Travel News Namibia 5/12

VOLUME 20 No 5 | SUMMER 2012/13

THE GREAT A SANDWICH

COASTAL MIGRATION

FEAST

FEED YOUR NEED

FOR SPEED

SUMMER flower show

N$35.00 incl. VAT R35.00 incl. VAT

WHAT TO DO IN SUMMER SKYDIVING, MARINE CRUISES, AQUARIUM

ART SHOP PING RECIP ES

is published by Venture Publications in Windhoek, Namibia www.travelnewsnamibia.com

Text Contributors Ron Swilling, Annabelle Venter, Ralf Kröling

4 Herzinger Crescent, Klein Windhoek PO Box 21593, Windhoek, Namibia

cover photograph Natasha Martin

Managing Editor Riéth van Schalkwyk tnn@iafrica.com.na

Photographers Paul van Schalkwyk, Marita van Rooyen, Ron Swilling, Annabelle Venter, Carmen Begley, Christie Keulder, Pompie Burger, Flip Stander, Helge Denker, Eric Bellande, Ed Jenkins, Justin Ennis

Sales Manager Ute Caspary 264811497880@mtcmobile.com.na Text Editor Amy Schoeman

Printers John Meinert Printing, Windhoek

Technical Director Naude Muller Art Director Audrey Botha Production & Layout Carmen Begley Customer Service & Account Subscriptions Bonn Nortjé Online Editor Jana-Mari Smith jansmithventure@gmail.com News desk Marita van Rooyen

Travel News Namibia is published quarterly, distributed worldwide and produced solely on Apple Macintosh equipment. The editorial content of TNN is contributed by freelance writers and journalists. It is the sole responsibility of the publisher and no part of the magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

ABOUT VENTURE

VENTURE PUBLICATIONS Venture Publications has not only been a pioneer promoting Namibia locally and abroad for the past two decades, but is also the leader in Namibian information dissemination for the tourism industry. Venture is focused on distributing accurate, credible, up-to-date and regular tourism-related information.

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VOLUME 20 No 5 | SUMMER 2012/13

THE GREAT A SANDWICH

COASTAL MIGRATION

FEAST

FEED YOUR NEED

FOR SPEED

SUMMER flower show

N$35.00 incl. VAT R35.00 incl. VAT

WHAT TO DO IN SUMMER SKYDIVING, MARINE CRUISES, AQUARIUM

ART SHOP PING RECIPE S

Travel News Namibia is published in seven different editions per year. These include four English language editions, one German, one Italian and one French annually. Travel News Namibia is for sale in Namibia and South Africa.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

summertime

in namibia

Explore the coast for activities all the way

I

t’s summer in our part of the world. We wake up to a hot blazing sun every day. Not that we don’t have sunny days in winter, but then the day temperatures are mild and we don’t have thunder showers. You are aware that we have almost 360 days of sunshine a year, aren’t you? So sun is the one pleasure we can offer unconditionally.

I returned to Namibia recently and couldn’t help but smile contentedly when I left the arrival hall at Hosea Kutako International Airport at seven in the evening. The sun was still shining – albeit at an angle – but with that wonderful golden-yellow hue. Outside on the benches on the lawn (where there was not a single ‘stay off the grass’ notice) on a blanket having a last picnic, or stretched out on low concrete garden walls enjoying one last sundowner, were European passengers soaking up the last of the African sun before taking off to colder climes. Their shoes were off, they were using their backpacks as pillows, and their eyes were closed, facing the setting sun, which is exactly how we coached them! “Never waste a sunset or the magical rise of the full moon in Namibia.”

Of course, returning to a white Christmas has its own charm and attraction, if that’s what you’re used to, but somehow I always feel sorry for these sun-starved visitors, all tanned and relaxed after a Namibian holiday, queuing for the overnight flight back to their real world. Fortunately for us Africans, we can have it all – a cool, hot summer at the Atlantic coast, which is what this edition is all about. Having it all in summer.

And make no mistake; a Namibian beach holiday entails much more than just sun and sea. Actually, the Namib coast is the one place in Namibia where we can never be sure that the sun will shine. But then again, at any given time, the desert sun is only ten minutes away.

In this edition of Travel News Namibia we have put together over a hundred activities to enjoy at the coast. Marita even suggests some pit stops along the way. And just so you don’t feel neglected if you’re not going to the coast, Jana contributed an article on the remarkable northern town of Tsumeb.

The Desert Dash and Speed Challenge are meant to entice you to get fit for next year. And if all of this is still not enough to keep you busy until autumn when our next edition will be on the shelves, click on www.travelnewsnamibia.com and start surfing.

Riéth van Schalkwyk

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SUMMER 2012/3

5

CONTENTS

24

summer 2012/13 GENERAL INFO 13 FAST FACTS All you need to know about Namibia 74 SUMMER WEATHER ‘It never rains, but it pours’

features

48

14 The great coastal migration Namibians trek to the coast over the summer holidays 16 pitstops Best leg-stretchers along the B2 24 A sandwich feast A trip to Sandwich Harbour 28 Walvis Bay Waterfront Alcove of charm 32 Living Desert Snake Park

The biggest little snake park in Namibia

36 namibia’s seals This is how sustainable use really works 46 desert dash An extraordinary mountain-biking challenge 48 Lüderitz Speed Challenge Feed your need for speed 52 Major milestones Of the industry 64 Namibia’s giant mushroom The inimitable omajova

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70 namibia’s lilies Summer flower show 76 tsumeb A hidden jewel close to Etosha

CONTENTS

58

REGULAR FEATURES 8 WHAT’S NEW(S)? New developments 18 THINGS TO DO In Swakopmund in summer 44 hang out at the coast Entertainment and cultural news 58 SHOPPING To stock up on Namibiana 66 RECIPES FROM NAMIBIA Omajovas 68 FOODIES Enjoying Namibian fare

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7

THE AQUARIUM IS BACK and so is its turtle!

WHAT’s NEW(S)?

Opuwo Country Hotel

THE END OF AN ERA for Namibia Country Lodges At the end of August, Opuwo Country Hotel (OCH) was handed over to its new owners, Wouter and Lientjie Smith, marking the end of an era for the group of lodges and hotels previously known as Namibia Country Lodges. According to Wouter, life at OCH will continue as normal. “We are happy and excited about what the future holds for the lodge. Bless Johann’s soul for creating such a marvellous structure in this part of the world.”

The passing away of owner Johann de Beer in June also gave momentum to the sale of entities within the group.

Opuwo Country Hotel: +264 (0)64 46 1566 Walter and Simone Swart took over Solitaire Country Lodge in June. Subsequent to the takeover, they commenced with a revamp of note at this 25-room lodge in the Naukluft area on the edge of the Namib. Amongst others, they erected a thatched-roof lapa in front of the bakery and appointed Sakkie van Lill, well-known mechanic from Maltahöhe, as

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Solitaire Country Lodge

Namushasha Country Lodge

resident vehicle surgeon. Solitaire now boasts a fully equipped workshop, tow-in service, and ‘fuel is always available’. More upgrades to the lodge, including the rooms and restaurant, are planned for the near future.

Solitaire Country Lodge: +264 (0)62 68 2033 Namushasha Country Lodge on the banks of the Kwando River in the far north-east has been sold to the well-known Gondwana Collection. Gondwana has hereby extended its reach through the entire Namibia, from Aus in the deep south to Namushasha in the very north.

Namushasha Country Lodge: +264 (0)61 23 0066 • Negotiations about the crown in the Namibia Country Lodges (NCL) group, Twyfelfontein Country Lodge, are ongoing.

• NCL continues to operate Tsumkwe Country Lodge, (which is up for sale) in Bushmanland (north-east), as well as the Auob Country Lodge near Gochas in the south.

• Further information on the status of NCL lodges can be obtained from Willem de Wet, director of Namibia Country Lodges. +264 (0)81 129 1061

turtle justin ennis elton mugomo marita van rooyen fish eagle paul van schalkwyk

Compiled Marita van Rooyen

Back again at the National Marine Aquarium is its charismatic sea turtle – a familiar resident to visitors of the aquarium before it was closed for renovation –enchanting visitors as it glides through the water with grace and beauty once more. Yes, the aquarium has been reopened after being closed since 2010.

Renovations and additions include a new ‘touch’ tank, improved lighting in the main container, a much-needed ‘chiller’ system, and interactive desks and touch-screen computers for children. Perhaps the most obvious change for returning guests is the new Ray Tank, replacing the Tide Pool Exhibit just inside the entrance.

And the aquarium preaches a very important message: Everyone benefits from the oceans, not just those who live near them. Most of Earth’s oxygen is derived from marine plants, and ocean currents regulate the world’s climate. So go get marine-educated!

WHAT’S NEW(S)?

ELTON’S AFRICA now reflects Namibia too Elton Mugomo is a street artist with a difference. A skill that he started developing in his childhood – when he carved stones in rural Zimbabwe to attract the girls’ attention – has since developed into the art of etching. Elton creates prints featuring landscapes, nature, tribes and images expressing how life in Namibia has inspired him over the past 10 years. “My works tell the real story of what life is like in Africa.”

Elton often does workshops with groups of women from Swakopmund’s DRC community, training them in the art of etching.

Find Elton at the Art Africa artists-in-action walkway in Tobias Hainyeko Street, Swakopmund.

Cell 081 202 3222

LAGOONS AND CHANNELS and abundant bird-watching It’s eco-friendly, private, exclusive and bustling with large herds of elephant and buffalo. This is Camp Chobe, situated on the Namibian side of the Chobe River. Born from the desire to offer an exciting new experience to tourists, owner Johan Liebenberg used his expertise to develop an intimate refuge, designed with privacy in mind. Only 3 km north-east of the Ngoma border post, the camp consists of 12 chalets, a campsite, and facilities for self-caterers.

Explore the area by boat, on foot, or by bike; you might even be one of the lucky few to spot a puku or Chobe bushbuck! And for the food fanatics: “Tease and tantalise your taste buds by watching the chefs at work in our open, interactive kitchen, and savour the wholesome flavours of meals served in the dining room with its sweeping views, or while sitting in a warm cluster around a crackling blaze in the open-fire pit.”

Now doesn’t this sound like the perfect summer holiday? Johan also owns Camp Kwando on the banks of the Kwando River.

Scan the QR code on your left with your smartphone, or visit www.campchobe.com

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SUMMER 2012/3

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THE REVIVAL of a golden oldie It took eight years to build, and a mere three years to fall into decay. The hard work, innovative German-colonial construction style, and careful attention to creative detail had almost gone to waste… Fortunately two young entrepreneurs saw its potential beauty and recognised the pulse of the warm heart deep inside the rock.

And now the Busch Hotel is once again alive with activity and the drone of happy voices as travellers share stories from their journeys. Pitch your tent and dream under the stars while treating your stomach to Namibian barbecued meat and Bushman fondues, or book a self-catering chalet and sit down for a more formal meal in the restaurant. The Busch Hotel is situated on the B2 road between Okahandja and Karibib – an easy 80-minute drive from Windhoek and only 500 metres from the tarred road. www.buschhotel.com

THE ULTIMATE desert experience The magnificence of the Namib Desert can now be experienced from a newly opened lodge in Swakopmund.

Situated in a prime position above the ephemeral Swakop River, Desert Breeze has spectacular views over the vast and sensuous apricot-coloured dune sea. Sister lodge to the attractive Stiltz, built amongst the reeds and tamarisk trees at the edge of town, Desert Breeze opened its doors in October, increasing the number of ‘the most exciting beds to be found in Swakopmund’ to 62. It reflects creator Danie Holloway’s tradition of offering attractive and unusual lodges in magnificent settings – perfect for visitors wanting to treat themselves to something extraordinary. Slabs of rough rock and large sculptures add power and a raw energy to the lodge setting.

This is your opportunity to treat yourself to the grandeur of the Namib – the desert, cloaked in gold. www.desertbreezeswakopmund.com

A new card is now making Namibia accessible to all. The Go2Namibia card will set you back a mere N$100 for the whole family (which includes your loving partner and all your children under 18) and allows the card-bearing family discounts of up to 40% at selected accommodation establishments and activity operators throughout the country. The initiative was launched in collaboration with five local companies: Exclusive Reservations and Marketing, Journeys Namibia, Leading Lodges of Africa, Finesse Hospitality Support Services and Levani Namibia Marketing, and represents over 50 lodges in Namibia. To encourage travel amongst locals, the cards are available to Namibian and SADC residents. www.go-2-namibia.com

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desert breeze ron swilling

GO2NAMIBIA there’s no longer an excuse not to

WHAT’S NEW(S)?

MOWANI MOUNTAIN CAMP a stylish new look for the queen’s lair The first words you’ll see on the Mowani Mountain Camp website are: “I could see how the Twyfelfontein Conservancy may have wanted to remain inaccessible through all of time; it has been protecting the southern-most roaming grounds of the black rhino and elusive desert-adapted elephant.” But… where there’s something worth seeing, tourists will inevitably go, and that’s how this sophisticated camp came into being in 2000.

Now, 12 years down the line, the camp has been completely upgraded. Tents were broken down and rebuilt into rooms with dramatically domed thatched roofs and spectacular decks, an enlargement of over 30%; room interiors have been invigorated with new splashes of style and washed-wood floors; guest areas have been renewed and enhanced; and, best of all, the entire staff has been re-energised! Built on wooden platforms among granite outcrops and offering dreamy views over the Abu Huab River Valley, the camp is fit for a queen of the bluest blood. A guest from the US commented: “I was impressed with the towering hills of rosy-red granite boulders… they were like giant house-sized jellybeans balanced in precarious and gargantuan piles, with occasional ghostly-white shepherd’s trees (Boscia albitrunca) growing out of cracks. It’s a playground for trolls and giants.” This is Damaraland at its ultimate, refurbished best. www.mowani.com

ETENDEKA MOUNTAIN CAMP turns over a new leaf With a strong emphasis on nature, Etendeka Mountain Camp – situated in the foothills of the Grootberg massif in northern Damaraland – celebrated its new eco-friendly look in April 2012.

The main area, which was artistically reconstructed by building hero Trevor Nott, now hosts a variety of local materials, with rustic metals and wood adding to its regional flair. The tents, all still fresh and new, received additional shading for afternoon siestas and soft upgrades to the bathrooms. The focus at Etendeka is on offering guests a unique wilderness experience in the remote and dramatic environment of Damaraland while hosting them in eco-friendly accommodation. At Etendeka guests are personally guided by Dennis Liebenberg and his assistant manager Ivan #Narib, both of whose main aims are to share their passion for the area. One of Namibia’s greenest camps, Etendeka was awarded five flowers by the Eco Awards Namibia. Here you are reminded that we’re all guests of Mother Nature!

Take note: Etendeka Mountain Camp is closed from the beginning of January until the beginning of February for its annual ‘resting period’.

Scan the QR code on your left with your smartphone or visit www.etendeka-namibia.com

ADVERTORIAL

Namibia Tourism Board D

espite continuing economic challenges, the Travel and Tourism sector continued to grow over the past year.

The Namibia Tourism Board (NTB) has proof that the future is bright. We look back at a successful 2012.

Statistics from January until November: • A total of 99 accommodation establishments applied for registration in 2012. The majority of the applications came from the Erongo Region, followed by the Khomas Region. Most of the applications were from self-catering establishments, followed by guesthouses, and bed & breakfast establishments. An average of nine establishments applied for registration per month.

• A total of 70 regulated establishments (which includes activity operators, air charters, booking agents, conference-centre operators, foreign tour operators, shuttle and transport services operators, tour facilitators, tour & safari operators, trophy-hunting operators, and vehicle-rental operators) applied for registration at the NTB. An average of six establishments applied for registration per month, of which the highest number of applicants came from the Khomas Region, followed by the Erongo Region. The majority of applicants were shuttle and transport services operators and booking agents.

• The Namibia Tourism Board developed and drafted regulations for the registration and control of tourist volunteer service providers; registration control of guides in Namibia.

• Grading regulations were gazetted in August 2012 but will unfortunately be repealed due to technical errors.

• During the year many stand-alone conference facilities registered with the NTB. The Head of Industry Services is encouraging those not registered to do so urgently.

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Feel free to contact the Namibia Tourism Board for industry-related information, including quality assurance, establishment registrations, general queries and tourism updates.

Manfred Donovan !Gaeb Head: Industry Services Tel +264 (0)61 290 6008, Fax +264 (0)61 22 9416 Email: mgaeb@namibiatourism.com.na www.namibiatourism.com.na An exceptional accomplishment The Elephant Human Relations Association, one of the country’s foremost voluntourism companies, received the Virgin Holidays Responsible Tourism Award for the Best Volunteering Organisation. The awards celebrate and inspire change in the tourism industry.

Photo courtesy of: Paul van Schalkwyk

Fast facts on Namibia General Surface area: 824 268 km Capital: Windhoek Independence: 21 March 1990 Current president: Hifikepunye Pohamba Multiparty Parliament Democratic Constitution Division of power between executive, legislature and judiciary Secular state—freedom of religion (90% Christian) Freedom of the press/media 2

ENVIRONMENT Nature reserves: 15% of surface area Highest mountain: Brandberg Other prominent mountains: Spitzkoppe, Moltkeblick, Gamsberg Perennial rivers: Orange, Kunene, Okavango, Zambezi and Kwando/ Linyanti/Chobe Ephemeral rivers: Numerous, including Fish, Kuiseb, Swakop and Ugab

FLORA 14 vegetation zones 120 species of trees 200 endemic plant species 100 plus species of lichen Living fossil plant: Welwitschia mirabilis

ECONOMY Main sectors: Mining, Fishing, Tourism & Agriculture Biggest employer: Agriculture (46%) Fastest-growing sector: Tourism Mining: Diamonds, uranium, copper, lead, zinc, magnesium, cadmium, arsenic, pyrites, silver and gold, lithium minerals, dimension stones (granite, marble, blue sodalite) and many semiprecious stones

Physical Infrastructure

FOREIGN REPRESENTATION

Roads: 5 450 km tarred, 37 000 km gravel Harbours: Walvis Bay, Lüderitz Main Airports: Hosea Kutako International Airport, Eros Airport, 46 airstrips Rail network: 2 382 km narrow gauge 6.2 telephone lines per 100 inhabitants Direct-dialling facilities to 221 countries Mobile communication system: GSM Agreements with 117 countries/255 networks Postal Service: affiliated to the Universal Postal Union

More than 50 countries have Namibian consular or embassy representation in Windhoek.

For information, contact Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Information and Broadcasting—Tel (+264 61) 282 9111

Social infrastructure

Money matters

One medical doctor per 3 650 people Two privately run hospitals in Windhoek with intensive-care units Medical practitioners (world standard) 24-hour medical emergency services

Population 2.1 million Density: 2.2 per km2 240 000 inhabitants in Windhoek (15% of total) Official language: English 13 regions, 13 ethnic cultures 16 languages and dialects Adult literacy rate: 85% Population growth rate: 2.6% Schools: 1 450

Fauna Big game: Elephant, lion, rhino, buffalo, cheetah, leopard, giraffe 20 antelope species 240 mammal species (14 endemic) 250 reptile species 50 frog species 676 bird species Endemic birds including Herero Chat, Rockrunner, Damara Tern, Monteiro’s Hornbill

Tax and customs All goods and services are priced to include value-added tax of 15%. Visitors may reclaim VAT. Enquiries: Ministry of Finance— Tel (+264 61) 23 0773 in Windhoek

Currency: The Namibia dollar (N$) is fixed to and equals the SA rand. The South African rand is also legal tender.

