Winter in Aspen 2018 by Colorado Mountain News Media

2018 WHAT’S NEW Alpine coaster will take your breath away

TECH TALK

There’s an app for that

OFFPISTE

Hot toddies, roaring fires and other indoor delights

SKI AJAX Why Aspen Mountain is a local fave for lunch laps, powder days and more

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R E A D Y

T O

S E L L ?

MOUNTAIN MAGIC | ASPEN VALLEY DOWNS | $25,000,000

This 17-acre estate has been created with attention to every detail. Privacy, land, 6 bedrooms, caretaker’s quarters, pond and waterfalls make this property magical. Views from Independence Pass to Mt. Sopris. MLS# 149587

JILL SHORE, Broker Associate 970.948.6121 | jill.shore@elliman.com

A PARADISE FOUND ON MCLAIN FLATS | WEST ASPEN | $36,000,000

2.5 miles from Aspen and on 83 acres. Grounds boast views of Aspen’s upper valley. Includes a large guest house. In addition to the existing home, another approx. 8,500+ sf building site is available. MLS# 149757; AspenMclainFlats.com MICHAEL LATOUSEK, Broker Associate 970.618.7768 | michael.latousek@elliman.com

L O O K I N G

T O

B U Y ?

WEST ASPEN REMODEL | CEMETERY LANE | $2,600,000

A light, bright, newly updated 3-bedroom, 3-bath, half-duplex on Cemetery Lane. Large private yard space, close proximity to Tot Lot park and the Aspen Golf Course, just minutes from downtown Aspen. MLS# 150502 BLAKE APPLEBY, Broker Associate 970.379.1143 | blake.appleby@elliman.com

CONTEMPORARY AND SERENE | EAST ASPEN | $11,900,000

Why spend millions to sit in traffic into Aspen from the west when you can live less than a mile from town in the east. This contemporary retreat has gardens and a huge back yard and great mountain views. MLS# 149184 RAIFIE BASS, Broker Associate 970.948.7424 | raifie.bass@elliman.com

BUTTERMILK ESTATE | WEST ASPEN | $21,900,000

One of the most extraordinary newly constructed homes offered in Aspen. With contemporary lines and stunning views of the Owl Creek Valley, Buttermilk and Snowmass, the retreat features numerous living spaces. MLS# 150073

JOSHUA SASLOVE Broker Associate 970.948.38765 joshua.saslove@elliman.com

AMY DOHERTY, Broker Associate 970.903.5733, amy.doherty@elliman.com RILEY WARWICK, Broker Associate 970.989.8157, riley.warwick@elliman.com

HERRON HOLLOW ESTATE | RED MOUNTAIN | $12,500/NIGHT

Exclusive estate situated on a forested cul-de-sac. Enjoy breathtaking architecture, outdoor dining and seating areas, waterfalls, streams and ponds. The 3-car garage has room for plenty of toys and vehicles. MLS# 150516

DANNY BECKER, Broker Associate 970.948.5769 | danny.becker@elliman.com

DOWNTOWN ASPEN

630 East Hyman Avenue | 970.925.8810

520 East Durant Avenue | 970.925.8810

STUNNING VIEWS FROM WHITE STAR RANCH | MCLAIN FLATS | $3,600,000

Located minutes from Aspen in the notable White Star Ranch, this flat, 2.12-acre parcel is ready for your imagination to run wild. Stunning views of Aspen Mtn, Capitol Peak and Mt. Daly offer dramatic backdrops. MLS# 146155 JOSHUA SASLOVE, Broker Associate 970.948.38765 | joshua.saslove@elliman.com

UNPARALLELED RED MTN VIEWS | RED MOUNTAIN | $9,200,000

If you are looking for the epic views that make Red Mountain so sought after, then you must see this home. This property has a spectacular open entertaining area and 4 bedrooms featuring vistas from Independence Pass to Mt. Sopris. MLS# 151776 MELANIE MUSS, Broker Associate 970.987.8822 | melanie.muss@elliman.com

ASPEN HIGHLANDS

SNOWMASS VILLAGE

133 Prospector Road | 970.925.8810

16 Kearns Road | Suite 113 | 970.923.4700

R E A D Y

T O

S E L L ?

MOUNTAIN MAGIC | ASPEN VALLEY DOWNS | $25,000,000

JILL SHORE, Broker Associate 970.948.6121 | jill.shore@elliman.com

A PARADISE FOUND ON MCLAIN FLATS | WEST ASPEN | $36,000,000

L O O K I N G

T O

B U Y ?

WEST ASPEN REMODEL | CEMETERY LANE | $2,600,000

CONTEMPORARY AND SERENE | EAST ASPEN | $11,900,000

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I T ’ S

T I M E

F O R

ELEGANT LOG HOME | HORSE RANCH | $3,499,000

Huge views from the Continental Divide to Snomwass ski area and in the coveted Horse Ranch neighborhood. Open upper living area is excellent for entertaining with a large seating area, wet bar and formal dining area. MLS# 148864 LORI GUILANDER, Broker Associate 970.987.1450 | lori.guilander@elliman.com MARY KATE FARRELL, Broker Associate 973.987.7090 | marykate.farrell@elliman.com

TRULY A PIECE OF ART | WOODRUN | $7,995,000

Not just a splendid property, but a brilliant, three-dimensional piece of art itself. Every aspect of the home is custom made with extraordinary materials and the finest craftsmanship. MLS# 150494 LAUREN GARRITY, Broker Associate 970.618.7576 | lauren.garrity@elliman.com

E L L I M A N

TRANQUIL AND SERENE OASIS | WEST ASPEN | $14,990,000

Tucked away, but Aspen is practically at your doorstep. Set on nearly 4.5 acres, this special estate boasts lush landscaping, breathtaking one-of-a-kind views of Pyramid Peak and Aspen Highlands. MLS# 145673; 73hideaway.com JOSHUA LANDIS, Broker Associate 970.948.9485 | joshua.landis@elliman.com

HISTORIC VICTORIAN STYLE | SMUGGLER | $3,695,000

A beautiful home with south-facing views of Aspen Mtn. with an artist’s studio and sunroom. House is not designated, but has Victorian architectural overtones. Large deck, detached 2-car garage with a lighted breezeway. MLS# 151711 BILL STIRLING, Broker Associate 970.948.8287 | bill.stirling@elliman.com

CALIBER RM 037

RICHARD MILLE BOUTIQUE ST. REGIS RESORT, ASPEN (970) 300-3318

contents

16 Got apps? Local mountains go high tech

6 From the editor 10 Contributors

INSIDER 12

18 Buying Binge Skico affiliate buys 13 new resorts 22 Olympic Bound Local athletes have eyes on the prize 24 In the Limelight A new Limelight Hotel on the horizon

GO&DO 12 Take The Ride New alpine coaster offers thrills in Snowmass

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

28 The Power of Four How to ski ’em all in a day

32 Secret Stash Powder days at Tiehack

62 What’s Hot this Winter Critic’s Picks for art, music, dance and more

36 Redneck Sledneck A different kind of snowmobile tour 40 Battle of the Bowls Why Olypmic Bowl and Thunderbowl stand tall

OFF-PISTE 52 A Taste of the Milk Skiing Buttermilk might be easy, but the food’s hard-core

IN EVERY ISSUE 77 Calendar 85 Insider Info

58 Get Inside 5 ways to enjoy Aspen’s other side

90 Menu Guide 96 Parting Shot

PHOTOBY SCOTT MARKEWITZ/ASPEN SKIING CO.

Ajax Rules Why this small mountain skis so big, plus how to get your lunch laps in

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SAT, SAT, FEB FEB 17 17 at at 7:30 7:30 PMPM

GENTRI GENTRI Co-presented Co-presented with with Aspen Aspen Film Film GENTRI GENTRI THU, FEB FEB 15 15 at at 7:30 7:30 PMPM DEL DEL MCCOURY MCCOURY BAND BAND THU, THU, FEB FEB 15 at 15 7:30 atTHU, 7:30 PMPM DEL DEL MCCOURY MCCOURY BAND BAND SUN, SUN, DEC DEC 3 at 3BAND at 5:30 5:30 PM PM THU, THU, FEB FEB 15 15 at at 7:30 7:30 PMPM DEL DEL MCCOURY MCCOURY BAND Co-presented Co-presented with with Co-presented Co-presented with with GENTRI GENTRI Co-presented Co-presented with with Mountainfilm Mountainfilm in Aspen in Mountainfilm Aspen presents presents in Aspen Mountainfilm in Aspen presents presents Wheeler Wheeler Associates Associates Wheeler Wheeler Associates Associates THU, THU, FEB FEB 15in15 at 7:30 7:30 PM PM DEL DEL MCCOURY MCCOURY BAND BAND Mountainfilm Mountainfilm Aspen inat Aspen presents presents STORIES OFOF NEPAL NEPAL WED, WED, DEC DEC 6 Wheeler at6 7:30 atDEC 7:30 PMAssociates Wheeler Associates STORIES STORIES OFOF NEPAL NEPAL WED, WED, DEC 6PM at6 at 7:30 7:30 PMPMSTORIES Co-presented Co-presented with with FRI, FRI, FEB FEB 16 at 16 6:30 at FRI, 6:30 PM PM STORIES STORIES OF OF NEPAL NEPAL WED, WED, DEC DEC 6 at 6 at 7:30 7:30 PM PM FRI, FEB FEB 16 16 at at 6:30 6:30 PM PM Mountainfilm Mountainfilm in Aspen in Aspen presents presents Wheeler Wheeler Associates Associates Mountainfilm Mountainfilm in Aspen in Aspen presents presents FRI, FRI, FEB FEB 16 16 atOF at 6:30 6:30 PMPM Mountainfilm Mountainfilm inDEC Aspen in6Aspen presents presents STORIES STORIES OF NEPAL NEPAL ANPM AN EVENING EVENING WITH WITH ONON THE THE WALL WALL SHORTS: SHORTS: WED, WED, DEC at6 at 7:30 7:30 PM AN AN EVENING EVENING WITH WITH Mountainfilm Mountainfilm in Aspen in Aspen presents presents ON ON THE THE WALL WALL SHORTS: SHORTS: BRUCE BRUCE COCKBURN COCKBURN ANAN EVENING EVENING OFOF FRI, FRI, FEB FEB 16 16 at at 6:30 6:30 PMPM BRUCE BRUCE COCKBURN COCKBURN Co-presented Co-presented with AN AN EVENING EVENING OFin OF AN AN EVENING EVENING WITH WITH CLIMBING CLIMBING ADVENTURE ADVENTURE ON ON THE THE WALL WALL SHORTS: SHORTS: Mountainfilm Mountainfilm Aspen in Aspen presents presents with Wheeler Wheeler Associates Associates TUE, TUE, DEC DEC 12 at 12 6:30 at 6:30 PM PM Co-presented Co-presented with withWITH CLIMBING CLIMBING ADVENTURE ADVENTURE BRUCE BRUCE COCKBURN COCKBURN AN AN EVENING EVENING OF OFSHORTS: AN AN EVENING EVENING WITH ON ON THE THE WALL WALL SHORTS: SAT, FEB FEB 17 at 17 7:30 at Wheeler 7:30 PM PM Associates Wheeler Associates TUE, TUE, DEC DEC 12 12 atADVENTURE at 6:30 6:30 PM PMSAT, Co-presented Co-presented with with CLIMBING CLIMBING ADVENTURE BRUCE BRUCE COCKBURN COCKBURN AN AN EVENING EVENING OF OF

