¹ 2’2018
¹2’2018 Founder INTERNATIONAL TEA HOUSE
Publisher INTERNATIONAL TEA HOUSE
Advertising Director JULIA CHANTURIYA
Editor-in-Chief RAMAZ CHANTURIYA
Advertising Manager DARIA ARAKELOVA
Deputy Editor-in-Chief SVETLANA BELIKOVA
Promotion Manager ALEXANDRA ZAKHAROVA
Computer-Aided Design NATALIA KOROSHCHENKO
Subscribe Manager OLGA BABAEVA
20
THE EDITORIAL BOARD Chairman of the Editorial Board R.O. CHANTURIYA, General Director, Rusteacoffee Association
The effect of bean origin and temperature on grinding roasted coffee
26 Tea Masters Cup national competitions 2017/2018: Russia, Belarus, Italy
Members of the Editorial Board S.G. BELIKOVA, Ph.D. Deputy Editor-in-Chief, Coffee&Tea in Russia Editorial Board Secretary S.V. DIKHTIAR, Director, Institute of Hospitality and Tourism, RUDN University A.V. ELSON, General Director, KLD Coffee Importers
31
S.V. KASIANENKO, Chairman, Board of Directors, Orimi Trade Group of Companies A. MALCHIC, Chief Executive Officer, Montana Ñoffee
Uganda coffee is looking for new markets
38 Tea and food pairing
M. PEIRIS, International Tea Committee D. SHUMAKOV, Member of the Tea Masters Cup Organizing Committee I.A. SOKOLOV, Ph.D. in History V.A. TUTELIAN, Director, Institute of Nutrition of the Russian Academy of Medical Sciences, Member, Russian Academy of Medical Sciences A.K.WAGNER Founder and Leader of the Project Chaism.pro
NEWS 2 3 8
Editorial Address: Russia, 123060, Moscow, Berzarina str., 36, building 2, of. 415 tel./fax: +7 495 935-87-07 Email: magazine@coffeetea.ru, www.coffeetea.ru
14
Printed: OOO IPO Izumrudny Gorod Distribution: coffeetea.store
14
Cover photo: KATARYNA VYMAZALOVA (Chech Republic) – Tea Masters Cup International 2017 Champion in Tea Mixology. Enshi (China, Hubei province).
14
This photo is the copyrighted property of Tea Masters Cup International and International Tea Forum.
Distributed worldwide among coffee and tea producers, wholesale companies, shops and restaurants. Printed in Russia. According to the registration certificate of mass media ÏÈ ¹777213 from 30th January, 2001. Reprinting of materials is allowed only by permission of the magazine. The reference to the magazine ”Coffee and Tea International” is obligatory. The editors don't bear any responsibility for reliability of data placed in advertising blocks or announcements. The editor's point of view may not coincide with the author's point of view. All provided materials will not be returned or reviewed. ”Coffee & Tea International magazine” has been included in the VINITI (All Russian Institute of Scientific and Technical Information of the Academy of Sciences Vserossiisky Institut Nauchnoi i Tekhnicheskoi Informatsii (VINITI)) list of synopsis journals and the institute data base. Information about the magazine will be annually published in the “Ulrich's Periodicals Directory”, international handbook of periodic magazines and ongoing publications. ”Coffee & Tea International“ is an appendix of the ”Coffee & Tea in Russia magazine”.
– advertising materials
15 15
Calendar of events The 5th Coffee & Tea Russian Expo Russian Barista Days: new champions The United States announces the withdraw from the International Coffee Agreement Former SCAE executive director David Veal to leave SCA ICO launches annual award competition for excellence in coffee-related research Capsules for SPIEF Russia increases tea exports to Azerbaijan
HORECA NEWS
24 26 27
28
INTERVIEW
30 31
REVIEW & STATISTICS 16
Hot drinks trends in Europe in 2017
SCIENCE NEWS 20
The effect of bean origin and temperature on grinding roasted coffee
Agnieszka Rojewska wins the 2018 World Barista Championship The best Russian tea masters appeared as true tea wizards How to brew Tea festival from Tea Masters Cup? Experience of TMC Belarus 2018 Luca Roatta is the winner of the Tea Masters Cup Italy 2018 Sharyn Johnston – new TMCI Head Judge. From head to toes in love with tea! Uganda ñoffee is looking for new markets MONITOR
32 34 38
Teavana, a distant analysis The Korean tea phenomenon Tea and food pairing
40
ADVERTISER INDEX
CALENDAR OF EVENTS August 2018 — December 2018
16-18 August
18-22 October
Country: China. City: Hong Kong Company page: m.hktdc.com/fair/hkteafair-en/ Hong-Kong-International-Tea-Fair.html
Country: China. City: Xiamen Company page: teafair.com.cn
3-5 September
25-27 October
Hong Kong Int’l Tea Fair
Xiamen International Tea Fair
Tea & Coffee World Cup
Triestespresso
Country: United Kingdom. City: Birmingham Company page: tcworldcup.com
Country: Italy. City: Trieste Company page: triestespresso.it
15-17 September
30 October - 1 November
China International Cafe Show
Gulfhost
Country: China. City: Beijing Company page: cafeshow.cn/huagang/hgcoffceen/index.htm#
Country: UAE. City: Dubai Company page: gulfhost.ae
17-20 September
1-3 November
WorldFood Moscow
Coffee Expo Vietnam
Country: Russia. City: Moscow Company page: world-food.ru/ru-RU/
Country: Vietnam. City: Ho Chi Minh City Company page: vietcoffeefair.com
20-23 September
7-9 November
İstanbul Coffee Festival 2018
International Coffee Week
Country: Turkey. City: Istanbul Company page: istanbulcoffeefestival.com
Country: Brazilia. City: Belo Horizonte Company page: semanainternacionaldocafe.com.br/en/
10-12 October
8-11
CoTeCa
Café Show Seoul
Country: Germany. City: Hamburg Company page: coteca-hamburg.com
Country: Korea. City: Seoul Company page: cafeshow.com
16-17 October
5-7 December
Caffe Culture
Country: United Kingdom. City: London Company page: caffecultureshow.com
November
Dubai IC & T Festival Country: UAE. City: Dubai Company page: coffeeteafest.com
EVENTS OF THE MAGAZINE СOFFEE & TEA IN RUSSIA August 2018 — March 2019
25-26 August
13-15 March 2019
13-15 March 2019
Coffee&Tea Festival
Coffee&Tea Russian Expo
Tea Masters Cup Russia
Country: Russia. City: Moscow Company page: coffeeteafest.ru
Country: Russia. City: Moscow Company page: coffeetearusexpo.ru
Country: Russia. City: Moscow Company page: teamasterscup.ru
17-20 September
13-15 March 2019
Tea Masters Cup Russia Russian Barista Days
Moscow region
Country: Russia. City: Moscow Company page: teamasterscup.ru
Country: Russia. City: Moscow Company page: baristabattle.ru
A
ll records of visiting were broken this year. Over 5000 concerned visitors came to the exhibition for 3 days, over 100 exhibitors, sponsors and partners presented their services products and knowhows, more than 140 different events were conducted by 110 speakers in 10 interactive areas; 100 volunteers, 80 judges were involved in 7 coffee and 4 tea competitions.
PR-NEWS
The Russian Barista Days passed at highest level. 7 championships for coffee professionals included Russian Barista Championship, Moscow qualifying round of Brewers Cup Championship, Moscow qualifying round of Latte Art Championship, Russian Cup Tasters Championship, Russian Coffee Aroma Championship, National Award Barista of the year 2018 and National Award Roaster of the year 2018. In the frame of the exhibition besides the championships there were conducted 2 annual awards.
As a result of the judges voting there were named winners of The Coffee & Tea Packaging Award 2018. Best Tea Packaging 2018 – Departament Kofe (brand BRUMAS). Best Coffee Package 2018 – Sense Asia Co. (brand Mr. Viet). According the Coffee and Tea in Russia Magazine there were named and awarded persons of a Year 2017 in coffee and tea industries. Person of a Year in tea 2017 – Olga-Alissia Daineko, tea master, she was rewarded for winning in Tea Masters Cup Russia 2017 and her prize place in Tea Masters Cup International 2017. Person of a Year in coffee 2017 – Marina Khyuppenen, the owner of Cezve Coffee, she was rewarded for contribution in popularity of brewing coffee in cezve, 1st place in the Russian Ibrik/Cezve championship 2017 and 2nd place in the World Ibrik/Cezve Championship 2017.
COFFEE&TEA INTERNATIONAL 2/2018
The Program of the Expo was very interesting and diverse and was spited between as already established areas as well as new fresh spaces. All the 3 days quests could try coffee and tea from the entire world in Brew Bar, Espresso Bar, and Coffee & Tea Lab. At the same time all coffee lovers could try coffee in Espresso bar from the best Russian barista performing during Barista Competition.
Coffee & Tea Practicum opened to visitors a lot of interesting facts about espresso, bean-to-bar chocolate, coffee taste wheel, capsule coffee, water taste and others.
Coffee & Tea Insight was full of interesting stories and educational seminars. With the support of MAYFoods Company, Sharyn Johnston (founder of Australian Tea Masters) could come to the expo and speak about tea blending, traditions and innovations in tea market. There were seminars about water, super automatic coffee machines, bakery and public performances as well.
Business Case was full of visitors. The area opened secrets of an ideal coffee house, its menu, incomes and costs and also PR and blogging. There were presentations about alcohol in a coffee house, teamwork and personality. For people who want to know all about Russian tea and coffee markets there were analytics presentations from analytical agencies such as Euromonitor International, Nielsen, Rusteacoffee Association and Mildberry Agency. 5
PR-NEWS
Roasting Factory surprised guests with new topics about coffee roasting. Speakers shared their knowledge and life hacks of roasting for making an excellent cup of coffee. All around topics of green coffee beans, buying and trading were covered in the Factory.
Coffee & Tea Talks was a great experiment. There have been conducted varied panel discussions and round tables. Most of the attention attracted a discussion “Tea vs Coffee” as well as “Innovations vs Tradition in Tea” where the participants could vote for the winning point of view. There were also conducted discussions around specialty coffee, roasting in Russia and coffee house assortment. Speakers talked about how to open a coffee house, about service and what’s the 4th wave means. One of the most interesting presentations was a seminar about fakes in coffee and tea markets.
COFFEE&TEA INTERNATIONAL 2/2018
Tea Journey was a new area created for tea specialist and those who want to understand more about tea. The general sponsor of the area Julius Meinl Company created a comfort and soft atmosphere of a real teahouse. In the area, there has been conducted seminars about tea qigong, herbal teas and ethno teas. Speakers talked about tea trends and pairing, highlighted Vietnam, Korean, Japanese teas, rooibos and other tea drinks. Another one interactive area Drinks Hub opened successfully its doors this year. The first day of the program was about bean-to-bar chocolate, second day was fully dedicated to work with milk and beverages based on milk. The 3d day covered mixology topics and all micro trends such as coffee and spirits and nitro coffee.
