FRE E TO D I G E S T AT YO U R L EISURE
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P U B L I C A T I O N
A DELICIOUS CELEBRATION OF GREAT GUERNSEY FOOD
GUERNSEY’S CELEBRITY FOOD AMBASSADOR TELLING PORKY’S BEACH KIOSK REVIVAL
SUPPOR TED BY TASTE GUERNSEY
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Welcome Welcome to Taste of the Rock a special Rock edition to coincide with Guernsey’s festival of food month. This is a delicious celebration of Guernsey’s finest food events, food producers, food heroes and dining out experiences. This supplement features a host of articles and features dedicated to those Guernsey food experiences that make up the ‘Taste of Guernsey’ (hence the name). We meet Guernsey’s new tourism ambassador James Strawbridge. We find out why Porky’s is an award winning producer and showcase the food event of the year at Seafront Sunday and the TasteGuernsey Festival. We visit Guernsey Dairy to tell the fascinating story of its cheese production and award winning status. We want to bottle Katherine Paine’s energy as much as her husband’s Espesso Vodka. The Paine’s are the force and faces behind Haut Maison Liqueurs. Taste Guernsey’s chairman swaps restaurants in Brighton as part of the International Chef Challenge and we meet the man behind Christies Group’s family of restaurants. We hope you enjoy this special supplement dedicated to Guernsey’s exciting food and hospitality sector and if you would like to appear in our 2015 edition then please do not hesitate to get in touch with us. The Rock is published by On The Rock Media & Communications. All rights reserved. Any reproduction without permission is prohibited. Taste contains editorial content from external contributors which does not necessarily reflect the views of the publishers. The publisher does not accept or respond to unsolicited manuscripts and photographs. The publishers do not accept responsibility for errors in advertisements or third party offers.
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Tony Leck (Chairman) Tony runs The Pavilion restaurant, the only restaurant to hold the prestigious Michelin Bib Gourmand (awarded continuously for 9 years) and has been receiving awards for his skill and the excellence of his restaurant since it opened more than a decade ago. In 2004 he was Guernsey’s Ambassador of the Year recognising his work promoting the island through culinary events. “I believe that competitions and events are important; not only do they teach you self discipline and esteem but you also learn a little something from your fellow competitors, even team competitions build good working relationships and team values.“
Hugh Tabel. Hugh is director at family run catering business, Sueco Outside Catering which is in its 30th year of trading on Guernsey. Hugh is involved with menu development, event planning and development of new business. “I believe that Guernsey has a great deal to shout about in terms of indigenous food, local suppliers and cafes & restaurants. Taste Guernsey gives me the opportunity to mix with like minded people and promote the Guernsey brand to both locals and visitors.”
Calum Le Noury is Operations Director for the Sarnia Hotels Group which incorporates Moores Hotel, Les Rocquettes Hotel and Hotel de Havelet. He has had a long career in the hospitality industry having first been employed as an apprentice chef at Moores Hotel in 1980. Calum has been instrumental in developing the business and co-ordinating a programme of investment and improvement across the Group. “It’s a privilege to be involved with Taste Guernsey and help continue to develop the product and service that the island has to offer. Taste Guernsey celebrates everything that’s great about Guernsey food and is something we can all be very proud of.”
Siegi Moherndl. Director FreshGuernsey Herbs Ltd. Before Fresh Guernsey Herbs Siegi was a full time flower grower and started working for Sue and Ian Lloyd and Simon Falla part time 23 years ago and as the company grew took on more and more of the day to day running of this very busy company.“Joining Taste Guernsey will give a supplier view point to the group.”
Andrew Chantrall. “As General Manager of the Old Government House Hotel, I am a relative newcomer to Guernsey having moved here in June 2009. I moved here with my partner, now wife, and one of our greatest loves has always been cooking, eating and drinking. In Guernsey we have found the perfect place to explore that! I joined the committee of Taste Guernsey in May 2011. I am passionate about offering the very best in food and service in our island’s restaurants and giving people the opportunities to learn and develop their skills in both food and service and through Taste Guernsey believe that I am able to assist with that and ensure that we encourage the use of local produce and suppliers.”
Fenella Madison is the Artisan cheese maker responsible for (amongst other cheeses) the award winning Fort Grey blue cheese. She took up cheese making after a career in nursing. Fenella moved to Guernsey in 2004 and started making Fort Grey in 2009. “I love Guernsey, its sense of community, strong identity and its food!”
Robert Stean. “I started my catering career in my parent’s Inn where I cooked bar meals for up to 70 people a night at the tender age of 15. My hotel career began in 1976 where I worked across the UK, Switzerland and Guernsey. In total, I have worked in the Guernsey hotel industry for 21 years and now manage the four star hotel Fermain Valley. I am proud to be a member of this committee and look forward to helping promote what is a very exciting period in the life of our local hospitality industry.”
INTRODUCTION FROM THE CHAIRMAN _
G
uernsey has been my home now for more than 25 years and it is a place which constantly inspires me to create food using the very best local ingredients sourced from farms, market gardens and the seashore. This background has lead me to get involved with Taste Guernsey which was established to develop and promote activities which result in the provision of a high quality and value for money eating out experience in Guernsey. I am delighted that On The Rock Media & Communications will promote Taste Guernsey and all that is good about our unique events and initiatives by dedicating this supplement that presents Guernsey food, its restaurants and local producers at its very best. As Chairman of Taste Guernsey, I hope this supplement provides inspiration to
you all. Our mission at Taste Guernsey is to develop and promote activities which result in the provision of a high quality and value for money eating out experience in Guernsey. This Taste supplement reinforces this and offers a quality showcase of the diverse range of culinary expertise we have locally. We are so very lucky to live somewhere this unique, with some of the freshest and diverse produce literally on our doorstep. Guernsey residents are also rich in their choice of where to sample the menus created by a wealth of talented chefs – and here we hope to give you just a taste of the very best they have to offer. Taste Guernsey will stage a number of exciting events through the year so visit our website to find out more... www.tasteguernsey.com.
