Vamoose Fall 2018

VOL.4 NO.4 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2018

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Postcards From

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JACKSON HOLE

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Inside

VAMOOSE AUGUST/SEPTEMBER

VISIT JACKSON HOLE

A dusting of early fall snow on the Tetons

9

BE BATS 20 HERE Exploring Idaho’s haunting Craters

WEEKEND WARRIOR

Upscale Jackson Hole has a surprisingly budget-friendly side

By Kathleen Curry & Geoff Griffin

FROM 26 POSTCARDS THE EDGE

of the Moon National Monument

Straddling the state line on US-89 from Cokeville to Alpine

By Chris Vanocur

By Darby Doyle

17

IDAHO ODDITIES No weirder than Utah, but weird nonetheless

DARBY DOYLE

By Kathleen Curry & Geoff Griffin

COLOR VERDE 30 THE What to do with your BLM

peck of peppers

POWER 24 PEDAL More and more Utah riders are SPORST

getting a charge from electric bikes

4 | Vamoose Utah • August/September 2018

By Heather May

By Ari LeVaux

HOLE 32 JACKSON YOUR HORSES

Get acquainted with some of the area’s most iconic residents

By Vaughn Robison

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VOL.4 NO.4 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER

CONTRIBUTORS GET OUT | GET GOING | JUST GO

STAFF PUBLISHER

John Saltas

EDITORIAL

EDITOR COPY EDITOR PROOFREADER CONTRIBUTORS

PHOTOGRAPHER

Jerre Wroble Sarah Arnoff Lance Gudmundsen Kathleen Curry, Darby Doyle, Geoff Griffin, Ari LeVaux, Heather May, Vaughn Robison, Chris Vanocur

Heather May is a long-time Salt Lake Citybased reporter who covers food, travel and health for various publications. She has won numerous awards and previously was editor of Vamoose’s sister publication, Devour Utah.

Eleni Saltas

PRODUCTION ART DIRECTOR GRAPHIC ARTIST

Vaughn Robison Sofia Cifuentes, Brian Plummer, Josh Scheuerman

BUSINESS/OFFICE ASSOCIATE BUSINESS MANAGER OFFICE ADMINISTRATORS TECHNICAL DIRECTOR

Paula Saltas David Adamson, Anna Kaser Bryan Mannos

MARKETING MARKETING & EVENTS COORDINATOR

Samantha Smith

CIRCULATION CIRCULATION MANAGER

Eric Granato

SALES VICE PRESIDENT, NEW BUSINESS MAGAZINE ADVERTISING DIRECTOR NEWSPRINT ADVERTISING DIRECTOR DIGITAL OPERATIONS MANAGER SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES RETAIL ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Chris Vanocur is a freelance writer and

journalist living in Salt Lake. He has been honored with both the Peabody and duPontColumbia University awards. Dubbed the “Selfie king,” his writing and photography have appeared in a number of publications.

Sam Urie Jennifer Van Grevenhof Pete Saltas Anna Papadakis Doug Kruithof, Kathy Mueller Anne Bailey, Eric Brock, Alex Markham, Mieka Sawatzki, Jeremiah Smith

COVER IMAGE: FLYFISHING AT SCHWABAKER BEAVER PONDS ALONG THE SNAKE RIVER IN GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK

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COPPERFIELD PUBLISHING, INC • COPYRIGHT 2018. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED @vamooseutah

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6 | Vamoose Utah • August/September 2018

@vamooseutah

Former wilderness ranger and recovering archaeologist Darby Doyle writes about food, cocktails and outdoor adventures from her home base in the foothills of Utah’s Wasatch Mountains. She’s the proud mama of teenage boys, goofy Labradors and a gaggle of backyard hens.

VISIT JACKSON HOLE

EE COPY

Get

WILD

Bull moose—the world’s largest species of deer—shed their antlers each year, usually in the late fall

It’s no secret that Salt Lakers live at the epicenter of adventure.

Heading south, we cherish our red-rocks trails, national parks and shady slot canyons. East, we flock to trout-filled lakes, historic forts, wineries and legalized marijuana. West is the direction of fabulous casinos and world-class entertainment.

But for this edition of Vamoose, we head north to the mountain majesty of Jackson Hole, Wyo., and the many destinations en route that make the journey such a kick.

Jackson Hole is a ski-resort town that, off-season, becomes a magnet for adventurers wanting to explore national parks, glimpse wildlife and drink in the breathtaking colors of late summer/early fall. The lush, verdant wilds of Wyoming are the perfect antidote for those of us who’ve endured a sweltering hot summer along the Wasatch Front. While Jackson caters to those with big checkbooks, Geoff Griffin and Kathleen Curry have devised an itinerary that allows you and your family to drill down to Jackson’s historic cowboy roots and experience an authentic (and affordable) Western vacation.

From trail rides to pack trips to rodeos, no visit to Jackson is complete without close encounters of the equine kind. Vaughn Robison, our art director (who happens to be a champion horse rider himself), highlights the many ways to connect with horses on a visit to northwest Wyoming.

And since it’s all about the journey, not the destination, Griffin and Curry also highlight the quirky Idaho museums and roadside attractions to visit en route to Jackson.

Darby Doyle captures the picture-postcard moments along old highway 89, the one that hugs the state line between Idaho and Wyoming.

This month, Chris Vanocur wrote about his road trip to the strange hinterlands of Idaho’s Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve where he managed to find massive lava tubes, lava fields, cinder and splatter cones but thankfully no bats.

And as the popularity of electric bikes surges, Heather May writes about how to experience the rush of getting around town (and country) via “Pedal Power.”

Finally, this is the time of year when chile peppers are ripe and ready to enjoy. In our Backcountry Chef feature, Ari LeVaux’s chile verde recipe will help you utilize the tomatillos, jalapenos and Poblano or Anaheim chiles from your garden or any of those found while traipsing around the farmers market. This spicy dish will be a hit at any end-of-summer picnics or tailgates on your calendar.

It’s hard to surpass the adventure we have at our fingertips. We can’t go wrong, no matter what road we take. But before the summer ends, the roads that head north.

A visit to Jackson Hole serves to remind us why we love living in the West.

—Jerre Wroble Editor

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We’re always on the lookout for freelance writers and interns.

