Discover Turkey, where to stay

DISCOVERTURKEY where to stay

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THE LORYMA PENINSULA fact file

For beach-lovers: Içmeler boasts the best beach

in the area – a sweeping bay of coarse golden sand with a variety of watersports on offer For culture vultures: Marmaris castle has been turned into a museum displaying local artefacts.

A little further afield, the ruined city of Knidos, lies at the end of the Datça peninsula.

For thrills: Marmaris is a big scuba diving centre

for those who want to explore life under the sea.

For kids: Içmeler is ideal for a family beach holiday.

There are aquaparks in both Marmaris and Içmeler.

For bargain-hunters: The narrow streets of Marmaris’

old town and the bazaar are crammed full of stalls selling everything from T-shirts to pottery.

For night owls: The establishments on Marmaris’ lively bar street might not look like much from the outside but many of them open out into huge courtyards where dancing continues till the early hours Getting away from the crowds: Turunç is a charming, laid-

back resort easily visited by boat from Marmaris or Içmeler.

Eating out: Marmaris has adapted so well to her foreign guests that it is as easy to find a Sunday roast, a Chinese or Indian meal as to find traditional Turkish fare.

Great days out: Marmaris harbour is the starting point for gulets embarking on the famous Blue Cruise. Take a day trip to visit Cleopatra’s Island – it is said that the sand was imported from Africa by Martk Antony for Cleopatra. Alternatively, for a change of atmosphere catch the hydrofoil over to the Greek island of Rhodes.

Nearest airport: Dalaman Distance: Marmaris 115kms; Içmeler 125kms

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Marmaris Marmaris is one of Turkey’s most popular resorts, which attracts lots of British holidaymakers, many of whom return year after year. It is a favourite with families and young couples alike. Due to its popularity, it has grown enormously over the years, hotels rapidly filling the space between the green hills and the azure seas. It is in a stunning setting, its geography remarkably similar to that of the fjords, with pine-clad hills dropping steeply to the sea, jagged inlets and tiny rocky islets off the coast.

There is a wide choice of accommodation, from five star luxury to self-catering apartments, but the vast majority is of three star standard.

What the buildings lack in character they make up for in offering value for money. Most of the accommodation is built on either side of the main seafront road, some is on the seafront itself, but many of the newer

The Loryma Peninsula

3Içmeler bay

image courtesy of Anatolian Sky

hotels are on the hillside in areas such as Armutalan.

The beach can get busy in high season, but many people prefer to stay by the hotel pool. Lined with palms, the seafront has a typical Mediterranean feel and is a great place for an evening promenade. Shops, bars and restaurants line the streets, vying with each other to secure your custom for dinner – each offering something more attractive than the last. There is no hassle though – the local authorities are strict about touts operating in the street, which makes for a more relaxed atmosphere.

By day, life revolves around the narrow strip of sandy beach which runs the length of the resort. Each morning boats leave from the old harbour for day trips to visit the islands and bays around the coast. The area around the harbour offers a taste of the character of the old town, overlooked by the ancient castle, which is now a

museum. The Netsel marina is reached by a small footbridge, and is one of the largest and most modern in Turkey, the hangout of the jetset, who moor their luxury yachts here.

The small shopping centre houses upmarket boutiques and intimate restaurants. The real bargains are to be found in the bazaar area, with hundreds of small shops offering the usual Turkish wares – clothing, leather, jewellery and handicrafts.

There is a wide variety of goods on offer, and it definitely pays to look around and hone your bartering skills to get the best prices.

Marmaris really comes to life though as the sun sets. The shops in the narrow streets stay open until late and the bars and clubs are open until the early hours of the did you know?

The oldest known human settlement is in Catalhöyük, in central Anatolia, Turkey which dates back to 6,500 BC.

where to stay

Turunç

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Içmeler Marmaris

relaxation

history & culture

3Marmaris marina

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copyrighted image kindly supplied by Exclusive Escapes

morning. It is very easy to get around, the main resort area is fairly flat so shouldn’t pose too many problems for those pushing pushchairs or wheelchairs. There are shuttle services operating in high season between Marmaris and İçmeler, as well as the ubiquitous dolmuşes which run from all areas of both resorts and on to Turunç. There are also boat services between the main resorts and even late at night it is easy to find taxis.

image courtesy of Anatolian Sky

İçmeler İçmeler is a popular resort with families, and it is easy to see why. It is much greener than neighbouring Marmaris, with wide streets lined with trees and a relaxed ambience. It nestles in the shelter of dramatic pine-clad mountains with

Nekadar?

How much?

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a wide sweeping bay of coarse sand, where all kinds of watersports are available. The waters are shallow and calm making it relatively safe for children. The views from the beach are stunning, as it appears to be almost surrounded by mountains, dropping steeply into the sea.

There is an abundance of restaurants, serving a full range of Turkish and international cuisine, plenty of lively bars and lots of shops. For those who want serious nightlife, Marmaris is just a short dolmuş or taxi ride away. There is a full range of hotel and self-catering accommodation here, including luxurious 4 and 5 star hotels set right on or overlooking the seafront. Boats head out from the bay for day-trips around the stunning coastline, taking in the tiny islets around the coast. The main resort area is flat, which makes getting around very easy, even with a pushchair or wheelchair, although some of the outlying areas are on slopes.

Turunç Turunç is reached by a steep, winding road, which snakes around the mountains from İçmeler. As you round a sharp bend, you catch your first glimpse of the resort lying in front of you, steep mountains giving way to the small

5Unspoilt beach on the Bozburun peninsula bay with its sparkling waters and sandy beach.

Turunç is a sleepy resort, full of character. The accommodation here is mainly small family-run hotels, with some good self-catering properties. The main street has a good selection of restaurants with a few music bars, and enough shops to cater for your immediate holiday requirements. The roads which lead down to the resort are steep, however, so it is not ideal for those who have difficulty in walking. Boats leave from the charming quayside for daytrips around the surrounding bays and there are also water taxi services to Marmaris, approximately 30 minutes away, for those who want to do some serious bargain-hunting.

Akyaka Akyaka is popular with local Turkish holidaymakers, but accommodation here is only available through a handful of UK operators. It is less than a hour’s drive from Marmaris but in character is worlds away. It is perfect for those who want to experience the real Turkey, away from the crowds. Little more than a village, part of its charm comes from the distinctive

image courtesy of Exclusive Escapes

a small village centre with more restaurants and a few shops. There is a small chemist but no bank and any major purchases are best made in Marmaris.

Datça Datça is set to the end of the peninsula, which stretches out to the west at the point where the Aegean meets the Mediterranean, facing the tiny Greek island of Simi. It is a popular stopping off point for the gulets on a Blue Cruise from Bodrum or Marmaris, but is relatively difficult to access by road, even though Marmaris is just 75 kms away, which means that it has remained relatively undeveloped. This is a blessing for the visitors who come here for its unspoilt beauty and authentic atmosphere. It is a charming village, its whitewashed buildings draped with bougainvillea, with plenty of shops, bars and restaurants serving mostly fish and traditional Turkish fare. There are some beautiful beaches nearby including the bays of Aktur and Kargı. There is a regular ferry service to Bodrum as well as to the Greek island of Simi. The ruins of the ancient Carian city of Knidos stand at the end of the peninsula, some 38 kms away. The city was famed for its temple of Aphrodite, the remains of which can still be seen today, and was an important centre of art and culture in the 4th century BC.

strange but true

St Nicholas – the original Santa Claus – was born in Patara in Turkey and has a church dedicated to him in Demre.

5A small cove near Turunç.

6(below) Marmaris Castle 6(bottom) Içmeler Bay

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local architecture, with octagonal shaped houses with intricately carved wooden ceilings, balconies and window frames.

Lying in the Azmak river valley, Akyaka is surrounded by fragrant eucalyptus trees.

The river winds down through fields to the seafront, where there is a small sandy beach and a number of beachfront restaurants. A few miles outside the town, reached by road or sea is the attractive Çakalı Plajı or pebble beach. There are a number of excellent fish restaurants on the river, and

where to stay

relaxation

history & culture

The Loryma Peninsula

image courtesy of Anatolian Sky

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THE BODRUM PENINSULA fact file

For beach-lovers: The best sandy bay in the area is that of

Bitez, although Gümbet too has a sandy beach and plenty of watersports - Bodrum doesn’t have a beach of its own.

For culture vultures: Visit the ancient theatre, overlooking the town, which is just about all that remains of the city of Halicarnassus. The castle too houses an interesting museum which displays shipwrecks and other items recovered by divers from the vicinity.

For thrills: Head for Gümbet beach where there is a range

of watersports including parasailing and water-skiing.

For kids: Bitez is perfect for a relaxed family

holiday. There are 2 Aquaparks, one on the road to Ortakent and the other in Bodrum itself.

For bargain-hunters: On Tuesdays there is a clothing

market and on Fridays a fruit and vegetable market – a must for those staying in self-catering accommodation – which also sells a range of other goods.

