vol. 4 no. 6 • june 2018 • seafood
FREE COPY
THE SEAFOOD ISSUE Sustainable Tastes Better p. 22
Expand Your Sushi Repertoire p. 56
Smoked Seafood p. 45
UTAH CRAYFISH BOIL P. 36
Utah Restaurant Association p. 62 Devour Utah • May 2018 1
2 Devour Utah • May 2018
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Devour Utah • May 2018 3
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Catch o’ the Day
Cool Running
Seafood Pioneers
BY AIMEE L. COOK
BY HEATHER MAY
BY CAROLYN CAMPBELL
Lush seafood salads
22 Choose Wisely
Sustainability tastes great
Utah’s fishy business
Market Street Grill
Spread 30 The 32 Things Harbor Seafood We Love & Steak Co.
BY MIKEY SALTAS
It 35 Plate Kobe mussel
Seafood edition BY JERRE WROBLE
shooters
BY DIANE HARTFORD
BY KATE PAPPAS
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40
Cray Cray for Crawdads
Reel Food
BY “NEIGHBOUR DAVE” RICCIO
BY MERRY LYCETT HARRISON
Locally grown mountain lobsters
Herbs for trout
Lobster Rolls 54 Devour This 56 School of Fish 45 Smoke 49 Harmons chef Up your sushi on the Water in Utah? Fish smoking made easy
Re-create the taste of New England
BY KATE PAPPAS
BY JEN HILL
Callyn Harding’s scallop & clam chowder
BY MIKEY SALTAS
BY JEN HILL
66 PESKY PESCATARIAN 4 Devour Utah • May 2018
game at Takashi
Eating fish, for the win BY ELENI SALTAS
Devour Utah • May 2018 5
CONTRIBUTORS STAFF Publisher JOHN SALTAS EDITORIAL Editor Copy Editor Proofreader Contributors
Photographers
JERRE WROBLE SARAH ARNOFF LANCE GUDMUNDSEN CAROLYN CAMPBELL, AIMEE L. COOK, MERRY LYCETT HARRISON, DIANE HARTFORD, JEN HILL, HEATHER MAY, KATE PAPPAS, DAVE RICCIO, ELENI SALTAS, MIKEY SALTAS
Heather May is a long-time Salt Lake City-based reporter who covers food, travel and health for various publications. She has won numerous awards and helped create Devour magazine.
SARAH ARNOFF, JOSH SCHEUERMAN, JOHN TAYLOR
PRODUCTION Art Director Assistant Art Director Graphic Artists
DEREK CARLISLE BRIAN PLUMMER JOSH SCHEUERMAN, SOFIA CIFUENTES VAUGHN ROBISON
BUSINESS/OFFICE Accounting Manager Office Administrators Technical Director
PAULA SALTAS DAVID ADAMSON, ANNA KASER BRYAN MANNOS
“Neighbour Dave” Riccio is a selftaught chef who recently left a 20-year stevedoring career to pursue his passion in food. In addition to creating and marketing a seasoning blend, he will soon be publishing a cookbook with recipes from his Instagram account.
MARKETING Marketing Coordinator
SAMANTHA SMITH
CIRCULATION Circulation Manager
ERIC GRANATO
SALES Vice President, New Business Magazine Advertising Director Newsprint Advertising Director Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives
SAM URIE JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF PETE SALTAS ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER ANNE BAILEY, ALEX MARKHAM, MIEKA SAWATZKI, JEREMIAH SMITH
A Utah native, Kate Pappas enjoys discovering and writing about the local dining scene while also working as a freelance PR and marketing consultant. She has an MPC from Westminster College and lives with her husband in Salt Lake City.
Cover Photo: Alaskan halibut, Harbor Seafood & Steak Co., by Sarah Arnoff Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email Editor@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com
Copperfield Publishing Copyright 2018. All rights reserved
@DevourUtah
6 Devour Utah • May 2018
@DevourUtah
@DevourUtah
After starting out writing about beautiful homes and gardens in Utah, Aimee L. Cook likes to dabble in subjects from food to human interest. A member of the Association of Food Journalists, she now writes for several local publications.
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Devour Utah • May 2018 7
From Our Editor
How I Got Hooked
I
wasn’t always crazy about fish. I was basically force-fed trout upon each triumphant return of my dad and brothers after a day at the lake. To my young taste buds, each bite had a bitter aftertaste, plus there were always errant bones you had to avoid swallowing. My dad never met an underwater creature he didn’t imagine eating. He slurped down oysters on the half shell with abandon and made a point to order exotic filets of shark, bass and catfish when we were at restaurants that served them. He took me as a teen to a Japanese restaurant in San Francisco that served small bites of raw tuna and salmon—my first encounter with sashimi and sushi, long before it was a thing. I tried mine with trepidation, convinced if I were going to die from eating raw fish, so would my dad. We at least wouldn’t die alone. At some point in my early 20s, the seafood switch turned on. Living in southcentral Alaska, I was treated to freshly caught salmon, halibut and crab at dinner tables of many friends and co-workers. Seafood consumption made up our summer life: fishing for it, cleaning it, cooking it and smoking it. When I moved to SLC, I worried I’d miss my fish. But it turns out, not so much. SLC is teeming with fresh fish—from fast-food and food trucks to sushi bars and fine dining. Local cooks and chefs can buy their own fresh catches flown in daily at fish markets and grocery stores. And then there’s still good old Utah trout, for which I’ve finally developed a taste (it’s all about pre-soaking and seasoning). For this issue of Devour, we could barely contain our enthusiasm for seafood. Not only do we highlight exquisite offerings from eateries specializing in seafood cuisine, but we feature recipes on how to cook bisques, chowders, crawdaddy boils and trout dishes. New to our pages this month, writer Kate Pappas explores the fish-smoking process and delves into the sensitive topic of ocean sustainability. Another newcomer, “Neighbour Dave” Riccio, writes about how to catch and cook local crayfish. Returning to our pages, former Devour editor Heather May looks at the business of getting fresh catches to Utah. Sometimes, we don’t appreciate the complex logistics required for tasty seafood to arrive on our plates. Utah may be landlocked, but we do boast the remnant of an ancient ocean adjacent to our capital city. We have salt in our name and bones. It doesn’t seem all that strange that seafood would be resoundingly popular here, especially if you can get past that first taste of lake trout. Sea urchin, anyone? Monkfish liver? We got you covered. ❖
SAMANTHA KELM
—Jerre Wroble
8 Devour Utah • May 2018
Devour Utah • May 2018 9
Fab Four
Fresh Catch Seafood and healthy greens hook up for a memorable meal BY AIMEE L. COOK
10 Devour Utah • May 2018
Seafood Louie at Market Street Grill
COURTESY MARKET STREET GRILL
S
eafood is the belle of the ball in this issue, and there are few better ways to let it shine than topping a stack of cool, crisp greens. We searched for eateries that offer seafood salads as an actual menu item—not just as an optional add-on to a house salad. These restaurants go to lengths to ensure that the greens and fish are fresh and fantastic, allowing the distinctive flavor of seafood to thrill your taste buds.
DEREK CARLISLE
Grilled Salmon Salad at Red Butte Café
Seafood Louie
Grilled Salmon Salad
Market Street Grill Multiple Locations MarketStreetGrill.com
Red Butte Café 1414 S. Foothill Drive., SLC 801-581-9498 TheRedButteCafe.com
Arguably the first seafood salad to be considered a meal, early versions were topped with crab, hence the name Crab Louie, the “king of salads.” The Market Street Grill Seafood Louie features crisp mixed greens, tomato wedges, slices of avocado, beets and bell peppers, hardboiled egg, asparagus spears, olives and capers. To that base, you can add Mexican shrimp ($26), Alaska snow crab ($26), lump crab ($27) or wild sockeye salmon ($21). The louie dressing is a classic Thousand Island, served on the side so you can use it as a dip, or pour it on.
Red Butte Café’s hearty grilled salmon salad ($13.50) is one of the most popular items on its menu. Not only has executive chef Rich Parrent replaced traditional greens with shredded kale, but he’s added artichoke tapenade as a topper to the grilled salmon. Special care goes into prepping the kale: After it is shredded, it’s crushed in a bowl with a dressing made of lemon, garlic, olive oil and honey, which further tenderizes the greens. Parmesan crisps and radishes round out the flavors with a savory crunch, while corn adds texture and sweetness.
Devour Utah • May 2018 11
“DO NOT MAKE A STINGY SANDWICH; PILE THE COLD CUTS HIGH; SO YOU SHOULD SEE SALAMI COMING THROUGH THE RYE.” - ALLAN SHERMAN
TONA tonarestaurant.com SUSHI BAR AND GRILL 2013 - 2018
BOSS 2018
Best Odgen Restaurant
2015 - 2017
2012 - 2017
210 25th Street, Ogden • (801) 622-8662 • facebook.com/tonasushi
12 Devour Utah • May 2018
2005 E. 2700 SOUTH, SLC FELDMANSDELI.COM @ FELDMANSDELI OPEN TUES - SAT TO GO ORDERS: (801) 906-0369
20 1 7
Fab Four
Seafood Cobb
As a restaurant specializing in seafood, Current’s Seafood Cobb ($23) is a top draw that provides a sampling of shellfish while remaining light but satisfying. Piledhigh mixed greens are surrounded by wild-caught North Atlantic red crab, a tender pan-seared scallop and jumbo aquaculture shrimp poached in classic court-bouillon. The dressing is a housemade avocado ranch made from Haas avocados, buttermilk, champagne vinegar and fresh herbs—the perfect sauce for this salad, allowing the flavors of the sea to be the star.