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eekend arrior

Family

FURLOUGH

UPSCALE JACKSON HOLE HAS A SURPRISINGLY BUDGET-FRIENDLY SIDE

By Kathleen Curry & Geoff Griffin

J

ackson Hole is the place where the world’s central bankers gather every summer for a symposium about money, money, money. It’s also a place to find an affordable family vacation with a variety of activities that kids will love. With wildlife, picturesque landscapes, Western shows, starry nights, fun food options, a mountain playground and even a children’s museum, Jackson has something to offer kids of all ages. Check out this suggested itinerary.

August/September 2018 • Vamoose Utah | 9

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There are three main ways to get to Jackson from Salt Lake City, all taking just under five hours. One way is to head east on Interstate 80, which will bring you to Evanston about 90 minutes into the trip. Jody’s Diner (260 Bear River Drive, 307-789-8550, JodysDiner.com) has a great reputation for serving country roadside classics like pot roast and chicken fried steak. What you’ll love about it on a family trip is that it’s right off a freeway exit and offers a full children’s menu that includes breakfast served all day.

From Evanston, hop on U.S. 89 north, which turns into UT-16 and UT-30 as you veer back into Utah to go through Woodruff and Randall. Keep heading north as UT-30 becomes U.S. 30 as you crisscross back into Wyoming and then becomes U.S. 89 as you drive along the Wyoming/Idaho state line before eventually heading east to Jackson.

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10 | Vamoose Utah • August/September 2018

CONNOR KUNTZ

TO SEE ONE OF OUR KENWOOD, JENSEN OR PIONEER MODELS

Night JACKSON HOLE AREA

When it comes to where to stay, the Jackson area has many choices depending on what you’re looking for in terms of price, activities, location and whether you want an outdoor experience.

OK, we get it that a luxury resort like the Four Seasons (7680 Granite Loop Road, 307-732-5000, Teton Village, FourSeasons.com/jacksonhole) doesn’t exactly scream “budget family travel,” but you might want to consider making a splurge when you find out kids under 18 stay free and can participate in their kid’s club.

If you want to be in town and need to feed a large group, Homewood Suites (260 N. Millward St., 307-739-0808, HomewoodSuites3.hilton.com) can help you out with complimentary breakfasts, and its suites come with refrigerators and microwaves. Throw in a pool and playground, and the whole family is happy.

FOUR SEASONS RESORT AND RESIDENCES

Four Seasons Resort Jackson Hole

Arrive early for a campsite at Grand Teton National Park

Or, for the full experience of camping in Grand Teton National Park, go to NPS.gov/grte, scroll down and click on the “Find A Campground” link. You’ll find links to six campgrounds, most of which do not take reservations and operate on first-come, first-served basis.

Most fill up by 10 a.m., so plan to get there early.

August/September 2018 • Vamoose Utah | 11

Friday

••••

Morning JACKSON HOLE TO GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK

Grab breakfast at the Virginian Restaurant (740 W. Broadway, 307-733-4330, VirginianRestaurant.net) to start the day. They’ve got all the breakfast basics kids want, and you can please your adult palate by trying chiliquillas—a layer of breakfast potatoes topped with eggs, chorizo and every good Mexican topping you can think of.

Before you head out of town to the great outdoors, plan ahead for lunch by stopping at Creekside Market & Deli (545 N. Cache St., 307-733-7926, CreeksideJacksonHole. com) to grab sandwiches made fresh to order, snacks and drinks for a picnic lunch while out in nature.

You have two choices for your wilderness adventure, and either way you can create a memorable family experience. At Grand Teton National Park (NPS.gov/grte), children can earn a Junior Ranger patch or badge by taking the Grand Adventure. Just check in at any visitor center, and engage in a variety of activities, including a ranger-led program, to fill the day and earn the reward. Don’t let the kids know, but they’ll actually be learning something while exploring nature.

The National Elk Refuge (FWS.gov/refuge) has a similar program where kids can earn a Blue Goose patch (the Blue Goose is the symbol of the National Wildlife Refuge System) by completing a booklet that can be picked up at the visitor center.

USFWS / BJ BAKER

12 | Vamoose Utah • August/September 2018

Grand Teton National Park is a world-renowned fly-fishing destination

COURTESY OF VISIT JACKSON HOLE

COURTESY OF VISIT JACKSON HOLE

For older kids, know that Grand Teton National Park is a world-renowned flyfishing destination. Its unspoiled waterways are home to the Snake River fine-spotted cutthroat trout. Consider bringing your own fly gear and fishing the Snake River tributaries within the park (a Wyoming fishing license is required). If you need more guidance, consider booking with one of the park’s licensed guides such as Grand Teton Fly Fishing (225 W. Broadway, 307-6900910, GrandTetonFlyFishing.com)

Kids earn badges at national parks and wildlife refuges while learning and exploring nature

Xxxxxx Xxxx x

PIZZERIA CALDERA

USFWS

Before leaving, consider taking the Inner Park Loop Road.

Late August through late September are optimal times for leaf peeping, and views along this 20-some mile road that winds under nearly all of the park’s major peaks will take your breath away. Cost: Nothing—it comes with the territory.

Pizzeria Caldera

Night DOWNTOWN JACKSON

Pizza is always a kid-pleaser, and Pizzeria Caldera (20 W. Broadway, 307-201-1472, PizzeriaCaldera.com) is Jackson’s first stonehearth-oven pizza joint serving thin-crust Napolitana-style pies. If you’re feeling adventurous, try the Bisonte, topped with housemade bison sausage.

The restaurant is located right off Jackson Town Square, site of the Town Square Shootout, a re-enactment of the Old West held every evening except Sunday at 6 p.m. You won’t be able to keep the kids away from checking out the arches at each end of the park that are made entirely of elk antlers. Don’t worry, no elk were harmed in the making of the arches.

They shed them naturally.

From the Square, it’s just a five-minute walk to the lawn at the Center for the Arts (265 S. Cache St., 307-734-8956, JHCenterForTheArts.org) where Wyoming Stargazing (844-996-7827, WyomingStargazing.org) offers a free public stargazing program every clear Friday night through September from 9:30-11:30 p.m. Dress warmly.

