RigaNOW! Issue #64 by Aleksandrs Golovins

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Editor

Inese Timuka

Contributing writers

Jorgen Johansson Philip Birzulis Jekaterina Strelcova

Aleksandrs Golovins Copy editor Photographer Advertisement department

Anatol Steven Igors Timofejevs Solveiga Treija s.treija@next.magazine.lv

From your editor: w w w. b e s t r i g a . c o m RigaNOW! Brîvîbas 214b, 4th floor, Rîga, LV 1039, Latvia Tel. (+371) 6738 3499, Fax (+371) 6738 3099 e-mail: riganow@riganow.magazine.lv All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. RigaNOW! is a registered trademark of “SK Latvia”. While every effort is made to ensure accuracy, RigaNOW! cannot be held responsible for changes in dates, prices, and opening terms which may occur after press date. Magazine registration number: 000702728 RigaNOW! does not take press courtesy dinners, products, or trips for reviews. As a result, you can trust us to speak our mind. We’re always keen to help readers find interesting restaurants, entertainment, shops and new hotels. So please let us know if you have a favorite place we haven’t featured. e-mail: riganow@riganow.magazine.lv

March is a wonderful time of a year in Riga, when the first hints of the approaching warm weather are perceptible in the air. With the snow making its stubborn last stand and the ice on the Daugava River starting to crack from the pressures of warmer weather we can feel more reassured that the coming of spring is about to make its grand entrance. But it’s still chilly enough to stay indoors as much as possible, snuggled up with a hot drink in hand or enjoying a delicious dinner. And to help you find the best spots for this, we’ve put together our inaugural and prestigious Platinum Platter Awards proclaiming the city’s best of the best. Here you’ll find the finest restaurants, tastiest cuisine, coolest culture and much more – all in our humble opinion, of course! There’s plenty more to unearth, including dining, entertainment and shopping highlights in our What’s New section for those who like the freshest of the fresh that Riga can offer. Architecture lovers will find this issue’s Guided Tour of some of Riga’s wooden houses most fascinating. While some of these delightful old buildings have been painstakingly brought back to their former beauty and glory, others remain in an evocative state of disrepair. To check out more ways to enjoy the very best of this wonderful city, check out our brand new website, www.bestriga.com. It’s full of useful information on accommodation, recommendations for sightseeing and wandering, dining and shopping, and a business section with the latest investment news. Now, don’t get too excited, but I am personally inviting all of you to subscribe to our newsletters on the latest Riga has to offer. A subscription also provides you with a great chance to win an overnight stay in the penthouse of the upmarket Hotel Bergs and a gourmet dinner at the Bergs restaurant. How could you refuse? So come on spring and happy reading! Inese Timuka

www.sk.lv

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What’s new

By Inese Timu k a

Registan

Shake, rattle and yum!

NU Lounge Riga

Riga just got richer, with this cozy Italian wine bar, restaurant and shop all-in-one, located in a charming medieval building in the Old Town. If you’re lucky you will be met by the manager, Luca Barbieri, who will personally ensure you have a great time. The venue is divided into two levels. Upstairs carries a light, bright atmosphere with several tables where you can sit for a cup of coffee, a glass of wine, a dish of tortellini or gnocchi or just to browse the shelves of the Italian goods on offer. The dishes on the menu change daily, but the manager assured us that everything was super-fresh. Luca explained that you can find here to prepare excellent Italian cui-

Freshest of the fresh Hungry for lovely food in the middle of the day? Try Gastronome’s new business lunch, available every weekday from 11:00 to 16:00. Combine a delicious lunch of soup and salad with a pasta or grilled dish, suitable both for meat and seafood lovers, priced at €10.70. From four soups on offer, we opted for Fish Consommé, which proved to be a sumptuous start. Succeeding that we sampled the Catch of the Day grilled meal, which includes a variety of seafood specially chosen by the chef. For us, the platter included a thick and lightly grilled pilchard, an succulent perch and a saithe fillet.

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sine at home, starting from good-quality olive oil to Giuditta brand ready-meals. Even the experienced chef, Franco Vignoli, will share his cuisine secrets. Head downstairs if you want a calmer atmosphere for your dinner or make a reservation for a private party. The wine list covers virtually every region of Italy. More than 50 of the wines come with the budget-friendly price of €2.80 per glass. Every Thursday from 19.00-20.00 there’s a Happy Hour, where for €7 you’ll be served two glasses together with some “zakuski”. After experiencing this friendly atmosphere and tasty food you’ll certainly come back for more.

NU Lounge Riga Vecpilsētas 11 (G-4), tel. 2787 7756, Open Mon.-Thurs. 11:00-23:00; Fri.-Sat. 11:00-02:00

Registan Audēju 14 (H-3), tel. 6710 4421, Open daily, 10:00-22:00.

What we love best about this place is that the emphasis is placed on guaranteeing freshness. The company that owns the restaurant also supplies sea and ocean produce to most of the other restaurants in Riga. But naturally, Gastronome gets its deliveries first, guaranteeing the very freshest in town. The restaurant itself offers a classy yet casual environment. Calm golden and wood tones are offset by attractive lighting, some of which is by table lamplight to make things more intimate.

Gastronome Brīvības 31 (C-2), tel. 6777 2356, Open daily 11:00-23:00.

Gastronome

By G.Pavlins

Treated like at home

For folks who love to eat (and who doesn’t?), the world of dining brings up countless discussions of which restaurant truly offers a real authentic menu. Given Riga’s dynamic restaurant scene and its ever-changing landscape, we’re never lacking in subjects to spark the conversation. Another authentic venue has opened in Riga to enrich its dining scene further – Registan, located in the cellar of the Galerija Centrs shopping mall. The venue is spacious enough, decorated with azure-colored plates, kilims, traditionally woved Central Asian hats and ceramic men holding watermelons. However, its location in a shopping center prevents any genuine coziness from taking hold. The menu is impressive, as are the prices. Grilled meat dishes, stews and sweet desserts with quirky names like chak-chak and djiz-biz are on the menu, and tea is served up in traditional Uzbek bowls. The manager of the restaurant, Sandra, recommends sampling the Uzbek shashlik at €9.30 or the traditional rice-based Plov (€7-14) to feel the real taste of Uzbekistan. Coincide your visit with the performances of two belly-dancers, who shake and rattle every Friday and Saturday, 19.00-20.00.

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What’s new Kitty in the city A feline new bar called Cats has been unveiled in central Riga in place of the former funky club-restaurant Hedonija 55. After the makeover, the venue has become totally different. The new interior is quirky but, we have to admit, impressive. Art director Liene lead us on a small guided tour around the bar telling us with a grin that this is a place for all kinds of cats. Especially those that prowl at night. Once you enter you’ll find yourself in the middle of dark room with few light details. The bar is where all hungry and thirsty cats will be served, but deeper in is a tiny dancefloor, for cats who want to show off. For even braver felines there’s an even

darker VIP area with black leather beds... Miaow! In the basement is a Pink Panther bar, with lots of colorful details and a special lounge area with cushions for those who love to recline until dawn... At both bars there’s just a menu for drinks at the moment, but it’s immense, offering about 50 cocktails divided into various categories – classics, dirty little secrets, “super-heated” drinks and more. Prices range from €3.50 for shots to €8. Guest DJs feature at weekends.

Cats Dzirnavu 55 (C-2), Tel. 6724 2855, Open: Mon.-Wed. 10:00-24:00; Thurs. 10:0003:00; Fri. 10:00-07:00; Sat. 18:00-07:00.

Cats

Creative gifts Strolling through the busy streets of Riga a couple of weeks ago, we accidentally ran into a lovely new gift shop called Muhamors, located next to the recently opened restaurant Lidojumam Labveligs Laiks (which means, incidentally, “good weather for the flight”). The woman behind the concept of the gift shop, Dace Dravniece, opened the little salon together with two friends. All sorts of alluring curiosities are inside, made by the owners and other talented Latvian artists. Dace’s ceramic puffball lamps (€27-72) are one of a kind, staring at you from the shelves and adding to the shp’s intriguing atmosphere. Brightly colored knitted mittens, woven rugs and pillows filled with buckwheat husk, promising pleasant sleep at night, are among the assorted oddities. There’s plenty of choice for ladies’ jewelry too, starting from silver and gold earrings to porcelain beads (€28) that will delight anyone who wants to stand out from the crowd.

Grand new hotel in Riga

no matter what you choose for your stay, all are perfectly spacious and equipped with the best a demanding traveler could expect, ranging in price from €250 for a superior room to €1650 for a night in the empire-style Imperial Suite. On the first floor is an elegant French restaurant named Renommé and a wine bar, Gallery Vinoteka, offering an extensive wine list from the old and new worlds but with a special accent on French and Italian collection wines.

After years of preparation, the Gallery Park Hotel is ready to open its doors to sophisticated guests.

Gallery Park Hotel Kr. Valdemara 7 (B-2), tel. 6733 8830 www.galleryparkhotel.lv

Muhamors Gift Shop Baznicas 14 (C-2), tel. 2914 6710, Open: Mon.- Fri. 10:00-19:00, Sat. 11:00-19:00

Muhamors

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Gallery Park Hotel

The grand-looking Gallery Park Hotel is located in the city center next to picturesque Kalpaka Park, in a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage building originally constructed in 1875. Shortly before the opening we met Angela Blate, the hotel’s director, who said that the interior of three floors is inspired by the Napoleon III style of design, with every item and art piece on display picked up from antique shops or auctions, creating an atmosphere that is definitely of the Old World. If you prefer minimalism, however, and a highly aesthetic interior in combination with latest technologies, there are several rooms on the top floor with fantastic views of the city. There are 24 rooms in total, and

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Boutique Decadence Maza Smilšu Mon-Fri: 11.00 - 19.30 Sat: 11.00 - 18.00 Ph: +371 6722 7798

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Events Calendar MArch/april 01.03–15.04

20.03

Bach Chamber Music Festival

Back to the 90s

Time 20.00 Where: Arena Rīga For a trip down memory-kitsch lane, why not attend this event. Performing live will be those well-known artists of the period Haddaway, Ace of Base, Dr Alban, 2 Unlimited and Culture Beat.

More info: www.music.lv/bachfestiva The Bach Chamber Music Festival returns to Rīga each spring. This year welcomes back artists who have participated before as well as some new musicians, such as the «viola da gamba» virtuoso from Spain, Jordi Savall, and harpsichordist Kristian Bezuidenhout from Australia.

till 29.03 The Purvītis Prize Exhibition

Where: Exhibition Hall Arsenāls A recently founded award named after the old master of Latvian painting Vilhelms Purvītis, who has become a symbol of national identity, in which the winners are chosen every two years. Head to Arsenāls to check out the eight final candidates.

26.03

06.04

The Mermaid

I Virtuosi del teatro alla Scala

Time: 19.00 Where: Latvian National Opera The opera by Czech composer Antonín Dvořák gets a faithful rendering. Once upon a time, a mermaid saw a prince… And so begins the story of an impossible love, the mermaid being a water spirit of Slavic mythology unable to leave her watery home.

12.04

Organ music at Easter

Time: 19.00 Where: Riga Cathedral Enjoy fine performances in an atmospheric location by the bell ensemble Bells of Sloka and the talented local organist Inese Paiča.

Time: 20.00 Where: Latvian National Opera The musicians of the Italian chamber orchestra La Scala present treasures of classical music. Their repertoire is wide, including the greatest works of Baroque and 18th century chamber music, serenades, symphonies and concertos, and also a contemporary repertoire for chamber orchestras.

15.04

The Sandman

Time: 19.00 Where Latvian National Opera In this ballet, Nathanael, a young student, is bewildered and confused. He recalls episodes from his life, yet can’t differentiate between past and present, fantasy and reality... The entire, highly professional Latvian National Opera ballet troupe will be participating in this performance, making it one that shouldn‘t be missed.

Venues

27.04

Enrique Iglesias

When: 20.30 Where: Arena Riga The winner of two Grammys, among other awards, Enrique Iglesias is coming to Riga on his Greatest Hits Tour. He has sold 40 million albums in little over a decade, becoming one of the most successful artists in the history of pop music.

Tickets for most events can usually be purchased at Statoil gas stations, Biļešu paradīze and Biļešu Serviss box-offices, or on-line at www.bilesuparadize.lv and www.bilesuserviss.lv

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Find out more upcoming events on

www.bestriga.com

Arena Riga Concert Hall: Skanstes 21 (C-1), tel. 6738 8200 Artspace Riga (Rigas makslas telpa): Rātslaukums (entrance from. Kungu, 3) ( F-3) tel. 6718 1327 Exhibition Hall Arsenāls: Torņa 1, (F-2) tel. 6721 3695 Great Guild Hall: Amatu 6 (G-2) tel.6721 3798 Latvian National Opera: Aspazijas bulvāris 3 (H-2), tel. 6707 3777 Museum of Photography: Mārstaļu 8 Museum of the History of Riga and Navigation: Palasta 4 (B-3), tel.6721 1358 Riga Cathedral: Doma square (F-2), tel. 6722 7573 Small Guild Hall: Amatu 3/5 (G-2) tel. 6722 3772

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RigaNOW! Platinum Platter Awards 2009 Everyone deserves acknowledgement for excellent accomplishments. Here at RigaNOW! We have once again put our heads together to reflect back upon last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s achievements. So that you can enjoy the best of Latvia, hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s our selection of who truly deserves to be served up on a Platinum Platter.

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Best Gallery Riga Art Space Riga’s cultural scene got richer in 2008 after the unveiling of this spacious contemporary art space, which has brought in intriguing and clever art projects of global standards.

Step back a century or three in time by descending into this ancient cellar. This lively spot has authentic medieval food, music, candlelight and waiters to take you back to when Riga first began.

Best Rustic Dining Rozengra¯ls Best Original Dining Hospitalis

Best New Dining Concerto A delightful addition to Riga’s dining scene, with a cozy yet sophisticated atmosphere and a bargain wine list. The menu is an assortment of unique dishes created by the chef and served with pizzazz. Your taste-buds will tingle with gratitude.

Last summer, three doctors with a taste for the unusual opened this extraordinary hospital-themed restaurant decorated with a fantastic collection of dated medical equipment gathering dust in the basements of the city’s hospitals. To spice up your dinner go for the “crazy menu” where you’re bound in a straight-jacket and fed by one of the sexy nurse-waitresses.

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A light and unobtrusive interior functions as an ambient background for a rich symphony of food, emphasizing locally produced seasonal ingredients. Unsurprisingly, this harmonious restaurant is co-owned by local celebrity Andrejs Žagars, director of the Latvian National Opera.

Best Gourmet Dining Symposium

Best Seafood Dining Gastronome No fusion cooking here; most of the meals are simply grilled dishes that bring out the natural crustacean or fishy flavors. All ingredients are really fresh, evocative of the ocean – zesty and melt-in-the-mouth.

Best Café Brown Sugar

From the street you’d never imagine that this little gem of a cake shop is also the entrance to a spacious yet cozy, ye-olde-worldly atmosphere upstairs. The views of Esplanâde Park and some busy city action are ideal entertainment for perky eyes as you sip your afternoon tea or coffee while indulging in home-baked cakes.

Best Italian Dining Paparazzi

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Colorful Italian dishes stand out from a slick, black-andwhite interior. Don’t be shy – go crazy and try something new from their creatively Italian menu. Whatever you put in your mouth will prove the chef’s mastery.

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This young chef in his mid-twenties does a fantastic job at the Mediterranean restaurant Amphora. What makes him the best man in the kitchen is his attention to detail, original combinations, the freshest ingredients, and new ideas.

Best Bar Champagne&Wine Bar

Best Chef Roberts Lismanis

This comfortable cellar has steadily gained in popularity among locals and foreigners alike and is best, in our opinion, for sampling divine wines from the carefully crafted menu. Ask the sommelier to share his expertise with you.

Best Oriental Dining Indian Raja

Best food Shopping Stockmann

For many years now, Stockmann has successfully maintained high standards of service. Nowhere else in Riga will you find such a broad assortment of quality products, both local and foreign.

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This expat favorite offers the most authentic Indian and Thai food in town, as it is owned by Sunny Motwany, a man who hails from the exotic land of the Taj Mahal. The dĂŠcor is sumptuous, the belly-dancers voluptuous.

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Best Nightclub Studio 69 Like a phoenix from the ashes, Studio 69 recently opened its doors after reconstruction and surprised everyone with its newly splendorous interior and impressive late-night parties. The locals say – if you haven’t been there, you haven’t been anywhere.

