edible WOW TM
The story on local food in Southeast Michigan
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Fall recipes feature local produce Detroit Schools take on
hunger
In the Kitchen
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Toasted Oak
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Member of Edible Communities
No. 20 Fall 2012
OCTOBER
IS AMERICAN CHEESE MONTH! SEPTEMBER
IS MICHIGAN’S BUY LOCAL MONTH! Join us for: The Homegrown Festival Sunday, Sept. 8 • 6-10pm
www.homegrownfestival.org
Farmers Market at the Capitol Thursday, Sept. 13 • 10am-3pm
www.miffs.org/CapitolFM/index.asp Vendor Demonstrations at the Creamery
www.zingermanscreamery.com
On the front lines of the American Cheese Revolution, we carry over 50 Americanmade artisan cheeses. Stop in for a taste!
Established in 2005 by Chef Alex Young of Zingerman’s Roadhouse, Cornman Farms is located on 42 acres of farmland in Dexter, MI. On the property sits an 19th century Greek revival farmhouse, historically renovated 1888 barn and beautiful tree-lined grounds and gardens. A perfect location for a wedding ceremony, rehearsal dinner, graduation or special event.
www.cheesesociety.org
NOVEMBER
GIVE THANKS LOCALLY We support Michigan Farms, Farmers Markets, and other American producers. There is no better way to give thanks for our great country than supporting small regional food producers. Visit our retail location to shop local!
3723 Plaza Drive • Ann Arbor, Michigan 48108 (734) 929-0500 • www.zingermanscreamery.com
Cornman Farms is booking now for its first events in April 2013. Please contact cornmanevents@zingermans.com to inquire about dates, pricing and catering.
Sunday, Sept 23 • noon- 2pm • On the Deli Patio
One of our most popular events! Three kinds of traditional paella—Chicken Chorizo, Seafood and Vegetarian, grilled over mesquite right before your eyes. Paella Presentation at noon: The show is free—the Paella is sold by the pound.
Nov 1 • 7pm • Zingerman’s Events on Fourth $50/person, $60/with beer • Sells out fast! Call 734.663.3400 to reserve
We invite local food lovers to help us complete the farm-to-table circle and enjoy the best food of the season with our friends from Tantré Farm. For more information, check us out at www.zingermansdeli.com.
422 Detroit St. • Ann Arbor, MI 48104 • Open daily 7am-10pm 734.663.DELI (3354) • www.zingermansdeli.com
2 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012 3
food for thought
edible WOW Publishers Kate & Robb Harper
I
Executive Editor Chris Hardman
am still full from sampling the delicacies of some 20 chefs at the Greening of Detroit’s Live Love Local celebration held at Eastern Market on
Calder and smiles from his staff will start any event off right. As Shed 5 began
Copy Editor Doug Adrianson
to fill up, my 9-year-old insisted that we stand in line twice for The Henry Ford’s
pork belly sandwiches.
Web Manager Jessie Harper
For the first time, edibleWOW joined in the planning and sponsoring of this
researched and edited recipes from local chefs for the recipe collection.
Writers Cara Catallo l Nina Misuraca Ignaczak Annette Kingsbury l Nicole Rupersburg
present the “Young Farmer of the Year Award” to Tomm and Trilby Becker of Sunseed Farm in Ann Arbor. They looked very surprised when we handed them receive consulting services from Whole Foods. We expect great things from this family as we do from all of our wonderful young farmers. Thanks to our panel of judges: Chef Alex Young of Zingerman’s Roadhouse;
Intern John McKenna
Flint Farmers’ Market and edibleWOW editors Pam Aughe and Chris Hardman.
Contact Us edible WOW P.O. Box 257, Birmingham, MI 48012 248-731-7578
What a pleasure it is to work with an organization such as the Greening of Detroit. We encourage all of our readers to visit their web site, attend their events and learn how they are making a better Detroit for all.
Advertising Sales Pam Aughe: pam@ediblewow.com Nancy Faralisz: nancy@ediblewow.com Robb Harper: robb@ediblewow.com
—Chris Hardman Executive Editor edibleWOW Magazine
Subscriptions Julie Blom Editorial Information
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edibleWOW is published quarterly by edibleWOW LLC. All rights reserved. Subscription rate is $28. No part of this publication may be reprinted or used in any way without written permission of the publisher. © 2012 Every effort has been made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.
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Find us on edibleWOW is printed on 20% recycled (10% postconsumer waste) paper. All inks used contain a percentage of soy base. Our printer meets or exceeds all federal Resource Conservation Recovery Act (RCRA) Standards. 4 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
Discover more recipes from our historical archives. Try them and rate them at thehenryford.org/food
RECIPE ContributORS Achatz Handmade Pie Company Pam Aughe, R.D. l Chef Lorraine Platman Chef Keli Lewton-Secondino Chef Mike Trombley l Curtis Wooten
Michelle Lutz of Henry Ford West Bloomfield Hospital; Dick Ramsdell of the
2011 James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year
From The Working Girl’s Own Cook Book, 1948
Photographers Joy Blumenau Bebry l Lisa Dunlap Kate Harper l John F. Martin Carole Topalian
Midway through the event, the staff of edibleWOW took to the stage to
a plaque and a cash award from Whole Foods and edibleWOW. They also will
Your recipe for Take a taste of history. Experience a time organic was the only way. Like us on American when Facebook for upcoming food event info. tradition. America’s Greatest History Attraction.
Layout and Design Susanne Dudzik
edibleWOW inspired vanilla blueberry swirl ice cream. A hug from John
talented and dedicated staff at the Greening, while Food Editor Pam Aughe
HALLOWE’EN IN GREENFIELD VILLAGE DINNER Oct. 12-13, 19-20 & 26-27 LOCAL ROOTS FALL EVENING DINING Nov. 8
Food Editor Pam Aughe, R.D.
August 25. Of course we started our tour at Calder Dairy trying the
wonderful event. Publishers Kate and Robb Harper worked closely with the
FALL FLAVOR WEEKENDS Presented by Sept. 29-30 & Oct. 6-7
From:_____________________________________________________________
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edible WOW
fall
September, October, November
2012
Departments
Thursday, September 20th 6:30pm at paesano
8
Notable Edibles
16
Farm to Plate
20
Feeding the Community
24
In the Spotlight
28
In the Kitchen
42
Cooking Fresh
Features
An outdoor Benefit Dinner for Washtenaw Food Hub featuring locally sourced food prepared by Michigander, Chef David Whitney.
13
Pasties — A Michigan Tradition
34
Good Food Makes Good Medicine
The 4-course dinner will be paired with 4 Michigan wines. Reservations required. $65pp (734) 971-0484 | paesanosannarbor.com
3411 Washtenaw Ave. Ann Arbor, MI 48104 Cover photo by Lisa Dunlap Content page by Kate Harper 6 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012 7
Photo Courtesy of: Cadillac Urban Gardens
notable edibles
Helpful Hunters
F
eeding America, a national network of hunger-relief charities, reports that 19% of Michigan residents, and 24.8% of its children, were “food insecure” in 2010, above the national average of 16.1% overall and 24.6% for children. “Food insecurity” is a euphemism for hunger. As defined by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, food insecurity means not “having adequate access by all people at all times to enough food for an active healthy life.” Many food insecure households exceed income eligibility for federal food assistance, but are still unable to obtain enough food and must rely on charitable donations to supplement their diets. Meanwhile, Michigan has plenty of forests, farmland and leafy suburbs. This means it has plenty of deer. Hunted nearly to extinction at the turn of the 20th century, Whitetail deer have made a comeback in Michigan. Crop abundance, absence of predators, and hunting bans on private property and in local parks led to overpopulation by the 1980s. According to the Southeast Michigan Council of Governments, deer-automobile crashes result in an average of $130 million dollars in damages in Michigan every year. At the intersection of hunger and surplus lay a solution. Michigan Sportsmen Against Hunger (MSAH) was born in 1990 through the efforts of Neal Easterbrook, a Madison Heights resident and hunter who started donating meat to charity. Easterbrook now serves as vice president of the organization. “I saw how much of an impact it made,” he says. “The following year, I went to all the big Michigan hunt clubs and got them on board.” 8 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
About 40,000 pounds of ground venison is provided to shelters, soup kitchens, pantries and food banks annually, according to Dean Hall, current MSAH president. Donations come from individuals, game ranches, farmers, sportsmen clubs and metropolitan park culling efforts, he explains. MSAH volunteers have assisted sharpshooters conducting park culls with field dressing and transport to processing centers. Donations are treated through a network of 57 participating processors throughout the state. Whole donations are processed at no cost to the hunter. Individuals can also elect to “Give a Pound” when they take their game in for processing. Keeping the meat in the community is important to both hunters and processors. “The hunter gets a strong sense of helping those in their community, and the processors get a strong sense of community involvement as a local business,” says Hall. While the organization is 100% volunteer-run, funds for processing and promotions come from fund-raising and voluntary donations made when purchasing Michigan hunting, fishing or trapping licenses. Gleaners Community Food Bank of Southeast Michigan is among the local charities that distribute MSAH donations to food pantries and soup kitchens. “We are very grateful to the sportsmen who think of those less fortunate to benefit from the hunt,” says Rachelle Bonelli, program services director. —Nina Misuraca Ignaczak
Detroit Dirt founder Pashon Murray and John Bradburn manager of GM's waste reduction efforts.
