33 rd annual
FOOD & WINE CLASSIC WEEKEND
WHAT TO EAT! | WHO TO SEE! | WHAT TO DRINK!
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welcome THE 33RD ANNUAL FOOD & WINE CLASSIC IN ASPEN
06 CHEF’S MORSELS 10 FOOD SEMINARS 12 WINE SEMINARS 16 RISE OF THE TV CHEF 19 2015 BEST NEW CHEFS 20 LOCAL BITES 22 MAP/SCHEDULE 26 THE BIG BURN 32 MY ASPEN WITH DANNY MEYER 34 CHEFS CLUB ASPEN & NYC 35 PARTY ON! BEYOND THE CLASSIC 40 HAPPY BIRTHDAY JACQUES 42 CHEERS, MARY!
contributors EDITOR LAUREN GLENDENNING CONCEPTUALISTS LINDA AND KELLY J. HAYES ART DIRECTION & DESIGN MALISA SAMSEL CONTRIBUTING WRITERS AMANDA RAE / ANDREW TRAVERS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER JEREMY WALLACE ACCOUNT MANAGERS ASHTON HEWITT, MAX VADNAIS, AMY LAHA, LOUISE WALKER, TIM KURNOS DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DAVID LAUGHREN
INSPIRATION MARY HAYES (1928-2015)
from the
ASPEN TIMES
Harriet van Horne said it best: “Cooking is like love: it should be entered into with abandon or not at all.” Frankly, wine shouldn’t be any different. Last year was my first experience with the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. I had no idea what I was in for … anecdotes simply don’t do this event justice. This year, I know just what to do and exactly how to do it. Relax a lot, laugh too much, indulge daily, try something(s) different and meet new friends. Welcome to our town – a community as rich in character and culture as it is in beauty and luxury. You’re in for a real treat. And on the off chance that you are here this weekend without a pass to the Food & Wine Classic, when one door closes, another opens. Take the opportunity to visit our world-class restaurants, enjoy some of the world’s best wines on a downtown patio, take a trip to Snowmass for some of the most unique culinary events in the country and mark your calendar so you don’t forget to buy a Food & Wine Classic pass next year. This isn’t like anything you’ve ever experienced. Take it all in. Pace yourself. Savor each moment. And have a little more fun than should be allowed. Cheers! Samantha Johnston, General Manager – The Aspen Times
from the editor
There’s a joke around The Aspen Times office about “the Aspen 15.” The new gals in town tend to pack on the pounds here like they haven’t done since college. I’ve been in Aspen for nine months, and now I get it. If it weren’t for the endless outdoor recreation, I might be writing about the Aspen 30. Thankfully it’s just 15. As I’ve worked my way through town, eating at all of the outstanding restaurants, I’ve come to realize why the Food & Wine Classic is in its 33rd year here and why this weekend is a bright spot on so many calendars. Aspen is a beautiful place. I don’t need to tell you that. But in addition to magnificent mountains, the food and wine culture that exists here is a huge part of our identity. Once the weekend ends and the white tents are gone, Aspen’s passion for food and wine remains. This weekend, at my first Food & Wine Classic, I anticipate feeling a little star-struck as I see and meet the chefs I’ve idolized for so many years. I also plan to eat and drink many delicious things — and I won’t worry about the calories one bit. Welcome to Aspen. We couldn’t be happier to have you all here. Cheers, Lauren Glendenning, Editor
on the cover Jacques Pépin pops a bottle of bubbly on top of Aspen Mountain at the 2014 Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. photo courtesy of food & wine magazine
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quick quips CHEF’S MORSELS
Welcome to summer in Aspen and Snowmass. Our annual Food & Wine Classic weekend brings chefs and winemakers together with those who love what they do. To kick things off, we asked some of our favorite chefs to dish on everything from their fondest food memories to some of their pet peeves. COMPILED BY LAUREN GLENDENNING
TIZIANO GORTAN CHEF/OWNER L’HOSTARIA
What could you eat daily for the rest of your life? For lunch, different greens. For dinner, fresh fish. What’s your favorite country to eat in and why? Italy because there is a story about food. Name the food trend or ingredient you wish chefs would stop following/using. Truffle oil. Which word/words do you wish food writers would stop writing? Complex. Which cooking techniques or ingredients are underutilized? Seasoning. What chef would you like to cook with today? My grandmother.
JOSÉ ANDRÉS
CHEF/OWNER OF THINKFOODGROUP, WITH RESTAURANTS IN WASHINGTON DC, LOS ANGELES, LAS VEGAS, MIAMI AND PUERTO RICO. 2011 JAMES BEARD OUTSTANDING CHEF OF THE YEAR WINNER. What did mom or dad teach you about cooking/food? My parents taught me the importance of each ingredient. Growing up, we cooked a lot at home. At the beginning of the week, the fridge would be overflowing with ingredients, and at the end of the week, it was bare. My mother left no ingredient behind, and it’s that kind of resourcefulness that I consider very important with my work. What’s your favorite dish made by your spouse? I love my wife’s chickpea and spinach stew. It was the only thing she knew how to make when we were first married, and I remember those were very expensive times because she practically spent the whole time speaking to her mother in Spain while making it. Name a menu item you can’t resist ordering. Sea urchin. If it’s on the menu, I’m eating it.
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Name the food trend or ingredient you wish chefs would stop following/using. When restaurants advertise themselves as “farm-totable,” or when they say “we only use the highest quality ingredients.” It’s not that I don’t think we should be cooking this way, but come on people! You should already be doing that, and so it shouldn’t be used as a selling point. Which cooking techniques or ingredients are underutilized? Canning. People are ashamed when they buy canned food in the supermarket, but it was actually the greatest invention that ever happened. It helps us preserve food that would otherwise go bad. You eat ____ at home after a long day of work. A tortilla with fresh vegetables from my garden. What’s your favorite cooking tool/gadget/etc? Chopsticks. They make cooking look so elegant and refined and you can get them for free from your Chinese takeout bag.
RICHARD BLAIS, TOP CHEF SEASON 4 RUNNER UP, TOP CHEF JUDGE, RESTAURANT CHEF/OWNER
MATT ZUBROD, CHEF, ASPEN MOUNTAIN CLUB
What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? Bologna.
What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? I don’t think I’m ashamed of any foods! Maybe tinned black olives, I should have more class than that.
What did mom or dad teach you about cooking/food? Seasonal pickling.
What’s your favorite dish made by your spouse? She has kale chips in the oven right now ... not that ...
What’s your favorite country to eat in and why? France, because I haven’t been to Italy.
Which restaurant in the U.S. are you dying to try but haven’t yet? Anything by Jenn Louis.
Name a menu item you can’t resist ordering. Sweetbreads.
Which word/words do you wish food writers would stop writing? I really don’t want to hear anyone say “it exploded in my mouth” ever again. I also don’t like when people compare dining to sex or sexual experiences – it’s just gross!
Which word/words do you wish food writers would stop writing? Foodie. Who inspires you most as a chef? Guy Savoy. What’s your favorite cooking tool/gadget/etc? Microplane.
You eat ____ at home after a long day of work. Nothing, are you kidding me? I’m on TV, no food past 9 p.m. What’s your favorite cooking tool/gadget/etc.? I’m expected to say liquid nitrogen here, but I’d say a good ol’ spoon with a deep well. What’s your favorite food memory? My honeymoon meal at El Bulli with Jazmin Blais. Or, eating a whole Dover sole at Eataly in NYC with my daughter, Riley Blais, who was only 4 at the moment.
TIZIANO: PHOTO BY JIM PAUSSA; RICHARD: PHOTO BY HEIDI GELDHAUSER; FOOD IMAGES FROM THINKSTOCK
quick quips CHEF’S MORSELS
What did mom or dad teach you about cooking/food? We lived 30 miles from the nearest town so my mom taught me to be resourceful with ingredients. What’s your drink of the moment? My favorite drink of the moment is definitely tequila. I usually take it with soda water or just on the rocks.
CARLA HALL,
CHEF, AUTHOR, TOP CHEF FINALIST, TV HOST What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? Canned cranberry sauce. What did mom or dad teach you about cooking/food? Simple is great and it’s really all about eating together and sharing time with your family. What could you eat daily for the rest of your life? Bread. Warm, hot, freshout-of-the-oven bread. What’s your favorite country to eat in and why? I love Indian food. I want to be able to go to India just to eat all day long because of the textures, spices and aromas - especially in their vegetable dishes. Which restaurant in the U.S. are you dying to try but haven’t yet? Frank Stitt’s Chez FonFon in Birmingham, Alabama. Which cooking techniques or ingredients are underutilized? Technique: poaching. Ingredient: celery. You eat ____ at home after a long day of work. Eggs. Eggs are always my go-to food for a quick meal. What ingredient could you not cook without? Lemons.
KRISTEN KISH
2012 TOP CHEF WINNER AND HOST OF “36 HOURS,” AN UPCOMING SHOW ON THE TRAVEL CHANNEL. What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? Really shitty chicken fingers — the bulk frozen ones you can typically find in a cafeteria. What’s your drink of the moment? I stick to bourbons or High Life beer. Anytime I veer off I end up with a headache the next morning. What’s your favorite dish made by your spouse/ partner? She makes the best farro salads. She is always finding a way for me to eat a bit healthier.
Which cooking techniques or ingredients are underutilized? The pure basics — let’s not forget that without those, you can’t truly cook.
Which restaurant in the U.S. are you dying to try but haven’t yet? Benu in San Francisco. Name a menu item you can’t resist ordering. If I don’t know what something is — a word I haven’t seen before or perhaps a dish I am unfamiliar with — I will order that. Other than that, I’m always curious to see a great restaurant and their chicken. I had a chef once that said, “if you want to see how much a chef cares, order a green salad and the chicken. You will be able to tell right away.”
KATHLEEN CROOK
EXECUTIVE CHEF, GREY LADY IN ASPEN What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? Van de Kamps fish sticks.
CARLA: PHOTO BY GREG POWERS; KATHLEEN & MARK: COURTESY IMAGES; FOOD IMAGES FROM THINKSTOCK
What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? Cheese curds — at least, this week... What did mom or dad teach you about cooking/food? I grew up as a child of the Birdseye generation; it fostered a real appreciation for fresh/local/tasty.
What’s your favorite cooking tool/gadget/etc? A sharp, sharp knife and my favorite spoons. What’s your favorite food memory? Knowing that when my mom, dad, brother, and I all get together at my parents’ house at the same kitchen table we grew up at, we know our seats and don’t even think twice about it. It means, especially now as we have grown up, that we are all together and we are sharing a meal.
