vol. 4 no. 3 • march 2018 • appetizers
FREE COPY
THE APPETIZER ISSUE Whiskey in the Jar p. 46 Mochi Morsels p. 58
THE PERILS OF AVOCADO TOAST 32
Salt Lake’s First Cat Café p.29
Utah Restaurant Association p. 52 Devour Utah • March 2018 1
2 Devour Utah • March 2018
A family of restaurants with
SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE!
Chabaar Beyond Thai
Tea Rose Diner
87 w 7200 s Midvale, UT 801-566-5100
65 E 5th ave Murray, UT 801-685-6111
Siam Noodle Bar
Fav Bistro
5171 Cottonwood street Murray, UT
1984 E. Murray Holladay Rd, UT 801-676-9300
Bottom floor in bldg. 1 in IMC Hospital
801-262-1888
Huge Menus • Gluten Free & Vegan Options ANNYSTAKEONTHAI.COM
Devour Utah • March 2018 3
CONTENTS
10
14
Plucky Tapas
The Devour Dozen
Small dishes, big tastes
Appys we love
BY THE DEVOUR STAFF
BY HEATHER L. KING
26
Pub Grub
36 44
Cretan Dakos
A taste of Eire BY DARBY DOYLE
Crunch on this! BY ELENI SALTAS
Lovely Pair Sips & Bites
BY JIM SANTANGELO
4 Devour Utah • March 2018
30
38 46
The Spread
Tinker’s Cat Café BY AMANDA ROCK
Dinner’s Here Wasatch Fresh
BY AIMEE L. COOK
Sláinte!
Paddy’s Day pours BY DARBY DOYLE
32
40 58
Avo-Toast
From dips to tips BY ARI LEVAUX
Bitter Sweet
Greens of spring BY MERRY LYCETT HARRISON
Iko’s Mochi
Japanese desserts BY REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ
Devour Utah • March 2018 5
DEVOUR Contributors STAFF Publisher JOHN SALTAS EDITORIAL Editor Copy Editor Proofreader Contributors
JERRE WROBLE SARAH ARNOFF LANCE GUDMUNDSEN AIMEE L. COOK, DARBY DOYLE, MERRY LYCETT HARRISON, JEN HILL, HEATHER L. KING, ARI LEVAUX, REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ, AMANDA ROCK, ELENI SALTAS, JIM SANTANGELO
Photographers
CAROLINE HARGRAVES, JOSH SCHEUERMAN, JOHN TAYLOR
With a lifelong passion for health and fitness, Eleni Saltas earned a bachelor’s degree in Exercise & Sports Science from the University of Utah. Eleni grew up in Salt Lake City’s vibrant Greek community where she learned pan-Hellenic dancing, cooking and creating delicious Mediterranean recipes. Learn more at EleniSaltas.com.
PRODUCTION Art Director Assistant Art Director Graphic Artists
DEREK CARLISLE BRIAN PLUMMER JOSH SCHEUERMAN, SOFIA CIFUENTES VAUGHN ROBISON
BUSINESS/OFFICE Accounting Manager Office Administrators Technical Director
PAULA SALTAS DAVID ADAMSON, ANNA KASER BRYAN MANNOS
Amanda Rock is a freelance food writer and guiding light for vegans and vegetarians in search of where to dine in the Greater SLC area. Her blog, amanda-eats-slc.blogspot.com, covers the vegetarian beat and even features a few easy, tasty recipes. @amandaeatssaltlakecity
MARKETING Marketing Manager
JACKIE BRIGGS
CIRCULATION Circulation Manager
ERIC GRANATO
SALES Magazine Advertising Director Newsprint Advertising Director Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives
JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF PETE SALTAS ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER ANNE BAILEY, LISA DORELLI, ALEX MARKHAM, MIEKA SAWATZKI, JEREMIAH SMITH
Rebecca Ory-Hernandez grew up in South Louisiana surrounded by Cajun gardeners and cooks who instilled in her an early love of preparing and cooking well-made food. Rebecca is now a freelancer writer, home cook and artist who lives (and gardens) in Ogden.
Cover Photo: Eva’s shrimp & hominy small plate by John Taylor Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email Editor@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com
Copperfield Publishing Copyright 2018. All rights reserved @DevourUtah
6 Devour Utah • March 2018
@DevourUtah
@DevourUtah
Herbalist Merry Lycett Harrison owns SLC-based Millcreek Herbs. She is a professional member of the American Herbalists Guild. Her botanical research has been published in HerbalGram (the Journal of the American Botanical Council) and the Journal of Utah Archaeology. She offers classes in medicinal and culinary herbs and herb gardening. To learn more, visit MillcreekHerbs.com.
Devour Utah • March 2018 7
From Our Publisher
NIBBLE ON THIS
D
evour Editor Jerre Wroble thinks I’m the master of appetizers. I hope that’s not because of my Andre the Giant waistline, but because I’m willing to order a side of bacon for breakfast before the regular hash comes and call it an appetizer. I was once known for making sure company meetings were stacked with arrays of finger-food teasers, but as I’ve gotten older, I’m more inclined to just go the traditional route of boxed donuts. I recommend Banbury Cross. Best in town. But, back in the good old days, a restaurant didn’t offer much more than a side salad or fresh veggies, and a bar might have just stocked peanuts, pork rinds or pickled eggs (the best pickled eggs are at Junior’s Tavern, btw). Then, in the late 1970s, a private club called The Wasatch Front opened on South Temple, right below Brigham Young’s gravesite. It was Salt Lake’s first “fern bar” as they were called, and the first club in town to have an outdoor patio—the mother of today’s fine patios like what you’d find at The Green Pig. It was bar Oz. Patrons not only enjoyed the bright vibes (first club to have street-level windows), but they also could “devour” two appetizers that remain in the highlight reel of Salt Lake appetizers—freshcut, battered zucchini fingers and Chef Carl Rubadue’s magnificent plate of nachos. The Wasatch Front club was light-years removed from what other places in town were serving at the time. Fast forward to present day, and appetizers have risen to such a level that I’ll just as often dine on those and forgo a main course. For nachos, it’s Gracie’s. The chicken wings at Gibson Lounge in The Grand America are hard to beat. Roasted cauliflower is my go-to at Laziz, as are spring rolls at Fav Bistro, the Farmer’s Salad at Pallet, tomatobraised meatballs at Café Trio, and— though not technically appetizers—the bloody mary at Lucky 13 and the micheladas at Mi Lindo Nayarit come with enough protein or fruit to feed a well-regulated militia. It’s amazing, really, how far dining in Utah has come. I can’t think of a place in downtown Salt Lake that doesn’t have at least one signature appetizer, whether it be derived of pork belly (Whiskey Street) or Brussels sprouts (Eva). And you can’t miss out on the vegan and gluten-free appetizers, either, such as those plated expertly at Zest and Sage’s Café. Happy appetizer-dining out there, folks. There’s more and better to be had than ever before. Enjoy those little buggers. ❖ —by John Saltas 8 Devour Utah • March 2018
Devour Utah • March 2018 9
Appetizer Issue
T
apas
W
ith spring on the horizon, Utah diners seeking smaller bites that carry flavor and freshness are in luck. Whether you call them appetizers, small plates or tapas, each comes with the opportunity for guests to try more than one option— allowing the entire table to enjoy a dizzying array of tastes. Here, we visit four of the hottest restaurants along the Wasatch Front and Back offering small plates/tapas that pack a punch without pummeling the wallet.