Seafood Cobb at Current Fish & Oyster
NATE EVANS
Current Fish & Oyster 279 E. 300 South, SLC 801-326-3474 CurrentFishAndOyster.com
High West Saloon’s offerings not only have a Western flair but are designed to be paired with whiskey. The High West trout salad ($22) achieves that goal and consistently receives rave reviews, proof that well-prepared freshwater fish can be anything but ordinary. The trout is pan-fried, which adds crispness to each warm, tender and flakey bite. The fillet is topped with a swirl of housemade remoulade sauce and plated on a bed of mountain greens. Shaved fennel, sweet apple and slices of housepickled carrots give it added color and cruch. Delicious! ❖ High West Saloon 703 Park Ave., Park City 435-649-8300 HighWest.com
Trout Salad at High West Saloon
DEREK CARLISLE
Trout Salad
Devour Utah • May 2018 13
The Seafood Issue
COOL RUNNING How fish from the deep blue sea wind up on your plate in Utah BY HEATHER MAY
PHOTOS BY JOSH SCHEUERMAN
O
n the second Wednesday in April, an employee of Dawnfresh Seafoods in Scotland cast a net into Farm No. 73 and brought up shimmering, silvery trout weighing about 12 pounds each. Raised in the brackish waters of the Scottish Highlands—in Loch Etive, to be exact, where the salt water from the sea and the fresh water off the Ben Cruachan mountain meet—the trout was what owner and executive chef Fred Moesinger at the Salt Lake City Italian restaurant Caffé Molise had been seeking. “Just like a musician gets tired of playing the same old song at his concert, we get tired of serving the same fish,” Moesinger says, noting that he usually serves salmon, halibut or tuna. “Whenever we can get something new and fresh, we kind of jump at the chance.” The loch trout were gutted in Scotland and then flown 11 hours fresh, but on ice, to Los Angeles. From there, a truck hired by Ocean Beauty Seafoods loaded and drove the trout to a Salt Lake City warehouse on 900 West and 1900 South. There, they were deboned and filleted by a cut artist. One week and one day after they were harvested, they were delivered to Caffé Molise. The restaurant’s fish of the day was then branded as Scottish trout.
14 Devour Utah • May 2018
Silent Partner
Ocean Beauty Seafoods doesn’t catch the fish—or cook it or serve it. Unseen to diners, the company is nevertheless integral: It finds the farms, buys wild fish from the fishmongers at auction, arranges transportation across the ocean, drives the fish from the Seattle, Los Angeles or Salt Lake City airports to its warehouses and processes the fish before delivering it to restaurants. The SLC branch—one of seven Ocean Beauty processing and distribution centers in the Western United States—is in a nondescript warehouse that smells like fish and where shared offices are decorated with maps of Alaskan fisheries and posters extolling fish, like the one declaring Alaskan halibut “America’s favorite steak.” “At one point, George Harrison [was asked] what he was famous for and [The Beatles’ lead guitarist] says, ‘As long as I get my money, I don’t care what I’m famous for.’ “We’re kind of like that silent partner,” says Jeff Cooke, Ocean Beauty general manager and buyer in Salt Lake City. When he started in 1989, the same year Ocean Beauty entered the Utah market after buying out another processor, Utahns mainly ate halibut. In fact, the state had long been the country’s largest halibut market. “Back in the old days, the ’50s and the ’60s, trains that would carry halibut [from the Northwest], they weren’t refrigerated. They just had ice on the fish. By the time it got to Utah, the ice was just about melted so whatever was left was offloaded in Utah at a discount,” Cooke says. Later, Market Street Grill was the only seafood restaurant of note. “Now, almost every fine dining we do business with carries two, three, even four items of fish,” Cooke says. “And everybody sells shrimp.” He estimates that Ocean Beauty now owns about 60 percent of the Utah fish market. Half their business is supplying grocers including Harmons and Associated Foods stores. The other half caters to a wide range of restaurants, from the fish-focused seafood buffet at Deer Valley, Current, Harbor Seafood & Steak and Kimi’s Chop and Oyster House, to the downtown Cheesecake Factory, Hoppers Grill & Brewing Co. and the Little and Grand America hotels. In the refrigerated part of the Ocean Beauty warehouse, shelves and pallets are stacked with boxes of fish sitting in wet ice or surrounded by small gel ice packs. Cooke prefers they arrive gutted but bone-in because they stay fresh longer. Three men wearing blue rubber gloves, yellow protective arm sleeves and hoodies to keep warm fillet the fish before they are delivered by truck to the restaurants. On a recent day, a pallet of 10 boxes of wild halibut had just been delivered; a line of open blue bins held the cherry red slabs of cut Bigeye tuna from Hawaii and Yellowfin tuna from the Maldives that were delivered within the prior days. Another area housed boxes of live mussels and oysters. A huge tank of water was filled with thawing Sablefish. “Our business is booming,” Cooke says. The Utah office generates $16 million in sales, which translates to about 3 million pounds of seafood a year, he says. Devour Utah • May 2018 15
The Seafood Issue
CAFFE MOLISE EXECUTIVE CHEF FRED MOESINGER, LEFT, SERVING UP A PLATE OF SCOTTISH TROUT
Airlines are key
Ocean Beauty’s leading seller is salmon, both farmed and wild, because of the company’s connections in Alaska. It owns six processing plants in the northernmost state and “a lot of quota” comes out of Bristol Bay, which is home to the world’s largest sockeye salmon fishery. But demand for variety has soared, and sales of fish from Hawaii now match those from Alaska. Cooke’s clients have until noon to order Hawaiian fish—tuna, swordfish, escolar, mako shark—that was brought to auction earlier that morning. The fish arrives by plane in Salt Lake City by 8 a.m. the next day. He says the boat Seventh Star recently caught ahi tuna that was auctioned on a Monday and arrived in Utah the next day. It was delivered to the Cheesecake Factory that Friday. Caffé Molise chef Moesinger says he picks from what Ocean Beauty has brought in to keep specials at the restaurant seasonal. But he can also ask Ocean Beauty to find particular seafood, like the time a company attending Outdoor Retailer held a crawfish boil at the restaurant or when a longtime customer wanted mackerel. The restaurant receives fish three to four days a week. 16 Devour Utah • May 2018
Ryan Estel, chef of Deer Valley’s seafood buffet—open every day during the ski season in the Snow Park Lodge— says he can serve fish within four to five days of it being caught. The fish are tagged, or the boxes they come in are labeled, so he knows precisely what boat it was caught from and what day it was processed. Ocean Beauty delivers an order nearly every day during the buffet season to cover the several hundred pounds of fish that are eaten each week, from 50 dozen oysters and 30 pounds of mussels a night, to 180 pounds of salmon a week for the carvery. “It comes in on an AC truck in boxes and packed in ice with ice packs. I can even text [Ocean Beauty] at 8 a.m. and have it come up in four to five hours,” Estel says. When he first started working in Park City, he wondered how seafood could be good in the middle of the mountains in the winter. “You know what?” he says, “I’ve worked in Hilton Head, S.C. I’ve worked in southern California, and the quality that we’re getting is just as good.” He attributes the success to everyone in the process: “The fishermen who are out there, rain or shine. The process it takes for them to get the fish packed in ice on the boat, and they auction it off to the mongers. They get it, and they send it off. And, obviously, the transportation. That, and the
Devour Utah • May 2018 17
The Seafood Issue UNSEEN TO DINERS, OCEAN BEAUTY BUYS AND TRANSPORTS FISH TO ITS WAREHOUSES, THEN PROCESSES THE FISH BEFORE DELIVERING IT TO RESTAURANTS.
