T H R I V E
z e r o
w a s t e
c l o t h i n g
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c o m p a n y
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L
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W A S T E M
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B E A U T Y
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t a b l e
o f
T H R I V E
c o n t e n t s
About Thrive . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . .
F/W ‘16/’17 Collection Concept . . . . . . . . .
. . 4
. . . . . .6
Capsule Collection: Three Final Looks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Outfit 1: Balance Blouse and Srnka Pants . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Outfit 2: Streamline Dress. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Outfit 3: Čičmany Kimono, Fukensei Skirt and Yugen Coat. . . . . 18 References & Credits. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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T H R I V E
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T H R A verb; to grow and
Our company is called Thrive because that is the state of living
that we aspire to. Not just for ourselves, but for the people and the planet. A world without waste is a world that is likely to thrive. We envision a world with less waste and more beauty. Our mission is to create thoughful and beautiful garments for women with holistic practices. Why?
Because fast fashion is a problem.
About 15% of fabric remnants result from the cutting stage of the
production process and end up in landfills and oceans. That’s roughly 60 billion square metres of fabric in a year. (McQuillan & Rissanen, 2016) Zero waste pattern cutting is a slow, holistic design approach that eliminates textile waste at the design step of the production of a garment. Imagine what a huge positive impact it would make if implemented by mass production fashion companies.
Our philosophies: I. Each zero waste design needs to be understandable. For consumers and for factories.
II. We do not compromise on fit. Each design has specific pieces that require a per-
fect fit. The other pieces are adjustable to fit into different widths of fabric. It helps that our aesthetic includes a lot of volume mixed with fit.
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T H R I V E
I V E develop with purpose III. No fabric goes to landfill. There is no limit to how much fabric is used in a piece, only the ensurance that no fabric is wasted. We have drawn up six steps for using fabric in order to never throw the scraps out to landfill, ever. They are used mostly in order as follows: 1. reduction
6. reclamation
2. reuse
T H R IV E
zero w a s t e 5. composting
3. repair
4. recycling
IV. Our studio does not have a garbage can. Accompanying Thrive’s production process, the team also keeps our office and personal lives as zero waste as possible.
V. Decisions and prolem solving are based on what is best for the people, the planet, and then profit. If it harms people or the planet, we don’t want any part of it. However, it is impossible to be perfectly ethical in every single case. We do our very best, and that is all we can do.
“Don’t invest in fashion. Invest in the world.” - Dame Vivienne Westwood (Grant, 2013)
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F/W ‘16/‘17 At Thrive we are inspired by the natural world, and the natural order of things. Our core design concepts are the Japanese Zen concepts of design, which are based on nature. Theses include Fukinsei: asymmetry, irregularity; Kanso: simplicity;
f ukensei
Koko: basic, weathered; Shizen: without pretense, natural; Yugen:
grace
subtly profound grace, not obvious; Datsuzoku: unbounded by convention, free; and Seijaku: tranquility.
The aesthetic of Thrive
fits seamlessly with the zero waste pattern cutting concept, as styles’ comfort, volume and ease allow for pattern piece adjustability.
inspiration
The fitted pieces also include
f rom
nature
some volume, so when a pattern piece has to be a specific measurement, a pattern piece with more ease can be fitted next to it.
cashew 6
nutmeg
deep sea
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T H R I V E
c o n c e p t This season the collection
history
is influenced by our designer’s Slovak heritage. The focus is on the grace, beauty, curiosity and poise of the Thrive woman. It draws inspiration from traditional Slovak culture, particularly the playful patterns of the historical village of Čičmany (pronouned Chichmany), the first town in the world to be declared a Reserve of Folk Architecture. (When On Earth, 2014). The silhouette of the season is a contemporary
clean
lines
take on the typical women’s Slovak folk clothing silhouette, involving plenty volume in the bodice and skirt and a feminine, cinched waist. We have also been
volume
particularly inspired by one of the core design principles of Thrive, the Japanese Zen design concept of Yūgen, meaning subtle but profound grace and minimalism, clothing that is not obvious. (May, 2013)
coal
Č i č m a n y
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C a p s u l e C o l l e c t i o n: Three Final Looks
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Out
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T H R I V E
f it 1 Balance Blouse
150 cm
Rest of Sash 1
Sash 2
Part of Sash 1
Pkt 1 Back Side Panel 1
Back tab 1
Back tab 2
Pkt 2 Front Bodice
Back Side Panel 1
Pkt 1
Back Side Panel 2
Back Side Panel 2
Back Bodice
Front Peplum
Back Side Panel for L Back Side Panel for L
Back Peplum
Streamline Dress and Srnka Pants Pattern Map
Srnka Pants
150 © cmClaudia Demčak
Back Neck Facing
Dress Back
Dress Front
Dress Back
Back Neck Facing
Front Neck Facing
Pants Pkt 1
Dress Belt
Dress Pkt 1 Pants Pkt 2 Dress Pkt 2 Left Pant Back
Dress Panel 1
Dress Pkt 2
2 Coin Pkts Left Pant Front
Dress Panel 2
Right Pant Front
Dress Panel 3
Right Pant Back
Dress Panel 4
Dress Panel Pants 5 Waistband
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© Claudia Demčak
T H R I V E
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Balance Blouse Extension panels replace side seams on this sleeveless blouse. The blouse is pulled over the head, fastened with buttons on the back and tied at the front with sashes. This silk crepe fabric has a beautiful drape but boning at the back side seams creates some structure. This style offers adjustability and function for women, while maintaining a flattering silhouette and contemporary feel that is appropriate for formal occassions as well as the workplace.