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HALFOFFJH.COM August/September 2018 • Vamoose Utah | 13

Saturday

Morning

TETON SCIENCE SCHOOLS

Forage for your breakfast at the Jackson Hole Farmers Market

JACKSON HOLE FARMERS MARKET

••••

Teton Science Schools sunrise tour

DOWNTOWN JACKSON

Get up early to take the sunrise tour with Teton Science Schools (700 Coyote Canyon Road, 307-733-1313, TetonScience.org) to get a look at the incredible wildlife in the Jackson area. The four-hour expedition pairs you with a knowledgeable naturalist driving a customized safari vehicle. They’ll bring binoculars along with antlers, skins and skulls and a kid’s guidebook. Sunrise is one of the best times to find the animals out and about and TSS even provides coffee, cocoa and snacks.

Or if you’re more in the mood to forage for your breakfast, you might find something tasty while wandering around the Jackson Hole Farmers Market (Jackson Town Square, 10 E. Broadway, 307413-6323, JacksonHoleFarmersMarket.com) which runs every Saturday through Sept. 22, from 8 a.m. to noon.

Afternoon JACKSON HOLE RESORT

It might be a ski destination in the winter, but in the summer, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (3395 Cody Lane, Teton Village, 307-733-2292, JacksonHole.com) is home to Grand Adventure Park featuring activities children love—a ropes course, bike park, lookout tower and a climbing wall. Purchasing a pass to the park also gets you unlimited tram and gondola rides. Find lunch on-site at Tin Can Cantina, a food truck that sits at the base of Bridger Gondola and serves casual Mexican food with fresh salsa and guacamole.

14 | Vamoose Utah • August/September 2018

Jackson Hole Bike Pa

COURTESY OF JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT

COURTESY OF JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT

Ropes course at Teton Village Grand Adventure Park

ark

Night WILSON

Give the family dinner and a show at the Bar J Chuckwagon Supper & Western Music Show (4200 W. Bar J Chuckwagon Road, Wilson, 307-733-3370, BarJChuckWagon. com). The buffet-style barbecue dinners feature beef, chicken or ribs that come in children’s sizes; kids who are “lap size” eat free.

After the meal, sit back and listen to the Bar J Wranglers put on a show centered on Western music mixed in with plenty of comedy and clapping along.

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HALFOFFJH.COM August/September 2018 • Vamoose Utah | 15

Sunday

Snow King Mountain Resort’s Cowboy Coaster

SNOW KING MOUNTAIN

••••

Morning

Afternoon JACKSON TO LAVA HOT SPRINGS

Take one of the two routes home that take you into southern Idaho and eventually put you heading south on the Interstate 15. Both take you right by Lava Hot Springs, where your family can find another adventure. (See p. 18.)

16 | Vamoose Utah • August/September 2018

Jackson Hole Children’s Museum

Ice cream stop at Lava Hot Springs VISIT IDAHO

A barbecue joint might not be the first place you think of for breakfast, but Bubba’s Bar-B-Que Restaurant (100 Flat Creek Drive, 307-733-2288, BubbasJH.com) serves up a menu that includes breakfast street tacos and house-smoked salmon Benedict for the parents. Don’t worry, there’s plenty of plain pancakes and French toast to keep the most finicky of kids happy.

Before you head out of town, make a stop at the Jackson Hole Children’s Museum, (174 N. King St., 307-73 3-3996, JHChildrensMuseum. org), which opens at 10 a.m. on Sundays.

Kids can “play-create-explore” in a variety of exhibits including an imagination playground.

Or take one final adventure at Snow King Mountain Resort (402 E. Snow King Ave., 307-201-5464, SnowKingMountain.com) on the Cowboy Coaster, an Alpine ride covering more than 400 vertical feet and then hurtling downhill on 3,295 feet of track.

ASHLEY MERRITT PHOTOGRAPHY

JACKSON

Idaho

ODDITIES

The “Devil Boat” in Arco, Idaho

NO WEIRDER THAN UTAH, BUT WEIRD NONETHELESS

By Kathleen Curry & Geoff Griffin

Anyone who has spent any amount of time in Utah understands that this is a wonderfully weird place.

From funeral potatoes to “dirty sodas,” you can declare the Beehive State an oddball, and that’s without even bringing up the topic of religion.

Delightful differences don’t just end at the state line. Our Idaho neighbors to the north like to be uniquely unusual in their own ways. After all, the just-over-the-border southern Idaho town of Preston was where Napoleon Dynamite lived. If you want to get your quirk on across state lines, consider these one-of-a-kind offerings in southern Idaho that are close enough for a day trip, but enjoyable enough that you might want to make them a weekend getaway.

August/September 2018 • Vamoose Utah | 17

HOT SPRINGS, COOL PRICE

VISIT IDAHO

Lava Hot Springs water slides

Ride the Lava Zipline

VISIT IDAHO

Lava Hot Springs (430 E. Main, 800-4238597, LavaHotSprings.com) is both the name of a town and the No. 1 activity in that town located just a couple of hours drive from Salt Lake City. There are naturally occurring hot springs with water that has no chemicals, sulfur or odor feeding into five pools with natural temperatures ranging from 102-112 degrees Fahrenheit.

That’s unique enough in and of itself, but what’s really weird is that in this notably conservative area of the country, instead of letting private interests buy up the hot springs and build up luxury resorts charging people big money to access the waters, the good people of the area decided they’d rather have the hot springs available to everyone.

In 1902, they turned everything over to the state government. What that means for you in 2018 is that you can go soak in the springs for the ridiculously low price of $6 for adults Monday through Thursday and $10 on the weekends.

While you’re in town, Riverwalk Thai Food (695 E. Main 208-776-5872) is run by Thai immigrants who operate their successful restaurant in a converted side-of-theroad gas station. It draws people to drive from hours away just to get the pad Thai. Ask your friends in New York City or Los Angeles if they’ve got one of those nearby.

Speaking of one-of-a-kind experiences, when was the last time you rode down Main Street in a huge Army truck? That’s just the first part of the adventure when you book with Lava Zipline (155 E. Main, 208-5891734, LavaZipline.com). The truck takes your crew to a mountain spot outside of town where you can spend three hours riding ziplines and navigating ropes courses in a gorgeous outdoor setting.

