VOL.4 NO.6 • DECEMBER 2018 / JANUARY 2019
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NATIONAL PARKS TO VISIT THIS WINTER December 2018 / January 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 1
2 | Vamoose Utah • December 2018 / January 2019
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December 2018 / January 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 3
Angel Canyon outside Kanab, Utah
MOLLY WALD - BEST FRIENDS ANIMAL SOCIETY
VAMOOSE INSIDE
8 18 20 24
CHILL THRILLS
Winter visits to Bryce and Zion national parks offer off-season rates and epic adventures BY GEOFF GRIFFIN & KATHLEEN CURRY
LET THE SUN SHINE IN
Soak up the Vegas sun and fun—minus the desert heat BY GEOFF GRIFFIN & KATHLEEN CURRY
SEEING THE FOREST
Threatened by climate change, a Utah aspen grove may be here only today, gone tomorrow STORY & PHOTOS BY CHRIS VANOCUR
POETIC PIGMENTS
The discovery of rock art at Fish Creek Cove gave the Fremont culture its name STORY & PHOTOS BY JERRY D. SPANGLER
4 | Vamoose Utah • December 2018 / January 2019
26 30 32
IN PURSUIT OF BUTTERFLIES
Russian novelist Vladimir Nabokov may be most famous for Lolita but Utahns can thank him for their pug BY JOHN RASMUSON
BACKCOUNTRY CHEF
Gifts for the outdoor cook: Ten nifty ways to be gifty BY ANNA KASER
SOUTHERN COMFORT
Take a volunteering vacation and make some new Best Friends. BY RED OELERICH
BEST IN CAR STEREO FOR 39 YEARS
December 2018 / January 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 5
VOL.4 NO.6 • DECEMBER 2018 / JANUARY 2019
CONTRIBUTORS
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STAFF EDITORIAL
EDITOR EDITORIAL INTERN PROOFREADERS CONTRIBUTORS
PHOTOGRAPHERS
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR GRAPHIC ARTIST
BUSINESS/OFFICE
ASSOCIATE BUSINESS MANAGER OFFICE ADMINISTRATORS TECHNICAL DIRECTOR
MARKETING
MARKETING & EVENTS COORDINATOR
CIRCULATION
CIRCULATION MANAGER
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ADVERTISING DIRECTOR NEWSPRINT ADVERTISING DIRECTOR SALES DIRECTOR, EVENTS DIGITAL OPERATIONS MANAGER SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES RETAIL ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES
John Saltas
Jerre Wroble Caitlin Hawker Anna Kaser, Wendy Wilburn Kathleen Curry, Geoff Griffin, Anna Kaser, Red Oelerich John Rasmuson, Jerry Spangler, Chris Vanocur Carl Oelerich, Jerry Spangler, Chris Vanocur
John Rasmuson spends his days trying to put the right words in the right order. He wrote a column for City Weekly for 12 years that won awards every now and then when he got the words just right.
Sofia Cifuentes Chelsea Neider, Sean Hair
Paula Saltas David Adamson, Sammy Herzog Bryan Mannos
SARAH ARNOFF
PUBLISHER
A recent U of U graduate with a degree in English, Anna Kaser grew up loving everything about Utah. When she’s not hiking or camping, you can find Anna sampling local food and beer or working on events for City Weekly and Vamoose Utah.
Samantha Smith
Eric Granato
Jennifer Van Grevenhof Pete Saltas Kyle Kennedy Anna Papadakis Doug Kruithof, Kathy Mueller Alex Markham, Mieka Sawatzki, Jeremiah Smith
Cover image: Bryce Canyon photo by Ken Goulding Distributed free of charge throughout the Wasatch Front while supplies last. Additional copies of Vamoose Utah are available at the Vamoose offices: 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101, 801-575-7003
Editorial contact: Editor@vamooseutah.com Advertising contact: Sales@vamooseutah.com COPPERFIELD PUBLISHING, INC • COPYRIGHT 2018. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED @vamooseutah
6 | Vamoose Utah • December 2018 / January 2019
@vamooseutah
@vamooseutah
Red Oelerich is the founder of Outdoor Utah. He and his wife, Karen (of Mother Karen of Utah skiwear fame), along with sons and daughters, their spouses and seven grandchildren frequently accompany Red and Karen on outdoor adventures statewide. Oelerich was inducted into the Utah Tourism Hall of Fame in 2011.
