Moscow and Orthodoxy by Bookletia

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Moscow and Orthodoxy

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Religion and Culture When browsing through the World Heritage List compiled by UNESCO, quite many churches, cathedrals, monasteries and other structures dedicated to public worship may be seen there. This is certainly not a coincidence. Religion was always playing an important role in the life of any society, so, generally, the face of the cities was greatly defined on the faith predominant among its inhabitants.

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Moscow, founded in 1147, was from the start a Russian Orthodox settlement, because by that time, Christianity has become state religion in the Kievan Rus. Of course, back then all structures were made of wood, and looked quite differently. None of them remained, unfortunately. You may, however, get some idea about them thanks to the open-air Museum of Wooden Architecture existing on the grounds of the Kolomenskoe Preserve Museum (Metro stations Kolomenskaya and Kashirskaya). The earliest remaining stone structures

in Moscow are from the 15th century. It is quite unfortunate that the older Church of the Savior on the Pinery erected in 1328-1330 was destroyed in 1933. Russian Orthodox churches were never built at random: their site was usually of highest elevation, and the motive for starting a new church was quite often a certain special sign, a wonder or some very special event in the spiritual life of the people. Some churches were built as a fulfillment of a promise: they were erected in order to thank the Lord for a victory

in a battle or in a war. Such a church was at the same time a memorial dedicated to those who fell in battle, for their eternal commemoration. There existed, though, â&#x20AC;&#x153;peacefulâ&#x20AC;? motives

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for building a church: for example, the birth of one’s legitimate heir. The rich built house churches for their own family and the closest kin, while those of lesser means built their churches by a common effort. Thus every artisan or trade quarter had, as a rule, its own church. Cathedrals are of special importance among the Russian Orthodox structures. A cathedral could only be the main church of a monastery or a

and that can only be done if a permission was issued by the priest. The altar is dedicated to some saint or to a holy day—this is how the name is given to a church. For example, the Church of the Ascension of our Lord Jesus Christ may be called, in a shorter version of its name, Ascension Church. In order to avoid some confusion, the church name may include the place name where it is standing: e.g., the Epiphany Cathedral at Yelokhovo or the Church of the Beheading of St. John the Baptist at Dyakovo. Sometimes there may be several altars in a church, they are in the aisles, and each has its own consecration. Also, there may be several churches united in one structure: for example, such is the case for the cathedral of the Protection of Most Holy Theotokos on the Moat, which is more commonly known as cathedral of St. Vasily the Blessed (or St. Basil’s cathedral). Russian church architecture has several traditional forms for church construction: a cross, a circle, an octogram (eight-pointed star), and a ship. Mixed types exist as well. Each of these shapes has its own deeper symbolic meaning. The cupolas of Russian Orthodox churches have mostly the shape of a helmet or that of an onion. Helmet-shaped cupolas remind of the host of heaven and of the spiritual battle which Russian Orthodox Church keeps being engaged in against the forces of evil and darkness. Onionshaped cupolas symbolize the flame of a candle—reminding us of the words of Jesus: “Ye are the light of the world.” (Matthew, 5-14)

city; also, those churches that had a dominating position in previous times could become a cathedral. When we admire architectural forms of different churches, we may think them to be very varied, but they are in fact all built in accordance with the same general concept. A church is divided into the main hall and the altar, and they are divided by a semblance of a wall, which is called the iconostasis. Only men may enter the altar space

The color of the dome also has a special meaning: it signifies the consecration of a church. Gold is the symbol of celestial glory. Golden domes were topping the main churches as well as those dedicated to Jesus Christ and to the twelve feasts of the Christian year. Blue domes with stars top the churches dedicated to the Theotokos, because the star is a reminder of Jesus’ birth from Virgin Mary. Trinity churches had green domes because green is the color of the Holy Spirit. Churches dedicated to saints are also topped by green or silver domes. The number of domes on the church is also symbolic. One dome symbolizes One God; three domes relate to the Holy Trinity; five domes symbolize Jesus Christ and the four evangelists; seven domes speak of the seven sacraments; nine domes remind of the number of heavenly hosts; and thirteen domes—of Jesus and the twelve apostles. The number of domes may reach thirty three—up to the number of years of the Savior’s earthly life. Churches were usually built in keeping with an architectural style most popular at a certain point of time, and most renowned architects were invited to design a new church. This is why we still admire the churches erected hundreds of years ago.

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Most guidebooks start their description of Moscow with Kremlin. And this is not a coincidence: Moscow itself was born here, with most heroic events of its history taking place inside those walls. Moscow Kremlin is the most ancient part of Moscow, its main social and political, spiritual and religious, historical and artistic complex; it is also the official residence of the President of the Russian Federation. At first, the Kremlin was a fortification around a small settlement established on the Borovitsky Hill, a cape at the confluence of the Neglinnaya River and Moskva (Moscow) River. The oldest Russian Orthodox cathedral was also built in the Kremlin, in the 12th century—it was the Church of the Nativity of St. John the Baptist on the Pinery (later, after the end of the 16th century, it was also called Church of St. Varus, the Holy Martyr). At a later date, it was built in stone, and further on, rebuilt several times. In 1841, Emperor Nicholas I of Russia ordered the ramshackle structure of this church to be demolished, and after that, the

first Moscow church remained only in memoirs, and only old pictures and architectural plans may tell us now what it looked like and where it was located. Let us, however, get back to Moscow of the 12th century. At the time, against the background of other, ancient Russian cities, Moscow was a peripheral small town with no political influence—it was, after all, just a domain of the Great Princedom of Vladimir. In early 13th century, however, Moscow, for the first time, becomes the center of the princedom. The turning point in the history of the Moscow Princedom came in 1263 when in accordance with the will of the late Alexander Nevsky, who was the Grand Prince of Vladimir, Moscow was bequeathed to his youngest son Daniel Aleksandrovich (1261 – 1303). Subsequently, he became the founder of a dynasty of Moscow princes who ruled first the Moscow Princedom and eventually all of the Rus until the end of the 16th century. During Daniel’s rule, Moscow’s possessions were enlarged: the Kolomna and

