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Vol. 3, Issue 5
PLANNING YOUR BACKYARD PARADISE?
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2 Come Home / Volume 3, Issue 5
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PROUDLY SERVING OUR CUSTOMERS AT THE FOLLOWING LOCATIONS BERRYVILLE SQUARE 305-307 Public Square Berryville, AR 72616 (870) 423-6601
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MARSHALL HARRISON SOUTH DRIVE THRU HOLIDAY ISLAND proudly serving our customers at the 620 Highway 65 200 E. Rush Ave 5 Forest Park Avenue following locations Marshall, AR 72650 Harrison, AR 72601 Holiday Island, AR 72631 Berryville Square Green Forest Harrison South (870) 448-2222 (870) 743-6601 (479) 253-9046
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Berryville, AR 72616 HARRISON NORTH (870) 1311 Highway 62-65 NE423-6601 Harrison, AR 72601 Highway 62 West 1004 W Trimble Street (870) 743-6601 Berryville, AR 72616 (870) 423-6601
604 West Main Street
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Volume 3, Issue 5 / Come Home Marshall 620 Highway 65
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Farmhouse Finds
at the
Ole Rockhouse Vintage S tyle
Antiques Farmhouse Fabrics & Notions Copyright Fiell Archive
Wednesday - Friday 416 S. Pine St. 870-847-0430 AR 416 S. Pine St., Harrison, AR •Harrison, 870-847-0430 Summer Hours: Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, 10a.m. to 5p.m.
2 Come Home / Volume 3, Issue 5
VOLUME 3, ISSUE 5
PUBLISHER & EDITOR
Heather Hinrichs ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Letters
Monique Wilson COPY EDITOR
Donna Kay Bell GRAPHIC DESIGN
Sarah Knight/Wheelhouse Design CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Gibson Wilson Beverly Cothran Valerie Haight Wm. Spencer Hinrichs Nate Jordon CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Monique Wilson Jeannie Mathis Heather Hinrichs Nate Jordon
PUBLISHED BY
Black Bear Publishing LLC All content is protected by U.S. copyright law and may not be reproduced without permission. MAILING ADDRESS
Black Bear Publishing 128 W. Stephenson Street Harrison, AR 72601
Sometimes the best plans don’t
go as planned. And sometimes, for whatever reason, things just seem to fall apart. I spend a lot of time planning every issue for Come Home. I usually know months in advance what articles are being submitted and who the photographers will be. I try to have some connection or theme between the stories I select. This issue was one of those times where my plans just seemed to fall apart. Stories fell through at the last minute, photographers were on vacation, and my plans were just not working out. This issue was one of those times where I called on a few professionals and said I need a story on this subject, and oh, by the way, I need it in three days. Like always, they came through but I still worried this issue did not have any connection between the articles, but then it hit me. This issue is Herman Hardy Fuller. This issue is my Papa. This issue is full everything he loved. Papa loved his family more than the air he breathed. He sold used tractors, and loved to paint them up shiny. He loved to shoot guns, although I never knew him to hunt. He ate black walnut ice cream, and I often wondered if this was his favorite because the rest of us hated it and it was all that was left in the freezer. I rode the ferry across Norfork Lake many, many times hauling equipment with him and every trip we always stopped at a cafe along the way and no matter what was on the menu we ordered the plate lunch. He loved peaches and couldn’t resist buying them from anyone selling them. I remember sitting under a shade tree while he peeled us peaches with his pocket knife. He loved Johnny Cash, new trucks, and country music. So if Johnny Cash were to have written the perfect country song about Herman Hardy Fuller, it would no doubt mention, guns and plate lunches, ice cream and tractors, ferry rides in new trucks and peaches. Oh, and how much he loved his family. Thanks Papa for teaching me “Can’t Never Could” and for showing me when things fall apart, you just pick it all up and figure it out.
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contact Heather at: comehomemagazine@hotmail.com 870.688.6561
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Pictured left to right: Chris McNew, Sonja Snell, John Weir, Cheryl Smith, Laura Karr, Randy Raney
Proudly Serving Investors In Our Community ounded in 2008, Benjamin F. Edwards & Co. is a national wealth management firm that is committed to client-first service and providing the investment advice you deserve. Trust. Integrity. Mutual Respect. These are the principles that keep us focused on what matters—our clients and their financial well-being.
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2016-1118 Exp. 6/30/2018 Member SIPC
Contents VOLUM E 3 // I SS UE 5
6 I’m a Leadslinger COME HOME KIDS
Written by GIBSON WILSON
19 Country Rooster
Written by WM. SPENCER HINRICHS Photographed by HEATHER HINRICHS
Photographed by MONIQUE WILSON
Peel Ferry Appeal: 10 The A One of a Kind Ride in Arkansas
Muddy Arkansas Roots of 23 The Johnny Cash Written and Photographed by NATE JORDON
Written by BEVERLY COTHRAN Photography submitted JEANNIE MATHIS
Pattie’s John Deere 14 Mr. Ice Cream
29 Peaches
COME HOME KITCHEN
Written by VALERIE HAIGHT
Prepared by HEATHER HINRICHS
Photographed by HEATHER HINRICHS
Photographed by HEATHER HINRICHS
Volume 3, Issue 5 / Come Home
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6 Come Home / Volume 3, Issue 5
I AM A
Leadslinger How many of you know what trap shooting is? Trap shooting is shooting a shotgun at a round clay target that is hurled from a machine. Some may recognize it by another name, skeet shooting. This sport is a gentleman’s game that consists of a team of five shooters that stand sixteen yards behind the trap house, each shooter stands on a pad called a station. There is a total of five stations that are in a line that is parallel to the back of the trap house. Each shooter will shoot one shell at a time at one clay pigeon propelled out of the trap house at a speed of about 45 miles per hour. After the captain shoots one shell, then the shooter on station two will shoot at his target. This process with go all the way down to station five. After shooter five has shot, the captain shoots his second shot. This cycle continues until every shooter has shoot five shells at their starting station. At that point, every shooter will rotate to the station to their right except for the shooter on station five, he/she will circle around to station one. The game is played until every shooter has shot five shells at every station for a total of twenty-five shots. All together the whole team, or squad as it is referred to in competition, shoots a total of one hundred and twenty-five shots. The team that hits the most targets in the tournament wins. In the event of a tied score the two best teams will go into a shoot-off. This is where both teams shoot until one misses and the team that misses first will be awarded second place.
