Spring 2009
A business resource for the couture bridal industry
PHOTO REPORT Future Styles – Current Trends
New York Fashion Week Accessory Designer Interview: Maria Elena Store in Focus: Bella Bianca Unadvertised & Thriving
FRANCHISING
The Story of Bella Bridesmaids
Modern Trousseau
Meet Callie Tein, designer for Modern Trousseau.
Can a brand survive without plastering its name all over bridal publications?
CONFESSIONS
of a Trunk Show Rep
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I D S
Showing dates for the new Couture Fall/Winter 2009/2010: By invitation only. Press RSVP: 905-856-9115 or veronica@inesdisanto.com. Showing for Buyers at the Essex House 2nd Floor Lincoln Suite, Saturday, April 4th , Sunday, April 5th & Monday, April 6th 9AM-6PM. By appointment. Couture Inquiries please contact Veronica Di Santo at 905 856 9115 or via email at veronica@inesdisanto.com www.inesdisanto.com INES DI SANTO LAUNCHES THE NEW “LUXE” COLLECTION! Please contact Marybeth Kaplan at 813 345 8743 or via email at marybeth.kaplan@yahoo.com
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CONTENTS TA B L E O F
SPRING 2009
Cover: Gown Courtesy of Nicole Fashion Group
12 NEWS AND REPORTS
6 News & Happenings PHOTO REPORT
16 Future Styles – Current Trends REGULARS Designer Interview: 33 Accessory Maria Elena in Focus: 35 Store Bella Bianca FEATURES
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& Thriving 7 Unadvertised With the increasing cost of advertising in consumer magazines, our reporter talks with one
company who had enough. Can a brand survive without plastering its name all over bridal publications?
– The Story of Bella Bridesmaids 12 Franchising Our reporter interviews Bridget Brown and learns about her innovative business model for bringing bridesmaid stores to cities around the country.
of a Trunk Show Representative 28 Confessions Get the inside scoop from a trunk show rep and find out why they’re important to have Trousseau 38 Modern Meet Callie Tein, designer for Modern Trousseau. Our reporter explores how Callie began and
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where she draws her inspiration from.
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BARCELONA
2009
Collection
www.dArtBridal.com Novia d,Art is Distributed in North America by Mercury Fashion Group 888-796-7679 www.MercuryFashionGroup.com
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CALENDAR 3/29/09–3/31/09 Chicago Bridal Market 4/4/09 – 4/6/09 New York Bridal Market 6/7/09 – 6/9/09 6/12/09 – 6/14/09 TBD
Sposatex (Nieuwegein, Netherlands) www.sposatex.com Noviaespana (Barcelona , Spain) www.moda-barcelona.com Puerta de Europa Bridal Exhibition (Madrid, Spain) www.pdenupcial.com
6/19/09 – 6/22/09
Sposa Italia (Milan, Italy) www.sposaitaliacollezioni.it
6/27/09 – 6/29/09
Paris Bridal Fair (Paris, France) www.parisbridalfair.com
7/5/09 – 7/7/09 9/13/09 – 9/15/09
Modatex (Essen, Germany) www.modatex.info Harrogate Bridal Show (UK) www.ukbridalshow.co.uk
10/3/09 –10/6/09 Chicago Bridal Market 10/71/09 –10/19/09 New York Bridal Market
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Ivory Publications Editor in Chief, Ana Szapiro Editorial Assistant, Jane Young National Sales Manager, David Wolfe Magazine Design, Clark Fairfield Contributors, Kara Targonski, Yelena Jenkins Better Bridal offices: 175 Huguenot Street. Suite 1204. New Rochelle, NY 10801. Subscription Information: To purchase a subscription to Better Bridal Magazine, please visit us online at: www.BetterBridalMag.com Advertising Information: Better Bridal Magazine is published four times a year. For advertising rates and mechanical specifications, our Media Kit is available online at: www.BetterBridalMag.com Sales information: please contact David Wolfe, National Sales Manager at: David.Wolfe@betterbridalmag.com 914-481-1151
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FROM EDITOR Dear Reader: The slowing economy has made the beginning of 2009 a transformative year. Already several designers are about to debut new collections at lower price points with several prominent designers making announcements about their intention to do so as well. In this issue, we chose to look closely at the most recent fashion week in New York to discover which style ideas will ďŹ nd their way to bridal. One shoulder straps, asymmetrical lines and shinier fabrics are appearing across all collections. However, one need not look further than fashion week to understand how the economy has impacted all of fashion. Colors are more muted and designs are more understated with an edge of seriousness. It will be fascinating to watch how these trends impact bridal designers as they prepare the 2010 collections.
