vol. 3 no. 8 • august 2017 • go
Go
It’s time to
Lady Bartenders p. 38
Food Truckin' p. 24 Rio Grande Café Revival p. 20
Road Tripping
p. 14
Utah Restaurant Association page 60 Devour Utah • August 2017 1
2 Devour Utah • August 2017
e ntic h t u a Mexican Food & cantina celebrating 20 years
165 S. West Temple • SLC
Below Benihana and across from the Salt Palace
801-533-8900
255 Main St • Park City Treasure Mountain Inn (Top of Main)
435-649-3097
Devour Utah • August 2017 3
Contents 10 14 20
The Chill is On
Refreshing summer treats BY HEATHER L. KING
Roadtripping
Eat like a local wherever you go BY DARBY DOYLE
The Spread
Rio Grande Café BY AIMEE L. COOK
4 Devour Utah • August 2017
24 30 38
Truckin’
Utah’s food-truck culture BY JEN HILL
Food Focused
Food photographer Brooke Lark BY AIMEE L. COOK
Women Behind the Bar
Local lady bartenders BY CHELSEA NELSON
50 66
Mixology 101 Go bold with garnishes
BY DARBY DOYLE
Last Bite
A trip to Wine Camp BY FRANCIS FECTEAU
Devour Utah • August 2017 5
DEVOUR
Contributors STAFF Publisher JOHN SALTAS Editorial Editor Copy Editor Proofreader Contributors
Photographers
TED SCHEFFLER SARAH ARNOFF LANCE GUDMUNDSEN AIMEE L. COOK, DARBY DOYLE, FRANCIS FECTEAU, JEN HILL, HEATHER L. KING, CHELSEA NELSON
Writer and recovering archaeologist Darby Doyle highlights hip SLC as a cityhomeCollective contributor. She also blogs about boozy experiments at abourbongal.com.
NIKI CHAN, JOHN TAYLOR, JOSH SCHEUERMAN
Production Art Director Assistant Art Director Graphic Artists
DEREK CARLISLE BRIAN PLUMMER JOSH SCHEUERMAN, VAUGHN ROBISON
Business/Office Accounting Manager Office Administrator Technical Director
PAULA SALTAS ANNA KASER BRYAN MANNOS
Aimee L. Cook writes for several local publications. She enjoys reviewing all things art, entertainment and food related.
Marketing Marketing Manager
JACKIE BRIGGS
Circulation Circulation Manager
LARRY CARTER
Sales Magazine Advertising Director Newsprint Advertising Director Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives
JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF PETE SALTAS ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER LISA DORELLI, JEREMIAH SMITH
After a dozen or so changes of major and career, Francis Fecteau realized that, as always, it was his mouth getting him into trouble. A compulsive eater and obsessive drinker of all things fermented and distilled, Fecteau left a career in restaurants and has spent the past couple decades navigating the byzantium of the UDABC while foraging for drinkable treasures with his company Libation.
Cover Photo: Market fresh raspberries by Jason Parks Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email editor at Ted@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com
Copperfield Publishing Copyright 2017. All rights reserved
@DevourUtah
6 Devour Utah • August 2017
@DevourUtah
@DevourUtah
Chelsea Nelson is a craft cocktail and spirits writer, photographer and educator who is on a mission to help Salt Lake City understand and appreciate the local cocktail scene. You can find more of her work on her website, Ritual and Craft: a cocktail diary, at ritualandcraft.com, or on Instagram @RitualandCraft.
Devour Utah • August 2017 7
Jack Hit the Road
It’s a go-go world; we just live in it.
H
ave you been on the go lately? It feels like it, right? I’ve traveled away from Utah less this year than others, and yet it feels like I’m constantly on the go and trying to catch up. Thanks in large part to the internet, social media and email, it feels to me like I’m swirling around in a go-go world, even as I become more sedentary and plugged in. Well, with this edition of Devour Utah, we invite you to UN-plug and go—even if only vicariously via the work of our excellent writers and photographers. Contrary to the Eagles’ tune “Take It Easy,” there isn’t much that’s easy about taking to the road with family. As a seasoned expert in all things road trippy, writer Darby Doyle dishes up excellent advice and tips on how to eat wholesomely on the road, while still indulging in the burgers and milkshakes that you hit the road for in the first place. Some chefs are shackled to their restaurant kitchens. Others are constantly on the move. The latter defines food truck chefs and entrepreneurs, and Jen Hill explores some of the best on-the-go cuisine from Utah’s food trucks. In his Last Bite essay, wine expert Francis Fecteau takes us on a virtual tour of wine country via his annual Wine Camp field trips, where attendees dig into the soil, work among the vines and discover the hands-on aspects of winemaking. Many more articles and ideas about the importance of going fill these pages. I recommend tossing a copy of Devour into your backpack, briefcase or glove compartment, and heading to somewhere special to enjoy it. OK, gotta go! ❖
JASON PARKS
Picking the right tasties for travel time.
8 Devour Utah • August 2017
—Ted Scheffler Editor
more than a pub
Devour Utah • August 2017 9
the is on
Cool down with these refreshing summer treats. By Heather L. King
10 Devour Utah • August 2017
COURTESY DEER VALLEY RESORT
T
Deer Valley Grocery Café
Caprese salad $11.50 Taking advantage of perfectly ripe heirloom tomatoes from Copper Moose Farm, the kitchen at Deer Valley Grocery Café artfully intersperses tomatoes at their peak with marinated pearl mozzarella, fresh mint, aged balsamic pearls that burst in your mouth, and chili-dusted crispy onions—all lightly dressed with lemon mosto oil. This salad is a great way to recharge on the patio after hiking or biking Deer Valley. 1375 Deer Valley Drive, Park City 435-615-2400 deervalley.com
VINCE COREK
he heat of Utah summers often dampens the appetites of restaurant patrons. Yet even as the temperatures climb, eateries across the state are regularly tempting palates with cool and refreshing food and beverages designed to satisfy even the most overheated eater. Here are four revitalizing options to kick-start your culinary cool-down during these long, hot days of summer.
Fav Bistro
Garden rolls with shrimp $5.95 Thai chefs know a thing or two about how to stimulate an appetite in oppressive heat, and Anny Sooksri, owner of Holladay’s new Fav Bistro (in addition to Tea Rose Diner, Siam Noodle House and Chabaar), is no exception. An order of the garden rolls with shrimp or avocado delivers two cool and fresh spring rolls stuffed with cold shrimp, carrots, lettuce, fresh mint and glass noodles with a side of sweet-and-spicy peanut sauce for dipping. Very refreshing. 1984 E. Murray Holladay Road, Holladay 801-676-9300
Devour Utah • August 2017 11
VINCE COREK
AUSTEN DIAMOND
Farr Better Ice Cream
Cucina
274 E. 21st St., Ogden 801-393-8629 farrsicecream.com
1026 2nd Ave., SLC 801-322-3055 cucinadeli.com
Double scoop $3.99-$4.19 Summer and ice cream go hand-in-hand, and there’s nothing better than a few lines of melting cream and sugar running down your arm to bring back childhood memories of summers gone by. In Ogden, the original Farr Better Ice Cream parlor has been serving up single and double scoops since the 1920s. Little has changed at this legendary shop that’s sold millions of cones and cups over the years. When your number is called, choose from any of about 70 flavors.