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Srnka Pants Srnka means deer in Slovak, our designer’s first language. For us at Thrive, the deer is a symbol of grace, beauty, curiousity and poise, the traits of women that we love. This pair of simple fashion pants have a feminine, high waist silhouette and are made of a comfortable, stretchy scuba knit. We are able to make such as classic, well-fitted pair of pants without producing any waste because we have designed the Streamline Dress to have pattern pieces that fit the Srnka Pants pattern puzzle. Hence, fit, style and luxury need not be sacrificed for sustainability.
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T H R I V E
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Out
f it 2
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Streamline Dress and Srnka Pants Pattern Map Streamline Dress 150 cm
Back Neck Facing
Dress Back
Dress Front
Dress Back
Back Neck Facing
Front Neck Facing
Pants Pkt 1
Dress Belt
Dress Pkt 1 Pants Pkt 2 Dress Pkt 2 Left Pant Back
Dress Panel 1
Dress Pkt 2
2 Coin Pkts Left Pant Front
Dress Panel 2
Right Pant Front
Dress Panel 3
Right Pant Back
Dress Panel 4
Dress Panel Pants 5 Waistband
Š Claudia D
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Streamline Dress This dress makes the lady in it feel feminine, cool and capable. How is it so magic? The comfortable shape and stretchy scuba knit fabric. The overlap shaping at the shoulders allows the dress to be perfectly fiited to the wearer’s back. The unexpected, sharp skirt panels that elongate the figure and come from the negative pieces from the pattern of the Srnka Pants. The result is a truly classic slow fashion piece that suits women of all ages.
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Out
f it 3
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Čičmany Blouse Pattern
Čičmany Blouse 102 cm Sleeve 1 Back Peplum Sleeve 1
Sleeve 2 Front Peplum Sleeve 2 Drawstring Casings Front Peplum Neck Back Facing
Front Left Bodice
Front Left Peplum
Bodice Blocks
Front Left Bodice Facing
Front Right Bodice Facing Front Right Peplum Front Right Bodice
Fukensei Skirt 150 cm
Skirt Front © Claudia Demčak
Skirt Back
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Čičmany Blouse Čičmany (pronounced Chichmany) is a village in Slovakia that was born in 1272, whose residents painted all of their buildings with their signature white motifs. Being from Slovak heritage, Thrive’s designer Claudia was intruiged by this village and developed a print inspired by it. This Slovak and Japenese-inspired kimono with gold aglets is a contemporary, luxe piece that is timeless, transitional through seasons and versitile as it can be worn for casual, professional or formal occassions.
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T H R I V E
Fukensei Skirt Fukensei is a Japanese Zen design concept that represents the irregularity and asymmetrical balance of nature. The symbol for this design concept is a painted circle that is finished but the paint stroke becomes thinner as it reaches the end. Learning about this concept, we realized that in reality nothing is perfectly balanced, but always finds a beautiful, imperfect balance. The Fukensei Skirt has uniform pleats that change width to fit the waist and represent asymmetrical balance.
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Yugen Coat Pattern
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T H R I V E
Yugen Coat 150 cm
extra for another size
coat back bottom left
coat back bottom right
front bodice facing 1
front skirt facing 2
front bodice facing 2
inseam under pocket 2 sleeve 1 front bodice 2 patch pocket 2
patch pocket 1
back bodice
inseam pocket 1
coat front bottom right
wide back belt loop 2 facing collar belt patch loop under pcs collar facing sleeve neck facing 2 over inseam sleeve 2 pocket 2
inseam pocket 1
coat front bottom left
hook loop
under sleeve pieces
front bodice 1
front over skirt facing 1 sleeve 1
Š Claudia Dem
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T H R I V E
Yugen Coat Yugen is one of the seven Japanese Zen design elements. It means subtle but profound grace. Its deeper meaning is - an awareness of the universe that triggers emotional responses too deep and mysterious for words. The ÄŒiÄ?many motif is repeated in this piece in the lining and the topstitching of the belt and collar. It creates a fond repetition and cohesiveness in the collection, and holds a special meaning that is not obvious. The warm, natural colour and ladylike, 1940s inspired silhouette inspires the wearer to feel grace.
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T H R I V E
r e f e r e n c e s Grant, Katie. “Vivienne Westwood: Everyone Buys Too Many Clothes.” News. Telegraph, Sep
tember 16, 2013. Retrieved from http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/
TMG10312077/Vivienne-Westwood-Everyone-buys-too-many-clothes.html.
May, Matthew. “7 Design Principles, Inspired By Zen Wisdom.” Fast Company Design | Business + Design, February 22, 2013. Retrieved from http://www.fastcodesign.com/1671947/7-de
sign-principles-inspired-by-zen-wisdom.
McQuillan, Holly & Rissanen, Timo. Zero Waste Fashion Design. NewYork: Fairchild Books,
2016.
When on Earch. “Čičmany: The World’s First Folk Architecture Reserve.” When on Earth, June 6,
2014. Retrieved from http://whenonearth.net/cicmany-worlds-first-folk-architecture-re
serve/
c r e d i t s Photographer: John Yoo / IAMJOHNYOO Models: Robin Danyluk and Madison Rice Hair and Makeup Aritst: Maliha Chughtai / Maliha Artistry Assistant Stylist: Jessica Chauhan
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zero
T H R I V E
waste
clothing
company
by Claudia DemÄ?ak