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Mozhaisk Princedoms were added to it. He also founded one of the first monasteries in Moscow. It is the still existing St. Daniel Monastery on the right bank of the Moskva River, called the Danilov Monastery today (Danilovsky Val, 22, Metro station Tulskaya). Daniel’s sons, Princes Yuri Danilovich (1281 – 1325) and Ivan I Danilovich called Kalita, or Moneybag (around 1283 – around 1340), kept increasing Moscow’s influence. Ivan Kalita gave Moscow a different status: during his rule, the head of the Russian Orthodox Church, Metropolitan Peter, moved from Vladimir to Moscow. The foundation of the Vysokopetrovsky Monastery in Moscow is ascribed to Peter; it still exists today (Petrovka Str., 28, Metro stations Chekhovskaya and Trubnaya). During the rule of Ivan Kalita, the image of the town changed a lot. The

Kremlin walls were all made of oak trees now, stone churches replaced the wooden ones, and the spatial composition of the Cathedral Square was established. Dmitry Donskoy (1350 – 1389), a grandson of Ivan Kalita, played a very special role in the history of Moscow and Russia as a whole: he won a decisive victory in the Battle of Kulikovo (September 8, 1380) which defined the future of the Russian state. During the rule of Dmitry Donskoy, wooden walls of the Kremlin were replaced by walls and towers constructed of white limestone from local quarries, and the Kremin’s territory was also enlarged towards the Moskva River. From then on, the chronicles started referring to the city as “Moscow the Whitestoned”. New cathedrals were built, and a new convent, the

Voznesensky (Ascension) nunnery, was founded. Unfortunately, time did not spare any of these structures, so none of them can be seen today. Profound construction work was being conducted in the Kremlin during the rule of Ivan III The Great (1440 – 1505) who was the Grand Prince of Moscow from 1462 to 1505. Greatgrandson of Dmitry Donskoy, Ivan III began calling himself “Sovereign of All Rus” after his successful annexation of a number of ancient Russian cities. All buildings in the Kremlin, including the churches, were designed and constructed by Italian masters under the guidance of Pietro Antonio Solari. They chose fired body bricks as their main construction material. Many of these buildings still remain today. First of all, it is one of the oldest buildings in Moscow,

А.М.Васнецов. Московский Кремль при Иване III. 1921.

1 the Uspensky (Dormition) Cathedral built in 1475 – 1479. For hundreds of years, it was the main Russian Orthodox cathedral of the whole country: here, Russian monarchs were crowned and the highest Russian Orthodox clergy was exalted. 2 The Rizopolozheniya Church (Church of the Deposition of the Robe) built by masters from Pskov in

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1484-1485 was a private chapel of Russian Orthodox metropolitans and patriarchs. 3 The Blagovestchensky (Annunciation) Cathedral built in 1489 was a private chapel of Russian Tsars. 4 The Archangelsky (Archengel) Cathedral was built in 1505-1508 at the site of an old church founded by Ivan Kalita in 1333. This cathedral incorporates the royal necropolis with reliquaries of the rulers of the Moscow state as well as their closest relatives. 5 In 1505-1508, the bell tower of Ivan the Great was erected, and it looked somewhat different at the time—not as tall as today. One more tier was added to it only one hundred years later, during the rule of Boris Godunov. The old belfry and the Filaret Tower were blown up during the War of 1812, but restored in 1814-1815. These are the only buildings that we can see today, although other significant structures existed here as well. 6 The Palace of the Facets built in 1487-1491 is a monument of civic architecture of the time: it contains what used to be the main banquet reception hall of the Muscovite Tsars. 7 Of the later structures, Patriarch’s Chambers with the Church of the Twelve Apostles remained until today. They were built by Russian masters for Patriarch Nikon in 1653-1655, on the site of some older structures. A museum exhibition is displayed here today, and an old iconostasis is put up in the private chapel of the Twelve Apostles where an icon exhibition is also located.

The importance of the Kremlin for the cultural and spiritual life of the country did not diminish even after the capital was transferred from Moscow to Saint Petersburg. Russian monarchs kept erecting new buildings here and rebuilding the existing ones while Kremlin’s main cathedrals retained their stately appearance remaining a model of architectural perfection. After the October Revolution of 1917, the Kremlin’s monasteries were, unfortunately, phased out, so that all of their structures were razed to the ground and many old churches were destroyed. Luckily, the general outline of the Cathedral Square remained intact, and this helps us take a better view upon the history of our country. At present, all these churches operate as museums. A visitor to the Kremlin may walk around its grounds on his own, but it is also possible to use the services of a guide.