12 Devour Utah • August 2017
Frozen sangria $11 Salt Lake City is known for its perfect patio dining on summer evenings. So what pairs better with Utah’s stunning sunsets and a slight breeze than frozen sangria at Cucina in the Avenues? Owner Dean Pierose and team have perfected the ideal mix of simple syrup, drunken fruit juice and Montebuena Rioja wine for a stellar icy adult beverage garnished with fresh mint from the garden. ❖
FO
R
D
IN
nk You
01 2
T ha
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G L O C A L S I NC
E
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Utah’s Best Brunch 725 E. 12300 S. DRAPER 801-571-1500
PASTRY • BREAKFAST LUNCH • SPIRITS
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of Utah
Devour Utah • August 2017 13
Let’s Go How to eat like a local wherever you go. By Darby Doyle
t some point during a long road trip, we’ve all hit that wall: If we see one more french fry or burger we’re going to lose it. And I love a good burger combo under normal circumstances. For weeks on end, though, it gets a bit much—especially when traveling as a family and attempting to keep everyone happy and healthy. Early in my pre-internet road-tripping days, I toted along a dog-eared copy of Jane and Michael Stern’s epic road-food tome Eat Your Way Across the U.S.A., which appealed to both my professional background in anthropology/history and my love for local foodways. My husband and I have visited all 50 states and enjoy nothing more than figuring out where to get Basque food in western Nevada, Czech kolaches in central Texas, the best clam rolls in coastal Massachusetts and heaping wurst and kraut platters alongside beer by the stein in southern Ohio. As the years have gone by, we’ve added two (now teenaged) sons to family expeditions, making things both more fun and inevitably extra-complicated with four opinions and two generations involved. Fortunately, finding fantastic local fare is easier than ever using nothing more than a smartphone, a gregarious nature and a bit of advance research. Here’s how we keep our family eating even better than we do at home while we’re on the road.
14 Devour Utah • August 2017
Tech Savvy
It seems like every time we gear up for another road trip, someone’s encouraging me to try out this or that phone app geared toward travel, food trucks, restaurants or outdoor activities. Erynn Montgomery, a Utah-based professional travel agent, mother of four girls ages of 4-13, and the adventurous mind behind the popular travelling-withkids website tropicofcandycorn.com has mixed feelings about using apps to find restaurants. “There’s so much more information about travel, but, with that, the information is also less reliable,” she says. Montgomery notes that several popular apps are sponsored—meaning clients pay to have their restaurants, lodging and activities appear higher in search results. In actuality, “Some of the restaurants are really awful,” she warns. Indeed, relying on apps can be a mixed bag, but in general they’re a helpful starting point. Bookmarking features on Yelp, Google and TVFoodMaps (showing where dozens of food and travel shows have filmed episodes) can help locate eats on-the-go. Trip Advisor is a popular sponsored-site option, especially for its reviewer forums. My globe-trotting friend Drew Burchenal says that app, “can be helpful in challenging foreign locales. Sometimes you’ve had enough curry and just want a sandwich.” Although it can have a high-end emphasis, Zagat is great for finding fine dining and
local culinary icons. I agree with my friend in Massachusetts, Giles Parker, who especially recommends TVFoodMaps for families, as it gives a wide variety of options from food trucks to fine dining. My kids inevitably get a huge kick out of going somewhere they’ve seen on an episode of Bizarre Food or Anthony Bourdain’s The Layover. I’ve also found the road trip feature pretty helpful, as it provides a route with a 10- or 25mile corridor of dining options to encourage getting off the interstate and exploring. The lodging website airbnb.com has hundreds of useful city guides contributed by local bloggers such as “dogfriendly hangouts in San Francisco,” “iconic restaurants in Detroit” or “vegan eats in Sydney, Australia.” Blogger-and reader-driven websites like seriouseats.com and chowhound.com have great geographic-oriented search engines and knowledgeable online forums about regional food favorites. Or, drop the name of the city or state you’re visiting into the search bar at foodie magazine websites like Bon Appetit and Food & Wine. For Utah eats, check right here at Devour. My favorite for digging deep into the culinary history of regions all over the world is Saveur magazine, which has a very solid search engine for regional and city names linked to meticulously researched and fascinating food articles. City and state departments of tourism usually have dining recommendations readily available, as well.
Devour Utah • August 2017 15
Getting the Local Scoop
The bane of existence for my introvert friends (and my husband, who would rather bathe in acid than ask for directions), talking to a local truly is the best way to find out where great eats can be found. Erynn Montgomery says the obvious people to ask are the ones whose job it is to help visitors. “The front desk at the hotel or concierge are the first step,” she says. Or, when roughing it, a campground host or at the ranger station can offer suggestions, too. If staying in an Airbnb or VRBO rental, I ask the owners where they suggest going and inevitably receive a thorough list with lots of great options at every price point. Montgomery says sometimes it’s easiest to find restaurants, especially internationally, by explaining what you like to eat rather than rattling off restrictions. Ask leading questions like, “We’d like to find a great fish taco place,” in California or “What’s your favorite spot in the neighborhood for pizza?” in Rome. Since we’re often camping in our pop-up trailer on long road trips, my favorite spots to recharge and do some 16 Devour Utah • August 2017
road-eats research are public libraries. On a three-week camping road trip through western Canada last summer, my boys needed to check in with summer schoolwork at least once a week, and public libraries saved our bacon, with plenty of power outlets for laptops, sometimes free Wi-Fi, a quiet environment to study and clean restrooms to tidy up. And librarians are the hands-down masters of information technology. Although I overheard one appalled librarian tell another, “Those poor American children have to do homework all summer,” they were beyond helpful everywhere we stopped. Incredibly knowledgeable about their own region’s cultural food history, librarians over the years have helped us find everything from classic steakhouses to coastal seafood shacks and a bounty of farmers markets (and it’s always nice to leave a donation in the building fund drop box for the privilege of relying on other people’s taxes). Also remember that people in small towns are used to traveling far distances for shopping and stocking up; locals might be able to suggest great food in their town and the next one 70 miles down the road.
Find local farmer’s markets and u-pick farms through localharvest.org
THE
Expand Your Perspective
And in the U.S. through the USDA website:
ams.usda.gov/ local-fooddirectories/ farmersmarkets
EXCITE YOUR SENSES
Broaden Your Vision Let Your Palate Roam 60 E 800 So. SLC, UT (385) 528-3675 TheEklektik.com Devour Utah • August 2017 17
Keep It Fresh
Sometimes the biggest challenge on the road is the temptation to eat local comfort favorites all day, which can tend to be as heavy as they are delicious—country fried steak, chile rellenos, bratwurst, fried chicken and craft beers, for example. At county fairs and ballparks, everything barbequed or deep-fried on a stick. Yes, more of that, please. Our own family aims for a “two out of three” philosophy for eating on the road: We try to eat local nosh for two meals of the day and something healthy from the cooler for one meal. When the “hangry” hits, we snack. Erynn Montgomery’s tip? Pack healthy and protein-packed snacks that are hard to find at gas station stops: non-messy fruit and veggies (carrot sticks, grapes, clementines), good cheese and crackers, protein powders, nut butters and fruitnut or protein bars. “If you’re used to eating healthy at home, it’s easy to sell kids on the idea that the occasional junk food splurge is a treat, not an expectation,” she says. To keep the anticipation going, Montgomery has each of her kids write their initials in sidewalk chalk on one of the vehicle tires like 18 Devour Utah • August 2017
four points on the compass. When they stop for gas on a long road trip, the child with initials closest to the pavement gets $5 to buy treats to share with all four siblings. They call it their family “Wheel of Fortune.” Both Montgomery and I agree that hitting up farmers markets is one of the best ways to stock up on the freshest local fixins. “My kids will try foods they’d never pick out at home when they see them at a market,” Montgomery says. I’m also a fan of visiting local wineries and breweries to supplement our booze stash along the way. We pack an extra box of gallon-sized freezer bags to store roadside-market game jerky, local cheese and fruit stand cherries. There’s nothing worse than digging in the cooler looking for sliced turkey for a sandwich and coming up with a waterlogged indeterminate mess in a grocery deli bag. And instead of smash-sensitive pre-sliced bread, use tortillas, pita pockets or fresh crusty baguettes for building sandwiches. ❖
Here’s to eating local on the road this summer and beyond!