honesty of the people you’re getting the fish from.” Harmons has also seen demand leap. The stores sell up to 150,000 pounds and $1.2 million worth of seafood every three months, says Chris Smith, the chain’s meat and seafood sales director. “People seem to have more money to spend on quality products like seafood,” Smith says. The vast majority of what they’re buying—80 percent—is shrimp and salmon. Smith says he buys crab and shrimp on his own, including wild shrimp from the Gulf of Mexico. The season runs from August to about February. Smith buys it raw, peeled, deveined and frozen without any added preservatives, he says, so that it only lasts one week. By comparison, preserved frozen fish—with the added sodium tripolyphosphate—would sit for six months, he notes. The Harmons staff cooks the shrimp before selling it as Wild Colossal Gulf-Steamed Shrimp, for $24.99 a pound on a recent day. Most of the other fish found in Harmons’ cases are ordered through Ocean Beauty, including swordfish and ahi tuna from Hawaii, two times a week. Even fish from Iceland—wild true cod fillets were recently
18 Devour Utah • May 2018
on display—and the farmed salmon from Chile that arrives two or three times a week can be sold within days of being processed, Smith says. “It’s expensive but it’s worth it.” The fresh fish won’t be frozen, he adds. “We don’t want to flash freeze. Every time you freeze it, it pulls moisture out of the meat.” The entry of Alaskan Airlines into Salt Lake City International Airport “has helped us immensely,” Smith says. “A lot of processors in Alaska fly to Seattle and Salt Lake City on the day it’s processed. We can literally have it a day or two later. “People don’t think it’s possible to get fresh seafood in Utah, but it certainly is. Absolutely.” But that doesn’t mean it’s easy. Airlines are key, but they aren’t foolproof, Cooke notes. They can be delayed. He prefers to truck the fish from L.A. or Seattle because it’s a more controlled environment. And then there’s weather. For example, when halibut was recently difficult to get because of bad weather in the Pacific Northwest, Cooke brought in fresh Icelandic cod. “There’s no guarantee you’re going to catch a fish,” Smith adds. “There’s a lot of opportunities for it to fail. When it all comes together, it’s a real win-win.” ❖
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Devour Utah • May 2018 19
The Seafood Issue
Pretty Good
COURTESY MARKET STREET GRILL
A photo from the early days: Tom Guinney, left, a founder of Market Street Grill
20 Devour Utah • May 2018
d Chowder T
he first Market Street Grill and Oyster Bar opened in downtown Salt Lake City on Oct. 31, 1980. When Tom Guinney and business partners John Williams and Tom Sieg decided to start the restaurant, there was no question that it would be a seafood venture. Guinney had worked in several California seafood restaurants and became a corporate chef at age 24. Feeling that California real estate had grown too expensive, he was excited to bring his expertise to Salt Lake City. “I thought Utah was the perfect place to grow a business,” he says. Eventually, the trio formed Gastronomy Inc. and began adding restaurants in Cottonwood Heights, West Jordan and Salt Lake City International Airport. They also operated the New Yorker fine-dining eatery as well as seafood markets and the Market Street Broiler located near the University of Utah until it was sold in 2014. In the early days, Guinney reported in at 6 a.m., worked the broiler station as a line cook, went home in the afternoons for a quick nap and then came back as closing manager. Guinney can still recite the recipes for tartar sauce, cocktail sauce and clam chowder he brought with him from California in a worn, stain-covered, 6-by-8-inch binder. His recipes were served the first night and remain mainstays in Gastronomy restaurants today. Along with Guinney’s soup and sauce formulas, the trio became seafood pioneers who brought the first fresh seafood to Salt Lake City. In the beginning, following airline deregulation, Western Airlines flew in 300-pound containers of fresh seafood three or four times a week. “The community had never seen anything like it,” Guinney recalls. “We would get it, cut it and a couple of days later get more.” Seafood such as Mexican white shrimp and king crab— flash frozen when caught—was shipped and stored at Valley Storage. “We would pick that up once or twice a day,” says purchasing director Ty Frederickson, who for 30 years has been tasked with buying all the fresh fish for Gastronomy. “There was no Costco or Whole Foods back then. Any fish we wanted we had to be able to find and bring in ourselves.” Another longtime Gastronomy employee, Catherine Burns, now its human-resources director, explains that such perishable food “is in the highest-risk category when it comes to the health department.” Everyone was trained in food safety, she says, and needed to be on top of refrigeration at all times, to be sure the fish in the drawers was kept at a constant temperature. Was the idea of fresh fish itself risky? “Yes, we could have
How Market Street Grill got Utahns hooked on seafood By Carolyn Campbell
gone broke in the first nine months—the first six!” Guinney says. Still, customers lined up outside the door at 5 p.m. that first night. Bringing in their own fish allowed Gastronomy to be the first Utah establishment to offer “fresh salmon, fresh halibut, beautiful crab legs and Australian lobster tail,” Frederickson says. Fish and chips, seafood Florentine, the fisherman’s platter and Alaskan king crab legs were popular entrées in the beginning. “We pretty much taught Utah to eat halibut. Its mild, pleasing texture makes it an easy-eating fish,” Frederickson says. “Today, [Utahns] eat 5 percent of all the halibut in the world.” Utah gets fish from both the East and West coasts as well as the Gulf, Frederickson says. “In the summer, we have wild salmon, and there is Atlantic salmon year-round.” In the beginning, Market Street Grill offered 10 kinds of seafood a week—the number is now up to 50. On any given day, diners in landlocked Utah can choose fresh North American-caught fish as well as John Dory from New Zealand, swordfish, ahi tuna and scallops. Oysters are becoming increasingly popular by the month. Gastronomy sells between 600,000 and 700,000 oysters annually. “They are the fastest growing segment of our industry,” Frederickson says. “We always offer four kinds of oysters. People call them the ‘fourth course.’” The “early-bird special” concept was one that Guinney brought with him from Charlie Brown’s restaurant in Burlingame, Calif. It was an instant hit in Salt Lake City and remains popular today. “You would get a slice of prime rib, salad, bread, potatoes and Häagen-Dazs ice cream,” Guinney says. “Today, you can choose a wonderful piece of salmon or the prime rib.” Gastronomy has partnered with Pacific Seafood for nearly 30 years, a company that not only supplies fresh wild-caught North American fish (utilizing traditional fishing methods such as dip-netting) but works with local communities and families to ensure the fish can get to market. Almost 38 years have passed since the restaurant opened its doors and gave the Wasatch Front a taste of truly fresh seafood. Williams and Sieg have since passed away, leaving the 70-year-old Guinney at the helm. And he shows no signs of letting up any time soon. “I take pride in the fact that this is an extraordinary place to work,” Guinney says,. “There are 500 employees—many with husbands and wives and children. It’s safe, and they make money.” ❖ Devour Utah • May 2018 21
The Seafood Issue
Ocean
Options Enjoy the great taste of sustainable seafood BY KATE PAPPAS
hile landlocked Utah is fortunate to have diverse seafood offerings, not all fish we consume is harvested with the health of species (and the ocean) in mind. As consumers, it’s unpleasant be part of the “demand” equation that harms a species. More and more consumers are willing to ask: Where did this fish come from? Seafood sustainability can be a loaded and confusing term, but the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch (SeafoodWatch.org) program serves as a valuable resource, with comprehensive and easy-to-follow sustainability recommendations that are routinely updated. And, for ease, you can even find the “Best Choice” and “Good Alternative” recommendations at local Seafood Watch-
partnering grocery stores around town, at Harmons Neighborhood Grocer and Whole Foods Market. Not only does supporting sustainability bring relief to the environment, but it can turn any dining experience into a feel-good affair. And fortunately, many local establishments have already done their sustainability homework, keeping an eye on these recommendations and creating menu items as consciously sustainable as they are delicious to eat. Read on for four of the most sustainable seafood choices, along with outstanding local establishments that prepare them. In an effort to encourage you to cook sustainable catches at home, the chefs offer their expert tips along with suggested pairings.
Q uesti ons for your fishmonger Where did this fish come from? (It’s better to buy fish caught or farmed in the U.S. over other countries)
Was it caught or farmed in Utah? (It’s always better to choose local species over those shipped in.)
22 Devour Utah • May 2018
How was it caught? (Did harvesting it cause damage to the habitat or other fish species?)
Was it farmed or wild-caught? (Wild-caught is best, unless it was farmed sustainably in the U.S.)
Dive in!
If farmed, is it: tilapia, shrimp, bass, trout or Arctic char that’s raised in the U.S. in recirculating systems?
Is this fish tied to contaminants such as mercury, PCBs, antibiotics, etc.?
S callops
Maine scallops
Of the 18 varieties of scallops rated by Seafood Watch, 15 are listed as a “Best Choice”—making scallops almost always a safe bet for ordering on the menu or at the seafood counter. Must-try dish: Since opening in 2014, Harbor Seafood & Steak Co. has established itself as a destination for fresh, delicious and sustainable seafood. Among the tasty offerings are the wild-caught Maine scallops, the most popular dish on the menu. Chef Justin Jacobsen says the entrée is distinguished by using giant dry-packed scallops as opposed to the more common wet-packed scallops. The scallops, seared to perfection, are sweet, plump and served alongside roasted garlic mash and buttery warm golden beets with crispy prosciutto. Like all Maine scallops, these are heavily regulated to sustainability standards by Maine’s Department of Marine Resources. Harbor is the only restaurant in Utah that prepares this type of scallops, which happen to be the same type featured at the highly acclaimed (and sustainable) restaurant Sage at the Aria resort in Las Vegas. Chef’s tips for scallops: • Start with a heavy-duty aluminum frying pan on high heat and add a 90/10 canola/ olive oil blend to achieve a high smoke point. Add enough oil for the scallops to be barely submerged. • Add the scallops around the outside of the pan to distribute the heat evenly, then turn down the heat to medium high and let them sear until deeply caramelized. • Flip them over, add a little more oil, and turn the heat back to high to start the process over. Jacobsen prefers his scallops medium-rare to medium—approximately 115 to 125 degrees.
SARAH ARNOFF
Enjoy it with: buttery, creamy sides, since the seafood contains no fat and is all muscle. Scallops will also pair well with any seasonal vegetable. Harbor Seafood & Steak Co. 2302 Parleys Way, SLC 801-466-9827 HarborSLC.com Devour Utah • May 2018 23
The Seafood Issue
DEREK CARLISLE
Antonia Tuna Sandwich
Albacore Tuna
When it comes to tuna, Seafood Watch recommends poleand-line-caught albacore or white tuna as the best, most sustainable choice. Must-try sandwich: Since 1993, Liberty Heights Fresh has led the local food scene with sustainable and authentic offerings. Owner Steven Rosenberg believes in seeking out foods that align with his culinary mission—a principle that eventually led to the creation of the mighty Antonia Tuna Sandwich. The tuna featured in the sandwich is a type of albacore— but don’t call it that. While not caught in the United States, the Bonito del Norte is a premium tuna from the Cantabrian Sea in Basque country, where, years ago, Rosenberg watched from the shore as fishermen caught the sought-after fish using traditional pole-and-line fishing techniques. After 24 Devour Utah • May 2018
tasting the tuna for himself, he knew he had to carry it in his market. The mayo-free tuna-salad sandwich, named after a former employee who created it, includes fennel, celery, red onion and capers, and is served on an Eva’s Bakery baguette. In addition to the sandwich, you can purchase the tuna salad and jars of the Arroyabe-brand tuna in store year-round. Enjoy it with: Bonito del Norte—or other canned albacore tuna—pairs well with crackers or toast and simple garnishes like chopped peppers or onions. If making a tuna salad, try opting for a dressing made from good vinegar and extra virgin olive oil rather than mayonnaise. Liberty Heights Fresh 1290 S. 1100 East, SLC 801-583-7374 LibertyHeightsFresh.com
Patio Pages
New Summer Menu now available
OPEN
365
DAYS A YEAR
326 S. West Temple (in the heart of downtown) For Reservations: 801-819-7565
Join the Cannella family in celebrating
40 years!