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The most beautiful temples of Moscow 8

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A lot has been said and written about the beauty of Moscow churches. However, the story of many a Moscow temple may be told following the same basic outline. Built in the 17th or 18th century of the wooden one previously standing here. Suffered extensive damage from either a fire or a war; more often than not this is related to the War of 1812 and to the big Moscow fire which coincided with that time. Restored through parishioners’ donations. During the Soviet period, shut down, its building used to host some offices or installations. In the 1990s, returned to believers, renovated or restored; nowadays, used for religious sermons. Seemingly, just a few words; yet so many completely different stories, fates and historical periods hiding behind them. Let us take a short trip to the most beautiful churches of Moscow. Please keep in mind that some of the

churches we are about to visit are museums, thus, purchasing a ticket may be required to enter their premises. If you wish to visit a regular church providing religious services, there is no need to pay any entry fee.

St. Basil’s Cathedral The best-known church in Moscow — 1 the cathedral of the Protection of Most Holy Theotokos on the Moat, is located at the Red Square, next to the Kremlin wall. It is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. This cathedral is jointly used by the State Historical Museum and the Russian Orthodox Church, and thus religious services are conducted there from time to time. Its history goes back to the time when Ivan the Terrible was the supreme ruler of Russia. The cathedral was built in 1555-1561, to commemorate the successful termination of the

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Inside the church, certain rules must be observed, especially during worship. It is forbidden to make noise, talk loudly, look closely at the worshippers or take their pictures, and enter the altar part of the church. The dress code must also be observed: your dress should not e too revealing, and it may not have anti-Christian symbols in its design and pattern. It is not permitted to smoke on the premises, drink alcohol or visit the church in an inebriated condition; no swearing or use of foul language is tolerated either. Rules for believers are even stricter: upon entering the church, men take off their hats while women, on the contrary, cover their heads. It is generally considered appropriate for a woman to enter the church in a skirt of a sufficient length, avoiding pants or slacks, and without makeup. If you are not a believer, do not cross yourself, bow, or light candles “just to be polite”. Those around you understand very well that their church may be a historical landmark, so the best a church visitor can do is not interfere with other people’s prayer.

Kazan military campaigns. Its smaller churches were consecrated to honor the saints at whose days important victories were achieved, and the main church, which is located in the center of the complex and is taller than the rest, was dedicated to the holy day of the Protection of Most Holy Theotokos—that was the day when Kazan was taken. The church complex consists of nine churches erected on the same foundation. In 1558, one more church was added to them: it was built over the burial place of the famous Moscow “holy fool of Christ”, Vasily (Basil) the Blessed, formally canonized at that time. Since the cathedral of the Protection of Most Holy Theotokos had a special status, parishioners came for worship to the smaller St. Basil’s church. This name was referred to very often and eventually it replaced the title of the whole church complex. The cathedral of the Protection of Most Holy Theotokos on the Moat is not just one of the most beautiful buildings in Moscow, it is also a most interesting museum with a very rich collection. Museum guides will help you learn more about its exhibits.

Address: Red Square, 2 Metro stations: Okhotnyi Ryad, Teatralnaya, Ploshchad Revolyutsii Opening hours: Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., ticket office is open until 5 p.m.; closed on Tuesdays; first Monday of each month is cleaning day.

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Cathedral of Christ the Savior 2 The Cathedral of Christ the Savior (Cathedral of the Nativity of Christ) is the largest church in Russia. Its current structure was erected in 1995-2000, on the site of the original building which was blown up in 1931. It is a faithful reconstruction of the initial cathedral. The history of this memorial church commemorating rescue from an enemy started right after Napoleon’s army was driven out of Russia, with Tsar Alexander I signing a special manifest ordering its construction. In 1814, a contest was held to choose the best design, and the winner was Karl Vitberg, an architect of Swedish descent, who, on occasion of winning the contest, converted to Orthodoxy and took the name of Alexander, to honor his godfather, Tsar Alexander I. Vitberg’s architectural design was stunningly beautiful, and three times larger than

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current cathedral structure. Vorobyevy Gory (Sparrow Hills) were selected as the site to erect the cathedral. Unfortunately, it proved impossible to complete the project as intended: at the time, no technology existed which would stabilize the ground sufficiently for such a heavy structure. In 1831, the construction was assigned to Konstantin Andreyevich Thon. The cathedral of his design was erected on the shore of the Moskva River and consecrated in 1883. Its construction took almost fifty years to complete, and in about fifty more years, in 1931, the cathedral was demolished. There was a plan to erect in its place the legendary Palace of the Soviets, a gigantic 100-floor-high building with a huge Lenin statue at the top. However, this project never came into existence, and the excavated pit that was prepared for the construction was eventually used for

a large swimming pool. When a decision was made to reconstruct the cathedral at its original site, the existing space beneath the ground level was used for creating one more church called the Transfiguration church of the Cathedral of Christ the Savior reminding us of the Alekseyevsky Monastery that existed earlier at this site. Inside the building, there are passages from one church to the other; religious services are conducted in both. Highly venerated Russian Orthodox relics are kept here: a part of Jesus Christ’s vestment, the Nail from the Holy Cross and parts of the Russian Orthodox saints’ reliquiae. For those interested, guided tours are offered, and the observation spaces provide a great view on downtown Moscow.

Address: Volkhonka Str., 15 Metro station: Kropotkinskaya Openning hours: the museum is open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., including weekends and holidays. Guided tours to the Cathedral of Christ the Savior, the museum and observation points may be arranged in advance. Tour office is located at the entrance to the Savior Transfiguration Church, at the Soimonovsky Proyezd.