All the three days guests could enjoy invigorating coffee Jardin and flowered tea Greenfield from the General sponsor of the Expo Orimi Trade Company. In a special zone sponsored by KOF Company visitors could relax from a business and overcrowded atmosphere and treat themselves to delicious bakery from Zhuravlevs Manufacture company. All others could have a bite from Traveller’s Coffee company who became a catering partner of the Event. Another one pleasant surprise for the visitors was a water filling station and Water Bar
from BWT Company where the visitors could try water from different filter systems and get recommendation on a filter system for their businesses. The organizer of the Coffee & Tea Russian Expo 2018 is Coffee & Tea in Russia Magazine in cooperation with SCA Russia and with a support of Rusteacoffee Association. The dates of the next exhibition already became known. CTRE 2019 takes place 13—15 March 2019 in a new spacious pavilion #4, ECC Sokolniki.
THE ORGANIZERS OF THE EXHIBITION ARE THANKFUL TO THE SPONSORS AND PARTNERS
The photo report of the event is available on the official website www.coffeetearusexpo.ru 7
NEW CHAMPIONS,
Every year the number of Russian Barista Days participants grows, and level of their performances look more excellent and brilliant – that is why it becomes harder to choose the best of the best.
T
he third Russian Barista Days (RBD) took place in Sokolniki on the 15—17 of March and were the part of Coffee & Tea Russian Expo, exhibition and conference. Traditional and significant coffee competitions provided an opportunity for not only showing professional skills but also for meeting baristas from all over Russia. During three days more than 200 baristas, roasters, tasters demonstrated in different disciplines their mastery of making coffee. Coffee&Tea in Russia Magazine as an event organizer were authorized to conduct two national qualify-
COFFEE&TEA INTERNATIONAL 2/2018
ing championships before world contests (World Barista Championship, World Cup Tasters Championship), also two Moscow qualifying competitions – Latte Art and Brewers Cup (all of these championships in general take place under the auspices of World Coffee Event and support of Specialty Coffee Association Russia). Championships were managed by special world certificated judges – Lauro Fioretti (Italy) and Ania Oleksak (Poland). Main stage was a space where the most important championship in our country – Russian Barista Championship 2018 – was happening. It included
NEW CHAMPIONSHIPS
37 baristas from different corners of Russia. They were selected by the results of qualifying rounds held in season of 2017—2018. Baristas performed on a worldclass equipment. General technical sponsors were Nuova Simonelli and Delovaya Rus’ companies. They provided for competitors their brand new Victoria Arduino’s coffee machine White Eagle. Mazzer was the exclusive sponsor of coffee grinders and supplied Kony and Royal specifications for the championship. Based on representations, Lilia Gadelshina, Double B (Moscow), became the best barista of Russia. Lilia is going to represent our country on World Barista Championship 2018 in Amsterdam this June. The second place went to Konstantin Khramov, Double B (Krasnodar); the third place took Maksim Guralnik, Garden & Makers Coffee (Tyumen). Next to main stage there was an organized special zone of Espresso Bar, technically sponsored by Delovaya Rus’ Company, where any visitor could taste espresso brewed by championship participants.
Russia Cup Tasting Championship 2018 brought together the record number of baristas – more than 80 professionals! KLD Coffee Importers Company once again became a sponsor and co-organizers of one of the most spectacular championships. Also, this company was responsible for coffee choice and roast for championship (more information can be found in this issue on page 46). Organization supporter was Mikale Company. After three day of competitions the winner was declared – Ilya Khlyzov, Double B (Moscow). He will be a representor of Russia on World Championship in Dubai. Oleg Kondaurov (Coffee Owl Roasters (Moscow), was the second one; the third was Vitalyi Khrenov, Shokoladnitsa (Moscow). Moscow Qualifying Latte Art Championship was conducted under the qualifying round rules. Participants needed to prepare a latte with creative drawing,
9
COFFEE&TEA INTERNATIONAL 2/2018
two identical cappuccino and two equal signature beverages. General sponsor of coffee machines and grinders was Satori Intento Company and La Cimbali Group. The winner was Ivan Gavrilov, Coffeeshop Sguschenka (Krasnodar); the second place was taken by Nika Alekseeva, Rockets Roasters (Moscow), the third – Denis Nekhaev, Coffee Workshop (Moscow), the fourth – Nikolay Shakov, Red Mango Café (Moscow). Moscow competitions were a qualifying part of Latte Art Russian Championship (final happened on the 17—18 of April in Saint Petersburg). There were 17 baristas in Moscow Qualifying Brewers Cup Championship based on rules of Open Service. Roman Sterkhov, Tasty Coffee (Izhevsk), was the winner; Lev Reshetnyak, TChK Coffeeshop (Saint Petersburg), was on the silver place; Svetlana Shatokhina, Rockets Coffee Roasters (Moscow) became the bronze owner. This round was the one from qualifying list, final happened on the 20—22th of April. Coffee Fragrance Championship was held for the second straight year as a part of Russian Barista Days. The idea of it is to define the growing location by the fragrance of dry ground coffee and by the fragrance of brewed coffee in the final. 25 professionals participated, only six of them was finalists, and just two took part by the results of qualifying rounds in regions. Aleksandr Karpunin, Broker Coffee, was called the winner; his result is 5 cups for 1 minute and 2 seconds. Championship was organized by Coffee&Tea in Russia Magazine and SFT Trading Company.
National Award Roaster Of The Year is also one of the most fascinating championship, it usually attracts a lot of Russian roasters. Participants bring for cupping to judges coffee with obligatory roasting (coffee was sponsoped by KLD Coffee Importers Company) and also coffee with arbitrary roasting, choosen by roasters themselves. On the first day judges was cupping coffee from the obligatory roasting, 20 professionalists with the highest scores were choosen for the next step. The second day was about arbitrary roasting. At the same time exhibition guests could taste coffee from all of 29 participants and then voted for the best six, who had been selected by two rounds results of judges cuppings. With all points summed up, winners of two categories were defined: Sergey Tabera (Torrefacto Company) as The Best Roastmaster of 2018, Torrefacto Company as The Best Company in Arbitrary Roasting Category. On the last day of exhibition (March 17) there was a competition between baristas in National Award Barista of The Year, where they could show their skills and expertise in preparation of classic drinks – espresso, milk drink and coffee made by one of the manual brewing methods. General sponsors – Satori Intento Company and La Cimbali Group – helped with coffee machines and grinders. Yury Fomin, Coffee Like (Izhevsk), awarded a national prize. We conglatulate Yury and wish him a successful journey to Italy, where he will visit MUMAC Academy, attend an educational SCA standards barista course and take a wonderful coffee tour in Milan!
11
COFFEE&TEA INTERNATIONAL 2/2018
THE ORGANIZERS ARE THANKFUL TO THE SPONSORS AND PARTNERS
The next Russian Barista Days will be held on March 13-15, 2019 The photo report of the event is available on the official website www.baristabattle.ru
13
PR-NEWS
THE UNITED STATES ANNOUNCES THE WITHDRAW FROM THE INTERNATIONAL COFFEE AGREEMENT
ICO LAUNCHES ANNUAL AWARD COMPETITION FOR EXCELLENCE IN COFFEE-RELATED RESEARCH comunicaffe.com
comunicaffe.com
The United States is leaving the International Coffee Organization (ICO). In fact, the Government of the US has announced its withdraw from the International Coffee Agreement (ICA) 2007, the international commodity agreement between coffee producing and consuming countries, aimed at strengthening the global coffee sector.
T
he press release does not give the reasons why the US has decided to withdraw from the agreement. However, ever since coming to power, US President Donald Trump is on campaign to delink his country from agreements that he feels do not have economic sense to its citizens. The United States was among the founders of the ICO in 1963. Washington pulled out from the Organization in 1993, in response to the establishment by 29 coffee producing countries of the ACPC (Association of Coffee Producing Countries). The country returned to full membership in February 2005.
FORMER SCAE EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR DAVID VEAL TO LEAVE SCA AT THE END OF JUNE comunicaffe.com
The Specialty Coffee Association (SCA) announced yesterday that David Veal leaved the association at the end of June 2018.
D
avid was Executive Director of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE) from 2011 until 2017, overseeing a strong growth in their membership, activity COFFEE&TEA INTERNATIONAL 2/2018
Within the framework of its Five-Year Action Plan, namely Strategic Goal II (B) ‘Priority actions to strengthen engagement with third parties’, the International Coffee Organization is launching an annual award competition for young economists to submit papers related to the coffee sector.
T
his essay writing competition is expected to stimulate research on emerging issues in the global coffee sector while strengthening partnerships of the Organization with universities and research institutions. The competition is open to all economists and researchers in social sciences who are in the process of completing a PhD or who have completed their degree in the last five years, from an ICO Member country or affiliated to an institution based in a Member country, with a proven interest in the area of coffee economics. To enter the competition, the candidate should submit his/her essay, thesis work or journal article, in an official language of the ICO (English, French, Portuguese and Spanish), preferably English, which should not exceed [15,000] words. and engagement in the coffee community. Latterly, he has been acting as Executive Ambassador for the SCA, working with the various partners of the association to promote specialty coffee at all stages of the value chain. Said David, «I have been blessed and privileged to have served our speciality coffee community whilst travelling on a great journey both with SCAE and latterly with the fledgling SCA, and have made so many good friends along the way. Our association, and indeed our industry, is now entering a new and exciting phase and I wish all of my colleagues and friends great success in the coming months and years as they help shape the future of our coffee community. I will move on to pastures new, hopefully in the coffee industry, so I am sure that our paths will cross, both in the next few weeks, and in the future.»
CAPSULES FOR SPIEF orimi.com
RUSSIA INCREASES TEA EXPORTS TO AZERBAIJAN en.trend.az
Orimi Trade Group of Companies has traditionally become an official partner of the St. Petersburg International Economic Forum, which was held in the Northern Capital of Russia on May 24-26. The long-term partnership between Orimi Trade and SPIEF began in 2006; all these years the company has been an exclusive supplier of tea and coffee, Greenfield tea and Jardin coffee are official Forum hot drinks.
T
he business program of the SPIEF-2018 was divided into several blocks, including: “Russia: using growth potential”, “Global economy in the era of change”, “Human capital in the digital economy”, “Technologies for leadership”, “Conversations about the future”. The Plenary meeting, which took place on May 25, was attended by the President of the Russian Federation Vladimir Putin, the President of the French Republic Emmanuel Macron, the Prime Minister of Japan Shinzo Abe, the Vice President of the People’s Republic of China Wang Qishan and the Managing Director of the International Monetary Fund Christine Lagarde. As a part of the strategic partnership, Orimi Trade hosted the Greenfield-Jardin business communication zones at the SPIEF, where the global presentation of the new products – Greenfield tea and Jardin coffee in aluminum capsules compatible with Nespresso machines – was happening. These capsules are a new offer of Orimi Trade: for the first time this product was shown at the Prodexpo-2018 exhibition. The variations of Greenfield and Jardin capsules meet actual consumer preferences, but do not duplicate the regular brands assortment. In the Greenfield collection the types of tea with high demand on the market can be found: black, black flavored, green flavored, herbal flavored (without caffeine content). The Jardin collection demonstrates the most popular recipes – espresso, ristretto, lungo, flavored coffee. Also there was a large-scale tasting of all varieties of Greenfield tea and Jardin coffee in aluminum capsules, which was organized for participants of the St. Petersburg Economic Forum-2018.
Over the past three years, Russia has increased export of tea products to Azerbaijan by 60 percent, to 640 tons per year, Retail.ru website reported referring to Ramaz Chanturiya, director general of the Rusteacoffee – Russian Association of Tea and Coffee Producers.