10 Devour Utah • March 2018
Plucky
These small dishes are built to do the heavy lifting BY HEATHER L. KING
PHOTOS BY JOHN TAYLOR
Hamachi Crudo $16
Provisions’ hamachi crudo came about after chef and owner Tyler Stokes enjoyed a shaved cobia dish on his honeymoon last year. “I wanted to do a riff on it with one of my favorite fish to serve raw—yellowtail,” Stokes recalls. “I worked on my own version of olive snow and garlic dashi to counter it. We tried it with the pickled butternut squash and avocado, and it was perfect with the fatty belly of the yellowtail, hamachi. The olive snow is a new favorite of ours—it contains green olives, lemongrass, ginger, chiles, lime leaves, shallots and a few secret things.” Stokes feels this dish delivers salty, spicy, sweet and bitter—all in one perfect plate. Provisions 3364 S. 2300 East, SLC 801-410-4046 SLCProvisions.com
Cauliflower $13
Handle chef and owner Briar Handly took inspiration from the countless mediocre chicken wing dishes he’d eaten in his life when he created this memorable vegetarian version worthy of respect. The cauliflower is served like Buffalo hot wings with a lightly whipped blue cheese mousse and carrot and celery salad. “By using veggies with flavor, sourced from our local farmers and prepping them fresh daily, we are able to transform and elevate a dish that everyone can familiarize with,” he explains. “We also dehydrate Frank’s RedHot into a powder, make a Frank’s RedHot sauce vinaigrette and whip blue cheese into a mousse to further reinforce our guests’ memories of this classic and unexpected pairing.” Handle 136 Heber Ave., Park City 435-602-1155 HandleParkCity.com Devour Utah • March 2018 11
Appetizer Issue
Tandoori Spiced Lamb Chops $13
Chef Joey Ferran introduced Cucina’s tandoori spiced lamb chops with smoked harissa and mint and green chili chutney at a wine pairing event in 2016. Customers have been clamoring for the chops ever since. Mild New Zealand lamb chops rest in a coriander, mint, cardamom, tomato, garlic and soy marinade overnight to create a complex exterior flavor and texture. House-smoked tomatoes are then combined with stewed onions and bell peppers and seasoned with caraway, rye and coriander for an African harissa-inspired small plate. A bright chutney paste highlighting mint, coriander and Thai chiles and a flourish of raw cacao finishes the dish. Cucina Wine Bar 1026 E. Second Ave., SLC 801-322-3055 CucinaSLC.com 12 Devour Utah • March 2018
Buffalo Carpaccio $16
Sometimes, creativity is derived out of need. At Tupelo on Park City’s Main Street, chef and partner Matthew Harris challenged himself to devise a fun way to celebrate the gorgeous whole cows he was sourcing from Desert Mountain Grass-Fed Beef. The free-grazing, sustainable beef raised in Idaho made the buffalo carpaccio dish possible, lending itself perfectly to paper-thin slices that are paired with whipped Gold Creek Farms blue cheese and a housemade hot sauce aioli. Pastry chef Shirley Butler works further magic in the kitchen with her Parker rolls made to exacting highaltitude standards that soak up every last drop of sauce. ❖ Tupelo 508 Main, Park City 435-615-7700 TupeloParkCity.com
Eclectic small plates, course dinners, fine wines & full service bar.
Tue-Sat: 5pm-10 Sat-Sun: 10-2:30pm Brunch 2578 E. Bengal Blvd. 801.666.6918 ElementBistroSLC.com
SERVING BRUNCH ON SAT & SUN SALT LAKE CITY
680 South 900 East Salt Lake City, UT 84102 Tel: 801 533. 8746
COTTONWOOD
6405 South 3000 East Salt Lake City, UT 84121 Tel: 801 944. 8746
PARK CITY
6585 North Landmark Dr. Park City, UT 84098 Tel: 435 649. 9654
www.triodining.com
Devour Utah • March 2018 13
Appetizer Issue
The Devour Dozen Get appy with these 12 delicious starters that lend themselves well to sharing BY AIMEE L. COOK, AMANDA ROCK, JEN HILL & JERRE WROBLE
Su Na shi c $ hos 1
JOHN TAYLOR
4
14 Devour Utah • March 2018
JOHN TAYLOR
A
ppetizers can be a portal to another time/ space dimension. They’re the first kiss, the gold-embossed invitation to a royal ball. Not enough to fill you up but sufficient to put you in the mood, appetizers use intense, concentrated flavors to wake up the palate and arouse the senses. It’s a great pleasure to share appetizers—also called starters, small plates, bar bites, finger foods, (Spanish) tapas, (Mediterranean) mezza, (Italian) antipasto, (French) hors d’oeuvres, canapes, amuse-bouche, (Chinese) dim sum and (Japanese) sushi. Is there a culture that doesn’t offer a taste of food to stimulate the appetite? This is where the English word appetizer comes from, meaning “something to whet the appetite” or “something to appetize.” So vital are appetizers to the success of a meal that it’s mystifying to think back on appetizer trays of yesteryear: celery boats slathered with pimiento cheese; cold crunchy crudités with a side of ranch dip; black olives, bread & butter pickles and pepperoncini waiting to be stabbed with a cocktail fork; and Vienna sausages drenched in barbecue sauce. Thankfully, we’ve all upped our game since the days of the ’50s housewife. Pickled mini-gherkins need not apply (unless they’re rolled in a seasoned goat cheese and wrapped in bacon). Appetizers went on to become heartier and more filling—think pigs in a blanket, nachos, mini quiches, stuffed mushrooms, chicken wings and shrimp cocktails. And nowadays, small plates at many eateries are a draw unto themselves, with patrons eagerly anticipating the day’s artisan ingredients and distinct flavors—such as beet latkes or kimchi pancakes with shrimp. We’ve asked the Devour crew to identify their favorite appetizers, and the Devour Dozen is the result. It is by no means a complete or supreme list, but rather a tasty grouping of small bites to try and share if you haven’t already enjoyed them. If your own favorites aren’t mentioned here, add them on our social media pages or at DevourUtah.com.
Fri e Tomd Gr a een $ toes 9
Sushi Nachos
Fried Green Tomatoes
The Cliff Dining Pub 12234 Draper Gate Drive, Draper 801-523-2053 CliffDiningPub.com
Tradition 501 E. 900 South, SLC 385-202-7167 TraditionSLC.com
Yes, they really are a thing! Created somewhat by accident, chef Rene Negron needed a use for some left over spicy tuna. These hand-held delights consist of crispy fried wontons, topped with spicy tuna and crab salad that has been tossed in a Sriracha aioli, allowing for a slight kick. Finished with eel sauce, cilantro, green onion and bits of crunchy tempura, you get the best of two worlds in these unique nachos. Unfortunately, they are not available on Sundays so be sure to get them during the other six days of the week. (Aimee L. Cook)
If you’ve never tasted a fried green tomato, make a note to give these a try. The tender slices are dredged in cornmeal and perfectly pan fried. What makes these fried green tomatoes even better is the almond-garlic pesto on which they are plated and the sweet-andsavory topping finishing them off: A generous spread of chipotle aioli is spooned on the tomatoes, then further topped with a chili jam. Each bite has a crunch and a burst of sweet and smoky flavors. (Aimee L. Cook)
Devour Utah • March 2018 15
Small Plate Combo
Mix and match any of Mazza’s starter options to create a delicious trio or quartet. Fried kibbeh is like a small croquette filled with minced beef, bulgur, herbs, spices, walnuts and pine nuts and is fried to achieve a perfect crunch. The filling is rich and full of flavor. Tabbouleh is chopped parsley, tomatoes, green onions and bulgur finished off with mint, lemon and olive oil. This salad of sorts is light and a great starter to any entrée. The spinach fatayer is another filled crust of tastiness complete with spinach, onions, garlic, herbs and all those wonderful spices that make your taste buds very happy. (Aimee L. Cook)
Th e
M Tri azza o
Mazza Multiple locations MazzaCafe.com
3f or $ 12 .
JOHN TAYLOR
The Devour Dozen
s gie o r . Pie
Mu Bake sh r d $ oom 9. s
Pierogies
Baked Mushrooms
Trestle Tavern 1513 S. 1500 East, SLC 801-532-3372 TrestleTavern.com
Zest Kitchen & Bar 275 S. 200 West, SLC 801-433-0589, ZestSLC.com
Take your standard pasta dough, fill it with seared mashed potatoes mixed with some horseradish, pan sear them to a golden brown and you have a traditional pierogi. But chef Troy Thomas didn’t stop there, he created a creamy mustard and kale sauce to accompany these light but satisfying dumplings. In addition to the more traditional versions, Thomas has crafted a pierogi of pulled pork and cabbage. These are finished off with a cider-honey reduction and mustard vinaigrette, a melange of flavors that go delightfully well together. Try them both, as they are pleasantly different. (Aimee L. Cook)
16 Devour Utah • March 2018
It’s one of those appetizers you order for the table, but after the first bite, you want them all for yourself. Juicy, plump mushrooms are stuffed with a mellow cashew cheese, then baked to perfection. I love the way the crisp outside gives way to warm, creamy cheese. A generous drizzle of rich pesto and red pepper coulis decorates the plate, adding a dimension of bright flavor. Six mushrooms come in an order, and they’re pretty big, so even though you have to share (boo!), you’ll still get a generous serving (yay!). (Amanda Rock)
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
10
JOHN TAYLOR
$
270 South Rio Grande St. In the Historic Rio Grande Train Station www.riograndecafeslc.com
Lunch, Dinner & Weekend Brunch $2 Tuesdays ($2 Select Mircobrews) “Sweet Mondays” (Buy One Get One Dessert w/ Purchase Of Entree)
University: 258 S. 1300 E. • PORCUPINEPUB.COM • (801) 582-5555 Devour Utah • March 2018 17
“Gary” Vegan Cheese Tasting
The name “Gary” is an inside joke among vegans, based on a viral rant where a woman demands non-dairy cheeses be named “Gary or something.” Whatever you call them—Zest’s housemade cheeses are delicious. The cashew smoked Gouda has a deep, smoky, savory flavor balanced with a tangy finish. Sunflower cheddar with an espresso rub is visually stunning, and packs a wallop of espresso and zippy flavors. The other two cheeses, a coconut jalapeño Brie and a dollop of creamy cashew cheese are mellow, and pair perfectly with sweet blueberries and housemade berry coulis. Served with glutenfree sweet potato crackers, this cheese plate is a tasty way to start a meal. (Amanda Rock) Zest Kitchen & Bar 275 S. 200 West, SLC 801-433-0589 ZestSLC.com
Ve Ch gan e $ ese 12 . Stu ffe d Le Gra av pe $ es .
