vol. 3 no. 5 • may 2017 • choice cuts
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spanning the
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page 20
best
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Sensational
page 46
Utah Restaurant Association page 52
Devour Utah • May 2017 1
Family. Friends. Food.
3176 E. 6200 S. • Cottonwood Heights, UT 2015 801.944.0505 • banditsbbqutah.com Best
of Utah
Not Just A Pastry Place
Pastry • Breakfast lunch • Spirits 2 Devour Utah • May 2017
725 E. 12300 S. Draper 801-571-1500
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DEVOUR Contributors
STAFF Publisher JOHN SALTAS Editorial Editor Copy Editor Proofreader Contributors
Photographers
TED SCHEFFLER SARAH ARNOFF LANCE GUDMUNDSEN VANESSA CHANG, DARBY DOYLE, HEATHER L. KING, AMANDA ROCK, LEVI ROGERS, ALEX SPRINGER
When not preaching pork at her day job for Creminelli Fine Meats, freelancer Vanessa Chang regularly nerds out on chocolate and cheese.
NIKI CHAN, JOHN TAYLOR, STEVEN VARGO
Production Art Director Assistant Art Director Graphic Artists
DEREK CARLISLE BRIAN PLUMMER SUMMER MONTGOMERY, JOSH SCHEUERMAN, CAIT LEE
Business/Office Accounting Manager Office Administrator Technical Director
PAULA SALTAS ANNA KASER BRYAN MANNOS
Alex Springer is a freelance food and entertainment writer who has contributed to several publications along the Wasatch Front. He’s an avid fan of all things beautiful and tasty—especially when he doesn’t have to drive that far to get them.
Marketing Marketing Manager
JACKIE BRIGGS
Circulation Circulation Manager
LARRY CARTER
Sales Magazine Advertising Director Newsprint Advertising Director Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives
JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF PETE SALTAS ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER LISA DORELLI, NICK SASICH, JEREMIAH SMITH
Heather L. King writes about food, travel and culture in Utah and beyond. She is the founder of Utah Ladies Who Lunch and a proud Great Dane owner.
Cover Photo: Courtney McDowell (Pallet) by John Taylor Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email editor at Ted@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com
Copperfield Publishing Copyright 2017. All rights reserved @DevourUtah
6 Devour Utah • May 2017
@DevourUtah
@DevourUtah
Levi Rogers is a writer and coffee roaster in Salt Lake City. He graduated from the University of Utah with a degree in English and is currently getting his MFA from Antioch University. He lives with his wife, Cat, and his dog, Amelie.
STORE
★★★★★
AMAZING FOOD DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR
GIFT CERTIFICATES TO UTAH’S FINEST
DEVOURUTAHSTORE.COM
CANTU’S CULINARY CREATIONS Custom Catering & Home Delivery Service 801.359.6035 | www.cantuscatering.com | daniel@cantuscatering.com
Devour Utah • May 2017 7
Perfection Pickin’
V
anessa Chang is a ferocious food enthusiast, and in her “Last Bite” essay for this Choice Cuts edition of Devour Utah, she makes a strong case for shopping, eating and drinking locally—as opposed to the all-tooconvenient practice of buying online. And that, indeed, is what this entire issue is all about: seeking out the best meals, dishes, libations, service and ambiance that Salt Lake City and its surrounding communities have to offer. Everyone loves a good sandwich, and Alex Springer has been boldly breaking bread to track down some of SLC’s sensational sammiches. From the Machine Gun at Bruges Waffles & Frites to the Grove Market Market & Deli’s Big John, Springer has the sandwich situation stone cold. Meanwhile, west side resident Levi Rogers feels that his part of town gets too little love in the foodie community, and takes us on a tour of enticing eateries in Rose Park, Glendale, Fairpark, Poplar Grove, Central Ninth and Downtown West. Darby Doyle is all over the pastries and sweet sensations that add a spark of naughtiness to our dining, profiling pastry chefs and tempting dishes from the likes of Amour Café, Tupelo, PJK’s Creamery, Pallet Bistro, Hell’s Backbone Grill and others. It’s a sweet ride. Trying to eat meat-free? Amanda Rock has you covered with her survey of adventurous vegetarian dishes from purveyors including Chow Truck, Pho Saigon Noodle House, Red Iguana and O’Falafel Etc. Visitors and newcomers to our area are often surprised (happily) at the culinary diversity in SLC. Sure, we take great Mexican and contemporary American cuisine as givens. But Heather L. King reminds readers that there is so much more to indulge in, from Ethiopian yesega wot and Native American fry bread, to Vietnamese banh mi and Taiwanese fried pancakes. This might just be the tastiest issue of Devour Utah yet. Enjoy exploring these choice cuts, and let us know about choice discoveries of your own. ❖ —Ted Scheffler Editor
8 Devour Utah • May 2017
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Crave-worthy Creations By Darby Doyle
10 Devour Utah • May 2017
essert can make or break a guest’s experience,” says pastry chef Natalie Keller, who has captained patisserie programs at some of Salt Lake City’s top restaurants. Keller believes that as the last course, desserts should make a positive final impression, and that, “It’s my job to make sure it’s an amazing one.” The field of pastry, especially in Utah, remains challenging and very competitive, with only a small number of highly coveted positions within the industry. And pastry chefs, like their savory colleagues in the high-pressure world of fine dining, constantly work to stay relevant and keep evolving with their craft. Within their field, pastry chefs have earned notoriety for exactitude, something Handle/HSL Pastry Chef Alexa Norlin acknowledges with a grin and an eye roll as “a well-deserved OCD reputation.” Norlin describes the demanding and meticulous nature of their training, as it necessarily becomes second nature in their body of work. “Pastry school taught me a lot of technique, but also that there’s always room for improvement,” she says about her time at the prestigious French Pastry School in Chicago (which Keller also attended). “We learned from the best, and they had crazy-high expectations. If you had a dirty apron you were sent home.” From independent enterprises under the direction of one creator (of which there are dozens in SLC alone) to chef de patisserie positions overseeing multiple locations and a dozen bakers, three qualities tend to make for stellar pastry professionals: consistency, creativity and mad food-chemistry skills. And in my time talking with so many of these offthe-charts talented culinary artists over the years, I’ve learned with great affection that even though they tend to take their craft to an almost-obsessive level of concentration, pastry chefs take themselves far less seriously. The many belly laughs I’ve shared with them over plates of pâté à choux and ramekins of gelato are totally worth the extra time on the treadmill and a growing stretchy-pants collection. As Natalie Keller says of her exacting work, “It’s the best compliment when someone says, it’s too pretty to eat.” All hail stretchy pants!
BRIAR HANDLY
Handle’s carrot cake
Carrot cake HANDLE
As a lovely harbinger of all things spring, carrot cake gets a modern recalibration at the hands of award-winning pastry chef Alexa Norlin, who oversees desserts operations and myriad baked components for the original Handle in Park City, as well as chef/owner Briar Handly’s sister spot, HSL in Salt Lake City. In this case, it’s carrot cake on steroids: cake layers dense with flavor yet paradoxically light in texture banded with cream cheese mousse. It’s plated spectacularly with whipped mascarpone, candied walnuts and topped with a perfect quenelle of bay leaf ice cream. While they’re firmly recognizable as desserts, Norlin’s creative and boundary-pushing plates combine sweet elements minimally, letting the earthy and subtle flavors of the ingredients shine through. “I like to create recognizable aspects of comfort in the dessert course,” she says, “but it absolutely has to have beauty and creativity.” 136 Heber Ave., Park City, 435-602-1155, handleparkcity.com
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Stracciatella affogato at Amour Café
DEREK CARLISLE
10
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Stracciatella Affogato
Fresh Rhubarb Crumble
The equivalent of a warm hug from the universe, a rainyday lunch of local Beehive grilled cheese with Amour Spreads’ tomato jam (swoon) and a cup of steaming soup hits the spot. Rather than give into temptation and take a nap, there’s nothing like having the perfect afternoon pickme-up of a stracciatella affogato: velvety chocolate chip gelato “drowned” Italian-style with a shot of espresso. It’s the perfect balance of cool sweet comfort with a serious jolt of caffeine to help get through the rest of the day. Pastry Chef Amber Billingsley changes up the local Solstice chocolate stracciatella offering every week—think malted milk, High West whiskey, salted caramel or double chocolate—but they’re all beyond suited for the full affogato treatment. Billingsley has built a solid reputation on her bounteous gelato repertoire, with a legacy of awards earned at top pastry shops and restaurants like Vinto and 3 Cups. “I just love the blank slate to play with making gelato,” she says. “The possibilities are endless.” Bonus: Pints of packed gelato are available to go. 1329 S. 500 East, SLC, 888-554-6845, amourslc.com
“I love to feed people,” Tupelo Pastry Chef Shirley Butler says. “It’s something that I’ve wanted to do since I was young.” On the old AGA range in her family’s English countryside farmhouse kitchen, Butler experimented alongside her mother—an avid baker—and father, who took her into their extensive gardens to harvest and into the fields to hunt rabbit and fowl. At Tupelo, Butler’s creations bring her lifetime of exploring flavors and techniques while traveling the world (she’s a former private chef and nanny) to the plate in ways that are instantly recognizable—custards, tarts, biscuits and puddings—but with sophisticated flavor combinations and elegant presentations. Like bright-tart rhubarb with its distinctive ruby hue slightly melting against a mellow Caledonian Scottish oatmeal ice cream. Butler’s sky-high mini biscuits (which she spends almost three hours each day mixing by hand) are a must-order treat at Tupelo, along with anything she makes using chocolate. In the works are equally spectacular savory treats, like delicate black-pepper macarons sandwiched with foie gras and cherry jam. 508 Main, Park City, 435-615-7700, tupeloparkcity.com
Amour Café
12 Devour Utah • May 2017
Tupelo
The Tin Angel is a locally owned, locally driven Art, Dining and Cocktail experience in the heart of Downtown Salt Lake’s Historic Pioneer Park District with off street parking.
