edible WOW TM
The story on local food in Southeast Michigan
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No. 25 Winter 2014
Roast Pork Loin with Chocolate Miel Sauce
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EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014 1
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Food Gatherers P.O. Box 131037, Ann Arbor, 734-761-2796; foodgatherers.org Forgotten Harvest 21800 Greenfield Rd, Oak Park, 248-967-1500; forgottenharvest.org Gleaners Community Food Bank of Southeastern Michigan 2131 Beaufait, Detroit, 313-923-3535; gcfb.org Lighthouse of Oakland County 46156 Woodward Ave, Pontiac, 248-920-6000; lighthouseoakland.org Mid-Michigan Food Bank 2116 Mint Rd, Lansing, 517-702-3355; midmichiganfoodbank.org United Way of Southeastern Michigan 660 Woodward Ave, Detroit, 313-226-9200; liveunitedsem.org
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Layout and Design Susanne Dudzik Copy Editor Doug Adrianson Writers Nan Bauer l Jody Helme-Day Dorothy Hernandez l Nina Misuraca Ignaczak Annette Kingsbury Photographers Lisa Dunlap l Jacob Lewkow Amy Sacka RECIPE ContributORS Pam Aughe, R.D. l Mary Gindhart Chef Tom Keshishain l Mindo Chocolate Makers Chef Luciano del Signore WEB MANAGER Jennifer Taylor Subscriptions Julie Blom Intern John McKenna Advertising Sales Robb Harper: robb@ediblewow.com Contact Us edibleWOW 1401 Vermont Street Detroit, MI 48216 248-731-7578 info@ediblewow.com ediblewow.com Editorial Information
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★ ★ ★ ★ Sylvia Rector,
Food Editor Pam Aughe, R.D.
—Chris Hardman Executive Editor edibleWOW Magazine Food Bank of Eastern Michigan 2312 Lapeer Road, Flint, 810-239-4441; fbem.org
★ ★ ★ ★ Molly Abraham,
Executive Editor Chris Hardman
photos by Tiffany Henderson
ood is on my mind more than usual at this time of year. Should I make gluten-free cupcakes for my daughter’s school party? Is it going overboard to make soccer-shaped Christmas cookies for my son’s soccer team? Should we add a new root vegetable dish to our holiday menu or do we have too much already? The irony is that while I’m worrying about too much food or specialty dishes, there are families in my community worrying about having enough food to cover basic meals every day. Local area food banks are reporting a dramatic increase in requests for food assistance as a result of the November cuts to the federal food stamp program (SNAP). The cuts came as funds from the 2009 American Recovery and Reinvestment Act ran out. For the past three years the stimulus package temporarily raised SNAP benefits to help people through the recession. Now that the program has ended, families find that their food benefits have decreased. The U.S. government calculates that a family of 4 with no income lost $36 a month in food stamp benefits. The burden of feeding our neighbors has fallen on our community food banks, and according to the national non-profit Feeding America, there are 722,090 food insecure people in the 5 counties that comprise southeast Michigan. That’s an overwhelming amount, and although we know our food banks are outstanding, they need our help. You’ve read about many of our food banks in the pages of this magazine. You know how important and far-reaching their work is. We ask you to please consider including them in your year-end giving.
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EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014 3
edible WOW
winter 2014
January, February, March
Features 12
Legal in Detroit
22
Bold Winter Brews
29
Holy Cannoli
Departments 6
Notable Edibles
17
Farm to Plate
24
In the Kitchen
32
In the Spotlight
Cover and content photo by Jacob Lewkow Cover recipe can be found on page 33. 4 EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014
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notable edibles
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to hold the land until something better came along,” he recalls. “I think there’s been a change now. A good healthy economy has agriculture at its base.” —Annette Kingsbury Bur Oaks Farm: buroaksfarm@gmail.com BurOaksFarm.com
Slow Jams Jam Shannon Byrne was volunteering at the Grosse Pointe community garden when the gardeners challenged each other to feed their families as much locally grown produce as possible throughout the year.
“The issue of food preservation came up, of course, and those with more experience taught the others how to can, freeze and dry produce … and make jam,” she remembers. The jam she produced with her new-found knowledge amazed family and friends, who could not believe how much better homemade jam tasted than what could be found in a supermarket. Thanks to their enthusiasm, Slow Jams Jam began in Byrne’s home kitchen in 2011. “Slow Jams” refers to the process Byrne uses to craft her products, as well as to the Slow Food movement and the hot “jams” the Detroit music scene produces. Michigan-sourced produce and herbs are allowed to macerate in sugar, also produced in Michigan, and lemon juice for 24 hours before they are
cooked down into jam. This process requires little to no pectin, and helps preserve the integrity of the ingredients for an intense, fresh flavor. Customers at her Eastern Market booth were very enthusiastic about the tasty jams as well as the locally sourced ingredients. When retail stores and restaurants began approaching the booth, Byrne made the decision to apply for a business license, rented space in a com-
mercial kitchen in Grosse Pointe and began selling to local markets and restaurants. The Henry Ford was on board from the start, and other restaurants such as Brooklyn Street Local and Mudgie’s Deli were soon to follow. Byrne and her sister-in-law, Christina Simon, create the inventive flavor combinations, such as peach rosemary, raspberry lemon verbena and their most popular flavor, strawberry balsamic. They also create recipes featuring their jams on their blog. “We try to keep it simple and make things we would enjoy,” Byrne says. “It takes it to the next level, of not only here is our product, but here is something you can do and share it with your family and friends.” Interacting with customers is the biggest joy Byrne receives from running Slow Jams. Another bonus is integrating her former career as a teacher with her business by training students from the Detroit Food Academy and serving as DFA board secretary. “Whether or not they become entrepreneurs, the life skills they learn are valuable,” she says. Indeed, one student claimed she could handle any job after doing time in Slow Jams’ production kitchen. Byrne plans to continue Slow Jams’ commitment to using local produce and ingredients and to expand into other markets in Michigan outside the metro Detroit area. Meanwhile, Photograph: Amy Sacka
Bur Oaks Farm is named after a species of large tree found on the Webster Township property of Tom and Rosanne Bloomer. The couple, who have owned the land since 1982, produce specialty popcorn and soybeans for the snack market. The entire process, from growing to packaging to marketing, is done on the farm. The Bloomers work in partnership with a neighbor, sharing crop production and rotation on both farms, plus some rented land. “We both saw it as an opportunity to diversify our businesses,” Tom Bloomer says. After a joint harvest, the Bloomers prepare and package the products in an FDA-inspected processing plant on their farm. Bur Oaks was formerly used as a commercial hog farm. But in 1999, de-
Linda Pearsall, Shannon Bryne, Liz Camero
Photograph: Lisa Dunlap
Bur Oaks Farm
Photograph: Amy Sacka
area,” he says. “It’s really important that there be some local food everywhere. We want to be part of the mix here.” He has preserved his land forever as farmland through the Ann Arbor Greenbelt Program. “When I started farming in the ’70s to make a living, agriculture was considered an enterprise
Photograph: Lisa Dunlap
pressed prices led the Bloomers to decide it was time to do something different, “where we had more control over our product,” Tom says. They were introduced to red popcorn by a neighbor and started with one acre. “It seemed to have real possibilities,” he says. Red popcorn “is more flavorful. It’s a different type; it’s not just hype.” He doesn’t grow the ubiquitous yellow popcorn, and he has stayed out of the microwave-ready market. “Microwave popcorn is primarily a matter of packaging,” he explains. “We just haven’t chosen to enter that market. We’re a tiny producer in the grand scheme of things; we knew right away we weren’t going to compete with Orville Redenbacher.” As for soybeans, the Bloomers decided to enter that market because they saw a need. “My wife, Rosanne, was eating some soybeans and she didn’t find them very flavorful. She said, ‘Can’t we do better than this?’ ” So she started exploring. “Back then a lot of soybeans on the market were just commodity soybeans,” Tom says. “There is an enzyme in them that is bitter. It just gives them an objectionable flavor for some people. So we started experimenting with different varieties and found one that roasted very well and didn’t have that [bitterness].” Bur Oaks plants varieties that are considered foodgrade and are not genetically modified. Bloomer, who earned a master’s degree in agricultural economics, says he has room to grow. “I really believe in the production end of agriculture in this
EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014 7
Table & Tap
Wine Enthusiast RATINGS
SCORE OUT OF 100 POINTS
PTS
REE GLUTEN-F
Photograph: Jacob Lewkow