Ana Szapiro – Editor in Chief
Contributors: Kara Targonski is a freelance writer who lives in St. Louis. She studied writing at the University of Missouri. She writes blogs and wed content for various companies and corporate communications for Gap, Inc. Yelena Jenkins is a freelance writer and Senior Editor for Hills & Lagoons, a luxury lifestyle magazine. She graduated magna cum laude with a BA in Communication and Business from the University of Southern California, and has been published in a variety of print and online magazines on fashion and style related topics.
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News
AND HAPPENINGS
Veil Trends Teams with Lia Terni
Veil Trends designer Jolene Picone has teamed with designer Lia Terni of Spain to create a unique and modern collection of veils and headbands. The unique headband designs will be available through Veil Trends.
Modern Trousseau
Renella de Fina
opening of their new showroom in New York City. The showroom will be located at 552 7th Avenue.
Renella De Fina announces the creation of the new Matia Collection for Fall 2009. According to Ellen Wachs, national sales director, the new collection consists of more affordable gowns that feature the same quality and styling as the Renella De Fina Couture collection. The prices for the new collection range from $925-$1,250 wholesale.
Opens NYC Showroom Launches Lower Priced Collection Modern Trousseau announces the
Mercury Fashion Group Announces Representation of Nicole
Mercury Fashion Group has announced it will begin representing the Nicole Fashion Group in the United States. Nicole, located in Italy, creates the Collette, Nicole and Alessandra R. lines. David Greenberg, Bridal Division President of Mercury, says: “We are excited to bring to the U.S. these remarkable designs. I’m convinced American brides will fall in love the excellent styling and fit.” Mercury currently represents Novia d,Art and Josechu Santana from Spain and Antonio Riva from Milan.
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Ines di Santo Debuts New Collection Photo Courtesy of Veil Trends
Ines Di Santo and daughter Veronica Di Santo announce their new collection called “Luxe” - a lower priced line for brides seeking quality designs at a more affordable price point.
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Can Success Be Achieved Without Ad Dollars? by: Yelena Jenkins
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n an age where consumer bridal magazines are filled with more advertisements than editorial content, advertisers worry about getting lost in the noise. It is a concern that is especially relevant during a struggling economy, where every business spending decision needs to actively help the company stay competitive and profitable. The days of throwing money at a large advertising budget have waned, replaced by business owners who want to know the exact impact of each advertisement dollar on the company’s bottom line. While cutting back on advertising has been an unfortunate necessity for some, one company went cold turkey on their advertising - and thrived. But is it for everyone?
One Company’s Turning Point Marisa Bridals is a nationally recognized line of upscale bridal gowns carried in over 300 stores across the country. This sustained success has been achieved without a single dollar spent on advertising - for the past few years, at least. Marisa Bridals was founded in 1987, and spent the next seventeen years eagerly advertising their collections. Lee Fein, Partner at Marisa, points out that during those years, unless you spent a good deal of money on advertising your brand was unknown. To keep up with the industry, Marisa went the traditional route of creating demand directly from brides, appealing to
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them with around 30 pages of beautifully laid out advertisements each year - hardly a frugal undertaking. Through diligent advertisements and by providing brides with fashion-forward high quality dresses, Marisa created a successful place for itself in the bridal industry. However, continued success seemed contingent on perpetual advertising. By the early 2000s, the bridal industry had ballooned to grand proportions and bridal lines were buying up more and more ad space to stand out in the increasingly competitive industry. Simple one-page ads were morphing into fivepage designer spreads that overshadowed the other advertisements in the magazine. Feeling lost in the shuffle of all the bridal ads, Marisa made a bold decision: forgo all advertising.
Unadvertised & Thriving By the time Marisa went stealth as an unadvertised bridal line, the company was well established. Top bridal stores and boutiques around the country carried Marisa gowns, and brides had worn Marisa designs down the aisle for nearly two decades. Store owners who carried the line knew the quality and look that Marisa stood for, and continued their support of the line when they stopped advertising. Consequently, Marisa was able to eliminate all of their spending on advertising while continuing to thrive as a business. What’s more, they have even expanded since they stopped advertising to consumers. If one boutique forgoes carrying the line, Fein will directly contact a nearby boutique to introduce them to the line. So far, the plan is working. To others in the bridal industry, the ability to thrive without advertising may seem implausible. But, as Lee Fein explains, brides still know that they exist. “Today, every bridal store has a website. On their website they feature the designers that they carry, so in essence you are receiving national exposure without being in print media.” Fein felt that the online presence of the bridal stores eliminated the need to use traditional print advertising methods. He expands on this by saying, “There was no need to be in a local Philadelphia brides magazine when all of the bridal stores would already advertise for you that they carry your line.” Marisa has gone so far as to stop updating their own website,
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reasoning that the bridal store websites will show the selection of gowns for them. And once the brides are in the store, even those that have not heard of an unadvertised line are likely willing to try it on if it is in their price range, claims Fein. Unlike the ready to wear apparel industry, many brides are not familiar with the names of wedding designers and bridal lines until they begin their dress search. Amsale can seem just as unknown as Marisa to the bride walking into a bridal boutique, a fact that works in the favor of unadvertised lines.
