The Cheese Issue
Cheese Is L ve A plate of cheese, a jug of wine and thou STORY AND PHOTOS BY MIKA LEE & CAIT LEE Hey, Cheeseaholics—How much do you know about cheese? A lot, you say? Here’s a pop quiz: How many cheese categories are there? Answer: Seven. Or maybe it’s eight, or even 10, if you google it. Food Network’s Alton Brown breaks it down to five: fresh cheeses that are under 2 weeks old so they haven’t got a rind (think: cream cheese, feta, cottage cheese and chevre); soft ripened cheeses that ooze at room temperature (i.e., brie and Camembert) and usually come in disks; semi-hard cheeses that are sometimes coated in wax or cloth and include dense, chewy cheeses like Edam as well as washed-rind semisofts like Époisses; hard cheeses, like cheddar, Parmesan, Gruyère and manchego, that are firm and have thick, dense rinds or are waxed; and veined cheeses like Roquefort, Gorgonzola and Stilton, which come in a variety of flavors. Feel smarter now? That should at least get you into a cheesy conversation but just know classifications vary depending on who you ask. For many Utahns, Kraft and Velveeta were training wheels of fromage, and many still lean toward mass-produced bricks of cheddar and Swiss.
But why cling to the familiar when Utah has climbed aboard the cheese train? Today, numerous outlets have brought to market a wide variety of “milk made immortal,” ranging from local to international, with samples to help expand your knowledge, plus classes and events. We’ve teamed up with Mariah Christensen, Harmons’ specialty cheese buyer and certified cheese professional, to highlight four fabulous cheese plates with bites of golden goodness from around the globe (and from a variety of dairy herds). If you already have a few favorites but need pointers on bringing them together, Christensen suggests incorporating five flavors (sweet, umami, bitter, etc.) in your cheese plate. Add textures such as fresh fruits, chocolate and nuts. “Cheese in threes” is more pleasing to the eye. Most importantly, she says, develop a relationship with a cheesemonger. After understanding your preferences, they can recommend cheeses they have in stock. Keep these plates in mind the next time you’re shopping for a seductive plate of cheese. What better way to win over the Honeycrisp of your eye! Cheeses, left to right: Midnight Moon, Mobay, La Tur
Traveling Trio: Goat, Sheep and Cow’s Milk Not sure about which cheese milk you’ll like? Taste samples from the big three—goat, sheep and cow— and decide for yourself. Beginners and epicureans alike will savor this cheese plate with tastes from around the globe. Fun fact: Worldwide, 48.5 billion pounds of cheese is consumed each year.
8 Devour Utah • february 2020
Midnight Moon is a goat-milk cheese similar to Gouda for the chary palate. A great introduction to goat cheese, this one is mild, sweet and creamy with a nice pink hue. Aging, which breaks down proteins and fats for this cheese, occurs in the Netherlands, making it a great choice to pair with their famous stroopwafel.
Mobay is a unique half-and-half cheese wheel from America’s cheese capital, Wisconsin. Separated by a thin layer of ash, this semi-soft cheese has two slight color differences defined by the type of milk. Sheep’s milk has hints of lemon zest, warm butterscotch and cream while goat milk has a silky texture with savory umami broth and fresh bread flavors. Try each separately or combined for a third flavor.
Robiola-style cheeses with soft rinds like La Tur are fluffy and gooey for optimal spreading. Made from goat, sheep and cow milk, La Tur is light, milky and carries a hint of sweetness, doubling as a dessert cheese. Pair with fresh fruit and/or a sparkling wine.
