON MAP Please refer to Page 18 & 19 for Georgetown City Map

92 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

1

13

2

3

Radisson Suites Hotel

83 Laluni Street, Queenstown, Georgetown.

Tel: 226-2145 / 227-4983. Fax: 226-2145 Email: info@guyanahotel.com Website: www.guyanahotel.com

14

Regency Suites

15

Roraima Residence Inn

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

Akawini Creek, Pomeroon River Tel: 771-5391 Email: adelrest@earthlink.net Website: www.adelresort.com Located in the pristine rainforest area of the Pomeroon River & surrounded by a 60 acre farm that provides all the food you eat.

We are within an hour’s boat ride of several Amerindian reservations and the famous Shell Beach where you can witness the turtles come in to lay their eggs. You can awake to the beautiful sunrise and the variety of birds flying overhead. Come and enjoy the serenity of the resort and the feast to your heart’s content.

168 Century Palm Gdns, Durban Backlands, Lodge Tel: 455-3200/ 225-3557/ 624-8694 Fax: 226-0240 Email: gems@hurakabra.com/gems@gol.net.gy Website: www.hurakabragy.com “Nestled on the water’s edge of the magnificent Essequibo River, Hurakabra is embraced by the rain forest. Experience the peace and tranquility of one of Guyana’s finest, bird and animal life habitats. Wake up to the breath taking sunrises and laze away the day in a hammock under a palm tree or join in the day’s activities. Be pampered by our indigenous staff and feel at home while away from home.

Arrow Point Int. Resort

Atta Rainforest Lodge (CATS)

5

Baganara Island Resort

7

Jubilee Resort

8

Karanambu Ranch

C/o Wilderness Explorers, Cara Suites 176 Middle Street, Georgetown.

Tel: 226-2085, 227-7698 Fax: 226-2085 Email: info@wilderness-explorers.com Skype: tonywildex Website:www.iworkramacanopywalkway.com

Essequibo River, Guyana 159 Charlotte Street, Lacytown Georgetown Tel: 226-0605/ 2265128 Fax: 225-1171 Email: bookbaganara@baganara.com Website: www.baganara.com

13 Tel: 226-2755/ 226-2975 Fax: 226-2755 Email: lm_resort@mail.com Website: www.lakemainstayresort.biz

10

Rock View Lodge

11

Splashmin’s Fun Park & Eco Resort

12

Surama Eco Resort

13

Timberhead Rainforest Resort

River Resort 6 Hurakabra Essequibo River

Adventure Guianas Villa & Court Yard

R8 Eping Avenue, Bel Air Park, Georgetown.

Tel: 225-9647-8 Fax: 225-9646 Email: ral@roraimaairways.com Website: www.roraimaairways.com Arrowpoint is an Eco Tourism facility that offers guest an unforgettable good experience.

It is a located in the Amerindian Reservation of Santa Mission which has a population of approximately four hundred (400) Arawak Indians and boasts Guyana’s only EPA permit for a Resort.

PLEASE REFER TO FULL SIZE COUNTRY MAP FOR SPECIFIC RESORT LOCATIONS (PAGE 17)

You dream of a place, within your reach, where you can be alone, with nature’s beauty surrounding you on all the shores. Your senses are indulged by the calming lilt of birdsong, the chirping of crickets and the croaking of frogs. The magnificence of the rainforest inspires you as you rest in awe of the vastness of this pristine natural world. Baganara Island Resort is the reality.

Adel’s Rainforest Resort

4

98 Hadfield Street, Werk-en –Rust, Georgetown.

Tel: 225-4785/ 226-0621 Fax: 226-0531 Email: hotelregency3@yahoo.com Website: www.regencyhotelguyana.com

R8 Eping Avenue, Bel Air Park Georgetown.

Tel: 225-9648 . Fax: 225-9646 Email: ral@roraimaairways.com Website: www.roraimaairawys.com

2

Lethem, Rupununi. c/o 53 Pere Street,. Kitty, Georgetown Tel: 227-4713 / 227-3158 / 626-9033 Fax: 227-3196 Email: info@adventureguianas.com Website: www.adventureguianas.com

Pegasus Hotel Guyana

Seawall Road, Kingston, Georgetown.