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
MILD, YET an intrepid national parks journey), you can discover some of Utah’s most jaw-dropping vistas. And did we mention it can all be enjoyed offseason in relative solitude? Also, in a southerly direction, the siren call of Las Vegas is one that few Utahns can resist. The entertainment options alone are worth the trip, especially around the holidays, but so is the milder, sunnier climate. Griffin and Curry highlight some “don’t miss” activities to take in during the winter season in “Let the Sun Shine in.” One country road to be explored this winter is State Road 25, whose southern approach is maintained year-round giving access to the endangered Pando aspen grove. In “Seeing the Forest,” our roving reporter, Chris Vanocur, visited the forest and pondered a world without this magnificent grove. Continue driving an hour southeast of Pando to discover another sacred spot: Fish Creek Cove, home to evocative rock art creations by early Puebloan peoples who once inhabited the area. Archaeologist Jerry Spangler describes how to get there and what to look for in “Poetic Pigments.” From there, continue south to Kanab,
where you can experience a working vacation volunteering at Best Friends Animal Sanctuary. In “Southern Comfort,” outdoor adventurer Red Oelerich describes his lifeenriching journey to Best Friends. Utah is a backdrop not only for a glut of Hollywood Westerns but also for adventure writers and artists of all stripes. John Rasmuson retraces the blue highway adventures by Russian author Vladimir Nabokov (of Lolita fame) that brought him to and through Utah in his feature “In Pursuit of Butterflies.” Finally, it’s that time of year when the camp cooks in our lives deserve some love in the form of inspired gifts under the tree. Follow Anna Kaser’s lead in “Ten Nifty Ways to Be Gifty,” and you’ll be sure to bring a smile to the face of any outdoor chef in your life. We hope this issue of Vamoose will carry you through the winter of any discontent. Make a point to head south for a Vitamin D fix and a hike to a red-rock overlook that takes your breath away. Jerre Wroble Editor
Bryce Canyon
EMANUEL HAHN
W
e get it: It’s winter in Utah, and some of us feel the need to hibernate. But why would you when you can easily escape the ice and snow? The key is to head southwest, toward St. George and the surrounding Washington County. Known as “Dixie,” it was nicknamed by Mormon settlers to the Virgin River Valley who happened to be Southerners hoping to grow cotton and tobacco. While the sub-tropical crops didn’t work out, tourism and retirement communities eventually did. Winter temps in St. George average in the mid-to-upper 50s during December and January. Snowfall is rare and what does make it to the ground usually melts in a day or two. If you haven’t given up on the biking, hiking and golfing of summer, this is the spot to be. If rugged adventure is more your jam, then swing by Bryce and Zion national parks. Here, encounters with snow-capped hoodoos and rock formations offer dramatic contrasts of color: white snow, red rocks and blue skies. With proper clothing (think layers), good planning and a copy of Vamoose in hand (see the “Chill Thrills” feature, where Geoff Griffin and Kathleen Curry describe
December 2018 / January 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 7
WEEKEND WARRIOR
8 | Vamoose Utah • December 2018 / January 2019
Bryce Canyon National Park in winter
CHILL THRILLS Winter visits to Bryce and Zion national parks offer off-season rates and epic adventures BY GEOFF GRIFFIN & KATHLEEN CURRY
KEN GOULDING
D
uring the warm months of spring, summer and fall, people from all over the world flock by the millions to Bryce Canyon and Zion national parks. In the winter, the crowds drop like the temperatures. It’s a time for Wasatch-Fronters to enjoy their own recreational backyard with less stress, moderate temperatures and an increased wildlife presence in the parks. The following itinerary aims to give northern Utahns a chance to experience the beauty and sunshine of southern Utah in the coldest months of the year.
December 2018 / January 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 9
••••
Thursday
The quickest route to adventure
SALT LAKE CITY
THURSDAY AFTERNOON SLC to Manti
MANTI
Consider taking the scenic route on your way south on U.S. Route 89, which runs through the heart of Utah both literally, and figuratively, as you enjoy the scenery of farms and historic, small towns. Take Interstate 15 south into Utah County. Near Spanish Fork, you’ll see signs for US-6 going east toward Price. Hop on for about 15 miles before following the signs for US-89 to Ephraim and Manti. It’s about a two-hour drive to reach Manti, where you can stop for dinner at Dirk’s Farmhouse Restaurant (115 N. Main, Manti, 435835-6500, DirksFarmhouse.com) The restaurant is known for its chicken Marsala, or you can experience the same bacon-mushroom sauce on top of a Marsala burger. For dessert, check out the deep-fried xangos. What’s a xango? All you need to know is that it’s a mixture of cheesecake, bananas, caramel and tortillas cut into small chunks. Did we mention that it’s deep-fried?
THURSDAY NIGHT Manti to Bryce Canyon BRYCE CANYON
10 | Vamoose Utah • December 2018 / January 2019
After dinner, head another two hours south on US-89 before taking a left onto Utah State Route 12 in Panguitch, and driving east for a half hour to arrive at Ruby’s Inn (26 S. Main St., Bryce Canyon City, 866-866-6634, RubysInn.com) This well-known establishment has been housing travelers since 1916 just outside of Bryce Canyon National Park (NPS.gov/brca).
December 2018 / January 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 11
••••
Friday
SRONGKROD
Bryce Canyon National Park
FRIDAY MORNING Bryce Canyon National Park 12 | Vamoose Utah • December 2018 / January 2019
After a good night’s rest at Ruby’s, start the day by enjoying the sunrise on a 9-mile drive to the east on UT-12 to the town of Tropic. There you’ll find Bryce Canyon Coffee Co. (21 N. Main, Tropic, BryceCanyonCoffeeCo.com), which has all the coffee and tea combinations you’ll want, as well as baked goods and Wi-Fi.
FRIDAY AFTERNOON When figuring out what to do at Bryce Canyon in the winter, the same instructions apply as during the summer. Make sure you know what the weather will be like and be prepared with proper clothing, hydration and emergency gear. It’s always a good idea to stop by the visitor’s center and talk to a ranger about which trails are open and clear, and what to expect. If you want to just look out on the beauty of Bryce Canyon, the snow is usually cleared off the Rim Trail sidewalks from Sunrise to Sunset points. The parking lots for the four overlooks into the canyon Amphitheater also are plowed after every storm. Some roads are intentionally left unplowed so that visitors can enjoy cross-country skiing or snowshoeing. If you’d like to give the latter a try, check out the Bryce Canyon Snowshoe Program (NPS. gov/brca/planyourvisit/winter.htm). It’s free, and they’ll provide not only the equipment, but also a ranger to guide you around. Sessions typically take about two hours. Outside of the park, Ruby’s Inn has its own ice-skating rink, and can also set you up with local outfitters to do a range of winter recreation activities, including snowmobiling and sleigh rides. Also, consider setting aside Presidents Day Weekend (Feb. 16-18) to attend the Bryce Canyon Winter Festival (RubysInn.com/brycecanyon-winter-festival/) for three days of indoor and outdoor fun.
RUBY’S INN
Bryce Canyon Winter Festival
FRIDAY NIGHT Head back to Ruby’s Inn at the end of the day and get ready for dinner at the Cowboy’s Buffet and Steak Room (1-866-866-6616, RubysInn.com), located on the property. As the name indicates, your options include going with a buffet or classic steak plates, but you might also want to consider trying the wild-mushroom stuffed ravioli smothered in Alfredo sauce, made fresh daily.
