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The First American Woman to Cross the Sierra

Breaking up Camp at Sunrise, by Alfred Jacob Miller

by Mark McLaughlin

Much has been written of the Donner Party’s tragic entrapment in the deep Sierra snow during the winter of 1846-47. Those with a cursory knowledge of America’s 19th century westward migration are also familiar with the Stephen’s Party, which successfully crossed Truckee’s Pass with wagons in 1844 and opened the California Trail. But fewer are aware of the Bidwell-Bartleson Party, a group of 34 plucky pioneers who survived a trans-Sierra crossing in 1841. Among the group of young men was an 18-year-old farm girl, Nancy Kelsey, who carried her baby, Martha Ann nearly 2,000 miles across an unknown continent.

By 1841, overland emigration to the Oregon Country in the Pacific Northwest was established, but the route to California was still untested. For most Americans at that time it was much easier and faster to reach Europe than the Pacific Coast. Little was known of the Great Basin except what trappers had reported.

Lured by the tales of bountiful farming land in California, a region thought to be free of major disease and blessed by a wonderful climate, individuals and families in the frontier states along the Mississippi River formed emigration groups and geared up for a mass exodus in the spring of 1841. Merchants and business owners, however, started a negative media campaign that scared off all but the boldest pioneers.

When it came time to leave in early May 1841, only John Bidwell, a 21-year-old school teacher, along with his companions, showed up for the arduous trek. Eventually another 50 people under the organization of a Jesuit missionary arrived. Father Pierre Jean DeSmet was bound for the Oregon Country to establish the first of his many Indian missions in the Far West.

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Nancy Kelsey Only miles into the journey, nine young men on horseback galloped up to the slow moving wagon train. Their leader, John Bartleson, brandished a letter he claimed to have received from John Marsh, an American who had settled near Mount Diablo, near the San Francisco Bay. Marsh was an advocate for westward expansion and encouraged his fellow countrymen to head to California, a Mexican province. In the letter, Marsh vaguely described a route overland to the Sacramento Valley. The news helped persuade Bidwell and about 30 others to decide that they would head for California.

Bidwell was the leading spirit among his group, but Bartleson insisted on taking the captaincy for himself.

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CELEBRATING OVER

Among the emigrants heading to the Oregon Country was the large Kelsey family from Kentucky. Two Kelsey brothers, Andrew and continued on page 4

Winter 2021

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continued from page 3 Benjamin decided to join Bidwell in the attempt to reach California. (Ben and Nancy had married when she was 15.) The rest of the Kelsey kin continued with their journey to the Willamette Valley in Oregon. When members in the Kelsey clan asked Nancy why she would risk her baby’s life on the untested California trail, she replied, “Where my husband goes, I go. I can better endure the hardships of the journey, than the anxieties for an absent husband.” (Nancy was also pregnant with another child.) Excluding Nancy, Ben and Martha Ann, the Bartleson-Bidwell Party consisted of 31 unmarried young men seeking adventure. One thing that they all had in common was their ignorance of frontier skills and Indian lore. Only half had some knowledge of firearms, and fewer still were accomplished hunters. The little experience they had with wagons and livestock came from farming. Their vehicles varied from two-wheeled carts to small farm wagons. They brought a bit of cured meat, but expected to hunt game for fresh meat on the way.

Great Salt Lake and then plodded through a waterless, salt-encrusted desert where they were forced to abandon their wagons and transfer what they could carry to their pack animals. For two more weeks, the party survived miles of desert until after crossing the snow-capped Ruby Mountains they finally stumbled upon the lifesaving Humboldt River. As the group struggled west, they killed their oxen for food. They were a pitiful sight, especially Nancy Kelsey, who stumbled along barefoot, carrying her child in her arms and leading a horse.

Frustrated with the company’s slow pace, in early October Captain Bartleson and his men killed a remaining ox, took a double share of the meat, and rode off on horseback. Bartleson called back to say that he would see them in California. The party was split on what to do, return to Fort Hall or continue on, but a ballot was held and the majority voted for California. Once the group reached the terminus of the Humboldt River they headed south. The best

For the next few months, both Oregon and California-bound parties traveled together following a virtual highway of rivers. After successfully traversing the treacherous South Fork of the Platte River, they reached the temporary safety of Fort Laramie on June 22. They had traveled 625 miles in 42 days, a steady pace of 15 miles per day. (Interstate motorists today travel 15 miles in less than 15 minutes.) Before reaching Fort Hall on the Snake River, the Bartleson-Bidwell Party split off and headed south for the Humboldt River. They didn’t realize it, but they were more than 200 miles from the river’s headwaters.