Tel: 225-2853-9. Fax: 225-3703 Email: reservations@pegasushotelguyana.com Website: www.pegasushotelguyana.com Guyana’s leading hotel. Guyana Pegasus offers 132 rooms ranging from standard to luxury, and an excellent array of facilities including pool, bars, a la carte restaurant, gym and conference facilities.

1

9

106-107 Lamaha & Carmichael Streets Georgetown Tel: 225-4020/ 223-7847/ 691-7313 Fax: 223-0739 Email: jubileeresort@yahoo.com Website: www.jubileeresort.com

Karanambu North Rupununi or A102 Issano Place, East Bel Air Park Georgetown, Guyana Tel: 226-5180, 226-2085. Fax: 226-2085 Email:karanambu.lodge@gmail.com Website: www.karanambu.com Where the savannah, swamp and flood forest meet on the Rupununi River providing a unique diversity of wildlife habitat: a cluster of palm thatched houses in a gravel compound invokes the pioneer period of a century ago.”

Lake Mainstay Resort

216-217 Lamaha Street North Cummingsburg, Georgetown.

93 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

Annai, North Rupununi, Region 9 Tel: 226-0605 Fax: 225-1171 Email: info@rockviewlodge.com Website: www.rockviewlodge.com Ideally located in an Amerindian Community affording good access to the Iwokrama Forest Reserve, Surama Village and Karanambu. Well furnished self-contained suites surrounded by savannahs, mountains, rainforest and rivers, and a family atmosphere with excellent ranch house, regional cooking and swimming pool.

48 High & Hadfield Sts., Georgetown Tel: 223-7301 - 4 Email: info@splashmins.com Website: www.splashmins.com

c/o Wilderness Explorers Tel: 226-2085 / 227 7698 Fax: 226-2085 Email: info@wilderness-explorers.com Website: www.wildernessexplorers.com Surama Village is an Amerindian community set in 5 square miles of Savannah ringed by the forest covered Pakaraima Mountains. The inhabitants are mainly from the Macushi tribe and still observe many of the traditonal practices of their forebearers.

Surama shares a common border with the Iwokrama Centre along the Burro Burro River.

8-10 Providence, East Bank Demerara Tel: 233-5108/ 233-5023 Fax: 233-6608 Email: timberhead@yahoo.com timberhead@soultions2000.net Website: www.timberheadguyana.com Located on the Pokeroro Creek in the Amerindian Reservation of Santa Mission. Day and evening jungle walks and canoeing, birding watching, swimming, sports.

GUYANA’S INTERNATIONAL INCOMING DIRECT DIALING CODE IS 011592

THAG TRAVELER

THAG MEMBERS SERVICES All of these tourist services are members of the Tourism and Hospitality Association of Guyana, and offer the quality of service we know will meet your satisfaction.

ADVERTISING & PUBLISHING COMPANIES Advertising & Marketing Services 213 B Camp Street.

P.O.Box 101582, Georgetown Tel:225-5384 . Fax:225-5383 Email: mail@amsguyana.com Publishers of Explore Guyana Tourist Magazine, The Guyana Tourist Map, Horizons Magazine, Fast Lane Magazine & Other Publications Corbin Media Group 48 Sandy Babb St. Kitty.

Tel: 225-1738 /624-2751.

Email: info2@gemmagonline.com Website: www.gemmagonline.com

Trans Guyana Airways Ogle Aerodrome, E.C.Demerara Tel: 222-2525/2861 . Fax:222-5462 Email: commercial@transguyana.net Website: www.transguyana.net Providing scheduled and charter services for passengers and cargo to over 35 destinations in Guyana.

Wings Aviation Ltd. Ogle Aerodrome, Ogle, E.C.Demerara Tel:222-6513, 226-9098 Fax: 226-9098, 222-5361 Email: wingjet2@networksgy.com/ info@airguyana.net Website: www.airguyana.biz We offer air charter services to over 40 destinations including Kaieteur and Orinduik Falls

AIRLINES

ALLIED MEMBERS

Caribbean Airlines

Precision Woodworking Ltd. 35 Industrial Site, Ruimveldt, G/town.

Tel: 225-2366 / 225-4793 / 225-4862 Fax: 225-6448.

Email: precision@networksgy.com Website: www.precisionguyana.com

Regent St. & Avenue of the Republic Georgetown, Tel: 1 800 744 2225 Reservations: 592 227 3716

AIR SERVICES DOMESTIC CHARTER & CARGO Air Services Limited Ogle Aerodrome, E.C. Demerara Tel:222-4357/4368 Fax:222-2005 .