With its focus on barbecue, beer and bourbon, Table & Tap aims to fill what managing partner Robb Klaty sees as a void in Flint’s downtown restaurant scene. “Downtown didn’t have a good barbecue spot,” Klaty says. He also sees the restaurant as part of the city’s revival. “I love food, but I also love Flint. I want to be part of the renaissance.” Klaty was already part of Flint’s emerging food scene. He’s also behind the popular Flint
Crepe Co., which started off as a food cart. Table & Tap’s space is cozy, with six regular-sized tables and one large communal table fashioned out of reclaimed barn wood. The menu changes monthly and features both traditional dishes like mac and cheese and creative Table & Tap vegan chili spins on favorites, such as pulled-pork eggrolls and ers include Short’s Brewing Co. Local’s vegan chili. Among the salad offerings Light and B. Nektar’s Zombie Killer. are a savory smoked chicken salad and a The brews rotate, and Table & Tap ingrilled Caesar salad with a Southwestern vites breweries to take over the tap. In flair. And of course there’s the barbecue, March, Short’s will be taking over all 30 all smoked in house. The pulled pork is taps. smoked for 12 hours, and the ribs are Klaty, an experienced entrepreneur, smoked from six to eight hours. joined the restaurant business only a The kitchen, headed up by Jeff Rasfew years ago. He started working on mussen, makes many components from the crepe concept with Tim Goodrich, scratch. Following the approach launching the crepe mobile food cart in at Flint Crepe Co., “our ethic is 2009. According to Klaty, the cart vioto source as locally as possible,” lated city ordinance and they got kicked Klaty says. They source ingrediout. So they headed over to the Flint ents from several southeastern farmers’ market for a while and then Michigan producers includreturned to the downtown in 2011 to ing grass-fed meat from Simple open the restaurant version of the Flint Times Food in Goodrich; potaCrepe Co. toes from Imlay City; and poul Now with Table & Tap, Klaty is betry from Peacocks Poultry. They coming the seasoned restaurateur. “It’s also use artisanal products inwhat I love and I’m having fun,” he says. cluding goods from Zingerman’s —Dorothy Hernandez and The Brinery in Ann Arbor. Table & Tap Beer is very important to Klaty 555 S. Saginaw St., Flint and the staff, who tour a different 810-250-3631 brewery every month. Table & Tap features 30 draft beers at any time and all the beers are Great Lakes State–produced. Top sell-
Photograph: Jacob Lewkow
you can find their jams at Eastern Market, Whole Foods, Westborn Market and Plum Markets. — Jody Helme-Day Slow Jams Jam: 800 Vernier Rd., Grosse Pointe Woods SlowJamsJam.blogspot.com
Table and Tap brat with garlic fries
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EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014 9
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EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014 11
Legal in Detroit New law brings farming back to Detroit By Annette Kingsbury l
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or 20 years, St. John’s Evangelistic Temple of Truth in
Detroit’s North end community has been trying to buy seven vacant, city-owned lots between the church and its nearest neighbor. “You’ve got to understand; the church has been taking care of this land,” says Jerry Ann Hebron, executive director of Northend Christian Community Development, the church’s nonprofit development arm. In 2009 the church, which owned three lots, broke ground on the Oakland Street Community Garden to address the community’s food insecurity. Since then, the garden has grown. It now includes an onsite farmers’ market, three offsite markets and two pop-up markets. “Each year we kind of expanded our gardening efforts and started looking at this as an economic development piece, bringing some businesses
Jerry Hebron 12 EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014
Photos by Amy Sacka
in and creating jobs,” Hebron says. “We’re now farming on the next street behind us.” In its recent history, the city of Detroit has had no agricultural zoning on the books, so farms and community gardens as a principal use of land were technically illegal. “For many years there have been a lot of gardens, and that had progressed to farms,” says longtime city planner Kathryn Underwood. With so much vacant land available, proposals for larger-scale commercial agriculture, such as Hantz Farms, began to turn up. That prompted the city to act, and in April 2013 a new Urban Agriculture Ordinance was enacted which defines legal agricultural uses. It’s been a long time coming. In 2009, Underwood convened a working group that included growers, city departments, the
Michigan Department of Agriculture, Wayne State University and many more. “I knew who to bring to the table,” she says. “It was very important to me that the ordinance not be top-down.” What resulted is an ordinance she calls “progressive” because it allows agriculture in so many zoning districts. “If one of our purposes is to increase access to fresh food and economic opportunity, we felt that was important.” The city defines an urban farm as more than one acre—an urban garden is up to one acre—where the principal land use is growing food. The ordinance also covers orchards, tree farms, hydroponics and aquaculture (fish farming), as well as greenhouses, hoop houses, farmers’ markets and farm stands. Depending on the zoning of a property, the city will exercise varying levels of review and approval. The beginning of the urban agriculture movement in the United States is credited to New York City in the early 1900s. New York is still home to the largest urban garden program, the Green Thumb Program, which began in 1978. Other large US cities were, until recently, in the same boat as Detroit, with outdated ordinances prohibiting urban farms. However, many have been updating their zoning ordinances in the last few years, including Atlanta, Baltimore, Chicago, Denver, Minneapolis, Nashville and Seattle. In Michigan, the state’s Right to Farm Act regulates commercial farming, so cities may not. A proposed exemption for cities was opposed by the farm lobby. “We couldn’t figure out how to get around that,” Underwood says. After about a year of stalemate, the
Volunteers for American Indian Health sell Brightmoor Farm Veggies at Eastern Market
William Hebron, Oakland Farm EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014 13
Michigan Department of Agriculture proposed exempting cities from one specific part of the Right to Farm Act covering generally accepted management practices (GAMPs). After another year of waiting for the Michigan Attorney General to weigh in, the city went forward with the MDA’s blessing. “Cities need to be able to regulate how they want farms to operate within their communities,” Underwood says. “I call them good-neighbor standards. The balance I had to strike as a planner was how I facilitate a new use . . . but at the same time let the neighbors be comfortable.” In some other big cities, rules are more permissive about animals and more restrictive on where urban farms may exist. In Detroit, raising farm animals is still illegal, but a separate ordinance is in the works to address small animals such as bees, chickens and rabbits. Hebron says the ordinance means her patience has paid off. “Some people just threw up their hands,” she says. “We’re in a position to go on to the next step.” Myrtle Thompson, who founded Feedom Freedom Growers with her husband in 2009, was a member of the working group that wrote the ordinance. Her community garden covers four lots on the city’s east side. She began applying for vacant city-owned land in 2010; in 2012 she was able to purchase her first lot. “I feel good about the ordinance for the simple fact that we don’t have to worry about staying here,” she says. “It made it easier to explain to the neighbors what can and can’t be.” A former professional cook, her program now includes cooking classes and art in the garden. One lot is set aside for social gathering; another contains a hoop house, which extends the growing season. “I see it as an exciting time,” Underwood says. “There are people who have been waiting for the ordinance to pass so they could purchase city land for the purpose of agriculture. We want to give preference to folks who have been shepherds or taking care of city land, that they would get the first opportunity.” Urban farming “is one of the unique things that brings people out of their houses and across generations. So it stabilizes neighborhoods, brings people out of the house and prevents dumping.” eW Annette Kingsbury is a freelance writer and regular contributor to edibleWOW. Riet Schumack and her son Mark Schumack
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Michigan
farm to plate
Yaks Tibetan natives are at home in Michigan
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By Nina Misuraca Ignaczak
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Photograph: Lisa Dunlap
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hey say you can take the farm girl out of the country, but you can’t take the country out of the farm girl. So it was with Cayce Kelly, who spent her childhood on a cattle ranch in Oklahoma. She and her husband, Tom, had been living in a condominium on a golf course near Ann Arbor when they brought home a new puppy named Macy. The puppy made clear something the couple had known for a while: The Kellys needed more open space.