For night owls: Bodrum is renowned for its nightlife, including the famous Halikarnas open-air disco, which has fantastic views over the castle, and a spectacular laser light and floor show.

Getting away from the crowds: Head for one of the small villages on the peninsula for lunch in Yalıkavak or snorkelling in Gümüşlük.

Eating out: Bodrum is also popular with local Turkish tourists, so you can find everything from traditional fare to international cuisine.

Great days out: Take a boat trip to see the sights of the original Blue Cruise, exploring the neighbouring islands and coves.

Nearest Airport: Bodrum Distance: Bodrum 33 km, Milas 16 km, Gümbet 41 km, Bitez 46km

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Bodrum Situated on a peninsula, Bodrum is one of the most chic and European resorts in Turkey, its charm residing in its blend of relaxed Mediterranean atmosphere, historical architecture and its proximity to a vast array of fantastic beaches, fishing villages and trendy nightclubs. The city, known in ancient times as Halicarnassus, town of Herodotus, has grown dramatically in recent years with the opening of an international airport – yet its delightful charm remains intact with palm-lined streets and whitewashed, flat-roofed houses dotted across its terraced hillsides.

The views of the city are exceptionally striking against the stunning backdrop of the Castle of St Peter, which stands formidably between the city’s twin bays. It is even more spectacular in the summer as Bodrum bursts into colour with cascades of bright pink and purple bougainvillea flowing from the dazzling white houses that line its narrow streets, winding down towards the sea.

Bodrum Peninsula

3Bodrum Marina is a popular centre for

relaxation

history & culture

Gulet Cruising throughout the region

Yalıkavak Türkbüku Gümuşluk Turgutrels

Gümbet

Bodrum

3The windmills scattered along

where to stay

Bitez

Bodrum is also the yachting centre of Turkey and its world-class Marina is a favourite destination for yachts that cruise the Aegean and the Mediterranean. It is an excellent place from which to organise a sailing trip with a vast number of sailing companies who cater for all levels of sailing experience. Most will organise boats with or without a crew so whether you are looking to organise a day-trip or take a longer sailing holiday, you can take advantage of the crystal-clear azure seas, stunning coastline and myriad of rocky coves and sandy beaches nearby. October is also the month of the Bodrum Cup Race, attracting yachts from around the world.

Another major attraction of Bodrum is its buzzing cafes, restaurants and shops, as well as its wealth of trendy and sophisticated nightlife. By day, the central bazaar is a great place for shopping

with its array of leather, clothes, carpets, and assorted souvenir and gift shops. Or, if you venture into the narrow streets of the old town around Meyhaneler Sokak, you will discover chic boutiques and souvenir shops, along with rustic Turkish restaurants. There is also a weekly market near the bus station if you want a colourful taste of the native produce, including the delicious locally grown tangerines.

But the city really comes to life at night, with a magical atmosphere that doesn’t sleep until dawn. Whether you are searching for romantic harbour-side dinners, an evening promenade or sipping cocktails in the upmarket marina, there is something to suit everyone. Bodrum also boasts did you know?

The Virgin Mary spent her last days in Selçuk, near the ancient city of Ephesus.

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the hills around Bodrum – now sadly falling into disrepair

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some of the most sophisticated and trendy bars and clubs in Turkey, many with imported DJs, including the internationally famous Halikarnas Disco complete with stunning views of the bay below.

Bodrum has accommodation to suit all tastes and budgets dotted in and around its pretty town centre, but the quietest places to stay are in the west of town and in the hills towards the east. In town, many people like to stay in the Kumbahçe Mahalle away from Cumhuriyet Caddesi, or in the Tepecik district, along or just off Neyzen Tevfik Caddesi. Getting around is also easy with the dolmuş shuttle-services and buses that operate frequent services from the Bodrum otogar to all the nearby towns and villages scattered around the peninsula. Taxis are another very common way to get around, and are easy to find even at night.

Gümbet Named after the domed water-cisterns that speckle the countryside near-by, Gümbet is the closest beach to Bodrum – just 10 minutes

away by car - and is very popular with British holidaymakers, many of whom choose to stay here close to the beach and venture into Bodrum at night. As it has grown in popularity, however, Gümbet has developed in its own right and now offers a wide choice of lively bars and restaurants, popular with a young crowd. Its long sandy beach is lined with hotels and pensions which attract many young people and watersports enthusiasts with its large windsurfing school and diving courses. Other beach-front watersports are also very popular in Gümbet, including parasailing, ringo and water-skiing.

Getting to the centre of Bodrum from Gümbet is very easy with regular dolmuş and bus services, as well as a small caique (boat) service that runs from the beach.

5St Peter’s Castle has dominated this

Gümüşlük

A sophisticated new marina adorns the waterfront at Turgutreis, complete with exclusive cafes, restaurants and boutiques, as well as a host of new bars and discos. Though not very sandy, its beach is very popular with families because the sea is shallow for quite a way out, making it safer for young children. For a more peaceful alternative to the main beach,

Reached by a winding road from Gürece, Gümüşlük is very popular for its secluded setting.

Ever since being designated as an archaeological site, no major buildings have been allowed to alter the landscape, making it a very pleasant place to stay with its unspoilt scenery, long sand

Nasılsınız? İyiyim How are you? I’m fine

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harbour since it was built in 1402.

and gravel beach and a handful of excellent fish restaurants perched right on the sea-front. The site of ancient Myndos, Gümüşlük is scattered with remnants of its historical past: as you look out towards the harbour you will spot the fortification wall, an ancient tower and submerged walls. Also, if you walk towards the south end of the beach, you will also be able to swim very close to some of the ruins, making it the perfect spot for snorkelling. Gümüşlük is accessible by dolmuş from Bodrum or from Turgutreis.

Turgutreis

where to stay

relaxation

history & culture

Bodrum Peninsula

5The building of Bodrum’s ancient theatre was started by Mausolus 4Bodrum is known for its energetic and exciting nightlife

Yalıkavak Formerly the area’s main sponge-fishing port, the village of Yalıkavak maintains a relaxing atmosphere for quaint seaside eating. Its position in the north-western corner of the peninsula, 18km from Bodrum means it is one of the least developed spots in the area with fewer hotels and self-catering apartments, making it an enjoyable stay away from the crowds. As you reach the bay, you will notice the ruins of three old windmills on the hills - the hills around the village are also perfect for picnics and walks, particularly in the spring when they are covered with a

colourful carpet of wild flowers bursting newly into bloom.

Türkbükü Türkbükü is one of Bodrum’s best-kept secrets with its array of exclusive hotels, excellent sea-front restaurants situated on wooden piers and trendy bars that burst into life after sunset. By day, its beach-front cafes and hotels are havens for the jet-set, with fantastic views of the beautiful bay and wooden platforms dotted with sophisticated sun-loungers from which to swim.

Bitez Bitez lies on a bay, a few kilometres west from Bodrum, attracting an older, more upmarket crowd. The gently-sloping coarsesand beach has wooden piers for swimming and is lined with whitewashed hotels and resort villas, whilst also host to a popular

strange but true

Leonardo da Vinci drew designs for a bridge over the Bosphorus, the strait that flows through Europe and Asia. It was never built.

windsurfing and sailing school - Its sheltered cove and shallow water are perfect for beginners. Backed by lush tangerine orchards, Bitez is perfect for those who want to escape the crowds, whilst also having good access to Bodrum with direct dolmuses to and from the city.

Ortakent You can reach Ortakent from the main highway west of Bodrum and it is very popular with Turkish families. Its two-kilometre long beach is considered by many to be one of the best on the peninsula and is dotted with several restaurants, motels and some unique tower-houses.

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there is also a long and sandy beach near the lighthouse on the way towards Akyarlar. There is also good access to Bodrum from Turgutreis, with a regular dolmuş service that stops at the main square in Turgutreis.

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THE FETHIYE REGION fact file

For beach-lovers: The stunning lagoon of Ölüdeniz

is one of the best in Turkey, or you can join the locals at the nearby pebble beach of Gemiler.

For culture vultures: Head to Fethiye Museum, and check out the theatre of Telmessos, built in the early Roman period, which was only excavated in 1994.

For thrills: Ölüdeniz is one of the best places

for Paragliding in the world. The Dalaman river is good for white-water rafting and Fethiye is also a big centre for scuba diving.

For kids: The beaches here are gently shelving and

great for children. Older kids will enjoy the pedalloes on the lagoon itself. There is also an Aquapark in Çalış.

For bargain-hunters: Fethiye’s Tuesday

market is the largest in the area, and there are also smaller markets in Hisarönü on Mondays and Günlükbaşı (for Calış) on Sundays.

For night owls: Hisarönü is probably the liveliest – with a few good dance bars which stay open till the early hours.

Getting away from the crowds: The stone village of Kaya is quite literally deserted. If you set off early in the morning, before the sun is too high, it makes a pleasant walk from Hisarönü. Stop for lunch in one of the village restaurants nearby.