Email: personel@airservices.com.

Website: www.airservicesltd.com Offering air charter and scheduled domestic services to Guyana’s interior and tourist attractions Roraima Airways Ltd. R8 Eping Ave. Bel Air Park, Georgetown Tel:225-9647/8 . Fax:225-9646 Email: ral@roraimaairways.com Website: www.roriamaairways.com Enjoy a friendly, professional, safe, efficient, reliable and prompt service. Our experienced pilots & well maintained fleet of aircraft will transport you to any destination within Guyana, twenty four hours a day, seven days a week all year round.

BARS & NIGHT CLUBS Bistro 176 Cara Suites, 176 Middle & Waterloo Sts., Georgetown Tel: 226-1612/8 Fax: 226-1541 Email: carasuites@carahotels.com Buddy’s Night Club 137 Sheriff St., Campbellville, Georgetown Tel: 225-3983 / 226-8162. Fax: 226-8156 Email: ryanshivraj@hotmail.com Pegasus Hotel Guyana Seawall Road Kingston, Georgetown. Tel. 225-2853/59.

Fax: 225-3703. Email: reservations@ pegasushotelguyana.com. Website: www. pegasushotelguyana.com Liquid Liner Brandsville Apartments

94 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

89-90 Pike St. Campbellville, Georgetown Tel:226-1133/227-0989. Fax:231-7001 Email: brandsville@gol.net.gy Website: www.brandsville.net Sidewalk Café & Jazz Club 176 Middle Street, Georgetown Tel:227-0152/226-5363 . Fax: 227-0210 Email: sidewalkcafegy@yahoo.co.uk Website: www.ariantzesidewalk.com The Rock Bar Roraima Residence Inn 8 Eping Avenue, Bel Air Park, Georgetown Tel: 225-9647/8. Fax: 225-9646 Email: ral@roraimaairways.com Website: www.roraimaairways.com

RESTAURANTS

SPORTS/TENNIS

Bistro 176 Cara Suites, 176 Middle & Waterloo Sts., Georgetown Tel: 226-1612/4 . Fax:226-1541 Email: caralodge@carahotels.com

Pegasus Hotel Guyana Seawall Road, Kingston, Georgetown Tel: 225-2856 . Fax: 225-3703 Email: reservations@pegasushotelguyana.com Website: www.pegasushotelguyana.com

Brasil Churrascaria & Pizzaria Alberto Bermudez 208 Alexander St. Georgetown Tel: 225-6037 Email: rbarguen2002@yahoo.com barbararaiza@hotmail.com

TOUR OPERATORS

Brown’s Café Hotel Pegasus Guyama, Seawall Road Kingston, Georgetown Tel:225-2853-9. Fax: 225-3703 Email: reservations@pegasushotelguyana.com Website: www.pegasushotelguyana.com

COMPANIES / ORGANIZATIONS Guyana Lottery Company Lamaha St., Georgetown Tel: 226-0753 / 225-9634 / 225-2922.

Fax: 225-9633 Email: glc@guyanalottery.com Website: www.guyana-lottery.com Iwokrama CIDA Building, High St., Kingston, Georgetown.

Tel: 225-1504/7144 . Fax: 225-9199 Email: iwokrama-general@iwokrama.org Website: www.iwokrama.org National Parks Commission Thomas Road, Thomas Lands, Georgetown Tel: 225-8016/226-7974 . Fax: 223-5379 Email: natpark@networksgy.com Website: www.kaieteur.gov.gy Palace De Leon Hospitality Inc. 71 Croal St. Stabroek, Georgetown Tel; 226-5278 Email: leonlesruth@yahoo.com

GIFT SHOPS Creations Craft Ltd 7A Water St. Georgetown Tel: 226-0073/227-0472. Fax: 227-2814 Email: creations@ddsigns.net Website: creations@ddsigns.com

The Bottle at Cara Lodge, 294 Quamina St., Georgetown Tel: 225-5301 . Fax; 225-5310 Email: caralodge@carahotel.com Recognized as the best restaurant in Guyana with a dazzling display of antique Dutch bottles. A perfect setting for enjoying Guyana international cuisine.