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JASON JASON LATIMER: LATIMER: CURATOR CURATOR STARSHIP STARSHIP FEATURING FEATURING MON, MON, DEC DEC 25 25 at 6:30 PM PM MON, MON, DEC DEC 25at 25 at6:30 at 6:30 6:30 PMPM GARY GARY MULLEN'S MULLEN'S OFOF IMPOSSIBLE IMPOSSIBLE SCIENCE SCIENCE MICKEY MICKEY THOMAS THOMAS ONE ONE NIGHT NIGHT OFOF QUEEN QUEEN SAT, SAT, DEC DEC 30 30 at 4:00 at 4:00 PMPM & 6:30 & 6:30 PMPM THU, THU, DEC DEC 28 28 at at 7:30 7:30 PM PM STARSHIP STARSHIP FEATURING FEATURING STARSHIP STARSHIP FEATURING FEATURING THU, THU, MAR MAR 1 at1 7:30 at FEBRUARY 7:30 PM PM FEBRUARY 20-24 20-24 MICKEY MICKEY THOMAS THOMAS MICKEY MICKEY THOMAS THOMAS NEW NEW YEAR’S YEAR’S EVE EVE LOS LOS LOBOS LOBOS JASON JASON LATIMER: LATIMER: CURATOR CURATOR THU, THU, DEC 28 28 at7:30 at 7:30 7:30 PM PM CELEBRATION CELEBRATION FEATURING FEATURING THU, THU, DEC DEC 28DEC 28 at at 7:30 PM PM FEBRUARY FEBRUARY 20-24 20-24 Co-presented Co-presented with with FEBRUARY FEBRUARY 20-24 20-24 GARY GARY MULLEN'S MULLEN'S THE THE INFAMOUS INFAMOUS OFOF IMPOSSIBLE IMPOSSIBLE SCIENCE SCIENCE Wheeler Wheeler Associates Associates ONE ONE NIGHT NIGHT OFOF QUEEN QUEEN STRINGDUSTERS STRINGDUSTERS SAT, SAT, DEC DEC 30 30 at 4:00 at 4:00 PM PM & 6:30 & 6:30 PM PM JASON JASON LATIMER: LATIMER: CURATOR CURATOR JASON JASON LATIMER: LATIMER: CURATOR FRI, FRI, MAR MAR 2 at2 7:30 at 7:30 PM PM Co-presented Co-presented with with Belly Belly Up Up Aspen Aspen CURATOR THU, THU, MAR MAR 1MULLEN'S at1MULLEN'S at 7:30 7:30 PMPM GARY GARY OF OF IMPOSSIBLE IMPOSSIBLE SCIENCE SCIENCE GARY GARY MULLEN'S MULLEN'S OF SCIENCE SCIENCE SUN, SUN, DEC DEC 31 OF at 31IMPOSSIBLE 7:45 atIMPOSSIBLE 7:45 PMPM ONE ONE NIGHT NIGHT OFOF QUEEN QUEEN NEW NEW YEAR’S YEAR’S EVE SAT, SAT, DEC DEC 30 30 atEVE 4:00 at 4:00 PM PM & 6:30 & 6:30 PMPM ONE THE THE COMMODORES COMMODORES ONE NIGHT NIGHT OF OF QUEEN QUEEN SAT, SAT, DEC DEC 30 30 at at 4:00 4:00 PM PM & 6:30 & 6:30 PM PM LOS LOBOS LOBOS THU, THU, MAR MAR 1 at1 at 7:30 7:30 PMPM SAT, SAT, MAR MAR 3 at3 7:30 at LOS 7:30 PM PM CELEBRATION CELEBRATION FEATURING ASPEN ASPEN HISTORY HISTORY 101101 & & FEATURING THU, THU, MAR MAR 1 at 1 at 7:30 7:30 PM PM Co-presented Co-presented with with NEW NEW YEAR’S YEAR’S EVE EVE THE THE INFAMOUS INFAMOUS ASPEN ASPEN EXTREME EXTREME NEW NEW YEAR’S YEAR’S EVE EVE THE THE MET: MET: LIVE LIVE IN IN HD HD Wheeler Wheeler Associates Associates LOS LOS LOBOS LOBOS Co-presented Co-presented with with CELEBRATION CELEBRATION FEATURING FEATURING STRINGDUSTERS STRINGDUSTERS PUCCINI'S PUCCINI'S TOSCA TOSCA LOS LOS LOBOS Aspen Aspen Historical Historical Society Society & INFAMOUS ACRA & ACRA CELEBRATION CELEBRATION FEATURING FEATURING FRI, FRI, MAR MAR 2LOBOS at2 at 7:30 7:30 PM PM Co-presented Co-presented with with Co-presented Co-presented with with Belly Belly UpUp Aspen Aspen with THE THE INFAMOUS Co-presented Co-presented with Aspen Aspen THU, THU, JAN JAN 11 at 11 5:30 at 5:30 PMPM Co-presented Co-presented with with Wheeler Wheeler Associates Associates THE THE INFAMOUS INFAMOUS SUN, SUN, DEC DEC 31 31 at at 7:45 7:45 PMPMMusic STRINGDUSTERS STRINGDUSTERS Music Festival Festival & School & School Wheeler Wheeler Associates Associates THE COMMODORES COMMODORES FRI, MAR MAR 2 at2 at 7:30 7:30 PMPM STRINGDUSTERS STRINGDUSTERS Co-presented Co-presented with Belly Belly Up Up Aspen Aspen THU, THU, MAR MAR 8 at8 5:30 at THE 5:30 PMFRI, PM Aspen Aspen Laugh Laugh Festival Festival presents presents with FRI, FRI, MAR MAR at2 7:30 at 7:30 7:30 PMPM SAT, SAT, MAR MAR 3 at32 at 7:30 PM PM Co-presented Co-presented with with Belly Belly Aspen Aspen ASPEN ASPEN HISTORY HISTORY 101 101 &Up &Up SUN, SUN, DEC DEC 31 31 at at 7:45 7:45 PM PM MATT MATT ISEMAN ISEMAN UNDER UNDER THE THE STREETLAMP STREETLAMP THE THE COMMODORES COMMODORES FRI, FRI, JAN JAN 12 at 12 7:30 at DEC 7:30 PM PM SUN, SUN, DEC 31 31 at at 7:45 7:45 PMPM ASPEN ASPEN EXTREME EXTREME SAT, SAT, MAR 10 10 at 7:30 atTHE 7:30 PM PM SAT, SAT, MAR MAR 3 atIN 3 at 7:30 7:30 PMPM THE MET: MET: LIVE LIVE IN HD HD THE THE COMMODORES COMMODORES ASPEN ASPEN HISTORY HISTORY 101 101 & & MAR Co-presented Co-presented with with BIRDTALKER BIRDTALKER PUCCINI'S PUCCINI'S TOSCA SAT, SAT, MAR MAR 3TOSCA at3 at 7:30 7:30 PMPM ASPEN ASPEN EXTREME EXTREME Aspen Aspen Historical Historical Society Society && ACRA & ACRA ASPEN ASPEN HISTORY HISTORY 101 101 & Mountainfilm Mountainfilm in Aspen in Aspen presents presents SAT, SAT, JAN JAN 13 at 13 7:30 at 7:30 PM PM THE THE MET: MET: LIVE LIVE ININ HDHD Co-presented Co-presented with with Aspen Aspen Co-presented Co-presented with with THU, THU, JAN JAN 11EXTREME at 11 at 5:30 5:30 PM PMBILL BILL NYE: NYE: SCIENCE SCIENCE GUY GUY ASPEN ASPEN EXTREME PUCCINI'S PUCCINI'S TOSCA Music Festival Festival &LIVE School &TOSCA School SUN, SUN, MAR MAR 11 at 11 6:30 atMusic 6:30 PM PM Aspen Aspen Historical Historical Society Society & ACRA & ACRA THE THE MET: MET: LIVE ININ HDHD Mountainfilm Mountainfilm in Aspen in Aspen presents presents SAT, DEC DEC 23 23 at23 at23 MON, MON, DEC DEC 25SAT, 25 atSAT, 6:30 atSAT, 6:30 PM PM DEC DEC at at

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from the

editor

I KNOW IT’S CLICHÉ, but Aspen in winter really is a magical place. But for me — a longtime resident — the reasons are not those most would assume. Sure, I like the fairy-tale glow of town on a snowy evening. And the glitz and glamour can be fun (in small doses). But there’s so much more to Aspen than meets the eye. Take the skiing: Where else can you ski four mountains in one day (page 28), or find fresh powder on the most unassuming of slopes (page 32). And why does Aspen Mountain, one of the smallest ski areas around, ride like it’s larger than life (page 68)? Locals know, and it’s why we continue to love winter and the anticipation of what the ski season ahead holds. Still, there’s more to Aspen than just the skiing. What makes this resort town more than just a vacation hotspot, in my eyes, are the people and places that are just a little offbeat … A backcountry snowmobile adventure that flashes back to the area’s rich past? We’ve got that (page 36). Killer food choices at the most low-key ski mountain? Give it a taste (page 52). Or off the slopes, activities so diverse it’s hard to know you’re actually on a ski vacation? The options are endless (page 58). For me, all these things come together to make Aspen home; a very special place to live — maybe even a bit magical. I hope you find your own Aspen magic this winter.

Cheers,

JEANNE MCGOVERN

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

“Sure, I like the fairy -tale glow of town on a snowy evening. And the glitz and glamour can be fun (in small doses). But there’s so much more to Aspen than meets the eye.”

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ON THE COVER Chris Tatsuno and Darcy Conover ski powder on Ajax Photo by Matt Power/Aspen Skiing Co.

Winter In Aspen is a publication of

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DEPARTMENT

BUY THE TICKET, TAKE THE RIDE? Breathtaker Coaster the new star of Snowmass Ski Area by erica robbie

Snowmass ski area has upped its game this season with the addition of an alpine coaster.

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

PHOTO COURTESY ASPEN SKIING CO.

WHILE MINOR CHANGES can be found on all four area mountains, you’ll want to fasten your seatbelts in Snowmass. The heart of Aspen Skiing Co.’s $10 million on-mountain adventure center is ready to take your breath away (or at least, so its name would suggest). Love it or hate it, the skiing company’s 5,700-foot “Breathtaker Coaster” is open for business starting this winter.

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“We tried to create somewhat of a campus atmosphere. I think the experience that guests are going to get is pretty cool.” – Peter Santini, Skico director of business development

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

The coaster, as part of Skico’s “Lost Forest” at Snowmass Ski Area, winds through the trees between Gunner’s View and Sandy Park trails and drops more than 400 vertical feet for a seven- to nine- minute ride. While the Lost Forest will also feature a zip-line tour, high-ropes course, climbing wall and miles of new and rerouted hiking and biking trails, the alpine coaster is the only attraction slated to operate year-round. The other amenities will be open solely during the summer season. Snowmass’ Elk Camp area is positioned to serve as the hub for these activities, according to Skico officials. “We tried to create somewhat of a campus atmosphere,” says Peter Santini, Skico director of business development. “I think the experience that guests are going to get is pretty cool.” Another goal behind the Lost Forest is to “get guests into the woods” and “up

close and personal” with nature, he says. Speaking before the Snowmass Town Council at a meeting in mid-October, Snowmass mountain manager Steve Sewell said he’s discussed “something that’s going on at Elk Camp” — whether it’s a new gondola, restaurant or ride — for about a decade now. “But I’m happy to say that I can see the light at the end of the tunnel,” he said, “and this may be the last presentation that I speak to you about Elk Camp.” Skico secured final project approval from the U.S. Forest Service — after several years of planning — on June 20. Construction on the hill commenced the following day, according to Santini. At the Oct. 16 meeting, Sewell reported the coaster at “99.9 percent” completion. He said Skico hopes to open the ride by Dec. 21, if not sooner. “It’s been a challenging project, to say the least,” Sewell said, “but it’s coming together very well.”

PHOTO BY ANNA STONEHOUSE

The Breathtaker Coaster winds through the trees between Gunner’s View and Sandy Park trails and drops more than 400 vertical feet for a sevento nine-minute ride.

PHOTO BY ANNA STONEHOUSE

A PUBLICATION OF THE ASPEN TIMES

INSIDER

TECH TALK:

Local mountains have an app for that

SKIING AND SNOWBOARDING

is getting more interactive and more technical. Want to know how much vertical you covered in a day of skiing? There’s an app for that. How about measuring your max speed? There’s an app for that. Want to brag to your friends about the five Highland Bowl laps you did in one day and have actual proof that you did them? There’s an app for that, too. While being on the mountain still provides the opportunity to unplug and completely disconnect from the world — even if just one lunch lap — for those who want a more interactive experience, there are a multitude of apps to track what you’ve accomplished in a day, month and season. Even if you want to tuck your phone away while you

shred some epic powder or take lap after lap on the beginners slope, once turned on, these apps do all the work for you, allowing you to still get the stats you want without having to break to take your gloves off and mess with your phone. There are an abundance of apps to choose from and more being added to the app store every season. And while some are great for traveling from mountain to mountain, how about one that is AspenSnowmass-specific? Enter the new and vastly improved Aspen Skiing Co. app. Previous iterations of Skico’s app were “clunky and problematic,” and primarily used by locals to count the number of days they had on mountain, said John Lilley, Skico vice president of technology. After surveying guests,

“We are really excited to roll out the Highland Bowl lap tracking. From people tracking their very first bowl lap to people kind of having competitions together ... I think it will be fun to see how people interact with it this year.” – Jessica Jacobi, Skico senior marketing manager, digital services 16

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

hearing suggestions for improvements and looking at what other apps visitors were using on the mountain, Skico revamped its app, having it custom built, which “gives us more control over deciding what features and functionality to roll out,” Lilley said. New features for the 2017-18 winter season include stats and vertical tracking, a section for a loyalty rewards program and the Highland Bowl tracker. “Highland Bowl is one of the most unique features that we have (in AspenSnowmass),” said Jessica Jacobi, Skico senior marketing manager, digital services.

“We are really excited to roll out the Highland Bowl lap tracking. From people tracking their very first bowl lap to people kind of having competitions together … I think it will be fun to see how people interact with it this year,” she said. The app also features maps for each ski area that show exactly where you are on the mountains, making it easier to tell your friends where to find you, an events calendar so you never have to miss out on the fun and, of course, a section that tracks the number of days you’ve been on the mountain. Although, like many apps being introduced on the

COURTESY PHOTOS

by rose anna laudicina

Most popular and useful mountain apps,

in no particular order, ranging from free to $4.99 and up.

SKI TRACKS One of the original winter sports GPS apps to track your daily activity on the slopes, Ski Tracks does it all without the need to use data or have a phone signal. With this app you can track vertical, distance, max speed and even a place to store your photos from the day on the mountain. It’s available for iPhone and Android phones and costs 99 cents.

PEAKFINDER AND PEAKFINDER AR

COURTESY PHOTO

This app doesn’t give you data about your on-mountain performance, but it does help you answer the question, “What peaks are those?” Simply hold up your phone and point its camera in the direction of the peaks in question and using augmented reality, PeakFinder will tell you the name and distance. The app is available for iPhone and Android and costs $4.99. market, the primary audience of Skico’s app is millennials. Jacobi said many of the features target multi-generations and for those who are slow to pick up new technology, there is a number they can call dedicated to answering questions about the app. Lilley and Jacobi said they are excited to see how guests interact with the app this year and are especially looking forward to the future and what new features will be added. “We have a lot of plans for the app,” Lilley said. “You can’t hold a meeting around here without somebody saying, ‘Hey, let’s use the app for this, let’s use the app for that.’ “There is an appetite at the executive and

ownership level to continue to invest and we believe it’s a strategic platform for us, so you are going to see a lot more coming out in the next few years.” This new app is not the only technology improvement Skico is rolling out this year. Like many mountain tracking apps, Skico’s can function in an offline mode and the struggle of keeping up with your friends on social and on the mountain should no longer be as large of an issue with the beefed up Wi-Fi and cell service on the AspenSnowmass mountains. According to a story published in The Aspen Times, part of the onmountain improvements

CAIC

made by Skico this summer included running fiber optic cables along the infrastructure of many of the major chairlifts on all four ski areas. This summer’s work was part of a larger multi-step plan and large investment the company is doing to improve service and connectivity on the mountain. “Most people expect connectivity as a utility,” Lilley said.