Eating out: A wide choice of Turkish and international cuisine in resorts, but a visit to the area would be incomplete without sampling some locally caught fresh fish.

Great days out: Visit the ancient Lycian city of Tlos and marvel at the ruins that overlook the breathtaking Xanthos Valley including an Ottoman fortress, Lycian tombs, a theatre and a bath complex.

Nearest airport: Dalaman Distance: Fethiye 40 kms; Ölü Deniz 48 kms

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Ölüdeniz Ölüdeniz is the archetypal picture-postcard beach, backed by dramatic pine-clad hills, and is the view that you see on many a brochure cover.

Literally translated as ‘dead sea’, the stunning lagoon is a protected area, ensuring that its natural beauty is preserved. There is a small entrance charge to use the lagoon beach and only non-motorised watersports are allowed on the lagoon itself. The main resort beach, which is free entry, is the long stretch of coarse sand and shingle, known as Belceğiz beach. Most of the accommodation, built in the traditional local Muğla style, is set back from the beachfront and in the streets behind. There is a strip alongside the seafront promenade with a number of relaxed bars, restaurants serving local and international cuisine and shops, which stay open well into the night. It is a perfect family resort, great for a laid-back beach holiday, with plenty of facilities but not too much development. Boats leave from the bay for trips around the surrounding

The Fethiye Region

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3Paragliding over the stunning lagoon of Ölüdeniz.

Göcek

Fethiye

Hisarönü

where to stay

Ölüdeniz

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coast and paragliding is a big draw with the descent from the Babadağ mountains to land on Belceğiz beach, rating as one of the best in the world.

away in the opposite direction. You can, however, easily spend your time in Hisarönü itself, lazing by the pool, and venturing out at night to sample international or local fare in one of the many restaurants, and visit its lively bars playing music well into the early hours. There are plenty of shops here too, with a wider range on offer than in Ölüdeniz itself.

Hisarönü Fifteen years ago there were only a few houses here but now it is a lively resort in its own right. Due to the planning restrictions and lack of space to expand in Ölüdeniz itself, many holidaymakers now stay in this lively village. It is in a stunning location, surrounded by stunning pine-clad mountains, and hotels are all built in the local style, low rise, mostly with rooms set in villa-style blocks and decorative wooden balconies. The beach of Ölüdeniz is just a short dolmuş ride away (approx. 15 minutes), and the town of Fethiye is also easily reached, approximately the same distance

did you know?

Julius Caesar proclaimed his celebrated words, “Veni, Vidi, Vici” (I came, I saw, I conquered) in Turkey when he defeated the Pontus, a formidable kingdom in the Black Sea region of Turkey.

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3The eerie deserted houses of Kayaköy

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3The spectacular and unforgettable Saklıkent Gorge

Çalış Beach The nearest beach to Fethiye is Çalış beach, a pebble and coarse sand beach in a beautiful setting, which can be reached by boat or dolmuş from the town centre. The seafront promenade with its hotels and restaurants is closed to traffic during the summer, making it safe for children.

The resort has expanded around the beach, and has a relaxed feel popular with families and older couples.

Kayaköy

Ovacık Just a short distance from Hisarönü, is the newer resort area of Ovacık, which is essentially a collection of hotels and apartment buildings, blending in with the stunning mountain scenery.

It is more peaceful than its neighbour, and all facilities are in the centre of Hisarönü just a short walk or dolmuş ride away. Ovacık makes a good base for those who want to walk in the surrounding countryside.

in the narrow streets of the bazaar area, Paspatur, offering more competitive prices than those in any of the resorts. In the evenings head for this lively area for live music and Turkish bars.

There is no beach in Fethiye itself although there are hotels which have access to the sea

Göcek

Fethiye Fethiye is a traditional market town set around a beautiful natural harbour. It is a big centre for scuba diving and boats leave from here for day trips around the stunning coastline. The most popular is the 12 islands boat trip, a relaxing way to spend the day, touring the beautiful coves and islands of the Gulf of Fethiye, with breaks for lunch and swimming. Life here continues all year round, and recently, many British nationals have chosen to make this relaxed area their home. There are a number of hotels in the town itself, which mostly attract older couples, who enjoy the traditional lifestyle and also like the fact that it is flat and easy to get around. There is a greater variety of shops

Göcek is popular with yachting types who come here for its excellent marina. It is a charming resort with a range of sophisticated hotels and upmarket restaurants and boutiques.

Saklıkent Gorge

for swimming. Once the site of the ancient city of Telmessos, all that remains are the Lycian rock tombs, which overlook the modern town, a couple of Lycian sarcophagi and a small Roman theatre.

En yakın plaj nerede?

Where is the nearest beach?

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One of the highlights of a stay in this area is a visit to the eerie ghost town of Kayaköy, literally ‘stone village’. Once the Greek town of Karmylassos, it was abandoned in the 1920’s.

It has recently been the subject of renewed interest as it features as the setting for Louis de Bernières novel, ‘Birds without Wings’ which provides a fascinating insight into life here and the period of dramatic social change which took place in the time leading up to the foundation of the Republic of Turkey. There are around 400 houses here together with churches and other public buildings. It can be visited by dolmuş, on foot from Hisarönü or even on horse-back.

Known in Turkish as the ‘hidden city’, Saklıkent is a stunning mountain gorge some 44 kms from Fethiye, a narrow opening stretching an incredible 18 kms into the rockface of Mount Akdağ. A wooden walkway has been constructed above the icy cold waters of the mountain springs of Gökçesu and Ulupınar. If you are feeling particularly brave you can take a dip here, but otherwise the waterside cafes provide a relaxing break and a chance to enjoy the spectacular setting.

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where to stay

relaxation

history & culture

The Fethiye Region

5The view over Ölüdeniz lagoon

copyrighted image kindly supplied by Exclusive Escapes

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THE TURKISH RIVIERA fact file For beach-lovers: Side has a long stretch of

golden sand, known appropriately as Kumköy or ‘sand village’, with many of its newer, more luxurious hotels leading right on to the beach.

For culture vultures: You really don’t have to go far afield. Side’s Temple of Apollo makes a romantic spot at sunset, and the ancient theatre and charming museum are well worth exploring, but set off early in the morning so that you will miss the sun at its height, For thrills: Head up into the hills for a jeep

safari to explore the beautiful mountain scenery and discover traditional villages.

For kids: The beach is ideal for kids, and there

is a big Aquapark in Antalya, nearby For bargain-hunters: Side is full of shops, its narrow

streets packed with stalls selling everything imaginable.

For night owls: Side has good night life. The old town has a few bars, mostly with an authentic atmosphere, some with views over the old peninsula and the ruins.

There are some large night clubs just outside the town, some of which operate shuttle services from the centre.

Getting away from the crowds: Take a boat trip on the stunning Manavgat River, where you can swim in the cool waters, relax and enjoy the scenery.

Eating out: There are plenty of restaurants in Side, serving a range of local food and Turkish specialities.

Great days out: Visit Antalya, the main city of this region to see its charming old town, Kaleiçi, or play a round of golf at one of the superb courses at nearby Belek.

Nearest airport: Antalya Distance: Side 50 kms, Kemer 60 kms, Alanya 125 kms, Belek 25 kms

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The Turkish Riviera is the most stunning part of Turkey’s Mediterranean coast. A relatively recent discovery for British and Irish holidaymakers, it is growing rapidly in popularity.

Side The old town of Side is set on a peninsula with sandy beaches to either side, surrounded still by the ancient city walls. It boasts an impressive ancient Hellenistic theatre, the largest in the area, with seating for 17,000, overlooking the sea; a charming museum and the stunning Temple of Apollo, a romantic spot at sunset. The old town is limited by the walls and the sea, which has been a bonus, meaning that the accommodation here is mostly pensions and small hotels. The long stretch of sandy beach a few kilometres outside the old town, known with good reason as ‘kumköy’ or ‘sand village’, has become the centre of tourism development in the town and is now home to large four and five star hotels and

The Turkish Riviera

relaxation

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3Antalya Harbour

Antalya Belek Side Kemer

good quality self-catering accommodation. Side has something for everyone: great beaches, history, an abundance of shops, lively nightlife and a good choice of restaurants.

Antalya Antalya, the ancient city of Attaleia, is the largest on the Mediterranean. It is typical of Turkey, a thriving modern city, with a historic heart in the centre of Kaleiçi, within the old city walls. This area has seen something of a renaissance in recent years, with many of the wooden Ottoman mansions being restored and turned into boutique hotels. No cars are allowed in the narrow streets of the old town so it is a good place to soak up the atmosphere around the charming harbour. The symbol of Antalya is the fluted minaret or Yivli Minare built by the Seljuk sultan Alaeddin Keykubat in the

13th century. Culture vultures will find plenty of interest in the Archaeological Museum which has artefacts from the Paleolithic Age right through to Ottoman times. Antalya has a backdrop of stunning mountain scenery, and the city is set high on cliffs, with many of its grandest hotels overlooking the sea on the outskirts of the town. The beach area of Lara, approximately 12 kms to the east is home to the best beach in the area, known for its golden sand, which is rapidly becoming a resort in its own right. To the west, the long pebble beach of Konyaaltı is also popular. Heading up into the mountains, you can make the most of the beautiful scenery by visiting the spectacular Düden or Kurşunlu Waterfalls to see a completely different side to the Turkish landscape. At Saklıkent, just did you know?