Join us for
Mother’s Day Brunch For the first time ever, Tin Angel will serve a champagne and bloody mary brunch with live music on the patio for Mother’s Day. Sunday May 14th 10 am to 3pm View the brunch menu and reserve a table at www.thetinangel.com Serving Lunch, Dinner & Craft Cocktails Monday- Saturday
BEST FIRST DATE
Devour Utah • May 2017 13
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When Life Gives You Lemons …
Manoli’s loukoumathes
Pallet Bistro
The dessert menu at Pallet constantly changes, not only with the seasons, but also with what Chef Buzz Willey and Pastry Chef Courtney McDowell have sourced from their local growers that day. “We love seeing what piques our interest with each delivery,” McDowell says. “Finding something that seems weird and interesting to me and figuring out how to make the ingredients shine is the best part of my job.” Her plates are known for being in equal parts visually stunning and drop-dead delicious, with lots of bright citrus elements and reduced fruit vinegars. She crafts a light touch on the sweet spectrum with hints of herbal notes and a bit of savory sass. The flavors are rustic and comfortable with a contemporary twist, like the deconstructed lemon tart with crumbled meringue and edible flowers. Her current series of plates are all plays on food idioms, with serious pastry technique and quality ingredients presented in whimsical ways. “Dessert should be fun,” she says. “I want people to love the food and also have a good laugh.” 237 S. 400 West, SLC, 801-9354431, eatpallet.com
DEREK CARLISLE
10
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Loukoumathes
Old Town Trio
Fresh, innovative and decidedly modern spins on Greek classics have made Manoli’s a stand-out in SLC’s culinary scene. Pastry Chef Katrina Cutrubus attributes her own decidedly cosmopolitan and lighter take on Greek desserts to her time experiencing the pastries of Europe first-hand, with a particular love for Spanish influences and the bright flavors of the Mediterranean. Cutrubus’ loukoumathes are elegant and satisfying: pillowy traditional Greek donuts with a slight citrusy edge, served with spiced honey and sesame seeds. When it’s on the menu, don’t miss her decidedly Greek riff on cheesecake—a tangy yet light goat cheese pastry drizzled with completely addictive black-pepper honey. 402 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-532-3760, manolison9th.com
Pastry Chef Aimee Altizer calls this creation, “all the best of Park City ingredients, all in one dessert.” The rich chocolate torte—made with Park City-based Ritual Mid-Mountain chocolate—gets a subtle hint from Utah’s High West Rendezvous Rye. At Firewood, each dish has an additional bit of flavorful depth from elements cooked on the massive wood-burning grills in the kitchen, which Altizer uses to impart a delicate smokiness to her Pink Elephant Coffee roasted-beet gelato and shaved beet petal. As the seasons change, Altizer and Chef John Murcko look forward to incorporating wood-fired Utah stone fruits like peach, plum and raspberry with their gently smoked housemade ricotta and pound cake. It’s a feast for all the senses. 306 Main, Park City, 435-252-9900, firewoodonmain.com
14 Devour Utah • May 2017
Pallet’s When Life Gives You Lemons ...
Firewood
NIKI CHAN
Manoli’s
DEREK CARLISLE
Hell’s Backbone Grill chocolate-chile pot de crème
Black Pepper & Tequila Cherry Ice Cream
Chocolate-Chile Pot de Crème
Although Pastry Chef Peter Korth is coming up on 50 unique flavors he’s developed as owner of PJK’s Creamery, his black pepper ice cream studded with tequila-pickled cherries remains arguably the most famous in his repertoire. While pastry chef at Frida Bistro, this sweet-savory concoction won national attention when the Cooking Channel featured it in an “Ice Cream Nation” special. Since then, Korth, along with his partner in business and life, Mike Thomas, have wowed farmers market patrons with their seasonal selections of traditional old-fashioned hard-pack ice cream and sorbets in modern flavors like La Barba coffee with a fig-caramel swirl, calamansi (a citrus from Southeast Asia) sorbet with lime and orange zest, Utah peach with High West whiskey-toffee swirl, Mexican hot chocolate, salty-sweet buttered popcorn, and crunchy rainbow-hued breakfast cereal. pjkscreamery.com
Now in their 18th season operating in remote Boulder, Utah, near Grand-Staircase Escalante National Monument, Hell’s Backbone Grill chef/owners Jen Castle and Blake Spalding keep some dishes on their roster for nostalgic reasons. In the case of the chocolatechile cream pots, there’s the probable devastation of scores of devoted customers if the item were ever to leave their menu. The timeless French classic pot de crème gets the HBG special treatment with silky dark chocolate and a little zip from Chimayo chile powder grown and processed each harvest at the restaurant’s nearby farm. It’s absolutely worth the trip to Boulder to try one. (Or three—no judging here.) For those in need of the chocolate-chile fix during HBG’s winter off-season, the recipe can be found in their first cookbook, With a Measure of Grace. No. 20 North Highway 12, Boulder, 435-335-7464, hellsbackbonegrill.com
PJK’s Creamery
Hell’s Backbone Grill
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DEREK CARLISLE
10
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Gourmandise pain au chocolat
Raspberry Cream Pie Pain au Chocolat Left Fork Grill
Gourmandise
You can trust that the pastry will be top notch when booths in the diner have a built-in “pie shelf” for a reminder that there’s always room left for dessert. When only a slice of pie like Grandma made will do—if your grandma, like mine, insisted on using chilled lard in the crust to achieve those perfectly crisp flaky layers—Left Fork Grill has you covered. Their menu board features an ever-changing selection of seasonal cream and fresh-fruit pies made daily, all featuring that magnificent crust. Unlike many traditional diner pies, though, Left Fork Grill’s are never overly cloying or sweet, with flavors like fresh citrus, zingy raspberry or toasted coconut. Devour photographer and Salt Tooth food blogger Caroline Hargraves says, “Their raspberry cream pie basically gives me IRL (in real life) heart eyes” like the ubiquitous emoji. We totally agree. 68 W. 3900 South, SLC, 801-266-4322, leftforkgrill.ipower.com
Ten-thirty on a Saturday night in the Gourmandise dining room feels like being swept across the Atlantic and seamlessly deposited in a café in Paris, Berlin or Rome. Almost every chair is filled, the softly lit room cozy with the lyricism of a half-dozen world languages and clatter of espresso cups. Multi-generational families cheerfully cram around pushed-together tables, content babies snuggled up on their grandfather’s shoulders and guests clink wine glasses with an exuberant “cin cin” or “salud” cheers. While we are fortunate in this salty city to have dozens of truly superb pastry shops, Gourmandise is the bustling spot to wind down a post-theater dessert date while simultaneously picking up a stellar breakfast for the next morning. With a selection as impeccable in its quality as its almost anxiety-inducing quantity of choices, standing at the pastry counter is a delicious win-win dilemma every time. 250 S. 300 East, SLC, 801-328-3330, gourmandisethebakery.com ❖
The dessert buffet at Stein Eriksen Lodge’s Sunday brunch is one of the Beehive State’s treasures for the definitive dessert-lover—or in the case of my husband and sons, those that see a dessert buffet as a competitive challenge akin to navigating a slalom dual course. There’s an entire room filled with exquisitely prepared sweet stuff at the Forbes fourstar Glitretind Restaurant each week, featuring some of the finest pastries available in the region as prepared by a fleet of diligent chefs de patisserie. 7700 Stein Way, Park City, 435-645-6455, steinlodge.com/dining
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V be
spanning the
Gl DEREK CARLISLE
Dining diversity in Salt Lake City By Heather L. King
Thai Delight’s pad si ew with shrimp
isitors to Utah are often surprised by the diversity of cuisine offered here. Our population of transplants as well as returned Mormon missionaries makes the state ripe for gastronomic adventure—everything from Ethiopian and Swedish cuisines to Native American and French. Join us as we tour the world, one fork-full at a time, without ever leaving the Front Range.