MARK FISCHER
EXECUTIVE CHEF/OWNER OF PHAT THAI, TOWN AND THE PULLMAN.
What’s your favorite dish made by your spouse? My favorite thing that my wife makes for me is a roasted chicken and vegetable salad. It has haricot verts, red potatoes, hardboiled egg, spicy nuts, and balsamic vinaigrette. Which restaurant in the U.S. are you dying to try but haven’t yet? I am dying to try HG Supply Company in Dallas, Texas. It is a paleo-inspired concept.
What could you eat daily for the rest of your life? Donuts. What’s your favorite dish made by your spouse? Toast. Usually, a little burnt. Name a menu item you can’t resist ordering. Bone marrow. Name the food trend or ingredient you wish chefs would stop following/using. Anything molecular. Which word/words do you wish food writers would stop writing? Farm-to-table. It’s all farm-to-table.
Name a menu item you can’t resist ordering. I have a hard time resisting foie gras. And it is just because.
What chef would you like to cook with today? Fergus Henderson.
Name the food trend or ingredient you wish chefs would stop following/using. I really wish the food trend of kale would just go away.
What’s your favorite food memory? Stealing fresh corn from fields adjacent to my grandmother’s house.
Which cooking techniques or ingredients are underutilized? I think the technique of curing is very underutilized. You eat ____ at home after a long day of work. After a long day at work I like to fix a griddled peanut butter and jelly sandwich.
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quick quips CHEF’S MORSELS
Who inspires you most as a chef? Jacques Pépin.
CLAUDINE PÉPIN
If I weren’t a chef, I’d be a _______. Skinny person.
AUTHOR OF FAMILY FRENCH COOKBOOK, DAUGHTER OF JACQUES PÉPIN.
What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? I have no shame, but I do love Oreos and bad Ramen. What did mom or dad teach you about cooking/food? Well, my father’s a chef —he’s even written some books and been on TV! He taught me … everything! What could you eat daily for the rest of your life? Bread and butter. What’s your favorite dish made by your spouse? Pasta Carbonara, hanger steak, blueberry pie... Which restaurant in the U.S. are you dying to try but haven’t yet? Mini Bar and Per Se. Name a menu item you can’t resist ordering. Fried chicken. Name the food trend or ingredient you wish chefs would stop following/using. Dust & dirt. Which word/words do you wish food writers would stop writing? Perfect. Nothing is perfect. You eat ____ at home after a long day of work. Wine.
Name the food trend or ingredient you wish chefs would stop following/using. That’s hard. I think every trend has its merits. I mean, that’s how they became a trend, right? It was a great idea at one point that someone came up with and then the world embraced it to the point of overuse. Same thing applies to ingredients. Whether it’s bacon, butter, fish sauce, or whatever, it all started with someone discovering the beauty of a product and it becoming so widely accepted it became overused.
DAVID WANG
What chef would you like to cook with today? Sean Brock, Edward Lee, or Heston Blumenthal.
What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? I’m definitely torn between the greasiest possible Chinese takeout or Del Taco.
What ingredient could you not cook without? That’s a tough one. I’ve been using a lot of pickled components lately. Quite frankly, I think I’m learning to appreciate just how crucial acid is in cooking. I’ve also been really into using teas in my food, too.
CHEF, MEAT & CHEESE RESTAURANT & FARM SHOP IN ASPEN
What did mom or dad teach you about cooking/food? My mom and dad came from very different backgrounds. I think from my mom, it would be creativity with whatever was available in the fridge. From my dad, definitely confidence with flavors. He grew up in a rural farm town in the northern area of China with lots of bold braises, stews and one-pot dishes. What could you eat daily for the rest of your life? Noodles. I don’t care if its ramen, or pho, or dandan, or braised beef. Noodles are my go-to.
CURTIS CAMERON
PASTRY CHEF AT THE LITTLE NELL What dish or foods are you ashamed to love? Top Ramen, I absolutely love ramen and sometimes I will get crazy and add some fresh veggies or a poached egg. What’s your favorite country to eat in and why? Thailand, the food there is amazing; it hits you on every level from the taste and the smell to the varying textures. The clean and light flavors balanced with different levels of spice is something I will never forget. Name the food trend or ingredient you wish chefs would stop following/using. The overuse of Molecular Gastronomy in modern food, it’s a great skill to have in your arsenal of techniques, but it doesn’t interest me in eating 20 courses of chemicals that make something taste or look like something it’s not.
Which cooking techniques or ingredients are underutilized? In Pastry I feel like fresh fruit and vegetables can be overlooked a lot. Fresh fruits can provide so many different flavors and textures depending on the techniques used as well as adding natural sweetness to a dish. Who inspires you most as a chef? My wife, she is such an amazing support system for me and the sacrifice she makes day in and day out for me, so I can pursue my love of food and my career as a Pastry Chef, is second to none. It’s funny because she doesn’t like sweets or chocolate so I am constantly pushing myself to find ways of reducing refined sugar and sweetness in my desserts or pairing chocolate with items that I feel balance the richness to a point where I think I would get her to like it. What ingredient could you not cook without? Salt. Maybe sounds strange for a Pastry Chef but you need salt to taste sweet.
What’s your favorite country to eat in and why? Taiwan. I love street food, and I think Taiwan’s street food scene is phenomenal.
CLAUDINE & CURTIS: COURTESY IMAGES; FOOD IMAGES FROM THINKSTOCK
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seminars FOOD
COOKING BY THE BOOK A trio of food seminars offer recipes for success BY LINDA HAYES
WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN a cookbook that ends up dog-eared and food splattered and one that just takes up space on the shelf? Easy to follow recipes? Photos that make your mouth water? Storytelling? Whether you’re a seasoned chef or a newbie, a home cook or a pro, there’s insight to be found in these seminars by celebrated chef-restaurateur Marcus Samuelsson, James Beard Award-winning pastry chef and Milk Bar owner Christina Tosi and Food & Wine Editor-in-Chief Dana Cowin. Can’t make it? Look for their books in the Grand Tasting tents, or your favorite bookstore. 1. OOPSIE! “MASTERING MY MISTAKES IN THE KITCHEN” WITH DANA COWIN AND DAVID CHANG Food & Wine Editor-in-Chief Dana Cowin spills a previously well-kept secret in her charming (and slightly disarming) new cookbook, “Mastering My Mistakes in the Kitchen.” Her seminar by the same name takes it one step further as she shares anecdotes and takes instruction from David Chang of Momofuku fame on a former culinary fail. As a prelude, we asked Cowin to let us in on the some of the details of her seminar. Here’s what she shared: AT: It’s exciting to see the Editor-in Chief of Food & Wine presenting a seminar. How do you feel about being on the kitchen stage again? DC: I’m thrilled to be sharing a stage with Dave Chang in Aspen. I’ve watched so many demos, I think there’s an extra
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excitement — and anxiety — to actually be cooking in front of the audience. Though, I’m hoping that one of the benefits of doing a book that acknowledges that I’m mistakeprone is that the audience will be forgiving! AT: The seminar is based on your popular new book. Please share a little about the idea behind it and what inspired you to write it. And how did you come to partner with Chang? DC: The genesis of my book, “Mastering My Mistakes in the Kitchen,” was as simple as it was embarrassing. First, the embarrassing part: I’d been Editor-in-Chief of Food & Wine for about 18 years, and always had a bit of a secret. I didn’t know how to cook! I finally decided to learn, and came up with a simple solution that would help both me and future readers. I would ask my star chef friends to help me fix my cooking mistakes. Since publishing the book, I’ve had such a huge response that I’ve kept taking lessons, including humiliating myself in public doing demos with the world’s masters. Dave is one of my favorite people. He’s a great chef who has trained many great cooks, including one of this year’s Best New Chefs, Tim Maslow. I figured he could teach me, too! AT: We’d love to know what you’ll be, um, cooking. Will you give us a hint? DC: Dave and I are cooking eggs. I explained to him how I’ve failed at everything from scrambled eggs to frittatas. He’s ready to come to my rescue. He’ll be doing most of the cooking, and I’ll share stories of my mistakes and ask questions along the way so the audience and I can learn together. In the past when I’ve done these demos, it’s been pretty funny, and educational, too.
“I’m hoping that one of the benefits of doing a book that acknowledges that I’m mistake prone is that the audience will be forgiving!” — Dana Cowin
COURTESY FOOD & WINE MAGAZINE
that she makes on and off the clock, and she touts them as great hostess gifts, too. “Cookies are for every day and every occasion and what’s the alternative — showing up without cookies?” she quips. “Bringing a fruit plate?” No argument there. 3. CASUAL COOKING: MARCUS SAMUELSSON’S “MARCUS OFF DUTY” “I wrote ‘Marcus Off Duty’ to reflect how I love to cook for my friends and family, aside from just professionally in the restaurant kitchen,” says Marcus Samuelsson, celebrated chef and visionary owner of the new Streetbird and popular Red Rooster in NYC’s Harlem. “The book was really meant to get down to the heart of what matters most with food – the memories that are attached to our favorite meals, and what it means to share delicious cooking together in a relaxed and warm environment.” During his seminar, Samuelsson will surely create food memories with recipes that touch heart and soul, as well as the palate. Share them with friends.
2. A TOUCH OF SOMETHING SWEET: CHRISTINA TOSI’S “MILK BAR LIFE: A COOKIE A DAY” Cereal Milk Ice Cream, Compost Cookies, and Crack Pie are just a few of the insanely decadent treats that have turned Christina Tosi’s Milk Bar, sister bakery of the Momofuku Restaurant Group, into a dessert addict’s dream come true. With five Milk Bars popping up around New York since they first opened in 2008 (there’s also one in Toronto and another is soon to hit the scene in D.C.), the release of her second cookbook, “Milk Bar Life,” and a judge’s spot on Fox’s Master Chef, being named 2015 Outstanding Pastry Chef by the James Beard Foundation is simply icing on the cake. Focused largely around Milk Bar Life, Tosi’s seminar will highlight the fun-loving culture of the bakery through sweet and savory recipes, as well as good old-fashioned storytelling. To the delight of the audience, who will hopefully be able to snag a taste, she’ll bake some of her go-to recipes from the book’s ‘A Cookie A Day’ chapter. Salt & Pepper Cookies, Ritz Cookies, and Pickled Strawberry Jam! are all things MARCUS SAMUELSSON GROUP
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seminars WINE
Master Sommelier Bobby Stuckey also is a master runner who finished this year’s Boston Marathon in less than three hours.
