vol. 4 no. 2 • FEBRUARY 2018 • LOVE
Mardi Gras Cocktails p. 48
It’s time to
Spice Advice p. 38 Lucky Foods for Chinese New Year p.32
A Table Set With Love p. 14
Utah Restaurant Association p. 56
Devour Utah • February 2018 1
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Devour Utah • February 2018 3
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Raw Love
Oysters for starters BY HEATHER L. KING
Splendid Table Tablescapes of love BY CHRISTA ZARO
Torch Songs Songs that sizzle BY DARBY DOYLE
The Spread Veggie House
BY AMANDA ROCK
Things We Love Four ravishing reds BY JIM SANTANGELO
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A Sweet Stroll
Great desserts downtown BY AIMEE L. COOK
Romantic Mole
A meal to melt the heart BY ARI LEVAUX
Lucky Dog
Chinese New Year’s fare BY HEATHER KING
Spice Advice Out with the old!
BY REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ
Plate It
The Bayou’s Cajun burrito BY JERRE WROBLE
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Spirit Guide NOLA cocktails BY DARBY DOYLE
Last Bite
Soap stars rule BY JEN HILL
Devour Utah • February 2018 5
DEVOUR Contributors STAFF Publisher JOHN SALTAS Editorial Editor Copy Editor Proofreader Contributors
Photographers
JERRE WROBLE SARAH ARNOFF LANCE GUDMUNDSEN AIMEE L. COOK, DARBY DOYLE, JEN HILL, HEATHER L. KING, ARI LEVAUX, REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ, AMANDA ROCK, JIM SANTANGELO, CHRISTA ZARO NIKI CHAN, DARBY DOYLE, CAROLYN HARGRAVES, JOHN TAYLOR
Christa Zaro is an East Coast transplant who has called Salt Lake City home for the past 25 years. A yoga mom to two adorable boys, her blog— iforgotmymantra.com—is filled with personal writing, recipes and style advice gleaned from shopping excursions ranging from Paris to Sayulita, Mexico.
Production Art Director Assistant Art Director Graphic Artists
DEREK CARLISLE BRIAN PLUMMER JOSH SCHEUERMAN, SOFIA CIFUENTES VAUGHN ROBISON
Business/Office Accounting Manager Office Administrator Technical Director
PAULA SALTAS ANNA KASER BRYAN MANNOS
Writer and recovering archaeologist Darby Doyle highlights hip SLC as a cityhomeCollective contributor. She also blogs about boozy experiments at abourbongal.com.
Marketing Marketing Manager
JACKIE BRIGGS
Circulation Circulation Manager
ERIC GRANATO
Sales Magazine Advertising Director Newsprint Advertising Director Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives
JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF PETE SALTAS ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER ANNE BAILEY, LISA DORELLI, ALEX MARKHAM, MIEKA SAWATZKI,JEREMIAH SMITH
Ari LeVaux writes Flash in the Pan, a syndicated weekly food column that’s appeared in more than 50 newspapers in 25 states. His column regularly appears online at TheAtlantic.com, Alternet, Slate and other sites. Ari lives in Missoula, Mont.
Cover Photo: Table setting at the Glass House by John Taylor Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email Editor@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com
Copperfield Publishing Copyright 2018. All rights reserved @DevourUtah
6 Devour Utah • February 2018
@DevourUtah
@DevourUtah
Aimee L. Cook writes for several local publications. She enjoys reviewing all things art, entertainment and food related.
A family of restaurants with
SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE!
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Devour Utah • February 2018 7
CSA Utah
Free Open House Event
Meet Local Farmers Comparison Shop Harvest Share Programs
Pre-purchase a season-long share of the harvest with a local farm. Community Supported Agriculture is your chance to provide your family with fresh produce and other farm products throughout the season, while, at the same time, supporting a local farm.
When: Wed. March 7 | 6-8pm Where: Wheeler Farm Activity Barn 635. South, 900 East Salt Lake City, Utah 84121
See csautah.org for more details 8 Devour Utah • February 2018
THE SPICY LIFE
A
h, Valentine’s Day! A day of obligatory sweetness, grand gestures, the requisite dinner and frantic purchases of cards, candies and flowers—all in the hopes of impressing someone who mostly was sold on you (or not) before February 14. And for those who’ve yet to meet “the one” (that would be me for most of my life before age 50), the holiday serves as a cruel reminder that you’re desperate and dateless for no other reason than it’s February 14. Jaded I might be, I could have skipped the “It’s Time to Love” theme for the February Devour. But I’m glad I didn’t. Because Christa Zaro’s feature on how to set a “splendid table” for Valentine’s Day and Darby Doyle’s musical compilation for cooking up love (“Torch Songs”) made me realize that I could do better. I should do better when it comes to setting the mood for love and conviviality in my life. And not just because it’s the 14th of February. Heather King’s “Lend Me Your Lips” rekindled my curiosity about the alleged aphrodisiacal properties of raw oysters while Ari LeVaux’s mole recipe would set any lover’s heart on fire. Wine professor Jim Santangelo’s “Four Ravishing Reds” could help fan the flames of romance. Aimee Cook’s “Sweet Stroll” cuts to the chase, with amazing desserts to share with a lover or friend at downtown eateries after—or in place of—dinner. February is more than one night of courtship. As February 16 kicks off the Chinese New Year, Heather King divulges auspicious Asian foods to fortify good luck while Amanda Rock highlights the impressive vegan offerings of Veggie House. Just in time for Mardi Gras, Darby Doyle’s “Sass in the Glass” highlights the history and recipes of New Orleans cocktails. If you have spices in your life, it might be time to “sniff them goodbye.” Chef Rebecca Ory Hernandez delivers the bad news that many of our spices have but a six-month shelf life. She offers organizational tips to make them easier to find and use. And while we’re cleaning house, Jen Hill’s “Soap Stars” suggests that one way to show love to the cook is to offer to do the dishes. Now, that’s what I call love! Reading this issue, it becomes clear how much we all crave connection. Sharing a meal or drink is one way to build a bridge. Sure, it might be with a long-time companion, but why not with a co-worker, grandparent or friend from high school? As Christa Zaro writes, “Always be courting”—always be celebrating love—even when you’re just setting the table. ❤ —Jerre Wroble editor@DevourUtah.com
Devour Utah • February 2018 9
Lend Me Your
Set romance in motion with oyster appetizers By Heather L. King
O
ysters have a romantic reputation. Raw oysters are said to have aphrodisiac properties perfect for dreamy dinner celebrations—despite the scientific proof being less than definitive. Yet, desire and demand are powerful forces, and Utahns’ lust for briny shellfish is perhaps only outweighed by that of those with whom we enjoy them. Budget-minded lovers can satisfy their oysteron-the-half-shell cravings on Mondays with halfprice deals at Under Current (279 E. 300 South, Salt Lake City, 801-574-2556, UndercurrentBar/com) and Market Street Oyster Bar (multiple locations, MarketStreetOysterBar.com). For those willing to splurge, we combed restaurants across the Wasatch Front and Back to discover our favorite oyster offerings (both raw and cooked). Now get slurping! 10 Devour Utah • February 2018
Oysters Rockefeller $16
PHOTO COURTESY OF RIVERHORSE ON MAIN
Oysters Rockefeller With Mardi Gras (Fat Tuesday) festivities on deck through Tuesday, Feb. 13, it seems only right to raise our glasses to the New Orleans’ creation of oysters Rockefeller as we celebrate this magnificent mollusk. White Horse Executive Chef Matt Crandall crafted his version to feature absinthe instead of Pernod for a pungent anise kick alongside house-smoked bacon—made from cured Snake River Farms Kurobuta pork belly. All these elements top fresh Taylor Shellfish Pacific oysters that are baked together with creamed spinach, hollandaise and a flourish of golden bread crumbs for a rich and creamy bite of the South.