The Bidwell-Bartleson Party failed to bring wagons into the Mexican province of California, but they proved that an overland crossing was possible. Their successful journey inspired other immigrants to roll their wagons west, leading to the 1844 crossing at Donner Pass by the Stephens Party, which opened the California Trail.

No lives were lost in the 1841 effort, and Nancy Kelsey and her daughter Martha Ann became the first Euro-American females to cross the Sierra and settle in California.

The experienced frontiersman Thomas “Broken Hand” Fitzpatrick had been hired by Fr. DeSmet to lead the way to Oregon. Fitzpatrick pleaded with the greenhorns to forget California, warning that they would never make it. Twelve of the California-bound pioneers took his sober advice, but Bidwell and the others were determined to proceed with their reckless plan.

Despite Marsh’s letter, no one in the party possessed accurate information about California or how to get there.

Joseph Chiles, a member of the party and future leader of other emigrant wagon trains, later stated that they traveled seven months with no guide, no compass, and nothing but the sun to direct them. They wandered around the north end of the

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They crossed the lower reaches of the Carson River, but decided against following it upstream to the mountains and kept walking south along the eastern Sierra. When they reached the Walker River, they mistook it for the San Joaquin in California’s central valley.

The faltering emigrants soon realized their mistake as they struggled up the challenging river canyon toward Sonora Pass.

Looking up at the rugged peaks, Bidwell remarked, “If California lies beyond those mountains we shall never be able to reach it.” But they continued to push up the steep, east Sierra slope. At one point Bartleson and his men rode up, all of them weak with dysentery that they had contracted from drinking bad water. Chastened by their reckless behavior, they were welcomed back to the group. By the time the partyreached the Sierra crest, they had eaten the last of their beef and were now killing the horses and mules for food. Following a precipitous Indian trail along granite cliffs, four of their pack animals lost their footing and plummeted to their deaths. On October 17 they finally began their descent down the Stanislaus River Canyon.

Benjamin Kelsey

route was actually due west toward the Truckee and Carson rivers, but the desperate group had no idea where they were. John Bartleson’s abandonment of the party left the leadership position to John Bidwell and his new acquaintance, Benjamin Kelsey.

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On November 4, the pioneers reached fellow American John Marsh’s ranch at the foot of Mount Diablo (Bay Area), but they were quickly arrested and detained as illegal foreigners by Mexican authorities.

They were freed only after General Mariano Vallejo issued them Mexican passports. Several weeks later the Kelseys reached Sutter’s Fort on Christmas Day. Shortly after their arrival Nancy gave birth to a baby boy.

Pregnant during their epic 2,000 mile journey, Nancy had trudged over the rugged Sierra Range while in her third trimester!

Nancy and Ben were safe in California, but their western adventures were just beginning. Described as footloose, Benjamin was forever pursuing dreams and schemes, and continued on page 8

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Overcoming the Mask Tips for communicating through COVID-19

Data shows people who can’t hear others begin to stay away from other people, and social isolation can lead to anxiety and depression. People who have trouble hearing also tend to have higher hospitalization rates and longer hospital stays, according to research published in “JAMA Otolaryngology.”

Among those 55 and older who have hearing loss, 58% don’t use hearing aids. In the past, statistics have shown people waiting up to seven years before getting a hearing aid from the time of diagnosis. However, the communication challenges posed during COVID-19 are driving some to address their hearing sooner than they may have otherwise.

It can be challenging to communicate through masks, 6-feet of social distance, physical barriers and other factors due to COVID-19 that have changed daily life.

For people with hearing loss, this is an especially challenging time. In a telling sign of increased hearing difficulty, usage of online hearing tests increased 500% since the pandemic began.

