CLAUDIA DEMCAK
T E C H N I C A L F A S H I O N D E S I G N E R
Activewear Streetwear Top
A knit polyester tank top with a small neckline, radiating gathers from the left waist, and an asymmetrical slash and spread peplum. The back has a gathered mesh centre panel sewn into the neckline binding and has three rows of coverstitched knit trim, with a gathered mesh tail draping over the peplum. WSP: $37 SRP: $82
Inspiration
Positive Element
April
Binding (cut from self) coverstitched to neckline and armholes.
S
Fabric Guide
S
Nylon,
Elastic trim topstitched witha cover stitch to keep mesh panel in place.
C
Notion Guide
Coverstitched hem.
Logo placement.
Radiating gathers, tacked with a coverstitched trim.
Prototype
S
Chirico Tank
8, 2014 Spring/Summer 2014 40-60WS/S 2-needle 4-T.Serge Flatlock Style Number: Style Name: STYLE CARD Date: Season: Stitch Guide
Self 100% Polyester Cotton-covered elastic trim C Contrast 80%
20% Spandex
Final
Cycling Jacket
Technical, water-resistant shell jacket for commuting cyclers with removable sleeves, invisible pit zips, and three zipper pockets with zipper garages. Sleeve cuffs are finished with athletic binding and contain knit cuffs with thumbholes that can be tucked inside.
STYLE CARD
Style Number: Style Name:
1-Needle
Chain Stitch
4-T.Serge
70-60WS Bronwyn Cycling Shell Jacket
Date: Season: Stitch Guide
Zipper facing extends over front of zipper to prevent the cold plastic zipper end from touching the chin.
Collar connected to the sleeves that zip off.
Fabric Guide
S Self
100% Polyester
October 29, 2014 Spring 2015
Zipper facing with tiny wind flap, so that when wind goes through the zipper it flows down and out.
Hidden zippers from side seam to edge of shorter collar that when unzipped remove the sleeves and back yoke.Raglan sleeve
Invisible zippers for pit zips that go around to the back.
Heat sealed zipper openings with plastic zippers and a zipper garage. Mesh pocketbag with serged edge.
Darts in shoulders to create a curved, accurate fit.
Darts in sleeve elbows for articulation.
M Mesh
100% Nylon
L Lycra
Sleeve knit cuffs are hidden under sleeve but can be pulled out to cover hands while cycling. Thumbhole is bound with athletic binding. Cuff Front Cuff Side
100% Spandex L
S M
(insidepocketbags)
Notion Guide
Invisible Zipper Water Resistant Plastic Zipper
Seam Seal Tape
Elastic Binding
Mesh pocketbag is topstitched around. Heat sealed zipper openingswith plastic zipper and a zipper garage.
Sleeve edges are finished with athletic binding, sewn with a chain stitch.
S
Hem finished with a facing.
Armhole edges bound with athletic binding.
Gathering for a feminine design detail.
Commuters’
Prototype
Full Technical Package
Style
Face Card
This jacket was one of two that made it in the display case at my school, including drafting process and specification package.
included:
Card Pattern
Bill of Materials Fitting Revisions Sequence of Construction Measurements
Gerber Patterns
Men’s Hooded Rain Jacket
Women’s Leggings
Men’s Cropped Track Pants Women’s Crewneck ThermalLondon Exchange: Flou Atelier Flats
F L O U A T E L I E R
F A S H I O N T R A I L
C L A U D I A D E M C A K
University for the Creative Arts • Fashion Atelier • Year 2 • Semester 2
Flats and descriptions of draped garments for research for final draping projects: bias cut and fabric manipulation.
DESIGNER: Versace
STORE: Selfridges
PRICE: £5,470.00
FABRIC: 100% Silk (self and lining)
FINISHING: Fully lined, hem is catchstitched under the lining.
DRAPING TECHNIQUE: The fabric is folded into tiny pintucks that are handsewn to a foundation layer as separate panels before the panels are sewn together and lined. (I have studied Madame Gres’ techniques and created a half scale pastiche of one of her micro pleated dresses. I assume Versace used the same or a similar technique.)
* 10
*
Thesis Collection - Technical Specification
Yugen Coat
Stitch Guide
Notion Guide 1-Needle
Style Number: T80-10-FW17
Style Name: Yugen Coat
T H R I V E S T Y L E C A R D
Date: March 17, 2016
Season: Fall/Winter 2016/2017
Description: A classic lined wrap coat with large patch pockets, inseam pockets, a belt and decorative topstitching.
Patch on facing
3 45L/28mm Gold Buttons
Buttonhole in only the self and not the facing on the lapel, near the collar.
Bound buttonhole.
Pleat in centreback of lining.
Button underneath
Buttons placed here. Buttons attached to left side and buttonholes in right side’s facing.
Back neckline facting is topstitched through all layers.
Front of jacket closed:
Clothing Label
1cm Butterscotch Ribbon Binding
Rotated view: Inseam pocket is sewn on the inside to the self and the external patch pocket is placed on top.
T H R I V E M E A S U R E M E N T S
Patch pocket extends past side seam by 1.5 cm.
Kickpleat.