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Your donations to Press Backers are TAX deductible If We don’t print it, Who will? December 2018 / January 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 13
Zion National Park dusted with snow
ALINE DASSEL
••••
Saturday
SATURDAY MORNINGc You’ll want to get an early start before spending the day in Zion National Park. The good news is that from the end of November until early March, Zion shuts down its shuttle service, so you can drive through the park at your own pace. The bad news is that when all of the parking spots are filled around the park, the staff may decide not to let new cars in until some have left. The early bird not only gets the worm but also full access to the park. Head back west on UT-12 and then turn south onto US-89. It’s about an hourlong drive to get to Mount Carmel Junction, where US-89 intersects with UT-9. The Thunderbird Restaurant (435-648-2203) sits right on one of the corners of that junction. You can’t miss it because you won’t be able to ignore the large sign reading, “Home of the Ho-Made Pies.” It may have seemed like a clever play on words when the owners came up with the phrase in 1931, but a 21st-century audience may see it as unintentionally funny. Since it’s breakfast time, you might want to skip the pie, but you can still get “Ho-made biscuits” as part of a dish called “Ernest’s stuffed biscuits,” which features bakery items stuffed with sausage and scrambled eggs and smothered in country gravy. From Mount Carmel Junction, it’s a 30-minute drive west on UT-9 to go through the east entrance to Zion National Park (NPS.gov/ zion) and reach the parking lot for the Canyon Overlook Trail. The hike is only a milelong with slight elevation, but there is uneven terrain and steep drop-offs. The name tells you why it’s worth the effort. Once you leave the trail, it takes just a couple of minutes to get to the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel. This 1.1 mile tunnel was completed 14 | Vamoose Utah • December 2018 / January 2019
in 1930 as a way to get from Bryce Canyon to Zion. It still functions nearly 90 years later and has several cut-out “window” sections along the way with stunning views into the park. In terms of hikes and activities in the park, again, check the weather and speak with the rangers. Average highs in Zion in the winter months can be in the high 50s and low 60s, making for exceptional hiking weather. However, it gets dark early and temperatures drop to below freezing at night so watch the time and beware of ice. While many animals are hibernating in Zion, winter can also be a great time to see bighorn sheep, elk, deer and eagles. Depending on the weather, you might be able to cross-country ski or snowshoe between the East Rim Trail and Observation Point. Given the daytime highs, snow can melt quickly so make sure to check ahead to see if there is actually any white stuff on the ground.
SATURDAY NIGHT You won’t have to leave the park if you stay at Zion National Park Lodge (ZionLodge.com, 435-772-7700) and take advantage of its winter bed-and-breakfast package, which includes a night in a hotel room, suite or cabin along with breakfast for two at the on-site Red Rock Grill. That restaurant will also be where you’ll get dinner on Saturday night. Red Rock is noted for its chef-created Navajo tacos or Western bison meatloaf. Whatever main dish you order, the menu gives you recommended wine and beer pairings.
Sunday
••••
DANIEL OLAH
A giant peeks through the clouds at Zion National Park
Zion National Park to SLC Enjoy breakfast dishes at Red Rock, such as omelets or pancakes, or give the “Weeping Rock Waffle” a try before heading out to get in one last short hike or drive around the park. Take the West Entrance out of the park into the town of Springdale. Before you travel UT-9 over to I-15 north for the four-hour drive home, you may want to stop in at MeMe’s Cafe (975 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, 435-772-0114, MemesCafeZion.com). Whether morning, noon, or night, MeMe’s is known for crepes. Popular combos include
“Momma’s Favorite”—Nutella, banana, chocolate drizzle, powdered sugar and whipped cream—or the “Savory”—cheese, spinach with roasted red-pepper aioli. In the spring, summer and fall, Bryce Canyon and Zion are places where the world can come to marvel at nature’s majestic beauty. In the winter months, they are still there, but this time to be used as a playground for Utahns. December 2018 / January 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 15
Utahns love their Vegas time—minus the desert heat
JR MANUEL
Chills and thrills in Las Vegas
BY KATHLEEN CURRY & GEOFF GRIFFIN
P
art of the allure of Las Vegas is that it offers things that you can’t find back home. During the winter months, perhaps the biggest draw is the Nevada sunshine. With average daily highs around 60 degrees and night-time lows staying above freezing, the short drive or flight to Vegas is a no-brainer from December through February. In addition to all of the usual shows, restaurants, clubs and nightlife that are on display year-round and 24/7, Las Vegas is also home to unique events during the winter months. Head south for sunshine and consider these options.
Outdoors
Since you’re going for the rays, why not soak them in with some outdoor recreation? Hoover Dam (USBR.gov/lc/hooverdam) and Lake Mead National Recreation Area (NPS.gov/lake) are just about an hour’s drive away and offer a paddler’s paradise. Consider canoe and kayak adventures along the 12-mile stretch of the Black Canyon on the Colorado River (beginning at the base of Hoover Dam), biking the historic tunnel trail and kayaking at Lake Mead—all with Desert Adventures (KayakLasVegas.com ) And if you’d rather leave the driving to somebody else, call Pink Jeep Tours (800-873-3662, PinkAdventureTours.com). They’ll pick you up at your hotel and take you as far away as the Grand Canyon and Death Valley. Ride in style in a specially designed pink “Tour Trekker” with up to 10 guests.
Chinese New Year
Chinese New Year, also known as Lunar New Year, begins on Feb. 5, 2019, to celebrate the Year of the Pig. There will be celebrations around the city for two weeks, including traditional decorations, dining, dancing and ceremonies, highlighted by the Las Vegas Spring Festival Parade (CNYInTheDesert.com/parade) on Saturday, Feb. 9. The procession starts at the intersection of Fremont Street and 11th Street, and goes through the downtown area and the Fremont East Entertainment District (FremontEast.com) before ending at a full-day festival held at the Downtown Container Park (DowntownContainerPark. com), an area of shops and restaurants housed in shipping containers. 16 | Vamoose Utah • December 2018 / January 2019
Sports
While Salt Lake is home to the NBA’s Jazz basketball team, to experience another North American pro sports league—the NHL— you need only take a short drive or flight to Las Vegas to see the Golden Knights (NHL.com/goldenknights) in action. The Knights surprised everybody by making a run to the Stanley Cup Finals during their very first season in 2017-18. They also made a splash with their pre-game parties held just off the strip outside of the TMobile Arena (3780 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Las Vegas, 702-692-1600, T-MobileArena.com). Vegas-style pre-game shows and a drum corps are outfitted to light up while they play. The Knights have a total of 21 home games from December through February, including Dec. 22 vs. Montreal, Dec. 23 vs. Los Angeles, Dec. 27 vs. Colorado and Jan. 1 vs. Los Angeles again. Games are also scheduled on Martin Luther King Jr. and Presidents Day weekends. The T-Mobile Arena will also play host to the highly anticipated UFC 232 (UFC.com) on Dec. 29. The night will be highlighted by a light-heavyweight title fight between Jon Jones and Alexander Gustafsson and a women’s featherweight title fight between Amanda Nunes and Cris Cyborg.