Thai Delight Café
Utahns have a love affair with Thai food. Nowhere is this more evident than in West Jordan at Thai Delight Café, which has now expanded into a third segment of the strip mall the eatery occupies. Dependable rice, noodle and stir-fry dishes fill the menu and most will be served with a beautiful, covered bowl filled with rice. Try the tom yum gai soup, a hot-and-sour broth brimming with juicy chicken, tangy lemongrass and fresh mushrooms. For curry, the massaman is a standard-bearer delivering potatoes, onions, peanuts and your choice of protein in a kicky coconut sauce. 6271 Dixie Drive, West Jordan, 801-968-7626, thaidelightutah.com
20 Devour Utah • May 2017
DEREK CARLISLE
DEREK CARLISLE DEREK CARLISLE
The gorgeous European ambiance of Kimi’s Chop & Oyster House
Kimi’s Chop & Oyster House
Whisk yourself across the pond to Sweden with a visit to the Commons at Sugar House. Kimi’s Chop & Oyster House offers a menu of seafood, Swedish specialties, quality meats and a gorgeous European ambiance in the old Sugar House post office. Begin your evening with fresh oysters on the half shell or the chanterelle mushroom soup —rich from cream and port wine and hearty from mushrooms and beef broth. For meat lovers, try the Berkshire double bone-in pork chop featuring a roasted-pear-and-apple chutney paired with mustard coulis for a bit of tang. 2155 S. Highland Drive, SLC, 801-946-2079, kimishouse.com
Devour Utah • May 2017 21
Bringing Salt Lake City its
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Made-to-measure, custom designs and consulting
What do you want to create? 1779 S. 1100 E. (435) 896-7286 22 Devour Utah • May 2017
JOHN TAYLOR
The molcajete at Chile-Tepin
Oh Mai
Les Madeleines
Multiple locations, ohmaisandwich.com
216 E. 500 South, SLC, 801-355-2294, lesmadeleines.com
Four locations across the Salt Lake Valley now dish out the best value in Vietnamese food. A simple menu of banh mi sandwiches, pho, bun noodles, rice dishes and salads are all offered for well under the $10 threshold. Enjoy the bit tet xao toi—a banh mi with eight inches of thinshaved ribeye steak bathed in garlic butter that’s then loaded into a crispy baguette and topped with crunchy carrots and daikon along with cucumber, cilantro, jalapeno, lettuce, mayo and a black-pepper-onion vinaigrette.
While Les Madeleines is best known for the rich and buttery kouing aman that chef and owner Romina Rasmussen turns out by the dozens every day, and which has been featured in national television shows and magazines, her beautiful Frenchstyle café also offers savory breakfast and lunch delights—many with a side of finger-licking pommes frites. But guests are always drawn back to the pastry case where fresh violets might adorn a Meyer lemon dessert or Valrhona chocolate hides inside the flaky pain au chocolat.
Chile-Tepin
Salt Lake City has plenty of Mexican restaurants but none of them quite like glistening newcomer Chile-Tepin. Making its mark by offering fresh and wellprepared dishes at surprisingly low prices in an appealing setting, Chile-Tepin serves up a memorable chile relleno. The chile itself has the perfect balance of sturdiness and heat, and is encased in a tasty, crisp outer shell. You’ll also find the increasingly popular molcajete here, which is brimming with grilled steak, chicken, shrimp, nopales (cactus) and sticks of queso fresco cheese simmering in green tomatillo sauce and topped with charred jalapeños and onion. 307 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-883-9255, facebook.com/chiletepin
Devour Utah • May 2017 23
SETH MOORE
Everest Curry Kitchen’s lamb coconut korma
Mom’s Kitchen
Head to South Salt Lake for authentic Taiwanese food at a modest price—all directed by Mama Chen and Mama Zhang who run the kitchen. There’s a menu section for Taiwanese food, noodles (all handmade in-house), fried rice, chow mein and homestyle dishes, which are served family style. Start with the simply named beef roll—a pan-fried pancake rolled around slices of beef, scallions and shredded lettuce with a flavorful brown sauce. Chinese pork meatballs in the menu’s soup section are enveloped in glass noodles and cabbage, all with a rich broth that’s surprisingly substantial. 2233 S. State, SLC, 801486-0092, momskitchenrestaurantsaltlakecity.com
24 Devour Utah • May 2017
Everest Curry Kitchen
Venture to Sandy’s Everest Curry Kitchen for a vast menu highlighting Nepalese and Indian dishes, including curries and kormas along with items baked in their tandoor clay oven. Everest Curry Kitchen artfully balances flavors in each dish, such as the coriander and cumin supporting braised lamb in a tangy tomatococonut cream sauce found in the classic lamb coconut korma entrée. Pair the korma with bubbly and buttery naan served hot from the tandoor oven to scoop up any saucy leftovers on the plate. Dishes are served in beautiful copper bowls with a large serving of perfectly prepared basmati rice. 68 E. 10600 South, Sandy, 801-571-4015, everestcurrykitchen.com
A Perfectly Steamed Bun, & Premium Beef Dog, topped with... Mayonnaise, Guacamole Pepper jack Cheese, Cucumbers, Bacon, Pico de Gallo, Sour Crème, Sport Peppers, and a dash of celery salt. Only at Enjoy Life... Eat at Johnniebeefs!
6913 S. 1300 E. Cottonwood Heights • johnniebeefs.com • 801-352-0372
Devour Utah • May 2017 25
STEVEN VARGO
STEVEN VARGO STEVEN VARGO
Black Sheep’s pozole verde
Black Sheep at Epic Brewing Chef Mark Daniel Mason
Black Sheep at Epic Brewing
Manoli’s
Black Sheep at Epic Brewing
South, 801-532-3760, manolison9th.com
2100 South, 801-742-5490, blacksheepslc.com
Salt Lake’s earliest history included Greek immigrants, and Manoli’s owner and chef Manoli Katsanevas comes directly from a long line of successful Greek restaurant entrepreneurs. The restaurant offers a fresh take on the small plates or “meze” concept with inventive vegetarian, seafood and meat selections, in addition to salads, main courses, filling sides and delectable desserts—plus weekend brunch. Standout meze include the creamy three-cheese orzo loaded with white cheddar, parmesan and feta, and the mouthwatering piquillo peppers stuffed with creamy smoked feta and black sea salt. 402 E. 900
26 Devour Utah • May 2017
Black Sheep is the place in Salt Lake City to find a fusion of Native American and Southwestern cuisines. In addition to their original location in Provo, Black Sheep at Epic Brewing recently opened in Sugar House and is now serving up Bleu Fire Shrimp, which highlights grilled shrimp on top of creamy blue-corn cheddar grits with a flourish of chipotle-butter sauce and a side of fresh sweetcorn pico de gallo. Another inventive fusion dish is the signature pozole ramen: Japanese ramen noodles and a poached egg join pork belly in a smoky red chile broth accented with masa and presented in a cornhusk. 1048 E.
LOCALLY OWNED & OPERATED
707 E. FORT UNION BLVD. • MIDVALE
(801) 748- 1300
8256 SOUTH 700 EAST • SANDY (801) 255-1200
7680 S UNION PARK AVE • MIDVALE (801) 569-4645
FEATURING
HOME-GROWN VEGETABLES ALL SUMMER LONG! Devour Utah • May 2017 27
SETH MOORE
Spring Fling for Foodies!
Photos, from left to right, by: Pepper Nix, Lindsey Shaun, Melissa Kelsey
Join us
At the beautiful McCune Mansion for a perfectly selected 5-course dining experience curated by Mary Crafts-Homer. Butler-passed hor d’oeuvres, and a signature event cocktail provided by Sugarhouse Vodka will start the evening. This exclusive pop-up has limited seating!