SO MUCH WINE, SO LITTLE … OH, YOU KNOW THE REST. In the 33 years since the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen made its debut, much has changed in the world of wine. Sure, Burgundy, Bordeaux, Piedmont and Napa continue to be the cradles of the world’s most sought after wines. But today we are as likely to drink great wines born in places like Margaret River, Central Otago, Rio Negro and Paso Robles as we are the established classics. And the varietals? Perhaps founder Gary Plumley poured a riesling or two in 1983 at the first Aspen Snowmass International Wine Classic, but surely cabernet and chardonnay were the grapes of choice. This year under the tents you can try wines made with exotic grapes like mencía from Spain, or Austrian grüner veltliner and, of course, rosé from all over the world sourced from grenache, cinsault and a host of other grapes. Also changed is that the guys and gals who pour wines have become bold-faced names. Sommeliers are the new rock stars. As chefs have become brands, so too are sommeliers emerging as economic forces. And on the heels of the wine geeks has been the ascension of the bartender, er, mixologist, to celebrity status as well. At this year’s Food & Wine Classic there will be an astounding 50, count ‘em, 50, different seminars devoted to grapes and grains that will be well worth spending your time and sobriety on. Here are few ‘must do’s for your drinking pleasure – all summer long: FRIDAY Wines for IPO Billionaires with Mark Oldman
ON GRAPES AND GRAINS
Friday 10 to 10:45 a.m. at Old Aspen Art Museum Might as well start rich. Oldman is a showman and he will definitely aim to entertain both your mind and palate. The Bloody Mary: Not Just for Brunch with Anthony Bohlinger Friday 2 to 2:45 p.m. at The Little Nell 2
Generous pours of wine and spirits are hallmarks of the Classic BY KELLY J. HAYES
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The wizard from Chefs Club could change the way you drink your Bloodys. A good one to get you up to snuff for the Bloody Bar at Justice Snow’s.
COURTESY FRASCA FOOD AND WINE; INSET PHOTO: COURTESY BOBBY STUCKEY
AndersonRanch arts center 2015 summer series
FEATURED ARTISTS & CONVERSATIONS
explore the work
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ENRIQUE MARTÍNEZ CELAYA THURSDAY, JULY 2
HANK WILLIS THOMAS THURSDAY, JULY 9
ARLENE SHECHET
WEDNESDAY, JULY 15
CONVERSATION with JENNIFER & DAVID STOCKMAN moderated by WALTER ISAACSON THURSDAY, JULY 16
CONVERSATION with FRANK STELLA moderated by DR. JEFFREY GROVE TUESDAY, JULY 21
NATIONAL COUNCIL SPECIAL EVENT* LISA PHILLIPS in conversation with TREVOR PAGLEN & RYAN TRECARTIN THURSDAY, JULY 23
RYAN TRECARTIN & LIZZIE FITCH THURSDAY, JULY 30
ALEC SOTH
THURSDAY, AUGUST 13
CONVERSATION with McARTHUR BINION moderated by DENNIS SCHOLL 12:30 PM, Schermer Meeting Hall free and public invited (unless otherwise noted) Reservations required, visit andersonranch.org *4:00 PM. To join the National Council, call Hannah Thompson 970/923-3181 x212.
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seminars WINE VINO STRONG
Spain’s Best Cheese and Wine with Laura Werlin & Megan Krigbaum Friday 3:45 to 4:30 p.m. at Paepcke 2 Take your taste buds on a tour of Spain via some of the country’s greatest cheese and wine, paired by “cheezelady” Werlin and F&W’s Krigbaum. SATURDAY The Rosé Revolution with Anthony Giglio Saturday 10 to 10:45 a.m. at Paepcke 2 Anthony goes pink. Expect wines from regions you may not have thought of and grapes you may have never considered would make great rosé. Pinot Noir from Burgundy and Beyond with Paul Grieco Saturday 2 to 2:45 p.m. at Old Aspen Art Museum 2 The Canadian-born New York restaurateur always brings a unique perspective to the game. And this is one tasty game.
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“This may be the best time ever to be drinking California pinot noir.” — Bobby Stuckey Wingin’ It: Winning Wines for Chicken Wings with Josh Wesson Saturday 3:45 to 4:30 p.m. at The Little Nell 1 Wesson and wings. Enough said. SUNDAY Super Summertime Whites with Leslie Sbrocco 10:30 to 11:15 a.m. at Old Aspen Art Museum 1 It’s summertime and the living is easy. Leslie will turn you on to some of the great sippers to enhance the season.
ANDREA PHOTOS COURTESY ANDREA IMMER ROBINSON; BOBBY PHOTOS COURTESY FRASCA FOOD AND WINE
BOBBY STUCKEY So how is your 2015 going? If your name is Bobby Stuckey, pretty darn well. In March, the master sommelier and owner of Boulder’s lauded Frasca Food & Wine accepted Wine Enthusiast magazine’s “Sommelier of the Year” award. In April, he finished the Boston Marathon in 2:57:35. In July, he will expand Pizzeria Locale (the contemporary Neapolitan-style pizza concept he started along with Frasca owner and chef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson and is now backed by Chipotle) beyond Boulder and Denver and into Kansas City. And this month he returns to Aspen, where he once presided over the cellar at The Little Nell, to present a pair of wine seminars on California and Italian wines. “This may be the best time ever to be drinking California Pinot Noir,” Stuckey said when discussing his seminar, “The New California Renaissance.” (Saturday, 10 to 10:45 a.m. at the Limelight) “Lots of producers from the Santa Cruz Mountains to the Russian River to the Santa Rita Hills are turning to original
plantings and making fantastic pinots.” He will be joined on his panel by pinot superstars Jasmine Hirsch (Hirsch Vineyards), Rajat Parr (Sandhi, Domaine de la Cote/Evening Land, etc.) and Ehren Jordan (Failla). As a founder of Frasca, which specializes in cuisine inspired by that of Friuli, Italy, and has received a James Beard Award for the nation’s top wine program, Stuckey is also extremely well versed in the wines of Italy. This year he will pour wines from Tuscany in his seminar, “Sangiovese: Italy’s Greatest Grape.” (Sunday, 10:30 to 11:15 a.m., The Little Nell 1) “The most misunderstood red wine here in America may be sangiovese,” he said. “People look at Tuscany and think it was great forever, and that’s just not true.” Stuckey will explain the social and economic changes that have come to make sangiovese such a star. Oh, and he will pour some great Brunello as well.
THE ONE
ANDREA IMMER ROBINSON A bright light at the Classic each year, Andrea is one of just 23 American women to have achieved the status of Master Sommelier. And you can be sure that those who have followed, or are continuing to follow, her path consider her as both mentor and role model. She is one of the most inspiring members of that esteemed group. This year, Andrea returns to Aspen to pour wines, not from her Napa Valley, California, home, but rather from just over the hill in
Sonoma County. “The Sonoma Superstars seminar will showcase the amazing diversity of wine styles — all at a world class level — that come from Sonoma,” she enthused. “We’ll show elegant Burgundian varietals, as well as collector-worthy wines with bottle age, and a bubbly that’s every bit as classy as a top French Champagne. I can’t wait!” Neither can we.
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trending TV CHEFS
THE RISE OF THE TV CHEF Richard Blais and Kristen Kish became household names on TV before they got to rub elbows with the culinary elite BY ANDREW TRAVERS
A GENERATION AGO, there were a handful of chefs who were household names in America and a few on TV. But the culinary pop-culture descendants of icons such as Julia Child and Jacques Pépin, thanks to the ascendance of The Food Network and competition shows such as “Top Chef,” are many. Each has their own brand, their own unique voice as a public figure, and their own way of using the national spotlight. Chefs Richard Blais and Kristen Kish — both “Top Chef ” winners — reflected recently on life as a celebrity chef. RICHARD BLAIS On a jog down the Rio Grande Trail during the Food & Wine Classic last summer, Richard Blais wandered into the woods and shot a series of Vine videos of him getting lost, in the “Blair Witch Project” tradition. He also posted a Vine video of himself getting an icecream cone from Aspen’s McDonald’s, the restaurant chain where he began his vaunted culinary career (a biographical fact Blais is fond of recalling publicly). At this year’s Classic, Blais — whose restaurants include Atlanta eateries like Flip Burger and San Diego’s Juniper & Ivy — is running a seminar on sandwiches, based loosely on the videos that went out to his thousands of Vine followers, titled “The Blais-Witch project” — a sort of marriage of his role in the kitchen and his life on-screen. Since winning “Top Chef All-Stars” in 2010, Blais has opened new restaurants around the south, authored a James Beard Award-nominated cookbook, launched new TV shows and judged “Top Chef ” (a role he’ll reprise this
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FOOD AND WINE • 2015
“It moved the progress of my career from a staircase to an escalator.” — Richard
Blais
summer for its new California-based season). In short order, he checked off most items on his career bucket list. “It moved the progress of my career from a staircase to an escalator,” says Blais. “It gives me a tremendous amount of exposure, and with that comes responsibility.” Blais quickly began using his public profile for advocacy work, with an eye on obesity and health issues — running the New York City Marathon for charity and spearheading the admirable though little-watched “Cook Your Ass Off ” healthy cooking competition on HLN. “Five years ago, I would have said I don’t want to be the chef that’s out there telling people how to live gluten-free or how to cut fat from their diet,” he says. “But if you can change someone’s life in that regard, it’s amazing.” Blais likens his expanded public role to going from a player to a coach in sports. But, of course, the more time he’s on TV, on social media or doing appearances, the less time he spends in the kitchen. He’s delegated dayto-day operations for restaurants like Juniper & Ivy and the adjacent fastcasual Crack Shack, opening this fall. “The dining room is more my arena than it ever was,” he says. “The further down the road I go of being a TV personality, the more it increases the range I have to cover. When a table wants to say ‘Hi’ and take a picture with me, there are two ways I can go about it. I can say, ‘No, I’m a chef. I’m not here to take pictures,’ and lose a fan. Or I can embrace it. I’ve just embraced it.”