Café Tepuy 8 Eping Avenue, Bel Air Park, Georgetown Tel: 225-9648. Fax: 225-9646 Email: ral@roraimaairways.com Website: www.roriamaairways.com Dutch Bottle Café 10 North Road, Bourda, Georgetown Tel: 231-6561 / 226-9648. Fax: 231-6560 Email: dutchbottle@gol.net.gy Website: www.dutchbottle.com El Dorado Restaurant Pegasus Hotel Guyana Seawall Rd., Georgetown Tel: 225-2856. Fax: 225-3703 Email: reservations@pegasushotelguyana.com Website: www.pegasushotelguyana.com Sidewalk Café & Jazz Club 176 Middle St., Georgetown Tel: 227-0152/226-5363 . Fax; 227-0210 Email: sidewalkcafe@yahoo.co.uk Website: www.ariantzesidewalk.com

Adventure Guianas c/o Mikel Plaza 53 Pere Street, Kitty, Georgetown Tel: 227-4713 / 227-3158 / 626-9033 Fax: 227-3196 Email: info@adventureguianas.com Website: www.adventuresguianas.com Team Adventures Guianas is experienced in nature and adventure tourism. We pride ourselves in our ability to customize tours, to meet your itinerary and interest.

“We’ve been there and done that” Air Guyana Tours Ogle Aerodrome, Ogle E.C. Dem. Tel: 222-6513 / 226-9088 Fax: 226-9098 / 222-5361 Email: info@airguyana.net / wingjet2@networksgy.com Website: www.airguyana.biz Christine’s Executive Tour Service 83 Laluni Street, Queenstown, G/town.

Tel: 225-2566 / 645-7333 / 677-5924 Fax: 226-2145 Email: cets09@hotmail.com Website: www.guyanahotel.com Dagron Tours 35 Main Street., Georgetown Tel: 223-7921 / 610-7597 Tel/Fax: 227-1166 Email: dagron@solutions2000.net Website: www.dagron-tours.com Dagron offers a wide range of travel itineraries in South America and the Caribbean. They also offer tours to Kaieteur and Orinduik falls, Essequibo and Mazaruni rivers, Santa Mission, Iwrokrama and Karanambo Ranch, Rock View Lodge, Interior resorts such as Sloth Island, Baganara, Hurakabra, Arrowpoint and many more destinations throughout Guyana.

Contact us for nature, wildlife and bird watching tours, fishing, trekking and hiking.

And for hotel bookings and general ground handling services.

95 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

Evergreen Adventures Inc. 159 Charlotte St., N/C/ Burg, Georgetown Tel: 226-9627/226-0605 / 225-4484.

Fax: 225-1171. Email: evergreen. adventures@webworksgy.com Website: www.evergreen-adventures.com Evergreen offers day tours to the Essequibo and Mazaruni rivers. Kaieteur and Orinduik Falls and city tours. Overnight trips to Baganara, Arrowpoint, Rockview, Karanambu, Iwokrama and others.

Customized itineraries to the three Guianas and North Brazil Sports Fishing packages.

Hurakabra Tours 168 Century Palm Gdns.

Durban Backlands, Lodge Tel: 455-3200 / 225-3557/624-8694.

Fax: 226-0240 Email: gem@hurakabra.com / gems@gol.net.gy Website: www.hurakabragy.com Hurakabra Tours offers fully guiding and management for cruises visiting Guyana.

We also offer day tours to the Essequibo and Mazaruni rivers, Kaieteur and Orinduik Falls and city tours. Overnight trips to Hurakabra. and others.

Iwokrama Canopy Walkway Operated by Community and Tourism Services. Cara Suites, 176 Middle Street, Georgetown Tel: 227-7698.

Tel/Fax: 226 2085 Email: info@iwokrarmacanopywalkwalkway. com Skype: tonywildex Website: www.iwokramacanopywalkwalk. com

Iwokrama Canopy Walkway is a series of suspension bridges and platforms that gets you up to 100 feet into the mid and upper rainforest canopy, in the heart of the Iwokrama Forest.

