Navarre, a unique destination
la ZONa media navarra destino ĂšniCo | 1
© government of navarre department of economic development directorate general of tourism and trade tourism marketing service 1st edition – february 2019 written by: heda Comunicación Cover photo: gaintza (g. arrugaeta) dl/lg na 368-2019
ref. C203
Printed on recycled paper
Plazaola rail trail 2 | navarra destino ÚniCo la ZONa media
You choose; we will win you over Navarre is a unique land of tracks, pathways and stunning views; an array of villages, farmhouses, landscapes, traditions and people. everything is at your fingertips. Just 100 kilometres as the crow flies separate the high peaks of the Pyrenees from the lunar landscapes of the Bardenas reales natural Park. The diversity and contrast of Navarre makes it a paradise for all types of traveller. Culture lovers will be enraptured by its artistic heritage and everything that has sprung up around the Way of St James over the years; those with more curious minds will enjoy the store of learning and customs of its people; adventurers will discover peaceful villages and locations where they can lose themselves or do all kinds of sport; in Pamplona, the community’s capital,
urbanites will ďŹ nd a green city which is home to great treasures, not to mention a world famous festival, San Fermin; trekkers can choose between the green hills of the Pyrenees and the wide open spaces of the Middle Zone or the Ribera region; and gourmets will want the taste of the authentic local cuisine to linger in their mouths for ever. If you are one of those travellers or all of them at the same time, we invite you to live your own experience. And remember, Navarre is committed to sustainable tourism! It is possible to discover nature while taking care of it, pass through without leaving a trace, take in culture and traditions while helping to preserve them, and buy local products to help keep the places you visit alive. Navarre, a unique destination
Bardenas reales 3
Baztan route
Bera
Urdazubi/Urdax
Lesaka
FRANCIA
BERTIZARANA VALLE DEL BAZTAN NA-121-B NA-121-A
GIPUZKOA
Elizondo
Doneztebe/Santesteban
Leitza
French route (via Orreaga/Roncesvalles)
Luzaide/ Valcarlos
NA-170
NA-135
Orreaga/Roncesvalles
Pantano de Irabia
NA-138
Embalse de Eugi
Lekunberri
Selva de Irati
Lintzoain (Erro)
A-15
NA-140
NA-135
LARRA-BELAGUA
Garralda Irurtzun
Etxarri-Aranatz
ULTZAMA
Zubiri
NA-121-A
NA-140
A-10
Ochagavía/ Otsagabia
VALLE DE AEZKOA
AP-68
ALTSASU/ALSASUA
Garaioa
NA-135
NA-240-A
Isaba/Izaba
Olazti/Olazagutía Roncal
Embalse de Itoiz
NA-120
PAMPLONA/IRUÑA
HUESCA
Aoiz/Agoitz NA-178
NA-718
ALAVA
A-12
SIERRA DE LOKIZ
NA-214 NA-121
Embalse de Alloz
Ayegui
Burgui
A-21
Puente la Reina/Gares
Villatuerta
Navascués
NA-150
ESTELLALIZARRA
Lumbier NA-121
Embalse de Yesa
Aibar/Oibar Arróniz Los Arcos
A-12
Artajona Allo
Larraga
SANGÜESA/ ZANGOZA
NA-132
San Martín de Unx Cáseda
TAFALLA
Viana Sesma
Olite/Erriberri
Lerín
French route (via Somport)
AP-68
Lodosa
LA RIOJA
Cárcar Sartaguda
NA-121
Andosilla
Falces
San Adrián
NA-115
Carcastillo Caparroso
Peralta
Azagra
Funes
Marcilla
ZARAGOZA
Villafranca NA-134 NA-121
Milagro
Cadreita Valtierra Arguedas
BARDENAS REALES
NA-113
Corella
Fitero
TUDELA
Cintruénigo
Cabanillas
Murchante
Fustiñana
NA-113
Cascante
Ribaforada
NA-126
Ablitas A-12 AP-68
4
Buñuel Cortes
Ebro Route
Cave of zugarramurdi
Baztan, Bidasoa, Urdazubi/Urdax, zugarramurdi
Green, how I love you green in the valleys nearest to the Bay of Biscay, everything is green. lush nature gives way to enchanted villages and stories of smugglers and witches’ covens. this is the navarre with a mild climate, the land of watermills and brooks, home to noblemen and palaces, where the Basque language is very much alive. want to discover it? 5
eXPerieNce the magic of witChes and Covens shrouded in a veil of mystery which dates back to the 17th century, Zugarramurdi receives you with its famous cave, a magical place where covens were held and which the movie director alex de la Iglesia immortalised in his film “Witching & Bitching”. the best way to learn about the history of this magical village and its traditions, and get a better understanding of why its population was persecuted by the inquisition is to visit the witch museum in what used to be the old local hospital, very close to the caves.
Cave of zugarramurdi ▲
Urdazubi/Urdax / Caves of ikaburu ▼
on the trail of SmUgglerS separated from the Baztan valley by the otsondo pass stands the small town of Urdazubi/Urdax, on the border with france. a peaceful stroll through its streets will reveal to you its mediaeval stone bridges, its houses emblazoned with coats of arms, the 9th-century monastery of san salvador and a mill which dates from the 1700s. 6 | atlaNtic PyreNeeS
the caves of ikaburu, a universe of stalactites and stalagmites which started to take shape 14,000 years ago, are worthy of special mention. and at the caves, history lovers can set off on the smugglers’ trail.
