Devour Utah June 2017

vol. 3 no. 6 • June 2017 • explore

BeaUTAH-Ful Respite P. 14 Exploring Asian Greens p. 22

Distillery Destinations p. 44

Wasatch Back Bounty p. 34

It’s time to

Utah Restaurant Association page 52

Devour Utah • June 2017 1

2 Devour Utah • June 2017

Devour Utah • June 2017 3

Contents 10 14 20 22

Raising the Bar Rib-sticking bar bites

BY HEATHER L. KING

Bea-UTAH-Ful Respite

Relishing Red Mountain Resort

BY JOANNE MILLER

The Spread

Log Haven Restaurant

BY AIMEE L. COOK

Exploring Asian Greens Getting out of a vegetable rut

BY JEN HILL

4 Devour Utah • June 2017

26 34 44

That’s Amore

10 regional Italian restaurant dishes

BY AIMEE L. COOK

Bounty of the Wasatch Back Flavor off the beaten path

BY MAYA SILVER

Distillery Destinations Boozy tastings and tours

BY DARBY DOYLE

58 66

Tinwell

A visit to SLC’s newest bar

BY CHELSEA NELSON

Last Bite

Exploring Old World fare in our backyard

BY MICHAEL FELDMAN

Devour Utah • June 2017 5

DEVOUR

Contributors STAFF Publisher JOHN SALTAS Editorial Editor Copy Editor Proofreader Contributors

Photographers

TED SCHEFFLER SARAH ARNOFF LANCE GUDMUNDSEN AIMEE L. COOK, DARBY DOYLE, MICHAEL FELDMAN, JEN HILL, HEATHER L. KING, JOANNE MILLER, CHELSEA NELSON, MAYA SILVER NIKI CHAN, JOHN TAYLOR, JOSH SCHEUERMAN

Nomadic Aussie scribe and pragmatic hedonist, Joanne Miller (aka The Word Surgeon) confesses to a dependence on fine French bubbles, stinky blue cheese and furry faces (think animals and less-hirsute males). This amateur shutterbug/ wannabe ballerina finds wonderment exploring her ever-changing surroundings.

Production Art Director Assistant Art Director Graphic Artists

DEREK CARLISLE BRIAN PLUMMER JOSH SCHEUERMAN, VAUGHN ROBISON

Business/Office Accounting Manager Office Administrator Technical Director

PAULA SALTAS ANNA KASER BRYAN MANNOS

Michael Feldman and his wife, Janet—both from New Jersey—are owners of Feldman’s Deli. Michael spent most of his career in Utah’s biotech industry.

Both he and Janet enjoy good food, miss the food they grew up with and are fans of the many new restaurants Salt Lake City now has to offer.

Marketing Marketing Manager

JACKIE BRIGGS

Circulation Circulation Manager

LARRY CARTER

Sales Magazine Advertising Director Newsprint Advertising Director Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives

JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF PETE SALTAS ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER LISA DORELLI, JEREMIAH SMITH

Maya Silver likes to write almost as much as she likes to eat. When she’s not doing either of those things, she’s biking, baking or working on environmental issues as a master’s candidate at the University of Utah.

Cover Photo: Fireside on Regent’s tarragon lemon fettuccini by John Taylor Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email editor at Ted@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com

Copperfield Publishing Copyright 2017. All rights reserved @DevourUtah

6 Devour Utah • June 2017

@DevourUtah

@DevourUtah

Salt Lake City native Chelsea Nelson is passionate about living local. She writes a food and cocktail blog, Heartbeat Nosh. By day, she is a digital marketing guru for a local nonprofit, but she loves adventuring with her family most of all.

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HOME-GROWN VEGETABLES ALL SUMMER LONG! Devour Utah • June 2017 7

Envelope Pushing the An urge to explore

T

he urge to explore is central to the human condition, and we’ve been pushing boundaries ever since leaving our ancient homo sapien roots in East Africa, some 50,000 to 100,000 years ago. During that time, we’ve dispersed throughout our planet and have begun to explore other ones. We’re a curious lot, and the possibility of discovery is a driving force for so many of us.

Thus, we bring you this issue of Devour Utah, dedicated to exploration, albeit in more modest proportions than, say, space exploration.

Those of us hankering for a European vacation this summer, but who lack the funds to make it happen, can take a vicarious stroll through Italy via Aimee L. Cook’s exploration of local restaurants serving Italian regional dishes, while Maya Silver encourages readers to discover off-the-beaten-path eateries of the Wasatch Back.

Libation lovers will enjoy Darby Doyle’s gumshoe work, exploring Utah distilleries from Ogden and Layton to Wanship and Sugar House. Meanwhile, Chelsea Nelson zeroes in on a new SLC watering hole: Tinwell. Heather L. King rounds up some rib-sticking bar bites for your noshing pleasure.

Anyone in need of a restful retreat would do well to look at BeaUTAHful Respite—Joanne Miller’s blow-by-blow account of an energizing getaway to gorgeous Red Mountain Resort near St. George. Closer to home, serene and secluded Log Haven restaurant—tucked away in Millcreek Canyon—is the topic of this month’s “The Spread.”

In a vegetable rut? Explore exotic Asian greens with Jen Hill, who sings the praises of delicious produce like gai lan, bok choy, snow pea shoots and more, even offering up a tasty, vegan, organic baby bok choy stir fry recipe.

Here’s hoping you enjoy exploring this issue of Devour as much as we enjoyed making it. ❖ —Ted Scheffler Editor

8 Devour Utah • June 2017

TED SCHEFFLER

Spaghetti alla carbonara at Sicilia Mia

Devour Utah • June 2017 9

RAISING THE bar Four favorite rib-sticking bar bites.

By Heather L. King Photos by Josh Scheuerman

Call them tapas, appetizers or snacks, a tasty bite with your summertime beer or cocktail at your favorite watering hole can really make a night or afternoon out, complete with great memories of the gastronomic kind. Here’s a quartet of bar bites that will whet your whistle without emptying your wallet.

Steamed Bun $5

Under Current Known for its craft cocktails, with its bites menu coming from the shared kitchen with Current Fish & Oyster, Under Current offers refined bar food that keeps patrons coming back for more. Try one of the pillowy steamed buns filled with your choice of luscious soysake roasted pork belly, kicky fried chicken or hoisin-glazed mushrooms paired with a handcrafted drink for an evening to remember.

Under Current 279 S. 300 East, SLC 801-574-2556 undercurrentbar.com 10 Devour Utah • June 2017 10 Devour Utah • June 2017

Fried Mormon Funeral Potatoes $8

The Garage on Beck Available in original, fiery or veggie versions, The Garage takes this Mormon funeral staple and turns it on its head. Rounds of shredded potatoes, loads of cheddar cheese and crunchy bacon are rolled in cornflake crust before being baptized in hot oil. The fiery offering contains fresh habañero verde while the veggie choice swaps out bacon for sautéed vegetables. All are served with Utahworthy ranch dressing for dipping.

Garage on Beck 1199 Beck St., SLC 801-521-3904 garageonbeck.com

Devour Utah • June 2017 11 Devour Utah • June 2017 11

Deviled Eggs $8

Whiskey Street What signals a summertime party better than deviled eggs? Head over to Whiskey Street for a rendition with plenty of kick and class. Creamy pimento cheese yolks are dressed with crispy double-smoked bacon, pickled mustard seed for tang, and then sprinkled with bourbon-smoked paprika and fresh chive.

It’s a rich and decadent bar bite perfect for sharing and pairing with a whiskey, wine or beer.

Whiskey Street 323 S. Main, SLC 801-433-1371 whiskeystreet.com

Queso Dip $6

East Liberty Tap House Soak up the 9th and 9th scene on the patio at East Liberty Tap House this summer while noshing on hot and melty queso dip made with white cheddar cheese and studded with Serrano chiles.

Make a meal of it for just $4 more by loading it up with ancho pulled pork and a creamy avocado purée, plus accompanying tortilla chips. ❖ East Liberty Tap House 850 E. 900 South, SLC 801-441-2845 eastlibertytaphouse.com

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270 South Rio Grande St. In the Historic Rio Grande Train Station www.riograndecafeslc.com Devour Utah • June 2017 13

Bea-

-Ful Relishing Southern Utah’s Red Mountain Resort

S

outhern Utah’s awe-inspiring vermilion cliffs and canyons never get old. Their brilliant presence on the horizon signals the start of a much anticipated four-day retreat at Red Mountain Resort (RMR), just eight miles west of downtown St. George.

RMR is a relaxing adventure retreat. It might sound contradictory but there is zero pressure or obligation to move swiftly or partake in daily biking, hiking, yoga and fitness classes. You’re invited to be as active or idle as you please.

Participate, spectate or just be. The choice is yours with no judgment. Everyone is on a personal journey and as I quickly discover, most resort guests are regulars. One fellow diner at the community table—a place where solo travelers are encouraged to dine if seeking company—shares that she is visiting from the East Coast for her 14th consecutive year of “me time.”