Oysters on the Half Shell $20
White Horse 325 S. Main, SLC 801-363-0137 WhiteHorseSLC.com
Oysters on the half shell
DEREK CARLISLE
Take your pick of either East or West Coast oysters served raw or broiled on the half shell at this Park City culinary institution at the heart of historic Main Street. Co-owner and executive chef Seth Adams has carefully crafted two memorable oyster options: raw shellfish served with a house mignonette and a gorgeous candied citrus segment, or the Riverhorse Rockefeller selection featuring bacon and pimento cheese broiled to bubbly perfection. Paired with spectacular views of the ski slopes and a glass (or bottle) of bubbles from the impressive wine list, it’s sure to make your love smile. Riverhorse on Main 540 Main, Park City 435-649-3536 RiverhorseParkCity.com Devour Utah • February 2018 11
All-inclusive buffet featuring raw oysters & fried oyster po'boy If having access to 60 dozen freshshucked raw oysters in one evening is your idea of romance, then Deer Valley’s seafood buffet is where you need to be. Head chef Ryan Estel says he and his staff begin shucking oysters about an hour before service six nights a week and constantly restock the iced oyster bar all evening. On busy nights, they’ve been known to shuck up to 1,200 Pacific oysters—ranging from Calm Cove and Hammersley to Eagle Rock and Church Point. But if raw oysters don’t make you swoon, try the occasionally offered po’boy with oysters soaked in buttermilk and Tabasco then rolled in panko and cornmeal and lightly fried. They’re served on a soft hoagie roll with a kicky Cajun rémoulade.
Seafood Buffet $70
TONYA SONKINS
Seafood Buffet at Deer Valley Snow Park Village 2250 Deer Valley Drive South, Park City 425-645-6632 DeerValley.com
Baked oysters
Kimi’s Chop & Oyster House 2155 S. Highland Drive, SLC 801-946-2079 KimisHouse.com
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Baked Oysters $10
PHOTO COURTESY KIMI’S CHOP & OYSTER HOUSE
Nestled at the heart of Sugar House’s ballooning commercial district, Kimi’s Chop & Oyster House resides in the beautifully restored post office building on Highland Drive. It’s the perfect atmosphere for couples to savor baked oysters, offered on the tapas menu. Whether enjoyed in the swanky lounge area or distinctive dining room, the plump mollusks are topped with applewood smoked bacon and herb butter plus diced sweet baby peppers for texture and freshness. Bread crumbs finish each oyster for a warm, delectable nibble. You can also mix and match raw oysters for $4 each, served with the housemade mignonette of the day. ❤
270 South Rio Grande St. In the Historic Rio Grande Train Station www.riograndecafeslc.com
thedodorestaurant.com • (801) 486-2473 • 1355 East 2100 South Devour Utah • February 2018 13
WE’VE GOT TONIGHT, WHO NEEDS TOMORROW? WE’VE GOT TONIGHT, BABE, WHY DON’T YOU STAY?
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SPLENDID
Set the mood for an unforgettable meal By Christa Zaro Photos by John Taylor
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s the idea of sitting elbow to elbow at a restaurant with your sweetheart not what you had in mind on Valentine’s Day? Are reservations at your favorite restaurant impossible to get? Do you have young children in tow and can’t find a sitter? Well, I feel you, and that’s why I prefer to celebrate Valentine’s Day at home with takeout Thai food and a bottle of prosecco. But that’s not to say I don’t make it count—just the opposite. Every year, I set the stage with a table scene that would make Frida Kahlo swoon. No matter if I am preparing my own meal from scratch or 1. Rina Menardi lavender dinner plate: $68 Each of these unique handmade stoneware plates is individually signed. Made in Italy and measuring approximately 11¼ inches, they present a clean, simple and organic design. The pastel purple sets a sentimental foundation for the table. Available in various colors and sizes. 2. Brushed gold flatware: $59 Gold flatware is perfect for elegant occasions. It’s bold, regal and evocative of luxury, compassion and love. Made of anodized stainless steel by Fortessa, this set is commercial grade and dishwasher safe. A five-piece place setting includes a teaspoon, dessert spoon, salad fork, table fork and table knife.
ordering takeout, I create a tablescape to convey the idea that it’s going to be a very special night. And that includes cloth napkins, mood-setting candles, sparkly glassware and not-your-everyday dishware. My table-setting advice is to always be courting. Whether you’re celebrating a marriage, partnership or friendship, now is the time to drop the ordinary and set the scene for an extraordinary night. Turn it up a notch or two. A visit to the Glass House (3910 S. Highland Drive, 801-666-8968, GlassHouseSLC.com) could provide just the inspiration you need.
3. Nambé tilt wine chiller: $100 Have you been holding onto a rare vintage bottle of wine or Champagne? Don’t hold back—now’s the time to pop the cork. The mid-century modern design of this wine chiller is as timeless as it is practical because of its superb temperature retention. Nambé has been making award-winning alloy serveware and home décor items since the 1950s. Whatever your personal style is, this piece transcends all design proclivities—high or low, chic or antique, glamorous or understated. 4. Ruby goblets: $10 This stemmed glassware by Fortessa comes in vibrant ruby red and is versatile for water or wine.
5. Rose and gold bowl: $24 An enameled aluminum, gold-colored bowl is finished with a contrasting light pink interior. Measures 6 inches across by 2 3/4 inches high. 6. Gold Leaf Design Group fabric: $175 This marbleized pink-and-red 100-percent-cotton fabric is truly a statement piece. 7. Eyelet cloth napkins: $58 Valentine’s Day is not a paper-towel occasion. Elevate each setting with these crimson organic cotton napkins by Coyuchi. Set of four. The Little Things 8. xoxo jewelry dish $7.50 9. Iron red heart $8
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10. Banded bead candle holders: $176 per pair Pewter plated 7-inch holders from Reed & Barton are based on a classic early 18th-century form. Del Mar 100 percent dripless candles: $10.95 New Orientation, 1400 Foothill Drive, SLC 801-582-4462, NewOrientation.com
Crystals
Many decorate their homes with crystals and stones simply for the sake of appearance. However, Mother Earth’s gifts are believed to help the body and mind achieve healing and mindfulness, and the staff at Turiya’s will help you select the perfect pieces. 11. Heart amethyst quartz: Starting at $175 Amethyst is February’s birthstone, one said to protect and purifiy the mind of negative thoughts. This stone imparts a soothing energy and aids in communication. Raw amethyst $7 12. Selenite heart tea light candle holders: $11 each Selenite is a calming stone that instills deep peace, removes energy blocks and enhances the energy flow. 13. Rose quartz hearts: $5-$100 This hallmark stone for Valentine’s Day is referred to as the “stone of love.” It sends out vibrations of unconditional love, peace, warmth and compassion. Available in various sizes and shapes. Turiya’s, 1569 S. 1100 East, SLC 801-531-7823, Turiyas.com 14. Floral arrangement: Bud vases starting at $18 A gold vessel holds garden roses, rare anemones, spray roses, geranium leaves, camellia leaves, ming fern and quince branches. Inspired by vintage Chinese posters. Orchid Dynasty, 959 S. 900 East, SLC 801-583-4754, OrchidDynasty.com ❤ 16 Devour Utah • February 2018
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TORCH
Utah’s food & beverage experts share their favorite tunes for cooking up romance. By Darby Doyle Photo by Bobby Urie
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re you that cook with a glass of wine in one hand who’s swinging around the kitchen to the groove of Miles Davis’ Kind of Blue? We’ve asked chefs and food lovers to ponder the perfect soundtrack for cooking and sharing a dinner dialed in for romance, and here’s what they say should be on any lovers’ playlist.