JUNE 19TH FROM 11AM - 1PM We will offer our famous Spaghetti dinner at it’s original price $2 35
204 E. 500 S. SLC | 801.355.8518 | cannellas.com Devour Utah • May 2018 25
The Seafood Issue
DEREK CARLISLE
Pacific Salmon
Paci fic S almon
Of the many salmon varieties rated by Seafood Watch, Pacific salmon is one of the best. Look for wild-caught salmon in the summer months, while sustainable farm-raised salmon can be found year-round. Must-try dish: Kimi’s Chop & Oyster House is a gem on the local seafood scene, with menu offerings from the namesake oysters to crab cakes as delicious as they are sustainable. Having lived in Sweden for 10 years, owner Kimi Eklund has drawn upon inspiration of simple, fresh ingredients—not to mention a modern and gorgeous décor—in her newest, now 4-year-old restaurant. The Pacific salmon entrée is a standout on Eklund’s menu. Perfectly seared and baked, the salmon is surrounded by a bed of seasonal vegetables and accentuated with a sweetchile sauce starring whole-roasted tomatoes, shrimp and 26 Devour Utah • May 2018
bacon. The salmon is sustainably farm-raised, and Eklund anticipates offering wild-caught Alaskan salmon for the summer months, as she’s done in previous years. Chef’s tips for salmon: • Pan-sear the salmon to crispy with desired flavors and seasoning. • Bake for several minutes afterward to cook to mediumrare (Eklund’s preference), or desired temperature. (Temperature could range from 350-400 degrees for 10 or more minutes.) Enjoy it with: herbs that provide a light balance to the fish, like dill, thyme and tarragon. Also pairs well with vegetables like asparagus, zucchini and squash. Kimi’s Chop & Oyster House 2155 S. Highland Drive, SLC 801-946-2079 KimisHouse.com
Patio Pages
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Mon-Wed 9am-6pm • Thurs-Sat 9am-9pm
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Join us f or 9:30am Sunday Brunch! to 2 801-742 pm with Live Ja -35 zz Little Co 00 altalodge.co ttonwood m Canyon Alta Devour Utah • May 2018 27
The Seafood Issue
KATE PAPPAS BECKERMAN
Alaskan Black Cod
B lack Cod
While there are several types of cod with varying ratings, Seafood Watch considers black cod caught in Alaska and the Northwest region a “Best Choice.” Must-try dish: Since opening in 2014, owner and chef Tyler Stokes has sought to make Provisions a go-to dining experience with a focus on organic and responsibly farmed ingredients. And considering the ever-changing, seasonally inspired and sustainable dishes on the menu, Stokes has definitely made his case. He describes the seafood offerings on the menu as the “hottest ticket,” and the caramelized Alaskan black cod is one of the more unforgettable dishes. The buttery cod, which stays moist and is able to hold onto marinades well, is first seared and then cooked in the oven, served alongside
28 Devour Utah • May 2018
complementary parsnip, radicchio and blood orange. Chef’s tips for cod: • Marinate cod with soy or miso to help develop caramelization during the cooking process. • Pan-sear the cod until golden brown. • Roast it in the oven after searing until flakey (times and temperatures will vary), but cod is forgiving and can be cooked longer than other fish. Enjoy it with: Cod pairs well with Asian, strong flavors like curry, soy, miso, red wine and olives. Provisions 3364 S. 2300 East, SLC 801-410-4046 SLCProvisions.com
Patio Pages
POSTER DESIGN BY: EVAN MURPHY
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Modern Cuisine . Wine . Cocktails 237 South 400 West · Salt Lake City 801.935.4431 · www.eatpallet.com Monday-Saturday · Dinner 5:00pm-Close Devour Utah • May 2018 29
Spread the
Harbor Seafood & Steak Co.
ALASKAN HALIBUT 30 Devour Utah • May 2018
The Spread
J
ourneying up Parleys Way, the anchor signage of Harbor Seafood & Steak Co. catches the eye—reminiscent of a seafood eatery along San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf. But instead of overlooking Frisco bay, you’re greeted by majestic views of the Wasatch mountains—not a bad tradeoff. When owners Randall Curtis and Taylor Jacobsen opened the doors to Harbor Seafood & Steak Co. in 2014, they hoped to connect with their Sugar House neighbors and rejuvenate the restaurant scene below Foothill Drive. Occupying the former Rino’s Italian Restaurant location, Harbor retained Rino’s basic structure but infused it with a clean, snappy interior. Instead of the old pink dining room, there are modern touches of white, wood and nautical motifs—what you’d expect with a seafood eatery. The eclectic music adds to the contemporary ambiance. Upon entering, you’re greeted by a welcoming staff where you have a choice of eating inside on cushioned seating near a glass-enclosed kitchen or, in the summer, on the spacious vine-covered patio with a view of the valley. Twinkling lights strung endto-end on the patio eaves offer a romantic atmosphere that’s second to none. Chef Justin Jacobsen’s menu runs the gamut of fresh seafood dishes including crab cakes, scallops and ahi tuna as well as a melt-in-your-mouth wagyu beef steaks, burgers and ribs. The ever-popular clam chowder ($7-$9) is a creamy blend of Maine clams, mirepoix and toasted radish accompanied by a sourdough roll. The best way to order the entrées is to split them family style. The fresh Alaskan halibut ($41) is cast-iron seared and topped with roasted cauliflower and pistachios, pancetta, potatoes and pineapplecitrus chutney. Even with the plentiful accompaniments, the fish isn’t overpowered and is seared precisely—not too dry nor chewy. ❖
Harbor’s spacious patio offers mountain and city views
Harbor co-owner Taylor Jacobsen, left, and chef Justin Jacobsen
Harbor Seafood & Steak Co. 2302 Parleys Way, SLC 801-466-9827 HarborSLC.com —By Mikey Saltas Photos by Sarah Arnoff
Harbor’s modern look and wood surfaces Devour Utah • May 2018 31
Tozai Living Jewel Sake What to drink with your sushi? Sake, naturally—but which one? This vibrant medium-bodied sake is a premium junmai (made from rice, water, yeast and koji—and no added alcohol) and features a higher acidity level. As such, it balances well with spicy dishes and high-protein fish such as sea bass. Look for aromas of dough and Asian pear along with a refreshing melon finish. Sip at room temperature— not hot. Utah State Liquor Stores, 720 ml, $18.95
1
Without a Doubt: The Cook’s 2 Fish Essential Companion by Rick Moonen and Roy Finamore With more than 250 seafood recipes, Fish Without a Doubt delves into nearly every possible cooking technique from poaching to sautéing to grilling. Novices suffering from “pescaphobia” can learn from photos on how to clean, fillet and scale a fish. No endangered fish are included in the book. Order it from: The King’s English Bookstore, 1511 S. 1500 East, SLC, 801-484-9100, KingsEnglish.com, hardcover, $35. Gourmet 7-inch Fish Fillet 3 Wüsthof Knife With Sheath Designed by U.S. fishing experts, made in Solingen, Germany (“The Cutlery Capital of the World”), this knife is razorsharp, thin and flexible, the perfect tool to clean and bone your small-tomedium size catches. Manufactured from one piece of steel, it features a laser-cut stamped blade, synthetic handle and a leather sheath (and can be used at the river, and in the kitchen). It’s a great Father’s Day gift. Orson H. Gygi Co., 3500 S. 300 West, SLC, 801268-3316, Gygi.com, $69.99. Good Grips Fish Turner 4 OXO Fish turners made Buzzfeed’s 16 Truly Useful Tools, and this oversize spatula lets you lift, flip and transfer delicate fish fillets, whole fish, crab cakes and more (pancakes, warm cookies, burgers and eggs). The beveled edge slides under delicate foods while the slotted head drains grease and cooking liquids. Dishwasher safe. Orson H. Gygi Co., 3500 S. 300 West, SLC, 801268-3316, Gygi.com $12.99
32 Devour Utah • May 2018
Things We Love
THINGS WE LOVE
LOVE
3
BY JERRE WROBLE
4
1 5
Cedar Grilling Planks 5 Cameron Soak cedar planks in water for a half hour, place your fish on the plank, then place plank on preheated barbecue grill and cover. Leave the fish to roast slowly as it bastes in its juices. No fats or oils are needed because the moist plank keeps food juicy. The wood heats up and begins to burn slightly, imparting a subtle smoky flavor to the fish. Planks can be used two or three times. Comes with instructions and seven recipes. Orson H. Gygi Co., 3500 S. 300 West, SLC, 801268-3316, Gygi.com, pack of four, $15.99. â?–
2 Devour Utah • May 2018 33
Absolutely Fabulous.