“With COVID-19 and masks, everyday tasks are a source of frustration, such as asking a question at the grocery store deli or talking to someone from behind a customer service desk,” said Bill Schiffmiller, a lifelong hearing aid user and founder and CEO of Akoio, a hearing wellness company. “It’s a triple threat because masks reduce the loudness of the voice, muffle pronunciation and eliminate visuals like facial expressions and lip reading.”

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helping him or her read some of your facial expressions. When using video conference services, look directly into the camera in a well-lit room and ensure you have clear picture quality to help with lip reading.

5. Be patient. Remember the increased challenges people with hearing loss are facing now. If communication becomes too challenging through a mask, have a backup plan such as pen and paper or a smartphone note-taking app.

When You’re Having Trouble Hearing

Help Someone Hear You Better

1. Talk to your friends and family. Tell them what you’re experiencing and be clear and direct in expressing your thoughts and feelings. Ask whether they have noticed your hearing troubles and listen to their feedback.

1. Consider the mask you’re wearing. Clear masks provide a visual difference, helping with lip reading and facial expressions. The plastic in clear masks, however, can muffle sound too much for some. According to audiologist Dr. Shivani Patel, high-frequency hearing loss is common, making female voices difficult to hear. In this situation, research has found standard medical masks tend to transfer sound best. Try different masks to see what works for you.

2. Describe specific instances and circumstances when your hearing is affected most.

Armed with this knowledge, friends and family can help you manage various situations.

3. Determine a plan of action. Set an appointment to have your hearing checked by an audiologist. If you wear a hearing aid, be sure to carry extra batteries. Notice ways to adjust your environment to reduce background noise.

2. Minimize background noise. Music, construction, other conversations, heaters and fans can make it challenging to communicate when wearing a mask.

4. Make hearing wellness a priority. Data shows hearing is important to a person’s mental and physical wellness, and untreated hearing loss can have multiple health consequences.

3. Avoid “cavernous” rooms. An environment with mostly hard surfaces, such as a large meeting room or gymnasium, offers minimal sound dampening and can make hearing comprehension more difficult.

4. Maintain eye contact. Look directly at the person you’re speaking to and speak clearly,

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Find more hearing resources, downloadable guides and an audiologist finder at akoio.com.

Photo courtesy of Getty Images (friends talking) Photo courtesy of Akoio (mask examples)

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continued from page 4 although the couple never stayed in one place very long, they produced another nine children. In April 1842, the Kelseys visited Napa Valley, where they settled and built a cabin near Calistoga. Ben, and his brother, Andrew, who had also made the trip to California with the Bidwell group, were expert hunters and they made a living hunting deer and elk, which they rendered for tallow and hides.

and cook for Captain John C. Frémont’s volunteer forces. She was also one of several women who furnished the cloth and sewed together the original Bear Flag that California still flies today. (Nancy is touted as the “Betsy Ross of California” on her gravesite in the Cuyama Valley.) Shortly after the

Ben, Nancy, Andrew and Martha Ann had immigrated to California, but the rest of the Kelsey clan had journeyed to Oregon in 1841. In 1843, the California Kelseys had accumulated 100 head of cattle and they decided to take the herd north to Fort Vancouver to sell for a high price. On the way they were raided by hostile Indians. Despite the attacks, they managed to get most of the cattle through and sold the livestock for a tidy profit. Before returning to California the following spring, they visited members of the Kelsey family living in Oregon where Nancy gave birth to another daughter.

They moved back to their cabin in Napa in 1844, and two more Kelsey brothers joined them. In June 1846, the Kelsey men participated in the Bear Flag Rebellion at Sonoma, at the outset of the Mexican- American War. At the time, Nancy worked as a seamstress

John Bidwell

Mexican War ended, Nancy’s brother-in-law, Andrew settled on a ranch near Clear Lake, where he founded Kelseyville, the first town in Lake County.

In early 1848, James Marshall discovered gold at John Sutter’s wood mill, at Coloma on the American River. Ben Kelsey joined the rush to the Sierra foothills where he made a gold strike in what became Kelsey’s Diggings, now known as Kelsey in El Dorado County. In 1856 they traveled to Kern County, where Ben built a toll bridge across the Kern River. A few years later Ben wasn’t feeling well, so they headed for Mexico and the desert Southwest to improve his health. It must have worked because Nancy gave birth to their last two children during their stay.