Music
In a town full of concerts, stars and venues, perhaps the biggest splash this winter will be made by Lady Gaga, as she begins a Las Vegas residency on Dec. 28 at MGM Park Theater (3770 S. Las Vegas Blvd., 844-600-7275, MGMResorts.com) with two very different shows available to her fans. Lady Gaga Enigma will have the sort of over-the-top theatrics you’d expect, while a few Jazz & Piano dates will focus on standards such as those she did with Tony Bennett in 2014 as well as piano-only renditions of her own songs. Enigma runs Dec. 28, 30, 31; Jan. 17, 19, 24, 26, 31; and Feb. 2. Jazz & Piano will run Jan. 20 and Feb. 3. Lady Gaga will also make appearances in the same theater with the same shows in May, June, October and November.
INSAPPHOWETRUST
New Year’s Eve in Vegas
America’s Party
Finally, no discussion of Vegas in winter is complete without a mention of a New Year’s Eve celebration so big it has its own name: “America’s Party.” The Strip shuts down and 300,000 people gather along the four-mile stretch to watch a fireworks show at midnight. Enjoy choreographed displays launched from nearby rooftops. Tips: The upper floors of parking garages are great places to view the fireworks. For the best views, ride the High Roller Observation Wheel, or plant yourself in the Foundation Room atop Mandalay Bay or the SkyFall Lounge on the 64th floor of the Delano Las Vegas. Be prepared for crowds and cool temps. It’s permissible to consume alcoholic beverages on the street as long as they’re not in metal or glass containers. For public transportation along the Strip, take the Las Vegas Monorail, trains run until about 3 a.m. Off the Strip, another option is to spend NYE downtown at the Fremont Street Experience (VegasExperience.com/nye). Tickets to the event get you into a party that includes 12 bands on three stages, an EDM stage with dancers and aerialists, light shows on the world’s largest video screen featuring bands and a year in review, roaming entertainment and onstage pyrotechnic displays. Concerts run from 6 p.m. till 3:30 a.m. Tickets purchased before Christmas for this adults-only event are $35 and will increase after that date. Let the Nevada sunshine lure you south of Salt Lake and across the state line. When it’s cold and frigid in northern Utah, remember that you’re a mere six-hour drive from the hottest events in the Entertainment Capital of the World.
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HOLIDAY LIGHTS, VEGAS STYLE COMPILED BY ANNA KASER & JERRE WROBLE
V
isiting Las Vegas this time of year, you’ll find no shortage of holiday cheer. And here you thought that Sin City wouldn’t be the kind of place to take the kids for a drive at night to see the pretty lights. Wrong! Check out a few of Vegas’ more colorful holiday shows (many of which are free).
Bellagio Fountains and Conservatory
A must-see attraction whenever you visit Las Vegas, the Fountains at Bellagio pull out all the stops for the holidays when more than 1,000 fountains, lights and music are choreographed around classic holiday tunes. The free shows run daily with shows beginning in the afternoon and running every 30 minutes. Then at 8 p.m. (7 p.m. on Sundays), the shows run every 15 minutes until midnight. Also, from Dec. 1-Jan. 6, the gardens at the Bellagio Conservatory become a winter wonderland of twinkling lights, poinsettias and a 40-foot-high Christmas tree with more than 7,000 lights and 2,500 ornaments. Enjoy live holiday performances nightly from 4:30-6 p.m. at the Victorian Gazebo in the South Garden. Admission is free. The Conservatory is open 24 hours a day from Dec. 2 till Jan. 6. (JW) Bellagio Hotel & Casino, 3600 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Las Vegas 702-693-7111, Bellagio.com
Glittering Lights
Glittering Lights, located at Las Vegas Motor Speedway, is one way to keep warm while enjoying the holiday lights. Over the years, Winterland Inc., which produces the show, has become a leading company for drive-through light parks. With tickets ranging from $20 to $30 per day, you can take a whole carload of kids on a 2.5 mile course through the speedway, intertwined with more than 3 million LED lights—a holiday experience they won’t soon forget. (AK) Las Vegas Motor Speedway, 7000 Las Vegas Boulevard North Las Vegas, 702-222-9777, GlitteringLightsLasVegas.com
Winter PARQ at the LINQ Promenade
The LINQ Promenade is a popular open-air entertainment and shopping district located between The LINQ Hotel & Casino and Flamingo Las Vegas. During winter months, its walkways become a winter wonderland of carolers, holiday music and decorations. Catch the hourly light shows made up of thousands of LED lights set to popular music, the 35-foot tree, and the High Roller Observation Wheel that stands at 550 feet tall. A holiday show with singers, dancers and show girls takes place on the Fountain stage nightly from 6:30-10:30 p.m. throughout most of December, where it “snows” every hour from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. (AK) LINQ Promenade, 3545 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Las Vegas 702-322-0550, Caesars.com/linq/promenade/things-to-do
Holiday Cactus Garden
Open nightly from 5-8 p.m., Ethel M. Chocolates Factory, owned by the makers of M&M’s candies, adorns its three-acre cactus garden with more than a million holiday lights. This colorful (and free) celebration features chocolate houses and scuptures, live chocolate demonstrations, photos with Santa, choir performances, balloon artists and more. Only a 15-minute drive from the Strip, Ethel M’s is the perfect quick getaway for the whole family. (AK) Ethel M’s Chocolates Factory, 2 Cactus Garden Dr., Henderson, 800-438-4356, display open through Jan. 1, EthelM.com
The Fountains at Bellagio
18 | Vamoose Utah • December 2018 / January 2019
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December 2018 / January 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 19
SEEING THE
FOREST
Pando aspen grove in Fishlake National Forest
Threatened by climate change, a Utah aspen grove may be here only today, gone tomorrow STORY & PHOTOS BY CHRIS VANOCUR
20 | Vamoose Utah • December 2018 / January 2019
C
limate change is changing the way I travel. I can no longer visit a place and simply see it as it is. Instead, I imagine how that place will look in 10 or 20 years. Perhaps, in the future, that place won’t even exist at all. On a recent trip to Norway, I caught myself wondering if picturesque fjord towns will survive the planet’s rising waters. In Japan, I worried about changing climate conditions creating more typhoons. And, yes, even in Utah, I am now viewing scenic places in the future tense, not just the present or the past. Pando is one such place. It’s one of the names for the breathtaking aspen grove in the Fishlake National Forest. It’s been a bit trendy to write about lately, with plenty of local articles featuring these lovely trees. Even The New York Times Magazine featured some amazing pictures of it earlier this year. But I didn’t make the four-hour drive from Salt Lake to fill your head with the usual recitation of Pando facts: that there are more than 47,000 trees, that
Pando is believed to be the largest organism in the world
it is a “clonal” grove with trees having identical genetics and interconnected roots, or that it is believed to be the largest organism in the world. No, I wanted to see Pando because I wasn’t sure how much longer it would be around. Various threats, including drought, have prompted concern about the future of these magnificent aspens. As I viewed them through concerned climate-change glasses, I couldn’t help but notice how some trees are already being fenced off to protect them from nature’s ills. However, thinking about climate change while traveling isn’t the downer it might seem to be. I now find myself focusing even more intently on Earth’s treasures. The possible demise of an area serves to draw me in even closer. I find myself appreciating these places more precisely because they are threatened. In fact, this is exactly what happened when I was taking pictures of Pando’s beautiful fall colors. A slight breeze blew through the aspens behind me. I turned around just in time to see and hear the rustling of golden leaves.