Tony Leck
TASTE GUERNSEY IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY
SEAFRONT SUNDAY SPONSOR
FESTIVAL SPONSOR
FESTIVAL NOTES 5
Taste Guernsey’s 2014 Festival promises to be the best yet. The Festival takes place from Monday 1st September until Tuesday 9th September. The majority of events take place in St Peter Port and in particular around a central stage in Market Square. To keep updated with all the latest news for the Festival visit tasteguernsey.com. The following is just a sample of what is on offer with a packed schedule for this year’s event.
Tuesday 2nd September Noon - 2.00pm Caoud tchan? or a lunch time treat from the pop up kitchen in front of the Tourist Information Centre, St Peter Port a special lunch time opportunity to get you in the mood for the festival.
Wednesday 3rd September Enjoy the countryside with a Hedgerow Hike in the company of gold Accredited Guide Gill Girard. Enjoy this delightful ramble around the lanes spotting the autumn harvest traditionally made into preserves and nutritious goodies. The walk starts and finishes at the Folk Museum in Saumarez Park. It includes a walk through the Victorian Walled Kitchen Garden and loops through green lanes and quiet roads with a tasting break at a traditional Guernsey farmhouse before returning through green lanes to the park. The walk is approximately two miles long and will take about two hours. Meet Saumarez Park Folk Museum. Booking essential as there are Taste Guernsey treats involved! Book your place now - £7 per head - with Gill Girard on gillgirard@yahoo.co.uk or 07781 104094. 2pm - 4/4.30pm
Enjoy one of many special festival menus at participating venues. Visit tasteguernsey.com for more information
Friday 5th September
Wednesday 3rd September Brewery Tour with Tastey Extra Randalls Brewery St Peter Port . One of the brewers will guide you through the brewery explaining how they use the equipment to turn malted barley, hops, water and yeast into Breda and Patois. After the tour you can sample a beer in the bar and as a Tastey extra enjoy a little festival snack as the tour finishes. Book your place now - £5 per head. on info@tasteguernsey.com or 07781 143667
Thursday 4th September Festival Village Opens! Noon. Tastings, demos, displays and stalls through to Saturday.
Award winning chef Evan Burrows Evan will recreate his Wessex show gold award winning dish and more. Noon in Market Square. This is one not to be missed!
Friday 5th September Tasting challenge Can you match the skills of the panel in identifying the mystery tastes. 3.30pm
Friday 5th September
The Festival takes place primarily at Market Square, St Peter Port unless shown otherwise. Download the full itinerary at tasteguernsey.com Saturday 6th September
PRO-CHEF DEMO McCormick’s demo chef Steve Love spices things up in Market Square 2pm.
Sunday 7th September
Seafront Sunday Promo demos on the CIMANDIS stage, food stalls, skills challenge, free cookery lessons and so much more at the fantastic Seafront Sunday. A food lovers dream!
Celebrity Chef at The Pavilion celebrated chef Luke Matthews from Chewton Glen previews a special menu at the Pavillion. Book now thepavilion@cwgsy.net or phone 01481 736676
Tuesday 9th September
Tour the St Sampson’s vinery which grows and exports a delicious range of herbs. Find out how they grow and which herbs are a must for the best cooks. Book now - 2 pm. tickets £5 per head (includes sample pack) info@tasteguernsey.com 07781 143667
SLICE OF LIFE 5
Guernsey’s ‘Seafront Sunday’, organised by Taste Guernsey, is the perfect place to sample a snapshot of the Island’s love of good food. From producers, to chefs, to celebrity endorsers and home enthusiasts you’ll discover a multitude of food experiences along the way. as Jon Taylor reports.
Seafront Sunday’s
Seafront Sunday’s are kindly sponsored by
T
here is one rule you must adhere to when attending a Seafront Sunday. Fast for at least a day or two before attending. I haven’t left one of these events without feeling decidedly over indulged. You start with good intentions, parking a distance away to work up an appetite and steering clear of the food stalls in the first hour or so. The trouble is the moment you glance upon a demonstration or participate in a cooking challenge the heightened sense of smell and aroma intoxicates. It’s a bit like starving yourself for a week and then winning a ticket for a trolley dash at your favourite food emporium. You’re going to love every minute of it but that walk back to the car will feel like the longest journey ever undertaken.
Seafront Sunday’s have been around for a few years now and credit must go to the new team at Taste Guernsey for creating a highly interactive and diverse event. At this particular juncture the ladies amongst us are quite excited about a certain TV chef, author and Guernsey tourism ambassador , James Strawbridge, who is fronting a demonstration during the day. Together with, a cookery school for Sueco, cocktail master classes, produce and local dishes from a fleet of stalls and the obligatory; local chef chopping furiously with a microphone poking out of his apron, the Seafront Sunday is buzzing. The first Seafront Sunday of the year is extra special. Themed around moules and mackerel, my wife will be drooling with most of her female
friends in attendance as James Strawbridge, the television chef and sustainable living expert creates a mouthwatering dish from these ingredients, enhanced with Guernsey cider and samphire. This event also has more stalls from local producers than ever before and demonstrations such as how to crab pick. I watch one demonstration with particular interest as a visiting American cruise line passenger boldly attempts to open an oyster before the hosting chef carefully takes it from him before a finger is lost forever. Interactive means just that, visitors to the event can get cooking, preparing but most importantly ‘tasting’. The barbecue challenge appeared to be the domain of the ‘Dads’ but it was their older offspring that seamed to have a greater knack
A simple ‘OH MY GOD’ leaves Simon with a wry ‘ smile and a compere aghast at the eating habits of this particular taster. ’
James Strawbridge
Tony Leck, James Strawbridge and Andrew Chantrell
Jason Hamon and Mat Bateman from Porky’s.