Roraima Tours Roriama Residence Inn 8 Eping Avenue, Bel Air Park, Georgetown Tel: 225-9648. Fax: 2259646 Email: ral@roraimaairways.com Website: www.roraimaairways.com Discover the lost paradise with Roraima Tours – the only tour operator that allow our clients to experience Guyanese hospitality and professionalism while utilizing a complete tour package with the Roraima BRAND. Timberhead Tropical Adventures 8-10 Providence , E.B.Demerara Tel: 233-5023 / 233-5108. Fax: 233-6608 Email: timberhead@solutions2000.net Website: www.timberheadguyana.com Wilderness Explorers Cara Suites, 176 Middle St., Georgetown Tel: 227-7698. Tel/Fax: 226-2085 Email: info@wilderness-explorers.com Website: www.wilderness-explorers.com Skype: wildernessguyana or tonywildex Offering exiting nature and adventure travel in the wilderness of Guyana, neighbouring South American countries and the Caribbean. Catering for singles and groups for soft adventure and intrepid travel.

Wonderland Tours 85 Quamina & Carmichael Sts., G/Town Tel: 225-3122 / 225-9795 / 676-5696 Email: gtalisha@yahoo.com Website: www.wonderlandtoursgy.com Cortours Inc. 34 Grant 1651, Crabwood Creek, Courentyne Tel: 339-2430 / 623-8456 / 339-2741 / 648-1941 / 626-4605. Fax: 339-2741 Email: ganbros@yahoo.com / cortoursinc@yahoo.com

TOURISM CONSULTANTS Public Communication Consultants Ltd. 168 Century Park Gdns Durban Backlands, Lodge Tel: 225-3557. Tel/Fax: 226-0240 Email: kitnasc@gol.net.gy

TRANSPORTATION Canawaima Management Company (Ferry) Molson Creek, East Corentyne, Berbice Tel: 339-2744/2787 Email: lbw73@yahoo.com

TRAVEL AGENCIES Angellina’s Travel Agency 1995 Parika H/W. E.B. Essequibo. / 91 Middle Street, S/Cburg Tel: 260-4536/7 / 225-1035&7. Fax: 2604537 Email: angellinastravel@hotmail.com / camille_boodhoo@yahoo.com Website: www.angcam.com

Events2010 calendar of

an IATA accredited Full Service Destination Management Company. We represent all major airlines such as Delta Airlines, American Airlines, British Airways, Caribbean Airlines, Air Canada, LIAT and Constellation Tours with onward connections to the US, Europe, Canada and South America. Our travel agency is fully equipped with two computerized airline reservations systems allowing us to offer the broadest range of travel related services.

Special Events & Public Holidays

DIWALI - NOVEMBER

INTERNATIONAL

Connections Travel Service 6 Avenue of the Republic, Georgetown Tel: 227-2810 / 227-2832. Fax: 227-2999 Email: connections@gol.net.gy Roraima International Travel Agency R8 Eping Avenue, Bel Air Park Georgetown.

Tel: 225-9647/8. Fax: 225-9646 Email: ral@roraimaairways.com Website: www.roraimaairawys.com Roraima International Travel Agency is

MOTOR RACING - MARCH

RY

MASHRAMANI - FEBRUA

January January 1 January 1

New Year’s Day Kashif & Shanghai Football Finals

April April April 3

February

May

February

About the Tourism and Hospitality Association of Guyana (THAG)

T

he Tourism and Hospitality Association of Guyana (THAG) was established in January 1991 by a number of persons working in the industry and is a member of the Private Sector Commission.

It was initially called the Tourism Association of Guyana but evolved into Tourism and Hospitality Association of Guyana in recognition of the magnitude of the industry. It is the umbrella body of all tourism related restauranteurs, tour operators, travel agents, craft owners, jewelers, and transportation services, among others.

THAG has pursued partnership with the Government of Guyana in development and expansion of various aspects of the tourism industry; generic marketing, training and development; positioning individual members locally, regionally and internationally to operate with the highest standards in the industry.

THAG is headed by an Executive Board comprising of a President, Vice President, Treasurer and two Committee members. The Secretariat is headed by an Executive Director who is responsible for the day to day management of the association, sits on the Boards of various committees, organizes and participates in trade shows locally and overseas. THAG’s permanent staff also includes an Administrative Officer and Administrative and Marketing Assistant.

THAG and the Government of Guyana, the Ministry of Tourism, Industry and Commerce and the Guyana Tourism Authority, have built a strong alliance to promote and develop Guyana’s many natural and cultural attributes as a tourism destination.