14 Devour Utah • June 2017

by Joanne Miller | Photos courtesy of RMR

Animal Magnetism Upon my arrival, I’m immediately ushered into in a waiting van driven by a flaming-haired, bandana-wearing free spirit named Rhonda. We’re supposed to be heading west to a ranch for the Meet the Mustangs experience, but I can’t help but wonder if Rhonda might have other plans—like a road trip to Coachella, and that would have been OK with me. Before too long, we arrive at the ranch and meet Joan Bell—an East Coast native who traded suits and heels for chambray shirts and boots. She introduces me to the band of mustangs and I’m captivated by their grace, strength and innate trust of the small group of hardworking women who volunteer to care for them. After touring the ranch and witnessing the mustangs frolicking within a large enclosure, I’m introduced to First Star and our connection is instantaneous, as Bell explains the subtle

Red Mountain Resort borders Snow Canyon State Park’s 7,400 acres of rugged wilderness.

art of horse whispering. I resist the temptation to question and follow Bell’s instructions to think of and feel certain situations and emotions. First Star responds accordingly. I’m astounded by his intuitive and sensitive nature. It’s as if we’ve known each other a lifetime instead of 30 minutes. He is magnificent, and I understand Bell’s devotion to caring for him and his brethren. Bell invites me to “heart hug” First Star, by squatting down and wrapping both arms around his neck, pressing my chest firmly against his and my cheek against his velvety face. He sighs deeply and I feel the overwhelming beat of his generously sized heart thud against mine. It’s a very powerful moment and I don’t want to leave the ring or say goodbye, but Bell insists; otherwise First Star will pine for me. I’m moved to tears as I bid him goodbye and First Star hangs his head low as I walk away.

The following morning’s excursion involves a visit to the local Ivins no-kill animal shelter to meet with and walk five lovable pooches in need of homes. In their excitement, the dogs lead us around the neighborhood, and we all fall in love, with my East Coast friend adopting one of the smaller dogs as a surprise for her husband. The shelter relies entirely on donations and Red Mountain Resort assists by promoting the collective efforts to its guests and the local community. The resort is considered one of the most pet-friendly fitness resorts in America, so bring your well-traveled furry, feathered or scaled friend for pampering and a change of scenery.

Rockin’ Out Later that day, I meet with Boma, a respected archaeologist who accompanies me to a sacred site to explain Native American agriculture and interpret various petroglyphs, or rock art. As we explore the area, we’re joined by other curious folk; interested in learning more about the indigenous art. Before too long, we’ve attracted quite the crowd.

If you’ve been meaning to explore the surreal landscapes of Bryce and Snow canyons or Zion and don’t know where to start, you’ve found your place and your people at RMR. Experienced and knowledgeable guides lead daily hikes catering to all abilities, from cautious beginners to nimble “mountain goats” (advanced hikers), keen to ascend the 1,500 feet up Angel’s Landing, teetering above Zion’s incredible terrain. Red Mountain Resort borders Snow Canyon State Park’s 7,400 acres, teeming with eagles, gaggles of outspoken cranes, hummingbirds, rabbits and Peregrine falcons. My first early morning walk at the resort was eventful in showcasing the wildlife.

As I power walked up to Canyon Breeze restaurant, anticipating a hearty breakfast, a watchful falcon zeroed in on an unsuspecting pigeon, obliterating and gorging on its prey at the doorstep. My appetite disappeared momentarily while I gained some insight into the animal kingdom and the food chain.

Devour Utah • June 2017 15

Mango mousse sorbet

JOANNE MILLER

Chicken entree served at Canyon Breeze Restaurant

Let’s Eat

So on that note, let’s delve into RMR’s food. All packages include three delicious, healthy meals per day.

The emphasis is on taste and nutrition to fuel you for your daily adventures, be they mountainside, poolside or exploring the spa’s extensive treatment menu. You won’t be subjected to copious servings of quinoa and kale, although both appear on the menu in flavorful interations. Red Mountain Resort is regarded as a retreat and not a “fat farm,” so you won’t go to bed feeling empty or fantasizing about carbs. All nutritional denominations are treated equally at RMR—there’s something for all vegans, vegetarians, detoxers and 16 Devour Utah • June 2017

followers of low-calorie/fat/sodium and dairy-/gluten-free diets. You can eat to your heart’s and belly’s content at the buffet-style breakfasts, lunches and three-course seasonal dinners. Tipples are encouraged, with a Californiancentric wine list that includes a few notable Argentinian, Aussie, French and Spanish vintages, as well as beers, spirits and daily cocktail specials. The desserts are decadent and “mindful,” meaning without dairy, gluten and sugar. They more than compensate in taste for what they lack in unnecessary additives, inflammatory and oft-vilified ingredients, triggering “I can’t believe it’s not butter”-style outcries in the beautiful Canyon Breeze dining room or out on the picturesque patio overlooking the mesa.

Canyon Counter is a lil’ go-to café for healthy and quick light meals if you’re timing is a lil’ off from the scheduled meals, or if you simply want to make tracks and start exploring. The Counter’s offerings include smoothies, salads, sandwiches, flatbread pizzas and hot or iced barista-made Caffe Ibis coffee.

The Happy Trails lunch of a chicken or hummus wrap with chips and bottled water is thoughtfully packed in an insulated bag—perfect for a hike in the canyons or a bike ride throughout the neighboring estates.

Chef for a Day is for those looking to elevate their kitchen prowess and nutritional know-how. You’ll spend a few hours in the Canyon Breeze restaurant with individualized focus. Perhaps you

Devour Utah • June 2017 17

Sagestone Spa

Massage for two

want to sharpen your knife skills, learn the basics of hearty soups, stocks and baking, or zero in on a preferred cuisine. I met with Executive Sous Chef Shelley Pulcini-Corso to prepare for dinner by assisting with three sauces to complement an Eggplant Napoleon dish. The featured sauces—arrabbiata, raw alfredo, vegan cashew alfredo and vegan arugula pesto—were surprisingly simple to create, using eight to 10 organic ingredients, yet each sauce was complex in taste and texture.

Tranquility & Transformation

Red Mountain Resort truly is a place where you needn’t leave the premises until departure day, other than venturing to the national parks and nearby galleries. Red Mountain Outfitters is the resort’s well-equipped onsite store, should you forget to pack that all-important hat, hiking shoes, sunscreen, or if Mother Nature does a 180 with the weather. Another welcomed RMR observance is the cell phone disconnect. Usage should only be in resort rooms to maintain a tranquil ambiance throughout 18 Devour Utah • June 2017

The Labyrinth

the grounds and to encourage true relaxation and connection.

Sagestone Spa is the place to be for Zen-like tranquility. The spa is split between three levels, with reception and the shop front at the top; the lounge and change rooms are on the second floor, and the treatment rooms are on the ground floor. Arrive early and linger longer post treatment in the lounge overlooking the stunning red cliffs, Inspiration Trail and the Labyrinth in the foreground. (Tip: book evening treatments, arriving a good hour prior to watch the sun set over the cliffs, while enjoying complimentary tea, juice and fresh fruit). I indulged in two relaxing massages and a facial during my stay with three adept and highly professional therapists.

After one last brisk early morning hike, I return to my villa and reluctantly pack my suitcase by the fireplace. I check out and pay my dues at the front desk. Following the concierge’s advice, I head to Xetava Café within the Kayenta community for a late lunch before my road trip home.

I’m seated within a cozy corner of the café’s inviting patio beneath a brilliant blue desert sky, framed by the mountains

Wild mustangs with cacti and succulents all around. Lanterns sway lazily overhead in the breeze as the Rolling Stones’ “Wild Horses” and Neil Young’s “Harvest Moon” play back-to-back. Both songs prove poignant, given my memorable mustang encounter and a three-night retreat that coincided with a harvest moon. (Bows head in gratitude to the universe.)

Xetava Café features organic and delicious food and drink, ensuring that locals and visitors keep returning for specialties such as gluten-free green curry mahi with Brussels sprouts.

For an enriching and rejuvenating experience, head south to Red Mountain Resort and explore Utah’s expansive southwest region. Quieter months are during the height of summer and winter—June through August and December through January. Children aged 12 years and above are welcome to participate in all activities. ❖

Red Mountain Resort 275 Red Mountain Circle, Ivins 435-673-4905 redmountainresort.com Devour Utah • June 2017 19

The

NIKI CHAN

pread S

20 Devour Utah • June 2017

Log

Korean fried cauliflower

Haven Nature is delicious here

FAITH SCHEFFLER

S

44 Farms filet mignon

FAITH SCHEFFLER

ituated among waterfalls, streams, hiking trails, mountains and trees in the Wasatch National Forest, Log Haven restaurant is deeply intertwined with nature. That symbiotic relationship is, in part, why owner Margo Provost coined the Log Haven slogan: “Nature is delicious here.”

Along with nature’s changing seasons come changes in menu offerings at Log Haven. Although Chef Dave Jones has been doing this for 20 years, he still finds it somewhat challenging. He is not a slave to food trends, as they tend to come and go very quickly, but creates dishes where he is able to source as many local ingredients as possible. And it takes him a few months of sitting at his kitchen table covered in cookbooks and notes to himself to get the menu exactly where he wants it.