So the couple began driving through the countryside, and one Sunday happened upon a 19th-century farmstead with a fieldstone farmhouse for sale. The 10-acre property in Northville, nestled in a valley along a tributary of the only trout stream in the Rouge watershed, was just what they were looking for. Cayce knew she wanted to raise bovine animals, but the property was too small for cattle. She researched other possibilities and seized upon the idea of raising yaks. EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014 17
Photograph: Lisa Dunlap
Photograph: Kate Harper
Cayce Kelly
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sold to Champ’s Pub in Brighton, where it is sold as a yak burger. Elk, bison and ostrich burgers are also on the menu. “I put it on the menu because no one else in the area does it,” says pub owner Dave “Champ” Beauchamp. “People who are willing to try it really like it. It’s a good burger. I like being able to offer something people can’t get anywhere else.” Kelly also sells ground yak meat to Carl’s Cabin in Northville, where it is mixed with bison and Angus in a special-recipe meatloaf. Kelly’s yaks are primarily grass-fed, receiving hay in the winter. They are treat-trained, receiving small amounts of grain only on occasion when called into the corral. Michigan Yakkers has two primary goals: to propagate the animals for sale as breeding stock and to raise meat. All of Kelly’s animals are registered and can be sold as heritage breeding stock for other farmers who want to start a program. Heritage breeds are the original breeds used for meat production before hybrids were created. The two purposes go hand-in-hand, according to Kelly, noting that in any breeding program, about 60% of the stock ends up with traits that are genetically undesirable for breeding purposes. Those lessdesirable animals go into the meat program. “A lot of people don’t understand why I have a meat business and at the same time support the population of heritage and rare breeds,” says Kelly. “But in order
to propagate them, you need to have a reason for them to exist. You need to have a market for their meat. Not many people can afford to raise them as pets.” Kelly also raises rare heritage breeds of chicken, lamb, turkey and sheep. James Hiller, owner of Hiller’s Market, came to visit the farm to ask Kelly to raise the local, free-range, nonhybrid, heritage-breed turkeys sought after by his customers. Kelly now raises Bourbon Red and Narragansett turkeys, both heritage breeds, expressly for Hiller’s Market. Kelly will also sell free-range, heritage-breed lamb for the first time in spring 2014. She is not yet sure whether it will be available exclusively on the farm or through a grocer such as Hiller’s Market. While Kelly says she uses organic practices, she chooses not to seek organic certification, because she wants to be able to treat her animals if they become sick, which is important since she is raising them as breeding stock as well as for meat. “Just because something is called organic does not necessarily mean it’s healthy,” says Kelly. “You can feed your animals organic corn feed and call it organic but that doesn’t mean it’s good for you or the Earth.” eW
Photograph: Lisa Dunlap
Yaks are native to Tibet, where they are raised for wool and as trekking animals. They are also raised for their milk, which is made into butter and combined with black tea into a “butter-tea” known as Po Cha. The animals have a dense, shaggy coat that sometimes twists into dreadlocks, appearing much like miniature woolly mammoths. They are able to withstand the brutal Himalayan high-altitude winters, subsisting on sparse forage without shelter. So a Michigan winter is no sweat for them. Nutritionally, yak meat it is very similar to grass-fed beef or bison, but is much lower in fat with higher moisture content. Yaks have a fat layer that develops right underneath their hide, so the processor simply slices the fat off, leaving very lean meat with no marbling. “It has a cleaner taste than grass-fed beef, which sometimes tastes metallic,” says Kelly. “It’s very lean, but also higher in moisture.” The Kellys opened Michigan Yakkers LLC in May 2009, starting with an eight-yak herd from Wisconsin. A second eight-yak herd from Idaho soon followed. It is the only meat-producing yak operation in the state of Michigan. Cayce is the main farmhand; her husband has a full-time corporate job, but helps out in the evening and on weekends. Currently, Kelly has a wholesale license to sell very limited quantities directly from her warehouse, but most of the yak meat is
Michigan Yakkers: 7670 Currie Rd., Northville; 248-468-9088 Mi-Yak.com Nina Misuraca Ignaczak lives, writes and eats in Rochester, Michigan EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014 19
Royal Oak Farmers Market
Live Local—Shop Local—Eat Local!
Vanilla Roasted Gnocchi with Fried Kabocha, Sage + Candied Bacon
“This dish is a very simple expression of what autumn means to our kitchen. Simple, warming, aromatic, and honest. Kabocha squash is the true focus of the dishes’ flavor and the rest of the ingredients are more of a supporting cast, and the gnocchi is more of the stage. The colors of the dish are all very fall and natural, no bright oils or purees, nature has done all the work for us. Fall is our favorite time to cook, because there is a perfect marriage of technique driven dishes and naturally occuring beautiful dishes. The work between the chef and the ingredient is completely 50/50 which allows for the best possible outcome.” FranK FeJeran - execuTive cheF
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www.theravensclub.com | 734.214.0400 207 S. Main Street Ann Arbor | Open for Dinner
Eat it up. Subscribe for free at thehenryford.org/enews
Binkley Farms, Brown City Binkley Farms is a family run business from Brown City. Know your farmer know your food! Visit us at the Royal Oak Farmers Market every Saturday. Crossroads Creamery Whenever possible, we support local, seasonal ingredients. Our mission is to bring the city and farm together… with cheese. You can find us at the Royal Oak Farmers Market every Saturday. crossroadscreamery.com Hermann’s Bakery Everything at Hermann’s Bakery is made from scratch “The old fashioned way.” Visit us at the Royal Oak Farmers Market every weekend. 317 S Main St, Royal Oak, MI 48067 (248) 541-3218 hermannsbakeryroyaloak.com
www.ci.royal-oak.mi.us/farmersmkt l 248-246-3276
Located in the Civic Center at the corner of 11 Mile Road and Troy Street, across from the Library and adjacent to the 44th District Court.
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Beer Cocktail 1½ cups spicy lager; ¼ cup fresh lime juice; 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce; 2 teaspoons 313 Foodie Sauce; 1 teaspoon soy sauce; Kosher salt; Freshly ground black pepper. Salt the rims of desired glasses and fill with ice. Place beer, juice, Worcestershire, hot sauce and soy sauce in a pitcher; mix to combine. Pour into prepared glasses; top with a few grinds of black pepper. Note: This Mexican-style beer cocktail was made spicy by Street Eatzz 313 Foodie Sauce created by Chef Tom Keshishain.
Bold Winter
Brews
Some of the most interesting Michigan beers are produced in the winter. Beers with festive spices and robust ingredients are heavier and thicker than warm-weather brews. Because of their extra richness and texture, they can be enjoyed room temperature and are meant to be sipped
around a roaring fire. With interesting names like Sledgehammer Chocolate Porter and Snowdrift Winter Ale, you can expect bold and strongtasting beer. To find a winter brew near you, check out MichiganBeerGuide.com. —Pam Aughe, R.D.
Beer Marinade 1 cup dark beer; 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar; 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard; 2 tablespoons brown sugar; 2 cloves garlic, chopped; ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper; ¼ teaspoon kosher salt; 2–2½ pounds beef round, flank, sirloin, skirt or hanger. Place first 7 ingredients into glass dish; whisk to combine. Place beef in marinade and refrigerate 4 to 24 hours, turning occasionally. Remove from marinade and grill about 7 minutes per side for medium-rare; let meat rest before slicing.
Beer Bread 3 cups all-purpose flour; 1 tablespoon baking powder; 1 teaspoon salt; ¼ cup honey, warmed; 12 ounces harvest-style ale; 4 tablespoons butter, melted and divided. Preheat oven to 350°. Whisk dry ingredients together in large bowl. Add beer and honey to dry ingredients; stir until just combined. Pour 2 tablespoons melted butter into 9- by 5-inch loaf pan, add batter and top with remaining butter. Bake 45–50 minutes or until golden and an inserted toothpick comes out clean. Cool in pan 10 minutes; remove and slice warm.
Photograph: Jacob Lewkow
Beer Fondue
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12 ounces spiced winter ale; ½ teaspoon hot sauce; ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce; ¼ teaspoon dry ground mustard; 3 cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese; 1 cup shredded gruyere; 2 tablespoons cornstarch. Place beer in a medium saucepan over medium heat to simmer. Add hot sauce, Worcestershire and mustard. Combine both cheeses and cornstarch in a large bowl; toss to combine. Slowly add cheese mixture to simmering beer stirring until cheese is completely melted. Remove from heat and place in fondue pot. Serve with soft pretzels.
EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014 23
in the kitchen
Del Signore Code The
Chef Luciano Del Signore uses simplicity to create artistry in eating By Nan Bauer
l
Photos by Jacob Lewkow
“F
inest” is a word Luciano Del Signore uses often. In fact, the pursuit of it may be fair to term an obsession. So, despite
believing passionately that American ingredients are, in general, “the finest in the world,” he doesn’t hesitate to order outside the country when there’s a specific product that someone else does better. “I don’t compromise. Sure, I could make mozzarella in-house, but we don’t have a water buffalo dairy,” Del Signore says. “There are certain foods no one else can touch, and mozzarella and buratta are two of them. So we FedEx them in.” Another ingredient worth the shipping fee is Branzino—the centerpiece of a signature dish at his Southfield restaurant Bacco, the 24 EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014
2013 Detroit Free Press Restaurant of the Year—is flown in from the coast of Sicily daily. “We buy as much wild-caught as possible, and we also use ocean farms, but it’s very sustainable, and it’s not like the farms where the water never changes,” he says. But for the most part, “My first choice is always local when possible, then Michigan, then the Midwest. Hormone free, organic when we can, no antibiotics. I’ve been doing that for years.” All of those ingredients come together in the superb awardwinning cuisine of Bacco. Dishes are simple, beautiful, with flavors as bright and delectable as the mural in honor of Bacchus, god of wine, that graces the ceiling. “I’m a five-ingredient guy,” says Del Signore. “I like whatever’s in the middle of the plate to really shine.” Menus change with the seasons, and right now he’s particularly excited EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014 25
Ricotta Cavatelli Primavera Chef Luciano Del Signore about Nantucket bay scallops and white truffles. He’s incorporated those into an agnolotti, a ravioli-type filled pasta that contains a floating duck egg. “When the yolk breaks, it’s the perfect flavor and texture base for the truffles,” he explains. The exquisite food has a humble inspiration. “My family originally comes from Abruzzo, which is right in about the middle of Italy. I think it’s the finest peasant cuisine in the world,” says Del Signore. “I’m from Livonia. I grew up in the restaurant business; I’ve been cooking in restaurant kitchens for a long time.” He has visited his ancestral home and also traveled throughout Italy and France. When he discovers a dish that intrigues him, he works at the recipe until he perfects it. The delectable pastel macaroons on the dessert menu are the result of a trip to France, and over a year to get the recipe just right. One obsession even led to a new restaurant. Luciano created Pizzeria Biga, one each in Southfield and Royal Oak, “because I couldn’t get a pizza that I liked anywhere. I would have to think out six, seven days if I wanted pizza,” he explains. Why the long lead time? “Biga” is Italian for “dough,” and for Luciano, that’s a good bit of what makes or breaks pizza. “I spent a year and a half developing the starter for the dough,” he says. “There are three ingredients in the dough: organic Canadian flour, purified water and a touch of sea salt. That’s it. The dough has to ferment for a couple of days.” In testing the product, he found that he wasn’t gaining weight or feeling bloated. “So I sent it to labs to have it tested, and I found out that our dough was basically a probiotic; our process helps to make it so that it digests really easily.” Despite all that pizza, Biga is no mere pizzeria. Luciano refers to it—and to its newest incarnation, Bigalora in Ann Arbor—as a
“Get to know your tastes, your profile, your recipes. Choose fine ingredients, get in your kitchen and play!”
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“wood-fired cucina.” “I love cooking with a source so close to nature,” he says. “At either of the Bigas and at Bigalora, you can get salads, pasta dishes, 10 different kinds of vegetables, wood-fired entrees.” The self-described “hands-on guy” often chops the wood for the fires himself. And at any of the restaurants, those macaroons can be had along with delectable, housemade gelato. Luciano’s dedication to superior ingredients and simplicity translates well to the home kitchen. Essentials for him include a good knife and a stockpot. “A good vegetable or chicken or fish stock is so integral to great cooking. Freeze what you don’t use, and that way you always have a great ingredient on hand for sauces, soup bases and for finishing dishes,” he explains. He encourages home cooks to read cookbooks and magazines, and is a Jamie Oliver fan; he also recommends Cucina Italiana and Saveur. As for cooking classes? “You’re asking the wrong person,” he laughs. “I’m a guy who never went to school. My advice: Get to know your tastes, your profile, your recipes. Choose fine ingredients, get in your kitchen and play!” eW
Bacco Ristorante: 29410 Northwestern Hwy., Southfield 248-356-6600; BaccoRistorante.com Pizzeria Biga: 29110 Franklin Rd., Southfield; 248-750-2442; also 711 S. Main, Royal Oak; 248-544-2442; PizzeriaBiga.com Bigalora: Arbor Hills Shopping Center, Washtenaw Avenue, Ann Arbor
Pasta Dough 3 cups all-purpose flour 1 pound ricotta cheese 2 large eggs ½ teaspoon coarse salt ⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Sauce 3 tablespoon extravirgin olive oil ¼ cup halved shitake mushrooms ¼ cup chopped shallots ½ teaspoon minced fresh garlic ½ teaspoon coarse salt plus more for salting pasta water ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup blanched and diced butternut squash ¼ cup blanched cauliflower florets ¼ cup peeled fava beans ¼ cup chopped fennel ¼ cup chopped arugula ¼ cup chopped fresh heirloom tomatoes ⅛ cup white wine ⅛ cup vegetable stock 1. Add all dough ingredients into a stand mixer. Mix with a dough hook on low speed until a dough is formed. Set aside to rest for 10 minutes. 2. Divide, flatten, and cut dough into 1-inch wide strips. Roll strips into ½-inch ropes. Cut ropes into ½-inch pieces and toss with flour. Lightly dust work surface with flour and place a piece of dough on surface. Lightly pull dough toward you with 2 fingers (it should roll as you pull). The resulting shape should look like a mini hot dog bun. 3. Heat a 12-inch sauté pan over high heat; add oil. Add mushrooms to hot oil and cook until begins to brown. Add shallots, garlic, salt, and pepper; sauté until shallots begin to golden. Reduce heat to medium-high and add remaining vegetables, wine, and stock; simmer for 10 minutes. 4. Fill a large stock pot with water and bring to a boil. Add salt and pasta; cook for 4 minutes. Drain pasta and place into sauté pan with sauce; cook 2 additional minutes. Serve hot. Yield: 4 servings Chef ’s Note: Top pasta with Parmigiano Reggiano or a high quality Italian hard cheese.
Nan Bauer (Nanarama.net) is craving the Taglioline alla Vongole at Bacco, finished with a healthy scoop of strawberry gelato.
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Holy Cannoli
Italian family crafts sweet treats the old-fashioned way By Nina Misuraca Ignaczak
N
icole Schulte Franey grew up making cannoli with her mother and grandmother using a fivegeneration-old recipe from the family’s ancestral town of
Photograph: Lisa Dunlap
Partinico, Sicily. The tubular, cream-filled pastries were shared every year for the holidays with friends, family and customers in the family’s Washington Township antique shop. Over the years, people suggested the family sell the cannoli, but Cathy Schulte, Franey’s mother, dismissed the idea, thinking it would be too much work. After all, cannoli aren’t exactly quick: The whole process takes more than 15 hours. But
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Photograph: Lisa Dunlap 30 EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014
Photograph: Amy Sacka
Photograph: Lisa Dunlap
Photograph: Amy Sacka
in 2010, Franey, who had been working as a project manager in the hospitality industry, began to dream about building her own business. And her mind kept drifting back to cannoli. Cannoli are believed to have originated in Palermo, Sicily, in the late 1800s as a pre-Lenten treat. Most cannoli you find today are filled with ricotta. But Holy Cannoli’s are filled with a cream known as biancomangiare, literally translated as “white eating.” The cream itself is believed to date back to the Renaissance. Franey believes her family recipe is close to the original. “It’s not that ricotta cannoli are bad; it’s a fine cannoli,” says Franey. “It’s just not the original.”
tremendous. “People packed in,” says Schulte. “They said ‘Where have you been? We’ve been waiting for you!’ and ‘This town needed a cannoli store!’” she recalls. The store sold 1,200 cannoli the day after they were profiled on Channel 2. And then, Holy Cannoli’s hit the proverbial bump in the road. A complete reconstruction of Main Street in downtown Rochester broke ground on April 3, 2012, not quite a month after Holy Cannoli’s grand opening. Access to all downtown storefronts was effectively shut down until the following Thanksgiving, and Holy Cannoli lacked rear-entrance access.