Aesop – famous for his fables and parables – was born in Anatolia.

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3Kurşunlu Falls

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Alanya

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3Towers flanking the city gate of ancient Perge

species of plant and wildlife indigenous to the area. Accommodation is mostly of the 5 star variety with all facilities laid on including sporting and other activities, spa treatments and entertainment. Many of the hotels are also set up to cater for children with kids clubs and other facilities.

Alanya

50 kms away you can even visit a ski resort, where they usually have snow on the pistes until early April.

The Altlın Portakal, ‘Golden Orange’ film festival is held in the Autumn. Antalya has a large number of 5 star hotels, many of which have meetings facilities, and this, together with the Pyramid Congress Centre which can hold up to 3000 delegates make it a popular venue for conferences.

the Aspendos Opera and Ballet Festival which takes place in June and July and gives you the opportunity to see performances of classics in a magnificent setting. The aqueduct, which supplied water to the city is also still relatively intact and is an impressive sight.

Once a pirate stronghold, Alanya is now a modern resort, famed for its beautiful sandy beaches. Its harbour is dominated by the Kızılküle or Red Tower, which protected the dockyards in Seljuk times, the remains of which can still be seen in the waters. High on a promontory is the old fortress or kale.with its well preserved walls, towers and Byzantine church. It takes about an hour to walk up (or you can catch a bus) but it is well worth it for the views alone. Alanya itself has no less than three blue flag beaches and has a full range of accommodation with plenty of good shops and restaurants, together with lively nightlife.

An unusual sight is the Damlataş Cave with its strange rock formations, which is said to relieve those who suffer from asthma. A boat trip will take you to the Fosforlu Mağara with its phosphorescent rocks, Kızlar Mağarası, where pirates imprisoned their female captives and the lovers’ caves or Aşıklar Mağarası. Just 15 kms to the east is the idyllic scenery of the Dim Çayı river.

Perge Kemer Just 18 kms from Antalya, Perge was an important city in Pamphylia and was visited by St. Paul during his missionary journeys. Today, the city gate flanked by lofty towers, theatre and baths are of interest,

Kemer was one of Turkey’s first purposebuilt resorts, carefully planned to blend in

Aspendos

Belek

Just 50 kms east of Antalya, Aspendos was an important centre of trade during Roman times. Today, the most impressive aspect of Aspendos is her stunning theatre, which was built in approx. 162 AD. It seats 15,000 and has been beautifully preserved. Each year it hosts

Belek is Turkey’s premier golf resort (see page 40 for details), but don’t let that put you off as it also has plenty to attract the non-golfer too.

The setting is spectacular with long, golden sandy beaches, and a backdrop of mountains.

Belek has won awards for environmentally friendly development and there are many rare

Çok teşekkür ederim Thank you very much

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with the surrounding scenery. At its heart is the attractive marina, a stopping-off point for gulets on the blue cruise. Around it are sophisticated shops, bars and restaurants cater-

where to stay

relaxation

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The Turkish Riviera

5The unspoilt beach at Olympos.

4The natural wonder of the Chimaera or ‘burning stone’.

Phaselis The three harbours of this Lycian port city were once a major commercial centre. In the shelter of Mount Tahtalı, it is a popular stopping off point for yachts, and its clear waters and sandy beaches are popular with sun-seekers. The remains are mostly Roman and include a theatre, baths, aqueducts, Hadrian’s Gate, an agora and an acropolis.

Olympos and Yanartaş (Chimaera) The ancient city, which was prominent in Lycian times, is set on the southern side of Mount Tahtalı, surrounded by oleander and laurel bushes.

It is in a charming spot set on a 3 mile long beach amidst unspoilt nature, and the ruins include baths, a temple, Roman theatre and necropolis. To the north of Olympos, past the attractive beachfront hamlet of Çiralı, high on the hillside is the legendary burning flame of Yanartaş, literally ‘burning stone’.

Caused by natural gas escaping from the rocks, it is immortalised in the legend of the Lycian hero Bellerophon, mounted on his winged horse, Pegasus, slew the fire-breathing monster, the Chimaera. In Byzantine times it was a religious site, and

strange but true

The Turks introduced coffee to Europe when the retreating Ottoman army abandoned sacks of it at the gates of Vienna.

there are remains of a temple here probably dedicated to Vulcan.

Demre Also known as Kale, the ancient city of Myra, is mostly famous for its connection with St. Nicholas, who was bishop here in the 4th century. His church is the focus of the annual ceremony which takes place to commemorate him on or around his feast day of 6th December. It is well worth seeing the Roman theatre which remains here, overlooked by spectacular rock tombs, dating from the 4th century BC.

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ing for the resort’s well-heeled clientele.

Kemer Beach is a clean pebble beach, but the main resort areas are on the beaches located a little further out, namely Kızıltepe, Göynük, Beldibi, Çamyuva and Tekirova.

Surrounded by pine forests, they offer a range of accommodation including five star hotels, all designed to blend in to the natural environment.

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THE KALKAN REGION fact file For beach-lovers: Head to the beautiful 22 km

long golden, sandy beach of Patara, where you will have plenty of space to spread out.

For culture vultures: There is so much to see in the area including the ancient cities of Patara, Xanthos and Myra, which are all nearby.

For thrills: Kaş has become a centre for adventure

sports offering sea kayaking, mountain biking and canyoning as well as scuba diving.

For kids: On the whole, the resorts in this area do not

have facilities specifically catering for children but the tiny hamlet of Çiralı is great for a relaxed beach holiday to experience the authentic Turkish lifestyle.

For bargain-hunters: Visit the Thursday market

in Kalkan to practise your bartering skills.

For night owls: Nightlife is low-key. There are jazz bars, other live-music bars and several popular small dancing bars with comfortable seating for non-dancers.

Getting away from the crowds: Head to Olympos and make the trek up into the hills to see the breath-taking natural wonder of the Chimaera or Yanartaş, burning stone.

Eating out: Kalkan is ideal for romantic candlelit

dinners to sample the local fish or traditional Turkish cuisine in roof-top restaurants offering atmospheric, moonlit dining, with stunning views.

Great days out: Don’t miss a boat trip to take

in the haunting sunken city of Kekova and the charming castle of Simena, with time for snorkelling and swimming in the clear waters.

Nearest airport: Dalaman Distance: Kalkan 143 kms; Kaş 114 kms

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Sophisticated resorts providing an authentic experience, in the midst of history and stunning nature

Kalkan In recent years, Kalkan has become an in spot for upmarket couples seeking a taste of authentic Turkey. It is a pretty village of stone-built houses set on a hillside around the attractive harbour. Narrow lanes lead down to the seafront, packed with shops, sophisticated bars and restaurants, mostly serving traditional Turkish fare, with some excellent seafood and fish restaurants on the harbour-front. The roads are steep so you need to be relatively fit to get around, but the hotels and villas set higher up on the hillside, benefit from stunning views down over the pretty bay. Due to the landscape there is simply no room for large-scale development so most of the hotels are small and intimate. The resort has expanded rapidly in recent years, however, and the buildings have

The Kalkan Region

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3The charming harbour of Kalkan.

Patara Kalkan Kekova Island

3A typical tomb at the site

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Kaş

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of ancient Xanthos.

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extended beyond Kalkan itself to the bays on either side, such as Kalamar bay to the west – a long walk or a short taxi ride away from the centre. Most of the hotels on the seafront in this area and the ‘beaches’ have access to the sea via platforms or ladders, straight into deep water. Kalkan does have a small pebble town beach, but serious beach-lovers head out by the regular dolmuş service to stunning Kaputaş, approximately 6 kms away, a fine pebble and shingle beach which has clear, impossibly turquoise water. It is reached by a long flight of steps with no facilities and no shade, so you need to come prepared.

Others prefer the long stretch of sandy beach at Patara, which is reached by a regular dolmuş service. Boats leave from the harbour here and from nearby Kaş, approx. 26 kms away, for trips around the bays and to the surrounding islands. Kalkan has

a unique ambience and is one of the most sophisticated of Turkey’s resorts, but is not recommended for those with difficulty in walking or for those with small children.

The ancient sites of Xanthos and Letoon are within easy reach of Kalkan. For further details see page 32.

did you know?

Homer was born in Izmir on the west coast of Turkey and he depicted Troy, which is north of Izmir, in his Epic the Iliad.

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copyrighted image kindly supplied by Exclusive Escapes

Kaş Kaş is a relaxed harbour town, which until recently was relatively untouched by tourism.