Reserve your space by visiting Devourutah.com
Friday, May 12th at McCune Mansion $125 includes 5-course meal and signature event cocktail
Full menu and tickets available online at devourutah.com
The Taste of Mahider platter at Mahider Ethiopian Restaurant
Mahider Ethiopian Restaurant
Ethiopian food is usually best enjoyed in a group in order to sample an array of items family-style. The Taste of Mahider platter offers an excellent introduction to Ethiopian fare and includes yedoro wot—a stew with moist chicken legs bathed in a thick and hearty berbere-seasoned sauce—and a chunky beef stew (yesega wot) brimming with heat. Vegetarian choices include gomen, a tasty collard green sauté with garlic, jalapeno peppers and spices, as well as fesolia—a vegetable stew containing string beans, carrots, tomatoes and onions. Everything is served with injera, a spongy, fermented, crêpe-like bread that’s ripped into pieces and used to eat the wot by hand. 1465 S. State, 801-975-1111 ❖
28 Devour Utah • May 2017
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Delicious Brunch Menu at all locations Saturdays and Sunday from 11-3
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65 E 5th ave Murray, UT 801-685-6111
5171 Cottonwood street Murray, UT 801-262-1888
Huge Menus • Gluten Free & Vegan Options ANNYSTAKEONTHAI.COM Devour Utah • May 2017 29
S
Noshing in Salt Lake’s west side neighborhoods By Levi Rogers
30 Devour Utah • May 2017
alt Lake City is undeniably a city that faces east. The main neighborhoods and restaurants of downtown, the University of Utah, the Avenues, Sugar House and 9th and 9th are all situated east of State Street, nestled at the bottom of foothills that continue to rise and fold to the beautiful and recreation-filled Wasatch Mountains. Yet, there is another area of Salt Lake many residents never explore. It’s what one might call “the west side.” Besides Antelope Island, the Salt Flats, the Maverik Center and the Oquirrh Mountains, we generally think there’s not a lot to the west; after all, it is an area demarcated from Salt Lake by freeways and railroad tracks. In terms of restaurant coverage, the west side gets all too little press. That needs to change. For many, the one west side eatery people know is Red Iguana. And, of course, Red Iguana is great—an SLC classic for sure, but there’s a lot more to explore around the area. The oftoverlooked neighborhoods of Rose Park, Fairpark, Poplar Grove, Downtown West, Central Ninth, Marmalade and Glendale (stretching all the way to West Valley and South Jordan), offer wonderful hidden gems of affordable ethnic and American cuisine. And, yes, it’s true, with the bourgeoning food scene in Salt Lake continuing to expand each year, there is less of a need to search for great food when it’s all around you. But should you find yourself on this side of town or feeling a need for carnitas, vegan bahn mi, craft beer or even African food, you’ll find it here.
El Cabrito’s pozole
GREG METCALF
TED SCHEFFLER
TED SCHEFFLER GREG METCALF
Goat enchilads with mole
Rose Park El Cabrito
Tucked off 1000 North and 900 West a half-block back from the road, El Cabrito—whose name refers to spit-roasted goat from the Monterrey and Nuevo Leon area of Mexico—is a wonderful little Mexican restaurant offering both dine-in and take-out. Inside, it’s cozy and friendly with a large mural of a blue bay painted on the east wall. The real killer deal here is the $6-per-pound take-out pork carnitas, if you want to enjoy El Cabrito Mexican fare at home. The tender roasted goat meat is also available for take-out, as well as in several dishes made in-house like stewed birria and goat consommé, and prepared in ways from roasted al pastor and oven-baked al horno to en salsa (in sauce). El mejor restaurant en este barrio del Salt Lake! 956 W. 1000 North, 801-363-2645
Devour Utah • May 2017 31
O U T W I T H T H E C O L D. . .
ITH T W N I
H E DE L I C I OU
20 W. 200 S. • (801) 355-3891 • Catering available Open Mon-Wed: 9am-6pm Thu-Sat: 9am-9pm
270 South Rio Grande St. In the Historic Rio Grande Train Station www.riograndecafeslc.com
32 Devour Utah • May 2017
S!
Fairpark Julia’s Mexican Restaurant
DEREK CARLISLE
All Chay’s vegan shrimp
Julia’s Mexican Restaurant is home to some of the best housemade comida de Mexicana in Utah. While they do serve burritos and enchiladas, much of the fare here is more authentic than the typical “Mexican” restaurants in America that lean more toward Mexican-American hybrid dishes. It might not look much to the average passer-by from the outside, but inside Julia’s is all about the food. The dining room is simple and relaxed with palm trees painted on the walls and Tapatío hot sauce at each table. While ordering is easier to negotiate if you speak Spanish, Maria Julia and company are some of the friendliest, most amicable people, so don’t feel intimidated if language is a barrier. “¿Cuantos años tienes aquí?” (how many years have you been here?) I asked while I ordered and was met with the answer “Quince,” or 15. That’s a long time, and for good reason: The food at Julia’s is made to order—prepared in a small, homey kitchen in the back. And you can tell the difference. The spices perfectly complement each dish. One of Julia’s best plates is chile rellenos, though the enchiladas are also excellent, along with the pozole, menudo and various goat dishes. Paired with some housemade rice and beans on the side topped with a healthy dose of cotija cheese and you’re in for one of the best lunches of your life. Julia’s also serves breakfast (desayunos) and early dinner (though be advised that they close at 6 p.m. and payment is strictly cash-only). 51 S. 1000 West, 801-521-4228
DEREK CARLISLE
All Chay Vegan shrimp noodle bowl
DEREK CARLISLE
Vietnamese coffee
There used to an El Salvadoran pupusas restaurant where the vegan Vietnamese restaurant All Chay is now. But it didn’t take long for the new eatery to help transform and uplift the entire neighborhood. The proprietors built a small greenhouse, and, along with some minor rockscaping and gardening in the summer, gave a nice face-lift to the block. Food-wise, All Chay soon became one of the best additions to the west side of town. The pho, banh mi, crispy “nuggets,” teriyaki “chikun” and vegan shrimp are all fantastic. Never in my life have I enjoyed such excellent tasting faux meat as I have at All Chay. Alternative soy meats have been improving for some time, but these really fooled me. All Chay serves a wide selection of noodle and rice dishes, along with spring rolls and a couple variations of pho and banh mi, all good with just veggies or those appealing alternative meats. Order a coconut water or Vietnamese coffee and enjoy healthy west-side dining. 1264 W. 500 North, 801-521-4789
Devour Utah • May 2017 33
Poplar Grove Menudo at Taqueria El Rey de Oros
MIND. BODY. SPA.