Each of the restaurant’s dishes reflect the chef’s eclectic palate, along with his desire to serve something for everyone. From Asian influences like the Korean fried cauliflower, to good ol’ meat and potatoes, Chef Jones aims to please.

“I have some real simple dishes on the menu and I have more complicated dishes with exotic ingredients,” Jones says. “Being up in the mountains, we get a lot of out-of-towners and, as you can tell, the elk and bison are hit pretty heavy. I love ingredients, but I’m a pretty simple eater myself.”

Some of the newer dishes to explore are the grilled bison teres major steak with poblano chile grist, street corn salad, pico de gallo and Oaxacan chile demi glaze. It’s a good example of Jones’ multi-cultural approach to cooking, highlighting flavors of southern Mexico, in this instance.

Or, you can’t go wrong with the 44 Farms filet mignon with fontina-niçoise olive potatoes, vegetables, Rioja reduction and marrow butter. The filet is so tender; you can almost cut it with a fork. Prepared to your liking, this straightforward meat-and-potatoes dish is simply spectacular.

If you are fortunate enough to be dinning on a night that offers the diver scallops, by all means order them.

The perfectly seared morsels are served with charred Brussels sprouts, pomme frites and a lemon-peppercorn aioli. It is pretty much the perfect meatless plate. ❖

Arancini

—By Aimee L. Cook

NIKI CHAN

Log Haven 6451 E. Millcreek Canyon Road, SLC 801-272-8255 log-haven.com

Devour Utah • June 2017 21

EXPLORING

Getting out of your vegetable rut.

By Jen Hill

22 Devour Utah • June 2017

M

JOSH SCHEUERMAN

any of us are familiar with classic EuroAmerican-based vegetable crops such as kale, spinach, collard greens and chard.

But have you ever heard of gai lan? While the aforementioned traditional greens are fabulous and indispensable mainstays in most gardens and markets, the world has much more to offer. We have yet to discover the untapped potential of delectable vegetables out there—specifically Asian varieties of greens. So let’s take a look at some of the favorites that billions of other humans have steamed, stir-fried, chopped and prepared, and learn how to use and fully appreciate these specialty greens!

Napa Cabbage Napa cabbage probably is the Asian green that Americans are most familiar with, and is commonly found in standard markets. Of good size, napa or Chinese cabbage is oblong, with large white stalks and light green leaves. Considerably more tender and mild in flavor than the cabbages we are accustomed to, napa is spectacular when used in stir-fries and soups, and is also a tasty, crunchy addition in raw salads. It’s the key ingredient in the fermented and probioticpacked Korean salad, kimchi. Many local Asian markets and restaurants prepare and sell their own organic, housemade kimchi. If you aren’t brave enough to make some, do yourself the savory favor and purchase some spicy napa pickles at Koko Kitchen (702 S. 300 East, SLC), or the highly acclaimed housemade, packaged kimchi at the Oriental Food Market (667 S. 700 East, SLC) sometime soon.

While exchanging this summer’s gardening plans with vegetable grower Sohleng Wakema—a current Utah resident who was born in Singapore and raised in Australia—she suggested, “Why don’t you plant some Chinese broccoli this season?”

Chinese broccoli or gai lan, meaning “mustard orchid,” is actually is a close cousin to broccoli and kale. With thick, dark-green stalks and large leaves, it has a familiar broccoli taste but is slightly more bitter. Adding the Asian cruciferous gai lan to a sizzling stir-fry with garlic and oyster sauce is a savory dish—one you should relish exploring.

Devour Utah • June 2017 23

JOSH SCHEUERMAN

Gai lan: Chinese broccoli

24 Devour Utah • June 2017

JOSH SCHEUERMAN

Pea shoots You most likely are familiar with an array of peas, and enjoy their sweet, crisp snap in a pod, steamed in various dishes, as a side with a dollop of melted butter, or mixed into mashed potatoes. The most common variety found on American shelves and bagged in freezers is the “garden” or “English pea,” which, albeit common, is undeniably a standard go-to vegetable.

I eat my peas with honey; I’ve done it all my life.

It makes the peas taste funny, But it keeps them on the knife.

-Unknown Forgoing the fruit of the pea plant, let’s consider its undervalued shoot. Once a pea is in the ground and just past its first true seed or cotyledon leaves, the first 2-4 inches of growth is considered the shoot, and can be then cut and used in any number of tasty ways. The shoots of snow peas or sugar snap peas have hollow stems with tender leaves and delicate tendrils. They have a mild, fresh flavor, which can be tossed into stir-fried dishes with garlic, as a garnish on soups, or eaten raw in salads.

Bok Choy: Chinese white cabbage Found in either its mature or baby form, bok choy is popular enough that it can be found in most grocery markets. Fully mature, it has bright white stems with dark-green leaves; baby bok choy is smaller with stems and leaves that are bright light-green. Mature bok choy can be deliciously prepared in a hot sizzling wok. At Oh Mai (multiple locations, ohmaisandwich. com), they prepare Vietnamese pho, which is a rich and flavorful broth (vegan options available) with noodles, sprouts and basil and is complemented perfectly with baby bok choy.

From fresh pea shoots to napa cabbage, the Salt Lake Downtown Farmers Market, Wheeler Farm and Park City farmers markets as well as local CSA (community supported agriculture) businesses are sustainable sources to supply our communities with the freshest, and often organic, options when it comes to finding Asian greens.

“Educating the consumer plays a big part of appreciating these specialty greens,” says local urban farmer Shad Stagl of Stagl Organics (staglorganics.com). “Our CSA members often have questions about what to do with the Asian variety vegetables that we grow and provide in our weekly vegetable shares. We do our best to explain and share recipe ideas with them so that they can fully appreciate vegetables that they might not otherwise try.” ❖

JOSH SCHEUERMAN

Where can you buy Asian greens locally?

Organic Baby Bok Choy Stir Fry – Vegan 1-2 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 baby bok choy 2 cups sliced oyster or Cremini mushrooms 3 cloves pressed/chopped fresh garlic 1 cup sliced bunching green onions 1 cup chopped red bell pepper 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger root Tamari/Bragg’s Aminos to taste Salt and pepper to taste

Cooking Instructions: Heat oil in skillet on medium-high and add garlic and mushrooms until golden. Add in fresh vegetables and ginger until tender. Season to taste. Garnish with sliced green onions.

What’s going to be your next big food crush?

Betcha it’ll be baby bok choi.

Devour Utah • June 2017 25

That s 10 terrific spots to savor Italian cuisine.

By Aimee L. Cook

I

t might surprise visitors to landlocked Utah that there is an abundance of Italian regional cuisine to be found and enjoyed in the Beehive State. Whether you’re hankering for the sunny flavors of the Mediterranean or the hearty, mountain fare of the Veneto region, you’re likely to find it right here. Here is a brief tour of local Italian restaurants and dishes to discover.

Fireside on Regent

126 S. Regent St., SLC 801-359-4011 firesideonregent.com 26 Devour Utah • June 2017

JOHN TAYLOR

This new eatery located behind the Eccles Theater is fast becoming the place to enjoy Italian-inspired fare. The menu might seem a bit eccentric, but rest assured, you’ll enjoy the departure from the same old dish. Be sure to try the tarragon-lemon fettuccini, with tender langoustine morsels, heirloom tomato, snap peas, basil and garlic cream sauce. If that seems too adventurous, there’s always wood-fired pizza.

Veneto

370 E. 900 South, SLC 801-359-0708 venetoslc.com

JOSH SCHEUERMAN

NIKI CHAN

Veneto takes great pride in serving a homecooked meal you might find in Veneto, Italy.

From the homey atmosphere to the notipping policy, the intimate feel translates to the food on your plate, and you know you’re somewhere special. Simple ingredients are crafted into amazing dishes and paired with Italian wine from their extensive collection to complement your cuisine. The housemade bigoli pasta with duck ragu is a hearty combination of simple flavors that enhance each other.

Siragusa’s Taste of Italy

This old-school, Chicago-style Italian-American restaurant is a diamond in the rough in a Taylorsville strip mall. The interior reminds you of an Italian nonna’s kitchen; it’s not fancy or flashy, but you’ll savor the food.

Classic southern Italian dishes fill the menu but the sweet potato gnocchi is a standout. Couple these light and fluffy, bite-sized morsels with creamy alfredo sauce and you’ll be in gnocchi heaven.

4115 S. Redwood Road, Taylorsville 801-268-1520 siragusas.com Devour Utah • June 2017 27

Cannella’s

Stoneground Kitchen

204 E. 500 South, SLC 801-355-8518 cannellas.com

JOHN TAYLOR

JOHN TAYLOR

JOHN TAYLOR

When you’ve been serving Italian food for many years (since 1978, in fact), every once and a while you take some direction from your customers and change things up a bit. Such was the case with the introduction of the zucchini noodles at Cannella’s.

Any of the eatery’s pasta dishes can be substituted with zucchini noodles that are just as satisfying as traditional pasta but without the heft.

Try the zucchini noodles with fresh pomodora sauce and burrata; you just might discover a new favorite.

Although known for rustic Italian dishes, pizzas and housemade pastas, Chef Justin Shifflett has expanded his menu even further.