Bumper Crop
W
hat do you get when you combine zoo animal manure, coffee grounds and shipping crates? The answer is an environmentally friendly start to Detroit’s newest urban garden. Located on Merritt in southwest Detroit, the Cadillac Urban Garden marked its first year with a bumper crop and steadfast community support in spite of the drought and the parched economy. “It has exceeded our wildest dreams,” says Sylvia Grucken, garden volunteer and assistant to the chairman of the Ideal Group, the local business that administers the garden. The concept is simple: On Saturday mornings and after work, neighborhood residents are invited to stroll through the gardens and pick the produce free of charge. What happens next is magical. People stop to talk to each other. Neighbors who previously only exchanged a superficial “hello” become friends. “Our mission is to create a space that promotes the health and security of our community,” says Frank Venegas, Ideal Group chairman. “Cadillac Urban Gardens is producing vegetables, community health and growth.” Ideal Group, an eight-time GM Supplier of the Year, worked with both for-profit and nonprofit organizations to create the garden. General Motors provided 250 shipping crates for the raised-bed gardens. The soil was supplied by Detroit Dirt, with composting materials, coffee grounds and food scraps from
the Detroit Zoo, Astro Café, the Marriott Hotel and GM’s DetroitHamtramck Assembly Plant. Better Day Ministries and southwest Detroit residents provided labor. Children from the neighborhood are the heart and soul of this garden. Take 13-year-old Christopher Lara, for example. The adults credit him with keeping the garden alive during the summer drought. Pedaling back and forth from home to the garden on his bike, Lara spent between five and 15 hours a week tending to the 250 raised beds. With this summer’s inconsistent rainfall, Lara put a lot of his energy into watering the crops. The sturdy boxes of overflowing plants that cover a once-abandoned parking lot delight him. “I’ve never seen anything like it,” he says. His summer as a gardener has sparked an interest in becoming a landscape architect. All told, neighborhood youth have contributed more than 800 volunteer hours working in the garden. Ideal Group’s Esperanza Cantu is responsible for motivating and organizing those young people. She draws on the nearby Cristo Rey High school, Latino Family Services, LA SED and Southwest Detroit Environmental Vision for labor. Many of those same kids will bring their parents to the garden to enjoy the vegetables they have planted. Grucken summarizes the spirit of the garden in one sentence: “Anyone who comes here is part of the garden. They own it.” —Chris Hardman EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012 9
CHANGING THE WORLD OF HEALTH CARE STARTS WITH PLANTING ONE SEED ...
Photographs: Kate Harper
AND ANOTHER ... AND ANOTHER ...
Ryan Beuthin, General Manager
T
Crêpes a la Michigan
he crêpe has arrived in Flint, Michigan. It was a lengthy journey. Robb Klaty spent three years slinging crêpes from a food cart at the Flint Farmers’ Market, testing out recipes while building a loyal following. In 2011, Klaty leased a space at 555 Saginaw in downtown Flint, continuing to operate the cart in front of the store for months while building the crêperie. The Flint Crêpe Company officially began operation as a brickand-mortar concern in November 2011, serving breakfast, lunch, dinner, dessert and everything in between. Designed and built with the donated labor of friends, the well-lit space features local art, literature on sustainable living and bicycle commuting, and live music. Fresh herbs grow in buckets suspended from the ceiling beneath grow lights. Klaty is undeterred by the challenge of opening a business in Flint, which, like so many other “rust belt” cities, has suffered population loss and economic decline following disinvestment by the automotive industry. “This is where I live. I love this city,” he says. “Something like this has more impact in a place like Flint, as opposed to Ann Arbor or Traverse City.” A crêpe is a thin pancake filled with savory or sweet ingredients, making it highly versatile as a menu item. Sweet items on the menu include a Cinnamon and Sugar Crêpe, a Lemon Drop Crêpe and a Peanut Butter and Chocolate Crêpe. Breakfast-lovers can sample the “Inside-Out” Egg and Cheese Crêpe, cooked Mediterranean-style, Monte-Cristo-style or French-Toast-style. The Reuben Crêpe is the best-selling item, made with Detroit corned beef and sauerkraut from The Brinery in Ann Arbor.
10 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
We invite you to discover the rewards of a healthier way of life. Our greenhouse is not only full of an array of organic fruits and vegetables, it is your new community wellness center, offering information and interactive experiences for you and your family. W E L C O M E T O T H E G R E E N H O U S E AT H E N R Y F O R D W E S T B L O O M F I E L D H O S P I TA L . CULTIVATING BETTER LIFE.
To learn more about tours and workshops, call (248) 325-3890 or email wbhgreenhouse@hfhs.org. H enry F ord W est B loomField H ospital
Building the menu from local, seasonal foods is one of Flint Crêpe Company’s four ethical guidelines. To supply the crêperie with fresh greens throughout the year, Klaty works with a hoop house nearby. Excess produce is sold at a liquor store across the street, providing a much-needed source of fresh food to a low-income neighborhood. The other three guidelines state that recipes are to be sourced from ethical and responsible growers and producers, that something for everyone shall be offered and that ingredients are made from scratch. Adhering to ethics when they come into conflict with customer desires can require ingenuity, according to Ryan Beuthin, who serves as “back of house coordinator.” When the crêperie stopped serving a caramel sauce after realizing it contained high-fructose corn syrup, a loyal customer complained about the disappearance of her favorite item, swearing never to return. “We knew where she worked. So we developed our own caramel sauce, brought her a free cup of coffee and invited her back,” he says. A 12-foot-high chalkboard on the wall features a roster of the crêperie’s local food sources. The list includes flour from Westwind Milling in Linden, eggs from local Flint Farmers’ Market vendor Hugh Godfrey and jam from We Bee Jammin’, an artisan jam and honey producer from Northern Michigan. At the bottom of the list is a simple command: Know Your Food. —Nina Misuraca Ignaczak The Flint Crêpe Company: 555 Saginaw St, Flint; 810-354-5711
EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012 11
Cooking with edibleWOW
The Birmingham Community House
Guest instructors include Thursday Nov. 15
Amber Popoure, Cacao Tree Cafe' Owner Raw Vegan Pumpkin Pie garnished with Maple Candied Pecans
Tuesday Nov. 20
Tuesday Nov. 27
Hors d'oevres including Roasted Butternut Squash & Granny Smith Apple Soup
Red Wine Braised Short Ribs and Braised Pork Belly
Excutive Chef Steven Grostick, Toasted Oak Grill
Excutive Chef Andy Hollyday, Michael Symon's Roast in Detroit
Thursday Nov. 29
Food Editor Pam Aughe, edibleWOW Magazine Apple Carrot Soup, Herbed Cracker Bread & Mulled Apple Tea
Pasties
Sneak Peak at one of the dishes featured in the edibleWOW cooking classes
A Michigan Tradition
Apple Carrot Soup Pam Aughe, R.D., edibleWOW Food Editor Root vegetables, apples and onions are all available in Michigan in the fall as well most of the winter when properly stored. Cook with edibleWOW in November and learn how to eat seasonally and locally. 1 tablespoon butter 3 cups peeled and thinly sliced carrots 2 large apples, peeled and chopped (about 3 cups) 1 small onion, chopped 1 stalk celery, chopped 1 clove garlic, minced
1 whole bay leaf 4 cups vegetable broth ¾ teaspoon dried sage leaves ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper ¼ cup heavy cream
1. Melt butter in a 5 to 6 quart stock pot over medium heat. Add carrots, apples, onion, celery, garlic, and bay leaf; cook 5 to 7 minutes or until onion is translucent, stirring occasionally. 2. Add broth, sage, salt, and pepper to vegetable mixture, increase heat and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer, uncovered, 30 to 40 minutes or until the carrots are very tender. Remove from heat and discard bay leaf. 3. Puree with an emersion blender until smooth. Stir in heavy cream and serve hot. Garnish with chives, f inely chopped apples, and crème fresh. Store soup in refrigerator for 2 to 3 days or freeze up to 3 months. Yield: 5 cups
Register by phone 248-644-5832 or online www.tchserves.org $32.00 per class or $108.00 for all 4 classes plus $8.00 material fee per class The Birmingham Community House l 380 Bates Street l Birmingham, MI 48009
12 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
By Annette Kingsbury l Photos By Lisa Dunlap
M
ichigan lays such a claim to pasties that the state’s tourism arm has branded them “real Michigan food.” The belly-filling, hand-held meal has moved beyond its Upper Peninsula origins and can now be found throughout the state in many variations, including vegetarian. The word pasty refers to a pie without a dish. Their introduction in Michigan is credited to miners from Cornwall, a Celtic county in southwest England. In the 1800s, when Cornwall’s important tin mining industry slumped, miners began immigrating to the Upper Peninsula to work in new copper mines. They were followed by Finns, who also entered the mines.