Th r Sa ee D mp ip $ 12 . ler
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
7
Three-Dip Sampler
Stuffed Grape Leaves
Laziz Kitchen 912 S. Jefferson St., SLC 801-441-1228 LazizKitchen.com
Laziz Kitchen 912 S. Jefferson St., SLC 801-441-1228 LazizKitchen.com
An absolute must at Laziz Kitchen is the Three-Dip Sampler. There are five dips to choose from, including their famous hummus and decadent labne. You can’t go wrong with whatever you order, but I’m partial to the pepper tajen (made with tahini, onions, lemon, red pepper and tomato, and topped with pine nuts and crispy fried onions); the muhammara (a slightly sweet combination of red pepper, walnuts and pomegranate molasses) and the savory baba ghannouj (made with smoky eggplant, tahini, lemon and garlic). Served with housemade pita, crisp pita chips or veggies, this sampler is a fantastic way to whet your appetite. (Amanda Rock)
18 Devour Utah • March 2018
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
The Devour Dozen
Stuffed grape leaves are a mainstay in Middle Eastern cuisine, and I’ve eaten plenty of them, but these are my favorite. Bundles of rice, mixed with a potent combination of tomatoes, garlic, parsley, lemon and walnuts are neatly swaddled in a grape leaf. These little flavor bombs will definitely wake up your taste buds. The flavor is piquant and addictive; you’ll relish each bite. Made fresh daily, the stuffed grape leaves at Laziz Kitchen are a fine example of a simple dish executed perfectly. (Amanda Rock)
Devour Utah • March 2018 19
The Devour Dozen
Rarebit Fries
9
Sh Ho rimp m & $ 12 .iny
JEN HILL
Min De i Th ton erm al $ ato 7 . rs
Mini Thermal Detonators
Shrimp & Hominy
Twin Suns Café 2305 S. Highland Drive, SLC 801-359-6035 TwinSunsCafe.com
Eva 317 S. Main, SLC 801-359-8447 EvaSLC.com
“You scruffy-looking nerf herder!” Cruise your Millennium Falcon over to Twin Suns Café for these satisfying bites of “nerf.” Mini Thermal Detonators are not Star Wars grenades but in fact very tender, cantina-style meatballs created from the kitchen of young Jedi Master/caterer/chef Daniel Cantu. Blending Italian seasonings and a ratio of two parts beef, two parts lamb and one part pork, this appetizer comes at you like a discblade spiraling in hyperspace. Served with a creamy roasted pepper sauce, sizzling on a galactic bed of fresh spinach, this force is gonna get you. (Jen Hill)
20 Devour Utah • March 2018
Eva’s intimate dining room with tables set close together creates a cozy vibe, perfect for sharing plates and sipping craft cocktails. The shrimp and hominy dish, in particular, is a delightfully complex small-plate offering. You’ll want to savor its spicy broth made with roasted tomatillo butter, thin slices of smoky Spanish chorizo and chewy, tender pillows of white hominy. Perfectly cooked jumbo shrimp are added to the broth, which is topped with tortilla strips and fresh cilantro. Be sure to have some crusty bread on hand to soak up the flavorsome broth. (Jerre Wroble)
JOHN TAYLOR
Ra r Fri ebit $ es 5 .9
Proper Burger Co. 865 S. Main, SLC 801-906-8604 ProperBurgerSLC.com
JEN HILL
Originating in 18th-century Britain, “rarebit” sauce or Welsh rabbit is a creamy, melted cheese sauce— minus the hippity-hop. As was the custom, hot rarebit sauce was poured lavishly over toasted bread. Don’t go prim with it. Chef de Cuisine Daniel Moreland serves Proper Burger Co.’s rarebit fries sizzling-hot with his 21st-century recipe, created with a savory, heart-stopping beer-cheese sauce. Diced bacon, red onion and tomato top this generous side, which can feed two modest locals or one with a royal appetite. When combined with a pint of Proper’s home draft, you can call it a feast. (Jen Hill)
Locally & Family owned!
Specializing in jewelry repair, authentic jewels, high quality diamonds, engagement rings. 801-583-2700 | 1346 S. 2100 E. SLC, UT www.redfordjewelers.com Open Daily 11am - 10pm
The
Chakra Lounge and Bar
Wednesday - Live Music Thursday - Karaoke Fri & Sat - DJ’s
Indian Style Tapas
From the Creators of The Himalayan Kitchen Next to Himalayan Kitchen
ChakraLounge.net 364 S State St. Salt Lake City Open 7 days a week 5pm - 1am Offering full bar, with innovative elixers, late night small plate menu
Devour Utah • March 2018 21
Charcuterie Board
After a day of healthy skiing, climbing or hiking in Big Cottonwood Canyon, it is oh-sotempting to stop in at the Silver Fork Lodge and undo all your commendable calorie-burning with a bodacious breakfast, burger or sandwich. But, in the interests of keeping your carb count down, why not share the savory selections of Silver Fork’s charcuterie board? Packed with Beehive cheeses, seasonal cured meats, fig gastrique, honeycomb and whole olives, it’s an après snack that really hits the spot. Munching on meat and cheese while sitting on a fur-covered chair on the heated patio, you’ll feel like the king of the mountain. (Jerre Wroble) ❖
Ch ar Bo cute r $ ard ie 2
Silver Fork Lodge 11332 E. Big Cottonwood Canyon Road, Brighton 801-533-9977 SilverForkLodge.com
1.
TONA tonarestaurant.com SUSHI BAR AND GRILL 2013 - 2016
Best Odgen Restaurant
BOSS 2016
2015 & 2016
2012 - 2016
210 25th Street, Ogden • (801) 622-8662 • facebook.com/tonasushi 22 Devour Utah • March 2018
JOHN TAYLOR
The Devour Dozen
STILL BEAUTIFULLY BLOOMING AFTER 40 YEARS!
“BALONEY IS JUST SALAMI WITH AN INFERIORITY COMPLEX.” - ELLEN DEGENERES
2005 E. 2700 SOUTH, SLC FELDMANSDELI.COM @ FELDMANSDELI OPEN TUES - SAT TO GO ORDERS: (801) 906-0369
20 1 7
Ogden’s Best Brunch only on Easter and Mother’s Day
RSVP Today! • 801-745-2060 • www.harleyandbucks.com
Great American Cuisine Hardwood Smoked Meats • Full Bar • Enjoyable Atmosphere
Quick Lunch? Savor our healthy Soup and Salad Bar
Live Music and Fresh Oysters on Weekends
Flowers, Gifts & Gallery
Dreams can be arranged!
2432 Washington in Historic Downtown Ogden
1344 S. 2100 E. | 801.521.4773 everybloomingthing.com Devour Utah • March 2018 23
Bonus Soup & Salad Starters a Kh . 9 5 m To 5 -$ 12 .9
4
JEN HILL
$
Tom Kha
Walking into Tea Zaanti may make you think you’re in some hip West Coast city, but it’s pure Salt Lake through and through. This hidden gem is locally owned and operated by a friendly and knowledgeable couple, Scott and Becky Lyttle, who love Salt Lake for the outdoor lifestyle and truly appreciate the growing foodie scene. Tea Zaanti is a tea-forward cafe in Sugar House that specializes in sourcing the highest quality loose tea. “Tea is the most widely consumed beverage in the world next to water, and can be found in almost 80% of all U.S. households. It is the only beverage commonly served hot or iced, anytime, anywhere, for any occasion. On any given day, over 159 million Americans are drinking tea,” Scott tells us, quoting teausa.com. “As the tea culture in Salt Lake City blossoms, we welcome people to begin or continue their tea adventure at Tea Zaanti.”
Ever enchanting, Chanon Thai Café perfects tom kha, and I haven’t found another to compare with its delicate nature in the whole of SLC. This exotic coconut soup is influenced with kaffir lime leaf, lemongrass and thin slices of tropical rhizomatous galangal. Mildly sweet and soothing to the palate, the vegetable version has additional broccoli, along with fresh mushrooms, cabbage and green onions (you can choose between tofu, chicken or prawns for your protein)— then is garnished with cilantro. Order a large tureen of tom kha (or tom yum, the Thai hot pot with a spectacular flaming presentation), and share a steaming bowl with everyone at your table (Jen Hill) Chanon Thai Café, 278 E. 900 South, SLC 801-532-1177, ChanonThai.com ow i n b ad a R al 8 8 S .
After an interactive visit with the “Tea-Zer” wall (where you can read about and smell every variety), a few highlights stood out. Ali Shan Oolong comes from the high mountains in Taiwan with a crisp, slightly creamy flavor profile and an undertone of fruit. Genmaicha Green Tea (the people’s tea in Japan) is a sencha tea mixed with toasted brown rice resulting in a wonderful nutty taste. We loved the naturally caffeine-free Coconut Chai (rooibos), which could warm the soul any evening in my house! The carefully thought out menu items pair perfectly with tea. The house favorite is a melted brie and fig jam on a baguette ($4.50), reminiscent of sipping tea at a cafe in France. The combo of the housemade vegan chunky tomato soup ($3.00) and grateful dead grilled cheese ($3.00) was the ideal comfort food - don’t forget to ask Scott about the story behind this one! The scones ($2) are made fresh in house and it was all I could do not to indulge in a warm scone with a blueberry matcha, but I’m saving that for my next trip.