If you frequent the Colorado backcountry, you’re going to want this app. The Colorado Avalanche Information Center app gives users an in-depth avalanche forecast for 10 mountain zones across Colorado. It also includes a section for users to submit an observation from their backcountry adventures. This app is free and available for iPhone and Android devices.

SNOCRU If you like to ride with a crew or compete against your friends, this app allows users to find friends and family on the mountain while also challenging them to competitions on the slopes. In terms of performance data, SnoCru tracks many of the same things that Ski Tracks and the AspenSnowmass app do. SnowCru starts off as a free app to download for iPhone and Android, but it does have in app purchases to get additional features.

A PUBLICATION OF THE ASPEN TIMES

INSIDER Steamboat is one of the most recent additions to the Aspen/KSL-affiliated ski areas.

how they

line up ASPEN/ KSL-AFFILIATED SKI AREAS Steamboat, Colo. Winter Park, Colo. Mammoth, Calif. June Mountain, Calif. Bear Mountain, Calif. Snow Summit, Calif. Squaw Valley, Calif. Alpine Meadows, Calif. Deer Valley, Utah Tremblant, Quebec Blue Mountain, Ontario Snowshoe, W.Va. Stratton, Vt.

Affiliate of Aspen Skiing Co., KSL Capital Partners snatches up 13 ski resorts in buying binge by scott condon THE CREATION of a new ski

industry powerhouse during a five-month buying binge in 2017 has raised as many questions as provided answers — it’s obvious something big is happening, it’s just not clear what. Affiliates of Aspen Skiing Co. and KSL Capital Partners started their spree in April with the purchase of Intrawest Resorts Holdings. By the time they acquired Deer Valley in August

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

they had 13 resorts in their fold as well as four close cousins at Aspen Skiing Co., which the Crown family of Chicago kept independently owned. The new company hasn’t been named as of early December press time. No branding or marketing theme had yet been unveiled as the snow started to fall. Skiers and boarders can live without names and marketing campaigns. What they are

dying to know is what kind of season ski pass will be created to compete with Vail Resort’s Epic Pass. And how will it be integrated into Aspen Skiing Co.’s pass options, if at all? It looks like we will have to wait until the 2018-19 season for the answers. David Perry, Skico’s former second-in-command and now president of the new company, previously explained that all pass deals in place for the 13 resorts would be honored during the 2017-18 season. What remains to be seen is whether Aspen Skiing Co. and its new sister company will offer special lift-ticket deals to the related resorts during the season. Before the Crowns and KSL teamed to create the big ski conglomerate, everything was going Vail Resorts’ way. The company was solidifying its position as the ski industry’s

VAIL RESORTS SKI AREAS Vail Mountain, Colo. Beaver Creek, Colo. Breckenridge, Colo. Keystone, Colo. Whistler Blackcomb, B.C. Park City, Utah Heavenly, Calif., Nev. Northstar, Calif. Kirkwood, Calif. Stowe, Vt. Wilmot, Wis. Afton Alps, Minn.

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THE POWER OF MANY

*Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, Snowmass and Buttermilk are independently owned by the Crowns.

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800-pound gorilla. Its latest big moves were the acquisitions of Vermont’s Stowe and British Columbia’s Whistler Blackcomb. That added to an already impressive portfolio that includes Vail Mountain, Beaver Creek, Breckenridge and Keystone in Colorado, Park City in Utah, and Heavenly, North Star and Kirkwood in California. The Epic Pass is good at all those resorts and others under the company’s umbrella. The pass is a tool to keep customers within the Vail Resorts empire. Independent resorts and smaller conglomerates were concerned about the ski industry domination. Aspen Skiing Co. President and CEO Mike Kaplan foreshadowed in December 2015 that the company’s owners were looking for acquisitions that made sense. “Consolidation means more resorts have the resources to compete with us for our target markets,” Kaplan said. He said Skico was “considering opportunities as they arise.” Earlier that ski season, Kaplan told the Aspen Business Luncheon crowd that the ski industry was more competitive than ever and must be treated “with a sense of urgency.” His comments that day provided a glimpse of what can be expected of the Crown’s new company in an era of consolidation. “It’s going to mean much more aggressive capital investment by these companies, both in technology and lift infrastructure, and connecting resorts and really going after the customer with a multiresort pass,” Kaplan said. 20

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

In coming seasons, expect to see the Aspen and Vail consortiums squaring off toe-to-toe like prizefighters — with skiers and snowboarders as the prize. Vail Resorts CEO Robert Katz has publicly welcomed his big, new competitor in the ski industry. During a

competition,” he said later in the teleconference. He added that Vail Resorts had already added the resorts it felt were most important for its portfolio. Mac Clouse, professor of finance at the Daniels College of Business at the University of Denver, told The Aspen Times

"Broadly speaking, we think it's good for the industry. It's always good to have competition." -Robert Katz, Vail Resorts CEO

teleconference June 8 to discuss third-quarter earnings, Katz said investments in infrastructure and discounts on lift tickets build enthusiasm among consumers. “Broadly speaking, we think it’s good for the industry,” Katz said of the Aspen-KSL moves. “It’s always good to have

during the buying binge that Aspen was probably in a position where it had to buy to protect its position in the ski industry. “Vail is seemingly looking to expand, as well, and these are some prime areas that Vail could have taken over,” he said. He predicts the Aspen-KSL consortium will be successful.

“Vail has shown that it works,” Clouse said. “The Aspen group is now going to discover the same kind of benefits that Vail has received.” But is it good for the ski industry to have two dominant companies? Ski Area Management, a trade publication, recently ran an article where it asked top ski resort executives across the country what the top priority should be for National Ski Areas Association, a Denverbased trade association. The top answer was “support resorts of all sizes (but especially smaller ones).” “As a medium-sized independent area, I worry that the interests of all ski areas are not served by the association,” one anonymous executive said. “With all of the consolidation in our industry, the influence that two or three organizations have on all of us is enormous.” Another said, “Focus on bridging the divide between the multi-resort conglomerates and the independent areas.”

GETTY IMAGES

Squaw Valley is one of six California resorts now affiliated wit h Aspen/KSL.

PHOTOGRAPY BY DAVID O. MARLOW

INGRID ANTONI

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by austin colbert SIMI HAMILTON has competed in

the Olympics twice before, so the Aspen native hopes the stage won’t be as intimidating this winter. Still, it’s the Olympics, and there is no denying the magnitude of the event. “The media hype, everything surrounding the Olympics, it just skyrockets this time of year,” Hamilton said this fall during a stop in his hometown. “I’d like to think, in the last decade of racing and having gone to two Olympics before, I’ve learned how to kind of deal with that a little bit better.” Hamilton, 30, is a veteran of the U.S. Nordic team and long has been one of the country’s top male cross-country skiing sprint specialists. He’ll be one of a handful of Aspen athletes looking to shine when the world heads to Pyeongchang, South Korea, for the 2018 Winter Olympic Games from Feb. 9 to 25. Hoping to be included on that list is Noah Hoffman, 28, another Aspen-raised Nordic skier with a long history on the U.S. national team. A disappointing 2016-17 season marred by illness and overtraining left Hoffman off the team to start this season, but he did have World Cup starting rights and the chance to prove he belonged in the conversation. Hoffman competed in his first Olympics in 2014 in Sochi. “I’m more excited this year to start racing than I have been since the Olympic year, at least. I think that’s a really good sign,” Hoffman said in October. “They say

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2017 2018

Simi Hamilton (bib 5) and Noah Hoffman (2) push to catch up with Sweden’s Henrik Forsberg (115), to eventually take first and second place in the 2016 42K Merino Muster Nordic ski race in New Zealand. Hoffman won by 23 seconds over Hamilton.

the Olympics are bigger than anything else we’ve ever done, but you don’t really believe it until you go. And then you realize the World Cup circuit and even World Championships just pale in comparison.” While Hamilton and Hoffman will have to earn their Olympic spot during international competition on the World Cup circuit — the same goes for the alpine skiers, outside of a couple of early-season races — American snowboarders and freeskiers will earn their place through a series of Olympic qualifiers on U.S. soil, including a Grand Prix in Snowmass scheduled for Jan. 10 to 14. And while not included as one of those qualifiers, we can’t forget the annual pilgrimage to Buttermilk Ski Area for the Winter X Games. Aspen will host ESPN’s popular contest for the 17th consecutive year from Jan. 25 to 28, and sport competitions are free and open to the public. X Games will be the last competition for many athletes ahead to the Olympics.

TORIN YATER-WALLACE AND ALEX FERREIRA Aspen’s two freeskiing specialists are among the favorites to earn one of the four Olympic roster spots for the U.S. team. Yater-Wallace, who turned 22 in December, won the first Olympic qualifier at Mammoth at the end of last winter and should be a featured athlete at the Snowmass Grand Prix and again at X Games. Yater-Wallace donned the red, white and blue at the 2014 Olympics in Sochi, while Ferreira, 23, was the first alternate that year and hopes to get a nod this season. “This is a big winter. It’s an Olympic year. Everyone is super excited and fighting for those four spots to go for America,” Ferreira said. “It’s always been a dream to go to the Olympics since I was a kid.”

WILEY MAPLE A veteran of the U.S. alpine ski team, Maple has had a career slowed by numerous injuries. The 27-year-old missed all of the 2016-17 season recovering from knee and back injuries, and has nothing more than honorary status with the team this winter. But, like Hoffman, he did have starting rights for early World Cup races and when healthy has proven he is among the country’s best downhill skiers. The two-time U.S. National Downhill Champion could be a surprise Olympic addition if he can again get his legs under him.

ALSO OF NOTE Alice McKennis (alpine skiing), Galena Wardle (alpine skiing), Chris Corning (snowboarding), Cassidy Jarrell (freeskiing)

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LIMELIGHT TO SPOTLIGHT by erica robbie ASPEN SKIING CO. is “going big” in Snowmass, says president and CEO Mike Kaplan. “We’re looking forward to seeing Snowmass be all it can be,” Kaplan told elected officials at a town meeting this fall, “because I think it’s happening before our very eyes.”

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

Skico, East West Partners and KSL Capital LLC purchased Base Village in December from Related Cos., which had stalled development as a result of the economic recession nearly 10 years ago. One of the most anticipated components to the $600 million project — the largest ski-area village development in North

America — is the future Limelight Hotel. Skico hopes to create a communal living room at the Limelight Snowmass and offer “a real sense of vitality,” Kaplan said. “Whether you’re a local in the community or a visitor from abroad,” Kaplan said, the intent is for anyone to “come celebrate your experiences (and) après ski and plan the next one in the morning for breakfast.” In “just about a year from now, we think that will be a reality,” he added. Construction of the hotel is ontrack to meet its November 2018 opening, according to Limelight hotel managing director Richard Stettner. Two more managers will start at the Snowmass site Jan. 1, he said, with a few more positions beginning between

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The future Snowmass Base Village plaza; the Limelight is the larger red and gray building on the left (next to it on the right is the Community Building with One Snowmass behind it).

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Skico "learned a lot” from its other two hotels — in Aspen and Ketchum, Idaho — and intends to apply these lessons to its third location. The Limelight Snowmass, however, will cater to families and children more so than its other locations. “We’ve made some changes to the plan, some tweaks,” said Skico CEO Mike Kaplan, “where there’s really a kids’ room.” the first and second quarter of next year and fall. Plans for the Limelight Hotel include 100 rooms, 11 residence units, an indoor and outdoor lounge and restaurant, a fitness center, hot tubs and a five-story climbing wall, which will be open to the public. Snowmass Mountain Club, a private club with skier amenities that include parking, lockers and lounge space, will

also be a part of the hotel. Stettner said Skico “learned a lot” from its other two hotels — in Aspen and Ketchum, Idaho — and intends to apply these lessons to its third location. The Limelight Snowmass, however, will cater to families and children more so than its other locations, Kaplan said. “We’ve made some changes to the plan, some tweaks, where

there’s really a kids’ room.” Another key to the Base Village core is the central plaza developers envision as an outdoor gathering space. It will feature an ice-skating rink in the winter and lawn space for events and fire pits and pop-up fountains in the summer. The Limelight; the public plaza; Building 4, which will be a small residential condominium; and Building

6, a designed community-use facility, are first on the agenda, said East West managing partner Andy Gunion. Next up are Buildings 7 and 8, dubbed “One Snowmass,” which are slated to include the Base Village welcome center, a 5,500-square-foot medical clinic, 41 condos and commercial space at ground level. “This is just the gamechanger for Base Village and for Snowmass. It’s pretty rare to be able to bring a hotel like the Limelight, an ice-skating rink, all these amenities, to a resort that’s 50 years old,” Gunion said to the Snowmass Sun at a ceremonial groundbreaking of the development. “These opportunities are not everywhere.”