Krutitsy Metochion 3 The Krutitsy Metochion with its unique complex of buildings stands out among Moscow churches. It is rightly classified as an outstanding phenomenon of the Old Russian architecture. It is located on the left bank of the Moskva River, in the south-east of Russia’s capital. Krutitsy was the name of an ancient natural boundary that were the steep hills of the left shore of the Moskva River, thus

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giving the name for the place, since Krutitsy comes from krutoi, i.e., steep. This area is unique in that three of the oldest of Moscow’s monasteries are located here, quite close to one another: the Novospassky Monastery, the Simonov Monastery and the Krutitsy Metochion. The Krutisty Metochion is perhaps the oldest of the Moscow metochion sites. Once you arrive there, you are immediately transported from the busy 21st to the unhurried 17th century, being surrounded by ancient architectural monuments. Among them are the Dormition Cathedral at Krutitsy built in 1700, the Metropolitan’s Chamber (1655-1670), the Krutitsy Little Palace and the Metropolitan’s Gallery which connects the Chamber and the cathedral. Of special interest to the fans of relics of the past may be

glazed tiles covering the Little Palace and the Holy Gate. Address: Krutitskaya Str., 13 Metro stations: Proletarskaya, Krestyanskaya Zastava Opening hours: daily from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Churches at Kolomenskoye The Kolomenskoye Museum Reserve encompasses the Kolomenskoye Village—this royal estate used to be the residency of Moscow Princes and the Russian Tsars—as well as the territory of the Dyakovo Village. The whole area has become the most visited tourist attraction today, but Russian Orthodox churches located here are, undoubtedly, of special interest for the guests of Moscow.

4 Church of the Ascension is the best known church at Kolomenskoye. It is a monument of Russian architecture and was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Its architecture immediately attracts one’s attention by its unusual design, its pull towards the sky, its feeling of flight. The church was erected in 1528-1532, during the reign of Vassily III, father of Ivan the Terrible. The most striking feature of this church is that its top is made in the shape of a tent so that it looks like a tall pyramid. The tent shape is very well known in the architecture of wooden churches, but it is only in Russia that the tent shape was used as a top element in churches built of stone. For comparison, take a look at the St. Basil’s Cathedral where the central church, the cathedral of the Protection of Most Holy Theotokos,

has a tent-shaped top as well. Today the Church of Ascension is not used for religious service, and its ground floor houses a museum. Address: Prospect Andropova, 39 Metro station: Kolomenskaya Opening hours: daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., excluding Mondays and the last Friday of each month.

The Church of the Ascension has a special status amongst Russian Orthodox believers, because the Great WonderWorking Icon of Our Sovereign Lady of Kazan was discovered at its ground floor. Today it is displayed in 5 the Church of our Lady of Kazan close by. Previously, the name of this church was extended by the special indication of its location (“at Sovereign’s Court”), because it was the house church of Russian Tsars, and a covered gallery

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connected it with the adjacent palace of Tsar Aleksey Mikhailovich Romanov. The church was built in the middle of the 17th century in the style of Russian uzorochiye pattern. Address: Prospect Andropova, 39, Bldg. 9 Metro station: Kolomenskaya

One more church built of stone exists on the premises of the Museum Reserve: 6 the Church of the Beheading of St. John the Baptist at Dyakovo. It was erected when Ivan the Terrible was the ruler of Russia.

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Address: 1st Dyakovo Gorodistche Str., 39, Bldg. 7 Metro stations: Kashirskaya, Kolomenskaya Opening hours: daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

After visiting these churches at Kolomenskoye, you can trace the transformation of construction ideas from the times of Vassily III when the Church of the Ascension was erected, via the multi-domed architecture of Ivan the Terribleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s period, on to the Russian uzorochie style of the 17th century heralding the end of the Troubles and the beginning of the Romanov rule. After visiting these churches at Kolomenskoye, you can trace the transformation of construction ideas from the times of Vassily III when the Church of the Ascension was erected, via the multi-domed architecture of Ivan the Terribleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s period, on to the Russian

uzorochie style of the 17th century heralding the end of the Troubles and the beginning of the Romanov rule. 7 The open-air Museum of Wooden Architecture existing on the premises of the Kolomenskoye deserves a special mentioning. Authentic wooden structures from all corners of Russia are displayed here today, brought together to one territory. Among them is the Church of St. George the Victorious (16th century) and a tower of the Nikolo-Korelsky Monastery (late 17th century).

Russian uzorochie style We would like to mention some more churches built using the Russian uzorochie style. First of all, it is 8 the Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos at Putinki (Metro stations Tchekhovskaya, Pushkinskaya, and Tverskaya, Malaya Dmitrovka Str., 4), which was built next to the En-route Ambassadors Court in the middle of the 17th century. The tent-shaped tops play a rather decorative role here, they are quite small and very elegant. 9 The Church of the Holy LifeGiving Trinity at Nikitniki (Metro station Kitai-Gorod, Nikitnikov side str., 3) belongs to the same period: the middle of the 17th century. It differs from the preceding church by that it is not all whitewashed, but has a creative color scheme: its white carved elements look more threedimensional set against the principal red color.

To decorate 10 the Church of St. Nicholas the Miracle-Worker at Khamovniki (Metro station Park Kultury, Lva Tolstogo Str., 2) built in 1679-1682, three colors were used: the principal color is white and decorative elements are painted in red and green. There are more churches around Moscow having distinct features of the Russian uzorochie style, so now you can easily spot them.