PHOTO BY HEIDI GELDHAUSER
“The biggest component to keeping KRISTEN KISH Attending the Food & Wine Classic was among the experiences Kristen Kish never thought she’d have, but at age 27 she won “Top Chef ” in its 10th season in 2012. “I’d always known about the Classic and said, ‘I wish I could do this,’ but being a cook you don’t have money and you don’t have time,” Kish says. “So it was never going to happen.” A trip to the Classic was part of the winner’s package that year. For her third time around in Aspen, she’s bringing her girlfriend, family and friends to indulge with her. The family vacation at Food & Wine is illustrative of Kish’s approach to her relatively new status as a bold-faced name and recognizable face. Now 31, she’s enjoying the ride and taking it relatively slow. Last year, she left Menton — the Boston restaurant where she served as chef de cuisine — and competed on “Top Chef Duals” while keeping the public’s and the industry’s pressures at a tattooed arm’s length. “When it first happened, and all of these things were thrown at me, my head was spinning,” she recalls. “I was like, ‘Oh, now I have to live up to this expectation and that expectation.’ Thankfully, I had people around me that said, ‘Listen, you’re going to do you. The more you put yourself out there, the more people will have to say about you in a negative way. And that’s OK.’” The recent death by suicide of Chicago’s beloved Homaru Cantu has chefs and the industry thinking and talking about the pressures and pitfalls of celebrity chefhood. Kish credits the support network around her, and mentor, Barbara Lynch, for keeping her grounded and not spread too thin in the past few years. “The biggest component to keeping my head on straight was having family and friends and a manager who gets me,” she said. “They all look out for me, which is a beautiful thing.” Going against the grain of “Top Chef ” winners and high-profile cooks on the circuit, Kish has not opened her own restaurant. For now, she doesn’t have plans to. She’s traveling instead. In April, the Travel Channel announced Kish would co-host a new show with retired soccer player Kyle Martino, titled “36 Hours” and based on the New York Times travel column of the same name. The show will send the pair around the globe, spending a day and a half sightseeing and exploring local food scenes.
MERCURE PHOTOGRAPHY
my head on straight was having family and friends and a manager who gets me. They all look out for me, which is a beautiful thing.” — Kristen Kish
“My end goal is a restaurant,” she says. “But I also realize that there are a lot of other desires I’ve had. Ever since I was really little, I’ve wanted to travel the world. Some people might look at it and say, ‘Why aren’t you opening a restaurant? You’re a cook. Let’s do this.’ But being a chef now is a bunch of different things, and I want to explore them all.”
Kristen Kish Top Chef Season 10.
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Be there. Be fabulous! Be there. Be fabulous! Be fabulous! Be there. fabulous! BeTHURSDAY, there.Be Be fabulous! JULY 9, 2015 Benefiting BenefitingShining ShiningStars StarsFoundation Foundation
JULY 9, 2015 12:30 -THURSDAY, 4:00 PM • The Base of Aspen Mountain 12:30 -THURSDAY, 4:00 PM • The Base of Aspen Mountain JULY 9, 2015
THURSDAY, JULY 9,9,2015 JULY Slip into your stilettos and•grab girlfriends - 2015 you won’t want to 12:30 -THURSDAY, 4:00 PM Theyour Base of Aspen Mountain Slip 12:30 into your stilettos and grab your girlfriends - you won’t want to 4:00 PM • The Base of Aspen Mountain 12:30 4:00 PM • The Base of Aspen Mountain miss this! An exclusive event hosted at the gondola in downtown miss this! Anstilettos exclusiveand event hosted at the gondola in downtown Slip into your grab your girlfriends - you won’t want to Aspen featuring fine wine, unique shopping, handsome Sole Men, Slip into your stilettos and grab your girlfriends you won’t want to to Slip into your stilettos and grab your girlfriends you won’t want Aspen featuring fine wine, unique shopping, handsome Sole Men, miss this! An exclusive event hosteditems at the gondola inmore! downtown delicious bites, incredible auction and so much miss this! exclusive event hosted at thethe gondola in in downtown miss this!An An exclusive event hosted at gondola downtown delicious bites, incredible auction items and so much more! Aspen featuring fine wine, unique shopping, handsome Sole Men,
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Nemerovski Family In Honor of Kellie Schenck • Jim & Kristin Bender • Laura Calabrese & Warren Kruger • Chesapeake Oil • Gallery 1949 • Harry and Phyllis Sica • Julianne and Bill Murphy
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Nemerovski Family In Honor of Kellie Schenck • Jim & Kristin Bender • Laura Calabrese & Warren Kruger • Harry and Phyllis Sica • Julianne and Bill Murphy Familychef In Honor of Kellie Jim & Kristin Bender • Laura Calabrese & Warren • Chesapeake 1949 • Harry and PhyllisWhite Sica •Knight Julianne and BillFerrari Murphy Culinary Partners The Little Nell • Caribou Nemerovski Club • Eat {private + catering •Schenck Humble• Plum • The Meatball • The ViceroyKruger Hotel & Zeno AspenOil|• Gallery Bespoke • Boisset • Chateau St. John Bijou • Justin Vineyards Culinary Partners The Little Nellco.} • Caribou Club Kitchens • Eat {private chef +Shack catering co.} • Humble Plum Kitchens Wine • ThePartners Meatball Shack• The • The Viceroy Hotel • •Zeno Aspen • Landmark Vineyards • Aloft • Charles Krug Culinary Partners The Little Nell • Caribou Club • Eat {private chef + catering co.} • Humble Plum Kitchens • The Meatball • The Viceroy Aspen | Wine Partners Bespoke • The White Knight • Boisset • Ferrari • Chateau St. John Bijou • Justin Vineyards Wine Partners Bespoke • The White Knight • Boisset • Ferrari •Shack Chateau St. JohnHotel Bijou& •Zeno Justin Vineyards • Landmark Vineyards • Aloft • Charles Krug Marketplace Vendors Alma Handbags • Amanda Mills L.A. • Artesano Hats • Azzurra Capri • B’Jewel Aspen • Bloomingbirds • Lisa MackeyKrug • Mark Richards Fine Outerwear • Susie O’s Handbags & Via Vandi • Landmark Vineyards • Aloft • Charles Marketplace Vendors Alma Handbags • Amanda Mills L.A. • Artesano Hats • Azzurra Capri • B’Jewel Aspen • Bloomingbirds • Lisa Mackey • Mark Richards Fine Outerwear • Susie O’s Handbags • Via Vandi Marketplace Vendors Alma Handbags • Amanda Mills L.A. • Artesano Hats • Azzurra Capri • B’Jewel Aspen • Bloomingbirds • Lisa Mackey • Mark Richards Fine Outerwear • Susie O’s Handbags & Via Vandi Committee Chairwoman Laura Calabrese Nemerovski Family • Jim & Kristin Bender • Calabrese Girls • Chesapeake Oil • Gallery 1949 Family & Kristin Bender • Calabrese • Chesapeake OilOil • Gallery 1949 Nemerovski Family •Bulleit Jim & Bourbon Kristin Bender •Julio Calabrese Girls • Chesapeake •- Gallery 1949 Culinary Partners The Little Nell •Nemerovski Caribou Club • Eat• •Jim • Don | Girls Wine Partners Bespoke Blackbird • The White Knight • Boisset • Ferrari
trending BEST NEW CHEFS
2015 FOOD & WINE
BEST NEW CHEFS Catch them in the Grand Tasting tents (or at a restaurant near you)
JAKE BICKELHAUPT 42 grams, Chicago
ZOI ANTONITSAS Westward, Seattle
KATIE BUTTON Curate & Nightbell, Asheville, NC
JONATHAN BROOKS Milktooth, Indianapolis
MICHAEL FOJTASEK & GRAE NONAS Olamaie, Austin
ORI MENASHE Bestia, Los Angeles
BRYCE SHUMAN Betony, New York City
LEFT COLUMN PHOTOS BY: JACK C. NEWEL; EVAN SUNG; ROBERT J LERMA; SIERRA PRESCOTT; SIGNE BIRCK RIGHT COLUMN PHOTOS BY: SARAH FLOTARD; BRADY LAUGHLIN; ELIESA JOHNSON; EVAN BRANFORD; ANNE WATSON PHOTOGRAPHY
JIM CHRISTIANSEN Heyday, Minneapolis
TIM MASLOW Strip-T’s, Watertown & Brookline, MA
CARLOS SALGADO Taco Maria Costa Mesa, CA
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local bites EAT HERE
YOU’RE GOING TO GET HUNGRY Fortunately, from a simple slice to a banquet from the sea, Aspen (and Snowmass, too) have plenty of places to grab a bite. Here are some of our favorites.
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Sometimes all you want is a slice of hot pizza and an ice-cold beer. A great escape from the madding crowd NY PIZZA Above the Green Dragon pot shop. TWO
Jimmy always has a little lamb and those chops with mint and basil make for a perfect bar nibble. JIMMY’S Everybody knows where Jimmy’s is. THREE
Pork sliders with candied bacon? ‘Nuff said. (Pair ‘em with a Sangria flight). THE LIMELIGHT LOBBY Across from the Grand Tasting Tents on Monarch Street.
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Every town needs a great watering hole and this is ours. Try the Captain Shaddock - muddled raspberries, grapefruit, tequila, agave, Pamplemouse, and lime, topped with a Pilsner. JUSTICE SNOW’S On the corner of Mill and Hyman at the Wheeler Opera House.
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Will Nolan’s corned beef hash in a skillet with fried eggs, roasted potatoes, and béarnaise works (especially after a night at Grand Cochon). RICARD Snowmass Base Village. SIX
The who’s who of the wine world eats here. The fresh pastas are bellissimo. ELEMENT 47 In The Little Nell below the gondola. SEVEN
Fresh from the sea. Nobu-san will likely be in the house this weekend. MATSUHISA The cute little Victorian on Main. EIGHT
A crispy chicken sandwich, simple salads. Inside or out.
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THE WHITE HOUSE The cute little Victorian on Restaurant Row.