Baztan, land of noBlemen and Secret FOreStS in the Baztan valley, the peaks of the Pyrenees soften to expose farmhouses and barns scattered over the hillsides. the best views of the area are from the Baztan viewpoint in ziga or from the otsondo pass, at an altitude of 600 m. after taking in the valley in general, it’s time to venture into its villages. The first thing you will notice is the abundance of palaces and grand houses in pinkish stone with big balconies, the remnants of the fortunes amassed by noblemen and indianos (those who returned after making their fortunes in latin america). Casa Jaureguizar in arraioz, the Cabo de Armería palaces of Jarola and Ascoa in elbete, and the arizkunenea palace and Casa Puriosenea in elizondo are particularly worth seeing. the richness of the local architecture is perfectly set off by the splendour of the landscape. redolent woods, megalithic monuments, caves and characters from mythology are some of the allures awaiting you which have served as a source of inspiration for all kinds of artists. the successful Baztan trilogy by dolores redondo was set in this mysterious valley.
elizondo
▼
ziga
if you are visiting the area in July, don’t miss the Baztandarren Biltzarra, the valley’s feast of brotherhood, in elizondo. and try the famous chocolate with hazelnuts any time of the year! atlaNtic PyreNeeS | 7
the Bidasoa and its PeaceFUl valleyS the Bidasoa river, a salmon river which blends naturally into the forever green hillsides dotted with well-tended hamlets constructed in stone and wood with colourful balconies, passes through the regata del Bidasoa area. the best advice is to enjoy its rural architecture and natural landscapes at your leisure. to the northwest of regata, the cinco villas/Bortziriak district is an area of old ironworks and illustrious residents. the musts on the list of places to visit has to include Casa itzea in Bera, home to the Baroja family, the Parish Church of san martín de tours (16th century) and the Kasherna or zabaleta tower in lesaka, the Hermitage of San Juan Bautista in igantzi, the stelae in the atrium of the Church of la asunción in etxalar and the village’s famous pigeon hides, which draw crowds of hunters during the hunting season. don’t leave the area without visiting the malerreka district, with the elegant village of doneztebe/Santesteban and the nearby Jauregia tower in donamaria. leave your stress behind in the reservoirs of leurtza and if you like more ancestral traditions, be sure to go to the rural carnivals in ituren, Zubieta, Bera and lesaka. your stay will become an utter pleasure if you try some of the local cuisine: trout, salmon, beef and, in season, wild mushrooms, cider and game.
▼
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ituren, zanpantzar
Bertiz natural Park ▲
seÑorio de Bertiz and the Bidasoa rail trail, aBSOlUte mUStS one place on the banks of the Bidasoa that you simply must not miss is Señorío de Bertiz, a 2,000-hectare natural Park with a beautiful historical-artistic garden and a nature interpretation Centre. another trip to recommend: the Bidasoa rail trail, which makes use of the route of an old railway line and forms part of eurovelo 1, a major cycling route which runs all the way down europe’s atlantic coastline. Bidasoa rail trail ▼
sierra de aralar, leitzaran, Ultzama, sakana y sierras de Urbasa y andía
In the heart of Navarre’s little Switzerland enchanting landscapes, Basque, an ancient language which is still very much alive in this area, megalithic remains, trails and quaint villages erected amidst rivers, meadows and woodland are some of the joys awaiting you. shall we begin? sierra de Urbasa PiriNeOS atlÁNticOS navarra esenCial | 9
aralar, the sierra of hidden treaSUreS the road up to the sierra de aralar starts in lekunberri, a beautiful village whose stone houses are distributed around the Church of San Juan Bautista (14th century). one of the most interesting things you can do here is discover the natural environment ▲ astitz, cave of mendukilo on the Plazaola rail trail, the route of the old railway line that used to join Pamplona and donostia-san sebastián and which now can be explored on foot or by bike. from lekunberri, you can visit two of the must-see places in the area. The first, the Sanctuary of San miguel de aralar, a magical place with a history spanning more than a thousand years and home to one of the most valuable mediaeval enamelled altarpieces in the world. make the most of the visit to explore some of the dolmen routes which start near the sanctuary. the second trip on the list is the cave of mendukilo, near astitz; a chance to discover the hidden heart of aralar and wander through its amazing chambers, full of stalactites and stalagmites. to get your strength back, you can go to one of the local cider houses and try the typical meal in which rib-eye steak is king and the cider you serve yourself straight from the barrel is queen. and be sure to try the most typical local product: ewes’ cheese, which belongs to the idiazábal designation of origin. 10 | aralar, leitZaraN, UltZama, SaKaNa, UrBaSa aNd aNdÍa
▲ sanctuary of san miguel de aralar
the Paradise WalKerS dream of in the leitzaran valleys, the intense green of the landscape creeps in to form part of every one of its beautiful villages. the largest, leitza, has a beautiful arcaded church in bluish grey stone in honour of san miguel and a well-maintained historical centre. in these parts, leitza is rapidly associated with rural sports and is the home of great pelota players and harrijasotzailes (stone lifters). in recent years, the village has drawn great interest after appearing in the hit movie “Spanish Affair”. the valley is a paradise for hikers, with enchanted landscapes like leitzalarrea, a wood where it is easy to conjure up the shadows of witches or lamias amidst the spectacular fir trees of Izaieta; or routes in Uitzi, gorriti, goizueta and arano.
Ultzama, the idyllic valley with something for everyone Who said that peace and quiet were at odds with a packed agenda? In the Ultzama valley, 25 km from Pamplona, you can relax as you hike, play golf, ride horses, venture deep into age-old forests or enjoy a pot of junket. The capital of the valley is Larraintzar and, whilst all the beautiful villages in the area with their flower-strewn houses are well worth a leisurely visit, if you are short on time, go to Eltso-Gerendiain and Guelbenzu to enjoy the views they offer; stroll through the streets of Eltzaburu, Arraitz and Iraitzoz, or visit the church in Urritzola-Galain and the baptismal fonts in Ilarregi and Larraintzar.
Tradition and nature come together
The list of idyllic walks is long, but if you can only choose one, take the one through the Orgi forest with its ancient trees and landscapes that served as the backdrop for the film “Robin and Marian”. To the delight of mushroom gathering fans, the same area is also home to the Ultzama mycological park. On Shrove Tuesday, Lantz holds its rural carnival, in which mythical characters take to the streets.
Between the Sierra de Aralar and the Sierras de Urbasa and Andía lies the Sakana valley, a region bathed by the Arakil river and surrounded by spectacular mountains full of beech and oak woods, such as Beriain-San Donato or La Trinidad.