H
e said that for a long time Azerbaijani distributors showed no interest in importing russian tea, however, the Association has been negotiating over the past 5—6 years to correct this situation. In general, Russia increased tea exports to $41.1 million in 2017, according to the website. Russia’s tea exports stood at $36.1 million in 2015 and $31.4 million in 2016. In physical terms, exports grew 23 percent in 2017 compared to 2016 and reached 7,000 tons.
15
REVIEW&STATISTICS
© Euromonitor International 201
GERMAN HOT DRINKS MARKET PERFORMS WELL The hot drinks market in Germany performed well in 2017, benefiting from stronger demand for healthy beverages and a wide range of options, which can be prepared quickly, thus suiting the busy lifestyles of the working population. In addition, more consumers were willing to try new flavours and specialities, which are providing new taste experiences. The thriving German economy undoubtedly supported the value sales growth of hot drinks as it enabled more Germans to spend money on more expensive hot beverages.
Market Sizes | Historical/Forecast. Germany. Retail Value RSP, EUR million (Constant 2017 Prices) CATEGORY
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
2019
2020
2021
2022
Hot Drinks
6 623.6
6 720.3
6 702.9
6 744.8
6 773.5
6 813.3
6 868.3
6 931.8
7 000.3
7 084.3
Coffee
4 795.2
4 910.6
4 870.3
4 894.4
4 884.3
4 886.1
4 903.5
4 931.6
4 966.0
5 014.9
Fresh Coffee
4 014.9
4 153.6
4 132.3
4 147.3
4 149.7
4 167.0
4 197.8
4 237.3
4 281.8
4 337.7
Instant Coffee
780.3
757.0
737.9
747.1
734.5
719.1
705.7
694.3
684.2
677.2
1 569.2
1 544.0
1 563.9
1 580.7
1 618.3
1 659.6
1 699.3
1 736.5
1 771.9
1 808.6
Black Tea
344.3
337.8
335.2
337.0
340.3
344.0
348.6
353.8
359.7
365.8
Fruit/Herbal Tea
928.0
906.7
921.1
950.9
985.6
1 016.1
1 043.9
1 068.4
1 090.7
1 114.0
Green Tea
121.4
124.9
129.6
131.6
135.0
139.6
144.7
150.4
156.4
161.5
Instant Tea
1.1
1.1
1.1
1.1
1.1
1.1
1.1
1.1
1.1
1.1
Tea
Other Tea
174.3
173.6
176.8
160.1
156.2
158.7
161.0
162.7
164.0
166.3
Other Hot Drinks
259.3
265.7
268.8
269.7
270.9
267.6
265.6
263.8
262.4
260.8
Market Sizes | Historical/Forecast, Germany. Retail Volume, Tonnes CATEGORY
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
2019
2020
2021
2022
Hot Drinks
492 729.6
484 806.9
477 993.3
480 231.5
481 305.2
481 283.7
482 544.1
484 912.3
488 071.3
490 366.4
Coffee
380 169.6
372 315.2
364 391.4
365 551.6
365 130.1
364 887.7
366 121.4
368 535.3
371 808.8
374 340.1
Fresh Coffee
329 541.1
323 024.3
315 742.2
315 430.5
314 533.8
314 385.3
315 500.5
317 673.9
320 824.6
323 364.2
Instant Coffee
50 628.5
49 291.0
48 649.2
50 121.1
50 596.3
50 502.4
50 620.9
50 861.4
50 984.2
50 975.9
Tea
53 368.4
52 724.9
53 278.9
53 847.3
54 828.1
55 857.3
56 832.6
57 765.2
58 612.0
59 425.6
Black Tea
13 484.9
13 247.8
13 091.3
13 087.3
13 098.1
13 097.2
13 124.7
13 160.9
13 209.3
13 268.0
Fruit/Herbal Tea
32 357.3
31 761.4
32 270.9
33 126.4
34 100.9
34 975.3
35 772.2
36 519.5
37 176.8
37 792.2
Green Tea
4 009.6
4 148.4
4 282.8
4 316.8
4 375.2
4 460.8
4 553.5
4 650.1
4 747.4
4 833.7
Instant Tea
101.3
100.2
99.1
98.1
97.4
96.8
96.5
96.4
96.8
97.6
Other Tea
3 415.3
3 467.2
3 534.8
3 218.7
3 156.4
3 227.2
3 285.8
3 338.3
3 381.7
3 434.1
Other Hot Drinks
59 191.7
59 766.8
60 323.1
60 832.5
61 347.1
60 538.8
59 590.1
58 611.8
57 650.6
56 600.8
COFFEE&TEA INTERNATIONAL 2/2018
NORWAY: A STAGNANT PERFORMANCE FOR HOT DRINKS Overall, hot drinks in Norway witnessed a stagnant performance in retail volume terms in 2017. The lack of growth stems primarily from a decline in large, mature categories including standard fresh ground coffee and tea bags black standard, which are facing strong competition from fresh coffee beans and fruit/herbal tea, respectively. The shifts in the market are highly impacted by increasingly sophisticated consumer preferences and a trend for healthier living. However, these products typically carry a higher unit price than their more mature counterparts, therefore benefiting value sales.
Market Sizes | Historical/Forecast. Norway. Retail Value RSP, NOK million (Constant 2017 Prices) CATEGORY
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
2019
2020
2021
2022
Hot Drinks
3 937.2
3 918.7
4 001.9
3 905.6
3 918.5
3 945.5
3 955.1
3 976.7
3 995.6
4 014.4
Coffee
3 252.0
3 212.8
3 281.9
3 196.8
3 211.6
3 234.3
3 236.4
3 250.6
3 260.9
3 270.0
Fresh Coffee
2 760.9
2 744.5
2 828.3
2 758.4
2 778.4
2 801.4
2 802.3
2 814.4
2 822.0
2 828.3
Instant Coffee
491.0
468.3
453.6
438.4
433.2
432.9
434.0
436.2
438.9
441.8
Tea
388.5
403.3
411.1
405.7
405.1
406.8
411.9
418.0
424.8
432.1
Black Tea
219.6
221.4
219.8
211.8
209.0
208.0
209.8
212.5
216.0
219.9
Fruit/Herbal Tea
77.2
85.4
95.1
102.6
107.6
111.4
115.5
119.5
123.4
127.2
Green Tea
72.3
77.3
75.2
70.7
68.2
67.2
66.5
66.0
65.6
65.4
Instant Tea
13.9
13.2
14.6
14.2
13.8
13.6
13.3
12.9
12.5
12.1
Other Tea
5.5
5.9
6.3
6.5
6.5
6.6
6.8
7.0
7.2
7.5
296.8
302.7
309.0
303.1
301.8
304.4
306.9
308.1
309.9
312.3
Other Hot Drinks
Market Sizes | Historical/Forecast. Norway. Retail Volume, Tonnes CATEGORY
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
2019
2020
2021
2022
Hot Drinks
28 827.4
28 687.2
28 402.4
28 229.1
28 221.0
28 214.0
28 281.0
28 340.1
28 391.4
28 414.7
Coffee
25 261.7
25 086.5
24 775.0
24 683.5
24 691.9
24 692.5
24 757.5
24 806.9
24 841.4
24 843.3
Fresh Coffee
23 933.0
23 788.0
23 487.8
23 409.5
23 419.8
23 415.0
23 469.4
23 506.1
23 525.9
23 511.9
Instant Coffee
1 328.7
1 298.5
1 287.2
1 274.0
1 272.1
1 277.5
1 288.1
1 300.8
1 315.5
1 331.4
Tea
682.5
697.5
696.0
677.6
681.6
683.1
687.5
693.2
699.9
707.1
Black Tea
423.7
429.0
419.8
404.1
404.8
404.8
407.6
411.9
417.3
423.4
Fruit/Herbal Tea
68.5
73.3
80.5
87.3
93.2
97.0
100.6
103.9
106.9
109.8
Green Tea
128.5
135.2
129.6
121.7
119.4
117.8
116.7
116.0
115.4
115.1
Instant Tea
55.0
52.8
58.5
56.8
56.3
55.4
54.3
52.9
51.4
49.8
Other Tea
6.8
7.3
7.6
7.8
7.9
8.0
8.2
8.5
8.7
9.0
2 883.2
2 903.2
2 931.5
2 868.0
2 847.6
2 838.4
2 836.1
2 840.0
2 850.0
2 864.3
Other Hot Drinks
17
REVIEW&STATISTICS
POLAND: STEADY PERFORMANCE FOR HOT DRINKS The growing affluence of the average Polish consumer positively affects the demand for fmcg, including hot drinks. Volume sales are expected to continue growing fastest in the on-trade channel over the forecast period. Consumers often prefer to drink a hot drink in a coffee shop or restaurant, instead of traditional at-home consumption. This trend significantly supported the performances of all three categories in hot drinks. Meanwhile, retail value sales outpaced volume sales in growth terms, as unit prices rose. In tea, black tea slowly lost ground to fruit/herbal tea and green tea, which account for most new product developments. In coffee, total volume sales growth owed most to the on-trade channel. Meanwhile, other hot drinks retail volume sales declined in 2017 due to the negative growth performance of its leading subcategory, flavoured powder drinks.
Market Sizes | Historical/Forecast. Poland. Retail Value RSP, PLN million (Constant 2017 Prices) CATEGORY
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
2019
2020
2021
2022
Hot Drinks
6 374.4
6 463.3
6 689.6
6 951.6
6 974.6
7 013.3
7 028.0
7 046.2
7 066.6
7 087.6
Coffee
3 892.4
3 980.9
4 162.4
4 297.3
4 277.4
4 293.6
4 291.7
4 287.2
4 279.3
4 265.2
Fresh Coffee
2 169.2
2 274.5
2 447.1
2 576.6
2 601.3
2 637.8
2 664.7
2 686.8
2 703.6
2 705.5
Instant Coffee
1 723.2
1 706.4
1 715.3
1 720.6
1 676.2
1 655.7
1 627.0
1 600.4
1 575.8
1 559.7
Tea
2 181.8
2 172.5
2 196.8
2 312.6
2 358.3
2 384.3
2 405.3
2 433.0
2 465.0
2 500.6
Black Tea
1 273.1
1 239.9
1 226.2
1 294.3
1 320.1
1 307.3
1 294.1
1 284.9
1 278.4
1 271.3
Fruit/Herbal Tea
575.5
585.7
604.0
644.4
670.5
705.2
731.9
759.6
786.5
818.0
Green Tea
235.3
244.7
258.6
273.4
275.9
287.4
300.9
315.5
331.6
346.7
Other Tea Other Hot Drinks
97.9
102.3
108.0
100.5
91.9
84.4
78.3
73.0
68.6
64.6
300.2
309.9
330.4
341.8
338.9
335.4
330.9
326.1
322.2
321.7
Market Sizes | Historical/Forecast. Poland. Retail Volume, Tonnes CATEGORY
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
2019
2020
2021
2022
Hot Drinks
128 406.9
129 853.1
132 178.7
133 582.2
134 144.9
135 330.7
136 288.4
137 158.1
137 877.3
138 665.2
Coffee
88 544.7
90 094.2
92 241.3
93 681.8
94 373.2
95 418.7
96 191.9
96 825.8
97 229.8
97 627.3
Fresh Coffee
64 855.1
66 374.2
68 298.4
69 259.0
69 691.8
70 421.6
70 932.1
71 271.2
71 455.6
71 608.4
Instant Coffee
23 689.6
23 719.9
23 942.9
24 422.8
24 681.4
24 997.1
25 259.8
25 554.6
25 774.2
26 018.9
Tea
29 145.2
28 800.0
28 603.2
28 540.4
28 502.9
28 724.4
29 023.7
29 385.4
29 769.7
30 147.4
Black Tea
18 046.8
19 409.7
18 903.0
18 533.6
18 362.6
18 211.9
18 135.6
18 087.9
18 063.8
18 055.0
Fruit/Herbal Tea
7 134.2
7 226.0
7 314.2
7 420.3
7 539.3
7 800.1
8 085.5
8 391.5
8 690.5
8 977.7
Green Tea
1 956.5
2 010.2
2 074.9
2 137.7
2 182.5
2 259.3
2 352.9
2 459.2
2 576.0
2 694.6
Other Tea Other Hot Drinks
644.8
660.9
680.6
619.6
569.3
529.4
497.5
471.0
448.2
428.3
10 717.0
10 959.0
11 334.1
11 360.0
11 268.7
11 187.6
11 072.8
10 946.9
10 877.7
10 890.5
COFFEE&TEA INTERNATIONAL 2/2018
UNITED KINGDOM: YOUNGER CONSUMERS CHANGE THE DYNAMICS IN HOT DRINKS Tea is no longer the most consumed hot drink in the UK. While it still accounts for the biggest share in off-trade with the rise of the café culture, coffee is now the most important hot drink in total volume terms. Younger consumers are the biggest driver of this shift. With the increase of out-of-home consumption and younger consumers less emotionally connected with standard tea, coffee saw volume growth. However, consumers seeking an experience together with manufacturers’ efforts to change tea may encourage consumers to rediscover their love of tea.