Amber Billingsley: “Love Is the Drug” by Roxy Music “Just try listening to that song and not get hot and bothered,” says Amber Billingsley, pastry chef for Stanza and Current Fish & Oyster of this Roxy Music earworm. “It’s my No. 1 pick of sexy songs to cook to … and it’s impossible not to dance to it.” A close second in Billingsley’s book: “Do You Love Me?” by Nick Cave and The Bad Seeds. Sarah Day: “Leave Me Alone” by Kaytranda Don’t let the title of this track fool you, socialmedia influencer and big-time foodie Sara Day says. “This song brings us together in the kitchen. We love to dance and sip a nice cocktail while we’re cooking, and this song gets the creative juices going.” Amy Leininger: “The Rain Song” by Led Zeppelin “I find the melody so sensual and absolutely beautiful,” says Amy Leininger, owner of The Ruin in Sugar House. “My husband plays the guitar and has played most every Zeppelin song for me. We spent many a night during the beginning of our relationship listening to Led Zeppelin. … Twenty-two years later, every time I play their music, my heart smiles.”
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Evan Francois: “Lovesick” by Banks Harmons executive chef and Supper Club Salt Lake co-founder Evan Francois recommends Banks as talented artist in general, and this song in particular for its sexy and upbeat melody, saying, it’s “perfect for cooking a romantic meal for or with your significant other.” Chelsea Nelson: “48 Roses“ by Mariachi el Bronx “Every time that my hubby and I are making Mexican food,” RitualAndCraft.com cocktail blogger and Devour contributor Chelsea Nelson says, “we listen to Mariachi el Bronx,” the musical alter ego of the LA punk band The Bronx. “It’s the best vibe for tortilla soup, kitchen dancing and romance.” Chantelle Bourdeaux: “Location” by Khalid Chantelle Bourdeaux, regional sales director for A Priori Specialty Foods, recommends this ethereal and soulful vocalist, and I, too, am hooked. “Right now I’m still crushing on this artist,” Bourdeaux says. “Although young, new and just making his presence known on the music scene, his style feels familiar, fresh and always puts a smile on my face. I’m sure everyone around me is sick of it being on repeat, but I still can’t get enough of this sexy song!”
Rene Negron: “I Want You (She’s So Heavy)” by The Beatles Rene Negron, executive chef at the Cliff Dining Pub, equivocates that while it might not be a traditional love song, this tune sums up the “it’s complicated” relationship status. “To that special someone,” Negron says, this classic Beatles musical rollercoaster “will leave them pondering if you’re wanting them or that sake-miso-marinated cod. Something about the up and down progression of the song can just leave you in a tense romantic trance.” Sara Lund: “Bring It on Home to Me” by Sam Cooke Bodega and The Rest owner Sara Lund says that Sam Cooke songs are a go-to at her casa, and a nostalgic favorite. “He’s got a good mix of slow jams and songs that are upbeat,” she says. “Bring It On Home To Me” is her hands-down favorite when she’s cooking with her sweetheart. “It’s perfect for smooching or doing a little jig in the kitchen.”
Heather L. King: “U Got the Look” by Prince Of this classic hip-shaking single, Devour contributor Heather L. King says, “My husband and I grew up in the ’80s and have fond memories of Prince—including one of our first concerts together. Sometimes our forays in the kitchen are a little heated due to opposite cooking styles, but Prince’s ‘U Got the Look’ always gets us dancing and laughing.” Her favorite part: Karaoke-style belting out Sheena Easton’s line: “You shonuf do be cookin’ in my book.” Quoting Prince, King says “After all, this is the dream we all dream of, boy versus girl in the World Series of love!” Darby Doyle: “Get It While You Can” by The Infamous Stringdusters Like most people I talked with for this story, my kitchen streams a pretty eclectic mix throughout the day, especially since my husband and I have completely different tastes in music. One thing we agree on is nothing gets us going in the kitchen better than Bluegrass. For all of my family in Kentucky, cooking for someone shows how much you love them. So when I’m mixing up my hubby’s favorite cheese grits or a batch of biscuits, this song is a mustplay. It’s impossible not to shake along to and sing the line “I like your biscuits in my gravy, ma’am.” Biscuits and gravy: more than a hearty breakfast on the morning of Feb. 15—they’re a declaration of love. ❤
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Spread the
Lo Mein 22 Devour Utah • February 2018
Veggie House
S
alt Lake’s vegan dining scene has flourished this past year, and Veggie House is one of the most talked-about new vegan restaurants. But rest assured, you don’t have to be an herbivore to fall in love with this Asian eatery. The menu is diverse, and your options are many since you can mix and match tofu or faux meats. Choose from soybased chicken, beef or shrimp to go in your entrée. You can (and should) add two kinds of meats to your dish. I didn’t know what I was missing until I devoured lo mein ($8.99) with both chicken and beef! I thoroughly enjoyed the deep fried chicken in orange peel sauce ($9.99), too. It was sticky, sweet and savory— exactly what I wanted. The deep fried potstickers ($4.99 for 6 pieces, which you might or might not want to share) were also delectable. The fried rice with added tofu ($7.99) hit all the right notes. There’s plenty of light, healthy options like the tofu lettuce wrap ($6.99) as well as curries, stir frys, soups and salads. Veggie House is everything you’d want in a casual restaurant: The staff is friendly, the food is fresh and delicious, and it’s prepared quickly. The best part? It’s super inexpensive. Can’t decide between entrées? Get them both. To-go orders are a breeze, with food packed in tidy plastic containers that are perfect for leftovers (and you will have leftovers— they give you a lot of food!) If you’re in the mood to hang out, it’s comfy—the furnishings are brand new and the space is immaculate, with windows and lots of natural light. ❤
Affordable pot stickers, lo mein & lettuce wraps
With new furnishings, Veggie House makes for a comfy hangout.
Veggie House 52 E. 1700 South, SLC 801-282-8686 VeggieHouseUT.com —By Amanda Rock Photos by Niki Chan
Devour Utah • February 2018 23
Love Things We
Four Ravishing Reds
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
BY JIM SANTANGELO
Bubbles for Valentine’s are great, but a bubbly rosé is even better. The Gruet winery in New Mexico produces a sparkling wine from 100 percent pinot noir grapes. Showing garnet color in the glass, this sparkling bursts with red berries and races across the palate with cherry and raspberry, finishing with a zing of citrus. Gruet brut rosé sparkling wine, $18.99.
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Rick Longoria produces a delicious pinot noir called Lovely Rita after how the varietal thrives in the Santa Rita Hills. This wine displays lovely rose petal aromatics with strawberry, cranberry and hints of black tea on the palate pairing nicely with dishes from creamy pasta to seared salmon. Longoria Lovely Rita pinot noir 2015, $24.99.
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Leading winemaker Susan Balbo began a project with her husband and vineyard manager to produce a small high-quality wine from the Uco Valley in Mendoza, Argentina. The BenMarco Expresivo holds a palate of ripe blackberries in a clove-spiced pie. Look for filet mignon au poivre for this wine pairing. BenMarco Expresivo malbec 2014, $30.28.
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The best of both worlds collide at Italy’s Chiarli winery, where you can find a frizzante (semi-sparkling) and semi-sweet wine with a deep rich red color—a wine sure to drive passions into overdrive. The Chiarli Lambrusco grasparossa bursts with wild red berries and dried blackberry. Enjoy with chocolate-covered strawberries. Chiarli Lambrusco grasparossa, $13.12 ❤
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Jim Santangelo is owner/educator at the Wine Academy of Utah.
24 Devour Utah • February 2018
“ANYTIME A PERSON GOES INTO A DELICATESSEN AND ORDERS A PASTRAMI ON WHITE BREAD, SOMEWHERE A JEW DIES.” - MILTON BERLE
2005 E. 2700 SOUTH, SLC FELDMANSDELI.COM @ FELDMANSDELI OPEN TUES - SAT TO GO ORDERS: (801) 906-0369
20 1 7
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GRAPEFRUIT & HONEY PANNA COTTA
A SWEET Love can be fickle, so eat dessert now. BY AIMEE L. COOK PHOTOS BY CAROLYN HARGRAVES 26 Devour Utah • February 2018
romantic dinner is all well and good, but we always hope it leads to one thing: dessert. Multiple desserts, if you please! Let’s face it, a Valentine’s meal can leave you full, dull or stressed out. What’s more, not everyone has a dining companion on that special night. So why not take a different route on the holiday of love? Consider joining family or friends for a downtown dessert stroll, either to burn off calories after a lavish meal or in lieu of a meal itself. We’ve mapped out an easy road to dessert nirvana.