Traveller’s cheques, foreign currency, International Visa, Master Card, American Express and Diners Club credit cards are accepted

Drinking water Most tap water is purified and safe to drink.

Visitors should exercise caution in rural areas

Transport Public transport is NOT available to all tourist destinations in Namibia.

There are bus services from Windhoek to Cape Town/Johannesburg/Vic Falls/ Swakopmund. Namibia’s main railway line runs from the South African border, connecting Windhoek to Swakopmund in the west and Tsumeb in the north.

There is an extensive network of international and regional flights from Windhoek. Domestic charters to all destinations.

www.namibiatourism.com.na

The great coastal migration Text Marita van Rooyen Photograph Paul van Schalkwyk

During the festive season, all roads lead to the coast – except those heading up north, needless to say!

F

rom Windhoek there are the gravel roads that traverse via the Khomas Hochland and the Gamsberg Pass; and for nature lovers, the somewhat longer and scenic route via the Spreetshoogte Pass. But the main road leading to the coast is the tarred B2.

And whether you start in Otavi or Koës, at the end of the day all roads lead through Okahandja, making it an ideal stopover to buy biltong and bites. The town hosts an eclectic bunch of northern artists working together under the Okahandja Woodcarvers banner, and presents you with the perfect opportunity to finalise your last-minute Christmas shopping!

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If you’re in a hurry to hit the beach and reunite with grandma, we recommend that you take the B2 – west of Okahandja – as soon as you’ve stocked up on meat and other supplies. Being recently upgraded, the road is as smooth as black silk and a great pleasure to drive. If you leave in the morning, you’ll be travelling westwards along a straight stretch of road with ample yellow-line space and the sun behind you.

With miscellaneous pit stops along the way, not to mention a plethora of picnic trees to pull under and have refreshments, the road offers a most pleasant migration westwards to the coolness of the coast.

namibia’s coast

About 30 km before you reach Karibib – where you must definitely stop for some marble magic – look out for the Karibib giraffe, which seems to be stuck on browsing a single bush bordering the road. Once in town, stop at the Henckert Tourist Centre on the left of the main road for souvenirs and a cup of coffee.

The town hosts an interesting array of forgotten-about historical buildings, such as the former Hotel Zum Grünen Kranz.

Then, just as you leave town, that big white mass you see on your right is the Karibib Marble Works, from where marble is exported to destinations as far away as China and Italy.

The next sun-baked town – 30 kilometres down the road – is Usakos. Nearby you’ll find the Trekkopje Battlefield, site of one of the most important battles fought during the 1915 campaign involving South African and German forces, and the Erongo Mountains, renowned for the rock art found in overhangs. The reputable historical locomotive is also still around, albeit moved some 200 metres north from its original position where it was misused as a buffer for run-away trucks.

If, however, road tripping is not your thing, just stick to the speed limit and you could be in Swakopmund in a short two and a half hours (from Okahandja). Drive safely! TNN

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SUMMER 2012/3

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along the b2 Text Marita van Rooyen

Okahandja: Get biltong!

We know when you reach Okahandja, you won’t have travelled much of the stretch to the coast, but there really is no excuse for not making a pit stop here, and while you’re at it, to stock up on biltong for the road. Known for hosting some of the best biltong producers in the country, there is quite a variety to choose from.

Option 1: Take the first turn-off into the garden town and pull over directly across the woodcarvers’ market. The Savannah Biltong shop is small, but clean and neat, and has a wide selection of meaty bites.

Option 2: Continue on the B2 a little longer and veer left at the second turn-off.

Here you’ll find Piet’s Biltong Shop, which quadruples as a biltong outlet, kiosk, butchery, and gift shop (although spread out between two units). What makes this such a great stop is the fact that you can also pick up some chops for the first night’s braai, and even a gift for your mother-in-law (which we know you’ve conveniently forgotten about!).

Option 3: Or, instead of taking the second turn-off, take a right into town, and continue until you reach the train tracks and the second woodcarvers’ outlet. Head right from here, into Voortrekker Road, until you see the Closwa Biltong shop on your left. This is the largest biltong manufacturer in the country, so it’s a top spot for you to pick up fresh beef and game-biltong products. Recently expanded and upgraded, the shop also hosts a deli and ‘Waterhole’ for enjoying biltong brötchens and fresh coffee.

Wilhelmstal Farm Stall: Fresh bread and apfelstrudel A proper farm stall – like those in the days of the early traveller – Wilhelmstal’s pride is its homemade biltong and droëwors.

But this is not where it ends. Sit down for the lunch of the day, such as goulash with fresh farm bread, or indulge in a slice of apfelstrudel or Sahnetorte, served with freshly brewed coffee.

First thing in the morning co-owner Urte Gebauer packs out the loaves of freshly baked bread and rusks that customers have ordered before hitting the road. Husband Ernst is in charge of

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the meat products, while the Gebauers buy fresh produce from as far afield as Outjo and Swakopmund. An eclectic array of chilli sauce, orange jelly, various jams, grapefruit syrup, pickled beetroot, olives and cheeses will greet you, so stock up on some picnic goodies and park yourself under a roadside tree for a spot of family time en route. Wilhelmstal also boasts the cleanest toilet facilities along the B2 and is a proud stockist of Travel News Namibia magazines.

biltong, wilhelmstal, crystal seller marita van rooyen namib oasis christie keulder crystal carmen begley

Best leg-stretchers

pit stops

Namib Oasis More biltong, and burgers!

Like all the other pit stops en route, the Namib Oasis Farm Stall and Deli is a place for biltong, as well as burgers, milkshakes and Coke floats. Formerly known as Namib Wüste, this farm stall has been upgraded by the new owners, Jan and Chantal Swartz, to include a proper play area for kids and a creative corner offering locally sourced items. While the waitresses

confirm that the burgers are still the most popular items on the menu, the spicy chicken livers come pretty close. Then there is the meal of the day, ranging from braised beef shin and grilled Portuguese chicken, to red-wine-peppered oxtail and grilled Eisbein. Namib Oasis is situated just outside Usakos, pretty much halfway between Windhoek and Swakop.

Ûiba-Ôas Crystal Market For your shiny stone supply Now this is a road-break with a difference. At the Ûiba-Ôas Crystal Market, you won’t find any biltong or bites, but you will find a selection of shiny rocks, the likes of which you’ve never seen before. Here the Damara people from the local community sell minerals, crystals and gemstones that they mine, cut and polish themselves. If you’re short on cash, take some previously loved clothes along, or bring a bag of groceries; the gem sellers here are open to any form of fair trade. For your convenience, the crystal market is open seven days a week from 07:00 to 19:00 and is located 24 km outside Usakos, at the Spitzkoppe turn-off.

What to do

in swakopmund in summer

Compiled Ron Swilling

There is so much to do in and around Swakopmund that the visitor is spoilt for choice. The desert town offers plenty to keep those in need of rest and pampering occupied, and provides myriad activities for the more adventurous and energetic.

With numerous restaurants and coffee shops to visit, Swakopmund is a haven for coffee-and-cake lovers. You can sit in the snug interiors or enjoy the sunshine in outdoor courtyards, depending on the dictates of the weather. Swakop’s restaurants offer a range of cuisine, from German and Mexican to seafood, pizza and sushi.

The town is a craft and curio shopper’s delight, and as such is the ideal place to buy those special gifts.

Pay a visit to bookshops such as Die Muschel (where coffee is served at outside tables) and Swakopmunder Buchhandlung to stock up on reading material about the country, if not buy a Namibian book or two to take home.

Several art galleries are dotted around the town exhibiting and offering the work of local artists for sale.

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Kristall Galerie Leisure time can be spent at a Swakopmund cinema or in the Mermaid Casino and Spa at the Swakopmund Hotel and Entertainment Centre.

Spoil yourself with a relaxing massage at Health and Aroma in the Brauhaus Arcade.

On a clear day, climb the stairs of the Woermann Tower in the old Woermannhaus for one of the best views of Swakopmund and the dune sea in the distance. And then take a stroll to the end of the jetty for a good serving of crashing waves and fresh Swakopmund air.

mole carmen begley kristall galerie & museum ron swilling flamingo pompie burger skydiving paul van schalkwyk

AROUND TOWN

The ethnology exhibit at the Swakopmund Museum

THINGS TO DO

White Lady spider Flamingo at the Walvis Bay Lagoon

AMPLE ACTIVITIES Meet members of local Namibian population groups and taste local Oshiwambo cuisine, such as mopane worms (when available) and a grainy mahangu porridge, on Hata Angu’s cultural tour to Mondesa on the outskirts of town.

For treasures of a different kind, Kristall Galerie displays its collection of gigantic crystal masterpieces to dazzle the eye – including the world’s largest crystal cluster weighing over 14 000 kilograms – and has a dedicated crystal shop.

Pop into the National Marine Aquarium on the beachfront to view the southern hemisphere’s aquatic jewels.

The Swakopmund Museum in its prime position next to the popular swimming beach at the Mole just below the candystriped lighthouse is a treasure trove of interesting information and memorabilia. With the fascinating People of Namibia exhibit, and displays of gemstones, fossils, stone tools, pieces of eight and relics of shipwrecks, hours can easily fly by.

The Living Desert Snake Park on Sam Nujoma Avenue, located at the old Otavi Railway terminus, is worth the walk to see and learn about Namibia’s venomous snakes and scorpions, chameleons and a leguan that loves to have its neck scratched and is taken outside for sunbaths.

Next door is the Save the Rhino office where up-to-date information is provided on the important work the Trust is doing on the desert-roaming black rhino.

Many operators depart from Swakopmund, picking up guests at their accommodation establishments for Living Desert Tours, dolphin/seal trips in Walvis Bay, trips into the Namib-Naukluft Park, stargazing desert evenings and excursions to the renowned Moon Landscape.

Bird-watching trips are offered by well-known Namibian birder, Steve Braine, giving bird enthusiasts the opportunity to see Namibian endemics. For those with two hours to spare (and weather permitting), treat yourself to a scenic flight for a view over this striking strip of land with its undulating sienna dunes fringing a deep-blue ocean from a vantage point of the gods.

FOR THE more ADVENTUROUS souls Ballooning over the Namib Desert, horse-riding, fishing, and kayaking in the Walvis Bay Lagoon are gentler activities, while adventure junkies can begin with sand-boarding and quadbiking on the sand dunes outside the town and end with the ultimate adventure – sky-diving over the desert.

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ADVERTORIAL

Swakopmund municipal rest camp Tel +264 (0)64 410 4618/9/21 Cell +264 (0)81 128 5893 Email: restcamp@swkmun.com.na www.swakopmund-restcamp.com

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hile Swakopmund is small in the global sense, it is big when it comes to hospitality. Here, where desert and sea meet in perfect harmony, there is plenty to do for the youth and Swakopmund offers a relaxed atmosphere for the older generation. The town is a precursor of history, an oasis for the soul, a place for encounters and consciousness. With its mild climate,the natural unspoilt beauty of its surroundings, friendly and healthy people, sun-bathed in tradition, Swakopmund is the goal for you. The Swakopmund Rest Camp welcomes visitors to reception as they cross the lattice bridge over a fishpond and waterfall. The distinctive A-shaped bungalows, Fisherman’s units and VIP bungalows, afford accommodation to different sized groups. They are fully furnished, including kitchens and outside braai areas.

The camp is within walking distance of town, the beach and restaurants.

We offer a variety of self-catering accommodation, from the 2-bedroomed Fisherman`s cabin to the luxury 4-bedroomed bungalow or the A-frame chalets which sleep up to six people.

VIP bungalows are also available. All units are fitted with telephones and safes. Alarm systems will be fitted shortly.

We now have a restaurant on site. This means you can have breakfast delivered to your bungalow.

Shops, restaurants, filling stations, banks and a swimming pool are all within walking distance.

THINGS TO DO GOANIKONTES OASIS a true desert haven

Often bathed in sunshine while the rest of Swakopmund hides under a blanket of mist, the grassy garden edged with palms and surrounded by rugged desert landscape at Goanikontes Oasis makes an intriguing and enticing stop for coffee and cake. Approximately 60 kilometres outside Swakopmund in the Dorob National Park, Goanikontes is a veritable little desert oasis. It has a rich history, having once been a resting place on the old track between Swakopmund and Walvis Bay. With a supply of fresh water, Goanikontes farmers cultivated vegetables here for the two fledgling towns at the beginning of the 20th century.

How to get there: Drive 40 km east on the B2 towards Windhoek, turning onto the gravel D1991 for a further 18 km. www.goanikontes-oasis.com

DAY TRIPS AROUND AND ABOUT

GONAIKONTES & ANITA STEYN ron swilling

Self-drivers can take a scenic drive out to the Walvis Bay Lagoon, a Ramsar site featuring a profusion of coastal and wetland birds.

Don’t miss the charming and laid-back Walvis Bay Waterfront behind the Yacht Club for a meal, snack, drink or coffee and cake.

Camel rides in the desert are offered ten kilometres to the east of Swakopmund, along the Swakop River banks and course.

On Saturday mornings, fresh home-grown vegetables, including Swakop specialities – asparagus and olives – can be bought at Farm Shalom (which is also a good stop for snacks and coffee). Further down the Swakop River road, Desert Hills serves scrumptious lunches and has a deli stocked with desert

ANITA STEYN: artist at work

A fourth-generation Namibian, Anita studied fine art in South Africa and has won many awards, including the Biennale of Contemporary South African Art. After exploring oils, acrylics, sketching and watercolours, she shifted her focus to ceramics and experimented with mixed media. Finding a niche market for functional art in the mid-90s, she began designing and producing functional items such as handmade ceramic basins, tiles and medallions, using designs inspired by the natural world – animals, plants and seed pods – as her inspiration and driving force.

Visit Anita at her gallery on the main road in Karibib, en route to Swakopmund. +264 (0)81 127 1531 produce such as !nara oil, hand-pressed from the seeds of the prickly desert plant.

Further north, along the salt road, visit the seal colony at Cape Cross to experience the mayhem of a Cape fur seal colony.

Explore the mountain kingdom of Spitzkoppe, 60 km north-west of Usakos, with sparkling semi-precious stones sold at the Ûiba-Ôas Crystal Market en route. TNN

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ADVERTORIAL

midgard country estate

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idgard, a 12 000-hectare Country Estate, is located 85 km northeast of Windhoek and only 70 km from Hosea International Airport. An ideal family hide-away, first or last stop for International visitors, intimate meetings, team-building events or weddings.

Steeped in Namibian history, Midgard was originally established in 1937 as the retreat and farming estate of the List family, founders of the Namibian Conglomerate, Ohlthaver & List. Today their descendants welcome you into this private world: a rare experience as you enjoy the life of early German pioneers on their farming and wildlife estate.

Midgard has 46 fully equipped rooms, a main dining room & bar, the boma, two swimming pools, gym and sauna and a private skittling alley, all situated in a sprawling country garden. Do absolutely nothing or discovering our hiking and mountain Trails, 4x4 tracks, play volleyball, tennis, table tennis or outdoor chess, do some guided stargazing and enjoy a sundowner or nature game drive to Hilltop for an amazing Namibian sunset. Wildlife includes giraffe, blue and black wildebeest, oryx, kudu, hartebeest, eland, warthog and baboons. Birding along the Swakop River is also rewarding.

PO Box 16, Windhoek Tel +264 (0)61 207 5360 Fax +264 (0)61 23 4021 Email: reservations@ol-leisure.com www.ol-leisure.com

ADVERTORIAL

mokuti lodge

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okuti Lodge, a mere 4 minutes from the Namutoni Gate into Etosha National Park, is a welcoming cool green oasis where sprawling thatched buildings, sparkling pools and tall shady trees guarantee you a warm Namibian welcome. This intimate lodge has only 90 rooms and 16 luxury rooms: all air-conditioned and equipped with satellite TV, mini-fridge, tea/coffee-making facility, and en-suite bathroom with shower.

Mokuti Lodge offers a main dining room and lodge bar, a pool bar and terrace and the only open air african boma in the area.

PO Box 16, Windhoek Tel +264 (0)61 207 5360 Fax +264 (0)61 23 4021 reservations@ol-leisure.com www.ol-leisure.com

Leisure facilities and activities abound: from its exclusive SPA, two swimming pools, a separate children’s splash pool, two floodlit tennis courts, gym, reptile park, walking trails, private airstrip and open game viewing vehicles with professional guides for “safaris” into Etosha.

At night there are open fires to gather around and tell “tall” stories after an alfresco dinner served in the Boma or in the gardens. When returning to your room, do not be surprised to encounter the resident herd of placid Bontebok and the next morning, when squirrels insist on sharing your breakfast.

A sandwich feast Text Ron Swilling Photograph Paul van Schalkwyk

The anticipation builds up as you drive south from Swakopmund towards Walvis Bay, destination Namib-Naukluft Park. The headlights of cars brighten the stretch between desert sand and sea in the early morning light as you pass women collecting mussel shells on the shore, the Damara tern breeding area and the guano platform. Eventually, lines of palm trees usher you down the channel southwards until flamingos stamp the shallow waters of the lagoon next to the roads, and the white heaps of sand mark the salt works and the entrance to the park.

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neat-looking guide had collected me from my Swakopmund guesthouse, greeting me with a warm handshake as I climbed into the Land Rover. As we drove into the dune sea of the Namib-Naukluft Park, I could see the desert fast transforming him. “One of the perks of my job is to go barefoot to the office,” he said.

What Ernst Ritter referred to as ‘his office’ was actually his playground. I watched as he took off his shoes and threw them

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into the back of the vehicle, donning his worn bush hat to show us fossilised mussel shells and middens in the sand, running to the sea like a child set free. And we, fortunate guests on a fullday Sandwich Harbour tour, absorbed his buoyant enthusiasm and were invited out to play.

His exuberance and passion for this striking protected area of sand and sea have not been diminished in his eight years of guiding in the surroundings. On the contrary, the ever-changing

Namib-Naukluft Park

Today the natural emerald-and-blue lagoon lies elegantly on the coastline of the Namib Desert, reclaimed by the birds, brown hyaena, black-backed jackals – and sand and sea.

scenery and conditions, and the sheer beauty of the desert, serve to inspire him, fanning a fire that continues burning strongly. As we drove, he shared his wealth of knowledge, not only about the flora, fauna and history of the remarkable wild and protected area misleadingly referred to as Sandwich Harbour, but about the entire coastal strip.

He recounted the past when the ephemeral Kuiseb River burst its banks and ran down through the low-lying town on its rush to the sea, and residents rowed boats down the Walvis Bay streets. This occurred in 1963, and a dyke has since been built upstream to prevent a recurrence and to enable the desert town to develop. The houses no longer need to be built on stilts, although the desert sands still build up defiantly against the walls of the houses.

Waves lapped up onto the beach against a backdrop of Kuiseb Delta hummocks, bordered by towering dunes, as we continued along the shore of the Namib-Naukluft Park, a conservation area that celebrates one of the most ancient deserts on Earth.

A midden that Ernst pointed out held a treasure trove of history.

Old hand-blown bottles, cattle bones and ostrich eggshell

DID YOU KNOW? Diego Cão named the area Port d’Ilheo (point of the island) in 1486 when he sailed into the natural harbour.