ALL PHOTOS ARE BY JEREMY WALLACE/THE ASPEN TIMES
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fyi SEMINAR SCHEDULE
FRIDAY, JUNE 19 10:00 AM–10:45 AM Pépin Family Recipes Jacques and Claudine Pépin St. Regis 1 Secrets to Perfect Frying Sang Yoon St. Regis 2 Milk Bar Life: A Cookie a Day Christina Tosi Cooking Tent Wines for IPO Billionaires Mark Oldman Old Aspen Art Museum 1 Italy: The Big & The Bold Shayn Bjornholm Old Aspen Art Museum 2 The New California Renaissance Bobby Stuckey Limelight Sensational Champagne Jordan Salcito Paepcke 1 The Rosé Revolution Anthony Giglio Paepcke 2
American All-Star Cheese and Wine Laura Werlin The Little Nell 1 Rosé Champagne Patrick Cappiello The Little Nell 2 Stella Artois Presents: A Girl, 2 Ducks & A Goat Walk Into a Bar Stephanie Izard St. Regis Courtyard 10:45AM–11:30 AM Private Trade Grand Tasting Grand Tasting Pavilion 11:30 AM–1:15 PM Grand Tasting Grand Tasting Pavilion 2:00 PM–2:45 PM Inside Tyler’s Test Kitchen Tyler Florence St. Regis 1 Marcus Off Duty Marcus Samuelsson St. Regis 2 The Perfect Steak Tim Love Cooking Tent
Spain’s Great Discoveries Marnie Old Old Aspen Art Museum 1 Pinot Noir from Burgundy and Beyond Paul Grieco Old Aspen Art Museum 2 Double Take: A GrapeGuessing Game Leslie Sbrocco Limelight Power Pairings Andrea Robinson Paepcke 1 Blind Tasting Smackdown Anthony Giglio Paepcke 2 Classic Conversation Series: The Spark Dana Cowin with Hugh Acheson, Eric Ripert and Christina Tosi Theatre Aspen Epic Summer Pairing: Burgers & Wine Ray Isle The Little Nell 1 The Bloody Mary: Not Just for Brunch Anthony Bohlinger The Little Nell 2
Lexus Presents: Bernstein’s Bites Michelle Bernstein St. Regis Courtyard
Spain’s Best Cheese and Wine Laura Werlin & Megan Krigbaum Paepcke 2
3:45 PM–4:30 PM
S. Pellegrino Presents: The Source of Inspiration Moderator: Eric Ripert Theatre Aspen
Mastering My Mistakes in the Kitchen Dana Cowin & David Chang St. Regis 1 The Blais-wich Project Richard Blais St. Regis 2 Traditional Southern Dishes Carla Hall Cooking Tent The Unknown Secret to Great Wine Marnie Old Old Aspen Art Museum 1 Sonoma Superstars Andrea Robinson Old Aspen Art Museum 2 Secret Wine Finds Paul Grieco Limelight
Wingin’ It: Winning Wines for Chicken Wings Josh Wesson The Little Nell 1 Cocktail Hacks for Home Bartenders Anthony Bohlinger The Little Nell 2 Trapiche Winery Presents: MasterChef® Meets Master of Malbec Graham Elliot & Daniel Pi St. Regis Courtyard 4:30 PM–6:15 PM Grand Tasting Grand Tasting Pavilion
Best Wines for Spice Lovers Mark Oldman Paepcke 1
SATURDAY, JUNE 20 10:00 AM–10:45 AM Amazing Asian Hot Pot Andrew Zimmern St. Regis 1 My Backyard Cooking Hugh Acheson St. Regis 2 Paella Party Ken Oringer & Jamie Bissonnette Cooking Tent Wines for IPO Billionaires Mark Oldman Old Aspen Art Museum 1 Italy: The Big & The Bold Shayn Bjornholm Old Aspen Art Museum 2 The New California Renaissance Bobby Stuckey Limelight Sensational Champagne Jordan Salcito Paepcke 1 The Rosé Revolution Anthony Giglio Paepcke 2
American All-Star Cheese and Wine Laura Werlin The Little Nell 1
Pinot Noir from Burgundy and Beyond Paul Grieco Old Aspen Art Museum 2
Rosé Champagne Patrick Cappiello The Little Nell 2
Double Take: A Grape-Guessing Game Leslie Sbrocco Limelight
10:45 AM–11:30 AM Private Trade Grand Tasting Grand Tasting Pavilion 11:30 AM–1:15 PM Grand Tasting Grand Tasting Pavilion 2:00 PM–2:45 PM Inside Tyler’s Test Kitchen Tyler Florence St. Regis 1 Gail & Hugh’s Top Chef Quickfire Gail Simmons & Hugh Acheson St. Regis 2 The Perfect Steak Tim Love Cooking Tent Spain’s Great Discoveries Marnie Old Old Aspen Art Museum 1
Grand Char-CRU-terie Danny Meyer, Eric Korsh & John Ragan Paepcke 1 Blind Tasting Smackdown Anthony Giglio Paepcke 2 Classic Conversation Series: The Futurists Dana Cowin with David Chang, Marcus Samuelsson, and Andrew Zimmern Theatre Aspen Cabernet: Young & Old Ray Isle The Little Nell 1 The Bloody Mary: Not Just for Brunch Anthony Bohlinger The Little Nell 2
Lexus Presents: Discovering Your Inner Jou Michelle Bernstein St. Regis Courtyard
Spain’s Best Cheese and Wine Laura Werlin & Megan Krigbaum Paepcke 2
3:45 PM–4:30 PM
Classic Conversation Series: Food Fighters presented by Fortune Beth Kowitt with Michel Nischan, Mark Rosati and Josh Tetrick Theatre Aspen
Sushi from A to Z Masaharu Morimoto St. Regis 1 Mad Genius Cooking Tips Justin Chapple & Tamron Hall St. Regis 2 Childhood Favorites Kristen Kish Cooking Tent
Wingin’ It: Winning Wines for Chicken Wings Josh Wesson The Little Nell 1
The Unknown Secret to Great Wine Marnie Old Old Aspen Art Museum 1
Cocktail Hacks for Home Bartenders Anthony Bohlinger The Little Nell 2
Sonoma Superstars Andrea Robinson Old Aspen Art Museum 2
Tequila Patrón Presents: Handcrafted— From Agave Fields to Craft Cocktails Chris Spake St. Regis Courtyard
Secret Wine Finds Paul Grieco Limelight
4:30 PM–6:15 PM
Best Wines for Spice Lovers Mark Oldman Paepcke 1
Grand Tasting Grand Tasting Pavilion
Super Summertime Whites Leslie Sbrocco Old Aspen Art Museum 1
Power Pairings Andrea Robinson Paepcke 1
California’s Heritage Vines Jordan Salcito Old Aspen Art Museum 2
Chablis: Sommelier for Chardonnay Shayn Bjornholm Paepcke 2
Sangiovese: Italy’s Greatest Grape Bobby Stuckey The Little Nell 1
SUNDAY, JUNE 21
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10:30 AM–12:00 PM
10:30 AM–11:15 PM
The Classic Cook Off Sissy Biggers St. Regis 1
In the Kitchen with Top Chef Top Chef Season 12 Winner: Mei Lin Cooking Tent
FOOD AND WINE • 2015
fyi AREA MAP
Wagner Park
Wheeler Opera House
Paepcke Park
Hotel Jerome
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GRAND TASTING PAVILION Wagner Park
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THE LITTLE NELL
675 East Durant Ave.
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THE ST. REGIS RESORT ASPEN 315 East Dean St.
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THE COOKING TENT
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LIMELIGHT LODGE
355 South Monarch
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THE SUNDECK
On Aspen Mountain
Silver Circle Ice Rink
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REGISTRATION TENT
425 Rio Grande Place Celebrity Chef 5K Run
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PAEPCKE PARK
Main St. & Aspen St.
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OLD ASPEN ART MUSEUM
590 North Mill St.
FRIDAY, JUNE 19 The Food & Wine Classic in Aspen 5K Charity Run 7 a.m. at Rio Grande Park Hosted by Richard Blais, Marcus Samuelsson, Stephanie Izard and Tim Love Presented by
Get a running start on the Classic weekend with celebrity chefs, sommeliers, winemakers, Food & Wine editors and others during this scenic 3.1-mile race. Starting at Rio Grande Park, the course winds through the West End and along the Rio Grande Trail before finishing back at the Park. Walkers welcome, too. Sponsored by
Registration Fee is $40. On-site registration will be available at Rio Grande Park, Thursday, June 18, from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Friday, June 19, from 6 to 7 a.m. No cash will be accepted on site. $10 from each race registration will go to Wholesome Wave.
Proceeds Benefit
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FRIDAY, JUNE 19TH SNOWMASS BASE VILLAGE
BUY YOUR TICKETS JOIN US FOR THE TWO BEST CULINARY EVENTS OF THE YEAR OVER 100 OF THE BEST CHEFS, BARKEEPS, AND YOU!
Round-the-clock shuttle service before, during and after the events to and from Aspen. COLORADO
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FOOD AND WINE • 2015
ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF GALDONES PHOTOGRAPHY
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FIRE, FOOD AND WINE — the only ingredients man has ever needed for a primal good time. All that in spades will be on full display Saturday evening, June 20, when Grand Cochon, the finale of America’s pork-alicious culinary competition, moves from Aspen to Snowmass. That’s when the winners of the 10-city Cochon555 tour will sharpen their knives and get ready to throw down in the ballroom of the Viceroy for a shot at being crowned as the 2015 “King or Queen of Porc.” Formerly the final event of the Food & Wine Classic Weekend, Grand Cochon has uncoupled its affiliation with the Classic, found a new home and expanded their menu. A key component of the new offering will be an unparalleled live-fire cooking event, Heritage Fire, on Friday afternoon, June 19. Forty-five chefs from throughout the country will butcher, fillet, marinate, rub, roast, ‘cue and otherwise prep and prepare prodigious portions of meat, fish and fowl. Set on the Lawn and Hill at Base Village, Heritage Fire will feature over 3,000 pounds of heritage breed animals -- cow, pig, lamb and goat -- as well as duck, chicken, lobster, oysters and heirloom vegetables, spit-roasted or cooked over live wood fires. If you have been to Grand Cochon at the Hotel Jerome you know what an awe-inspiring party it is. This year the bar is raised.