BOURBON BUTTERSCOTCH PUDDING
Grapefruit & Honey Panna Cotta Pastry chef Jessica Burge likes to create seasonal desserts, utilizing imagination and fresh ingredients for a familiar yet unique version of goodness. This scrumptious panna cotta combines grapefruit and honey topped with a fennel and brown butter crumb, wedge of fresh grapefruit, fennel frond and Maldon salt. Panna cotta is classified as a custard although it doesn’t contain eggs and isn’t tempered with hot milk. This Italian dessert is made with cream and milk, heated with a sweetener and then set with gelatin, resulting in a very light and creamy consistency. Adding honey relieves the grapefruit’s bitterness while the fennel seed in the brown butter crumb adds a hint of licorice flavor. The Copper Onion 111 E. 300 South, SLC 801-355-3282 TheCopperOnion.com
Bourbon Butterscotch Pudding Bourbon butterscotch pudding with salted whiskey caramel, crème fraîche and bourbon bacon caramel popcorn is a delectable combination of sweet, salty and crunchy with just a hint of sour. Created by chef Matt Crandall, the recipe begins by browning butter and then adding brown sugar and bourbon. The nuttiness from the browned butter and sugar imparts the butterscotch flavor. From there, milk and cream are added and thickened with egg yolks and corn starch. Served in a Mason jar and topped with whiskey caramel, crème fraîche and popcorn, this pudding makes you nostalgic while also hitting those adult taste buds with a boozy highlight. White Horse Spirits & Kitchen 325 S. Main, SLC 801-363-0137 WhiteHorseSLC.com Devour Utah • February 2018 27
Macaroons and More
VEGAN ICE CREAM
Walking into Fillings & Emulsions is a treat for all the senses. Pastry chef and owner Adalberto Diaz has display cases full of beautiful treats from Cuban meat pies to his signature macaroons. They typically sell more than 300 dozen in a month’s time. The rainbow of colors is beyond enticing, and it seems almost impossible to choose just one from among the 15 flavors that include vanilla salted caramel, raspberry chocolate, orange mandarin yuzu and passion pineapple lime. After two years of experimentation, Diaz perfected the recipe he originally learned over seven years ago from French pastry chefs in Chicago. He adjusts it depending on the weather. The confections are created at a different location from their other pastries in order to maintain their gluten-free standards. They make close to 2,000 a day to keep up with the demand. Stop in, grab a dozen before they disappear for the day. ❤ Fillings & Emulsions 1475 S. Main, SLC 385-229-4228 FillingsAndEmulsions.com
MACAROONS
16 Flavors to Suit Any Fancy The owners of Buds Sandwich Shop and BoltCutter—Roxy Planteur and Alex Jamison—were looking for a way to expand their vegan offerings—and ice cream seemed like the best fit. They were also drawn to the notion that ice cream is typically associated with a celebration and has a happy aura overall. In addition, they’re committed to educating the public about delicious alternatives to dairy, such cashew and coconut milk, which they use to make their vegan ice cream. It has a surprisingly similar creamy texture to the dairy ice cream. Try the classic mint chocolate chip or rocky road, or branch out to a flavor like their Tea & Biscuits, made from Earl Grey tea as the base with sugar cookie bits throughout. MonkeyWrench 53 E. Gallivan Ave., SLC
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It is the sweet, simple things of life which are the real ones after all �Laura Ingalls Wilder
Give the gift of locally made artisan chocolate to those you love this Valentine’s Day. Valentine’s Hours: Mon-Wed 11 am - 7 pm www.eatchocolateconspiracy.com 774 S. 300 W. Salt Lake City, UT 84101 Thurs-Sat 11 am - 7 pm
Devour Utah • February 2018 29
Devour This
A Mole to Remember Nothing says ‘love’ like this chocolate love paste By Ari LeVaux
Tita’s Turkey Mole Mole basics
P
eople had a way of responding emotionally to the cooking of Tita de la Garza, in Laura Esquivel’s food epic Like Water for Chocolate. Denied love and marriage by her mother, Tita made love in the kitchen, and to anyone who ate her food. It wasn’t Valentine’s Day when Tita prepared a mole (“mole-ay”) of walnut-fattened turkey, but it might as well have been. Had Cupid been running the show, that meal would have been for just her and Pedro, who loved Tita back just as much. Alas, he was married to her sister Rosaura, and the mole was to celebrate the baptism of the couple’s first child, Roberto. Tita made love to Pedro the only way she was allowed: from the inside, with food. Pedro, drawn to the kitchen by the smell of browned almonds, finds Tita on her knees, grinding almonds and sesame seeds with a stone. He spots her breast dangling in her shirt, and his gaze magically fills it with milk. This is extra-convenient, because Rosaura is dry, and the wet nurse was just hit by a stray bullet in a skirmish between the federales and the revolucionarios. The word mole comes from molli, an Aztec word that translates roughly into sauce/mixture/concoction. Today, mole is a celebratory dish that often headlines the feast. At the baptism of Roberto, Esquivel reports, Tita’s mole filled the guests with joy, and helped them “… forget the bullets flying in the village.” The idea of chocolate in a main course might seem odd, but original Aztec chocolate was served bitter and spicy. Mole is traditionally made in a molcajete, which is like a wider mortar and pestle, similar to what Tita used, words that also come from molli. There is something undeniably sexy about the shapes involved in the grinding of chile, nuts and spices in a molcajete, and how they grind together. So to help you get in the mood for Valentine’s Day, here is an extrapolated version of Tita’s recipe as channeled by Esquivel, tweaked for V-Day by upping the chocolate and with added walnuts to compensate for the fact that walnut-fattened turkey is hard to find these days. 30 Devour Utah • February 2018
Tita’s Turkey Mole ½ cup almonds ½ cup walnuts ½ cup sesame seeds (raw or toasted) ½ cup pumpkin seeds (raw or toasted) 8 dried red chile pods, of as many varieties as you can (pasilla, ancho, mulato, poblano, guajillo, Anaheim, New Mexico, etc.) 2 teaspoon coriander seeds
2 anise pods 2 teaspoons black peppercorns 4 inches cinnamon stick 4 tablespoons chocolate powder, or substitute nibs 5 cloves garlic, chopped An onion, Tita’s favorite ingredient, chopped A tortilla or old piece of bread Olive oil, butter
Grind spices together
Method: Cook a turkey, or some turkey parts, any way you wish. If using a frozen turkey, put it in the oven at 350 and turn when the top becomes brown. Bake until it’s soft enough to pull the bones out once it cools—the texture of a rotisserie chicken. This can be achieved through boiling or other ways, but I like the flavor of crisp skin. Set the meat aside, and put the bones, skin, cartilage and whatnot in a pot of water, along with some whole carrots, lengths of celery stalk, and an onion, cut in half. Simmer for as much time as you have. Clean the dried chiles, removing the stems, seeds and membranes. Tita roasts and uses the chile seeds, and you can follow her if you dare. (Fair warning: The story ends with Tita literally burning away in a flame of passion.) In a heavy pan on low/medium heat, add the almonds and pecans, and let these brown slowly. So slowly that you can almost afford to forget about them while you attend to a second pan, on medium heat, to which you add the coriander, black pepper, anise, cinnamon and chile seeds. Stir these often until they start to brown and the coriander seeds begin to pop. Remove the spices from the pan and add the cleaned chile, ripped into pieces about an inch long or smaller. Turn the pan down and lightly roast the chile. When the nuts begin to brown, add the sesame seeds and pumpkin seeds. When they brown, turn off the heat and let them cool. Now, gather the nuts, spices, seeds and chile into a nice stone mortar and pestle, take a picture, and then put it all in a food processor with the chocolate. Let it rip, and when the mole gets too thick, add turkey stock until it’s the consistency of very creamy peanut butter. Add oil and butter to one of the pans, on medium heat, and sauté the garlic and onion, along with a pound of turkey and a crumbled roll or tortilla. Add broth as necessary to prevent burning. When the onion is translucent, add a half cup of mole and turkey stock, stirring it together as best you can, and cover so the mole melts. Add more mole and stock if necessary. Season with salt. So, too, will your own guests melt when they eat this mole—truly the most love you could give someone with your pants on. ❤
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Devour Utah • February 2018 31
Lucky Dog Celebrate Chinese New Year with these auspicious foods.