“I find myself appreciating these places more precisely because they are threatened.” —Chris Vanocur
December 2018 / January 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 21
Called “The Trembling Giant,” the grove’s rustling leaves make a heavenly noise
This is the magical sound of quaking aspens. This is why Pando is also known as the “trembling giant.” Such a heavenly natural noise filled me with awe. But it also made me a bit melancholy as I pictured a muted world without these trees. If you don’t make it to Pando in the spring, summer or fall, winter remains an option. While the colorful aspen leaves may not be there, a Forest Service worker told me the area is actually quite appealing during Utah’s colder months. There is snowmobiling, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and ice fishing. And if you’re worried about getting there, don’t be. I was told the southern part of State Road 25 that runs through Pando is plowed and open during the winter (but the northern section is not). If you’re thinking about a long weekend trip, Capitol Reef is also just a red stone’s throw away. Overnighting in Torrey gave me an excuse to try out the Southwest fusion cuisine of Cafe Diablo (599 W. Main St., Torrey, 435-425-3070, CafeDiablo.com), which unfortunately will be on hiatus should you try to dine there mid-November through the end of March. But you’ll find other local eateries in Torrey worth checking out over the winter.
As I prepared to say goodbye to Pando, my thoughts turned to a New York Times article I had read just days before heading to Fishlake. It was about the beloved baobab trees of Senegal. They are also being threatened by climate change. It’s estimated Senegal has lost 50 percent of its baobab population in the last half century. I couldn’t help but think these old and wise African trees were spiritually connected to the aspens of Pando. They both possess a certain indescribable beauty, not to mention uncertain fates. Looking at and listening to Utah’s Pando, I was struck by another wistful thought. Like the Trembling Giant before me, I, too, might be in the autumn of my life. Nearing 60, my branches have also begun shedding their leaves and, like the aspens and the baobabs, my roots aren’t as strong as they used to be. Who knows how many travel adventures I have left in store. But there is one not-so-insignificant blessing here. My advancing years, along with the awareness that climate change brings, have given me a more heightened and appreciative way of looking at and loving the world in which we live. Simply put, this new perspective has allowed me to see the forest for the trees.
Beautiful, no matter the season
22 | Vamoose Utah • December 2018 / January 2019
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Looking northwest toward Fish Creek Cove. The site is located at the base of the distant outcropping
The discovery of rock art at Fish Creek Cove gave the Fremont culture its name STORY AND PHOTOS BY JERRY D. SPANGLER or a thousand years—beginning about AD 200—give or take a couple of centuries—almost the entire state of Utah north of the Colorado River was home to what archaeologists call the Fremont culture, a name applied to ancients who were especially adept at shifting their subsistence between farming, hunting and gathering wild plants. They also left behind rock art images that rank among the best anywhere in the world. Fremont is simply a name that archaeologists use to communicate with each other and the public. We don’t know what they called themselves, and we don’t know for certain what became of them, although DNA tests suggest some were related to Puebloan peoples of modern-day Arizona and New Mexico. So why are they called by the very nonNative American name Fremont? We have to go back to 1928 to find the answer to that 24 | Vamoose Utah • December 2018 / January 2019
question. That was the year that the Peabody Museum at Harvard University launched the first of four expeditions to explore the canyons north of the Colorado River, a region at that time rumored to be rich in spectacular ruins. In 1928, most members of the Peabody Museum expedition mounted their horses and set off to explore Boulder Mountain and the Kaiparowits Plateau. But one member, Noel Morss, remained behind in Torrey (just outside of Capitol Reef National Park) and, with the help of local residents, began excavating alcoves along the Fremont River. Those excavations led Morss to write an influential monograph titled Ancient Culture of the Fremont River in Utah. Most of Morss’ monograph was based on his excavations at Fish Creek Cove, a picturesque shelter located on the backside of the Cocks Comb south of Torrey, in between Teasdale on the west and Grover on the east.
The shelter was well known to locals, many of whom had added their own names and dates to the shelter walls. Morss’ excavations were exhaustive: Some historic photos depict massive pits perhaps 6 feet deep. The most striking feature at Fish Creek Cove is a row of nearly life-size red, fourlegged critters that are missing their heads. And for added effect, the ancient artists deftly added drops of red pigment that seems to depict dripping blood. The areas where the heads would have been rubbed smooth, as if a head had once been there only to be erased, perhaps as part of rituals. There is nothing quite like this site anywhere else. Morss uncovered evidence that Fish Creek Cove was likely occupied repeatedly, probably over a long period of time given that thousands upon thousands of artifacts were present here. He also uncovered the remains of various structures, all indicative of a small community of no more than a few families.