THE NEW BREED OF FOOD FESTIVAL: GRAND COCHON “I’m passionate about promoting food sources that support a more natural, sustainable food system,” says Brady Lowe who, through his Atlanta-based Taste Network, conducts a series of culinary events throughout the country. While there has been an explosion in food and wine events over the last decade or so, Cochon555 has differentiated itself by being all about the pig. That would be the heritage breed pigs (see sidebar) that are sourced from family farms where they are raised humanely on grass and grains to ensure the finest flavors possible. Seven years ago, Lowe decided it was important to connect the farmers who raise these pigs with the locavore/carnivore community of chefs who were just beginning to appreciate the value of local products and whole animal utilization. He launched Cochon555, a competition where five chefs, five pigs and five winemakers competed to showcase the beauty of the animals by preparing dishes utilizing the whole hog, as it were, from snout to tail. In the ensuing years, Cochon has morphed into a competition that travels to 10 cities around the country, where each chef gets a heritage hog from a farm of their choosing and preps dishes which are judged by a distinguished panel and the
Tickets for events range from $100 (general admission) and $200 (VIP). General admission price includes over 50 dishes prepared from the entirety of heritage breed animals from nose to tail, roasted over open fires, paired with premium wines, brews and spirits. Both ticket prices include endless drink and tons of food. VIP starts includes one-hour early access to all the food (premium access to limited experiences), and a chance to hang with notable chefs, partners of the event and media. To purchase, visit cochon555.com. Aspen/Snowmass locals may receive a discount of $15 by purchasing tickets at stayaspensnowmass.com. Or you can purchase tickets at the events.
GET A RIDE
For convenience, complimentary shuttles from Aspen will depart every 10 minutes from Paepcke Park and will start one hour before peak event times. The shuttles will register guests and provide complimentary beverages during the 12-14 minute trip up to Snowmass.
audience. Everything from lardo caramels to bone marrow buttercream to pork liver and kidney Paella de Cerdo makes the menus. The winners of each of the local competitions this year will be coming to Snowmass for a shot at the crown. In addition to showcasing great chefs and amazing heritage hogs, Grand Cochon is a celebration of all things food and drink.
“I’m passionate about promoting food sources that support a more natural, sustainable food system.” — Brady Lowe Cochon founder Brady Lowe (yellow shirt) takes a bow with the competitors at the 2014 Grand Cochon which crowned Los Angeles chef Ray Garcia (center, in black hat) as the ‘King Of Porc’.
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FURTHER, FASTER, TOGETHER
RMI SUMMER DIALOGUE SERIES - AN OPPORTUNITY TO ENGAGE WITH OUR EXPERTS Featured speakers include Chief Scientist and co-founder Amory Lovins and CEO Jules Kortenhorst
Thursday, July 23rd
The Ten Island Challenge
5:30 pm – 7:30 pm Limelight Hotel Aspen Program & Reception
Wednesday, August 12th 5:30 pm – 7:30 pm Limelight Hotel Aspen
Accelerating the shift of Caribbean island economies to renewable energy Learn about how the RMI and Carbon War Room team is reducing the dependence of island nations—from St. Lucia to Aruba—on expensive and dirty fossil fuels.
Reinventing Fire: Charting a Clean Energy Path for China
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Blue skies and clean air for the world’s second largest economy Learn about the analysis that will lay the foundation for policy decisions relevant to China’s 13th Five-Year Plan.
Program & Reception
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Wednesday, A Beacon of Innovation nd September 2 in Basalt 5:30 pm – 7:30 pm Public Library Basalt Program & Reception
How green buildings are designed, contracted, constructed, and occupied Hear from the team behind the soon-to-open state-of-the-art Innovation Center.
Visit www.rmi.org/dialogueseries for up-to-date details and to RSVP as seating is limited. Follow us on Twitter and Facebook
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ILE H W Y L A T OF I s r o v ASPEN E fla F H O T S R N I O A V SA OUNT M E H T y o j n e U O Y 205 S. Mill 970.920-7717 • WWW.CAMPODEFIORI.NET
farm to fire COCHON-HERITAGE FIRE
2015 ‘PRINCESSES AND PRINCES OF PORC’ THE CHEFS – THEIR RESTAURANTS – THE PIGS – THE FARMS
Matt Vawter, Mercantile, Denver Berkshire – Cone Ranch, Julesburg, Colorado Known as “Kurobuta” in Japan, Berkshire is the most popular of the heritage breeds and a favorite with chefs because of its distinctive marbling. The meat is sweet and creamy with hints of nuttiness.
Here are the chefs who won each of the national Cochon555 events. The chefs will be utilizing the same pigs that they won their local competitions with: Francis Derby, The Cannibal, NYC Old Spot - Autumn’s Harvest Farms, Romulus, NY
Jody Adams, Rialto, Boston Red Wattle – The Brooks Cloud, Brooks, ME Thomas Boemer, Corner Table, Minneapolis Large Black – Lucky George Farm, Derby, IA Matt Vawter, Mercantile, Denver Berkshire – Cone Ranch, Julesburg, CO Danny Lee, Mandu, D.C. Berkshire – Buckingham Berkshires, Buckingham, VA Walter Manzke, Republique, Los Angeles Large Black – Cook Pigs Ranch, Julian, CA David Bazirgan, Dirty Habit, San Francisco Old Spot – Love Family Farm, Alta, CA Lindsay Autry, Fin & Feather, Miami Red Wattle – South Florida Heritage Farm, Okeechobee, FLA Nicole Pederson, Found Kitchen, Chicago Hereford – Catalpa Grove, Columbiana, OH
ABOUT THOSE PIGS Heritage breed pigs come from bloodlines going back hundreds of years when livestock was raised on multi-use, open-pasture farms. Because of their lifestyle and inherent genes, different breeds became known for a variety of characteristics, including the rich and hearty taste of their meat, distinct marbling, bacon flavors and creamy fat. For the Grand Cochon competition, each of the chefs is given a whole heritage pig, raised for flavor on grass and grain and sourced from farms around the country. The idea? To use as many piggy parts as they possibly can and let nothing go to waste. Here are three of the representing pigs and their chefs:
BURN BABY BURN
Mark Decker, Down House, Houston Red Wattle – The Barry Farm, Needville, TX
Walter Manzke, Republique, Los Angeles Large Black – Cook Pigs Ranch, Julian, California Perfected by farmers for more than a century, Large Black are bred for taste and hardiness. Due to the breed’s short muscle fibers, the lean, micro-marbled meat is extra tender and moist, and has a distinct taste. Jody Adams – Rialto, Boston Red Wattle, The Brooks Cloud, Brooks, Maine Originating from Caledonia, this extremely rare breed gets its name from its red color and the fleshy skin that hangs under its jowls. Lean and juicy with a rich, beef-like taste and texture, it’s prized for tender meat and splendid hams.
I
n the shadow of the Big Burn on Snowmass, Heritage Fire will bring together over four dozen local and national chefs who will cook prodigious amounts of hyper-local, Colorado-grown and raised food products in concert with each other. The Lawn and Hill at Base Village will become the Valley’s largest outdoor kitchen as chefs like Mark Fischer from Carbondale’s Town and Will Nolan from Snowmass’s 8K light the fires with San Francisco’s Matt Accarrino from SPQR (he was a Food & Wine Magazine Best New Chef last year) and Alex Seidel (a 2010 Best New Chef) who runs Fruition and Mercantile in Denver. In addition to the cow, pig, lamb and goat ― as well as duck, chicken, lobster, oysters and heirloom vegetables ― that will be fired up, the event will also include animal theatre cooking, butcher demonstrations and pop-up demos featuring renowned tattoo artists Darren Brass and Jose Santiago of Miami Ink tattooing heritage breed hams. Oh, and there will be alcohol. The Perfect Manhattan Experience will feature spirits from Breckenridge Bourbon, Buffalo Trace, Eagle Rare and Hirsch. California’s Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir presents the Bacon Hall of Fame. A Tequila Truck from Don Julio and will pour margaritas and a Rioja Tapas Bar will feature Rioja-style lamb along with amazing wines from Rioja. And that ain’t the half of it.
PUNCH KINGS TO PACK A WALLOP Also, during Heritage Fire the winning bartenders from the national Punch Kings competition will gather for a Last Call where they will compete at COCHON 555’s Grand Finale Spirits Competition featuring Breckenridge Bourbon. The highlyspirited event is the culmination of the competitions that took place in 10 cities across the U.S. throughout the year. Fifty barkeeps began the year but just one will be named winner of the 2015 National Punch King title. “This will be the most notable punch-themed celebration to hit the country since prohibition was lifted in 1933!” says COCHON 555 founder Brady Lowe.
IMAGE COURTESY OF GALDONES PHOTOGRAPHY
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favorites MY ASPEN ASPEN TIMES: You have roots here in Aspen, as your grandparents lived in the West End and helped establish the Joan and Irving Harris Concert Hall. Can you share any thoughts or special memories about your relationship through the years with Aspen? DM: It’s hard to know where to begin. I learned to ski in Aspen and Snowmass throughout my early 20s, as Irving and Joan welcomed us to use their home during the winters, when they spent less time (there). Back then, we’d begin every morning either at the Hickory House or at the Main Street Bakery. There weren’t nearly as many good restaurants as there are today, so we’d cook dinner at home, drink good wine, and then head out to Andrés or the Paradise to hear music. I never knew the joys of summer in Aspen until Food & Wine first invited me to be on a dessert wine panel back in 1987. I’ve only missed three Classics since then!
MEET DANNY MEYER Danny Meyer on his meteoric success as a restaurateur, his Classic connection and why he’ll never open a restaurant in Aspen. BY KELLY J. HAYES
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AT: You have been involved with the Food & Wine Classic for a number of years. What’s special about the event and why do you come each year? DM: I think this may be my 20th Food & Wine Classic coming up. I have the same routine every year. Lunch at Ajax Tavern right off the airplane. An early morning run on Friday gets me acclimated to the altitude, and then it’s off to the races with wine and restaurant industry panels. There have been years when I’ve been on five panels, hosted a Platinum Card dinner, and still partaken in all of the industry events. There is no other event that so seamlessly and brilliantly weaves together industry colleagues, wine makers, journalists, and the world’s most avid food lovers. And Aspen’s hospitality makes everyone behave and relax! Tom Colicchio and I actually hatched our plan to create Gramercy Tavern in the courtyard behind Main Street Bakery, and it was in Aspen that I first met Mike Anthony, who just won the 2015 James Beard Award as Outstanding Chef for his vision and leadership at Gramercy Tavern. AT: At the Classic, you’ve conducted seminars pairing pizza, barbeque, burgers and wieners with fine wines. Sounds like you’re just having fun. This year, you and your Union Square Hospitality Group (USHG) colleagues, Eric Korsh (chef at New York’s North End Grill) and John Ragan (Master Sommelier and Wine Director USHG), will be hosting Grand Char-CRU-terie? DM: Each year for the past dozen or so, I’ve had all kinds of fun pairing wines with foods you don’t always think about with wine. I’ve always wanted to make the point that wine is simply a condiment for PHOTO COURTESY USHG
Untitled, Meyer’s restaurant in the new Renzo Piano-designed Whitney Museum of American Art in New York City, is helmed by Chef Michael Anthony of Gramercy Tavern.