1324 S 1100 E, SLC 84105 TeaZaanti.com Mon-Sat: 10-6 & Sun: 11-3 24 Devour Utah • March 2018
5
JEN HILL
$
The tea menu features over 85 different varieties of black, oolong, green, white, rooibos and herbal teas. All the teas are sold loose in tins, pouches or bring in your own container to fill at a bulk rate. Any of the teas can be enjoyed in house ($3.50-$4.25), custom-brewed to your liking- hot, iced or as a latte. The cozy relaxed vibe of this converted house is so inviting it just begs you to sit back and enjoy a cup with a light bite. I look forward to returning in the warmer weather and lingering on the welcoming porch. Go ahead, stay a while, second steepings are always on the house.
Rainbow Salad
Don’t expect to nibble on lettuce when ordering Oh Mai’s gluten-free Vietnamese-style goi salad. The Rainbow Salad’s tangy-sweet flavors of thinly sliced veggies, mango and a sidekick of heat pack a raw and satisfying crunch. Finished with a garlic-chile lime fish vinaigrette or a vegan citrus soy dressing, it becomes a meal on its own, both satisfying and seriously addicting. You won’t be able to stop shoveling it in, while at the same time anticipating how you’ll be craving it for lunch tomorrow, all while deliberately fanning your mouth between each delicious bite. (Jen Hill) ❖ Oh Mai Multiple locations OhMaiSandwich.com
801-713-9423 5692 South 900 Eatst Murray, UT 84121
www.japanesegrill.com
Devour Utah • March 2018 25
Appetizer Issue
A Bite of Blarney Celtic-inspired pub grub to fuel your jig WORDS & PHOTOS
BY DARBY DOYLE
F
irst things first: It’s either St. Patrick’s Day, or— shortened from the Gaelic name, Padraig—St. “Paddy’s” Day. “Patty” is a nickname for women named Patricia. Leprechauns are not cheerful pranksters—in Ireland they’re deceitful thieves and vicious troublemakers. And let’s not even mention widespread beer abuse that comes in the form of green dye. Americans have been making up their own interpretations of what a St. Patrick’s Day celebration entails since the first frightened immigrants arrived from Eire. Emigrants fled Ireland’s devastating Potato Famine of 1845, when more than a million died of disease and starvation, while over the next decade, an estimated two million emigrated to other countries, many in “coffin ships” bound for the United States. In Ireland, St. Patrick’s Day was traditionally observed as a Catholic saints’ day: Pubs and businesses were closed, and families spent time together in prayer. Even the ubiquitous Irish-American meal of corned beef & cabbage is a New World invention. Through much of Irish history, only the wealthiest could afford beef, and Irish communities concentrated their resources on raising dairy cows (for making cheese and butter) as well as hogs and sheep. During English occupation, almost all Irish beef was slated for export, usually preserved through brining and a
26 Devour Utah • March 2018
curing method called “corned” due to using large corn kernelsized salt crystals. In mid-19th century American cities, beef—especially the flavorful cheap cuts corned by Jewish kosher butchers—took the place of pork and lamb on the Irish-American table for special occasions. And St. Patrick’s Day became less of a religious holiday and more of a cultural-heritage celebration under the guise of honoring Ireland’s patron saint who drove snakes from the Emerald Isles. Ever-present potatoes rounded out the revised interpretation of the meal, along with inexpensive cruciferous winter vegetables, especially cabbage. Within a generation, the triumvirate of corned beef, cabbage and potatoes had infiltrated ever-malleable American cultural identity; Abraham Lincoln even had it served at his inaugural luncheon on March 4, 1861. Nowadays, on St. Patrick’s Day in cities like Dublin, it’s more than a little ironic to find pubs not only open but overflowing with American tourists ordering up heaping bowls of—you guessed it—corned beef & cabbage (alongside a perfectly poured pint of Guinness, of course). The savvy pub operators of Ireland know a marketing opportunity when they see one. Here’s where you’ll find us feasting on Irish-inspired appetizers on March 17 and beyond. Just keep in mind the Irish draw the line at dyeing beer green—as should we all.
Corned Beef Sliders
Corned Beef Sliders
Park City’s Old Town, especially Main Street, boasts a rich and colorful immigrant history. The building now home to Flanagan’s Irish Pub & Restaurant was constructed in 1902 to house Barton & Phillips Furniture Store and Funeral Parlor. Over the years, the site hosted the Elks Lodge and, in a sweeter turn of events, a confectionery. According to the current owners, their restaurant’s moniker honors Father E.J. Flanagan, a Catholic priest who raised funds for his orphanage (now known as Boys Town) with a nationwide traveling show featuring talented “orphan entertainer” musicians, singers and comedians with an annual Park City stop across the street at the Federal Bandstand. On the pub’s menu, you’ll find hearty “Irish Fayre” main courses like fish & chips, bangers & mash and shepherd’s pie. Those hoping for a smaller bite to share need look no further than the corned beef sliders ($12), three miniature buns stuffed with thin-sliced corned beef made in house, Swiss cheese and a zippy horseradish mayo. Flanagan’s on Main 438 Main, Park City 435-649-8600 FlanagansOnMain.com
Scotch Egg
Scotch Egg
In much of the United States, St. Patrick’s Day parades have become a pan-Gaelic celebration, with Irish wolfhound clubs marching behind fleets of vintage British mini Coopers and MGs, all accompanied by Scottish kilt-clad pipe & drum corps. The multicultural approach is also the case for drinking establishments such as Piper Down Pub, a Salt Lake City institution founded in 2003. In addition to plentiful on-tap options like Irish Guinness and Strongbow hard cider, the pub has a decent selection of bottled beers and one of the best collections of Irish whiskey in town. They also serve a hearty small bite in the form of Scotch eggs ($9)—two hard-boiled eggs encased in pork sausage, rolled in breadcrumbs and then deep fried; served with a tangy Guinness mustard dipping sauce. It’s an almost-perfect hangover food. Of this snacks-menu item, Piper Down bartender Maureen “Mo” O’Donnell notes, “We go through a lot of them. They’re a great, high-protein quick bite.” Piper Down Public House 1492 S. State, SLC 801-468-1492 PiperDownPub.com
Devour Utah • March 2018 27
Appetizer Issue
Potato Cake & Smoked Salmon
Potato Cake & Smoked Salmon
You’ll find plenty of rib-sticking Irish favorites at MacCool’s Public House, such as sausage bangers & mash, generous housemade corned beef sandwiches and a daily special boxty: A traditional Irish dish consisting of a thin, crêpe-like potato pancake stuffed with options like corned beef and potatoes or rich salmon chowder with herbs. But on days when March’s mercurial weather turns warmer and our palates prefer lighter fare, the easily shareable house-cured salmon gravlax with potato cake ($11.99) with fresh herbs and sour cream-dolloped croutons hits the spot. The MacCool’s location at Foothill Village on SLC’s east bench also serves up a neighborhood favorite Sunday brunch, often featuring live Celtic music. MacCool’s Public House 855 N. Heritage Park 1400 Foothill Drive Blvd., No. 3, Layton No. 166, SLC 801-728-9111 801-582-3111 Facebook.com/maccools
Irish Nachos
Irish Nachos
What’s more quintessentially American than mashing up two completely different cultural food concepts into one delicious dish? Behold: Irish nachos ($9.95), an appetizer found on almost every Irish pub menu in Utah, is crafted with pizazz at downtown Ogden’s Harp & Hound, which just celebrated its one-year anniversary in January. The generous helping of house-cured corned beef, jalapeños, sour cream and onions is piled high over a plate of just-fried potato crisps, of which bartender Kam Daniels says, “we make ’em fresh every day.” Joined with a pint of Guinness, it’s a meal on its own, with plenty to share. Co-owner Dave Morris (who also owns Piper Down) has assembled an extensive vegan menu that might not be Irishinspired but provides patrons with plenty of vegan comfort-food options. Harp & Hound 2550 Washington Blvd., Ogden 801-621-3483 HarpHound.com
28 Devour Utah • March 2018
Enjoy a Saturday in Park City learning about historic sites as you taste fine wines, each selected to reflect these stunning locations.