The Allure to Bridal Boutiques The under-the-radar nature of the unadvertised bridal lines eliminates price shopping among local boutiques and allows store owners to make more on these gowns than on wellknown brands. Smart salespeople will show brides the unadvertised lines carried in the store since they are well aware of the potential for greater profit. The unadvertised lines can be exceptionally appealing to budget-conscious brides thanks to their competitive pricing. Marisa, for example, uses the exact same luxury fabrics from the same suppliers as top name brand bridal lines, yet is able to price their dresses at half the retail price. Brides are paying for the dress itself, not for the company’s advertising budget, states Fein.
of seventeen years through advertising. Nearly two decades of diligent advertising irrefutably played an important role in the company’s nationwide presence in top bridal boutiques. Initially launching an unknown, unadvertised line without promotion has the potential to doom a line to obscurity in an already competitive industry. So while the promise of continued success and cost savings sounds tempting, unadvertised bridal lines are best left to established companies. Getting in the door at top bridal boutiques, having brides call and ask if a store carries your brand, and free press mentions in magazines all come from consumer name brand recognition. These keys to success for a growing bridal line would be extremely difficult to achieve without an advertising budget. For bridal lines considering the unadvertised route, the best words of advice are to tread carefully. Consider all the angles, pros, cons and possibilities before abandoning a time-tested method for creating consumer attention, and realize that you will also be saying farewell to having a name brand. Name brand recognition is a small price to pay for some, but can be everything for others.
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Marisa dresses generally retail from $1,500 to $2,600, while the same quality name brand dresses range $2,500 to $5,000. For brides looking at quality and style, the allure of the price difference is undeniable. Fein is quick to reiterate the biggest benefit to boutiques: a healthy markup on the dresses. “When a girl goes into a bridal store with a particular budget and already has a look in mind, you can show the [unadvertised] dress and make a great markup. And you don’t have to worry about being price shopped.”
So, To Advertise or Not To Advertise? Clearly Marisa has enjoyed success while eliminating the costs associated with advertising. Though this business model can be an ideal approach for some, it certainly is not for every bridal line. Notably, before they were unadvertised, Marisa built a solid brand and name recognition over the course
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Alessandra R is Distributed in North America by Mercury Fashion Group 888-796-7679 www.MercuryFashionGroup.com
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The Story of Bella Bridesmaids by: Yelena Jenkins
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fter spending three grueling years earning her law degree, Bridget Brown moved to San Francisco in 1998 with no intention of practicing law. Instead, she founded Bella Bridesmaid, a bridesmaid dress business that has grown to include 29 locations across the country, with ten more opening in 2009. The secret to her growth has been creating the perfect recipe for repeatable success; the same recipe that made McDonald’s a worldwide phenomenon - the franchise.