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Skiers lined up to board “insulated” Lift One chairs at the base of Aspen Mountain, circa 1950. Aspen Historical Society Collection 12/1/2017 9:29:42 AM

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FOUR MOUNTAINS, ONE DAY:

NO PROBLEM Looking for a twist? See if you can turn a ski day into a four-hill adventure by david krause

MUCH LIKE CLIMBERS WHO CHASE the Colorado grail of summiting all of the state’s 14,000-foot peaks in their lifetime, there are those who look to do the same with the state’s ski resorts. That’s certainly a lofty and expensive adventure. And as you think about that lifetime feat, perhaps there is another more attainable objective to try: ski all four Aspen resorts in one day. It’s a quest my then-11-year-old brought up when she was thinking about her first trip with me to the X Games, she carrying her Fifth Grade Passport (still one of the all-time greatest things for a Colorado kid, but that’s for another day). When she first thought of the idea, I thought it was a bit crazy and maybe a waste of a good ski day. Sure, there are plenty of people who ski all four of the Aspen mountains in

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

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the season, but skiing them all in one day? Then again, if your child wants to try something like that and it is their idea, you have to figure out the way to say yes. After about 10 minutes of thinking it through, it was a natural fit in nurturing that love of being on the mountain. So, what’s considered a good representation of being “on the mountain”? For the sake of our experience, we said two top-to-bottom runs at each resort was a good way to legitimize our quest. The next step was figuring out the best way between hills, and it quickly became about using public transportation. In an event like this, time is of the essence. And with the first lift at Snowmass 30

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

starting at 8:30 a.m., you have to take advantage. Hopping on the Village Express for first tracks is a great way to start the adventure (and every morning, frankly). So it was that on the Saturday of the 2013 Winter X Games our trio (me and two offspring) set off, starting at Snowmass and doing the “V”: Village Express up and down then Elk Camp gondola to the quad-lift and back to the base. (Sorry, but the Cirque wasn’t in the cards.) At that point was the time, we figured in our preplanning, that we make the longest bus ride of the day and use the trip to Aspen Mountain to get a snack. Making a couple T-to-B laps at Ajax was a breeze

So, what’s considered a good representation of being “on the mountain”? For the sake of our experience, we said two top-tobottom runs at each resort was a good way to legitimize our quest.

thanks to the roughly 15-minute Silver Queen gondola ride. We even picked up a few friends who couldn’t rouse themselves for first chair at Snowmass but finished the last three legs with us. From Rubey Park it was a quick shuttle to Highlands. That proved to be the tough one as far as getting top-tobottom twice. Exhibition lift over to Loge Peak and down and back up again felt like a lot of sitting (here’s where you can add another twist with hiking the Highland Bowl). Riding that final shuttle to the madness of X Games reinvigorated our spirit. As we boarded the Summit Express out of the Buttermilk base and over the X Games venue, we relaxed knowing

COURTESY PHOTO

Four years later, the celebratory AspenSnowmass sticker still lives on as a reminder of a day well-spent.

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we had the time to complete our goal, and an added a side trip to the Tiehack Express for a few steep runs there. In celebration of accomplishing the quest, we treated ourselves, as we often do, to stickers. As we sauntered into the gift shop in the Bumps building, we were fired up to find a sticker with the names of all four resorts on it. As we stood at the sticker spindle, the cashier kindly asked if we had checked off all four Aspen resorts this season. “No, we did all of them in one day,” my 11-year-old said. He was mildly, sincerely surprised that a preteen and teenager made the rounds in one day with a 40-something dad. “I’ve lived here all my life and haven’t done that,” he said. “Here, the stickers are on me.”

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Every local mountain can delight on a true powder day; you just need to know where to go.

Why Tiehack is powder day secret by jeanne mcgovern

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

moved to Aspen more than 25 years ago. Back then, I was a fairly inexperienced skier and the low-key vibe and uncrowded slopes were ideal for learning the sport. I spent countless weekends carving turns on West and then Main Buttermilk before graduating to the more challenging trails on Tiehack — Racer’s Edge became my go-to as I learned how to go fast and hold an edge; Sterner offered hero bumps, perfect for my budding ski ego. Eventually, after graduating to the blacks and double-blacks of Aspen and Aspen Highlands, my days at Buttermilk and Tiehack became a distant memory. And then I had children ... and back I went to my old stomping grounds. Sometimes I’d skin up and ski down while the kids were at ski school, and most every weekend we’d make a family day out of exploring the nooks and crannies of what I discovered to be a really fun mountain. Of course, my kids continued to grow up — and their skiing skills likewise grew. But we remained fans of Buttermilk and Tiehack.

PHOTO BY MATT POWER/ASPEN SKIING CO.

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Tiehack is perfect place for skiers of all ages and levels to learn how to ski powder.

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

There is enough pitch on Tiehack (and Main Buttermilk, depending on the snowfall and your size/skiing ability) to float top-to-bottom in deep powder. Racer’s Edge, Javelin, Tiehack Trail are your friends, and they don’t get tracked out in minutes.

Ski the trees. Once you begin exploring areas like Timber Doodle Glade and the other pockets of trees on Tiehack, you’ll be amazed at how much terrain lies therein. A bonus, in my opinion, is that the trees are not too tight, making the trails that weave in and out ideal for skiers of all levels. And, like the rest of the mountain, the powder holds well into the day.

Once you begin exploring areas like Timber Doodle Glade and the other pockets of trees on Tiehack, you’ll be amazed at how much terrain lies therein. A bonus, in my opinion, is that the trees are not too tight, making the trails that weave in and out ideal for skiers of all levels.

PHOTO BY HALL WILLIAMS/ASPEN SKIING CO.

My daughter loved the cruisers and frequent hot chocolate stops; my son was drawn to the park and pipe (he hit the big X Games jump last winter to much fanfare). Then, much to our delight, we hit Tiehack on a powder day — and we were sold. The reasons are many, and most locals know them to be true. Here are the things I can share: You can generally get frontrow parking for first tracks; the lot at Tiehack is free and doesn’t fill up as quickly as the one at, say, Aspen Highlands. And if you bus it, a quick trip up the Summit Express on Main Buttermilk and a short traverse to the east gets you right where you need to be.

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Revel in the rebellion. Everyone wants to be there when they drop the rope on Walsh’s, or be the first one up (and down) Highland Bowl on a powder day. But sometimes it’s nice to buck the trend. If you prefer to be your own skier or rider, Tiehack is the place to go. Chances are the few folks you run into will be kindred souls in this regard. Now I’d be a liar if I said I always follow these rules and head to Tiehack on a powder day; in fact, I’ve had some of my best days in the deep on Ajax before heading to the office. But, if you’re looking for an insider’s tip, try Tiehack. It won’t disappoint.

Jan. 5, 2017: Alone in the powder before work. Life is good.

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A STEP BACK IN TIME…

by jeanne mcgovern

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

ASPEN IS A WORLD FILLED WITH GLITZ AND GLAMOUR.

Even for those of us who have lived and worked here for years, it’s hard to ignore the spectacle that is our resort town at times. So when The Aspen Times photographer Anna Stonehouse and I set out for a backcountry snowmobile tour with Western Adventures, it was hard for me to shake the “here we go again” feeling of a tourist-centric day ahead. The minute we turned onto Allen Way, set just above the infamous Woody Creek Tavern, I knew I was in for something different. And, at least in this instance, first impressions were right on target.

PHOTO BY ANNA STONEHOUSE

AND INTO THE BACKCOUNTRY

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Snowmobile guide Trevor Nye serves up hot chocolate for guests at a backcountry cabin.

Western Adventures proprietor Howard Vagneur’s very presence — hardened edges, solid spirit, soft-spoken — speaks volumes about the company he runs ... and the adventure that lies ahead.

PHOTO BY ANNA STONEHOUE

THE EXPERIENCE

The welcome center for Western Adventures, if you will, pretty much tells the tale of the business — if you look at the details. Trailers and trucks, all run down just to the point of being cool, dot the landscape. A long broken-down tractor, with original ZG license plates, sums up the scene: truly unique, truly original and undeniably un-Aspen. And then, proprietor Howard Vagneur (indeed a relation to Aspen Times’ columnist Tony Vagneur, among dozens and dozens of other Vagneurs who still call the Roaring Fork Valley home) saunters up. His

very presence — hardened edges, solid spirit, soft-hearted nature — speaks volumes about the company he runs ... and the adventure that lies ahead. As we head into the trailer that serves as the office/dressing room/orientation center, things become even more clear: We are in a time warp. Onesies line the wall, and Howard is not shy to tell us who has worn them (everyone from supermodels to X Games celebs); similarly, a corkboard is dotted with photos, worn at the edges, of those who have ventured into the surrounding backcountry with Vagneur and his familyrun operation. At the side of

the board is a cartoon, penned with dozens of signatures of those who have hit the trails with Western Adventures: Robert DeNiro, Randy and Dennis Quaid, Perry Farrell — the list goes on and on. But Vagneur will tell you that’s just the tip of the iceberg. “Oh, we’ve had ’em all out here — Lucille Ball, Buddy Hackett, Christie Brinkley, X Games athletes ... they all like a good time out here.” At this point, we meet our guide for the day. Trevor Nye, 29, was born and raised in the Roaring Fork Valley; he’s related to Vagneur — and he has been exploring these A PUBLICATION OF THE ASPEN TIMES

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mountains since he was old enough to walk and guiding groups like ours since he was old enough to work. So as we pile into the weathered Chevy Suburban that will take us to our next stop, I realize the reason this particular “tourist” activity isn’t so touristy after all. The people we are with.

THE TERRAIN

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

ABOVE: Guide Trevor Nye preps his clients for the day ahead. BELOW: Open powder fields above Lenado welcome novice and experienced snowmobilers.

PHOTOS BY ANNA STONEHOUSE

As the Suburban rumbles along the road toward Lenado and the backcountry above, the resort town of Aspen — and all that it represents — quietly fades away. Nye, with a thick chew in his cheek and accent that perfectly blends Colorado cowboy with redneck sledneck, tells us the history of the landscape that surrounds us. Lenado was once a booming mining town; the year-round population, which now hovers around eight (yes, eight), swelled to 2,000 at some point before the turn of the century. Later, it was a logging town; the trees that loomed over us were new growth in the grand scheme of things. After we pass through the town of Lenado and up a few loose switchbacks, we get to the end of the road: a place where cars can no longer travel, but where snowmobiles can no longer be staged. It is, in a nutshell, a political time-bomb for those — like Howard Vagneur — who live and breathe the fate of Lenado. But for today, the problem is resolved: We take a fully rigged John Deere machine 2.1 miles up the road to a fleet of waiting snowmobiles. After being instructed on how to start, stop, speed up and slow down these state-

“There’s nothing better than riding back here — the trails, the views ...” –Tevor Nye, snowmobile guide

After winding through tight tree trails, guests let their machines fly through an open field.

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of-the-art machines, the soft-spoken but engaging Nye leads us up and around the snow-covered hills — with a hot-cocoa stop at a rustic cabin along the way. Nye’s appreciation for the beauty of what we are seeing is apparent; at one stop on the trail, we can see all four ski areas. Nye’s passion for snowmobiling equals his deep appreciation for nature; he talks about trips to Wyoming, cliff drops on his machine and guests he has seen both crash and crush the trails we are speeding along. “There’s no better riding than back here — the

trails, the views, ...” says Nye, noting the groups he guides range in size from six to 60, and that all have their upsides. For Times’ photographer Stonehouse and I — who have had the luxury of many backcountry adventure assignments — as well as our tour mates, we can’t help but agree: It’s not the landscape that is making the day so amazing. It’s the perfect Colorado combination of adrenaline and adventure, people and passion, nurture and nature. It’s not something that is easily repeated, but always appreciated.

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MOVE OVER, HIGHLAND BOWL ... Olympic Bowl and Thunderbowl have something to say

Trees and powder can be found in plenty of places; a localsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; favorite is Oly Bowl on Aspen Highlands.

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

PHOTO BY JORDAN CURET/ASPEN SKIING CO.

by benjamin welch

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IF THE 45-MINUTE TREK UP Highland

Bowl is too much adventure for you, fear not: You can still tell family and friends back home that you “did the bowl” as long as you remain unspecific. Take the Olympic Bowl for a backcountry experience. Get face shots two days after a storm in the Powder Bowl. Send it down the hard-packed Thunderbowl and catch a glimpse of some of the biggest names in ski racing. Pizza your way through your first run down the Jerome Bowl. Pop into Sherwood Forest and stumble upon people smoking a bowl. Though Highland Bowl is the extreme escapade many are seeking, it’s not for everyone. The other bowls at Aspen Highlands offer thrills of their own for intermediate ... to advanced skiers and snowboarders. “There’s no hiking, and later in the day in the warmer months the Y zones are cooked, but Oly is just getting good,” said Matt Lanning, a local ski enthusiast who spends nearly every in season.

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

Olympic Bowl is 14 acres of terrain between the top of the Cloud Nine and Loge Peak chairlifts. To access it, ride Loge and follow the main run, Broadway, across to the top of Face of Oly. Drop the ridge into the trees at skier’s left for tight gullies, gladed runs and wide-open advanced terrain. Double-black experts should grab a bonus bowl and drop into No Name (there’s a sign, which is pretty ironic) and float through a steep-and-deep of aspen and fir trees. Self-ascribed “Highlands rat” Jennifer Wittmer describes her favorite run at Highlands: “Any powder day I’m heading for the trees at Aces & Eights, but then cutting above the catwalk through Why and Why Not to get more variety in terrain. It’s easy to find fresh at noon, even.” She warns that “boarders need to pick up some speed if you can, because that catwalk has a hump.” There could be a new bowl in Aspen Highlands’ pantry in the next few years, too. Efforts are underway to develop terrain in the Loge Bowl, adjacent to the No Name Bowl, that will attract extreme

skiers. This is currently a closed section within Skico’s permit area, but more studies and control measures will need to be taken before the rope is dropped. On the opposite side of the mountain is Thunderbowl, the training area for Roaring Fork Valley children and the world’s greatest skiers alike. Skip the longer line heading farther up the mountain and access this area by the Thunderbowl chairlift, conveniently located next to the main Exhibition lift, or by waxing your snowsport apparatus of choice and bombing onto T-Lazy-7 Catwalk from higher up the hill. Thunderbowl is home to the Aspen Valley Ski and Snowboard Club’s Stapleton Training Center, where professional race teams from around the globe train on the same space as (and work around the schedules of ) the stars of tomorrow: young Roaring Fork Valley athletes. The Town Race Series, which will kick off its 37th season this year and is the oldest running town race in North America, also is hosted throughout the winter in this area.

PHOTO BY DAN BAYER/ASPEN SKIING CO.

Highlands Merry-GoRound restaurant serves as center point for dips into both Oly Bowl and Thunderbowl.

JORDAN CURET/ASPEN SKIING CO.

While Highland Bowl, and the prayer flags at its summit, may beckon most, locals know secret stashes can be found elsewhere: “Any powder day I’m heading for the trees at Aces & Eights, but then cutting above the catwalk through Why and Why Not to get more variety in terrain,” says self-ascribed “Highlands rat” Jennifer Wittmer. “It’s easy to find fresh at noon, even.”