PAGING MR. CLEAN

Drive 35 miles northwest from Lava Hot Springs and you’ll find the town of Pocatello, home to the Museum of Clean (711 S. 2nd Ave., 208-236-6906, MuseumOfClean.com), a 75,000-square-foot, six-story building devoted to the “ultimate goal” of being able “to put Clean in the minds of all who visit.” It houses multiple exhibits, including the world’s largest collection of vacuum cleaners, as well as hands-on activities that kids will love. Let your inner obsessivecompulsive run wild!

From Pocatello, head another half-hour north on Interstate 15 to Blackfoot, drive down Main Street and be on the lookout for a gigantic baked potato loaded with sour cream and butter sitting outside a 1912 stone railroad depot. When you find it, you’re at the Idaho Potato Museum. (130 Northwest Main, 208-785-2517, IdahoPotatoMuseum.com) Sure, there’s lots of potato history, but if we’re being honest, the biggest reason to visit is to check out Potato Station Cafe. In addition to the obvious choices of fries and a baked potato bar, you can also find potato bread, potato cupcakes and even potato ice cream.

18 | Vamoose Utah • August/September 2018

Don’t forget the Potato Station Cafe’s baked potato bar

SPORST

SPUD CITY

Arco’s nuclear power plant was the world’s first and is now a National Historic Landmark

IDAHO NATIONAL LABRATORY

ATOMS AND SATAN

Did you know that the first ever atomic power plant was in Idaho? Heading northwest out of Blackfoot on U.S. 26 for an hour brings you to the town of Arco. You’re still only a 3½-hour drive from Salt Lake.

Arco is home to Idaho National Laboratory and Experimental Breeder Reactor No. 1 (EBR-1). In 1951, it became the first power plant to produce electricity using atomic energy. It’s been shut down since 1963 and was named a National Historic Landmark in 1966. Visit the website www4vip.INL.gov/ebr to learn how to take a self-guided tour of the site, including going into the control room.

Just don’t touch any buttons!

As you are driving along U.S. 26 in Arco, you’ll also drive by what is known as both The Devil Boat and The Submarine in the Desert, located at 400 S. Front St. in Arco (AtlasObscura.com/places/the-devil-boat).

It’s the preserved sail of the submarine USS Hawkbill, which happened to have the hull number of 666. Large and black, it’s hard to miss since it looks like a submarine rising out of the grass.

Being an oddball knows no boundaries.

Don’t let state lines stop you from relishing in the weirdness of our Idaho cousins.

August/September 2018 • Vamoose Utah | 19

Here Be

BATS

EXPLORING THE HAUNTING LANDSCAPE OF IDAHO’S CRATERS OF THE MOON BLM

By Chris Vanocur

This is how one 19th-century visitor described the lava fields of south-central Idaho, the area which would become Craters of the Moon National Monument & Preserve.

But, as I have often said, black vomit is in the eye of the beholder.

Craters of the Moon is indeed full of strange, dark and vomitous-looking rocks.

This gives it, as the area’s name implies, a very unique lunar look. Gazing out over thousands of acres of blackened landscape, you see a geological and volcanic wonderland.

Sadly, being neither a geologist nor a vulcanologist, here is my half-baked explanation for why the monument looks the way it does.

It has a lot to do with lava. Lava gets a lot of love in this area. You will find lava buttes, lava flows and lava tubes. And where there’s lava, can volcanoes be far behind? On display here are both cinder and spatter cones. Near as I can tell, cinder volcanic cones can be fairly big, while the more diminutive spatter cones might be more accurately described as “fun-sized.”

Impressed with my scientific writing so far? Just wait. The monument’s unusual features and appearance come from events that took place thousands of years ago.

While I was just a child then, I’m told it has to do with lots of pressure, eruptions, the ground being stretched and magma. Magma is, of course, molten rock that’s underground (it becomes lava when it gets above ground).

Magma, however, should never be confused with MAGA. Now, in addition to magma, lava and volcanic fragments, you will find a number of caves at Craters. Notice I said “you” will find caves. This stems from the fact I refused to look for them. While caves, per se, aren’t necessarily bad, it’s the creatures that live inside them that I have issues with. Yes, I am referring to bats, and bats freak me out. They’re sinister-looking creatures of the night that can carry serious viruses as well as your typical assortment of STDs (allegedly).

20 | Vamoose Utah • August/September 2018

BLM

“It’s like black vomit from the bowels of the earth.”

Entering a large lava tube at Craters of the Moon National Monument & Preserve

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Lava fields created from the Great Rift of Idaho 22 | Vamoose Utah • August/September 2018

(Now, in the spirit of full disclosure, I don’t have any scientific evidence that proves bats are purveyors of STDs. They just seem the type.)

Anyway, as I was saying, Craters of the Moon is really cool. As I drove along the seven-mile-loop road, I was pleasantly surprised to see so many splashes of color. The tiny spring flowers of early June were in bloom. A magnificent yellow bird flew alongside my car for part of the journey (I have a minor in ornithology). Also, many of the volcanic rocks were dotted with mysterious specks of color that I surmised might be lichen (slow-growing plants).

My neighbor, who happens to be a geologist, told me Craters of the Moon is still “geologically active.” This means there could be more black vomit and bowels in its future. All of which brings us to our 30th president. For the first and last time, let me quote Calvin Coolidge. When he used the Antiquities Act in 1924 to designate Craters of the Moon as a national monument, Coolidge reportedly described the area as “a weird and scenic landscape, peculiar to itself.”

And while I hate to use any facts in my stories, the Craters landscape is unusual enough that, decades later, Apollo astronauts visited the monument as part of their lunar training. (Since much of the moon’s surface is covered by volcanic materials, astronauts needed to know something about the lava they would encounter so they could bring back the most scientifically valuable specimens.)

To my (un)trained geological and scientific eye, this “peculiar” monument didn’t make me think of the moon. Instead, it unearthed (pun intended) a long-lost childhood memory. As I made my way

TOM ASKEW/BLM

BLM

Craters of the Moon National Monument lava tubes

BLM

around the monument, I thought about the Island of Misfit Toys, which was a refuge for odd and unwanted Christmas presents in the 1960s stop-motion-animation classic Rudolf the Red-Nosed Reindeer. While Craters might not have the jaw-dropping beauty of the Grand Canyon or Yosemite, it does have a certain charm. It’s different, misshapen and a bit of an ugly duckling. Its imperfections are relatable, very much worthy of our admiration and love. Just like the misfit toys.