Devour Utah • August 2017 19
The
pread S Wahoo Fish Tacos
20 Devour Utah • August 2017
Rio Grande Café
Steak Fajitas
W
hen restaurant owners/partners Byron Lovell and Brian O’Meara purchased the long standing, historic Rio Grande Café in February, they knew exactly what they were getting into. Lovell had been a patron of the eatery for the past 30 years and actually offered to buy the restaurant from the previous owner five years ago. “Nothing has really changed,” Lovell says. “We kept the original menu and recipes. We may add a few things here and there, or find ways to improve upon them, but overall, it is the same Mexican comfort food people have enjoyed for decades.” In fact, so little change has taken place with the new ownership, that 90 percent of the kitchen staff and 70 percent of the wait staff remain. The same beloved enchiladas, burritos and the “taco-lady” are still staples on the menu, and even the old “Coffee” and “Air Conditioned” signs hang above the front door. The restaurant went through a bit of remodel during the transition, but a new kitchen and some paint were about all that was needed. Lovell plans on recreating the feel from the 1990s by installing a retro jukebox and several speakers that will serenade patrons with the sounds of Johnny Cash and other crooners. As for the neighbors that surround the Rio Grande Café, the homeless shelter and the St. Vincent de Paul overflow shelter are across the street, but Lovell says, “The people that live down here are not bad people; they have been very respectful. We have not had any problems.” In an effort to assuage any reticence of restaurant patrons coming in for dinner or visiting during the evening hours, Lovell has security monitoring the parking lot. He wants people to feel safe walking in and out. “The neighborhood is really being worked on by the state,” he says. “We want people to come, eat some great Mexican comfort food and enjoy this historic restaurant.” The new iteration of Rio Grande Café is an oldie and a goodie! ❖
Frozen Margarita
Classic Feel
Rio Grande Café 270 S. Rio Grande St., SLC 801-364-3302 facebook.com/therioslc By Aimee L. Cook Photos by Josh Scheuerman
Devour Utah • August 2017 21
4670 S. 2300 E. HOLLADAY MONDAY-FRIDAY 6AM-8PM SATURDAY 6AM-9PM SUNDAY 7AM-6PM
www.3cups.coffee 385-237-3091
22 Devour Utah • August 2017
801.485.1031 | 2057 East 3300 South | finecandies.com
Love
1
Things We
BY TED SCHEFFLER
4
2
3
If you happen to find yourself in Strasbourg, France, be sure to bring home a terrine of Edouard Artzner’s world class Bloc de Foie Gras de Canard. If not, buy it online: $21 for 200 grams at edouard-artzner.com
1
Looking for a big, concentrated, Italianstyle wine made in Utah? Look no further than Ruth Lewandowski Boaz, a carignan-based red wine that’s the bomb!
2
Ruby red grapefruit marmalade from Amour Spreads is thick, in the British style, with bright, tangy red grapefruit juice flavors. A 4-ounce jar is $8 at amourspreads.com and Amour Café.
3
Inspired by the brick ovens of Italy, the Artisan Pizza Oven 60 from Utah’s Camp Chef is a propane-heated tool for cooking pizzas, paninis, breads, cookies and lots more outdoors. It’s $165 at campchef.com
4
Devour Utah • August 2017 23
Truckin’ Let’s Go
Utah is home to over 100 food trucks. By Jen Hill By Jen Hill
S
ummertime is the right time to venture out of our home spaces, collect new memories and perhaps be somewhat adventurous at mealtime. The Food Truck League is a network of over 100 Utah mobile food vendors that provides the ideal outdoor eating venue for a group of individuals who have different menu expectations, or for those who can’t decide just quite what they are hankering for. Whether you choose to hit them up on Sugarmont Monday, Food Truck Thursdays at the Gallivan Center or elsewhere, this coalition of food trucks fills all five senses, allowing you to take in the sights, scents and conversation before selecting your fare. From cheesesteaks to funnel cakes, before the warm season and summer nights end, be sure to dedicate a night, download their app, and go follow that food truck! The scene during Sugarmont Monday (located in the parking lot of the former Deseret Industries on Simpson Avenue and Highland Drive in Sugar House) features six or seven trucks with their engines continually humming, and tantalizing aromas of a wide array of foods. Reminiscent of a state fair without the rides, while there isn’t much seating or shade, you’ll be sure to find lots of happy, chatting local folk, enjoying some comfort food in the company of other food-truck thrill seekers.
24 Devour Utah • August 2017
COURTESY SATISFACTORY TRUCK
Wachos
COURTESY SATISFACTORY TRUCK
Quesa-“dillas”
COURTESY SATISFACTORY TRUCK
COURTESY SATISFACTORY TRUCK
Rice Bowl
A food truck with flair, giving new life to chicken wings with flavors ranging from mild to five alarm, The Satisfactory Truck is a fun choice. Along with their breaded-by-hand, fresh and never frozen chicken wings, they feature original quesa-”dillas” and Wachos, or fully loaded waffle fries, that are no exception to the yum. Owner and chef Landan Gollaher has created some very clever menu items, such as Factory Hash and the combo plate Chicken and Not So Waffle. Traditional or boneless wings are served with seven sauces, including lemon pepper and mango habanero. Gollaher’s Wacho creation and recommended must-try is the Bacon Beauty, a basket of just-right seasoned waffle fries, topped with cheddar jack cheese, real bacon, ranch, Greek onions and sour cream. The Satisfactory Truck @SatisfactoryTruck Devour Utah • August 2017 25
If you’re craving something that’s both satisfying and situated between buttery, perfectly toasted slices of sourdough, then head to the Urban Press truck. Along with the Trufflin’ Cheesesteak, their No. 1 dish to date is the Crispy Cuban pressed sandwich. Local chefs and owners Chip Jarman and Tasha Erickson are both uniquely trained as fine-dining cooks, and culinary school educated with a dedication to the traditional techniques and time that is required to create the best Cuban pork possible. “Consistency is key but we do strive to get better with every batch,” Jarman says. Along with being slow-cook masters and entrepreneurs, these two are engaged (wedding on September 2), both claiming that the only thing on earth they are more passionate about than food is each other. With hopes of opening a restaurant in the city someday, Jarman goes on to say, “We have a concept and overall style in mind of a place that is much needed in this town, and we think [it] will knock people’s socks off.” Until then, SLCers, the best way to find out where to find Urban Press is to follow them on Instagram @urbanpresstruck, however, urbanpresstruck.com works, too, as they post their food truck schedule there also.