Just round the corner from Dome Square, in the heart of the Old Town, is a venue with a super-funky interior for music lovers and anyone who likes to boogie. A good place to kick off your clubbing night, there’s a myriad of classic, exotic and potent cocktails available.

Best Chill-Out Venue Radiobars (Radio Bar)

Best Fashion Boutique Madam Bonbon Visually more like an Art Nouveau apartment rather than a fashion store, the sales process resembles a private fitting – once a client arrives the entrance of the shop is locked and the focus shifts to trying on every shoe in your size, from flat sandals to the highest stilettos, while enjoying a cup of coffee or a glass of champagne.

Best Jewelry Shopping Dimax

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The kind of unique boutique you’d normally see in Milan or Geneva, this lovely little store is located in the heart of the Old Town, catering to lovers of sophisticated and luxury timepieces and very best of jewelry.

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Best New Hotel Mama

u After 20 years of dreaming, Misis Kikste opened this wonderfully cozy boutique hotel together with her daughters. Now, with just seven beautifully designed rooms, they are chanting that is the place for people who want inspiration to come from happy dreams.

Best Spa Barbor SPA

ue With its pleasant atmosphere, luxury treatments and relaxation, this little retreat offers friendly, cheerful and caring service, ideal for escaping everyday stress. Procedures make use of top-quality products for reasonable prices. And all in central Riga.

Best Town for Exploring CeÂŻsis

For those curious enough to venture further afield than the Latvian capital, the fortress town of CĂ§sis is a medieval gem in the beautiful heart of Vidzeme, full of historic charm and natural beauty. Adventurous warlocks can slip back a few centuries by heading to the ruins of the castle, picking up an old-fashioned lantern and guiding themselves through the massive complex by candlelight. Then try out some archery and mint your very own medieval coin.

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If you want to feel more like James Bond, then this is the casino for you.

ELEGANT GAMING For those who visit the Royal Casino SPA & Hotel Resort – the biggest and most magnificent entertainment complex in Latvia – but don’t feel like dancing or dining, there are plenty of possibilities for other things to do. This five-floor building houses not only a hotel, a fitness center, a spa salon, restaurants, a café and two nightclubs. There’s also a casino and poker club. In the elite Royal Casino are 16 tables for poker, Blackjack and roulette, the feeling of elegance augmented by crystal chandeliers, leather sofas and an elite atmosphere. For the most respectable clients there is a separate floor – the VIP Casino. The pleasant atmosphere, a saucy interior, the most beautiful girls as attendants and pleasantly upbeat music create a special refined style that can be met only at Royal Casino. The Poker Club is located on the fifth floor, offering 15 tables for games such as Texas, Omaha and Crazy Pineapple poker. The venue is a meeting place for genuine fans of poker, where they can participate in tournaments, play on tables for cash, or even rent a table and relax behind the game in their own company. Poker tournaments are organized every day from 18:00. The Royal Casino SPA & Hotel Resort entertainment complex is dedicated first of all to successful people who appreciate a healthy way of life and quality of service. It is easy to see that for this reason everything inside the complex is done in the best possible way, from the personnel and the friendly service to the tables and the equipment. 16

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Royal Casino Tçrbatas 73, tel. 6750 6030 Open daily, 00.00–24.00

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Groundbreaking and trendsetting are words that have been used to describe Riga’s super-entertainment complex the Royal Casino SPA and Hotel Resort, located in central Riga at Terbatas 73. Their nightclub Studio 69 has established a national and international reputation as Latvia’s premier nighttime hotspot. But there are plenty of other entertaining venues here too, which we urge you to experience.

Studio 69 Tçrbatas 73, tel. 6750 6030 Open Fri-Sat, 22.00–06.00

“Le Bouquet” for real gourmands Riga’s dining scene just became richer. The uniqueness of the exclusive new restaurant Le Bouquet, located in the Royal Casino SPA and Hotel Resort entertainment complex, lies in the fact that all of the dishes’ ingredients are delivered fresh from Paris twice a week, on Mondays and Thursdays, on a special flight carrying fresh fish, oysters and other exclusive items. Arturs Turmanis is the Head Chef at Le Bouquet, a wellknown artist in the kitchen who recently served the President of Latvia Valdis Zatlers when he had an important meeting at the Benjamin House. Asked what makes dishes so unique at Le Bouquet, the maestro said enthusiastically that they use no frozen products at all. He showed us a raw sole fish, saying that in Riga it is possible to find this fish on sale, but at a cost of around 22 lats for 1 kg – and only frozen. When it thaws, its structure varies and the taste is clearly very different. Every dish at Le Bouquet can be considered a masterpiece in culinary art. For that reason you won’t find a traditional business lunch here. The chef assured us that this is a restaurant where you can really enjoy a meal, where it is not possible to experience it in a rush. Even the atmosphere of the restaurant says – be calm, don’t hurry. Everyone visiting Le Bouquet can be reassured that their expectations will be met at the highest level. Arturs Turmanis said that the best compliment is to hear his guests tell him they’ve never eaten such a delicious meal before in their lives! There are just nine tables at the restaurant, so the place is quite limited. But it is obvious that the focus is on quality not quantity. Every visitor is pampered, starting from the greeting at the entrance to the selection of music and the interior, which is extremely cozy and sophisticated at the same time, decorated in beige and chocolate shades. Once you enter the restaurant your attention is caught by the wooden shelves holding numerous wine bottles that cover the wall on the left-hand side. Special charm is given by the romantic chandelier lightning. Every object you see around you has been specially selected with great care. We were not surprised to hear some of the departing guests say to the staff «We don’t want to leave you!» This proves that Le Bouquet really manages to surprise the true gourmets of Riga.

promotion

Party all the time! Studio 69 Nightclub Studio 69 has long been regarded as Riga’s best hidden secret. With its own unique feel, decor and musical style, Studio 69 is a 21st century adult playground, striving to entertain and excite all the guests who choose to party here each weekend. With a musical repertoire combining commercially popular hits, Studio 69 constantly struggles to do the undoable, creating not only a world-class party atmosphere but also an internationally recognized entertainment venue. Attentive service will delight you from the first minutes inside the club until you leave. All visitors are met at the door by two cashiers elegantly dressed in long evening gowns. But don’t waste your time – head straight to the main dancefloor to get a slice of the action. You’ll find a diverse party crowd here, many of them dolled up blondes and pretty brunettes. There’s a broad dancefloor encircled by an elevated seating area where you can reserve tables of different sizes for up to 10 people. On the second floor there are tables for bigger groups of up to 20 people. Reserving a table for two costs around €71, but the fee is credited towards the club’s fancy food and beverage menu. You won’t be sitting down for long, however, as two sexy podium dancers do their utmost to energetically heat up the atmosphere in the vibes of the music. Apart from local DJs, the musical entertainment has often included internationally well-known guests and the management of the club promise to keep this tradition going. Despite the fact that Studio 69 is packed full of lithe party animals doesn’t mean endless heaving by the bar to get a drink – you’ll be served at the spacious bar pretty quickly. The bar, incidentally, has one of the best selections of drinks in town, starting from of premium label beers, award-winning wines and a wide selection of champagnes and cognacs. Nevertheless, cocktails are available all night long. Just tell your wishes to the bartender and he will make your dreams come true. If you are looking for a supremely popular, customer-friendly club in Riga, then look no further than Studio 69.

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Experience of restaurant desiderata! Restaurant Desiderata

Desiderata has created a bright and beautiful space and We invite You to enjoy the dinner with live music and wonderful meal.

more information you can find at www.bestriga.com

Royal Square Hotel & Suites 3a Kalku street, Riga, LV-1050 www.royalsquare.lv RN#64.indd 18

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Royal Package Inclusive of: • Accommodation for two nights in double room for special price • Welcome drink upon arrival • Early check-in • Late check-out • Full breakfast • Daily use of sauna and Jacuzzi • Round –trip Airport transfers • All taxes This offer is valid from till Jun 24th, 2009, and upon availability. All you have to do is book your stay at our Hotel and we will take care about the rest.

Enjoy the exciting spring in the heart of Riga with

Get a true sense of royal spring!

Royal Square Hotel & Suites Starting from EUR 135.00/per night Two nights – only EUR 270.00

Package Code (AD 555)

For the bookings contact our Reservation Team Today: Tel: +371 67214 555, Fax: +371 67214777, e-mail: hotel@royalsquare.lv

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Guided tour wooden riga

By Philip Birzulis

FROM THE TREES TO THE STREETS The wooden architectural heritage of Riga is one of the city’s charms and a living guide to its past. All things considered, wood has a tremendously important role in the culture of Latvia. Many Latvian surnames come from words for trees, a reflection of the importance of the forest in folklore. Timber has been a lucrative trading item since the Middle Ages, and today it is still the country’s largest export item. The natural material is an important element of urban Riga as well. The city has one of the finest collections of wooden buildings anywhere in Europe – a testament to the skills of craftsmen from earlier generations whose work has survived so many upheavals.

TINDERBOX

The story of what architectural materials have been used in Riga down the years tells a lot about the place. Before the arrival of German crusaders in the 11th century, Riga was the site of a Livonian fishing village, which was of course made of wood. However, the new arrivals built in stone, and this was used to cement class differences. There are reports from as early as the 15th century of town authorities demolishing “illegal” wooden structures put up outside the city walls by traders and artisans operating outside the strict medieval merchant codes. 20

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Naturally, fires and wood go together, and between 1559 and 1772 Riga’s suburbs went up in smoke no less than ten times, due to both natural and man-made causes. But on every occasion the place was rebuilt in a new fashion. Following the devastation of the Great Northern War of the early 18th century, a large building boom entrenched wood as a perfectly respectable building material. This had more to do with economics than aesthetics. Whereas the old parts of Western European cities such as Edinburgh

went up in the form of multi-storey houses to accommodate bulging populations, the unsure foundations in Old Riga meant that this was impossible. So instead the town expanded beyond its old boundaries. Elsewhere in Europe, wood was a luxury item – for example, it is estimated that in Spain around the time of the Napoleonic Wars a basketful of firewood cost almost as much as the food that went into cooking a meal on it. But the large quantities of timber available in Latvia meant that this was not a

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GUIDED tour wooden riga

factor, and wooden buildings became characteristic not just of Riga, but in the other countries around the Baltic as well. Then, the final great blaze in 1812 cleared the way for the pattern of the city’s development until today. Following Napoleon’s invasion of Russia, the western parts of the Czarist Empire were in a state of panic. A mistaken sighting of approaching Prussian troops allied to the French conqueror led

to the torching of wide sections of the right bank of the Daugava as a defensive measure. As was typical of the political mindset of the time, the resulting vacuum was filled by instructions from the center. Classicalstyle building plans were mandated for all Russian cities, and the post-war building boom saw hundreds of wooden structures in this form springing up in Riga. There are not many examples of these houses left, but as the 19th century progressed other wooden houses were built for both residential and commercial purposes. The most recent examples seen today are from the early 20th century, because modern

building codes effectively banned wooden construction from the late 1930s. However, this gap of half a century is being filled today, as some wealthy residents are choosing to build their new residences from wood. And although some might find it tacky, the Lido entertainment complex on Krastu Street (D-4) is one of the largest wooden structures in Europe, and could be considered as a continuation of an ancient tradition.

KNOCK ON WOOD

Obviously, wood is not as resistant as stone or brick to the ravages of time, so there has been a large turnover in the stock of wooden houses over the years. However, a considerable part of the heritage from both the 18th and 19th centuries has been preserved and is still there to enjoy. What is more, in spite of the costs, many wooden structures have been lovingly restored over the past few years and are colorful, gentle assets again after years of neglect. There are numerous examples scattered throughout the city. The suburb of Âgenskalns (A-4), just over the Akmens (Stone) Bridge on the Pârdaugava side of

the river, is a gallery of 19th century wooden summer houses converted to make them highly sought-after residences today. The leafy streets and parks of this area make for a great day trip. Less well preserved, but interesting as a contrast, is the Maskavas Forštate (Moscow Suburb) (D-3) to the east of the railway tracks. Take tram no. 7 for a whistle-stop tour that may not be pretty but gives a good insight into how this wooden, working class area has retained its character for a century or more. There are plenty of examples in the center, too. One of the most amazing examples of wooden architecture (even though it may not look like wood at first glance), is the Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Church (C-2) on the corner of Brîvîbas and Lâèplçša streets. The only large structure in the city with vertically placed squared-timbers, it has been standing firm since 1820. Another impressive example is the imposing 17th century wooden neoclassical Lutheran Jesus Church (Jçzusbaznîca), at Elijas 18 (C-3). It’s located in the aforementioned Moscow Suburb district, just south of the Old Town beyond the train station. Jçzusbaznîca and Elijas Streets contain several old wooden buildings; however the church dwarfs them all, being the largest wooden building in the Baltic States. There are also impressive rows of wooden residential houses along Dzirnavu and Stabu streets. One of the finest restoration jobs on a wooden structure done in recent years is the house at Stabu 17 (C-2), the home of the Latvian student fraternity Selonija. There are plenty of other interesting examples scattered all over the place. Whether the material is wood, stone or brick, Riga’s a city that rewards a slow stroll with your eyes open by revealing a cityscape of surprising diversity and beauty.

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2009

2009.03.30. 10:26:37

Riga’s center & old town 11. Novembra krastmala B-3; E-2...F,G-4 13. janvāra iela B,C-3; H-4 Abrenes iela C-3 Ādmiņu iela D-3 Akadēmijas laukums C-3 Akas iela C-2 Aklā iela E-2 Akmeņu iela B-3,4 Alauksta iela D-2 Alberta iela B-2 Alberta laukums H-4 Aldaru iela F-2 Aleksandra Čaka iela C-2,3…D-2 Aleksandra Grīna bulvāris A-3 Aleksandra Puškina iela, see Puškina iela Alfrēda Kalniņa iela C-3 Alksnāja iela G,H-4

RN#64.indd 22

Alojas iela C-1 Alunāna iela, see Jura Alunāna iela Amatu iela G-2 Andreja Pumpura iela B-2 Anglikāņu iela E-2 Antonijas iela B-2 Arhitektu iela H-2 Aristida Briāna iela C-1,2 Arsenāla iela F-2 Artilērijas iela D-2 Asara iela, see Jāņa Asara iela Aspāzijas bulvāris B-3; H-2...H-3 Ata Kronvalda bulvāris, see Kronvalda bulvāris Atgriežu iela F-2 Audēju iela B-3; H-3 Augšiela D-2 Augusta Deglava iela D-2 Ausekļa iela B-2 Avotu iela C-3…D-2 Āzenes iela A-3 Balasta dambis A-1…A-3

Baložu iela A-3 Balvu iela D-4 Bāriņu iela A-4 Barona iela, see Krišjāņa Barona iela Basteja bulvāris B-2,3; F-1...G-2 Baznīcas iela C-2 Bezdelīgu iela A-3 Bieķensalas iela B-4 Birznieka-Upīša iela, see Ernesta Birznieka-Upīša iela Bīskapa gāte E-2...F-3 Blaumaņa iela C-2 Briāna iela, see Aristida Briāna iela Brieža iela, see Pulkveža Brieža iela Brīvības bulvāris H-1...H-2 Brīvības iela C-2…D-1 Brīvzemnieka iela, see Friča Brīvzemnieka iela Bruņinieku iela C-2…D-3 Buru iela B-4

Centrāltirgus iela B-3; H-4 Cēsu iela D-1 Citadeles iela B-2; E-1 Čaka iela, see Aleksandra Čaka iela Dainas iela C,D-2 Daugavas gāte E-2 Daugavgrīvas iela A-1…A-3 Daugavpils iela D-3 Deglava iela, see Augusta Deglava iela Doma laukums B-3; F-2 Dzirnavu iela B-2…C-3 Eduarda Smiļģa iela A3…A-4 Eksporta iela B-1…B-2; E-1 Elijas iela C-3 Elizabetes iela B-2…C-3 Emiļa Melngaiļa iela B,C-2 Ērgļu iela D-1,2…D-2 Ernesta Birznieka-Upīša iela C-3 Ernestīnes iela A-3 Ēveles iela C-1