It is now becoming a firm favourite with older couples, who love its laid-back atmosphere.

tiny, whitewashed mosque. Wooden Ottoman houses, their balconies bright with bougainvillea, overhang the narrow streets, home to shops, bars and restaurants. As you wander, you may come across the ancient sarcophagus, which is a remnant of the ancient city of Antiphellos, whose well-preserved theatre has also survived to the present day. Overlooked by Lycian rock tombs, Kaş is in a picturesque spot looking out on the Greek island of Kastellorizo known as Meis in Turkish, a short boat trip away. There are a number of pebble beaches in the surrounding bays, easily reached by the boats which leave from the harbour and Kaputaş is approximately 20 kms to the west. The stunning Çukurbağ peninsula, just outside the town, has recently become home to a number of sophisticated boutique hotels.

Patara

Recently, it has also become a magnet for those seeking a taste of adventure, as it is a big centre for scuba diving and also offers activities such as trekking, canoeing, canyoning and horse riding. The name Kaş means ‘eyebrow’, describing the curved shape of the pretty harbour, with its traditional tea garden and

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Patara has the honour of being the longest beach in Turkey – 22 kms of beautiful white sand, backed by dunes and mimosa bushes. It was once the most important harbour in Lycia, famous for its oracle of Apollo, until it silted up in the Middle Ages. It was the birthplace of St. Nicholas and it is known that St. Paul and St. Luke visited. The site is fascinating, the remains part buried in the sands, evocative and intrigu-

5the spectacular sand dunes of Patara 4a partially submerged tomb in the sunken city of Kekova

ing. They include an acropolis, temple, agora, theatre, baths and the magnificent triumphal arch. The beach is a nesting place for the rare caretta caretta turtles and access is not permitted after dark.

Kekova Usually reached by boat from Üçağız, the area of Kekova, named after its largest island, is a group of islands and bays, home to a number of ancient Lycian settlements, some of which are now submerged in the sea. This beautiful spot is easily visited on a day’s boat trip from Kalkan or Kaş. The most atmospheric spot is the ‘sunken city’ or batık şehir, where ancient houses, stairs and pavements can be seen submerged in the clear waters. It is now forbidden to swim here. A boat trip usually takes in a visit to nearby Kaleköy or Simena Castle, a charming port overlooked by the ruins of a Crusader castle, which offers stunning views of the surrounding scenery.

fact ďŹ le

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The Kalkan Region

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THE NORTH AEGEAN fact file For beach-lovers: Head out of town to Long Beach, a 6km

stretch of sand, approx. 20 minutes away to the south by dolmuş or the sandy beach of Kuştur 5 kms to the north.

For culture vultures: Ephesus, the bestknown of Turkey’s ancient cities is right on your doorstep just 30 minutes drive away.

For thrills: Take a jeep safari to explore the stunning

mountain scenery in the surrounding area.

For kids: The beaches are perfect for children

and Kuşadası has two of Europe’s biggest aquaparks – Adaland and Aquafantasy, both have free shuttle services from the resort centre.

For bargain-hunters: The food market takes place on

Fridays, and for clothes bargains try the Wednesday market.

For night owls: For the liveliest bars head for Bar street or for something a little more sophisticated try the area of Kaleiçi.

Getting away from the crowds: The stunning National Park on the Dilek Peninsula is well worth a visit as is the village of Sirince, in the eastern mountains of Selçuk, 15 kms away. An old Greek village, it is famous for its local wine and olive oil. Try the traditional gözleme pancakes.

Kuşadası Eating out: Kuşadası has adapted so well to her foreign

guests that it is as easy to find a Sunday roast, a Chinese or Mexican meal as to find traditional Turkish fare.

Great days out: Don’t miss Ephesus, and Kuşadası is also the nearest beach resort to the stunning ‘cotton castle’ of Pamukkale. It is easy to arrange an excursion for the 4-hour drive inland to see this unique natural wonder, together with the ancient city of Hierapolis.

Nearest airport: Adanan Menderes Airport, Izmir Distance: Kusadasi 80 kms

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Kuşadası is one of Turkey’s largest and most cosmopolitan resorts and a stopping off point for the big cruise-liners. It is a good all round resort, offering great beaches, excellent shopping and some serious nightlife. Kuşadası literally means ‘Bird Island’ and takes its name from the tiny islet known as Güvercin Adası or Pigeon Island, which is attached to the mainland by a causeway and boasts a 14th century Genoese fort. There are a number of sandy beaches in the area. Kadınlar Plajı or ‘Ladies Beach’ is central but can get crowded so it is wiser in high season to head a little further out of the centre where the beaches are just as sandy but offer more space. Kaleiçi is the old centre of the town and is a popular shopping and entertainment area. The Ottoman Kervansaray or traveller’s inn is now in private hands but is an impressive building and a landmark in the town centre. Today’s travellers can

North Aegean

3Dining with views over the bay of Kuşadası towards

Troy

Pergamum

Izmir

Çeşme

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6The Library of Celsus at Ephesus

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Pigeon Island from which the resort takes its name

Ephesus

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Kuşadası

find comfort in a full range of accommodation in all categories and of all sizes.

Kuşadası’s setting also makes it a good base for those wanting to visit Ephesus which is only approximately 30 minutes’ drive away.

It is also surrounded by some of Turkey’s most beautiful national park including the Kalamaki National Park, which lies on the Dilek Peninsula, approx. 30 kms to the south. Dense pine trees cover the mountains which plunge dramatically down to beaches and crystal-clear sea. Some of Turkey’s rarest wild animals can be found here including the Anatolian cheetah and wild horses.

Sundays are often busy with local visitors. Another stunning spot

in the vicinity is Lake Bafa which is approx. 80 kms south east of Kuşadası.

Ephesus Ephesus is the most famous of Turkey’s ancient cities. It was the site of the Temple of Artemis, to whom the city was dedicated, which was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. During Roman times it was the most did you know

The smallpox vaccination was introduced to England and Europe from Turkey by Lady Montagu in the early 19th century (after Turkish physicians saved her son’s life).

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3The stunning site of ancient Pergamum

buildings including: the Konak Clock Tower (saat kulesi) which has become a symbol of the city; the Kızlarağası Han, a restored travellers’ inn, which is now a craft market; and the Asansör, a working elevator.

Çeşme

important port on the Aegean and a commercial centre, which also played a significant role in the spread of Christianity. It has been well excavated and gives the visitor a real sense of the scale of the city and of what life may have been like in Roman times. As well as the grand public buildings such as the impressive Library of Celsus, the theatre and the Temple of Hadrian, the remains include streets, private houses, public toilets and even a brothel. Most of the remains date from the 4th century BC, although there was probably a city on this site as far back as 1000 BC. The Virgin Mary is believed to have spent her last days in Ephesus, which was one of the Seven Churches of the Apocalypse mentioned in Revelations. The other churches too are around this area of Turkey. For further information see page 44.

Nearby in Selçuk is the Basilica of St. John, dating from the 6th century and a Byzantine citadel.

Pergamum Pergamum, modern-day Bergama, is another of the Seven Churches. It is one of Turkey’s most impressive sites, the ruins of the ancient

city set high on a hillside dramatically overlooking the modern town. It was a great centre of culture with a famous library and the renowned Asclepion, dedicated to the god of health. The theatre is well-preserved and set into a steep hillside and the other remains include the monumental altar of Zeus, a gymnasium and the agora.

İzmir Ayvalık İzmir is the third largest of Turkey’s cities and the second largest port after İstanbul. Known in ancient times as Smyrna, it has had a long and illustrious past, and today, has a reputation as a relaxed, cosmopolitan city and cultural centre.

It has no beach but it certainly merits a day-trip from any of the resorts nearby. It is good for shopping and there is plenty of cultural and historic interest including the superb Archaeological Museum, the Fine Arts Museum and the Ethnography Museum. Some of the best views of the city are to be enjoyed from the vantage point of the Kadifekale (translated as ‘velvet castle’), the ruined castle which stands high above the city and was built during the reign of Alexander the Great. The Agora or marketplace is a remnant of the Roman city, and there are a number of significant Ottoman

Hesap lütfen Can I have the bill please

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Çeşme is a charming, sleepy resort town, dominated by the 14th century castle of St. Peter. It has two main streets, where shops, restaurants and a couple of bars are situated. Most of the hotels are set on the beaches outside the centre.

Ilıca is one of the most impressive, with its fine, white sand, and Altınkum (golden sand) beach is also renowned. The peninsula has excellent conditions for windsurfing and Alaçati beach is one of the best spots for this. Çeşme means ‘spring’, named after the natural springs found in the area. Ilıca is still a popular centre for thermal treatments. For further details see page 46. Ferries run between ports in Italy and Çeşme as well as between Çeşme and the Greek island of Chios. See the factfile for details.

Ayvalık is an attractive port, surrounded by pine forests, with charming stone houses and cobbled streets. It is popular with local Turkish holidaymakers and a great place for those who want to escape the crowds and soak up the authentic atmosphere. There are good sandy beaches approx. 6 kms south of the town in the area of Sarmısaklı.