Trap shooting is a sport that can stay with you from the time you can pick up a shotgun to the time you can’t pick anything up. I was introduced to the sport in the fall of 2011 and I have been hooked ever since I busted my first clay. Now that you know how the game is played and know how long I have participated in the sport, I’ll tell you my story. I started with the Harrison Leadslingers in the fall semester of my seventh-grade school year. I had always been intrigued by the idea of being on a trap squad, so when I heard that the school had a team, I was the first one in line to sign up. The program that it is ran under is Arkansas Youth Shooting Sports Program (AYSSP). Future Farmers of America (FFA) also has a trap competition but the agriculture department of my school district does not offer that opportunity. Since I joined in the seventh-grade I was still considered to be in the junior division which includes sixth, seventh, and eighth-grade. The senior high division is ninthgrade through twelfth-grade. I have consistently shot with the same two squad members since my first-year shooting until now. The two members of the team are Clayton Villines and Tyler Wolfe. We have won multiple awards together as well as individually. In the 2014 at the Bergman Trap Invitational Clayton, Mason Martin (another Harrison shooter), and I all received the top three high point trophies awarded at the
WRITTEN BY WRITTEN BY Gibson Wilson AND PHOTGRAPHED BY Monique Wilson
Volume 3, Issue 5 / Come Home
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tournament. As first year shooters at the invitational I shot first overall highpoint or the highest score in the whole tournament shooting a twenty-three out of twenty-five. Clayton and Mason followed with a twenty-two and a twenty-one respectfully. The achievements did not stop there. Clayton, Tyler, and I, just over a year later along with two other Harrison shooters, placed second in our region in 2015 North Regional held in Jacksonville, AR. After placing second in the tournament we were able to advance to the state competition held in Jacksonville less than two weeks from the date of the regional tournament. We unfortunately were beat out in the first round of the tournament. Still over two years later we have not become discouraged and quit. Clayton, Tyler, and I are avid in the sport. Clayton and I are hoping to pursuit the sport on the collegiate level after our last high school trap season next spring. I would recommend trap shooting to most any kid with an interest in shooting. The first thing you will need is a shotgun, either a 12 gauge or a 20 gauge. You need to have a basic understanding of how the gun works and how to be safe with it. You will have to go through the complete Arkansas Game and Fish Com-
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neighborsmill.com 1012 Highway 65 N. I Harrison, AR 72601 I 870-741-6455
mission’s Hunter Safety course and become certified. Safety is a huge deal all the time but especially important when shooting with a group. You will need eye and ear protection too. Shooting glasses and ear plugs take care of both of these things. There will be practices that you have to attend to become eligible to shoot in state competitions. To find a trap shooting group at your school, talk to someone in the main office, they most usually will have the information. If you decide this sport is for you, Happy (and safe) Shooting! CH
OUR DOCTORS Sabre Ayers Wright, O.D. Kenneth Hubbard, Jr., O.D. William D. Hill, M.D.
HARRISON OFFICE 519 North Willow Street 870-741-2787
MARSHALL OFFICE 300 South Glade Street 870-448-2084
W W W. HUB B A RDEY EC L IN IC . COM
Dr. Hubbard, Jr., O.D.
Dr. Wright, O.D.
Volume 3, Issue 5 / Come Home
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NS
KA
OF
A PPEA L
AS
FERRY
NE AO
T H E PEEL
AR AK N IND RIDE I
On the scenic highways of Arkansas there is one location where a bridge is not a structure connecting two expanses of land. The Peel Ferry is a barge that floats travelers across the crystalline waters of the Bull Shoals Lake from the Peel port to the opposite shore at Buck Creek Park where highway 125 continues its wind into Missouri. The ferry traces the route of highway 125 that was engulfed by the Bull Shoals Lake when the dam of the White River was constructed in the late 1940’s. The ferry is tucked in a wooded
alcove on the northern tip of the lake’s fingers where the land appears to stretch to (but can’t quite) grasp Missouri from Arkansas. It is approximately thirty miles north of Yellville, or as the crow flies, a mile or so northwest of the Highway 125 Marina. This Natural State’s one of a kind shuttle is a free service through the Arkansas State Highway and Transportation Department, but that has not always been the case. In years previous to 1968
the ferry was maintained by Marion County and passengers charged a small fee for crossing. In 1969 the county released the ferry to the ASHTD. Owned and operated by the state agency, the ferry is operated by a three person crew under the supervision of manager Randall Williams. In addition to his 18 years of experience at the ferry, Williams qualified for the position of supervisor through years of training amd certification with the Coast Guard.