Simon Mackenzie
of, A. Starting the barbecue and, B. Not incinerating the ingredients. Sueco had set up a cookery school and head chef James Ferguson purposefully went about the demonstrating, instructing patiently in the process. I had managed to navigate my way through the throngs to witness a local chef bravely take on the challenge of making fresh pasta. That’s fresh pasta live in front of 80 or so onlookers. Talk about testing one’s reputation but with mic firmly pinned to his chef whites and a constant stream of questions coming from one of the compere’s for the day, Sueco’s Hugh Tabel, Simon Mackenzie sets about his challenge with gusto. Like a man possessed with the will of Italy’s finest pasta makers, Simon proves it will be ‘all right on the night’ and turns a bunch of ingredients into a magic that is macaroni. I even hear one gentleman gasp in astonishment at the results. Being a frequent attendee at
the event I am stationed directly next to the chef’s demonstration trestle table. For I know one lucky sausage is about to be asked if they would like to try the end results. That particular little porker is I. Before he can offer me a spoon, a fork is whipped from my pocket and the taste buds are soon dancing to the thrill of Roast cod, Simon’s hand-rolled macaroni, mushrooms, smoked bacon, baby gem lettuce and shaved truffle. It takes several seconds for the answer but as the mic is literally five centimeters away from my mouth, the audience doesn’t need a response as they’ve just listened to the lustful murmurings of the taster. A simple ‘OH MY GOD’ leaves Simon with a wry smile and a compere aghast at the eating habits of this particular taster. The dish was even more remarkable considering Simon’s 80 or so onlookers and the fact he was cooking on top of a small oven with two hobs and a camping stove.
Moving swiftly on from decadent demonstrations, I have time to digest the rest of the food on offer. I share a pot of ‘street’ Thai food with the wife continuing the theme of unspoken sighs and murmurings of ‘this tastes amazing’. I can’t help but join the queue for bean jar, even under 20 degree midday sun, the heat of the day doesn’t stop me from enjoying a pot of Guernsey’s winter warmer specialty served with homemade bread by a smiling Lisa Moullin whose stall is also busy. The diversity reflects the cosmopolitan nature of the Guernsey food offering. The Guernsey Botanical Trust was on hand to showcase the Island’s Victorian Walled Garden produce. Local cheese company Torteval Cheese were explaining to cruise passengers about judging at the World Cheese Awards and Hechet Farm ice-cream had the longest queue of all and looked like their herd was going to have a busy
summer keeping up with demand. The event’s showpiece is without question the theatre that is a James Strawbridge cooking demonstration. A picture of health and vitality, James throws himself into his art. Glugging on local cider and then delicately flavouring his dish. James makes cooking feel like a conductor raising the batten to a Symphony, he’s more Wayne Sleep in the kitchen than Wayne Rooney and above all he champions local ingredients. His passion and flare for demonstration make this a sold out attraction. People peak through any nook to get a glimpse of James in action. His two local sous chefs struggle to keep up with his pace but the calm manner and constant explanation of the process captivates us all. As food ambassadors go, Guernsey has struck gold it would seem. In keeping with our more dynamic approach in attracting tourists, Visit Guernsey should be commended for signing up this fresh face of TV celebrity chef. He’s already got us coverage in The Daily Telegraph, Mail on Sunday and beyond. He’s a YouTube sensation and the darling of ITV lifestyle scheduling executives so expect to see a lot more of him soon. It’s now mid-afternoon and I’ve had my fill. The cruise passengers are still making the most of their day at the Seafront Sunday but we’re off. The inevitable climb up the hill to the car is harder than expected. My wife however, is floating up following an inspiring display of cooking by James. For those who haven’t tried a Seafront Sunday then it is a must now the new TasteGuernsey regime has injected some life into proceedings. The final event is on September 1st and coincides with the weekend long Taste Guernsey Festival. Tasteguernsey.com for more information
Taste Guernsey When did you first get interested in cooking? Graham Thoume I first got interested in cooking when I met my wife Karen. She was the ‘cook’ in the relationship and got me interested. Karen’s grandmother lived in India for many years and she made a mean crab curry so that’s when my love of Indian cuisine started. TG What was the first dish you remember cooking? GT My wife’s chicken liver pate – I still make it now! photo by Chris George
The Taste Guernsey team are very grateful to their Festival sponsors ABN AMRO whose generous support has helped develop a food festival that Guernsey can be proud of. Taste caught up with Managing Director of Banking at ABN AMRO, Graham Thoume, who is a self confessed foodie and would-be chef.
ABN Amro’s Graham Thoume and his colleagues are regulars at the Seafront Sunday. Graham prepares a Paella for the crowds which raises funds for local charities.