▼ Ultzama valley
The most notable villages include Altsasu/Alsasua (where the Momotxorros invade the streets on Shrove Tuesday), Irurtzun and Olazti/Olazagutía, the more industrial localities; Etxarri-Aranatz, Uharte-Arakil, Bakaiku, Iturmendi and Urdiain, all good places from which to set off on walks to the different natural beauty spots in the area.
▲ Arrarats
Junket ▲
▼ Altsasu/Alsasua, carnival
▲
Mount Beriain-San Donato
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▲ sierra de Urbasa
eNdleSS vieWS from UrBasa the sierra de Urbasa and sierra de andía form a large natural Park in the west of navarre with beautiful meadows, lush beech forests and spectacular views. the natural Park of Urbasa-andía can be entered via the lizarraga pass or from olazti/olazagutía. Before starting your visit, it is advisable to stop off at the information Centre and ask about the natural treasures which can be enjoyed in the area. sierra de Urbasa ▲ 12 | aralar, leitZaraN, UltZama, SaKaNa, UrBaSa aNd aNdÍa
valle de aezkoa, selva de irati, valle de salazar, valle de roncal y Belagua
From forest to heaven: the highest Navarrese Pyrenees navarre’s eastern Pyrenees is an area of woodland, mountain peaks and villages with cobbled streets. everything there says silence, sky, freedom, moments to be savoured by the warmth of large open fireplaces or in the company of the inhabitants of the small villages. each valley has natural surprises in store, all to do with the green that engulfs everything and the rivers and brooks which bring it to life. Belagua la ZONa media navarra destino ÚniCo | 13
the higheSt villageS in navarre the aezkoa valley is a huge green carpet formed by forests and grasslands, dotted with caves, dolmens, hermitages and barns. the valley is home to the highest village in navarre, abaurregaina/abaurrea alta, with its “Stelae garden”, consisting of a score of disc-shaped stelae in their original positions and orientation. 15 of the 22 granaries still standing in navarre can be found scattered around the beautiful villages of aezkoa. garaioa, aribe, garralda, aria, hiriberri/villanueva de aezkoa, orbara, orbaizeta, abaurregaina/abaurrea alta and abaurrepea/ abaurrea Baja are the nine small villages which make up this valley, which is also home to a spot not to be missed: the Orbaizeta arms factory. in the heart of the woods, very close to the french border stand the ruins of the royal arms and munitions factory of orbaizeta. in the 18th and 19th centuries, it supplied the army with weapons and ammunition, and the old furnaces and the canalisation of the legartza river are still there to be seen. the factory, declared of cultural interest, is being subjected to an ambitious restoration project.
14 | eaSterN PyreNeeS
abaurrepea/abaurrea Baja ▲ izal, granary ▼
hiriberri/villanueva de aezkoa ▼
the irati forest: PUre NatUre Ernest Hemingway wrote that “the closest thing to heaven or beyond could be those days we spent together in the irati”. the irati forest is one of the largest forests in europe and is unforgettable for its beauty. in the autumn, it takes on yellow and ochre tones to form a spectacular image which sometimes brings us the surprising company of wild animals, because the irati is home to red deer, roe deer, foxes, wild boar and a multitude of birds. Europe’s second largest beech-fir forest occupies 17,000 hectares in the north of the aezkoa and salazar valleys. among the best walks it has to offer, try the one to the irabia reservoir or the Erreka-Idorra trail, an easy walk on which you can find out how the resources the forest supplied were used to produce masts, oars, furniture and charcoal. mythical summits in the irati area include the roman tower of Urkulu, close to which are the megalithic site of azpegi and Pico de Ori. hiking is very popular in this part of navarre and when the snow begins to fall, it is time for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.
irati forest
▲
irati forest
eaSterN PyreNeeS | 15
salazar: the valley that lOOKS tOWardS the irati FOreSt Ochagavía, with its cobbled streets, stone houses and mediaeval bridge, receives visitors so they can feel what it is like to live in a village surrounded by high peaks and a huge forest. Orhipean, a festival in which everyone in the village dresses as people did a hundred years ago and demonstrate the traditional trades of the Pyrenees, is held here at the end of august. very close to ochagavía stands the romanesque hermitage of la virgen de muskilda, located at a spot with beautiful views of abodi and the Pyrenean peaks. inside, there is a gothic carving of the virgin with Child. every 8th of september for more than 300 years, the village dancers of ochagavía have performed alongside the sanctuary some of the most emblematic and ancient dances of navarre, led by El Bobo, a unique character wearing a harlequin-like costume. the course of the salazar river takes you to the beautiful villages of Salazar: Ezcároz, the capital of the valley, Jaurrieta, its highest village, oronz, esparza, igal, izal and Uscarrés. ▼ ochagavía
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ronCal ideNtity the roncal valley invites visitors to take peaceful walks or follow paths up to summits like mesa de los tres reyes, the highest in navarre. the tribute of the three Cows, a festival of brotherhood between the inhabitants of roncal and Béarn, neighbours from opposite sides of the Pyrenees is held every 13th of July very close to the road that leads to france, at the stone of san martín. the valley consists of the villages of Burgui, vidángoz, garde, roncal, Urzainqui, isaba and Uztárroz. every spring Burgui holds timber rafting day, a festival which pays tribute to the last timber rafters who transported wood down the river. in addition to visiting the rafting museum, you should also take the “Burgui, village of trades” walk, the Burgui gorge and its vulture viewpoint.
of the eastern Pyrenees. as well as seeing the Church of San Cipriano and the “House of memory”, in isaba you can take walks which range from the simple climb to the hermitage of idoia to the path to the Belabarze waterfall or Peña ezcaurre. in Uztárroz, you can visit the Cheese and transhumance museum, a tribute to pastoral life and cheese with the roncal designation of origin. roncal cheese is one of the culinary gems of the valley, which is also known for its exquisite “shepherds’ breadcrumbs” and a host of dishes based on the wild mushrooms found both in roncal and the neighbouring salazar valley. ▼ Roncal cheese and “shepherds’ breadcrumbs”
the village of roncal is worth a visit just to walk its beautiful cobbled streets, which lead to the house of the tenor Julián Gayarre, now a museum, and the nature interpretation Centre. in the village cemetery stands Julián Gayarre’s mausoleum, the work of mariano Benlliure.