WRITTEN BY WRITTEN BY Beverly Cothran AND PHOTGRAPHED BY Jeannie Mathis Volume 3, Issue 5 / Come Home
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Each morning as the rising sun casts its golden glow on the shimmering waters of the Bull Shoals Lake, the tiny tug Peel 1 is pumped full of fuel and the engine prepped for a day’s work at the Peel Ferry. Throughout the day the tug putters a to and fro path sixteen to eighteen times, hauling it’s cargo of cars, trucks, motorcycles, and the occasional eighteen-wheeler, school bus, bicycle or pedestrian. The transport is open seven days a week, 365 days a year. The ferry’s schedule is just basically sunup to sundown. At the crack of dawn, the first ferry shuttles passengers from the Peel side north to the Buck Creek port. Crewmembers work long days, (generally fourteen and onehalf hours). To accommodate the intense schedules, Williams supervises two crews with alternating work dates. Fifty years ago ferries were numerous across the state, but as populations expanded and travel increased bridges were constructed and transports like the Toadsuck, or the Greers Ferry barge were transferred to new waters or retired. Traffic through the Peel area has never reached the level to justify construction of a bridge. “It is a pretty good tourist attraction,” Williams stated. For tourists, it’s a slow scenic ride to somewhere and for many locals the transport is a necessity for everyday life. Williams said to bypass the ferry would be an hour and one-half trip. The ferry runs on a fairly tight schedule, pretty much sunup to sundown following the seasonal clock. From port to port it
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is about a 10 to 15 minute trip. Locals are aware of the schedule and tourists often pass the in-between time strolling along the banks or skipping rocks across the glassy waters. My dad was known to drag his fishing pole and tackle box down the bank and cast a line or two. Although fishing is restricted within certain proximity of the ferry, it is just a short trot to a point that is fair game. On a mild summer’s afternoon in late June, my daughter, two grandsons and I drove out for a short cruise on the shuttle across the lake. The drive out on highway 125 is an enchanting one enhanced by acres upon acres of natural forestation intertwined with glimpses of the blue lake popping out from the backdrop of green. My recollection of rides on the ferry caused me a few pre-ride jitters about easing my 4x4 pick-up into a tight space on the barge, but I was pleasantly surprised to see a new barge with three lanes and space to accommodate trucks and trailers of every size and proportion. With the sun warming our faces, the wind to our back, and the water beneath our feet we set sail on our brief voyage across the lake. The humming of the tug, the rushing of the water as it rumbled beneath the metal, and the clapping of the waves as they brushed against the sides of the barge were the gentle reminders that the ferry was plotting along. The barge for our crossing was christened two and one half years ago as the Christmas Barge. Williams said, “The new barge
doubled our capacity. We had a six car barge for years. Now we have a twelve car barge.” The Christmas barge was manufactured in Panama Florida and transported in pieces to Bull Shoals where it was assembled on the shore. Peel’s older barge, Lady Marion, is utilized as a backup, but the Toadsuck barge has been decommissioned and sets docile near a bank adjacent to the ferry port awaiting transport back to its hometown of Toadsuck, Arkansas where Williams says the city plans to mount it as a memento near the original port site. As ferry passengers, we were definitely in the category of tourist. We rode across once, then re-boarded and rode back on the next departure. On our first trip across the lake, we followed a small line of traffic and were the fourth or fifth on the platform to park. We were surprised to spy several happy young passengers traveling in the cab of Tug 1. On the return trip, our little assembly was afforded the privilege of passage in the perch of the tug. From inside the cab we observed the pilot navigating the vessel with a joystick control. The tug was rolled out to the side and then swung in beside the barge to power it across the lake. Starring downward, we could see the agitated water churning beneath our feet. To our flanks, we observed a boat jet across the lake. The conductors of our tour were David King and Neal Wood. Both were accommodating hosts who pleasantly answered our questions and indulged us with details of daily routines. Wood, like Williams, has served as staff on the ferry for eighteen years. He said that he enjoys, “talking to and meeting people from all places.” Wood shared that their most interesting stories and experiences the crew had running the ferry came from the people they met and observed during operations. Williams shared one unusual story about a night when four of the life preservers from two ferries disappeared. The next day the crew found a raft constructed with the four objects and some planks of wood that were used as transport for a crew’s passage across the lake. Though the lake was calm and the scene serene on the date of our little cruise, the weather occasionally presents obstacles to the ferry crew. “You can make it pretty good on a cold day, but not