Locals visiting Fish Creek Cove (their ancestors were also here, leaving their own names on the rocks, alongside the ancient rock art)
An archaeologist documents the rock art site (note the animals missing their heads)
An arrowhead of white chert recovered during testing. It is now at the Natural History Museum of Utah Fish Creek Cove would have been an idyllic setting: It is south-facing and would have been warm in the winter; it is close to Fish Creek and its Spring Branch tributary, a source of permanent water even during droughts; and there were places along the creeks and perhaps in the sage flats where they could have cultivated maize, even though the 7,000-foot elevation would have made it difficult. Several years ago, archaeologists—myself among them—revisited Fish Creek Cove, and we obtained several radiocarbon dates, all representing activities between AD 900 and 1150, or near the end of the Fremont occupation in central Utah. And we found that even though Morss had been quite thorough, important information remains here for study by future scientists. Fish Creek Cove, located on public lands administered by the Bureau of Land Management, remains a popular destination for
A classic Fremont pictograph panel with a trapezoidal human figure. The round shield figures are believed to date to about AD 1050-1100, which is consistent with the corncob radiocarbon dates found at the site Wayne County residents who still marvel at the mysterious rock art images where meaning has been lost to the passage of time. To visit the site, drive south from Torrey on Highway 12 about 3 miles and take the turnoff on your right to Teasdale. Go about a mile and look for a turnoff on the south side of the road (Fish Creek Cove Road on maps, but it’s easy to miss on the highway). Proceed south on this narrow dirt road about a mile to the pullouts at the end of the dirt road and then follow the trail about 50 yards to the site itself. The road, which provides access to a cluster of homes just east of Fish Creek Cove, does not require four-wheel drive, but it can be rough after bad weather, and higher clearance cars are recommended. There are a few spurs off the dirt road that lead to residences, but just stay right. Fish Creek Cove has seen 140 years of graffiti and vandalism, some of it quite recent.
Never add your own names, dates, or other inscriptions. Artifacts such as potsherds and stone flakes are also abundant here. It is certainly acceptable to photograph them, but it is a federal crime to remove them. This site is protected by federal laws intended to preserve these resources for future generations. Local residents and site stewards are friendly, but they also keep a watchful eye. For those thirsting for more detailed information on Fish Creek Cove, Noel Morss’ 1931 monograph is still in print and available on Amazon.
Jerry D. Spangler is an archaeologist and executive director of the Colorado Plateau Archaeological Alliance, a non-profit dedicated to protecting cultural resources on public lands in the West. December 2018 / January 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 25
FOTOGRAFIERENDE - UNSPLASH
Lolita author and butterfly enthusiast Vladimir Nabokov
F Russian novelist Vladimir Nabokov may be most famous for Lolita but Utahns can thank him for their pug BY JOHN RASMUSON
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or some, Vladimir Nabokov’s Lolita is the greatest novel of the 20th century. For others, Lolita is an unredeemed story told by a pedophile named Humbert. The fact that the book has Utah roots is another story, but it’s more about road trips and butterflies than nymphets and illicit sex. The back story is the novelist himself. The son of Russian nobility who fled the Bolsheviks for Europe, Nabokov had published nine books in the Russian language before settling in Massachusetts in 1940 at the age of 44. He taught literature courses at Wellesley College, but his abiding interest was lepidopterology. Among his credits is the butterfly collection at Harvard’s Museum of Comparative Zoology.
COURTESY OF ALTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY / ALTA LODGE
Alta Lodge 1945, where Nabokov stayed in the ‘40s
UTAH’S BACK COUNTRY GEAR CHOICE
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The Vladimir Nabokov collection at Nabokov House in Saint Petersburg
brown one that now bears his name: Nabokov’s Pug (Eupithecia nabokovi.) It was a “blessed black night in the Wasatch Range,” he wrote in his autobiography. A writers’ conference brought Nabokov back to Salt Lake City in 1949. Ten years had passed since “the first throb of Lolita went through me,” and he had begun to draft the novel. He wrote in English as his wife drove the blue highways through the Western United States in pursuit of butterflies. The handwritten manuscript was finished in Ashland,
JOHN RASMUSON
Eupithecia nabokovi
ALEX BAKHAREV
© JIM VARGO - MOTHPHOTOGRAPHERSGROUP
Eupithecia nabokovi : The pug that Nabokov found at Alta Lodge in 1943
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On a road trip from Massachusetts to California in 1941, Vladimir Nabokov lodged in Santa Fe’s el Rey Motel, a favorite of Nabokov’s as he criss-crossed the West and “frantically collected butterflies.” It remains in business to this day.
Ore., in 1954. It was published in France in 1955 after being rejected by U.S. publishers. Nabokov returned to Utah in 1956 to hunt butterflies and work on Pnin, his 13th novel. He rented artist Maynard Dixon’s cabin in Mount Carmel, 20 miles west of Zion National Park near the Virgin River. The log cabin is now part of the Maynard Dixon Living History Museum. Lolita was finally published in the U. S. in 1958. It vaulted to the top of The New York Times best-seller list. Overnight, Nabokov became a
CBG PHOTOGRAPHY GROUP, CENTRE FOR BIODIVERSITY GENOMICS
The pursuit of butterflies caused him to crisscross the United States 13 times between 1941 and 1958, logging 200,000 miles on two-lane highways like Route 89. According to Robert Roper’s Nabokov in America, he was drawn to “motor courts that cost a dollar or two a night, in towns so patly, Americanly themselves that a visitor had to smile.” Nabokov’s road trips brought him to New Mexico and Arizona in 1941 and to Utah for the first time in the summer of 1943 where he rented a room at the four-year-old Alta Lodge. The road trip is an American tradition that has generated its own canon. Think of writers John Steinbeck, Jack Kerouac and William Least Heat Moon. Journalist Charles Kuralt ran six RVs into the ground while reporting from “On the Road” for CBS News. Nabokov’s road trips were devoted to hunting butterflies, but they were also the basis of the fictional travels through “the lovely, trustful, dreamy, enormous country” in Lolita. Some forgotten motor court is reimagined as “a motel called Poplar Shade in Utah, where six pubescent trees were scarcely taller than my Lolita,” reports Humbert. At least two of the motels Nabokov visited still operate: Corral Lodges in Afton, Wyo., and el Rey Court in Santa Fe, N.M. Nabokov’s sojourn in Little Cottonwood Canyon was significant for another reason. There, among the “marmots and the Mormons,” Roper writes, Nabokov realized a boyhood dream—to catch and name a theretofore unknown Common Pug moth (Eupithecia vulgata). On Aug. 1, 1943, using a light to attract insects to the lodge windows, he caught a mottled
well-to-do celebrity. He made no more summer road trips after 1958 and moved to Switzerland in 1961 where he died in 1977. During his road trips to Utah over the years, Nabokov estimated that he hiked 600 miles in the Wasatch Mountains while stalking moths and butterflies. To mark the 50th anniversary of his novel’s publication, shall we take a cue from Azar Nafisi’s 2003 best-seller, Reading Lolita in Tehran, and make for Alta’s meadows and marmots, Nabokov’s masterwork in hand?