N/AN/A 5 1/2" N/A 5
N/AN/A 16 1/2" N/A 15
N/AN/A 39 1/2" N/A 38
N/AN/A
N/AN/A
N/AN/A
N/AN/A
N/AN/A
N/AN/A
N/AN/A
N/A
1/2" N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
1/2" N/A
N/AN/AN/AN/AN/A
N/AN/A
N/AN/A
N/A N/A
N/A
1/4" N/A
N/A
© Claudia Demčak
CodePoint of Measurement Neck 1aFront Neck Drop 1bBack Neck Drop 2 3Neck Circumference Shoulder 4Shoulder Length
5/8" 5Across Shoulder
3/4" 6a
1/2" 6b
36"
36" 6c
30
28" 7a Across Back
16 3/4"
16 3/4" 7b
21"
22" 8Across Chest (Total)
20"
40 1/2" 9Waist Length (HPS)
17"
16 1/4" 10aAcross Waist (Total Relaxed)
41
40 3/4" 10bAcross Waist (Total Exteneded)
11High Hip (4” from Natural Waist)
22 1/4"
21" 12Hip (7” from Natural Waist)
23
24" 13 Hem Sweep (Total)
63"
64"
Style: T80-10-FW17 Description: A classic lined wrap coat with two large patch Width Across Back Facing Seam TECHNICAL FLAT: Length Length (HPS) Length (CF) Length (Side)
Costing and Operations
TECHNICAL FLAT:
Style Number:
Range:
Wool SelfKendor10954150cmNutmeg11.00220 gsm3.00
Challis LiningGordon Fabrics58632145cm
Pattern10.00180 gsm1.50
Jacket FusingGordon Fabrics5549390cmblack 4.00185 gsm1.00
TYPE
Metal ButtonsAlibaba47
/
FABRIC COST:
1% Waste
Total
USAGEAMOUNT
3.00 1.50
Clothing TagEtsy 27994875/2.5cmwhite 1.00 0.50
C/C
Notion References:
Labels1078295.2cmwhite 1.00 0.20
PRICE/UNIT 0.50 0.50 0.20
TRIM COST: 2.20 5% Waste
Total 2.31
Page
1
Style Name: Season Size
Sample: Description: Date TYPE SUPPLIERITEM NUMBERWIDTH/SIZECOLOUR PRICE/UNITWEIGHT USAGEAMOUNT
33.00
Čičmany
15.00
4.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
52.00
0.52
52.52$
SUPPLIERITEM NUMBERWIDTH/SIZECOLOUR
45L
28mmgold
LabelC/C
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00 0.00
0.11
$ © Claudia Demčak
T H R I V E B I L L o f M A T E R I A L S , C O S T I N G & O P E R A T I O N S T80-10-FW17 Yugen Coat Fall/Winter 2016/2017 XS - L S A classic lined wrap coat with patch & inseam pockets, belt and decorative topstitching. 16-Mar-16 FABRIC DESCRIPTION TRIM DESCRIPTION TECHNICAL FLAT: © Claudia Demčak Costing
and
Operations Page
1 Operations (only straight stitch machine) Time FLAT: 10.00 20.00 20.00 25.00 15.00 15.00 15.00 25.00 5.00 150.00 SUMMARY COSTS Rate/hour Time/Hours Amount FABRIC/NOTION COST: 54.83 Sewing $20.002.5 $50.00 62.50 Pattern $5.00 129.06 Cutting $2.50 246.39 Grading $2.50 24.64 Marker $2.50 $271.03 Total $62.50 $564.65 10% of sewing GROSS MARGIN (110%): Bodice and Skirt Collar 4 Pockets Set-in Sleeves + Shoulder Pad Buttonsholes + Buttons Total Minutes Pressing MANUFACTURING COST: Belt + Belt Loops SUGGESTED RETAIL PRICE 5% of sewing WHOLESALE COST 5% of sewing SALES AGENT FEE (10%): 5% of sewing TOTAL WHOLESALE PRICE MANUFACTURING BREAKDOWN Lining Hand Stitching
Stitch Guide
1-Needle
Style Number: T10-90-FW17
Balance Blouse
Notion Guide
3 16L/10mm Gold Buttons
Clothing Label
1cm Butterscotch Ribbon Binding
T H R I V E S T Y L E C A R D
Date: March 17, 2016
Style Name: Balance Blouse Description: A sleeveless blouse with a gathered waist and ties instead of side seams for fit and adjustability.
Clothing tag on facing at CB.
Season: Fall/Winter 2016/2017
Behind the back:
Neckline is faced. Facings have finished edges, folded over .5cm twice and topstitched.
Front Back Open View
Gathered
© Claudia DemčakStitch Guide
1-Needle
Style Number: T60-60-FW17
Style Name: Streamline Dress
Streamline Dress
T H R I V E S T Y L E C A R DDate: Dec. 4, 2015
Season: Fall/Winter 2016/2017
Description: A sleeveless dress with a slight A-line skirt with five triangular panels, waist pleats and wrap shoulder lines.
A hook and eye at the top of the invisible zipper.
Side vew of armhole and shoulder. Inside view of shoulder.
Coverstitch
Coverstitch (Underneath)
5-Thread Serge
Notion Guide
Side seams are serged seperatly and straight stitched together to the armhole.
Tips of triangle panels are left with slight holes and pleats are tacked over top. Invisible zipper ends here, at widest point of hips.
Armhole edges are folded over and coverstitched, and tacked at the bottom of the armhole. Corners of square piece of fabric are overlapped for shaping and the back edge is topstitched.
Front piece, which is underneath the front bodice, is hand stitched on the inside.
Back edge is tacked at the two shown corners.
1 Invisible Zipper
1 pair of Hooks and Eyes
Raw hem may be uneven but is evenly pressed and hand stitched with an invisible slip stitch.
Claudia Demčak©
DEMCAK
CLAUDIA