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“That, to me, is like heaven. It’s wide open and gentle terrain, there’s so many acres and there’s nobody skiing it. .... On a 6-inch powder day when everyone else is trying to get up to the places that are closed, just take Thunderbowl lift up three or four times and have a lot of fun.” –Kevin Hagerty, Aspen Highlands mountain manager

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

“Can you imagine being a 16-year-old kid getting to ski next to Svindal, Hirscher or even Mikaela Shiffrin?” said Dave Stapleton, development officer at AVSC and namesake of the training center. The former U.S. Ski Team racer grew up in the Thunderbowl terrain and even broke his arm as a youngster skiing moguls to reach the GS course. The club celebrated its 80th year last season, and is one of the only winter-sports centers in the country to offer training in all five disciplines: alpine, freestyle, nordic, adaptive and snowboarding. More than 2,000 area children, about a third of which are competitive athletes, go through the program annually. AVSC provides scholarships for most of them, with a goal of giving all interested youth the opportunity to learn to ski or snowboard. “There’s no comparison. As far as what we have — the length, the terrain, the conditions — we believe we have the No. 1 training venue in North America, if not the world,” Stapleton said. “You’ve got the ski run itself, you’ve got the conditions we can maintain ourselves, and there’s the partnership with Aspen Skiing Co.” And it’s right there at Aspen Highlands. Starting at the top of the Golden Horn run above Thunderbowl and heading toward Highlands Village, there’s enough terrain to link a two-run downhill course that’s FIS approved (though it’s not a race that’s run). A mixture of steepness, flats, rolls and pitches across one of the widest runs of Aspen Skiing Co.’s four mountains offers 33 acres of varying territory, whether you’re trying to set a speed personal-best on the groomers or navigate some soft moguls on a bluebird day. Lanning advises dipping into the Golden Horn Woods

“for some route-finding and picking your way through variable steep terrain.” “That, to me, is like heaven,” said Kevin Hagerty, Aspen Highlands mountain manager. “It’s wide open and gentle terrain, there’s so many acres there and nobody skiing it. ... On a 6-inch powder day when everyone else is trying to get up to the places that are closed, just take Thunderbowl lift up three or four times and have a lot of fun.” Looking for a Highlands gem? Hiding in plain sight is the Powder Bowl, to skier’s right of Thunderbowl at the intersection with Golden Horn. It’s also serviced by the private Five Trees lift, used by the Aspen High School team. A race course that’s set up for much of the year can obscure the entrance to Powder Bowl, but finding a signaler and cutting through the course unlocks a snippet of the mountain you’ll probably have all to yourself. “It’s got a nice north-facing aspect, doesn’t get too bumped up and is usually pretty good for some powder turns,” Hagerty said. Ready to go bowling? Hit all the routes by following in the footsteps (err… ski tracks) of competitors in the Battle in the Bowls, a race where people would attempt to ride a course designed to get racers across all of Highlands’ bowls. Including a pair of Highland Bowl laps, racers would plan a route across the course that included hiking, lift-riding and linking trails as efficiently as possible to knock out the runs in the fastest time. The Battle in the Bowls ended in 2014, but its spirit lives on in the Highlands powder hounds who, by exploring bowl laps outside of Highlands’ famed peak, know where the goods are all season long.

PHOTO BY SCOTT MARKEWITZ/ASPEN SKIING CO.

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WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

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WHILE ASPEN MIGHT BE the reason you come to the Roaring Fork Valley, it’s not the only town worth visiting while you’re here. Aspen’s “downvalley” neighbors — Basalt, Carbondale and Glenwood Springs — each offer a unique take on our unique world-class resort area. A favorite among many seeking a bit of mountain-town funkiness is Carbondale. Situated about 30 miles down Highway 82 from Aspen, Carbondale is authentic Colorado. Jump on a RFTA bus and check it out for a day; here are our suggestions on what not to miss. Begin your day with coffee and conversation at Bonfire Coffee, a cozy coffee shop on Main Street that serves up fine coffee drinks, an exceptional selection of breakfast items and plenty of charm (if you’re looking for a more hearty breakfast, visit their sister restaurant, the Village Smithy). Then, stroll downtown for some excellent window shopping — and some affordable real shopping. Carbondale is home to plenty of momand-pop shops, unique boutiques, fine art, sports stores, and more. For lunch, your options are endless. From a quick meal at Fat Belly Burger to authentic Mexican fare at MiCasita to pizza at Peppinos, it’s easy to find a quick, quality bite. Later in the day, get outside and enjoy the Colorado sunshine. It’s generally warmer downvalley, but there are still plenty of winter activities to explore. A few to consider: Nordic skiing at Spring Gulch, ice skating on the outdoor pond, fly fishing the Crystal River, or a 30 minute hike up Mushroom Rock otherwise known

• •

as Red Hill Recreation Area. If you prefer to get your adrenaline rush indoors, yoga classes are hit with True Nature Healing Arts studio or Kula yoga they both can get you set up, or visit the Carbondale Rec Center for an indoor climbing wall. By now it’s happy hour, and Carbondale delivers. While there are plenty of bars at which to find a stool, we suggest going full Bonedale with stops at Roaring Fork Beer Co. their new tasting room is now called Batch located on Main St. or Marble Distillery. Both locally owned and operated establishments feature handcrafted spirits/beers made in Colorado, for Coloradoans (and those who visit our fine state). Follow up your late-afternoon imbibing with dinner at one of many fine restaurants — some argue the Carbondale dining scene is on par, if not better, than Aspen’s. The Pig and Silo are new to the scene, while staples like Phat Thai, Allegria, and the Pour House never disappoint. Kenichi will be coming into the scene opening up a second restaurant on Main Street as well. And, before heading back upvalley, catch a bit of Carbondale’s nightlife. If it’s the first Friday of the month your hit the jackpot, as First Fridays are always a strolling party through downtown. Otherwise, look for live music at places like Steve’s Guitars, live theater at Thunder River Theater Co., movies at the Crystal Theatre, trivia and bingo nights at Carbondale Beer Works, and more. Again, Carbondale might not have the name recognition of Aspen, but locals know it’s got just as much to offer.

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A PUBLICATION OF THE ASPEN TIMES

off-piste

WHY BUTTERMILK TASTES SO GOOD by jeanne mcgovern

SOMETIMES, THE BEST culinary treasures are found off the

beaten path. In Aspen, a trio of restaurants at Buttermilk — which is often the last mountain people think of when it comes to dining and imbibing — fits that bill. In fact, many locals seek out the Mongolian grill at the Cliffhouse, an après-ski beer on the sun-drenched Bumps deck or authentic barbecue at Home Team at the Inn at Aspen. And, as we all know, locals often know best; here’s a taste of some insider info.

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

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You can own McLain Flats’ largest, most private land holding with 153 mesa top acres, 116 are gentile, rolling, irrigated acres that fed Aspen’s silver miners and the entire property enjoys incredible views including Aspen Mountain, Mt Hayden, Castle Peak, Buttermilk, Aspen Highlands, Snowmass Mountain, Triangle Mt. Woody Creek, Lenado Valley, and Red Mountain. Build your dream home, guest cabin, and barn plus agricultural buildings without HOA oversight. The property features numerous excellent building sites offering a wide mix of views, topography and water feature options. The senior water rights of 1195 shares of the Salvation Ditch can be used for streams, ponds, lakes, forests or sold. For a private tour please call Robert Ritchie. Was $12,500,000, reduced to $9,500,000. Please call for all your real estate needs

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OFF-PISTE

THE CLIFFHOUSE Situated at the top of Buttermilk/ Tiehack, where the ski area’s three main lifts essentially merge, the Cliffhouse is a classic on the outside but holds a twist on the inside. Housed in a rustic wood building with picnic tables and dramatic views flanking its east side, the Cliffhouse is a picture-perfect place to grab a bite and enjoy dramatic views of Pyramid Peak and the entire Maroon Creek Valley.

FULL MOON FUN Skin or hike up to the Cliffhouse under the full moon this winter and you’ll get your just rewards — live music, free hot chocolate around the “Cowboy Cauldron” firepit (from 5 to 6 p.m.), and a la carte dinner specials, snacks and cash bar inside the Cliffhouse. But remember, you have to skin/hike up and ski, board or hike down (no sleds and no lifts!), and you must stay on the designated routes; headlamps and reflective gear are recommended. Dates: Jan. 2, Jan. 31, March 2 and March 31.

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

PHOTOS BY DAN BAYER (TOP) AND NATHANIEL WILDER/ASPEN SKIING CO.

Inside, though, is where the secret lies: the ultra-popular Mongolian grill — where you choose your own veggies, protein and sauces, and let the chefs work their magic. Another unique twist: a fresh juice bar and one of the best selections of high-protein grab-and-go snacks like super-food grain salads and energy bars (all inspired by Tiehack uphillers, but great for skiers and riders, too).

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COURTESY PHOTOS

With locations in the Southern “lowcountry,” Home Team made the move to the mountains in 2016; the Aspen outlet offers the same rustic feel but with the added ski-town influence of a stone-covered fireplace, cozy sitting nook, outdoor fire pit, live music and breathtaking views.

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The food, though, remains down home: ribs and wings (don’t forget the death relish), pulled pork and tater tots (the dipping sauce is key), nachos and more are complemented by an array of barbecue sauces. And the 25-seat bar, with local brews, craft cocktails and big-screen TVs aplenty, is an idea place to gather with friends for some après-ski fun.

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BUMPS AT BUTTERMILK Want to check out the adrenaline-fueled action at Buttermilk with a beer in your hand? Bumps is the place. Located at the base of the main mountain, the deck here is expansive and perfectly situated for long afternoons spent lounging in the Colorado sun. And, it’s prime viewing for the superpipe — the central focus of the Winter X Games and other local competitions. The food doesn’t disappoint, either. Always a locals’ favorite: made-to-order pastas and salads (trust us when we say a large-size serving will fuel you — and perhaps even your ski mate — for a day in the park or on the powder). Another tip: try the bread, with a homemade soup or as a snack… Bumps is home to the only on-mountain bakery in the Aspen-Snowmass area.

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

PHOTOS BY DAN BAYER (TOP) AND JORDAN CURET/ASPEN SKIING CO.

OFF-PISTE

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OFF-PISTE

The charming streets of downtown Aspen are ideal for shopping (or even window shopping).

Five ways to stay warm — and explore Aspen’s other side — this winter by jeanne mcgovern

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

best known for its worldclass skiing, but look a little deeper and you’ll see why this resort town is just as amazing as the slopes that surround it. “Aspen has it all, from shopping and spas to dining and nightlife,” said Debbie Braun, president and CEO of the Aspen Chamber Resort Association. “We love when our winter guests find just as much to do off the slopes as on the slopes; in fact, we pride ourselves on just how wonderful our town really is.”

With that in mind, we set out to find the top five ways to stay warm — and explore all that Aspen has to offer — this winter season.

SHOP ‘TIL YOU DROP (OR AT LEAST DO A LITTLE WINDOW SHOPPING): Some

have called Aspen the Rodeo Drive of the Rockies, and the reputation is well deserved. But stroll the streets of downtown Aspen you’ll find more than just name brands like Gucci, Prada and LuLu (though you’ll find those, too). A few of our favorites

PHOTO BY JEREMY SWANSON/ASPEN SKIING CO.

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Bloody Mary brunch on a lazy Sunday? The St. Regis Aspen’s Bloody Snapper is always a good call. Other faves: Hickory House, JBar and Home Team BBQ.

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for off beat, Aspen-only, unique gifts and other finds: Aspen Emporium & Flying Circus, this wild boutique (as the name suggests) has it all, including offerings from local artisans; the Aspen Thrift Shop, this second-hand store is like no other in the world, with some truly fine clothing, housewares and more (and all proceeds benefit local nonprofits — a gift in itself ); and Ute Mountaineer, where locals go to get their outdoor gear, advice and more.

EAT, DRINK & BE MERRY: Hot toddy by the fire after skiing? Bloody Mary brunch on a lazy Sunday? Five-course dinner to celebrate the occasion? Late-night concert to cap off a funfilled day? Aspen has all of this — and a whole lot more. Truly, when it comes to living the good life, Aspenites (and those who visit) know how to do it right. A PUBLICATION OF THE ASPEN TIMES

OFF-PISTE

SOMETHING SPECIAL:

It’s hard to think of a resort town with more special events on the calendar than Aspen. From Winter X Games and the Grand Prix to the 12 Days of Christmas and New Year’s Eve fireworks, there seems to be a celebration of some sort every weekend in Aspen. Laugh Fest, Winter Words, JAS Café, Bud Light Hi-Fi Series, Winterskol — seriously, the list goes on and on and on…

RELAX…IT’S ASPEN:

From the spa life to special events, Aspen really does have it all: “We love when our winter guests find just as much to do off the slopes as on the slopes; in fact, we pride ourselves on just how wonderful our town really is.” –Debbie Braun, president and CEO of the Aspen Chamber Resort Association

PHOTOS BY SETH BECKTON (TOP) AND COURTESY OF THE ASPEN SKIING CO.

You’ll notice the bumper sticker plastered on cars around town, and we mean it. To get your Zen on, and take a welldeserved break from skiing the bumps, hit the spa. In Aspen, Remede at the St. Regis is tops; in Snowmass, the Spa at Viceroy Snowmass can’t be beat. And there are plenty of other ways to take things down a notch: yoga classes (offered at several studios and atop the mountain); salon services (some of the best stylists in Colorado call Aspen home); or even the local recreation centers offer a respite from the cold.

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

A BREATH OF FRESH AIR: OK, this seems to

defeat the idea of getting out of the cold, but on a bluebird Colorado day there is nowhere else youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re going to want to be than outside. A few suggestion, all fun and free, that are followed up perfectly with a hot chocolate: sledding at Whoa Nelly Hill!, snowshoeing with a naturalist from the Aspen Center for Environmental Studies, ice skating at the downtown rink or the pond at the Aspen Recreation Center. Or, just get outside, build a snowman, and create your own mountain memories.