“I never knew the joys of summer in Aspen until Food & Wine first invited me to be on a dessert wine panel back in 1987.”
food – not something to get all worked up about. It’s sauce on the side, and if it gets you a little sauced, that’s actually okay, too! The panels have helped me to think about our own restaurants, and often, I’m testing out ideas here. Ideas that make our own wine lists stronger, and ideas that might one day end up as a restaurant. That’s why I’ve paired wine with everything from hot dogs, to burgers, to pizza, barbecue, grilled food, and delicatessen food. Eric Korsh makes superb charcuterie, and this year’s attendees are in for a real treat. AT: Do you have any favorite Aspen haunts or people that you look forward to seeing each year? DM: I love so many places in Aspen that it’s hard to single any out. But I rarely miss a visit to Ajax Tavern, Montagna (now element 47), Jimmy’s, and Matsuhisa. I’m overdue for a return visit to Cache Cache! I adore staying at The Little Nell, whose former general manager, John Speers, was our opening general manager at Tabla. Through John, I got to meet Sabato Sagaria, who helped us brilliantly during the one summer weekend we brought the Big Aspen Barbecue Block Party to Aspen. Sabato is doing a remarkable job as USHG’s Chief Restaurant Officer. AT: The Restaurant Trade Program at the Classic often finds you sitting in on presentations and conversations with the national chef and hospitality community. This year the subject of your panel is Casual 2.0. Is this your way of giving back, or do you get something from the interactions as well? DM: I love those panels and guarantee you that I learn at least as much as I might be teaching others. I enjoy meeting other
TOP: PHOTO COURTESY OF USHG; MIDDLE: PHOTO BY PERRY JOHNSON/FOOD & WINE; ABOVE: PHOTO BY PETER MAUSS/ESTO
colleagues from the industry, and questions from the moderator as well as the audience forces me out of my comfort zone and into thinking about what matters to our trade. AT: At one of the trade presentations here last year you described 9/11 as the darkest day of your career. But you went on to say that it brought an epiphany about how restaurateurs had the ability to change and to improve circumstances in difficult times and situations. Can you elaborate on that thought? DM: In difficult times I find solace in hope. And hope is what we are truly selling to our guests. The hope that however I might feel when I first walk into your restaurant, I might actually feel even better when you are done sharing your hospitality with me. In times of fear, hope is especially needed and craved. AT: You run the 5K Charity Run each year at the Classic. What inspires you to get up and run the event, and will we see you this year at the finish? DM: I love running and while we do have the East River and a bunch of skyscrapers in New York, let’s face it, the Roaring Fork and Rockies win hands down. I made a big mistake the first year I ran the race by trying to go out early with Marcus Samuelsson and Bobby Stuckey. That lasted for about 11 seconds, and as a consequence, I spent the rest of the day coughing my lungs out. Now my tactic is to try to feel great every time someone passes me! AT: Any chance we’ll ever see a USHG restaurant, or a Shake Shack, in Aspen? DM: I doubt it. It’s important to preserve places in life to enjoy being, rather than doing. Aspen is one of the best places on Earth to be. W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M
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profiles CHEFS CLUB ASPEN
CHEFS CLUB BY FOOD & WINE Savor dinner with the nation’s best new chefs (no membership required) BY LINDA HAYES IT WAS THREE YEARS AGO this weekend that Chefs Club by FOOD & WINE, a new restaurant concept showcasing the fare of nationally recognized Food & Wine magazine Best New Chefs, made its debut at The St. Regis Aspen Resort. Since then, the restaurant has evolved into one of the best and brightest in Aspen, and the idea has caught on. Last November, Chefs Club New York opened in the historic Puck Building on Soho’s Mulberry Street. “While most companies start in New York City, L.A., or Rome, and then move to Aspen, we were lucky enough to have success in Aspen and grow from there,” said Aspen-based master sommelier and Chefs Club CEO Jonathan Pullis. “We are thrilled to start another season in Aspen with four top Best New Chefs from
“While most companies start in New York City, L.A., or Rome, and then move to Aspen, we were lucky enough to have success in Aspen and grow from there,”
— Jonathan Pullis
around the country sharing their delicious cuisine. Opening in New York was tremendously exciting and the restaurant is quickly turning into a must-do experience there as well.” The Chefs Club concept, now Chefs Club USA, was designed around Food & Wine’s annual Best New Chef awards, which, since 1988 have honored the country’s most promising up-and-coming chefs. Twice a year, Food & Wine editor in chief Dana Cowin selects four Best New Chefs to add signature dishes to menus crafted by executive chefs Todd Slossberg in Aspen and Matthew Aita in New York. Chefs Club culinary Director Didier Elena oversees both kitchens. According to Cowin, there are plans to open two more Chefs Clubs in the coming year, but the locations are still hush-hush.
Tip:
Pre-dinner, grab a seasonal craft cocktail at the bar or on the courtyard patio. And watch for special events, like pig roasts.
Jonathan Pullis, CEO and Master Sommelier of Chefs Club USA.
THE ASPEN SCENE
Executive chef Todd Slossberg
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Award-winning interior designer Lauren Rottet brought Chefs Club to life with a mountain fantasy theme, complete with snowflake cut-outs suspended from the ceiling and chinked flat-plank walls. Diners may choose to sink into leather club chairs at linen-topped tables, or settle at a line-up of white swirl-back seats that overlook the gleaming, state-ofthe-art open kitchen. The room’s playful, dark-and-light color scheme is accented by a rotating collection of artwork. RESTAURANT PHOTO: COURTESY PHOTO; SLOSSBERG/PULLIS: ASPEN TIMES FILE PHOTOS
profiles CHEFS CLUB N.Y.
THE NEW YORK SCENE NYC’s lauded Rockwell Group turned a raw, 4,000-square-foot space in the landmark, turn-of-the-century Puck Building into an edgy eatery centered around a large open kitchen with massive steel hoods. Organic materials in neutral hues, such as walnut, raw concrete, leather and blackened steel, perfectly complement original cast iron columns and high brick ceilings. Seating is at adjoining marble and wood counters, or at large banquettes along the wall. A long bar anchors a sidewall and a 1,400-pound boulder of salt dangles overhead.
THE BEST NEW CHEFS AND THEIR DISHES > LACHLAN MACKINNONPATTERSON Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder, Best New Chef 2005 ON THE MENU: Bucatini alla Carbonara - Sfoglini bucatini, smoked guanciale, red onion, Hudson Valley egg yolk, Pecorino Ginepro > GABRIEL RUCKER Le Pigeon in Portland, Oregon, Best New Chef 2007 ON THE MENU: “Le Pigeon” Squab à la Plancha with giblets, leeks, chestnut, sage > LINTON HOPKINS Restaurant Eugene and Holeman & Finch of Public House in Atlanta, Best New Chef 2009
APPEARING AT CHEFS CLUB ASPEN THIS SUMMER > GREG & GABRIELLE DENTON Ox, Portland, Oregon Best New Chefs 2014 ON THE MENU: Grilled Wild Salmon with padron peppers, buttered corn, cherry tomato and charred poblano romesco
ON THE MENU: Low Country Seafood Pan Roast with Anson Mills grits, Carolina trout roe, paprika
Tip:
Guest chefs are regularly slated for special dinners in the Chefs Club Studio. And lately, superstar chefs José Andrés > ERIK ANDERSON and Emeril Lagasse have been spotted stirring things Brut in Minneapolis, up the kitchen. Sharpen Best New Chef 2012 your appetite. ON THE MENU: Flounder
with grilled spring onions, roasted chicken skin bouillon, morels, trout roe
> CARA STADLER Tao Yuan, Brunswick, Maine Best New Chef 2014 ON THE MENU Miso Butter-Crusted Alaskan Halibut with braised daikon, fennel salad, tarragon, chervil and lemon > PAUL QUI Qui Restaurant, Austin Best New Chef 2014 ON THE MENU Emma Farms Beef Short Rib with fresh wasabi, sorrel and coffee bean oil
PHOTOS COURTESY CHEFS CLUB USA
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around town PARTY ON
PARTY ON! Where to celebrate the Food & Wine weekend—no festival pass required BY AMANDA RAE
FIND YOURSELF WITHOUT ACCESS to the tents and seminars during the 33rd annual Food & Wine Classic in Aspen? No biggie. The weekend is packed with parties piggybacking on the gastronomic free-for-all. Better still, rubbing elbows with a celebrity chef or master sommelier at these fêtes is practically guaranteed. Here’s where to find fun on the fringe: There’s a reason why The Little Nell is considered off-duty-chef headquarters. Many happenings here — an industry welcome party, wine dinners, the return of the Red Light Lounge — are VIP-exclusive. But anyone may dine in element 47 and swallow knowledge from guest sommeliers. Choose your own adventure: Celebrate the unveiling of element 47’s third signature Champagne, a collaboration with Pierre Moncuit of France; tour the property’s stellar 19,500-bottle wine cellar, if you’re lucky; or simply post up in the Living Room, a prime spot to watch passersby. Cocktail time? Justice Snow’s presents a rum extravaganza! Sip specialty libations from two award-winning, small-batch producers: Montanya Distillers from Crested Butte, and
Brothers in wine, Nick Barb, Advanced Sommelier, Carlton McCoy, Wine Director and Master Sommelier, and Assistant Food & Beverage Director Csaba “Chubby” Oveges love to show off the Little Nell’s wine tasting dungeon.