Mention this ad for a complimentary Refresher Facial when booked with any other service! 801-255-3655
www.SoulsticeDaySpa.com
Fort Union 6981 S. Park Centre Drive Salt Lake City, UT 84121 DEREK CARLISLE
Jordan Landing 7138 Plaza Center Drive West Jordan, Ut 84084
Chunga’s Chunga’s is officially no longer a secret. The home of the “Famous Taco Al-Pastor” and Cancun-influenced Mexican fare, run by brothers Roberto and Horatio Contreras, seems to get busier and busier every year. And the fame is legit. The term al pastor refers to a combination of pineapple and shawarma-style spit-roasted pork, a cooking technique brought to Mexico in the early 1900s by Lebanese immigrants. The al pastor tacos are great but so are the al pastor burritos, quesadillas and nachos. The chicken enchiladas are also killer, and Chunga’s serves a plethora of fountain sodas and tropical ice beverages that whet any thirst. The setting inside is familiar and simple, but in summer, the patio outside is sublime. 180 S. 900 West, 801953-1840, chungasmexican.com
Taqueria El Rey De Oros
42 Street nd
Greenhouse SINCE 1982
34 Devour Utah • May 2017
Just across the street from Chunga’s is the well-established, locals’ favorite Taqueria El Rey de Oros. It’s a sit-down eatery with taco-cart-like cuisine that’s super cheap and offers classic street tacos with the usual toppings of pickled carrots, onions, cilantro, lime and salsa. Taco options like carnitas, lengua, carne asada, cabeza, chicken and al pastor keep loyal customers coming back day in and day out. In addition to tacos, this funky spot also dishes up terrific al pastor burritos, tortas and seafood cocktails, plus cold beer. 175 S. 900 West, 801-322-3176
Downtown West
Ensalada de bruselas at Finca
Chile-Tepin If you’re in the mood for mole or enchiladas but don’t want to endure a lengthy wait for a table at Red Iguana, try Chile-Tepin, a great new addition to downtown’s west side where a Café Trang used to be. Prices are affordable and the food is excellent. ChileTepin has a great vibe with a casual, wide-open dining area, exposed brick interior, big canvasses of art and large windows offering a glimpse of downtown. Enjoy a well-made margarita and the marvelous molcajete while you peruse the other extensive menu offerings. 307 W. 200 South, 801-883-9255, facebook.com/chiletepin
JOHN TAYLOR
Finca
AUSTEN DIAMOND
Finca’s fabulous cocktails
JOHN TAYLOR
Croquetas
I’m convinced Finca is one of the most distinctive restaurants in Salt Lake City. I can’t think of another restaurant that serves similar Spanish tapas-style fare in such an elegant setting. An excellent date spot, inside, it’s dark and cozy, with subdued lighting, white tablecloths, green-shaded banker’s lamps and snazzy floral wallpaper. The menu is made up of small plates, or tapas, and is divided between pinxtos (small bites), appertivos (appetizers), mariscos (seafood), carne (meat) and vegetales (vegetables). Dishes range from the papas y aioli (fried potatoes) to octopus, honey-glazed carrots, pork belly, shrimp and a large platter of paella Catalana—a dish of rice, chorizo, seafood, lemon and saffron served in a paella pan. In addition, Finca has a large selection of Spanish wines alongside an excellent cocktail menu created by bartender Natalie Hamilton, as well as a very affordable, delicious and wait-less brunch on the weekends. 327 W. 200 South, 801-4870699, fincaslc.com
Devour Utah • May 2017 35
Libation liquidator Scott Gardner
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
Central Ninth
Water Witch
801.355.2294 | 216 East 500 South, SLC 36 Devour Utah • May 2017
Where once there was just the lone coffee shop Blue Copper, now there is neighborhood bar Water Witch, along with recently relocated tapas and wine restaurant Meditrina, upscale mini mart Jade Market and Middle Eastern/ Lebanese café Laziz Kitchen. This new western development on 900 South is quickly becoming one of the most delectably dense areas in the city for food and drink. The creation of a trio of Utah’s best bartenders, Water Witch is a funky, fun spot for cocktails, beer and wine, but also offers a terrific menu of bar bites. Tempting noshes include Basque pickled chile peppers called piparras; pork rillette with crostini, cornichons and mustard; sardines; Beltex Meats’ nduja, and cockles in brine. This ain’t your grandpapppy’s tavern. 163 W. 900 South, 801-462-0967, waterwitchbar.com
Glendale
JAKE HILL
African Mini Mart and Take Out-Restaurant There are several African markets on Redwood Road alongside the many tienditas and taco carts that proliferate the west side. The Juba (2350 S. Redwood Road) and The K&K African Market (996 S. Redwood Road) are two worth a visit, but the African Mini Mart and Take Out Restaurant is my go-to African eatery. It’s located in a somewhat odd location, situated between a Standard plumbing warehouse and furniture outlet store, but inside, it’s warm and inviting. African art decorates the walls and a constant stream of Ethiopian music videos resound from a TV. The restaurant is somewhat slow during the day but picks up steadily over the course of the evening, and this eatery has a broader range of food and drink than at Ethiopian-only restaurants. The bread is traditional budenna, rather than Ethiopian injera, though it’s very similar. Simply order the familystyle platter and you can’t go wrong. It feeds three or four people easily, and is a combination of spicy beef stew, lentils, beets, beans, onions, hardboiled eggs and colorful sauces and spices spread artfully over the thin, spongey, pancake-like budenna. African Restaurant also has an array of vegetarian options and take-out service. 1878 S. Redwood Road, 801-978-9673, africanrestaurant.org
Because of their vast wholesale program throughout Utah and the U.S., a lot of people don’t realize that as Utah’s largest brewery (and No. 39 on the list of largest craft breweries in the U.S.) Uinta Brewing Co. operates its own brewpub in Salt Lake. “We went through a lengthy remodel about a year and a half ago,” says Tanya Sapula, a guest experience manager who’s been with Uinta for more than four years. The pub has a spacious, well-lit, sleek interior, situated right next to one of their 12 outdoor fermentation tanks, which holds hundreds of gallons of craft brew. The Brewhouse features classic pub fare like nachos, chips, wings, burgers, sandwiches and fish and chips, along with a dog-friendly patio and a large indoor seating area with a view of their original 40-gallon-Santa Rosa brewing system. The pub offers a plethora of both seasonal and classic Uinta beers directly from the source. I try the “Brett” beers as Sapula shows me around the place. “They’re made with brettanomyces yeast,” she explains. Uinta currently offers several Brett beers—floral, funky, woody, horsey, (similar to farmhouse ales) with a perfect sour note. Located in a no-man’s land industrial park between Salt Lake and West Valley off 1700 South, (but conveniently right off Interstate 215), the Brewhouse Pub isn’t exactly a place with lots of foot traffic, but, hey, that’s why we have GPS on our phones. 1722 S. Fremont Drive, 801-467-0909, uintabrewing.com ❖
JAKE HILL
JAKE HILL
Uinta Brewhouse Pub
Devour Utah • May 2017 37
10 Marvels of meat-free cooking
VEG By Amanda Rock
hile a few humans classify themselves strictly as herbivores, subsisting solely on plants, most of us are omnivores, enjoying a varied diet of meat and plants. So unless you’re a lion tearing into a fresh wildebeest, a truly carnivorous diet would be awfully limited and boring. Well, here’s a list of vegetablebased dishes that are rich in flavor and texture, and sure to appeal to even the most hardcore omnivore. Whether you dig international cuisine or prefer to play it safe with good ol’ mac and cheese, there’s something here for everyone.
Photos by John Taylor Vegetarian dumplings from Chow Truck
Tlaycoyo Con Queso
Vegetarian Dumplings
Made from masa, this botana, or snack-sized dish is filled with mellow, gooey Oaxacan cheese, spicy green chile and topped with lettuce, cilantro, salsa and slices of fresh radish. Zesty and substantial—this snack is sure to satisfy. Pair it with a margarita and housemade guacamole for the full Alamexo Cantina experience. 1059 E. 900 South,
Chow Truck was Salt Lake’s premier food truck, and it’s still going strong. Since purchasing the business, Chef J. Looney has added a few new gems to the popular menu, like these obsession-worthy dumplings. Filled with veggies, perfectly fried and served with a delectable hoisin sauce, these marvelous morsels will make your mouth a happy place. Follow Chow Truck on social media or check their website to find the bright yellow restaurant on wheels. chowtruck.com
Alamexo Cantina
SLC, alamexo.com
38 Devour Utah • May 2017
Chow Truck
Falafel sandwich from O’Falafel Etc.
Falafel sandwich
Classic Masala Dosa
If a restaurant is named after a food, you just gotta order that food. Case in point: the Falafel sandwich from O’Falafel Etc. Lightly fried patties of ground garbanzo beans and onion, cilantro and parsley are tucked into warm, fluffy pita bread. As a falafel enthusiast, I’m confident these will be among the best you’ve ever tasted. Simply put, this is fab falafel. 790 E. 2100 South, SLC, 801-
The Indian masala dosa at Saffron Valley is comfort food on par with American grilled cheese and tomato soup, only a lot more flavorful and fun to eat. A large (like, massive) rolled crepe made from fermented lentils and rice is filled with spicy mashed potatoes and served with sambhar, a soup made especially for dipping your dosa. Sweet coconut and savory tomato chutneys are also served alongside for your dunking pleasure. 26 E St, SLC, 801-203-3325; 1098 W. South Jordan
O’Falafel Etc.