TG Do you cook at home? GT Yes, I cook every day if I can. One of the advantages of working so close to Waitrose is that I can pop in on the way home, see what’s available and work out what I would like to cook from there. TG What would be your desert island meal? GT My desert island meal right now would be freshly grilled Guernsey lobster with Guernsey butter! TG You’ve been “head chef” at lots of ABN AMRO staff events – tell us about some of your creations. GT We have our annual staff barbecue (which replaced the summer ball 4 years ago) and it is still going strong. I cook for all the staff barbecues with Andy Graham (one of the Management Team) and the other Management Team members help run a free bar. The barbecues are held at Paul Martin’s property – in his field. We always do a hog roast. People refuse to let us stop doing a pig but I would prefer to do something different. We also offer Seafood Paella and Jambalaya cooked in our big Paella pans! TG How do you integrate your love of food into your role as Managing Director? GT I don’t know that I do integrate it. The simple fact is I am always hungry, I’ve always loved food and it is never far from where I am! TG Do your staff like getting involved? GT Yes, our staff particularly enjoy being involved in the Sea Front Sunday event – at the last one we served 160 portions of Jambalaya to raise funds for the Chernobyl Children Life Line charity. TG What are you most looking forward to about this year’s Taste Guernsey Festival? GT The atmosphere, it is wonderful when the Island’s foodies gather together for three days to talk about nothing other than food. I really enjoyed it last year and am looking forward to this one.
Porky’s TASTE GUERNSEY ARTISAN PRODUCER OF THE YEAR 2014
Jason Hamon and Matt Bateman from Porky’s. Photography by Stacey Upson
TERMS OF ENDEARMENT _
The best thing about rearing pigs is, of course, the pork, but the companionship runs the meat a pretty close second. Jason Hamon and Matt Bateman have been good husbands to their drift of pigs. Jon Taylor reports.
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recently met two of the principals at the food haven that is Forest Stores. Jason Hamon is the Store’s butcher while Matt is the shop floor manager and together they formed Porky’s back in 2008 bringing breeding stock from the UK including two sows and one bore. Seven years on and two breeding lotharios, 10 sows and 100s of pigs have become the scale of operation today. Following an award from Taste Guernsey as Artisan Producer of the Year in 2014, I visited one of their pig farming sites to find out how things have progressed. Considering Porky’s is a ‘sideline’, according to Matt and Jason, the scale of operation is
very impressive. Following a short drive from Forest Stores we arrive at one of their several pig farm sites. This one being in St Peters. From their place of work to their place of hobby in less than five minutes. On arrival the scale of operation is grander than I imagined. Spread across a large field in the most picturesque setting is the first of Porky’s pig farm sites and it is a bustle of snorting, grunting and sniffling pigs awaiting their feed. The tails are wagging frantically as Jason and Matt work the many paddocks talking to their entire congregation as they go about the feed process as if chattering to the many customers who frequent Forest Stores.
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Matt and Jason tell me that pigs are the most entertaining, life-affirming and intelligent creatures that have ever had the misfortune to taste utterly delectable in a frying pan. According to a recent report in Farming Times it would appear Porky’s is part of a growing trend in the UK. More and more people are waking up to the joy of pigs, with the report suggesting that amateur pigkeeping has shot up by 40 per cent since the likes of Gordon Ramsay and Hugh FearnleyWhittingstall began advocating the purchase of a piglet as being crucial to middle-aged contentment. The thing I have learned in my short experience with the
Matt and Jason tell me that pigs are the most entertaining, life-affirming and intelligent creatures that have ever had the misfortune to taste utterly delectable in a frying pan.
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Porky’s pigs is that they all appear to have unique personalities. The Gloucester Old Spots appear inquisitive and adventurous; one in particular sniffs the electric fence to see if it has been switched off. Jason says they do give him the run around. The Large Whites are leaner and seem friendly, one in particular is after a scratch and I ably oblige only for me to be toppled by the shear determination of this particular pig demanding I scratch the exact part of his belly that requires attention. Others are lazier, reclining in the sun and waiting for the adolescent pigs to over indulge too quickly on feed so they can take their time and feast at leisure. All of Porky’s pigs are literally a breed apart. “Our pigs are all rare breed varieties and so they carry more fat. This means greater flavour,” explains Jason. Jason and Matt’s pig husbandry
mean these animals have a happy life. They feed off the nutritious ground and are free to bask in the sun for as long as their hearts desire. Jason and Matt explain that the business of keeping pigs is a family affair and all corners of their respective’s get involved. “My children enjoy going to see them regularly. I was very direct from the outset that the pigs would be killed and eaten, and they accepted this without so much as a murmur, so when the pigs suddenly disappeared there were no tearful scenes or recriminations,” says Jason. Although pig’s look as if they should be a tremendous effort to keep, provided you have a good shelter and decent fencing, Matt says they are very low maintenance. “We have invested in the field and rent other sites. The cost is really in
pigs are “allOur rare breed
varieties and they carry more fat. This means greater flavour
”
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A full-grown pig is the size of a small horse, very destructive and extremely expensive to feed. So, unless you are very rich, very eccentric and either want to go into breeding or pig-racing, there is no way you will want a fullgrown sow rummaging through the herbaceous border.