Altınkum Altınkum literally means ‘golden sand’ an apt description of the beautiful beach in this relaxed resort. Popular with families it has a range of accommodation and plenty of restaurants and bars for entertainment. There are lots of shops and an attractive street market in the

North Aegean

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4The unforgettable white terraces of Pamukkale

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centre. It is popular with both Turkish and international holidaymakers. It is also a good base from which to visit the nearby sites of Priene, with its superb stadium, theatre and Ionic Temple of Athena; Miletus with its 15,000-seater theatre and Baths of Faustina; and Didyma. The impressive site of the temple of Apollo at Didim, ancient Didyma, is well worth a visit. It was one of the ancient world’s most sacred places, one of the fore-most oracles of the Greek world.

It was originally built in the 7th century BC and then restored by Alexander the Great.

The early Christians converted it to a church.

It has been well preserved and the head of Medusa is of particular interest.

The resort of Foça is popular with Turkish holidaymakers living in nearby İzmir. Its historic sites include a Genoese castle and a small ancient theatre. The resort is split into two bays with beaches in each. Yenifoça or ‘new Foça’ is just 23 kms away by boat and has even better, and more secluded beaches.

The Gelibolu peninsula, which forms the western border of the narrow straits known as the Dardanelles, was the scene of one of the bloodiest campaigns of the First World War. In 1915 the Allied forces (British, Australian, New Zealand, French and

Indian) tried to seize the straits, but were fought off by the Turkish army, inspired by the young officer, Mustafa Kemal, later to become Atatürk, who defended the area.

500,000 soldiers lost their lives during the 9 month battle with its bitter trench warfare.

The Gelibolu (Gallipoli) National Historic Park is dedicated to those who died and it

includes a number of cemeteries, memorials and museums. Most visitors stay in the attractive town of Çanakkale nearby.

Troy For further information on the ancient site of the legendary city of Troy see page 32.

Pamukkale The stunning white terraces of Pamukkale and the neighbouring site of Hierapolis are situated inland, close to the town of Denizli. They can be reached from most of the coastal resorts on a one or two day trip but Kuşadası is the closest – approximately 4 hours drive away. For further information on Pamukkale see page 32.

3 a memorial to the soldiers who lost their lives at Gallipoli

strange but true

Part of Turkey’s south western shore was a wedding gift from Mark Antony to Cleopatra.

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Gallipoli

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Foça

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DALYAN fact file

For beach-lovers: The beautiful spit of sand which

is the İztuzu Beach is completely undeveloped, and is reached by a pleasant boat trip from Dalyan.

For culture vultures: Visit the ruined city of ancient Caunos, with its impressive theatre and Temple of Apollo.

For thrills: Dalyan is such a sleepy town that you

will have to head further afield for paragliding at Ölüdeniz or scuba diving in Fethiye or Marmaris.

For kids: Dalyan is perfect for a relaxed family holiday

but there are no specific facilities for children. They are sure to enjoy the mud baths at nearby Ilıca and Sultaniye – a good excuse to get as muddy as possible and really wallow. They will also enjoy going on an early morning boat trip to try and spot the graceful river turtles.

For bargain-hunters: Visit the market in nearby

Köyceğiz, or buy souvenirs in the small shops in Dalyan – they do a great line in all types of turtle!

For night owls: the nightlife is very laid back but there

are some nice bars here, which are open until late.

Getting away from the crowds: Take a trip to the

stunning Lake Köyceğiz, and visit the waterfalls where the locals go to cool off and have a refreshing swim.

Eating out: There are some charming restaurants on the riverfront, as well as a good selection in the town itself, serving mostly fish and traditional Turkish cuisine.

The tastiest way to eat, though, is to stop for a barbecue lunch on board, of freshly-caught fish or crab.

Nearest airport: Dalaman Distance: Dalyan 27 kms

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Dalyan is just 30 minutes from Dalaman airport, and was destined to become a centre for large-scale tourism development. Plans changed, however, in the mid 80’swhen it was discovered that the beautiful spit of sandy beach is a nesting ground for the rare Caretta caretta or loggerhead turtles which lay their eggs here in the clean fine sand.

Dalyan, has remained, therefore, a sleepy haven its unspoilt nature protected by strict regulations which mean that the beach is not accessible after dark.

Dalyan is on a river delta, its narrow waterways, surrounded by reed beds. The small town is set to a backdrop of stunning mountains, the river overlooked by ancient Lycian-style tombs carved high into the rock face. There are some good restaurants on the riverfront and the main street is home to a selection of restaurants and shops and a few bars.

The town itself is flat and easy to get around. Boats depart regularly from the riverfront for the short trip to İztuzu beach, approximately 40

Dalyan

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3The ancient rock tombs overlooking the reed beds of Dalyan

3Mud baths in the vicinity of Dalyan

minutes away. It is a beautiful bar of fine, golden sand gently shelving into the sea. Since there is no development, here, however, there is little in the way of facilities so it is best to come prepared. The beach can also be reached by dolmuş.

Those who stay in Dalyan have a choice of self-catering and hotel accommodation, from 4 star hotels to simple pensions. Most are built in traditional style to fit in with the natural setting, and many are set on the beautiful riverfront. Many people, however, visit Dalyan on a day-trip by boat from nearby resorts such as Marmaris and Fethiye.

The ruins of the ancient city of Caunos are close by and can by reached by boat or on foot. It was originally on the sea, but its harbour gradually silted up and felt into disuse. It has only

been partially excavated but the remains are extensive and include a theatre dating from the 2nd century BC, Roman baths, temple of Apollo and agora or marketplace.

Close to Dalyan are the thermal springs and mudbaths of Ilıca and Sultaniye, which are reputed to have many health-giving powers and are a fun and relaxing way to unwind.

Recently, there have been a number of developments at the nearby bay of Sarıgerme, with its beautiful sandy beach, surrounded by pine forests. did you know?

The famous Trojan Wars took place in western Turkey, around the site where a wooden statue of the Trojan Horse has been erected today.

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5The unspoilt beach of Iztuzu

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Dalyan

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ISTANBUL

highlights

For opulence: Visit Topkapı Palace – there is so much to see here that you need at least 1⁄2 a day. Book a tour of the Harem when you arrive and don’t miss the stunning emeralds and other jewels. See also pages 10-15.

For atmosphere: Explore the world under the

pavements, in the Yerebatan cisterns, which stored water for the Byzantine city, with their hundreds of columns, artfully lit to a soundtrack of classical music.

For beauty: Marvel at the stunning mosaics which still

decorate the walls of Haghia Sophia (Aya Sofya).

For culture: If you only have time to visit one mosque make it the Blue Mosque – if you are in İstanbul for longer, take in the Süleymaniye too. See also pages 10-15 For shopping: Visit the Grand Bazaar, where you will find yourself buying things you never knew you needed. Take a trip to Ortaköy to shop at the Sunday market on the shores of the Bosphorus.

For panoramic views: Take a boat trip on the

Bosphorus for the best views of the city.

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İstanbul is truly a world city, a city which everyone should visit at least once in their lifetime. It is an enchanting blend of Eastern and Western culture, a vibrant, modern city, with an unique identity, its rich past coexisting alongside its youthful exuberance. Although no longer the capital of Turkey – Atatürk created Ankara as the capital at the heart of his new Turkish Republic, as a symbolic break from the Ottoman Empire – it remains the country’s cultural and business centre.

It is a city of contrasts, bustling with the cacophony of 21st century life, and yet achingly beautiful. It is set in a stunning location, surrounded by water – the narrow strait of the Bosphorus and the serene Sea of Marmara separating Europe from Asia. İstanbul has a foot in each, celebrating the best of both heritages. As Byzantium, Constantinople and finally, İstanbul, it has been the capital of three Empires, each leaving their mark in the form of stunning palaces, castles, mosques, churches

Istanbul

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Istanbul

history & culture

3İstanbul’s famous skyline of turrets and minarets.

5Bosphorus Bridge linking Europe and Asia

and monuments. The legacy of its chequered past can be seen in every turn of the modern city.

Orientation & Where to Stay The layout of İstanbul can seem confusing at first. The Bosphorus or Boğaz divides the city into the European and Asian sides, linked by two magnificent bridges, spanning the continents, the first of which was opened in 1973 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Republic. Most visitors to the city, staying for a few days, will have little reason to visit the Asian side, except for as part of a Bosphorus tour, on a boat which zigzags from side to side, to take in the best of each.

The European side, however, is also divided in two by the Golden Horn or Haliç, which roughly divides the historic part of Old İstanbul, encompassing the areas of Sultanahmet and Laleli, from the modern city. It is crossed by a number of bridges, the most famous of which is the pontoon, the Galata Bridge. Most visitors on short city breaks stay in the old town as the vast majority of the sites which they will be visiting are in this area. İstanbul’s most famous sites – the Blue Mosque or Sultan Ahmet Cami, Aya Sofya (Haghia Sophia), Topkapı Sarayı (Palace) and the Grand Bazaar (Kapalı Çarşi) – are all within a 30 minute walk of each other. It is easy to get around on foot or by making use of the tram, which provides a did you know?