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Spread the
30 Devour Utah • March 2018
Tinker’s Cat Café
A
fter launching a successful Kickstarter campaign in 2016, Lisa Boone opened Tinker’s Cat Café in November 2017. The first of its kind in Salt Lake City, this cat café is located in a former violin shop along the burgeoning 900 South corridor near Liberty Park. It’s the purr-fect place to enjoy the company of friendly felines alongside a warm beverage and pastry. The building houses a regular café on its west side, which serves local Rimini coffee and tea drinks with cat-pun names, like catpuccino and camomeow tea. Cookies decorated with cats from Les Madeleines and vegan treats from City Cakes fill the pastry case. Food is made outside of Tinker’s Cat Café and is kept separate from Tinker’s Cat Lounge. Purr-use the stuff for sale like catnip joints and hand-knitted beanies with cat ears. Cat-themed art decorates the walls, and there are a few tables where you can drink coffee and eat a lemon bar before hanging out with the cats. A wall that separates the café from the cat lounge on the east side, where the cat magic happens. To enter, you need to make an advance reservation and pay the $8 hourly fee (children 10 and under pay $6), which allows you to spend time with Madame Bovary, the cafe’s resident cat, as well as 10 to 14 adoptable cats from Salt Lake County Animal Services. The cat room is pawsh—decorated like an Ikea for cats—with a wall of shelves for climbing, a tall cat tree and other comfy kitty features. Huge windows give the cats a view of the world and let in natural light. Plus, it delights the humans who can watch the kitty fun from the sidewalk. The home-like atmosphere allows the cat’s personalities shine. As of late January, 31 cats have found loving, purr-manent homes. ❖
Mural on Tinker’s Cat Café’s exterior wall Enjoy Rimini coffees and pastries from Les Madeleines and City Cakes
Advance reservations are required to hang out with adoptable felines in the cat lounge
Tinker’s Cat Café 302 E. 900 South, SLC 801-519-2287 TinkersCatCafe.com —By Amanda Rock Photos by Josh Scheuerman
Devour Utah • March 2018 31
the cruel canapé
Avocado toast is all fun and games until the bill comes due BY ARI LEVAUX
A
vocado toast is having quite the moment. Toast, in general, is figuratively on fire, the carb darling du jour at coffee shops everywhere. And avocado is in the midst of a boom all its own. Worldwide, we are eating more avocados than ever. Avocados have lots of fat and hardly any carbs, making them a favorite among low-carb dieters. As evidence of their fat content, the texture is buttery, and spreads perfectly on the sharp, pocked surface of the hot toast, where it forms a creamy, crunchy, chewy layer of food that you are happy to savor. But beware. There are dangers lurking beneath the crispy, possibly pre-buttered surface of that avocado toast. An injury known as “avocado hand” has emerged recently in England, where avocado consumption has leapt by more than 25 percent annually in recent years. The broad diagnosis of avocado hand includes various form of selfinflicted knife injuries, some of which require surgery, that occur during pit removal. “People do not anticipate that the avocados they buy can be very ripe and there is minimal understanding of how
32 Devour Utah • March 2018
to handle them,” plastic surgeon Simon Eccles told the UK’s Times. “We don’t want to put people off the fruit, but I think warning labels are an effective way of dealing with this.” Eccles recalls treating as many as four cases of avocado hand in a single week. On this side of the pond, things have not reached epidemic stage, although Martha Stewart admits to more than one avocado-related injury. I see on the internet that she now holds the pit-containing half with a folded kitchen towel, which protects her hand from the occasional epic fail. I now watch avocado-toast videos in a state of suspense, which only builds as the avocado waits quietly on the cutting board. Flinchy moments are not hard to come by. One hostess announced, “And now I’ll take the pit out, by stabbing and twisting.” Another commanded her viewers not to sue. As if avocado hand isn’t enough to worry about, aficionados recently learned about yet another hazard they must face: a lifetime of renting. Australian real-estate tycoon Tim Gurner insinuated that young workers are unable to afford property because
TAMMY PAINTER
of frivolous spending when he told Australia’s 60 Minutes, “When I was trying to buy my first home, I wasn’t buying smashed avocado for $19 and four coffees at $4 each.” Predictably, Gurner was maimed on social media and in the news. Several teams of journalists crunched their local housing and avocadotoast numbers to determine how many average-priced orders it would take to forego the average house. Others looked at the math of making avocado toast at home, where one would have to add caviar and a poached dodo egg to get the price tag above $5 for two slices. Meanwhile, it is entirely possible to pay a lot more for toast in the city than the $19 figure Gurner tossed out. Perhaps he had a point. Devour Utah • March 2018 33
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Speaking of price, in 2017, the cost of avocados skyrocketed, thanks in part to severe floods in South America. But not to worry, because in Mexico, huge swaths of old-growth jungle are being clear-cut in order to plant more avocado trees, all so avocado-toast lovers can mutilate their hands. I first heard about this version of toast years ago— before most hipsters even knew what a macchiato was—from an aspiring coffee shop owner whose wife had just returned from a trip to Los Angeles. I thought it was the silliest thing ever. Now, a decade later, my friend lives in a house that was basically paid for by avocado toast—his best-selling slab. When I asked my friend if he found it troublesome that millennials are trading their dreams of home ownership for some overpriced calories made by some dude with a beard, he was philosophical. “The real question,” he suggested, “is ‘which is more important: a new house or avocado toast?’” And if you happen to be in Australia, that latte on the side can be served in an avocado skin. My friend’s avocado slab is built on a thick slice of toasted sourdough loaf. Half an avocado is smeared on, and dressed with salt, pepper and coconut oil. Personally, I prefer a good olive oil to most coconut oils available on the market. And I fancy a squeeze of lemon or lime. After the pit has been safely removed, I gently slice the flesh with a butter knife, while the peel is still on, and then squeeze it onto the toast and mash it around. Before adding the oil and lemon, consider adding whatever seasonal delicacies you can assemble. You can throw on a thin slice of radish or turnip or tomatoes. A poached egg is a decadent addition to anything, including avocado toast. Some leftover chicken toasted on the bread and sprinkled with cheese can be smeared with avocado with glorious results. Spinach pesto, pickled jalapeños, capers, salt and pepper chile flakes all work just fine with avocado toast. Just watch that knife. ❖
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Devour This | Recipes
Dakos (Cretan Rusk) BY ELENI SALTAS
O
f all the regional foods I’ve tried in Greece, Cretan cuisine is by far my favorite. From the most rural villages to cities like Chania, you’ll find dishes layered with fresh herbs, cheeses, vegetables and plenty of olive oil—these key ingredients create simple but flavorful dishes. One of the best representations of Cretan cuisine is dakos, a traditional meze (appetizer) that I could eat daily and never tire of. Similar to Italian bruschetta, dakos is made with a twice-baked rusk bread that is hard as nails, meaning, before serving, it needs to be reconstituted with water or olive oil to soften it. In Crete, rusks are most often barleybased, but wheat- or rye-based are also common. It’s the toppings that make this dish memorable. For Cretan dakos, rusks are topped with juicy tomatoes (preferably fresh from the vine), soft cheese (such as Cretan mizithra, feta or ricotta) and garnished with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and oregano. Complete the dakos with a Kalamata olive on top. Once assembled, if you look straight down, you might notice the dakos resembles the eye of an owl, which is why in Crete the dish is also referred to as koukouvagia (owl). If you’re new to Cretan cuisine, dakos is the perfect place to start your journey. You don’t need to travel all the way to Crete to make dakos, as the recipe below easily can be made at home.