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A PUBLICATION OF THE ASPEN TIMES

ENTERTAINMENT

CRITIC’S PICKS by andrew travers

ART “HOME: UNPACKING SELF AND PLACE,” The Art Base, Basalt, through Dec. 22 SARAH CAIN, Elk Camp Restaurant, Snowmass Ski Area, through September 2018 “SMALL WONDERS,” Aspen Chapel Gallery, Through Jan. 7 “iSHOW,” Red Brick Center for the Arts, Dec. 7-Jan. 5 “RITUAL,” TONY FEHER, MESCHAC GABA, YUJI AGEMATSU, ANNE COLLIER Aspen Art Museum, Dec. 15, 2017-Nov. 25, 2018

DARA FRIEDMAN, “MOTHER DRUM,” Aspen Art Museum, Dec. 15-May 13 ROBERT GOBER, Aspen Art Museum, Dec. 15-May 13 “AND STILL I RISE,” BUNNY AND CHARLES BURSON, Patton-Malott Gallery, Anderson Ranch Arts Center, Snowmass Village, Dec. 19-Jan. 15

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

Dec. 15, 2017 through June 10, 2018 The New York-based artist will fill the two ground-floor gallery spaces at the Aspen Art Museum with a new exhibition of paintings that draw on American popular culture. Celebrities, pine-tree air fresheners, smiley faces and other familiar images are filtered through Lowman’s moody and dark vision for what promises to be a high point of the crowded visual arts calendar in Aspen this winter.

WINTERSKULPT AT WINTERSKOL, downtwon Aspen, Jan. 11-Jan. 13

THOMAS STRUTH, Aspen Art Museum, Jan. 19-June 10

7 BRITISH ARTISTS, Galerie Maximillian, Feb. 17-April 30

VALLEY VISUAL ART SHOW, R2 Gallery, Carbondale, Jan. 12-Feb. 16

RICHARD WIETH, Elliot Yeary Gallery, Feb. 1-March 8

STANLEY BELL AND TAKEO HIROMITSU, R2 Gallery, Carbondale, March 30-April 27

COURTESY PHOTO

ZOE CRUSHER, “PROSPECTING PALM FRONDS,” Aspen Art Museum, Dec. 15-May 13

NATE LOWMAN

WILLIAM FINNEGAN Presented by Aspen Words March 20, Paepcke Auditorium The New Yorker staff writer and Pulitzer Prize-winning author of the 2015 surfing memoir “Barbarian Days” poetically captured the passion and the way of life behind the surfing life. The acclaimed book follows Finnegan through his world travels chasing waves but also uncovers something much deeper and a philosophy of living that will be familiar to many a local ski bum.

The Art of Swiss Living

BOOKS ALICE MCDERMOTT, PRESENTED BY ASPEN WORDS, Paepcke Auditorium, party, Jan. 9 TRACY K. SMITH, PRESENTED BY ASPEN WORDS, Paepcke Auditorium, Jan. 23 CRISTINA BAKER KLINE, PRESENTED BY ASPEN WORDS, Paepcke Auditorium, Feb. 20 LUIS ALBERTO URREA, PRESENTED BY ASPEN WORDS, Paepcke Auditorium, April 3

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A PUBLICATION OF THE ASPEN TIMES

ENTERTAINMENT

DANCE ASPEN SANTA FE BALLET’S “THE NUTCRACKER,” Aspen Distrct Theatre, Dec. 9 & 10 ASPEN SANTA FE BALLET, “SILENT GHOST,” “HUMA ROJO,” “DREAM PLAY,” Aspen District Theatre, Jan. 20 AILEY II, Aspen District Theatre, Feb. 16

COMEDY HEATHER MCDONALD, Wheeler Opera House, Dec. 17 NICK SWARDSON, Belly Up, Jan. 5-6 TIFFANY HADDISH, ASPEN LAUGH FESTIVAL, Wheeler Opera House, Feb. 24

FILM BEST OF THE NEW YORK INTERNATIONAL CHILDREN’S FILM FESTIVAL, The Temporary at Willits, Dec. 9

WARREN MILLER’S “LINE OF DESCENT,” Wheeler Opera House Jan. 6 ASPEN FILM ACADEMY SCREENINGS, Dec. 19-30 ASPEN SHORTSFEST, April 3-8

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

‘CARNAVAL,’ AN EVENING WITH JOYCE YANG March 24, Aspen District Theatre Two Aspen favorites have joined forces for a groundbreaking collaboration with the dancers of Aspen Santa Fe Ballet. Pianist Joyce Yang, the Van Cliburn competition winner and frequent star of the Aspen Music Festival’s summer season, and choreographer Jorma Elo, whose works have been a backbone of the Aspen Santa Fe repertoire, have worked together on an adaptation of Robert Schumann’s “Carnaval.” Yang will perform live onstage for the world premiere in Aspen.

PHOTO BY MICHELE CARDAMONE

ON THE WALL SHORTS: AN EVENING OF CLIMBING ADVENTURE, Wheeler Opera House, Dec. 12

JOIN US TO EXPLORE YOUR ROARING FORK WATERSHED photo by Hannah Jones

Since 1996, Roaring Fork Conservancy has inspired people to explore, value, and protect the Roaring Fork Watershed. Please visit www.roaringfork.org for our upcoming programs and events.

WATERSHED EXPLORATIONS

"CHARLIE BROWN CHRISTMAS"

• Emma Campfire and Winter Walk • Decoding Snowpack on McClure Pass • Annual River Float • Fryingpan Cleanup

• Ruedi Resevoir and Dam Tour • Beginner’s & Women’s Fly Fishing Clinics • Birding Maroon Creek Wetlands

Roaring Fork Conservancy is a 501(c)3 non-profit organization www.roaringfork.org | (970) 927-1290 | info@roaringfork.org

Wheeler Opera House, December 23

THEATER “CONSTELLATIONS,” Thunder River Theater Co., Carbondale, Dec. 7-17

ARTHUR MILLER’S “THE PRICE,” Thunder River Theatre Co., Feb. 22-March 10

“CHARLIE BROWN CHRISTMAS,” Wheeler Opera House, Dec. 23

“CINDERELLA,” PRESENTED BY ASPEN HIGH SCHOOL, Aspen District Theatre, March 15-18

NEIL BERG’S “BROADWAY HOLIDAY!” Wheeler Opera House, Dec. 25 GLENWOOD VAUDEVILLE REVUE, Holiday 2017, Thursdays-Sundays, through Jan. 6

THE MET LIVE IN HD: ROSSINI’S “SEMIRAMIDE,” Wheeler Opera House, March 22

A PUBLICATION OF THE ASPEN TIMES

ENTERTAINMENT

LCD SOUNDSYSTEM Jan. 25 & 26, Belly Up Aspen Jan. 27, X Games

James Murphy and his vaunted dance-rock band appeared to be done for good after their famed farewell concert at Madison Square Garden in 2011. But LCD Soundsystem’s surprise 2017 reunion and its fourth album, “American Dream,” proved the band still has a lot to say and plenty of shows to play. In the most anticipated musical event of Aspen’s winter, the band will headline the X Games music festival at Buttermilk after a two-night stand at Belly Up.

GARY NUMAN, Belly Up, Dec. 19

THE WAILERS, Jan. 21

THE REVIVALISTS, Belly Up, Dec. 2 & 3

LEANN RIMES, Belly Up, Dec. 20

THE DEL MCCOURY BAND, Wheeler Opera House, Dec. 6

STARSHIP FEATURING MICKEY THOMAS, Wheeler Opera House, Dec. 28

METHOD MAN & REDMAN, Belly Up, Jan. 24, X Games, Jan. 27

LUPE FIASCO, Belly Up, Dec. 9 ATMOSPHERE, Belly Up, Dec. 15 ASPEN CHORAL SOCIETY PRESENTS HANDEL’S “MESSIAH,” Snowmass Chapel, Dec. 14, Basalt Middle School, Dec. 15, Wheeler Opera House, Dec. 16

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

DEE DEE BRIDGEWATER, JAS Cafe at the Cooking School of Aspen, Dec. 29 & 30 INFAMOUS STRINGDUSTERS, Wheeler Opera House, Dec. 31 BRETT DENNEN, Belly Up, Jan. 13

MARTIN GARRIX, X Games, Jan. 26, Belly Up, Jan. 27 MARSHMELLO, Belly Up & X Games, Jan. 28 STS9, Belly Up, Feb. 1-3 BIG WILD, Belly Up, Feb. 8 CHRIS ROBINSON BROTHERHOOD, Belly Up, Feb. 13

BRUCE COCKBURN, Wheeler Opera House, Feb. 17 MIGUEL, Belly Up, Feb. 27 MARTIN SEXTON & KELLER WILLIAMS, Belly Up, March 10 PIANIST INON BARNATON, Harris Concert Hall, Feb. 28 VIOLINIST WILLIAM HAGEN, Harris Concert Hall, March 10 PACIFICA QUARTET, Harris Concert Hall, March 15 GALACTIC, Belly Up, March 18

COURTESY PHOTO

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Small mountain,

big skiing

How Ajax earns its hard-core rep by Scott Condon

Steeps, deeps and plenty of adrenalinepumped skiing makes Aspen Mountain a favorite among locals and visitors. PHOTOS BY SCOTT MARKEWITZ, JESSE HOFFMAN AND FRANK SHINE

overing just 675 acres, Aspen Mountain is dwarfed by its sister resorts Aspen Highlands and Snowmass. But the trail maps and statistics don’t begin to tell the whole story. Aspen Mountain skis so much bigger to the legions who know it intimately and newcomers willing to take the time to explore and learn. Aspen’s queen mountain mesmerizes like a siren’s song. “It drives me crazy when people say, ‘That’s such a small mountain,’” said Tony Vagneur, who has skied Aspen Mountain for 67 years, starting soon after he could walk. The mountain boasts the steep-and-deep trails on the far eastern side, moguls on the Ridge of Bell Mountain, untold numbers of tree shots on the Back, Face and Shoulder of Bell, and the short, steep runs in the Mine Dumps that offer powder shots one minute and challenging moguls the next. There are immaculately groomed cruisers at the top and thigh-burning, top-to-bottom screamers on Copper and Spar Gulch. And then there’s the western side of the mountain, which offers everything from gullies either choked with powder or layered in moguls, pucker-inducing steeps shots through the trees on Traynor Ridge and a series of trails that dovetail so nicely they host America’s Downhill ski races. Vagneur said he tells himself every winter that he’s going to branch out and ski the 1,070 acres at Highlands and Snowmass’ sprawling 3,332 acres more often. But Aspen Mountain’s so alluring it brings him back five or six days each week. His great-aunt, Julia Stapleton, was an avid skier before Aspen Mountain had chairlifts. She took advantage of the boat tow.

“She made sure I skied,” Vagneur said. As a kid growing up on a Woody Creek ranch, he remembers his mom bringing him to town for the 1950 FIS World Championships. He skied the lower slopes while she watched the world’s best racers. In high school, Vagneur would ski both days of weekends as well as Wednesday afternoons, when students could pick between skiing, skating or study hall. After college, he returned to the Roaring Fork Valley and joined the Aspen Mountain Ski Patrol in 1970, learning every nook and cranny on the slopes out of necessity. The official count says Aspen Mountain has 76 trails. The patrol has names for glades, cutoffs, subsections of trails and the like, so by their count, there’s a lot more named trails than that. Plus, there are endless opportunities for combining routes. That’s the reason Aspen Mountain skis so big, Vagneur said. He and other Ajax loyalists invariably ask one another, “What did you ski?”

“It drives me crazy when people say, ‘That’s such a small mountain.'” Tony Vagneur, longtime local

Though Ajax affords steep and sweeping views of the town below, there are still some moderate groomers for early-morning cruising. PHOTOS BY JEREMY SWANSON/ASPEN SKIING CO.

The glades on Ajax offer excellent powder stashes, even after the rest of the mountain appears skied off. PHOTOS BY JEREMY SWANSON/ASPEN SKIING CO.

“A lot of people, they ski something and they end up in Spar or Copper (then ski to the base). You have to connect things.”

-Erik Peltonen, first skied Aspen in 1969

One of his favorite answers is “Face to Face to Face” — as in taking a run down Face of Bell until the intersection with Spar, then cutting back onto the Face for additional vertical, then cutting back in a last time after reaching Spar a second time. Erik Peltonen first skied Aspen Mountain in 1969 and was immediately hooked. “I moved here not knowing anything about Aspen except there was skiing,” he said. “That winter, a guy I met in Switzerland was head of the (trail) packing crew. I asked him for a job. He said, ‘We’ll see.’” Peltonen answered the call when volunteers were needed to ski pack trails at the start of the 1969-70 winter. The volunteers would use their skis to compact the snow because snowcats of that era didn’t have near the capability for packing and grooming trails that they do now. In addition to volunteers, the Ski Corp., as it was then known, hired a season-long crew of packers. Peltonen was asked to join. It was hard work in the morning but then provided the opportunity to ski the rest of the day. “I thought it was the best,” he said of that first winter. The next season he was offered a job on the illustrious Aspen Mountain Ski Patrol when s omeone was injured. “It was a tough decision because packing was the best,” Peltonen said. “It came down to money. I was making $2.25 an hour (packing) and patrolling I’d get $2.35 per hour.” He learned so much more about Aspen Mountain’s slopes as a patroller because they performed avalanche control in off-limits areas. “A lot of places that are open now were completely offlimits — all of the Dumps, Traynor, Bingo.” Like Vagneur, Peltonen said Aspen Mountain only seems small to skiers and riders who don’t take advantage of trail connections and linking the runs.