Market Sizes | Historical/Forecast. United Kingdom. Retail Value RSP, GBP million (Constant 2017 Prices) CATEGORY
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
2019
2020
2021
2022
Hot Drinks
2 521.1
2 525.5
2 607.3
2 639.3
2 652.0
2 688.3
2 725.6
2 760.4
2 795.6
2 833.3
Coffee
1 482.0
1 511.2
1 576.9
1 592.1
1 604.7
1 616.5
1 633.2
1 651.0
1 669.8
1 689.4
441.5
506.9
588.3
634.5
685.7
735.9
786.6
834.1
878.0
919.4
Fresh Coffee Instant Coffee
1 040.5
1 004.3
988.6
957.5
919.1
880.7
846.5
817.0
791.9
770.0
Tea
828.1
808.5
822.6
850.2
861.9
891.6
915.6
935.3
954.4
972.5
Black Tea
630.3
597.1
593.0
604.5
602.1
613.4
621.2
626.7
631.8
637.0
Fruit/Herbal Tea
123.8
131.4
142.0
151.6
160.1
171.2
181.6
191.4
201.6
211.5
Green Tea
32.6
38.4
45.3
51.2
56.2
62.0
66.8
70.4
73.3
75.8
Instant Tea
17.9
17.4
17.1
16.7
16.4
16.5
16.6
16.5
16.5
16.4
Other Tea
23.4
24.2
25.2
26.2
27.0
28.5
29.5
30.3
31.1
31.8
Other Hot Drinks
211.0
205.8
207.8
197.1
185.4
180.1
176.9
174.0
171.3
171.4
Market Sizes | Historical/Forecast. United Kingdom. Retail Volume, Tonnes CATEGORY
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
2019
2020
2021
2022
Hot Drinks
186 360.0
184 793.8
185 531.8
184 165.3
181 080.9
179 966.0
179 926.5
180 274.4
181 009.0
182 075.7
Coffee
72 991.8
75 018.6
76 838.9
76 727.0
74 795.7
74 230.4
74 445.7
74 931.0
75 724.6
76 582.4
Fresh Coffee
25 054.7
27 192.1
29 963.2
31 671.8
33 317.8
34 951.2
36 495.1
37 892.1
39 169.6
40 343.9
Instant Coffee
47 937.1
47 826.4
46 875.7
45 055.2
41 478.0
39 279.1
37 950.6
37 038.9
36 555.0
36 238.5
Tea
94 849.1
91 519.1
90 553.7
90 047.0
89 707.0
89 631.9
89 676.9
89 833.1
90 034.5
90 287.9
Black Tea
88 000.5
84 323.3
82 909.3
81 980.3
81 196.9
80 690.3
80 325.4
80 068.7
79 878.2
79 746.4
Fruit/Herbal Tea
3 457.2
3 645.5
3 882.1
4 107.5
4 364.5
4 629.3
4 877.3
5 121.1
5 357.9
5 589.4
Green Tea
1 447.6
1 596.6
1 795.4
1 976.2
2 149.8
2 308.0
2 469.7
2 639.9
2 798.3
2 957.8
Instant Tea
1 191.9
1 187.8
1 179.8
1 170.2
1 159.4
1 146.5
1 132.7
1 118.2
1 102.8
1 086.3
Other Tea
751.9
765.9
787.1
812.8
836.4
857.8
871.9
885.1
897.2
907.9
18 519.1
18 256.1
18 139.3
17 391.3
16 578.3
16 103.8
15 803.9
15 510.3
15 249.9
15 205.4
Other Hot Drinks
19
SCIENCE&TECHNOLOGY
Erol Uman, Maxwell Colonna-Dashwood, Lesley Colonna-Dashwood, Matthew Perger, Christian Klatt, Stephen Leighton, Brian Miller, Keith T. Butler, Brent C. Melot, Rory W. Speirs & Christopher H. Hendon
ABSTRACT Coffee is prepared by the extraction of a complex array of organic molecules from the roasted bean, which has been ground into fine particulates. The extraction depends on temperature, water chemistry and also the accessible surface area of the coffee. Here we investigate whether variations in the production processes of single origin coffee beans affects the particle size distribution upon grinding. We find that the particle size distribution is independent of the bean origin and processing method. Furthermore, we elucidate the influence of bean temperature on particle size distribution, concluding that grinding cold results in a narrower particle size distribution, and reduced mean particle size. We anticipate these results will influence the production of coffee industrially, as well as contribute to how we store and use coffee daily. INTRODUCTION2 Irrespective of the variety, all coffee is processed in one of three general methods. The washing (or wet) process is the most common, and uses water to remove the skin and fruit of the cherry, leaving only the seeds to dry in the sun. The pulped (pulped natural) processing method removes the skin from the cherry, but does not fully remove the mucilage. This then forms a sun-hardened sugar-rich shell around the parchment (the thin protective layer for the seed). The natural process is simply the sun-drying of the coffee cherries with both seed and fruit intact. Whilst the processing method used has a profound impact on flavour, the chemical mechanisms which dictate these differences are not well-understood. Regardless of the cherry processing method, after drying the beans are hulled, which exposes the bean by removing all the dry parchment, mucilage, or skin. The green coffee beans are then transported to roasteries, where the roaster develops a roast profile with the aim of producing the most flavoursome cup to their palate. The roast profile is a two variable problem of temperature and time, but due to limitations of roasting equipment and the inhomogeneity of heat transfer into green
coffee [14]3, the development of a roast profile is more artistic than scientific, although there is certainly room for improvement in this area. The roast profile presented in Fig. 1 shows the measured roaster temperature as the roasting progresses for the particular Tanzanian coffee listed in Table 1. The chemical constituents of roasted coffee depend on the temperatures of green coffee molecular decomposition. The generation and concentration control of these compounds is achieved through fine tuning of the roast profile [15,16,17]. Whilst most compounds in roasted coffee are likely Maillard products (an example of which is not shown in Fig. 1) [18], we present various pathways that permit the formation of acids, phenolic compounds, and also the cleavage of cellulose into sugar-related products like levoglucosan. The left-most process in Fig. 1 shows an example of decomposition of a chlorogenic acid (a group of molecules contributing to 66 % of the acidity in green coffee) through low temperature hydrolysis, in which the formation of products depend on the water content within the seed [19,20]. FIGURE 1: THE ROAST PROFILE FOR THE TANZANIAN BURKA (Has Bean).
In this case, 10 kg of the Burka coffee was roasted in a 2 kg Probat Roaster. The temperature was monitored with a probe in the headspace of the oven, and hence the hot air rapidly cools due to thermal energy transfer to the green coffee. The temperature trajectory throughout the roasting process determines the decomposition of organic materials in coffee. Three illustrative decomposition reactions are shown that are representative processes throughout the heating process. At low-
Table 1: Details on the four coffees (Coffea arabica) that were ground in this experiment: two African and two South American.