Burgui, timber rafting day
isaba is the northernmost village in the valley, the most populated place in the area and one of the main tourist centres eaSterN PyreNeeS | 17
BelagUa valley, high PyreNeeS Belagua is a unique valley in navarra, formed thousands of years ago by one of the tongues of ice coming down from the larra glacier. at the highest point of Belagua, the larra nature reserve is one of the most impressive karst landscapes in europe. some parts of it are protected due to their great ecological value. nature activities, ranging from hiking, canyoning and climbing to potholing and paragliding, are performed in Belagua throughout the year. in winter, you can enjoy cross-country skiing and snowshoeing at the larra-Belagua ski resort.
Belagua, cross-country skiing ▲ isaba ▼
18 | eaSterN PyreNeeS
▼ zemeto Path/trail
luzaide/valcarlos, orreaga/roncesvalles, erro, eugi, zubiri, arre
The doorway to the Way of St James The entrance of the Way of St James in navarre is a surprising swing of emotions and landscapes: green mountains and history; villages straddling the route; and small gems near reservoirs and rivers, like a former arms factory or one of the most immortalised hermitages of them all. orreaga/roncesvalles la ZONa media navarra destino ĂšniCo | 19
laNd OF BaNditS, shePherds, warriors and Pilgrims luzaide/valcarlos is where the french route of the way of st James enters Navarre. It is a typical Pyrenean border village in which you should not miss the Church of santiago apóstol, rebuilt between the 18th and 19th centuries; the pilgrim monument, a tribute by the sculptor Jorge Oteiza; and its dances of the Bolantes ▲ striking, ancestral dances, the dances of the Bolantes, which you can see on easter sunday. don’t miss the landscape around the winding road up to the ibañeta pass. this was the site of the epic battle of roncesvalles, in which Charlemagne’s troops, led by roland, were defeated by the Vascons, a historical event recounted in the “Chanson de roland”. down to orreaga / roncesvalles ▼
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orreaga/ronCesvalles, meetiNg OF cUltUreS hidden between mountains, Orreaga/roncesvalles was and still is a shelter for walkers and an important religious centre housing gems of great artistic value. among its buildings stands the Collegiate Church of santa maría, an old pilgrims’ hospital in which rest the remains of King sancho vii, the strong. it is an excellent example of mediaeval architecture with a 17th-century cloister and a beautiful gothic image of the virgin in silver. next to the Collegiate Church, the museum is home to interesting silver exhibits, such as miramamolin’s emerald, which, according to tradition, sancho vii the strong took from the arab king at the battle of navas de tolosa; or charlemagne’s “chess set”, a silver reliquary which, according to legend, belonged to the holy roman emperor. walk just a few metres and you will come across the chapel of el santo espíritu or charlemagne’s Silo, which dates from the 12th century and is believed to have been built at the spot where roland split a rock with his sword after being defeated at the Battle of roncesvalles. orreaga/roncesvalles, Collegiate Church of santa maría ▼
orreaga/roncesvalles 21
the Charm of the Pyrenean rOad villageS The Way of St James progresses through auritz/Burguete, a village set out along the road consisting of farmhouses with steep gable and hip roofs. notice the channels which line the road to collect the water from the snow that falls in winter. take the opportunity to visit the Church of san nicolás de Bari next to the town hall and the beautiful cemetery with stelae, and admire the scenery, full of dolmens, which so fascinated the american writer ernest hemingway. the next stop is aurizberri/espinal, a quaint one-street village with a good number of funerary stelae. after passing the alto de Mezkiritz, you can spend some time in the fields of Sorogain. this is a beautiful spot with picnic areas, dolmens and fountains where traditional cattle branding is still practised. in no time, you are in lintzoain, with its romanesque church, and then erro, to one side of the broad plain on which esnotz and orondriz stand, the latter with a beautiful mediaeval bridge alongside the remains of an old mill.
amidst reservoirs and 18th-ceNtUry WeaPONS Before heading to Pamplona, we recommend you turn off the track and visit eugi, a small village with a large reservoir at its feet which you can skirt along a path which takes an hour and a half to walk and leads to another precious forest, the beech forest of Quinto real. here lie the ruins of an 18th-century arms factory; find out about its history at the Olondo Interpretation Centre.
22 | lUZaide/valcarlOS, Orreaga/rONceSvalleS, errO, eUgi, ZUBiri, arre
eugi arms factory ▲
the Bridge that CUre raBies return to the initial route and stop off in zubiri, a road village whose chief attraction is the mediaeval bridge across the river. why? tradition has it that it has the power to cure rabies.
a FOrmer hOSPital overlooKing the river Before entering Pamplona, you pass through arre, which boasts another pearl on the Way of St James: the old pilgrims’ hospital of la trinidad de arre, which preserves romanesque features. Nearby stands a historical building which was first a flour mill, then a fulling mill or cloth factory and is now the arga river Park museum and awareness Centre.