a hot day.” Williams relayed. “The most challenging circumstance for the operators is heavy fog.” Williams specified that though the crew can tap into GPS and other resources to navigate across the lake, they cannot detect the boaters. Lake levels on the day of our cruise on June 26th were at flood stage. Williams assured us that flooding is not an issue for the ferry operations. The squad adjusts the platform of the port and shuttles their cargo a few extra feet. Williams added that the ferry is required to have lifejackets on board for each passenger and that as a general rule they have always had an abundant supply. However, once a bus load of students boarded the ferry and the crew had to snare jackets from the spare ferry to cover the increase in passengers. With the rolling blue waves of Bull Shoals beneath your feet and the clear mountain air filling your lungs, the Peel Ferry offers a refreshing breather to travelers. Once the ferry is secured, travelers can stretch their legs and soak in the sun as they leisurely drift across the calm waters tucked between the two land masses. “Average traffic for summer months is between 120 to 130 vehicles per day,” Williams shared. Daily traffic in mild weather generally includes motorcycles. “It’s not uncommon to see the three lanes of traffic consumed by cyclists.” The ferry is the highlight of a popular backroads biker route that loops though scenic destinations in Arkansas and Missouri. For those who have never traveled by ferry, it feels a little like the earth is moving under your feet, but with top speeds of 5 to 6 mph the ride is comparable to a casual cruise or gentle glide on a sailboat. Most passengers are completely at ease with stepping out of their vehicles and relishing the scenery. Across the silvery surface on the Bull Shoals Lake, the Peel Ferry tug putt’s its last load at twilight. On summer evenings that final departure from Buck Creek is 8:40 p.m. Sometimes the ferry carries it’s passengers to the places they are going and sometimes the passengers are just cruising on the ferry because it is a novelty. In both cases, the Peel Ferry has a unique appeal that cannot be found anywhere else on the highways of the Natural State. CH
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MR . PAT T I E’S
JOHN D EERE ICE CREAM
Harrison resident, Joe Pattie, has been churning out gallons of homemade ice cream for the local crowds with his 1952 Model M John Deere tractor WRITTEN BY WRITTEN BY Valerie Haight AND PHOTGRAPHED BY Heather Hinrichs
Volume 3, Issue 5 / Come Home
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Homemade ice cream. It stills the heart with black and white memories of summer smiles, happy tongues and better times. The making of this vintage, creamy treat is truly a rarity. So when I heard about a man who churns the creamy confection with his tractor, I was all in. I tracked him down at the Fourth of July Picnic in Lead Hill, Arkansas and found him enjoying the shade of a walnut tree and the company of friends. They talked over the thrum of the tractor engine while waiting on his current batch of ice cream to thicken. Joe Pattie, a Harrison resident for 71 years, churns out five gallons of vanilla ice cream using the power take off shaft of his 1952 Model M John Deere tractor, two pulley systems and years worth of experimental ingenuity. He started this process when his niece asked him to make ice cream for her wedding in Mt. Magazine, Arkansas. But to make ice cream for over 100 people, he knew he’d need a bigger output. He used resources available to him-his tractor collection-to produce the homemade ice cream in bulk. Being an avid tractor collector simplified the biggest piece of the ice cream making puzzle; the motor. He chose his smaller ‘52 Model M for its slower RPM rate and used the internet to research current RPMs versus needed RPMs. He then fastened the wooden keg harness that hinges for easy ice dumps, to a wooden mount at the rear of the tractor and ordered any parts he didn’t make himself. The recipe itself requires 100 pounds of ice, 5-6 pounds of salt, a gallon of sugar/cream mix, and about 45 minutes per 5 gallons of ice cream. Mr. Pattie usually churns out 15 gallons of homemade ice cream per event. He suggested the secret to his success is in the throttle and showed me how to listen for that magic 55 RPM number. We walked around the oversized, thick-treaded wheels of the tractor and he wrapped his hand around the throttle knob and pulled. The engine ramped. “Hear that?”, he asked. I nodded. He pushed it and the engine slowed. “Hear that?”
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I nodded again. “That’s how you tell when the ice cream is gonna be good.” He winked and even though the secret to his ice cream was still a secret, I felt like I’d been let in on some of the magic. But I had to know more. My eyes traced the route of the John Deere engine power from the axle, which created the start of the belt reduction system, all the way to the ice cream paddle. The spinning axle turned the first small pulley where the belt spun fast. It traveled under a metal housing to the second larger pulley where the belt spun slower. The power ran over to a heavy bar with a hexagonal locking mechanism built into the top that closed tightly on the freezer top nested inside the keg of ice. Mr. Pattie also created a hand-made timer. A long lever attached to the wooden decking releases the belt resistance on the second larger pulley and if the pulley comes to a stop almost immediately, it means the cream is thick enough to serve. This cuts out the need to lift the lid and keeps the mixture at its coldest. Once the lid was locked, the engine power turned the paddle. The paddle churned the cream and the cream became happiness. The result was pure, white, sweet, creamy perfection and the locals knew what to expect. For the last seven years, Mr. Pattie has made ice cream here and time after time, they returned for more. Drizzled in blackberry juice, ripe peaches, chocolate syrup, over the top of warm cobbler, or simply in a bowl with a spoon, it was delicious, every bite. This vintage summertime phenomena restored my faith in the keeping of old fashioned processes. Before we had a button to push or an app for that, we used our backs, our minds and our tractors to get the work done. Knowing the ice cream was made by the mind and hands of human ingenuity, tested and re-tested til the process was perfected then passed down to Mr. Pattie’s sons and grandsons, made it all the more sweeter. CH
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18 Come Home / Volume 3, Issue 5
ROBERT R. HUBBARD, DDS
Life is good in Green Forest and lunch is great at the
Country Rooster
WRITTEN BY Wm. Spencer Hinrichs AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY Heather Hinrichs
Volume 3, Issue 5 / Come Home
