CHÂTEAU LES CARMES HAUT BRION

96-98 points

Neal Martin, Vinous

It is extremely precise on the nose with blackberry, briary, crushed stone and hints of curry leaf. The palate is just beautiful. Sculpted tannins, fine-boned, lending this Les Carmes unerring symmetry and focus. This is loaded with mineral-laden dark berry fruit and feels seamless toward the finish. I am not inclined toward hyperbole, nevertheless, this is the best Les Carmes that Guillaume Pouthier has overseen.

As close as Bordeaux gets to a true urban winery; you can get here on the tram from the city centre. This has been a wine that I have championed for a number of years, and am thrilled to see it gaining ever-wider recognition. In the vineyard is the highest proportion of Cabernet Franc, at 45%, on the Left Bank: this can make it taste a little austere in early years, but gives a wonderful spicy finish and superb ageing ability.

I visited Les Carmes Haut Brion twice in April, to get to know their winemaking philosophy, where sustainability is the driving force. The property was owned by the Carmelites until the French Revolution, hence the ‘Carmes’ in the name.

Once a well-kept secret in Bordeaux, each vintage release is now snapped up in seconds, though prices still hover around £1,000 for twelve bottles: not bad when similarly scored neighbours go for three or four times as much.

I was utterly blown away by the 2022 offering, awarding a potentially perfect 97-100 points and noting, “boysenberry, briar fruit, juniper, wild mint, peony & cedar on the nose. The palate is absolutely extraordinary: cashmere-soft tannins, ripe fruit leads the way, straddling a perfect balance between precision & opulence. The acidity is amazing, especially on the persistent finish"