Lunch Dinner Cocktails
18 MARKET STREET 801.519.9595
Celebrate Diversity
34 Devour Utah • May 2018
Plate It
Mussel Shooters
Kobe Japanese Cuisine BY DIANE HARTFORD
PHOTO BY SARAH ARNOFF
T
he mussel shooters here are the perfect starter to your sushi or ramen meal. Chef/ owner Mike Fukumitsu boasts a 20-year career as a Japanese chef in Utah and Japan, including a long stint as a sushi chef for Kyoto Japanese Restaurant. Five years ago, he purchased Kobe Japanese Cuisine in the Olympic Hills Mall and has been serving up melt-in-your mouth sushi and made-from-scratch ramen ever since. It takes more of a slurp than a bite to consume the entire contents of each half-shell mussel in one glorious
mouthful. The appetizer, at $5.95, includes two shooters filled with a mixture of chopped green-lipped mussels marinated in soy sauce, sesame oil, citrusy ponzu and a kick of spices. It’s topped with tobiko (flying-fish roe) and green onions that add crunch and freshness, and the yolk of a raw quail egg nestled in each shooter coats the entire bite with velvety richness. ❖
Kobe Japanese Cuisine 3947 S. Wasatch Blvd., SLC 801-277-2928 Facebook.com/KobeJapaneseRestaurant
Devour Utah • May 2018 35
Seafood Issue
JOHN TAYLOR
Cray Cray for
A
sk someone if it’s possible to catch fresh shellfish here in Utah, and they’d likely answer, “You’re crazy! What kind of shellfish could possibly be found in our land-locked high desert?” But what about the humble crawfish? You might have heard them called by other names such as crayfish, mudbugs, crawdads, crawdaddies, mountain lobster, freshwater lobster or even yabbies. It really doesn’t matter what you call them. To borrow from the Bard: “A crawfish by any other name would taste as sweet.” Many who’ve heard of these tasty morsels associate them exclusively with New Orleans, but I am here to tell you that many Utah lakes abound with crawfish. What? You’ve never tasted them before? You want to know exactly how something with an unappealing nickname such as “mudbug” living in a freshwater mountain lake is considered seafood? Well, these little critters are like a mix between lobster, crab and shrimp. They taste like lobster, are not quite as sweet as crab and are slightly chewier than shrimp. Not only are they easy to catch and delicious to eat, but crawfish fishing makes for a great time outdoors enjoying our pristine scenery, too! 36 Devour Utah • May 2018
Where, when & how much The optimal time of year to catch crawdads in Utah is August through October, though you can catch them other times of the year. As to where, check with the Division of Wildlife Resources, agricultural extension agents, fishing supply stores or even Google, but my favorite is Strawberry Reservoir. An entrance fee is charged but it includes established cleaning stations, running water and campsites with fire rings (some free, some you’ll pay extra for). Fishing licenses are required for any fisher 12 or over. If you don’t need a year-long pass, adults can buy a three-day license for $16. There is currently no limit on the number of crawfish you can catch or possess. Here is a short list of what you will need: • fishing line • bait (cooked chicken) • long-handled net (with small mesh to prevent escape) • ice chest and ice • towels to keep captured crawfish from harming one another
Crawdads
Known as “mountain lobster” or crayfish, these tiny crustaceans are a Utah delicacy. By “Neighbour Dave” Riccio
if you approach them from the front. You will probably sweep up the bait as well, and that’s OK. Just throw it back into the water after you empty the net. Grabbing crawfish is easy. Approach them from the rear and pick them up just behind the head and claws. It will be impossible for them to pinch you. If you do get pinched, don’t worry, it won’t hurt too much. It’s more of a surprise than any kind of injury. Return crawfish under 2 inches back into the water and store the keepers (around 4 inches long) in your ice chest. Keep them cool and dry (open the drain in your ice chest to prevent melted ice from pooling). Create layers using towels or gunnysacks to keep them from harming each other. Also, place ice in between the cloth layers so it doesn’t touch the crawfish.
YOU CAN CATCH CRAYFISH AT ANY NUMBER OF UTAH RESERVOIRS
BEN BENNETT
Where to cook Utah law prohibits transporting live crawfish. I find it best to cook them on site and thus avoid the hassle and time needed to dispatch each crawfish individually prior to transporting them. However, once cooked, you can transport them as desired (but let’s be honest, if you do things right, you probably won’t have any leftovers). Before cooking, wash and rinse the crawfish at least four times in fresh water, thoroughly scrubbing grit and mud with nylon-bristled brush. Pinch, twist and pull off the top middle fin on the tail to de-vein crawfish. (See recipe on p. 39)
The best location along the shore to set your baits are open areas with rocky, sandy or muddy bottoms. Avoid weedy areas (it makes catching them harder). You can buy traps made just for crawfish, or you can go with a more hands-on setup (which I think is much more fun, especially if you brought the kids along for the adventure). Tightly tie one end of ordinary fishing line to the bone of a piece of cooked chicken. Tie the other end of the fishing line to a rock or a stake that you can drive into the ground (so you don’t lose your line). Toss the chicken about 5 feet out into the water, or as far as your net can reach. You can catch your fill more quickly by repeating this setup with a couple of more lines, keeping each bait set at least 20 feet apart on the shoreline (to avoid cloudy water reducing visibility). Check each set of bait. If the bait has gathered crawfish, catch them using the net in a quick sweeping motion. It’s best to bring the net in from behind them as they will scatter
BEN BENNETT
How to catch crawfish
Devour Utah • May 2018 37
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38 Devour Utah • May 2018
BEN BENNETT
Crawfish Boil Recipe (continued from p.37) Fill a large pot with about 5 gallons of water (for 35 pounds of crawfish). Allow about 25 crawfish per person.
Add to water 2 ½ cups Kosher salt 3 tablespoons garlic powder 3 tablespoons black pepper 4 tablespoons cayenne 3 tablespoons Italian dried herbs 2 tablespoons paprika 1.5 tablespoons dill seeds whole 1 tablespoon whole fennel seeds whole 1 tablespoon dry thyme 1 tablespoon dry mustard Cover & bring to a boil.
place the following into strainer basket 3 2 2 4 5
pounds small red potatoes (cut larger ones in half) large white onions, halved & sliced ½ inch thick garlic bulbs, unpeeled and broken out of bulb ears of corn, shucked and cut into thirds Andouille sausages, cut into 1 inch pieces
• Place strainer basket with ingredients into the water, cover and boil for 10 minutes. • Quickly add clean, rinsed and de-veined live crawfish (25 per person) • Stir to quickly and mercifully kill crawfish • Cover and cook for 3 minutes • Remove pot from heat and wait 10 minutes. • Remove strainer insert and drain fully. • Pour contents onto table covered in butcher paper. • Squeeze juice of 1 fresh lemon over top and dig in. ❖
Devour Utah • May 2018 39
DEREK CARLISLE
The Seafood Issue
Local trout is one of the healthiest fish you can eat BY MERRY LYCETT HARRISON
GRILLED RAINBOW TROUT
I
f you live in landlocked Utah and long for the sport and excitement of reeling in your own catch, try fly-fishing for trout. Look for the freshwater fish in cool moving water, such as the smaller streams in local canyons (Millcreek, Big Cottonwood and Little Cottonwood) where you’ll find small native trout. Drive 20 miles north to the Weber River or south to the Provo River to catch larger river trout—in fact, the Provo River and Deer Creek Reservoir make up one of the country’s top tailwater fisheries. Lake trout (as well as walleye, bass or perch) can be reeled in at Rockport, Willard Bay or Jordanelle reservoirs—all within an hour’s drive from Salt Lake City.
So fly!
To enjoy fly-fishing, you’ll need a fly rod and reel with line to cast out on the water, as well as a selection of flies suitable for what the fish are most likely feeding on at that time and season. The idea is to “match the hatch.” Both wet and dry flies resemble insects between the stages of hatching at the bottom of the river and rising to the surface as adult insects. Strange and beautiful flies are tied by hand using feathers, fur, iridescent thread—anything that looks like what the fish are feeding on. Local fishing stores like Fish Tech Outfitters (6153 S. Highland Drive, SLC, 801-272-8808, FishTechOutfitters.com) offer not only the right flies and gear like waders, vests, rods and nets, but good advice, too. A chalkboard in the back of the store explains conditions and suggested flies for popular areas, and a fishing license is easy to get online or in stores. 40 Devour Utah • May 2018
Cast away!
Once all necessary gear has been collected, grab a lunch and head to a beautiful nearby waterway, don your waders (or not), and cast your line gently into a promising spot. The dry fly will float like a real bug on the water. Wet ones are made to drift below the surface. When they start to drag in the current, cast again and enjoy your day. Whether you want to entice “ol’ mossy back” from under the bank of a river, attract smaller fry concealed by the shade of willows in mountain streams, or use a float tube to launch out to the deep waters of reservoirs and lakes in search of those big lunkers, there are many opportunities to wet your line. Fly-fishing can be an enjoyable, lifelong hobby because you never stop learning more about it. A good way to begin is with some instruction through community education, a sporting-goods store or with friends to learn the basics of casting. Good casting technique is important in order to hit your mark and avoid wearing yourself out. But don’t let lack of form hold you back. Beginners mainly need to learn how to get the fly out to the fish 30 to 40 feet from the bank. Fly-fishing is an endeavor that requires your full attention. You can’t think about anything else while doing it, and therein lies the pleasure in skill and fishing success. ❖ (See fish cooking tips on p. 43)
Devour Utah • May 2018 41
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nt
Cooking Up Fish Tips
DAN ROSS
PAN-SEARED TROUT
COOKING A WHOLE TROUT Not only are trout among the healthiest fish you can include in your diet, they’re easy to prepare and delicious to eat. Trout has a delicate, sweet, earthy flavor, and the texture is tender but firm. It needs very little dressing up. STUFF OR GARNISH WITH HERBS Fennel; garlic; chives; dill; lemon thyme; rosemary; parsley; and citrus juice, slices and zest are all great complements to this fish. GRILL Because small trout are delicate, lower temperatures and slower cooking is best. Turn only once.
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SMOKE Good for larger lake trout (5-pounds plus). It’s best to fillet it. Brush with oil and sprinkle with fresh spruce tips or rosemary and lemon zest.
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PAN-FRY Dredge the cleaned fish in a flour-and-cornmeal mix that is seasoned with chile, mesquite or other blends. Place into heated, bubbling butter in a frying pan for about 5 minutes per side until golden brown.
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TO DEBONE Cook trout and let it rest. The entire skeleton can then be easily pulled away from the tasty meat.