DEREK CARLISLE
Tasha Erickson
DEREK CARLISLE
Chip Jarman
The Crispy Cuban
DEREK CARLISLE
Urban Press @urbanpresstruck
26 Devour Utah • August 2017
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Huge Menus • Gluten Free & Vegan Options ANNYSTAKEONTHAI.COM Devour Utah • August 2017 27
COURTESY OTHER SIDE FOOD TRUCK COURTESY OTHER SIDE FOOD TRUCK
28 Devour Utah • August 2017
COURTESY OTHER SIDE FOOD TRUCK
The Other Side Food Truck @tosafoodtruck
Blackberry Cheesecake
COURTESY OTHER SIDE FOOD TRUCK
“Do good while eating well” really resonates from this slightly trippy-colored food truck. Funnel cakes are the focus here, and, oh, the ways they go with them! The Other Side Food Truck is a nonprofit, culinaryspecialized training school for students at The Other Side Academy (TOSA) in downtown Salt Lake. Not a “re-hab” in the traditional sense, TOSA is a re-educational, two-year selfhelp community for men and women and offers its students a unique opportunity to develop skills that get them back on track while learning how to create healthy relationships. Beyond serving our community, TOSA operates one of the most fun, impeccably clean and professionally run food trucks in the line-up, and serves a sought-after dessert item— the glorious funnel cake—and does it extremely well. An off-menu summer favorite is the blackberry cheesecake. This sweet funnel cake is topped with blackberries, cream cheese frosting, white chocolate, whipped cream and a perfect graham cracker crumble. TOSA takes truck fair to a supremely decadent level. To get going on your food fruck adventure follow the The Food Truck League at: thefoodtruckleague.com/findtrucks ❖
JOIN US FOR DAILY LUNCH & DINNER SPEICALS
110 West Broadway | 385.259.0574 | Peeryhotel.com
Devour Utah • August 2017 29
Food Focused How a substitute schoolteacher turned her kitchen table into a lucrative career. By Aimee L. Cook Photos by Jordan Hukee
Y
ou know that moment when you decide to take on a new endeavor and you’re bracing yourself for the possibility that it might not go anywhere, but you take the leap anyway? Brooke Lark, elementary education teacher and momtrepreneur extraordinaire, is one of those great success stories. In 2006, after becoming a divorced single mom, Lark found herself with some free time on her hands when her twins, the youngest of her four children, went off to kindergarten. After a discussion with a friend about how people were making money from blogging, Lark decided to start one of her own: Conversations with a Cupcake. “I had been really proud of myself because, at the time, I wasn’t squandering my time on blogs, I was just devoted to my family and being a stay at home mom,” Lark says laughing. “Then I thought, ‘well if I could even make, like, $500 a month, I could put my kids in soccer or something.’” In the beginning, Lark had no idea about branding. She 30 Devour Utah • August 2017
had very little vision about what she wanted her blog to be, and zero photography experience, but with a point and shoot camera she jumped in and starting blogging about what she was doing every day, which in her world, was making dinner. “Food has always been a natural language for me,” Lark says. “So, I just started posting about what I made for dinner. After a week of that, I realized that if I just write down what I put into making that dinner, then I had written a recipe.” After six months, Lark had a sponsor sign on and she began making money on her blog and reaching her financial goal. After a year, Betty Crocker hired her to be on a creative team with other food bloggers, and from there, the money kept coming in. Once Lark began working with General Mills, other companies reached out to her. She then shifted her focus to client work. “If you had told me that my original goal of making $500 a month would have turned into a lucrative career, I would have never believed it,” she says. “My client list has
Food Photographer Brooke Lark
Devour Utah • August 2017 31
expanded greatly and I also manage a food blogging group where I teach people around the globe how to take pictures of food and use food creatively as a career choice.” Today, Lark has another successful blog, Cheeky Kitchen, and an amazing career in food photography, as a copywriter, cookbook author, brand consultant and recipe developer. Her client list includes General Mills, Good Cook, Tablespoon.com, Nature Nate’s Honey and Coupons.com.
A day in life of a food photographer Lark’s day starts with a few hours of computer work while the lighting isn’t great for shooting photos. After posting on her various social media channels, she’s off gathering last-minute props or supplies for the day’s shoot. Shooting starts at 10 a.m. and Lark typically preps and shoots all the food on the same day. That can be anywhere from two to five recipes a day, and she shoots until around 3 p.m. “There is just about as much time spent cleaning up and editing as there is shooting,” Lark says. “I shoot three to four days a week on average. For most of my clients, I create recipes for their sites and manage their blogs. Others, they send me the recipes to use and I make them and shoot them. Same with products.”
32 Devour Utah • August 2017
Food: a love/hate relationship Being surrounded by it so much on a daily basis has changed Lark’s relationship with food somewhat. Even with all the cooking going on in her house, the food created is rarely eaten by her family. “The kids are really used to weird foods being around, but they rarely like what I’m making so they eat typical kid stuff,” Lark says. “Being ahead of trends means you are making crazy stuff all the time. I pick all the Lucky Charm marshmallows out of the box and dissolve them in vodka to make shots. Who does that, right?” Lark says she still loves food, but her job definitely makes her tired of it. Food is so much more a function and an art form to her now. Long days mean she has tasted it, touched it and staged multiple times, creating a sensory overload. For those food bloggers or photographers waiting to get started or maybe have started and things seems to be moving slow, Lark has this advice. “Locate as many resources for creative work that you can, brand yourself right away, and know that it can be a slow road, but that there is always room for creatives.” ❖
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Devour Utah • August 2017 33
The 34 Devour Utah • August 2017
S
ince his days in the kitchen at the much-loved Metropolitan restaurant, Justin Shifflett has strived for perfection in his cooking. Now, as executive chef at Stoneground Kitchen, that same quest drives, for example, his search for the perfect pizza crust recipe, which has taken place over years and recently came to fruition following much experimentation. It’s an excellent pizza; time well spent. Stoneground owner Bob McCarthy generously contributes to the success in his kitchen by sparing no expense, providing pricey imported industrial-sized Italian mixers and a top-of-the-line pasta extruder/maker for his kitchen
staff to produce magnificent housemade doughs. It also allows Shifflett and his crew to create toothsome, top-notch housemade pasta, such as the squid-ink tagliatelle pasta that he lightly dresses with a chardonnaycream sauce, fresh oyster mushrooms, minced scallions, and tops with marvelous morsels of fresh lobster meat and claws. Like so many of Stoneground’s dishes, this one would be hard to improve on. ❖ Ted Scheffler Photos by Niki Chan
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Devour Utah • August 2017 35
Scheff’s Table: Ingredients: ½ pound dried chickpeas 2 ounces fresh cilantro, parsley, mint leaves or a mixture of all three 6 scallions, white and light green parts only, sliced 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 1-2 teaspoons ground cumin (I like more cumin in my falafel) ½ teaspoon ground coriander 2 teaspoons kosher salt Oil for frying
Method:
Easy From-Scratch Falafel Recipe and photos by Ted Scheffler
I
’ve made falafel at home using prepackaged falafel mix and canned chickpeas. Both were OK, but for the best falafel at home, you can’t beat making the mix from scratch using dried chickpeas. You should get a head start since the chickpeas need to soak overnight, but this recipe is every bit as easy as opening up cans of chickpeas or a boxed mix. One of my favorite cooking websites is Serious Eats, and the recipe this one is based on can be found there, along with a lengthy discussion on why dried chickpeas are essential to making great falafel. This recipe and method produces falafel that’s at least as good as you’ll find in most restaurants, and better than some!
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Rinse the chickpeas and put them in a large bowl or pot. Cover with cold water (leaving enough room for the peas to triple in volume) and let stand overnight at room temperature. When you’re ready to cook, drain, rinse and dry the chickpeas (a salad spinner works well for this). In a food processor, combine the chickpeas, herbs, scallions, garlic, cumin, coriander and salt. Pulse in the chickpeas until finely minced. Scrape down the sides with a spatula, as necessary. A handful of the mixture formed into a ball should just barely hold together. If not, process some more. Transfer the falafel mixture into a bowl, cover and place in the fridge for 15 minutes. Using a tablespoon, scoop out a heaping spoonful of the falafel mixture and gently shape by hand into a ball. Place on a clean plate and repeat with the remaining falafel mix. You should end up with 16-18 falafel balls. Fry the falafel balls, without crowding, in a Dutch oven, cast iron skillet or deep-fryer for about 3-4 minutes, keeping the temperature between 350 and 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Transfer the cooked falafel balls to a paper towel-lined plate or a paper shopping bag to drain. Sprinkle with a little salt. You can serve the falafel with pita or just by themselves. I like to top the falafel with tahini and hot sauce, preferably Sambal Oelek.