It was later a commercial fishing and trading port, attractive for its fresh water and supporting various industries such as whaling, fish processing, beef canning and collecting guano – unusual enterprises in this unlikely and desolate desert environment. Local people traded cattle for glass beads and supplies.

Eventually, in 1890, when the sand spit protecting the bay broke off, the harbour became too shallow for ships to enter. People had to then make their way overland across the miles of desert.

Today, only a few ruins and shell middens remain.

The natural emerald-and-blue lagoon lies elegantly on the coastline of the Namib Desert, reclaimed by the birds, brown hyaena, black-backed jackals – and sand and sea.

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We walked through the iridescent wonderland, enraptured by desert, sea, bird and plant life merging so gracefully in this special place.

garnet, and a sand wall had been sculpted expertly by the water. Dolphins frolicked in the waves and kelp gulls flew up in front of the vehicle as we made our way around the point where the dunes meet the sea, creating a small passageway that is accessible only during low tide. We drove through, content with the thought that we had a few hours to enjoy the treasure trove of Sandwich Harbour before high tide pushed in.

beads were piled onto this small heap of sand in the vast Namib Desert – extraordinary remnants revealing the history of this section of coast. The first people to leave their mark, discarding shells from many a meal, were the Strandlopers, believed to be ancestors of the Topnaar or ≠Aonin people. After them came explorers, whalers and entrepreneurs.

The wind had decorated the dunes with serpentine patterns and sprinkled them generously with black magnetite and pink

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After a leisurely picnic breakfast, it was time to leave the vehicle and explore. Flocks of flamingos visiting Sandwich Harbour in the dry winter months stood in the calm waters, occasionally taking to the air in bursts of pink. Ernst began pointing out birds as we walked along the sand. “My first Damara tern of the season,” he shouted excitedly as he noticed one of the small birds hovering above the water. We walked through the iridescent wonderland, enraptured by desert, sea, bird and plant life merging so gracefully in this special place.

photographs RON SWILLING

Following the tawny sand etched with jackal tracks at the edge of the waves, we reached Sandwich Harbour and parked in front of the ‘no entry’ sign. The stretch of water edged by sandbanks and green with reeds where fresh water seeps down from the dunes, is a bird oasis. It was aptly named Anixas – Place of Birds – by the Strandlopers, the Hurinin, ‘people of the sea’.

Namib-Naukluft Park The treasure chest Sandwich Harbour is a natural lagoon on the coastline of the Namib Desert in the northern section of the NamibNaukluft Park, approximately 50 km south of Walvis Bay. It is a marine sanctuary and Ramsar site supporting more than 50 000 birds in the summer and 20 000 in the winter, including Palaearctic waders and flamingos. Considered one of the most important wetlands in Southern Africa for waterbirds, it is far more than a magnificent salve for the soul. Its value in conservation terms is immeasurable.

HERE: The dune slopes provide a surfeit of activities and fun MIDDLE LEFT: Shovel-snouted lizard, Meroles anchietae BOTTOM LEFT: The wind had decorated the dunes with serpentine patterns and sprinkled them generously with black magnetite and pink garnet

Warmed up from the walk, we took off our shoes to cross the shallow water, stepping gingerly on sand circles stamped out by flamingo feet to reach the dunes on the other side. A short walk up and there, spread out in front of us, was the spectacular blue, green and ochre Sandwich feast. Ernst was now torn between hurrying us along so we could make it through the narrow passageway before the high tide came in, and pointing out birds and plants. Eventually, he managed to herd us back to the vehicle for the drive that saw us just make it through the narrow passageway as the waves began to crash over and seal the entrance for the day.

And then the rush was over, and it was back to the playground, this time driving in the dunes, dipping and cresting the sand waves, and creeping slowly down a slipface to hear the dune roar a greeting, in acknowledgement of us ‘children’ playing so happily in the desert. Ernst continued to educate us, finding a shovel-snouted lizard in the sand, showing us the prickly !nara plants that the Topnaar people depend upon, and digging holes for water in the riverbed like the jackal. As we left the dunes to travel along the Kuiseb hummocks, this time on the dune side, we braked for ostrich, to watch a contented group of springbok, and once again for the flamingos as we neared Walvis Bay and followed seals surfing the waves.

We had surfeited on beauty by the time we arrived back in Swakopmund at the end of the day. The landscape, seascape

Sandwich Harbour consists of a northern freshwater wetland and southern mudflats. The northern section is a thin strip, fed by a freshwater aquifer below the Namib dunes that seeps into the wetland, and bordered by a barrier beach protecting it from the crashing Atlantic Ocean. The southern lagoon is a shallow stretch of water 5 km long by 3 km wide, shielded by a sand-spit.

Sandwich Harbour is considered to be one of the most geomorphologically active areas along the Namib coast, changing and evolving continually, with its sandbars and beaches shifting with storms and currents.

The origins of the name Sandwich are unclear, with possibilities ranging from the name of a ship visiting the bay in the late 18th century to the German name Sandfisch, meaning sand fish or sand shark. It was more likely named after the HMS Sandwich, a 24-gun armed ship purchased by the Royal Navy in 1780. In 1781 the ship had the misfortune of encountering the French fleet under Admiral de Grasse on the coast of the Carolinas and was captured by the 74-gun Souverain. The French sold her in North America soon afterwards. It is said that she was sent on an expedition to explore the west coast of Africa where she came to grief in 1792 in the bay now referred to as Sandwich Harbour.

A permit is needed to enter the Namib-Naukluft Park, as well as 4x4 expertise and experience. Awareness of the tides and conditions are crucial, as high tide makes the shore road impassable. It is advisable to join a reputable and responsible tour operator to explore the area.

Several operators run tours to the harbour from Walvis Bay or Swakopmund.

and natural wonders had filled us up, replenishing us for future days. We were left with red wind-burned cheeks and sandy feet, and when they were gone, memories and photographs to take us back to the bay of plenty and our Sandwich feast in the Namib-Naukluft Park.

This tour was sponsored by Turnstone Tours: www.turnstone-tours.com

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Alcove of

charm Text Ron Swilling

No longer is Walvis Bay to be bypassed, driven through or merely visited for the activities in the bay and the Namib-Naukluft Park further south. It has become a destination in its own right.

Thankfully the character of the original Waterfront with its Anchors Restaurant, smattering of pelicans waddling along the paths, and boats bobbing in the water, still remains. The larger venue now provides the visitor with a wider selection of delights, putting the Waterfront on the map as THE place to visit in Walvis Bay and giving the harbour town a new face and character as a tourist destination.

Hidden behind the Walvis Bay Yacht Club, it is an unexpected laid-back gem. Bamboo wind chimes clink in the breeze, water ripples below wooden decks, and woven cane chairs offer places to sit, sip on state-of-the-art coffee and stare out into the bay in gleeful reverie as a happy beat wafts over from the bar.

It’s that atmosphere of relaxation and the call to put your feet

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up that can’t be ignored and is so appealing here in this little alcove of charm. Several flamingos welcome you, searching for food in the shallows; the sea glimmers in the afternoon light; at times a few dolphins appear as they cruise along; and the most taxing problem of the day might be choosing the seat with the best view.

An eclectic array of restaurants and shops Anchors Restaurant is still a favourite that attracts locals (and that says a lot) and tourists alike. It is jam-packed on Sundays, offering its quaint, rustic atmosphere and affordable prices.

Painted blue and orange, the restaurant is one of the more peaceful places to while away the time. Anchors Oysters is planned for next door, to provide a waiting area for the restaurant and a place to sample fresh Walvis oysters while sipping on a glass of champagne. The Jetty Shoppe next door (with conference facilities above) has ample hearts and trinkets to absorb shoppers looking for gifts – or wanting to treat themselves. The pelican rehabilitation centre cares for the baby chicks that tend to fall off the guano platform, also known as Bird Island, during the breeding season at the end of the year.

Often seen waddling about, they leave when they can fend for

photographs RON SWILLING

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esides the major attraction of pink-tinged flamingos lining the shallows in hundreds during the winter months, Walvis Bay’s Waterfront – which was recently extended – is an exciting and attractive venue. Once a few structures along the water’s edge consisting one or two shops and places to eat, it now includes a sparkling new section featuring restaurants, a bar, art gallery and coffee shop.

Walvis Bay Waterfront The recently extended Walvis Bay Waterfront makes an attractive stop for lunch, dinner, drinks or simply a quick coffee and cake. themselves. Adult pelicans gather at the water’s edge in the late afternoons for tasty titbits.

Several dolphin and seal trips begin here and this older section houses the offices for Mola Mola and Catamaran Charters and for Sandwich Harbour 4x4. Tours into the Kuisebmond township for a taste of local Namibian culture are offered by Fried Fredericks (and no, it’s not a spelling mistake).

Oceans Restaurant is the last of this row of small, colourful wooden shops, fronted by jetties jutting out into the bay and connected by a walkway decorated with an old anchor and weathered whale bones, where old, upturned wooden boats serve as restaurant tables and flowerpots.

VIEWS with capital letters are offered at the French restaurant, Lyon des Sables, which has moved from the

centre of town into the spacious and bright location on the upper floor of the Waterfront’s new section. Orange and yellow tablecloths are accentuated against a rich blue sea. Although still serving French favourites, Lyon des Sables has become a more relaxed restaurant with ample local flavour, catering for everyone and offering Namibian favourites – meat cooked on the grill (the diner can choose cut and sauce) – as well as calamari, burgers and fish. David Thomas of Lyon des Sables won the noteworthy Namibian Chef of the Year award for 2010 and 2011, and he and his partner, Virgile Meiller, still believe in well-prepared food and personal service. The restaurant has an attractive bar area on one side and an outside deck to enjoy those perfect Walvis days.

Below them the Musselcracker Tapas Bar, furnished with cane and mekoros (dug-out canoes), offers a selection of interesting tapas with names like ‘à la seaside’, ‘à la oink-oink’, ‘à la crunch-crunch’ for the vegetarians – a combination of salad, samoosas, potato wedges and vegetable springrolls – and ‘à la kids’ – aka fish fingers. The cosy and clean restaurant also houses

LEFT: The Namcrafts shop offers a large variety of fashion accessories BOTTOM LEFT: The waterfront gives you a feeling of true relaxation BOTTOM: The Jetty Shoppe has ample hearts and trinkets to absorb shoppers looking for gifts – or wanting to treat themselves

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Walvis Bay Waterfront

For those not familiar with Walvis Bay, the Waterfront can be reached by driving straight into town along Union Street until it passes the Walvis Bay Tourism Centre and becomes 5th Road. Continue until you turn into Atlantic Road to avoid the harbour gates, and proceed into the Walvis Bay Yacht Club. It couldn’t be easier!

Across from them, the Sarah se Gat bar and cocktail bar have sea-view seats. Constructed with ancient, recovered wooden jetty beams that have been sanded and varnished to a high gloss, and pieces of shipwrecked wood gathered from the shore, the bars offer a lively atmosphere. Named after Sarah se Gat, a fishermen’s hole near Henties Bay (and not anyone you know – don’t worry), the facility offers a drinking hole for fishermen and others who enjoy a bit of a beat, and, needless to say, a beer.

Sarah de Jager, after whom the fishing hole was named, was a legendary figure and an accomplished fisherwoman, who was said to be able to equal the men in fishing (and drinking).

With a Namcrafts shop arranged in colours of the rainbow, a hairdresser, a choice of art, crafts and striking photographic pieces, and an outlet for Naukluft Spring Water, the Waterfront is evolving and growing as the final coats of paint are applied and the last tenants set up shop. Worth a drive from Swakopmund for a totally different atmosphere and experience, and worthy of a turn as you drive up from Sossusvlei and round the circle on your way back into civilisation, the Waterfront makes an attractive stop for lunch, dinner, drinks or a quick coffee and cake.

So next time you’re driving in those parts, don’t give Walvis Bay and its Waterfront development a miss. Indeed, it’s a place to be included on itineraries for a peaceful day next to the azure water as flamingos fly by and the water laps lazily against the shore. TNN

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wooden boat RON SWILLING pelicans carmen begley

How to get there

‘Cuppa’ and a variety of hot and flavoured ‘cuppas’ can be sampled inside or on the deck in the rounded hanging cane chairs. Most of the restaurants at the Waterfront are open from Tuesday to Sundays and Musselcracker’s kitchen closes at 21:00 when, as the menu informs guests, the chef is ‘à la kaput!’

HERE: Upturned wooden boats serve as restaurant tables and flowerpots TOP: Pelicans gather at the water’s edge in the late afternoons for tasty titbits

ADVERTORIAL

Asco Car Hire – 100% Namibian

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custom-made Toyota Bushcamper 4x4 is the latest product by Asco Car Hire for self-drive tourists. The 4x4 Bushcamper was custom-built in Namibia and comfortably houses two.

The canopy and interior of the Bushcamper consist of thin metal sheets, making it durable, robust and perfectly suited to the needs of the traveller in Namibia. The roof can be raised for travellers to stand comfortably inside. The double bed is permanently expanded, enabling travellers to enjoy their morning cup of coffee in bed while listening to the sounds of the African bush waking up.

The interior furthermore hosts a small refrigerator, ample storage space and a small bathroom facility. Several large windows and the extendable roof allow plenty of air and light inside, while the mosquito netting keeps insects out. The camper’s kitchen unit is easily assembled outside the vehicle.

It has an easily accessible storage space and a table that is simply pulled out to hold the cooker.

For protection from the sun and rain, a pullout canopy can be stretched across the outside of the camper, allowing you to relax in the shade. The vehicle is equipped with reading and normal LED range lights inside, and a double battery guarantees the refrigerator will keep your food and drinks cold for the entire trip.

For long-distance travellers, the Toyota sports a doublerange petrol tank, allowing a travelling distance of up to 1 500 kilometres. The car is equipped with all the standard tools and camping equipment from Asco Car Hire.

Tel +264 (0)61 37 7200, Fax +264 (0)61 37 7203 Email: info@ascocarhire.com www.ascocarhire.com

ADVERTORIAL

THE DESERT HOMESTEAD AND HORSE TRAILS

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he Desert Homestead lies three kilometres north-west of the C19 and D854 roads junction, approximately 32 kilometres south-east of Sesriem. The wide grassy valley is sheltered by the Nubib, Tsaris and Naukluft mountains with a view reaching the distant dunes of the Namib Desert in the west.

In this exquisite position, we offer simple but stylish accommodation in thatched chalets designed with the fragile beauty of this remarkable environment in mind. The Desert Homestead will ensure you an unrivalled respite from the desert extremes. Tranquil surroundings, alfresco dining, delectable fresh farm cuisine, refreshing dips in the pool, stunning sunsets and sunrises are the basic pleasures at our lodge.

PO Box 97448, Windhoek Tel (+264 61) 24 6788 Fax (+264 61) 24 3079 Email: sosses@iafrica.com.na www.deserthomestead-namibia.com

The biggest little snake park in Namibia Not every family is accustomed to having a prehistoric-looking leguan lovingly thrown over a shoulder or peeping out of a shirt pocket.

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he Hebbards are just such a family and some of their fondest memories are of a leguan (monitor lizard) named Robbie that was dropped off at the snake park when it was still small.Thirteen years later they were devastated to lose Robbie. Now they have another Little Robbie that they take outside regularly for a sunbath, although the newcomer doesn’t quite fill the gap left by their long-time reptilian friend.

Long before the Hebbards became a family of strange pets, Stuart Hebbard grew up camping and collecting creatures in the bush, even starting a small snake park with a few friends in South Africa. One of the first things Sarah, his wife of 44 years, remembers after meeting him is going for a walk in the veld and being told to walk quietly so as not to scare away the snakes. Terrified of the creatures, she stamped loudly and with determination on the ground as she walked.

“I was never a snake and gogga (bug) person,” she says.

However, things soon changed and she learnt, in Stuart’s company, that reptiles were not to be feared. “Snakes are more frightened than people are,” she now says confidently.

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When they started the snake park in 1994 – it was the first one in Namibia – she ran it for the initial nine years, and in the process came to the conclusion: “If you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em.”

Since then she’s come a long way. While showing me around, she comments when we reach a large rock python curled up in a snake spiral: “She’s such a sweetie; she just hangs around you,” to which Stuart replies, “and sometimes gives you a good squeeze.”

The Living Desert Snake Park has the largest collection of reptiles on view in Namibia. The collection grew as the public donated snakes (as well as chameleons, leguans/rock monitors and scorpions) they’d been (illegally) keeping as pets. In most cases the reptiles weren’t from the area or had been found abandoned or injured. Others were given to the snake park to be cared for when they were confiscated by the Ministry of Environment and Tourism.

Three species that have landed up in the Hebbards’ care and are not indigenous to Southern Africa are albino Burmese

boomslang, school children, lady with snake, baby snakes The Living Desert Snake Park

Text Ron Swilling

Living Desert Snake Park

Namibia’s most venomous snakes These are the boomslang, Cape cobra, black mamba and Angolan cobra. Due to a shortage of human volunteers for conducting tests, it is not known for sure which of these is the most lethal.

So, although it is more opinion than proven fact, the most venomous snake may not necessarily be the most dangerous. A boomslang is normally reluctant to bite a human and its venom is slowacting, affording you time to seek medical attention.

A Cape cobra will usually inject a smaller amount of venom than a black mamba, and a mamba, due to its nervous disposition, is more inclined to bite than many other snakes and is therefore often considered to be our ‘most dangerous’ snake.

Did you know?

Of the approximately 90 species of snakes found in Namibia, only 11 are known to be able to deliver a lethal bite to a human.

These are the black mamba, Cape cobra, Angolan cobra, zebra snake (western-barred spitting cobra), black spitting cobra, Mozambique spitting cobra, boomslang, twig snake, puff adder, Namibian shield cobra and the shield-nosed snake.

An adult South African python will be able to kill a person by constriction.

FTTB: Thousands of schoolchildren visit the snake park every year; have your photo taken with Dodo, the python; a handful of newly hatched horned adders pythons, a red-tailed boa and an albino western diamondback rattlesnake.

The Snake Park houses a variety of indigenous snakes, venomous and otherwise, giving the visitor an opportunity to see local species. These include the small and harmless ones that appear and disappear like ribbons of water or flashes of light; the most venomous, including the boomslang, black mamba and Cape cobra; and the more sluggish puff adder and fearsome-looking zebra snake.

Housed in the old Otavi Bahnhof on Sam Nujoma Avenue, the Snake Park is ‘small but it’s big’, as Sarah describes it.

Information sheets about every species are pasted onto the glass and notices give valuable information about reptiles in general, adding a bit of humour here and there. As one sign informs visitors: Attention! We have only three puff adders, please don’t stand on one.

Photographs of Stuart’s thumb in the days and weeks after he’d been bitten by a stiletto snake are on display near the culprit.

Stuart laughs when he remembers the incident, not to mention the pain he endured for the 12 weeks it took to heal. He says that five years later it still hurts, showing me the groove in his finger. His snake book had warned him that if you handle this

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Snakes, honey bees, scorpions and spiders have venom.

Poison is a substance that affects one through being ingested, such as arsenic, paraffin or cyanide.

It is a myth that • Bandages soaked in petrol, olive oil or whiskey and items like banana skins, ‘snake stones’, Condie’s crystals et cetera are a cure for snakebite, so there is no need to keep a small bottle of ‘unleaded’ in your first-aid kit. Snakes often deliver ‘dry bites’ where they do not deliver much venom, hence the belief that alternative treatments can cure snakebite.

• If you kill a snake, its mate will come looking for it, unless you burn the body.