Pamplona and district
A city with a lot of life Pamplona is a modern, welcoming city brimming with life. Beyond the famous san fermĂn festival, its tourist attractions, as varied as they are interesting, and its central geographic location make it the ideal place from which to set off on trips to discover the diversity of the region at your leisure. strolling along the top of its city walls, walking the Way of St James, which crosses the city from north to south, or wandering through its streets and squares will open up the past and present of the capital of navarre to you. Pamplona la ZONa media navarra destino ĂšniCo | 23
the Old tOWN, the toUrist ePiCentre a good starting point is the bullring, where a bust of hemingway, the nobel laureate who made the san fermín festival famous worldwide, stands. from there, you can enter the old town on la ronda del Obispo Barbazán, a pretty walk along the top of part of the city’s fortifications. If you want to ▲ Pamplona, Cathedral of santa maría find out about the history of the walls, visit the Pamplona Fortification Interpretation Centre. at the end of la ronda, you enter one of the city’s most picturesque spots, el caballo Blanco, a viewpoint with a beautiful panoramic view over the arga river and the rochapea and Chantrea neighbourhoods. head for the cathedral of Santa maría, built between the 12th and 15th centuries, which conceals one of europe’s most beautiful gothic cloisters behind its neoclassical façade. then continue on to the City hall, from which the chupinazo, the rocket which marks the start of the san fermín festival, is launched every 6th of July. the building has a magnificent, colourful façade which combines Baroque and neoclassical styles. ▲ Pamplona, Caballo Blanco 24 | PamPlONa aNd diStrict
the route of the San Fermín bullruns starts about 300 metres from the City hall on Cuesta de santo domingo, near the museum of Navarre. the route the bulls follow will take you through Plaza Consistorial and along Calle mercaderes and Calle estafeta. at the end of this last street, take a left at the back of teatro gayarre and enter Plaza del castillo, one of the city’s most emblematic squares, surrounded by colourful buildings, lively cafe terraces and the Palace of navarre. if you have time, wander through the streets of the old town and discover the gothic fortresses-cum-churches of San Nicholás and San cernin or palaces like Palacio del condestable or the royal and general
Pamplona, pinchos ▲
archive of Navarre. take the opportunity to spend some time in the city’s bars and restaurants, where you will have the chance to enjoy some of the tasty food navarre has to offer. and be sure not to miss out on the delicious pinchos (bar snacks). ▼ Pamplona, monument to the running of the Bulls
the Chupinazo 25
greeN City
the distriCt via itS river
Pamplona is one of the cities with the largest amount of green areas per inhabitant in all spain, so choosing one of its parks to relax in is a great idea. next to the Baluarte auditorium, the citadel, the city’s 280,000 square metre green lung, is considered the finest exponent of military architecture from the Spanish Renaissance. this green space, ideal for sports activities, also hosts exhibitions and cultural events.
for some years now, the green map of Pamplona has had a protagonist all of its own: the arga river. the arga river Park is a natural path which offers a different perspective on the city and hides little gems, like the bridge of la magdalena (12th century), the bridge of san Pedro (the oldest in the city), the bridge of la rochapea or Curtidores and the Caparroso mill. Both the river Park and the Way of St James run alongside the gardens of La magdalena, where some of the vegetables which play such an important role in navarrese cuisine are grown.
the taconera park is a beautiful versailles-esque park with deer, ducks, pheasants, goats, swans and peacocks in its old moats. you can also visit the crescent-shaped media luna park, one of Pamplona’s oldest and home to the Pamplona Fortification Interpretation Centre. alongside the hospital district, yamaguchi park has all the features of a traditional Japanese garden. On the university campuses, with their large green fields and leafy trees, you will find ideal places for walking or running. You can also visit the museum of the University of Navarra on the campus of the university of the same name.
near zizur mayor, in gazólaz, stands one of the best examples of an arcaded church in navarre, the romanesque Church of nuestra Señora de la Purificación. And in the village of Alzuza, the Oteiza museum showcases the work of the well-known guipuzcoan sculptor.
▲
▼ Pamplona, vuelta del Castillo
But the arga river Park also extends to other localities around Pamplona like sorauren, villava, Burlada, Barañáin and zizur mayor. whether you travel it on foot or by bike, you will get to see the bridges of sorauren and la trinidad de arre, the san andrés mill, the villava fulling mill, the old bridge of Burlada and the restored mediaeval bridge of arazuri, among other tourist attractions.
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gazólaz, Church of nuestra señora de la Purificación
Aoiz, Lumbier, SangĂźesa, Javier, Leyre
Indelible traces of history
at the foot of the eastern Pyrenees lies a land marked by its past as the border of the mediaeval kingdom and the rich heritage afforded by the way of St James. monastery of leyre PamPlONa la ZONa y cOmarca media navarra esenCial | 27
the favoUrite gorge of the griFFON vUltUre lumbier is a small town situated beneath the sierra de leire with steep streets to remind you how close it is to the Pyrenees and houses with coats of arms and carved doors. the town hall, a renaissance building dating from the 15th century, is in Calle mayor. the lumbier gorge is a spectacular cleft in the rock through which the irati train used to run. it is 2.6 km long and don’t miss the griffon vultures hiding in the crevices on the gorge’s cliff faces. very nearby is the arbaiun gorge, another wonderful place to visit. ▼ lumbier gorge ▲ arbaiun gorge
aoiz, a vieWPOiNt over the irati river 28 km from Pamplona is aoiz, a small town with some true natural and artistic treasures. among its most prized gems, the four-arched romanesque bridge Bidelepu; the Church of san miguel and the houses emblazoned with coats of arms in the historic centre. discover the beautiful natural scenery in the area on the signposted walks to places as spectacular as the viewpoint over the irati river, the hermitage of san román, the ice house or the itoiz reservoir. if you have a sweet tooth, don’t forget to ask for the delicious, local dessert, costrada de Aoiz. 28 | aOiZ, lUmBier, SaNgÜeSa, Javier, leyre
an enthralling cUltUral legacy a hospitable border town, Sangüesa can boast of having been one of the most important places on the Way of St James from somport in the middle ages. evidence of the splendour of those days are its civil buildings, churches and convents. its chief artistic attraction is the Church of santa maría, declared a national monument in 1889. the doorway, built in the 12th century and based on the Last Judgement, is one of the finest treasures of Navarrese mediaeval art. Carry on along Calle mayor and discover the monumental palaces of añués and iñiguez-abarca, the town hall and the vallesantoro palace, now the local Culture Centre. wander through the historic centre and find the convents of El Carmen and San francisco de asís (13th century), and the Churches of san salvador and santiago. make the most of your visit to the town and try the local pochas beans, a delicious pulse eaten while fresh. if you like traditions, go on the 6th of January to see the Auto Sacramental of the magi (dramatic representation), one of only five still performed in spain. ▲