Much like her unplanned foray into the bridal industry, Brown did not initially plan on creating a franchise-
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based business model. Bella Bridesmaid began in a tiny, one room top floor Victorian building in San Francisco’s lively Marina district. Business grew slowly at first without the aid of a business loan. “Each time I sold a bridal party, it enabled me to buy more samples [and] invest in printed collateral,” Brown explained. Thus Bella Bridesmaid was born, one bridal party at a time. The concept behind Bella Bridesmaid is to offer brides a modern, fresh approach to the traditional bridesmaid dress shopping experience. Brown noticed that when a bride went shopping for her wedding dress, the bridesmaids dresses were presented
as an afterthought. Stores that offered both wedding gowns and bridesmaid dresses also tended to hustle both decisions into the same appointment, which was overwhelming for the bride. “I think it’s hard to as a bride to focus on finding her own dress and then throw the bridesmaids dress decision into the mix all at once,” she explains. “Bella Bridesmaid [provided] a separate shopping occasion where the bride can focus her attention solely on her bridesmaids and allow herself to enjoy both experiences - wedding gown shopping and bridesmaid dress shopping - equally,” adds Bridget. The concept was a smart one, and brides
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responded enthusiastically to the first San Francisco boutique. But brides were not the only group who loved Brown’s concept - top names in bridesmaid dress design also fell in love with the idea of a “bridesmaid only” boutique. Brown initially sought out designers who were making their name as chic bridesmaid dress designers including Simple Silhouettes, Jenny Yoo and Charsa. The business grew by word of mouth, and today Bella Bridesmaid boasts a large selection of fashion-forward bridesmaid dress designers that stylish brides crave: Coren Moore, Melissa Sweet, Priscilla of Boston, Two Birds, Lula Kate, Alix & Kelly, Vera Wang, Amsale, Queue, Tricia Fix and Kathlin Argiro, in addition to the aforementioned brands. Brown’s idea of the ‘bridesmaid only’ boutique was a success with bridesmaid lines and brides alike, allowing the business to expand. After opening up five more Bella Bridesmaid boutiques on her own, Brown soon came to realize that there were limitations involved with trying to be a hands-on owner operator of so many stores across a wide geographic span. After much research and contemplation, Brown decided to franchise her business. Brown realized the importance of having her boutiques be owner-operated, and felt that this type of business works well due to the owner’s emotional and financial investment in the company. Keeping with the tradition of the original Bella Bridesmaid, Brown wanted the owners of all Bella Bridesmaid franchise stores to be in the store every day working with customers to identify the trends and desires unique to the store’s location. She hoped this would allow the individual stores to follow regional trends and adapt their sales and samples accordingly to best serve their customer base. Setting up Bella Bridesmaid as a franchise business was a smart move, both for Bridget and for the women who opened subsequent franchised stores. Statistics from the U.S. Department of Commerce back up Brown‘s decision, as 90% of franchise businesses are still operating after ten years whereas 82% of independent businesses fail. Brown
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believes that success is achieved at much higher rates since franchisees can share in the secrets of her business model while avoiding the pitfalls she endured opening a small business. Creating a successful small business recipe is a long road filled with setbacks and failure, and franchisees benefit tremendously from the direction they receive with proven ways to thrive as a business. For Bella Bridesmaid, the key to a well-run franchise business is keeping the stores consistent across the country. “Each franchisee receives an Operations Manual that outlines everything from how their store should look and feel to how we do day-to-day business,” says Brown. “The paint on our walls, our logo and our demeanor are consistent from coast to coast. You can walk into a Bella Bridesmaid in New York city and one in Greenville, South Carolina and know that you are in the same store.” Bridget believes that keeping the look and feel of the Bella Bridesmaid stores consistent strengthens the brand. Individual franchises also benefit from Bella Bridesmaid’s established selection of designer dress lines that would be difficult to accumulate as a start up business. Franchisees can pick and choose from amongst the designer lsit to fill their stores with a selection of dresses that best suit the local demographic. Each store contributes to a yearly national advertising budget, which allows Bella Bridesmaid to take out full-page ads in mammoth bridal publications like InStyle Weddings.
endless compliance issues and different regulations and reporting guidelines for every state, something that her law degree helped her tackle. Finding the right people to entrust with your store’s name and brand can also be a challenge, though Brown considers herself lucky to work with smart, energized and professional franchisees. Even in an economy where small business are struggling to keep afloat, Bella Bridesmaid franchises are thriving. Another ten boutiques are slated to open this year, and Brown believes that the bridesmaid dress industry is fairly insulated from the economic storm. She has found that some brides are even forgoing the traditional bridesmaid gift in order to help pay for part or all of the dresses, which retail from $175 - $450. Brides are prioritizing their budget and making smarter choices, but are still spending money on necessary items like bridesmaid dresses. As the success of Bella Bridesmaid can attest, savvy brides will always find a way to include the important style elements they need to make their special day beautiful, weak economy or not.
Ms. Brown characterizes her experiencing turning Bella Bridesmaid into a successful franchise as a rewarding experience. She has loved every second of it, despite the big changes in her role that she found herself unprepared for. “I went from being on the floor, working with customers in my San Francisco boutique to becoming a teacher and mentor for franchisees across the country,” she explains. “Moving from selling dresses to selling franchises was certainly an adjustment.” Turning a single owner business into a large franchised company is not for everyone, nor is it for every business. As Brown can attest, franchising a business is a massive undertaking that involves
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rides Maid’s dresses and Mother of Bride gowns are integral design features in every wedding. Often relegated to secondary status, these gowns are anything but background fabric. Designers take greater risks and bolder strokes with every season that passes. Drawing inspiration from the runways of New York, we witness which styles and silhouettes are on the horizon while examining the current design trends.