“We feel our family recipe is a great cannoli, it’s not what you will find anywhere else.” Cannoli are made from thinly rolled dough, which is wrapped around wooden dowels before it is deep-fried in small batches. Holy Cannoli’s cannoli are exceedingly light, clocking in at only 110 calories. In addition to the traditional cinnamon-and-chocolate filling, Franey has invented over 75 other flavors, such as key lime, mint chocolate chip, strawberry, blueberry, pumpkin spice, cinnamon apple pie, caramel apple, Michigan cherry almond, Almond Joy and peanut butter chocolate. Franey got her first taste of success when she decided to test the waters at a bridal show in 2010.“ We realized there was a demand and we needed to do our homework,” she recalls. After the bridal show, Franey rented a commercial kitchen space and began selling cannoli at festivals and fairs. In November 2010, she began selling out of a pop-up retail space in downtown Rochester just in time for Lagniappe, a holiday shopping promotion. Franey sent angel-winged tray-passers out on the streets to entice customers with samples. “It worked,” she recalls. Franey spent the summer of 2011 filling catering orders and selling at farmers’ markets all over Oakland County, slowly building up a customer base. In late 2011, Sole Sisters, a downtown Rochester women’s shoe store, allowed her to occupy the store’s back area, giving Holy Cannoli’s another temporary downtown home base to sell retail and fill orders. By the end of 2011, Franey knew she was ready for her own storefront and commercial equipment. So when her dream location opened up in downtown Rochester, she jumped on it, purchased a commercial fryer, and moved into the store’s current location on Main Street in time for St. Patrick’s Day in 2012. The response was
So Franey continued to do what she had been doing all along. “We continued to do outdoor events, festivals and farmers’ markets, which helped create and sustain a customer base,” she says. Finally, the road opened in time for the holidays, and business slowly got back on track. “It took a long time for people to start coming back,” says Franey. “We still do farmers’ markets, and now we do Eastern Market as well, which creates an additional customer base for us.” Franey opened a second location in Berkley earlier this year to accommodate the need for an oven to bake Grandma’s cookies and cassata cakes. She is quick to point out, however, that Holy Cannoli’s is a cannoli store, not a bakery. “It’s a cannoli shop,” she says. “We feel our family recipe is a great cannoli, it’s not what you will find anywhere else, and we are going to specialize in that and do it well.” Franey developed a gluten-free cannoli, which she hopes will be available later this year. It has already passed the ultimate taste test— Grandma couldn’t tell the difference. Holy Cannoli’s was one of 30 entrepreneurial food businesses to win a grant through Eastern Market, Charter One and the Michigan Economic Development Corporation in October, which will go to purchase a dough sheeter and tabletop fryer. Franey’s grandfather, who passed away shortly before the store’s opening, chose the name for the business. The Rochester storefront sits right across the street from a set of doors and windows built by him, serving as a constant reminder of his presence. “It’s like a warm hug,” says Franey. “We are where we are supposed to be.” eW Holy Cannoli’s: 415 Main St., Rochester, and 2752 Coolidge, Berkley 248-804-4243; HolyCannolis.com. Nina Misuraca Ignaczak lives, writes and eats in Rochester, Michigan
Bottom photo: Nicole Franey, Grandma Sharon Beheler and Mom Kathy Schulte EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014 31
in the spotlight Roast Pork Loin with Chocolate Miel Sauce Mindo Chocolate Makers MindoChocolate.com, Dexter
Chocolate
Mindo produces a sustainable, environmentally friendly artisan chocolate product. Be sure to marinate the pork overnight as this creates the flavor that fuses well with the smooth chocolate sauce.
Oatmeal Stout Brownies Mary Gindhart, Chef and Co-Owner, 51 North Brewing Co., Lake Orion 51 North is known for its artfully crafted microbrewed beer, wine and mead. The stout in these brownies intensifies the flavor of the chocolate. You won’t taste the beer at all; it just enhances the richness.
Discover
Fortify
Michigan has proudly created chocolate and confections for almost 140 years. From iconic chocolatiers such as Sanders and Morley’s to rookie chocolatiers including Gayle’s, Mindo and Pete’s, finding a quality chocolate treat is easy. Even Michigan State University dairy is in on the chocolate craze, selling nearly 1,000 pounds annually of their chocolate cheese confection. Whether for Sweetest Day, Valentine’s Day or just for that chocolate craving, you can satisfy your sweet tooth right here in Michigan.
High levels of antioxidant flavonoids and mood-boosting serotonin and endorphins make chocolate sound like the perfect way to give your diet a healthy boost. However, chocolate is also high in saturated fat, sugar and calories. So, our guilty pleasure still needs to be eaten in moderate portions along with other flavonoid-rich foods like tea, red wine, fruits and vegetables.
Taste Chocolate has rich and complex flavors. These flavors are developed by fermenting, drying, roasting and grinding different types of cocoa beans. Some varieties of chocolate—dark, bittersweet, semi-sweet, milk or white—may even have added ingredients like nuts or dried fruit. Chocolate is wonderful in chili, sauces, dry rubs, brewed beer and, of course, desserts. 32 EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014
Preserve High-quality chocolate should list cocoa as the first ingredient, be evenly colored and slightly shiny. A light, powdery coating means you may have chocolate that wasn’t stored properly or is old. Listen for a nice snapping sound when you break a piece off—this means the chocolate is high in cocoa and low in sugar and milk solids. Any uneaten chocolate, if that occurs, should be kept in a cool, dry place. —Pam Aughe, R.D.
Photograph: Jacob Lewkow
15 ounces Velvet Moose Chocolate Oatmeal Stout 1½ cups semi-sweet chocolate chips, melted and cooled 1 cup all-purpose flour ½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder ½ teaspoon salt ½ pound (2 sticks) butter, softened 1 cup sugar 1 cup brown sugar 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 4 large eggs 1. Place stout in a small saucepan; bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 8–10 minutes or until reduced by one third. Set aside to cool completely. 2. Preheat oven to 350°. Line a 9- by 13-inch baking pan with parchment paper and spray with nonstick cooking spray; set aside. 3. Whisk together flour, cocoa and salt in a medium bowl; set aside. 4. Place butter, sugar, brown sugar and vanilla in a mixer bowl; beat until butter and sugar are completely creamed together. Add eggs and mix well to combine. Pour stout in slowly on low speed then add melted chocolate, mixing until well combined. 5. Add flour mixture ¼ cup at a time until thoroughly mixed, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. 6. Pour batter into prepared pan and bake for 35–40 minutes or until an inserted toothpick come out dry. Cool completely in pan and cut into 20 brownies. Place one brownie in bowl, top with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and one extra shot of stout. Yield: approximately 20 brownies
½ 6 4 2 1 ¼ 1 ½ ¼ ½ ½ 10
cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil sprigs fresh tarragon sprigs fresh rosemary cloves garlic, minced whole bay leaf cup plus 2 tablespoons Mindo Chocolate Makers Miel de Cacao (2-pound) pork loin teaspoon coarse salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup dry red wine cup vegetable stock grams (about 1 tablespoon) 77% Mindo Chocolate Makers chocolate chunks
1. Whisk ½ cup olive oil, tarragon, rosemary, garlic, bay leaf and 2 tablespoons Miel de Cacao in a large bowl. Add pork loin and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate overnight, turning occasionally. 2. Preheat oven to 350°. 3. Heat a Dutch oven over medium-high heat and add 2 tablespoons oil. Remove pork from marinade; set aside marinade. Sprinkle pork with salt and pepper. Place pork in heated pan and brown on all sides; transfer to a plate. 4. Add wine to pan and bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits from bottom of pan. Add stock and reserved marinade, bring to a boil and remove from heat. Place pork in liquid and roast in preheated oven for 50 minutes or until center of loin is 140°. 5. Transfer pork to a large plate and let rest 10 minutes. Strain cooking liquid into a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer. Add ¼ cup Miel de Cacao and stir in chocolate chunks. Remove from heat and stir until the chocolate is melted, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. 6. Preheat broiler. Brush the top of the roast with chocolate sauce and broil for about 1 minute or until glazed. Turn roast over and repeat. Let pork rest on cutting board for 10 minutes before carving. Serve with remaining sauce. Yield: 6 servings EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014 33
Winter Tastings & Events
Zingerman’s Roadhouse is a great place to celebrate the holidays with your friends, family and co-workers! Whether you are planning a dinner for 8 people or 80 people, let the Roadhouse do the work so you can sit back, relax and enjoy great food in great company!
Call 734.929.0331 or email rhcatering@zingermans.com to book your holiday event at the Roadhouse!
december 2013
january 2014
Mountain Cheeses from Lots of Places Without Mountains
1st Sunday Open House
Friday, Dec 6 • 7-9pm • $30
Learn about the cheeses and gelati we make, the farms we work with, and how we still use our hands in everything we do.
Come see how America manipulates terroir and milk to mimic cheese from the mountains.
Local Jams & Local Cheese
Sunday, Jan 5 • 2-4pm • $10
Vertical Cheddar Tasting Friday, Jan 10 • 7-9pm • $30
Friday, Dec 13 • 7-9pm • $30 Meet Shannon from Slow Jams out of Grosse Pointe Woods. She uses all Michigan fruit in her jams, which we pair with Michigan cheeses for this special event.
Join us to discover the nuances of 7 of our favorite artisanal American cheddars.
Cheese from the Flyover States Friday, Jan 17 • 7-9 pm • $30 Taste some of the best cheese being made in the U.S. from places like Minnesota, Iowa, the Dakotas, Colorado, Oklahoma and Missouri.
We can bring the celebration to your house! Let Zingerman’s Roadhouse On The Road Catering do all the work so you can host your guests with ease.
3723 Plaza Dr • Ann Arbor, MI 48108 (734) 929-0500 www.zingermanscreamery.com
Rain or Shine. Wind or Snow. The Ann Arbor Farmers Market is open year-round bringing local food to our community.
Al
Po ee rk, Lamb, B
f
f ly our favorite
av ors
are
, en i ck h m, C b ac k : Turkey, Mushroo
Bundle up this winter & join us Saturdays 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., January through April for fresh produce & artisan goods.