Pasties were a staple because they could be made with whatever was available, provided a complete meal and could be easily carried down the mine and eaten with the hands. They were traditionally wrapped in muslin or paper to protect them from grimy hands. A crimped edge provided a sturdy grip. Today, the European Union recognizes the Traditional Cornish Pasty, which contains only chunks of beef, potato, sweed (turnip or rutabaga), onion, salt and pepper. In Southeast Michigan, however, coarsely ground meat prevails. And though beef makes up the great majority of sales, pasties can be had with chicken and vegetarian fillings. The crust might contain lard, butter or vegetable shortening. Eric Sell, whose parents started Barb’s Pasties and Pizza in
EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012 13
Clawson in 1983, uses the family recipe his Finnish mother learned growing up in Calumet. “I’ll never change our recipe,” he says. He uses lard in the crust and ground round for the beef, plus carrot, rutabaga, onion and potatoes. His chicken pasty adds peas and celery. “There really is no such thing as a chicken pasty, but people wanted chicken,” he says. Vegetable fillings are also available. “I sell quite a few of them, surprisingly enough. We do a lot at Lent.” Sell makes pasties fresh daily, selling “a couple hundred a day in summertime. It’s and double that amount in winter.” Peter Caruso grew up on Barb’s Pasties. Years later, he purchased a building that held a pasty shop and acquired a traditional recipe. He now owns two Uncle Peter’s Pasties, one each in Clarkston and Lake Orion.
Photos with hands from Barb's Pasties Photos of baked pasties from Uncle Peter's Pasties 14 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
“To me, a recipe is what somebody likes,” he says, and he enjoys experimenting. He’s tried corned beef and cabbage, cheese and even bacon in his pasties. He cooks from scratch, avoiding processed ingredients, hydrogenated fats, hormones and antibiotics. He buys free-range beef from a Lapeer farmer. “We use the entire cow— steaks, everything goes in there,” he says. His crust contains lard and butter. Though beef pasties make up 80% of sales, Uncle Peter’s also offers turkey, chicken, spinach/feta, broccoli/cheese and even breakfast options like ham/egg. “A Yooper will come in and I’ll tell them all the varieties and he’ll say, ‘That wouldn’t really be a pasty, would it?’” Caruso says. “People come in, they’re righteous about it. They say, ‘We’re Finns; we’ll tell you if they’re good.’” Customer Dennis Eberlein, who visited the UP frequently as a kid, is a regular. “These are as good as any I ever get up there,” he says. Weldon Hendrickson, owner of Weldon’s Pasties in Sterling Heights and Livonia, sells nothing but pasties, be they beef, chicken or
veggie. Born in the UP but raised in metro Detroit, he’s been in business for 30 years. He uses a recipe he adapted from his mom’s, including vegetable shortening in the crust. Though he started with diced beef, these days he coarsely grinds it. “We make far too many pasties; we’d be here all day just dicing beef,” he says. He adds potatoes, onions, rutabagas and carrots. “I wouldn’t consider that the Cornish recipe exactly,” he says. “We don’t call it a Cornish pasty; we call it an Upper Peninsula pasty.” At King Arthur’s Pasties (so named because the king is said to have served pasties to the Knights of the Round Table), owner Judy Haldorf uses a recipe handed down from the former owner of the business, which opened in 1968. The recipe is said to be Cornish and may have come from the original owner’s grandmother. It contains coarse-ground sirloin, potatoes, rutabaga and onion. Also offered are chicken, ham and cheese, vegetable and a seasonal Reuben, all using the original owner’s recipes and vegetable shortening in the crust. “Everything here is made on premises,” Haldorf says. There are
two stores, one each in Flint and Grand Blanc. At first glance, the tiny Flint location reads as a pie shop, but it’s the pasties that really bring in the customers. About 500 are made per day. “Pasty is the original product that we started with,” Haldorf explains. “The pies came afterward. I don’t think we’d go without pasties. It’s a big part of our business.” eW Barb’s Pasties and Pizza: 610 S. Main St., Clawson; 248-435-5250; BarbsPasties.com Uncle Peter’s Pasties; 6215 Sashabaw Rd., Clarkston; 248-842-0031 or 2573 S. Lapeer Rd., Lake Orion; 248-393-1467; UnclePeters.com Weldon’s Pasties: 2123 15 Mile, Sterling Heights; 586-264-8370 or 19161 Merriman, Livonia; 248-471-1680 King Arthur’s Pasties: 2259 E. Hill Rd., Grand Blanc; 810-695-6502 or 1261 N. Ballenger Hwy, Flint; 810-234-0350; KingArthursPasties.com Annette Kingsbury is a freelance writer in Oakland County.
EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012 15
farm to plate
Strawberry Fields Forever By Cara Catallo
Photograph: Joy Blumenau Bebry
R
16 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
ocky Fowler knows how to stretch an acre. On just one, he grows 30 acres’ worth of inviting strawberries. Fowler isn’t a magician. He’s a hydroponic grower, raising his strawberries—literally—above ground to grow them in a water mixture of plant food, rather than soil. This way 20 plants, each in its individual cone-shaped pot, can grow in one hydro-stacker. Whatever Fowler’s growing method, the resulting juicy strawberries practically speak for themselves. “Look at that berry: I think it’s calling your name,” Fowler says with a smile. He points to a ripe red berry on a fully producing strawberry plant one early August afternoon. “These plants were bare roots six weeks ago.” Fowler and his wife, Mary, own and run Fowler’s Farm Market, with locations at their farm in Gaines, the Flint Farmers’ Market and the Durand Farmers’ Market. The Fowlers began growing and selling their produce at the farm 25 years ago, while Rocky was still a diesel mechanic, helping Mary work the farm after hours. Eventually, it was just too much to do
Rocky, Amanda & Mary Fowler
both, so he decided to focus his energy on one or the other. Farming won. “I went to what I loved and I loved growing, so that’s what I did,” Fowler says. Plus, he adds, it made sense when the economy took a downturn because as he puts it, “People have still got to eat.” “All three of my kids were raised in this market,” says Fowler. Mary was picking beans two days after she gave birth to their son. All of their children—Drew, Amanda and Christina—have worked on the farm. The two girls, now teens, still do. Rocky Fowler started growing plants hydroponically about five years ago after his father-in-law, Maurice Strong, a retired agricultural teacher and administrator at Swartz Creek High School, mentioned an article about hydroponics and suggested they look into it. Before long the two men researched the growing style and attended classes, and then Fowler installed the initial system. Strong was also the force behind installing the 10 kilowatt windmill, which is one of four on Strong’s greater 1,000-acre farm, part of
which includes the Fowler farm. Strong passed away in 2011. “Maurice bought the main farm out here. It was in his blood,” Fowler says. “He was my inspiration.” The hydro-stackers reach about five feet high, and are balanced on pipes stretching down two feet into the ground, enabling them to remain secure and to spin, so they sustain less wind damage and are easier to harvest. Because of their funnel-shaped stacked design, each plant drains down to the one below and the water continues to the ground, avoiding flooding the plants if excess rain occurs. “Strawberries don’t like to get their feet wet,” says Fowler, who doesn’t have a water reclamation system because he doesn’t have much left to reclaim from the feed lines. “If you time it right, you shouldn’t have to reclaim anything.” Each spring Fowler replaces the plants in a two-month turnaround process, which runs several thousand dollars to purchase the plants, plus the cost of labor. Down the line he hopes to find a way EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012 17
Look at that “ berry: I think
“
Photograph: Kate Harper
Photograph: Joy Blumenau Bebry
it’s calling your name.