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The Baroque One more architectural style that made its striking appearance in Moscow’s churches is the Baroque. Its main variety (called the Moscow Baroque, or the Naryshkin Style) is represented in such architectural monuments as, e.g., 11 the Church of the Intercession at Fili (Metro station Fili, Novozavodskaya Str., 6), which was built at the end of the 17th century. 12 The Church of Our Lady of the Sign at Sheremetev Court (Metro stations Biblioteka imeni Lenina, Aleksandrovsky Sad, Romanov side str., 2, Bldg. 8) is very much like the preceding church, and it was erected at about the same period of time.These churches are drastically different from the structures built in the style of the Russian uzorochie. Such an abrupt change in their appearance was related to the ban issued by Patriarch Nikon

on building churches with tent-shaped tops. This is why layered, or galleried, churches became widespread after the middle of the 17th century. It may be an interesting task to compare two variations of the Baroque style: the Moscow Baroque and the Petrine Baroque. Many building in Saint Petersburg belong to the latter. However, there are some in Moscow, too, for example, the so-called 13 Menshikov Tower. Also known as the Church of Archangel Gabriel at Chistye Prudy (Clean Ponds) (Metro stations Chistye Prudy, Turgenevskaya, Sretenski Bulvar, Arkhangelsky side Str., 15a), it was built at the beginning of the 18th century. One more variation of the Russian Baroque is called Elisabethan Baroque, after the name of the Russian Empress Elizaveta Petrovna, the daughter of Peter I. A striking example of this

style is the 14 St. Clement’s Church (Metro stations Novokuznetskaya, Tretyakovskaya, Klimentovsky side Str., 7/26), a church dedicated to a Roman Pope and Martyr, St. Clement I, and built in the second half of the 18th century. As all other structures built in this style, this church building is quite imposing, but does not look heavy.

Classicism and Empire style By 1760s, the Baroque begins to be gradually replaced by Classicism. Its flowering is usually associated with the rule of Catherine II. Most of all, this style is evident in Saint Petersburg and its suburbs, but Moscow was not left out either. The Classicist style of the late 18th century is represented by buildings having, as a rule, rounded elements, porticos,

columns and half-columns. A great example of this style is the 15 the Church of the Icon of Our Lady, the Joy of All Who Sorrow (Savior’s Transfiguration) (Metro station Tretyakovskaya, Novokuznetskaya, Bolshaya Ordynka Str., 20): famous architects like V. I. Bazhenov and, later on, O. I. Bové took part in its design and construction. After the Patriotic War of 1812, most buildings in Moscow, for both civic and religious use, were built in the Empire style. An example of this style is, e.g., 16 the Church of the Our Lord’s Ascension at Storozhi, located close to the Nikitskiye Vorota [Gate] (it is also called “the Greater Ascension”). Built in early 19th century, it is a favorite with Muscovites. A. S. Pushkin and N. N. Goncharova were wed at this church.

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Icons in Moscow’s Museums

Many painters addressed Christian themes in their work: some created paintings that addressed religious topics while others participated in mural decorations of the churches. Icon painters, however, always occupied a special niche. Russian Orthodox tradition endorses the representation of particular images of persons and events of sacred or church history mostly on icons, that is, creating images painted on wood; frescoes and mosaics were sometimes done as well, while sculptures are quite rare. Russian Orthodox icons still are a subject of unabated interest, so Moscow visitors are quite often eager to see these ancient images, many of which are exhibited in museums today. Let us name some of the most eminent museums of Moscow having extensive icon collections.

State Tretyakov Gallery

A visit to this museum is certainly a part of the “compulsory program” for each guest of Russia’s capital since Tretyakov Gallery rooms hold a vast collection of Russian paintings. A special department is dedicated to icons. Frescoes and icons by unknown artists are displayed in its rooms, as well as those from the hand of renowned icon painters: Andrey Rublev, Dionisy, Simon Ushakov, and Theophanes the Greek. The earliest icons date back to the 12th century. The gallery also has paintings with religious themes. These are works by V. M. Vasnetsov, V. V. Nesterov, I. N. Kramskoy, N. N. Ge as well as the most famous painting by A. A. Ivanov “The Apparition of Christ to the People (The Apparition of the Messiah)”, which the artist had been working on for 20 years. It is exhibited in a separate room where studies for this work are also shown, along with other paintings by this outstanding Russian master.

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Andrei Rublev Central Museum of Ancient Russian Culture and Art 2

A special branch of this gallery is located at the Church of St. Nicholas in Tolmachi that shares the entrance with the museum. A part of the icon collection is kept there: in this way, Russian Orthodox relics stay in a church while being preserved in accordance with museum standards. The most venerated relic in this church

is the miracle-working icon The Theotokos of Vladimir (Our Lady of Vladimir). Address: Lavrushinsky Side Str., 10 Subway stations: Tretyakovskaya, Polyanka Opening hours: daily from 10 a.m. to 7.30 p.m., ticket office closes at 6.30 p.m., Monday is day off.

This museum islocated on the premises of the Andronikov Monastery of the Saviour where Andrey Rublev used to work andlive. The oldest church in Moscow is standing here: it is the Savior Cathedral. The exhibit shows authentic masterpieces of icon painting. The museum also displays various examples of church sculpture, iconostasis, icon-cases, and holy doors. Ancient books and many other items are part of the museumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collections. Address: Andronievskaya Square, 10 Metro stations: Kurskaya, Ploshchad Ilyicha Opening hours: daily from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., ticket office closes at 5.15 p.m.; days off are Wednesdays and the last Friday of the month

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The Icon House Museum

This museum was opened recently, in 2009. Presently, its collection includes over 2.5 thousand items of Christian art. Many of them are rare and even unique. The Icon House Museum does not simply display its artifacts; it provides an interesting and detailed insight in the spiritual life of the Russian people. The museum holds topical exhibitions on regular basis, it organizes lectures, workshops, concerts of religious and classical music, topical and club events.