The pork tenderloin with fried polenta, topped with a cranberry reduction, portobello mushrooms and dried-fruit-and-pine-nut salsa is so tender you don’t even need a knife to cut it. It’s a must-have Stoneground dish.

249 E. 400 South, SLC 801-364-1368 stonegroundslc.com

28 Devour Utah • June 2017

TED SCHEFFLER

TASTE SUMMER.

Sicilia Mia

Tableside spaghetti alla carbonara is a showstopper at Sicilia Mia. No matter where you are sitting in this quaint restaurant, all eyes turn to the flaming wheel of parmesan cheese where the housemade spaghetti with eggs, pancetta and aged Parmigiano-Reggiano is assembled at your table. Giuseppe Merenda and the family go out of their way to treat guests like family and make their dining experiences memorable ones.

4536 S. Highland Drive, Millcreek 801-274-0223 facebook.com/siciliamia

Contemporary Japanese Dining LUNCH • DINNER • COCKTAILS

18 WEST MARKET STREET • 801.519.9595

Now Open

TED SCHEFFLER

Serving Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

110 West Broadway | 385.259.0574 | Peeryhotel.com

Devour Utah • June 2017 29

Still Made By Hand

Each One A Masterpiece

JOHN TAYLOR

801.485.1031 | 2057 E. 3300 S. | FINECANDIES.COM

Per Noi Trattoria

Tucked away in a quiet Sugar House neighborhood is the small Italian restaurant Per Noi Trattoria. Chef Francesco Montino from Naples, Italy, brought his family recipes to Utah and his dishes are authentically Italian, using only the freshest ingredients. The rich chicken Marsala is excellent— sweet Marsala sauce loaded with mushrooms covers the tender chicken like a silky, savory shawl.

801.355.2294 | 216 East 500 South, SLC 30 Devour Utah • June 2017

1588 E. Stratford Ave., SLC 801-486-3333 doginmind.com

Host your next private event with us!

282 S 300 W • Salt Lake City • (801) 328-3463 • toscanaslc.com

Devour Utah • June 2017 31

With deep roots in Utah’s culinary history, the space that is now Tuscany has been serving Italian food for many years.

Frequently updating the menu and adding a unique selection of wines has reassured Tuscany’s loyal clientele of their dedication to customers’ needs and to serving great food and drink.

The seafood fra diavolo is an adventurous dish that features mussels, clams, prawns, salmon and sea bass tossed in a tangy Italian tomato sauce.

Stanza Italian Bistro & Wine Bar One of the newer Italian restaurants on the local food scene, Stanza is an eye-popping eatery with contemporary takes on Italian classics. The casarecce alla bolognese is a rustic dish of rolled and twisted short pasta topped with a pork and veal ragu, pancetta and parmesan. The star of the dish is fresh casarecce made in-house, enhanced perfectly by the chunky, rich ragu.

454 E. 300 South, SLC 801-746-4441 stanzaslc.com

JOHN TAYLOR

2832 E. 6200 South, SLC 801-277-9919 tuscanyslc.com

NIKI CHAN

JOHN TAYLOR

Tuscany

Caffé Molise

With foods inspired from the Molise region of Italy, the flavors here are simple, fresh and classic. Pappardelle al sugo is a terrific dish: Fresh, housemade pappardelle is tossed with a savory, slow-cooked sauce of pork, beef and tomatoes, and then topped off with a generous sprinkling of Asiago cheese. The dish is hearty but not overly filling, leaving plenty of room for fresh Italian bread to mop up the extra sauce. ❖

55 W. 100 South, SLC | 801-364-8833 | caffemolise.com 32 Devour Utah • June 2017

A family of restaurants with

SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE!

Chabaar Beyond Thai

Tea Rose Diner

Siam Noodle Bar

87 w 7200 s Midvale, UT 801-566-5100

65 E 5th ave Murray, UT 801-685-6111

5171 Cottonwood street Murray, UT 801-262-1888

Huge Menus • Gluten Free & Vegan Options ANNYSTAKEONTHAI.COM Devour Utah • June 2017 33

The Bounty of the

The eastern side of the Wasatch range is full of flavor.

by Maya Silver

W

hat’s the geography of your dining-out routine? If you mapped your breakfast, lunch and dinner destinations, would they cluster in a three-block radius of Sugar House or the Avenues? Would your furthest reaches extend to Park City’s Main Street or the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon?

This summer, consider redrawing your culinary boundaries by surveying the gems of the Wasatch Back. Serendipitously, this eccentric collection of restaurants coincides with beauty— gorgeous views, scenic drives and winding trails to explore by foot, bike or horse.

Here’s the catch: We’re excluding restaurants in Park City and Snyderville Basin, which we often praise in the pages of Devour. In the spirit of exploration, we’re highlighting lesser-known spots in the region. Follow the itinerary this summer as you expand your dining map.

34 Devour Utah • June 2017

A Slice of the Big Apple in Midway

One of the themes of Wasatch Back restaurants is relocation.

Where you’d least expect it: a diner that once operated on the East Coast, a smokehouse that served as a Park City miners’ canteen, and a New Yorker slinging pizza pies in Midway. The latter describes Café Galleria, a must-visit for lovers of Italian cuisine, legit bagels and wood-fired pizza.

Like most true masterpieces, Café Galleria is a passion project. Cecil Duvall moved from upstate New York to Utah to be closer to family. In May 2008, after a few years calling the Wasatch Back home, he opened his restaurant inside a 110-year-old restored building on Midway’s Main Street.

Inside, you’ll find a warm mood set by brightly colored walls and intimate dining nooks. On the walls hang photographs of Italy snapped by Duvall’s son, Lance, as well as prints from the annual cowboy poetry gatherings in nearby Heber.

Come summer, you’ll probably dine alfresco on the patio to live music.

Café Galleria hums around the brick wood-burning oven with a decorative tile exterior that evokes a Roman mosaic.

Kids and adults alike can watch the pizzaiolo—the Italian

word for a pizza maker—tend to pies while inhaling the scent of dough crisping and cheese brûléeing. San Marzano tomatoes and 00 flour sourced from Italy are a couple of the secrets to thin-crust perfection here.

These key ingredients—along with hand-stretched dough and an ultra-hot oven—are what make the pizza among the most authentic in the Wasatch Back.

Topping a pizza can be a contentious topic among dining companions, but with individually sized pies, sacrifices needn’t be made. Sausage lovers will gravitate toward the Siciliana, while vegetarians can bask in the blue-cheese glory of the roasted mushroom with Gorgonzola, caramelized onions and pine nuts. Once you’ve tried all the pies, move on to the housemade fettucine and lasagna. No matter what time of day you visit, be sure to pick up a dozen bagels.

These chewy discs, baked in the wood-burning oven, will fulfill a New Yorker’s deepest cravings.

Café Galleria 101 W. Main, Midway 435-657-2002 cafegalleriapizza.com

What happens when you mash up Tex-Mex with Hawaiian cuisine? You have no worries because you know your breakfast is going to taste bueno and be served with aloha. It’s hard to explain, but setting foot inside No Worries Café and Grill really does induce a feeling of calm. Maybe it’s the vibe this familyowned restaurant emits. After all, it easily weathered the storm of relocating from its perch in Summit Park to Jeremy Ranch earlier this year. The serene vibes might also stem from the glut of natural light streaming into the dining room, or the bright turquoise and orange walls contrasted with rustic wood paneling.

Is it cosmic kismet that the chef here is named Dante Eggan?

Indeed, Chef Eggan does have a way with eggs, whisking them into fluffy customizable omelets and poaching them to perfection for your Benedict. He also has a way with locally sourced Wasatch Meats. The Hawaiian vein that runs through the menu is Kalua pig tucked in banana leaves and slow-roasted overnight.

And the spicy signature chipotle bacon is a must-try—savor it in a breakfast sandwich on-the-go if you’re itching to get to a nearby trailhead.

If you want to sample Eggan’s way with spice, get down with Dante’s Inferno: sirloin tips, hot Italian sausage, tomatoes, spinach, and cheese in a green pepper sauce, served frittata style, topped with savory hollandaise and Cajun dust. If you’re on the Benedict bandwagon, you have an impressive nine options to choose from, including variations featuring Maryland crab cakes and smoked salmon, all stacked upon English muffins from Salt Lake City’s Stone Ground Bakery. To breakfast as you might in Kauai, go for the No Worries Hawaiian Luau, featuring the signature Kalua pork seasoned with island spices and served with eggs, toast, hash browns and seasonal fruit.

No Worries Café and Grill 8178 Gorgoza Pines Road, Ste. A, Park City 435-200-8302 noworriescafeandgrill.com

JAMES BENSON

JOHN TAYLOR

Café Galleria

Eggs with a Side of Calm

No Worries Café and Grill

Devour Utah • June 2017 35

JAMES BENSON

JAMES BENSON

JAMES BENSON

BBQ with Uinta Views and Live Tunes

36 Devour Utah • June 2017

If you’ve never heard of it, the 1,100-acre High Star Ranch will catch you by surprise. What’s a Western-chic event center, high-profile concert venue and relatively ritzy restaurant doing on the edges of small town Kamas? Don’t ask questions—just be glad it’s there.