Friča Brīvzemnieka iela A-4 Gaiziņa iela C-3 Ganību dambis B-1 Ganu iela B-2 Garlība Merķeļa iela, see Merķeļa iela Gleznotāju iela G-3...H-2 Gogoļa iela C-3 Grebenščikova iela C,D-4 Grēcinieku iela B-3; F-4...G-3 Grīna bulvāris, see Aleksandra Grīna bulvāris Grostonas iela C-1 Ģertrūdes iela C-2…C,D-3 Hanzas iela B-2…C-2 Herdera laukums F-3 Hospitāļu iela C-1 Ieriķu iela D-1 Indrānu iela D-1 Inženieru iela H-2 Ivana Turgeņeva iela, see Turgeņeva iela Jāņa Asara iela D-2 Jāņa iela G-3

Jāņa sēta G-3 Jauniela F-3 Jēkaba iela B-2,3; F-1...F-2 Jēkaba laukums F-1 Jēkabpils iela C-3 Jelgavas iela A,B-4…B-4 Jersikas iela D-3,4 Jeruzalemes iela B-2 Jēzusbaznīcas iela C-3 Johana Gotfrīda Herdera laukums, see Herdera laukums Jura Alunāna iela B-2 Kalēju iela B-3; G-3...G-4 Kalna iela D-3 K alnciema iela A-3 Kalniņa iela, see Alfrēda Kalniņa iela Kalpaka bulvāris, see Oskara Kalpaka bulvāris Kalupes iela C,D-3 Kaļķu iela B-3; F-3...G-2 Katoļu iela C-3 Katrīnas dambis B-1 Katrīnas iela B-1

Klijānu iela D-1 K lostera iela F-2 Klusā iela D-1 Kojusalas iela D-4 Krāmu iela F-3 Krāslavas iela C-3 Krāsotāju iela D-2 Krasta iela B-3…D-4 Krišjāņa Barona iela B,C3…D-1; H-3 Krišjāņa Valdemāra iela A3…C-1; E-1...F,G-1 Kronvalda bulvāris B-2; F-1 Kuģu iela B-3 K ungu iela B-3; G-3...G-4 K urbada iela C-3 Ķēniņu iela G-2 Ķīpsalas iela A-2 Laboratorijas iela D-2 Lāčplēša iela C-2…C-3 Laipu iela G-3 Lapu iela A-4 Latviešu strēlnieku laukums F-3,4

2009.03.30. 10:26:46

Lauku iela D-2 Lauvas iela D-3 Lazdonas iela C,D-3 Lenču iela B-2 Lielgabalu iela C-2 Lienes iela D-2…D-3 Liepājas iela A-4 Līksnas iela D-3 Līvu laukums G-2 Lomonosova iela D-4 Ludzas iela D-3 Lugažu iela B-1 Maisa iela F-3 Maiznīcas iela C-2 Mālpils iela C-1 Marijas iela C-3 Mārstaļu iela G-3,4...G-4 Martas iela C-2 Mārupes iela A-4 Maskavas iela B,C-3…D-4 Matīsa iela C-2…D-3 Matrožu iela A-2 Mazā Jaunavu iela G-3 Mazā Jauniela F-3

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Mazā Kalna iela D-3 Mazā Krasta iela C-3…D-4 Mazā Miesnieku iela F-2 Mazā Monētu iela G-3 Mazā Muzeja iela F-2 Mazā Nometņu iela A-4 Mazā Peitavas iela G,H-4 Mazā Pils iela F-2 Mazā Skolas iela F-3 Mazā Smilšu iela G-2 Mazā Trokšņu iela F-2 Mazā Vaļņu iela H-3 Mednieku iela B-2 Meistaru iela G-2 Melngaiļa iela, see Emiļa Melngaiļa iela Mēness iela C,D-1 Merķeļa iela C-3; H-1 Miera iela C-1,2…D-1 Miesnieku iela E,F-2 Mihaila Lomonosova iela, see Lomonosova iela Miķeļa iela B-2 Minsterejas iela G-4

Mucenieku iela G,H-3 Muitas iela B-2; E-1...E,F-1 Mūku iela F-2 Mūkusalas iela B-4 Mūrnieku iela D-2 Nēģu iela B-3 Nikolaja Gogoļa iela, see Gogoļa iela Noliktavas iela E,F-1...F-1 Nometņu iela A-3 Ogļu iela A-2 Ojāra Vācieša iela A-4 Oskara Kalpaka bulvāris B-2; H-1 Palasta iela F-3 Palīdzības iela C-1,2 Pasta iela G-4 Peitavas iela G-4 Peldu iela G-3...G-4 Pērnavas iela D-2…D-3 Pērses iela C-2,3 Pēterbaznīcas iela G-3 Pētersalas iela B-1 Pils iela B-3; F-2

Pils laukums E-1 Pļavas iela D-2,3 Poļu gāte E-2 Prāgas iela B-3…C-3; H-4 Pulkveža Brieža iela B-1,2 Pumpura iela, see Andreja Pumpura iela Pūpolu iela B,C-3 Puškina iela C-3 Radio iela B,C-3; H-3 Raiņa bulvāris B-2,3; G-1... H-2 Raņķa dambis A-3 Rātslaukums B-3; F,G-3 Reimersa iela G,H-1 Republikas laukums E-1 Rīdzenes iela H-3...H-3,4 Riepnieku iela C-3 Rietumu iela A-2,3 Riharda Vāgnera iela G,H-3 Rozena iela F-3 Rūdolfa Blaumaņa iela, see Blaumaņa iela Rūpniecības iela B-1…B-2

Sadovņikova iela C-3 Sakaru iela B-2 Satekles iela C-3 Senču iela D-1 Skanstes iela B-2…C-1 Skārņu iela G-3 Skolas iela C-2 Slokas iela A-3 Smilšu iela B-3; F,G-2 Smiļģa iela, see Eduarda Smiļģa iela Sparģeļu iela D-2 Spīķeru iela C-3 Sporta iela C-2 Stabu iela C-2…D-3 Stacijas laukums C-3 Stadiona iela D-2 Staraja Rusas iela A,B-3 Strēlnieku iela B-2 Strēlnieku laukums, see Latviešu strēlnieku laukums Svaru iela F,G-3 Šarlotes iela C-2 Šķūņu iela F,G-2,3

Tallinas iela C-1,2…D-2 Talsu iela A-4 Teātra iela H-3 Tērbatas iela C-2…C,D-2; H-1 Terēzes iela D-2 Timoteja iela C-3 Tirgoņu iela F-3 Toma iela D-4 Tomsona iela C-1 Torņa iela B-2; F-1...G-2 Torņakalna iela A-4 Trijādības iela A-3 Trokšņu iela F-2 Turgeņeva iela C-3 Ūdensvada iela F-4 Upes iela C,D-1 Uzvaras bulvāris A,B-3…A-4 Vācieša iela, see Ojāra Vācieša iela Vāgnera iela, see Riharda Vāgnera iela Vagonu iela D-3 Valdemāra iela, see Krišjāņa Valdemāra iela

Valguma iela A-3…B-3 Valkas iela B-2 Valmieras iela D-3 Vaļņu iela B-3; G-2...H-3 Vārnu iela D-2 Vecpilsētas iela G-3...H-4 Veru iela B-2 Vesetas iela C-1…C-1,2 Vidus iela B-2 Vienības gatve A,B-4 Vietalvas iela D-3 Vīlandes iela B-2 Viļānu iela D-3 Vingrotāju iela B-2 Visvalža iela C-3 Zaķu iela D-2,3 Zaķusalas krastmala B,C4…C-4 Zaļā iela B-2 Zirgu iela F,G-2...G-2 Zirņu iela C-1 Zvaigžņu iela D-2 Zvejnieku iela A-2

2009.03.30. 10:26:55

dining guide

Dining guide With Riga’s flourishing restaurant trade there are plenty of places to choose from. Starting with a quick bite to a more traditional sit-down dining experience, most foreign cuisines have made their mark.

Armenian

Aragats A Caucasian cuisine offering Armenian and Georgian dishes. Shashlik, fish dishes and vegetarian meals are available. Miera 15, C-1, Tel: 6737 3445, Tue-Sun. 13.00-22.00, Mon. closed

Belgian

Bon VivanT A place of glowing mahogany-stained solid oak, engraved bar stools, beveled mirrors, vintage beer posters and etched glass. The beer list gives an overview of the unique and wonderful portfolio of Belgian beers, and an opportunity to discover the beer paradise that is Belgium. Mārstaļu 8, G-3, Tel: 67226585, Mon.-Thr. 11.00–01.00, Fri.-Sat. 13.00–last customer.

Chinese

Soho A discreet and cozy little restaurant close to the Art Nouveau district. Soho’s Beijing-born chef, Mateo, serves up numerous tasty and bountiful dishes from his industrious, fiery wok. Elizabetes 6, B-2, Tel: 6724 0250, Open daily: 12.00-23.00

French

Province BraSserie This wine bar is a piece of sunny French Province in the heart of Old Town. Here you can enjoy a glass of vintage wine with delicious fresh croissants, baguettes and cheeses. Kaļķu iela 2, G-2, Tel: 6722 2566, Open daily: 9.00-23.00.

Indian

Indian Raja This is definitely an ex-pat favorite because of the authenticity for tasty Indian and Thai cuisine. One of the most outstanding restaurants in Riga. Vecpilsētas 3, H-4, Tel: 6722 1617, Sun.-Thr: 12.00-23.00, Fri-Sat. 12.00-23.00.

Italian

Da Sergio It’s clear that this place is Italian, even if you’ve never been there. Tērbatas, 65 (entrance from Matīsa), C-2, Tel: 6731 2777, Open daily: 11.0023.00. Monterosso Italian cuisine in a pleasantly elegant setting, with a cappuccino bar ideal for quick lunches. The menu has all the Mediterranean goodies like pastas, pizzas and meat and fish dishes. Large thin crust pizzas are the best bargain. Vaļnu 9, G-2, Tel: 6750 7170, Open: 12.00-24.00. Paparazzi An easy-to-navigate menu has plenty of delectable dishes to choose from. All of them are prepared by their Italian chef – suprimo! Antonijas 12, C-2, Tel: 6750 5710 Open daily: 12.00-23.00. PASTARELLIA This cosy rustic café with its own mini pasta factory is a welcome addition to the Pārdaugava area, across the river from the Old Town. Marupes iela 3, Āgenskalns, A-4. Tel: 6742 0372. Open daily 10:00-22:00. Trattoria del Popolo Riga’s new Italian venue serves Italian food of above average quality at down to earth prices. We haven’t seen prices like these in Riga for several years – main courses for €4-7, and des-

serts for only €2.8! Jāņa 6/8 (G-3), Tel. 6735 0559, Open daily: 11.00-23.00

Japanese

Sumo Japanese dishes such as sushi, sashimi, tempura, yakitori. This place can get a little pricey if you start to mix and match dishes. Kungu 8, G-4, Tel: 6750 32 44, Open daily: 12.00-24.00.

Jewish

Shalom Delicious Jewish cuisine, but not a kosher restaurant. A.Briana 10, Tel: 67385638, Open daily: 12.00-22.00.

Korean

Soraksans Authentic K orean chefs make the dishes extra pleasing here. A banquet room is available for private functions. Miesnieku 12, F-2, Tel:722 9068, Open daily: 12.00-23.00.

Latvian

Alus sēta (Beer Garden) Step back in time in this very popular Latvian themed self-service restaurant. We recommend the ribs and cabbage stew, or try the pork and potatoes. We promise you won’t be hungry for the next few days! Tirgoņu 6, F-3, Tel: 6722 2431, Open daily: 11.00-23.00. Lido Atpūtas Centrs (Lido Recreation Center) – Welcome to Meat World! This is a must for all visitors to Riga, and a paradise for kids. The largest timber corner-jointed building in Europe offers a giant buffet with Latvian meals, as well as some international and health dishes. There is also a beer cellar, where you can try their special home-brewed honey beer. Krasta 46, D-4, Tel: 6750 4420, Beer cellar: 12.00-24.00, Bistro: 10.00-23.00, Express restaurant: 12.00-23.00. Staburags Here you can see what Latvia really is about, with gigantic portions of ribs, pork, potatoes and beer in liter mugs, accompanied by merry folk music. An unforgettable experience! Čaka 55, C-2, Tel: 6729 9787, Open daily: 12.00-24.00

2009.03.30. 10:27:16

dining guide MediterranEan

Amphora A spacious restaurant with three separate halls in crispy white, sea-blue and terracotta orange is located in the quiet Art Nouveau district in a cozy cellar. This high quality, yet relaxed restaurant, offers healthy traditional Mediterranean dishes with a European twist as well as a large wine list. Elizabetes 10b, B-2, Tel: 6733 8191, Mon.-Fri. 12.00-23.00, Sat.14.00-23.00

Medieval

RozengrĀls A true one-of-a-kind place that must be seen to be believed. The theme here is the dark ages, and dark it is with hundreds of candles lighting the restaurant. All the hired help are nicely dressed to fit the part and the food is of the time as well, but the plumbing is surely modern with an authentic twist. Rozena 1, F-3, Tel: 6722 0356, Open daily: 12.00-24.00.

Pizza

IL Patio Though we couldn’t find the patio, we did find pizzas baked in a wood-fire oven, delicious pastas and friendly service. This European-style chain of pizzerias also offers a plentiful all-you-can-eat salad bar. Kaļķu 6, G-3, Tel: 6722 0755, Open daily: 12.00-24.00. Paparazzi pizza First things first, don’t confuse this Paparazzi with the Paparazzi restaurant located next door. This one serves fantastic crunchy pizzas made on the open fire. Antonijas 12, C-2, Tel: 6750 5710, Open daily: 12.00-23.00. pomodoro The owners have added a real Italian flavor to the place, especially regarding the menu and interior. Whilst enjoying the Italian music, you can try the authentic food including pizzas, salads, pastas and soups, with a selection of Italian wines and drinks including herbal Grappa or Nastro Azurro beer. The prices for extras are a bit cheeky. Vecpilsētas 8a, G-3, Tel: 67211044, Open daily: 11.30-23.00.

SKONTO Zivju restorāns When people think of a seafood restaurant in Riga, they usually think of Skonto Zivju Restorāns. This upmarket restaurant serves a complete menu of submarine dishes. You can choose your lobster or trout straight from the aquarium. Vāgnera 4, G-3, Tel: 6721 6713, Open daily: 12.00-24.00.

Scandinavian

Columbine Though Columbine restaurant is located in a Swedish-owned hotel, the food is mostly international. A tasteful, warm decor matches a wonderful menu. Aspazijas bulv. 36/38 (in Hotel Metropole), H-3, Tel: 6722 5411, Open daily: 12.00-23.00

Spanish

El Primero This Spanish restaurant with its minimal interior, heavy black oak chairs, candlelight and posters of bullfighters is a good place to enjoy some of your Spanish favorites. Smilšu 6, F-2, Tel: 6732 3664, Mon.-Fri. 11.00-23.00, Sat. 11.00-24.00, Sun. 12.00-23.00.

Steakhouses

Zilā Govs The Blue Cow is a new steak restaurant, located on one side of Riga’s most popular Old Town squares, Līvu laukums, and set in a charming old building with a delightful interior. Besides steaks

and fish, you’ll find a special organic food section on the menu. Meistaru 21, G-2, Tel. 6722 3307; Open daily: 11:00-24:00. Steiku Haoss (Steak Chaos) Some of the best (and priciest) steaks in town! This successful local chain restaurant has a truly western interior with horse saddles for bar stools. Meistaru 25, G-2, Tel: 6722 2419, Open: 11.00-01.00, Audēju 2, G-3, Tel: 6722 5699, Mon.-Fri. 9.00-1.00, Sat.-Sun. 12.00-1.00. steak house DOME Located just off of Riga’s main Old Town square, Doma laukums, this is what could be considered one of Riga’s true international steak houses, offering juicy steaks and traditional European fare. Smilšu 2, F-2, Tel: 6732 00 37, Open daily: 11.30-23.00.

International

Concerto One of the newest establishments on Riga’s dining scene, this elegant restaurant is located slightly away from the center towards Arena Riga, the city’s premier sports and concert venue. Attentive service, tasty food and a suave atmosphere, and the menu is an assortment of truly unique dishes. Kr. Valdemara 77, C-2, Tel. 6737 1922; Open: Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00 Fabrikas RestorĀns (Factory Restaurant) – Fabrikas Restorāns is located across the river Daugava, in the Kīpsala

Russian

Arbat Named after a famous Moscow promenade street, this restaurant offers traditional Russian cuisine and genuine hospitality. R.Vāgnera 3, G-3, Tel: 67214057, Open daily: 12.00–24.00. SlĀvu Restorāns This chain restaurant promises lavish grand scale Russian cuisine, so certainly try such specialties like home made pickles, marinades, confectionary and the Tsar’s fish soup – of course with a shot of crystal clear vodka! Blaumaņa 9, C-2, Tel: 6728 3974. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

Seafood

Gastronome Here’s a store of fine gourmet foods and delicacies from all over the world. Gastronome also features a seafood restaurant with open grill-kitchen and their own smokehouse. Its chefs offer delicate smoked fish, various seafood dishes and other splendid culinary meals. In the Reval hotel Latvija complex, Brīvības iela 31, C-2, Tel: 6777 2356, Open daily: 11.00–23.00.