By Heather L. King
A
t the heart of the weeks-long Chinese New Year holiday is food shared with family—much of it surrounding the New Year’s Eve feast or reunion dinner and the closing Lantern Festival. A variety of lucky foods are traditionally eaten for their symbolic meaning determined by either their Chinese pronunciation or physical appearance—with individual dishes representing specific aspects of good fortune to come in the new year. So, with the Year of the Dog beginning on Feb. 16, we rounded up essential Lunar New Year dishes you can enjoy in Utah. Don’t forget to wish your friends “Gung hei fat choi!” (Cantonese for “Congratulations and be prosperous.”).
Dumplings = ingots of prosperity
Dumplings are customarily eaten on Chinese New Year’s Eve to imply a wish for wealth and prosperity due to their pleated boat shape— representing a Chinese silver ingot. Some suggest that the more dumplings you eat, the more money you’ll make in the new year. Dumplings are filled with minced pork, diced shrimp or other protein and vegetables including cabbage or radish and are often served either steamed or fried but also baked and boiled. You’ll find a wide variety of dumpling choices at Dim Sum House, including the steamed crystal prawn har gow dumplings with plump shrimp enveloped in a translucent wrapper, or deep-fried shrimp dumplings for a crispy crunch. 1158 S. State, SLC 801-359-3838 MyDimSumHouse.com 32 Devour Utah • February 2018
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Noodles = happiness and longevity
Their length representing the eater’s life, noodles symbolize a wish for happiness and longevity. Ideally, one should not cut or bite the noodles as they are eaten. Long noodles are served either fried on a plate or boiled with broth in a bowl. Glancing at the Mom’s Kitchen menu turns up a long list of noodles. Try the Taiwanese-style noodles with ground pork featuring toothsome housemade noodles submerged in meaty broth studded with cabbage for color and texture. For a spicy kick, order the bean-thread noodles with pork with layers of chiles and spices that you’ll remember into the new year. 2233 S. State, SLC 801-468-0092 MomsKitchenSaltLakeCity.com
Spring rolls = gold bars of wealth
Spring rolls get their name because they are typically eaten during Spring Festival (Chinese New Year). Because fried spring rolls look like gold bars, they bring a wish for wealth and prosperity. Filled with vegetables and meat, the rolls are encased in thin dough wrappers and fried to a crispy, golden brown. In America, we commonly refer to them as egg rolls and they’re ubiquitous on virtually every Chinese restaurant menu. Red Corner China Diner offers both Americanized and authentic Chinese options, including cabbage-filled vegetarian spring rolls and crunchy pork or chicken egg rolls. 46 W. 7200 South, Midvale 801-601-8331, RedCornerUtah.com
34 Devour Utah • February 2018
801.355.2294 | 216 East 500 South, SLC
Devour Utah • February 2018 35
Catfish = surplus
In Chinese, the word fish sounds like “surplus” so eating fish on New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day brings an increase in prosperity. Both carp and catfish are particularly prized for their auspicious homophonics—bringing good luck, fortune and abundance. Custom suggests that whole fish should be the last dish eaten with some left over (a surplus) and that the head should face elders or distinguished guests, who should also eat first as a sign of respect. Steamed fish is most popular, as well as braised preparations and boiled fish served in a spicy broth. Stop in at Café Anh Hong for their Cantonese steamed fish dressed with scallions and ginger. It’s the perfect way to end a meal, as the ginger adds flavor and settles the stomach. 1465 S. State, No. 12, SLC 801-486-1912 CafeAnhHongUT.com
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Sweet rice balls = family reunion
Sweet rice balls are traditionally enjoyed on the 15th day of the new year known as the Lantern Festival—the end of the Spring Festival celebration. The pronunciation and round shape of the rice balls are associated with reunion and togetherness and signify unity within the family. The hallmark dessert of Chinese New Year, these can be considered the sugary equivalent of a dumpling and are often filled with black sesame, red bean paste or ground peanuts that are boiled and served in water or a sweetened syrup. Head to Boba World to find sticky rice balls in sweet wine as the only dessert on the menu. 512 W. 750 South, Woods Cross 801-298-3626, BobaWorld.blogspot.com ❤
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Devour Utah • February 2018 37
e c i Sp up
e f i L
Your
M
any of us have spice collections residing in our cupboards and pantries. Some jars and tins might be decades old; some have moved across country, from one home to the next. It’s likely time to refresh the spices and herbs in your life and breathe easier knowing your spice collection is ready for the year’s best dishes. Quick history: The spice trade got its start in the Mediterranean region around 300 BC. Demand for spices led to new trade routes over land and sea. As the Roman Empire began to grow, so did its dominance in the spice trade. Romans used spices to preserve food and to enhance cooking, perfumes, medicines and cosmetics. Rarities such as pepper were worth their weight in gold. Spices are the dried seeds, roots, bark, buds and
38 Devour Utah • February 2018
berries of plants that can be ground (think cinnamon, pepper and nutmeg). Where spices are dried, herbs— the green, leafy part of the plant—taste best when fresh. Some herbs also can be dried, such as the leaves of celery, oregano and basil. Freshness is key. If fresh herbs aren’t available, you can still cook with dried versions if you use a third of the amount called for in the recipe. It’s hard to overdo freshly grown herbs, but it’s so easy to overdo dried herbs. The optimal way to use fresh herbs is to pick them from the garden immediately prior to cooking and add them toward the end of the cooking process. For uncooked foods, adding fresh herbs earlier will allow the flavors to blend.
“But in truth, should I meet with gold or spices in great quantity, I shall remain till I collect as much as possible, and for this purpose I am proceeding solely in quest of them.” —Christopher Columbus
Love your spices, and they will love you back. By Rebecca Ory Hernandez Photos by Brooke Hastings
Devour Utah • February 2018 39
When you buy herbs and spices, label and date the bottom of each jar so you’ll know to toss it after six months.
The Spice Purge
Even when spices and herbs are stored properly, they are prone to go stale quickly. In fact, my mom (a “home ec” queen back in the day) taught me long ago to keep ground and blended herbs and spices no longer than six months. Yes, you read that correctly. I know, I know! You paid handsomely for that rare blend on a trip five years ago. I know you’ve had good intentions, but you’re never going to use it, and if you do, it will not taste fresh and could ruin an entire dish. So toss, toss, toss! Compost it, throw it in your campfire (unless it’s pepper) or just bury it. Your plants will thank you. Next, buy smaller quantities—they will last longer than you think, and
you’ll have less waste when you have to dispose of them. Local grocery stores and Mexican, Asian and local specialty markets sell small packets and jars of freshly ground herbs and spices. Not only are they less expensive, the quality is better than what you’ll get in bulk containers from big-box stores. Since exposure to air and light greatly effects freshness, it’s best to store herbs and spices in cool, dark places. Glass containers are preferred over plastic (plastic can leach into the volatile oils of herbs and spices). Think about the spices you use the most often in cooking—pepper, garlic powder, basil, oregano, chili and seasonal blends—and store those in convenient larger containers along with your salt.