Opened in January 2016, State Road Restaurant & Tavern lives by the name of its game: smoke. From brisket destined for an unforgettable grilled cheese to pork shoulder for ramen, Executive Chef Justin Rogers always has something cooking in his custom-built smoker. His other priorities? Supporting local farmers and serving an eclectic take on comfort cuisine.

This translates to riffing on down-home classics like Buffalo wings with a stint in the smoker and a showering of shaved vegetables.

Downstairs, the family-friendly State Road Restaurant is a scenic place to dine, while a flight up, the adult crowd can enjoy dinner—often to live music—in the tavern. Barbecue buffs should skip right to the “smoked” section of the menu for meats smacking of cherrywood and oak. Savor a half rack of baby back ribs with a slab of cornbread sweetened with local Slide Ridge honey. To add a zesty, fresh foil to the rich ribs, order a side of poppy seed coleslaw. Then, end on a sweet note with the peach cobbler, wherein peaches mesh with crust into an almost pudding-like texture. A scoop of housemade vanilla ice cream cuts into the warm notes of stone fruit and butter—it’s almost as good a nightcap as the apple-laced bourbon old fashioned.

The rest of State Road’s menu is as eclectic as the acts the adjacent venue Dejoria Center draws. From a caramel pork belly banh mi and shrimp tacos to shoyu-style ramen, Chef Rogers is clearly a kitchen globetrotter. The menu here changes seasonally and one of the newer warm-weather items is the peekytoe crab, corn and pepper fritters—mop up every trace of the Meyer lemon-blood orange marmalade served on the side.

You can also make a State Road stop during a Saturday adventure at High Star Ranch. The Dejoria Center guides horseback riding, mountain biking and snowshoeing trips among others, but you’ll of course need to fuel up first.

Depending on your morning appetite, you might tackle an open faced Reuben or flatiron steak and egg sandwich with a side of Blood & Smoke—a smoky bloody mary made with Johnny Walker.

There’s always something going on at State Road come dinnertime, whether it’s a live First Friday show, a game of shuffleboard on the terrace, a roaring fire in the stone hearth, or a herd of elk grazing just beyond the deck. When bigname acts come to the Dejoria Center, you might even be lucky enough to spot a celebrity. “We had LeAnn Rimes here in December for her Christmas tour,” Manager Gabriela Caro recalls. Her order? The vegetable panini with portobello, sprouts, avocado, goat cheese and olive tapenade on ciabatta.

State Road Restaurant & Tavern 970 UT-32, Kamas 435-783-3530 stateroadtavern.com

AMAZING FOOD DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR

CANTU’S CULINARY CREATIONS Custom Catering & Home Delivery Service 801.359.6035 | www.cantuscatering.com | daniel@cantuscatering.com

Summer Patio

Chef-inspired, Locally Sourced

Gourmet

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Open 7 days a week.

Sunday Brunch 10am - 3pm 206 S. West Temple 801.890.5155 fatjacksut.com

Devour Utah • June 2017 37

MAYA SILVER

When you set foot inside the Road Island Diner, it only takes a second for a powerful wave of nostalgia to hit. Even if you weren’t alive in the ’50s, most Americans can relate to the yesteryear vibe of diners captured in movies and romanticized by artists like Edward Hopper. And the Road Island Diner serves up a particularly hefty slice of history. This Oakley restaurant is housed in a now rare No. 1107 model diner, which the Jerry O’Mahony Co. manufactured during the 1920s-1940s in New Jersey.

Today, only a few No. 1107s remain in the U.S. The diner at the juncture of State Road 32 and Weber Canyon Road first started slinging shakes and burgers in Massachusetts in 1939. After 14 years, the original owner sold it to Tommy Borodemus, a Greek immigrant. He dubbed it Tommy’s Deluxe Diner and relocated the building to Rhode Island, where his family operated it for

38 Devour Utah • June 2017

four generations. In 2007, the No. 1107 took a long road trip to Utah, where it was restored to look just like it did back in 1939.

Since February 2013, Ginny and Steve Butler have presided over the Road Island Diner, named as a nod to its history. Like the diner, the new owners are transplants, too. Ginny hails from Maryland, which explains the silver dollar crab cakes that grace the menu; her husband, Steve, arrived from Minnesota via Maine.

Stepping inside the Road Island Diner is sort of like entering a Tiffany lamp—you’ll find forest-green Italian marble counters, green-and-red leather booths, and bright green Tiffany glass clerestory windows.

Buttressed by a row of green leather stools, the bar hosts a display of cakes reminiscent of a Wayne Thiebaud composition. A former pastry chef at the Alta Peruvian Lodge, Steve generates a daily changing menu of treats like cinnamon buns, Boston cream pie and gluten-free carrot cake

MAYA SILVER

MAYA SILVER

The Traveling Roadside Diner

that you’d be remiss not to sample— unless, of course, you can’t go to a diner without foregoing a classic vanilla milkshake.

The menu here is as enticing as the ambience. Steve and Ginny make everything from scratch, from the local lamb slow-roasted for the Lamb-a-Dama Ding-Dong sandwich to the bread soaking up your housemade soup, the Road Island kitchen does it all. Control freaks will also love the build-your-own section of the menu, which allows guests to custom construct burgers, macaroni and cheese, and omelets in the morning. Fried chicken fiends should ask Steve’s nephew, Alex, about getting on his call list. When the diner decides to do a fried chicken special, he phones about 30 eager souls and sells out faster than you can say, “crispy.”

Road Island Diner 981 Weber Canyon Road, Oakley 435-783-3467 roadislanddiner.com

MAYA SILVER MAYA SILVER

Smoke Signals in the Uintas

If the Uinta National Forest had an official caterer, it would be the Samak Smokehouse, which sits just a couple miles up Mirror Lake Highway from Kamas. This restaurant/convenient store is a mandatory stop on the way to or from outings in the Uintas. Open daily, year-round, the Smokehouse outfits adventures of any kind, from cups of chili for cross-country skiers to boxed lunches of sandwiches starring meats and cheeses smoked on site with local cherrywood.

Samak Smokehouse is a great place to stock up on smoked and preservative-free, award-winning top-sirloin beef jerky, salmon or cheddar for future picnics or as gifts. This roadside cabin also functions as a sort of general store, with local maps, postcards and souvenirs. Part of the rustic building originally served as a kitchen for a mining camp located in what is now Deer Valley. Eventually, it was relocated to Kamas, and then down the road to Samak, where meats have been smoking for 40 years.

During summer weekends Memorial Day through Labor Day, the Smokehouse hosts barbecues outside at its picnic area. On the menu? Half-pound hamburgers with smoked cheddar and organic fries on the side. You can bring your own beer or purchase it Ă la carte inside the store.

Samak Smokehouse 1937 UT-150, Kamas 435.783.4880 samaksmokehouse.com

COME IN AND TRY OUR

Delicious Brunch Menu at all locations Saturdays and Sunday from 11-3

FANCY TACOS & FINE TEQUILAS

1615 S. FOOTHILL DRIVE | 385-259-0712 4670 HOLLADAY VILLAGE PLAZA (2300 EAST) | 801-676-9706 149 EAST 200 SOUTH | 385-259-0940

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK TA Q U E R I A 2 7 . C O M

Devour Utah • June 2017 39

Keeping with the Wasatch Back theme of relocation is the Gateway Grille, which headlines a chef who got his Utah start in the kitchen at Deer Valley Resort. After 14 years at the infamous Seafood Buffet, Chef Sean Wharton moved shop to Kamas and opened this family-owned, family-friendly restaurant with his wife, Rebecca.

For two decades, the Whartons have delighted Kamas locals and visitors to the region—including celebrities—with a wide variety of dishes. Gateway Grille’s interior departs from the typical Kamas country ambience with a Tuscan vibe 40 Devour Utah • June 2017

set by faux stucco walls, earth-tone tiled tables and string lighting.

The lunch and dinner menus offer typical Western fare like smoked wings, chicken fried steak and a buffalo burger, but it also runs the gamut from shrimp scampi to Uinta cheesesteak, shepherd’s pie and high-end steaks. The menu aims at vegetarians with a housemade veggie burger and the fire-roasted veggie panini, loaded with charred zucchini, portobello and red pepper with mozzarella and a balsamic reduction served on a Stone Ground Bakery roll.

Breakfast in Kamas also doesn’t get much better than the Gateway Grille.

For those who endlessly waffle between

JOSH SCHEUERMAN

JOSH SCHEUERMAN

JOSH SCHEUERMAN

A Deer Valley Chef in Kamas

a sweet-and-savory start to the day, the pancake sandwich obviates the difficult choice: Two pieces of bacon and two eggs slipped between two buttermilk pancakes will do the trick.

So, join the ranks of Stephen Spielberg, John Travolta and Bill Clinton, and let Chef Wharton cook for you and yours next time you come to Kamas.

Gateway Grille 215 S. Main, Kamas 435-783-2867 gatewaygrille.com

COURTESY OF HEBER VALLEY

Woodland Biscuit Co.

COURTESY OF HEBER VALLEY

Heber Valley Artisan Cheese

More to Love in the Wasatch Back

O U T W I T H T H E C O L D. . .