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BACKCOUNTRY
GIFTS FOR THE OUTDOOR COOK Ten nifty ways to be gifty BY ANNA KASER
D
ifferent types of camping call for specialized cooking gear. We only have so much room in our backpacks, tents or cars, and we can only carry so much weight. Deciding on camp-cook gear also depends on one’s style. Are you traditional? Are you high-tech? Do you cook for large groups or is it just for you and a companion? There are countless gadgets and doodads on offer these days that make for an outstanding outdoor camping cooking experience. How do you narrow the choices? Since camping and outdoor cooking are my passions, I’m only too happy to sift through the websites and catalogs of outdoor retailers to provide suggestions for the outdoor foodie in your life.
GSI Outdoor Destination Kitchen
This 24-piece set is just under 2 pounds and has everything you need for food prep in the wild: spatula, serving spoon, salt and pepper shaker, cutting board, utensils and more. When backpacking or even car camping, every bit of space is precious, and this expertly packed set represents the wave of the future. Plus, it’s a fun surprise to open it up and find more than you expected. REI Salt Lake, 3285 E. 3300 South, SLC, 801-486-2100, REI.com, $49.95
Jetboil
Founded in 2001, Jetboil continues to show up on many a camp cook’s “must-have” list. Ultra light and easy to use, Jetboil helps prepare hot drinks as well as dehydrated meals. Just connect the small propane tank to your Jetboil and, within seconds, you have boiling hot water. Lots of camp-cooking systems can be clunky or difficult to use, but not the Jetboil. If you need to save space and weight on backpacking trips, this product is essential. REI Salt Lake, 3285 E. 3300 South, SLC, 801-486-2100, REI.com, $99.95
Cast-Iron Dutch Oven
The Utah State Cooking Pot is, you guessed it, the Dutch oven. Something about our pioneer heritage has made the cast-iron pot a Utah staple. Many Utahns remember camping as children and experiencing the wonder of digging up the Dutch oven after it cooked over coals in the ground. Oh, those aromas wafting through the air after opening! Get back to the basics with your own piece of history. Barebones Living, 1215 E. Wilmington Ave., Ste. 140, SLC, 801-649-3088 BarebonesLiving.com, $56
Optimus Terra Kettle
The water kettle has been a kitchen and camping staple since before the Vikings arrived. Hot water is essential in cooking and cleaning at camp. And like many other items on this list, this kettle is simple and without frills, yet sturdy and reliable. Made from anodized aluminum, this kettle can take anything you throw at it. You can even use it to pack cooking items inside the kettle on your journey. Recreation Outlet, 3160 S. State, SLC, 801-484-4800, RecreationOutlet.com, $19.95
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Monogrammed Steak Brand
OK, it’s not a necessity. And it won’t save you from starving on a mountain. It is, however, kind of fun. Monogrammed towels are all well and good, but this is even better. You don’t even have to use your initials—how about your favorite string of letters? Have some fun with it! You’ll feel powerful stamping your name on a juicy steak or, for our vegetarian friends, a grilled portobello mushroom or eggplant. Williams-Sonoma, 312 Trolley Square, SLC, 801-359-0459, Williams-Sonoma.com, $49.95
Yeti Roadie 20 Cooler
As a camper, keeping your perishables cool is vital. Whether it’s beer or raw meat, every camper needs a cooler that will not only retain ice as long as possible but can withstand the elements. The average backyard cooler can be dented or suffer broken latches, but a Yeti can tolerate rough treatment. It’s built to be sturdy and durable, making it one of the most reliable choices for any camper. REI Salt Lake, 3285 E. 3300 South, SLC, 801-486-2100, REI.com, $200
Good to-Go Food
Started by Jennifer Scism, a chef from 4-star-rated restaurants and lover of regional food, Good to-Go food is known as one of the best dehydrated and healthy food options. After seeking delicious food options for her backcountry trips, Scism started making her own, and soon her gourmet food company, based in Maine, took off. These handmade meals do not disappoint in either convenience or flavor. Good to-Go Food, 844-484-8646, GoodTo-go.com , $12.95
MSR Quick 2 System
With two cooking pots, deep plates and insulated mugs, this camp cook set packs down to a surprisingly small size. Whether you’re backpacking or car camping, this cook-set gives you all the basics while simultaneously saving you room for other necessities. Made with quality materials and by a company that prides itself on customer service, you can count on this set to last. Kirkham’s Outdoor Products, 3125 S. State, SLC, 801-486-4161, Kirkhams.com, $99.95
Salt Free Grill & Broil Gift Box
Just because you’re cooking in the rough doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice flavor. These appetizing blends are salt-free and include meat, poultry and fish seasonings for summertime grilling or winter broiling. As one of Penzeys most popular gifts, this boxed set will make the cooks in your life happy because their cooking will not only taste better but will be lower in salt. Penzeys spices began in Wauwatosa, Wis., in 1957 and soon became the go-to in the area for spices of any kind. The Salt Lake Valley now has its own Penzeys for every cook’s at-home and away-from-home needs. Penzeys Spices, 280 E. 12300 South, Draper, 801-666-7557, Penzeys.com, $49.95
Primus Profile Stove
With the variety of cooking options it provides along with the ability to fold it into a compact unit, this stove receives consistently strong reviews. Not only does it have a strong flame—12,000 BTUs strong—but also a windshield to protect that flame. You’re also not limited to one type of cooking as you can use the griddle or the open flame. So, leave the campfire for warming your hands, and use this camp stove for cooking. Recreation Outlet, 3160 S. State, SLC, 801-484-4800, RecreationOutlet.com, $89.99
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SOUTHERN
COMFORT
Take a volunteering vacation and make some new
MOLLY WALD - BEST FRIENDS ANIMAL SOCIETY
Best Friends Animal Sanctuary entrance