Now, to placate my demanding editor, I will end with some useful information about visiting Craters of the Moon. It’s about a fourhour drive from Salt Lake City. There isn’t necessarily a lot of lodging nearby, so I overnighted in Ketchum, Idaho, where I found a nice affordable hotel and some quality food (and wine). In the morning, I made a leisurely hour and a half drive to the monument.

While it may sound “batty” to say so, I would heartily recommend adding some black vomit to your summer schedule.

Colorful lichen growing on lava rock at Craters of the Moon

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MADE IN UTAH

PHOTOS COURTESY OF PEDEGO ELECTRIC BIKES

Electric bikes typically travel at speeds of 20 mph

PEDAL POWER MORE AND MORE UTAH RIDERS ARE GETTING A CHARGE FROM ELECTRIC BIKES

By Heather May

To some, electric bikes seem like the equivalent of taking an ATV on a hike.

Turns out, that’s a pretty pedestrian argument. Manufacturers of motorized bicycles devote web pages to debunking the myths of ebikes, including that they’re for lazy cheaters.

If sales are any indication, plenty of consumers have zipped by that critique like a commuter using pedal assist bypasses a cyclist using nothing but lung and leg power.

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MADSEN CYCLES

Electric cargo bikes, those with buckets in the front or back to haul kids or groceries, are seeing a boost this year.

—David Rasmussen, eSpokes

One recent study predict the global market for e-bikes will jump from $15.7 billion in revenue in 2016 to $24.3 billion by 2025.

In Utah, the number of e-bike shops has expanded from an initial two in 2012 to at least seven. Most, if not all, traditional bike shops carry e-bikes, including Bingham Cyclery, Contender Bicycles and Guthrie Bicycle Co. now that well-known brands like Specialized and Trek offer them.

“The Salt Lake market has lagged behind the rest of the country for a few years. 2018 is the year we are catching up,” says David Rasmussen, owner of eSpokes, which opened in South Jordan in 2012 as Utah’s first electric-bike shop. “We don’t have to sell ebikes [anymore].”

They practically sell themselves. Sales were up 50 percent last year and he predicts the same growth rate this year.

E-bikes work in a couple of ways: There’s pedal assist, which gives extra oomph as you cycle. Or, there’s a throttle, which does all the work. Many bikes offer both. Fully charged, they have up to a 60-mile range.

Most commonly, the e-bikes go up to 20 mph, though 28 mph is also permitted with some restrictions. Utah law treats e-bikes like traditional ones, allowing them on bike paths and mountain bike trails, except in Park City, where they’re prohibited on the mountain. Children can ride them, too, though those under 8 can’t ride on public property, and kids must be supervised up to age 14.

Teens must be at least 16 to ride the 28 mph ones.

Prices start at $2,000. While expensive, the bikes are cheaper than cars and don’t require a license, registration or insurance.

That’s helped drive the demand internationally, along with urbanization, traffic congestion and environmental consciousness.

E-bikes are cleaner than cars, getting the electrical equivalent of 1,000 miles per gallon, according to a Forbes comparison.

Hard-core cyclists likely won’t seek or want the assist, but the less athletic find them a great re-introduction to biking with the ability to go farther than they would ever attempt on a regular bike, shop owners say.

“It’s making cycling more prominent for people who didn’t think they could cycle,” says Zach Selby, who recently opened the state’s newest e-bike shop, Pedego Electric Bikes, in Salt Lake City.

“We’re getting 70-year-olds on this thing.”

He and co-owner Shawn Berger mention customers with knee or hip or heart problems.

“I would love to have some way to having my wife right next to me,” says Marty Curtis, a 59-year-old self-described bike enthusiast. He was browsing Pedego’s selection, thinking about buying one for his wife so she could keep up with him on his rides.

Other shoppers like the option to ride to work without breaking a sweat, and then pedaling home for a workout.

“The ability to commute here in this valley on an e-bike is fantastic,” Rasmussen says, noting that he’s sold bikes to commuters traveling around 25 miles each way, including himself. “I wear my regular clothes. I can be sweaty, but I can also not be. It’s my choice. It takes longer than a car but you can do it faster than on a train.”

Lifestyle bikes are still the most popular—the ones used to ride around the neighborhood or on bike paths. Mountain bikes are having a moment, for the cyclists who go for the thrill of pedaling down.

And Rasmussen says electric cargo bikes are seeing a big boost this year. Those are bikes with buckets in the front or back to haul kids or groceries.

Utah bicycle manufacturer Madsen Cycles, which builds and sells cargo bikes, is offering pedal-assist kits starting this summer as an upgrade to past and current customers, for $1,200 to $1,300.

“Kids grow up and get heavy, adults get older and less fit,” company president Lisa Madsen writes in an email. “The e-assist helps both.”

The extra help, insists Pedego’s Selby, makes biking fun again.

And isn’t that the point?

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Postcards From

THE EDGE

STRADDLING THE STATE LINE ALONG HIGHWAY 89, COKEVILLE TO ALPINE

Photos and story by Darby Doyle

Over the years, our family has explored about every route out of our home base of Salt Lake City Hands-down, our favorite off-the-interstate route is old U.S. Highway 89, especially the section north of Bear Lake that weaves along the Bear River and Salt River valleys. It jumps from Utah to Idaho then into Wyoming en route to Jackson. This stretch of highway is a hidden gem and worthy of exploration beyond a quick stop on the way to the big parks up north. We always plan to get in a little fly fishing, make a pit stop for ice cream, impress the kiddos with our knowledge of mountain history (cue eyerolls), and even end the day with gorgeous dog-friendly patio and cold brewery-fresh beer in hand. Here are some snapshots from our most recent adventure, heading from south to north.

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GREETINGS FROM COKEVILLE MEADOWS NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE!