IT IN W

H T H E DE L I C I OUS

!

What’s that you say? You’re a Southerner and you haven’t found biscuits baked right in Utah yet? Catch Woodland Biscuit Co. first thing in the morning and your buttery laments will dissipate. Warm, large and in charge, these biscuits impress as solo acts or as sandwiches like the Cubano with grilled ham, melted Swiss, house pickles, mayonnaise and mustard.

Woodland Biscuit Co. 2734 E. State Highway 35, Kamas 435-783-4202 woodlandbiscuitcompany.com Mark the second Friday of the month on your calendar— that’s when cheese tastings take place at Heber Valley Artisan Cheese. Sample the signature Wasatch Back Jack, then dive into the locally renowned curds in flavors like jalapeño, smoky Cajun and ranch. Save room for the ice cream made with Heber Valley dairy. ❖ Heber Valley Artisan Cheese 920 River Road, Midway 435-654-0291 hebervalleyartisancheese.com

20 W. 200 S. • (801) 355-3891 • Catering available Open Mon-Wed: 9am-6pm Thu-Sat: 9am-9pm Devour Utah • June 2017 41

42 Devour Utah • June 2017

Devour Utah • June 2017 43

W

ith my formative drinking years having been spent navigating the famously arcane liquor laws of the Bible Belt, I felt well prepared for Utah’s quirky liquor legalities when I moved here a dozen years ago. The Beehive State’s labyrinthine restrictions didn’t seem that weird, really, in comparison to living in an entirely “dry” county in Kentucky, where alcohol of any sort wasn’t available in stores or restaurants. Back then, you might tour (for example) Maker’s Mark Distillery’s famous red barns filled to the rafters with bourbon barrels, but you couldn’t sample or purchase their products on site.

But like the tourismdriven reformation of Kentucky’s Bourbon Trail injecting dollars and job growth along the rural routes of my homeland, the state’s growing cadre of distillers—though relatively new to the post-Prohibition boozemaking scene—are shaking up Utah’s notoriety for tee-totaling alongside their beer brewing, ciderfermenting and wine-making peers, and have accrued national and international recognition and accolades for their efforts.

With delicious and unique spirits from local fruit brandies to American malt whisky (watch for this delicious trend to boom) to “valley tan” whiskey made using best guesses of historic pioneer-era recipes, there’s a huge and ever-growing spectrum of spirits to suit any

palate.

S

Distillery Destinations Tours and tastings for boozy imbibers.

By Darby Doyle

Utah distilleries may now offer up to 2.5 combined ounces of samples on-site for a small fee in addition to tours of their facilities under educational permits granted by the Utah Department of Alcoholic Beverage Control. And according Distiller’s Guild of Utah president Ethan Miller, the state’s booze brands “represent several different business models” that reflect national liquor production examples. These vary from artisan distillers who (bless their OCD hearts) control every aspect of the process from sourcing local grain for fermentation through tightly monitored distilling runs and various barrel-aging strategies, to independent bottlers who import their base spirits from manufacturing facilities out of state and adjust or “rectify” them on-site with filtering or adding artisan spring water to bottle at desired proof for sale. Some companies—like Utah’s first licensed distillery since Prohibition, High West—do a bit of both, combining a model of on-site distilling for some products and blending spirits brought in from elsewhere for other label runs with award-winning results.

“There’s something for everyone,” Miller says, at every price point and product-sourcing prerogative. So wrangle a designated driver and take a few days (or a helter-skelter afternoon; we’re not judging) exploring all that Utah’s high-proof potables have to offer. Just check out their websites or give them a jingle to see if you need to register for a tour in advance and to confirm shop hours.

1: North Country Ramble: Layton-Ogden-Eden The Hive Winery & Distillery’s brandy-making process uses Utah fruit, and Head Distiller Lori Yahne says, “I’m running the smallest commercial distilling operation” in the state. Her one-woman biochemistry show runs about 25 gallons of wine each day through her stock-pot still. This process creates just three to six gallons (depending on various conditions) of high-proof spirit, which is then used to make traditional fruit brandy—think blackberry, pear eau de vie and cherry—and liqueurs blended using only fresh-pressed fruit juice, a bit of sweetener and a lot of care. These spirits are a small and growing component of their already popular annual runs of fruit wine, Utah honey mead and hard ciders. Tours and tastings of their huge in number (yet small in volume) products are at the distillery and package store in Layton.

The Hive Winery Wine, hard cider, mead, brandy, liqueurs 1220 W. Jack D Drive, No. 2, Layton | 801-546-1997 | thehivewinery.com 44 Devour Utah • June 2017

COURTESY OF OGDEN’S OWN

Madam Pattrini Gin

A perennial favorite of festivals, open-air markets (they’re a bloody mary favorite every summer Sunday at the Park Silly Market) and barstools all over Utah, Ogden’s Own Distillery has a stable of spirit offerings from vodka to herbal liqueur and a growing lineup of flavored whiskies. Most recently, Ogden’s Own released Madam Pattrini gin—named after Brigham Young’s 35th son who performed in drag— which keeps with their cheeky tradition of giving a solid goosing to the more staid aspects of Utah cultural history.

Ogden’s Own Distillery vodka, herbal liqueur, gin, flavored whiskey 3075 Grant Ave., Ogden 801-458-1995 ogdensown.com

COURTESY OF NEW WORLD DISTILLERY

New World Distillery

In Eden, Utah, New World Distillery owners Chris and Ashley Cross take their love of liquors as diverse as Amsterdam gin and south-of-the-border agave spirits and adapt older-style recipes to modern techniques and flavor profiles. The Crosses make all their spirits in-house with an imported Dutch still and closed fermentation tanks in their state-of-theart facility, which also hosts international craft distilling classes led by the still’s manufacturer.

Look for small-run releases of specialized liqueurs and uniquely aged products (think gin rested in vermouth barrels—fantastic) that are sold only at the distillery’s package store in limited runs through their Bower Spirits Project.

New World Distillery gin, agave spirits, vodka 4795 E. 2600 North, Eden 385-244-0144 newworlddistillery.com

Hearth’s strawberry mint mojito

One Stop Shop Try them all at Ogden hotspot Hearth on 25th.

“We do a spirit-forward cocktail with bitters and the [New World Distillary’s] Eden gin,” chef/ owner AJ Hubbard says. They also favor Hive Winery’s herbal and spice blends and their signature cocktail the Title 32b (a nod to Utah’s post-Prohibition legislative beverage control code) uses rye whiskey, vermouth and Ogden’s Own herbal liqueur, which Hubbard says “showcases how much fun you can have not taking shots of Underground and using it as a mixer instead.” Good times, all around.

JOHN TAYLOR

Hearth on 25th 195 25th St., Ogden 801-399-0088 hearth25.com

Devour Utah • June 2017 45

NOW OPEN MONDAYS

TONA SUSHI BAR AND GRILL tonarestaurant.com 2013 - 2016

Best Odgen Restaurant

BOSS 2016

2015 & 2016

2012 - 2016

210 25th Street, Ogden • (801) 622-8662 • facebook.com/tonasushi

46 Devour Utah • June 2017

2: Salty City Distillery Crawl Although the largest number of Utah’s booze producers are concentrated within the I-215 beltway, SLCbased business model diversity embraces the entire gamut of booze geekery. True story: I’m a total sucker for watching a grain-to-glass distiller’s eyes light up when they talk about the farmer who grows their grain, nerding out over carefully cultivated yeast strains, the detailed nuances of the sometimestemperamental stills and their preferred char level for barrels. It’s a glimpse into the mind of true artisans.

Checking out the variety of stills in our city alongside commentary from the artisans who run them day in and day out is a lesson in craft and connoisseurship, without any snobbish overlay. They’re just really, really excited about their jobs and the delicious spirits they’re producing. And though they might not be producing spirits from the grain up doesn’t mean that non-distiller producers are any less proud of, or successful with, their spirits. The modern market supports a variety of price points, sourcing strategies and flavor preferences, along with a bit of Venn diagram overlap in between. Long story short, there’s a lot of local liquor love to go around.

IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER, CHECK WEBSITES OR CALL AHEAD TO SEEN WHEN/IF TOURS AND TASTINGS ARE AVAILABLE:

Beehive Distilling

Gin, barrel-aged gin, vodka beehivedistilling.com

Dented Brick Distillery Rum, gin, vodka 3100 S. Washington St. 801-883-9837 dentedbrick.com

Distillery 36

Agricole-style cane rum 2374 S. Redwood Road 801-983-7303 distillery36.com

Kid Curry Spirits

One-stop drinks express for Utah-made brands: Seven days a week, count on The Ruin in the Sugar House neighborhood to deliver fine beverages with a decided nod to Utah spirits. Can’t make up your mind with their fabulous classics and ever-changing seasonal drinks menu? Just tell your barkeep to “keep it local” and they’ll set you up with a laudatory libation bartender-roulette style. “It’s my go-to neighborhood spot” for local brews and distilled bevvies, according to Beehive Gin’s Chris Barlow.