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FUTURE STYLES: New York Fashion Week Designer: Farah Angsana
17 Images Courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week
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FUTURE STYLES: New York Fashion Week Designer: Georges Chakra
Images Courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week
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FUTURE STYLES: New York Fashion Week Designer: Erin Fetherston
Designer: Caroline Herrera
19 Images Courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week
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FUTURE STYLES: New York Fashion Week
Designer: Ralph Lauren
Designer: J. Mendel
Images Courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week
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FUTURE STYLES: New York Fashion Week
Designer: Badgley Mischka
21 Images Courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week
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FUTURE STYLES: New York Fashion Week Designer: Lela Rose
Images Courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week
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FUTURE STYLES: New York Fashion Week Designer: Tadashi Shoji
Designer: Venexiana
23 Images Courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week
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CURRENT TRENDS: Brides Maids Designer: Kathlin Argiro
Designer: Charsa Maids
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CURRENT TRENDS: Brides Maids Designer: Jenny Yoo
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CURRENT TRENDS: Mother of the Occasion Designer: Gail Garrison
Designer: Rose Taft
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confession
Trunk Shows: Are Designer Representatives Really Necessary?
I am designer’s representative. It’s a funny job – I get to travel across the
representative accompanies the collection
country, meet interesting people, work
on its tour in their stead.
directly with brides and help stores make sales. I’ve been mooned more times than
Despite some store and boutique owners’
I can remember (seriously ladies – what’s
insistence they have plenty of experience
the deal with no underwear?) and have
and don’t need help, a representative can
endured too many mother/daughter battles
be an invaluable tool when it comes to
than one should in a life time.
selling wedding gowns.
Yet I’m eyed with suspicion by some sales
Representatives also provide an excellent
associates who are convinced that I’m
resource for designers as they prepare
trying to steal their job and more than a
looks for the following season.
few just plain ignore me. Occasionally I’m made to feel that I’m in the way and not needed at all.
Intimate Product Knowledge: I know things that no one else does
Well, I’m here to say, loud and clear, I am necessary. (And I’m not after anyone’s job)
Every bridal collection is different. Despite the obvious superficial similarities, each
As the modern world has put increasing
designer infuses their collection with a
pressure on a designer’s time, a
unique combination of silhouettes, fabrics, beadings and style. The range of options within a single collection can sometimes be staggering.
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During a trunk show, over 20 gowns
gown must be understood to help the bride
may arrive at the store which the sales
find her perfect dress.
associates have never had experience selling before. It’s an impossible task to
A designer rep has the benefit of living and
learn the nuances of each gown before a
breathing the collection for most of the year.
show.
Using our experience we can find the right gown quickly and help to close the sale.
Designer Reps are taught detailed information on each of the gowns in
Advocate of the Brand
the lines. From the types of fabrics and beadings used, to which gown works the
A trunk show is a financial risk for the store.
best on different body types. I spend weeks
The boutique or salon must pay for the
just learning the in-ands-outs of each dress
gowns to be shipped and typically cover
in the collection.
the travel and accommodation for the rep. But the trunk show is an equal risk for the
A sale can hinge on whether the proper
designer.
silhouette is matched against a particular body type. If a sales associate is unfamiliar
A designer earns their living on good
with the dresses in the collection, the right
products and a good reputation. A
dress may never be tried on! It’s not enough
trunk show exposes a career’s worth of
to identify the drop waist gowns versus the
reputation to misrepresentation. The last
natural waist gowns, the subtleties of each
thing any designer wants is a person not 100% familiar with the line making
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promises about potential changes or
I’ve heard comments ranging from “This
Now is not the time to take chances. Reps
delivery dates.
looks horrible” to “This dress makes me
like me, with our intricate product and
look so skinny” and “if only this dress didn’t
experience, can quickly augment a sales
I help to make sure that the right promises
have this feature” – I notice trends. If I see
staff’s knowledge base and provide them
are made and kept – delivery dates, factory
and hear the same comments over and
the tools to make sales.
alterations and different colors.
over, I’ll let people know so next year’s collection will be even better.
First Hand Observations: I’m the eyes and ears of the designer
than finishing a trunk show with orders in When a store picks up a collection, they relationship with the designer. I’m there to make sure the product gets better every
interact consumers, i.e. brides. Designers
year.
create, to some degree, in a vacuum. The select their samples. A designer gets only a small picture of what the overall consumer
hand.
are entering into a long term business
Trunks shows are fantastic opportunities to
designs are debuted at market and stores
Nothing can be better for a store owner
I Travel Light Lately a lot of stores are under financial pressure and are backing off of paying for
In Tough Time Reps Are Even More Important: I make sales!
trends are.