We got out to stretch our legs on this short walkway loop just past the Utah/Wyoming line north of the Highway 30/89 junction, and we’re glad we brought our binoculars! We saw tons of sandhill cranes, American bitterns, ibis, terns, mule deer and pronghorn antelope in these beautiful wetlands and marshes along the Bear River. FWS.gov/refuge/Cokeville_Meadows

SALT RIVER PASS SCENIC VIEWPOINT | ELEVATION 7,610

This view boasts spectacular views of the Salt River, Star Valley and the Salt River Mountain Range. The spot also memorializes the Lander Cutoff of the Oregon Trail, noting the 1857 Pacific Wagon Road Act to construct safe (or at least passable) wagon roads for settlers traveling west through the fledgling territories. Traveling north on Highway 89, we saw historical markers noting where the current highway crosses over the old trail, which was named after Frederick W. Lander, the man in charge of the road’s construction.

DETOUR FOR ICE CREAM AT SHUMWAY FARMS These sixth-generation dairy farmers have opened their farm to visitors and have a small store selling raw milk, farm-fresh eggs, beef and pork. Their biggest hit, though, is the selection of ice creams named after local landmarks and seasonal themes (coconut and fudge-swirled Holstein Supreme; chocolate, mint and Oreo-cookie chunked Hunting Season that cleverly mimics the pattern of camo). Check the website for seasonal hours of operation.

It’s located one mile west of Highway 89 at the corner of Bowles Lane and Highway 241, just north of Smoot.

Shumway Farms, 2325 Highway 241, Afton, Wyo., 307-885-0110, shumwayfarms.com

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HUNTING SHEDS Before you take up the antlercollecting hobby yourself, check the local regulations: Wyoming (and Utah and Idaho) prohibits shed collection during certain times of the year, usually late winter through early spring. According to the Wyoming Game and Fish website, “Big game animals that concentrate on winter ranges during the late winter and early spring are usually in poor body condition. Human disturbances, like shed antler hunting, contribute to additional losses of fat reserves, which directly affects their survival.” Check local regs to see if you need to apply for a collection permit before starting your shed hunt.

AFTON ARCH

Built in 1958 over Afton’s Main Street, this iconic span claims the title of being the world’s largest elk-antler arch. Vegetarians take note: large game animals like elk, deer and moose naturally shed their antlers in the winter, growing a new rack over the course of several months in the spring and summer. Locals contribute to the arch with their excess collected during the shed hunt season.

FLY SHOPS ARE YOUR FRIENDS Want to get away from the crowds?

Hire a guide to get you into the sweet spots, or stop by a fly shop to see where they recommend fishing lowerpressure areas and to check on current river conditions. Often, these helpful folks also have maps and know-how to suggest great hikes in the area, too. It’s always a classy move to buy a few flies or a spool of line in thanks for the tips.

IN AFTON Feathered Hook 1348 KenningtonBurton Lane, 888-359-3474, FeatheredHook.com Altitude Outdoors 290 S. Washington St., 307-885-8008, AltitudeOutdoors.com

FLY FISHING THE SALT RIVER AND GREY’S RIVER

With the rivers running so high and fast this past spring, we didn’t get much fishing in, but the dogs enjoyed a good swim. We’ve had so much good luck on these rivers we can’t pass up the chance to throw our lines in the water, just in case. We talked to local 18-year veteran fly-fishing guide Jason Morris from Feathered Hook in Afton about where we should try fishing next time.

We’re pretty tempted to book a trip with him to check out a rare opportunity to fish sections from almost 100 miles of private stream access. Now to decide: Do we want to go in by foot, horseback or by drift boat?

IN ALPINE Pioneer Anglers 80 Highway 89, 307-654-3330, PioneerAnglers.com Greys River Sports 106 Greys River Road, 307-654-3474, GreysRiverSports.com

WHERE CAN I FISH? Look for public access signs off of Highway 89, which lead to well-maintained gravel parking lots with easy public river access (and most have restrooms); do not access waterways via private property. All anglers age 14 and over must have a valid Wyoming fishing license on their person, available at many grocery stores and all fly shops (pro tip: check out current regulations for gear and limits before you go, and purchase and print licenses from home at WGFD.Wyo.gov). During peak summer season, the rivers can get pretty crowded with anglers.

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CHEERS FROM MELVIN BREWING!

After a long day of exploring, we pulled into the parking lot of the Melvin brewery and taproom and knew we were at the right place when we saw muddy mountain bikes in racks on every vehicle in the lot. The brewing assistant on duty even gave me a quick tour of the brewery while the boys took our dogs for a dip in the nearby Palisades Reservoir. Melvin’s sunny patio was the perfect dogand kid-friendly spot for the grownups to relax with an award-winning Double IPA and some spicy wings. The kiddos loved the huge soft pretzel with dipping sauces.

Melvin Brewing Taproom, 624 County Road 101, Alpine, 307–654-0427, MelvinBrewing.com

MOUNTAIN BIKING CENTRAL The mountainous terrain of the Bridger-Teton National Forest hosts recreationalists of all stripes: hikers, bikers, ATV enthusiasts and horseback trail riders. We often see all these uses in play when we camp off the Greys River Road (CR 10138), which makes for quick access to great hiking and mountain biking.

The Covey Cutoff Trail from the Meadows Guard Station, which gains about 5,000 feet of elevation and is notoriously rocky, gets a lot of buzz just because of its cycling degree of difficulty. Full disclosure: I’ve never done this trail myself and am in awe of the stories I’ve heard about it.

For free maps of the area and trail guides, make a stop at the BridgerTeton National Forest visitor center in Alpine before you hit the hills. Or do a little research before you go by downloading mountain biking area and specific trail info at: FS.USDA. gov/activity/btnf/recreation/ bicycling Visitor Center/Alpine Civic Center, 121 Highway 89, Alpine, 307-654-0249

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BACKCOUNTRY

The Color

VERDE WHAT TO DO WITH YOUR PECK OF PEPPERS

By Ari LeVaux

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I mean no disrespect to the crunchy slice of pepper in your salad. But it doesn’t change my opinion: peppers are one of the few types of produce that improve with age.

There are exceptions, of course. Without jalapeño slices, a fresh salsa wears no pants.

In the heat-seeking nation of Bhutan, fresh hot peppers are sautéed in cheese, to great rejoicing. But most of the peppers I consume are not fresh, and this is not a problem.