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DAN ROSS
STUFFED TROUT
Seasonings for other kinds of fish SALMON Dill, fennel, chives, tarragon, fresh chervil OILY FISH Shallot, dill, paprika, bay, thyme and lemon thyme, lovage, marjoram, garlic WHITE FISH Chervil, tarragon, parsley, chives, shallot, dill, fennel, all kinds of basil, bee balm, lemon balm, paprika, saffron
SEAFOOD Bay, basil, saffron, fennel seed, rosemary, marjoram, chives, lovage, rosemary, thyme, savory CREAMY CHOWDERS Bay, sage, savory, tarragon, thyme, lovage (all sparingly) and parsley FISH SOUPS Allspice, clove, saffron, cayenne, parsley, lovage, thyme, bay, garlic, celery, turmeric, cayenne
Merry Lycett Harrison, RH (AHG), is the owner of Millcreek Herbs in Salt Lake City. She’s also a teacher, author and a professional member of the American Herbalists Guild. Learn more at MillcreekHerbs.com
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The Seafood Issue
Sm kers Wanted Once a means to preserve fish, smoking is now a method of imparting flavor BY KATE PAPPAS
COURTNEY HANSEN
HIGH WEST DISTILLERY & SALOON’S SMOKED SALMON
S
moking fish at home might seem a daunting task but it’s more akin to grilling. For centuries, curing and smoking techniques were used for practical purposes to preserve meat and fish. And while smoking for preservation is still a common method throughout the world, it turns out that smoked meats and fish are also just plain delicious. Salmon and trout are two of the most popular—and sustainable!—types of fish to smoke, and there’s nothing fishy about these stand-out entrées at High West Distillery & Saloon and Tin Angel Café. The chefs at these establishments have also divulged their processes so you can try the art of smoking at home.
ASHLEY CHAPMAN’S SMOKED SALMON
The lively atmosphere and top-notch whiskey at High West Distillery & Saloon is rivaled only by its food, and executive chef Ashley Chapman gets high marks for his smoked salmon, served with local ricotta cheese, crushed spring peas and slow-cooked onion. Chapman uses sustainably farm-raised Loch Duart salmon from Scotland, which has a mild and delicate flavor. Chapman says he prefers farm-raised salmon to wild salmon due to the higher fat content, which helps keep the salmon from drying out during the smoking process.
• Rub salmon in a 50/50 blend of salt and brown sugar with chopped rosemary and ground juniper. Place in the fridge for 30 minutes. • Rinse salmon under cold running water and pat dry. • Air-dry salmon for 20 minutes at room temperature to develop “pellicle,” a tacky surface on the fish that encourages the smoke to stick to it. • Once the pellicle has formed, put a cast-iron pan with apple-wood chips on the stove on high and set them (barely) on fire. • Set the pan of chips in the bottom of the oven heated to 350 degrees. Cover the pan with a lid to put out the fire and set the salmon on racks above the pan. • Take the lid off the pan and close the oven door, cooking for seven to eight minutes on full fan. (This cooking process might take a few minutes longer in a home oven.) High West Distillery & Saloon 703 Park Ave., Park City 435-649-8300 HighWest.com
Devour Utah • May 2018 45
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46 Devour Utah • May 2018
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The Seafood Issue JERRY AND KESTREL LIEDTKE’S SMOKED TROUT
Perhaps the best part about the warm and eclectic Tin Angel Café is how owners Jerry and Kestrel Liedtke have managed to balance delightful food with next-level sustainability, all while not losing a beat. The Liedtkes are incredibly mindful of the carbon emissions required to ship fresh seafood to Utah, which is why local Red Rainbow trout leads the way in their seafood offerings. Of the three trout dishes available, two are fabulously smoked. The smoked trout salad is a wonderfully balanced mix of fresh, salty and creamy ingredients. The trout is served over mixed greens, fennel, pickled red onion, quinoa, pine nuts and goat cheese.
TIN ANGEL CAFE’S SMOKED TROUT SALAD
KATE PAPPAS BECKERMAN
• Fill a large pot with brine made up of two quarts water, ¼ cup salt, ¼ cup sugar, one juiced lemon, two tablespoons paprika and fresh herbs. • Bring brine to a boil and let it cool. • Soak trout in brine for 20 to 30 minutes. • Smoke the trout in electric smoker for 30 minutes at approximately 200 degrees. • Finish in the oven at 450 degrees for about 10 minutes. Tin Angel Café 365 W. 400 South, SLC 801-328-4155 TheTinAngel.com
SAMAK SMOKE HOUSE & COUNTRY STORE SMOKED TROUT
PRE-SMOKED & PACKAGED FOR PICKUP
COURTESY SAMAK SMOKE
For smoked fish on the go, look no further than the Samak Smoke House & Country Store, located in Kamas near the start of beautiful Mirror Lake Scenic Byway—a gateway to the Uinta Mountains. While owners Dave Witham and Jen Hisey might be best known for their beef and turkey jerky, their smoking prowess has, fortunately for us, extended into the world of fish. You can pick up smoked local Rainbow trout, smoked wild Alaskan salmon or wild Alaskan salmon jerky in-store or online. ❖ Samak Smoke House & Country Store 1937 Mirror Lake Highway, Kamas SamakSmokeHouse.com
Devour Utah • May 2018 47
Heavenly Breakfast, Lunch & Brunch serving beer, wine & fresh squeezed mimosas
2577 East Bengel Blvd. 801.542.0797 7:30am - 2:30pm 7 days a week
48 Devour Utah • May 2018
The Seafood Issue
Taste of New England The chowders, bisques, clambakes and lobster rolls of summer
FRESHIE’S AWARDWINNING LOBSTER ROLLS
By Jen Hill
DEREK CARLISLE
W
hile I’ve spent most of my life as an inlander, my parents’ origins were along the New England coast. With their ties to the Boston area, we often traveled east to family gatherings where seafood was a focal point of meals and special occasions. Summer visits to Nauset Beach on Massachusetts’ Cape Cod usually included a lunchtime stop at what resembled an outdoor fast-food venue. But instead of the typical hot dog or cheeseburger you’d expect to read on the menu, visualize an array of seafoodroll options. For those who’ve never tried one, the seafood roll is a buttered and toasted roll filled with lobster, deep-fried shrimp, fish, clams or scallops covered in a creamy dressing. You can sit down at a picnic table with your favorite cousin, a strong blast of New England air in your face, and be handed a food basket brimming with your seafood of choice and sizzling-hot fries. With that first savory mouthful, you forget the beach sand between your toes and the stinging heat from a newly acquired sunburn. All that deliciousness can be washed down with a thick chocolate or strawberry frappe (milkshake), or a scoop of vanilla ice cream rolled in jimmies (chocolate sprinkles). What a blast!
Lobster Rolls for Utahns Recalling those memories, you can imagine my joy at discovering local purveyor for lobbie-lovers Freshie’s Lobster Co. (1897 Prospector Ave., Park City, 435-631-9861, FreshiesLobsterCo.com). Matching the flavor and the freshness of the best of New England restaurants, Freshie’s founders Lorin and Ben Smaha got their start as food vendors at the Park Silly Farmers Market. With Lorin’s unique adaptations to the lobster-roll recipe, they launched a food truck and a “New England meets Park City” Freshie’s restaurant in 2016. In 2017, while visiting family in New England, the Smahas entered the Down East Lobster Roll Festival competition in Portland, Maine, and clinched the title of World’s Best Lobster Roll, beating out 11 contenders. With Freshie’s hailing from Utah, the East Coast press— including the Boston Globe—went crazy over it. Lorin Smaha, the culinary creator behind these most flavorful rolls, claims that most of her training came from a strong love of good food and, being a native from New Hampshire, she gets “cranky from lack of having a good meal.” Devour Utah • May 2018 49
The Seafood Issue
KELLI PENDLETON
CLAMS ARE ONLY A SMALL PART OF A NEW ENGLAND CLAMBAKE
Freshness and quality come first. An insatiable desire to deliver that to customers “is a daily practice,” Lorin says. Their lobsters are sourced from the Maine coastline and immediately prepped, sealed and packed on ice. They’re then shipped the same day to Boston and flown to Salt Lake City. You’ll see why critics called it a “well-balanced roll” when you taste the fresh bits of tender lobster morsels combined with mayo and Lorin’s secret spice blend, all packed inside a crunchy toasted bun, drizzled with browned clarified butter. I gulped down my first order of this sweet and tender “Mainah” lobster roll so quickly, I wanted more. My advice: Do yourself the favor, splurge and get the XL. You might say the Smahas are on a roll. In July 2018, they will open a second Freshie’s location at 356 E. 900 South, SLC, so that citizens off the coast of the Great Salt Lake can experience a tasty and true lobster roll, too.
The New England Clambake Driving along the Maine coastline—always on point as an affordable seafood dinner destination—roadside signs lead to local clambakes served up picnic-style, right next to large steaming kettles of boiled lobsters and fresh bi-colored sweet corn. Visiting with family during the summer months on the Cape, one can also expect a traditional clambake. The New England clambake is a labor of love that involves planning and effort. It entails an early morning trip to the fish market and an afternoon of food preparation that includes setting the table with bibs, nutcrackers and buckets for discarded shells, and, of course, whipping fresh cream for dessert. 50 Devour Utah • May 2018
“The name is a little misleading because clams are only a small part,” says my uncle, Bill McWilliams, just a little shy of 85 and still cooking strong with Auntie Ann. He renders his seafood smarts on how to create a New England-style clambake as only a native can. According to Uncle Bill, an authentic clambake should include “steamed soft-shelled clams, clam chowder, lobsters, sweet corn on the cob, coleslaw or potato salad.” Shopping for fresh seafood should be done early in the morning at an oceanside fish market that smells strongly of salt and brine as the wind whips through the doors. Careful, those floors might be wet, and the room is filled with large tanks teeming with lobbies, mussels, fish and other fresh catch. You’ll need to ask someone to grab a lively fidgeting lobster to weigh and price out on a scale. Shopping advice from Uncle Bill (who’s an older version of Matt Damon, only better): “The harder the shell, the fuller it is of meat, and that’s the name of the game.” Clams should be bought from markets that immerse them in seawater for over 24 hours, because, as Uncle Bill warns, “There is nothing worse than chomping down on a clam filled with sand.” At suppertime, the family table resonates with sounds of shell crackers, followed by the picking of and sucking out lobster meat from their 8 little legs. There’s smacking lips, finger licks and a pile of napkins for messy hands. Like many families, we are casual at the table, so expect loud conversation among siblings—perhaps one heated about politics or the Red Sox. But afterward, you’ll find nothing but full and happy bellies. (Continued p. 53)
Enjoy!