sangüesa, Church of santa maría
▲ Javier, the castle
a Castle worthy of the PatrON SaiNt OF Navarre the silhouette of the castle of Javier, outlining its crenellated towers, seduces most people on sight, inviting you to enter to see where saint francis Xavier, one of history’s most universal missionaries and patron saint of navarre, was born and lived. although the castle was partially destroyed in 1516, it has since been reconstructed, the latest work being carried out in 2006. it is well worth crossing the drawbridge to enter its world of towers, dungeons, loopholes and elegant chambers. In early March, the area around the castle fills with life on the occasion of the popular pilgrimages known as Javieradas. aOiZ, lUmBier, SaNgÜeSa, Javier, leyre | 29
the Peace aNd SereNity of the monastery of leyre to visit the monastery of leyre is to immerse yourself in an atmosphere of absolute peace and serenity, which perhaps reaches its maximum expression if you are lucky enough to hear the gregorian chants the monks render during services. Refuge of kings and bishops, and the scene of official celebrations, its privileged location, surrounded by nature, will not leave you indifferent, and neither will the magnificent treasures it guards: an 11th-century crypt, the “Porta Speciosa”, a perfect Romanesque doorway from the 12th century, or the pantheon of the first monarchs of Navarre. monastery of leyre, crypt ▼
gallipienzo ▲
sCanning the hOriZON the location of the sangüesa district, on the border with the Kingdom of aragon, led to the construction of defensive villas on hilltops which now serve as unique vantage points from which to scan the horizon. if you take a stroll through the narrow cobbled streets of aibar, you will discover a beautiful mediaeval village with no lack of large archways, coats of arms, stately buildings and stone houses, in the midst of which stands the romanesque Church of san Pedro. gallipienzo, perched at a high point above the aragon river, is another of the most charming mediaeval villages in navarre. Be prepared to climb its steep streets to reach the remains of the ancient castle and its two churches, san Pedro and san salvador, the latter with a romanesque crypt. there are breath-taking views of the aragón river and the Kaparreta nature reserve to be had from the Bird observatory, and you can go on to visit the santa Criz archaeological site in eslava.
30 | aOiZ, lUmBier, SaNgÜeSa, Javier, leyre
middle zone
A history book
olite, the castle
the middle zone is an open invitation to discover romanesque navarre, the splendour of its castles and mediaeval villages, its vineyards and wineries, or the Way of St James, which crosses it from east to west. la ZONa media navarra destino ĂšniCo | 31 31
a little Known rOmaNeSQUe valley very close to Pamplona, the silent valdorba valley hides ancient treasures. this peaceful rural valley is home to some thirty romanesque temples and trails for picking mushrooms and fungi, including its most prized culinary asset, the truffle, a product which is celebrated by a fair attended by prestigious chefs and hundreds of aficionados is held in december. in this small valley, you can visit gems like the iracheta granary, the crypt of the Church of orísoain and the hermitages of san Pedro ad víncula de echano and santo Cristo de Cataláin. valdorba valley ▼
olite, tower of the royal Palace ▲
the aPPle of carlOS iii the NOBle’s eye Olite is the ideal place to live out a fairy tale and a must for anyone visiting navarre. the royal Palace of Olite, the favourite residence of King Carlos iii the noble, transports visitors to the courtly life of those who enjoyed a zoo packed with exotic animals and beautiful gardens. declared a national monument in 1925, the palace can be visited throughout the year and is one of the stars of two of the
32 | middle ZONe
summer’s most attractive cultural events: the theatre Festival and the mediaeval Festival. olite is home to the Wine museum of navarre and the only national Parador in the community. wandering through the narrow streets is no less recommended than trying the delicious wines from one of the wineries in what is the wine capital of Navarre.
san martín de Unx, Church of san martín de tours ▲
rUral charm San martín de Unx is a small farming village where time seems to have come to a stop. a leisurely stroll through its mediaeval streets dotted with the houses of noblemen and the remains of its defensive wall is a real treat.
Ujué ▲
the mediaeval lOOKOUt Point Par eXCellenCe
of its monuments, don’t miss the romanesque church of San martín de tours, the early gothic hermitage of san miguel and the gothic Church of nuestra señora del Pópolo (14th century).
located on top of a hill in the east of navarre, Ujué is a spectacular viewpoint. The village’s name means “dove” (from the Basque word uxua) and refers to the beautiful legend which tells how a dove helped find where the Romanesque image of the virgin of Ujué was hidden.
are full of surprises, but the best is at the highest point of the village: the sanctuary-cum-fortress of Santa maría de Ujué and the 12th-century carving of the virgin, in whose honour one of navarre’s oldest and most moving marian pilgrimages is held.
don’t leave the village without tasting its famous rosé wine, in whose honour a festival is held on the first Sunday in June.
Our first tip for those who intend to enter the labyrinthic streets of this small mediaeval-style village is to wear comfortable shoes. its steep cobbled streets
the two great culinary specialties of the village are its “shepherds’ breadcrumbs” and garrapiñadas, made with almonds and sugar. middle ZONe | 33
hOme of Kings and PoPes artajona surprises visitors with its 11th-century mediaeval fortifications, known as El Cerco, which have provided the backdrop for numerous films. The narrow streets of artajona are dotted with palatial houses, once the abodes of monarchs, noblemen, knights, bishops and popes. it is worth walking up to the highest point of the fortifications to visit the restored sanctuary-fortress of san saturnino (13th century).other buildings of
interest include the gothic Church of san Pedro, the basilica of nuestra señora de Jerusalén and the Hermitage of San Bartolomé. on the outskirts are the dolmens of Portillo of eneriz and la mina, which are reached by a path which starts behind the cemetery. if you have time and want to know something about the village’s traditions, ask the locals what the “spade races” are and why the village’s bells are so special. Pitillas wetlands ▲ artajona, El Cerco ▼
following BirdS if you are looking for a haven of peace in nature, then you will find one at the Pitillas Wetlands Nature reserve. visit the observatory or walk the marked trails around the water to see the wealth of bird life that lives there all year round and the hundreds of birds that stop off on their migratory routes. loose yourself amidst the sounds of ducks, herons, storks, bitterns and eaglets; watch the birds flying over the reeds or swimming around; and enjoy the beauty of the sunset over the wetland.