While technically not a spice, salt is a mineral that greatly enhances your food. Invest in good-quality salts— kosher, pink Himalayan or a local sea salt such as Real Salt—and use sparingly when cooking. Freshly cracked black pepper is vastly superior to the type found in salt & pepper shakers at the market. Grinding your own pepper will transform your dishes, especially salads, potatoes and dressings. Consider investing in an electric coffee grinder or specialty herb/spice grinder to pulverize dried herbs. Spoons ’N Spice (2274 S. 1300 East, SLC, 801-2631898; 788 E. 9400 South, Sandy, 801-5531988, SpoonsNSpice.com) sells all sorts of grinders but also keep an eye out for a low-cost coffee grinder at a garage Continued on p. 42
40 Devour Utah • February 2018
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Devour Utah • February 2018 41
Windowsill pots of basil, oregano and thyme need at least five to six hours of sunlight to be happy.
Continued from p. 40
sale or thrift store. To clean away any prior residue, pour in some dry rice and grind for a minute. Empty, wipe clean, and voila! Move on to the next herb or spice. When you buy herbs and spices, label and date the bottom of each jar so you’ll know to toss it after six months.
Grow your own
Growing a year-round supply of herbs and spices at altitude can be tricky, but those little plastic herb pots on the windowsill make it easy to pinch fresh leaves and add to pastas, soups and 42 Devour Utah • February 2018
salads all winter long. Many chefs grow their own windowsill herbs. You’ll need at least five to six hours of sunlight to keep basil, oregano and thyme happy. Local source Mountain Valley Seed Co. (175 W. 2700 South, SLC, 801-486-0480, TrueLeafMarket.com) sells delicious organic herb varieties that sprout within days.
Stack or stick?
To store your spices and herbs, check out the myriad beautiful spice jars at the gourmet stores. My favorites are the easily stackable Ball Dry herb jars
with shaker tops. Another favorite is the magnetic spice tins with clear tops. Place them on the side of your fridge or hang them upside down on a metal plate that’s attached to the bottom of a metal-lined shelf in your cupboards or pantry. Hopefully, I’ve inspired you to start refreshing your herbs and spices. Yes, variety is the spice of life, but buy your seasonings in small quantities when you can—and stop in at the following local shops and suppliers that can help you along. ❤
Spice Traders
Local resources for spice, herbs and supplies Spoons ’N Spice—Offering every kind of container, mortar and pestle, and grinder you can imagine. 2274 S. 1300 East. Ste. G9, SLC 801-263-1898 788 E. 9400 South, Sandy 801-553-1988 SpoonsNSpice.com
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Kitchen Kneads—Great for buying fresh spices in quantity. They also sell storage jars. 3030 Grant Ave., Ogden 801-399-3221 KitchenKneads.com Penzeys Spices—A national retailer with a store in Draper, they carry a large variety and have great customer service. 280 E. 12300 South, Draper 801-666-7557 Penzeys.com Good Earth—Has a nice rotation of a large variety of organic spice and herb products. Buy in small bags and transfer to your labeled containers at home. Multiple locations GoodEarthNaturalFoods.com Harmons—Sells local spices and commercial blends as well as containers to store them. Multple locations HarmonsGrocery.com
1324 S 1100 E, SLC 84105 TeaZaanti.com Mon-Sat: 10-6 & Sun: 11-3
Mountain Valley Seed Co. Purchase at Harmons or IFA TrueLeafMarket.com/SeedCompany Liberty Heights Fresh 1290 S. 1100 East, SLC 801-583-7374 LibertyHeightsFresh.com Sandhill Farms 2111 N. 5500 East, Eden 801-866-6320 SandhillFarms.org Lavender Hill Farm—For organically grown lavender, spices and blends of tea. Retail outlets include Rainbow Gardens, Ogden Nature Center and Simply Eden LavenderHillUtah.com Farmer’s Daughter Herbs—Fresh, organic herbs available at various grocery stores. 2854 S. Redwood Road, West Valley City 801-973-7875 FarmersDaughterHerbs.com Lee’s Market—Carries my very favorite commercial Cajun blend, Slap Ya Mama. It’s a red pepper blend with salt, white, black peppers and garlic powder in a nice ratio. It tastes great on everything and isn’t too hot. It’s authentic Cajun without so much salt. Get it and spice up your life! 2645 N. Washington Blvd., North Ogden 801-782-7800 LeesMarketplace.com/Ogden
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t I e t a l P The Bayou’s Mark & Kileen Alston
Finished dish, p. 47 Devour Utah • February 2018 45
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T
he Bayou’s Mark Alston has spent most of his life (“since elementary school”) in landlocked Salt Lake City—about as far away in miles and influence from Louisiana-style cuisine as you can get. That didn’t stop him and his wife, Kileen, from launching a bar in 2002 that now features 450 different bottled beers and 25 beers on tap, all designed to complement a flavorsome menu of Cajon-Creole dishes— one of the few places in the Salt Lake Valley to serve such fare. While The Bayou’s classic jambalaya, gumbo and étouffée deliver on the promise of zest and spice, it’s mashups like the Cajun Burrito ($12.99) that are truly to die for. They start with a tasty jambalaya—long-grain rice made savory with cubes of sausage and Cure 81 ham, made aromatic with caramelized onion, celery and green peppers (the “holy trinity” of Cajun cooking) and made spicy with tomatoes, broth and seasonings. It’s rolled up in a flour tortilla, smothered with a buttery crawfish étouffée and finally topped with sliced avocado. Two can easily share this behemoth entrée, made even more satisfying with a frosty glass of Bohemian Oktoberfest alongside. ❤
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t I e t a Pl Devour Utah • February 2018 47
Spirit Guide
in the
New Orleans classic cocktails let the good times roll. Words and photos by Darby Doyle
ew Orleans is legendary as much for a sophisticated cocktail culture as it is famous for Mardi Gras revelry. There are a slew of classic cocktails birthed in the Crescent City that reflect the more elegant and gracious aspects of its rich bartending history. I recently chatted with Robert Peyton, who is a native of New Orleans and a Louisiana-based food writer focusing on that subject. He deferred that in a city of phenomenal bartenders and booze experts, it’s tough to limit the list, but that of the dozens of cocktails originating in New Orleans, four stand out as must-try classics: the Sazerac, Ramos Gin Fizz, Café Brûlot and Vieux Carré. “Along with the Absinthe Frappe,” Peyton says, “these drinks really tell the story of New Orleans” through refined cocktails with plenty of romance and style, but no less sass in the glass.
48 Devour Utah • February 2018
Sazerac The Louisiana Legislature made this drink the official cocktail of New Orleans with good reason. One of the earliest origin stories of the Sazerac has its roots in the late 1830s, when Antoine Amedie Peychaud, a New Orleans apothecary, made brandy toddies using his proprietary medicinal Peychaud’s bitters. It’s also associated with a now-extinct brandy called Sazerac-de-Forge et Fils. Some early recipes call for cognac, others for bourbon, but NOLA embraced rye whiskey as the Sazerac spirit of choice by the turn of the 20th century.
Recipe
Adapted from Imbibe! by David Wondrich
1 ½ ounce rye whiskey ½ ounce cognac 1 sugar cube 3 dashes Peychaud’s bitters ½ teaspoon absinthe Fill a small old fashioned or coupe glass with crushed ice to chill for serving. To a separate mixing glass add sugar cube and bitters. Muddle with the back of a bar spoon to dissolve the sugar into the bitters. Add a generous handful of ice, the cognac and whiskey. Stir until well chilled. Toss out the ice from the serving glass, add absinthe to the glass and swirl to coat the interior. Strain the drink into the serving glass and finish with lemon zest squeezed skin side down over the drink to express oil. Rub the zest on the rim of the glass, and drop it into the drink. Sometimes this drink is served with a big ice cube.
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Spirit Guide
in the
Ramos Gin Fizz Egg and/or cream-based “fizz” cocktails are famous restoratives and hangover cures. In 1880s New Orleans, Henry C. Ramos’ bar was so popular for the drink that they had a whole crew of cruelly underpaid young barbacks whose only job was to shake each Ramos Gin Fizz assembly-line-style for 12 full minutes.
