CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT BRION

97-99 points

Neal Martin, Vinous

A very refined bouquet with mineral-driven dark berry fruit, hints of Earl Grey and freshly-rolled tobacco, focused with exquisite delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins that still provide the backbone to what is the most elegant La Missions that I have tasted at this stage. It is harmonious & silky toward its extremely persistent finish. At the moment, it has got its nose just in front of its First Growth sibling… at least at the moment. For sure, it’s going to be one of the standouts of the 2022 vintage.

It was only in 1983 that La Mission Haut Brion was bought by the owners of neighbouring Haut Brion, but the two properties have been linked since the year 1540. This is a wine that I would make a First Growth if the 1855 classification were not only to re-drawn, but also expanded outside of the Médoc. The wine itself tends to be dense in structure, full of intense brambly fruits and serious tannins giving ageability, just as with its sibling estate, but often shows more floral aromatics and overall grace.

Tasting at La Mission Haut Brion is one of the treats of en primeur week, not just because of the beautiful surroundings of the château but because or the rare opportunity to try two goliaths side-byside in La Mission Haut Brion and First Growth, Haut Brion.

One of the remarkable things about the vineyards of La Mission is that they are very much in an urban landscape, hugging a main road on one side, and the TGV line on the other. As such, ambient temperatures in the walled vineyard tend to be a touch higher than in estates in the appellation. The challenge in a warm year like 2022 is ensuring that the extra temperature doesn’t negatively impact the wine, which thankfully it did not. Choosing between La Mission Haut Brion and Haut Brion is near impossible in this vintage, both are must buys if you can get your hands on them, but for me La Mission is a nose ahead, just.