34 | middle ZONe
eunate, Puente la reina, estella-lizarra, Urbasa, los arcos, viana
Viewpoints of nature and art
santa marĂa de eunate
whether you are a pilgrim or not, the last stretch of the Way of St James in navarre provides a pleasant journey which all visitors should discover. roman ruins, mediaeval bridges, roman churches and monasteries are some of the gems that adorn a landscape which combines vineyards and wheat fields with high mountain viewpoints. la ZONa media navarra destino ĂšniCo | 35 35
a mySteriOUS ChUrCh with a hUndred doors the best way to start this route is with a visit to the humble, solitary romanesque church of Santa maría de eunate, whose name means “one hundred doors” in Basque, in reference to the numerous arches that surround it. it is one of the most evocative and mysterious religious constructions on the entire route of the pilgrimage. the work of Knights templar? a hospital belonging to the order of st John? A funeral chapel built for a queen or noblewoman? Its octagonal floor plan, strange open-air cloister and imprecise origins make eunate a must for any visitor to the region. ▼ Church of santa maría de eunate
36 | eUNate, PUeNte la reiNa, eStella-liZarra, UrBaSa, lOS arcOS, viaNa
a Bridge cONNectiNg rOadS Puente la reina is a mediaeval town where the two main routes of the Way of St James, the one from orreaga/roncesvalles and the one from somport, meet. its chief treasure is its 11th-century bridge with seven semi-circular arches, one of the most beautiful and majestic exponents of romanesque architecture on the whole route. other monuments of interest include the Churches of El Crucifijo, Santiago and San Pedro. it is also worth visiting the pretty Plaza mena or Plaza mayor with its 18th-century arcade and making the most of your time in the town by trying its delicious piquillo peppers or locally grown vegetables.
▲ Piquillo peppers
if you have time, make a detour to mendigorría and the roman city of andelos to see its museum, the archaeological site and its finest feature: the water supply system. An interesting Roman festival is held at the end of June.
▲
Puente la reina, romanesque bridge
mendigorría, roman ruins of andelos 37
estella LA BELLA no sooner do you arrive in estella-lizarra or Estella la Bella (estella the Beautiful), as it was known in the 15th century, than you find the Church of El Santo Sepulcro, a mere foretaste of what awaits you in the monumental town with the largest number of stately houses and palaces in navarre. don’t miss the Palace of the monarchs, the only romanesque civil building still standing in navarre, the bridge of la Cárcel or the town’s mediaeval churches, like the Cistercian-style san Pedro de la rúa (13th century) or san miguel. stroll through the old town and enjoy its lively atmosphere and local culinary specialities, such as suckling pig or rocas del Puy, hazelnuts coated in chocolate. If you are there at the end of July, enjoy its mediaeval week and if it is september, the spectacular ancient music week; an absolute delight. ▼ estella, Church of el santo sepulcro
38 | eUNate, PUeNte la reiNa, eStella-liZarra, UrBaSa, lOS arcOS, viaNa
end your stay with two pearls which lie just a couple of kilometres from estellaLizarra, the magnificent Cistercian abbey of the monastery of irantzu, built between the 12th and 14th centuries, and the monastery of iratxe with its Plateresque cloister and herrerian-style tower.
▲ monastery of irantzu
in the midst of rOmaN mUSeS a few kilometres from estella-lizarra, the museum and archaeological site of villa de arellano allow you to relive navarre’s roman past. although its actual name is Aurelianum, it is also known as the “Villa of the muses”, due to the spectacular mosaic of the muses found there. walk among the rooms of what started out as an agricultural dwelling and went on to become a luxury residence in the 5th century. there you will discover a curious goblet depicted in ceramic, the fumarium ,where wine was artificially aged, and elegant mosaics which tell us of the goddess Cybele and her consort attis.
▲ monastery of iratxe villa of arellano ▼
estella-lizarra, san Pedro de la rúa eUNate, PUeNte la reiNa, eStella-liZarra, UrBaSa, lOS arcOS, viaNa | 39
symPhony of mONUmeNtS
▲ source of the Urederra river
UrBasa, Breathing NatUre after leaving the town of the ega river, it is time for an encounter with nature. the first place not to be missed is the source of the Urederra river*, which is accessed from the car park at the entrance to the village of Baquedano. a signposted, easyto-walk path leads you between waterfalls and numerous pools of turquoise water to the source. another place worth a visit is the Balcony of Pilate in the midst of the sierra de Urbasa, a viewpoint with breath-taking views. Before concluding your daily dose of nature, stop by at the interpretation
Area and find out how Urbasa’s shepherds used to live. the vasco Navarro rail trail, once travelled by the train which joined estella-lizarra and vitoria-gasteiz, is another way to discover the local landscape. it runs between plains of wheat, woodland, gorges and small villages.
* entry to the source of the Urederra river is limited and you need to make an online booking on the website www.turismo.navarra.es .