Check out more restaurants at www.bestriga.com

! RN#64.indd 25

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dining guide der a glass pyramid, the restaurant offers excellent international cuisine and fine wines. Open daily 07.00-01.00, terrace: 10.00-24.00. Reimersa 1 (in Reval Hotel Rīdzene), H-1, tel. 6732 4433. Symposium This prestigious and subtly decorated restaurant, reincarnated by one of Riga’s famous restaurateurs, serves original dishes both from the new and old Symposium menu. Mediterranean cuisine with Italian and French influences, using the freshest organic ingredients. Citadeles 12, Tel: 6787 8042. Open daily: 12.00– 23.00. VanILLe One of the most elegant restaurants in a coffeeand-creme palette with dim candlelight. The fusion-style menu unites European and Japanese cuisine, prepared by the highly-skilled eastern chefs. Vaļņu 26, H-3, Tel: 6722 1435, Open daily: 12.00 – 24.00.

Gourmet

Gastronome neighborhood. The unique restored brick and wooden building here give the area a laid-back charm. The menu is quite diverse and at lunch it can get packed. Balasta dambis 70, A-2, Tel: 6787 3804, Open daily: 11.00-24.00. Hospitālis Extraordinary hospital-themed restaurant decorated with a collection of medical equipment create a surreal atmosphere. To spice up your dinner go for the “crazy menu” where you’re bound in a straight-jacket and fed by one of the sexy nurse-waitresses. Stabu 14, C-2, Tel. 6731 3530, Open daily 11.00-23.00. Gutenbergs Hotel Gutenbergs has done a fine job of offering two unique places to dine. On the bottom floor you have a formal dining room, and on the roof terrace in the warmer months you have a more casual seating arrangement, with the best views of Riga’s rooftops. Doma laukums 1 (in Hotel Gutenbergs), F-2, Tel: 6781 4090, Open daily: 12.00-23.00. Panorama Impress your clients with a spectacular view of Old Riga’s panorama at this restaurant from across the Daugava River. For a romantic evening, escort your date to the north end of the restaurant for a candle-lit dinner. Radisson SAS Daugava, Kugu iela 24, B-3, Tel: 6706 1111, Open daily: 6.3023.00. PIRAMĪDA Those seeking an intimate and elegant ambience and outstanding service will discover culinary treasure in the Piramīda restaurant. Situated un-

Bellevue Enjoy elegant dining over the river, with a panoramic view of Riga. The Bellevue is located on the 11th floor and offers gourmet cuisine served with style in a pleasant atmosphere. A modern design, coupled with dim lights and soft music. Slokas 1 (in Maritim Park Hotel), B-3, Tel: 6706 9000, Open daily: 13.00-23.00. Bergs RESTAURANT Stylishly located in the shopping bazaar of the same name, this hotel restaurant serves outstanding food, attracting Latvia’s best chefs. Elizabetes 83/85, C-2, Tel: 6777 0957, Open: Mon-Sat 12.00-23.00. Carpe Diem Translated from Latin, this name urges you to “seize the day”, and you will definitely want time to stop in this classy, sophisticated restaurant. A non-obtrusive, calm interior in pale colors. The menu offers contemporary international cuisine. Live jazz performances run every evening. Meistaru 10/12, G-2, Tel: 6722 8488, Mon-Wed: 11.00 – 24.00, Fri-Sat. 12.00 – 02.00, Sun. 12.00–22.00. DESIDERATA What makes Desiderata unique is the preservation of antiquity, as part of the décor reveals a 16th century well and old city walls. Fine dining below a five star hotel awaits, whether you choose the elegant standard tables, private niches or special throne-like seating. An international menu with a seafood emphasis. Kaļķu 3a (Royal Square Hotel), G-3, Tel: 6721 6777. Open daily: 12.00–24.00. La Boheme This up-scale restaurant in the embassy district is synonymous for style, luxury, and most of all taste. The interior has a strong Scandinavian feel with warm woods and stock walls. Sophisticated food is delicate, as is the background smooth jazz and light classical music. J.Alunāna 2a, B-2, Tel: 67321938, Mon-Sat. 12.00–23.00, Sun. 12.00– 20.00. Otto SchwarZ The ambiance and elegance of this restaurant goes with a bygone era which befits this historic dining establishment. As you gaze over one of the best wine lists in the Baltics, be sure to enjoy the great

For java junkies, here are our favorites to choose from. Find one that fits your taste, from the trendy to the traditional. Brown sugar A warm interior with a loto f tasty treats to go with your coffe. Brown Sugar. Baznīcas 1/3, C-2, Tel: 6728 1308, Open Mon.-Fri. 8.00-23.00, Sat.-Sun. 10.00-22.00 Monte Kristo A charming café with an assortment of cakes and sandwiches to choose from. Ģertrūdes iela 27, C-2, Tel: 6731 6361, Mon-Fri: 09.0021.00, Sat. 10.00-20.00, Sun. 11.00-20.00. Coffee Nation A comfortable chain of modern, minimalist cafes for the city set. Tirgoņu iela 4, F-3, Blaumaņa iela 5, C-2, Valdemāra iela 21, B-2, Pulkveža Brieža 7, B-2, Tel: 6777 8222, Open daily: 08.00-22.00. Double Coffee This successful local café chain offers more in the name of lunch, alcoholic cocktails and desserts. Vaļņu 11, B-3, Tel: 6750 3198, Tērbatas 5, C-2, Tel: 6721 7545, Open daily: 00.0024.00. view of the park below. Kaļķu 28 (in Hotel De Rome), H-2, Tel: 6708 7600, Open daily: 07.0023.00, for breakfast: 7.00-10.30; Dinner-Lunch: 12.00-23.00. Seasons Upscale dining at its finest. Here you will be pampered with excellent service and a fabulous menu that is sure to please all. Sit back in the leather chairs and enjoy the fireplace with a superb wine, and let your troubles disappear. Pils 12 (in Grand Palace Hotel), F-2, Tel: 6704 4000, Mon.-Sat. 7.00-23.00. VincentS Winner of many awards and much praise, Vincents is sure to please. The food at Vincents is definitely international with an accent on organically grown products and slow food cooking. Elizabetes 19, B-2, Tel: 6733 2634, Mon.-Fri. 12.00-23.00, Sat. 18.00–23.00, Sun. closed

Casual

bestsellers Located in Albert Hotel, this quaint restaurant has the feeling of a large library and the menu offers a wide selection. Great for lunch or dinner. Dzirnavu 33, B-2, Tel: 6733 1717, Open Mon.-Fri. 06.30-23.00, Sat.-Sun. 07.00-23.00. C.U.T. For a contemporary cosmopolitan atmosphere and an emphasis on generous grilled dishes featuring imported organic beef. Casual diners can enjoy lavish breakfasts, mix and match from a buffet lunch, or take in an a la carte dinner in this roomy restaurant. Elizabetes 73 (in Reval Hotel Elizabete), tel. 6778 5578. Open 7.00-24.00.

2009.03.30. 10:27:45

dining guide Charlestons With tasty titles like Jack Daniel’s pork chops and Cognac karbonade, you know there is something fun happening in the kitchen. A fine job of providing good service matched with tasty food. Blaumaņa 38/40, C-2, Tel: 6777 0573, Open daily: 12.00-24.00. Domini Canes A fresh breeze for Riga’s dining scene, creating a pleasant alternative to the rather pricey Old Riga dining venues, this eatery’s international menu isn’t wide but what they do have is prepared perfectly, combining ingredients and contrasting ideas. Skārņu 20, G-3, Tel. 2231 4122; Open: Mon-Thurs 10:00-24:00; Fri 10:00-06:00; Sat 11:00-06:00; Sun 11:00-24:00. Garšu laboraTORIJA (The Taste Laboratory) – An innovative dining idea under the guidance of a locally renowned chef and restaurateur, Latvian-Canadian Elmārs Tannis. The main aim of this place is to provide space for company functions, cooking classes, cuisine-themed banquets and Elmārs’ TV cooking program. Dzirnavu 113 (Upīša Pasāža), C-3, Tel: 6728 1649 (by appointment only). Melnie mŪki (Black Monks) – Comes highly recommended by locals and foreigners alike. Polite wait staff that serve up a blend of tasty cosmopolitan cuisines – one of the biggest menus in town. Jāņa Sēta 1, G-3, Tel: 6721 5006, Open daily: 11.0024.00. Vive le Figaro! Vive le Figaro offers a Spanish-inspired sophisticated setting for a wonderful dinner. The menu is international, offering everything form juicy steaks to fresh seafood. On the weekends there is live piano music. Grēcinieku 26, F-3, Tel. 2669 9966, Open: Mon-Thurs: 11.00-23.00, Fri.-Sun. 12.00-01.00.

Vegetarian

Kamala Named after K amala, a 4-armed Indian deity that sits in a cross-legged posture meditating on a tender pink lotus. With an accent on Ayurvedic health, the menu of K amala is vegetarian. Jauniela 14, F3, Tel: 6721 1332, Open daily: 11.00-23.00.

Jurmala restaurants

MAMA For a unique taste of Italy with inventive dishes

Domini Canes including ones with a Baltic influence, as well as the classics. The service is attentive and the atmosphere is light and bright with a touch of class. Check out the bathrooms for a quaint surprise! Tirgoņu 22, Majori, tel: 6776 1271. Open daily 10.00-23.00. Orizzonte Stylish new restaurant and bar occupies an entire building right on Dubulti beach. The site once housed a life-savers’ station, so that explains the incredible location and 180 degree water views that can’t be matched anywhere else in Jūrmala. An international menu offers a moderate selection with an accent of Asian cooking. Baznīcas 2b, Dubulti, Jūrmala, Tel. 6776 0059, Downstairs open 10.00-23.00, U pstairs open Sun.-Thurs 12.00-24.00, Fri. & Sat. until 2.00. Preatore Silver service reigns supreme with attentive waiters in white gloves whipping off silver cloches to reveal your meal. The international menu isn’t wide or adventurous, but what they have is prepared perfectly, adding upscale atmosphere makes this restaurant one of the best you can find in Ju-

rmala. Baznīcas 2, Dubulti, Jurmala, Tel. 6776 9994, Open daily 12.00-12.00 TB palace The TB Palace hotel follows the best traditions of the European aristocratic houses. So does its luxurious restaurant, where you will be treated like Our listings cover establishments the editors find worthy of your attention! We recommend making reservations by phone if you want the nice table by the window. The average per person price, including VAT, for a three course dinner without beverages is indicated with , , . As a rule, the average amount of gratuity is 10 percent. Each listing has an easy-to-use map reference number - inexpensive (price under € 20) - moderate (€ 20 - € 35) - expensive (€ 35 and over ) These establishments are the winners of RigaNOW! 2009 Platinum Platter awards

Check out more restaurants at www.bestriga.com

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Night guide

Entertainment

guide

Bars, nightclubs, casinos & fun centers Riga, one of the largest cities on the Baltic Sea, has a dynamic entertainment scene. The diversity of cultures mingling in this town mix to create an interesting and exciting night out that, if you’re not careful, can easily stretch into the morning. BARS

A. Suns Not only is A. Suns the right place to have all your pub grub favorites, it also is a happening place to meet for a drink or two. Elizabetes 83/85 (Berga bazārs), C-2, Tel: 6728 8 418, Mon.-Thurs. 10.00-01.00, Fri. 10.00-03.00, Sat. 11.00-03.00, Sun. 11.00-01.00. B-bārs Balzāma Bārs is a stylishly smooth place, located in Doma Laukums Square in Old Town. One should have really high expectations in such a fancy neighborhood, and B-Bārs rises to the occasion perfectly. They have a rich selection of cocktails, priced rather high, but corresponding to what one would expect in such an establishment. Doma laukums 2, F-2, Tel: 6722 8842 Mon.-Wed. 12.00-24.00, Thurs. 08.00-01.00, Fri. 11.00-03.00, Sat. 11.00-03.00, Sun. 11.0024.00. CHAMPAGNE & WINE BAR A wine-lover’s paradise in the Old Town, this stylish and sophisticated bar has a resident wine expert on site to share his expertise with you. With thematic evenings featuring wines from different countries or regions, they also offer a selection of snacks and meals. Valņu 19, H-2, Tel: 6735 9595. Open Sun.Wed. 12.00-24.00, Thurs. 12.00-01.00, Fri.-Sat. 12.00-03.00. D’Vine Grape and Spirits Bar This wine and tapas bar puts traditional pleasures into a futuristic setting - sleek metal and lacquer beneath a fuchsia glowing ceiling. Glass from all sides lets you see - and be seen - by the streets of Riga as you sip brandy, wine or champagne. This modern bar can easily transform to a mini multi-facility conference or private party venue. Elizabetes 55, C-2, Tel: 6777 2217. Mon.-Thurs.. 12.00-24.00, Fri.-Sat. 12.00-01.00.

Lounge Eight Escape to a distinctive realm - exclusive, adventurous and special. A piece of Mediterranean-Cuban sunshine in the heart of Old Riga. Immerse yourself in the lazy chill-out mood of “Liberty Island”, sipping various fruit, berry and even sea-buckthorn mojitos and smoking a fat La Casa Del Habano cigar. Lounge 8 makes a difference to most of the noisy bars in Riga, by attracting a more mature and classy audience. Vaļnu 19 (entrance from Glēznotāju), B-3, Tel: 6735 9595. Sun.-Wed. 12.00-24.00, Thurs. 12.00-01.00, Fri.-Sat. 12.00-03.00. Radio Bars In the heart of the Old Town, is a venue with a super-funky interior for music lovers and anyone who likes to boogie. A good place to kick off your clubbing night, there’s a myriad of classic, exotic and potent cocktails available. Šķūņu 17 (Entrance from Zirgu

street), F-2, Tel. 6722 4457, Open: Mon.-Wed. 12.00-24.00; Thurs.- Fri.12.00-03.00; Sat. 18.00-05.00 Rīgas Balzams This sophisticated restaurant bears the name of the pride of Latvia, “Riga’s Black Balsam”. This concoction, made of more than 12 herbs is famous for its medicinal qualities. If the Balzams doesn’t seem to want to go down straight, try ordering a cocktail containing this dark wonder stuff. Torņa 4, F-2, Tel: 6721 4494, Mon.Wed. 11.00-24.00, Thurs-Sat. 11.00-01.00, Sun. 11.00-24.00. Sarkans (Red) This ultra-modern restaurant and club spanning three floors serves up a mean menu and tasty cocktails. This place really comes alive on the weekends. Very quickly Sarkans has made a name for itself by entertaining the young and beautiful. . Stabu 10, C-2, Tel: 6727 2286,

Studio 69

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night guide

YOU must be OVER 18 and SHOW I.D. Most take a digital photo for security reasons. Good luck! Europa Club Casino For elegant gaming, European style! Lucky 13 gaming tables, slot machines, live music evenings. K r. Barona 12, C-2, tel: 6750 2840, Open daily: 00.00-24.00 Olympic CITY Casino Located in the centre of the city the Olympic City Casino has a modern style atmosphere. K r. Barona 3, C-3, Tel: 6728 9124. Open daily: 00.00-24.00 Olympic Voodoo Casino The largest casino in Latvia! 26 gaming tables, slot machines and a 24h sushi restaurant. Elizabetes 55 (Reval Hotel Latvija), C-2, Tel: 6782 8777, Open daily: 00.00-24.00 Royal Casino The pleasant atmosphere and saucy interior. 16 tables for poker, Blackjack and roulette. Poker tournaments are organized every day from. Terbatas 73, C-2, Tel.6750 6030, Open daily 00.00-24 .00 VEGAS Entertainment Complex Not just a casino, but an entertainment complex with the night club, sports bar, restaurant and regular shows. 7 gaming tables and nearly 100 slot machines. Tē rbatas 2, C-2, Tel: 2639 38 39, Open daily: 00.00-24.00

Mon.-Thurs. 10.00-24.00, Fri. 10.00-04.00, Sat. 12.00-04.00, Sun. 12.00-24.00. Skyline Bar Even if you can’t get a window seat to look over Riga from the 26th floor while sipping fabulous cocktails, this bar is worth visiting. You can enjoy the scenic view from the glass elevators carrying you smoothly up and down the side of the Reval Hotel. Being as fashionable a place as it is, this bar attracts both the Latvian elite and foreign businessmen. Elizabetes 55 (Reval Hotel Latvija-26th floor), C-2, Tel: 6777 2282, Mon.-Fri. 15.00-02.00, Sat.-Sun. 15.00-03.00.