Address: Spiridonovka Str., 4, Bldg. 1 Metro stations: Chekhovskaya, Tverskaya, and Pushkinskaya Opening hours: daily from noon to 10 p.m., Monday is the day off.

Russian Icon Museum

This private museum exists since 2006. An extensive collection is shown here displaying works created at artistic centers of the Eastern Christian art. This large private collection provides an opportunity for seeing exhibits which pertain to a very broad period of time, from the Antiquity up to the 20th century. Address: Goncharnaya Str., Bldg. 1 Metro stations: Taganskaya, Marksistskaya Opening hours: daily from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., Tuesday and Wednesday are days off.

Many of the Moscow museums have icons in their collections as well: for example, the State Historical Museum, the museums of the Moscow Kremlin, the Kolomenskoe Preserve Museum, and others.

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In the Russian Orthodox Church tradition, relics and sanctuaries are the points where the spiritual and the material sides are united. The Lord transfers His grace (celestial energy) to humans via relics, so that wonders may then occur. But humans must first display their belief in God (in the help coming from God): for “according to your faith be it unto you” (Math. 9-29). It is very important to understand that turning to relics does not constitute a magic ritual which will guarantee the fulfillment of what one may pray for. This is a part of the spiritual path for someone who genuinely believes in God. There are many Russian Orthodox sanctuaries and relics in Moscow, and many people from all corners of Russia and from other countries come to honor them. Beside those relics that were already mentioned in this book (the ones in the Cathedral of Christ the Savior, in the Church of St. Nicholas in Tolmachi, in the Church of Our Lady of Kazan at Kolomenskoye), there are some more places in Moscow which are especially venerated by pilgrims.

Relics and sanctuaries

The Epiphany Cathedral at Yelokhovo 1

This cathedral, a major architectural masterpiece, was built in 1835-1845 in the Empire style at the site of an earlier church which existed here after the 17th century. During the Soviet period, the cathedral was close to being shut down, but managed to stay open, so that the relics from

discontinued and demolished churches could be stored here. Presently, the Epiphany Cathedral at Yelokhovo is hosting the WonderWorking icon of Our Lady of Kazan previously housed at the Kazan Cathedral on the Red Square, as well as the relics of St. Alexiy, Metropolitan of Moscow, who lived in the 14th century. His relics were conserved at the Chudov Monastery which he had founded. When in 1930 a decision was met to demolish the monastery, the famous restorer P. D. Baranovsky, who saved many landmarks of church architecture for the posterity, could transfer the reliquary of St. Alexiy to the Dormition Cathedral inside the Kremlin. Also, hosted at the Epiphany Cathedral are the miracle-working image of St. Nicholas and the hallowed image of the Theotokos “Seeking of the Lost”. The Epiphany Cathedral at Yelokhovo

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is also known for the baptism of A. S. Pushkin, but the existing building was not yet built at that time: in its place, the preceding, older church was standing.

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Address: Spartakovskaya Str., 15 Metro station: Baumanskaya Opening hours: daily from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Church of the Prophet Elijah Obydenny 2

To pronounce the word “obydenny” correctly the stress must fall on the third syllable, because this old Russian word means “built in one day”. That refers, of course, not to the church which stands today in the street that bears its name, but to a preceding, wooden church built probably in the first half of the 16th century. The Church of Prophet Elijah played its part in various events of Russian history. There is evidence that Dmitry Pozharsky was praying at this church on the day of the decisive battle with the Poles in 1612. There are icons at this church painted by Simon Ushakov, the famous Russian icon painter of the 17th century.

This place is connected to the names of many eminent people. For example, P. M. Tretyakov, an entrepreneur and patron of arts, founder of the Tretyakov Gallery, made a sizeable donation for the reconstruction of this church and the erection of the belfry. This church was not shut down during the Soviet period. The miracle-working icon of Theotokos “Unexpected Joy” is conserved here, just as are the icon of Our Lady of Kazan and the Holy Image of the Savior Not Made By Hands painted by Simon Ushakov in 1675, the Icon of Our Lady of Vladimir painted by Afanasy Ryazantsev in 1691, and others. Repositories of holy gifts are also kept here, and in one of them, a part of the Cincture of the Virgin Mary is encased.

The Church of the Consecration of the Our Lord the Saviour Resurrection Church at Uspensky Vrazhek [Dormition Ravine] 3

This is one more church which was never shut down during the Soviet period. This made it possible to preserve the icon of the Theotokos “Seeking of the Lost” transferred here from another church which was demolished. The church building erected in the first half of the 17th century is an architectural landmark. Old interior decorations, probably created at the end of the 19th century, are of great historical value. Address: Bryusov Side Str., 15/2 Metro station: Okhotnyi Ryad Opening hours;

Address: Tserkovnya Gorka Str., 26a Metro station: VDNKh Opening hours: daily from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.

The Church of St. Nicholas at Kuznetskaya Sloboda (Blacksmiths’ Settlement)

The existing building of the church was built in the first half of the 19th century in the Empire style. The Miracle-Working Icon of the Theotokos “Assuage My Sorrows” is kept here (it was painted in the 18th century and transferred to this church from another St. Nicholas church). There are other relics here due to the fact that this church was never shut down during the Soviet period. They are the Iveron Theotokos, the venerated icon of the Theotokos “Seeking of the Lost”, the templar icon of St. Nicholas with his hagiography painted in the first half of the 17th century, a venerated icon by Andrey Rublev, and the icon called “St. Aleksiy Lays the Cross onto Reverend Sergius”.