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the fencing. Our skill sets mean we can be sustainable farmers. Nothing that leaves our care is wasted. We produce sausages, pork pies, sausage rolls and of course the obligatory chops and bacon. Every part of the animal is utilised,” says Matt. I fully appreciate why Jason and Matt do what they do. The rewards of rearing and sustaining this sort of farming is certainly a more enjoyable hobby in my eyes than a round of golf or a jaunt to Herm on the new Sunseeker. However, anyone who is even vaguely thinking of keeping pigs should be without a shred of doubt in their minds from the very outset that eventually the pigs must be killed. A full-grown pig is the size of a small horse, very destructive and extremely expensive to feed. So, unless you are very rich, very eccentric and either want to go into breeding or pig-racing, there is no way you will want a full-grown sow rummaging through the herbaceous border. I couldn’t do it. I love animals and avoid any thought of how they may have got to my plate. I cried at the endearment of Warhorse, Lassie, Babe and even Johnny Morris used to set me off so no chance of me having the reserve of character to farm livestock. So some might say the argument would be don’t get too attached to the animals in your care. Quite frankly, seeing Jason and Matt’s affection for their pigs makes that seem impossible. What’s more, Matt says if you don’t make an effort to get to know them, you’ll be missing out on an amazingly life-affirming experience. “Above all, Jason and I respect our pigs. And we can eat them with a clear conscience because of, not despite, that fact,” says Matt. If you would like to experience the succulent taste of Porky’s then Forest Stores is the place to go.
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Christies The Swan Inn The Boathouse Villa Crabby Jacks
IT’S A FAMILY AFFAIR _
There are five restaurants in Guernsey that form part of a family that has undergone a vibrant change for the better. Taste caught up with Christophe Gaultier to discuss his approach to running some of the Island’s most popular dining venues.
H
e’s a keen rugby fan so you can forgive me for coining a rugby metaphor for the last twelve months in the life of Christophe Gaultier. He has been ‘driving forward’ a revolution of change. Christophe has overriding responsibility for five of Guernsey’s most popular dining experiences. Christies, Villa, The Boathouse, The Swan Inn and Crabby Jacks all fall under his care and attention. He takes great pride in his restaurants, to such an extent that in each he leaves a personal welcome card that offers his personal contact details just in case you would like to talk to him about your dining experience. How many restaurateurs are comfortable leaving mobile or email details for public access? As captain, Christophe acknowledges that his business must adapt to fierce competition and develop speed and
flexibility so what better way to describe his ethos than by coining a metaphor from his favourite sport. Christophe believes that the family of restaurants under his care has moved their business practices from traditional sequential phase of operation where everything has a place and you are entrusted to do your job without fuss. His approach to management is the mirror of the man’s beloved game, involving a team in constant interaction, multidisciplinary, whose members’ work together from start to finish. The team practices iteractive experimentation, and overlap across several phases. This approach means harmonies can be built between all those who deliver the customer experience. “I have been in Guernsey for a decade and more and I have come to recognise that to be successful here you must create
a team ethic. This is not simply from the people we employ but through the suppliers we work with, and most importantly, the customers we serve,” said Christophe. One happy team and it appears to be working. Furthermore, there are many examples of how Christophe’s approach is reaping positive benefits. Example one: Placing personal business style cards in all of his establishments might appear to some to be a gimmick but in reality he’s asking customers to keep him informed of what they think of the standards his team are providing. It allows him a two-way dialogue with customers because as hard as he tries, he cannot be in all of the establishments at once. His team has the same approach to the tripadvisor.com phenomena, responding to comments as soon as they are posted online. I
hasten to add almost all are positive but the managers of each establishment enthusiastically respond with the charm in which they run their own ‘babies’ as Christophe refers to them. “No not me, the managers call them that. Each has adopted a sense of ownership and with it responsibility for the high standards we demand.” Example two of how teamwork is succeeding is Christophe’s approach to supplier relationships. “When we took over the business we had bridges to build with suppliers but we have worked with them very closely and their loyalty to us is returned in kind. We are conscious of price but we do not go to the cheapest supplier. We have built excellent relations with our suppliers for the good of all,” explained Christophe. Christophe is a bit of a French paradox. On first impression, your instinct is to characterise him as your
quintessential Gallic hospitality professional all passion and gesticulation but on further reflection you realise he is a quick witted, well considered and most of all calm and engaged leader. There’s not a hint of arrogance more a strong confidence in his own abilities and ambitions to do the job required. Christophe left France to discover the world. He left with little. Not even a basic grasp of English but through force of character he quickly found himself working in the higher echelons of the hospitality sector. He went from ‘Five Star’ hotel opulence in London to the same in Ireland. He ran Christies sister restaurant in Dublin before moving to Guernsey to take on the challenge of managing the rejuvenated Swan Inn. In time he took complete control of
Chris Radford and Christophe Gaultier, the driving force behind the new family philosophy at Christies Group.
Christophe (right) and his executive chef Chris Radford, who has been an integral part of the group for 15 years, are passionate about how they can create a unique set of restaurants. “Chris is someone I respect immensely. Together we have some big ideas for the future,” Said Christophe. proceedings and purchased the popular venue for himself and wife Briony to run. This meteoric rise was capped last year when he merged The Swan Inn with the other restaurants in the Christies Group and became managing director to all. You’ll still find him welcoming patrons to the Swan but
Clockwise from top left: Villa’s manager, Natalia. Christies stunning menu. Seafood success at The Boathouse and time for dessert at the same venue.
