1 minute read
CHÂTEAU CHEVAL BLANC
98-100 points
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Neal Martin, Vinous
The 2022 Cheval Blanc is a lucid, deep purple colour. With profound intensity on the nose, this Cheval offers blackcurrant, blue fruit, iris petals, crushed stone and incense aromas. It is blessed with breath-taking delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with seamless tannins. There is palpable verticality in the Cheval, almost “correct” and “strict”, yet endowed with stunning depth & complexity. The Cabernets are clearly in the driving seat here and lend it Left Bank allure. Consequently, while it is not the most flamboyant Cheval Blanc I have tasted at this stage, it constitutes a wine for those serious about their Bordeaux. It will give the same satisfaction as when you finish reading a literary masterpiece.
Historically, Cheval Blanc has always been a leading estate in St-Emilion, dating back at least to the 16th century, and enlarged after the French Revolution by plots purchased from neighbouring Ch. Figeac. The focus on aromatics –and particularly with Merlot on gravel – also explains why picking dates tend to be early for Cheval. Its easily one of the greatest wines of the region although it doesn’t always receive the same revered status as Ausone for some reason.
Cheval Blanc, owned by the goliath LVMH group, was once seen as a very good, but ultimately seriously over-priced wine from the Right Bank in Bordeaux. Thankfully, a change in philosophy starting with the 2019 vintage has seen much more attractive pricing, whilst the quality, thankfully, continues to rise.
As if to illustrate how sensible pricing can turn a highly-rated wine into an asset that delivers, that 2019 vintage has already appreciated in value by 32% since release.
Cheval Blanc is my wine of the vintage, and it has everything, from intoxicating aromatics, to confident structure and a seemingly endless finish. Quantities are likely to be small, but this is certainly a wine that everyone should try and get hold of. A second wine (Petit Cheval) was not made in 2022, with all grapes going into the Grand Vin.