“This is my home and I do these events for the locals.” — Susie Jimenez
TOP: C2 PHOTOGRAPHY; ABOVE: PHOTO BY NOAH FECKS
Colombia’s Parce Rum—Gold medal winner at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition in March. Also, Justice Snow’s is the first bar in town to pour spirits from Carbondale’s new Marble Distilling Company, including cordials featured on its brunch beverage menu. “The world’s smallest bar”—Mini Jimmy’s— returns to the coat closet at Jimmy’s: An American Restaurant, in collaboration with PDT and showcasing Jeff Bell, Diageo USA 2013 Bartender of the Year. Outside on the patio bar sponsored by William Grant & Sons, “Team Voisey Rides Again!” welcomes highprofile bartenders who create one-of-a-kind concoctions. Jimmy’s Bodega hosts a Charlie Bird NYC pop-up series of prix-fixe dinners, Friday and Saturday nights. Five-course dinners prepared by Charlie Bird owner-chef (and Little Nell alum) Ryan Hardy, will focus on crudo and Charlie Bird classics. Wine pairings will be selected by Charlie Bird’s sommeliers and wine directors, Robert Bohr and Grant Reynolds. Reservations can be made through resy.com. W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M
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around town PARTY ON
Susie Jimenez, 2011 “Food Network Star” runner-up, national festival circuit chef and 14year Aspenite, throws two parties on June 20 atop The Prospector Luxury Condominiums: Sparklers & Spice (1:30 to 4:30 p.m.), pairing piquant bites with Spanish Segura Viuda sparkling wine, and A Taste of Mexico (6:30 to 9:30 p.m.), featuring her family-recipe carnitas alongside Titanium Tequila. The events benefit Food Bank of the Rockies and English in Action, respectively. “This is my home and I do these events for the locals,” Jimenez says. $25; visit sparklersandspiceaspen.eventbrite. com; tasteofmexicoaspen.eventbrite.com. Finally, Snowmass gets in on the action during a pair of carnivorous feasts. At Heritage Fire on Friday evening, the valley’s Will Nolan, Mark Fischer, Jim Butchart, and Richard Sandoval — among 45 local and national chefs, farmers, and butchers — will roast 3,000 pounds of heritage-breed animals on spits and over live fires at Base Village. Saturday night, the Viceroy hosts Grand Cochon, which draws 10 top national chefs to vie for the title of “King or Queen of Porc.” Event tickets start at $100; visit cochon555.com. (See article on page 26.) Victoria’s Espresso Wine Bar & Gourmet Grazing invites Napa Valley’s prestigious Canard Vineyard, home to some of the oldest zinfandel vines in the country, and Aiya Matcha & Green Tea, purveyor of the shop’s popular “sticky chai,” to pop by for
freewheeling tastings. Co-owner and pastry ace John Beatty also unveils new flavors of homemade gelato and espresso-based cocktails. Sample holistic honey from Carbondale; EVOO Marketplace infused olive oils and vinegars; Aspen-based Gina Cucina Soups; goat’s milk cheeses, frozen yogurt, and kefir from Paonia; handmade chocolate truffles; and more at the Aspen Emporium and Flying Circus. Also find jewelry, housewares, and art from 70 artists and producers at its ongoing open house set to live music. Saturday night, The Infinite Monkey Theorem urban winery of Denver infiltrates
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the historic Smuggler Mine for a vino-soaked encore of mountain mayhem. Launched in 2011, the bash is more exclusive than ever, inviting those in the know (or with the right connections) to enjoy Colorado-centric booze and bites. The big buzz? Infinite Monkey Theorem’s single-serve wine-in-a-can is now available in Whole Foods Markets in 41 states across the country. Can’t get on the party list? Try award-winning TIMT wine at The Limelight Hotel, Meat & Cheese, The White House Tavern and The Sky Hotel. Pass or not, food and wine lovers will find plenty of ways to play all weekend long.
PHOTOS BY NOAH FECKS
BRAND NEW CONSTRUCTION 540 Walnut St, Aspen | $7,500,000
Brand new construction! Minutes walk to Aspen core. This five bedroom, 5,000+ sq. ft. family home offers an open floor plan and multiple decks with breath taking views. Three above grade bedrooms bring in views of Aspen Mountain, Shadow Mountain, Smuggler Mountain and Buttermilk. The entertaining area comes complete with a wet bar, media center, and billiards area. Every detail was carefully considered in designing the clean lines, comfortable elegance and modern style. MLS#: 137893
CHRIS SOUKI
Experience is the Difference
970.948.4378 chris@masonmorse.com
Coldwell Banker Mason Morse Aspen | 514 E. Hyman Avenue | 970.925.7000 | Find more at www.masonmorse.com Exclusive Member for Aspen and Snowmass, CO
©2015 Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. A Realogy Company. All Rights Reserved. Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Each office is Independently Owned and Operated. Coldwell Banker®, the Coldwell Banker Logo, Coldwell Banker Previews International®, the Previews International Logo, and “Dedicated to Luxury Real EstateSM” are registered and unregistered service marks to Coldwell Banker LLC.
RESTAURANT SPACES FOR LEASE
AT THE DANCING BEAR
ON THE MALL
This approximately 3,000 sf. space is available for a new restaurant at 219 East Durant Avenue (corner of Monarch) in the final phase of the spectacular Dancing Bear, Aspen’s most vibrant private residence club. This is a special and unique opportunity to create an amazing new restaurant in downtown Aspen. For details and floor plans contact the Listing Brokers.
Restaurant/bar space available near Wagner Park and all the Food & Wine Classic venues. Located in the Golden Horn Building, this space offers the opportunity for outdoor Mall dining. Already equipped with a full kitchen and bar. Ready for new décor and a new menu.
ALSO AVAILABLE: • • •
Prime Retail spaces in downtown Aspen Office Spaces for lease downtown or on Main Street Investment properties for sale
Karen Setterfield MBA, CCIM, CNE
cell 970-379-3876 karen@aspenreal.com
407 South Hunter Street #3, Aspen, CO 81611
970-920-1833
See ALL Aspen MLS Listings at:
www.aspenreal.com
Angi Wang Lester CNE
cell 970-274-6117 angi@aspenreal.com
spotlight BIRTHDAY
HAPPY BIRTHDAY, JACQUES! “Any good cook knows that good cooking and good health are inseparable.” – Jacques Pépin From one Jacques to another. The celebrated chocolatier, Jacques Torrres, honored the celebrated chef, Jacques Pépin, with his favorite cake.
The apple does not fall far from the tree. Jacques with his granddaughter, Shorey Wesen, in the kitchen. Of course.
HE IS THE GRANDFATHER WE all wish we had. And if we did, we would eat better for it. Jacques Pépin is the closest thing the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen has to a patron saint. Over the decades he has been a perennial attendee at the Classic and has brought not just wisdom and wit, but a presence that provides authenticity and credibility to the annual summer soiree. This December 18, Jacques will be turning 80, and the folks at the Food & Wine Classic will be taking the opportunity to offer him best wishes at the annual Publishers Party. If you see him around town, be sure to wish him an early happy birthday. Jacques may be best known in Aspen for his cooking demonstrations with his daughter, Claudine (they will open the Classic on Friday morning with a seminar titled Pépin Family Recipes), or perhaps for his association in earlier Classics with his dear friend, Julia Child, or even for his PBS cooking series Fast Food My Way. But he is so much more.
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Pépin is also a mentor, an educator, an innovator, an artist and one of the finest classically trained French chefs on the planet. He was born in the cradle of French Cuisine in Bourgen-Bresse near Lyon. After stints at the Plaza Athénée in Paris and working as the personal chef to three French presidents, including Charles
De Gaulle, he came to the United States in 1959. His career has included the writing of more than 20 cookbooks, starring in a myriad of broadcast television programs and preparing countless meals across the world in pursuit of his passion for cooking. Today, with his French accent still charmingly intact, he contributes to Food & Wine magazine, sits as an adjunct professor at the Boston University Masters Gastronomy Program, paints his watercolors and, of course, dotes on his grand daughter, Shorey. Lucky her. We are all fortunate to have Jacques as a visitor to Aspen each summer. Here’s to a happy and healthy 80th birthday
CAKE PHOTO COURTESY JACQUES TORRES CHOCOLATES; JACQUES WITH HIS GRANDDAUGHTER, PHOTO BY TOM HOPKINS
Every July, Every Year at The Grand Hyatt, Aspen
Unique opportunity to own ALL of July, up to 5 consecutive weeks, INCLUDING July 4th, PLUS an additional 50 floating days annually. Priced from $140,000 for 1 week to $547,500 for all 5! 2, 3, or 4 consecutive weeks available. Call me today for details.
Eric Cohen c 970.948.3288 Eric.Cohen@SothebysRealty.com
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LIGHTING | SHADES | AV | CLIMATE | SECURITY All brand names, product names, and trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Certain trademarks,registered trademarks, and trade names may be used in this document to refer to either the entities claiming the marks and names or their products. Crestron disclaims any proprietary interest in the marks and names of others. Crestron is not responsible for errors in typography or photography. ©2015 Crestron Electronics, Inc. AD_05_2015
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5/13/15 2:22 PM
a look back MARY E. HAYES
around aspen THE SOCIAL SIDE OF TOWN A TRIBUTE TO MARY HAYES
WE CAN’T SAY FOR SURE that Mary Hayes attended all 32 of the Aspen Food & Wine Classics. But we’ll bet, going back to its earliest incarnation as the Snowmass International Wine Classic in 1983, that no one attended more than she did. We lost Mary this winter at the age of 86. She was, for most of the past six decades, the heart and soul of The Aspen Times. Her “Around Aspen” column was the definitive record of what happened in this town each week. Over the years, she took more than 60,000 photos for her column, many of them during the annual Classic. With her big, round, coke-bottle glasses, perfectly trimmed grey bangs and ever-present notebook and camera, Mary was as much a presence at the Classic as chardonnay and caviar. Everyone in the food world, it seemed, knew her, and everyone wanted her to take his or her picture. This will be the first time in recent memory that she will not be on hand to document the goings-on at the Classic, so we thought to run a retrospective of some of her photos from Classics past. Take a moment to raise a glass to Mary. She’d appreciate it. Undercurrents … looks like a late season for the gardeners this year. There is still snow on Bell Mountain and the old-timers always said not to plant until all the snow is off Bell Mountain. Better have another glass of wine.
There was an innocence to the Classic in the early days. This is Wagner Park on the opening morning of the 1992 Classic.
Actor and part time Aspenite Kevin Costner took a star turn at the Classic Cook-Off with Hawaiian chef extraordinaire Roy Yamaguchi in 2003
‘Of Grape & Grain’s’ Gary Plumley was instrumental in the founding of the inaugural Aspen/Snowmass International Wine Classic in 1983.
Chef Julia Child with the Hotel Jerome’s Tony DiLucia, twenty years ago at the 1995 Food & Wine Classic.
The late Julie McGowan, former publisher of Food & Wine Magazine, was a key figure in developing the Classic. With her in this photo from the 2000 Classic is a young chef named Bobby Flay. Chicago Chef Stephanie Izard was the first female chef to win Bravo’s Top Chef. Here she is cooking at the Classic in 2013.
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FOOD AND WINE • 2015
Aspen’s Former Best New Chef (1995 at Renaissance) Charles Dale always looks forward to returning to the Classic
the good life
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