his energy has stimulated all of the Group’s establishments. Crabby Jacks in particular has seen a marked change from the previous ownership. “I have plans for Crabby’s but we’ve focused on getting the basics absolutely right. Ina, our manager has been a big part of that but the whole team there has created a great atmosphere for our customers,” said Christophe. Christophe is also fond of his team of chef’s, waxing lyrical about each suiting the venue they work in. “You need to be a certain type of chef to run a family restaurant and we have that in place now at Crabby’s. The menu is focused on great ingredients and I’d like to think we’ve put the fun back into this fantastic establishment,” said Christophe. The Crabby’s menu is a who’s who of family favourites each dish with a quirk or twist of humour that creates a unique dining experience and whereas this particular venue is enjoying a renaissance this summer, Christies, in the Lower Pollet, arguably Guernsey’s most significant dining venue of the last decade or so, is very much business as usual. “Christies is our flagship and as such we have some exciting developments there in the years to come. The place has retained its buzz and I believe our customer service is second to none. Our food is always of a good quality, well priced and most importantly it has remained a very friendly place to socialize,” said Christophe. A short stroll up the street from
Christies is Villa, an authentic Italian inspired Pizza and Pasta venue that is popular with everyone. “We get families, couples, business diners and groups of people because we have created a welcoming restaurant with a unique menu experience and great value for money,” said Natalia, Villa’s manager. “Christophe has put the vibrancy into the group and I certainly feel like we are creating a family atmosphere. There’s friendly rivalry between us but that’s because we’re all proud of what we’re achieving in each restaurant,” said Natalia. The final piece of the family jigsaw is the Boathouse on the Crown Pier. This is a firm favourite of my family. In winter when the grey skies descend it is a great place to shelter from the elements. There is an atmosphere of traditional Parisian bistro about the place and during the summer it becomes a vibrant venue where French yachties, locals and tourists worship the place. The world outside bustles along outside but somehow the atmosphere in and around the restaurant has a continental breeze. The menu starts early with a range of breakfasts but the most popular dish seems to be the traditional Moules Frites for lunch and the obligatory chilled white wine as the boats potter in and out of the Careening Hard. The kids love it for the Boys and Gulls! Children’s Menu or for the Galettes and Crepes. As with any family, standards are something that must be instilled by
those who are the principal carers. And just like it’s nice to be acknowledged by others for raising your children to be well-mannered and good citizens. It’s also preferable to be recognised as a restaurateur by your peers. When Christophe was awarded accreditation by a Michelin inspector for The Swan Inn he knew little about the achievement. ‘A lady came and ate in the pub just like anyone. When she had finished she asked to have a word. That was when she said she was a Michelin inspector. I was shocked,’ said Christophe. “The inspector was very pleased with everything and thought it was a beautiful traditional pub with an amazing atmosphere.” There was a further secret inspection of the upstairs restaurant by the guide, but Christophe was unaware of Michelin’s attention. “Yes it’s fantastic to be recognised but our team won the award not me or the venue. Without them on board you simply have a group of venues and not a family of restaurants,” said Christophe. So it was the members of his increasingly harmonious team that receive the plaudits but perhaps most impressive is the fact Michelin was tipped off by the very people Christophe believes are the most important part of the family, the customer.
“Without them on board you simply have a group of venues and not a family of restaurants”
IT’S A FAMILY AFFAIR _
LOCATION OPENING HOURS Le Pollet, Monday - Saturday St Peter Port, 8.00am till 12.30am Guernsey, Sunday GY1 1WQ 9.00am till 12.30am RESERVATIONS tel: 01481 726624 email: manager@christies.gg LOCATION OPENING HOURS 35 Le Pollet, Open Tuesday to St Peter Port, Saturday from 12:00 Guernsey, GY1 1WQ RESERVATIONS tel: 01481 711162 Email: manager@villarestaurant.gg LOCATION OPENING HOURS Victoria Pier, Tuesday - Saturday St Peter Port, 10am - 9:30pm Guernsey, Sunday GY1 3YB 10am - 4pm RESERVATIONS tel: 01481 700061 email: manager@theboathouse.gg LOCATION OPENING HOURS St Julian’s Ave Mon - Sat: St Peter Port, 12:00 - 21:30 Guernsey, Sun: 12:00 - 18:00 GY1 1WA RESERVATIONS tel: 01481 728969 Email: theswaninn@cwgsy.net LOCATION OPENING HOURS Vazon Bay, Monday - Saturday Castel, 12pm - 9pm Guernsey, Sunday GY5 7BF 12pm - 5pm RESERVATIONS tel: 01481 257489 email: manager@crabbyjacks.gg
Christies
christies.gg
Villa
facebook.com/ villarestaurantguernsey
The Boathouse
boathouse.gg
The Swan Inn
facebook.com/theswan.inn
Crabby Jacks
crabbyjacks.gg
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Change the scales Katherine Paine of Haut Maison dispels any myth that the artisanal pursuit of making genuinely local produce should be catergorised as ‘slow food production’. There is nothing ‘slow’ about this particular producer as Jon Taylor discovered.