18 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
to cover the system with a high tunnel to extend his four-month-season even longer, not to mention the lifespan of the 27,000 plants. He also hopes to make some area modifications that would enable the farm to become a U-pick. “It’s a lot different than growing in the ground. It’s easier. You don’t have to till or weed,” Fowler says. “Your nutrient goes to the fruit, rather than the root.” Fowler liked the hydroponic process so much he soon added two acres of tomato and vegetable plants using taller hydro-stackers. Currently he is adding another half-acre of hydro-stackers that he plans to fill with more strawberries. “This is the future right here. You can’t count on the weather anymore,” says Fowler, who remembers when farmers could depend on regular rains. “You always got rain during the week, twice a week. Not anymore.” “I don’t even have to worry about that,” says Fowler, referring to his hydroponic crops, even though they take about 5,000 gallons of water a day. “It’s better than not having any crop at all.” The feed line system supplies just the amount he needs, and he also has misters he can set if the weather is a consistent scorcher. Plus he has strawberries to sell twice as long as most growers, with his plants producing four months rather than two. “It’s awesome. They just keep producing. We still have strawberries in the fall.” eW Fowler’s Farm Market: 10184 Grand Blanc Rd, Gaines, MI 48436; 989-271-8455
Cara Catallo is a regular contributor to edibleWOW magazine. EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012 19
feeding the community
Lessons to Grow On By Cara Catallo
B
etti Wiggins is one administrator who isn’t afraid to get her hands dirty. If it gets Detroit Public Schools students any closer to eating healthy, then a little bit of dirt under her nails isn’t going to bother her one bit.
The executive director of the DPS Office of School Nutrition recently helped build and fill raised bed vegetable gardens at 10 Detroit schools—six at each, for a total of 60—and she aims to keep that number climbing to gardens at 45 schools plus at least one hoop house, as part of DPS’ Farm-to-Schools Initiative’s Detroit School Garden Collaborative. Wiggins may feed the district and oversee more than a thousand DPS employees, but she is quick to deflect attention at every turn. “It’s not about me. It’s about the kids. It’s about the community,” Wiggins insists modestly. Even the back of her shirt reads Construction Assistant. “I’m just the spokesperson; the resource getter.” From finding local farmers and garden centers to donate seedlings and soil, to creating valuable partnerships— with Eastern Market, the Greening of Detroit and the United Way—Wiggins gets things done. “We have people realizing we’re not a hopeless cause. I put the resources in because I want it to be sustainable,” explains Wiggins. She hired students from the Randolph Career and Technical Center, a Detroit vocational school, to build the raised beds. “My babies built these.” Clark Preparatory Academy on the city’s eastside is one of the schools to get a new garden. “You appreciate things better when you do it yourself. You see that happening. It spreads,” says Clark Principal Demond Thomas. Wiggins agrees: Seeing a crop plan and growing produce are great experiences for a child. And it’s something Wiggins’ office can provide. They paid for the
Left top: Drew Transition Center Right top: Ralph W. Emerson School, building raised beds Bottom right: Ida Castillo, garden manager and Betti Wiggins 20 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012 21
“A hungry child
can’t learn. An absent child learns less.”
Foreign Language Immersion School (F.L.I.C.S.)
materials, while program supporters donated other ingredients. Still, Wiggins is quick to let people know that she isn’t just looking for donors. She wants “stakeholders, not shareholders.” “I need you to come here to make a commitment of time and treasure. We’ve got resources in this district. We’re not looking for benefactors; we’re looking for partners. We’re in it for the long haul,” Wiggins says. “It’s about investing in education, investing in our kids and investing in something sustainable.” And leaders like Principal Thomas are helping Wiggins’ mission come together. Thomas is one of Wiggins’ dietary foot soldiers. His next project is to get an existing greenhouse in the 1920s-era building working again. “Healthy food is here,” says Thomas proudly. That’s exactly what Wiggins likes to hear because she knows she can’t do it alone. Each school garden will have an assigned teacher and a paid garden aide. Her goal is for both the students and people in the neighborhoods take ownership to make sure the kids learn to grow—and eat—healthy vegetables. “People talk about gardening in Detroit. We’ve always been gardeners in Detroit,” says Wiggins. “It’s in our DNA to do this. We’ve come full circle.” This isn’t the first change Wiggins has brought to the kitchen. In the time since she became executive director in 2010, she has revamped the cafeteria food, even adding meatless Mondays and Wednesdays. “We changed the menu. We don’t eat iceberg lettuce. We serve spring greens,” says Wiggins. Her kids eat fresh or thawed frozen foods, not canned. She also saw the end to charging kids for 22 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
lunch and parents having to choose between lunch money and other living expenses. That financial struggle—or not having a lunch at all—ultimately hurts learning and even attendance. “Everything I do in food is in support of academic achievement,” Wiggins explains. “A hungry child can’t learn. An absent child learns less.” Eric Davis, director of the Food Initiative for United Way for Southeastern Michigan, says that Wiggins was instrumental in enacting a program that ensures that Detroit school kids are also fed during the summer. “Those schools remain open and the community is aware that the same kids can receive breakfast and lunch throughout the summer,” he explains, pointing out that it also creates “a safe place to congregate during the summer.” The United Way helps bridge the gap between services and people, offering strategic guidance and exposing Wiggins and the DPS to additional opportunities and partnerships, such as helping the summer foods program come to fruition. “Betti is clearly passionate about feeding kids,” says Davis. “That comes out in her entrepreneurial spirit. And it’s nice to have a public partner who has a sort of business mentality with an altruistic mission.” “She has in some ways pioneered in Southeast Michigan this idea that food services in schools is not just a place for children to get meals, but also an educational experience and a place to get building blocks of good eating,” Davis explains. Principal Thomas says that 95% of his students now grab an apple fairly regularly as a snack, and many return to the lunch line for second helpings. He does not turn away a still-hungry child who wants more healthy food. “Feed my babies,” says Thomas, with an earnest smile. “If they want more, feed them again.” And that, says Wiggins, creates the much-needed nurturing environment where children feel good and are ready to learn and parents feel a positive relationship with the school that clearly looks after their children. “Detroit Public Schools has always fed kids,” says Wiggins. “We’ve all got one objective: student achievement,” Thomas says. “That’s the reason we had no choice but to change the food,” adds Wiggins. “I’m so proud of Detroit. I came to Detroit in the 10th grade. This place means so much to me. It was so nurturing and protective.” And Wiggins just wants to provide those same feelings to these next generations. eW Cara Catallo is a regular contributor to edibleWOW magazine. EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012 23
in the spotlight
Tomatoes
Picking and eating a juicy, ripe tomato still warm from the sun is one of life’s pleasures. But consumer demand for year-round tomatoes has created a market for the bland, out of season tomatoes sold in many supermarkets. Take advantage of Michigan’s tomato season: Seek out local growers and savor the rich flavor of a locally grown tomato. Extend the season throughout the winter by canning, drying or freezing tomatoes fresh from the farmers’ market.
Taste Traditionally, tomatoes are recognized for their shiny red exterior. But go to a local farmers’ market and you will see a rainbow of tomato colors—pink, yellow, orange, green, purple, brown, black and striped. There are countless varieties of tomatoes available and endless taste possibilities. All ripe tomatoes yield easily with a burst of juice in every bite and have a balance of acid and sweetness. Tomatoes can be roasted, stewed, pickled or grilled and enhance both savory and sweet recipes.
Fortify Tomatoes are one of the most nutritious crops available. They are rich in vitamin A, vitamin C, potassium and in the carotenoid lycopene. As a large component of the Mediterranean diet—based on plant foods, wine, fish and low-fat dairy—tomatoes are linked to better health and longevity. Tomatoes are also a source of vitamin E, a fat-soluble vitamin known for its antioxidant properties.