Vodka, rum, whiskey 2080 W. 2200 South 801-699-0435 kidcurryspirits.com

Outlaw Distillery

Bourbon, white whiskey, rum 552 W. 8360 South, Midvale 801-706-1428 outlawdistillery.com

Salt City Vodka

Vodka saltcityvodka.com

Sugar House Distillery

American malt whiskey, bourbon, rye, new-make white whiskey, vodka, rum 2212 S. West Temple No. 14 801-726-0403 sugarhousedistillery.net

The Ruin 1215 Wilmington Ave., Ste. 120 801-869-3730 ruinslc.com COURTESY OF THE RUIN

Waterpocket Distillery

Liqueurs, herbal spirits, cocktail bitters, rum, gin, sourced whiskey 2084 W. 2200 South 385-202-5725 waterpocket.co Devour Utah • June 2017 47

3: Park City Panoramic: Booze and Views “Sunday brunch is one of the most popular times to visit the distillery,” High West Distillary Brand Manager Jenny Goolsby says. “People come mid-morning for a relaxing meal. Then they find out they can stay for a distillery tour and will come back in to the bar for a tasting flight after. It makes for a great day.”

That perfect itinerary is topped with beautiful scenery as well—every seat in the bar and dining room offers stunning views of the Wasatch Mountains. And, optimistically illustrating that there are growing opportunities for families to recreate and libate responsibly, the under-21 set is welcome on tours and in the dining room (with the exception of the immediate bar area). Since 2015, the beautifully designed Wanship distillery site offers scheduled tours, full whiskey-flight tastings and light restaurant fare for lunch and dinner, with local producers like Creminelli Fine Meats featured on the menu. High West’s Wanship facility tours cover the entire distilling process from grain fermentation to bottling. Distillery guides and the knowledgeable bartenders on staff enthusiastically discuss High West’s various distilling, sourcing and blending strategies, with a big boost from sources as wide-ranging as Kentucky bourbon to the Scottish Highlands along with historic Valley Tan oat-wheat whiskey distilled on site. View the active R&D laboratory, huge stills, fragrant barrel storage and a jostling bottling line. Scenic eye-candy and alcohol education combined in one gorgeous day spent in the Wasatch Mountains: win-win.

High West Distillery various whiskey blends (bourbon, rye, malt, oat), Utah Valley Tan, vodka 27649 Old Lincoln Highway, Wanship 435-649-8300 highwest.com

JOANNE MILLER

Rob Sergent might have arrived in Utah years ago as a decidedly modern Mountain West outdoors enthusiast. But his roots in Kentucky bourbon small-batch farm-based agricultural distilling are Sergent’s historical passion. These two geographical points reflect in the Alpine brand, which features the Utah sego lily as part of the company logo.

Though no distilling for Alpine’s products is done in Utah, Sergent’s source materials offer insights into his flavor-forward philosophy and blending experience, which have already garnered awards and attention overseas.

The Alpine Distilling showroom, just off the I-80 interchange between Wanship and Kimball Junction, showcases Sergent’s family history and his goal of “sourcing only the best and making it even better.”

Whiskey blends American malt, flavored and spiced liqueur, vodka 7132 N. Silver Creek Road, Park City 435-333-8354 alpinedistilling.com

48 Devour Utah • June 2017

JOANNE MILLER

Alpine Distilling

Devour Utah • June 2017 49

JOSH SCHEUERMAN

High West Saloon Though Brigham Young might have declared “this is the right place” in Emigration Canyon back in 1847, a large chunk of my out-of-state visiting friends have decided that their ideal ski-vacation meet-ups must occur in Park City, mostly for access to great food and libations all concentrated within walking distance. High West Saloon, Utah’s first ski-in-ski-out gastro-distillery fits that bill in spades. It’s also the perfect Sunday après Park Silly Market stop or post-mountain-bike repast all summer long.

703 Park Ave., Park City 435-649-8300 highwest.com/saloon

JOANNE MILLER

Utah DABC Liquor Stores They’re not sexy, but they’ll get you what you need.

Park City actually has quite a few store locations per capita with great quality and selection, especially for whiskey and wine. abc.utah.gov/stores ❖

50 Devour Utah • June 2017

NEIGHBORHOOD

T WO

LOCA L

LOCATIONS

353 West 200 South,

161 West 900 South,

SLC, UT

SLC, UT

801.521.2106

801.924-0939

7am-midnight Mon-Sat; 10am-10pm Sunday

HAPPY FATHER’S DAY AUTHENTIC GERMAN

ARTISAN BRATWURST

KEILBASA • KNACKWURST • WEISSWURST • GERMAN WIENERS

2696 Highland Dr, Salt Lake City • (801) 467-5052 • olddutchstore.com

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www.PeaceTreeCafe.com Devour Utah • June 2017 51

Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association

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he Utah Restaurant Association has been honoring Utah’s food community and restaurant industry for over 70 years.

The 2017 Utah Restaurant Association’s Industry Awards Gala in partnership with Devour Utah Magazine creates a magical evening where professionals from all over the state of Utah come together to celebrate one another and the restaurant industry as a whole.

It brings together the Utah ProStart program and honors the next generation of culinary professional, providing a rare moment where restaurant professionals are inspired by the future generation and viceversa. It is the mission of the Utah Restaurant Association to brand Utah as a dining destination. The Taste Utah television series and interactive dining guide provides the URA the ability to showcase the restaurant community in the entire state of Utah. It was our privilege to honor and highlight these amazing “Utah Dining Destinations” with our Taste Utah Award.

Alamexo, Amour Spreads & Cafe, the Brass Tag, Bakery at Windy Ridge, Cafe Diablo, Cafe Terigo, Christiansen’s Family Farm, Silver Star Cafe Park City, Drake Family Farms, The Farm, Feldman’s Deli, Frog Bench Farms, Forscher Bakery & Restaurant, Garwood’s Ginger Beer, Gibbons Green Gate Farms, Glitretind, Gold Creek Farm, Heirlooms & More, High West Saloon & Distillery, Red Rock Brewing, Ritual Chocolate, Riverhorse On Main, The Roof, La Bonne Vie, LaBeau’s Drive-In, Myrtle Rose, Oteo’s, Prairie Schooner, Provisions, Redmond Real Salt, Rowley’s Red Barn, Shabu, Taco Taco, Tona Sushi, Tupelo, Vernal Brewery, Wasatch Brew Pub, Yuki Yama, Zoe’s Garden

52 Devour Utah • June 2017

Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association

Lifetime Achievement Award Golden Spoon Award

Hall Of Fame Award

Silver Platter Award

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estaurateur Awards are presented to outstanding owners and operators in the Utah restaurant industry with a reputation for building and growing the food community in our state. These are influencers at the highest level and participate and work for the betterment not only of their own individual businesses but the businesses and communities that surround them. We were humbled to honor these three restaurateurs. The coveted Silver Platter award honors an industry partner who supports and contributes to the overall growth of Utah restaurants.

Golden Spoon Award —Glen Overton, Ruth’s Chris Park City Lifetime Achievement Award — Tony Caputo, Caputo’s Market and Deli Hall Of Fame Award — Bill White, Bill White Restaurant Group Silver Platter Award — John Saltas, Copperfield Publishing Devour Utah • June 2017 53

Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association

ProStart State Management winners

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TeenChef Pro

TeenChef Pro coaches

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tah ProStart is one of the most well respected and premiere ProStart programs in the country. Under the tutelage of Melva Sine, what was a pilot program twenty years ago has blossomed into a dynamic curriculum based high school culinary education program that provides juniors and seniors with all the skills, training and certification they need to enter a career in the restaurant industry at a management level directly out of high school. Utah is the third fastest growing restaurant industry in the country and because of Utah ProStart the next generation of restaurant employee is trained, qualified and ready to take on the many job opportunities associated with this kind of growth. The Utah Restaurant Association’s Industry Awards Gala and ProStart Awards honor the many students who spent the year competing in regional and state culinary and management competitions. It honors the state champions, Provo High School for Management and Westlake High School for Culinary who went on to represent as Team Utah at the National ProStart Invitational. The awards also honor a ProStart Educator of The Year and Student of the Year. The Student of the Year is awarded a $10,000 culinary scholarship courtesy of Sysco Intermountain.

The awards ceremony also honors TeenChef Pro, the culinary education program based on ProStart, inspiring the next generation of ProStart student while providing an invaluable educational tool for currently enrolled ProStart students. The TeenChef Pro Awards honored the 12 TeenChefs along with their 3 MentorChefs Logen Crew, Ryker Brown and Justin Shifflett and host Michael McHenry, who all volunteered two weeks of their summer to participate in the culinary competition. The awards also honored Bintz, Sysco and Johnson & Wales University for their valuable sponsorship and contribution to season two of TeenChef Pro.

Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association

Quick Service cup bop

Fast Casual cubby’s

Casual Dine Pizza Nono

Fine Dine Veneto

Restaurant Awards New Concept —

The Utah Restaurant Association new concept awards recognize notable restaurateurs who contribute to the diversity of Utah’s culinary community. The culinary landscape in Utah is ever evolving and the New Restaurant Concept awards honor those restaurants who are masterfully carving their own unique niche. Beginning a new restaurant is a difficult venture, whether you are creating your own concept or investing in bringing a new franchise to the state. Introducing and maintaining new concepts is an incredible feat. These award winners are contributing immensely towards making Utah a dining destination from the inside out.