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Devour Utah • August 2017 37
Local Lady Boss
Bartenders I
By Chelsea Nelson Photos by Josh Scheuerman
t’s no secret that the bartending world is largely male dominated. Perhaps not in sheer numbers, but when it comes to the wage gap, women make 15 percent less than male bartenders. It’s also true that watering holes used to ban women entirely. As recently as 1968, women were fighting men-only bars as a Civil Rights issue, according to Georgina Hickey’s “Barred from the Barroom” article published in 1970. In fact, bartending has been noted as having the most dramatic effect on women’s access to male jobs after Title VII, the landmark Civil Rights Act of 1964. Before the act passed, 26 states legally banned women from bartending. The history behind drinking establishments and alcohol being available only to men might be one of the reasons the industry is still so man-centric. You might think the woman you see behind the bar is “only” a cocktail server—but stop and reconsider. In Salt Lake City, our lady bartenders aren’t just making waves locally, they are being recognized on national levels. These five educated, creative and strong women are changing the way that people perceive cocktail culture. They are heavy-hitters in the community, go-getters who set the bar high for themselves, and makers in an industry full of consumers who rarely appreciate the talent behind their perfect cocktails.
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Amy Eldredge Managing Partner, Under Current Bar Amy Eldredge is arguably the most respected craft cocktail expert in Utah. Her talent, drive, attention to detail and training programs have garnered high esteem in the cocktail community. Eldredge got her start at a country club—one that had a classic men-only restaurant and a bar that only allowed male bartenders. At 21, she found herself having to make a few margaritas for picky guests when the male bartender was suddenly called to an off-site event. The customers enjoyed her cocktails so much, she became the first female bartender there. And, while the establishment was hanging onto the “boys club” of yesteryear, they thrived on classic cocktails, which Eldredge learned and loved. The knowledge of these classic cocktails are what ended up landing her one of the most coveted apprenticeships in the country—under the late, great Sasha Petraske, proprietor of Milk and Honey in NYC, and one of the most influential people in the recent craft cocktail movement. Currently, Eldredge is the managing
partner at Under Current Bar, which boasts an extensive and impressive craft cocktail menu. It’s obvious her training under Petraske, as well as what she has worked hard to learn, have helped create our own local cocktail scene. Her expertise has been enlisted in multiple cocktail menus across the city. How does she feel about being a women in the industry? Well, she knows that she’s surprised some people along the way, but overall she feels the gender issue in local bartending hasn’t been a problem. “I personally believe that the acceptance and praise for women in this industry is helping feminism across the board,” she says. “It really was a male-dominant profession over the years, but I don’t think men think anything less of having a female bartender in front of them whatsoever.” And she loves her craft. “Bartending is active, exciting, creative—no two days are alike—and it’s a great way to build confidence. My goals are to educate people on drinking safely and cultivating the love of cocktails here in Salt Lake.”
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Natalie Hamilton Bar Manager, Tradition Salt Lake Natalie Hamilton is creating some of the best cocktails in Salt Lake City. She oversaw the cocktail program at Finca for quite a while, increasing the restaurant’s visibility as a cocktail bar and producing some of my favorite drinks ever. And now, she is an integral part in envisioning and executing the amazing bar program at the newly opened Tradition. For Hamilton, gender stereotypes have no place in her personal or professional life, and she pursued bartending because, “It just fit. It is artistic, it is creative, it is a profession that requires eloquence, education and
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passion.” And she definitely has all of those things. What she has seen, and what I heard from a few of these lady bartenders, is that customers often question if they even are a bartender. Almost all of them have been asked if “They could get the bartender for a question.” Of course, this always gives Hamilton a reason to showcase her amazing work, and she loves nothing more than taking care of her guests. “I love listening to guests try the first sip of the cocktail and love what they drink,” she says. “I love creating beautiful cocktails that are stunning and that give guests more than they were expecting.”
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Devour Utah • August 2017 41
Jessica Sandberg Bartender and Manager, Under Current Bar Sandberg has recently been jetsetting around the world with some of the best female bartenders in the country. This lady-boss drink slinger recently killed it on the national level, making the Top 16 at the incredibly competitive, ladies-only Speed Rack competition, which takes women’s bartending skills/pace to the next level. Sandberg’s excitement about cocktails is contagious. One thing that she says gives her an advantage about being a female bartender is, “having the ability to be empathetic with your guests and being able to pick up on their moods or unspoken needs or wants.” Sandberg has an innate nurturing sense about her, which gets customers ready to nerd out about spirits and cocktails. It’s quite fun to sit at her bar, and you really do feel pampered in a way that’s uniquely her own. Sandberg has found that Salt Lake City encourages her bartending goals. “Everyone in Salt Lake is so supportive of all of us female bartenders,” she says. “I am hard pressed to think of something that negatively impacted me from within the bartending community. I have so many amazing regulars that have been following my progress with Speed Rack and are so excited for everything I do. This community is the best.”
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Carly Bringhurst Bar Manager, Lake Effect Bringhurst is a familiar face in the bartending community. She’s worked at Bar X and Under Current, and you can now find her at Lake Effect. She has a quiet deliberateness about her, and if you watch her creating cocktails, you can see her intensity and passion right away. She takes her craft seriously, and produces some incredibly beautiful and delicious libations. She recently took home the No. 1 spot in the United States Bartenders Guild (USBG) Utah Chapter’s yearly cocktail competition. Bringhurst was one of only two female participants, and I was lucky enough to watch her dominate—and ultimately win—while up against some of the most talented drink slingers in Salt Lake. I also saw our community beam with pride at her win, which was awesome to witness. She is truly loved by her peers and colleagues. The USBG win is only part of proving her chops however, and what she is most proud of, “is earning the respect of the masters that I have always looked up to so much,” she says. As for the future, “I plan to continue educating myself about all things related to adult beverages and to keep on sharing that knowledge with everyone around me. Our city needs to be more educated about craft cocktails and I want to be a big part of that.”
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Tracy Gomez Bar Manager, Finca Gomez is an amazing bartender who currently runs the bar program at Finca. And, as the vice president of Utah’s Chapter of the United States Bartenders Guild (USBG), she is the orchestrator of a lot of what is going on in our cocktail community; you might even call her a professional bartender wrangler. The work that she puts into cultivating events, communicating to the bartending community and marketing the local USBG should be applauded. She has helped create an amazing, supportive group of bartenders and enthusiasts. Additionally, as the new bar manager at Finca, she’s working hard to make sure Finca is seen as a go-to craft cocktail bar by bringing her own vibe and flair to the menu. “Women are caretakers by nature so it’s the women in the industry in particular that excel at hospitality in my opinion,” Gomez says
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about women bartenders. “We are also excellent multitaskers, which is crucial in a busy bar. The challenges mirror those experienced by women in other industries. Women get things done.” She is a caretaker of her guests, but she’s also taking on so much more than making drinks. She is a creator of experiences, and is continually looking for new ways to do that. And, since Salt Lake City is so incredibly supportive of female bartenders, Bringhurst feels optimistic that there really is “no glass ceiling to shatter.” “I’m exceedingly proud of what we are doing here—despite nonsensical liquor laws—and it is so gratifying to impress out-of-towners who think it’s impossible to get a drink in Utah,” she says. “I’m grateful to the ladies in particular who have helped lead the way.” ❖
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Scheff’s Table: Ingredients: 1 stick (8 ounces) unsalted butter 1 cup whipping cream Freshly ground black pepper Salt 1 pound top-quality dried pasta, such as pappardelle 1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more to pass at the table.