Adult Entertainment

Salon LABI Sensual and interesting girls, spacious video rooms, private and intimate shows, exclusive massages according your needs, confidentiality guaranteed. Lāčplēša 47 (C-2), tel. 6728 6115, Open daily 00-24.

Salon LABI Private shows, exclusive massages, erotic bathing, pleasant bar, Stern Lady’s boudoir for fans of S&M games, all in the centre of town. Confidentiality guaranteed. Brīvības 98 (C-2), tel. 6727 3375, Open Mon-Fri: 10.00-22.00, SatSun 00-24. Salon LABI Cozy salon with wide range of adult toys, great prices, wide offer of exclusive massages, private shows, confidentiality guaranteed. Situated in the city centre. Lāčplēša 61 (C-3), tel. 6728 6641, Open Mon-Fri: 10.00-22.00, Sat-Sun 00-24. Salon LUX Special offers for both ladies and gentlemen, Finnish sauna, infra-red sauna, Jacuzzi, antique hall, well-stocked bar, quality relaxation for respectable clientele. Confidentiality guaranteed and special discounts every day. In the very centre of the city, just a few minutes from all hotels. Kalniņa 8 (C-3), tel. 6728 2171, Open daily 00-24.

PUBS

PADDY WHELAN’S IRISH Pub This place offered the first western style pub atmosphere way back when, and it has certainly lasted the distance. Great for watching sports and still an expat favorite. Happy hour Mon.-Fr 17.00-18.00. Grēcinieku 4, G-3, Tel: 6721 0150, Sun.-Thurs. 11.00-01.00. Fr.-Sat. 10.00-3.00.

Nightclubs

Bites blūza klubs (The Bee’s Blues Club) – Often you need to go a little off the beaten path to find the brightest gems. If live blues is your taste, then this is well worth the trek. Authentic Americana. Blues artists from as far away as Chicago and New Orleans twice a month play this venue as well as local artists almost every night. Dzirnavu 34a, B-2, Tel: 6733 3123, Mon.-Thurs. 11.00-23.00, Fri. 11.00-2.00, Sat. 14.00-02.00. Crystal After four years of preparation, Crystal Club has finally opened its doors. Apart from the local DJs, the entertainment program includes internationally known guests. Cover charge €14 and face control. Lāčplēša 52/54, C-2, Tel. 2030 2030; Fri-Sat 23:00-06:00. Godvil is the newest venue in Riga’s teeming club life, offering musical variety and concerts with internationally known stars every Friday and Saturday. Brīvības gatve 214b (D-1)Open: Fri.-Sat. 22.00– 06.00 Nautilus As the red light starts to flash on the dance floor you might be thinking, “Dive! Dive! Dive!” into the masses of gyrating bodies. The chill-out room has some of the best bartenders in Riga working the crowd. Dance parties here have been known to last into the wee hours of the morning. Kungu 8, G-4, Tel: 6781 4455, Thurs.Sat. 23.00-8.00.

More new nightclubs & bars at www.bestriga.com

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Night guide Pulkvedim neviens neraksta (Nobody Writes to the Colonel) –This is one of Riga’s most popular nightclubs. The lights here are dim, and the interior is something of a mix between an old underground metro station and an ornamented warehouse with ventilation pipes, exposed wiring and textured walls. The smaller bar pays homage to Austin Powers. It’s simply shagadelic, baby! Peldu 26/28, G-4, Tel: 6721 3886. Open Mon. – Sat. 20.00 – 05.00 STUDIO 69 this is place that bleeds class and cash. Besides its thumping nightclub, this sizeable complex houses several other areas, such as the cigar club, and an upmarket restaurant. Tērbatas 7 (C-2), Tel. 6750 6030, Open: Fri.-Sat. 22.00– 06.00

Cinemas

Forum Cinema The 2nd largest cinema-plex in northern Europe. It has 14 theaters with 3,000 seats. 13. Janvāra 8, C-3, Tel: 1189, Open daily: 11.00-02.00.

Aerobics & Gym

Radisson SAS Daugava Health Center Everybody, not just those staying at Radisson SAS are welcome to enjoy their health club, offering a swimming pool, sauna, SPA services and massage. Radisson SAS Daugava Hotel, Kuģu 24, A-3, Tel: 67061111. Mon.-Sat. 7.00 – 23.00, Sun. 8.00 – 22.00.

water relaxation

Babor SPA Situated in the Nordic Hotel Bellevue in the centre of the town SPA offers a wide range of luxury treatements and massages for ladies and gentlemen for reasonable prices. Procedures are made using a top-quality products. Raiņa bulv. 33, C-3, Tel. 6755 9650, Open: Mon.-Fri. 09.00-22.00; Sat.-Sun. 10.00-22.00 Kolonna SPA Situated in Galerija Centrs, at this spa complex you can get seriously spoiled by the wide range of beauty rituals: hydrotherapy procedures, 14 types of massage, Finnish and Turkish sauna, various seaweed and mud treatments, body wraps, tanning procedures. Audēju 16, H-3, Tel: 67018034. Mon.-Fri. 08.00 – 22.00, Sat.-Sun. 9.00 -20.00. Līvu Akvaparks Līvu Akvaparks, the indoor water attraction and amusement park in the resort town of Jūrmala, lies about 25 km outside of Riga. The 11,000 m2 park is the biggest in the Baltic region, and offers a wide range of water slides and attractions. Viestura 24, Jūrmala, Tel: 6775 5636, Wed.-Fri. 12.00 -22.00, Sat. 11.00-22.00, Sun. 11.00-21.00. Park SPA Located in front of picturesque K ronvalda Park, this is the latest spa to prettify the city. Hot Stone Massage, Cleopatra Milk Bath and Black Pepper Peeling are just a few of the treatments available. Kalpaka bulv. 9, B-2, Tel. 2912 1111; Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 14:00-21:00. 30

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2009

Shopping guide Riga’s best boutiques, speciality shops and department stores You can find most anything you want to buy in Riga. The city stocks a variety of goods in a vast range of stores. Discover the unique qualities of the many outdoor markets, handicrafts and antique stores throughout the center and Old Town. Credit cards are accepted at most locations, so shop till you drop!

Books

Jāņa Rozes A large selection of international books. They can also order books for you. Barona 5, C-2, Brīvības 90, Krasta 46, Audēju 16, Maskavas 357, Tel: 6728 4288, Mon-Fri: 10.00-20.00, Sat: 10.00-19.00, Sun: closed. Globuss A nice cosy book store in the Old Town. Read your new purchase in their coffee shop upstairs. Valnu 26, H-3, Mon-Fri: 10.00-19.00, Sat: 10.00-17.00, Sun: closed. Valters un Rapa The largest bookstore in the Baltics with a café in the basement. Aspazijas 24, H-3, Tel: 6722 7482, Mon-Fri: 09.00-21.00, Sat: 10.00-21.00, Sun: 10.00-16.00.

Fashion

Bergs High quality German brands offering fashion for ladies and gentlemen.Also Italian shoes, lingerie; perfumes. Marijas iela 11, C-3, Tel: 67288393, Mon-Fri:10.00 - 19.00, Sat: 10.00 - 17.00, Sun: closed. Chapurin One of the most famous Russian high class designers offers his latest creations in this Old Town boutique. Jēkaba 3/5, F-1, Tel: 67228862.

Excellence in Treatment, Education and Science Your Health is Our Priority

Mon-Fri: 11.00 – 19.00, Sat: 11.00 – 17.00, Sun: closed. Decadence Women and men’s collections by Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith, etc. Mazā Smilšu 13 – 601, G-2, Tel: 67227798, Mon-Fri:11.00 – 19.30, Sat: 11.00 - 18.00, Sun: closed. Emporio Armani Women & men’s lines of clothing, accessories & shoes. Elizabetes 51, B-2, Tel. 67240023, Mon-Fri: 10.00 - 20.00, Sat: 10.00 - 18.00, Sun: closed. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Outstanding quality and classic Italian design can be found in this men’s designer boutique. Accessories to overcoats, to dress with more than a touch of class. Merķeļa iela 2, C-3, Tel: 6755 9838. Mon-Sun 10:45 -19:45. Garage A selection of modern clothes, accessories and interior decorations by Latvian designers. Marijas 13 (Berga Bazars), C-3, Tel: 67288308, Mon - Fri: 10.00 – 20.00, Sat: 10.00 -19.00, Sun: closed. GF Ferre Gianfranco Ferre, GFF collections. Elizabetes 51, B-2, Tel. 67504882, Mon-Fri: 10.00 - 20.00, Sat: 10.00 - 18.00, Sun: closed.

Hugo Boss The essence of elegance for men and women. Terbatas 1/3, C-2, Tel: 67283429, Mon-Fri: 10.00 -20.00, Sat: 10.00 - 18.00, Sun: closed. Marina Rinaldi The latest fashion trends for voluptuous women. Vaļņu 3, G-2, Tel: 67715851, Mon - Fri: 10.00 – 19.00, Sat: 11.00 – 18.00, Sun: closed. Max Mara Luxury smart Italian women’s fashion. Kr.Barona 24/26, C-2, Tel. 67280409, Mon-Fri: 10.00 - 19.00, Sat: 11.00 - 18.00, Sun: closed. Palazzo Italia Italian fashion center with the latest collections from top Italian designers such as D&G, Robert Cavalli and many many more. Biggest selection in the Baltics! Barona 2, C-3, Tel: 6707 0930, Mon-Sat: 10:45-19:45, Sun: 11.00-18.00. Plaza Boutique High-class designer labels. Torņu 4, (G-2), Tel: 6721 2181, Mon-Fri: 11.00-18.00, SatSun: closed. Podium A large multi-brand store of up-scale fashion, exclusive furniture and interior design. Brīvības 201, Tel: 6716 5551 Mon-Sat: 10.00-20.00, Sun: 10.00-17.00. ROBERTO VERINO

Ambulance service Diagnostic radiology Daytime heart diagnostics Dentistry and facial surgery Laser ophthalmology Kidney transplantation Radiation therapy and chemotherapy Sexually transmitted and skin diseases Physical medicine and rehabilitation

67069280 67069200 67069427 67452015 67069299 67069573 67069984 67803859 67069791

Address: Pilsonu Street 13, Riga, LV-1002, Phone: 67069602, www.stradini.lv

Riga's best boutiques at www.bestriga.com

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shopping guide A single-brand, 2 level store with clothing and accessories by Spanish designer Roberto Verino. Brīvības 39, C-2, Tel. 6724 0027, open Mon.-Fri. 11.00-20.00, Sat. 11.00-19.00, Sun. 11.00-17.00 Versace Cream of the crop of clothes, shoes and accessories. Vaļņu 3, G-2, Tel: 67715812, Mon-Fri: 10.00 – 19.00, Sat: 11.00 – 18.00, Sun: closed.

Fashion casual

Gerry Weber Elegant and practical clothes for women by this famous German brand. Tērbatas 32, C-2, Tel: 67285954, Mon-Fri: 10.00 – 20.00, Sat: 10.00 – 19.00, Sun: 11.00 – 17.00. Mango Spanish chain of affordable and trendy women’s and girls’ wear. Brīvības 47, C-2, Tel: 6728 85 09, Mon-Fri: 10.00-20.00, Sat: 10.00-20.00, Sun: 12.00-18.00. Zara One of the most stylish and beloved highstreet brands all over the world, offering women’s, men’s, youngsters’ and kids’ clothes, shoes and accessories. Tērbatas 30, C-2, Tel: 67504387, Mon-Fri: 10.00 – 20.00, Sat: 10 – 19, Sun:11.00 – 18.00.

Footwear

Alberto Guardiani U p scale Italian shoes for men and women. Brīvības 66, C-2, Tel: 67295789, Mon-Fri: 10.00-20.00, Sat: 10.00-19.00, Sun: 11.0017.00. CHESTER Men’s and women’s footwear. K r.Barona 36, C-2, Tel: 6721 7106, Open daily: 10.00-21.00 Carre High quality Italian shoes. Grēcinieku 5, G-3, Tel: 67229911, Mon-Fri:10.00 - 19.00, Sat: 11.00 - 17.00. Sun: closed. Loretti High fashion women’s shoes and boots. Terbatas 53, C-2, Vaļņu 3, Tel: 67295142, Mon.-Sat. 10.00-19.00, Sun: closed. Madam Bonbon Stylish shoes by Pedro Garcia, Magrit, Pons Quintana, Chie Mihara and Pura

Lopez. Alberta 1-7a, B-2, Tel. 2022 2235, Open Mon.-Fri. 11.00–19.00, Sat. 11.00-15.00 Vicini Designer shoes: Giuseppe Zanotti Design. Torņa 4/3a, B-2, Tel: 67324068, Mon-Fri: 10.00 - 19.00, Sat: 11.00 - 18.00, Sun: closed.

Jewelry watches

Dimax Offering magnificent timepieces from Audemars Piguet, Girard Perregaux, Zenith, Blancpain, Breguet, Breitling, Hublot Geneve, Parmigiani, Van Cleef and Arpels And Chanel. And graceful jewelry from H. Stern and Mikimoto. Valnu 1 (G-2), Tel. 6721 2424,Open Mon.Fri. 11.00-19.00, Sat. 11.00-18.00. Martas krasta Hand-made earrings, rings, necklaces made by Latvian jewelers. Kalēju 21, F-3, Tel: 6722 1003 Open daily: 11.00-19.00, Sun: 11.00 – 17.00. Putti One-of-a-kind earrings, rings, necklaces and cufflinks all made by Latvian jewelers. Marstaļu 16, F-3, Tel: 6721 4229. Mon-Sat: 10.00-19.00, Sun: 11.00-17.00. Ženeva Sells watches from affordable Festina to exclusive Omega, Longines, Rado, Vercace, Gucci, Balmain, Tissot, Jaguar; jewelry by K orloff, Schoeffel and Versace. Audēju 10, H-3, Tel: 67224042, Mon-Fri: 10.00-19.00, Sat: 10.00-18.00, Sun: 10.00-17.00.

Shopping centers

alfa CentrS Brīvības gatve 372, Tel: 6707 6400, Open daily: 10.00-22.00. domina Centrs A unique shopping mall with many stores that are not found at other shopping malls. Ieriku 3, by the Zemitanu bridge. Tel: 6763 1111, Open daily: 10.00-22.00. Elkor Plaza A shopping center offering items from sports equipment to furniture. Brīvības 201, D-1, Tel: 6707 0702, Open daily: 10.00 - 22.00. Galerija centrs Upscale fasion & shopping center. Audēju 16, H-3, Tel: 6701 8018, Open daily: 10.00 – 22.00, first floor: 08.00 – 22.00.

MC2 Includes an extensive selection at the delicatessen, furniture store and art gallery. Krasta 68a, D-4, Tel: 6700 6868, Mon-Sat: 10.00-21.00, Sun: 10.00-19.00. Mols One of the biggest shopping malls in Riga. Lots of stores and boutiques to choose from. K rasta 46, D-4, Tel: 6703 0303, Open daily: 10.00-22.00. Spice Apart from a wide range of stores selling fashion, food, gifts and more, this large shopping mall has two unique features - a furniture and interior design center and a kids village with motordrome and mini-train rides. Lielirbes 29, tel. 6780 7281. Open daily 10.00-22.00. Stockmann The key to success for the Finnish department store giant Stockmann is a broad assortment of quality products at competitive prices. Many foreign goods to be found at Stockmann can’t be found at any other retail store in Latvia. 13.janvāra 8, C-3, Tel: 6707 1200, Open daily: 9.00-22.00.

Markets

Central Market Five large zeppelin hangers stocked full of meat, fish, cheese, vegetables, and almost everything you might need for cooking. Word to the wise, watch your purse or you might see it being sold the next day. Prāgas 1, C-3, Tel: 6722 9961, Open daily: 08.00-18.00. ORGANIC AND SLOW FOOD Market You’ll find Riga’s only green market here, where you can purchase local produce and sample creations by some of Latvia’s top chefs in a classy atmosphere. Berga Bazārs, B-2, Tel: 6750 2310.