Devour Utah • June 2017 55

Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association

SAVOR THE SUMMIT

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KICKS OFF SUMMER SEASON THIS JUNE

he Park City Area Restaurant Association’s 10th annual Savor the Summit presented by Sysco returns Saturday, June 17, at 6:00 p.m. Park City’s largest outdoor dinner party will host hundreds of guests at the “Grande Table” down the center of Park City’s Historic Main Street, where more than 25 prominent Park City restaurants will offer their unique al fresco dining and beverage menus. Menu prices vary with some establishments offering wine and beverage pairings.

Live music will begin at 5:00pm in the Spirit Garden, presented by High West Distillery, located at Heber Avenue and Main Street. The official lineup is as follows:

5:00 - 5:30pm: DJ Dymes 5:30 - 7:15pm: Tony Holiday & The Velvetones 7:45 - 9:45pm: Changing Lanes Experience Music styles range from hip hop beats and classic blues to party rock hits to please a variety of music tastes for a lively evening of exceptional food and entertainment.

Reservations are still available. Visit savorthesummit.com to learn more and book your seat with one of the participating restaurant.

56 Devour Utah • June 2017

Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association

Devour Utah • June 2017 57

TINWEL FROM LOCAL DIVE TO CLASSY VIBES: TINWELL BAR SHOWCASES CLASSIC COCKTAILS AND MODERN ATMOSPHERE.

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he building is one you might have passed a dozen times without a second thought. And if you’re not sure, let me paint a picture.

Back in 1945, the space was originally a bank. The building was purchased in the ’70s and opened as Uncle Bart’s.

Envision a tall, unassuming building, one with no windows—you couldn’t see in and no one could see out. If you happened to enter Uncle Bart’s, you would find stained, beat-up carpet, a latchkey jukebox, low ceilings and layers upon layers of poorly constructed, blackened walls. You’d run into some regulars and an owner with a drink in hand, regaling tall tales—a quintessential dive, scattered with the same faces daily. If you weren’t a regular, you were out of place, and you knew it.

58 Devour Utah • June 2017

STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHELSEA NELSON

Enter local bartender and gogetter, Caleb Cannon (and partners, Tuscon-based JAM Culinary Concepts), who purchased the building in 2015. I am sure it took a bit (or a lot) of imagination to see the potential that Uncle Bart’s actually had—but when you enter this building today, almost none of its former life seems apparent.

However, with the bank’s original vault still intact, this centrally located component became a springboard for what is now a beautiful and elegant design. After a quick first opening, Cannon and team got the building ready for service, but then later closed the doors for 45 days to finish creating the beautiful space you see today.

Tinwell is something pretty special. It’s open and airy, with

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dark and beautiful undertones.

Huge, illuminating windows create a magical natural light in the early evening. It’s a classic collision of modern and Old World, and it feels good to be in the space. Tinwell is also contributing to an up-andcoming community in the central 9th area that’s become a new hot spot. With Blue Copper Coffee and Proper Brewing/Burger already finding success in the area, as well as A. Fisher Brewing Co. and Water Witch Bar, Tinwell is contributing another great establishment to the mix. Tinwell is a bar where it doesn’t matter if you are a regular or there for the first time—you’re going to get a talented bartender greeting you with a smile, and a beverage of your choice, made the right way (they specialize in the old classics).

Devour Utah • June 2017 59

Caleb Cannon, Alejandro Olivares and Tristen Loughlin

Caleb Cannon isn’t a stranger to the local cocktail community. He started his bar career like most do, as a barback. He worked his way up and found he was hooked on the complexity and intricate layers of craft cocktails. After college, he started doing menu consultation in addition to bartending and found himself creating cocktail menus for some of the best bars in Salt Lake City. Along the way, he met his wife—industry and cocktail expert Amy Eldredge, who is a managing partner at Under Current Bar. So, you could say much of Caleb’s professional and personal success has been found in the cocktail community, which is why it makes sense that he is passionate about supporting and contributing to it. And to top it off, he has some of the best bartenders in the city working for him: Tristen Loughlin, Alejandro Olivares, Katy Willis and Zade Womack to name a few.

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So, the space is amazing and the passion behind it is contagious—but what about the cocktails? By any measure, they’re the most important component.

Of course, the cocktails (and bartenders) are my favorite part. Tinwell bartenders and I think alike when it comes to the idea of balance. A great craft cocktail doesn’t mean more ingredients—it means a balanced cocktail that uses fresh ingredients.

On Tinwell’s menu, you’ll find a variety of old-school classics. Last time I was in, Tinwell was featuring the gimlet, negroni, daiquiri, old fashioned, and Toronto. Dear readers, these are the cocktails that make other cocktails possible. You hope that every bartender you meet knows these classics, which then can be built on in fun and interesting ways.

Not Just A Pastry Place

Pastry • Breakfast lunch • Spirits

725 E. 12300 S. Draper 801-571-1500 Devour Utah • June 2017 63

Red Rover

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I B A R & G RI

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4927 S. State St. Murrey I 801.278.8682

At Tinwell, you’ll also find creative house-crafted sips like the Dead Ringer (rye, bourbon, Amaro Averna, sugar cube and barrel-aged whiskey bitters) or the Cold Roses (gin, Pimm’s, Campari and lemon). I also really love the tiki cocktail they call the Red Rover (two aged rums, orange juice, lime and raspberry).

Tinwell bartenders are creating some wonderful cocktails—but not before they show you they can nail the classics and technique. Tinwell also showcases a great selection of beer, cider, and wine —all bases are covered!

Let this interesting and fun new cocktail joint wow you with service, drinks, decor and passion. You’ll be glad you did. ❖

64 Devour Utah • June 2017

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DEVOURUTAHSTORE.COM Devour Utah • June 2017 65

Last Bite:

Old World Fare

By Michael Feldman

W

e read a lot about immigration in the headlines today. We are a nation of immigrants, and “their” culture has created “our” culture. In the early 1900s, out of 100 million Americans, over 15 percent of the U.S. immigrant population came from Europe. Irish, Germans, Poles, Russians, and Italians made up most of the ethnic neighborhoods in NYC. All of our great cities had a tremendous amount of immigrant culture and food. My grandparents came from Russia, my wife Janet’s from Poland. We grew up with the food that Bubbe and Bobche would make. Janet, to this day, enjoys keeping those recipes, like pierogi, schnitzel, bigos, kielbasa, gulumpky, paprikash and piroshky relevant.

I’m thrilled that others are also carrying on tradition. So where in SLC can you dig into some spaetzle, schnitzel or sheppard’s pie? Here are a few of my favorites.

For German food, Siegfried’s (siegfriedsdelicatessen. com) and Bohemian Brewery (bohemianbrewry.com) both stand out. Siegfried’s serves traditional German food, including brats, schnitzel, spaetzle and goulash. Don’t miss out on their apple strudel. The Bohemian serves a wider selection of old European treats, including brats, pierogi, goulash, stroganoff, and Czech fruit dumplings.

Speaking of Czech, Hruškas (hruskas-bakery.com) in Sugar House and Provo make fabulous kolaches (sweet and savory pastries) that will make your day. They are open from 7 a.m. till they run out (around 2 in the afternoon).

Have you ever tried Balkan food? Café on Main

66 Devour Utah • June 2017

(facebook.com/cafeonmainslc) serves up a variety of meaty treats like cevapi, sudzukics, shish kebab, pijeskavica and sampita (dessert). Although the décor is non-descript, the food will dance on your tongue!

The Galley Grill offers Russian fare like borscht, shi soup, shashlik, pelmeni ravioli, vareniki and golubsi, to remind me of dinner at Bubbe’s. Luybochka Deli and Café is a new Russian place that is on my hit list.

A newer spot that offers an Old World menu is Trestle Tavern (trestletavern.com). There you can try cabbage rolls, pierogi, paprikash, goulash, brats and schnitzel in an upscale setting.

For Greek, my three favorites are Manoli’s (manolison9th. com), Aristo’s (aristosslc.com) and The Other Place, whether you are in the mood for dolmathes, mezze, mezedakia or lemon soup. They treat your taste buds to the Mediterranean!

Finn’s Café (finnscafe.net) has been serving up Scandinavian cuisine to many regulars for years. Whether it’s kake French toast, norsk, pittipanna, a bay shrimp sandwich or vegetable meatball soup, you’ll enjoy this neighborhood joint for breakfast or lunch.

I spent eight years in the UK, so I really miss pub grub and fish and chips. When the craving gets to me, I go to MacCool’s (maccoolsrestaurant.com). Bangers and mash, potato leek soup and Irish classics like sheppard’s pie, fish and chips, ploughman’s breakfast, corned beef and cabbage, and Guinness stew all offer flavors of the Emerald Isle. Piper Down (piperdownpub.com) offers more of the same with live music and a full bar.

So, if you are in the mood for a change of pace, try exploring Europe right here in our backyard! ❖

Devour Utah • June 2017 67

68 Devour Utah • June 2017