Easy Pasta Alfredo
O
Recipe and photos by Ted Scheffler
ne of my favorite guilty pleasures is pasta with Parmesan-cream sauce, usually called Alfredo. Some Alfredo sauce recipes call for cream, others don’t. I like both versions. Kids tend to enjoy the creamier style like this. While it’s very simple to make, the key to making great pasta Alfredo is using top-quality ingredients. Real Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese is a must, as is highquality pasta, cream and butter. You can use any type of pasta you’d like with the recipe, I just happen to like hearty pappardelle. This dish can be made in a matter of minutes—no longer than it takes to cook the pasta, so make sure you have all the ingredients prepped and ready to go before you throw the noodles in the water.
Method: In a large deep-sided sauce pan or skillet, melt the butter. Add the cream and bring to a simmer. Add ground black pepper to taste (I like a lot of pepper in my Alfredo sauce) Cook the pasta according to package directions until just al dente in heavily salted water (2 tablespoons or so). Reserve ¼ cup of the pasta cooking water. Drain the pasta well. Add the pasta to the butter-cream sauce and toss well with the cup of Parmigiano-Reggiano. If necessary, use the reserved pasta water to loosen the pasta and sauce a bit. Serve immediately with additional Parmigiano-Reggiano at the table. ❖
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Devour Utah • August 2017 49
Mixology
101
Go bold with garnishes Words and photos By Darby Doyle
T
he chef’s adage “you eat with your eyes first” applies equally to cocktails. A bartender’s technique toolbox might start with a jigger and shaker, but it’s often the final presentation that steals the show. In the case of lemon zest on a Sazerac or a quality cherry in a Manhattan, a subtle garnish does more than provide decoration: It’s an integral part of the drink’s flavorful finish. On the other hand, both bloody marys and Tiki drinks are famous for over-the-top garnishes synonymous with ostentatious accouterment. We’ve seen bloodys with practically the entire brunch buffet teetering on top and flaming Tiki spectacles incorporating half of a Whole Foods produce section. Here are four lesser-known cocktails in the “garnishes gone wild” category, with ingredients and basic technique available to most home bartenders, all with stunning results—no fire extinguisher needed. Continue on page 52
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Michelada The Garnish:
Tejín-seasoned rim, grilled shrimp, celery
M
ove over, bloody mary. Mexico’s masterful concoction of cerveza preparada makes for a bright and zippy brunch accompaniment and is particularly refreshing on a hot summer morning. There are as many interpretations of this beer-based cocktail as there are distinct culinary regions of Mexico, with mix-ins like lime juice, hot sauce, spices and the oft-debated preference for straight tomato juice or
Clamato (mixed with clam juice). Usually served over ice with a spiced or salted rim, it’s an ingenius south-of-the-border solution to beating the heat. This recipe is reminiscent of a Michelada Loca I enjoyed after a long morning mackerel fishing in Cabo San Lucas. The server brought a goblet to the table with a half-dozen shrimp still steaming from the grill and tipped an entire mini-bottle of Corona right into the middle of the drink. ¡Salud!
Michelada Loca 1 tablespoon tejín spice (a Mexican spice with chile and lime zest)
½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ lime, juiced (reserve spent shell) 2-3 dashes hot sauce 2-3 dashes Maggi or soy sauce ½ cup Clamato juice (tomato and clam juice) 1 Mexican lager beer of choice 4-6 shrimp, cleaned and grilled 1 celery stalk with leaves
On a small shallow plate, mix together tejín spice and salt. Rub the rim of a goblet or oversized martini or margarita glass with the reserved lime, dip into spice mixture to coat. In a separate container, add lime juice, hot sauce, Maggi sauce and Clamato or tomato juice. Stir well to combine. Fill goblet with ice, add Clamato mixture, pour beer into the glass to the rim. Garnish with grilled shrimp and celery stalk. Often this drink is served with the remaining beer on the side. 52 Devour Utah • August 2017
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Aviation The Garnish:
Cotton candy & paper airplane
A
lthough it was undoubtedly shaken up well before then, 1916 saw the first published Aviation cocktail recipe via New York City barman Hugo Ensslin. This’d be during America’s fledgling flirtation with all things flyboy-related. (Quick U.S. History refresher: Wright Brothers, 1903, Kitty Hawk, steampunk goggles. Caught up?) The gin martini spin incorporated crème de violette, a floral purple liqueur giving the chilled cocktail a hazy lilac hue reminiscent of a dusky sky. During Prohibition, French crème de violette was rarer than hen’s teeth in the U.S., but after WWII, it became more readily available at the same time commercial air travel was economically feasible for middle-class Americans. In
comparison with our current environment of pajamawearing hordes and the indignities of compulsory disrobing and TSA pat-downs, the 1950s seem like travel’s halcyon days—at least as far as fashion and cocktails go, with air hostesses and stewardesses trained in the art of shaking and stirring dry martinis by request in the smokefilled cabin. Although the cocktail is traditionally served with only a maraschino cherry dropped into the bottom of the glass, it’s a drink screaming for a little more drama. In this case, a “cloud” of Utah-made Lollipuff lavender cotton candy (when dissolved into the drink, it provides a sweetness usually made with a touch more simple syrup) and a tiny paper airplane.
Aviation (adapted from New York’s Death & Co. Modern Classic Cocktails) 2 ounces London dry gin (try New World’s Oomaw gin for a local spin) ½ ounce Luxardo Maraschino liqueur ½ teaspoon crème de violette ¾ ounce fresh lemon juice 2 dashes simple syrup Add all ingredients to a shaker with ice, shake until tin is frosty. Strain into a chilled coupe glass. Drop a brandied cherry to the bottom of the glass. Pull a piece of cotton candy that reaches just past two rims of the glass and garnish with a paper airplane.
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Pimm’s Cup The Garnish:
Cucumber spiral, strawberry slices, citrus zest
P
imm’s No. 1 liqueur has a long and storied history in England, being a secret recipe developed as a tonic sometime in the 1840s in a London oyster house. A gin-based herbal liqueur with a relatively low proof (25 percent alcohol by volume), it’s usually used as a base mixer served highball-style with ice and ginger beer or lemon-lime soda, which Brits call “lemonade.” Over the years, the Pimm’s company made additional versions (No. 2 with Scotch and No. 3 with brandy, up to No. 6 made with vodka), which have gone in and out of style. You’ll find elaborately garnished Pimm’s cups served in oversized wine goblets at posh events like tennis tournaments, polo matches and regattas, but it’s just as likely to be found poured by the pitcher in a London oyster house. The most basic recipes call for a couple ounces of Pimm’s poured over ice with an equal amount of ginger beer served on top. With apologies to my British friends, my favorite Pimm’s cups cut some of the drink’s traditional sweetness with a splash of dry gin and a touch of lemon juice. The elaborate garnishing, though, is a must-do on either side of the pond.