Souvenirs

Art Nouveau Riga Souvenirs and interior designs with Art Nouveau influence. Strēlnieku 9, B-2, Tel: 67333030. Open daily: 10.00-19.00 Nice Place An attractive new souvenir shop that offers creatively made pieces in unusual shapes and vivid colors. Laipu 5 (G-3), tel. 6721 1444; Open daily, 11:00-19:00.

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Before

After

2009.03.30. 10:28:52

hotel guide

Accommodation

guide

Riga boasts a handful of 5-star hotels and a growing range of more moderate accommodation. Front desk staff at all major hotels speak English and other languages. Luxury BOUTIQUE HOTEL BERGS A member of ”Small Luxury Hotels of the World” Hotel Bergs is a designer boutique hotel located in the historic Bergs Bazaar complex. In its “2004 Hot List” the American magazine Condé Nast Traveler features the Hotel Bergs among the 100 best hotels worldwide in 2004. This boutique hotel with its modern interior offers its clients a chance to relax and enjoy some of its amenities such as the library and clubroom. Decorated with the owner's own impressive private art collection for a strong cultural impression. Hotel Bergs is sure to become a favorite destination for travellers. Berga Bazārs, Elizabetes 83/85, C-2, Tel: 6777 0900, Fax: 6777 0940, email: reservation@hotelbergs.lv Rates: Studio €180, Apartment €259, Loft Suite €297, Penthouse €377. Special longterm rates are available as well as secure parking. Gallery Park Hotel The grand-looking hotel is located in the city center next to picturesque K alpaka Park,

in a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage building originally constructed in 1875. There are 24 rooms in total, including three suites – the gracious Royal and Imperial Suites, decorated with art objects, antiques and restored ceilings, and the contemporary chic Gallery Junior Suite Each of the guest rooms has individual design, featuring the most cutting-edge technology, a distinctive collection of art objects, spacious bathrooms and luxurious amenities like Frette linen and Thalgo toiletries. Rates from € 185 for a superior room to € 1820 for a night in the empire-style Imperial Suite. Kr. Valdemara 7,B-2, Tel. 6733 8830, Fax. 6733 8831, reservations@galleryparkhotel.lv Hotel de Rome This 5-star hotel offers almost everything one could expect. Hallways and rooms furnished with turn-of-the century antiques create an elegant mood. Some of the rooms offer spectacular views of the nearby park and the Freedom Monument. Enjoy your dinner at the renowned restaurant Otto Schwarz on the top floor. They offer 3 conference & banquet rooms, as well as out of house catering. Kaļķu 28, H-2, Tel: 6708 7600, Fax:

67087606, e-mail: reservation@derome.lv, www.derome.lv Rates: single €142, double and superior room €172, suite €230. Prices include breakfast buffet, sauna, service and VAT. Parking lot available. Hotel Grand Palace Class and elegance are what this establishment is all about. Run by the Schlossle Hotel Group, it meets all the highest standards. The hotel has won for the fourth year in a row the best hotel in Latvia by the body of "World Travel Awards". The deluxe rooms are furnished in English and French classic style. You’ll find a digital in-room safe, direct dial/ISDN-lines and phones, voice mail and modem/fax connection, mini-bar, pay-TV, trouser press, free wireless internet, full bathroom and even a single-use K odak camera. The lounge bar and the two respected restaurants offer excellent food and exceptionally friendly staff. The hotel is also handicap accessible. Pils 12, F-2, Tel: 6704 4000, Fax: 6704 4001, www.grandpalaceriga.com Rates: standard €220-250, deluxe €240270, business class: €305, junior suite €425, suite €590.

Always book your hotel cheaply at www.bestriga.com

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hotel guide atmosphere in the atrium of the hotel. With views of the Old Town and Daugava River, the Avalon hotel is ideal place for tourists and business travelers. Rates: Standard: 110 – 130 €, Superior: €120-140, Jr. Suite: €185, Suite: €200. Kalēju 70/72, J-2, Tel.: 6716 9999, Fax: 6716 0571, e-mail: reservations@hotelavalon.eu.

Gutenbergs

Radisson SAS Daugava The internationally-known hotel chain offers one of the best hotels in the Baltics. Each of the spacious rooms has cable TV, mini-bar and a full bathroom. Fitness center and swimming pool are also there for your convenience. Many conferences are held at this hotel due to its 300 person capacity. Try a wide selection of international favourites in restaurant Panorama. Lobby Bar ia a great place to relax and enjoy an incredible view of the Old Town. The hotel is wheelchair as well as child friendly. Kuģu 24, A-3, Tel: 6706 1111, Fax: 6706 1100, e-mail: reservations.riga@ radissonsas.com. Rates: Rates: Daily rates starting from €114, check www.riga. radissonsas.com for prices. Breakfast and VAT included. REVAL HOTEL RĪDZENE This luxury hotel is a perfect environment for business. The Latvian interior is combined with a Scandinavian flavor. There’s a fitness center and sauna, with a great panoramic view of the nearby park. Comfy rooms designed in reddish tones have all the necessary extras for business travelers. Enjoy outstanding meals in one of the best restaurants in Riga at the hotel restaurant Piramīda. Reimersa 1, H-1, tel. 6732 4433, fax. 6732 2600, e-mail: ridzene@revalhotels.com. Rates: Starting from €140, check www.revalhotels.com for prices, which include breakfast but exclude VAT. Underground parking. All facilities have wheelchair access. ROYAL SQUARE HOTEL & SUITES Right in the heart of the most historic area

of Riga, this well-positioned refuge offers 31 rooms, including classic and executive and suites. Decorated in unobtrusive colors, they all include large flat screen TVs, phone, mini-bar, trouser press, safe, and ample bathrooms with bidet and bath. Some have interesting stained-glass decorations, others offer French balconies, and all provide fluffy robes, slippers, complimentary cosmetics and use of the hotel sauna and Jacuzzi. There’s also free WiFi and 24 hour rooms service. However, for the ultimate in luxury, there are four suites with extras such as private saunas, Jacuzzi and a romantic fireplace. The Desiderata fine dining restaurant is downstairs, plus a bar in the lobby. Kaļķu 3a, G-3, tel: 6721 4555, fax: 6721 4777, e-mail: hotel@royalsquare. lv Rates: singles €185–€215, doubles €219–€250, suites €795, junior suites €509, presidential suite €1,200

UPMARKET

AINAVAS Boutique Hotel This completely unique boutique hotel will definitely make your stay in Riga memorable. Each of the 21 rooms is differently decorated. The breakfast varies every morning and is served by very polite and attentive staff. Peldu 23, G-4, Tel: 6781 4316, Fax: 67814317, e-mail:reservations@ainavas.lv, www.ainavas.lv Rates: single €120, double €156, jr.suite €175, suite €195, apartment €240. Prices include gourmet breakfast, generous amenities and VAT. AVALON Located in the historical part of the Riga, the Avalon hotel offers stunning interior design, modernity and comfort. The panorama elevator will let you feel the special

DOMINA INN RIGA This 4-star hotel is located in the quiet center of Riga, in the prestigious Art Nouveau and embassy neighborhood, about 20 minutes walk from Old Riga. Located in a restored historic building, each of 110 rooms has air conditioning, cable TV, telephone, WIFI, safe, minibar and bathrooms with heated floors. The hotel features a modern sauna area with Jacuzzi. There’s also a fine Italian restaurant Da Antonio and the Inn Lounge bar. Pulkveža Brieža 11/13, B-2, tel. 6763 1800, Fax: 6763 1801, e-mail: info@dominainnriga.com. Rates: € 69-260. Europa Royale Riga Overlooking the majestic Vērmanes Park this 19th century luxurious five-floor hotel is well known as a cultural monument. The Benjamin House, in which the hotel is located is a historical building which was fully restored and updated with modern conveniences. The central location makes it very attractive for leisure and business travelers. The Old Town and National Opera house can be reached in a few minutes. Businesspeople will find themselves in close vicinity of the political and business districts. Shopping streets and major places of interest are close by. Highlights of the hotel include an average of 20m2 rooms, windows in some bathrooms and balconies that overlook the park, and the most grandiose dining room in Riga. Standard: €120–140, DeLux: €150–170, Suite: €300, Presidential suite: €700. Kr. Barona 12, C-2, Tel: 6707 9444, Fax: 6707 9449; e-mail: riga@europaroyale.com www.europaroyale.com Islande Hotel Opened in 2006, the hotel offers all facilities and services which might be expected in a four star hotel. The hotel is located on K ipsala, across the river Daugava. A quick 10 minute walk over the bridge will get you into Old Town. The 205 well-equipped rooms, including two suites -"Odins" and "Freija" have fantastic panoramic views of the Old Town, as does the rooftop restaurant "Arctic lights". The

2009.03.30. 10:28:59

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hotel guide hotel is ideally suited for large tours as well as families, has a bowling alley, wellness center and gym. K ids under 12 get to stay free! With 5 conference rooms supplied with the latest technical equipment, and the convention center within walking distance, it also makes for the ideal choice for business travellers. Singles: €92; Doubles: €107 - 128; Suites: €200 - 385. www.islandehotel.lv. ķipsalas 20, A-2, Tel: 6760 8000, Fax: 6760 8001, e-mail: reception@islandehotel.lv Hotel Gutenbergs Enjoy the interior on each floor, designed in different styles. From more intimate in the newer wing, to classical in the older one. Rooms are small, but very comfortable, equipped with cable TV, phone and bathroom. There is a rooftop summer terrace where you can enjoy wonderful evenings. Modern conference facilities are available as well as non-allergic rooms. Doma laukums 1, F-2, Tel: 6781 4090, Fax: 6750 3326, e-mail: hotel@gutenbergs.lv, Rates: single €128, double €156, Jr. suite €185, suite €213. HOTEL RIGA This magnificent hotel is located in the heart of Riga, just opposite the National Opera House and the Freedom Monument. Having been restored and revitalized, its distinctive charm and hospitality offers an experience of unparalleled heritage, warmth and service. The rooms are comfortable and well equipped, with excellent views to the Opera Gardens or the Old Town. There are excellent banqueting and conference facilities, a restaurant, a spacious lobby with bar, shops, a sauna and a casino. Aspāzijas bulv. 22, H-2, Tel. 6704 4222, Fax. 6704 4223, email: info@hotelriga.lv. Daily rates starting from €60 a night. Check best available rates at www.hotelriga.lv.. Maritim Park Hotel Riga The famous German hotel chain successfully expanded to Latvia, offering a great hotel with bright, modern rooms and one of the largest conference facilities in Riga. There are all the usual conveniences; phone, satellite TV, private bath, air conditioner and internet connection in each room. All guests get to use the modern fitness center, which includes a sauna and steam bath. Eat at the restaurant Bellevue on the 11th floor, or try the Park restaurant on the 1st floor. Slokas 1, A-3, Tel: 6706 9000, Fax: 706 9001, e-mail: reservations@maritim.lv Rates: Standard: €129 - 149, Superior: €189-209, Jr. Suite: €270, Ex. Suite: €385.

Prices include VAT and breakfast buffet. Parking lot available. MONIKA CENTRUM HOTEL This completely renovated historic NeoGothic building provides a luxurious and delightfully atmospheric hotel. There are 80 spacious rooms, many with balconies and views of a beautiful park. They are fitted with air conditioning, free Internet, mini bar, and spacious bathrooms with bathtubs and bidets. Suites are ultra-luxurious with four-poster beds. The hotel contains a recreation center, guarded parking lot 100 meters from the hotel, modern conference rooms, and for entertainment there’s a winter garden, bar and fine-dining restaurant. Elizabetes 21, (B-2), Tel: 6703 1900, Fax: 6703 1901, e-mail: monika@centrumhotels.com, www.centrumhotels.com. Rates: single from € 85, doubles from € 97, junior suite from € 120, suite from € 205. Metropole This hotel was built in 1871 and completely renovated in 1992 with Scandinavian style décor. The Metropole has become a favorite with business, diplomatic and leisure travellers alike. The hotel is located in the Old Town near the National Opera and central shopping areas. It has 80 stylish rooms with a definite Scandinavian touch. The Metropole Hotel's Columbine Restaurant is well-known for its marvelous Scandi navian and International cuisine. There is a complimentary business and fitness center and sauna. The hotel provides special rates for individual guests, groups, and weekend packages. Aspāzijas bulv. 36/38, H-3, Tel: 6722 5411, Fax: 6721 6140, e-mail: metropole@metropole.lv; www.metropole.lv Rates: single from €93114, double €107, suites €164, family room €143. Special offers starting at €50. Complimentary business and fitness center. NORDIC HOTEL BELLEVUE This centrally located hotel is in the heart of Riga’s transport hub and just a stone’s throw from the Old Town. The 19th century building was originally a hotel and has been recently fully renovated with modern conveniences. It includes 112 tastefully decorated rooms with oak floors, many with delightful park views, and all with aircooling, an interactive Pay TV system, safe and mini bar. Room rates include English breakfast. The hotel has a conference center, a luxurious spa and a superb restaurant with lobby bar on the ground floor. Raiņa bulv.

33, C-3, Tel: 6706 3400, Fax: 6706 3401, email: bellevue@nordichotels.eu Rates: standard single €99, standard double €129, superior double €155, double deluxe €125, Suite €290. RAMADA Part of the well-known international hotel chain, Ramada contains 52 rooms decorated in a classic Victorian inspired style, in a building with character. All rooms are exceptionally spacious and equipped with air conditioning, safe, flat screen cable TV, minibar, internet and unique tea and coffee making facilities. The entire hotel is nonsmoking. There’s currently a buffet restaurant and one conference room.Ģertrūdes 70, C-3, tel. 6779 1600, Fax. 6779 1601, email: reservations@ramada-riga.lv. Rates: singles €80-120, doubles €90-140, business rooms €100-150, suites €120-200. REVAL HOTEL ELIZABETE This stunningly modern hotel with 228 rooms is located opposite a beautiful park and some 15 minutes walk from Old Town. Inside has an amazing courtyard where patrons can eat and drink under the open sky. Indoors you’ll find a large grill restaurant and stylish cocktail bar. Trendy hotel rooms are fitted with all the mod-cons like flat screen TVs and guests can even choose from a pillow menu! Fitness center, free WIFI, underground parking, conference facilities. Elizabetes 73, C-2, tel. 6778 5555, fax 6778 5554, www.revalhotels.com. Rates: Reval class from €120, executive class from €165, junior suites from €380. Reval Hotel Latvija This excellent hotel offers everything to make your stay as pleasant as possible. You will find phone, mini-bar, hairdryer, climate control and satellite TV, as well as a fitness center, 16-hour room service, laundry and valet service, shops, beauty salon and underground parking for up to 40 cars. You certainly won't feel bored here either. You can enjoy the spectacular view from the Skyline bar on the 26th floor, have an excellent meal in the Esplanade restaurant, and have fun in the Olympic Voodoo casino. With nearly 600 modern rooms for you to choose from, there is sure to be one to your liking. Elizabetes 55, C-2, Tel: 6777 2222, Fax: 777 2332, e-mail: latvija.sales@revalhotels.com Rates: Daily rates starting from €99, check www.revalhotels.com for prices. Breakfast and VAT included.