Preserve Purchase tomatoes that are plump and bright with smooth, wellshaped skin. Pale tomatoes with cracks or soft spots should be avoided. Because tomatoes stored in the refrigerator lose their flavor and texture, they should be stored at room temperature away from direct sunlight. To extend Michigan’s short tomato season, freeze them whole, sliced, chopped or puréed. Clean them first and then remove the core and any bruises or scars. Frozen tomatoes are good for eight months. —Pam Aughe, R.D.
Infused Oil 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil 4 sprigs fresh rosemary, stems removed 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 4 whole black peppercorns
Michigan Heirloom Tomato Cobbler Chef Kelli Lewton-Secondino, Purefood2U, Royal Oak
Pickled Cucumbers 1 cup rice wine vinegar ¼ cup sugar ½ tablespoon fine sea salt ½ tablespoon grated fresh ginger 1 small English cucumber, thinly sliced
Filling ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 4 cups heirloom cherry tomatoes 3 tablespoons flour 3 tablespoons pesto 1½ teaspoons salt ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes ⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Gazpacho 3 pounds ripe heirloom tomatoes, seeded and diced 1 large yellow bell pepper, halved, seeded and diced ½ English seedless cucumber, diced ½ whole jalapeño, seeded and finely minced ¼ small sweet onion, finely diced 1 clove garlic, minced 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 1 tablespoon fresh orange juice 1 teaspoon local maple syrup 1 teaspoon sea salt Water, as needed
Topping 1 cup flour 1¼ cup white cornmeal 3 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons baking powder 8 tablespoons butter (1 stick), cold, cut into small pieces 1 cup white cheddar cheese, shredded 1 cup buttermilk 1. Heat oil in a medium sauté pan. Add onions and cook 20–25 minutes or until lightly golden. Add garlic and cook an additional 2 to 3 minutes; let cool. 2. Coat a 2-quart baking dish with oil. Combine tomatoes, flour, pesto, salt, red pepper flakes and black pepper with onion mixture. Pour into prepared baking dish; set aside. 3. Preheat oven to 375°. Combine flour, cornmeal, sugar and baking powder in a large bowl. Add butter to flour mixture and cut in with a pastry cutter or 2 knives until mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Add cheese and buttermilk, mixing until all dry ingredients are moist. 4. Place heaping tablespoons of cornmeal topping on top of tomato mixture and bake for 30–35 minutes or until tomato filling bubbles and cornmeal is golden brown. Yield: 4 to 6 servings
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Chef Lorraine Platman, Sweet Lorraine’s, Southfield
Photographs: Lisa Dunlap
Discover
Rainbow Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho with Rosemary Oil & Pickled Cucumbers
Oven-Dried Tomatoes Pam Aughe, R.D., Food Editor, edibleWOW Magazine 2½ pounds Roma tomatoes ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1. Preheat oven to 200°. Cover two rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. 2. Slice off top of tomato to remove core. Slice tomato lengthwise into ½-inch slices and remove most of seeds. Place tomatoes on prepared baking sheets in a single layer, evenly spaced. Sprinkle salt evenly over tomatoes. 3. Bake for 5 to 8 hours or until tomatoes are shriveled and feel dry but not brittle. Remove from oven and cool completely. Store in a sealed container with oil for 1 month or without oil for 1 to 3 months. Yield: 1½ cups Cook’s Note: Check on tomatoes frequently after 5 hours as the time depends on variety, ripeness and desired degree of dryness. Also, recipe is easy to double using two racks in the oven.
1. Combine 1 cup oil and half of rosemary in a blender and pulse until rosemary is finely ground. Pour into a glass container and add remaining rosemary, 1 teaspoon salt and peppercorns. Store in refrigerator until ready to use. 2. Place 1 cup rice vinegar, sugar, ½ tablespoon salt and ginger in a small saucepan and bring to a boil; stir to dissolve sugar and salt. Cool vinegar to room temperature and pour over sliced cucumbers. Marinate for 2 hours, drain cucumbers and refrigerate. 3. Place all gazpacho ingredients in a large bowl; gently fold together. Refrigerate 2 hours or until well chilled. Add small amounts of cold water, if desired, to adjust thickness. 4. Serve gazpacho topped with one pickled cucumber and a drizzle of infused oil. Yield: 4 to 6 servings
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in the kitchen
By Nicole Rupersburg Photos By Lisa Dunlap
of
Professor Pork:
Steven Grostick W
hen I walk into July’s Swine & Wine event at Toasted Oak Grill & Market inside the Baronette Renaissance Hotel in Novi, Executive Chef Steven Grostick has a bone saw in his hand and half of a hog laid out on a table in front of him. He flashes a quick smile and continues to engage the captivated sold-out crowd of 35 eager would-be protégés. Over the next 90 minutes on this sunny Saturday afternoon, Grostick walks us through the entire process of breaking down a whole hog, explaining how to butcher each cut of meat and demon28 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
strating it right there in front of us while we feast on five courses of his signature house-made pork products like mortadella with lardo and truffle oil and his award-winning porchetta (pork tenderloin wrapped in kielbasa and bacon). The audience raptly watches Grostick’s every move and clings to his every word, asking detailed questions about every step of the process: What sort of salt does he recommend using in a brine? How does he make headcheese? Has he ever served brains and how would he recommend preparing them? Over the course of the hour and a half we’re there, the crowd starts to get a bit rowdier and Grostick is fully in his element. He EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012 29
“
“
Butchering whole animals in a restaurant is a dying art.
separates the pig into its parts with the effortless dexterity of a true artist—the Jackson Pollock of pork, only less messy. He tells us of his own butchering mishaps—like slicing his finger open with a hunter’s knife and patching it up with duct tape—and of winning over his future father-in-law with duck terrine. He may be a chef and butcher by trade, but he is a teacher and entertainer by nature. “I’ve always been a teacher at heart,” Grostick says. “I work my kitchen as a teaching kitchen for chefs.” He started the monthly Swine & Wine event earlier this year and figured he’d get “a bunch of farmers and 4-H people.” Instead he had a room full of women in their 20s and 30s. “That really blindsided me; I did not think that was my captive audience for this.” Swine & Wine has consistently drawn in a good mix of students. “People are interested in seeing where their food comes from and seeing what we do here.” He adds, “Butchering whole animals in a restaurant is a dying art.” But it is one he hopes to revive through entertaining educational events like this and through the example he sets with his own commitment in the kitchen. “I butcher a whole hog here once every couple of weeks and my cooks love it.” Grostick is truly a leader among young chefs. At only 34 years old, 30 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
he has already been cooking for 18 years. He attended the Schoolcraft College Culinary Arts Program and worked for more than a decade under Brian Polcyn, who is credited as one of the primary driving forces behind the revival of the craft of charcuterie. Polcyn’s seminal cookbook—Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing—has been a culinary cornerstone for both trained chefs and curious home cooks. Grostick spent four and a half years of his career helping Polcyn develop the recipes in that book. As a chef, Grostick is singularly passionate about working with small farms and utilizing local products. He works with local farmers who raise all of the animals he then butchers in-house. His is a 100% from-scratch kitchen, from the breads and sauces to the pickled products and, of course, the charcuterie. He likes to joke that he cooks like his grandma: “I have a Polish-German background. All of my bread recipes, the recipe for my pierogi dough, that all came from Grandma.” Grostick has his own garden on the property where he grows everything from leaf lettuces and hardy greens to wild strawberries, six varieties of heirloom tomatoes, purple peas and a variety of herbs. “It’s a lot of work but it’s totally worth it in the end. Imagine,
the cook runs out of basil and someone runs outside with a pair of scissors. You can’t get any more fresh than that.” As “local” has become a hot trend in contemporary cuisine, some chefs make only a half-hearted commitment to local sourcing. But for Grostick it is an absolute life-long commitment. “This is how I was taught by Sean Loving; this is how I was taught by Brian Polcyn.” His ethos is not just a part of his kitchen but a part of his life. He regularly donates his time and resources to promote the cause of sustainability in our local food system with nonprofit organizations like the Institute for Sustainable Living, Art & Natural Design (ISLAND), the Northern Michigan Small Farm Conference and the Gleaners Community Food Bank of Southeastern Michigan. Last summer Grostick was invited to cook at the James Beard House and presented his audience of 62 people with a five-course “I Cook Michigan” menu that included venison chili and a vanilla bean milkshake with strawberry rhubarb cobbler. This summer Grostick is being honored with yet another high-profile invitation, this time to the Cochon Heritage BBQ in Memphis held over Memorial Day weekend. Cochon hosts 14 prestigious culinary events in different cities throughout the year that highlight heritage breed hogs and their importance in our local food system. As with all the Cochon events, the chefs invited to the Heritage BBQ must find a way to utilize a whole hog in their menu, right down to the bones. “So many restaurants are not getting whole hogs in anymore,” Grostick explains. “It’s so easy to just order the parts in Cryovac [plastic pouches].” Cochon celebrates the very kind of farm-to-table sustainability Grostick actively promotes, and an event like this allows him to exercise his creativity a bit. Grostick pays tribute to other young chefs in metro Detroit who are just as passionate about local sourcing and making everything inhouse as he is, like James Rigato at the Root in White Lake. “Detroit isn’t known for this. Guys like us are trying to put [Detroit] on the map. We’ve got all the farms and resources available; it’s what we as chefs strive for.” Cochon’s events are held in what are considered the most culinary-savvy cities, which so far have yet to include Detroit. “I’m hoping the things that we do are going to put us on their radar and they’ll [hold one] here.” So what happens to the hog after we all watch Grostick butcher it? We can buy it—belly, bones, chops, loin, all available for purchase by the pound. While Grostick wraps up his demonstration, his cooks scramble around him, pulling parts of the pig right off the table. “They’re filling your orders,” he says with a grin. Steven Grostick is an Old World chef for a new generation, bone saw and all. eW Toasted Oak: 27790 Novi Rd, Novi; 248-277-6000; ToastedOak.com Nicole Rupersburg is a frequent contributor to edibleWOW.