Pimm’s Cup ½ ounce London dry gin 1½ ounces Pimm’s No. 1 liqueur Juice of one quartered lemon (remove the zest of the lemon first in a spiral) 2 ounces ginger beer 1 hothouse or Persian cucumber Cut a large long hothouse or Persian cucumber in half lengthwise. Using a vegetable peeler, peel a long strip of cucumber from the cut face going end-to-end to make one continuous wide strip. Starting at the bottom edge of a tall Collins-style glass or wine glass, mold the cucumber strip to the inside wall of the glass, working in loose spiral to the top. Fill glass with ice. To a mixing glass, add gin, Pimm’s liqueur and lemon juice (with no ice) and stir briefly to combine; pour into cucumber-trimmed serving glass. Add ginger beer to the top of the glass and garnish with elaborate lemon zest, cucumber “flowers,” strawberry slices, candied kumquats or other fruits (the more obnoxious the better). Serve with a straw. 56 Devour Utah • August 2017
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Knickerbocker N
ow virtually extinct, in our humble opinion the Knickerbocker cocktail deserves a resurrection. This class of cocktails rising from New York in the 1850s and ’60s had at its base a heady combination of rum, citrus juice, fruit syrup and Curaçao, and was perhaps named after the Empire State’s Knickerbocker Ice Co. A good bet, considering its role as one of the first punches to be served with copious amounts of shaved ice. Drinks historian David Wondrich calls the Knickerbocker “the spiritual progenitor of the Tiki drink,” also associated with the fly fellas who drank these refreshing coolers in the summertime wearing their knickerbocker truncated knee-breeches. Keep it local using one of Utah’s many rum producers (Dented Brick, Distillery 36, Kid Curry, Outlaw Distillery or Sugar House Distillery) and make the raspberry syrup from berries snagged at a weekend farmers market. In true proto-Tiki fashion, this drink deserves presentation in vintage glassware with some serious fruit salad garnish on top. Bonus: if you can find them, edible flowers make a pretty (and delicious) topper.
The Garnish:
Citrus wheels, pineapple, edible flowers
Knickerbocker à la Monsieur
Adapted from Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails by Ted Haigh
1 ounce white rum ½ ounce aged Caribbean rum ½ ounce orange Curaçao ½ ounce raspberry syrup* 1 ounce fresh lemon juice
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This cocktail is made in the style of a punch: All ingredients are mixed together briefly in a separate glass (with no ice), stirred to combine and poured into a goblet filled with crushed ice. Garnish with sliced orange and pineapple pieces and, why the hell not, some maraschino cherries and hibiscus flowers. *To make the raspberry syrup, combine 1 cup raspberries with 1/3 cup sugar, ½ teaspoon lemon juice and 2 tablespoons water in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, and cook until fruit has broken down and released all juices and mixture begins to thicken (about 15-20 minutes). Remove from heat, strain through fine mesh to remove solids. Will keep in an airtight container refrigerated for up to two weeks. Makes about ½ cup. ❖
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DINING IS THE DESTINATION with Taste Utah!
B
ehind every good food story, is a great Taste Utah creates three dining regions within people story. At the Utah Restaurant the larger state of Utah dividing Northern Association we know it’s the people Region, Wasatch Front, and Southern Region. who are the heart of Utah’s restaurant This year we introduced Taste Park City to our industry and food community. From interactive dining guide at www.tasteUT.com the hands planting the seeds where we have over 80 videos to inspire NORTHERN and harvest the produce to the you towards your next dining adventure. chef carefully and thoughtfully crafting a We encourage you to taste along with menu and preparing the plate, dedicated us by using #tasteutah on all your food WASATCH FRONT managers, servers, back of the house, front and adventure photography. August of the house, and especially customers is the last month of summer, join us who are all intricate parts of the recipe to and go Taste Utah! Follow the itineraries SOUTHERN Utah’s success. Taste Utah shares our Utah below and hashtag #TasteUtahSouthern food story and encourages dining be your #TasteUtahNorthern #TasteUtahWasatch destination. Our mission is to guide you through to be entered to win prizes including over night Utah’s diverse culinary landscape and encourage stays in one of the Utah regions, gift certificates, your next food adventure because there is always gas cards and other prizes. The more you taste, a reason to eat out. the more chances you have to win.
60 Devour Utah • August 2017
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Brunch: Rooster’s Brewing Co Brunch. Historic 25th Street Ogden Begin this dining is the destination day trip at Roosters Brewing Co on historic 25th street in Ogden. Brunch begins at 10:00am on the weekends so enjoy a jeans and tee shirt pace. Enjoy a covered patio, locals chatting and a brunch with plenty of palette pleasing weekend fare. The Kahlua Waffles, Huevos Rancheros or the mighty Bread Pudding French Toast are all worthy of your consideration. Don’t be shy to ask your server about a must hit mountain bike trail in the area or discover a new found appreciation for Ogden’s rich rail road history.
Lunch : Tandoori Oven 720 E 1000 S Logan Head North on I15 to Logan Utah. Fruit stands and a Saturday Gardeners Market are a few of the charmed adventures along the way. You will find a few Taste Utah favorites at the Cache Valley Gardeners Market (Saturday mornings 9:00am - 1:00pm) including Slide Ridge Honey and vinegars as well as First Frost Farms famous heirloom garlic. Stop by one of Logan’s most unique gas station convenience stores for a full tank of gas and an incredible authentic Indian menu at Tandoori Oven at 720 E. 1000 North, Logan. When you walk in to this Utah Dining Destination you are greeted by one of the friendly Arora family members. This cozy Southern Indian eatery is full of charm. The menu is a tapestry of traditional Indian flavor thanks to the Arora family’s talent, passion and their special Tandoori oven- a traditional clay pot oven used to prepare several of the locals favorites from naan to the signature dish Tandoori Masala Chicken.
Lebeau’s Drive In 69 N Bear Lake Blvd Garden City Logan Canyon to Bear Lake. If Northern Utah mountain scenery is what you seek, your heart and soul will be satisfied. Logan Canyon hosts nearly vertical limestone walls and rock formations, pines and aspens and the Logan River which parallels the route. This canyon’s twists and turns, the full sun and altitude will easily make a stop into Labeau’s Drive In a necessity. Raspberry season must not be missed in the form of an over the rim Labeau’s signature raspberry shake. Take it to go and cross the street to the lake. Yes, it’s summer. Enjoy!
NORTHERN Northern Utah is home to Utah’s agricultural mecca where farm to table is a way of life. Restaurant owners and purveyors share an enthusiasm for great food, active lifestyles and hometown values.
Dinner: The Mandarin 348 E 900 N, Bountiful Drive through Laketown toward Randolph and Woodruff. These small town highways will give you a taste of how diverse northern Utah land really is. Continue toward Huntsville and finally reaching Ogden again. Complete your road trip loop through Bountiful Utah where the famous Mandarin restaurant will welcome your days mileage through a journey of ethnic cuisine. The Mandarin is an award winning Chinese restaurant tucked away within an unassuming Bountiful neighborhood. Although the Mandarin doesn’t take reservations for parties less than eight, call ahead to be placed on the seating list. Famous for their signature sauces, knowyou-by-name servers and dinner options such as; Singapore Noodles, Mongolian Pork, or the Eight Treasure Vegetable you will complete this Utah Dining Destination by going global.
Devour Utah • August 2017 61
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WASATCH FRONT Dining at high elevation along the Wasatch Front is more than fueling up, it is an experience. Surrounded by mountains, culture, and food enthusiast hot spots – dining is the destination.
Breakfast: Bake 360 725 E 12300 S, Draper Located directly off freeway exit 12300 on I-15, Bake 360 is known for their extraordinary pastries shelf. Chef Roy Olsen has a reputation for only using real ingredients, no artificial flavors or colors here. His Norwegian roots are at the foundation of all his cooking and the food menu is no exception and in fact rivals the delectability of their sweets. From a traditional savory breakfast of Eggs en Croque, Steak & Eggs, Heuvos Rancheros, Bake 360 isn’t just for pastries. Begin your Wasatch Front dining journey in Draper by stopping by Bake 360 for breakfast.