• There is a treatment that will prevent a snake from biting you, or if bitten, will prevent the venom from affecting you (this is often referred to in Africa as ‘being cut’).

• Some African lizards, particularly geckos and chameleons, can deliver a deadly bite. There are no known venomous lizards in Africa.

Prevention is better than cure The chances of being bitten by a dangerous snake in Namibia are very small, and the probability of dying from it, even smaller. Statistics show, however, that most snake bites are a result of people walking in the dark, often without suitable footwear or a torch, and people playing with or trying to kill or capture a snake.

To minimise the chances of being bitten by a snake or scorpion: • Be alert. Look before you step, sit, place your hand on a branch, et cetera.

• Do not walk in the dark without a good torch and suitable footwear.

• When lifting up a rock or a piece of wood, be alert to what could be lurking underneath it or concealed under the bark.

• If in an area where an encounter is more probable, wear long-fitting trousers and stout shoes.

• Beware of ‘dead’ snakes; some are known to feign death.

• If you’re camping, keep your tent zipped up and the car doors/windows closed.

• Do not try to catch a snake.

• When you come across a snake, as with all wild animals, don’t move suddenly. The snake will usually move away as soon as it detects you. If there is a reasonable distance between the snake and yourself, move away slowly.

• On the extremely rare occasion that a snake rushes at its perceived aggressor, in this case you, you should also rush – in the opposite direction!

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Snakes have more right to be afraid of man, than man of snakes. But whereas a snake does not know enough to be afraid, a man’s fear is usually due to ignorance.

Alexander Pope

snake, you’ll probably be bitten. He disregarded the warning, and was carrying it around gently, letting it lie between his fingers. After ten minutes, true to protocol, it bit him.

But the Hebbards, regardless of the few bites, always try to impart respect for animals, even for the creatures that constitute the meals for their reptiles. They have taught their staff, and teach the thousands of schoolchildren who visit the snake park every year, that reptiles, like all other animals, need to be respected and that they have their place in the ecosystem. Snakes will only bite from fear, so it’s best not to try and pick them up but rather to leave them to go their way, which they usually do if left to their own devices. If not, there are always those souls with more of an understanding of our scaly friends who will come and move them to another area. Once people understand that snakes aren’t naturally aggressive, their attitude starts to change. Stuart says it’s quite normal to see people arrive with a phobia and have a snake wrapped around their neck by the end of their visit.

Web-footed gecko, Palmatogecko rangei

gecko, adder, chameleon The Living Desert Snake Park the hebbards ron swilling

Venom vs poison

Living Desert Snake Park

ABOVE: A sidewinding adder, Bitis peringueyi, camouflaged in the sand TOP RIGHT: Sarah and Stuart Hebbard run the snake park BOTTOM RIGHT: Namaqua chameleon, Chamaeleo namaquensis Stuart has spent his life learning about the natural world and its creatures, discovering interesting facts about reptiles, birds, plants and insects. He’s tapped into this vast reservoir of knowledge in his guidebook A close-up view of the Namib and some of its fascinating reptiles. He’s also had ample experience of snakes only biting in defence when they get a fright or if they mistakenly think you – or your hand – is food.

Although many of the Hebbard’s snakes have come to realise they have nothing to fear when handled and usually don’t react, there have been exceptions. Stuart recounts an amusing story of a situation when he was feeding the pythons. Snakes generally have poor vision but a good sense of smell, and when they smell a tasty meal such as a rat, will grab it as it moves. In this case, it happened to be Stuart’s hand that was holding the rat. Usually when a snake has bitten you, it will release you immediately, unless it thinks it has a juicy morsel. The two-metre python had Stuart by the thumb and was not letting go as it wound around his arm. It locked his arms together as Snake Park visitors watched in amazement. They quickly fled the shop when he climbed out of the cage – with the python wrapped around him – to try and find assistance. He eventually convinced a brave young man to unwind the last turn of the snake and managed to free himself.

The most popular day at the Snake Park is Saturday, when visitors come to watch the morning feed. During the week, staff members accommodate visitors wanting to pose with Dodo the python wrapped around their necks, or if she isn’t available, one of the Burmese pythons. With many stories and rich

Down to basics • The majority of Namibian venomous snakes are not immediately life-threatening. Most species are of little medical significance as they either rarely bite, or the bite can easily be treated, assuming the victim seeks medical help immediately.

• Snakes are natural components of Namibia’s ecosystems, playing an important ecological role.

• Snakes should not be killed indiscriminately. Many people are bitten while attempting to kill snakes.

• The greatest threat to Namibia’s snakes is habitat degradation, such as bush encroachment, desertification and deforestation.

• Wetland-dependent species found along the northern rivers are particularly threatened due to alteration/ destruction of their habitat.

• Two snake species are protected in Namibia: the Southern African and the dwarf python.

memories, the Snake Park team has a love for the interesting creatures not normally encountered.

So, rather than waiting for years to catch a glimpse of our slithering friends by chance, which may never happen, this is your opportunity to make their acquaintance.

Living Desert Snake Park Tel +264 (0)64 40 5100 Cell +264 (0)81 240 3227

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Namibia’s

conservation successes paralleled by few

This is how sustainable use really works Text Jana-Mari Smith Photograph Paul van Schalkwyk

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namibia’s seals

Namibia’s track record in conservation and the sustainable use of resources has garnered multiple international awards and been described as a model that is mirrored in many countries.

Namibia was one of the first countries in the world to enshrine the protection of the environment in its constitution. Article 95 stipulates the protection of nature and the biological diversity in the country, and the utilisation of living natural resources on a sustainable basis for the benefit of all Namibians.

Through this landmark framework, Namibia has blazed a trail of conservation equalled by few other countries and admired in conservation and science circles worldwide.

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Namibia’s success with wildlife has earned the oftrepeated label of being the ‘greatest wildlife recovery story ever told’.

Namibia is the only country in the world boasting a free-roaming population of black rhino. And although poaching remains a troubling reality in neighbouring South Africa, governmental and non-governmental authorities in Namibia have been able to keep poachers at bay.

The country can furthermore boast with the largest population of free-ranging cheetah globally. Namibia has, in fact, been dubbed the cheetah capital of the world, as it harbours more cheetah than any other country.

elephant paul van schalkwyk lion flip stander woman Helge Denker, NACSO/WWF In Namibia

Moreover, it is the only country in the world where elephant have adapted to live in the harsh and marginally inhospitable desert environs. In the Kunene Region the enigmatic desert-adapted elephant population has continued to grow over the past two decades. According to some sources these elephant have increased from about 150 in 1982 to 750 in 2012. The total elephant population in Namibia also continues to boom, with the latest estimates pinning the number at between 10 000 and 12 000, up from 7 500 in 1995.

HERE: Namibia’s elephant population is booming RIGHT: The country has an expanding population of free-roaming lions

namibia’s seals

Communal conservancies is a concept which was kick-started in Namibia over 20 years ago.

Namibia is the only country in the world with an expanding population of free-roaming lion. In the Kunene Region alone these predators have increased from a virtually unsustainable population of 20 in 1995 to an estimated 130 today. Nature reserves such as the Etosha National Park have become havens for hundreds of lions.

Humans and wildlife co-existing together All these successes are linked directly to Namibia’s innovative policy on the sustainable use of natural resources and focus on involving citizens from grass-roots level up to officials in the highest echelons of Government.

Forty-two per cent of Namibia’s surface area is now under some form of conservation management, and this is set to increase. The policy of conservation that benefits the people has infiltrated to the most remote communities, and even transformed some of them into profit-driven business sectors.

conservancies, including income from employment, in-kind benefits and cash, totalled more than N$195 million.

Most of the cash income is generated through the sustainable use of wildlife, including the hunting of charismatic animals such as elephants and large carnivores. These cash payments have been essential to allowing conservancies to employ their own conservation staff, cover conservancy operating costs, and contribute to rural development activities – thus creating strong incentives for communities to live with wildlife.

Outcry against seal culling in Namibia Despite this remarkable track record, the emotional outcry of some animal-rights groups against the annual seal harvest along Namibia’s coast is becoming increasingly vocal.

Namibia’s outstanding conservation record aside, the harvesting of seal pups and adult bulls has long aroused deep emotions.

Communal conservancies, a concept kick-started in Namibia over 20 years ago, have grown from four in 1998 to close to 80 this year. Communities now have a direct say in what happens on their land. In addition to the conservation gains this programme has unleashed, the financial benefits have lifted thousands of people out of poverty and hardship.

The outcry originates primarily from a group of people unfamiliar with Namibia’s conservation record and the country’s remarkable wildlife recovery. And while there is enough scientific evidence to back Government’s stance that the seal harvest does not affect population numbers negatively, for many the concept of sustainable utilisation is eroded by the sight of a young pup being culled by a blow with a club to the back of its head, arousing severe outbursts of emotion instead.

In 2009, community-based natural-resource management generated over N$45 million in income to rural Namibians.

Between 1998 and 2010, total benefits to communal

Following recommendations from the report of the Ombudsman John Walters encouraging the disclosure of scientific data, the Ministry of Fisheries and Marine Resources has availed

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According to Bernhard Esau, Minister of Fisheries and Marine Resources, the line ministry in charge of the seal harvest, Namibia is “…one of the few countries in the world with conservation and environmental management mandated in the constitution.”

the results of the latest scientific survey of the Cape Fur Seal population conducted in December 2011. Based on this data, John Walters concluded that the seal harvest in Namibia is biologically sustainable and does not contravene any national or international laws or regulations.

He added, “Our people love their country and are committed to using and maintaining its natural resources sustainably… The primary objective of seal harvesting in Namibia is to manage the seal population in relation to the carrying capacity of the entire ecosystem, in balance with the need for sustainable usage of our fish stocks in that area of our natural resources management.”

Walters stated in this report – the second on the seal harvest – that there was ‘sufficient scientific evidence’ that the allocation of 80 000 pups and 6 000 bulls for the 2012 harvest was ‘rationally linked to the seal population numbers’.

Namibia, a co-signatory of international animal-protection policies, follows the CITES programmes of the United Nations and is not in violation of any aspect of that convention, nor the IUCN mandates, Esau asserted.

Moreover, he noted, the Cape fur seal in Namibia is not endangered. In fact, these animals are listed as a species of Least Concern by the IUCN.

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According to the survey carried out by scientists from the Benguela Current Commission, the current population of Cape fur seals along Namibia’s coast stands at 1.2 million, and Cape fur seals occupy 26 colonies on and off the Namibian coast. Female seal numbers stand at around 600 000, and 350 000 male seals were counted. Seal pup numbers stand at an estimated 254 554.

The report also shows that despite the high number of seals allocated to the harvesters, since 2007 sealers have not come close to harvesting the total allowable numbers. (No details on harvesting numbers before 2007 were given.) In 2011, 44 798

photo paul van schalkwyk

Is the seal cull sustainable?

namibia’s seals pups and 1 085 bulls were harvested. In 2010 these figures were 43 178 pups and 3 412 bulls, and in 2009, 35 394 pups and 5 752 bulls.

It is stressed in the report that the combined pup count of the three harvested colonies amounted to 121 080 individuals.

Overall, seal pup production at the 26 colonies has been steadily increasing. In 2011 the highest pup count to date – 254 554 – was made, exceeding the 1993 reference point level by 13%.

Nonetheless, it appears that it is still the method of harvesting the pups that is the crux of the prevailing international storm, despite the fact that, according to a Ministry of Environment and Tourism official, Namibia is home to hundreds of environmental scientists whose work concerns the well-being of Namibia’s environment. As such, he said, there is no doubt that if the mode of culling the seal pups were inhumane, local conservationists would voice their concerns, and offer alternative culling techniques. To date, however, major animalrights groups, conservationists and scientists have not objected to Namibia’s harvesting method, as they are secure in the knowledge that the harvest is based on scientific output, is strictly monitored, and that the method is generally accepted as the most humane and effective.

The current population of Cape fur seals stands at 1.2 million and is listed as a species of Least Concern by the IUCN. In Namibia, the three-step culling process is followed. If executed correctly and monitored consistently, this is considered by the experts to be the best practice. It involves using a hakapik to rapidly stun, monitor and bleed out the individual seal pup. The Namibian Government maintains that this practice is being followed by professional sealers, although doubts have been expressed as to whether it is being followed consistently.

An environmental biologist living in Namibia described the clubbing as ‘an extremely effective way to kill seals’, as their skulls are paper-thin. She said that with one ‘swift, well-aimed blow’ the pup dies instantly ‘if it is done properly’.

In Advocate John Walter’s first report on the seal harvest, released early in July 2012, allegations that the seal harvest did not comply with domestic regulations or international standards were refuted.

The Ombudsman referred to a WWF report, which stated – referring to video evidence – that the ‘perception of the seal hunt seems to be based largely on emotion, and on visual images that are often difficult, even for experienced observers,

Fast facts A history of sealing • The size of the seal population before the arrival of Europeans in Southern Africa is unknown, but it is thought that seals occurred on most, if not all, the islands off South Africa and Namibia.

• However, seal hunting between the 17th and 19th centuries caused a marked decline in population size.

• The effects of uncontrolled sealing combined with the activities of guano collectors and the management of many islands for guano and other seabird products, resulted in the severely declining populations.

• By the beginning of the 20th century, Cape fur seals had disappeared from at least 23 offshore locations.

• At its most reduced level, the population size is thought to have been below 100 000 individuals.

• At the beginning of 1993, however, the assessment of Cape fur seals along South Africa and Namibia’s coast had recovered to about 2 million.

• The recovery in numbers followed the implementation of legal controls on sealing at the beginning of the 20th century.

to interpret with certainty. While a hakapik strike on the skull of a seal appears brutal, it is humane if it achieves rapid and irreversible loss of consciousness and leads to death’.

Walters did, however, note that he had been informed that the Namibian harvest did not always comply with the threesteps method. He said there was room for improvement, and agreed that ‘an appropriate remedy would be to lobby for the amendment’ of regulations to ensure increased effective and humane harvesting.

He recommended several adjustments to the requirements during the seal harvest, including the fact that regulations did not require the sealers to be trained and competent in the procedures they used, including killing methods, monitoring deaths, and so on. Walters added that a report by ‘two experts who observed the harvest in 2010 when 260 pups were culled, certified that not a single regulation was breached’. They were satisfied that the slaughter was as humane as slaughtering cattle in an abattoir.

Many have argued that the economics of seal harvesting does not make sense, and that it would be in Namibia’s best interests to focus on seal-watching activities rather than on culling, which would allegedly lead to greater economic returns. However, it has been demonstrated in conservancies throughout Namibia for many years that the one does not exclude the other. Seal harvesting does not preclude the enjoyment of watching the seals in their natural environment. TNN

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ADVERTORIAL

organic square guesthouse Perfectly located in Swakopmund close to the centre of town and the main beach, Organic Square Guesthouse offers accommodation that is private, spacious and luxurious. All rooms are fully equipped, each with its own private patio and garden. The guesthouse is within walking distance of the various attractions of this popular coastal town. For your activity excursions you will be picked up at the guesthouse.

At Organic Square Guesthouse you can feel safe and at home, enjoying your privacy in clean, perfectly serviced rooms. A healthy, refreshing breakfast will get you started for the day. We look forward to welcoming you!

dünenblick self-catering apartments Our luxury self-catering apartments are handpicked and gorgeous. Dünenblick has been giving clients a unique vantage point of Namibia, a vantage point that suits the traveller who is seeking an exclusive experience – one where privacy is paramount. Whether it is the iconic modern boutique Dünenblick mansion or the luxuriously decorated Riverside Apartments, we offer you the most beautiful accommodation units, giving them that elusive quality that breathes ‘home’ and turns the tourist into a welcome and privileged guest.

We cannot wait to do the same for you!

PO Box 1398, Swakopmund Tel/Fax +264 (0)64 46 3979 www.guesthouse-swakopmund.com www.selfcatering-swakopmund.com

ADVERTORIAL

Oyster Box Guesthouse

T

he Walvis Bay Lagoon, regarded as the most important coastal wetland in Southern Africa, is a RAMSAR site that is an important way station for African and Palaearctic migrants. It is also home to large numbers of resident birds and thousands of lesser and greater flamingos.

If you’re not an avid bird watcher, the harbour town offers a range of other activities, such as angling from the beach; sandboarding down the dunes; sailing, kayaking and wind- and kite-surfing on the lagoon; watching dolphins and seals; quadbiking; venturing on 4x4 trips into the Namib Desert; or simply taking a leisurely stroll on a paved walkway around our famous lagoon. Start your day with a hearty Oyster Box breakfast, and end it by unwinding on our open deck, watching the vibrant African sun set over the Atlantic or enjoying a cosy sundowner in our sheltered lounge and bar!

Corner 2nd Street West/The Esplanade (at the Lagoon) Tel (+264 64) 20 2247 Fax (+264 61) 24 9598 Email: oysterboxguesthouse@oysterboxguesthouse.com www.oysterboxguesthouse.com

ADVERTORIAL

Erindi Private Game Reserve

E

rindi, which means ‘the place of water’ in local Herero, is a private game reserve where, surrounded by peace and tranquillity, real African wildlife can be experienced at its best. Erindi lies 220 kilometres by road north of Hosea Kutako, Windhoek’s international airport, in the triangle between Okahandja, Otjiwarongo and Omaruru, 1 600 metres above sea level and situated in a malaria-free area. With 71 000 hectares of varied landscapes ranging from mountains to bush and open savannah, Erindi is one the biggest privately owned game reserves in Namibia. Over 15 000 head of game teem over the large Erindi Game Reserve, including rare and endangered species like white and black rhino.

The Old Traders Lodge offers 35 luxurious rooms, all with a view across a waterhole. The bedroom units include rollin beds, air-conditioning, showers, baths, safes, satellite TV, hairdryers, fridges and kettles. There are two rooms for disabled guests and conference facilities for 20 people (which can be adapted to accommodate 60 people if requested).

15 chalet self-catering lodge opening soon!

Tel +264 (0)64 57 0802, Fax +264 (0) 64 57 0801 Reservations: Mobile +264 (0)81 145 0000 Email: reservations@erindi.com www.erindi.com

desert tavern Where it’s never dry

hang out at the coast Compiled Marita van Rooyen

Local artist Jost Kirsten is the reason why Desert Tavern boasts such a funky interior. As partner in the business, he added a good dose of his creative flair to the watering hole. The other partner, Peter Schneider, adds his bit by manning the bar and being available for customer queries, amongst others. The two make a mean team and have won the popular vote by playing host to long evenings of live performances by local musicians.

Think Crimson House Blues, Tribe Union, Gazoline and Out of Nowhere, and you’ve got the idea. Of course, the Tavern also hosts a restaurant and cosy courtyard for meeting up with friends. Bring a buddy and a good mood, and get into the vibe! Desert Tavern is located in Swakopmund Street, on the southern edges of town. +264 (0)64 40 4204

tiger reef Sundowners and beach vibes Situated right where the Swakop River meets the ocean, Tiger Reef might become wet from time to time. But this never stops the action. The family-friendly beach bar is the place to be if you’re looking for a laid-back atmosphere right next to the sea. Light meals are available on a self-service basis, and kids and dogs are welcome. Bring your bikini and lie in the sand or lounge on the chairs with a cold one in hand. On 28 December things will pick up a notch as Red Bull’s Da Party hits the bar with a whole list of international DJs, and a shuttle bus to make sure the partygoers reach home safely. Other big events are Das Feten Fest (26 Dec) and the New Year bash. Tiger Reef is open every day from 11:00 until the last person heads home. +264 (0)64 40 0935

grüner kranz Gruniz Pub Gruniz Pub at Grüner Kranz is where you’ll find large groups of young folk fighting for the main spot on the dance floor, that is when they’re not crowding the bar. Theme parties are the order of the day and the latest tunes are blasted late into the night.