Ingredients 2 3 2 3
barley rusks medium tomatoes, grated tablespoons oregano to 5 ounces soft cheese (mizithra, ricotta or feta cheese) Kalamata olives Extra virgin olive oil Pinch of salt Serves: 1-2
Grate tomatoes and put aside in a bowl. Mix in oregano and a pinch of salt with the tomatoes. Run the rusks under water to lightly moisten them. Plate the rusks and drizzle a generous amount of olive oil over each one. Spread the tomato mixture on top of each rusk, covering the entire rusk. Add the soft cheese on top. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle additional oregano on top. To finish, top with a Kalamata olive and enjoy! Double, triple or quadruple the recipe to make more dakos for your friends and family. ❖
36 Devour Utah • March 2018
Dakos
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Devour Utah • March 2018 37
Profile
Dinner At Your Door Your dream of a chef-made meal delivered to your home comes true. BY AIMEE L. COOK
E
ver wished you could dig into a truly inspired meal from the comforts of your home—one that was prepared by someone else and then brought to your door? Well, then, you’ll be glad to know that dreams do come true in the form of Wasatch Fresh. Created by Italiantrained chef Page Ane Viehweg, the service allows you to select from a rotating menu of delectable offerings that include dishes like Thai coconut shrimp with squash, steamed jasmine rice and cucumber salad, broccoli & mushroom crêpes and vegetable lentil soup. “It is nice for my clients who work all day to not have to worry about cooking dinner,” Viehweg says. “I feel that so many people either don’t have time to cook or maybe don’t like to cook—we deliver you a meal that is already done.” To say Viehweg knows her way around the kitchen is an understatement. Although a native of Utah, she spent several years in commercial kitchens in California and Italy, as well as serving stints as a personal chef and residential chef at Sur la Table in Salt Lake City. “It was my neighbor’s suggestion that got me started in this over a year ago,” Viehweg says. “It took a lot of time and meetings until we finally launched it in June 2016. I change my menu weekly, I do not repeat very often, and [if I do,] it is 38 Devour Utah • March 2018
Wasatch Fresh’s Thai coconut shrimp with squash usually something that is requested by clients.” The concept of having fresh, fully cooked meals delivered to your doorstep is definitely catching on. In just over a year, Wasatch Fresh has grown to serving hundreds of clients each week. All recipes have Viehweg’s personal attention to detail. Before ever making it onto the menu rotation, each meal has been tested, tweaked and reheated to ensure taste and quality. Viehweg likes to change things up. “I like to go out to eat and try new things,” she says. “There are a million different ways to cook chicken. It’s is so exciting [to be] creative.” The menu rotates daily from poultry entrées to pork, seafood, red meat and vegetarian. Because she studied in Italy, that country’s cuisine remains her favorite. “It is on the menu at least once a week,” she says. If one of the menu items does not appeal to your taste buds, you can skip that delivery with notice. “I do the menus four weeks out so people can see what is planned in advance,” Viehweg says. Not only does she keep things seasonal as much as possible, but she partners with local businesses to use local products. As the name of her business suggests, “I am big on fresh ingredients,” she says. Viehweg is her own toughest critic, making sure quality is at the forefront of all her products. Above all, she wants her
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meals to be nutritious. “The way I cook for my family is the way I cook for my clients,” she says. Wasatch Fresh meals are made in a commercial kitchen and packaged, with attention to presentation, in a to-go container that can be simply heated for one to two minutes before eating. In addition, a description of each food item, along with a snippet of food trivia, is included. Members who sign up for the service are provided with a soft-sided cooler to place at their door that will be filled with tasty meals. Guaranteed fresh for up to three days in the refrigerator, the meals cost $12 each and can be purchased in meal plans that are delivered two to five days per week. ❖ Wasatch Fresh 1337 S. Main, SLC 385-528-2413 WasatchFresh.com Devour Utah • March 2018 39
Nutrition
Dandelions
bitter is better Enjoy spring’s earliest greens for health and vitality
Lovage Chives
BY MERRY LYCETT HARRISON
P
lants that grow in early spring burst forth with gusto. They are, by design, shaped and adapted to succeed and produce quickly, no matter what the lingering winter weather conditions hold. The ones we eat this time of year offer us just the flavors we crave. They give our bodies a boost in nutrition and important physiological triggers to cleanse, refresh and renew. Before refrigeration, winter food selections in colder climates consisted of a lot of meats that had been preserved by salting, brining, smoking, drying and canning. People also ate thick-skinned fruits and vegetables, often from a dark, dank cellar. After months of this kind of diet, livers become sluggish, causing people to feel bloated and moody. The body’s filtering process could grind to a halt. At the first scent of bare soil, people instinctively set out to find anything fresh and green to eat. Dandelions were among the earliest leafy greens to appear, and folks harvested them by the basketful. They craved the bitter taste of the leaves that stimulate the digestive tract and the rich minerals that nourish the blood. 40 Devour Utah • March 2018
The same is true today. Our preference for the richer, heavier foods we needed during the winter naturally shifts to foods that clear and release and that bring a “spring” to our step. Herbs also offer nutrient-rich, flavorful possibilities. Before the snow has even melted, lovage can be seen spearheading its delicious, celery-flavored leafy tips through the shallow blanket of white. Within a few days, oniony chive points might be visible and soon after, tart, sour, lemony sorrel leaves can be harvested. Sour tastes are essential for us and come in varying degrees. They are astringent and cause a tightening and tonifying action to membranes and some organs. Herbs picked in early spring have a potency to them that wanes when days become longer and warmer. Their flavor and nutritional value are at their best at this time. Chop them all up fresh in a salad with some arugula, which also might be ready to pick at this time, and toss with a bright vinaigrette or lemon and oil dressing. Add the peppery heat of a crisp, early radish to stimulate circulation that helps the body move blood, fluids and waste, thereby avoiding stagnation.
Chevril Nettles
Fiddlehead Ferns
Wild Asparagus Add them to warm (not hot) tabbouleh, quinoa or pasta just before serving. This helps release their aromatic scents. If you are looking for a way to ensure happy guests and good conversation at a dinner party, include these just-picked herbs in your menu and watch the energy in the room naturally lift. There will also be sweet, lacey anise-flavored chervil available in abundance in the garden. It is especially high in potassium. Get it while you can to chop into chicken salad or cook, briefly, with a slivered shallot and delicate light fish sealed in foil to capture its flavor. Mix in mayonnaise or yogurt spreads and dips, drop into omelets and egg dishes or toss into green, rice or pasta salads. You might discover dainty wild asparagus shoots while walking through a fallow field in early spring. Eating it fresh on the spot is a real treat—nothing like the days-old, limp, grocery store variety. They go down like candy, so eating just a few is impossible. The complexity of their earthy and slightly bitter flavor delights our appetite, while their diuretic properties help move fluids in the body. In the forest, fiddlehead ferns remind of nature’s wisdom in their graceful process of emergence. After the long winter,
when conditions are right, they unfurl, but before they do, we can cut them at ground level and eat them lightly sautéed. Their green flavor and slick texture (similar to asparagus) are pleasing and soothing to the palate. Tender young nettles are also at their best, and they don’t sting yet. Cook the leaves like spinach or even dry them for a tea. Nettles are a superfood because they are specialists at absorbing minerals from the soil. Therefore, be sure to harvest them in very clean area. They also have diuretic properties. Some of these foods might be available year-round, but the changing of the season is a good reason to introduce them into your diet. For those who embrace the concepts of eating food in season and food as medicine, or who just enjoy foraging in nature or markets, consider indulging in some of our earliest healthful spring greens. You, too, might find your body craves them. ❖
Merry Lycett Harrison, RH (AHG), is the owner of Millcreek Herbs in Salt Lake City. She’s also a teacher, author and a professional member of the American Herbalists Guild. Learn more at MillcreekHerbs.com Devour Utah • March 2018 41
Plate It
The Aerie
Fritters
S
nowbird’s flagship restaurant and lounge, the Aerie, on the 10th floor of the Cliff Lodge, is a perennial favorite among those who recreate in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Aerie’s modern lounge, with its 15-foot-high windows overlooking the mountain, is just the place to be each day from 5 to 6 p.m. when Aerie’s small-plate offerings are half-price. Executive chef Ken Ohlinger’s modern American gastropub cuisine fills the hungry void after a day on the slopes, with 10 mouth-watering appetizers to choose from, including chipotle-braised pork cheek, tuna tartare and crab cakes. Sit back on comfortable barrel chairs and couches and take in the view while sipping a glass of wine from the Aerie’s extensive award-winning wine list. For an appetizer that satisfies but leaves room for dinner, consider the Aerie’s Fritters, made fresh daily with tri-color quinoa and mushroom powder. A serving of six is lightly fried and plated over a dab of truffle herb aioli. Not only are they light and crisp to behold—and to eat—but represent a great way to fritter away a happy hour. ❖ —Story/photos by Jerre Wroble
The Aerie Restaurant & Lounge Snowbird Resort Cliff Lodge, Level 10 9320 S. Cliff Lodge Drive 801-933-2160 Snowbird.com/dining/the-aerie
42 Devour Utah • March 2018
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Devour Utah • March 2018 43
What a Pair
2
BY JIM SANTANGELO
3
Every day, Caputo’s Cheese Cave (Caputos. com) makes burrata—a thin shell of fresh mozzarella filled with heavy cream, sea salt and hand-pulled cheese curds. It requires a glass of A Mano Bianco, a white wine from Puglia, Italy, ($12) made from a blend of Fiano and Greco, showing orange blossom, white peach and minerality.
1
44 Devour Utah • March 2018
4
Kitchen’s 2 Laziz hummus (LazizKitchen.com) is made from a blend of unique spices sourced from Palestine and Lebanon. When enjoyed with their fresh-baked pita, reach for a glass of Carol Shelton Coquille Blanc from Paso Robles ($16). This wine explodes with spicy peach, apricot and zesty orange.
1
Beltex Meats’ 3 Among (BeltexMeats.com) luscious pâté offerings is the Forestier (prepared with pork shoulder, spices and bourbon-glazed mushrooms). For an excellent pairing, grab a glass of Latour Marsannay, Côte de Nuits pinot noir ($24). Its wild herb, cherry and pepper flavors intermingle with the deep earthiness of the pâté.