“A lot of people, they ski something and they end up in Spar or Copper (then ski to the base),” Peltonen said. “You have to connect things.” For example, after a frequent start down Walsh’s on the east side, he will continue to Jackpot, then cut way west to connect to the Norway trail down to the base. “That’s a hell of a run,” he said. After skiing the Back of Bell or the Face of Bell, he always cuts back to catch lower Ridge of Bell or the Shoulder. It’s all about taking advantage of the terrain available on your descent. For some skiers, the groomed slopes at the mountaintop served by the Ajax Express chairlift form their opinion of Aspen Mountain. For Vagenur, Peltonen and a legion of other Aspen Mountain loyalists, the groomed terrain is merely used as a way access the terrain they really want to ski. “I ski the top to go somewhere,” Peltonen said. Vagneur was willing to share that the expert run Summit, off the Buckhorn Cutoff, is his favorite. You can ski it once and be proud of your performance, he said, then go up and do it later in the day and get humbled. “It’s just a tough son-of-abitch,” he said with a chuckle.

Ajax

Green

s p a L h c Lun

Looking to cruise on your lunch break? Take 1 & 2 Leaf to Copper Bowl and around Kleenex Corner to Little Nell. Another option (with a different end point): Silver Bell to Chair 6 and then down Ruthie’s to Strawpile and Lift 1A.

Blue

Want a little more action? We like Dipsy Doodle to Pumphouse and then down Spar to Little Nell. Add a few more bumps by passing Little Nell for a quick trip down FIS Slalom Hill.

Black

OK to sweat a little before heading back to work? Hit the Back of Bell #1 to the Glades (#1, #2 or #3) and then down to Niagra or over to FIS Slalom Hill. The long Face of Bell, Shoulder of Bell or Ridge of Bell will also get your heart pumping.

Double Black

Two excellent options here. Hit the Walsh’s side and connect into Jackpot or Bingo Glades and then across to Franklin Dumps on the east side of the mountain. Or, on the other side, take Blondie’s to Chair 6 and into the Dumps.

Want it all?

A fave for mixing it up: Buckhorn to Midnight to Chair 6, and then down Ruthie’s to Aztec to Corkscrew.

Aspen local and Olympian Chris Klug snowboards down fresh corduroy on a steep groomer. PHOTOS BY SCOTT MARKEWITZ

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calendar

FIREWORKS OVER SNOWMASS PHOTO BY JEREMY SWANSON/ASPEN SKIING CO.

DECEMBER 15-17 || 50th Anniversary Weekend, Snowmass 16 || Starlit Trek & Dinner, Snowmass 16 || St. Regis Annual Tree Lighting Ritual, Aspen 16 || Aspen Choral Society’s Handel’s ‘Messiah,’ Wheeler Opera House, Aspen 16-17 || World Snow Polo Championships, Rio Grande Park, Aspen 17 || Aspen Laff Festival presents Heather McDonald, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen

19 || Anderson Ranch Arts Center Holiday Open House, Snowmass 19-30 || Aspen Film’s Academy Screenings, Aspen 19 || Gary Numan, Bell Up Aspen 20-31 || 12 Days of Aspen, holiday events around town 20 || LeAnn Rimes: Today is Christmas Tour, Belly Up Aspen 21-22 || JAS Café: Niki Harris & James Horowitz Trio, JAS Café Downstairs @ The Cooking School of Aspen 21 || Old-Fashioned Cookie Exchange & Caroling with Aspen Historical Society, Wheeler/Stallard Museum, Aspen

21 || Teddy Bear Story Hour with Aspen Historical Society, Wheeler/Stallard Museum, Aspen 21–24 || Santa’s Village & Carolers, Snowmass 22 || Build a Holiday Gingerbread House, Snowmass 22 || Teddy Bear Story Hour with Aspen Historical Society, Wheeler/Stallard Museum, Aspen 23 || A Charlie Brown Christmas Live on Stage, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen 25 || Neil Berg’s Broadway Holiday, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen

26 || ACES Apres: Holiday Open House

30 || Moonlit Trek & Dinner, Snowmass

24 || Christmas Eve Services at Snowmass Chapel

30 || Audi Ajax Cup, Aspen Mountain

27 || Audi Ajax Cup, Aspen Mountain

30 || Jason Latimer: Curator of Impossible Science, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen

28 || Starship featuring Mickey Thomas, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen

31 || Snowmass New Year’s Eve Fireworks, Snowmass

28 || Astronomy Nights with ACES

31 || Infamous Stringdusters, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen

28 || Elk Mountain Rescue Dogs & Mountain Rescue Aspen volunteers showcase, St. Regis Aspen Resort

January

29-30 || JAS Café: Dee Dee Bridgewater “Memphis,” JAS Café Downstairs @ The Cooking School of Aspen

5 || Nick Swardson at Belly Up Aspen 6 || Warren Miller’s “Line of Descent,” Wheeler Opera House, Aspen

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FAMILY FUN

FMAILY FUN Snowmass Village is ground zero for family fun. Here are a few ongoing offerings worth checking out: Clowning Around — From 3:30 to 3:30 p.m. each Thursday from Dec. 21 through April 12, a fun children's entertainer will perform at the Treehouse Kids' Adventure Center. Offerings will include a comedy magic show, balloon animals, face-painting, glitter, flash and henna tattoos, interactive storytelling and other adventures. Family Day at the Rec Center — From 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. each Thursday from Dec. 21 through April 12, the Snowmass Village Recreation Center will play host to discounted fun including outdoor swimming and skating, indoor climbing, basketball, fitness and more. An adult must accompany children. Cost is $40 for a family of four; $10 per additional child. Family Fun at Apres on the Bricks — From 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. each Saturday from Dec. 16 through April 14, Base Village will come alive with free activities including facepainters, balloon artists, a DJ, dancers, apres specials and more. Snowy the Mammoth, the town's Ice Age mascot, also makes appearances from 2:30 to 3:30 p.m. for photo ops. Children must be accompanied by an adult. Snowmass Heroes — This educational VIK program gives children and their parents a behind-the-scenes look at life in a mountain town, featuring patrol dogs, snowmaking and more. Held at the Treehouse Kids' Adventure Center, the program will be offered from 3:30 to 3:30 p.m. Tuesdays from Dec. 19 through April 10.

Ullr Nights — From 5:30 to 9 on Friday nights starting Dec. 22 — along with Tuesdays on Dec. 26, Feb. 13 and March 20 — Elk Camp will be the scene for a winter wonderland. On tap will be a plethora of classic winter activities such as sledding, guided snowshoe tours, snowbiking and snowtubing. New this year is the Breathtaker Alpine Coaster. Also on hand will be an a la carte culinary celebration with live music and s'mores and hot chocolate by the campfire. Advance registration is required at aspensnowmass.com.

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

Wildside with ACES — A naturalist from the Aspen Center for Environmental Studies will offer a fun presentation with live animals from 4 to 5 p.m. on Mondays beginning Dec. 18 at the Treehouse Kids' Adventure Center.

PHOTO BY HAL WILLIAMS/ASPEN SKIING CO.

Snowmass S'mores — New to Snowmass this winter, this apres activity happens everyday in Base Village and the Snowmass Mall. Look for s'mores carts by the fire pits and whip up the perfect wintertime treat.

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MOONLIGHT TREK 9 || Winter Words: Alice McDermott, Paepcke Auditorium, Aspen Institute campus 10-14 || Toyota U.S. Grand Prix, Snowmass 11–14 || Wintersköl™ Celebratio, all mountains 11 || Aspen U Speaker Series, Limelight Hotel, Aspen 12-13 || JAS Café: Tatiana Eva-Marie & The Avalon Jazz Band, JAS Café Downstairs @ The Cooking School of Aspen

PHOTO BY HAL WILLIAMS/ASPEN SKIING CO.

12 || Retro Film Series: Decades of Skiing Aspen/Snowmass, Limelight Hotel, Aspen 12 || Bud Light Hi-Fi Concert Series, Snowmass 13 || Starlit Trek & Dinner, Snowmass 14-21 || Aspen Gay Ski Week 18 || The Met Live in HD: Bellini’s Norma, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen

18 || Red Brick 24th anniversary Art Auction 19 ||The Floozies: Powder Rangers 2 at Belly Up Aspen

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20 || Aspen Santa Fe Ballet, Aspen District Theatre 22 || Astronomy Nights with ACES 23 || Winter Words: Tracy K. Smith, Paepcke Auditorium, Aspen Institute campus 25 || Gallery at the Red Brick Opening: Leaning into the Light 25-28 || Winter X Games Aspen, Buttermilk

february

1 || The Met Live in HD: Mozart’s “The Magic Flute,” Wheeler Opera House, Aspen 2 || Aspen Youth Center presents Family Feud Aspen, Hotel Jerome, Aspen 2-3 || JAS Café: Katie Thiroux, JAS Café Downstairs @ The Cooking School of Aspen

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3 || Moonlit Trek & Dinner, Snowmass 6 || Aspen Historical Society: Time Travel Tuesdays, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen 8 || Big Wild at Belly Up Aspen 9 || Retro Film Series: Decades of Skiing Aspen/ Snowmass, Limelight Hotel 9-10 || JAS Café: John Jorgenseon Quintent, JAS Café Downstairs @ The Cooking School of Aspen 10 || Bud Light Street Rail Saturdays, Snowmass 11 || Owl Creek Chase 13 || Mardi Gras Celebration & Fireworks, Snowmass

20 || Winter Words: Christina Baker Kine, Paepcke Auditorium, Aspen Institute campus

23-24 || JAS Café: Pedrito Martinez Group

17 || Bud Light Street Rail Saturdays, Snowmass

21 || Aspen Laugh Festival:The Second City, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen

24 || Aspen Laugh Festival: Mike Birbiglia, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen

17 ||Bruce Cockburn, Wheeler Opera House

21 || Aspen U Speaker Series, Limelight Hotel, Aspen

17 ||Starlit Trek & Dinner, Snowmass

22 || Aspen Laugh Festival: Paula Poundstone, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen

24 || Aspen Laugh Festival: Tiffany Haddish, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen

13 || Aspen Historical Society: Time Travel Tuesdays, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen 16 || Ailey II, Aspen District Theatre

20 || Colorado Comedy Night, Limelight Hotel, Aspen 20-24 || Aspen Laugh Festival, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen 20 || Aspen Historical Society: Time Travel Tuesdays, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

22-24 || Aspen Snowmass Freeskiing Open 23 || Aspen Laugh Festival: Colin Jost, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen 23 || Aspen Laugh Festival: Jeff Ross, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen

24 || Bud Light Street Rail Saturdays, Snowmass

26 || Astronomy Nights with ACES 27 || Aspen Historical Society: Time Travel Tuesdays, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen 28 || Winter Music Recital Series Inon Barnatan, piano, Harris Concert Hall

March 2 || Bud Light Street Rail Fridays, Snowmass 2 || AS Café: Teka & The Roger Kellaway Trio 3 || Audi Power of Four Ski Mountaineering Race 3 || Moonlit Trek & Dinner, Snowmass 3 || Audi Power of Four Ski Mountaineering Race, all mountains 3-10 || North American Police Ski & Snowboard Championships, Snowmass 6 || Aspen Historical Society: Time Travel Tuesdays, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen

Incredible Properties

Diamond J Ranch 32 private acres with 3 ponds, 1,900

feet of Frying Pan River frontage, 15 cabins, a main lodge with 8 guest rooms, 7.5 baths, a commercial kitchen and dining room. 5 minutes to Ruedi Reservoir.Very popular for wedding, family reunions, corporate retreats, etc. $3,150,000

COLIN JOST 8 || The Met Live in HD: Puccini’s “Tosca,” Wheeler Opera House, Aspen 8-11 || Apres Ski Cocktail Classic

17 || Starlit Trek & Dinner, Snowmass

20 || Winter Words: William Finnegan, Paepcke Auditorium, Aspen Institute campus

9 || Retro Film Series: Decades of Skiing Aspen/Snowmass

21 || Aspen U Speaker Series, Limelight Hotel, Aspen

10 || Winter Music Recital Series: William Hagen, violin, Harris Concert Hall

22 || The Met Live in HD: Rossini’s “Semiramide”

15 || Gallery at the Red Brick Opening: Color of Emotion 16 || Bud Light Street Rail Fridays, Snowmass 16-17 || JAS Café: Jose James “Bill Withers 80th” 17 || St. Patrick’s Day Celebration, Snowmass

overlooks the pool and courtyard with easy access. Premier complex with pool, hot tub and front desk. Perfect for short term rental. Mitsubishi air conditioning unit in both bedrooms and living room. $1,450,000 Furnished

19 || Astronomy night with ACES

9 || Bud Light Street Rail Fridays, Snowmass

15 || Winter Music Recital Series: Pacifica Quartet, Harris Concert Hall

COURTESY PHOTO

Beautifully Remodeled Fasching Haus Corner unit

23 || Bud Light Street Rail Fridays, Snowmass 23-24 || Grand Traverse 23-April 1 || Bud Light Spring Jam, Aspen/Snowmass 24 || Bud Light Hi-Fi Concert Series, Snowmass 24 || Terrain Park Boot Camp, Snowmass 24 || Aspen Santa Fe Ballet: An Evening with Pianist Joynce Yang, Aspen District Theatre

Spacious Missouri Heights Home Enjoy expansive views from this 4 bedroom 4 bath home on 1.5+ acres. Five minutes from Willits. Pool, hot tub, tennis, basketball. Perfect family home! $830,000

Call me for more information or for a private showing.

Charley Podolak 970.948.0100 Charley.Podolak @ sir.com A PUBLICATION OF THE ASPEN TIMES

CALENDAR

BLUEBIRD DAYS

SPRING FLING Spring skiing in Aspen-Snowmass is spectacular. But springtime also brings on the party, including the always popular Bud Light Spring Jam and Hi-Fi CORE Party. Here’s the lowdown Antibalas March 31, Downtown Aspen New this year, the CORE party, will span two days, Friday, March 30 and Saturday, March 31, with musical performances in the heart of downtown Aspen, at the corner of Cooper and Galena. The final Hi-Fi Concert of the season, Saturday, Mar. 31, will feature Antibalas who will perform at 8 p.m. The Hi-Fi Concert for Friday, March 30 was still to be announced in early December. The Core Party will feature a beer garden with proceeds benefitting the Aspen Environment Foundation and event sponsor prize giveaways prior to the show. Also on tap this winter for the free Bud Light Hi-Fi Concert Series : DJ Z-Trip Jan. 12, Snowmass

Rebirth Brass Band March 24, Snowmass

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

COURTESY PHOTO

Cold War Kids Feb. 17, Gondola Plaza, Aspen Mountain adoration from

PHOTO BY JEREMY SWANSON/ASPEN SKIING CO.