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Even though I had eaten at the Country Rooster in Green Forest many times it wasn’t until recently I had the pleasure of meeting the owner, Willa Kerby. Ms. Willa found time in her busy schedule to sit down with me over a sugar cookie the size of my head and share her passion about her cafe and her community. Ms. Willa has that certain kind of genuine personality that just immediately puts you at ease. She has warm smile and a great laugh. She makes you just want to sit and visit as long as life will let you. I believe her spirit is the motivation behind the relaxed atmosphere of The Country Rooster. The Country Rooster was envisioned to be a place where people could get together and share a table. Originally bought as a flea market, Willa always toyed with the idea of having lunch counter. “You have to evolve as a business owner,” she said, “and everybody has a lunch hour”. So in June of 2004 they cleared out a corner and that was
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the first spot for the cafe. After a six months of full tables and people standing waiting for their sandwiches, Ms. Willa knew it was time to expand. She removed a row of the flea market items to make way for more tables and eventually row after row went until the cafe, where it is now, took up half of the store. My brother came with me to the interview and he will be starting his own food business soon, so we asked for some advice. “If you work hard enough, you will find the happy medium that makes it all worth it.” Ms. Willa has used this philosophy to be able to keep open the original flea market and cafe. When Willa was around 7 or 8, her mother signed her and her sisters up for a class on how to cook at a local 4H type of club. While she did learn a lot from the class, like how to bake cakes, her mother was her main inspiration in the kitchen. Ms. Willa still makes several dishes “just like momma used to make,” including Molasses Cookies using real bacon fat and bits and pieces of crumbled bacon. When I asked how those tasted she just smiled and gave me the recipe to go home and make some for myself. Most people keep cherished family recipes under lock and key, but not Ms. Willa. The simple act of sharing speaks volumes to the person she is. Ms. Willa wants to make everyone she meets lives just a little better. I haven’t had the chance to make the Molasses Cookies yet, but from just looking at the recipe, I can tell I’m in for a treat. The Country Rooster has desserts so big that you can share, but so good that you won’t want to. She has a
large variety of desserts to choose from including: gooey butter bars, lemon bars, pecan bars, caramel turtle nut bars and brownies. Also very popular are her coconut and chocolate pies. And did I mention her cakes? They day I visited she had just pulled a carrot cake from the oven and it smelled wonderful and already had strawberry and German chocolate in the display case. There is no way I could like them all, let alone try to pick a favorite. The Country Rooster also offers a daily Plate Lunch Special. If you are not familiar with this concept, a plate lunch special is usually a hearty southern style meal – full of meat and potatoes and another side. They are made fresh every day so when they are all sold out, there isn’t anymore. The meals are meant to keep you full so you can go back and work until dinner time. With daily specials rotating every week Ms. Willa offers quite a variety of lunches for her customers. In the beginning it was a learning experience for Ms. Willa deciding which dishes to offer. When the cafe first opened up, she only served sandwiches. Eventually Ms. Willa decided to do plate lunches every day on top of the sandwich menu. She wanted to cook foods that made people feel at home. The northern foods she made at first didn’t really go over very well with people. Ms. Willa even tried sushi as a plate lunch one day. “People just looked at it kinda funny.” Ms. Willa said, “I think at that time they were just not used to that around here yet.” All of the plate lunches she cooks now are big hits
but a few of her recipes have become extremely popular. One surprise hit that everyone seems to love is the lasagna. My personal favorite is the corned beef, potatoes, carrots and cabbage. Offering a different menu everyday has its ups and down. “You never really know what’s going to sell out or what people might be hungry for,” Ms. Willa told me when I asked her about the popularity of the dishes. Changing up her menu and trying new things every now and then has not stopped The Country Rooster from attracting its own set of regulars. She has business people, famers, construction workers, teachers and little old ladies sitting at the same tables sharing not only a meal together but sharing stories as well. Her regulars are like family. Over the last 13 years she has come to know them well. They come to sit, eat lunch, and enjoy each other’s company. People come from all over to eat lunch with Ms. Willa and her girls behind the counter who help in the kitchen and make sure things run smooth out front. If you get the chance head over to The Country Rooster, Stop in for lunch or to grab some dessert. Sit down at table with some strangers who will soon be friends and let life slow down just a little and you too will see that life really is good in Green Forest. Say hello to Ms. Willa for me while you’re there. The Country Rooster Cafe and Antiques is located on the square in downtown Green Forest. You can shop the antique booths from 9 to 4 and the cafe serves lunch from 11 to 3. Check them out on Facebook to see their daily/weekly specials. CH
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311 S Highway 62 65 Byp Harrison, Arkansas Volume 3, Issue 5 / Come Home
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22 Come Home / Volume 3, Issue 5
THE
MUD DY ARKANSAS ROOTS OF JOH N N Y C ASH
WRITTEN AND PHOTGRAPHED BY Nate Jordon
Volume 3, Issue 5 / Come Home