40 | eUNate, PUeNte la reiNa, eStella-liZarra, UrBaSa, lOS arcOS, viaNa
The last villages on the Way of St James before it enters la rioja are los arcos, with the Baroque Church of santa maría and the Circuit of navarre, which contains a karting track open to the public where you can test your skills as a racing driver; torres del río, whose unique romanesque Church of el santo sepulcro is a must; and the monumental viana, which will surprise you with its defensive walls, grand houses, palaces and churches, such as the Church of Santa María with its magnificent renaissance doorway, where the tomb of Cesare Borgia, a vatican general and cardinal who died in viana in 1507, lies.
viana ▼
monasterio de la oliva, Bardenas, tudela
From desert to vegetable garden
the south of navarre offers semi-desert, lunar landscapes, a city with a great culturally mixed past stemming from its arab roots, tudela, and tasty vegetables from the fertile floodplains of the Ebro. Carcastillo, monastery of la oliva
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eUNate, PUeNte la reiNa, eStella-liZarra, UrBaSa, lOS arcOS, viaNa navarra esenCial | 41
CentUries of history and art to admire iN SileNce the ribera region has three jewels of Cistercian architecture: the mediaeval monasteries of la oliva, fitero and tulebras. the clean-cut, conceptual spaces they contain transmit serenity and reflect the austerity which characterises the order of the “white monks”. the monastery of la Oliva (12th-13th centuries) in Carcastillo, an oasis of peace and tranquillity on the banks of the aragón river, invites you to discover silence through its solid stone walls. a walk through its splendid church, gothic cloister and the Chapel of San Jesucristo allows you to immerse yourself in the day-today of the community of Cistercian monks that lives there. don’t miss the chance to hear the liturgies chanted in spanish every day by the monks or to buy one of the wines they produce on site. the monastery of Fitero (12th century), the first Cistercian monastery on the iberian Peninsula, is located in a village known for its thermal waters. take a guided tour or just wander around the imposing, recently restored cloister, the church and other abbatial features. Just a few kilometres away stands the first ever female Cistercian monastery built in spain, the monastery of tulebras (12th century), continually inhabited by nuns who not only open its doors to visitors to show them the church and museum of sacred art, but also make delicious biscuits and other artisan products. ▼
42
marcilla, the castle
Corella, a BarOQUe Stage of all the towns in navarre, corella provides the finest Baroque backdrop. Grand houses and palaces, like the Palace of los arrese or the house of las Cadenas line its streets. you will be amazed by their striking coats of arms, large overhanging eaves and sumptuous façades. and don’t miss the Church of san miguel, which houses one of the most spectacular Baroque altarpieces to be found in navarre. if you visit the town during holy week, you can enjoy an impressive Baroque procession which the locals hold truly dear.
▲ Cascante, Basilica of el romero
▼ Corella, holy week
monastery of fitero mONaStery OF la Oliva, BardeNaS, tUdela | 43
tUdela, the home of vegetaBleS the capital of navarre’s ribera region is especially well known for its outstanding market gardens. try the famous local vegetable stew or some of the city’s star dishes: artichokes, cardoon, asparagus, borage or lettuce hearts. a good time to do that is during vegetable celebration Week, held each spring to extol the virtues of tudela’s local produce with tastings, talks, workshops, exhibitions and other activities. tudela also boasts a remarkable artistic heritage, the result of the great cultural mix it has experienced over the centuries. the best way to discover the city is on foot and at a leisurely pace. the city’s artistic gem is the cathedral of Santa maría, built around 1180 on the site of an old mosque. next to it stand the dean’s Pa▼ tudela
a lUNar laNdScaPe within everyone’s reaCh the Bardenas reales Natural Park invites us on a surprising journey through its 42,000 hectares of moonlike, semi-desert landscape. the wild beauty of the area, featured in countless movies like “Airbag” and “The world is not enough” or the series “Game of thrones”, lies in the curious shapes that the erosion of its clay, gypsum and sandstone soils has so capriciously sculpted. the Park has many signposted routes that can be explored on foot, by bike, on horseback or by car. it is advisable to consult the rules and boundaries of the area at www.bardenasreales.es.
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lace (16th century), the City hall and some grand houses and buildings, such as the house of el almirante, the house of ibáñez luna, the Palace of the marquis of huarte or the Castel ruiz culture centre. also worthy of mention are the romanesque Church of la magdalena, a national monument with one of the few romanesque towers left in navarre, the muñoz sola museum and the monreal tower, which has a camera obscura that offers spectacular panoramic views of the city. the Plaza de los fueros is the favourite meeting place for locals and the place where two festivals held during holy week take place: the Volatín and the descent of the angel.
Bardenas reales natural Park ▲
there are numerous viewpoints from which to photograph this unique desert, where foxes, wild cats and genets live amongst the thickets, salt marshes and esparto grass. a magical time to visit the Bardenas reales is in late summer, when thousands of sheep from the Pyrenean valleys enter the park via el Paso to graze during the winter.
when they want to take a walk, many locals and visitors choose the tarazonica rail trail, which starts at tudela railway station and runs along the banks of the Queiles river amidst market gardens, farmland and reedbeds to the aragonese village of tarazona.
▲ tarazonica rail trail
rian peninsula. its main appeal lies in the wide range of things you can do there; there is something for all tastes and ages. if you go with small children, see the chicks hatch at the farm, enjoy a boat ride, drive a dodgem, play at fishing, search for diamonds and wonder at the incredible bird of prey in flight display. And if it’s stronger emotions you are after, try the valhalla rollercoaster, the Bobsleigh or the Big zip line. ▼ tudela
FUN for the whole family the Sendaviva adventure and Fun Park, located next to the Bardenas reales, is the largest family leisure park on the ibe45
tOUriSm OFFiceS in navarre v Bertiz
v Orreaga/roncesvalles 948 790 301 oit.roncesvalles@navarra.es
v estella-lizarra
v Pamplona/iruĂąa 948 420 700 oficinaturismo@pamplona.es
v Javier
v roncal/erronkari 948 475 256 oit.roncal@navarra.es
v lekunberri
v SangĂźesa/Zangoza 948 871 411 oit.sanguesa@navarra.es
v OchagavĂa/Otsagabia
v tudela 948 848 058 oit.tudela@navarra.es
948 592 386 oit.bertiz@navarra.es 848 420 485 oit.estella@navarra.es 948 884 387 oit.javier@navarra.es 948 507 204 oit.lekunberri@navarra.es 948 890 641 oit.ochagavia@navarra.es
v Olite/erriberri
948 741 703 oit.olite@navarra.es
www.turismo.navarra.es tel. +34 848 420 420
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