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imosabe. Those old enough will recall the term that Tonto called the Lone Ranger in his native tongue, a phrase thought to be from the Ojibwa language, meaning “trusted scout” or “best friend.” It’s not surprising, then, that on a recent visit to the feel-good capital of Utah, Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, my wife, Karen, and I encountered our own kimosabe. As one of the largest no-kill refuges of companion animals in the world, Best Friends is anything but tamed. Located just outside Kanab and surrounded by southwestern Utah’s most iconic wilderness landscapes, the facility makes it easy to enjoy red-rock splendor and do some good for its 1,600 rescued animals at the same time. The landscape is, in fact, one of the primary reasons thousands of Best Friends’ volunteers keep coming back year after year to work with dogs and other animals such as cats, horses, goats, ducks and the like. Nowhere is volunteering such an aesthetically pleasing experience, especially when accompanied by one of the residents of DogParrot mealtime
Best Friends
KURT BUDDE - BEST FRIENDS ANIMAL SOCIETY
BY RED OELERICH
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MOLLY WALD - BEST FRIENDS ANIMAL SOCIETY
Taking a break above Angel Canyon
area, sustaining a multitude of wildlife that live in or pass through the canyon. From there, the trail traverses the side of Angel Canyon toward the cliffs before veering into a side canyon, where the ruins of an Anasazi kiva squats inside one of the many Angel Canyon alcoves. The trail climbs upward past spiraling rock formations and follows a spring before ending at a pour-off in the cliffs—where flash floods are often funneled into the canyon. It’s easy to roam from there along the slick rock to the east rim of Angel Canyon, where gorgeous vistas open up and down the canyon and out toward the White Cliffs. Water and time sculpted this magnificent landscape, and an easy jaunt into yet another side canyon reveals another way water behaves here. As snow has piled up over countless winters, the melt has seeped through the porous sandstone rock and dripped into a subterranean chasm known as the “underground lake.” A short path lined with gamble oaks leads into a gaping hole at the bottom of a cliff, and the water inside is from snow that fell hundreds, perhaps thousands, of years ago. It’s a refreshingly cool place to bring dogs on a warm day. The sanctuary lends itself nicely to exploration if you don’t mind finding your own way around. Following deer trails, bushwhacking along the canyon bottom or walking up and down the creek, you never know what you and your chosen dog may find. You may even stumble across an Anasazi petroglyph, pictograph or ruin, or spot a hawk’s nest perched on a cliff ledge. It’s not unusual to encounter a gaggle of wild turkeys that fly down each evening from the rim of Angel Canyon to roost in the cottonwoods. Above Angels Rest
MOLLY WALD - BEST FRIENDS ANIMAL SOCIETY
town, the care center at Best Friends, where pups and mature dogs wait, and hope, for adoption to a good and loving home. The sanctuary depends on vacationing volunteers, and its website (BestFriends. org/sanctuary/volunteer) includes information about their voluteer program along with suggestions for nearby lodging and dining. Though not within the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, the 3,700 acres that comprises Best Friends may as well be. The focal point of the sanctuary is Angel Canyon, carved through one of the step-like terraces that define the monument. Walls of caramelcolored cliffs line both sides of the canyon, leading in and out of steep side canyons that beckon exploration. From the rim of the canyon, an incredible vista of the monument’s brawny White Cliffs encircling the sanctuary to the north is there for the gazing. If the scenery here appears faintly familiar, it’s because you’ve probably seen it before —on the small and big screens. The Lone Ranger TV series was shot in Angel Canyon, as were numerous scenes from The Outlaw Josey Wales and the Disney movie, One Little Indian. Offering a break from the parched desert heat, Kanab Creek runs a sinuous course through Angel Canyon, its banks dense with cottonwoods, cattails, willows and bird life. At one stretch, the creek channels through about 12 feet of sheer rock—a favored destination for dog outings. The short, but exhilarating Water Canyon hike from the Best Friends Welcome Center is one of the more thrilling ways to sample the canyon. Along the way, you and your canine companion can dawdle in Kanab Creek and relish one of the few perennial streams in the
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Angels Landing natural amphitheater
COURTESY OF BEST FRIENDS ANIMAL SOCIETY
A good starting point (or lunch spot) for a hike through the canyon is Angels Landing, a natural amphitheater set within the cool, shady recesses of a domed-shape rock alcove. The acoustics are stellar here, making this an ideal setting for the occasional concert Best Friends hosts. Caregivers often bring dogs here to conduct some training or simply to have a quiet moment away from the hubbub of Dogtown. This is also the setting of the animal cemetery. Thousands of tiny graves of dogs and cats that have lived out their lives here and passed away peacefully. Impossible to not be emotionally moved.
Wild turkeys drop by for a visit
MOLLY WALD - BEST FRIENDS ANIMAL SOCIETY
Red and Karen Oelerich with Kimosabe
CARL OELERICH
Whichever way you decide to experience Best Friends Animal Sanctuary or its environs, there’s a canine companion or two at the sanctuary willing and waiting to experience the landscape with you. There’s no more gratifying way to do it. And, after bonding, your hiking partner is available and willing to be adopted. On our last visit there, after the nearly impossible task of choosing, my wife and I settled on a 2-week old puppy from the Navajo reservation. Naming him was a no-brainer—our new “best friend”: Kimosabe.
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For ways to donate, subscribe or volunteer, visit: Best Friends Animal Society 5001 Angel Canyon Road, Kanab 435-644-2001 BestFriends.org
LAST
LOOK A wintery byway at Best Friends Animal Sanctuary in Kanab Photo by Kurt Budde
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