Farm/Estate
1 2 3
Origin
Variety
Roaster
Roast
Agtron colour
Las Ilusiones (W)
Guatemala
Caturra and Bourbon
Round Hill
Espresso
62
Santa Petrona (W)
El Salvador
Pacamara
Has Bean
Espresso
59
Burka (W)
Tanzania
Red Bourbon
Has Bean
Espresso
59
Sasaba (N)
Ethiopia
Mixed Heirloom
James Gourmet
Filter
68
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License. The full version of the Introduction is available here: https://www.nature.com/articles/srep24483 Here and below references are available by the link: https://www.nature.com/articles/srep24483#ref14
COFFEE&TEA INTERNATIONAL 2/2018
er temperature a chlorogenic acid (left) may decompose through either hydrolysis or pyrolysis into quinic acid, acetic acid and the phenolic compound 3,4-dihydroxybenzyl alcohol [40], or quinic acid, carbon dioxide and 3,4-dihydroxystyrene [41,42]. Oxalic acid (centre) may decarboxylate to either CO2 or in the case of incomplete combustion CO2 and formic acid [19]. At higher temperatures cellulose can undergo hydrolysis to smaller sugar derivatives including glucose and levoclucosan [43,44,45]. Both the temperature and time determine the chemical composition of the roasted coffee: In this case, the coffee was removed from the oven after 9 m 54 s as this time was determined to result in a soluble, sweet and favourably acidic product. Undoubtedly the extent and quality of extraction is dictated by the accessibility of the organic molecules contained within roasted coffee. Many factors influence the total amount, and relative proportions of the different organic molecules extracted, including temperature of brew, water chemistry and water-to-coffee ratio [21,22,23,24]. Here, however, we are specifically concerned with physical method of increasing accessible surface area; i. e. the effect of the grinder. Whilst routine in the pharmaceutical industry, it is challenging to both design and execute a grind to a homogeneous particle size in a coffee shop. This, however, is of critical importance in coffee brewing because variable accessible surface area causes the small particles to extract more rapidly relative to larger ones. As a result, brewing coffee is challenging with variable particle size, especially in espresso-style pressurised brews, where packing effects become important [25,26]. Given the importance of particle size, we assess if bean origin, cherry processing method, and roast profile have any significant effect on the particle size distribution of the ground coffee. Additionally, it was suspected that the temperature of the beans could also influence the bean fracturing dynamics, and therefore the final size distribution. Whilst ideally the beans and burrs would both be brought to the desired temperature, controlled active heating or cooling of the burrs is not presently feasible. To investigate the temperature effects we pursued the controlled cooling of the coffee itself. Given that many people store coffee in the refrigerator or freezer (if devoid of water vapour this is a chemically reasonable method of storage), we examine if varying bean temperature results in an observable modulation of grind distribution. METHODS4 For this study, it was assumed that the most important property of the ground coffee which can vary in the grinding process is the distribution of particle sizes. Whilst it is possible that particle shape may have an effect on the final extracted brew, it is difficult to see how this can be reliably controlled on the micrometer scale, and it is likely that most ground coffee has a similar spread of particle shapes. The first set of experiments explored if the origin, type, or processing method of the bean had any effect on the particle size distribution, when ground under 4 5
identical conditions. The second set of measurements explored if bean temperature at the time of grinding had any effect on produced particle size distribution. COFFEE ORIGIN AND PROCESSING To determine if bean origin has an effect on particle size distribution after grinding, beans were tested from four countries: Guatemala, El Salvador, Tanzania, and Ethiopia. The beans had been roasted by roasteries listed in Table 1, between seven and sixteen days prior to the grinding test, and so had sufficient time for CO2 degassing, but were still considered “freshly roasted”. Further details of the four coffees considered in this study are presented in Table 1. All beans were allowed to equilibriate to room temperature (at the time, 20 °C and 79 % relative humidity), densities of the roasted coffee beans were not measured. The grinder burr aperture was kept constant for all coffees throughout the experiment, fixed at 2.7 (arbitrary units). For each measurement, 20 grams of coffee was ground, and the grinder was allowed to cool for 10 minutes after each grind (returning to room temperature). COFFEE TEMPERATURE For temperature studies, we selected the Guatemalan coffee because this particular Guatemalan crop is representative of contemporary speciality grade coffee (i.e. it has a favourable balance of acidity, floral complexity and overall taste). The four temperatures were achieved using the following method: 20 g of whole roasted coffee beans were placed into a paper cup, covered, and placed into either liquid nitrogen, a tub of dry ice, the freezer and on the counter top. No visible condensation of atmospheric water was observed on any of the samples cooled below 0 °C. The beans were equilibriated at each temperature for 2 hours prior to grinding. The grinder was switched on 5 seconds before grinding and the beans were taken directly from their climates and fed into the hopper. To prevent condensation of atmospheric water onto the surface of the ground coffee, the ground particulates were immediately placed into sample vials for laser diffraction particle size analysis. Absorption of atmospheric water proved not to be a problem, as duplicate samples which were exposed to atmospheric moisture as they equilibrated to room temperature, showed no difference to those that where sealed immediately upon grinding. Each data set was obtained in triplicate, and each temperature was obtained in duplicate thereby generating 6 data sets per temperature. ANOVA was employed for determination of similarities in particle number distributions with consideration of the bean origin, processing method, roast and roaster included. The output of this statistical analysis is included in the supporting information5. DO DIFFERENCES IN THE GREEN BEAN AFFECT THE FINAL GRIND? The physical structure of roasted coffee beans is a complex composite of materials, containing high molecular weight fibrous molecules interspersed with amorphous and partially crystalline domains of a vast array of smaller organics. The extremely complex structure of both
The full version of the Metods is available here: https://www.nature.com/articles/srep24483 Supporting information is available here: https://www.nature.com/articles/srep24483
21
SCIENCE&TECHNOLOGY
the roasted beans and grinding apparatus makes accurate first principles modeling a daunting prospect, and so fracturing is best studied experimentally (in line with previous studies of grinding other amorphous materials) [28,29,30,31,32]. That said, it could well be expected that the specific mix of chemicals that give different coffees their distinctive flavour may change the way in which the bean is fragmentised. To investigate this, we elected to sample four speciality grade coffees. The selection spans the variables of origin, variety, processing method and roast profile, and is a representative cross section of contemporary speciality coffee. The four coffees described in Table 1 were ground at ambient conditions using the stipulated methods. For espresso, the coffee grinds can be thought of as a granular material, where the increase in pressure during tamping jams the materials [4,35,36]. The variability in particle size plays a significant role in the accessible surface area, but also in the vacuous space in which the water may flow through. From the work of Herman [37], it is apparent that large particles install significant order of neighbouring small particles, which increases local density and therefore can result in inhomogeneous water flow through the espresso puck. However, given the subjectivity of coffee flavour and the preferences of prac-
titioners working in the industry, it is not clear if there is an ideal particle size distribution: We only hope to shed light on the surprising consistencies between coffees. DO DIFFERENCES IN THE ROASTED BEAN GRIND TEMPERATURE AFFECT THE FINAL GRIND? Temperature changes in amorphous materials can lead to well defined glass transitions, where the material changes from rubbery and flexible to being hard and brittle [38]. Some solids can also undergo shattering transitions, where there is an increased fragmentation rate as particle size decreases, resulting in production of greater numbers of fine particles [39]. This property is instigated by both temperature and crack velocity. It is understood that crystalline materials progress towards this shatter transition point with decreased temperature, because the strain on the lattice becomes proportionally larger with decreased lattice kinetics. However, roasted coffee is a complex material and glass or shattering transition points are unlikely to be constant across macroscopic regions of the bean, if present at all. Therefore, while it is reasonable to expect that a change in temperature will affect the grinding result, describing how and why this occurred is problematic. Experiment provides the simplest and most reliable route to assessing how temperature influences ground coffee particle size. The lower the original bean temperature, the colder the produced particles will be at every stage of grinding. However colder bean fragments will absorb heat from their surroundings more quickly due to the larger temperature gradient, effectively reducing the indicated temperature difference between the samples. Therefore, the observed change in grind profile should be considered a lower limit on the effects of grinding at reduced temperatures. Given the inhomogeneous nature of the beans, it is likely that cooling the burrs (and hence further reducing the temperature of the particles as they are ground) would smoothly continue the trend observed in Fig. 2. APPLICATIONS AND CONCLUDING REMARKS In busy coffee shops, it is common practice to reduce burr grinding aperture as the day progresses in order to produce a consistent cup of coffee. From work presented here, we propose
COFFEE&TEA INTERNATIONAL 2/2018
that this phenomenon is a direct product of the grinding burrs becoming increasingly warm as the grinder is used. The particle warming at the interface between the coffee bean and warm burr – which can certainly be much higher in temperature than explored in this study – shifts both the mode and spread of the particle size distribution. Thus, as the grinder gets warm a finer grind setting may be required to obtain the same effective surface area as the same coffee ground on cooler burrs. However, we also observe a difference in the shape of the distribution with temperature, which indicates that simply grinding finer with warm burrs will not produce the same result as grinding coarsely with cold burrs. The impact on taste and preference is not the focus of this study, but is certainly an interesting avenue to explore in the future. The distinct lack of dependence on origin and processing method is comforting for coffee shops that serve coffees from multiple origins, and also for roasters who develop and market blends (mixtures of origins). One grand challenge with blended coffee is to produce a product where each desired component is equally soluble, such that the cup of coffee tastes appropriately extracted. Consider the traditional blend of Brazilian and Ethiopian coffees: The two are combined to obtain the body and nuttiness from the Brazilian, and the fruit and complexity from the Ethiopian. But such results are only obtained if both beans reach terminal extraction at similar rates. Here, we have minimised one variable by showing that at least the accessible surface area is kept constant whilst grinding, thereby placing the chemical problems associated with blending solely on the roast profile. From a physical chemistry perspective, the temperature dependence presents many interesting questions. Given the minimal difference between liquid nitrogen and dry ice temperatures and the reversibility of the cooling, we question whether it is possible in the future to cryogenically store roasted coffee at these temperatures. Indeed, water content in the roasted bean is of paramount importance at these temperatures, as water expansion may lead to be fracturing. Also, prolonged exposure to water can result in the solvation of flavoursome molecules, thereby decreasing the lifetime of the frozen product. But if these variables were managed, there are a host of subsequent implications for the storage and relative quality assessment allowing for access to direct year-to-year comparison of crop quality. From a consumption perspective, cooling of coffee beans significantly decreases the rate of mass loss through volatile sublimation/evaporation. Thus, coffee that is ground and brewed cold could potentially demonstrate increased aroma and or flavour in the eventual brewed cup. From an industrial perspective, the yield of extraction is paramount. Grinding colder coffee beans produces a more uniform particle distribution, with a decreased particle size. While the decreased particle size will tend to speed up extraction due to the larger surface area, the increased uniformity should minimise the amount of wasted bean, which is discarded without being extracted to completion. Whilst active cooling of either the coffee beans or burrs is energy consuming, the benefit of cold coffee grinding may offset this cost with more efficient extraction from the smaller particles. 23
News
Thousands of coffee professionals gathered in Amsterdam for World of Coffee (WOC), Europe’s largest coffee trade show, and the host of the 2018 World Barista Championship. Just under 11,000 professionals from across Europe and around the globe registered to attend, breaking records for the event. Sponsored by BWT water+more, WOC Amsterdam put a spotlight on the work of coffee farmers from Colombia, represented as this year’s Portrait Country by the Café de Colombia brand.
A
The 2018 champions are: 1. Agnieszka Rojewska – Poland 2. Lex Wenneker – The Netherlands 3. Mathieu Theis – Switzerland 4. Michalis Katsiavos – Greece 5. Cole Torode – Canada 6. John Gordon – New Zealand
HoReCa
World of Coffee Travels to Berlin in 2019 All eyes are now on Berlin as WOC heads to the German capital from June 6—8, 2019 at the Messe Convention Center. Bookings for exhibitor space are now open and filling up fast. Contact information for 2019 bookings can be found on the website at worldofcoffee.org/book-a-stand. COFFEE&TEA INTERNATIONAL 2/2018
Photos: Specialty Coffee Association
gnieszka Rojewska of Poland won the 2018 World Barista Championship (WBC). Agnieszka, a veteran of multiple coffee competitions across the globe, triumphed over 55 other baristas to become the first woman ever to win the title. 2018 World Barista Champions 55 champions from around the globe gathered in Amsterdam over four days (Jun 20—23) at the 2018 World Barista Championship, which took place inside the WOC trade show. Competitors in the WBC prepare 4 espressos, 4 milk drinks, and 4 original signature drinks to exacting standards in 15 minutes. The WBC is organized by World Coffee Events, the events management organization of the SCA.
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n first day of exhibition there were competitions in Mastery Of Tea Preparation. It passed quickly, but the audience was satisfied enough. The winner of the category was Polina Sagara (Sagara.ru).
time. It would be great to have more assignments like these!” – one of the participants said. Ekaterina Sokolova (Japanese Tea House in Mriya Resort&Spa) became a winner in this category.
On the next day two categories was held – Mastery Of Tea Tasting and Mastery Of Tea Composition. In the morning finalists demonstrated their skills in the definition of tea by taste. All participants showed up as real professionalists: they didn’t know anything about what kind of tea had been prepared by organizers. But it couldn’t prevent to determine 5 out of 5 tea tastes. In pure tea round with 5 out of 5 Nikolai Dolgiy (Orimi Trade) was the best, and he became a champion.
On the last day of exhibition participants were competing for Tea Mixology prize. It was more than just hot, because there were only the greatest names from different Russian regions. Masters not only invented cocktails with Althaus tea, DaVinci syrups and Alpro plant-based drinks (that was a mandatory condition), but also made a whole costume and music performances. It was such a magnificent finale; everyone from guests and judges totally enjoyed it. The first was Natalia Prokhorenko (Cantata). By the way, Natalia shared her victorious recipe: “My Breakfast In The Indian Ocean consisted of raspberry syrup, mashed mangoes, strong boiled pu’er and coconut milk. The second drink, Awakening, was made from white tea, infused with birch sap. It was served with mousse of raspberries and cowberry with addition of honey, pectin and birch sap. A snack to the drink was a white chocolate and raspberries truffle.” National champions have already started a preparation for the world competitions, where they will defend the honor of the Russian tea masters community.