reps to accompany the trunk show. It’s true that a store is usually responsible for airfare and accommodations and that those costs can be a burden. In my case, and probably
I can make sales. What better reason
in many others, designers are now capping
A trunk show provides the designer a
can you think of to have me in a down
the expenses of the flight at $200.
unique opportunity through me, their
economy!
representative, to listen to what the bride
For a two night stay in a moderate hotel
likes and what she dislikes. It’s unusual to
Brides are more frugal than every before.
and flight capped at $200, an investment
get such honest insight directly from their
While the quantity of brides is about the
in a rep may cost no more than $400. The
consumer – a bride would never say the
same, the scrutiny with which they spend
small investment in return for more sales
same things directly to a designer as she
has never been greater. They’ll shop more,
and detailed product knowledge is well
would to me. A representative becomes
looking for the best deal. They may even be
worth it! If I bring in just one more sale, I’ve
a third party that can listen, observer and
willing to sacrifice the perfect dress if the
paid for myself and more.
take notes on what style elements are
“pretty close” dress is significantly cheaper.
successful and which are not.
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Plus, we’re fun.
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Lea-Ann Belter Bridal offers affordable elegance made in North America. Exclusive territories are available. Lea-Ann is the proud recipient of the 2007 Designer of the Year award.
LEAANNBELTER.COM •
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For more information: International Sales Manager, Karen Lackner, 440 915 3704 or karen@lea-annbelter.com
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DESIGNER: MA
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MARIA ELENA by: Kara Targonski
n 1992, Maria Elena’s
brand’s creative director, and Maria
the production work. Every piece
daughter, Marile, couldn’t find a
Elena’s sister heads up the quality
in the collection is made by hand
headpiece she wanted to wear for her
control department. And of course,
exactly to Maria Elena’s specifications.
wedding. Unlike a typical mother of the
there is Maria Elena, who is the
Once finished, each tiara, brooch,
bride, Maria Elena didn’t search every
founder, namesake, and designer.
or handbag is carefully scrutinized to
nearby bridal salon to find the perfect
Maria Elena creates every prototype
ensure every stone, prong, or bit of
headpiece—she simply made her own.
for the new collection by hand,
ribbon is flawless and stable before
“She has always been very crafty,”
drawing on inspiration from antiques
being shipped to stores. Quality
says Maria Elena marketing and sales
and vintage heirloom jewelry. Without
is a key component of the brand
director Gisele Del Busto. Today,
an art background or formal training
strategy- and while manufacturing the
Maria Elena is known for her intricate
influencing her work, her process is
headpieces and jewelry overseas could
filigree headpieces, many of which are
very hands on. “She does not draw
be a less expensive option, it is one the
dotted with seed pearls, encrusted with
anything,” says Del Busto. “She has a
brand would not consider.
Swarovski crystals, and woven with
room in the back where she has all of
silk ribbon. Maria Elena also produces
her filigree and she just starts playing
Del Busto spends most of her days
jewelry, hairpieces, and handbags.
with the ribbon, crystals, and filigrees
concerned with the brand’s image
But it was that very first ceramic
until she creates something beautiful.”
and how well it is performing in the
headpiece, created for her daughter, which started the brand. “We are like a family,” says Del
marketplace. With a presence in over Del Busto credits in-house production as
seventy stores in the US and overseas,
a major factor of the brand’s success.
exclusivity has become an important
“The only way to have total control
part of the Maria Elena business
Busto. And Maria Elena Headpieces
of your product is to manufacture it
strategy. “We are very particular about
is, in most ways, a family business.
in house.” After completing a design,
who carries our line,” says Del Busto.
For many years, Marile acted as the
Maria Elena passes the finished piece
“The brides who buy our product are
to her team of artisans who handle
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DESIGNER: MARIA ELENA the higher end brides, so we want Maria Elena in higher end stores.” Maria Elena is exclusive in Kleinfeld, and Del Busto is working on gaining exclusive relationships with other bridal salons as well. Del Busto plans to limit the number of stores which carry the line in any given area to ensure that Maria Elena continues to be a special and coveted line. Trunk shows are another crucial focus area for the brand. “During season I am out of town all of the time,” says Del Busto. “I love doing the trunk shows. I get to deal with the bride. I get to see the reaction of the bride with our pieces. To me this is most
they are meant to be worn.” Del Busto
and business cards. For Del Busto,
can’t stress enough how important the
the update is about making the brand
trunks shows are. “It is important to get
look modern and fresh, to represent
her collection out there and known,”
Maria Elena in the marketplace as an
says Del Busto.
elegant, exclusive brand. But all of it—the website, the new packaging,
Del Busto acknowledges that Maria
the trunk shows-- are simply what Del
Elena has made an impact in the
Busto describes as a ‘translation’ of
marketplace since the very first
Maria Elena’s inspiration and vision.