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The Seafood Issue
A
bisque is a smooth, velvety seasoned soup that uses a strained broth of crustaceans such as lobster, langoustine, crab, shrimp or crayfish. To make this delicious smoky, flavor-packed lobster bisque at home, Harmons Cooking School chef Callyn Harding recommends special ordering whole lobsters, or just use lobster tails, she says.
Smoky Lobster & CORN Bisque STOCK INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons avocado oil 2 chopped lobster shells (bodies and tail shells) 3 whole, fresh corn cobs cut into quarters ½ cup chopped fennel ½ cup chopped celery 2 chopped shallots 1 chopped leek (white and green) thoroughly cleaned ½ cup chopped parsnips sprig of thyme 6 whole black peppercorns 1 cup dry vermouth 8 cups water
By Jen Hill
SERVES 6
CHEF CALLYN HARDING’S LOBSTER BISQUE
BISQUE INGREDIENTS
BOSTONCHOWDAMAILORDER.COM
3 cups fresh corn kernels 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 cups half & half 1 tablespoon smoked paprika Lobster tails, raw and chopped into 1-inch chunks Fresh chives, tarragon and parsley for garnish (optional) Salt and pepper to taste
PROCESS: Heat oil in a heavy-bottomed stockpot over medium heat. Add lobster shells and corn to the pot. Sauté until fragrant. Add fennel, celery, shallots, leeks, parsnips, thyme and peppercorns to the lobster shell mixture. Continue to stir until vegetables have softened and begun to turn golden. Deglaze your stock pot by adding the dry vermouth, scraping off any bits that might have attached to the bottom of your pan. Allow the vermouth to boil and be absorbed by the vegetable mixture. Once the vermouth has been absorbed, add water. Bring to a boil and reduce to simmer for 1 hour, covered. Strain stock, reserving the liquid and disposing of the solids. In an enamel-bottom pot, heat the butter until bubbling and golden, not brown. Add corn kernels and sauté until soft, about 5 minutes. Remove half of the sautéed corn
and set aside. Add the reserved lobster stock to the pan with the corn and blend with an immersion blender until creamy. Add half & half and smoked paprika and heat to a low simmer. Add lobster chunks and reserved corn to the bisque and continue to simmer until lobster is just cooked through, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with your choice of fresh herbs. I prefer a combination of chives, parsley and tarragon.
CHEF HARDING’S TIPS: When cleaning the lobster tails, use kitchen shears to cut down the inside of the tail. The shell lining on the underside is very thin and easy to cut through. Once a cut has been made, with both hands the tail can be cracked, exposing the meat. Make a double batch of the lobster stock and freeze for another soup or sauce. This will last for up to six months in the freezer and three to four days in the refrigerator. Devour Utah • May 2018 53
Devour This | Recipe
VINCE NOLAN
SCALLOP & CLAM CHOWDER
Scallop & Clam Chowder
Harmons Chef Callyn Harding’s Scallop & Clam Chowder Serves 4
This recipe not only uses clams but also scallops. It may be more expensive to make, Chef Harding says, but scallops make it “so much more yummy.”
BY JEN HILL
BRITTANY MOSS
Chowder versus bisque: what’s the difference? Callyn Harding, a chef at Harmons Cooking School, notes that both are seafood soups, but chowders are creamy, thick and loaded with chunky veggies and bits of seafood like clams, scallops or fish. A bisque is creamy but oh-so smooth. A velvety rich, stock-based lobster bisque is a classic (see p. 53 for a recipe). Harding’s cooking journey began on the island of St. Thomas, where she worked and traveled up and down the East Coast aboard a private yacht. Her training continued at the Natural Gourmet Institute in New York City. She now works at Harmons new market in Holladay, teaching an array of classes. Beyond seafood, she specializes in ethnic cuisines.
54 Devour Utah • May 2018
Ingredients 4 tablespoon unsalted butter ½ cup diced yellow onion ½ cup all-purpose flour 3 cups clam juice, warmed ½ cup white wine 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh dill, chopped
1 bay leaf ½ cup half & half ½ pound sea scallops, quartered ½ pound clams ½ cup fresh corn kernels Additional fresh parsley for garnish
Process In a medium heavy-bottomed pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté until translucent. Whisk in the flour; reduce heat to low and cook for five minutes, stirring constantly until the raw flour smell has turned to a fragrant nutty scent. Slowly incorporate the clam juice while stirring with a whisk to avoid lumping. Stir in the wine, parsley, dill and bay leaf. Simmer over low heat for an additional 30 to 45 minutes. Remove the bay leaf and whisk in the half & half. On a medium-low heat, slowly cook the sea scallops and clams in the hot chowder until firm. Add the fresh corn kernels while the scallops are cooking. Finish with a parsley or other fresh herb garnish and serve immediately.
To learn how to make this dish and other seafood recipes, visit: HarmonsGrocery.com/Classes ❖
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Seafood Issue
of fish
Get out of your sushi roll rut with these raw-fish bites STORY & PHOTOS BY MIKEY SALTAS
S
ince childhood, my love of fish has propelled me into every sushi bar I could convince my parents to take me to. I’ve celebrated all my birthdays since I was 8 at Takashi in downtown Salt Lake City, enjoying all types of rawfish delicacies created by Takashi Gibo who, in my opinion, has written the book on sushi. I can’t think of a dish on any sushi menu that I’d say no to. As an adult dining out with friends, I find it sometimes challenging when they order the same basic rolls each time. “Come on,” I want to say. “Live a little.” I know it’s easy to get in a food rut. Especially with sushi, we find a few rolls we enjoy and tend to order them over and over. Requesting rare or unknown dishes can create an uneasy feeling since the costs do add up, and we wonder if the satisfaction will be there. Luckily, I found a work companion who enjoys trying out raw-fish dishes as much as I do. Raised in a seafood-loving family that owned a commercial fishing business in Oregon, Vaughn Robison, an art director for Copperfield Media, claims he basically was raised on sushi. His ability to appreciate the rare and raw dishes on Takashi’s menu proved we were on the same level. We decided to enjoy a lunch of “advanced” sushi for this article, but with these caveats: no fried fish, no exorbitant sauces to mask the taste. And no California Rolls. 56 Devour Utah • May 2018
Mussels: Syllabus Week
The mussel shooters ($6.50) are a zesty way to begin. The ceviche served on top is acidic, so we ordered them with quail eggs to add richness and tone down the bite.
Now, to cast a wider net and delve deeper into the coursework Saba: house-cured mackerel
Nigiri: Pop quizzes When the next wave of seafood hit our table, our eyes lit up—now, we were getting somewhere. Robison and I went heavy on the nigiri, a thin slice of fish atop a bite of sticky rice. The saba ($4) is the housecured mackerel and, as advised by
the staff, was strong. The house cure sweetens the mackerel and controls the strong flavor. The uni ($16) is sea urchin, and this was my first taste of it. When it hit my mouth, I wasn’t expecting its briny, gelatinous texture. Robison concurred and detected a little sweetness after the brine that made
Uni: sea urchin
Kamasu: barracuda
sense of the surprising taste. The kamasu, or barracuda, ($10) is now my new favorite fish (bumping yellowtail tuna off its pedestal). It’s a knockout. The torched preparation added a light smokiness to the powerful flavor. The spices that top the fish were an excellent addition but subtle enough to leave room to savor the fish. If there’s a dish on Takashi’s chalkboard that can pole-vault you to the advanced level, try the barracuda. Devour Utah • May 2018 57
Seafood Issue
Black Magic Woman roll featuring sablefish
Spicy Tako: diced octopus
Ankimo: monkfish liver
Ponyo roll featuring hirame
Sablefish: Midterms
Ponyo roll > Final Exam
Next, we enjoyed a Takashi specialty roll, Black Magic Woman ($8.95), made up of sablefish, roasted red bell pepper, spicy sauce inside with lemon pesto, ponzu and sesame seeds on top. I’d tried it before, but Robison’s keen observations allowed me to enjoy it more. The taste of the buttery, black cod sablefish took Robison back to his childhood when his father would treat him to the fish.
The Ponyo roll ($15), served with hirame fish, Asian pear, shiso, lime, chiles and ponzu sauce, is a pleasant way to end the meal and pass with flying colors. The crispiness of the pear, as well as the citrusy flavor of the roll, complement the hirame fish impeccably. A must-order roll for a Takashi visit.
Monkfish & Octopus: Research Paper Next up was the ankimo gunkan maki ($5.95), a helping of monkfish liver pate topped with ponzu sauce, scallions and momiji. Let this one sink in as it’s an acquired taste for some. The texture is creamy, but not as heavy as foie gras. The ponzu sauce lightens the taste and adds a spice that fills every corner of your mouth with delight. Fan of octopus sashimi? The spicy tako ($5.50) is a zesty bite of the diced cephalopod. What sea urchin and monkfish liver lack in mouthfeel, the octopus makes up for with a piquant chewiness. The seaweed salad and eel sauce converge to make the bite pop. 58 Devour Utah • May 2018
Willie’s chilis & panna cotta > Extra Credit Couldn’t muster up the courage to indulge in one of the dishes above? Try the off-menu Willie’s chilis ($12), a base of tempura shishito peppers topped off with tuna tartar and habaneros. Or, finish up with Takashi’s unique panna cotta ($6.95), a white gelatin-like dessert made with candy-cap mushrooms that sweetly completes any sushi meal.