Because it’s located in the middle of town, many feet find their way here during the late hours of the evening. Lonely Planet comments: “The hotel is extremely popular with overland trucks, so it’s a safe bet that the upstairs bar is probably bumping and grinding most nights of the week.” Who knows? Strange as it may sound, you might even walk into a bullriding competition…

Find this lekker pub in Nathaniël Maxuilili Street, Swakopmund. +264 (0)64 40 2030

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tea time For a different kind of chill Flare your nostrils to the flavours of Ulong Melon and Guava, Belgium Chocolate Truffle, Lapsang Souchong, spicy Mulled Wine Blend, and Grandma’s Fruit Basket. As not everyone likes to unwind with an alcoholic beverage, Swakopmund’s Tea Time fills the spot for the more reserved among us. Sit down at one of the antique tables, admire the funky tea-inspired décor, and call owner Brigitte Harz over for a crash course in brewing tea and choosing your flavour. All you have to do from here onwards is slow down and put your feet up; the Tea Time’s magical blends will take care of the rest. Tea Time is situated on the corner of Tobias Hainyeko and Daniel Tjongarero streets and is open from 11:00 to 17:00 from Tuesday to Saturday. +264 (0)64 40 6769

hang out at the coast SKUBBE bar For Eisbein and anglers’ gossip You’ve had a long day’s fishing? Your car is stained with salt?

You’re feeling hungry? Thirsty? But you have to clean all that fish first? The one-stop-fix in Henties Bay you’ll not find in the ’middle of town’ but rather in the ‘location’, is Skubbe Bar, where you’ll be offered fish cleaning and a car wash in addition to slaking your thirsty throat while you wait for what is probably Africa‘s most fabulous Eisbein. Oom Paul makes everybody part of the family, while Queen Petro governs over the kitchen crew. This family space with its spacious veranda provides a true Henties experience, 6/7 from 10:00 till 22:00, Sundays from 11:00 till 21:00. (RK) +264 (0)64 50 1373

desert tavern, tiger reef, grüner kranz, tea time, cosmopolitan, 3 n’amigos, the raft marita van rooyen

COSMOPOLITAN To bring out that side of you The latest addition to Swakop’s entertainment scene, Cosmopolitan, is fast becoming the favoured Mojito drinking joint. Barman Santos Shangombe proudly concocts this speciality drink ‘just like they make it overseas’, but alas, will not give away his secret ingredients. For the festive season this lounge bar/restaurant will have live music over weekends (the schedule includes a worldfamous Italian composer), performing a selection of jazz, old school and other chilling-out music. The owners, Michelle Itolua and Amelio Bortolus, are as cosmopolitan a couple as you’ll ever get, with the mood reflecting their unique vision. Specialising in cocktails, cigars, sushi, and other ‘easy foods’, the lounge bar is where you want to find yourself on a lazy evening. Cosmopolitan is open from Mondays to Saturdays from 16:00 till late. Find the marooncoloured building at 37 Daniel Tjongarero Street. +264 (0)64 40 0133

3 N’AMIGOS MEXICAN BAR & GRILL Frequented by the stars

Where ‘life’s too short not to be Mexican’, cocktails, tortillas and tostadas make up the main forms of entertainment. If this does not tempt you yet, maybe the fact that this is where the international film crew from the Mad Max movie hung out will.

They totally loved it. The courtyard is where the action happens, with fairy-light-covered palm trees and an open fire creating a lively atmosphere. Big TV screens show the latest sporting events, perfect to keep the men busy and hanging around the bar. A word of advice though: if your stomach isn’t made of steel, be wary of the Jalapeño Bullets! Pizzas (tostadas in the N’Amigos dialect) are half price on Tuesdays. Find the ‘place of the three friends’ on the corner of Daniel Tjongarero and Nathaniël Maxuilili streets in Swakopmund. +264 (0)64 40 6711

THE raft Where the inimitable Mutley hides out You can’t visit Walvis Bay without dropping in at The Raft, meeting ‘the very cute’ resident ridgeback Mutley, and admiring the spectacular 360-degree views. Built on stilts in the middle of the Walvis Bay Lagoon, you won’t find any other place where you can admire flamingos milling around in circles and windsurfers chasing the currents, while enjoying an ice-cold beer. If you’re lucky, you might even spot happy schools of dolphins splashing around. The cold ones can be accompanied by snacks such as Snake Bites and Bobotie Spring Rolls, and the chef makes the meanest, most Dangerous Dough Balls! And don’t give the Horny Rhino – Walvis’ ultimate pizza – a miss! The Bar is open from 12:00 until the early hours of the morning, and The Raft will be open on New Year’s Day! Tel +264 64(0) 20 4877

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An extraordinary Dash through the Desert Text Marita van Rooyen Photographs Courtesy Desert Dash

“Nothing I have experienced, and no place I have been, compares to the Namib Desert and its Desert Dash. It was the biggest thrill; the most sensualising and precious moments were encountered here, at this indescribable spot on earth.”

Jeffrey Norris, Desert Dash race participant, 2010 and 2011

N

amibia’s Desert Dash – one of the toughest mountainbike challenges on earth – is extraordinary in many ways. At 369 kilometres, which need to be covered in 24 hours, the solo category race is currently uncontested as the longest single-stage mountain bike event in the world. A gruelling contest between body and mind, and man and nature, the First National Bank Desert Dash presented by Pupkewitz-Nissan is a tough race, meant only for the most hardcore of cyclists.

Jeffrey Norris too is extraordinary in many ways. Not only has he taken on the Desert Dash for two years in a row; the

the route Starting in Windhoek, the route ascends the Khomas Hochland up to a level of 2 000 metres above sea level.

Navigating the sharp twists and turns of the descent – at one stage dropping 700 metres in only 10 kilometres – is made even more difficult by the cold and gloom of a moonless night. During the daytime, temperatures can rise as high as 50 degrees Celsius while bikers cross the arid, rocky monotony of the Namib Desert. The race comes to an end in the coastal town of Swakopmund.

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first time finishing all 340 kilometres (the distance covered in previous years) without being able to see a single track, rock, pothole, or speck along the way, and the second time almost the entire distance. And Jeffrey is the only sightless participant who has ever taken part in this race!

Explore sensory impressions Jeffrey’s hunger and curiosity for Namibia was awakened by tales his mother told him. Living in Windhoek during the 80s, she used to tell her family about Namibia: the colourful culture and the beauty she saw and felt in the desert. “At that point I couldn’t understand how a desert could be seen as beautiful, not to mention unleash these strong sensory impressions on someone.”

But then, in 2010, when Jeffrey was asked to race the Dash on a tandem, he accepted the offer without hesitation or a trace of doubt in his mind; he was ready to explore the Namib Desert at a personal level.

“My first encounter with the desert was overwhelming! In this isolated area where there is nothing but sand, open ranges characterised by mountain ridges on the peripheries, and at night nothing between the starry heaven and the warm earth except myself, I felt touched by life.”

desert dash This year, the event takes place from 14 to 15 December and will see 501 participants (approximately 80 more brave souls than last year and the largest number of entrants to date) take on the rugged desert terrain.

The first-ever Desert Dash, held in 2005, had only 44 participants.

In 2010 Jeffrey and his cycling partner Hubert Schwarz were not only awarded with the trophy for the tandem category, but were also honoured with the overall award for courage and performance. “It was the toughest race, the most difficult challenge, the most intensive experience, and I wanted to repeat this very special encounter.”

Unfortunately in 2011 he wasn’t as successful and had to retire before reaching the finish line with partner Thomas Muhler.

“Even though this second participation was the deepest disappointment of my sporting career, I am looking forward to another encounter with the desert in 2013.” Inspirational beings just don’t give up.

Jeffrey agrees. “I would have achieved only a fraction of my goals had I let this disability get to me. I see my blindness as more than a physical challenge; instead, I try to win additional strength and energy through it.”

Down to basics The unique trophies of the FNB Desert Dash are a trademark of the event. They are all handmade and transformed into art by metal master, trophy maker and Desert Dash participant, Hans Kolberg.

Made up of different metals, each individual part is cut, polished, drilled and assembled by Hans, entirely by hand. Apart from the central figure – the cyclist – the trophy also showcases a cut-out shape in the form of Namibia.

“This is for our international participants, so they can know where they’ve been riding.” Metalled Namibia even has the 369-kilometre cycle route engraved on it!

Get ready for the Dash – tips from the experts • “You need to have a hunger for it and be serious about training, both on a physical and mental level,” says Zoe. • The best preparation for an endurance ride such as the Desert Dash is to get out and experience the heat, the winds, the cramps, and other challenges encountered en route. This way you’ll be better prepared for what lies ahead.

• Learn to watch your diet, focus on nutrition, get lots of sleep, and prepare your family for the time you’ll need for training.

• Get to know your bicycle, and focus on building your core and back muscles to be able to sit as comfortably as possible for such an extended period of time.

For more information and events on mountain biking in Namibia, scan the QR code or check out the Rock and Rut Mountain Bike Club at www.rockandrut.org

Do the dash Other previous contestants agree that the spectacular desert scenery makes the Desert Dash one of Namibia’s top races.

“The most memorable part of the race was when I passed Bloedkoppie at three in the morning. When I saw that granite outcrop through a cloud of mist, life was beautiful. It was quite eerie, cycling by my lonesome in the middle of nowhere in the early hours of the morning, but it was a nice-scary feeling,” says Zoe Mitchell, who has taken part in the event four times since its inception.

But, she is quick to add, you’ve got to be physically and mentally strong. You’ve got to want it, and then push yourself to get it! The Desert Dash is not for sissies. www.desertdashnamibia.com

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Feed your need for speed Text Marita van Rooyen Photographs Eric Bellande

“The scene is set around the gathering at a far-off spot of different kinds of enthusiastic personalities from all over the world. Surrounded by enchanting desert colours, the universe has created the best conditions to allow this group of privileged persons to push and expand the limits of the possible. Once again this very special place where time stands still promises glory and the writing of new history… It is this timeless environment that will remain the favourite playground of the adrenalin fighters where the intoxicating need for speed and the taste of victory echoes with historic fulfilment…”

Sophie Routaboul

Broken barriers!

New records were broken on almost every day of the 2012 event! Here’s something for the windsurfing record books: On the fourth day of the event, the never-beforebroken 50-knot barrier was properly smashed: first by Swedish record holder Anders Bringdal (50.41 and then 50.46), and then by Antoine Albeau from France (50.62 knots). Pushed on a daily basis by Anders, Antoine broke the World Record eight times over the competition’s fourweek period, ending with the fastest time of 52.05 knots, making him World Champion for the 20th time! He took his leave saying, “The Lüderitz Speed Challenge is the dream of every speed fanatic!”

What’s more, many national records and national multidiscipline records were also improved, with Namibia’s very own Matthias Röttcher reaching 47.34 knots on the fifth day of the event. At time of going to print, the kitesurfing part of the event was still in full swing.

Future challenges can only be legendary!

Lüderitz Speed Challenge

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n end-of-year highlight for wind- and kite-surfers is the 5th annual Lüderitz Speed Challenge, which is taking place from 5 November to 16 December.

At about the same time every year when the Christmas rush gains momentum, a group of international speed freaks hit the coastal town of Lüderitz to compete for the title of king or queen of speed sailing. Here, the international wind- and kite-surfing communities meet to battle it out in the reputable event-specific canal that officially made Lüderitz the fastest sailing spot on earth.

All set to break the 60-knot barrier The super-speed canal, which was constructed with the exclusive aim of smashing the ultimate speed record, allowed Rob Douglas to exceed the 55-knot barrier in 2010. Only two contesters worldwide have ever attained these speeds, and both of them on the Lüderitz Canal.

But once you’ve tasted success, you’ll forever be hungering for more, and, of course, the organisers couldn’t wait to go bigger and better. “Old records are no news,” explained organisers Sébastien Cattelan (European record holder and GPS worldrecord holder) and Sophie Routaboul (second-fastest woman in the world). The canal was then widened, lengthened and deepened to create even smoother water surfaces, and enable faster speeds. And this year’s challenge is to break the 60-knot barrier! “No other event or place in the world would be more suitable to attempt this crazy record!”

Windsurfers will strut their stuff from 5 November to 2 December, while kite-surfers will battle it out from 3 to 16 December.

Participants include a whole range of international, recordbreaking speed fanatics, including Namibia’s very own Stefan Metzger, who holds the current local record in kite-surfing. www.luderitz-speed.com

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How it all started – A short history of the Lüderitz Speed Challenge 2007 French nationals and speed lovers of note, Sébastien Cattelan, and his companion, Sophie Routaboul, were scouting around for the best speed-sailing spot in the world. At the age of 32 Sébastien was already a pioneer of speed sailing and developing kite-surfing equipment in his home country. In 2004, he and Sophie had stumbled on the coastal settlement of Lüderitz. They became absolutely convinced that this was the perfect venue for breaking the world record in speed sailing. The natural lagoon at Lüderitz offered exactly the right conditions. When the warm desert winds accelerate through the surrounding hills, and reach the cold waters of the Atlantic Ocean, they cause thermal atmospheric pressure that creates incredibly high wind speeds. The couple organised the first Lüderitz Speed Challenge in 2007.

2008 Although speeds increased year by year as the sport of speed sailing gained momentum, it was considered impossible to break the 50-knots-per-hour barrier.

Up until 2008 that is. Sébastien set out to become the fastest man in the world using a sail on water, and achieved this on the Lüderitz Lagoon. One of the reasons for this achievement was the installation of a ‘chop killer’, a wooden barrier placed in the shallow waters of the lagoon, which ensured a smoother slide and increased the wind-speed angle, resulting in an increased performance of 50.57 knots over 500 metres. And suddenly the world’s speed-sailing community was aware of this diminutive little coastal setting in the Namib Desert.

2009 Just one month before the start of the 2009 Speed Challenge, the Hydrofoil, L’Hydroptere, broke Sébastien’s world record by achieving 51.36 knots in France. Sébastien had to claim back his title. A plan

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was made to improve the speed-sailing conditions even further: the organisers decided to create a channel alongside the existing 500-metre strip to ensure flat water and a better wind angle. And it paid off! In 2009 sailing speeds were dramatically increased, despite the lighter wind conditions experienced due to the El Niño phenomenon. A top speed of 50.98 knots was reached in that year.

2010 A few months before the 2010 event, Sébastien was training in Lüderitz when he hit the jackpot by clocking almost 63 knots, the highest top speed ever recorded.

This year, the world speed-sailing record for men and women was broken, as well as 12 national records.

And the 55-knot barrier was broken three times during the event!

2011 Although the newly constructed channel made a world of difference, the conditions still needed improving for faster records to be set, especially for the windsurfing community. A great deal of money and time was invested to research the possibilities of widening and lengthening the channel, creating even smoother water surfaces for faster speeds, and improving the safety of the venue. Construction of the channel was finally approved after an Environmental Impact Assessment, and – supported by the Ministry of Environment and Tourism – it was excavated. It was here, in 2011, that Swedish windsurfing legend, Anders Bringdal, reached a top windsurfing speed of 50.7 knots. Among the ten competitors of the testing team, five records were broken. This included new Namibian, German and Angolan national records.

2012 The playground is set for the world’s best speedsailing event. Now to beat the 60-knot barrier…

SĂŠbastien and Sophie became absolutely convinced that LĂźderitz was the perfect venue for breaking the world record in speed sailing.

Major milestones in the industry Compiled Marita van Rooyen

In line with the summer festivities, we are taking a look at the highlights, challenges, and stories of a few tourism companies that celebrated important milestones this year.

We also asked them where their favourite chill-out spot in Namibia was, so that we (and you) know where to go next time we (and you) hit the road.

SWAKOPMUND MUNICIPAL REST CAMP celebrates more than 70 years

The history: The Municipal Rest Camp was built under the old South West African Administration to cater for fishermen and tourists who visited Swakopmund during the festive season.

It started out as a public camping ground. The facility was subsequently handed over to the Municipality of Swakopmund and with the expanding tourism activities, the establishment was enlarged by building more accommodation units.

Our highlights: “Our highlight was definitely the implementation of a five-year business plan, activated in 2009. This resulted in a higher profit; increased customer base; improved standard of service; major upgrading of the infrastructure and facilities; a competitive pricing policy; and improved communication with stakeholders.”

Challenges: “As an accommodation establishment, we are given a lot of competition by private upmarket accommodation

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and bed-and-breakfast establishments in Swakopmund. But we’ve worked hard on overcoming this obstacle. We maintain a competitive pricing policy; increase out-of-season occupancy; consolidate on vacationers and weekenders; perform costsaving measures; create partnerships; undertake intensive marketing drives; and implement effective public relations.”

Why choose the Swakopmund Municipality Rest Camp?

“We offer affordable, self-catering accommodation in a variety of forms; are situated in a great location for exploring the town; have a well-equipped conference centre; employ trained and motivated staff; have an efficient operations system in place; are safe and secure, and also neat and well maintained; and, of course, the number of visitors who book year after year speaks for itself!”

My Namibia: Says Mike Ipinge, general manager of community development services at the Swakopmund Municipality: “Etosha National Park is my favourite destination because it is home to 114 mammal species, 340 bird species, 110 reptile species, and 16 amphibian species! And the park has good and affordable accommodation facilities.”

bungalows marita van rooyen

The Swakopmund Municipal Rest Camp, or A-frames as the units are affectionately known, started out as a public camping ground in the 1940s.

milestones

TOP: Epupa Camp staff LEFT: The camp consists of nine luxury safari-style tents erected on stone platforms

EPUPA CAMP celebrates 15 years Epupa Camp initiated rafting as an activity on the Kunene River. The camp is situated right next to the Epupa Falls, making it exceptional in the sense that nowhere else on earth will you find a waterfall surrounded by such a wild, arid desert landscape.

How it all started: Says co-owner Marlien van Zijl: “My husband and I were simply captivated by the Epupa area, and particularly the spot where we established Epupa Camp in January 1997.

There is a special serenity about the place, and over the years we’ve done our utmost to keep it rustic, among others by planting mainly indigenous plants. The most common comment from our guests is that Epupa Camp is a little bit of heaven.”

The highlights at Epupa Camp: “We launched rafting as an activity on the Kunene River in 2003. This seasonal activity is definitely one of our guests’ top favourites. Two years ago we added a very special camping area to our tented lodge. It has only five camping sites, each with a river view and its own bathroom. Our current team is another highlight. The guests always compliment us on the quality of service, the special attention to detail, and express their appreciation of our food. Our current general manager, Tungee Rafael, has been working with the company for 10 years. He is a Himba from the Epupa Falls area.

Overcoming challenges: “The most difficult challenge was in March 2011 when the water level of the Kunene rose 1.5 metres above its banks. It took us more than two months to clean it up and quite a bit longer to recover from the losses.

The river makes a curve where Epupa Camp is situated, which means that when it floods, we are exposed to the full force of the water.