487-7747, ofalafeletc.com
Saffron Valley
Parkway, South Jordan, 801-438-4823, saffronvalley.com Devour Utah • May 2017 39
NOW OPEN MONDAYS
TONA SUSHI BAR AND GRILL tonarestaurant.com 2013 - 2016
BOSS 2016
Best Odgen Restaurant
2015 & 2016
2012 - 2016
210 25th Street, Ogden • (801) 622-8662 • facebook.com/tonasushi
4670 S. 2300 E. HOLLADAY MONDAY-FRIDAY 6AM-8PM SATURDAY 6AM-9PM SUNDAY 7AM-6PM
www.3cups.coffee 385-237-3091 40 Devour Utah • May 2017
10
Mac and cheese at Vertical Diner
Mac and Cheese Vertical Diner
It’s genius is its simplicity: Tender al dente noodles are slathered in a creamy cheese sauce that just happens to be vegan. Topped with a sprinkling of crunchy panko, each forkful is divine. Order a glass of chardonnay, toast to your good taste and tuck into a bowl of your childhood favorite. You sure won’t miss the orange food coloring. 234 W. 900 South, SLC, 801-484-8378, verticaldiner.com
Enmoladas Red Iguana
Red Iguana offers plenty of intriguing vegan and vegetarian options. Try the enmoladas, corn tortillas stuffed with refried beans and slathered with mole negro, rich with flavors of Mexican chocolate, walnuts, banana and dried chile mulato. Pickled red onions add a bright pop on top. This dish can be made vegan, too: just skip the queso fresco and cotija—it’s every bit as heavenly sans cheese. 736 W. North Temple, SLC, 801-322-1489; Red Iguana 2, 866 W. South Temple, SLC, 801-214-6050, rediguana.com
Devour Utah • May 2017 41
10
Bun tofu chay at Pho Saigon Noodle House
Bun Tofu Chay
Street Tofu
The vegetarian options at Pho Saigon Noodle House do not disappoint. Bun tofu chay is a light, refreshing dish perfect for a hot day. This noodle salad consists of chilled vermicelli noodles, sprouts, onions, carrots and fresh lettuce served with hearty stir-fried lemongrass tofu. Sheets of crispy soy add extra crunch. Take it one step further by adding curry or make it extra spicy, your choice. 4907 S.
This quick, contemporary, casual spot is popular with those trying to eat healthier but still wanting to enjoy “fast” food. Even if you’re a tofu-phobe, you’ll love the Street Tofu at Mollie and Ollie. Five strips of sesamecrusted crispy tofu are stacked like Jenga pieces, then drizzled with housemade spicy aioli, sweet soy sauce and sprinkled with green onions. Not only is this appetizer delicious, but dished up in geometric shapes with colorful drizzles, it’s also a work of art. 159 S. Main, SLC, 801-328-
Pho Saigon Noodle House
State, Murray, 801-590-8277; 2222 W. 3500 South, West Valley City, 801-746-7684
Mollie and Ollie
5659, mollieandollie.com 42 Devour Utah • May 2017
ALMOST AS SWEET AS YOUR MAMA
801.485.1031 | 2057 E. 3300 S. | FINECANDIES.COM Devour Utah • May 2017 43
GRAND OPENING MAY 25TH 50% OFF ENTIRE MENU• DRINK SPECIALS 6AM-1AM
110 West Broadway | 385.259.0574 | carnegiespublichouse.com
44 Devour Utah • May 2017
10
NEW CLIENT SPECIAL - $53 ONE-MONTH UNLIMITED
WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR?
TRX • Pilates • Yoga • Infrared Sauna VISIT WEBSITE FOR CLASS SCHEDULE!
WWW.THEPOINTPILATES.COM
801.940.0928 | 2560 S Main St. SLC Vegan joke at Chabaar Beyond Thai
Tasting Plate Oasis Café
Oasis Café was one of Salt Lake’s first spots to offer inventive vegan fare, and years later, it’s still one of the best places to get your veggies on. The Tasting Plate is a study in the delicious. Flavors cover a range that includes savory hummus, sweet eggplant caponata, tart olive tapenade and refreshing marinated cucumber noodles served with both grilled pita and ciabatta bread. If you’re indecisive or just crave a bit of everything, the Tasting Plate will surely satisfy. 151 S. 500 East, SLC, 801-322-0404, oasiscafeslc.com
Vegan Joke
Chabaar Beyond Thai
Looking for a unique way to begin the day? Kick it off with a hefty traditional Thai breakfast. Joke is a comforting dish of savory porridge made with boiled rice topped with tasty cubes of fried tofu. A medley of aromatic veggies add flavor and texture, but ginger and cilantro win the show. Although it’s excellent anytime, I especially recommend this dish if you’re feeling under the weather; it’s the perfect pick-me-up. 87 W. 7200 South, Midvale, 801-566-5100, annystakeonthai.com/chabaar
❖ Devour Utah • May 2017 45
Any Way You
Machine Gun sandwich at Bruges Waffles & Frites
!
Salt Lake’s Sensational Sandwiches s a kid, my older brother invented a sandwich that soon became a staple snack in our home. It consisted of two slices of white bread, creamy peanut butter and a few handfuls of barbecue potato chips. It was one of those maniacal inventions of an adolescent brain, but this culinary abomination made me cognizant of two very important things. One, sweet and savory can totally be friends; and two, sandwiches have limitless potential. As an adult, I’ve been privileged to track down several eateries that seem to share my reverence for the humble sandwich. Here are a few of my favorites.
46 Devour Utah • May 2017
DEREK CARLISLE
A
By Alex Springer
Machine Gun Bruges Waffles & Frites
In theory, mashing a bunch of fries into a sandwich seems like a simple way to create an offbeat treat. It’s something many sandwich slingers try, but few of them are successful. The reason most of these carb-laden sandwiches fail is because their creators see fries for what they are instead of what they can be. Not so at Bruges Waffles & Frites. In realizing the true potential of their frites as the essential cornerstone of this gun barrel-shaped wonder, Bruges has crafted a sandwich that is exponentially greater than the sum of its parts. Multiple locations, brugeswaffles.com
Beef Brisket Grilled Cheese The Hoss
Sweet Lake Biscuits & Limeade
There’s not a lot one can do to improve a classic grilled cheese sandwich, but leave it to Gourmandise to try— and succeed. It’s a traditional French bakery, so their cheese game is a cut above the rest. After that first, perfectly crisp bite of molten Havarti cheese, pulled brisket and pickled onions, you immediately wonder why all grilled cheese sandwiches are doing it wrong. Maybe they left out the meat? 250 S. 300 East, 801-328-3330, gourmandisethebakery.com
In the grand design of the breakfast Venn diagram that hangs in my kitchen, The Hoss at Sweet Lake Biscuits & Limeade has come closest to hitting the center sweet spot. You want biscuits and gravy? You got it. You want fried chicken? Done. Bacon and eggs more your thing? Look no further. My recommendation is to assess this monument of breakfast engineering for a vulnerable entry point, and then band together with fork and knife for a lengthy (but delicious) sandwich-eating campaign. 54 W. 1700 South, 801-997-9220, sweetlake.madebeforedawn.com
The Hoss at Sweet Lake Biscuits & Limeade
DEREK CARLISLE
Gourmandise
Devour Utah • May 2017 47
BREAKFAST • LUNCH • DINNER
SPIRITS • WINE • BEER
NEIGHBORHOOD
T WO
LOCA L
LOCATIONS
353 West 200 South,
161 West 900 South,
SLC, UT
SLC, UT
801.521.2106
801.924-0939
7am-midnight Mon-Sat; 10am-10pm Sunday
48 Devour Utah • May 2017
Fresh • Healing • Patio Dining Moab: 20 S. Main Monticello: 516 N. Main 435-259-0101 435-587-5063
www.PeaceTreeCafe.com
JOHN TAYLOR
10
The Grove Market’s Big John
Barbecue Chicken Sub The Pie
The Pie is the cornerstone of Utah’s pizza community, but their subs are worth the trip away from the pizza menu. Take the barbecue chicken sub, for example. Like The Pie’s pizzas, it doesn’t skimp on toppings, which consist of a disarmingly simple mix of grilled chicken breast, barbecue sauce that sidesteps the trap of being too sweet, and a healthy dose of melted mozzarella cheese. Multiple locations, thepie.com
Big John
The Grove Market & Deli Not for the faint of heart, the Big John is the Mount Everest of local deli sandwiches. Even at half capacity, this is a sandwich that is just as likely to eat you as you are to eat it. It’s piled high with all seven of The Grove’s deli meats, along with two kinds of cheese (Swiss and American), lettuce, tomato, pickles, mayo and mustard. It’s a delicious fight to pick, just make sure you know what you’re getting into. 1906 S. Main, 801-467-8860, grovemarketdeli.com Devour Utah • May 2017 49
10
Cubano Chop City
DEREK CARLISLE
There’s a reason this sandwich took home a blue ribbon at the Utah State Fair. From the moment you pick it up, it’s got this lovely heft that makes you feel as though you’ve made a new friend. I’ve had several Cubanos that got squashed by a heavy-handed panini press, but this one is so full of classic ham, roast pork, Swiss cheese and pickles that it presses right back. facebook.com/chopcityslc
Chop City’s Cubano
DEREK CARLISLE
Oh Mai’s Sunny Side Up banh mi
Barbacoa Sandwich
Sunny Side Up Egg
Buds is part of a welcome movement creating vegan-friendly diner food, and bless them for doing so. It’s tough to go wrong with their menu, but the barbacoa sandwich stands out with its creative use of grilled jackfruit to emulate the pork in the traditional meat-filled version. This delectable meat impostor is cooked with chipotle barbecue sauce, and it all comes packed with a flavorful samba of black beans, fresh guacamole and ginger sour cream. It’s the kind of vegan food that succeeds in making the diner pause and ask, “What’s so great about meat anyway?” 509 E. 300 South, budsslc.com
Oh Mai was where I tried my very first banh mi, and I’ve become quite attached to the place over the years. Their menu boasts several excellent studies in Vietnamese sandwich culture, but the one that always brings me the most comfort is the Sunny Side Up Egg. Maybe it’s the fondness I developed for fried-egg sandwiches during my formative years, but throwing a couple over-hard eggs on their tasty housemade baguettes and dressing them up in pickled veggies, cilantro and jalapeños wins me over every time. Multiple locations, ohmaisandwich.com
Buds Sandwich Co.