collection, but no one at Maria Elena
Maria Elena’s vision began with one
is willing to rest on previous successes.
headpiece created for her daughter,
This year, Del Busto has a complete
but a strong commitment to quality,
website overhaul planned. Recently,
a dedication to the customer, and
all of the packaging and marketing
superior craftsmanship has turned
materials were updated. Changes
Maria Elena into a successful bridal
include a pearlized white with silver
accessory business.
color scheme and crisp square boxes
important—being a part of that special moment.” Equally important is training the store staff on the collection. During each trunk show Del Busto likes to spend at least thirty minutes with the staff. “I sit down with them and show them how to sell the gowns with the headpieces. I show them how to wear the headpieces. We have a lot of ribbon headbands, so I give them a little training on hair, and show how
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Store in Focus: BELLA BIANCA by: Yelena Jenkins
T
imes are undoubtedly
industry trends, their budding
tough for small business owners,
boutique just outside Chicago is
even in the seemingly untouchable
quietly thriving.
bridal industry. Financially stable couples are losing jobs, brides are
Sisters Melissa Russell and Natalie
cutting their budgets, and large
Bauer always knew they would
dream weddings are being scaled
end up working together. Growing
down to intimate family affairs.
up in a family where their mother
During a time when most aspiring
and father ran small businesses,
entrepreneurs are putting their
they understood the hard work
business dreams on the backburner,
and dedication required to run
two sisters decided to weather the
a small business of their own.
storm and launch an upscale bridal
Prior to opening Bella Bianca,
store called Bella Bianca. Bucking
Melissa was a project manager
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35 3/10/09 3:47:49 PM
for Jam Productions while Natalie
and Melissa crafted a business
loan. Their biggest challenge in
worked as a marketing manager
plan in late 2007 for their own full-
bringing their business dream to
for Mesirow Financial. Though
service bridal boutique.
reality was locating the ideal space
their former career fields seem
for their new boutique. “We were
to be a stretch from the wedding
“It took us exactly one year
looking for a free-standing building
industry, the sisters credit
from when we decided to move
that was large enough to hold the
their success to past jobs that
forward with the business to secure
concept we had for the store, and
required a tremendous level of
financing, find a location and
was also in a central location,” she
customer service and relationship
complete the space,” Melissa said.
explained. After a long search, the
management - cursory skills for
Financing came from a combination
sisters settled on a 6,000 square
running a bridal boutique.
of personal savings, family
foot space in Oakbrook Terrace,
investment, and a small business
an area easily accessible by major
Natalie and Melissa’s foray into the bridal industry began after their own disappointing experiences shopping for wedding gowns. “While the gowns were beautiful, we felt that the experience itself was missing an element of excitement that we assumed would accompany finding a wedding gown,” Melissa explained. The sales consultants were not always friendly, and the focus was more on making a quick sale than on helping them find the perfect wedding dress. In some stores, they found the layout and design uninviting, and felt that digging through racks of tightly packed dresses did not allow brides to properly see the gowns. Resourceful and determined to create something better, Natalie
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highways that was close to the
free marketing experience to get
established stores [accustomed to
suburbs and Chicago. Oakbrook
the word out about Bella Bianca.
the days of big spending], that may
Terrace is also known for its high-
Natalie and Melissa issued a press
find it more difficult to cut back and
end retail stores, making it the
release to local newspapers, took
make adjustments.” Opening Bella
perfect spot for an upscale bridal
out ads in major industry websites
Bianca in a recession also impacted
boutique to put down roots.
and local bridal magazines, and
the sisters’ selection of wedding
hosted a grand opening party.
gown designers. Instead of carrying
While launching their business,
Local press, industry contacts and
only high-end, pricey labels, they
Melisa and Natalie focused on
brides were invited to the opening
focused on choosing quality dress
creating the elusive experience that
event help create a buzz about
designers that encompassed a wide
they felt they missed out on. “It was
their boutique in the community.
price range.
be large, with all of the gowns
But according to Melissa, the
Ines Di Santo, Liancarlo, Renella De
out on the sales floor for brides to
most useful advertising tool so
Fina, San Patrick, Novia D’Art, and
see. We chose high end materials
far has been bridal website The
Alfred Sung made the final edit,
for every square inch to ensure
Knot, along with positive word of
with gowns retailing from $1,000
that brides felt that the interior of
mouth from satisfied brides sharing
to $8,000. The variation in gown
the store matched the caliber of
their experience with friends.
prices gives budget-conscious
gown that they were purchasing.”