In the early days when the road to Epupa was not yet part of the official road network and there was no telecommunications network, getting stock, our guests or even information to Epupa

Camp was a logistical nightmare, with trucks becoming stuck in seasonally flooded rivers. Today we have a wonderful relationship with OK Grocer in Opuwo, which, despite its own challenges with the Kunene Region being the least developed of Namibia’s 13 regions, tries to meet our needs the best they can.

The road to success: The road to success has been a chequered one, with many lessons being learnt, especially about management style and skills. But if you invest in your team, most challenges can be managed positively. Most of the staff have been with us for more than 10 years, and take responsibility for their areas of competence.

If you operate so far away from the nearest supply system – 180 km or three hours driving to Opuwo – you need to have back-up plans and people who can work wonders with what they have or can find close by.

Moreover, from the beginning we’ve had an open and mutually supportive relationship with the Himba community, especially Chief Kapika, the leader of the area. This is essential in rural areas.

Why Epupa? “For most first-time visitors who have been travelling through the arid Namibian landscapes, the sudden sight of the waters of the Kunene River comes as a huge surprise. It is a stunningly beautiful place, listed by Lonely Planet as one of the must-see places in the world. The lush riverine wilderness of boababs, makalani palms and wild fig trees offer an exhilarating background for relaxing next to the Kunene River.”

My Namibia: Marlien and her husband Wouter love camping – in the Namib, Caprivi, and Kalahari. “But Kaokoland and Epupa Camp (with our staff being like family) is really our home away from home.”

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niche in a market that was fast increasing in size and popularity. With Norbert’s assistance, they invented the ‘minicamper’– a Toyota Condor, with a built-in bed and storage space – a product unique to Pegasus. The mini-camper turned out to be very popular, especially among budget travellers, and is still a top choice today.

Apart from the campers, Pegasus also rents out 4x4 vehicles, minibuses and smaller cars.

PEGASUS CAR & CAMPER HIRE turns 20 Mona and Norbert of Pegasus Car & Camper Hire invented the mini-camper.

The story: In 1992, a lady named Elisabeth Kuhlmann started the company Pegasus Car & Camper Hire. At roughly the same time, Mona and Norbert Irlich started renting out their second car as an additional means of income. The couple had five children and Norbert was recovering from a car accident, so Mona had to find a way to keep the family afloat. Mona and Elisabeth had known each other from their previous lives as nurses, and sang together in the choir. When Elisabeth passed away in 1994, the business was carried over to Mona.

The road to glory: Between 1994 and 1997 Mona was the lone soul in charge of operations, and decided to find a new

Why Pegasus? “Compared to all the bigger car-hire companies, we enjoy personal contact with our clients and personally introduce them to Namibia, inform them about the road conditions, and pass on travel advice. We are one of only a couple of companies that still personally fetch clients from the airport,” Norbert likes to say. “I take care of my cars. It’s not my hobby to follow clients around in case of a breakdown.”

Pegasus has a remarkably low rate of breakdowns.

Recipe for success: “Always be honest, so that the client knows what he or she has signed up for. We enjoy interacting with our clients – this is our first priority – and only once we know each other, do we focus on renting the car.”

My Namibia: Mona admits that as the owner of a car-rental company, you barely ever have time to leave the office. But she’s quick to add that the animal life in Namibia is lovely, and that she’d recommend any place with wildlife as the perfect holiday. “You don’t have to do anything except watch the animals go about doing their thing, and enjoy it.”

With its distinctive Bavarian-style architecture, Hotel Europahof has been a part of the Swakopmund scenario since the beginning of the 20th century.

both counts German and Namibian attributes are harmonised, which is what attracts so many visitors to Swakopmund and, more often than not, Hotel Europahof.

The story, in short: Run by the Family Wannenmacher since the beginning of the 1990s, the family finally bought the establishment in 2002. In 2009 the Wannenmachers sold the hotel, and since March 2009 it has been under ownership and management of a closed corporation.

The guests who choose Hotel Europahof: “Over the years we have hosted quite a number of celebrities, politicians and dignitaries. In as recently as April 2011, we served lunch to the Right Honourable President Hifikepunye Pohamba with several of his dignitaries, and this year the likes of Will Young (UK Pop Idol winner) stayed with us. Randal Wicomb (SA entertainer and musician) is also a regular customer.”

What makes Hotel Europahof one of its kind? The years that the hotel was under German management left it with a distinctive ambience that makes it typical of historical Swakopmund. This is embodied not only in the German architecture, but also in the food the restaurant serves. On

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My Namibia: General manager, Veronica Townsend, loves the serene beauty of the Spitzkoppe. “When I was a child, my family used to go camping there every other weekend.”

pegasus marita van rooyen

HOTEL EUROPAHOF celebrates its century plus

milestones

THE HOSPITALITY ASSOCIATION OF NAMIBIA (HAN) commemorates its silver jubilee After independence, the Hospitality Association of Namibia played an instrumental role in the continuation of the tourism flow between Namibia and South Africa.

How it all started: In 1987 a group of hoteliers under the leadership of Johnnie Hamman – whose father had founded the Windhoek Hotel Keepers Association in the 1970s – came together to discuss the formation of a private-sector organisation that would focus on and promote the interests of the growing tourism accommodation sector in Namibia, and formed what was initially called the Hotel Association of Namibia.

In the early 1990s, with the emergence of lodges, B&Bs, guest houses and other types of accommodation, the organisation decided to change its name from the ‘Hotel’ to the ‘Hospitality’ Association, to indicate that the name was more representative of the diverse spectrum of accommodation available in Namibia.

Humble beginnings: HAN rapidly increased its membership from 16 members when it started to over 370 today. The elected HAN Executive developed strong relationships with the Namibian authorities, intitially with the MET (Ministry of Environment and Tourism) and then with the NTB (Namibia

Tourism Board), playing an important role at advisory level during the formulation of tourism regulations.

Highlights: In the immediate postindependence period, HAN initiated collaboration with the then Minister of Tourism, Nico Bessinger, to organise a ‘blitz-tour’ to South Africa. This was done to ensure the continuation of the tourism flow between the two countries despite the onset of passport control following Namibian independence, which caught the industry by surprise, resulting in many willing travellers being unable to cross the borders, due to the absence of passports. As a result of the close cooperation between the Ministry and private sector, and the mutual understanding of the issue, this problem was rapidly overcome and the tourism flow soon returned to normal.

Challenges: The diversity of services and products within the Namibian tourism accommodation sector is both a great asset and a major challenge to HAN, which was tasked with ensuring that the needs of all segments within this wide spectrum of businesses were addressed. Over the years, HAN has attempted to address the different requirements of its members first by structuring itself along geographical lines, and then by attempting to restructure itself according to categories.

Since the onset of Internet and email, HAN focused on the greater national issue of tourism promotion and lobbying for the interests of the accommodation sector as a whole. Diversity has become our strength!

The road to success: For the past 25 years, HAN has been blessed with having members in its midst who remain dedicated to the promotion of the interests of this association and the tourism accommodation and hospitality sector as a whole.

Annual HAN events have helped the association to continue growing, and attracting the support and input from strategic business partners, such as banks, the NBL and other key stakeholders. Events such as this keep an organisation alive, and members on the ball and on their toes!

My Namibia: Says Gitta Paetzold, HAN CEO: “The Namib dunes, south of Swakopmund – standing on top of the coastal dune-belt depicts the full contrasting beauty of Namibia – wide-open spaces, the large Atlantic Ocean to the west, the Moon Landscape to the east, the warm, soft, moving sand underneath, and the space! This is truly unique to Namibia; a cold sea breeze in contrast to the hot sand, the freshness of the misty winds as opposed to the hot desert air; the contrasts could not be greater. Namibia is just awesome!”

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ADVERTORIAL

hotel Heinitzburg

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22 Heinitzburg Street, Heinitzburg Tel (+264 61) 24 9597 Fax (+264 61) 24 9598 Email: heinitzburg@heinitzburg.com www.heinitzburg.com

his castle, built at the turn of the 20th century by Count von Schwerin for his fiancée Margarethe von Heinitz, offers accommodation in plush romantic elegance. Perched high above Windhoek, Leo’s Restaurant offers spectacular vistas of the city lights below, not to mention unrivalled African sunsets. Savour masterfully prepared game dishes and relish fine wines from Namibia’s largest private wine cellar.

Family Raith is looking forward to welcome you at Hotel Heinitzburg!

ADVERTORIAL

the olive exclusive all-suite hotel

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his intimate boutique hotel in a tranquil corner of Windhoek embodies the very essence of chic comfort. The Olive Exclusive – the first ultra-luxurious sanctuary of its kind in the Namibian capital – is cool, contemporary and stylish, but beats with a warm heart and authentic African soul. Its sleek, modern lines are complemented by organic textures, natural furnishings, an eco-friendly approach and dedicated personal service.

The seven suites are individually decorated so that each reflects a different region in Namibia. Each has its own lounge area with fireplace and dining room, enabling private dining.

Wide glass doors open onto spacious decks where you can relax on a shady day bed, enjoy al fresco lunches or, if yours is a premium suite, take a dip in your own private plunge pool.

PO Box 90590, Klein Windhoek Tel +264 (0)61 23 9199 Fax +264 (0)61 23 4971 Email: info@oliveexclusive-namibia.com www.oliveexclusive-namibia.com www.bigsky-namibia.com

ADVERTORIAL

NAMIBIA WILDLIFE RESORTS There are a number of places on earth that capture your creative imagination and leave a lasting impression on your mind. Namibia happens to have a number of them along its coast which serve as much sought after retreats.

Terrace Bay is one such NWR facility - an angler’s paradise offering an absolutely unsurpassed coastal experience packed into one destination.

Whereas the camp is ideal for anglers, it is also set in an undisturbed and peaceful surrounding enveloped in the sand dunes of the northern Namib Desert. Whether it is families looking for a getaway holiday or ardent adventurers looking to explore the Uniab River delta, Terrace Bay has something for everybody.

The camp caters for a maximum of 50 people and thus ensuring not only minimum human induced impact on the environment s but also an enhanced wilderness experience for the visitor.

Things to do while at Terrace Bay Camp The cold Benguela current which runs offshore in the Atlantic Ocean is the source of a large variety of fish species. Therefore bring along your rod and experience a fishing adventure of a lifetime! Remember to obtain your fishing license at the Ministry of Fisheries and Marine Resources before entering the Skeleton Coast Park.

Venturing into the nearby Uniab River Delta exposes the visitor to a wilderness aspect of Terrace Bay that few are aware of. Whether it is hiking, bird watching, game viewing or just living a sundowner on the dunes, Terrace Bay is a destination with a difference!

reservations@nwr.com.na www.nwr.com.na

ADVERTORIAL

River Crossing

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ust two kilometres outside of Windhoek, River Crossing Lodge offers sumptuous accommodation on a pristine game farm only five minutes from the heart of Windhoek and all its attractions. The German architecture rediscovers the nuances of a bygone era of farm life with high pitched corrugated roofs, wide balconies and gorgeous pots of geraniums.

Pamper yourself prior to and after your Namibian sojourn with beautiful views of the Auas Mountains, exquisite cuisine from our gardens, beauty treatments and massage to revitalise and sooth. Twenty private chalets offer the discerning traveller all the modern amenities – hot and cold beverages, a selection of television channels and Internet access.

PO Box 97448, Windhoek Tel (+264 61) 24 6788 Fax (+264 61) 24 3079 Email: reservations@rivercrossing.com.na www.rivercrossing.com.na

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1 PIECES OF AFRICA BY AFRICAN ART JEWELLERS What makes the jewellery pieces offered in this store so exceptional is that they’re all made of the finest metal, combined with natural African materials. Think golden eagle claws, tortoise shells, warthog tusks, and snake bones engraved in the finest gold and silver, topped off with pure amethyst.

This is simply why the pieces all ‘look so awesome’, as expert sales consultant Michelle Itolua enthuses.

1 Hendrik Witbooi Avenue/ 25 Sam Nujoma Avenue, Swakopmund, Tel +264 64 40 5738/40 5566

TNN SHOPPING Compiled Marita van Rooyen, Annabelle Venter

When street artist Wellington Mushonga was growing up, he used to ‘play with people in the art industry’ by helping them with beading work.

Thus from an early age he gained the precious skills required for this art form and today makes his own, unique, beaded masterpieces at the Art Africa artistsin-action walkway.

A cow sells for N$300, while a flying pig goes for N$50.

Contact Wellington at Cell 081 313 7364

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3 3 CREATIVE RECYCLING WITH !UBUS Who’d have thought that recycled keyboard keys could turn into a must-have household item? !Ubus is a wholesaler of ethnic products, sourced primarily from the Namibian tribal communities.

Keyboard-key frame: N$195 Available from The Jetty Shoppe, Waterfront, Walvis Bay Cell 081 147 3933 Also from Art Africa shops countrywide

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necklace, beaded cow, frame, wire star, daniel marita van rooyen cotton bags annabelle venter

2 STREET ART IN ACTION

WHAT TO BUY 4 ‘IKHOBA’S HANDMADE CREATIONS Having been around since 1983, the ‘Ikhoba project provides income, fulfilment and improved self-esteem to community members countrywide. Although the main focus is on ‘Ikhoba embroidery, the stores include a wide range of other funky handmade articles.

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Wired Windhoek stars: N$63 There are two ‘Ikhoba branches in Swakopmund: ‘Ikhoba Creations and Meme ‘Ikhoba. Two more outlets are situated in Windhoek, one in the Namibia Craft Centre and one in the courtyard of the Old Breweries Craft Market, called African Chic. Summer Salt is another ‘Ikhoba store, which opened in Swakopmund during October, and stocks a variety of Namibian and other African products for the tourist and local market.

Mildred Kehrmann, Tel +264 64 40 1134

5 DANIEL’S AFRICAN T-SHIRTS Daniel Panduleni is a shy guy; so don’t expect long conversations with him about his road to success. Rather spend your time admiring his handiwork.

Taught by his older brother, Daniel sells his personalised, hand-painted shirts at Tribes Trading. So buy a shirt, apron, cap, or bag and watch it transform into a piece of Africa in Daniel’s expert hands.

T-shirts cost from N$110.00 to N$180.00

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Daniel Panduleni, Tribes Trading Namibia, Woermann Brock Mall, Swakopmund Cell 081 343 5135

6 HANDMADE COTTON BAGS BY ‘KATIA’S CREATIONS’ Katia Reviglio has trained four previously unemployed women from Katutura to crotchet her various designs. The women work in their own time at home and meet with Katia once a week. The painted and wooden ornaments are sourced mostly from other Namibian handcraft projects. Bags are fully washable and can be made to order.

Black bag with ostrich egg-shell clasp: N$485.00 Small pink bag with blue painted clasp: N$225.00 Cerise pink backpack with guinea fowl: N$245.00 Beige bag with wooden flower: N$380.00 Green bag with wooden disc: N$265.00 Orange kiddies bag: N$215.00 Contact Katia for a list of outlets at 081 122 3449 or kmr@iway.na

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dana allen © wilderness safaris

Wilderness Safaris Namibia ‘Our journeys change lives’ Nature conservation and a concern for the environment go hand in hand with providing memorable Namibian experiences at Wilderness Safaris’ Serra Cafema Lodge on the Kunene River, as well as at Kulala Desert Lodge and Little Kulala on the edge of the great ‘dune sea’ at Sossusvlei.

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ilderness CEO Mike Wassung puts it like this: “As a company committed to responsible ecotourism in Namibia, we take our actions and responsibility much further than our core business.”

Over the past three decades, Wilderness has lived up to its goal of being ‘first and foremost a conservation company’.

That said, the hospitality received by the thousands of guests who have visited Wilderness camps and lodges over the years is said to be equally as acclaimed. The company’s focus is on the four Cs: commerce, community, conservation and culture. Uniting these elements involves building sustainable conservation communities where the culture of the indigenous people is respected and celebrated, and where local communities benefit from having Wilderness properties as neighbours.

Serra Cafema, one of the most remote camps in Southern Africa, was carefully camouflaged to merge into the verdant

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environment along the Kunene River, on the border between Angola and Namibia. Guests arrive by aircraft and are then driven by a guide through dramatic scenery to the camp.

Winding wooden decking and footbridges blend into the albida trees lining the river, leading to eight discreet, raised canvas and thatch-roofed chalets. Inside, each chalet provides the ultimate in bush luxury, with living room, kingsized bedroom, dressing room, en-suite bathroom and a sprawling veranda, where hammocks and sofas entice guests to stretch out crocodile-style for an afternoon nap. The only sounds are the gentle rumble of the nearby river and the lilt of birdcalls.

The ozonganda, or public area of the camp, offers indoor and outdoor dining, along with riverside sofas for sipping highlyrated regional wines, locally brewed beers or a refreshing rock shandy. As for meals, Serra Cafema’s chef, despite the challenges of provisioning a gourmet kitchen hundreds of

ADVERTORIAL kilometres from nowhere, conjures up cuisine that would be well received in any big city.

The ozonganda is the jumping-off point for various excursions offered by the camp, from guided quad-biking through the mountains and dunes and visits to nearby Ovahimba villages, to hikes and sundowners in the hills or on the river.

Driving with a guide in a 4x4 vehicle or quad-biking over the dunes is a memorable experience. Animals in the area include gemsbok, springbok, and ostrich, and even crocodiles, which can sometimes be seen in the waters of the Kunene.

Guests at Serra Cafema are asked to participate in the Wilderness credo of sustainable tourism. Electricity and water are used sparingly. In fact, water for cleaning is collected in buckets and placed in each shower – this is a way to avoid wasting the cold water that runs down the drain before it becomes hot enough for bathing.

Serra Cafema

A commitment to wilderness As a company committed to responsible ecotourism in Namibia, we take our actions and responsibility much further than our core business. We embrace what surrounds us – human, animal and the entire biotic and a-biotic environment. A combination of these factors is, after all, what sustains us; both our spiritual wellbeing and our business. A dedication to conservation, often with no apparent immediate return, frequently dictates our path into the future. Coupled with a deep respect and support of localised culture and tradition ensures that at every turn we harmonise our existence with our surroundings. In the past this approach has allowed us to operate in some of the most remote and undisturbed locations in a way that has benefited the concerned areas in almost every aspect. The costs of this approach are not insignificant, but then neither are the benefits, which are priceless in the long run.

We are proud to integrate our operations with factors that are good for us as humans while also benefiting our planet, and continue to strive to seamlessly integrate community, culture and conservation in all spheres of our operations while running a viable business.

dana allen © wilderness safaris

Mike Wassung – CEO Wilderness Safaris Namibia

Little Kulala

About a thousand kilometres to the south of Serra Cafema near Sossusvlei are Kulala Desert Lodge and nearby Little Kulala.

Overlooking the famous soaring red dunes, these two lodges use a private gate to enter the park directly. In this region, the desert landscape encompasses the dunes and mountains of the 50 000-square-kilometre Namib-Naukluft Park, as well as the 37 000 hectares of the private Kulala Wilderness Reserve, where Kulala Desert Lodge and Little Kulala are located.

At Kulala Desert Lodge twenty-three thatched kulalas (‘to sleep’ in Oshiwambo) offer a bedroom, bathroom en suite, a veranda, and a flat rooftop, where guests may use bedrolls to sleep under the stars if they wish. Three of the units are specially designed for families.