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“At a very early age . . . I was very aware that I was a part of nature – that I sprang from the soil.” — Johnny Cash A lot of things grow in the black muddy soil of northeastern Arkansas – perhaps the most famous being cotton, hard work, and one Johnny Cash. The little town of Dyess, Arkansas, where Johnny grew up, lies in the rural outskirts of a flatland nowhere and if you don’t pay attention to where you’re going you’ll get lost in a blink. But if you get there and find the town square, you’ll discover a lot more than the story of Johnny Cash’s boyhood, you’ll unearth a unique chapter of American history. Johnny often reminisced about his muddy Arkansas roots in Dyess Colony. Whether in conversation, interviews, or songs, Johnny had fond memories of his family circle and the struggles they faced making a living on their small farm during and after the Great Depression. It’s an intriguing story and one that has been less well known until Arkansas State University stepped in to preserve it. In 2009, Arkansas legislature directed Arkansas State University to develop the town as a heritage site for preservation and tourism, with a focus on its agricultural heritage and native son Johnny Cash. In 2010, Gene Williams and the city of Dyess donated the administration building and the theatre, both on the town square, to ASU. The two buildings have been beautifully restored and exhibit artifacts and multimedia presentations related to Dyess Colony, lifestyles of typical colonists, the Cash family, and the impact life in Dyess had on Johnny Cash and his music. The visitors center, located next to the theatre and on the former site of the pop shop, includes an orientation video, exhibits, and a gift shop. In 2011, ASU acquired the old Cash family home and restored it through proceeds from the annual John-
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ny Cash Music Festival. ASU endeavors to restore other areas of Dyess Colony by restoring barns and outbuildings, placing more historic markers at area locations, creating walking and biking trails from the town square to the Cash home, and other projects. From the detailed history lesson I received from staffers Tom and Amy the day I visited, the story of Dyess County is simply intriguing. Dyess Colony was created in 1934 as part of President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s New Deal to aid in the nation’s economic recovery from the Great Depression. Established as one of the nation’s earliest and largest federal agricultural resettlement communities under the Works Progress Administration and the Federal Emergency Relief Administration, it provided a fresh start for nearly 500 out-of-work Arkansas farm families. The colony was named for Mississippi County native and Arkansas’s first WPA administrator, William Reynolds Dyess. In 1930 he bought a farm near Osceola and was later named to the Mississippi County Election Commission. Dyess promoted his plan for a colony of small subsistence farms to federal relief administrator, Harry Hopkins, and located “Colonization Project No. 1” on 16,000 acres of land in Mississippi County. The colony was laid out featuring a town square at the hub with farmsteads stretching out from the center. The first thirteen families arrived in October 1934. An official dedication was held on May 22, 1936, the second anniversary of the colony, and the project was officially named Dyess Colony. Life was hard for the newly arrived colonists. Creating infrastructure and a community at Dyess Colony required
building from scratch. The area had to be cleared and drained, along with developing roads, bridges, utilities, houses, farm buildings, community buildings, and related services. Houses were built as three, four, or five-room models, each with six to eight different styles, including variations in roof lines, porches, and floor plans. Water was supplied at each house site from thirty-foot wells with hand pumps. Though houses were wired for electricity and had plumbing fixtures and water connections, these amenities were not functional until power lines could be extended to the home sites approximately ten years after the first colonists moved in. Along with building a community from the ground up, an organizational structure was put into place to manage the colony and assist the farmers and their families. Men were advised on acreage allocations, farm animals and equipment, planning, planting, harvesting, and care of livestock. Women received assistance on setting up and maintaining attractive households, gardening, canning, sewing, childcare, family hygiene (ie. “Take a tub bath with soda and ammonia at least two times each week” and “Change your underwear every day.”), as well as managing household budgets. From the beginning the plan was to enable colonists to purchase their farmsteads at reasonable rates, based on initial costs of the property, buildings and improvements added by the government, and a prorated share of the infrastructure costs. However, much of the financial and contractual terms and conditions were not clearly understood by many of the colonists. After Dyess’ death in 1936, Floyd Sharp became director of the WPA in
Arkansas and instituted some necessary administrative changes. He commenced proper appraisals of the properties and set up a system of contracts with the colonists to explain their obligations and line out a process by which they could repay their loans and take ownership of their property. However, many colonists had become irritated. Some thought the contract amounts were much too high and the land was inflated beyond what the government originally paid. Others could not adjust to the rules of the colony, including dealing with intrusive Federal supervision. Still others were homesick or found the work much too hard. For those who stayed, however, it meant they finally owned their piece of land and had some control over their family’s future. Johnny Cash’s parents, Ray and Carrie, were among the nearly 500 families recruited from all over Arkansas to Dyess Colony. Ray, the youngest of twelve children, was the son of William Henry Cash, a farmer and traveling preacher. Descended from Scottish royalty, the first Cash settled in America in the 1600s. Ray’s grandfather, Reuben Cash, homesteaded in Arkansas in 1866 after losing the family’s Georgia planta-
tion during the Civil War. Carrie’s father, John L. Rivers of Kingsland, was the worship leader in his church and instilled a love of music in his children. Ray and Carrie married in 1920. Ray sharecropped when work was available and took odd jobs when it was not, including riding the rails. Five of their seven children, including J.R. (Johnny), were born in the rugged home they occupied in the woods by the railroad tracks in Kingsland, Arkansas. The Cashes moved to Dyess Colony in March 1935. With no money down, the Cash family was “given” twenty acres of fertile bottomland and a fiveroom house, number 266 on Road 3 (now Mississippi County Road W924), in which to live. Those twenty acres were primarily a morass of briars and trees that took several years to convert to cotton production. When they moved to the colony Ray and Carrie had five children with them: Roy, Louise, Jack, Johnny, and Reba. Johnny was three years old. Two additional children, Joanne and Tommy, were born in Dyess. In the Johnny Cash biography Winners Got Scars Too, Ray reminisced, “We heard that we could buy twenty