Address: Vishnyakovsky Side Str., 15 Metro stations: Paveletskaya, Novokuznetskaya Opening hours: daily from 8.00 to 20.00

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The Pokrovsky Nunnery

A monastery for men was founded at this site in 1635 by Mikhail Feodorovich, the first Tsar of the Romanov dynasty. At the end of the 18th century, new churches were built here to replace dilapidated old walls. They were the Church of the Protection

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of Most Holy Theotokos built in early 19th century and the Cathedral of the Consecration of the Church of the Resurrection built in the 18th century and reconstructed in the middle of the 19th century. These churches remain intact until this day. Throughout the Soviet period the monastery remained closed, reopening in 1994, this time as a nunnery. Muscovites know this monastery very well, because relics of the blessed elder nun Matrona of Moscow are conserved there.

It is simply impossible to list here all Russian Orthodox relics and sanctuaries existing in Moscow. Tourist agencies and pilgrim assistance services can help you visit the churches or monasteries for which you may have a special interest. If you are interested in the relics as historical and cultural objects, you may contact tourist agencies which provide relevant guided tours. To help the believers who would like to pray at Moscowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s holy places, special pilgrim assistance services exist. They are listed at the end of this book.

Address: Taganskaya Str., 58 Metro stations: Marksistskaya, Krestyanskaya Zastava, Proletarskaya Opening hours: daily from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m., Sundays from 6 a.m. to 8 p.m.

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Monasteries

To take a tour of the monastery, you must comply with certain rules of behavior.

At the moment, in Moscow there are 13 Orthodox monasteries. Many are based for along time, the oldest of the existing - Danilov Monastery - built in the XIII century. Some buildings remained suppressed during the Soviet era mansions, and some of them were not only closed, but also completely destroyed. For example, the Miracles and Ascension Monastery in the Kremlin.

1. Requirements for the appearance attendees are stricter than in the ordinary churches: to stay in the monastery in trousers and bare-headed not. But if you did not include dress code in advance to solve the problem is easy: at the entrance you can always take a special apron skirt that will fit women of all. There you can get and a scarf to cover her head.

2. Since the monastery are not only believers who came to pray, but the monks wholive here permanently, we should understand that the noise and loud noises can stop them. 3. The monastery is strictly forbidden to smoke, drink alcohol, be in a state of intoxication. 4. Free entrance to the monastery. If in a museum, his visits are usually paid. In addition, in some monasteries excursions are sold detailed guidebooks. All

of this can be found at the entrance to the monastery. 5. Be careful, photography and filming is not permitted everywhere need to buy a ticket somewhere, somewhere you need special permission to film with professional equipment, etc. So before you start shooting, ask attendants these details. But the main rule applies everywhere: you can not shoot the monks, ministers, praying people.

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St. Andronik monastery It was founded around 1360 and is one of the oldest in Moscow. Abolished in 1918. The main building of the monastery is the Savior Cathedral, built in the years 1420-1425. According to experts, this cathedral - the oldest temple of the capital. Its majestic building brings us closer to ancient history, impressive for its austere beauty and harmony. The former monastery are other architectural monuments: the rectory quarters (about 1690), the Church of the Archangel Michael (16911739 years). With Andronicus Monastery is closely connected with the name of the outstanding Russian icon painter Andrei Rublev, which is well-known all over the world. Even people far removed from religion have always recognized the undeniable artistic value of his work,

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and for painters, he was a role model. Andrei Rublevlived in the monastery, and was buried here. Now his name is valid on the monastery of the Central Museum of Ancient Russian Culture and Art. Address: Andronievskaya Sq. 10. Metro: «Lenin Square», «Roman», «Kursk». Opening hours: weekdays 18.00. Museums: The Central Museum of Ancient Russian Culture and Art. Andrei Rublev.

Novodevichy monastery This monastery is without exaggeration the most picturesque monastery in Moscow, one of its symbols. In 2004, the architectural ensemble was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Novodevichy Convent was founded in 1524 on a vow given by Vasily III (father of Ivan the Terrible). The place was not chosen by chance - here in 1456 sent to Smolensk ancient relic - the Smolensk Icon of the Mother of God Hodegetria (The Guide). The main church of the monastery - the Smolensk Cathedral, built in the XVI century, the architecture of it echoes the Assumption Cathedral of the Kremlin. Another attraction - shestiyarusnaya steeple, built in Moscow baroque style. There is on site, and other architectural monuments. It is widely known and Cemetery and

Necropolis of the monastery. Buried here are prominent figures of science, culture, art, politics, militaryleaders. And most famous tombs created by Russian sculptor. Address: Novodevichy proezd 1 Metro: «Sports» Open daily from 8 am to 20 pm, Sunday from 6:30 Museums: Museum «Novodevichy Convent»

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Danilov Monastery The oldest of the surviving and operating in Moscow monastery was founded in the XIII century by Prince Daniel of Moscow (1261-1303) - son of Alexander Nevsky. Daniil of Moscow is considered the founder of the dynasty of princes and kings. In assessing his personality historians agree that it was a peaceloving man, who in an age of constant internecine war is bloodless solution of most conflicts. This approach, he gained alot of respect contemporaries and considerably strengthened the influence of Moscow. Before his death, he became a monk, and in 1791 he was canonized as a saint. In Daniel’s Monastery is the only Russian Orthodox church, consecrated in honor of the Holy Fathers of the Seven Ecumenical Councils,leading its history from the XVI century. The current building was builtlater - in the

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XVII century - and repeatedly rebuilt. Significant architectural monument is the Trinity Cathedral, built in the years 1833-1838 by the architect allegedly Ossip Bove. Great public interest was history Danilov Monastery bells. Before the October Revolution, thanks to a good selection of famous monastery ensemble extraordinarily beautiful bells. In Soviet times, the bell saved from destruction fellow at Harvard University, Thomas Whittemore, offered the American industrialist Charles Richard Crane to buy them from the Soviet government. So Danilov bells were at Harvard. Through the efforts of many people in 2008, a unique ensemble of bells returned to Moscow at the Danilov Monastery.