In the mid 1860s, the Kelseys were living in Southern California where Ben died in 1889 at age 75. Nancy died of cancer in 1896, shortly after her seventy-third birthday.

The Bidwell-Bartleson wagon train, with Nancy Kelsey, was the first organized group of American emigrants to reach California via the untried overland trail through the Great Basin, along the Humboldt River. Their epic journey proved that a direct crossing was indeed feasible and paved the way for the 1844 Stephens Party.

All photos courtesy of the California State Library

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Snow Lab Robert Rhew

How does this winter’s snowfall compare to last year, or the last decade, or even the last century? While early November 2020 brought higher than normal snowfall to Donner Summit, the cumulative amount of winter snow as of January 3, 2021, is below the 40-year median. Putting any year in context like this relies on long-term snow measurements. For Donner Pass, these measurements are taken at the Central Sierra Snow Lab in Soda Springs, a University of California Berkeley research facility located about 10 miles due west of Truckee and 20 miles northwest of Lake Tahoe.

Measuring snowpack is critically important to life in California and Nevada, and one of the oldest and most important stations doing this research in the Sierra Nevada is about to enter a new phase of operations.

The Central Sierra Snow Lab (aka “Snow Lab” or “CSSL”) is one of the nation's principal observatories of hydrological and meteorological phenomena in a mountain environment. The Snow Lab was originally established in 1946 by the US Army Corps of Engineers and Weather Bureau as one of three outdoor laboratories to study snow and snowmelt, with the purpose of solving hydrologic problems in the western United States. While the other two laboratories closed in the early 1950s, the Snow Lab survived and was managed by the U.S. Forest service from 1954 to 1995. On its 50th anniversary in 1996, the USDA disbanded the project, and the 7 full-time employees either retired or were reassigned. The

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Northwoods Tahoe | www.northwoods.news

long-term investment in snow science was about to come to an end, with a potentially devastating loss of continuous snow data collection in a region of the Sierra Nevada with an extraordinarily long snow record.

Combined with Donner Summit measurements collected by the Southern Pacific railroad, the snow record goes back to 1879.

Faced with this impending crisis, the Vice Chancellor of Research at UC Berkeley agreed in 1996 to assume management of the Snow Lab through an agreement with the USDA Forest Service. The number of personnel decreased from seven to one.

A talented young snow researcher named Randall Osterhuber was the sole USDA employee that transferred over to become the first UC Berkeley Central Sierra Snow Lab station manager. Like an Indiana Jones of snow, Randall has endured extreme weather conditions and outdoor adventures while collecting precise measurements, year after year, from 1996 all the way until his retirement last winter.

The major function of the Snow Lab is hydrological research and the station features a heavily-instrumented field site. Randall maintained the site and provided technical expertise to researchers from various research entities, such as the University of California, Department of Water Resources, National Weather Service, Natural Resource Conservation Service, Western Regional Climate Center, and USDA Forest Service.

Over the years, the research projects at Snow Lab included a wide range of snow research: assessing the role of black carbon on snow; determining the isotopic evolution of the snowpack; developing new

technologies to measure snowpack snow water equivalent; evaluating the operational utility of weather forecasts; using LiDAR to measure snowpack spatial and temporal distribution; determining trends in Sierra Nevada climatology and snowpack during the past six decades; modeling ground and surface water response to snow accumulation and ablation; modeling air temperature lapse rate; developing fluidless precipitation gauges; conducting snow surveys; and improving avalanche safety and forecasting.

In the Donner-Tahoe community, the Snow Lab may be best known for the annual snow report it produces. This graph shows how each year compares with the long term historical record for snowfall. Snowfall is the most visible indicator of climate, and one of the most closely watched by snow sport enthusiasts. Even more important for water resources is the measure of the amount of water it contains, a quantity

The 2019-20 winter brought a dual crisis to the Snow Lab. First, Randall retired in December 2019, bringing the station personnel count to zero. Second, the funding to the Snow Lab, which had been declining in real dollars for a decade, was under threat of being zeroed out. The Research Office which saved the Snow Lab 23 years earlier was working through multi-year budget austerity measures. Priority was being put into research centers that supported university research, whereas the Snow Lab served primarily to support governmental agencies and the local communities in the Central Sierra. The fact that UC Berkeley even runs a Snow Lab in Soda Springs is probably equally surprising to readers here as it is to members of the UC Berkeley community. known as the Snow Water Equivalent (SWE).

The Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) maintains a long-term SWE instrument at the Snow Lab with records going back to 1980. With such a long dataset of multiple meteorological observations, we can have a much better understanding of climate change in the Sierra Nevada, such as what the overall rainfall patterns are, the changes to nighttime temperature, how many rain on snow events there are, and how fast the snow melts in the spring.

River Citizens League. Each group extolled the importance of continuing Snow Lab operations, which ultimately convinced the university to allow a new station manager to be recruited.

As the Faculty Director of the Central Sierra Field Stations (which includes the Snow Lab as well as the Sagehen Creek Field Station), I needed to figure out a path forward. In January, 2020, I organized a meeting to bring together the many stakeholders interested in the future of the Snow Lab. People came from the Department for Water Resources, the National Weather Service, the NRCS/ USDA, UC Davis, University of Nevada at Reno, the Desert Research Institute, a hydrology consulting firm, and the South Yuba

COVID-19 stopped those plans. At the university, the pandemic led to closures of offices and laboratories, crippled the university budget, and led to a universal hiring freeze. After months of appeals to get an exceptional approval to replace the snow lab manager, a new manager is finally projected to start leadership at the Snow Lab within a few months. In the interim, a local hero, Justin Lichter, took up the role of collecting manual snow measurements at the Snow Lab to stem the loss of data that has been occurring since last December. With his support, we have been able to minimize the damage done to our long-term climatological records.

Thus the Snow Lab is about to write a new chapter of field measurements, one that will continue its record of science for the public good.

Robert Rhew is an earth system science professor in the Department of Geography at UC Berkeley. He serves as the Faculty Director for the UC Berkeley Central Sierra Field Stations. You can reach him at rrhew@berkeley.edu

Winter 2021 11

Filling Family Comfort Foods Just the thought of comfort foods is often enough to warm the soul, especially as cool winds blow and temperatures drop. When cooler weather calls for hearty meals to give your family a warming boost, you can turn to simple shortcuts for comforting flavor without skipping on quality.

It’s hard to go wrong with a casserole on a chilly day. This Chicken and Rice Casserole with Spinach and Mushrooms is made with simple ingredients you probably already have on hand. Because it takes just 20 minutes to make, this recipe is easy to put on the table quickly and may become a new family favorite. Plus, you only use a couple of dishes to prepare, which makes for a simple cleanup after a filling meal.

Parmesan Stuffed Peppers with Rice is the perfect recipe if you are looking for a tasty dish that’s a little outside the box. It’s an Italian spin on a classic dish using a variety of cheeses packed into colorful bell peppers. You can preheat the oven while completing the minimal preparation then bake to a bubbling, golden perfection.

The convenience, taste, texture and quality of Success Brown Rice as one of the main ingredients in these recipes helps make mealtime a cinch. In fact, any variety can be used in this recipe, including white rice, quinoa and more. Its “Boil-in-Bag” cooking process provides a satisfying shortcut as you simply add water to a saucepan, drop the BPA-free bag into the water, boil for 10 minutes and remove with a fork for a no mess, no measure timesaver.

Visit SuccessRice.com for more comfort food recipes.

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Northwoods Tahoe | www.northwoods.news

Chicken and Rice Casserole with Spinach and Mushrooms Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: 10 minutes Servings: 4 1 1/2 1/4 1 1 1/3 2 1/2 1/4 4 2 1/2 1/2

bag Success Brown Rice cup ricotta cheese cup grated Parmesan cheese tablespoon chopped Italian parsley tablespoon olive oil cup chopped onions garlic cloves, minced package (4 ounces) mushrooms, sliced cup white wine cups baby spinach leaves cups shredded, cooked chicken breast teaspoon salt teaspoon black pepper

Prepare rice according to package directions. In small bowl, combine ricotta, Parmesan and parsley; reserve.

In large skillet over medium heat, heat oil. Add onions and garlic; saute 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and wine to skillet. Continue cooking 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add spinach and chicken.

Stir until spinach is wilted and chicken is heated through, about 2 minutes. Stir in rice, salt and pepper.

Serve casserole topped with dollops of reserved cheese mixture.