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More sushi tips on p. 61
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Continued from p. 58
Some Dos and Don’ts of Eating Sushi
Do eat traditional rolls and nigiri by hand. Use chopsticks for messier rolls topped with sauces, tobiko and such. Do eat nigiri in one bite. There is a perfect balance of fish, rice and wasabi. Two bites throws off the balance. Do dip nigiri fish-side down. Otherwise, the rice will crumble. Do eat the ginger. It’s a palate cleanser, so eat it between different dishes, not during. Do ask for the skin of your nigiri fish. It’s delicious cut in small piece with rice vinegar over it. Do try new things. Give your chef a direction of your tastes and let them work their magic. Do request omakase service on occasion. For a set dollar amount, ask the chef to decide what to serve you, based on your likes, dislikes and any dietary restrictions. Do ask what’s in season. Do look at the fish specials on the chalkboard. Do ask your server for recommendations. They know about off-menu specials.
Don’t put wasabi in your soy sauce. Put some wasabi directly on your sushi as needed. Don’t pick up shared food with the pointy side of chopsticks. Instead, flip them and use the fatter end so you don’t spread germs. Don’t drown your sushi. A gentle dab of soy sauce is plenty. Too much masks the flavors.
Devour Utah • May 2018 61
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
T
he Utah Restaurant Association (URA) honored restaurant professionals all over the state at their annual Restaurant Industry Gala Monday, May 6, 2018 at the Grand America Hotel. The URA recognizes individual achievements; along with honoring restaurant concepts from quick service, fast casual, casual dine and fine dine. At the URA we know food is all about community and we feel privileged to be able to bring the entire industry together to celebrate one another and include every aspect of our dynamic and abundant industry! With over 500 attendees, the gala provides the URA the opportunity to recognize the incredible achievement of professionals both in the restaurant industry and those who contribute to the success of the restaurant industry from outside.
62 Devour Utah • May 2018
Melva Sine, Tom Guinney, Orrin Hatch and Terry Capener
LEGACY AWARDS This year’s gala was also a celebration of the Utah Restaurant Association’s 75th Anniversary serving as the voice of Utah Restaurants. The association honored outstanding contributions to Utah’s restaurant community by recognizing four individuals who though not directly in the industry, have had a positive impact on the industry with a prestigious Legacy Award including Senator Orrin Hatch, who was introduced by Tom Guinney, Owner of Gastronomy Restaurants and honored at a ceremony earlier in the week at the New Yorker. Other Legacy Awards included the late Vasilios Priskos, Julie Wilson co-founder of PCARA and past URA chairman, and Melva Sine, President of the Utah Restaurant Association for over 24 years of leadership.
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association Yelena Caputo, of Caputo’s Market & Deli
Justin Soelberg of Nomad Eatery
HEART OF THE INDUSTRY AWARDS Utah Del Taco husband and wife team Paul and Jane Hitzelberger were honored with the Lifetime Achievement. The prestigious Golden Spoon aka Restauratuer of the Year was given to Michael McHenry, CEO of Even Steven’s Sandwiches. The Hall Of Fame award was given to two outstanding restaurateurs - Glee Zumbrunen, of Brick Oven Pizza and Robert “Sully” Sullivan, owner of Utah Food Services. Yelena Caputo, of Caputo’s Market & Deli was recognized with The Heart Of The Industry award. The Eating Establishment was recognized for having the Bar Program of the Year. The Chairman’s Award acknowledged Governor Gary Herbert for all his good work in serving the restaurant industry and helping bring down the wall.
NEW CONCEPT AWARDS
Jerry Liedtke Jr. of Tin Angel
The Best New Concept awards are presented to recognize new restaurants for their innovation and progressive contributions to the industry. The 2018 Best New Concept winners included Sego Restaurant in Kanab for Fine Dine, Nomad Eatery in Salt Lake City as Casual Dine, Vessel Kitchen in Park City as Fast Casual and Freshies Lobster Co., who is preparing to open their second brick and mortar in Salt Lake City as Quick Service concept of the year.
TASTE UTAH AWARDS Taste Utah Award’s highlight dining destinations all over the state. These locations are features on the Taste Utah series Saturday mornings on CW30, as well as smaller videos featured on TasteUT.com. Get into your summer by eating your way through Utah and trying each of these dining destinations! Devour Utah • May 2018 63
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
Taste Utah Award Recipients 3 Cups, Amano Chocolate, Avenues Proper Restaurant, Bandannas Grill, Bateman Dairy Farm, Blue Copper Coffee Roasters, Blue Plate Diner, Centro Pizza, Central Milling, CHOM Burger, Clifford Family Farm, Copper Kitchen, Cupbob, Desert Bistro, The Eating Establishment, Eva’s Bakery, Fullmer’s Dairy, Gourmandise the Bakery, Houweling’s Tomatoes, HSL, Liberty Heights Fresh, The New Yorker, Oscar’s Cafe, R & R BBQ, Red Acre Farm, Rio Grande Cafe, Rockhill Creamery, Royal Street Cafe, Sage’s Cafe, Salsa Leedos, Sandhill Farms, Sego, SLC Top Crops, Snuck Farm, Stoneground Kitchen, Tin Angel, Veneto Ristorante Italiano, Vessel Kitchen, Zucca Ristorante.
Vessel Kitchen
PROSTART AWARDS The gala brings future employees and restaurateurs together with industry by highlighting the URA’s ProStart Program and team achievements for the 2017-2018 regionals and state culinary and management competitions, as well as honoring an outstanding culinary educator with Teacher of the Year. Shelly Mendenhall of Desert Hills High School received this honor and ProStart Student of the Year was Westlake’s Hunter Reben, he receives a $10,000 scholarship compliments of Sysco Intermountain. This year’s ProStart culinary and management champions were also recognized along with regional winners. State champions for culinary, Westlake High School and management, Provo High School represented as team Utah last month at the National ProStart Invitational.
Sego
A Cut Above Executive Chef and Partner of The New Yorker Restaurant, Chef Will Pliler was honored with the coveted 2018 Chef Of The Year award. Chef Pliler is committed to the quintessential fine dining experience. His restaurant is one of the few greats still remaining, that inspires you to get a bit fancy and enjoy a proper night out. He joined The New Yorker staff in July of 1979 and has served as Executive Chef since 1984. Under his guidance The New Yorker has received many accolades. Among them are the Zagat Survey of Top Restaurants which said, “The ‘grand patriarch of Downtown SLC restaurants’ this ‘tasteful, elegant’ ‘classic’ is the ‘always reliable, always appropriate’ choice...’excellent’ Traditional American fare (including ‘great steaks’ and ‘to-die-for soufflés’) delivered by a ‘top-notch’ staff.” Chef Pliler doesn’t hesitate to infuse flavors and put dishes on his menu that could be “a hard sell” or expand the palates’ of his patrons. Chef Pliler continues to masterfully craft a menu which both celebrates tradition while pushing the gastronomic envelope and setting the pace for fine dining in Salt Lake City. His expertise and evolution as one of Utah’s great chefs puts the New Yorker Restaurant high on our list of Dining Destinations.
Chef Will Pliler
The Industry Awards could not have been possible without major sponsors: Sysco Intermountain, Workers Compensation Fund Insurance, and ABC4; along with the support of Dairy West, Deer Valley Resort, Nicholas and Company, Devour Utah and URA affiliate organization; the Park City Area Restaurant Association.
64 Devour Utah • May 2018
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
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ELENI SALTAS
Last Bite
Pesky Pescatarian
Fish eaters might be the ones who live long and prosper BY ELENI SALTAS
Pescatarian (peskəˈterēən) noun One whose diet includes fish but no other meat.
S
ince moving to Utah five years ago, Bret Lucas has worked as a personal trainer at Age Performance, a gym that focuses on fitness concepts for older adults. A Chicago native and avid competitor, Lucas moved west to experience the mountains and challenge himself with diverse outdoor activities such as running, hiking, mountain biking and snowshoeing. To date, Lucas has competed in 40 triathlons and more than 30 marathons, and he’s currently training for his seventh Ironman—a long-distance triathlon that includes a 2.4-mile swim, followed by a 112-mile bike ride and finishing with a grueling 26.2-mile run. With such an active lifestyle, it was remarkable to learn Lucas is a strict pescatarian. The term was coined in the early 1990s and refers to a vegetarian who adds fish and seafood to his or her diet.
66 Devour Utah • May 2018
But, Lucas says, he hasn’t always been so fish friendly. Before becoming a pescatarian, he ate his fair share of fried chicken and McDonald’s fare. “It was terrible. I ate terrible,” he admits. “I noticed I had a really high heart rate even when I was resting; my body just didn’t feel right.” A visit to a cardiologist confirmed he was in great shape and had nothing to worry about. But Lucas took it upon himself to do some research of his own and began to consider that meat-eating was contributing to his heart-rate problems. He stopped eating meat—cold turkey. He even became vegan for a short period but now eats fish twice a week. Through his research, Lucas learned of the many health benefits of a pescatarian diet, including a lower risk of obesity and chronic diseases like heart disease and diabetes. Seafood is an excellent source of omega-3 fatty acids as well as a means to boost one’s protein intake. If fish comes from regional and local sources, the carbon footprint of fish eaters tends to be smaller. Lucas expressed his dislike of industrial farming and doesn’t support businesses that are cruel to animals. Yet, how does he conscience eating fish in light of concerns that the Earth’s oceans are becoming overfished? Lucas believes the meat industry to be more inhumane to animals, and even to its workers, but he agrees there is a problem with the fish industry as well. “I only eat wild or sustainably sourced fish, such as salmon.” The key, he says, is to ask where the fish comes from when buying it at the market or ordering at a restaurant. It has been 10 years since Lucas took his last bite of meat—he no longer has a racing heart rate, and now runs with ease. Even with an active lifestyle, Lucas has no trouble consuming enough calories. He eats a variety of plants, including seaweed and leafy greens, and regularly devours rice and beans. “And I drink a lot of these,” Lucas says with a smile, as he slurps down his last sip of his plant-based protein shake before heading to work with his next client. ❖
Devour Utah • May 2018 67
68 Devour Utah • May 2018