Recipe
Adapted from Imbibe.com
1 ½ ounce London dry gin 1 tablespoon 1:1 simple syrup ½ ounce fresh lemon juice ½ ounce fresh lime juice 1 fresh egg white (may sub with pasteurized egg white) 1 ounce heavy cream 3 drops orange flower water 1 ounce club soda, chilled To a shaker without ice, add all ingredients except for the club soda; dry shake vigorously to combine. Add a generous handful of ice to the shaker and continue to shake well for at least a couple of minutes. The longer, the better (you might want to wear thin grippy gloves to prevent frost burn to your fingers). Double-strain through fine mesh into a tall serving glass, top with club soda and very gently stir with a long-handled bar spoon to combine.
50 Devour Utah • February 2018
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Spirit Guide
in the
Café Brûlot This super boozy coffee-based drink is all about delicious spectacle. It was invented in the 1890s at the historic restaurant Antoine’s and dubbed Café Brûlot Diabolique, or “devilishly burned coffee.” Their method: Servers carve around the entire circumference of an orange to make one long continuous peel, skewer the orange with the peel dangling, and douse the fruit in brandy and orange liqueur. Then, the whole thing is set on fire, and servers continuously ladle the flaming booze combination over the skewered orange, which is held high in the air above a wide bowl of steaming hot coffee and spices.
Recipe
Adaptation of Arnaud’s recipe from saveur.com
½ cup orange curaçao ¼ cup brandy 10 whole cloves 3 cinnamon sticks 1 orange, quartered Peel of a lemon 3 cups strong black coffee 3-5 tablespoons sugar To a heavy 4-quart saucepan add orange curaçao, brandy, cloves, cinnamon sticks, orange and lemon peel. Bring to just barely a simmer over medium-high heat. Using a match or lighter, carefully ignite contents and gently swirl pan until flames die out. Add coffee and sugar; keep stirring over medium-low heat until sugar is dissolved. Strain coffee into small glass mugs or demitasse cups. Garnish with orange zest.
52 Devour Utah • February 2018
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Devour Utah • February 2018 53
Spirit Guide
in the
Vieux Carré Pronounced “VYOO ka-RAY,” this drink’s name translates from the French as “old square,” a nod to its French Quarter origin at the historic Hotel Monteleone on Royal Street. In 1938, the hotel’s head bartender, Walter Bergeron, created this riff on a Manhattan with some seriously New Orleans flair. Like a Sazerac, the cocktail adds Peychaud’s bitters and cognac to the rye spirit base, but also requires a touch of the distinctive French herbal liqueur bénédictine.
Recipe
Adapted from the Hotel Monteleone recipe at GardenAndGun.com
¾ ounce rye whiskey ¾ ounce cognac (such as Pierre Ferrand 1840) ¾ ounce sweet vermouth 2 dashes Peychaud’s bitters 2 dashes Angostura bitters ½ ounce bénédictine liqueur Build directly in a rocks glass by adding all ingredients and stirring briefly with ice. Garnish with a lemon twist. (You’ll alternatively see this drink served “up” like a Manhattan: stir all ingredients well with ice in a mixing glass, strain into a chilled coupe). ❤
54 Devour Utah • February 2018
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Devour Utah • February 2018 55
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he one perspective everyone can agree on is our culture’s quintessential love of food. At the Utah Restaurant Association we are no different! We love food and we especially love all aspects of Utah’s dynamic restaurant industry and food community. Likewise, we know the restaurant industry and food community adore their guests and customers. Restaurants aim to accommodate guests on every level of service and give them exactly what they want and need. Whether that’s a quick stop at a drive-thru in the midst of a busy day, a fast-casual, casual dine or a fabulous fine dine experience for that special occasion … (did someone say Valentine’s Day?) the restaurant industry is always listening and innovating to meet guests needs. And now that even includes bringing the amazing restaurant food
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Monday, May 7th at The Grand America
—Christopher Walken the fresh new faces and emerging restaurateurs growing the industry, pushing the envelop and evolving the industry while solidifying Utah as a dining destination. We seek to educate as well as honor our community through television series, TeenChef Pro which offers one Utah ProStart student a four year scholarship along with Taste Utah — highlighting many of the unique offerings within our state. Taste Utah is also an inventive tool designed to help restaurants share their stories as well as aiding food enthusiasts across
Utah in making dining their destination by exploring our interactive dining guide at www.TasteUT.com. Guests and restaurateurs are invited to join the community of food lovers and enthusiasts by sharing their unique restaurant food experiences with one another by using #tasteutah on instagram, facebook and twitter along with getting specific when dining in a city, i.e.: #tasteSLC, #tastePC, #tasteOGDEN, etc. We encourage you to be an active part of our community and share your love of food with us all year long! •
Ticket sales coming soon at UtahRestaurantAssociation.org and DevourUtah.com For Sponsorship opportunities contact: Katy Sine katy@UtahRestaurantAssociation.org Jami Larson jami@UtahRestaurantAssociation.org
Devour Utah • February 2018 57
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
MentorChef Logen Crew
Isabela Grinkaiw
The Utah Restaurant Association Brings Members Huge Savings Through A Partnership with Workers Compensation Fund Insurance
THE PROGRAM
The Utah Restaurant Association has endorsed WCF Insurance(WCF) as the carrier for URA members’ workers’ compensation coverage. By combining benefits designed to meet URA members’ needs with traditional services, the program offers the most comprehensive workers’ compensation package available.
PREMIUM DISCOUNT
Congratulations to Isabela Grinkaiw TeenChef Pro Champion
And winner of a 4 year scholarship to Johnson & Wales University! Isabela Grinkaiw, a senior in the ProStart program at Clearfield High School won under the mentorship of MentorChef Logen Crew who was competing in his third season and second finale. Congratulations Isabela and chef Logen! Thank you for an incredible season to our cast, crew and sponsors. TeenChef Pro is available all year on www.ORATV.com
Eligible and enrolled URA members qualify for a 5% discount on their workers’ compensation Premiums.
PERSONALIZED SERVICE
Members have account service teams that work with the company to develop and implement a custom-tailored service plan that meets your needs.
LOSS PREVENTION
Participating URA members are required to comply with program provisions, including attendance at two industry-specific safety classes or seminars annually. To help meet this requirement, WCF’s Safety Department offers FREE seminars exclusively for members in addition to classes already offered throughout the year.
MEMEBER BENEFIT
This program is only available through membership with the Utah Restaurant Association. The URA values it’s members and strives to provide such incentives and programs through innovative and strategic partnerships as the Workers’ Compensation Fund. www.UtahRestaurantAssociation.org info@UtahRestaurantAssociation.org O: 801.274.7309
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Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
YOUNG GUNS, SEASONED PROS
N
ew restaurateurs are bursting all over the industry in Utah with fresh creative restaurants. While the title of owner, operator or the concept might be new — these chefs have been contributing to the Utah restaurant industry as working professionals and crafting many a Utah restaurant meal for years.
Who: Chef Katie Weinner — Red Moose After Dark Where: 1693 S 900 E, SLC, UT (Red Moose Coffee Company) When: Friday — Sunday OR sometimes Friday/Saturday (keep your eyes on our @redmooseafterdark IG) Why: “The Red Moose After Dark was created so anyone could come to dinner and try my food. It’s an affordable way to taste new dishes that are unique. The concept is similar to the style of food trucks, disposal plates, decent portions and big flavors. Everything is under $15, no reservations, new menu items every week.” What: “With an ever evolving menu of specials, it’s hard to choose just one item. We have menu staples like our maple-walnut kale salad with blood-orange & jalapeño olive oil powder. You may see Reindeer Kielbasa with sweet potato pasta and sweet and sour cabbage, miso-Korean chili vegan ramen or our mango-passion fruit jello cake with local Lollipuff coconut cotton candy. Plus we love our “talking” pork rinds!”