50 Devour Utah • May 2017
Oh Mai Vietnamese Sandwich Kitchen
The Gouda Smoker at The Robin’s Nest
10
Roast Pork Este Deli
I don’t remember whether it was the roast pork shoulder or the sautéed broccoli rabe with tart provolone that made me take a gamble on the roast pork sandwich at Este Deli, but it was that lucky shot in the dark that turned me into a regular. It’s a unifying experience between Southern flavor and East Coast deli that I have yet to experience anywhere else. 1702 S. Main, 801-4873354, estepizzaco.com
The Gouda Smoker
DEREK CARLISLE
The Robin’s Nest
Gouda is a criminally undervalued and underused cheese in the deli world, which might be why the Gouda Smoker at The Robin’s Nest is so special. It’s a turkey club slathered in a melty layer of smoked Gouda cheese which melds magnificently with the house garlic barbecue spread. It’s proof that Gouda really does prevail against evil. 311 S. Main, 801-466-6378, robinsnestslc.com ❖
Host your next private event with us!
282 S 300 W • Salt Lake City • (801) 328-3463 • toscanaslc.com Devour Utah • May 2017 51
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
H
onoring Utah’s restaurant community: The Utah restaurant industry prides itself on giving impeccable customer experiences. Restaurant professionals endeavor to provide exceptional food, service and elevate any holiday, special occasion and make lasting memories for our guests. The month of May plays host tothe 2017 Utah Restaurant Association’s Annual Restaurant Industry Awards Gala where for thelast 74 years the restaurant
52 Devour Utah • May 2017
community has proudly honored the outstanding and hardworking industry professionals as well as those who provide goods and services to restaurants. OnTuesday, May 16, 2017 the URAin partnership with Devour Utah Magazine present this years Gala event with recipients being honored with the “URA Heart Of The Industry Awards”, “Restaurateur of the Year”, “Lifetime Achievement Award”, “New Restaurant Concepts of The Year”, “ProStart Regional and State Championship Awards”,
“Taste Utah Awards” and “TeenChef Pro Awards”. This isan evening where we share in the inspiration of serving others and being a part of larger community. In partnership with Devour Utah, the Utah Restaurant Association invites all industry professionals and food enthusiast to attend; yes, YOU are invited. The evening will see awards given tonew restaurants and established, former employees, future industry all-stars and everyone in between. For tickets visit www.UtahRestaurantAssociation.
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
May 16 th
6PM - 8:30PM Grand Ballroom, Grand America Hotel 555 Main St, Salt Lake City, UT 84101
The Utah Restaurant Association in partnership with Devour Utah is pleased to host the 2017 Utah Restaurant Industry Awards.
For Sponsorship opportunities contact:
Katy Sine
katy@UtahRestaurantAssociation.org
Jami Larson
jami@UtahRestaurantAssociation.org
Jackie Briggs jbriggs@cityweekly.net
org or DevourUtah.com. In these pages, we’re also celebrating three remarkable women who are inspiring and leading the way in Utah restaurants. Their contributions to the restaurant community emphasize a commitment to hospitality, food education and hosting each guest like a member of their family. These ladies lead the way and inspire men and women alike within Utah’s restaurant community. Finally, we’re honoring and introducing the 12 Chef competitors and their big dreams, chosen
Do Not Miss This Extraordinary Evening Celebrating Utah's restaurant Of Dining And Celebration Utah’s industry leaders through Restaurant Industry. nominations selected by their Purchase your tickets today at
UtahRestaurantAssociation.org or DevourUtah.com to compete in Taste For The Space. They’ll combine their own unique food experience in one taste, giving Utah the choice to make one chefs dream come true. One chef willwin a restaurant space for free for 6 months along with financial support to open their very own restaurant. As the Utah Restaurant Association we honor individual restaurants, the people, the guests and the businesses that contribute toour food community but more importantly we honor each other.
peers, the annual award ceremony has honored food service professionals for the last 30 years, past winners are among the elite of restaurant professionals ranging from fast-casual to fine dine. Attendees and honorees will include Utah ProStart students, restaurant owners, notable vendors, exemplary employees, industry professionals, food contributors, Taste Utah, TeenChef Pro and associated industries. Devour Utah • May 2017 53
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
Amy Stevenoni Veneto SLC
Amy along with her husband Marco own and operate Veneto SLC located on 900 South. The restaurant was years in the making and a passion project for the two. Veneto’s mission to bring the food, wine and culture of the Veneto region of Italy to Salt Lake City is definitely succeeding. Dining at Veneto is hands down one of the most authentic Italian dining experiences in Utah. The dynamic mastery of Marco’s execution of family recipes in the kitchen is paired perfectly with Amy’s commitment to hospitality, impeccable attention to detail and warmth is the Veneto experience. It is Amy’s smiling face that often greets each guest at the door and stops by each table at opportune moments throughout the evening. Marco’s ability to bring authentic Italian cuisine to the table is equaled by the emphasis Amy places on importance of each guests experience and the ambiance. Being in Veneto is like being in Amy and Marco’s home and everyone who enters is hosted as such. The dining room is intimate and adorned with furniture, place setting and artwork that each have a story and an intention. Amy’s love of art and design and a deep appreciation for all things Northern Italian is abundant at Veneto and a feast for the eyes. Her commitment to food education through elevated dining experiences is impressive and it is her passion to share her love of good food, the Italian culture and create a gathering place for good people is inspiring!
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Amber Billingsly Amour Cafe:
Amber is the epitome of Butter-Sugar-Magic and a gift to the food community in Utah, especially dessert enthusiasts. Amber has graced many Utah restaurants with her talents over the course of the last 25 years of her career in the industry. A gifted culinary mind along with a talent for creating handcrafted pastries and gelato has given Amber a fiercely loyal following in Utah. Wherever she goes, her customers follow and grow in numbers. Love in the food is a part of every pastry Amber prepares, giving customers loads to savor. At the moment, Amber has teamed up with Amour Spreads to fill the pastry shelves there with her decadent array of treats at Amour Cafe in SLC. From cakes, to pinwheels, cookies and savory scones — Amber provides the perfect conduit to showcase Amour’s many artisanal jams. It is her unique ability to complement any dish, any meal, any experience that makes her talent so distinctly versatile. Allowing room for creativity and collaboration through food is particularly important to her, as Amber continues to be a catalyst for the Slow Foods movement in Utah as well as an advocate for local Utah companies. Though being a strong female in the kitchen is not always easy, Amber has continually provided a combination of a steady backbone and grace under pressure. It’s these qualities and many more that has Amber inspiring the next generation of female chef professional.
Margo Provost Log Haven:
Margo is Log Haven’s Owner and Operator. As a female restaurateur Margo, has a distinctive talent for recognizing potential. When she first saw what is now listed among elite dining guides as one of the most romantic restaurants, Log Haven had been left in disrepair, dilapidated and uncared for. Margo saw a vision for a space that could provide a guest three very important needs: nature, nurture and nourishment. She saw a restaurant that could offer a welcomed respite from the bustle of the city and provide each guest with warm fires, wilderness and waterfalls. And with that, having no experience in the restaurant industry, and Log Haven was born. Every guest that walks into Log Haven is and cared for as if they were a guest in her home. The cross-stitched artwork that adorns the walls of the restaurant comes from her own hands. The shelves in the “Library Room” in the north east wing of the restaurant are filled with the books she has read and are available for check out. The seats are comfy, the views spectacular and the fireplace always lit. The patio in summertime is comfortable and unassuming, reminiscent of a family members home where there is no rush to leave and only the encouragement to linger as long as you like. Margo has entrenched herself in the Utah restaurant community as an advocate for local and independently run Utah restaurants. She’s never been afraid to give back, even serving as Chairwoman of the Board of Directors for the Utah Restaurant Association and representing Utah as a Board Member of the National Restaurant Association. Margo continues to lead the way for women in restaurants and provided mentorship all along the way. She leaves guests, friends and colleagues alike always feeling as though they were right where they belong.