Rewarding
Careers
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Enrolling Now! (586) 296-3225
SPECIALTY SERVICES: “THE DORSEY KITCHEN”
Learn to prepare food at home like a Chef. One day culinary courses. For course dates, topics and registration information www.dorsey.edu “CATERING”
Let us treat you to the finest foods and professional service. Custom designed menus to fit your catering event. For more information about our graduation rates, the median debt of students who completed the program, and other important information, please visit our website at www.dorsey.edu/disclosures.php.
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Good Food Makes Good Medicine By Annette Kingsbury
hoop houses, there’s been a farm on a previously unused corner of the 340-acre campus. Now in its third summer, the Farm at St. Joe’s is providing produce nearly year-round for patient and staff food service, as well as a weekly farm market inside the hospital. Director of Hospital Farming Daniel Bair says the entire hospital campus used to be farmland. What is now the farm was just being mowed when the hospital decided to return four acres to cultivation. Plans call for expansion to 15 acres. Bair is a University of Michigan graduate who completed the organic farming certificate program at Michigan State University. Before coming to St. Joe’s, he spent time at the Detroit Summer collective, the Chicago Botanic Garden and a year as an AmeriCorps Vista volunteer at Growing Hope, a Ypsilanti organization that supports access to healthy food through gardening. His original plans for the farm called for planting a lot of different crops in small quantities. Now he plants fewer crops in greater numbers. This summer, one hoop house was filled with hundreds of 34 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
tomato plants in tidy rows climbing vertically on strings, high-yield hybrids chosen to produce a steady supply. “Tomatoes are the most popular item we have,” he explains. The garden also offers kale, Swiss chard, peppers, garlic, parsley, basil and even flowers. In winter, root crops and salad greens are planted in the hoop houses. A flexible relationship with the hospital kitchens has evolved. When they asked for spinach, Bair offered kale. They asked for herbs, so he planted basil, parsley and garlic. “It’s such a large system that they can pretty much take whatever we bring them,” he says. No synthetic chemicals or genetically modified seeds are used. Plans call for becoming certified organic. In August, the hospital was scheduled to implement a modified room-service menu for patients, offering healthy, appealing options at every meal. “The menu has so much variety that you could be here for a while and not get tired of it,” says Lisa McDowell, a registered dietician and the hospital’s director of clinical nutrition. “Really what we want to do is use our menu as a tool.” Alarming statistics show that one in two patients is overweight and one in three is obese. “We’ve got to make progress on that,” McDowell says. The farm is the first for a Michigan hospital in the modern era. St. Joe’s has earned four stars from the Michigan Healthy Food Hospitals campaign, which encourages hospitals to lead by example by offering a healthy eating experience. St. Joe’s also participates in the Michigan Good Food Charter, which promotes growing, selling and eating healthy, green, fair, affordable food with a goal of 20% local sourcing by 2020. “The produce has been phenomenal; the response
Photograph: Joy Blumenau Bebry
Hospital food isn’t what it used to be. Today some hospitals offer room service for patients, while employees and visitors can grab their favorite coffee, fast food or gourmet offerings without leaving the building. But at St. Joseph Mercy Hospital Ann Arbor, those options are so yesterday. Since 2010, when the 537-bed hospital purchased two
EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012 35
Photograph: Kate Harper
Daniel Bair
36 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
Locally Grown Since 1988 Local First… Seasonal Always
“
“
No synthetic chemicals or genetically modified seeds are used. Plans call for becoming certified organic. has been great,” McDowell says. “We want to make good food accessible.” Partnerships with local organizations help support the farm. Local universities send dietetic interns. The Ypsilanti Food Co-op, which promotes beekeeping through its Local Honey program, established the farm’s bee yard. Girl Scouts have picked and packaged tulips for patients’ breakfast trays. Ann Arbor’s Eisenhower Center for traumatic brain injury partnered on a third hoop house that was added this year. Two patients who were hospitalized when the tulips were distributed sent McDowell hand-written notes. “I am writing to you today to express how truly inspired I am to make healthier choices after learning about the brilliant Farm at St. Joe's,” wrote a patient named Kelly. “I am so glad to have also come across the weekly farmers’ market in the hospital lobby. Thank you for inspiring me!” “The strange thing about preventive medicine is that you will never know its true value,” said a patient named Jim. “It’s funny, though, that when you lose your good health in some way, you will do almost anything to get it back. Thanks for helping me learn about fresh food.” The hospital’s leadership views the farm as an investment in the community, and indeed the wider community also benefits. More than 2,500 pounds of produce have been donated to Food Gatherers, an Ann Arbor food-rescue organization. The hospital’s pastoral care staff arranges for needy patients to take home some of the farm’s bounty. Participants in a weight-management program walk to the farm, harvest crops and then cook fresh dishes. Even the staff benefits with access to community garden plots. “It costs us more, for sure, but we’re trying to stand behind our model,” McDowell says. “We would like to be cost neutral. That’s our goal.” eW
Inspired Riverfront Dining Weddings Private Rooms Photo courtesy Joe Hakim | The Hungry Dudes
Chef’s Wine Bar Nights Select Weds at 6:30pm, Sept 12 – Nov 28
Enjoy interactive dinners with our chefs, paired wines by Claudia Tyagi, MS, live music, and more! $45 per person; reserve at 313-567-4400!
DuckhornVineyards Wine Dinner October 25th | 6:30pm
300 River Place | Detroit 313-567-4400 | rattlesnakedetroit.com
Annette Kingsbury is a freelance writer in Oakland County.
EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012 37
Food System Economic Partnership’s Farm-to-School Fundraiser Dinner $9 per per5 son
at Zingerman’s Roadhouse Sunday, September 30th, 2012 at 5:00 pm
Want to help the Food System Economic Partnership (FSEP) fight the epidemic of childhood obesity and provide healthy school meals? Come to this special fundraiser to support FSEP’s Farm-to-School program. In more than 30 schools from Jackson to Detroit, Farm-to-School is putting fresh, healthy food from local farms on kids’ plates. You’ll get the real scoop on what students think of the new fruits and vegetables on their plates, see how it’s already working, and enjoy Chef Alex’s special healthy, seasonal menu. Farm-to-School is something we can do to make a difference for kids! Program Director Michaelle Rehmann says “the kids are crazy for kale chips. But before Farm-to-School, they didn’t even know what kale is.” Come to the Farm to-School fundraiser dinner to support a healthy future for all our kids - and try kale chips too.
Reservations Required Call 734.222.6859 or reserve on-line at www.fsepmichigan.org sponsored by:
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EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012 39
Find yourself in Downtown Farmington celebrating Michigan's most glorious season.
Land unites generations. Please Support our Fall Appeal
Festively ring in autumn with live music, kids activities, cooking demos along with fresh offerings from local farmers and unique finds from area crafters and artisans. Make the Farmington Farmers & Artisans Market a weekend destination!