B
ottling fine fruit liqueurs is the principal purpose of Katherine and Stephen Paine’s Haut Maison business. Following an hour or so in their company, I would recommend bottling their energy. The romantic idyll that is making your own liqueurs from fruit grown in the garden fits into the whole slow food, artisan trend of home production. Imagine Farmers Markets and gifts for friends and you have the archetypal image. People are more interested in buying food from small local producers so when it turns into a fully fledged business can the ‘home’ authenticity be sustained? Katherine and Stephen Paine still make liqueurs at their home at Haut Maison in the Vale even though they’re stocking the shelves of leading supermarkets. The fruit to make the liqueurs like raspberries, blackcurrants and damsons are foraged from their gardens and the whole process is still taking place in the home. The Paine’s arrived in Guernsey back in 2006 with a passion for the island. They sailed in on a boat, found a retirement project, having sold a successful French Import business in London, and set about making themselves at home. La Maison de Haut became their place of residence and soon became their place of work. So much for a quiet retirement project. They fell in love with La Maison
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de Haut the moment they saw it. The house is a big traditional Guernsey farmhouse (its origins dating back to the 13thC), with a dower cottage, a barn and ruined pigsty, surrounded by 11 acres of fields and orchards. The couple developed it as a smallholding: restoring orchards, replanting hedgerows, and clearing snippets of land formerly considered ‘useless’ to establish a soft fruit vinery, small livestock paddock and large kitchen garden. The pigsty was turned into a workshop and the barn converted to a hygienic production room. What impresses the most is the fact, bar a few seasonal helping hands, everything is run by the couple. From picking to bottling. In fact Stephen eptomises this attitude by doing everything he possibly can, even fibre glassing the bottling plant. Stephen is part chemist, part grower and partly deaf one would assume considering Katherine’s enthusiasm for conversation. The warm welcome I receive from the lady of the house makes me believe she won’t take offence to this last comment. Katherine is the energy behind the success of Haut Maison, from marketing to sales and a whole load of forward planning (liqueurs can take up to a year to be ready). The dynamic works and as such Haut Maison have built up quite a following over the
last couple of years. Guernsey chefs have started introducing the liqueurs into restaurant menus and cocktail lists have been created with the sole purpose of experimenting with Stephen and Katherine’s finest. These primarily include liqueurs such as Loganberry, Raspberry, Damson Gin, Crème de Cassis and Espresso and Horseradish Vodkas. The Walter White in Stephen means he is a perfectionist. My favourite is his Espresso Vodka, which is a thing of pure genius. On opening the bottle you’re transported to an aroma of bustling Verona coffee house but the liquor doesn’t smash into the back of your throat as expected. It’s a smooth syrupy drink that has a caffeinated kick to it that is an eye opener, but a gentle one. Pour it over vanilla ice-cream or top up a Baileys for a real treat. The fruit liqueurs are also popular and selling well on the shelves at your local food store (Tapenade, CO-OP, Forest Stores, Alliance, Bucktrouts, Sommelier and Randalls). The raspberry Liqueur is creamy with a nice sweet and sour balance. It’s a popular dinner party aperitif in the Taylor household with an added infusion of ginger within a martini. Since the day he arrived Stephen has been experimenting with making alcoholic beverages: cider and perry from the property’s old orchard trees,
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then fruit and vegetable wines from the kitchen garden and new orchards. Thankfully for us fruit liqueurs became his forte. He decided that four fruits should form the major backbone of Haut Maison’s range: raspberries, damsons, loganberries and blackcurrants, while he still dabbles with other fruits such as boysenberries. Stephen has a hand on it all: from planting, cultivating, picking, testing, tasting, blending, and bottling as well as fibre-glassing and welding. On the rare days off they do spend together, the couple enjoy the short Rib ride to Carteret for lunch and the chance to practice the language. When in Guernsey, Katherine is usually the one who strays further from the house. Katherine’s ‘Haut Maison’ branded Fiat 500 makes daily trips to town, popping up in front of one outlet or another. It is with a sense of irony that this particular dynamo, in calm control of all she purveys, doesn’t always get co-operation from everyone under her care. Katherine’s chickens or ‘proper little ladies’ have been known to cause
her no end of mischief. She’s also the house bee-keeper and comedy reigns every time a swarm of bees are reported at the nearby Delancy Park. Sightings of a manic being in bee keeping gear, swearing blue murder as she attempts to capture a teasing swarm, are rare but has been witnessed by her neighbours. If her list of duties weren’t long enough, Katherine takes control of making preserves and cordials from fruits not used for liqueurs (such as mulberries). She also sells fresh fruits and vegetables to locals and restaurant chefs. What started as a retirement project has turned into a fully fledged passion for a business that was named after their home. La Maison de Haut was shortened to ‘Haut Maison’ (meaning ‘high house’) to reflect a traditional Guernsey name, as well as their origins in the French food business where such an expression is often used to denote a ‘small-scale’, local artisan company (usually family owned and run) making high quality culinary products. Perhaps it’s time to change the scales!
Balance checked. Be app-y! Our Mobile app keeps you up to date by letting you check your balance whenever you need to Want us to show you how? We’re app-y to help Call in to any branch natwestinternational.com/helpfulbanking Like NatWest CI on Facebook Follow us on Twitter @NatWestGsy The Royal Bank of Scotland International Limited trading as NatWest (NatWest). Registered Office: P.O. Box 64, Royal Bank House, 71 Bath Street, St. Helier, Jersey JE4 8PJ. Regulated by the Jersey Financial Services Commission. Guernsey business address: PO Box 62, Royal Bank Place, 1 Glategny Esplanade, St. Peter Port, Guernsey, GY1 4BQ. Regulated by the Guernsey Financial Services Commission and licensed under the Banking Supervision (Bailiwick of Guernsey) Law, 1994, as amended, the Insurance Managers and Insurance Intermediaries (Bailiwick of Guernsey) Law, 2002, and the Protection of Investors (Bailiwick of Guernsey) Law, 1987, as amended. NatWest is a participant in the Guernsey Banking Deposit Compensation Scheme. The scheme offers protection for ‘qualifying deposits’ up to £50,000, subject to certain limitations. The maximum total amount of compensation is capped at £100,000,000 in any 5 year period. Details are available from: Website: www.dcs.gg. Telephone: +44 (0)1481 722756. Post: P.O. Box 380, St Peter Port, GY1 3FY. Deposits made in a Guernsey Branch will not be covered by any equivalent scheme in any jurisdiction outside of the Bailiwick of Guernsey. Under the scheme(s) customers are entitled to make only one claim per licensed entity regardless of the number of brands or trading names contained within that licensed entity and customers are entitled to make one claim only per licensed entity in the jurisdiction where the deposits are held. Therefore as NatWest brand is operated by RBS International it is not licensed in its own right. A person with a deposit in NatWest and a deposit in RBS International would thus only be entitled to make one claim. Further details of these schemes are available on request. NatWest is a member of The Royal Bank of Scotland Group. The Royal Bank of Scotland plc - Registered in Scotland No 90312. Registered office: 36 St Andrew Square, Edinburgh EH2 2YB. The Royal Bank of Scotland plc is authorised by the Prudential Regulation Authority and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority and the Prudential Regulation Authority. The latest report and accounts are available at www.investors.rbs.com. NatWest places funds with other parts of its Group and thus its financial standing is linked to the Group. Depositors may wish to form their own view on the financial standing of NatWest and the Group based on publicly available information. The latest report and accounts are available at www.natwestinternational.com/financial-results. Calls may be recorded. Network charges may apply.