In the middle of the second day masters were impressing judges by fantasy and imagination: “Unfortunately, we couldn’t give the first place to everyone, but this year competitors were especially strong,” – Denis Shumakov, the main judge, commented. Masters had a task based on creativity and ingenuity. It was necessary to use tea and chocolate, sponsored by the official event partner of chocolate (Sobranie Company), and make a composition form these ingredients. Members of jury were amazed by the results of finalists. “It was difficult but interesting at the same COFFEE&TEA INTERNATIONAL 2/2018
Photos: International Tea House
News HoReCa
15-17 March 2018, within the framework of the Coffee&Tea Russian Expo, over 30 tea masters from all over Russia participated in national final of Tea Masters Cup Russia. The championship was represented by four categories: Mastery Of Tea Preparation, Mastery Of Tea Composition, Mastery Of Tea Tasting and Mastery Of Tea Mixology.
Text: Aliona Velichko Рhotos: Dmitry Rudenko
This year Belarusian TMC was shorter and bigger at the same time. This year only two categories were organised but there was innovation – specially orgnaised Tea festival where TMC was the center. 4th TMC became familiar already but showed new challenges and perspectives for development.
FORMULA OF BALANCE The festival started at noon with opening of TMC and introducing the participants and the jury. Tea festival was named 9525 and that was the formula of black tea brewing – 95 degrees 2 grams and 5 minutes. This was also about 95 partners of the tea festival, 2 days and 5 grounds with different topics. Festival partners were lecturers, tea companies, art people, participants of TMC – all those who supported the idea and attracted around 2000 visitors during two days to learn more about quality of tea brewing and quality of life. There were new and old participants, from tea world and HoReCa world. Also there was a balance between new judges and old judges, old companies and new companies supporting the event. Balance in everything. FORMULA OF BEAUTIFUL COMPOSITION The first day judges from 4 countries: Belarus, Russia, Latvia and Ukraine were tasting delicious tea and food ideas. Kiril Parchinsky served white tea and jam from cones, Yury Sharoyko surprised judges with his performance devoted to sea – Hodzicha and tuna with rice. Vitaly Azarushkin served red tea Lao Cha Van with milk desert. But the winner was Elena Homich who brewed
oolong tea Huang Zhi Xiang Dan Tsun and served it with cottage cheese bisquit with jam from pear and lemon. Elena had been working in a coffee shop and became interested in tea around 6 months ago. “I fell in love with oolong tea and one of oolong I brewed at the TMC. The cake I made myself. I worked hard for several months to master my tea brewing skills and mastering my taste. Still I can’t believe I won – it makes me so happy!” The second day participants showed their skills in tea mixology. Barmen were experimenting with tea and alcohol and tea people stayed with tea avoiding alcohol. Margarita Korzun made tea soup based on Indian artisan green tea that she brought from India. Anton Soyko made Forest Gump drink with anchan, champinions, rosemary mixed with 3 different teas. The best winner turned to be Evgeny Rogov who mixed U Dun Dan Tcun with lickor liquorice-coconut, bitter cardamom and grapugruit zest. He was very pleasantly surprised as it was his first time of participating in TMC. “I am planning to show good results at international TMC and feel very honoured to be accepted in tea world at such level.” But still the level of tea preparation and tea mixology is a challenge to be overcome next year. FORMULA OF GOOD TEA MOOD To spread the word of TMC and create the good atmosphere there were organised a lot of workshops and lectures about tea and other topics. Tea bars and tea culture spots spread free tea and tea knowledge. Drums, music concerts also added to the atmosphere. – This year the tea festival and TMC were organised for the first time in summer and in the open air, breaking the stereotype that tea is a homelike cosy drink. And it worked! It was nice to see people coming with families and there were a lot of young people,– mentioned in her interview Anastasiya Timoshenya, the representative of Basilur brand which again was the general partner of the event. THE GENERAL PARTNER OF TMC BELARUS
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News
Luca Roatta is the winner of the third edition of Tea Masters Cup Italy in the category of Tea Mixology. The competition took place on Monday 18 June in the Dames Anglaises room at Skyway Mont Blanc – Courmayeur (AO) in a truly unique and evocative environment. While the award ceremony took place on the terrace of Punta Helbronner at 3 500 mt with a panoramic 360° view of Mont Blanc, top mountain in Europe.
uca managed to convince the jury with “MediTE’tion all day fizz”, a tea cocktail never prepared so “high” in the history of Mixology. It is based on Chinese Pu’Er Tea, Mezcal and Italian Brandy, garnished with a traditional Italian chocolate called “gianduiotto” with Venezuela Cocoa’s origin (limited edition) and gelée with Cocchi vermouth (both from Venchi Chocolate maker, since 1878). Three sacred elements, such as wine, in its distilled and non distilled form; the agave, hand-crafted and the Venezuelan chocolate excellence from Piedmont, combined in a mixture and topping to support a typical tea superstar: the traditional Gong Ting Pu’Er from Yunnan, for a sensory experience across 3 continents. Luca will represent Italy at the Tea Masters Cup World Final in fall. When he will challenge the Tea Tender representatives of other countries in the preparation of Tea Cocktail. Will he become the first Tea Mixologist in the world? The Tea Masters Cup Italia jury included both representatives from the tea world and mixology. The judges were: Ramaz Chanturiya, CEO of the Russian Tea and Coffee Association and creator of the Tea Masters Cup International; Nalin Modha, Indian tea planter with over 35 years of experience in the famous Tea Estate of Darjeeling, Sikkim, Nilgiri; Nicoletta Tul, Tea Expert professional in the tea world; Bernardo Ferro, ABI Professional Valle d’Aosta coordinator and National Board Member; Alessio Barchiesi, trainer and national director of MIXOLOGY Academy (professional academy for bartenders). The president of the jury was Gabriella Lombardi, Tea Sommelier and president of the Protea Association, official coordinator for Italy of the Tea Masters Cup. Source: Protea Association
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Photos: www.facebook.com/proteaacademy
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Interview HoReCa
Aliona Velichko
Sharyn Johnson is known worldwide for being an author of a wonderful book about tea and also being the tea professional who has very valuable knowledge about tea and the main thing – is ready to share her knowledge all over the world. In 2017 she was appointed the head judge of TMCI having changed at this position Denis Shumakov who had done together with the team a huge work on setting up the rules and regulations of TMC and making it all work. Sharyn has shared with the readers of Coffee and Tea International her analysis of the way done by TMC and the plans concerning her new status in the project. – Sharyn you have judged tea masters cup for couple of years and what changes have occurred within these three years? – There has been a great improvement in the TMC structure both nationally and internationally. There has been a lot more interest at a national level from people to participate and people generally are more aware of Tea Masters Cup competitions worldwide. I am lucky to have judged in quite a few countries now and the quality of performances is inspiring. You feel humbled by the experience due to the passion and commitment given to each and every performance by the participants. The TMC organization has moved quickly to change from a quite simple Tea competition with basic rules for the initial years to a very detailed and concise structure which is now world class. The judges come from a diverse range of backgrounds which is really beneficial to all industries and showcases the capacity tea has to be used in all areas of hospitality. – What is the best and the hardest thing about being a TMC judge? – Number one is the people you meet from all walks of life and from so many different countries, you experience so many diverse cultures and you make lifelong friends. The other thing is you get to experience some of the most amazing teas in the world and taste some unique flavour combinations in the different categories. The hardest thing is that you want everyone to receive a prize and sometimes the line is so fine between the winners and the secondary places you feel the pain of the participants that don’t win. – Have you got the opportunity and wish to observe backstage effects of TMC? – I think it is very interesting to observe some of the backstage effects of an event. There is a combination of nerves and anticipation but what is most interesting is the amount of technical details that goes into one tea and food pairing and then other times there is the most simple tea and food pairing which just totally blows your mind on the simplicity, elegance and the flavour. Sometimes there are meltdowns when equipment is broken or they have left behind a necessary piece of their performance. I remember one international TMC where the entire syphon set broke but the participant just modified the whole presentation and came up with a creative alternative and it was perfect.
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The other thing I notice is the sharing and the comradery between the participants. – The judges team is more or less the same all three TMC – what are the benefits of it – and will the politics of selecting judges remain the same or there are planned some changes – who can be the judge of TMC now and are there any plans of school for judges or certain certification that they will have to het in future to be able to be judges? – Yes, we have already had initial meetings regarding the judging criteria and because being a judge is such an important position in TMC we are on the process of developing training for judges and formal testing and certification. You will see and hear a lot more exciting things very soon. – The term tea master for some people from tea industry sounds a bit too pathetic – as they say that the participants are just starting their way towards being a master – can we call them masters then? – Yes we can definitely call them “masters”. They have worked so hard to get where they are and they have mastered certain areas of each category: tea preparation, tea and food pairing, tea tasting and tea mixology. The true definition of “master” is “someone who is having or showing very great skill or proficiency” so in the case of Tea Masters Cup and tea education this is very true. People should feel proud of being called a master and just because the word is “old fashioned” and often associated with Asian history it should be highly regarded and continued to be used. We need to make modern Tea Masters and help to support this new way of thinking. – How does TMC attract new countries to join the TMC community and what countries are on the waiting list? if it is not a secret... – Word of mouth and social media are the greatest tools for spreading the word. TMC has done a great job of the social media. There are a few exciting countries on the wait list but I think it wouldn’t be correct to share at the moment. It is not a matter of just saying yes any country can join. With some of the bigger countries who are interested it will take a good structure and a lot of work to make sure that the compe-
tition in these countries is successful. I am very happy with the way TMC board manages this process. – In coffee world they now make separate cups on cappuccino making or brewing etc. do you think one day we will have also several types of TMC’s? – At the moment I think what we are doing as far as categories go is being managed well.I think the great thing about the flexibility of the TMC performances is that it give participants the opportunity to use different methods of brewing in their master’s choice section.At the moment I do not feel there is a need to have several different types of TMC’s
– Anything else you would like to say about the last year international TMC? – The last years TMC were so exciting! There were so many great things about the competition and my only disappointment is that not more people could have seen the performances as they were just so brilliant. I would also like to say I am so honoured to have been asked to be the head judge of TMC and to be involved in helping us to continue to improve and grow. To showcase teas from so many different countries and to see and feel the energy in every TMC I have been involved is just such a wonderful experience.