The main building gives guests the opportunity to enjoy a view of the dunes from the broad veranda, the dining room, and the bar/lounge with its huge fireplace. There is a secluded swimming pool, as well as a waterhole for game viewing. The cuisine is hearty and traditional, with beef and wild game, fresh vegetables, and imaginative desserts.

spectacular view of the desert and vermilion dunes beyond. For stargazers, there is a flat roof, where bedrolls are offered for sleeping or relaxing in the moonlight.

Linens, cottons and mohair fabrics dyed with natural vegetable ingredients add to the sense of serenity, as well as focusing attention on the ecology and environment.

The reception and entertainment area at Little Kulala is designed with unique bleached chandeliers and natural light, reflecting the desert atmosphere. There is a library, dining area, wine cellar, and craft boutique. The cuisine is sophisticated and creative; the wine list extensive.

Activities available for guests at both Kulala Desert Camp and Little Kulala include guided nature drives to the amazing dunes

Multi-generational groups are welcomed.

The reason we exist is to protect pristine wilderness areas and the flora and fauna - or biodiversity - that they support. We believe that in protecting these areas, and including the local communities in this process, we will make a difference to Africa and ultimately the world. In short, we believe that the world’s wilderness areas will save humankind.

dana allen © wilderness safaris

dana allen © wilderness safaris

Guests at Little Kulala enjoy the height of luxury in the desert.

Each of the eleven climate-controlled kulalas was designed using textured neutrals, including bleached-wood decks. Every kulala has its own personal plunge pool and private terrace.

The creams, beiges and sand colours of the décor frame the

ADVERTORIAL of Sossusvlei, nature walks in the desert, spectacular earlymorning ballooning followed by a champagne breakfast, and horse-riding in the desert.

Namibia. There are airstrips convenient for private aircraft and ground vehicles ready to take arriving and departing guests to and from the lodges.

In addition to the dramatic landscapes, visitors may see springbok, jackal, ostrich, and gemsbok roaming in the surroundings.

Wilderness is happy to assist guests with transportation and devising itineraries that include lodges in various parts of

www.wilderness.travel

olwen evans Š wilderness safaris

Kulala Desert Lodge

The inimitable

omajova Text and photographs Annabelle Venter

The very name itself, o-m-a-j-o-v-a, causes the heart to beat a little faster.

Amongst Namibians, at any rate!

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or this is no ordinary mushroom to be found in any supermarket, available simply whenever you feel like it.

The omajova is a Namibian delicacy, eagerly anticipated each year after the first summer rains by almost everyone, including the animals that feed on them. Even if you’re not particularly fond of mushrooms, the search, discovery and finally preparation of one of these ‘super-shrooms’ is reward enough. If you’re not lucky enough to search for your own (and if you do, remember to respect the farmer’s land), you can always buy them along the roadside.

A couple of years ago, while living in Omaruru, my interest in photography led me to search for the perfect mushroom to photograph, not just once, but in all its various stages of unfolding development. My quest led me first to farmer Hansie Traupe of Kakombo just outside Omaruru.

We agreed to meet at his farm one afternoon, and after travelling about 20 minutes through numerous farm gates, all energetically unlocked, opened and shut by Hansie, we arrived at a small clearing with several termite mounds, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Looking around I was puzzled to see bare earth but no mushrooms in sight. On investigation we found that the mushroom Hansie had intended showing me had been munched by a passing cow or kudu, obviously much more in need of it than I was!

Undeterred, we scouted around in the thick and prickly undergrowth at the base of the termite mounds, and sure enough found just what we were looking for: an omajova newly emerged from the hard, red earth. The strength of this fungus to push

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aside that heavy earth is quite extraordinary! Hansie told me that farmers in the area have a little contest amongst themselves each year to determine who has the most and biggest omajovas on their farm! The record for the previous year was apparently 55 mushrooms on one termite mound, and the largest (perhaps not on the same farm) had a diameter of 45 cm!

Wow! You can spend days eating a mushroom that size! No wonder the locals make mushroom ‘steaks’! Having said this, the mushrooms do need to be consumed quickly once picked (they also freeze well), as there is an army of little insects that have a preference for ripe omajovas.

Now that I had recorded the birth of a baby omajova, I approached our friends Guy and Tiny Claveau, the managers of Epako Game Lodge, who agreed to be on the lookout for suitable, accessible mushrooms.

Within a few days word came from Guy that the perfect anthill had been located and was being ‘protected’ from two- and four-legged gastronomes. Gathering my gear, I raced over to Epako to find a termite mound near the lodge with no less than 16 beautiful specimens just surfacing from the hard earth. Guy had thoughtfully hung empty mealie bags from the surrounding trees to scare off the baboons, as well as several notices to any humans who might be eyeing the feast.

Over the next three days I was able to photograph at my leisure as the omajovas grew to their full size, before they needed to be harvested for dinner at the lodge on the third day!

Namibia’s giant mushroom There are many ways to prepare amajova – fried in butter, grilled, as ‘steaks’ fried in batter, prepared as soup, risotto, sauce or wrapped in pastry, on pizza or even in ice cream, which, strangely enough, is actually delicious!

All that remained now was to put the photographs together as a visual record of Namibia’s magical mushroom, but I came up against a problem when it came to the spelling of omajova.

After phoning around a bit and doing some research on the web, I still had not found an answer I could be sure of.

And then I came to my senses. Since it’s a Herero word, I decided to ask the Herero people what they thought. That’s when I discovered there are at least two ways of spelling it.

As Monica Tjirare, a schoolteacher from Omaruru told me, the older people had learnt to spell it omayova, but the younger folk now spelt it omajova or omajowa. There may well be other variations, for all I know.

Whichever way you spell it, there are many ways to prepare it. Fried in butter, grilled, ‘steaks’ fried in batter, prepared as soup, risotto, sauce or wrapped in pastry, on pizza or even in ice cream (strange maybe, but actually delicious!). It’s definitely worth making this annual Namibian tradition yours, if you haven’t already done so. And if you can’t make it out to the country, you might be lucky enough to find it featured on a few restaurant menus in Windhoek from February until April. But if you missed it this time round, you will just have to wait until next year! TNN

Omajova pasta 500 g green tagliatelli Sauce 1 omajova or 6 big black mushrooms, diced 2 cloves garlic, crushed 30 ml butter 1 onion, diced Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Pinch of sugar 1 red chilli, seeded and finely sliced 60 ml dry white wine 15 ml fresh thyme 60 ml cream (optional) 30 ml fresh parsley for garnish Freshly grated Parmesan cheese Heat butter in pan, add onions and fry until golden.

Add the wine, thyme, salt, pepper and sugar; simmer until reduced.

Add the cream if used.

Ladle on top of green tagliatelli and garnish with fresh parsley and Parmesan.

photographs hentie burger

Add omajova, chilli and garlic, sautĂŠ until soft.

namibian recipes

grilled omajova salad 1 omajova or 6 big black mushrooms, thickly sliced 50 g thinly sliced smoked venison or beef biltong (not totally dried) Marinade 4 cloves of garlic Bunch of fresh parsley 45 ml lemon juice

Omajova gratin

90 ml olive oil Salt, freshly ground black pepper and a pinch of sugar

1 big omajova or 6 big whole black mushrooms 60 ml sour cream (optional)

Salad Ingredients Rocket Frilly lettuce Thinly sliced cucumber Spring onions

Filling 2 tomatoes, finely chopped 1 green chilli, seeded and chopped 1 onion, finely chopped

5 ml ground cumin Bunch of fresh coriander, finely chopped 125 ml bread crumbs 125 ml grated mozzarella 15 ml parsley, chopped 30 ml melted butter Salt, freshly ground black pepper and a pinch of sugar

Liquidise ingredients for marinade and cover the omajova strips.

Mix all the ingredients for the stuffing.

Take out of sauce and char-grill on hot steak grill or pan.

Cover the inside of the omajova or mushrooms.

Use remaining marinade as salad dressing.

Bake at 180ËšC for 30 minutes or until golden brown on top.

To assemble, arrange the rocket and lettuce on a big salad platter or individual dishes.

Drizzle with sour cream.

Cover with any salad ingredients that are available.

Garnish with strips of omajova and slices of venison.

Recipes from My Hungry Heart by Antoinette de Chavonnes Vrugt Price: N$350.00 in Namibian outlets

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TNN foodies Compiled Marita van Rooyen

Summertime in Namibia is marked by sunshine, people who have morphed into lazy beach bums… and good food. And since just about everybody heads west for the coast – pretty much like a pilgrimage to a summer mecca of sorts – we’ve asked some of the locals to share their favourite eateries and dishes at the coastal resorts.

Heinrich Nghidipaya Owner and founder of Hafeni Cultural Tours, community tourism leader

Eckhard Demasius CEO of the Swakopmund Municipality

Hansa Hotel

“Personally, I’m impressed with most of the restaurants in Swakopmund. It all depends on what you want to eat and what kind of atmosphere you’re looking for. For a classical eating experience, I’d recommend the restaurant at the Hansa Hotel. The Tug is very accommodating towards those with food intolerances and allergies; The Jetty always pleases; and The Wreck is a great place to go if you’re looking for that ‘something else’ – the chicken and prawn curry there is exceptional.”

Mike Ipinge General manager of community development services at the Swakopmund Municipality “I have two favourite eating places in Swakopmund: Ocean Basket and Kücki’s Pub. Both of these offer exceptional seafood dishes – my all-time favourites – and a down-to-earth atmosphere, where everyone is welcome.”

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Daniela Jansen van Vuuren Co-owner at Catamaran Charters, and mother of two “Me and my family’s favourite eating place in Walvis Bay is Probst Bakery & Restaurant. It’s not only kiddie-friendly there, but I can happily start off with dessert before moving on to the main meal, without feeling guilty! Although Probst is known mainly for its schnitzels and steaks, baked cheesecake and Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, I love eating the cupcake of the day or the icing-sugar-coated muffin, not to mention the peri-peri prawns with lots of lemon and salad, or the fried calamari with lemon and salad.”

the wreck, kücki’s pub, probst, the tug, the lighthouse, brauhaus, erich’s restaurant, driftwood marita van rooyen jetty 1905 ron swilling jetty ed jenkins

“The Jetty 1905 restaurant is an exceptional eating place, not only because of the view and the fact that you’re literally on top of the ocean, but also because it offers something different. There really is nothing else like it in Namibia!

The prawns are my favourite; they are fresh, cooked to perfection, and taste like a seafood delicacy should!”

EATING OUT Rod Braby Conservationist

Moses Helao Owner of Karakulia Weavers

“Swakopmund’s Jetty Bar is number one in terms of comfort, value for money and good ambience. It’s absolute magic sitting out there, at the end of the pier, with seabirds circling around, and the ocean at your feet. The tapas, sushi and curry are my favourites.”

Raymond Inixab owner at Hata Angu Cultural Tours, professional sandboarder, football lover, and community developer “In Swakopmund my favourite place to eat is the Lighthouse Restaurant: it’s located right on the beach, has a fantastic vibe and great sunset views. My favourite dish is the kabeljou and rice; it’s melt-in-the-mouth good!”

“I like both The Tug and The Lighthouse restaurants, but if I had to go with one of these, I’d choose The Lighthouse; it has a great, diverse menu, which changes ever so often. It makes life interesting, as I prefer to order something different every time I go out.”

Bubble Burns Owner of Art Africa gift stores, the Garden Café, and the Brigadoon B&B “The Swakopmund Brauhaus is central, has a great atmosphere and the service is exceptional. The staff members have been there for years. Once ordered, the meal arrives faster than any other restaurant I have dined at, yet the establishment definitely doesn’t fall into the fast-food category. The game steak of the day – usually gemsbok – is my ultimate favourite. The Brauhaus consistently makes the best steak in Swakopmund!”

Herbert Salomon Owner at Salomon Goldschmied

Noleen Lohmeier Wife of Herbert Lohmeier (co-owner of Lohmeiers Men’s Outfitters)

“The fish soup at Erich’s Restaurant is the best! But Swakopmund’s Hansa Hotel also offers an excellent menu, featuring a wide choice of hearty, comfort, home-cooked foods.

And it’s all great value for money!”

“Driftwood Restaurant has a cosy and comfortable atmosphere.

The steak fillet there is the best in Swakopmund; quality meat, grilled to perfection!”

Estelle Rubow Office manager at Henties Bay Tourism “In Henties Bay, Fishy Corner is simply the best place to curb any seafood cravings. The prawns are amazing, and the kabeljou is fantastic. The presentation too is good, but best of all: everything is fresh from the sea.”

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HERE: Crinum buphanoides captured in Omaruru MIDDLE: ‘Elephant’ beetle (also known as the red lily weevil), Brachycerus ornatus BOTTOM: The Crinum paludosum lily spectacle on Farm Sandhof close to Maltahöhe

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namibia’s lilies

Summer flower show

Text and photographs Annabelle Venter

Purple thunderclouds, the scent of rain, hand-rearing baby weavers, baby springbok taking their first steps, hunting for omajovas, carpets of yellow flowers… and lilies. These are a few of my favourite things about summertime in Namibia.

G

rowing up in Cape Town, I had become spoilt by greenery, so you’ll forgive me if I don’t add the equally magnificent summer grasslands to my list. Being accustomed to the Cape fynbos of my youth, it took me several years to notice that Namibia had a spectacular flower show all of its own.

When living in Omaruru some years ago, I started noticing some pink rather handsome lilies appearing after the short October rainy season. This brief preview of blooming in November was a taste of things to come and a miracle in its own right, exposed by a few lilies rushing to complete their annual cycle before crisping up in the baking December sun.

This beautiful lily specimen was the Crinum buphanoides, a member of the amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae). It grows in sandy and marshy areas in northern Namibia, and the plants surface only a couple of weeks after a really good soaking of rain. Once their blooms have dried out and become shrivelled, we start the long wait for the real summer rains to begin... watching as the clouds move in promisingly from the east, only to stop directly overhead!

The rainy season in Omaruru Omaruru seems to be a kind of watershed for the clouds – we are taunted by the promise of heavy, thunderous storms to the

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The trials and tribulations of photographing lilies

east, while clear blue skies sparkle a few kilometres away to the west. It’s enough to drive any Capetonian crazy enough to head off down south!

Lily photography is rewarding but don’t underestimate the hard work! I discovered I had lost two rubber feet off my tripod – they had been sucked into the mud along with my flip-flop, and unfortunately the tripod had sucked up tons of sand into its hollow legs and would now have to be used specifically for lily shoots! Oh yes – I’m already looking forward to next year’s lily trip.

By now we’d had many months of dry, sunny and mostly cloudless days behind us after the last rains in April. But I knew that soon the oppressive heat would break and those who sat it out, by choice or otherwise, would be treated to one of nature’s spectacular annual displays – the first rains of the year and all the treasures that are then released from Earth.

A tip – cover the feet of your tripod with rubber or plastic before you go, and wear old clothes, because the redrown mud will ruin everything.

First to appear in my Omaruru garden were always the red velvety mites, simply popping up from the soil overnight.

Where had they been hiding all year? They scurried about their business in a certain area of the garden for a week or two before disappearing again as mysteriously as they had come.

This summer my goal is to find and photograph Crinum lugardiae, which I believe is a much tamer challenge – they grow in and around Windhoek, after all!

Together, these three species of Crinums are the most common and easily seen in Namibia, if only for a brief period of time. Actually… part of the fun is getting your timing right.

After a really good first shower, termites started streaming out of small holes in the ground and hit the air flying, so to speak!

They came in an endless swarm and flocked to the nightlights, where by morning most of them had shed their wings and scurried away to start a new life cycle, leaving us piles of fading iridescent wings to sweep up.

About two to three weeks after the first good showers, it was time to go to the old battlefield near the Franke Tower and Omaruru Guesthouse (in former years known as the Staebe Hotel) and see how the annual rebirth of the lilies was progressing. By now the ground was covered with the first green haze of grass. Here and there swathes of fat juicy leaves had appeared, announcing the arrival of Crinum buphanoides to delight the locals for another season. Buds dripping from the night’s rainfall were a delight to photograph.

Capturing them on camera Then the work began for me, as in being up before sunrise every morning for the next week at least, to have the tripod and camera set up just before the sun rose. Every morning the same people crossed the lily fields on their way to work, taking their children to school, or walking their dogs, and after a few days we greeted each other like old friends, as I pointed out a new specimen or an exceptionally full bunch of pink lilies. Some, I realised, hadn’t noticed the beautiful lilies before, even though they used the path daily. I spoke to Omaruru residents who didn’t even know of their existence! Hopefully this has now changed.

Ironically though, while I was photographing them in 2008, their full flush of magnificence coincided with the date of a battle between the Germans and Hereros, 100 years previously. The lilies now marked the spot where so many people had fallen in the tragedy of war. As I wandered around amongst the kneedeep pink carpet, I wondered if there had been lilies here a hundred years ago.... This is probably not the sort of detail that’s recorded in history books.

Crinum buphanoides

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As the rain continued and ever more lilies appeared, I found clusters in huge pools of water. While photographing them I was treated to a symphony of frog calls while the rain began to fall softly again. Pure magic!

namibia’s lilies In a pan-like area of some 800 hectares, the Crinum paludosum is a lily that flowers only after very specific climatic events.

The elusive Sandhof lily Then we moved to Windhoek, and closer to another of Namibia’s lily spectacles. I was more than eager to capture the next lily show on camera. This time it would be Crinum paludosum, undoubtedly Namibia’s most famous lily.

Forty kilometres north of the town Maltahöhe is Farm Sandhof, which has an unusual and special attraction. In a pan-like area of some 800 hectares, this particular species is found, and it flowers only after very specific climatic events.

I kept hearing and reading the same story about these lilies, and soon realised that it would take careful planning and research to actually get to see this special show. So I joined the lily enthusiasts and started calling the Maltahöhe Hotel on a regular basis to hear what was happening down south.

Owner Arno was happy to oblige and never seemed to tire of answering my many enquiries and emails regarding the lilies.

It takes a minimum of 30 cm of rain to fill the pan sufficiently for the dormant bulbs to start developing. Then it takes only five to seven days of fervent growing activity before they start to flower. Once they start, you have about three days to capture the lilies photographically in their many shades

Taking on the big challenge After lunch we set off, armed with sunhats, tripods and cameras… and a tangible sense of anticipation. A few storm clouds were gathering on the horizon. When we arrived at the farm gate, we were greeted by two smiling young girls in a small makeshift shelter. There was an impromptu arrangement of lilies in a vase – proof at last that these elusive lilies were indeed in flower! After buying a lily T-shirt from the girls, we were on our way again, and arrived as the first clouds started moving in overhead – great for photography! We soon realised that to get the shots we were after, we would have to wade to the middle of the lily field closest to us. It was about 100 metres away.

Fifteen minutes later, after a slow trudge through calfdeep water and mud that sucked at our shoes and sent us sliding this way and that, we arrived, well sort of, in the middle of even more water and mud! Fortunately I could hang my camera bag on the fence we had been following, and so began the most difficult three hours of photography I had done in a while, not least of all because there was just nowhere to sit and take a rest.

Crinum paludosum of pink, stretching as far as the eye can see. As you can imagine, getting your ducks in a row to see this spectacle is no mean feat!

Finally we set off on our quest, which just happened to coincide with a trip to Cape Town, so a stopover en route seemed to fit in nicely. We had arrived at the oldest hotel in Namibia in just the nick of time, said Arno. TNN But the silence and atmosphere more than made up for it.