Florence Nightingale practised her nursing skills in a hospital in what was then Scutari and is now known as Üsküdar, a suburb of Istanbul

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3Detail of a mosaic from Haghia Sophia

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3Kızkulesi, known as Leander’s Tower or the Maiden’s Tower is now a restaurant

4The Blue Mosque

regular service on the pedestrianised main street.

In terms of accommodation, there are now a number of characterful boutique hotels in the area of Sultanahmet, many of which are restored Ottoman wooden mansions. These are ideal for those who really want to savour the authentic atmosphere of the Old Town. Those on a budget, may want to consider the more modern, and competitively priced hotels of the Laleli district, although this area is much busier.

Although it is convenient, the disadvantage of staying in the Old Town, is that, since it is not a residential area, you don’t really benefit from the ambience of the modern city of İstanbul, with its excellent restaurants, lively bars and cosmopolitan feel. Some of İstanbul’s finest, most luxurious hotels are located on the Bosphorus with stunning views over the straits, or in the modern business districts. There are also some historic establishments in the area known as Pera, which blossomed at the turn of the last century. The heart of modern İstanbul, is Taksim Square and the streets around. The advantage of staying here is that in the evenings you have a wealth of restaurants and relaxed bars within an easy walk of your hotel.

Wherever you choose to stay, it doesn’t take much to make the most of the city, and even three days will give you the opportunity to see the highlights. It is such a large city, however, that even if you visit time and again, you can still discover something new each time. It is easy to get around. There are a couple of handy trams – one in the old town, and the other in the main shopping street in Pera, İstiklal Caddesi.

Taxis are plentiful and relatively cheap and there

Turkish oldum Memnun English Pleased to meet you

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are also dolmuş and bus services for those who really want to explore. Most tour operators can arrange tours to see the main sights.

Sightseeing There is so much to see in İstanbul that it is impossible to cover everything. See the highlights section for those which you really should not miss, and go armed with a good guidebook to give you the lowdown and make sure that you get the most from your stay. See also page 30 for more information on the historic areas of the city.

Maritime Lines (TDİ) runs a good value public ferry service which leaves two or three times a day and does the full round trip as far as Anadolu Kavağı, the nearest village to the Black Sea on the Asian side, and back to Eminönü. It is a charming place, known for its fish restaurants, and the walk up to the ruined fortress overlooking the village, is well worth it for the stunning views. As you leave from Eminönü you can benefit from some beautiful views back towards the old town with its evocative skyline of turreted roofs and minarets. As you head towards the Black Sea you will pass the Dolmabahçe Palace, Beylerbeyi Palace and the 15th century fortresses built by Mehmet II, Rumeli Hisarı and Anadolu Hisarı. Also look out for the stunning wooden Ottoman mansions, many of which have been renovated and form some of the city’s most desirable residences.

Even if you don’t have time for a Bosphorus trip just take one of the distinctive city ferries for a quick trip from Eminönü to the Asian shores and back – to Üsküdar for example, just to admire the views of the old town.

The Princes Islands Those who are staying for a little longer in İstanbul, should really set aside a day to visit these charming islands in the Sea of Marmara, just off the coast of İstanbul. The picturesque scenery of wooded hills, charming beaches and authentic Ottoman mansions, combined with the tranquil atmosphere, make for a pleasant contrast to the city itself. Easily reached by ferry or hydrofoil, the ambience of the islands seems worlds away. Büyük Ada, or ‘Big’ island is the most popular with visitors. No cars are allowed but you can take a trip in a horse and carriage to visit the Monastery of St. George.

Beaches

The Bosphorus Some of İstanbul’s finest vistas are to be seen from the Bosphorus. If you have time it is well worth spending at least half a day viewing the sights and savouring the atmosphere. You can take a guided tour on a small boat, or Turkish

İstanbul itself does not have beaches, although some people do swim from the Princes Islands.

If you are staying for longer and want a real resort experience, however, it is better to take a bus to Şile on the Black Sea Coast and spend a couple of days in this delightful resort with its vast golden sandy beach and relaxed atmosphere.

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should take a trip to the area of Ortaköy, just under the first Bosphorus Bridge to visit the atmospheric Sunday market which takes place on the seafront.

Eating out and Entertainment Nightlife in İstanbul is an unique mix – you can find the latest clubs, which are some of the best in Europe or a café with cushions on the floor, where you can smoke a hookah pipe or nargile.

Wherever you choose to eat, whether you want a quick snack in the midst of sightseeing or a romantic dinner for two you are likely to find delicious food made from fresh ingredients, and can expect good value for money. If you want traditional street entertainers and musicians head to the area of Kumkapı near the Sea of Marmara, in the old town, famous for its fish, or the Flower Passage Çiçek Pasaji off İstiklal Caddesi. You can find excellent restaurants with views and many in historic buildings, as well as some very fashionable restaurants serving international cuisine. İstanbul is famous for its fish and seafood so you should try to eat fish at least once during your stay. There are some excellent fish restaurants along the Bosphorus.

Shopping İstanbul is a great place to shop. Whatever you want to buy, you can find the whole range – from souvenirs in the Grand Bazaar to designer labels in exclusive malls. The same rules apply as in the rest of Turkey ie fixed prices in ‘normal’ shops and bartering in and around the bazaars.

Shopping in the Grand Bazaar, Kapalı Çarşi is an unique experience. Although some find the atmosphere overwhelming, if you get into the spirit of it, it is fun. The salesmen’s banter is lighthearted and they are experts at guessing nationalities from a distance and choosing their language accordingly. Some of the lines are sure to bring a smile to your face even if you are not interested in buying. Feel free to browse – the shops selling similar wares tend to be grouped together, which makes it easier to see what’s on offer before committing yourself. It is usual to be offered a glass of apple tea, elma çayı, to ease the bargaining process. The best advice is simply to decide how much you want to pay for something, start the haggling a bit lower and then move up to your original price. You will soon get an idea of prices if you ask around.

Bir bira lütfen A beer please

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The Bazaar has thousands of shops, together with cafes, banks, a post office, police station and even a mosque – in fact a self-contained community. They sell everything here from cheap textiles to fine gold jewellery. Leather goods are excellent value as are ceramics, silver and, of course, carpets. It is worth a wander around the İç Bedesten, the oldest part of the Bazaar at its very centre, where they sell an eclectic range of antiques and bricabrac.

The Spice Bazaar, known in Turkish as the Mısır Çarşi or ‘Egyptian Bazaar’ is also well worth visiting for dried fruit and nuts, spices, including saffron, Turkish delight and cotton goods. You can even find stalls where they will custom-make a perfume for you. If you have time, the walk between the Spice Bazaar and the Grand Bazaar is interesting. To keep your bearings, just head uphill through the maze of streets where street vendors sell their wares at rock bottom prices.

Those who are more interested in looking at the other end of the scale, should head to the area of Nişantaşı for designer shops, the modern mall of Akmerkez or İstiklal Caddesi.

If you are in İstanbul over the weekend you

For an idea of where to go and what to do there are two English language publications, Time Out Istanbul, (www.timeout.com/travel/ istanbul) and The Guide Istanbul (www.theguideturkey.com/istanbul/) which are available in hotels and shops locally.

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3(top left) shopping in the Grand Bazaar 3(left) a sea-front bar in Ortaköy 5(main) Yerebatan Sarniç, the cisterns of the Byzantine city

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CAPPADOCIA

highlights For beauty: Make sure you visit some of the rock

churches with their stunning frescoes. Those in the Göreme Open Air Museum are particularly impressive.

For atmosphere: Visit the most impressive

of the underground cities at Derinkuyu.

To get away from the crowds: Enjoy the fascinating sights of the relatively undiscovered Soğanlı Valley.

For history: Visit Hattuşaş – the site of the capital

of the Hittite Empire is one of the most important in Anatolia. The temples and carvings are extremely impressive. For further information see page 30.

For romance: Take a balloon trip to watch the sun rise over

the eerie landscapes of fairy chimneys and other-worldly rock formations and really appreciate the scale of the site.

For shopping: Buy some of the local distinctive red clay pottery from Avanos.

For local flavour: Sample the local wine, made from the grapes which have been grown in the fertile volcanic soil for centuries.

For trekking: Allow a full day to trek through the spectacular unspoilt scenery of the Ihlara Valley following the course of the Melendiz Stream through this beautiful gorge.

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The region known as Cappadocia includes the centres of Ürgüp, Göreme, Avanos, Üçhisar, Derinkuyu, Kaymaklı and Ihlara. It is a stunning area of other-worldly rock formations, subterranean churches and underground dwellings, the scale of which is over-whelming. For background on the area see page 30 The area is also famous for its carpet-weaving, wine and the distinctive red pottery of the Avanos area.

Cappadocia was a refuge for the early Christians, who escaped persecution by living and worshipping underground. There are an estimated 3000 rock churches in this region, not all of which are open to the public, the existence of which was discovered by chance in 1907 by a French Jesuit scholar, who was travelling through the area.