Aliona Velichko
In March at Coffee and Tea Russian Expo Uganda coffee and tea stand was gaining a lot of attention from the visitors not only because of it attractive look and a lot of coffee and tea samples that were promoted but also because of the taste of Ugandian coffee that the coffee specialists were offering to evaluate at their cupping sessions. Our journal Coffee and Tea International managed to take a short interview with Mr. Akankiza Samson Mpiira, a Coffee Sustainability Manager. He has been working in UCDA for last 4 years, his background being is science and technology. His work in Uganda Coffee Development Authority (UCDA) and attending many coffee courses gives him a good background to talk about coffee as a specialist. – Mr. Mpiira, coffee remains the main commodity for Uganda and a lot of efforts the Government is investing into it. What are the main trends now in the coffee industry of Uganda? – Currently there is 1,7 million small farmer households that are engaged in coffee industry, each of them composing of 4—6 people which leads us to the number 6—8 mlm people who engaged in coffee industry at this level of production. Half of them are united into cooperatives. Coffee certification / Sustainability is a new trend that we try to follow. But it is not easy as certification process is very expensive for farmers. In cooperatives it is easier to get such certificate. We are also interested in buyers who value the sustainable, fine and specialty coffee to support the farmers. This process is very important for us and needs investment of course. The government wants to support cooperatives as it makes easier many processes and also makes the process of producing coffee more organised. As government institution we also support the expansion of coffee plantations and it has grown from 345,000 hectares to additional 6,200 hectares. Currently we are exporting 4.6 mln bags annually and we want to go to 20 mln bags by 2025. To achieve this goal the government supports the farmers providing them with facilities at low cost – for example 300 mln seedlings for planting were distributed among farmers within recent 3 years, 10 mln per year. Because we are looking at expanding the land for coffee cultivation and this requires a lot of seedlings. The current trees also require rejuvenation and a lot of work is done in this direction. Increasing the volume of coffee requires new markets. – What markets are traditional for your country and what markets are you looking at now?
– Our traditional markets are UK, Europe, mainly Italy. We are very much interested to have direct contact with Russia as it is the market we are very much interested in as importers of coffee. Russian people love coffee and taste of our coffee is very close to what Russian people like and appreciate. Besides if we work directly with Russian market it will allow us to pay more to our farmers and direct contacts with farmers will be more profitable for Russian roasters. Also neighbouring countries are of our interest – Poland, Ukraine. Their markets are interesting for us. Because if our volume of coffee reaches 20 mln bags per annum, traditional markets will not be able to consume it all and we need new markets. WE have decided to participate in Coffee and Tea exhibition because we want to find new partners and also get a feedback to our coffee. We organised cupping of Uganda coffee and the feedback is very good with high marks that are usually given to specialty coffee. – What makes Uganda coffee so special? – In Uganda we produce 80 percent Robusta and we know that in Russia they love this taste. Uganda is considered to be the best place for Robusta in the world as it is the birth place of Robusta. it was discovered in our country and this natural habitat makes it more unique. We have high altitude of growth around 900—1500 meters above sea level and this contributes to it having a good balance of salt/acid ratio. Fine robustas in Uganda have berries, fruity, caramel and a long pleasant aftertaste. Uganda Robusta is a standard for fine/specialty in the world as the grading and cupping protocols were made in Uganda by Uganda Coffee Development Authority and Coffee Quality Institute of America. Here during cupping sessions Ugandan coffees scored above SCAA 83 points. So we do hope for very fruitful cooperation with Russian and other markets. 31
Denis Shumakov 2 Olga Nikandrova 3
The news that in 2018 Starbucks will close its Teavana shops (more than 350 in all, there is no other such tea chain in the US), raises before tea specialists questions as to why the project is scaled down and how Teavana’s experience can be best utilized. We will try to answer these questions from Russia, relying on the old and established consumer tea culture existing in our country and making analysis based on Teavana’s online store (in this contemplation, we are not touching the issue that Starbucks has sold its other tea brand Tazo to Unilever).
It’s reasonably safe to suggest that Teavana sells “home tea”. The basis of their tea assortment is looseleaf tea, intended for brewing in teapots. Tea bags
are next to none. There is also a lot of teaware and it is very diverse. So, it looks as if the store offers its clients to buy tea and utensils, bring them home and start brewing tea there. At the same time, home tea-drinking is the most conservative segment of consumer tea culture. If the tradition of such tea drinking exists in the country, it guarantees the demand for tea and utensils for home tea brewing. If there is no tradition of such a tea drinking, then the formation of demand for such products requires a large amount of time and resources. In the US, the large scale tradition of home tea drinking does not exist, which means that Teavana is trying to sell far and wide a non-mass market product. The chosen sales strategy (malls with high probability of spontaneous purchases) and wide marketing opportunities allowed to count on the effect of the avalanche – that is, that the first purchases of tea and the experience of preparing it at home will quickly turn tea neophytes into regular buyers and connoisseurs of tea. However, we have reasons to assume that a significant part of buyers were puzzled with the taste of the self-made tea.
First publication in World of Tea: https://worldoftea.org/teavana-closing-distant-analysis/ More than 25 years of experience in tea and tea promotion. Chairman of Advisory Board of TMC International, judge TMCI 2013-2017. PR-manager, Turquoise Tea Company (since 2004, Russia, Taiwan). Owner and author of Teatips.ru web-site (since 1999, Russia). Co-author in TeatipsBrief news project (since 2017, international). Tea and wine consultant at Pokrovka guest house (since 2009, Russia). Member of Editors board of Coffee and Tea International in Russia and Coffee and Tea International magazines (since 2014). Person of the year in Russian tea industry (2013). Author of numerous articles and videos about tea, co-founder and methodologist of a tea school, one of the most well-known tea popularizers in Russia, organizer of tea festivals, working most actively in the sphere of gastronomic tea-drinking. 3 Сreator and co-author of TeaTipsBrief. News&Fun Analitics by Teatips.ru project. 1 2
This is indirectly evidenced by the dominance of teapots and similar items of tea utensils in Teavana’s teaware bestsellers. It is possible that, being unsatisfied with the taste of self-made tea, buyers assume that they are doing something wrong and buy other tools for making tea. That is, other teapots; and, perhaps, more than once. And only after a few failed attempts, they come to the conclusion that tea is not their drink. Or that tea is too difficult for them. For a non-traditional tea market, such a situation is natural – getting pleasure from the taste of tea, especially pure tea, requires from the consumer more training or background than enjoying other mass produced drinks (coffee, soda, wine, juices). Which are not only easier to understand, but also often have a more pronounced physiological effect. And this means that Teavana is selling home tea-drinking, which almost no one needs (because there is no tradition), and very few people understand (because they mostly do not like tea). At the same time, Teavana almost completely ignores the aspects related to tea’s influence on the well-being and mood of a person in the escription of the tea they sell, and does not specify simple consumer tea-drinking formats (try to find images of set tea tables or staged tea parties on their website). That is, they’re trying to play only on the taste and aroma of tea, without even an attempt to integrate it into the gastronomic culture. Thus, Teavana should be viewed not as a pure business project, but as a project to create a new consumer home tea culture in the United States – and of fairly high level at that (judging by the prices on their tea) – based purely on the taste of tea. Moreover, the project is realized almost from scratch (without a base in the form of mass tea culture), for unprepared con-
sumers, practically without references to a healthy lifestyle and without direct borrowing from old consumer tea cultures (primarily Chinese and English). In fact, Teavana offers Americans the ability to brew and drink tea at home, because it is delicious. And Americans do not believe it. In our distant view, Teavana’s failure is very weakly related to many mistakes. Focusing on malls, which are losing customers, high prices for tea, deficient description of goods, standard treatment of an non-standard (for the US market) product – all this, of course, can be criticized in detail. But the main reason for the failure of Teavana is not in these details, but in the fact that the project has set itself a task of extremely high complexity. A task which requires a huge amount of resources (we do not even venture to suggest the needed amount) and a lot of time (perhaps, another 5—10 years). At the same time, it would be a shame to lose the groundwork put in place by Teavana in the formation of a high-level taste-oriented home tea culture in the US. Of course, there is a risk that such a culture is impossible in the US at all. Of course, even after all the efforts made by Teavana, the task of creating such a culture remains very complex and resource consuming. But… If such a culture is created and becomes widespread and strong enough, then for all of us – for tea lovers and tea professionals – a vast field will open for a wide variety of very interesting and very profitable activities. So it makes sense to be optimistic. And to thank our colleagues from Teavana for their enthusiasm. Correction: The previous version of this post stated that Teavana retained online sales, but the online store shuttered in December of 2017.
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Denis Shumakov , Olga Nikandrova
Perhaps the most interesting feature of the Korean tea tradition is that it fully exists on a tiny amount of tea, in comparison with many other tea traditions. Judge for yourself. Currently, Korea produces more than three thousand tons of tea a year. This is several times less than in Taiwan, and ten times less than, for example, in Turkey. We do not have the latest data on tea consumption in Korea, but we believe it does not exceed one hundred grams per capita a year. This is more than ten times less than in Russia and tens of times less than in England or Ireland. In fact, tea consumption and tea production in Korea are very small; also, people drink different beverages. First of all, of course, coffee and soju. As far as we know, Korea is a world leader in the number of coffee houses per capita. The best-selling alcohol brand in the world is one of the brands under which soju, a Korean traditional potato or grain distillate, diluted with water with different flavor additives, is sold. In addition, in Korea there are popular drinks, which were prepared by brewing plant material, they are promoted willingly and in large quantities. Fruits, roots, cereals, flowers, herbs – all this ingredients brewed together in pure form and in blends, then served in a variety of ways from refined traditional to modern bar-cocktail. Many fruit&berry and root teas have been entrenched in Korean culture for such a long time, now they have their own names with the word “cha” like, for example, an insam-cha, drink based on ginseng. Just a little exaggerating, we can say that the word “tea” in Korea is more often referred to a drink prepared not from the leaves of camellia sinensis, but from some other plant material.
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ith such input data, the existence of a self-sufficient, lively and meaningfully capacious tea tradition in Korea looks incredible. However, it lives, and, again, has everything that should be in a full-fledged tea tradition: unique natural conditions, its own production, specific trade and original consumer culture. In our opinion, this phenomenon has three reasons. The first, most obvious, is that Korean tea culture is one of the oldest on the Earth. And in its history, as in the history, for example, of Chinese tea, there is a legendary stage associated with the arrival in the first century of the Korean princess Heo Hwang-ok, who brought seedlings or tea seeds with herself. This coming of tea to Korea, we repeat, is considered legendary, and the real tea history of Korea is usually associated with the seventh and ninth centuries. In the seventh century, tea was first mentioned to be consumed in Korea; in the ninth century – to be cultivated and produced there. The history of Korean tea was not cloudless; its production was taxed, the tea industry fell into decay during wars, tea was outplayed by wine in the struggle for audience. As a result of these events the second reason for the successful existence of a developed tea
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tradition in Korea in isolation from mass consumption of tea was crystallized. At some point in Korea a stable tea phenomenon was formed. It could be described by a simple formula: the Buddhist monastery plus the surrounding villages. Buddhist monasteries, like in other countries, became the centers of tea consumption and distribution, and the adjacent villages provided everything with a production base. The approach, in which the production, trade and consumption of tea coexist in a very compact space, helps Korean tea culture with incredible stability and a very interesting synthesis of preserved traditions and constantly introduced innovations. From this synthesis, by the way, the specific social function of tea drinking in Korea most likely has grown; it is the third reason for the stability of the Korean tea phenomenon. Tea is a conscious and supported part of Korean culture. Tea party is a solemn tradition of Korea, but tea is not excluded from everyday consumption. It is studied and popularized, in Korea there are tea schools and associations, tea exhibitions, fairs and festivals are held. Tea is inseparable from the monastic culture of Korea. And, of course, adjacent crops are grouped around the tea – dishes, clothes, communications and so on.
Green tea from Gimhae, early May harvest (sejak).