Parmesan Stuffed Peppers with Rice Prep time: 15 minutes Cook time: 30 minutes Servings: 6 2 2 1/2 1/4 3 1 1/4

bags Success Brown Rice cups (or 1 can, 15 ounces) tomato sauce, divided cup grated Parmesan cheese, divided cup basil pesto large bell peppers in assorted colors, halved lengthwise cup shredded mozzarella cheese cup fresh basil leaves, thinly sliced

Preheat oven to 425 F. Prepare rice according to package directions.

Add 1 1/2 cups tomato sauce to greased 13-by-9-inch baking dish. In bowl, toss rice with remaining tomato sauce, 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese and pesto.

Divide rice mixture evenly among peppers. Place stuffed peppers in prepared baking dish. Sprinkle mozzarella and remaining Parmesan cheese over peppers.

Cover with foil; bake 18-20 minutes, or until peppers are tender, filling is heated through and cheese is melted. Remove foil. Broil 3-5 minutes, or until cheese is golden brown. Garnish with fresh basil.

Substitutions: Use fontina or provolone for mozzarella cheese and olive tapenade for basil pesto.

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5 Steps Schools Are Taking to Help Feed Children During the Pandemic be present to pick up food; parents, siblings or caregivers can collect the meals.

Raising Awareness of Options and Locations In response to crisis-level food-insecurity, GENYOUth, working with multinational software corporation SAP, engineered the SAP4Kids digital school-meal locator app so families in need can find food and other resources near them amid the pandemic while also providing ways for organizations to offer additional support.

Providing Multiple Meals at a Time Scheduling is also a factor, leading some schools to offer multiple meals at a time.

Whether it’s meals for a full day or enough food for several days, offering multiple meals at a single pickup time streamlines scheduling for both the school and families. In addition, it reduces points of contact, helping to reduce the risk of COVID-19 transmission.

Nearly 30 million children in the United States rely on school meals for a significant portion of their daily nutrition. Since the start of the pandemic, the number of food-insecure children has increased 20% to 1 in 4. Although many schools are operating remote or hybrid models, most are still open full-time for feeding students.

An issue-framing report by GENYOUth, a national nonprofit dedicated to creating healthier school communities, addresses what’s at stake for schools today, progress that has been made, challenges they face and key opportunities that exist. It concludes that although the role of the school building has changed this year, health-promoting schools supporting the “whole child,” including ensuring children receive proper nutrition, matter more than ever for students to live full, productive lives.

Due to COVID-19, school nutrition professionals, bus drivers and volunteers are taking measures to distribute and deliver school

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meals through a variety of methods that enable social distancing, including grab and go, bus stop drop off and drive-thru pick up.

Seeking Assistance and Support Federal funding continues to support school meal programs, but schools are also partnering with a wide range of organizations committed to students’ nutrition needs. One example is GENYOUth’s Emergency School Meal Delivery Fund, which has provided thousands of schools with millions of dollars in grants and in-kind support. The fund provides monetary grants to schools to supply resources for meal distribution and delivery to help ensure children continue getting nutritious meals.

Creating Extended Meal Pickup Times During the initial lockdown, many families were home and had greater flexibility to pick up meals during a narrow window of time.

However, as people return to more typical work schedules, their availability to take advantage of provided meals is compressing.

Some districts are expanding, even doubling, their pickup windows to provide greater access for families.

“We are at an extraordinary moment where schools are taking unprecedented, heroic measures to get meals to kids,” said Alexis Glick, CEO of GENYOUth. “Our fund provides grants to schools for the equipment, transportation and resources they need to feed kids daily. I believe the only hunger children should face is a hunger to learn.”

Eliminating Barriers to Providing Meals School feeding programs are typically required to collect income eligibility applications from families to determine if children are eligible for free or reduced-price meals.

Due to the pandemic, the United States Department of Agriculture is allowing schools to waive those requirements and offer free meals to every student. In addition, many school feeding sites don’t require students to

Photo courtesy of Getty Images

Northwoods Tahoe | www.northwoods.news

To learn more about the report or donate to the COVID-19 Emergency School Meal Delivery Fund, visit genyouthnow.org or text “SCHOOLS” to 20222 to make a one-time donation of $25.

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