Some of the most impressive of the churches are located in the Göreme Open Air Museum, which, for the most part, date from the 9th-11th centuries and have stunning wall paintings. You shouldn’t miss the

Cappadocia

3The area around Nevşehir is characterised

Located to the west of Niğde, is the stunning Ihlara Vadisi, a gorge which is 10 kms long and some 80 metres wide. Popular for trekking, about 12 of its 60 churches are open to the public including the impressive Eğritas Church.

There are hundreds of underground cities in the regions. Two of the most impressive are Kaymaklı, which has 8 levels, and Derinkuyu, which reaches down to 55 metres. They were used by the Christians fleeing persecution in the 7th century, who created a self-sufficient environment underground including bedrooms, kitchens and storage rooms.

To get away from the crowds visit the picturesque Soğanlı, Valley, with its many houses, tombs and churches, displaying excellent examples of Byzantine painting. More of the intriguing rock formations can be seen in the Devrent Valley and the Çatalkaya area.

Karanlık ‘Dark’Church, the Elmalı ‘Apple’ Church; the Yılanlı ‘Snake ‘Church with its paintings of St. George killing the dragon and the Tokalı ‘Buckle’ Church.

The Kılıçlar Vadisi also forms part of this vast site, which takes its name ‘Valley of the Swords’ from its pointed rock formations.

The village of Göreme itself is at the heart of the area’s tourist industry, and many of its villagers still live in cave dwellings, some of which have been converted into pensions. Surrounding the area are the amazing rock formations known evocatively as Peri Bacaları or ‘Fairy Chimneys’.

3The best way to view the landscape is from a hot air balloon.

did you know?

The Christian Nicean Creed was formulated at the First Ecumenical Council which was held in Iznik (Nicea).

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For panoramic views over the scenery of the Göreme Valley, visit the citadel of Üçhisar, the huge rock tower, which is the highest point in the area. Üçhisar and Ürgüp are two of the most popular places to stay in the area, where in recent years, a number of chic boutique hotels have opened in the old buildings and rock dwellings.

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by its strange rock formations.

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THE BLACK SEA REGION

highlights

For architecture: Visit Safranbolu to see the beautifully

preserved wooden Ottoman mansions, and public buildings, which are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and were the blueprint for the architecture which spread throughout the Ottoman Empire. See page 32 for more information.

For dramatic beauty: Take a trip to Sümela Monastery, the stunning 14th century monastery, which perches dramatically on a sheer cliff face and is one of Turkey’s most impressive sights.

For thrills: Enjoy white-water rafting on the rapids of the

fast-flowing Çoruh River. See page 48 for more information.

For an active holiday: Stay in Kartalkaya, one of Turkey’s

premier ski resorts. See page 42 for more information.

For natural beauty: Enjoy the stunning scenery of the mountain plateaux of Ayder – a great spot for trekking and enjoying nature.

For local flavour: The speciality of the region is hamsi (anchovy) and the locals cook it in over forty different ways, including with rice and in börek (with filo pastry) and they even use it to make a traditional dessert.

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The Black Sea coast is the greenest and wettest of Turkey’s regions.

Lush meadows lie on high mountain plateaux and dramatic forested peaks fall away to the sea. It is at the heart of Turkey’s agriculture, with tea plantations, abundant crops of fruit and nuts and even tobacco growing here. Fishing is also important to the region, and the anchovy forms an important part of its unique cuisine. This is a vast region with much to explore both on the coast and inland. In addition to its unique history, its unspoilt nature and mountainous terrain have made it popular for trekking and it also attracts those who want to discover a more traditional way of life.

Amasra is one of the highlights of the western Black Sea coast. It is a sleepy, picturesque town , its charming harbour retaining the remnants of its past glory – the ruins of a Roman bridge, and the remains of two 4th century fortresses. A stay here can easily be combined with a visit to Safranbolu, one of the highlights of the area (see page 32) Continuing

The Black Sea Region

mansions of Safranbolu

Probably the major attraction of the region, situated just 46 kms south of Trabzon is the 14th century Sümela Monastery. It perches dramatically on a sheer rock face, 270 metres above a deep gorge. Its walls are painted with brilliant frescoes.

along the coast to the east, it is wise to make a stop in Kastamonu to visit its Seljuk and Ottoman monuments before heading out to the spectacular Ilgaz National Park, where you can see bears, foxes and deer. Also in the area is one of the largest caves in Turkey the Ilgarini Cave, where you can descend some 250 metres.

Trabzon, once the medieval Empire of Trebizond, is the best base for a tour of the eastern Black Sea coast. It is a modern cosmopolitan city, the centre of trade with the ex Soviet states.

One of its highlights is the Church of the Divine Wisdom, Aya Sofya, now a museum, which was built between 1238 and 1263.

Its walls display brightly coloured frescoes depicting themes from the Bible. Get away from the hustle and bustle with a visit to Atatürk’s villa, set in beautiful gardens above the town.

To the south east of Trabzon is the beautiful alpine lake of Uzungöl, ‘Long Lake’, surrounded by lush meadows and stunning mountain scenery, where you can sample the delicious local trout.

Those who want to experience the beautiful nature of this region at its best should head for the Ayder Plateau and the Kaçkar Mountains to the east. The rushing rivers, the Fırtına and the Çoruh are ideal for canoeing and rafting, and the mountains themselves are popular with climbers and trekkers.

did you know?

The word ‘yoghurt’ comes from Turkish, which is appropriate since the Turks eat it with everything.

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3The traditional Ottoman

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3The stunning Sümela Monastery near Trabzon

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EASTERN ANATOLIA

highlights For atmosphere: Watch the sun rise or set over

the iconic disembodied stone heads and temple terraces erected by King Antiochus I on Nemrut Dağı. See page 32 for more information.

To get away from the crowds: Visit İshak Paşa Sarayı, the magnificent Ottoman Palace in Doğubeyazit, in a dramatic, isolated setting. See page 15 for more information.

For culture: Visit the Great Mosque and Hospital of Divriği and marvel at its vivid, intricate carving. See page 30 for more information.

For stunning views: Mount Ararat known locally as Ağrı

Dağı is Turkey’s highest peak, which rises dramatically from the plains, and is said to have been the resting place for Noah’s Ark. See page 38 for more information.

For a spiritual experience: Visit Halil Rahman

Mosque in Şanlı Urfa with its pool of sacred carp.

For natural beauty: Visit Lake Van and enjoy the stunning scenery.

For an active holiday: Stay in Palandöken, one of Turkey’s premier ski resorts, situated just 30 minutes from the ancient town of Erzurum. See page 42 for more information.

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Şanlı Urfa was known by the Ottomans as Urfa, and was awarded its prefix, ‘glorious’ for its role in resisting the French in the 1920’s. It is one of the most ancient areas of settlement, and is believed by some to be the ancient city of Ur. Today, it proudly displays the remnants of the many civilisations which have made it their home. One of its most impressive sights is the Halil Rahman Mosque with its sacred pools of carp. You can also see the cave where Abraham is believed to have been born. Both lie at the foot of a hill crowned by an ancient citadel.

Just 48 kms to the south is the ancient city of Harran, mentioned in the Bible, with its beehive shaped dwellings, which were probably designed in the 3rd BC. It is believed to be the oldest settlement, which has been continuously occupied, in the world.

Diyarbakır, on the banks of the Tigris, is renowned for its black basalt walls, decorated with inscriptions and bas reliefs, which surround the

Eastern Turkey

5Dwellings in Harran 3Carving on Great

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3The Sacred Lake at Halil Rahman Mosque, Şanlı Urfa

Mosque of Divriği

old city and have 16 towers and 5 gates. Diyarbakır’s Ulu Cami or ‘Great Mosque’ is one of the holiest sites in the Islamic world.

Lake Van is Turkey’s largest lake, and is the biggest sodium carbonate lake in the world. It is also one of the world’s highest, at 1,650 metres above sea level. The water is so alkaline that the villagers can wash their clothes in it without using soap. It is also very salty. The scenery here is stunning – surrounded by snow-capped peaks, the highest of which, Süphan Dağı is over 4000 metres.

There are four islands in the lake, the largest of which is Akdamar Island, which can be reached by boat. It is home to the church of the Holy Cross, built by the 10th century Armenian King, Gagik,

Erzurum was located on one of the main caravan routes between Europe and India, and was, therefore, fought over by many different civilisations.

Most that remains of interest today is from the Seljuk era including the religious seminaries, the Çifte Minareli Medrese with its twin minarets, and the Yakut Medrese. Also impressive is the Byzantine citadel, from which there are excellent views over the city.

43 kms from Kars is the ruined city of Ani . In order to visit it you need to obtain permission from the tourist office in Kars, Known to the Turks as Ocaklı, it was founded by the Armenians in the 4th century BC, and reached the height of its prosperity under King Gagik I. Its city walls, Medieval churches and grand cathedral are magnificent.

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one of the biggest attractions in the area.

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