Visit our featured farmer Goetz Greenhouse & Farm
www.legacylandconservancy.org 734.302.5263 40 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012 41
cooking fresh
Autumn Pam Aughe, R.D.
A
t this time of year, a visit to a farmers’ market or U-pick can fill your pantry with fresh fruits and vegetables. Minimize the amount of produce that finds its way into the compost bin with a little creativity. Freeze fruits and berries for smoothies and fruit crisps or freeze shredded and chopped vegetables for sauces, soups and casseroles. Try canning your bounty to line your shelves with jars of jams, pickles and sauces. Extra vegetables can even make a great stock. With a little planning, your kitchen could be full of Michigan produce for many months to come.
Early Fall
Apples Beets Blackberries Blueberries Broccoli Cabbage Cantaloupe Cauliflower Celery Celeriac Corn Cucumbers Eggplant Endive Fava Beans Grapes Green Beans Greens Herbs Horseradish Root Kohlrabi Mushrooms Muskmelons Nectarines Onions Parsnips Peaches Pears Peppers Potatoes
Pumpkins Radishes Raspberries Rutabagas Summer Squash (yellow, zucchini) Sweet Potatoes Tomatoes Turnips Watermelons Winter Squash (Butternut, Acorn, Spaghetti)
Late Fall
Beets Brussels Sprouts Cabbage Carrots Celery Chestnuts Parsnip Pears Potatoes Pumpkins Rutabagas Turnips Winter Squash (Butternut, Acorn, Spaghetti)
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Michigan Beet and Feta Crostini Executive Chef Mike Trombley, Henry Ford’s Eagle Tavern Crostini 6 whole small fresh beets, greens removed ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided ½ teaspoon coarse salt, divided ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided 24 slices French bread baguette (½-inch slices) 1 cup fresh, local greens (microgreens or young salad greens) 1 cup crumbled feta cheese Vinaigrette ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves Zest of one whole lemon Juice of one whole lemon ½ teaspoon coarse salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1. Preheat oven to 375°. Coat beets with 1 tablespoon oil, ¼ teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Wrap individually in aluminum foil and roast in preheated oven for 45 to 60 minutes or until tender. Remove from oven, let cool, peel, and slice into ¼-inch slices; set aside. 2. Whisk all vinaigrette ingredients together; set aside. 3. Decrease oven to 350°. Brush baguette slices with 3 tablespoon oil and bake 5 to 7 minutes or until crisp. Remove from oven and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper. 4. Top each crostini with even amounts of beet, greens and feta cheese. Drizzle with vinaigrette and serve immediately. Yield: 24 crostini
Creamy Sweet Potato Pie Achatz Handmade Pie Company, Chesterfield Crust 1¼ cups pastry flour, unbleached ½ teaspoon sugar ½ teaspoon sea salt ½ cup Achatz Special Blend Shortening, room temperature ½ cup butter, room temperature ½ cup cold water Filling 2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 4 large eggs ¼ cup light brown sugar ¼ cup sugar 1 cup evaporated milk 4 tablespoons butter, melted 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg ½ teaspoon sea salt 1. Preheat oven to 400°. Coat a 10-inch pie plate with cooking spray. 2. Combine flour, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Add shortening and butter and cut in with a pastry cutter or 2 knives until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Add water and mix until just combined. Form into a disc, cover with plastic wrap and chill in refrigerator for 1 hour. 3. Place potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with water; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer for 20–25 minutes, until soft and tender. Purée in a food processor until very smooth. Measure 1½ cups slightly cooled purée and place in a large bowl. Add eggs, brown sugar and sugar; mix well. Add remaining filling ingredients (milk, butter, lemon juice, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt); mix well. 4. Remove piecrust from refrigerator and roll into a 10-inch circle. Place prepared pie plate and bake for 10–12 minutes. Remove from oven and pour in sweet potato filling. Return to oven and bake 10 minutes. Lower oven temperature to 325° and bake an additional 30 minutes or until a knife comes out clean. Cool completely and serve with fresh whipped cream. Store pie in refrigerator. Yield: 8 slices
Red Pepper Bisque with Olive Tapenade Crostini Curtis Wooten, Avalon International Breads, Detroit Bisque 6 red bell peppers, halved and seeded 1 medium fennel bulb, halved, stalks removed 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 medium white onion, chopped 6 tablespoons olive oil, divided ½ cup balsamic vinegar 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 teaspoon coarse salt, divided ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil Tapenade ½ cup green olives, pitted ¼ cup olive oil ¼ cup Parmesan cheese 2 tablespoon capers, drained 3 tablespoons sliced almonds, toasted 2 cloves garlic ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ⅛ teaspoon coarse salt Zest of 1 orange Sourdough baguettes 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Place bell peppers, fennel, 3 tablespoons olive oil, ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast 35–45 minutes, until vegetables are golden brown; set aside. 2. Combine all tapenade ingredients in a food processor until blended thoroughly, leaving some texture; set aside. 3. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large stockpot. Add onion and garlic; sauté until soft. Add roasted peppers and fennel, balsamic vinegar, ½ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper and cayenne pepper. Cover with water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 1 hour; stir in parsley and basil. 4. Purée soup until smooth with an immersion blender or stand blender; set aside. 5. Brush sourdough baguettes with olive oil and grill or toast until golden on both sides. Top with 1 to 2 tablespoons of the tapenade. 6. Serve soup hot topped with 1 crostini and garnished with additional fresh parsley and basil. Yield: approximately 8 servings
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Do you know where your food comes from... Featuring an abundance of locally grown produce and plants picked within 24 hours! In addition, there are several antibiotic & hormone free meats and cheeses, free range eggs & chicken, vegan and gluten free baked goods, fresh made salsa, pasta & sauces and many other specialty food vendors. Know your farmer, know your food.
...WE DO! VISIT THE FOLLOWING VENDORS: Busy Bee Farm - Fresh fruit orchards. A Pinch of Spice - Taste the difference with All Natural Spices from "A Pinch of Spice and More". apinchofspiceandmore.com
The Market Cafe - Located in the Royal Oak Farmers Market.
Open Fridays & Saturdays 6:00a - 1:00p and Sundays 7:00a - 3:00p. Serving local farm fresh produce. Come for the shopping, stay for the great food!
Vic the Bread Man - Daily fresh baked breads. vic711@att.net 586-855-6587
Buy Loca l!
Fridays & Saturdays 7:00 AM - 1:00 PM (Open Saturdays all year round) www.ci.royal-oak.mi.us/farmersmkt l 248-246-3276 44 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012 45
LOCAL MARKETPLACE
Support your neigborhood business
LOCAL MARKETPLACE
Support your neigborhood business
Shop Locally, Live Healthy
Fresh Produce • Meats • Breads • Michigan Made Gifts and More
Oakwood Hospital & Medical Center oakwood.org/oakwell
Atrium 18101 Oakwood Boulevard Dearborn, Michigan 48124
www.lunasa.us
Gourmet Popcorn Shop Locally Made and Family Owned Open 7 Days a Week Fundraising Opportunities Visit us at 633 Beaubien in Downtown Detroit 313-963-2499 l www.goodpeoplepopcorn.com
46 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
Life Skills in the Kitchen An interactive, educational planning series, for ages 9-13, to build food awareness and explore creative, fun, balanced eating habits.