2009.03.30. 10:29:50

hotel guide MID-RANGE Albert Hotel Albert Hotel is a moderately priced hotel situated in a quiet center of Riga. An 11-storey building in the exclusive zone of Art Nouveau architecture. The hotel is also located in the heart of Riga's commercial center, within walking distance to nearby embassies, major banks, companies, concert halls and the Old Town. An impeccably stylish Bestsellers restaurant on the first floor offers you international cuisine: Italian, French, Greek, Russian, Chinese and Latvian specialties. On the glass upper floor of Albert Hotel you will find a lounge bar with an impressive view of the twinkling lights of Riga's city center. Dzirnavu 33, B-2, Tel: 6733 1717, Fax: 733 1718, Rates: single €94, double €102, family €157, business class €169. Konventa sēta Homey hotel with a strong Scandinavian feel. The hotel is located in an historical place, so much so that they even have a museum in the basement. Rooms are very ornate with original oak beams in the interior. There are five well-equipped conference rooms and two high-class restaurants. The banquet hall is also available for any function. The exceptionally kind staff will make it hard to leave. Kalēju 9/11, C-3, Tel: 6708 7501, Fax: 6708 7515, e-mail: reservation@konventa.lv. Rates: single €90, double €95, jr. suite €100110, suite €120-135, apartments €180. MAMA Just a short stroll from Jurmala’s popular pedestrian Jomas street and 15 minutes walk from Majori beach, you’ll find MaMa. This intimate boutique hotel has seven rooms, each imaginatively designed in funky silver and white with charming decorative details. All rooms have

a minibar, safe, cable TV, free internet and air-conditioning, while apartments contain kitchenettes. Check out the rooftop tower for river views, or the classy restaurant and relaxation lounge. Tirgoņu 22, Majori, Jūrmala, tel: 6776 1271, e-mail: info@hotelmama.lv. Rates: doubles €85-185, one and two room apartments €145-215, three room apartment €185-280. HANZA HOTEL Only a short stroll from the Central Market and some 7 minutes walk from Old Town, you’ll find Hanza Hotel. Their 80 rooms, decorated in unobtrusive colours, have all the usual conveniences; phone, satellite TV, WIFI Internet, hair-dryer. The hotel has a conference hall, charming restaurant and cellar pub, and is wheel-chair friendly. Complimentary parking nearby. Elijas 7, C-3, Tel: 6779 6040, Fax: 6779 6044. Singles: €74, doubles: €93, business class: € 121. Hotel Valdemārs Hotel Valdemars, named after a famous Latvian public personality, is a modern hotel in a historical building, right in the center of the vibrating city of Riga. Valdemars is a completely renovated family owned hotel within the beautiful shell of the 1901 Art Nouveau building. Stay in one of their 84 rooms that are carefully decorated with a "Scandinavian" feel, providing the guests with all the necessary commodities and services. Situated only minutes from Old Town and door-to-door with local business centers, Hotel Valdemars is the optimal choice for your visit in Riga, whether it is for business or leisure. The hotel also features a delicious restaurant, full serviced conference and banquet possibilities. Single: €69, Double: €95, Jr. Suite: €102, Suite: €125, Royal Suite: €449. K. Valdemara iela 23, B-2. Tel: 6733 4462. Fax: 733 3001.

SPA HOTELs Hotel Jūrmala Spa To get that Scandinavian spa feeling you don't have to travel north. At the seaside resort of Jurmala you will find Hotel Jurmala Spa. They have replicated the care and effectiveness of the Scandinavian spa experience. With its high attention to detail, the whole place oozes wellness with many spa procedures to choose from. Natural materials are used whenever possible throughout, creating a truly relaxing interior. Most rooms have a vast view of Jurmala and the surrounding seaside area, and all rooms are non-smoking. Most rooms have wooden floors and splendid large stone tiles in the bathrooms. Hotel Jurmala Spa - Jomas 47/49, Majori, Jūrmala, Tel: 6778 4415 Standard €71 - 80, twin de lux €115, superior LUX €340. Spa packages are also available check: www.hoteljurmala.lv monthly specials. TB Palace Hotel & SPA More than just a hotel, TB Palace Hotel & Spa offers the guest the luxury of all that is exclusive. The spa center has only four suites, but complete attention is given to the well-appointed rooms and guests. The spa center offers foreign-trained medical professionals who will guarantee your privacy, offering their sought-after knowledge. Some of the treatments on offer are the hydrotherapy massage baths and hydrotherapy capsule, which helps relieve stress and eases the mind and body. Whatever your pleasure, they will accommodate your needs. Pilsoņu 8, Jūrmala. Tel: 6714 7094. Well-appointed suites starting at €300.

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Essential info Emergency numbers For all emergency cases call – 112 Electricity The electrical current is 220 volts AC, 50Hz. Bring European plugs. Time Greenwich Mean Time: +2 (+3 in summer)

Italy Teâtra 9, Tel: 6721 6069, Fax: 6721 6084

Austria Elizabetes 15, Tel: 6721 6125 , Fax: 6721 4401

Japan Valdemâra 21, Tel: 6781 2001, Fax: 6781 2004

Azerbaijan Raiòa 3 -1, Tel: 6714 2889, Fax: 6714 2896

Kazakhstan Kaïíu 15, Tel: 6750 7384, Fax: 6750 7385

Belarus Jçzusbaznîcas 12, Tel: 6732 5321, Fax: 6732 2891

Lithuania Rûpniecîbas 24, Tel: 6732 1519, Fax: 6732 1589

Belgium Alberta 13, Tel: 6711 4852, Fax: 6711 4855

Mexico Pulkveža Brieža 8-1, Tel: 6750 5000, Fax: 6750 5001

Brazil P. Brieža 7D – 628. tel.: 67772307, Fax: 6777 2332

Moldova Basteja blvd 14, Tel: 6735 9160

Bulgaria Doma laukums 1, tel: 67211776

Netherlands Toròa 4-1a, Tel: 6732 6147, Fax: 6732 6151

Canada Baznîcas 20/22, Tel: 6781 3945, Fax: 6781 3960

Norway Zirgu 14, Tel: 6781 4100, Fax: 6781 4108

Chile Baznîcas 8, Tel/Fax: 6728 2319

Poland Mednieku 6b, Tel: 6703 1500, Fax: 6703 1549

China Ganîbu dambis 5, Tel: 6735 7023, Fax: 6735 7025

Portugal Balasta Dambis 60 ,Ogïu iela, Íîpsala, Tel: 6782 1924, Fax: 6782 1931

Czech Republic Elizabetes 29a, Tel: 6721 7814, Fax: 6721 7821 Denmark Pils 11, Tel: 6722 6210, Fax: 6782 0234 Estonia Skolas 13, Tel: 6781 2020, Fax: 6781 2029 Representation of the European Commission in Latvia 28 Aspâzijas blvd, Tel: 6708 5400, Fax: 6708 5448

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Public holIdays January 1 New Year’s Day March 21-24 Easter May 1 Labor Day June 23-24 Summer Solstice November 18 Proclamation Day of the Republic of Latvia December 24-26 Christmas December 31 New Year's Eve

Australia Tomsona 33-1, Tel: 6722 4251 , Fax: 6722 4249

Columbia Mârupes 4, Tel/Fax: 67325623

Geography Area: 64,589 km2 Highest point: Gaiziòkalns — 311.5 m Largest lake: Lubânas — 82 km2 Longest river: Daugava — 1,020 km Population Latvia: 2,270,700 Riga Population: 790,000 Daugavpils: 117,000 Liepâja: 97,000 Jelgava: 71,000

Romania Brîvîbas 97, Tel: 6704 3266, Fax: 6704 3267 Russia Antonijas 2, Tel: 6733 2151, Fax: 6783 0209 Slovakia Smilšu 8, Tel: 6781 4280, Fax: 6781 4290 Spain Elizabetes 11, Tel: 6732 0281, Fax: 6732 5005 Sri Lanka Visbijas prospekts 7, Tel: 6730 3090, Fax: 6730 3091

Finland Kalpaka blvd. 1, Tel: 6707 8800, Fax: 6707 8814

Sweden Pumpura 8, Tel: 6768 6600, Fax: 6768 6601

France Raiòa blvd 9, Tel: 6703 6600, Fax: 6703 6616

Switzerland Elizabetes 2, Tel: 6733 8351, Fax: 6733 8354

Germany Raiòa blvd 13, Tel: 6708 5100, Fax: 6708 5148

Taiwan Elizabetes 2a, Tel: 6732 1166, Fax: 6732 3268

Georgia Raiòa blvd 3, tel: 6722 5812

Turkey Pumpura 2, Tel: 6782 1600, Fax: 6732 0334

Greece Elizabetes 11-5, Tel: 6735 6345, Fax: 6735 6351

Ukraine Kalpaka 3, Tel: 6724 3082, Fax: 6732 5583

Hungary Alberta 4, Tel: 6721 7500, Fax 6782 1787

United Kingdom Alunâna 5, Tel: 6777 4700, Fax: 777 4707

Iceland Valdemâra 21, Tel: 6703 5383, Fax: 6703 5252

Uruguay Ulmaòa gatve 2, Tel: 6762 2746,

Ireland Alberta 13, Tel: 6703 9370, Fax: 6703 9371

USA Raiòa bulv. 7, Tel: 6703 6200, Fax: 6782 0047

Israel Elizabetes 2, Tel: 6732 0739, Fax: 6783 017

Uzbekistan Elizabetes 11-11, Tel: 6732 2424, Fax: 6732 2346

March

2009

Not feeling well? Maybe someone from our short list of recommended English speaking specialists might help. If it's an emergency, call an ambulance. Most of the dispatchers speak broken English. 24hr Pharmacy Old Town location: Rîgas Vecpilsçta aptieka Audçju 20 Tel.: 6722 3826 General practitioner Dr. Tirans Bruòinieku iela 67 Tel.: 6731 5584 Dentist Dr. Valdis Vanags Cçsu 31. k2 Tel.: 6722 0735 Dentist Dr. Jelena Saleniece Kr. Valdemâra 77-9 Tel.: 2919 1576 ChildREN’s Doctor Dr. Anda Kariòa Skolas iela 2 Tel.: 6724 0202 Eye Doctor American Eye Center Tallinas iela 93 Tel.: 6727 2257 Gynaecologist Dr. Dace Matule Stabu iela 52A-3 Tel.: 6729 9896 Back Specialist Mugurkaula problçmu centrs K.Barona 117-44 Tel.: 6784 7100 Pauls Stradins Clinical University Hospital Pilsonu 13 Tel.: 6706 9602

The

Insider

ideas how to do business in latvia

news page 40

Jurmala: Real estate up or down

Investment in Latvia & lithuania page 45

page 42

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2009.03.30. 10:51:18

Number of 40 Baltic transit passengers increasing

Banking sector stable, but with 70% lower profit latvia’s banking sector operated with a small profit in januarry 2009, according to irena krumane,

head of the Financial and Capital Market Commission. The country’s banks earned €11.4 million that month, which is 70 percent less then in the same month the year before. Krumane stressed that banking sector in Latvia was stable. Commenting on this latest data from the banking sector, she drew attention to the fact that the total amount of loans issued in January increased slightly, by 0.2 percent, but that the volume of deposits decreased by 2 percent, or €13.7 billion, from the end of 2008. That could be explained, she said, by the current financial situation and the increasing number of unemployed people in Latvia.

the number of passengers traveling from vilnius and tallinn to riga and then on to final destinations in europe and Asia during the early part of this year increased

several times over, reports the Latvian national airline airBaltic. The most popular route in January in terms of passenger numbers was from Vilnius to Riga with 12,922 passengers, nearly five times more than was registered in January 2008. Thanks to its transit services, airBaltic has also increased its overall passenger numbers. In January 2009, it carried 156,688 passengers on flights from Riga Inthernational Airport. The number of transit passengers passing through the airport rose by nearly six times in comparison to the same month last year, to 74,324 from just 13,149 in January 2008.

New spa CEsu Alus wins complex to be internationally unveiled in Riga approved certificate a 5-star spa complex was opened in central riga at the beginning of march 2009. the project of the reval hotel latvia, it will operate under the well-known British

brand name ESPA. Located in a beautifully renovated Art Nouveau building on Baznicas Street, which was made part of the Reval Hotel Latvia’s complex of buildings, it will be the very first 5-star ESPA spa complex of such high volume in the Baltic. ESPA Riga Marketing Director Evija Segleniece told RigaNOW! that the complex will house three swimming pools, a gym, several saunas, a «spa cafe», a bar, manicure, pedicure and make-up studios, and premises for a wide variety of spa treatments. Riga was chosen as the location for the new spa because the company sees large growth potential in the Baltic market.

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the latvian brewery cesu alus has obtained all the requirements of the brc global standard for food safety and achieved the quality certificate’s highest level. According to data provided by the brew-

ery, BRC Global Food Safety Standards are used to evaluate manufacturers’ quality levels. These days the majority of UK, European and global retailers only consider doing business with suppliers who have gained global standard certification. What is interesting is that Cesu Alus was the first company in Latvia to receive this certificate, back in 2006, but this year the company went through the certification procedure once again to meet even higher standards. The Cesu Alus joint-stock company is one of the biggest investment projects in Northeastern Latvia and is one of the most state-of-the-art breweries in the Baltic region.

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the insider real estate

48 42

− JUrmala:

Real Estate Up or Down?

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Buffeted by economic turmoil in the world and in the region, the Baltic real estate scene has transformed itself from a fast-moving seller’s paradise to a buyer’s market. In short, prices are down and supply is high. To find out more about the current situation in the real estate market in the Latvian seaside resort town of Jūrmala, RigaNOW! met Alexander Basharin, not only the president of the leading real estate development company Interhaus Ltd, but also a passionate fan of the town.

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Our country needs common vision, where government, city and people are trying to reach the same target – Is Jūrmala a classic resort city in your opinion?

– Jūrmala has always positioned itself as a health resort, especially during the 70s and 80s when it was a popul�� ar and prestigious vacation spot for citizens of the USSR. Jūrmala is relatively close to the Latvian capital as well as being near the airport, and there are wide options for entertainment within easy reach – let’s say there are a lot of casinos in Riga, there’s the chance to go for boat rides, and so on. You can take a ferry cruise from Riga to Stockholm and back. There’s a long list of things to do compared to Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania, or Tallinn in Estonia. Neither of these neighboring countries have a resort with such a long beach as Jūrmala. When tourists from Moscow come here they’re surprised there are no traffic jams. When I went to the Italian resort of Terracina last year on a business trip they asked me how long the beach in Jūrmala was. I said 33 km. They were stunned and said – you are really lucky, our beach is 11 times shorter, just 3 km, and it’s overcrowded with casinos. Of course at the moment we can feel the impact of the current economic situation all around the Baltics and in Jūrmala too, but there are new projects we are working on. These shouldn’t be stopped. An example is the reconstruction of a sanatorium in Jaunķemeri. For many years, Dr. Mihails Malkiels has been making detailed research into the local mud’s positive impact on human health. So many tourists are going there from places like Israel or the countries of the CIS. – What are the reasons they are coming here?

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– Pensioners from Israel come because of the mild climate in summer, the fresh sea air, the good levels of iodine in the sea water. There is a wonderful concert hall and a lot of people come for concerts in the summer season. Every year the popular New Wave festival is organized in Jūrmala for young singers. Of course, there are great options for spa procedures at the resort’s spa hotels and a few projects for new hotels are pending at the moment. – Do you agree that Jūrmala stopped developing after the collapse of the Soviet Union?

– Tourism should be supported by state-financed marketing activities. I think that the process of obtaining a visa is too difficult, with too much bureaucracy involved. Those who can afford to travel often decide that they’d rather go to other countries like Turkey or Cyprus. But there have been good developments that have drawn in more tourists, like joining the European Union in 2004. Despite the fact that the current political situation with our eastern neighbors is unfavorable, a lot of Muscovites still have wonderful memories of Jūrmala and some are happily buying up property here. Everyone wants to own a property near the sea. We have pine forests, a mild climate and a lot of places for active recreation. In the summer hotels are full and sanatoriums fill up quickly too. – Do you think that Jūrmala has been able to reorient itself to the western customer?

– There are a lot of young people who are coming here for the first time – not just those nostalgic tourists who miss the go�� od old days. Last year there was a beach football tournament that was part of a world tournament. A lot of

Alexander Basharin President of Interhaus Ltd. people came to Latvia for the very first time, from China, Japan and elsewhere. Our entire beach was like a big stadium. It’s important that our beach flies the Blue Flag, the symbol of a clean environment. Even though recent summers have been good for Jūrmala, we still compare them to the times back in the Soviet era when the beach was so overcrowded there was no space even to drop an apple. My opinion is that we should open the borders. Right now, tourism is an industry that could attract money into the country. I don’t see a real danger to our country if we open the borders. The government should finally understand how deeply entrenched we are in the current crisis and that we have to think about the future. If there are problems we

should solve them, not hide them in the corner. – What is your vision on how to attract more tourists to Jūrmala?

– The best idea is to be friendlier with our closest neighbors and attract new investors to the resort. Our company consistently cooperates with Jūrmala City Council because of the projects we are developing in the town. Every new project brings new money to the city, provides new jobs, attracts tourists. It’s nonsense to expect tourists to come to a place where old, half-ruined buildings stand everywhere. We want to renovate these historically charming buildings, but the council is not always as supportive as we would like them to be. – Is it true that Interhaus Ltd was the first company to start

2009.03.30. 10:52:17

the insider real estate

offering its customers apartments in buildings constructed according to European standards?

about economics not politics – the best solution would be to open the border with Russia. – Maybe Interhaus would like to open a hotel?