MARDI GRAS

Tim Cottrell With 20 years of serving Buyers and Sellers, let me help you make your dreams come true.

Community Connected. Global Reach.

“Real Estate is Serious Business, so let’s have some fun with it!”

Tim Cottrell 970.379.0999

Tim.Cottrell@sir.com

A PUBLICATION OF THE ASPEN TIMES

CALENDAR

25 || Banked Slalom, Snowmass

join us at the limelight lounge

happy hour daily great beer dinners (ask for our schedule!)

crave-able menu 355 south monarch | aspen limelighthotels.com @limelighthotels facebook.com/thelimelighthotels

30 || Bud Light Street Rail Fridays, Snowmass

8 || Bacon Appreciation Day, Buttermilk

31 || Moonlit Trek & Dinner, Snowmass

8 || Schneetag, Snowmass

April 1 || Easter Service at Snowmass Chapel 1-6 || National Disabled Veterans Winter Sports Clinic, Snowmass

10 || Anderson Ranch Arts Center Spring Open House 13 || Retro Film Series: Decadesof Skiing Aspen/ Snowmass April 14 13 || Starlit Trek & Dinner, Snowmass

3-8 || Aspen Film’s Shortsfest

15 || Aspen Mountain Closing Day

3 || Winter Words: Luis Alberto Urrea, Paepcke Auditorium, Aspen Institute campus

15 || Snowmass Mountain Closing Day

ASPEN HIGHLANDS CLOSING DAY

APRES YOUR FEET WITH OUR SHOES AND BOOTS. Aquatalia, Pedro Garcia, Pajar, and more | www.tlinsaspen.com 405 Hunter St Aspen, CO | 970.429.4756 PHOTO COURTESY ASPEN SKIING CO.

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

8 || Buttermilk Closing Day

30-31 || JAS Café: Matthew Whitaker

Feet feeling cramped in ski boots?

8 || Aspen Highlands Closing Day

NEED TO KNOW The downtown pedestrian malls are home to many of Aspen’s restaurants, bars, shopping and more.

the

mountains ASPEN aka: “Ajax” Season dates: Nov. 23, 2017 to April 15, 2018 The details: 675 acres; 3,267 vertical rise; 64 miles of trails (no easy trails; 48 percent more difficult; 26 percent most difficult; 26 percent expert) Uphill rules: Uphillers must be at the summit of Aspen Mountain by 9 a.m. and follow designated routes; no dogs

SNOWMASS

INSIDER INFO

What you need to know about visiting Aspen/Snowmass

by jeanne mcgovern

THE ‘TOWNS’

PHOTO COURTESY ASPEN SKIING CO.

ASPEN: The anchor of Aspen/

Snowmass, this former mining town was transformed into a world-class ski destination decades ago. Now, the hub of activity — from food and drink to shopping and lodging — can be found in the downtown core, right at the base of Aspen Mountain.

SNOWMASS VILLAGE:

Developed 50 years ago, Snowmass Village actually comprises three hubs — the Mall, Base Village and the Snowmass Center. The Mall

and Base Village are located slopeside, and are connected by the “Skittles” passenger gondola; both areas are home to restaurants, bars, shopping, special events and more. The Snowmass Center is more local-centric, offering such things as a grocery store, post office, town government, etc. ASPEN HIGHLANDS: While there is no “town” of Aspen Highlands per se, there is a small village at the ski mountain’s base. In winter, the area comes to life with a handful of restaurants/bars, ski shop and other services. The expansive

decks make for great après-ski afternoons, especially in spring. BUTTERMILK: Like

Highlands, there is no town of Buttermilk. Nor is there really a village of any type at its base. But don’t overlook it; the slopeside Bumps and Home Team BBQ at the Inn at Aspen are well worth a visit (see story, page 56).

DOWNVALLEY: Going farther afield are the towns of Woody Creek (famous for the Woody Creek Tavern), Basalt (gold medal fly-fishing awaits) Willits (an up-and-coming destination for foodies and shoppers alike), Carbondale (where funky mountain town meets modern resort amenities) and Glenwood Springs (home to two natural hot springs, the Glenwood Caverns Amusement Park, and much more.) See special advertising section, pages 46-51.

aka: “The Mass” Season dates: Nov. 23, 2017 to April 15, 2018 The details: 3,332 acres; 4,406 vertical rise; 150 miles of trails (5 percent easiest; 48 percent more difficult; 17 percent most difficult; 30 percent expert) Uphill rules: Allowed during operating hours; no dogs

ASPEN HIGHLANDS aka: “Highlands” Season dates: Dec. 9, 2017 to April 8, 2018 The details: 1,040 acres; 3,365 vertical rise; 84 miles of trails (no easy trails; 23 percent more difficult; 12 percent most difficult; 65 percent expert) Uphill rules: Allowed during operating hours; no dogs

BUTTERMILK aka: “The Milk” Season dates: Dec. 9, 2017 to April 8, 2018 The details: 470 acres; 2,030 vertical rise; 21 miles of trails (35 percent easiest; 39 percent more difficult; 21 percent most difficult; 50 percent expert) Uphill rules: Allowed during operating hours on designated routes; no dogs

A PUBLICATION OF THE ASPEN TIMES

A P L AC E F O R A RT I S T I C D I S C OV E RY, C O M M U N I T Y A N D D I A L O G U E

GETTING HERE AND THERE

S U M M E R WO R K S H O P S | A RT I ST L EC T U R E S LU N C H T I M E AU C T I O N E T T E S | E X H I B I T I O N S S U M M E R S E R I E S : F E AT U R E D A RT I ST S & C O N V E R S AT I O N S C R I T I C A L D I A LO G U E | A RT I ST S - I N - R E S I D E N C E P R O G RA M S J A N UA RY ST U D I O C O N C E N T RAT I O N S | A RT WO R K S STO R E

ANDERSONRANCH.ORG | 5263 OWL CREEK RD. SNOWMASS VILLAGE, CO 81615

JUST 15 MINUTES FROM ASPEN | 970-923-3181 | 9 AM â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 5 PM WEEKDAYS

The Roaring Fork Transportation Authority (RFTA) provides free bus services to locations around Aspen, as well as fare buses to locations downvalley. RFTA also operates free skiers shuttles to and from all four area ski mountains. In Snowmass, the town offers free shuttles to locations within the Village. Aside from regular bus service, the city of Aspen operates the Downtowner, an on-demand, appbased service around the downtown core, while High Mountain Taxi provides service in town and across the valley. Parking in both Aspen

and Snowmass is a paid proposition. In Aspen, parking is metered in the downtown core, with free two-hour parking available on the surrounding blocks. The Rio Grande Parking Garage is your best bet for long-term savings on parking, as is the Base Village Parking Garage in Snowmass. Most other lots in Snowmass are by permit only, with paid skier parking offered at Two Creeks (paid skier parking also is in effect at Aspen Highlands).

www.rfta.com www.ridedowntowner.com www.hmtaxi.com www.aspenpitkin.com/ Departments/Transportation www.snowmasstransit.com

FREE RIDES, ANYWHERE IN DOWNTOWN ASPEN

SKI + BOARD RACKS

GET THE APP TO RIDE Rides provided by The City of Aspen. 100% free to the user. 86

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

ASPEN TIMES FILE PHOTO

To: You From: The City of Aspen

NEED TO KNOW

MORE INFO Learn more about Aspen/Snowmass, including up-to-date events and happenings by visiting any of these websites (or ask any local!): The Aspen Times, www.aspentimes.com Aspen Skiing Co., www.aspensnowmass.com Aspen Chamber Resort Association, www.aspenchamber.org Snowmass Tourism, www.gosnowmass.com

Strong MEDICAL TEAM

Mark Purnell, MD

Thea Wojtkowski, MD

Tomas Pevny, MD

Eleanor von Stade, MD

Stanley Gertzbein, MD

Namdar Kazemi, MD

Waqqar Khan-Farooqi, MD

MAKING YOU STRONGER

OrthoAspenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s team of experts is dedicated to improving

GETTY IMAGE

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Visit two convenient locations: ASPEN 0401 Castle Creek Road | BASALT 1450 East Valley Road 970.544.1431 | ORTHOASPEN.ORG

11/21/17 AM A PUBLICATION OF THE ASPEN7:16 TIMES

linda israel

Limited Edition “G a Bear” Giclee, 30” x 30.” Original artwork by Linda Israel.

IN THE SPIRIT OF OUR BELOVED LATE PUBLISHER

Gunilla Asher The Aspen Times established the Gunilla Israel Asher Scholarship to provide college scholarships to Aspen High School students. The scholarship will be funded, in part, by the sale of 100 giclees of an original painting by Gunilla’s sister, renowned artist Linda Israel. “G a Bear” embodies all that was Gunilla: beauty, tenacity, strength, power and mystery. To purchase your limited edition giclees of “G a Bear,” for $1,000, contact Samantha Johnston at The Aspen Times, 970-925-3414 or by email at sjohnston@aspentimes.com.

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

Indulgent Innovation personalized mala creation & qigong meditation customized CBD oil-infused massage scientific organics kombucha facial oxygen lounge confluence waterfall

RemĂ¨de Spa, The St. Regis Aspen Resort 315 East Dean Street Aspen, Colorado t. +1 970 429 9650 stregisaspen.com @stregisaspen Photo: Josh Bishop ÂŠ2016 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.

menu guide

COURTESY PHOTO

Dining options in Aspen-Snowmass — for breakfast, lunch, dinner and everything in-between — are always fresh and flavorful.

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

Cross Country Skiing

SKI ASHCROF T ,

Snowshoes Sleigh Rides with GIANT horses Historic Ghost Town of Ashcroft Ski to Dinner with a miners light... an Aspen tradition Aspen Center for Environmental Studies-ACES naturalist snowshoe tour

PINE CREEK COOKHOUSE , Majestic Mountain Dining

Serving Lunch and Dinner at the base of spectacular mountains Rentals Lessons Tours Luxury Cabin Rental 700 acres of outdoor fun... under permit from the USFS Reservations and Information (970) 925-1044 www.pinecreekcookhouse.com Located in the Ashcroft Valley, 12 miles from the roundabout up Castle Creek Road

BAMBOO BEAR

WHERE EVERYONE CAN EAT FRESH, HEALTHY ASIAN CUISINE

GLUTEN FREE AND VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY • DAILY LUNCH AND DINNER SPECIALS

BAMBOO BEAR IS ASPEN’S LOCAL GO TO ASIAN RESTAURANT THAT STARTED OUT AS A POP UP OVER A YEAR AGO AND WITH GREAT SUPPORT WE ARE HERE AGAIN FOR WINTER. SERVING ASIAN INSPIRED FOOD WITH A CORE VIETNAMESE MENU. ALL SOUPS ARE MADE WITH BONES AND FROM SCRATCH. COME ON BY AND GIVE US A TRY!

OPEN 11:30AM 9:30PM OR TILL FOOD RUNS OUT

LOCAL FAVORITES! BE A PART OF THE IN-CROWD WHEN YOU TRY ONE OF OUR MOST POPULAR FOOD DISHES. THE CROWD HAS SPOKEN, AND OUR FAN FAVORITES INCLUDE:

• COM TAM • SUMMER SALAD ROLL • PHO • BANH MI • FRESH RICE NOODLE • SALAD • SPRING ROLLS • HOUSE SPECIALTIES • CRISPY CHICKEN • GRILLED PORK • BANH MI SANDWICH

3 VARIETIES OF STEAM BUNS • BBQ PORK • VEGETARIAN • SEASONED GROUND PORK N EGG

HOMEMADE, FRESH, APPROACHABLE AND PRICED FOR THE WORKING LOCAL. 730 E COOPER AVE. TWO BLOCKS FROM THE GONDOLA NEXT TO CITY MARKET

CALL FOR TAKE OUT 970.710.2094 OR DINE IN BAMBOOBEARRESTAURANT.COM

MENU HIGHLIGHTs -

seven onion soup jimmyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famous crab cake american style kobe: 6oz. Rib Eye Cap 8oz. top sirloin 10oz. New york strip 30oz. tomahawk

slow roasted pork chop pan seared organic salmon maine lobster tail & petite filet

Bodega

MENU HIGHLIGHTs -

raw bar

Aspen

TartarE duo CLAM chowder Ceviche de pescado wild cape cod mussels whole orata lobster tail 14oz.

New York strip

RED bird roasted chicken

VISIT US THIS WINTER DOGSLEDDING • SPECIALTY GIFT SHOP • DINING PRIVATE DINING ROOM AVAILABLE

Owners, Gina & Danny Phillips

970.923.1951

Snowmass Village, Colorado www.krabloonik.com

OPEN DAILY AT 5PM • 970.429.8640 • 320 SOUTH MILL STREET WWW.MARUASPEN.COM • INFO@MARUASPEN.COM

parting shot

PEAK SEASON The prayer flags atop Highland Bowl welcome skiers and snowboarders for another epic season of turns on the mountains of Aspen/Snowmass. PHOTO BY ANNA STONEHOUSE

WINTER IN ASPEN // 2018

LOCAL

PRINCIPALS. Alain Azizi

Kelli Marshall

Krista Klees

Newton Bartley

Corey Crocker

These five local owners, along with the rest of the Palladium team, provide decades of expertise with constant integrity and an unwavering commitment to service. Whatever your vision, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find the view.

ASPEN BASALT GLENWOOD SPRINGS

970.925.8088

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