Green tea from Boseong, early May harvest (sejak).
Green tea from Hadong, early May harvest (sejak).
Black tea from Gimhae.
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In short, in our opinion, everything is very well with the tea culture in Korea. As for the tea itself, the situation can be described in some facts. The production of tea in Korea is concentrated mainly in the south of the country (and the Korean Peninsula, respectively). Many tea regions of Korea have official status, their boundaries and production styles are more or less regulated. It is at the level of the tea regions (rather than the country as a whole); there are the most interesting elements of Korean tea infrastructure. Every part of the tea regions have their own tea museums, scientific and tourist centers, guest plantations, smart shops and other very attractive places to visit. The most famous tea regions in Korea are Boseong, Hadong, Jeju and Gimhae. Each of them has its own formal characteristics and its own, so to speak, marketing highlights that are not common for all different teas, but which are interesting to talk about. So, for example, the Boseong tea is traditionally described by salty sea notes in taste. They are usually explained by the sea influence, but it is not unique to Boseong, there are many seaside plantations in Korea. But the prevalence of Japanese tea varieties and their
descendants (the commercial tea industry in this region was launched by the Japanese) may well be the reason for the emergence of specific Japanese sea notes in the taste of Boseong teas. In addition, the tea industry of Boseong is considered more modern and accurate, but these characteristics work only in comparison with Hadong. The fact is that Hadong is Korea’s oldest tea region (if we accept the version according to which tea has been grown in Korea since the ninth century), and the tea industry there is positioned as conventionally more wild and archaic. You can find thickets of feral tea in Hadong, very old tea trees, a bit messy tea bushes, growing among the bamboo. Naturally, in Hadong the most wide-spread are small-leaf Chinese tea tree varieties and their descendants. Jeju is a very beautiful volcanic island located to the south from the Korean Peninsula, with tea plantations in the valleys, which are used not only for direct purposes, but also as part of the touristic infrastructure. The characteristics of the tea from Jeju usually emphasize volcanism, which, of course, affects the characteristics of soils. And, of course, it is reported that
Green tea from Hadong, April harvest (ujeon).
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Green tea from Hadong, early May harvest (sejak).
. Green tea from Hadong, late May harvest (jungjak). COFFEE&TEA INTERNATIONAL 2/2018
the island of Jeju is one of the best places in the world for growing tea. The biggest part of Jeju plantations run by large companies, so the approach of growing, collecting and producing tea are more industrial than in other regions of Korea, which, however, does not affect the tea quality. As for Gimhae, it is where Jang-gun is made – tea, produced from the Assam tea bushes, with larger leaves and more tannic substances than in other regions of Korea. This Assam variety, like a snap from a snuffbox, again releases into the story of Korean tea the princess Heo Hwang-ok, whose tomb is located in Gimhae and who, according to legend, brought tea to Korea in the first century AD (one of the versions from India). We certainly looked at the map and had absolutely no idea how it could be possible to bring tea seeds or seedlings from India to Korea in the first century. Nevertheless, the tea producers from Gimhae exploit the legend about the Indian origin of their tea very active. Regardless of the production region, there are two kinds of tea in Korea – green and all the rest. Green Korean tea is made approximately like this: freshly picked tea leaves are heated in small portions with in deep pans, stirred all the time; after a short warm-up the leaves are put on a table covered with a cloth, where they are hand-rolled with preliminary sorting. When the leaves cool down, they are put back into the pan, fried again, stirred again, put back on the table, rolled and sorted again. After several cycles (for example, six), the final frying is made so as after the leaves cool down they would be dry and turn into ready-made tea. In words, it is very simple. In fact, too, if you approach the issue purely technically – no special skills of stirring and twisting are required. But there are, as always, some nuances. First, almost all good Korean green tea is produced by hand. And this means that the intensity of its production is not very high, and the tea itself, considering the labor cost, is expensive. Second, manual procedures made with tea are technically not so difficult, but they need competent management: selection of the temperature for frying, choice of the final drying time and other important details require at least experience. We believe that there can be other nuances, but even the two mentioned are enough not to see anything surprising in the class and quality of Korean green tea. Korean green tea is classified according to the harvesting time and the quality of the leaf. The most valuable, of course, is the first spring harvest, which, as a rule, occurs in April or May. Inside this first harvest, another classification is possible: tea is divided into the first-first (ujeon, 우전, relatively speaking, April), the second-first (sejak, 세작, early May), the third-first (jungjak, 중작, late May) and the fourth-first (daejak, 대작), June already) pluck. In April and early May only the youngest leaves are collected, the next two plucks are not so scrupulous. And this is all, let us repeat, the variations of the first, spring harvest. On some plantations, only the leaves from the very first harvest are used for the tea production – all the rest of the time, bushes undergo purely technical pruning, and leaves collected from them go to the production of a variety of tea products (some words about it will be a little bit later). On not-that-foppish plantations, besides April-May, tea can be collected three more times: in June, August and September-October. Different harvestings bring raw materials of different quality. And raw materials of different quality is a guarantee of consumer diversity. On the domestic Korean tea market there are also ceremonious expensive tea, powdered tea, tea bags, flavored teas, teas
with different additives (for example, rice) and tea coins (simple green tea pressed into small disks with a hole in the middle). In Korea there are a lot of non-obvious products, which were made from tea or using tea. Tea wines and liqueurs, tea oils, tea sweets and tea ice cream, a variety of tea cosmetics and hygiene products. In Korea you can find whole stores that sell different entertaining tea pieces. In all this consumer diversity there are, of course, the most vivid themes. In our opinion, these are green teas of the first harvest, interesting not only for their objective quality, but also for bright “terroirity” (we are allowed the neologism), like Ddok-cha or Tteok-cha (the mentioned tea coins with holes that are pressed from simple green tea, stringed on ropes and infused for a very long time when making tea). As mentioned above, not only green tea is made in Korea. In fact, you can find there the entire tea spectrum; just do not be surprised that some of its colors Koreans will interpret in their own way. For example, we met variants when the term “yellow tea” was used for heavily fermented tea (actually black), in which fermentation and final drying were not carried out separately, but in the framework of a single technological procedure. This beverage did not have anything in common with traditional Chinese yellow tea. But we also came across Korean yellow tea in a normal yellow sense. So any non-green Korean tea can become a source of unexpected discoveries. Everything is more or less stable with black tea; it is uniquely identified as black, called “fermented tea” and has a very good flavor. From the story of Korean tea, in theory, we must proceed to stories about Korean tea parties – and, of course, about the Korean tea ceremony. But an appropriate story about all these things requires deeper knowledge about the culture than what we have, and obviously more than the volume of one magazine article. Therefore, we are limiting ourselves to only two remarks. The Korean tea ceremony has two technical markers that can be taken as the basis for Korean tea stylizations and which are as characteristic of traditional Korean tea drinking as a samovar and saucer for the traditional Russian tea party. One of them is the cooling of boiling water before brewing tea, for which a special bowl is used and which can be quite strong in summer (up to 60 degrees Celsius, for example) and insignificant in winter. And the other is the gradual pouring of tea over several cups. An intermediate vessel, where tea is poured from the teapot before being poured into tea cups (which is common for the Chinese tea ceremony), is rarely used in Korea; so, for all guests to get uniform infusion, tea is poured by little in every cup in several rounds. The second remark is dedicated to the organization of large ceremonial tea parties. Imagine that you spent the night in a Buddhist monastery, and in the afternoon, you were taken to the mountains, into a spacious and completely Korean pavilion with dragons and snakes and said that now there would be a tea party. What kind of it can you expect in this entourage? Surely, very traditional, Korean and ceremonial. But Koreans, apparently, believe – and their belief is quite right – that the goal of a ceremonial tea party is to expand the tea horizon. Therefore, they put up a long table, where several tea parties are served in different styles: Simple Korean with coin-shaped ddok-cha, ceremonial Korean, Korean floral, European in English style with flavored French black tea and so on. And outside, not far from the pavilion, at this time it is possible to drink powder tea, prepared according to all powder-tea rules. Tea eclecticism like this is very captivating.
37
Monitor
Sharyn Jonston, Australia, Australian Tea Masters Founder, TMCI Head Judge
HoReCa
Tea is the No.1 beverage in the world after water and can be the perfect accompaniment to food and snacks. It helps lift the standards of your tea service and can give the diner higher satisfaction with their meal. There is a tea which can complement every dish and it can be found in one of the six tea types Tea can offer a higher profit margin but before you begin pairing tea and food you must first understand tea! All tea comes from the same plant: Camellia Sinensis. If it does not come from Camellia Sinensis, then it is not tea! There are six main types of processed tea: ◆ White ◆ Green ◆ Yellow ◆ Oolong ◆ Black ◆ Pu-erh or dark tea COFFEE&TEA INTERNATIONAL 2/2018
There are also five principles when brewing tea and these must be taken in to account: ◆ Water Quality ◆ Water Temperature ◆ Ratio of Leaves to Water ◆ Steeping Time ◆ Brewing Vessel
Just like wine, different teas can delicately pair, enhance or complement different foods and flavours. Recommending different teas to finish off a meal will show care, expertise and help increase sales. When selecting teas for tea and food pairing it is important to use a guide as below: WHITE TEA White tea has a delicate flavour and silky texture, so it should be paired with lightly flavoured foods that won’t overwhelm the tea such as light fish, salads, fruits and light cream cheese. GREEN TEA In the green tea category there is such a wide variety of green teas. Chinese green teas are known for their nutty, vegetal, floral and or smoky characteristics and there is such a great variety of flavours. Green tea is also great at removing that oily feeling that some foods leave. Poultry, Stir-fry, Rice dishes, Brie and salmon pairs well with green tea. Japanese and Korean green teas are famous for their umami, vegetal and marine notes and pair well with Asian dishes, Seafood, Sushi, Chocolate, Gouda and Manchego OOLONG Oolong is a diverse and complex category and ranges from green, vegetal, nutty, sweet notes in the lower oxidized end of the category to chocolate, nutty notes from the darker oxidized category. The lighter oolongs pair well fruit desserts, grilled
poultry, sweeter seafood, like lobster, scallops and crab and light salted snacks such as crackers and nuts. The darker oolongs pair well with roasted vegetables, oilier fish, light grilled meats, eggs, sweets, pastries, pancakes and chocolate desserts. BLACK TEA Black tea is also a very diverse category and can be anything from a delicate honey like Keemun or a smoky Lapsang Souchong from China, a Darjeeling from India, a high altitude black tea from Nepal and an earthy, robust black tea from Africa or Yunnan or a fruity black tea from Sri Lanka, Fruit black teas tend to work well with sweet deserts, smoky black teas go well with barbecued or heavily roasted meats and dark bittersweet chocolate. The food needs to be more intense in flavor. Earthy black teas pair well with roasted game meats, vegetable dishes served with meat gravy, and barbecue meats. PUERH OR DARK TEAS There are two types of Pu-erh, Sheng and Shou.The Sheng puerh tends to have greener, fruity notes while the shou puerh has darker, earthy notes. Pu-erh’s have a very distinctive flavour due to their fermentation process and they are very good at neutralizing oily notes in food. They are also good digestive teas and therefore very good served at the end of the meal. There are thousands of different teas in the world and the main thing is to experiment, keep tasting notes and record your comments so that you can develop your own tea menus. 39
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