– I was working in Germany before, and I saw the level of quality of the buildings there. The first building we created with European standards was built in 2000. In the eight years since, we have developed six or seven capacious real estate projects. We cooperate with the best architects, such

– At the moment we are developing a small project in Melluži with about 20 rooms on the very coast of the sea and we are planning another project by the Lielupe riverside. We are also working on the reconstruction of the historical Lido restaurant located in the very centre of Jūrmala. After reconstruction it will be an exclusive threestorey guest house, casino, restaurant, tea pavilion and open terrace.

If there are problems we should solve them, not hide them in the corner as Zane Kalinka from the company Cubs, also the company Sarma & Norde and the famous architect Andis Sīlis. The few projects we haven’t yet developed are still in the planning stage due to the bureaucracy. That’s the main reason why we started our transit business; I would like to say we were forced to do that. I think it’s a great advantage that in Latvia we have two ice-free harbors, as well as good railway infrastructure that we can use, because we cooperate with Russia, Belarus and Kazakhstan and are developing projects in Siberia. – What are the changes you have seen in the cost of property in Jūrmala?

– In the last years of the Soviet era, building prices dropped by 50 percent, but for those properties located on the coast changes have not been so noticeable. The explanation is simple – there are not that many projects out

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– Until your casino opens, why are there no casinos in Jūrmala at the moment?

– However we are developers and we don’t specialize in managing casinos. We are currently searching for partners who would like to cooperate with us on this. – Don’t you think that one of the problems facing Jūrmala is that it is so seasonal?

there. My personal opinion is that changes in price for those luxurious estates on the seafront will not be so dramatic because the number of offers are not significant. Nobody expected such dramatic changes in the real estate market where prices would fall so dramatically. And nobody knows what kind of changes can come in the future. Absolutely anything is possible. But I think that now is the right time to buy real estate; I don’t believe that prices will go any lower. – It’s no secret that many of us have a dream to live near the sea. Do you think that Jūrmala can compete in this segment with Cyprus or Croatia?

– I believe the level of prices is quite similar. I have friends who own properties in different countries, in Spain, here in Jūrmala, a flat in Moscow and in Germany – you see, it’s trendy not to stay in one country. We

can reach virtually any city in one or two hours. But I’m sure everybody would love to live near the sea. It’s easy to see – the level of demand is quite high and I haven’t heard a single regret from those who have bought property here. Property in Jūrmala is a great alternative to Cyprus or Croatia, France or Spain. Especially for older people, because the climate is really good. I would like to stress that we are always open to any kind of cooperation. – Why do you think international hotel chains don’t open hotels here in Jūrmala?

– It requires big capital investments to make the first steps. I think there is a lack of skilled personnel and altogether it’s a big risk knowing you’ll have the sheer volumes to fill a large hotel all year round. And at the current situation – why open a hotel if tourists are not coming? The situation requires that we should think

– First of all we should restore the concert hall so it can host events both in summer and in winter. You know, so many Russian artists love to come to perform here in Jūrmala, so we should develop our infrastructure first.

– Do you believe that Jūrmala will one day become an internationally known resort?

– Yes, I do believe that. There is such a great climate, nature, medical services of the highest caliber – all we’re missing is serious investors. Russia is a significant neighbor; Moscow can be reached in one hour, and the people here in Jūrmala speak Russian. To earn together, we should work together. Our country needs common vision, where government, city and people are trying to reach the same target. The city council should respect us businessmen who, while paying our taxes, also have the power to attract money to the city. Jūrmala, with its fine climate, unspoiled nature, medicine, good recreational possibilities, tennis and golf clubs, has truly great prospects.

2009.03.30. 10:52:20

the insider investments

Investment now in Latvia & in Lithuania

by Jorgen Johansson

Former Latvia’s Transport Minister Ainars Slesers recently likened the global financial crisis to World War III, saying that casualties of war are going bankrupt all over the world. Latvia and its southern neighbor Lithuania are also battling for economic survival. Latvia was forced to seek help from the International Monetary Fund, while Lithuania has admitted that it too could start negotiations. As in all wars there will be winners and losers.With investments as ammunition, both Latvia and Lithuania may soon be ripe for the taking, but finding specific targets may prove difficult.

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While celebrations in the Baltics were still in full swing in 1991 following independence regained from Soviet rule, western banks and investors began predicting that the previously sealed off region would emerge like the tiger economies of Europe. International companies positioned themselves in various industries and rapidly gained dominant market shares. The timber industry, banking, real estate and retail were areas where foreigners invested heavily and started to thrive. Sadly, the glory days of gross domestic growth figures exceeding 10 percent are now over and may never return. Late last year the Latvian Central Statistics Bureau admitted that they had been using the wrong methodology for calculating GDP growth for the past few years. This forced the former government to revise the budget for 2009 for a third time. At the time of writing it was not yet clear by how much the incoming government would have to cut spending, but an analyst at Swedbank predicted that it could be as much as LVL 500 million (EUR 715 million). The situation in Lithuania is starting to take on similarities to that of its northern neighbor Latvia. Recently the Lithuanian head of the country’s central bank, Reinoldijus Sarkinas, told the parliament that it would be wise to put together a deal with the International Monetary Fund “in case something happens and we need to arrange a loan fast and on better terms than we are currently using to borrow from commercial banks.” Late last year the Latvian economy was saved by an IMF spearheaded loan together with the European Union and a couple of Scandinavian central banks. Roughly EUR 7.5 billion will be injected into the economy over the coming months to stabilize the banking sector and help the government plug budget deficits.

Meanwhile, the Latvian real estate market has dropped significantly over the last 18 months and analysts are saying that it will still take some time before prices hit bottom. Lithuania has a similar situation, where newly built residential properties slumped 21 percent last year. “The party has ended for residential developers in Vilnius, with prices for newly built units falling by 21 percent to as low as EUR 1,070 per sq m in some new suburban schemes. The average price range for a new suburban flat at the beginning of 2009 was EUR 1,070-1,950 per sq m,” Peter Cage Morris, managing director of the real estate company Ober-Haus in Lithuania, said in a recent statement. Ober-Haus forecasts that from 2,000 to 3,000 new units will be delivered in 2009, the lowest level in six years, and will stay at that level through 2010. The current economic and financial crisis has adversely affected two-thirds of Lithuania’s construction industry, according to the head of the country’s Real Estate Association. Robertas Dargis said he could not provide exact figures as to what percentage of construction projects had been put on hold, but judging from data for building material sales the decline could amount to some 70 percent. “It seems that the decline in the construction industry will stop at those two-thirds,” he said. The construction industry in Latvia has virtually come to a grinding halt after several years of booming growth. However, with crisis comes opportunities. Indrek Pallo, regional manager for UK Trade & Investments, told The Insider that even though the Baltic economies have been affected in a negative way, the fundamentals for investments are still in place.

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the insider investments

Antanas Valionis

Lithuania’s ambassador to Latvia

The Bank of Lithuania has takensteps to release substantial resources to commercial banks for lending. “The business environment has not changed in the Baltics. The fundamentals are still there. All three economies are open and fairly transparent, the people work hard, and the business culture is quite close to that in western countries,” Pallo said. This provides certain opportunities and recommendations as far as investment advice is concerned, he added. “If we look at net values of companies in the Baltics they are quite low, providing some good opportunities at the moment. That is, of course, if an investor would be interested in that kind of information,” Pallo said. Rigid financing Lithuania, the biggest country in the Baltics, saw its GDP growth cool to just 3.2 percent in 2008 after seven years of growth above 7 percent. There is a consensus among analysts that the economy will continue to cool in 2009 and predictions set GDP at -4.8 percent. Still, Lithuania’s ambassador to Latvia, Antanas Valionis, describes his country as an excellent place to invest when it comes to the aforementioned fundamentals for an investment climate, but adds that there are several factors in the economy that are worrying. “According to the experts, in the ambience of the current global crisis, it would be unrealistic to hope for a huge inflow of investments in the nearest future. The Bank of Lithuania declared already in October 2008 that the growth of

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general investments beconditions in Lithuacame negative earlier nia,” Valionis said. “Nothan had been predicttably the bulk of EU ed. Primarily investstructural funds are bements have been shrinking directed to the iming in construction and plementation of the Actransportation, insofar as tion Plan for Economthe transportation sector ic Growth, which amid is colliding with the shift other principal goals is of financing terms to beset to attract direct foring more rigid,” he told eign investments and The Insider. improve the business The Lithuanian governenvironment.” ment is planning to get A part of the plan forethe country out of the sees the preparation of slump and back on its 600 hectares of new feet by investing in exterritories for investports, while hoping that ments. There are also foreign investments plans to allocate monwill pick up at the same ey from EU structurtime. Prime Minister Anal funds to attract fordrius Kubilius said reeign direct investments. Antanas Valionis cently that his nation The government is priLithuanian Ambasador to Latvia has to “hunt” for investoritizing the stimulation ments now. of innovation, scientific This has lead the government to decide to set studies and technological development. up two new agencies, Invest in Lithuania and “The government pursues the development The Export Council, the hope being that they of transportation, energy supply and informawill help promote exports and facilitate investtion networks in order to approach the Euroment promotion more efficiently. pean and world markets and this should ben“As regards the EU’s structural funding it efit both national and foreign investors,” Valioshould be stressed that one of the most impornis said. tant objectives for the use of these funds is reThe biggest investors in Lithuania are Sweden lated to the fast improvement of investment (14.1 percent), Poland (12.9 percent), Den-

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The biggest investors in Lithuania in 2008 14,1%

Sweden

47 12,9%

Poland

11,1%

10,3%

Denmark

Russia

The biggest investors in Latvia in 2008 15%

14%

Estonia

Sweeden

Germany

Denmark

Source: Investment and Development Agency of Latvia

mark (11.1 percent), Russia (10.3 percent), Germany (8.7 percent), Estonia (6.7 percent), Latvia (5.1 percent), Finland (5 percent) and Netherlands (4.5 percent). About a third of all foreign investments in Lithuania have been concentrated in manufacturing while the second biggest field is financial intermediation. Other areas of investments include transportation, storage, communication, real estate and the energy sector. Credit crunch hampering Banks all over the world serve as facilitators for investments, but the current global credit squeeze is putting the brakes on lending, which in turn slows down investment flows. Lending rates in both Latvia and Lithuania have fallen sharply over the past few quarters. In Latvia, lending slowed down to the point where the Central Bank was forced to lower the mandatory cash reserve requirements for commercial banks in order to stimulate lending. After its latest council meeting, the Latvian Central Bank concluded in a statement that it was doing all it could to help boost money availability on the market. “Taking into account the rapid slowdown in lending and the downturn in the economy, the Bank of Latvia has taken several steps to reduce the reserve requirement, thereby releasing a substantial amount of resources available to commercial banks for lending to the econ-

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omy,” the Bank of Latvia said in a statement. “The inflow of these resources into the economy has been taking place too slowly, however.” In Lithuania, lending has also slowed drastically, but the banking sector is still regarded as having sufficient liquidity to assure the safety of its performance. “While tightening the evaluation of risks and debtor’s financial status, the portfolio of issued loans has been diminishing lately and investments have been growing more slowly,” Valionis said. In Latvia, foreign direct investments fell in the first quarter of last year to 7.6 percent of GDP, 7.4 percent of GDP in the second quarter and 5.1 percent of GDP in the third quarter. Banks in Latvia took a serious hit on their revenues in 2008, which plummeted by a staggering 79 percent or LVL 294 million, year-onyear. Still, the banking sector as a whole ended with a LVL 78 million profit. Meanwhile, many companies and households in all three Baltic countries are facing problems in meeting their loan payments. Since the last quarter of 2008, the number and the volumes of overdue loans have grown very rapidly and will continue to grow throughout 2009. Beware of pitfalls There are several watchdogs in Latvia keeping a close eye on government policymaking

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56 48

Andris laucins Chairman of the board of the Foreign Investors Council in Latvia and policy implementation. One of these is the Foreign Investors Council in Latvia, an organization that represents roughly a billion euro’s worth of investments. Its chairman, Andris Laucins, has raised concerns regarding investing in Latvia, saying that although investments are always welcome, the state administration is sometimes lacking in adequate laws to keep up with the pace of investments. “According to information from FICIL members, legislation and bureaucratic practices lack the necessary level of predictability and transparency, thus significantly slowing the business development process,” he said, adding that this was of particular concern in the implementation of large-scale investment projects. FICIL is looking at many areas of Latvian governance and points at several where there is much room for improvement. For example, the organization would like to see improved territorial planning, more predictable construction processes, the development of a sustainable labor supply, better solved energy efficiency issues and improvement to the taxation system. In its infancy, FICIL worked closely with the government and other governmental institutions on development plans and implementation to improve the investment climate in the country. As time went by Latvia has become a member of several international organizations such as the European Union, NATO and the World Trade Organization, each membership cementing yet another milestone as testament

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to Latvia’s development to becoming a fully developed economy. With the small nation’s steady progress, the role of FICIL changed as well. In the last couple of years the organization has been working more and more as a consultant for Latvia’s future strategy and vision. Each year, together with the Latvian Investment and Development Agency, FICIL presents an action plan on how to improve the business environment. Still, as far as investment opportunities go there seem to be a noticeable lack thereof. Laucins would not offer any specific example of investment opportunities in Latvia, but instead gave a word of caution to potential investors. “Investors have to know the markets they are investing in, nowadays more than ever. Investment strategy during the crisis should follow market rules rather than let emotions take over,” he said, adding that he was sure Latvia would become a productive country and continue to offer great freedom and opportunity involving an innovative and resilient workforce. Alf Vanags, director of the Baltic Independent Center for Economic Policy Studies, told The Insider that there are always opportunities to invest money, but that it was important to be physically present in the country and look around. “I would say that in the medium term there will be investment opportunities in Latvia. With unemployment on the rise we will soon have a massively cheap labor force and if all goes well we should also have the advantage of a devalued currency. There are always opportunities, but it’s hard to be specific. I would personally avoid the real estate market. But the most important thing is to come here and see with one’s own eyes what’s going on here and not be fooled by what people say,” Vanags said. Political turmoil Latvia has never been famous for long lasting governments with broad visions for the future of the country. At the time of writing, Prime Minister Ivars Godmanis had just resigned from office prompting negotiations over who will replace him. Fortunately, the frequent changes in government have not lead to any major changes in policy. Still, business frowns on unpredictable circumstances created when political decision makers can’t see eye to eye. FICIL would like to see a change in attitude among politicians when it comes to responsible governing. “Latvia needs consistency in decision making, predictability, transparency and effectiveness in state administration,” Laucins said. He added that Latvia needs a business environment where productivity is increasingly based on new ideas and the application of world-class

knowledge, not simply in investment in modern production capacities. Lithuania has also had its fair share of political dramas over the last year, but the situation has stabilized somewhat after a minority government was replaced by a four-party coalition with a majority in parliament. Still, there is a chance that an upcoming presidential election could raise tensions. Looking ahead Both Latvia and Lithuania will continue to worsen economically in 2009 as the financial crisis takes its toll on smaller countries. It is predicted that unemployment will continue to rise while the cost of living will remain high before finally subsiding. Inflation, which has been a severe problem for Latvia – and just ever so slightly kept Lithuania from joining the euro zone last year – will follow its current trend and decrease as retail consumption declines. This will in turn also help to narrow the two countries’ current account deficits. Exports in both countries are also slowing at a rather rapid pace while imports are slowing too, just not as fast. One analyst in the commercial banking sector predicts that the trade imbalance will remain in the future although the gap is expected to close. As a result of the slowdown more and more companies will file for bankruptcy. Already in Riga many of the main streets are lined with vacated retail premises and there are no signs of the trend stopping. In some ways, the Baltic countries turned into the tiger economies that westerners were hoping for after the Soviet Union’s collapse, but instead of staying hungry and constantly on the prowl they bit off a little more than they could chew. The economic tsunami sweeping the planet is felling nation after nation. More and more countries will seek foreign assistance in the form of rescue packages from the IMF, the World Bank and other bodies or nations. “Whether we like it or not, the global economic crisis is hitting most businesses,” Laucins said. “The winners are those who have management boards with experience enough to deal with downturn. Also, having free capital to capture today’s opportunities will be on the upside of the current wave. The losers are those who have already worked inefficiently, had low productivity and will continue to rely on the protectionist policies of the government.” Like former Latvian Transport Minister Ainars Slesers put it, the global financial crisis is like World War III. There will be winners and there will be casualties. But investments in the region will contribute to determining the faith of these starving tigers. I

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