acres without any money down, and a house and a barn, and they would give us a mule, a cow, and furnish groceries throughout the year until we had a crop and could pay it back, and we didn’t have to pay until the crops came in.” The new life for families in Dyess Colony came with lots of surprises, beginning with the difficulty of converting the land to agricultural production. It could take thirty days to clear an acre. While the soil was fertile, it presented challenges few had previously encountered. Nicknamed “black gumbo” due to its high clay content, the soil could only be worked under certain weather conditions. If too wet, it was a sticky tar and clogged up equipment. If too dry, it could harden like rock and would be like hammering away at stone. First on the list was creating a garden, along with a potato and corn patch, for producing and canning the family’s food. Colonists were encouraged to grow tomatoes, snap beans, limas, beets, cucumbers, peas, peppers, and spinach. Each family was expected to have a flock of forty to sixty chickens, a brood sow, and one milk cow. The cash crop was cotton, but colonists also grew alfalfa and sorghum
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to feed livestock. Reflecting on life on their colony farm, Carrie said in Winners Got Scars Too, “That black mud would stick to your feet like glue. . . . If you tried to cook or make tea, the water would be black as ink. Or you’d put soap in that water and it would curdle just like buttermilk. It would be gummy and you just couldn’t use it. . . . We grew everything the land would produce that we could eat. I canned enough in summer to keep us through the winter. When the vegetables got low, we made soup with what was left. We didn’t waste anything.” In his autobiography, Man in Black, Johnny said of his boyhood on the farm, “I don’t believe a man ever lived who worked harder and was more dedicated to providing for his family than my father, Ray Cash. . . . At every meal thanks was given to God who had provided them the strength to earn that table of food. And it wasn’t ever an automatic ‘part of the meal prayer.’ It was a humble offering of gratitude. At the age of four I was carrying water to my daddy and older brother Roy and sister Louise as they worked the cotton. At the age of ten I was working in the field, and Reba was carrying water. We soon learned it was not only our obligation, but our privilege to help making the cotton crop. We worked, too, with the corn and garden vegetables. We fed and watered the animals, the two plow mules, the cow, and the pigs, and I can’t remember anyone ever complaining.” Music was part of the Cash home, both in the house and in the fields. Johnny spent hours in front of the family radio, a replica of which is featured in the restored Cash home, which took him to faraway places such as New Orleans, Cincinatti, Fort Worth, and Nashville. “Nothing in the world was as important to me as hearing those songs on that radio. The music carried me up above the mud, the work, and the hot sun,” Johnny said. Carrie taught Johnny a few chords at an early age, and after spending time as a young teen with a Dyess friend and gifted guitarist, Johnny decided music would be “my magic to take me through all the dark places.” Recognizing his talent, Carrie took in laundry to afford singing lessons, but his teacher sent him home advising him not to let anyone change the way he sang. Johnny’s early public performances in Dyess include “Drink to Me Only with Thine Eyes “ at the 1949 commencement exercises when he was a junior in high school and “The Whiffenpoof Song” at his own commencement the following year. Johnny lived in Dyess until he graduated from high school in 1950, whereupon he enlisted in the United States Air Force on July 7th. Four years later when the soil began wearing out and could no longer produce a good crop after nearly twenty years of toil, Johnny’s parents sold their farm and moved into a home near the center of town, taking jobs in the community. Of the original 500 houses in the colony, the
26 Come Home / Volume 3, Issue 5
THE ARKANSAS STATE UNIVERSITY HERITAGE SITE is open to the public with tours running 9 AM to 3 PM, Monday to Saturday. Admission fees are: $10 GENERAL ADMISSION $8 SENIOR RATE $8 GROUP RATE (groups of 10 or morecomp tour operator and bus driver) $5 STUDENT RATE (children 5-18 or with a university ID) $5 FIELD TRIP RATE (comp all bus drivers and 1 chaperone per 10 students) Free FOR CHILDREN UNDER 5 AND ASU STUDENTS All tours start at the Visitors Center: 110 Center Drive, Dyess, AR, 72330
FOR MORE INFORMATION and to plan your visit, check out the following sites: dyesscash.astate.edu johnnycashheritagefestival.com
Cash home is one of forty-two remaining. The Cash family has been actively involved in the restoration of the home. Based on family memories, it is furnished as it appeared when the Cash family lived there and conveys their lifestyle as typical colonists. It even includes Carrie’s original upright piano, a special artifact considering Johnny received so much musical inspiration from his mother. The home is becoming a major tourist destination and was even featured in the motion picture I Walk the Line, but there is still work that needs to be done. On March 3, 2016, Governor Asa Hutchinson committed $100,000 from the general discretionary account toward Arkansas State University’s Heritage Sites Program and the continuing Johnny Cash Boyhood Home project. The Governor made the announcement during “An Evening with Roseanne Cash,” a fundraiser at the Governor’s Mansion. “As we promote Arkansas tourism, we recognize that a significant part of the future of tourism in this state is our heritage sites, including the Johnny Cash Boyhood Home in Dyess. The support of the Cash family and the connection to Rosanne Cash to