Lunch: Vernal Brewing Company 55 S 500 E, Vernal After filling up the belly and you gas tank, get cozy and take the scenic route through Provo Canyon, up through Heber. You’ll connect onto highway 40, heading to the eastern most corner of the Wasatch Front, on your way through Dinosaur country, the heart of Uintah county and Vernal Brewing Company. The VBC, as they are known to locals and regulars, is brewing their own award-winning beer while growing their own produce and partnering with local vendors like Gold Creek Dairy to create specialty cheese plates that will satisfy even the most eclectic palate.
Dinner: Silver Star Cafe 1825 Three Kings Dr, Park City Finding your way back on Highway 40, head west on your way to Park City. For this taste adventure you’ll bypass the familiar Historic Main Street and head toward the dining district nestled directly under the Silver Star run of Park City Mountain Resort and 3 Kings Drive — the Silver Star Cafe. Known for their accessibility to mountain adventurers you can hike in, bike in, ski in or drive to Silver Star. In the summer the patio is bustling and this dining destination is becoming quite the musical venue for year round live performances. Park City is so temperate you can dine alfresco all summer long, under the Mountain sky overlooking the lush links of the Park City Golf Course. Their menu is dynamic and diverse, utilizing the wood-fire oven to cook their succulent Pork Osso Bucco, creating menu items like house-made herbed Späetzle and their wide variety of fresh and funky craft cocktails. Complete your Wasatch Front day of dining by pulling up a piece of patio and being serenaded and nourished at Silver Star Cafe.
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Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
The culinary landscape in Southern Utah is as diverse as the terrain. From mom and pop eateries to fine dining, Southern Utah is unlike any other place on earth. We always encourage chasing daylight to your next dining destination. Rise with the sun and dine under the stars.
Breakfast: Cordwood formerly Buffalo Grill 9065 East Highway 9, Zion Begin your day by making your way to the Eastern Rim of Zion National Park. Experience sweeping vistas as the sun rises over beautiful plateaus and mesas. Discover Cordwood restaurant located at the Zion Mountain Ranch and enjoy a breakfast of farm fresh eggs, freshly harvested greens and house-made toast at. With two green houses, aquaponic farms, chickens and buffalo, they are executing a farm to table menu flawlessly. Enjoy a unique breakfast experience unlike any other.
SOUTHERN
Lunch: Forscher Bakery and Cafe 110 E State St, Orderville Nestled between Bryce Canyon and Zion National Park is the quaint town of Orderville and the Forscher Bakery and Cafe. It is a Southern Utah oasis for a weary adventurer’s sweet tooth. This authentic German Bakery is making fresh bread paring them with hearty sandwiches, German bratwurst and sausages, potato salad to-die-for, pizzas and much more. But the icing on the cake in this authentic German Bakery are the beautifully baked on site German pastries imported directly from their sister bakery in Germany. We recommend picking up a few of these delightful treats to enjoy on their patio and a few more for the road!
Dinner: Cafe Diablo 599 W Main St, Torrey One doesn’t need to sell their soul to dine in style in Southern Utah, you just need to find yourself at Cafe Diablo. You can walk through the doors in your shorts and hiking shoes kissed by the red sands of any number of state and national parks. The only accessory you’ll need at this spot is your appetite. Which, considering they’re located in Torrey, at the doorstep of Capitol Reef shouldn’t be too difficult a task. Don’t be fooled by the word Cafe in their name because this restaurant is growing their own produce and hand rolling and making pasta from scratch. They are staying true to their Torrey roots by incorporating ingredients native to the landscape while engraining their signature big city flavor into menu items like their staple Rattlesnake Cakes, Rack Of Ribs and seasonal salads. Fuel your adventure here.
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Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
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Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
Thank You
We extend an enthusiastic thank you to all industry allies that participated in the 2017 Annual Golf Tournament and Summer Social in partnership with the ACF Beehive Chef’s Chapter.
TEAM SPONSORS Arctic Circle Bintz Restaurant Supply Chuck A Rama Deer Valley Resort Del Taco Even Stevens Gallagher Presidio Gastronomy Heartland Payment Systems It’s All Good Cafe KFC Lagoon Log Haven Nicholas And Company Park City Area Restaurant Association R-3 Redistribution Ruth’s Chris Park City Sinclair Oil Sizzling Platter Southern Wine And Spirits Subway Sysco Temple Square Hospitality US Foods Wendy’s Workers Compensation Fund
HOLE / TEE SPONSORS Arctic Circle Bintz Restaurant Supply BizWear Chuck A Rama Current Promotions Even Stevens Gallagher Presidio Gastronomy Restaurants International House Of Pancakes Lagoon McDonald’s Model Linen Mountain West Commercial Real Estate Nicholas And Company R3 Redistribution Red Rock Redmond Rimini Coffee Ruth’s Chris Park City Wendy’s Sprague Sysco Utah Dairy Council Uinta Brewing WCF Wells fargo Young’s Wasatch Resource Recovery
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Last Bite:
A Trip to Wine Camp Getting gone in valleys & vineyards. By Francis Fecteau
W
hen you live in the world of wine, I know it’s time to go when I can no longer answer the following questions: How long should I hold on to this wine? (Until you’re thirsty, because it’s not going to reach a magic moment four years, three months, four weeks, 12 days four hours, 12 minutes and 37 seconds from now.) What’s your favorite wine? (The one that’s open!) I get peppered with the same questions so often that it feels like drinking coffee with a fork (hat tip to Reggie Jackson). If you are talking about wine for more than five minutes at the dinner table, then you are either in the wine business or you’ve lost the point. Wine is social lubrication. It isn’t meant for altars, much less extended dialogue and labored, turgid, hyper-verbalizing. And if you aren’t remembering perfume, falling in love, starting an argument or finishing one over a glass of wine, then may I suggest a tall 40? I am not here to make you feel better about your latest acquisition of overpriced cabernet or hipster natural mayhem of which nine cases might have made it to the U.S. To quote the great Italian cook and author Marcella Hazan, “Blandness is not a virtue and tastelessness is not a joy.” This is not an objective universe. Nowhere are these despicable overintellectualizing tendencies more rampant than within the foodand-wine industry. To that end, a few years ago, I created the ongoing Wine Camp educational program where I bring food-andwine industry folks to wine country with the intention of giving them a chance to understand what it takes to bring this unnecessarily hallowed liquid from dirt to bottle. This means in the spring, we literally shovel shit (compost),
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pluck leaves, thin canopies and plant vineyards. And in the fall, we sort, stomp and pick. We lift that barge and tote that bail. People get sunburned, they get sore backs and blisters, and with these exertions, they draw closer to earth, they make connections and develop appreciation for the literal fruits of labor. They connect with the backbreaking agricultural work that brings grapes to the table. They break from glossy high-priced magazine ads and remember that, as with any great work of art, it’s labor that brings it to bear. Wine is not magic. Restaurant work is a maddening way to make a living but I’ve never lost my respect and appreciation for the thankless, often physical, work that it entails. It takes a dedication and passion to source great things and perform the alchemy that puts great food on the table. Sourcing wine should be considered with equal care and affection. Proust didn’t ramble on about Madeleines without reason, nor did Hemingway always drink to get loaded. Those sensory inputs sparked brilliant outpourings of emotion and a depth of connection to life envied by all who read them. As founder and owner of Libation, Inc., all I’ve really wanted to do is elevate the dialogue on the matter, and that’s what I’ve always hoped Wine Camp would do: deflate the egopolluting dialogue that too often chases people from the table. And isn’t that the point? To bring people to the table for a moment of communion? It’s always a highlight each season when the day’s labor is done, when I see the lightbulbs go off, and when I see disparate people set a common table and share themselves over food and wine. ❖
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SPONSORED BY: UTAH BEER FESTIVAL TICKET IS VALID AS TRANSIT FARE FOR UTA (PRE-SALE ONLY) Devour Utah • August 2017 67
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