SHOP LOCAL
Stock up for winter on frozen pot pies and save!
Buy 10 + and get 10% OFF Buy 20+ and get 20% OFF Buy 30 + and get 30% OFF
422 Detroit St. • Ann Arbor, MI 48104 • Open daily 7am-10pm 734.663.DELI (3354) • www.zingermansdeli.com
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Local vendors bring a mix of greens, root vegetables, cider, meat, honey, bread, coffee & jam throughout the snowy season.
Ann Arbor Farmers Market | 315 Detroit St. | 734.794.6255 a2gov.org/market | We accept cash | credit/debit | bridge card
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presents
Coming to PBS Television in Winter 2013 Check Your Local Listings or go to ediblefeast.com
www.ediblecommunities.com
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Open to Public
edible WOW Diner's Guide
Listing in this directory is by invitation only. Restaurants are selected for this guide because of their emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients and sustainable foods in their menus.
Ann Arbor
Berkley
Jolly Pumpkin Café and Brewery 311 S Main St, 734-913-2730; jollypumpkin.com Jolly Pumpkin Café and Brewery is committed to sourcing from and supporting the local agricultural community and small sustainable artisan producers. Our seasonally changing menu features beer friendly foods. All of our beers are created in-house, locally made and estate brewed. Our wines and spirits are produced in small batches.
Amici’s Gourmet Pizza 3249 Twelve Mile Road, 248-544-4100; amicispizza.com At Amici’s we say, “Eat Local-Eat Green” because Amici’s is a Certified Green Restaurant® that proudly implements the steps necessary for certification by the Green Restaurant Association. The menu has expanded to offer vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free pizzas. Our focus has always been on quality. All Amici’s pizzas are topped with our fresh, homemade herb tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese or have it the way you like.
Grange Kitchen & Bar 118 W Liberty St, 734-995-2107; grangekitchenandbar Locally sourced cuisine is at the very core of Grange Kitchen & Bar’s efforts. Chef Brandon Johns features a regional, evolving menu highlighting the best products and ingredients from local and sustainable sources prepared simply to accentuate their natural flavors. Guests to Grange should look for seldom-found gems like bone marrow, pork belly and a changing selection of house-made charcuterie. The Ravens Club 207 S Main St, 734-214-0400; theravensclub.com At The Ravens Club we focus our culinary program on heirloom cooking styles and techniques. We like to define heirloom cooking as food that is sustainably sourced, fullflavored, made with seasonal ingredients and prepared using both modern and time-honored techniques. The result is a thoughtful menu that highlights the uniqueness of each ingredient and their role in our agricultural heritage.
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Birmingham Commonwealth 300 Hamilton Row, 248-792-9766; gocommonwealth.com At Commonwealth our goal is to serve local, organic and seasonal food and coffee when possible. We’re always trying to keep it simple and fresh. We roast our own coffee in house in 4-pound batches and make most of our food and drink from scratch using quality ingredients. Forest Grill 735 Forest Ave, 248-258-9400; theforestgrill.com The Forest Grill, which has been named Restaurant of the Year by Hour Detroit Magazine for 2009 and 2010, is an intimate neighborhood restaurant located in Birmingham featuring quality, approachable food. Chef Brian Polcyn and Chef Nick Janutol work together in creating menus that change with the seasons, always keeping in mind the freshest local ingredients available to them.
Zingerman’s Delicatessen 422 Detroit St, 734-663-3354; zingermansdeli.com Zingerman’s Delicatessen, hailed by Mario Batali as “the center of [his] gastro-deli universe,” serves up thousands of made-to-order sandwiches with ingredients like Zingerman’s corned beef and pastrami, free range chicken and turkey, housemade chopped liver and chicken salad. The Deli also stocks an exceptional array of farmhouse cheeses, estate-bottled olive oils, varietal vinegars, smoked fish, salami, coffee, tea and much, much more.
Peabody’s 34965 Woodward Ave, 248-644-5222 Peabodysrestaurant.com Rustic upscale American cuisine can be found at this Birmingham landmark restaurant. From 1946-1975, the Peabody family owned and operated a produce and meat market in this location before opening their restaurant. Now, almost 38 years later, you can find Michigan-made ravioli, Great Lakes fresh perch and daily specials featuring local creations from a third generation Peabody: Executive Chef Kelsy Peabody.
Zingerman’s Roadhouse 2501 Jackson Rd, 734-663-3663; zingermansroadhouse.com Zingerman’s Roadhouse is dedicated to serving guests full-flavored, traditional, regional American foods in a down-to-earth restaurant atmosphere. James Beard-award winning Chef Alex Young and the rest of the crew serve a menu and weekly specials with a passion for really good American food, whenever possible using seasonal, heirloom produce from Cornman Farms— our very own farm, supplying our restaurant’s tables with hours-old vegetables.
Bloomfield Hills Northern Lakes Seafood Company 39495 Woodward Ave, 248-646-7900 theepicureangroup.com Executive Chef Frank Turner and his culinary team use locally-sourced produce combined with the freshest seafood from ports all over the world to create a unique and outstanding meal. Together with our award-winning wine list, a visit to Northern Lakes will be a wonderful experience. Open for lunch and dinner.
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Dearborn Eagle Tavern in Greenfield Village 20900 Oakwood Blvd, 313-982-6067 thehenryford.org/village/eaglemenu.aspx Built in Clinton, Michigan, in 1831 as a stagecoach stop for weary travelers, Eagle Tavern still exudes the warmth and camaraderie of the era today. Stop by for an unforgettable, authentic sit-down meal presented on a living stage by costumed servers who bring the 19th century to life. Our menu uses the freshest local ingredients available in the area and changes every Spring, Summer and Fall. Lamy’s Diner in Henry Ford Museum 20900 Oakwood Blvd 313-982-6067; thehenryford.org/museum/dining.aspx Historically accurate diner fare, coffee and soft drinks are offered at this 1946 diner from Marlborough, MA. Everything from the coffee to the seasonal soup is made using local ingredients. Hop on a stool, grab a booth or enjoy the patio.
Detroit 1515 Broadway Café 1515 Broadway, 313-965-1515 One of the most captivating spots in the city of Detroit, located in the historical theatre district, 1515 Broadway offers an array of freshly made soups, sandwiches and salads—all with a regional touch. Every effort is made to source all products from local farmers and producers. Buy Local. Support local. The Brooklyn Street Local 1266 Michigan Ave, 313-262-6547 brooklynstreetlocal.com The Brooklyn Street Local serves breakfast, lunch and brunch in Detroit’s historic Corktown district. We are committed to offering our customers fresh, local and organically grown food while supporting community and using environmentally sustainable practices. Featuring authentic French Canadian poutine, vegetarian and vegan dishes, as well as a host of madein-house items; we feel it’s important that you know what you’re putting in your mouth. Colors 311 E Grand Blvd, 313-496-1212; colors-detroit.com We are a full service restaurant that provides training for underserved populations. We focus on community and justice. We use an array of local products and many of them are produced inside the city borders. Our menu is designed to emphasize fresh, seasonal ingredients that support the local economy. Colors is about people and their stories. Behind every meal is a great story. El Barzon 3710 Junction St, 313-894-2070 Our love for the cuisine of home – Puebla Mexico – and our passion for refined Italian food, create the heart of our fine dining restaurant. We prepare mole poblano using classic methods, and our handmade pastas topped with made-fresh-daily sauces delight. We support local sourcing, excellent service, hand crafted cocktails and a seasonal outdoor patio and bar. Our family welcomes you.
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Rattlesnake Club 300 River Place Dr, 313-567-4400; rattlesnakedetroit.com Locally grown for 25 Years. Celebrate 25 years of innovative cuisine and exceptional service on the Detroit River. Enjoy lunch or dinner in our modern dining rooms or terrace chef ’s garden, each offering sweeping riverfront views. Executive Chef Chris Franz features local, seasonal foods including prime beef and sustainable seafood.
The Laundry 125 W Shiawassee at Adelaide, 810-629-8852 lunchandbeyond.com Part of the Fenton community for over a decade, The Laundry proudly partners with local producers to offer creative and hearty menus based on scratch cookery and fresh seasonal foods, including vegan and vegetarian options. We serve three meals, 7 days a week in a casual bistro atmosphere. Full bar featuring a unique range of craft beers and a dynamic selection of notable potables.
Slows Bar-B-Q 2132 Michigan Ave, 313-962-9828; slowsbarbq.com The restaurant slow-cooks beef brisket and pork butt and tops its sandwiches with surprising extras like onion marmalade, smoked Gouda and Applewood bacon. The eatery, set in a once-dilapidated 1880s building rehabbed in 2005 with brick walls, swanky booths and an open, three-sided bar, has helped revitalize the Corktown neighborhood.