this state is significant, and I am delighted that the state can continue to support Arkansas State University in preserving these heritage sites for the next generation,” Governor Hutchinson said. The funds have been appropriated toward restoring additional Cash outbuildings, including moving and rebuilding existing colony structures and acquiring materials from original Dyess colony buildings for the reconstruction. A barn will be built with the interior designed for use as classrooms, offices, and a conference/ special event space. The cost of these projects is estimated around $500,000, the balance of which will come from privately raised funds or grants. As more funds become available, other phases of restoration will include recreating the outbuildings at the Cash home (smokehouse, chicken coop, and outhouse), rebuilding a former colony house adjacent to the Cash house to provide visitor services, adding historic signage at locations throughout the community, and developing a walking trail between the town square and the Cash home. One way ASU will be raising money is by hosting the first Johnny Cash Heritage Festival which will be held October 19-21, 2017 in Dyess. The event is co-sponsored by ASU’s Heritage Studies Ph.D. Program and the Historic Dyess Colony: Johnny Cash Boyhood Home. A public symposium focusing on “Arts and Artistry from the New Deal and Beyond” will also be held and ASU has placed an open call for presentations. Of course, the most consistent way to raise money is for people like you to come visit Historic Dyess Colony and The Boyhood Home of Johnny Cash and see the restoration efforts that have preserved this unique American farming community and the childhood of an American music icon. CH
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My Oh My! Mini Peach Pies Ingredients 2 boxes (14.1 oz each) refrigerated pie crust 1 can (21 oz) peach pie filling 1 tsp cinnamon 2 1/2 cups powdered sugar 1/4 cup milk 1 egg white, beaten
Directions Preheat oven to 425°F. Remove pie crusts from package and allow to come to room temperature while you prepare filling. Dump pie filling in a shallow bowl and dice peaches using a fork and knife (you want them to be small pieces). Add in cinnamon and mix until blended. Set aside. Unroll pie crusts and cut 6 circles from each crust. You may have to re-roll the scraps to get the 6th circle. You will have 24 mini crusts. Using 1 Tbs cookie scoop, drop peach pie filling into center of each pie crust circle. Fold in half and pinch edges completely. Fold pinched edges over and press with the tines of a fork to seal. Poke hand pie with fork once, to prevent bursting. Beat egg white in a small bowl until frothy. Brush over the tops of each hand pie. Bake on a parchment paper lined baking sheet (1 inch apart) for about 15 minutes, until browned. While pies are baking, whisk together the powdered sugar and milk until smooth. Remove cooked pies from baking sheet and drop (while warm) into glaze, coating it completely. I use two forks to flip it in the glaze and remove carefully. Return to parchment paper and allow to set (about 5 minutes).
WRITTEN AND PHOTGRAPHED BY Heather Hinrichs Volume 3, Issue 5 / Come Home
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Grilled Peach Salad Ingredients: Grilled Peaches Spinach Blueberries Feta Cheese Pecans-Chopped Red Onion—Optional Pecan Whiskey Dressing
Directions Slice peaches into thick wheels. Brush peach slices with Pecan Whiskey Dressing. Season with salt and pepper. Grill over high heat until grill marks form, turning once. Compose salad, drizzle dressing and enjoy!
Pecan Whiskey Dressing: 2 T. of brown sugar 1 1/2 T. Pecan Whiskey 1 t. rosemary, minced 1 garlic clove, minced 1 T. of brown sugar 1/3 c. olive oil salt and pepper to taste
Directions Process the first five ingredients in the small bowl of a food processor, then stream in the oil olive. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Blend again. Serve at room temperature.
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Fresh Peach Sherbert Ingredients 1 Can Sweetened Condensed Milk 6 Ripe peaches, peeled, slixed and frozen
Directions Peel fresh peaches over a wax paper lined baking sheet to catch the juice. Slice the peaches and freeze them (and any accumulated juice) in a single layer on the wax paper lined baking sheet until frozen, about 4 hours. Add the peaches and sweetened condensed milk to a blender and puree until the peaches are the consistency of soft serve ice cream. This can be done in batches if needed. Serve immediately or freeze in an airtight container for an ice cream consistency.
Volume 3, Issue 5 / Come Home
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Grilled Peaches and Chicken Ingredients 1 cup peach preserves 2 cloves of garlic minced or grated 2 tablespoons of olive oil, plus more for brushing 1 tablespoon soy sauce 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard Âź teaspoon cayenne pepper (or to taste) 1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste Âź teaspoon ground black pepper, plus more to taste 4 chicken breast, split (you can use 8 chicken tights instead) 4 ripe peaches pitted and cut in half
Brush the chicken with olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Place the chicken skin side down and cook for 6-8 minutes or until golden brown. Turn the chicken over and brush some glaze on top. Cook for another 5-6 minutes. Flip the chicken, brush with the glaze and cook for a few minutes. Remove the chicken from the grill and place it in an oven safe dish. Generously brush more glaze onto the chicken. Place in the oven and cook for about 30-40 minutes or until cooked through. (If using skinless
Directions
breast or tenders the bake time in the
Preheat the grill to medium hot.
oven goes down to 15 to 20 minutes.)
For the glaze, in a medium bowl,
Place the peach halves on the grill cut
combine the peach preserves, garlic, olive
side down, grill for 2 minutes. Turn and
oil, soy sauce, Dijon mustard, cayenne
brush with the reserved glaze. Grill until the
pepper, salt and black pepper and mix
peaches are soft (about 3 more minutes).
well. Reserve 2 tablespoons of the glaze.
32 Come Home / Volume 3, Issue 5
Preheat the oven to 350 F
Transfer to a platter and serve.
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