Ritual Chocolate 4 (RitualChocolate.com) produces a 75 percent cacao aged for months in High West Distillery bourbon barrels. The notes of charred oak soften the overall chocolate characteristics. What better way to enjoy it than with a dram of High West’s American Prairie Bourbon ($20) neat? ❖
Jim Santangelo is owner/educator Wine Academy of Utah @WineAcademyofUT
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Spirit Guide
cocktails, d e ft ra -c e m o Irish with h e th e bar te th ra t b a le — e y ll C u tf c em—respe th g n ri e rd o y or b YLE BY DARBY DO
A
ythology n of food m io ss cu is d e sumptively s with th there are pre e, su is is th invented in earlier in ere actually w t a th ” g ks n “Irish dri ise: Orderin ord to the w w d r n (o A . a in Dublin Americ n Irish pub a t a e o, es g a th hic a few of k, Boston, C tter, New Yor e for ey k in st for that ma e get you th ill w ly b si for being an etc.) pos pummeling s ou or ig v a st, and at wor ignorance, d in the rse. , as it’s calle b om B insensitive a r a C nd a shot of nt: The Irish m liqueur a ea Case in poi cr h is Ir of Guinness s, is a shot of ost-full pint lm a United State n a to in xplosion” y dropped ally in an “e tic a m Irish whiske ra d p u losions and then froths roblem? Exp p e beer, which Th o. g e d joking s chug in on Ireland— an in er that patron tt a m minder of no laughing insensitive re d n a violence are el u cr a e for many ombings is o-distant tim -s ot n about car b s ou er g ful and dan a very pain & Tan—half e. er g th ing a Black er d or people livin e or ef yered with ink twice b pint glass la a Likewise, th of m to ot b mbo is lager in the Isle, that co pale ale or the Emerald n O ger or Bass . la p to rp on e with Ha d a m stout poured lly a su alf & Half, u top. known as H st uinness on G d n a fter all, it’s ju m to ot b e th fe of nsive? A so ale on n Ta & akes Black So, what m
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ple, s not so sim ght? Well, it’ ri r, ee ng b ri of ea w groups the colors describing aramilitary p sh iti ed Br m s, a (nickn e 1920 black shirts pilgrim. In th ence ousers and tr ki a h independ is kh Ir of e press th p uniforms su to t n se s”) were “black & tan l means. A ten by bruta of suspected IR t, movemen sing down a ch tly Th n le to vio vilians. e In addition and killed ci s n w to tion ed ey burn to the escala members, th day” refers n Su y A d IR oo n for the nday Bl in retaliatio U2 song “Su en h w , es ce d lligen on all si e British inte of violence ation of som in players ss a on ss a e fir sanctioned s opened p oo tr n ta d of gunshot black & atch; 13 die officers, 100 m er were cc so another 60 a Dublin death and and fans at to d lf in le a p H m & a a Half o were tr my order as wounds, tw ify od m lly spectfu injured. I’ll re hemed . icious Irish-t ce n remembra order the del to is d town. n n u tio ro ter op ite bars a or v fa r An even bet ou y key es at n Irish whis llowing pag some moder drinks on fo p e u g om n h ki t a a ticuffs— g and sh potential fis Or try stirrin d n a r sy ou y er o say “t s controv ing how to history— san h ided. Learn v ro and old Iris p es ew p n ci r over you with the re in w n or ca o eh E- ch aelic als nced SLOYN health” in G áinte (pronou sl e b t’d ). a lect friends. Th g on the dia h, dependin SLAWN-cha
“May your blessings outnumber the shamrocks that grow, And may trouble avoid you wherever you go.” —Irish blessing The Drink: Irish Rose The Maker: Jessica Sandberg Under Current Bar 279 E. 300 South, SLC 801-574-2556 UnderCurrentBar.com An incredibly well-balanced and beautifully hued drink, an Irish Rose is a spin on a classic Jack Rose cocktail using Irish whiskey. In this case, Jessica Sandberg recommends using Jameson Irish whiskey as the base spirit and Laphroaig Islay single-malt Scotch for the coupe rinse. With its distinctive pale salmon color, creamy texture and spectacular floral nose coming through the gorgeous frothy head, it’s a cocktail as elegant as it is delightful. “My basic advice for elevating cocktails from merely good to great,” Sandberg says, “would be to use clean ice, fresh-squeezed juice, and avoid commercial red-dye grenadine.” Irish Rose 1 egg white ¾ ounce fresh lime juice ¾ ounce housemade pomegranate grenadine 1½ ounces Irish whiskey Islay Scotch rinse
DARBY DOYLE
Method: To a cocktail shaker with no ice add egg white, lime juice, grenadine and Irish whiskey. Dry shake to emulsify the egg whites. Add ice and shake again until the drink is very frothy and well chilled. Add about ¼ teaspoon of Scotch to a chilled coupe and swirl to coat the interior of the glass; discard excess. Double strain the cocktail into the glass—no garnish.
Devour Utah • March 2018 47
Spirit Guide
The Drink: “Real” Irish Coffee The Maker: Adam Albro The Rest 331 S. Main, SLC Bodega331.com True story: The Rest Bar Manager Adam Albro’s first bar job was sweeping floors at a pub in Dublin, Ireland. The Utah native attended Trinity College for four years, and that was his work-in-trade gig after classes. Along with sampling many a pint o’ stout, Albro learned that instead of using Irish cream liqueurs in boozy coffee, it’s usually made with a strong (way more than a Utah pour) glug of whiskey, a bit of sugar and real whipped cream. “It combines two of my true great loves: whiskey and black coffee,” Albro says, sprinkling a bit of brown sugar to garnish the mound of whipped cream adorning a steaming mug. He also recommends adding some amaro and a few dashes of cocktail bitters to round out and balance the whiskey. Given the time and inclination, Albro might also be amenable to critiquing your pronunciation of sláinte. He implores, “Just don’t say it like ‘cilantro.’”
“Only Irish coffee provides in a single glass all four essential food groups: alcohol, caffeine, sugar and fat.” —Alex Levine
“Real” Irish Coffee 1 ounce Redbreast or other Irish whiskey ½ ounce rich brown sugar syrup * ½ ounce Cynar amaro 3 dashes Honest John coffee-cherry bitters 6 ounces hot black coffee Lightly sweetened heavy whipped cream
* Rich brown sugar syrup: Add two parts dark brown sugar to one part boiling water, stir well until all sugar is dissolved. Cool to room temperature. Store in a lidded glass jar, refrigerated, for up to one month.
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DARBY DOYLE
Method: Add whiskey, syrup, amaro and bitters to a mug or Irish coffee glass. Gently stir to combine. Pour in coffee. Top with whipped cream, a sprinkle of dark brown sugar and a Luxardo cherry.
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Spirit Guide
The Drink: The Long Piper The Maker: Ross Richardson Copper Common 111 E. 300 South, SLC 801-355-0543 CopperCommon.com This cocktail’s creator, Ross Richardson, says his final formula came from a place of nostalgia: “It was the first drink I ever developed for Copper Common and it was kind of an homage to the last six years I had spent at The Republican,” one of SLC’s more dive-y (in the best possible way) Irish bars. The blend of Italian and French aperitifs, a bit of thick texture from the heavy simple syrup and little zip from the long pepper tincture make for a well-balanced and rich combination. “It drinks like an Old Fashioned with a pleasant note of creamed coffee,” Richardson says.
“Here's to the land of the shamrock so green, Here's to each lad and his darlin' colleen, Here's to the ones we love dearest and most. May God bless old Ireland, that's this Irishman's toast!” —Traditional toast
The Long Piper 1½ ounces Irish whiskey ½ ounce Salers Apéritif ½ ounce Cardamaro amaro ¼ ounce rich simple syrup * 8 drops Addition long pepper cocktail spice
* Rich simple syrup: dissolve two parts sugar into one part boiling water. Simmer and stir until all sugar is dissolved. Cool to room temperature. May be refrigerated for up to two weeks in a lidded glass container.
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CAROLINE HARGRAVES
Method: Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass with ice. Stir until well chilled. Strain into a chilled old fashioned glass and garnish with an orange swath.
Spirit Guide
BONUS RECIPE Irish Cream Unlike many Irish cream liqueurs sold stateside— which can be disconcertingly viscous, full of artificial preservatives and emulsifiers, and have a profile tending toward cloyingly sweet—homemade Irish cream strikes a balance of boozy beauty, clean flavors and fresh creamy texture. Just plan to either drink it fast or give any extra away as gifts. Made with fresh ingredients, this Irish cream will separate over time and must be kept refrigerated.