Ferndale
Slows To Go 4107 Cass Ave, 87-SLOWS2GO; slowstogow.com Slows To Go is a 6,000 square foot commercial kitchen with 7x the smoker capacity of the original building. First and foremost, Slows To Go is a commissary kitchen. We are able to prepare the same food, with the same high quality ingredients much more efficiently and without cutting any corners. Slows To Go prepares much of the food eaten at Slows Bar Bq. Slows To Go is also a carryout location. Supino Pizzeria 2457 Russell St, 313-567-7879; supinopizzeria.com Inspired by family history, Supino Pizzeria is known for our home made hand-stretched, extra wide thin crust. Supino’s is committed to using fresh, local produce and ingredients. We take great pride in providing a quality product for a fair price: a Detroit gourmet pizza, artfully crafted for your taste buds. Voted best pizza by Diners, Drive Ins and Dives in 2013.
Farmington Hills Café Cortina 30715 W 10 Mile Rd, 248-474-3033, cafecortina.com Located in an Italian countryside vineyard setting in Farmington Hills, Michigan. In its nearly four decade long history, Café Cortina has consistently strived to be more than just a restaurant. Founded on the site of a former apple orchard in 1976 by the Tonon family, Café Cortina started out as a “best kept secret” restaurant that has turned into a foodie destination.
Fenton CRUST 104 W. Caroline at River, 810-629-8882 crustandbeyond.com CRUST is dedicated to artisan principles, using only the highest quality natural ingredients, locally sourced and organic whenever possible. From hearty breads to classic fruit pies loaded with fresh fruit, we believe the best breads and pastries are made in small batches, using traditional methods. Our lunch menu features signature toasts, rustic pizzas and house made soups and sandwiches of the day.
Torino 201 East Nine Mile Rd, 248-247-1370; torinoferndale.com We strive to provide a unique dining experience by offering a 5 course tasting menu that will change weekly to reflect seasonal and local products. To complete the experience, we offer optional drink pairings that are carefully selected by our mixologist. Our dedicated culinary team takes great pride in providing a fine dining experience in a relaxed atmosphere. We are open Tues- Thurs from 4pm-11pm and Fri-Sat from 4pm-12am.
Flint Flint Crepe Company 555 Saginaw, 810-354-5711 Made-from-scratch savory and sweet crepes with locally-sourced ingredients form our seasonal menus (GF/Vegan options). Italianstyle coffee menu features espresso pulled from a hand-made Slayer espresso machine and Calder Dairy milk. Table & Tap 555 S Saginaw, 810-691-3474 Table and Tap is a unique, full-service dining experience featuring dry rubbed, ethically sourced barbecue, classic bourbon drinks and 30 beers on tap (20-25 local brews). Paying intense attention to detail in décor, T&T features a large, barn-wood communal table, handmade seating and 15-foot window walls on two sides viewing the lights of the historic Capital Theater.
Jackson Sandhill Crane Vineyards Café 4724 Walz Rd, 517-764-0679 Sandhillcranevineyards.com Casual café featuring wine-friendly comfort foods made with local ingredients. The menu features sandwiches, salads, homemade soups, starters and desserts.
Livonia & Southfield Sweet Lorraine’s Café and Bar 29101 Greenfield Rd, Southfield; 248-559-5985 and In the Livonia Marriot Hotel; 17100 N Laurel Park Dr, Livonia; 734-953-7480; SweetLorraines.com Chef Lorraine Platman’s “World Beat Cuisine” encompasses daily specials, including homemade soups, pastas, seafood and vegetarian entrees as well as fresh-baked desserts and creative cocktails—inspired by exciting ethnic cuisines—using many local, natural and organic ingredients.
Novi Toasted Oak 27790 Novi Rd, 248-277-6000; toastedoak.com Toasted Oak Grill & Market serves delicious American brasserie cuisine with an emphasis on all things local. Featuring a fresh market and wine shop that spills into an inviting and cozy dining room, Toasted Oak Grill & Market is a Novi restaurant that celebrates Michigan food and wine.
Royal Oak Cacao Tree Cafe 204 W 4th St, 248-336-9043; cacaotreecafe.com An almost completely organic menu featuring a variety of ethnic cuisine prepared daily. We specialize in raw vegan food, while offering cooked soups and whole grain salads. We focus on sustainability and locally produced food. We support Maple Creek Farms, Tantre Farm, Martin family Farm, Cinzori Farm, Grown in Detroit Farms and Earth Works. Gluten & Soy Free menu. Inn Season Café 500 E Fourth St, 248-547-7916; theinnseasoncafe.com The Inn Season Café is dedicated to skillfully preparing dishes using the freshest organic, seasonal and locally grown ingredients. In presenting the best of classic and inventive world cuisine since 1981, we believe good food is intrinsically healthy and meant to be hearty and satisfying. While serving the vegetarian and vegan community, our hope is that everyone will enjoy our world-class flavors.
West Bloomfield The Lark Restaurant 6430 Farmington Road, 248-661-4466; thelark.com The Lark is open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday 6 pm to 9 pm. The overall theme is a European country inn, with a walled garden for outdoor tables and a place to grow herbs, vegetables and fruit. Cuisine is eclectic and distinctive with French cooking techniques. Chef de Cuisine John Somerville can be seen regularly at local farmers markets buying fruits and vegetables for the evening meal. Loya Organic 4284 Orchard Lake Rd, 248-681-9640; loyaorganic.com Loya Organic is your neighborhood Mediterranean café and grill. From the tip of Africa to the foothills of the Himalayan Mountains, our eclectic cuisine sizzles with diverse entrees and tantalizing flavors. Organic grass-fed meats, local produce and eco-friendly cutlery embody our vision for sustainability and make for an authentic and rich dining experience.
White Lake The Root Restaurant & Bar 340 Town Center Blvd, 248-698-2400 therootrestaurant.com 2012 Detroit Free Press Restaurant of the Year. Chef James Rigato’s menu showcases Michigan through local sourcing, classic technique and modern thinking. Look for house made charcuterie, daily creative specials, handmade cocktails microbrews and a well balanced wine list. The Root hosts many themed wine and beer dinners as well as hands-on cooking classes and full service catering. Support the movement. Dig The Root. EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014 41
• Weight Control • Menopause and PMS • Fibromyalgia • Thyroid Disorders • Arthritis • Diabetes Management • Acid Reflux • IBS • Migraines • High Cholesterol • and more
Cindy Crandell R.N., C.N.
Functional Medicine Nutritionist, Lifestyle Educator
Call today or find us on Facebook ~ Twitter
www.nuviewnutrition.com 248-625-5143
$25 OFF NEW(mayCLIENT PACKAGE not be combined with any other offer) Give the gift of health with a gift certificate Smart Ways to Live Well
Healthy Smiles Don't Bleed
Hi, John & Nic here! We are pleasant poultry product purveyors. We purvey to various restaurants and through stores in the area as well as directly to those who appreciate good healthy food. We try to do all the right things and eliminate the wrong ones. Currently we have turkeys for the holidays as well as chicken and duck. We raise exceptional, healthy food for the health conscious consumer. And don’t we all consume food? Thanks for stopping by, and till next time, happy trails to you, John & Nic
feathers fluffed regularly
Advertise in edible
It's not OK if your gums bleed when you brush your teeth. That would be like saying your fingers bleed (just a little bit) when you wash your hands.
and
So while we've been making smiles beautiful since 1979, we've been helping you stay
drinks organic water, lullubies sung to them
Specializing in natural treatments to reverse and delay chronic illness through customized nutrition
home schooled, listens to NPR & WCBN free range, no hormones nor antibiotics used
The New Tradition is Good Nutrition!
WOW
watch your business grow!
healthy too. Participant of most dental insurance plans, including Delta and Traditional BCBS.
No insurance?
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Full Service Meat Dept. Fresh Produce Freshly Baked Goods Neiman’s Corner Café Bulk Foods Specialty Bagels 7121 Dixie Hwy., Clarkston, MI 48346 248-625-6460 | www.neimansfamilymarket.com 42 EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014
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Holistic General Dentistry Since 1979
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David W. Regiani DDS PC
248-627-4934
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www.RegianiDental.com
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LOCAL MARKETPLACE
Support your neigborhood business
LOCAL MARKETPLACE
Support your neigborhood business
Espresso Elevado
artisan coffee roaster & brew bar
Innovative, hand-crafted coffee roasted on-site & brewed to order
*specializing in fair-trade & organically grown beans 606 S. Main St., Plymouth, MI 48170 734-904-8323 / www.espressoelevado.com Facebook & Twitter: /EspressoElevado
Joy Through Chocolate.