Additionally, Bella Bianca’s user-
brides plenty of price flexibility,
Additionally, they made sure that
friendly website has helped bring in
while still offering a selection
there was plenty of room for the
a steady amount of business during
of top-notch couture dresses for
bridal entourage to ‘ooh’ and ‘ahh’
their first few months, allowing them
those wish to spend more. Though
over the bride in her dress. “Our
to meet financial projections.
Bella Bianca is just establishing
very important to us that our store
favorite part of shopping for our
itself, the owners’ sharp business
gowns was spending the day with
“With no prior sales, we can’t
instincts and focus on providing
our mother, sisters and friends, so it
comment on how the economy
value to customers sets a promising
is very important to us that there is
has impacted us at this point,”
precedent for future success.
ample space for each group to feel
says Melissa. But she will admit
at home,” Melissa added.
that launching a business in a bad economy certainly has an
Though they spent readily to create
advantage: “We will learn to
a high-end space with upscale
maintain our financial stability in [a
materials, they relied on their own
tough] environment, as opposed to
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Callie Tein
Mother of the OCCASION by: Kara Targonski
A
ncillary collections can add additional profit and increased customer satisfaction for bridal designers. Callie Tein, owner of Modern Trousseau in Connecticut, knows just how successful (and profitable) an extra collection can be for a designer. In addition to her line of modern and elegant bridal gowns, she sells an extensive collection of what she refers to as “mother of the occasion dresses” or “MOTO” for short. This collection, designed exclusively for mothers, offers over a hundred mix and match pieces in the finest lined silks.
“I never thought I would end up in Bridal,” says Callie Tein owner of Modern Trousseau. “When I started it was very much the Princess Diana look--big hair, even bigger dresses, and lots of beadwork and lace.” But after completing her degree at the
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Royal Melbourne Institute of Design, she began an apprenticeship for wedding gown designer Mariana Hardwick. Under Hardwick’s tutelage she discovered two things: her personal design aesthetic (which she describes as very classic and elegant) and a love for designing bridal. “Once you have designed wedding gowns there is no going back,” says Tein. And Tein hasn’t looked back. Her original line only offered bridal gowns but by the end of 2005 she had added a small collection of mother of the bride dresses to accommodate her clients. “Mother’s would come in begging for a dress,” Tein says. “At the time, there was really nothing out there for them.” In response to her customer’s request Tein designed a very small collection of four mix and match pieces and debuted them during a trunk show. “I was so nervous,” Tein says. “I was waiting there and thinking ‘I only have four pieces. No one is coming.’” But her fears were unfounded. The collection was a hit. Tein credits the early success of her ‘Mother of the Occasion’ collection to her willingness to listen to the feedback from her customers. Mothers and brides are two very different customers, and Tein never forgets this when she is designing the ancillary collection. “You are designing for a mature figure,” Tein says. “The mothers have issues with
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their arms. They have tummies that they want to hide, so I design the collection to hide figure flaws.” Tein also designs the collection to be beautiful and elegant. “So many of the mothers want to fade into the background,” she says. “But I remind them to have fun with it. I tell them, ‘We don’t do frumpy, we do fabulous.” Looking fabulous in a couture gown doesn’t come cheap, and cost is the primary reason why Tein refuses to branch out into apparel for the rest of the bridal party. Each dress in the ‘Mother of the Occasion’ collection is custom made in Connecticut by a team of ten seamstresses. “We do a lot of custom work, custom measurements. Each piece is cut by hand,” Tein says. While she doesn’t feel the average retail price point of her ‘Mother of the Occasion’ gowns ($800-$1200) would work for the bridesmaid dress market, Tein knows that the mothers don’t mind paying for a couture dress. Tein doesn’t disclose exactly how profitable her “Mother of the Occasion” collection is, but she does mention that “both areas of the business (the bridal gowns and MOTO)are doing very well.” Well enough, that Modern Trousseau has been able to grow during an economic crisis. Tein has added extra staff, and is trying to expand the collection into more stores. She credits running a small, flexible business with Modern
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Trousseau’s success during a difficult economy. “We can react quickly to various trends. We can keep our top end to fewer pieces and expand the lower end of the line. We can change quickly. We don’t have to seek approval from different levels of management. We don’t have to call China.” And with more and more customers seeking items ‘made in America’ Modern Trousseau is well positioned to win over more customers. “I just want to dress the three most important women in the wedding-the bride, the mother of the bride, and the mother of the groom,” says Tein. Her business model is a smart one for other designers and bridal salon owners to follow, particularly in an economic climate where even the virtually recession proof wedding industry, has seen a little belt tightening. Why dress only one woman in the wedding when you can dress three?
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