Who: Chef Justin Soelberg, Nomad Eatery Where: 2110 W North Temple When: M-F: lunch 11:30a - 3p dinner 5p - 9p Sat: dinner 5p - 9p Sunday: Closed Why: “I opened Nomad Eatery because it’s a place I would want to eat. I’ve worked in fine dining most of my 20 year career and yet I always see myself eating at fast casual places on my days off. I love the simpler food and the quick pace of an order at the counter spot. I wanted Nomad to stay true to those qualities but elevate the food and the service with all my fine dining restaurant experience.” What: “Crispy Tilapia Sandwich with Lacinato Kale/Red Cabbage Slaw, Tarragon and Old Bay Tartar Sauce and Celery Pickles.” “This sandwich just screams Nomad. Few ingredients, lots of flavor, has pickles, is bold, crunchy and contains Duke’s mayonnaise, a staple in the Nomad kitchen. Only four components comprise this sandwich but every one is crucial and has a lot of thought behind them. Like the sour beer we use to make the crisp tempura-like batter for the tilapia; or the 14 ingredients that go into the tartar sauce and the 21 days it takes for the celery pickles to finish, it’s all done with attention to each detail. Every dish at Nomad Eatery is very approachable. This fish sandwich is just an elevated dish we’ve all had at some point in our lives but done with a lot of love.“ •
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Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
Is Delivery Dining Your Next Destination? Taste Utah is rebooting and preparing for the season three by moving to
Utah’s CW30 on Saturday morning at 11:00 AM. Behind every good food story is a great people story and Utah’s favorite local food television program will be back on
Saturday, January 27, 2017.
Taste Utah is a 13 episode television series showcasing Utah’s diverse and thriving restaurant industry and is complemented by TasteUT.com — a first of its kind local interactive dining guide featuring over 80 videos and thousands of delicious Utah restaurant food photos. Join host’s Jami and Katy as they take you on an epic food road trip where dining is the destination. They highlight authentically Utah restaurant stories along with Utah’s food community and the people that make eating in Utah so special. From the hands of Utah’s hard-working farmers, ranchers, and purveyors through the ingenuity of Utah’s top chef’s, landmark restaurants, and best-kept secrets, Katy and Jami share food adventures that will inspire you to conquer Utah’s culinary landscape one bite at a time.
You can participate in Utah’s food culture every Saturday morning at 11:00 AM on Utah’s CW30 or by hash tagging
#TasteUtah on all your Utah restaurant food photos!
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F
rom a late night at the office, a working lunch or from the comfort of your own home, Utahans across the state are discovering that sometimes eating out means getting it to go — more and more of you are falling in love with fooddelivery from your favorite restaurants. While not all delivery services are created equal and with plenty of zip codes to expand into, Utah diners have a few solid options to choose from. Especially because the art of take-out is becoming uber convenient - (no pun intended) thanks in part to the rise of food delivery services such as GrubHub, UberEats & DoorDash. Studies show that online food apps are on the rise, particularly with the millennial and Gen Y populations. We’ve taken the time to test and taste a few of Utah’s most accessible delivery services from and around the Wasatch Front. Here is the insider information we collected on navigating the latest dine-out-bydelivery options available now. • UberEATS:
Minimum order: None Set Delivery Price: Yes - $6 in Salt Lake Area Delivery Time: Fastest delivery time from our experience Restaurant Options: The selection is growing - still not as varied as GrubHub Tips: Tip is not prompted but can be offered after delivery
DoorDash:
Minimum order: Varies from restaurant to restaurant Set Delivery Price: None - price varies depending on the restaurant and delivery Delivery Time: Delivery time appears as soon as restaurant is selected - generally faster than GrubHub Restaurant Options: Only available in the Salt Lake Area Tips: Option to tip driver when placing order
GrubHub:
Minimum order: Varies from restaurant to restaurant Set Delivery Price: None - price varies depending on restaurant and delivery Delivery Time: Delivery time is offered as soon as restaurant is selected - generally the slowest of the three options Restaurant Options: Largest selection of restaurants within and outside the Salt Lake Area Tips: Tipping is prompted before delivery arrives
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
e v o L For The
of food
L
ove eating out but need a new spot? Maybe you’re craving a dose of “foodspiration”? From weekend brunch to weekday eats, TasteUT.com is our virtual and interactive dining guide where you can experience a restaurant, meet chefs, owners, watch signature dishes being prepared and discover the unique intention behind each restaurant —all by viewing crave-worthy videos. TasteUT.com is mobile phone friendly and hosts over 80 Utah restaurants and vendors with additional locations added during season 3 of Taste Utah which airs on the CW30 Saturday mornings through April 2018. Celebrate your inner food enthusiast by scrolling through the
plethora of restaurant food photos by foodies just like you from across the state on TasteUT.com or on instagram by exploring or following the #TasteUtah hashtag. And use #TasteUtah on instagram for all your restaurant food photos! Be a dynamic part of Utah’s food community with your dining prowess and add your food adventure to our online gallery — making mouths water with endless Utah restaurant options. And it gets better because since Taste Utah is all about the food love… by using hashtag #TasteUtah through engagement on instagram you will be entered to win dining destination restaurant giveaways providing you incredible opportunities to keep tasting Utah! •
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Soap Stars
LAST BITE
Ways to warm the cockles of any cook’s heart. By Jen Hill
“Why would I want to do dishes?” That’s the question Gary (Vince Vaughn) asks his soon-to-be ex, Brooke (Jennifer Aniston), after a dinner party in the 2006 movie The Break-Up. What ensued was a relationship-breaking argument in which Brooke was both frustrated and fed up with Gary’s lack of kitchen help. No matter who the kitchen belongs to, the cleanup after any extraordinary meal can easily be overlooked. Offering to help with dishes after a wonderful repast shows the cook that you love and appreciate his or her work. Every cook might have a list of cleaning preferences and particulars, with rules about wasting water or washing dishes in a dirty sink. The most particular of cooks often will, out of frustration, prefer to clean up themselves. But at least offer to help, and if it is accepted, here are some pointers that will have you humming “Volare” like Dean Martin wearing rubber gloves: • Avoid stacking your plates in the sink. Pre-scrub your basin, use appropriate scrubbing brushes and abrasives to make sure the sides and around the drain are clean. • After removing debris from dishes, fill the sink with warm sudsy water and allow dishes to soak. Use cold water to un-stick dairy and starch-based foods such as baked-on cheese, potatoes or rice.
• Baking soda comes to the rescue with greasy pots and pans. Sprinkle it on before scrubbing as a natural and inexpensive alternative to store-bought de-greasers. • Choose the cloth, sponge or scrub brush best suited for the job. Untreated steel wool is ideal for cleaning stainless steel pans or a cast-iron skillet. For a seasoned cast-iron pan, avoid sudsy dishwashing soaps because of iron’s porous properties. Elbow grease along with table salt and steel wool work great. After drying, re-season with vegetable oil on a paper towel to prevent oxidation and rust. • When in doubt, wash by hand. While the modern-day dishwasher is valued, it’s still too rough for many of our culinary tools and dishes. Protect your kitchen investments, please, and avoid placing the following items in the dishwasher: — Kitchen knives — Stem glassware and crystal — Porcelain dishes/fine china, gold-colored or rimmed flatware and dishes — Cast-iron anything — Non-stick pans and bakeware • Whip out a soft rag to add a sparkle to faucets and tiles, wipe down the splashguard and range roof. Take the time to deep clean each kitchen burner and drip pans. Remove the used tablecloth, napkins and placemats, wipe the table and chairs for crumbs and drips, and give the floor a sweep. All rags, dishcloths, or sponges should be left out to air dry or thrown into the washing machine. Whether it’s Valentine’s or any other-tine’s, show your love to the cook and ensure there are no next-day dirty dishes under your watch. ❤
54 w. 1700 s. M-F 7:30am-3pm Sat/Sun 7:30am-4pm 62 Devour Utah • February 2018
All the places you LOVE at the price you love.
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