1928 Packard Road Ann Arbor MI 48104 734.929.6513 annarborchocolate.com
Locally grown fine-dining since 1988.
SGC_WOWAd_2013.indd 1
5/28/13 2:10 PM
Taste what’s new. savor the classics.
300 River Place Drive | Detroit | 48207 | 313-567-4400 | rattlesnakedetroit.com
44 EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014
EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014 45
ADVERTISERS' DIRECTORY
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Dear Readers,
The invaluable support of these trusted businesses helps to sustain and grow edibleWOW.
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Please make a point of supporting them and when you do, tell them you saw their ad in edibleWOW. ANN ARBOR Ann Arbor Farmers’ Market 315 Detroit St 734-794-6255 a2gov.org/government Arbor Brewing Company 114 E Washington 734-213-1393 arborbrewing.com Jolly Pumpkin Café & Brewery 311 S Main St 734-913-2730 jollypumpkin.com Mighty Good Coffee 217 N Main St 734-222-4514 mightygoodcoffee.com Orion Automotive Services 3340 W Liberty Rd 734-995-3188 oriona2.com People’s Food Co Op 216 N Fourth Ave 734-994-9174 peoplesfood.coop
Zingerman’s Creamery 3723 Plaza Dr 734-929-0500 zingermanscreamery.com
Mills Pharmacy Apothecary 1744 W Maple Rd 248-644-5060 millspharmacy.com
The Brinery 2531 Jackson Ave Suite 157 734-717-4469 thebrinery.com
Zingerman’s Roadhouse 2501 Jackson Ave 734-663-3663 zingermansroadhouse.com
Peabody’s 34965 Woodward Ave 248-644-5222 peabodysrestaurant.com
BERKLEY Amici’s Pizza & Living Room 3249 Twelve Mile Rd 248-544-4100
CARLETON Calder Farm 9334 Finzel Rd 734-654-2622 calderdairy.com
The Ravens Club 207 S Main St 734-214-0400 theravensclub.com Whole Foods 3135 Washtenaw Ave 734-975-4500 and 990 W Eisenhower 734-997-7500 wholefoodsmarket.com Zingerman’s Delicatessen 422 Detroit St 734-663-3354 zingermansdeli.com
CLINTON Eden foods 701 Tecumseh Rd 517-456-7424 edenfoods.com DEARBORN The Henry Ford 20900 Oakwood Blvd 313-271-1620 thehenryford.org DETROIT 1515 Broadway Café 1515 Broadway 313-965-1515
Sweet Gem Confection 1928 Packard Rd 734-929-6513 annarborchocolate.com
Grange Kitchen & Bar 118 W Liberty St 734-995-2107 grangekitchenandbar.com
ADVERTISERS' DIRECTORY
BIRMINGHAM Commonwealth 300 Hamilton Row 248-792-9766 gocommonwealth.com Forest Grill 735 Forest Ave 248-258-9400 theforestgrill.com Great Harvest Bread Co 1137 S Adams Rd 248-594-0505 birminghamgreatharvest.com
CLARKSTON Essence On Main 4 S Main St 248-942-4949 essenceonmain.com Neiman’s Family Market 7121 Dixie Hwy 248-625-6460 neimansfamilymarket.com Nuview Nutrition 6803 Dixie Hwy Suite 2 248-625-5143 nuviewnutrition.com
Brooklyn Street Local 1266 Michigan Ave 313-262-6547 brooklynstreetlocal.com Colors 311 E Grand River Blvd 313-496-1212 colors-detroit.com Corridor Sausage Eastern Market 1801 Division St corridorsausage.com Eastern Market Corporation 2934 Russell St 313-833-9300 detroiteasternmarket.com el Barzon 3710 Junction St 313-894-2070 Gleaners Food Bank 2131 Beaufait 866-453-2637 gcfb.org
Support your neigborhood business
Rattlesnake Club 300 River Place Dr 313-567-4400 rattlesnakeclub.com
The Laundry 125 W Shiawassee Ave 810-629-8852 lunchandbeyond.com
Slows BAR B Q 2138 Michigan Ave 313-962-9828 slowsbarbq.com
FERNDALE Torino 201 E 9 Mile Rd 248-247-1370 torinoferndale.com
Slows To Go 4107 Cass Ave 877-569-7246 slowstogo.com Supino Pizzeria 2457 Russell St 313-567-7879 supinopizzeria.com Whole Foods 115 Mack Ave 313-258-4552 wholefoodsmarket.com FARMINGTON The Old Winery Farmers Market 31505 Grand River Ave theoldwineryfarmersmarket.com
FLINT Flint Crepe Company 555 Saginaw St 810-336-3308 Table & Tap 555 S Saginaw 810-250-3631 JACKSON Sandhill Crane Vineyards 4724 Walz Rd 517-764-0679 sandhillcranevineyards.com LINCOLN PARK Calder Dairy 1020 Southfield Rd 313-381-8858
FARMINGTON HILLS Café Cortina 30715 W 10 Mile Rd 248-474-3033 cafecortina.com
LIVONIA Door to Door Organics 30940 Industrial Rd 877-711-3636
FENTON Crust 104 W Caroline St 810-629-8882 crustandbeyond.com
Sweet Lorraine’s Restaurant 17100 N Laural Park Dr 734-953-7480 sweetlorraines.com
michigan.doortodoororganics.com
NORTHVILLE Guernsey Farms Dairy 21300 Novi Rd 48167 248-349-1466 guernseyfarmsdairy.com NOVI Toasted Oak 27790 Novi Rd 248-277-6000 toastedoak.com ORTONVILLE Regiani Dental 101 South St 248-627-4934 regianidental.com PLYMOUTH Coffee Express Company 47722 Clipper St 800-466-9000 coffeeexpressco.com Espresso Elevado 606 S Main St 734-904-8323 espressoelevado.com PONTIAC Lafayette Market 154 N Saginaw 248-392-2100 thelafayettemarket.com ROCHESTER HILLS Whole Foods 2918 Walton Blvd 248-371-1400 wholefoodsmarket.com ROYAL OAK Cacao Tree Café 204 West 4th St 248-336-9043 cacaotreecafe.com
the perfect gift...the perfect meal Shop for gifts at www.aldentepasta.com or factory store 9815 Main St. Whitmore Lake, MI 734 449-8522
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EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014 47
ADVERTISERS' DIRECTORY Inn Season Cafe’ 500 East Fourth St 248-547-7916 theinnseasoncafe.com Pure Food 2 U 4303 Delemere Court 248-549-5242 purefood2u.com Royal Oak Farmers’ Market 316 E 11 Mile Rd 248-246-3276 ci.royal-oak.mi.us SNOVER East River Organic Farm 440 N Wheeler Rd 810-672-9430 eastriverorganic.com SOUTHFIELD Great Lakes Culinary Center 24101 W Nine Mile 248-286-3100 glculinarycenter.com
TROY Northern Lakes Seafood Company 5498 Crooks Rd 248-646-7900 theepicuriangroup.com
Loya Organic Restaurant 4284 Orchard Lake Rd 248-681-9640 loyaorganic.net Snackbuddies 516-359-6451 snackbuddies2012@gmail.com The Lark 6430 Farmington Rd 248-661-4466 thelark.com
Whole Foods 2880 W Maple Rd 248-649-9600 wholefoodsmarket.com
Whole Foods 7350 Orchard Lake Rd 248-538-4600 wholefoodsmarket.com
WARREN Butcher Boy 13869 Herbert 586-779-0600 butcherboyfoodproducts.com
WHITE LAKE The Root Restaurant & Bar 340 Town Center Blvd 248-698-2400 therootrestaurant.com
WATERFORD Dorsey Schools 390 N Telegraph Rd 248-333-1814 dorsey.edu
WHITMORE LAKE Al Dente 9815 Main St 800-536-7278 or 734-449-8522 aldentepasta.com Harnois Farm 9260 Scully Rd 734-645-0300 harnoisfarm.com YPSILANTI Harvest Kitchen 32 E Cross St 734-395-7782 harvest-kitchen.com Ypsilanti Food Co-Op 312 North River St 734-483-1520 ypsifoodcoop.org TEXAS Tito’s Handmade Vodka 512-389-9011 titovodka.com
WEST BLOOMFIELD Jacob Lewkow 248-330-4983 jacoblewkow.com
©2012 Eden Foods 06130
Sweet Lorraine’s Restaurant 29101 Greenfield Rd 248-559-5985 sweetlorraines.com
TRENTON Chartreuse 2837 W Jefferson 734-671-3006 & 866-315-7832 chartreuseltd.com
Support your neigborhood business
300 foods and 1,100+ free recipes at edenfoods.com | 888-424-EDEN
48 EDIBLE WOW WINTER 2014