snack buddies explore - plan - create
snackbuddies2012@gmail.com
EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012 47
ADVERTISERS' DIRECTORY
Support your neigborhood business
Dear Readers,
The invaluable support of these trusted businesses helps to sustain and grow edibleWOW. Please make a point of supporting them and when you do, tell them you saw their ad in edibleWOW. 1515 Broadway Café 1515 Broadway Detroit, MI 48226 313-965-1515 Amici's Pizza & Living Room Berkley 3249 Twelve Mile Rd Berkley, MI 48072 248-544-4100 Birmingham Amici's Gourmet Pizza To-Go 1160 Grant St Birmingham, MI 48009 248-723-2900 Arbor Brewing Company 114 East Washington Ann Arbor, MI 48104 734-213-1393 arborbrewing.com Avalon cafe at the Henry Ford Hospital 2799 West Grand Blvd Detroit, MI 48202 Avalon International Bakery 422 West Willis Detroit, MI 48201 313-832-0008 Bonnie's Kitchen & Catering 6527 Telegraph Rd Bloomfield, MI 48301 248-540-4001 bonnieskitchen.com Cacao Tree Café 204 West 4th St Royal Oak, MI 48067 248-336-9043 cacaotreecafe.com Calder Dairy The Dairy 1020 Southfield Rd Lincoln Park, MI 48146 313-381-8858 The Farm 9334 Finzel Rd Carleton, MI 48117 734-654-2622 calderdairy.com
Canapé Cart 2441 Pinecrest Dr Ferndale, MI 48220 248-548-8880 canapecart.com
Eden foods 701 Tecumseh Rd Clinton, MI 49236 517-456-7424 edenfoods.com
Chartreuse 2837 W. Jefferson Trenton, MI 48183 866-315-7832 chartreuseltd.com
Eileen Fisher 2800 West Big Beaver Rd Troy, MI 48084 248-643-8055 eileenfisher.com
Coffee Express Company 47722 Clipper St Plymouth, MI 48170 800-466-9000 coffeeexpressco.com
Erie Bread Company 317 S Monroe St Monroe, MI 48161 734-241-4644 Dundee 98 Main Dundee, MI 48133
Commonwealth Café 300 Hamilton Row Birmingham, MI 48009 248-792-9766 gocommonwealth.com Corridor Sausage Eastern Market 1801 Division St Detroit, MI 48207 corridorsausage.com Culinary Studio 29673 Northwestern Hwy Southfield, MI 48034 248-353-2500 myculinarystudio.com Dorsey Schools 390 N. Telegraph Road Waterford, MI 48341 248-333-1814 dorsey.edu East River Organic Farm 440 N. Wheeler Rd Snover, MI 48472 810-672-9430 eastriverorganic.com
Espresso Elevado 606 S Main St Plymouth, MI 48170 734-904-8323 espressoelevado.com Essence On Main 4 South Main St Clarkston, MI 48346 248-942-4949 essenceonmain.com Farm Boy Tortilla Chips 5321 North Branch Rd North Branch, MI 48461 810-614-2305 farmboytortillachips.com Farmington Farmers & Artisan Market 248-473-7276 market@downtownfarmington.org FSEP 705 N Zeeb Rd Ann Arbor, MI 48107 734-222-6859 fsepmichigan.org Good People Popcorn 633 Beaubien Detroit, MI 48207 313-963-2499 goodpeoplepopcorn.com
LLC edible & ecological landscapes
Goodwells Organic Food Market 418 W Willis St Detroit, MI 48201 313-831-2130 Great Lakes Coffee Bar 3965 Woodward Ave Detroit, MI 48201 248-745-0000 greatlakescoffee.com Harnois Farm 9260 Scully Rd Whitmore Lake, MI 48189 734-449-7172 Henry Ford W. Bloomfield Hospital 6777 West Maple Rd West Bloomfield, MI 48322 248-325-1000 henryfordwestbloomfield.com Hollander's 410 N. Fourth Ave Ann Arbor, MI 48104 734-741-7531 hollanders.com Inn Season Cafe’ 500 East Fourth St Royal Oak, MI 48067 248-547-7916 theinnseasoncafe.com Jolly Pumpkin Café & Brewery 311 S Main St Ann Arbor, MI 48104 734-913-2730 jollypumpkin.com Legacy Land Conservancy 1100 N Main St Ann Arbor, MI 48104 734-302-5263 legacylandconcervancy.org Lunasa Ann Arbor 734-330-4497 lunasa.us Meadow Montessori School 1670 S Raisinville Rd Monroe, MI 48161 734-241-9496 meadowmontessori.org
ADVERTISERS' DIRECTORY Mighty Good Coffee 217 N Main St Ann Arbor, MI 48104 734-222-4514 mightygoodcoffee.com
Sandhill Crane Vineyards 4724 Walz Rd Jackson, MI 49201 517-764-0679 sandhillcranevineyards.com
Mill Pond Bread 1534 Sugarloaf Lake Rd. Chelsea, MI 734-475-7088 millpondbread.com
Slows BAR B Q 2138 Michigan Ave Detroit, MI 48226 313-962-9828 slowsbarbq.com
Nikkis Ginger Tea nikkisgingertea.com 313-675-0397
Slows To Go 4107 Cass Ave Detroit, MI 48201 877-569-7246 slowstogo.com
Old Pine Farm oldpinefarm123@yahoo.com oldpinefarm.com Paesanos 3411 Washtenaw Ave Ann Arbor, MI 48104 734-971-0484 paesanosannarbor.com People’s Food Co Op 216 N Fourth Ave Ann Arbor, MI 48104 734-994-9174 peoplesfood.coop Peteet’s Famous Cheesecakes 13835 Nine Mile Rd Oak Park, MI 48237 248-545- CAKE peteetscheesecakes.com Pure Food 2 U 4303 Delemere Court Royal Oak, MI 48073 248-549-5242 purefood2u.com
Advertise in edible and
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watch your business grow!
Snack Buddies snackbuddies2012@gmail.com 516-359-6451 Sweet Lorraine’s Restaurant Livonia 17100 N Laural Park Dr Livonia, MI 48152 734-953-7480 Southfield 29101 Greenfield Rd Southfield, MI 48076 248-559-5985 sweetlorraines.com The Henry Ford 20900 Oakwood Blvd Dearborn, MI 48124 313-271-1620 thehenryford.org The Old Winery Farmers Market 31505 Grand River Ave Farmington, MI 48336 theoldwinerymarket.com
Rattlesnake Club 300 River Place Drive Detroit, MI 48207 313-567-4400 rattlesnakeclub.com
The Ravens Club 207 S Main St Ann Arbor, MI 48103 734-214-0400 theravensclub.com
Roots to Fruits 248-535-9419 rootstofruits.biz
Toasted Oak 27790 Novi RD Novi, MI 48377 248-277-6000 toastedoak.com
Royal Oak Farmers' Market 316 E 11 Mile Rd Royal Oak, MI 248-246-3276 ci.royal-oak.mi.us
Support your neigborhood business
info@ediblewow.com 248-731-7578 Tracklements 212 East Kingsley St Ann Arbor, MI 48104 734-930-6642 salmondoc@tracklements.com
Ypsilanti Food Co-Op 312 North River St Ypsilanti, MI 48198 734-483-1520 ypsifoodcoop.org
Whole Foods Market Ann Arbor 990 West Eisenhower Pkwy Ann Arbor, MI 48103 734-997-7500 Ann Arbor 3135 Washtenaw Ave Ann Arbor, MI 48104 743-975-4500 Rochester Hills 2918 Walton Blvd Rochester Hills, MI 48309 248-371-1400 Troy Sommerset Plaza 2880 West Maple Rd Troy, MI 48084 248-649-9600 West Bloomfield 7350 Orchard Lake Rd West Bloomfield, MI 48322 248-538-4600 wholefoodsmarket.com
Zingerman’s Delicatessen 422 Detroit St Ann Arbor, MI 48104 734-663-3354 zingermansdeli.com Zingerman’s Creamery 3723 Plaza Drive Ann Arbor, MI 48108 Zingerman's Roadhouse 2501 Jackson Ave Ann Arbor, MI 48103 734-663-3663 zingermansroadhouse.com Zingerman’s Zingtrain 734-930-1919 zingtrain.com
(248) 535-9419 | www.rootstofruits.biz 48 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012 49
312 N River Street Ypsilanti 734-483-1520
Artisan breads, healthy, organic food, local beer & wine, and more!
©2012 Eden Foods 06130
Open Daily 9 to 9
300 foods and 1,100+ free recipes at edenfoods.com | 888-424-EDEN
www.ypsifoodcoop.org 50 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012
EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012 51
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Love Our Local Vendors? Follow us on Twitter and tell us about your favorite local product. Tag your tweet #BuyLocalMI and you could win a local product prize pack valued at $150. No purchase necessary. Promotion ends 11/30/12. Must be 18 or older to participate. Complete Official Rules can be found in the Customer Service Departmet of participating stores. Void where prohibited.
Ann Arbor
Rochester Hills
Troy
(734) 975-4500
(248) 371-1400
(248) 649-9600
Ann Arbor–Saline Rd.
West Bloomfield
3135 Washtenaw Ave.
990 W. Eisenhower
2918 Walton Blvd.
2880 West Maple Rd.
7350 Orchard Lake Rd. (248) 538-4600
wholefoodsmarket.com
52 EDIBLE WOW FALL 2012