Late summer and early fall are when pepper plants adorn themselves with their rainbow-colored fruits, so now is a good time to think about what to do with them. Peppers can be stabilized and preserved more or less as-is, or they can be incorporated into sauces and other complex products for later use.

Thin-skinned peppers are the easiest to deal with. Assuming they are completely ripe, they don’t need much. Just string them with a needle and thread and hang them in a spot with good air circulation or lay them out in ventilated racks or on screens. Under proper conditions, they can be forgotten on

the windowsill and turn out fine. Once dry, they can be kept in sealed plastic bags until needed. They can be crushed and used in myriad ways or be rehydrated and made into sauce.

Thick-skinned peppers, either hot or sweet, can’t be dried like the thin-skinned varieties because they’ll rot. These fleshy peppers can be either pickled or roasted and then frozen.

Pickle them in a brine of half vinegar and half water, with the vinegar portion being half apple cider vinegar and half white vinegar, with sugar to taste. Each quart gets a teaspoon of salt and a tablespoon of mustard seeds. Any amount of carrots can be added to the jars.

To roast hot or sweet peppers, put them under the broiler or on the grill, turning regularly until the skins blister. Cool, pack them in bags, and freeze with the skins on. They can be used down the road in sauces, on burgers or as a tasty garnish. The folks at Harmons sell chiles by the bushel every Friday and Saturday at all stores starting in August and running through Labor Day. Stocked away in your freezer, those pungent, spicy pods will be available year-round when you need them.

Those are the easy ways of doing it, if you are swamped with peppers and short on time. But if you have surpluses of other ingredients, and the time to deal with them, you can incorporate your peppers into something else entirely. Today I’ll discuss using chiles to help preserve tomatillos.

This meaty sauce, called chile verde, can be canned or frozen. I’m giving you this recipe because, around here anyway, farmers seem to grow a lot more tomatillos than anyone knows what to do with. Any form of chile, including fresh, dried, pickled and roasted, can be used in this dish. Vegetarians and salsa-vores can skip the meat and call it salsa verde.

I’ve based this recipe around one pound of tomatillos, but it makes sense to do the largest batch you can. The quantities are loose. If you don’t have a blender or food processor, you’re in for a long day.

CHILE VERDE

Tangy Chile Verde

Ingredients 1 pound tomatillos ½ pound meat (typically pork, mutton or game) ½ pound chile peppers (the more variety, the better. Thinskinned varieties, either fresh or dried, are best. Too many thick-skinned peppers take the edge off the flavor.)

2 bunches cilantro 1 large onion ½ tablespoon cumin powder 1 tablespoon garlic powder Salt

ELENI SALTAS

Tough cuts of meat should be braised first, or otherwise softened with heat. I recently wrapped an elk shank in foil and cooked it for a few hours at 350 until it literally fell off the bone. Later, I used that shin bone to stir the pot, which was awesome. Tender cuts of meat can be cubed and added directly to the pot.

While the meat is cooking, prepare the tomatillos. If you have tons, soak them in a large bowl of water to make the peels easier to remove. Purée the tomatillos and pour into in a large kettle to slowly cook down.

Emphasis on slowly. I leave the stove on the absolute lowest setting, just warm enough to allow the excess moisture to steam away. It takes hours. Scrape the sides into the brew as it retreats.

How much you let it thicken is a matter of taste. The last batch I made included enough tomatillos to completely fill my 5-gallon kettle with purée, so I had to let it reduce quite a bit before I could add other ingredients. First, I added the meat, as well as the jus from the cooking pan. When there was space, I added the puréed onions. Then I added the chile, also puréed, along with garlic powder, cumin and salt, all to taste. While I love using whole cumin, it sinks to the bottom and can cause a scald spot, so powdered is advised.

Finally, purée the cilantro and stir it in. I also added my last pound of puréed tomatillos, to refresh the verde color, and give a bit of that fresh tomatillo flavor. I gave a final stir and called it good. It would finish cooking in the jars.

Pressure-can at 14 pounds of pressure for 40 minutes. If you don’t have the gear to do this, freeze your chile verde in bags. But don’t use a typical canning water bath; the meat, a “high risk” food, needs that pressure to make it safe to eat.

By this time, your kitchen might look like a Jackson Pollock painting, and your mouth and belly might be burning from too much sampling. But the chile is secure, floating in a meaty, tangy green, sterile medium. Or perhaps it’s dried and bagged in the pantry.

Either way, it will be there when we need it.

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JEFFREY KAPHAN

Saddle bronc riding at the Jackson Hole Rodeo

Jackson Hole

YOUR HORSES GET ACQUAINTED WITH NORTHWEST WYOMING’S MOST ICONIC RESIDENTS

By Vaughn Robison

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J

ackson Hole, like the Old West, is ever-changing. Once a place for cattle ranchers and dude wranglers, the valley now attracts jet-setting skiers, adventurers and vacationhome investors. Regardless of the mix of its residents, horses remain central to the community’s identity. Reverence for the horse in modern-day Jackson can be seen on any walk around downtown. From the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar’s neon-rimmed bronc sign on Cache Street to the oil and charcoal iterations that line the walls of art galleries nestled between Deloney and Pearl avenues, equine iconography is celebrated here. Even east in Teton Village, ski lifts at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort are emblazoned with a bucking horse logo. And, of course, the state’s license plate has long featured a bucking bronc.

But beyond artistic renderings along downtown’s busy wooden boardwalks, Jackson is still a place where visitors and locals have plenty of tangible, exploratory ways to connect with living horses. Here are a few ways to get an equine fix.

JACKSON HOLE RODEO Close-to-town entertainment with action-packed performances The Jackson Hole Rodeo is a rarity, even by the standards of other Western towns. True, many towns host an entertaining rodeo or two during the summer months, but the Jackson Hole Rodeo puts on more than 35 action-packed events each season, with as many as three a week in the peak months of July and August. At each rodeo, spectators are treated to performances of all the standard rodeo events, including calf roping, rough stock riding and barrel racing.