Location: st. Danilov shaft, 22 Metro: «Tula» Hours: 6:00 to 21:00

Novospassky Monastery Founded in 1490, but its history dates back to an earlier time, because his name - Savior on New - said that he was moved to a newlocation. Former Monastery of the Savior was in the Kremlin. As and many Moscow monastery Novospassky monastery played an important defensive role. This is well illustrated by its massive walls and towers, built in the XVII century. Date from this time, and some other buildings of the monastery, for example, Transfiguration Cathedral, built in the years 1645-1647, and painted in the 80 years of the XVII century. Markedly different from them in its architectural style bell tower to the church of St. Sergius, builtlater - in the XVIII century. Novospassky monastery is also known as the tomb of the royal clan ancestors Zakharins-Romanovs were buried here,

and representatives of other noble families. This extraordinary beautiful quiet secluded spot on the banks of the Moscow River to keep the ancient history, bringing us back to a bygone era.

Address: Peasant Sq. 10 Metro: «Proletarian», «peasant outpost» Hours: 7:00 to 20:00

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Vysokopetrovsky monastery The monastery is known to the XIV century and the oldest surviving building in its territory belongs to the beginning of the XVI century. Founding of the monastery is connected with the name of St. Peter, the first Metropolitan of Kiev, being constantly in Moscow, thus anticipating its subsequent rise. Entrance to the northern defense ring of monasteries, to defend Moscow from attacking enemies. In the Soviet period was closed, but the underground monastic community has continued to exist for some time. Now returned to the faithful, and the monasticlife was revived in 2009. On the territory there are monuments of architecture from various periods, but particularlylike to dwell on the unique in its architecture the Cathe-

dral of St. Peter the Metropolitan of Moscow and All Russia. This temple was built in the years 1514-1517 and is the oldest building of the monastery. Location: st. Petrovka 28/2 Metro: «Chekhov», «Tverskaya» «Pushkinskaya», «Pipe» Hours: 7:00 to 20:00

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Rural routes When discussing Russian Orthodox destinations around Moscow, some routes in the Moscow Region should not be omitted. Here are but a few places in the Greater Moscow Area that are of interest for tourists as well as for pilgrims.

New Jerusalem Making a trip to Jerusalem is certainly much easier nowadays than it used to be a few hundred years ago, but such a trip is still fraught with certain difficulties. Visiting the New Jerusalem Monastery, however, is possible at any time, and this placeleaves a very deep impression

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on the visitor. On one hand, you will delight in getting in touch with nature, and on the other hand, you will admire the man-made creations embodying the amazing idea of fully replicating holy relics of real Jerusalem.

Address: Sovietskaya Str., 2, Istra, Istrinsky Rayon, Moscow Region From Moscow by the road - 39 km. North-west, Volokolamsk Highway. Opening hours: guided tours are provided in the monastery between 10.30 a.m. and 4 p.m.

The Savvino-Storozhevsky Monastery This monastery was founded at the end of the 14th century by a monk whose name was Savva, also known as Storozhevsky or Zvenigorodsky; he was venerated as a wonderworker. As many other monasteries in Moscow or in the Greater Moscow area, this sanctuary played not only spiritual but a defensive role as well. This site was always favored by Russian Orthodox believers. All kinds of celebrities, including Russian Tsars and their spouses, visited this monastery. During the Soviet period, it was closed, but nowadays it is reopened, and since 1998, the relics of St. Savva are being kept at this monastery again.

Address: Zvenigorod, Moscow Region From Moscow by the road - 47 km. North-west, Novorizhskoe Highway. Opening hours: The monastery is open to the public from 6.00 am before the end of the evening service.

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Trinity St. Sergius Lavra The monastery was founded in 1337 by St. Sergius of Radonezh, and today, this is one of thelargest Russian Orthodox monasteries. In the past, it also had defensive functions: it was the seat of the Second Citizen Militia during the campaign for freeing Moscow in 1612. This place is also known for providing

refuge for young Peter I when Tsarevna Sophia sent the Streltsy (the Shooters) to intercept him. During the Soviet period, the monastery was shut down, but renewed its operations in 1946. The architectural ensemble of the Trinity St. Sergius Lavra is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Address: Holy Trinity Lavra of St. Sergius, Sergiev Posad, Moscow Region From Moscow by the road - 54 km. North-east direction, Yaroslavl highway. Operating hours: the Lavra is open to visitors from 5 a.m. to 9 p.m. During Great Feasts and days to commemorate the venerable Sergius (July 5/18 and September 25/October 8), the Lavra is open around the clock.

You maylook up detailed schedules for tours around Greater Moscow Area at various pilgrim sites: for example, at the Radonezh Pilgrim Service (Prechistenka Str. 28; phones +7(495) 937-57-91, +7(495) 225-42-68, www.radonez.ru )