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
at the
TABLE Real Utah business, real Utah stories, real Utah insight served in a unique platform, at The Table. No reservation necessary. We are leaving it all on the table. COMING SOON TO
The Utah Restaurant Association is proud to announce the latest addition to www.TasteUT.com…
TASTE PARK CITY.
Taste Park City is an area specific dining guide featuring 25 of Park City areas hottest restaurants in 4 distinct dining districts:
1. HISTORIC MAIN STREET 2. PROSPECTOR 3. KIMBALL JUNCTION
!
Taste Park City
4. THE RESORTS
HISTORIC MAIN STREET Yuki Yama Sushi
KIMBALL JUNCTION Myrtle Rose
P
RK CITY
PROSPECTOR Windy Ridge Bakery
RESORTS The Farm
The Taste Park City section of Taste Utah’s website also includes an exclusive see-it-foryourself video foreach restaurant. Meet the chef behind the cuisine, tantalize your tastebuds with a signature cocktail and discover why Park City is a your next dining destination. Only 32 miles east of Salt Lake City, we dare you to fall in love with this international dining destination all over again.
Trust us, dining at elevation will look good on you.
Be sure to #TasteParkCity on all your Park City restaurant food photos to have the instantly featured on the TasteParkCity website.
Devour Utah • May 2017 55
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
My Food. My Taste.
G
et fired up for a culinary cook off as food trucks, local restaurateurs and chefs compete to win an Dining Terrace Space at The Shops at South Town. Taste your way through Utah’s best culinary professionals as they show Salt Lake their signature dish and why their taste should win the space. Families friends and foodies are all invited to taste all twelve competitors bites and help the judges panel decide who is the ultimate Taste For The Space Winner. Get to know these inspiring chef’s through their cuisine and vision and we will see you on Saturday May 6, 2017 for the first completion of it’s kind in Utah.
This Is A Free Event. Live Music. Kids Activities. Family Fun. The Shops at South Town • May 6th • Noon- 4PM For Event Tickets Visit: www.shopsatsouthtown.com
Chef Jerry Liedtke Tin Angel Cafe
My Taste: American, European, Middle Eastern My Dream: The Tin Angel is a lively, welcoming, locally driven café where the rituals of dining are lovingly balanced with a practiced, irreverent and creative culinary palate. Our vision is to create a connection between people and their community using food as the catalyst.
Chef JohnGun Kim CupBop
My Taste: Korean BBQ in a cup My Dream: We want to grow up as a company never stopping to improve food and service and introducing warm loving Korean culture to as many people as we meet in the world.
Chef Paolo Antelio Arancini Snack
My Taste: Sicilian Italian My Dream: I would like to expand throughout the United States, and to open at least 10 locations in every state starting with Utah. I want to be well known and with good reputation to help the economy of the communities.
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Chef James Veylupek Special Courses
My Taste: American My Dream: We want to become a franchise that is a completely veteran owned business model. The experience we provide customers is unique and the food delicious. We attract those that take pride in America. We donate time and food in support of veteran organizations.
Chef Jeremy Sidwell Just Kebabs
My Taste: Turkish / European Doner Kababs My Dream: The Doner Kebab in Europe is about the culture of quick, fun food with friends and family, in a fresh, healthy way. For those who have experienced Kebabs on their vacations to Europe, it is an experience they remember and long for when they return home - we give them the opportunity to experience those feelings again in Utah.
Chef Seunghwan Kim Sushi Be Rollin
My Taste: Sushi My Dream: Our vision is to create an experience that can not be achieved elsewhere. We want to share our passion for food and create delightful experiences with all of our customers. We want to break the cultural barrier of food by creating items that can be enjoyed by people of all ages and culture.
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
Chef Fernando Velazquez La Salsita Grill
My Taste: Mexican food My Dream: The food truck has been a good business for the past two years and we are ready to grow.
Chef Jeffrey Sanich Watercress
My Taste: American contemporary My Dream: World domination through the culinary arts.
Chef Kimmo Fat Kid Mac n Cheese
My Taste: American gourmet macaroni and cheese My Dream: Put the great state of Utah on the map for having the greatest mac’n cheese on earth.
Chef Vini Joseph/Cafe India SLC
My Taste: Indian, a blend of Northern & Southern influence. My Dream: Our vision at Cafe India is to create a unique, comfortable environment where our guests enjoy our Indian fusion cuisine in relaxed environment. Each customer will be greeted with a friendly smile and served with customer delight in mind. We pride ourselves on our sourcing farm to table ingredients that yield high quality and a consistently tasty meal.
Chef Eddee Johansen Yoshi’s Japanese Grill
My Taste: Asian offering sushi, rice bowls, soups and salads My Dream: To keep growing. We are the best fast casual concept featuring rice bowls and sushi. Time to let a wide audience know.
Chef Colby Hall/Vessel My Taste: American. All food is served in a bowl: pasta, acai, rice and fresh salads My Dream: Good food can change people. I want to change others, impact people’s health and have a strong influence on the local food scene. We are about promoting healthy lifestyles and helping others less fortunate than myself.
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Last Bite
Why Our Local Food Shops Matter By Vanessa Chang
W
hen it comes to food, convenience shouldn’t always trump experience. For all its faults and addictive qualities, Facebook can be quite the tool. It can bring together the likes of cheese professionals (there is such a thing) to rhapsodize about a wheel from a respected producer, or troubleshoot inventory and storage issues for a business wanting to do things right. It’s a convenient way to connect. It can also signal when there’s trouble. I came across a thread on such a community page. It read simply: “2017 sucks.” Business, it seems, isn’t going on as usual. Several replies ensued. Was it the election? The weather? Brexit? Exchange rates? The answers could be any and all of these and more. But from the shop owners and food lovers who dove into the business of feeding people, the underlying cause was clear. “People aren’t shopping at my place as much as they used to.” The folks cited big box-stores starting to carry more specialty items like cheese or organic fruits. No doubt, the age of instant and automatic gratification by way of Amazon Prime makes it less of a need to talk to someone over a counter. Meal kit or meal prep delivery services bypass the chore of shopping all together. We covet convenience. And for good reason. It helps get shit done and take care of others. And lately, convenience of eating has also meant something other than microwaved burritos or questionable hot dogs. But maybe in our worship of one-click, one-stop life, we’re shorting ourselves on the value of experiences. Food is a sensory thing. Beyond whether we like a slice of prosciutto or drizzle of olio nuovo from Tuscany, we are also heavily influenced by where we taste something and with whom. Supermarkets try to influence us in a matter of seconds. The internet, virtually and instantly, assures that my multivitamins arrive like clockwork every month. But we’re creatures of habit. And it could do us a bit of good to put forth some weekly effort to venture out into the mom-and-pop shops in our neighborhoods to listen, learn and taste. These shops truly offer the choicest cuts and shape how we eat and think about food. For me, life in SLC would never have been the same had I not known about places like Caputo’s Market downtown. It’s the mother ship, where one can smell fresh white truffles for the first time, or hear Matt Caputo wax poetic about an oil that tastes as if an olive tree punched you in the face. Liberty Heights Fresh is the place for the amazing produce that ushers in each
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season—Cunningham citrus in the gray winter months, Sun River tomatoes during long summer days. That’s why I thank LHF owner Steven Rosenberg. Les Madeleines provided my first ever taste of kouing aman. The hard to pronounce but easy to eat pastry is like edible crack, and pastry chef Romina Rasmussen has and forever will be my preferred dealer. I frequent Caffe d’Bolla for siphon brew that’s worthy of science experiments and straight-up sipping. I could listen to John Piquet talk all day about his roasting methods and his views on coffee sourcing. These venues and others like it require a bit of effort to get to. You must learn to leave your computer and get off the smart phone. And often, these are the sources of new love affairs with delectable foods you thought you couldn’t even pronounce (whatever your political views, they will make 2017 suck less). A mild Inconvenience, but so well worth it. ❖
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