This rodeo is also unique in that the cowboys and cowgirls aren’t today’s top rodeo stars making a stop along the high-dollar professional circuit. Instead, they’re the local Wilson family that’s been running the rodeo for more than 100 years. Many a local who’s made it big with their equine counterparts, or who has gone on to showcase his or her riding skills through eight seconds of bucks and turns on the national stage, got started and perfected techniques in front of Jackson visitors.

Located at the base of Snow King resort, the rodeo is an easy walk from downtown Jackson. The show runs rain or shine, starting at 8 p.m. with crowds arriving around 7:15 p.m. Show up early for good seating or reserve your seats in advance online. Tickets are $15; children 2 and younger are free.

Teton County Fairgrounds, 447 Snow King Ave., Jackson, Wyo., 307-733-7927, JHRodeo.com

GRAND TETON LODGE COMPANY

Trail ride beneath the peaks of the Tetons

Guides to consider Horse Creek Ranch Horses, not gunslingers, gather at the A-OK Corral, where the Horse Creek Ranch offers one- to three-hour horseback rides along mountain trails just south of Jackson Hole.

9600 S. Highway 89, Jackson, 307-733-6556, HorseCreekRanch.com TRAIL RIDES Easy, leisurely walks through the Tetons Taking in views of the Tetons and admiring its range of wildlife from horseback is a family-friendly event that’s easy to fit in to a weekend in Jackson and one that will be remembered for a lifetime. It’s the perfect way pacify the horse-crazy kids in the family while giving Dad an excuse to embarrass them as he recites classic John Wayne movie quotes from the saddle.

Guide services generally offer one- to four-hour rides at locations throughout the valley. Choose from riding through the Snake River Canyon, across the Bridger-Teton National Forest’s high-mountain meadows, and along pristine lakes under the shadow of the Tetons’ peaks, just to name a few. Guests are matched with a mount that suits their experience in the saddle, and even a timid first-time rider can find his or her gentle giant before hitting the trail with at least one wrangler who’ll serve as both tour guide and help riders navigate their horses along the way (though most services require kids on trail rides be 8 years old or older).

Many trail-ride services have started bundling their rides with other activities—from chuckwagon dinners to rafting trips—and are willing to accommodate special requests when booked in advance. In addition, visitors who want a horse-powered activity but might not looking for time in the saddle can take advantage of wagon rides available on many trail rides.

Grand Teton Lodge Co. Rides depart from Jackson Lake Lodge, Colter Bay Village, Headwaters Lodge and Jenny Lake Lodge Corrals. Beginners are welcome. They also offer wagon rides out of Colter Bay Village with breakfast or dinner.

307-543-2811, GTLC.com/activities/horseback-riding Dry Ridge Outfitters Dry Ridge Outfitters’ one- to four-hour trail rides are offered on the Idaho side of Teton Mountain Range in the Targhee National Forest. You’ll leave from the south side of Teton Valley, riding through aspen and lodgepole forests with views of the canyon, the Big Hole Mountain Range and Teton Basin. They also offer full-day extended trail rides in Wyoming, Idaho and Yellowstone.

Driggs, Idaho, 208-351-1796, DryRidge.com August/September 2018 • Vamoose Utah | 33

PACK TRIPS Multi-day backcountry multi-play options

adventures

with

Jackson Hole boasts some of the country’s most dramatic backcountry wilderness, where you’ll find unmatched camping, hiking and wildlife viewing as well as hunting and fishing opportunities. To get deep into and out of that gorgeous backcountry without a misadventure is an entirely different feat that might be best accomplished with expert guides. Being atop a horse while venturing into the backcountry (and bringing along a second horse to carry your gear) sure helps, too.

Not only do horses or mules relieve the burden of having to physically carry camp supplies for several days, but they also provides guests with hours in the saddle and the perfect vantage point for taking in the scenery. Most outfitter services in the area offer destination-based pack trips, where visitors ride to a campsite and stake out alongside their mounts for a day or two before saddling up and riding back to town. In addition, guides offer progressive trips, where the camp is broken down each day before packing it to the next predetermined campsite.

Worried about roughing it too much?

Camp generally consists of canvas tents to protect riders from the elements, often with stoves to provide extra warmth on cool nights and campfires around which guides cook gourmet meals for guests.

Based on the outfitter, pack trips span from one night to upward of a week and can be tailored to accommodate the guests’ interests. Pack trips connect riders to some of the most remote hunting and fishing terrain in the West, which means many outfitters now offer professional fly-fishing and hunting guides. Many even facilitate photography workshops and wildflower tours along the trail.

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SWIFT CREEK OUTFITTERS

Packing out into the Bridger-Teton National Forest

Castagno Outfitters The Castagno family runs a string of mountain-tested-and-approved horses and mules to access the rugged and remote areas of the Bridger-Teton and Shoshone national forests and the Fitzpatrick, Teton and Washakie wilderness areas that are prized for their big game hunting and angling opportunities. These outfitters go the extra mile for hospitality on their pack trips, from providing heated tents and family-style meals to professional dressing services for fish and game that guests harvest in the field.

25155 Buffalo Run, Moran, 877-559-3585, CastagnoOutfitters.com Shoal Creek Outfitters Shoal Creek Outfitters specializes in customizable pack trips for every level of rider looking for a world-class hunting or angling opportunity with guides and horses that are familiar with the extensive area they access. Guides share their insights on catching trophy trout in two unique drainage systems and a high mountain lake that is the head of Shoal Creek, as well as multi-species big game hunting in the Teton-Bridger National Forest and Gros Ventre Wilderness.

1893 N. Moose Wilson Road, Wilson, 307-413-1893, ShoalCreekOutfitters.com Swift Creek Outfitters Owned and operated by a family with six generations of backcountry experience, Swift Creek Outfitters runs a string of more than 100 horses and mules, all of which the family own and many of which they’ve raised themselves. Based between Teton and Yellowstone national parks north of the Moran Junction, Swift Creek’s pack trips depart to destinations in the bordering Bridger-Teton National Forest that include such scenic fishing areas as Pacific Creek, Two Ocean Pass, Bridger Lake and Yellowstone Meadow.

Moran, 307-856-1226, HorsebackAdv.com

Last

LOOK

A bison at the golden hour beneath the Tetons

COURTESY OF VISIT JACKSON HOLE

GET OUT, GET GOING AND JUST GO

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