Method: Combine all ingredients in a blender, whirl until well combined. Store in lidded glass jars or bottles and keep refrigerated. Shake well before using. Makes about 4 cups (2 pints). Adapted from SeriousEats.com ❖
DEREK CARLISLE
1¼ cups Irish whiskey 1 tablespoon instant espresso powder 1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk ½ cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder Seeds from 1 vanilla bean or 1 tablespoon highquality vanilla extract 1 tablespoon real almond extract 2 tablespoons honey
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Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
App There’s an
for that
T
he first bite of food at a Utah restaurant is always the most impactful. The French have known this since the mid17th century when hors d’oeuvre made their first appearance at a dining event. And what’s the difference? From the traditional hors d’oeuvre, first course, amuse bouche, antipasto, appetizer and the recent trend of small plates … when you break them down, typically it’s the first option on a well-crafted
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menu that teases and delights your palate as your first taste when dining. The Utah Restaurant Association holds in high regard the importance of said first taste and we are dedicated to emphasizing it. We acknowledge it as one of the most significant and integral aspects of a restaurant experience. For our educational teen cooking television program TeenChef Pro, the way each TeenChef must audition for their MentorChefs is by preparing an amuse bouche. During ProStart
ED GREGORY
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
team culinary competitions for regionals, state and the national championships, it’s one of the three dishes that must be prepared and judged in each competition. Taste Utah Bytes are the bite-sized weekday taste you get before the main episode every Saturday at 11:00 AM on Utah’s CW30. Appetizers, or what we affectionately call Big Taste, Small Plates is becoming an a culinary art form unto itself. Small plates are quickly becoming the star of the menu and at many Utah restaurants actually
outshine some entrees. For many Utah restaurants, the small plates menu is intentionally orchestrated as part of the larger menu and overall dining experience allowing guests to choose their dining adventures. Utah chefs encourage a communal atmosphere of small plates dining, inviting guests to share small plates oozing with flavor, refined with culture and taste. Utah restaurants and chefs are continuously creating community through extraordinary shared food experiences. Devour Utah • March 2018 53
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
WE’VE MOVED! TEENCHEF PRO AND TASTE UTAH HAVE MOVED
BEGINNING SAT. OCTOBER 7, 2017 AT 11AM -11:30AM
3CHEFS
OF UTAH’S HOTTEST
2 BURNERS 1 DREAM
ZERO ELECTRICITY Twelve teens compete on the Emmy award winning series TeenChef Pro for a four year scholarship to Johnson & Wales University and the ultimate title of TeenChef Pro Champion. Catch up on season three at www.ORATV.com. TeenChef Pro will be back on Utah’s CW in July 2018.
CAN YOU TAKE THE HEAT?
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Behind every good food story, is a great people story. Join your hosts Katy and Jami as we take a bite out of Utah’s food culture with this food forward weekly series. Each episode is a road trip across our state where we discover unique Utah dining destinations, chefs, farmers, purveyors and the story behind their craft. Season 3 of Taste Utah is airing on Utah’s CW every Saturday at 11:00AM. Taste with us all year long on www. TasteUT.com and Taste Utah Bytes on ABC 4 Utah during the Midday News.
Get Tasting With Us!
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
Big Taste, Small Plates
G
one are the days of the “sharing stigma”. We all know the awkward moment when it’s your turn to order and your server looks down at you in horror as you timidly say, “We were going to share . . .” In fact, Utah chefs and restaurateurs encourage sharing with small plates menus, allowing guests to sample a myriad of flavors, items and even cultures in one sitting. Appetizers are definitely not going away, better yet they are morphing into the communal style of eating known as small plates- where food is the vehicle but how it is shared creates community. In this vein, we are highlighting two Utah restaurants where small plates are not just the beginning of the meal, but a communal reason to discover unique Utah chef’s perspectives through artistry, sourcing and seasonality.
Provisions
3364 S 2300 E Salt Lake City, UT 84109 801.410.4046 Chef and Owner Tyler Stokes has created a dynamic dining experience with his small plates menu which he switches up seasonally. From the sushi-style hibachi crudo, Asian-inspired steamed buns with a choice of pork , shrimp and grits, wood roasted mushroom toast and the infamously delicious steak tartare. His something for every mood style and offerings are so on point, any plate is sure to guarantee small plates pairing satisfaction.
Communal
102 N. University Provo, UT 84061 801. 373.8000 Communal’s entire mission is built on relationships with local farmers, and artisans as well as their customers. Chef Brandon Cervantes encourages shared food experiences through small plate sharing as well as entrees fit to share but also elevates the entire experience with their staple community table as the center piece of the restaurant. With a seasonal menu featuring an impeccable charcuterie board, scallops, braised rabbit, yellow french polenta and barley risotto the small plates potential is powerful at Communal.
Devour Utah • March 2018 55
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
Airing Thursdays and Fridays on ABC4 Utah during the Midday News.
We Are Utah ProStart Don’t Miss Utah ProStart State Finals in Culinary and Management! Tuesday March 6, 2018 9:00AM - 3:00PM Mountain America Expo Center (formerly South Towne Expo)
9575 State St, Sandy, UT 84070 The Utah Restaurant Association invites you to attend the annual Utah ProStart State Championship Culinary and Management competitions. The URA’s school to career program ProStart® trains juniors and senior in high school to enter careers in culinary or hospitality management in the restaurant industry. The highest scoring Culinary and Management teams will continue on to the National Invitational held April 27 29, 2018 in Providence RI. Attendance is free of charge and open to all culinary enthusiasts.
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Bytes Taste Utah
Join Katy and Jami as they stop by two Utah Dining Destinations featuring small plates and appetizers worthy of sharing or eating all on your own.
Manoli’s 402 E Harvey Milk Blvd, #2, Salt Lake City, UT 84111 801.532.3760 Small Plates is Chef and Owner Manoli’s specialty. As a neighborhood restaurant he believes a small plate menu allows diners a greater variety and an elevated sense of community through sharing. The Meze heavy (small dish) menu includes vegetarian, seafood and meat options with traditional Greek influence and Manoli’s signature multi-dimensional flavor. Open for dinner nightly except Mondays and now open for weekend brunch.
Somi 1215 E. Wilmington Ave., Suite 100, Salt Lake City, UT 84106 385.322.1158 The very name is a bite size blend of Somi’s owners and chefs- the husband and wife team Sophia and Michael. The menu highlights Sophia’s Vietnamese heritage as well as Michael’s Chinese roots. Michael recommends exploring the starter section of offerings although the entire menu can be shared among a small or large table. Somi is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
save date the
2018
You are cordially invited to attend the 2018 Utah restaurant association’s industry awards gala.
Celebrating 75 Years
serving utah’s restaurant and food service industry. MONDAY, MAY 7, 2018 GRAND AMERICA HOTEL GRAND BALLROOM 6:00PM - 8:30PM Among the prestigious honors awarded include: Lifetime Achievement Award | Golden Spoon Award | Hall Of Fame Award | 2018 Taste Utah Awards Silver Platter Award | Heart Of The Industry Awards | 2018 New Concept Awards For ticket sales and sponsorship opportunities contact the utah restaurant association.
801.274.7309 Info@utahrestaurantassociation.org Devour Utah • March 2018 57
Last Bite
Aiko’s Mochi Japanese confections honor culture and tradition
STORY & PHOTOS BY REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ
O
ne of the most delightful aspects of being a foodie is sharing meals with friends from wonderful cultures around the world. I especially loved spending time recently with my Japanese-American friend, Aiko Hamada, a 92-year-old pistol from Ogden, Utah. For the past 60 years, Hamada has prepared a tableful of mochi, sushi, ageshushi and manju to mark the Japanese New Year, which is celebrated over three days beginning Jan. 1. Hamada is certainly a keeper of the mochi tradition and took the time to explain how she makes this mealending delight that I’ve always considered more of an appetizer than a dessert. Mochi could be considered a little “bite” of dessert. Not too sweet, mochi is a traditional glutinous rice cake made from sticky rice that’s placed in a wooden container, then patted with water and mashed until it forms a sticky white dumpling. While it’s enjoyed year-round on many occasions, a large batch is typically made before New Year’s and preserved by freezing to eat throughout the winter. Unlike the store-bought mochi—which you might have seen in the frozen dessert section in ice-cream flavors— homemade mochi is a light and chewy treat, with the soft sweetness of rice shining through. To create the delightful packages, rice is first steamed and then hit with a stick or pounded (Hamada says machines do that now). As a young girl, Hamada recalls how all the 58 Devour Utah • March 2018
neighbors would gather to cook the rice in a large cement crock. The sticky rice was then made into a paste, and friends would take turns hitting the rice with a long wooden dowel to create a sheet that would become the exterior wrapping molded around a paste filling made with adzuki, lima or red beans mashed with sugar. Hamada’s mother taught her to make these delights when she was 7 years old. When Hamada married, she and the women in her extended family would gather together three to four days before New Year’s to make the mochi for the celebration. Hamada says that usually one or two of these chewy mochi pieces at most are eaten with tea as dessert after a meal. Obon, another Japanese festival, is celebrated in July or August to honor deceased ancestors. For special occasions such as these, a variety of manju (pronounced mahn-joo)—a Japanese pastry—is prepared. Some are made with mochi, some with flour. Yaki manju is a cookie baked with flour, with a lima-bean filling. Spending time with Hamada reminds me that we’re never too old to cook. While she’s outlived many friends and family members, she can still run circles around those half her age. She continues to help with the Ogden Buddhist Temple’s Bazaar every October, where in years past she taught dancing. She suggests that everyone come to try authentic mochi and manju and expand their knowledge of Japanese food culture. For more information on Ogden Japanese Buddhist Church events, visit their Facebook page or website at OgdenBuddhistChurch.org. ❖
Correction: Aiko Hamada’s first name was misspelled in an earlier version of this story.
1048 E 2100 S Salt Lake City, Utah (801) 528-3275
2020 East 3300 South Millcreek, Utah (385) 202-7236
4536 s highland drive Salt Lake City, Utah (801) 274-0223 S I C I L IA M IAU TA H . C O M
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