Being surrounded by pink lilies in all stages of flowering, was like being a kid in a sweet shop. As the hours passed by, I saw a heron fishing further in the pan and then a sweet twittering sound filled the air. A small flock of blackwinged stilts glided gracefully over the pinkness, followed by silence. Here and there small iridescent green beetles flitted between the flowers, and eventually I spotted what I had been searching for – an ‘elephant’ beetle (also known as the red lily weevil), Brachycerus ornatus. He is a large rotund fellow about five centimetres long with a ‘nose’ resembling an elephant’s trunk. He was munching his way through a beautiful fresh cerise bloom, and was soon done, moving on to the next one. I had been told that when the flowers were at their best, there could be several thousand of these beetles at one spot. I wasn’t sure I’d like to continue wading barefoot in the mud, as I’d already lost one of my flip-flops!

Just as the light started fading and we began making our way back to the car, the clouds and sunset put on a spectacular display of reflections in the water. But by then it was time to go and clean up at the comfortable Maltahöhe Hotel and indulge in a well-deserved dinner.

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SUMMER WEATHER ‘It never rains, but it pours’ is a good way to describe much of Namibia’s rainfall Compiled Annabelle Venter Photographs Paul van Schalkwyk

A

lmost all our rain falls during the summer months.

Generally speaking, the north-eastern areas receive most of their rainfall during December and January, and further south-west the highest rainfall periods fall in January to March.

Summertime is a long, hot waiting game... waiting for the rains.

But there’s a beautiful reward at the end.

By late summer most of Namibia is in the grip of extremely dry weather and the beige-toned landscape seems to be holding its breath in anticipation of the rains making their appearance.

As December draws to a close, our northern regions will have received their first rains, while further south we are often still waiting. We watch the magnificent clouds build up every afternoon, billowing out from the east. But no, it’s not yet our time to celebrate. So we continue waiting.

When the rains do start, it’s such a welcome relief that they become the hot topic of conversation among all Namibians, the main question being: “How much rain did you have?” Rainmeter sales probably rocket towards the end of the year. After the oppressive build-up of heat, we love the cool nights, lying in bed listening to the rain on our roofs and the thunder rolling around in the skies. We wake up with a sense of renewal; everything seems freshly laundered and revitalised. Our skins are less dry and the landscape seems to turn green overnight.

Come December and Namibians are winding down for their annual holidays. Many look forward to going home to the Owambo and Caprivi regions to reunite with their families and work in the fields. This is a much-anticipated economic activity every year, and depends crucially on rainfall – how much and when it falls. It’s a time to celebrate and renew social ties, and for many, the cultivation of the land strengthens traditional bonds. To escape the stifling heat of the interior, city dwellers head off en masse to the coast where it’s cool. For some it’s the time to angle – for others to simply relax and catch up with friends and family.

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Up in Caprivi, the summer rains will already be in full swing, while in Etosha the land is often still dry. December and January before the rain, is an excellent time to visit Etosha, as game and predators congregate around the waterholes.

This is where you’ll see thousands of birds gathering to drink – red-billed queleas, shaft-tailed whydahs in breeding plumage, and summer avian visitors like Abdim’s storks. The trees will be alive with twittering, thirsty birds, and all over you’ll hear the plaintive calls of cuckoos – a sure sign that summer is here.

All the cuckoos are summer visitors, along with European beeeaters and European rollers. In January/February the red-billed queleas are nesting – thousands to a tree – and wattled starlings will entertain you with their clown-like plumage. By December the springbok have usually started lambing and it’s fun to try and spot the very first babies! This is definitely the hottest time of year.

When travelling between Okahandja and Karibib or north of Okahandja you may see people along the roadside selling wild, giant, edible mushrooms. Called omajovas, they are a delicacy that grow at the foot of termite mounds and appear only after sufficient rain.

In February, about three weeks after the first good rains, summer flowers begin to appear all over the country. Near Maltahöhe, you might be lucky enough to feast your eyes on the pink lilies, Crinum paludosum in bloom in a pan on farm Sandhof – 800 hectares of them in a good year! You’ll also find the central highlands and beyond carpeted in the tiny yellow ‘duwweltjie’ flowers. In Omaruru, next to the Franke Tower, the annual spectacle of the pink lilies Crinum buphanoides is a sight not to be missed by any lily-lover.

January and February are good months for swimming in Swakopmund, as this is when the water is at its warmest. www.namibiaweather.info, www.weather.namsearch.com www.climatetemp.info/namibia/

WEATHER IN SUMMER Coastal averages FOR SUMMER

moon phases for SUMMER 2012, Namibia

DECEMBER

JANUARY

FEBRUARY

Max/min temp ˚C

14/22

15/24

16/23

Average rainfall/mm

0

0

5

Wet days (>0.1 mm)

1

1

1

Relative humidity %

23

27

35

WINDHOEK averages FOR SUMMER

NEW moon

FULL moon

SPRING equinox

14 November 13 December 11 January

28 November 28 December 27 January

21 December

SPRING

sunrise windhoek

sunset windhoek

15 September 15 October 15 November

06:48 06:19 06:00

18:46 18:56 19:13

DECEMBER

JANUARY

FEBRUARY

Max/min temp ˚C

16/30

17/30

16/28

With summer comes an increased risk of malaria

Average rainfall/mm

47

77

73

The hot, humid conditions and standing pools of water create ideal breeding conditions for mosquitoes.

Wet days (>0.1 mm)

6

8

9

Relative humidity %

31

40

46

north-eastern Namibia FOR SUMMER DECEMBER

JANUARY

FEBRUARY

Max/min temp ˚C

19/32

19/31

18/30

Average rainfall/mm

83

128

147

Wet days (>0.1 mm)

9

12

13

Relative humidity %

44

50

53

Malaria is still the number-one killer disease in Africa, so be sure to take prophylaxis if you plan to visit areas north of Windhoek, especially during the rainy months. In years of increased and prolonged rainfall, the risk of contracting malaria is also increased and prolonged.

Consult your family doctor before leaving home, as some prophylaxis regimes need to be started before your trip.

And remember to mention that you visited a malarial area if you should become ill on your return home.

Rub or spray mosquito deterrent on exposed skin and wear long sleeves, long pants and socks if sitting outside at night, Sleep under a mosquito net when possible.

Common symptoms of malaria include: headache, fever and rigours (violent shivering), which typically begin one week to a month (sometimes longer) after you’ve been bitten.

Did you know?

The average annual rainfall for Swakopmund is often less than 20 mm and for Katima Mulilo around 700 mm!

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SUMMER 2012/3

75

A hidden jewel close to Etosha Text Jana-Mari Smith Photographs Christie Keulder

It’s tempting for anyone driving to northern Namibia to visit Etosha National Park, the traditional land of the Owambo people, and the lush green regions of Kavango and Caprivi, while ignoring one of Namibia’s smaller towns en route – Tsumeb.

T

his town is a hidden gem, literally and figuratively, and to miss out on a two- or three-night visit is quite frankly a mistake – a missed opportunity to delve a little deeper into Namibia’s fascinating past, to miss out on unique Namibian geological formations – two deep, ice-blue ‘bottomless’ lakes and fascinating caves – and, of course, the biggest meteorite known to man.

Besides, if you forego a chance to overnight in Tsumeb, you would lose out on viewing an ancient ostrich-eggshell necklace thought to have been crafted in a creative moment some ten thousand years ago.

Most of all, you would be missing out on the amazing people, who have cooperatively managed to forge an astounding, fascinating collective memory – one that contains an underwater museum, gives you a glimpse into the ancient traditions of the Bushmen, provides an unexpected insight into Namibia’s industrial revolution, and conveys the many stories around the famed ‘green hill’.

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World-renowned mineral deposits As described by one writer: “Tsumeb can justifiably be listed among the greatest natural wonders of earth. Never before has a mineral source delivered so much extraordinary material, mineralogically and aesthetically speaking, over a period of some hundred years.”

Over the past century many of these world-famous minerals attracted an array of eccentric mineral hunters from across the world, giving rise to several mineral conspiracies. A varied display of these minerals can be viewed at the Tsumeb Museum.

It is estimated that of the 52 mineral specimens first discovered in the Tsumeb environs during the copper-mining years, 40 are known to occur only in the green hill. In total, 242 different minerals have been mined in and around Tsumeb, of which 40 have not yet been identified. The minerals here are known to be so perfectly and purely crystallised that many mineral enthusiasts praise this town as being home to some of the finest crystals ever formed and discovered.

tsumeb The Green Hill The name Tsumeb, derived from the Bushman word tsombtsou, means ‘to dig a hole that collapsed again’.

The Bushmen are thought to have lived close to the Green Hill, and took pains to conceal its existence from competing tribes.

They recognised the immense wealth of the knoll – coloured green by the rich copper and mineral deposits, and kept it a secret from others for centuries. Sadly, their attempts to settle close to the hill failed, because they struggled in vain to dig a well to supply water.

It is claimed that despite numerous attempts, the brittle dolomite earth of the green hill caused the well to collapse – again and again. Tsombtsou!

The Bushmen used the natural environment around the hill to shield it from competitors – mainly Owambo tribes. A natural line of trees had sprung up in the area, effectively shielding it from view. With a little extra care and attention provided by the Bushmen, the green hill remained tucked away from everyone for centuries. In a final attempt to keep the green hill a secret, the Bushmen opted to settle in the vicinity of Otjikoto Lake.

For centuries, Lake Otjikoto – situated about 20 km north of Tsumeb – served as the biggest copper supermarket in the country. It is here that the local Hai||om Bushman clan came to sell the green metal to their biggest buyers, mostly an Owambo tribe, the Aandonga.The lake acted as a central meeting point for the two tribes, with the Owambo bartering a variety of objects, such as glass beads, salt, knives, spears and more.

In return, the Bushmen, who were able to mine the copper but not smelt it, offered up the precious metal, which the Owambo used to create ornaments and jewellery, among other items.

It is estimated that the lake measures around 102 metres in diameter. Its depth is open to debate. While many years ago the explorer Galton plumbed it as 55 metres, some say it is around 70 metres deep, while others think it might extend down 100 metres or more.

In total, 242 different minerals have been mined in and around Tsumeb, of which 40 have not yet been identified.

Following a silent trade – the language barriers forced the two tribes to a non-verbal negotiation of goods – the Owambo sprang into action. A termite mound was hollowed out, into which the ore was placed. Channels were then dug around the base of the termite mound and spreading in different directions. The copper inside the termite hill was melted by the fierce heat produced by a coal-and-wood fire built around the ore mound. The fire was kept at maximum temperatures with the use of bellows. The melted copper eventually ran down the drainage channels and filled deep holes dug with special sticks at the end of the tunnels. Different casts were created at the end of the funnels for fashioning thick ankle bracelets, arrowheads and spears. After the copper moulds had cooled down, they were transported manually by the Owambo back to their homes in the north – hundreds of kilometres away.

The copper rush The ‘discovery’ of the rich copper and mineral deposits at Tsumeb by Europeans at the end of the 19th century, unsurprisingly, caused a surge in European settlers streaming to the then South West Africa to find their riches.

The first European explorers who scrutinised the hill, immediately recognised its value. “In the whole of my experience, I have never seen such a sight as was presented before my view at Tsumeb, and I very much doubt that I shall ever see another one like this in any other locality,” wrote Mathew Rogers on 12 January 1893 after his first sight of the green hill.

Setting up a full-blown, albeit primitive, mining operation took a few years, but by 1900 the first shipment of ore was transported by ox cart to Swakopmund.

LEFT: The De Wet Shaft – the so-called Grand Old Lady of Namibian copper mining BELOW LEFT: Tsumeb Arts and Crafts Centre BELOW: The Ethnology Room at the Tsumeb Museum

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ADVERTORIAL

Kupferquelle resort A

gem of a different nature, the Kupferquelle (Copper Fountain) Resort on the outskirts of Tsumeb offers a cool oasis for travellers heading for the Etosha National Park and the Omasati, Kavango and Caprivi regions.

The resort prides itself on its think-green attitude, and has installed solar water heaters for all 40 guest rooms, a reflection of management’s attitude towards the resort overall. All features, including the chalets and camping areas, blend seamlessly into the landscape.

Adults and children alike can take a refreshing plunge in the clear blue waters of the Olympic-sized swimming pool.

The Kupferquelle Resort offers a choice of standard and selfcatering chalets, all decked out in clean, smart and modern styles with an African twist. Built atop a rise of boulders, the chalets give visitors the opportunity to take in the natural, tranquil bush scene. All rooms have en-suite bathrooms, teaand-coffee-making facilities, air-conditioning, a fan, TV with DStv, a safe, and stylish yet comfortable furniture. Each room has a private deck, from where you can enjoy your morning coffee or a nightcap, listening to the sounds of the wild.

The camping sites, located under shady trees on cool, wellkept lawns, are equipped with lights, two types of electrical plugs, drinking water and a braai and grill. A well-maintained ablution block is available to all campers.

photos: christie keulder

The resort has a convenience store, offering anything from drinks and maps to camping necessities. Guests can pop into a recently opened salon for an extra treat in the shape of a quick pedicure or massage.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served at a Dros bar and

PO Box 184, Tsumeb Tel +264 (0)67 22 0139, Fax +264 (0)67 22 0149 Email: booking@kupferquelle.com www.kupferquelle.com

restaurant situated next to a green lawn and aqua-blue pool, both of which reinforce the feeling of calm and nurturing that is inherent to Kupferquelle.

For business delegations, two modern conference rooms are available for hire, both of which can be adapted to accommodate various types of conferences.

The resort is located on five hectares of private land, abutting on natural bushveld to the south. Animals including turtles, families of mongoose and countless birds have made their homes in this safe environment.

The special appeal of the Kupferquelle Resort is its proximity to Tsumeb, which is a mere stone’s throw away, yet guests feel they have stepped off the beaten track and can relax in quiet, tranquil surroundings.

tsumeb Copper mining brought its ups and downs to the town of Tsumeb, at some stage described as ‘little Joburg’ – a not too positive comparison, since it wasn’t exactly a subtly veiled comparison to the settlers’ mentality of booze, crime and general debauchery.

Today, the mining history of the town is amplified by the De Wet Shaft – the so-called Grand Old Lady of Namibian copper mining over the past century. The shaft is not used, but its towering presence, which can be seen from wherever you are in town, is a constant reminder of a bustling past. TNN

THINGS TO DO IN AND AROUND TSUMEB The Tsumeb Museum was founded in April 1975 by the fondly remembered Ms Ilse Schatz, and she made it her loving and passionate mission to find, restore and display the most interesting and captivating relics of the town’s multi-layered past. It houses the Ethnology Room, with displays of ancient Bushman artefacts, as well as exhibits that provide a closer look at the Owambo, Herero, Himba, and white settlers. In the Khorab Room, visitors will be rite Meteo astounded to encounter extremely well-maintained Hoba relics left by German and Union of South Africa troops.

The biggest attraction, however, is still the renovated canons and ammunition boxes that were retrieved over the years from the murky depths of Otjikoto Lake. The ammunition was dumped in the lake by retreating German soldiers during the First World War. They were clearly not in the mood to hand the arsenal over to the enemy. To top your visit to the museum, the mineral display room is where anyone with a sense of beauty could linger for hours.

Another cultural centre worth popping into is the Arts and Crafts Centre, where local people create and display a number of beautiful, humorous and earthy home-made products.

Various restaurants, coffee shops, hotels and a stunning resort are an added bonus to your Tsumeb visit. For a start there is the Etosha Café, which is very much part of this town’s historical make-up. Likewise, the Minen Hotel is a historic accommodation establishment and restaurant that was a well-frequented social hub patronised by clientele from all works of life. While it is now in a somewhat rundown state, a quick visit to the Minen unquestionably evokes Tsumeb’s colourful past.

At Café Greenhill, situated at the heart of the historical birthplace of Tsumeb, you can enjoy a savoury meal or a sweet treat, and even cocktails. The building that houses Café Greenhill was built in 1908 and originally served as a maintenance shed for the mine. It has retained its early building style and charm.

Needless to say, comfort and pleasure are never far removed. At the Kupferquelle Resort, beautiful rooms, a well-run restaurant, shaded camping spots and an Olympicsize swimming pool ensure a comfortable few nights while you’re exploring the town and attractions in the surroundings.

Baobab tree

close to Tsin

tsabis

Meet ‘Uncle’ Oom Chris Ayres One man in town who carries Tsumeb’s history well and truly in his mind and heart, is Oom Chris. Passionate about Tsumeb’s rainbow-coloured past, he has dedicated years of his life to keep the story of Tsumeb alive. The most fun part is the ‘train’ ride offered by Oom Chris. He hooks his beloved golden-oldie tractor to two converted carts devised from the front end of scavenged and renovated Volkswagen beetles.

In this once-in-a-lifetime ride around the town, you will learn everything there is to know about it.

Hoba This is the largest meteorite ever discovered. The Hoba Meteorite weighs around 60 tonnes, is almost three metres long, and up to one metre thick. Scientifically the meteorite is termed an ataxite high in nickel content. It is well worth a visit.

Caves The Ghaub Caves are the second-largest series of underground caves in Namibia. But, as the owners caution, a visit here is not for the faint-hearted. André and Marlize Compion also offer guest rooms and campsites to visitors.

They say most of the feedback they receive from guests is that after the adrenaline rush of the caves, the guest farm offers immense ‘peace and tranquillity’. And just because nature here is bountiful, more than 42 tree species can be seen on this farm alone.

The baobab A specimen of one of Africa’s super trees, the baobab, grows close to Tsintsabis about 50 km north-east of Tsumeb. This baobab is unique in that there is much speculation on how it ended up growing there. The next baobab is about 160 km to the north of this magnificent 1 000-year-old specimen.

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SUMMER 2012/3

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www.tala.com.na Available at Namcrafts in Independence Avenue, Tel +264 (0)61 250342 For fine art prints & image library contact: elmarie@mac.com.na, Cell +264 (0)81 277 3334

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TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SUMMER 2012/3

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Ameib Guest Farm ameib@erongosafaris.com

A renowned guest farm within the Erongo Mountain Rhino Sanctuary Within the sanctuary elephant, black rhinoceros, leopard, brown hyaena, giraffe and many other species occur, amongst them the endemic black-faced impala, Hartmann's zebra and Damara dik-dik. There is abundant bird life at Ameib, including the black eagle, peregrine falcon and several endemic species such as Hartlaub's francolin and Monteiro's hornbill.

Visit the famous Bull’s Party rock formations and Philipp’s Cave with its well-known rock paintings.Accommodation is in 11 en-suite double rooms and a camping site.

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info@staytoday.com.na | 081 206 1688 | 061 289 1627 TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SUMMER 2012/3

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Photo courtesy of: Paolo Schneider

Namibia. Wild at heart.

An untamed wilderness that will always leave you spoilt for choice.

Mother Nature is waiting for you.

NAMIBIA – Head office GERMANY Channel Life Building, 1st floor Schillerstrasse 42 – 44, D – 60313 Post Street Mall Frankfurt am Main, Private Bag 13244, Windhoek Tel: +49 69 1337 360 Tel: +264 61 2906 000 Fax: +49 69 1337 3615 Fax: +264 61 254 848 Email: info@namibia-tourism.com Email: info@namibiatourism.com.na www.namibia-tourism.com www.namibiatourism.com.na 86 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM

SOUTH AFRICA Cape Town Ground floor, The Pinnacle Burg Street, P O. Box 739 Tel: +27 21 4223 298 Fax: +27 21 422 5132 Email: namibia@saol.com

www.namibiatourism.com.na