Tourism & Hospitality Association of Guyana Private Sector Commission Building Waterloo Street, Georgetown, Guyana Tel: 011 592 225 0807 Fax: 011 592 225 0817 Email: thag.secretariat@gmail.com Website: www.exploreguyana.org

www.exploreguyana.org 96 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

Cricket – Football (Canadian Clubs – Edward VanLuein) February 23 40th Republic Anniversary of Guyana February 23 Mashramani: February 23 Flag Raising Ceremony February Steel Pan Competition February Tassa Drum Competition February Children’s Costume Parade February Masquerade Competition February Chinese New Year February Calypso Finals Nationwide February 26 Uman Nabi

March

March March March 20

Culinary Delights & Symposium International Motor Racing Yuman-Nabi: Birth of the Prophet (Religious Holiday) March 21 Good Friday (Religious Holiday) March 22 Phagwah (Religious Holiday) March 22-24 Easter Weekend March 22-23 Rupununi Rodeo March/April Pakaraima Safari Cross country March Yachting Meet March 28 Kennard Memorial Horse Race

April April April April 2-5 April 2-5 April 25 - May5 April 3-5

Horse Racing Gospel Fest 2010 Rupununi Wildlife Festival Easter Weekend celebration Linden Town Day Bartica Easter Regatta

Month of Butterflies Bird Watchers Meet Opening Ceremony ICC Twenty20 World Cup

May 1

ICC Twenty20 World Cup Match – England vs. Qualifier 2 May 1 Labour Day (National Holiday) May 2 ICC Twenty20 World Cup Match New Zealand vs. Zimbabwe May 3 ICC Twenty20 World Cup Match – West Indies vs. England

Shri Lanka vs. Zimbabwe May 5 Indian Arrival Day (National Holiday) May 26 Independence Day (National Holiday) May Festival of flowers May Moruca Expo

June June 5 Environmental Day June Wedding Expo – Bridal Festival June Environmental Awareness Week June Motor Racing

July

July Horse Racing July Caricom Day (First Monday) July Berbice Expo July Madhia Expo July Festival of Arts/Music/Sports July 17 & 18 (CACSO) XXI Central American and Caribbean Games Sevens Rugby tournament Providence Stadium July 22 & 23 (NACRA) Sevens Championships Providence Stadium

97 |

EXPLORE GUYANA

HOCKEY FESTIVAL

- NOVEMBER

August August August 1

Mini Festival of the Arts/Music/Sports Emancipation Day (Day of Commemoration/National Holiday) August 1 Wakenaam Day August 2 Digicel Summer Duck Curry Competition August 2 Hamburg Beach August Monday Celebration August Watts Hott Guyana August Madhia Expo August Jamzone 2010Splashmin’s Fun Park and Resort August Biker Fest August Goodwill Swimming Tournament August Bartica Summer Regatta August Lake Mainstay Regatta August (3rd Week) Mining Week August 28 Porkknocker’s Day August 29 Horse Racing August Guyana Music Festival

September September 1-31 Amerindian Awareness Month September 19 Orealla Regatta September International Indigenous People Culture & Dance Festival September Amerindian Pageant September All Star Basketball September (3rd Week)GUYEXPO September Eid-Ul-Fitr (National Basketball)

October October 17 October October October 24 October

Horse Racing Car & Bike Show National Trust Heritage Week Ms Renaissance Pageant National Indoor Hockey Festival

Events2010 calendar of

Special Events & Public Holidays

October October 17

Rockstone Fish Festival Horse Racing & Rodeo

November November 1-30 November 6 November November November November

Tourism Awareness Month THAG Novelty Pet Show Hospitality Week International Motor Racing New Amsterdam Town Day Car & Bike Show

November November November November November November November 29 November November November

Tourism Awareness Month Caribbean & International Motor Bartica Town Day Diwali (Festival of Lights) Main Street Lighting Up Rupununi Expo Accolade Music Awards Guyana Rupununi Day Essequibo Nite Guyana Open Golf Tournament

December December Horse Racing December New Amsterdam Town Day December Eid-ul-Azha December 25 Christmas Day December 26 Boxing Day December 26 Main Big Lime December 31 Old Year’s Day December Christmas Village (Gift & Craft, Tea & Santa)

Share the excitement when in Guyana

Annually Guyanese celebrate a number of special occasions based on its rich cultural heritage and diverse ethnic population. Many of these activities are celebrated across Guyana or staged in specific parts of the country. Be sure to plan your vacation to visit Guyana whether it be to celebrate Mashramani our local carnival, Phagwah the Hindu Spring festival, motor racing or all the thrills of International Cricket, the nation’s number one sport.