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INTERNATIONAL CHEF EXCHANGE _
Take two chefs – one in Guernsey and one in Brighton, and invite them to swap kitchens and create a menu showcasing their favourite local produce. Top local chef Tony Leck and Brighton based Semone Bonner took up the International Chef Exchange Challenge. Taste magazine was at The Pavilion Restaurant to find out more Tony Leck is known to be cool and calm when put under pressure – be it in the kitchen or in the media spotlight, so the top local chef was not at all phased by being flung into the kitchen of The Ginger Pig in Brighton, armed with the challenge of presenting a Guernsey feast for more than 60 Brighton foodies. “It was fantastic, it went very well”, is about as much as Tony will say, but the smile on his face to
When Brighton and Guernsey swapped their finest
have pulled off the latest in a line of International Chef Challenges, said it all. ‘The Pavilion’ restaurant chef had devised a menu to show off the wide variety of local produce he uses on a daily basis. He and his right hand man loaded up crates full of delicious ingredients and headed over to ‘The Ginger Pig’ in Brighton to cook up a mouthwatering meal featuring some of Guernsey’s finest fare.
Says Tony; “We took over Guernsey crab and sea bass, beef Carpaccio from Meadow Court Farm, cheese from Torteval, and cider from Rocquette and of course the renowned Guernsey butter.” “Everything went down very well and I know Ray Watts will be pleased to know that his beef was particularly well received. The diners also enjoyed the scallops and mushrooms, in fact everything worked to perfection.”
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We took over Guernsey crab and sea bass, beef Carpaccio from Meadow Court Farm, cheese from Torteval, and cider from Rocquette and of course the renowned Guernsey butter.
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Photography by Julia Claxton
A few days later it was the turn of Semone Bonner, head chef of ‘The Ginger Pig’, to take over in the kitchen of The Pavilion Restaurant in Guernsey to create a Sussex flavored ‘barbeque’ menu for a discerning Guernsey audience.
The Guernsey and Brighton exchange challenge was filmed for a new Channel 8 show which will be screened later this year and both Tony and Semone agreed that the experience had been a memorable and successful one.
“It was good to be able to come to Guernsey and see all the suppliers of the food Tony brought with him, and you can certainly be proud of the quality of these ingredients. Everyone who attended the event in ~Brighton enjoyed the meal and it certainly
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Everything went down very well and I know Ray Watts will be pleased to know that his beef was particularly well received. The diners also enjoyed the scallops and mushrooms, in fact everything worked to perfection.
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put Guernsey on the food map in the Hove and Brighton area,” said Semone. The International Chef Exchange which is run by the popular Brighton & Hove Food and Drink Festival aims to promote gastronomic and wine tourism between reciprocal quality destinations around the world, share best practice between chefs in the hospitality industry and create commercial and export opportunities for regional food and drink producers. Originally from the English Lake District, Leck has made Guernsey his home for the last 25 years and is driven by the diverse array of fresh seasonal produce that is available within the island and surrounding waters, believing that quality produce is best cooked simply with little fuss. A keen advocate of Guernsey produce Leck was awarded ‘Guernsey Ambassador of the Year’ Photography by Julia Claxton
for showcasing Guernsey food. Having previously received the ‘Outstanding Achievement Award’, Tony is now the present Chairman of ‘Taste Guernsey’ a collective group funded by the States of Guernsey Culture & Leisure working to promote and stage food and drink events within Guernsey. He is also the author of ‘The Pavilion on a Plate’ which gives cookery fans the chance to sample and create his robust flavours and signature cooking style at home.
Photography by Stacey Upson
Seafresh Guernsey
Guernsey’s Traditional Fishmongers Located on the Castle Emplacement, St Peter Port, just a few metres from the centre of Guernsey’s fishing industry and run by very experienced local fishermen including Andy Le Prevost who have over half a century of sea faring between them. Together, they have transformed the business into Guernsey’s favourite traditional fishmonger. Only the freshest fish is allowed on Seafresh Guernsey’s stalls. And what a selection of magnificent seafood awaits the lucky ones who venture through its doors. Poissons frais de Guernesey, Bass, Bream, Plaice, Brill, Red Gurnard, Red Mullet, Mackerel, Monkish, Mullet, Pollock, Sole, Turbot and Whiting. They also sell King Prawns, Mussels, Prawns, Scallops and have live shellfish tanks. Fruits de Mer freshly cooked Guernsey Crabs, freshly cooked Lobsters. Freshly dressed Crab, freshly prepared Crab meat, seafood sauces and much more. 2014 Customer Service Awards winners Seafresh was chosen as Guernsey’s very best in customer service excellence, and the winners for 2014 was announced as Bernie Le Gallez, Head Fishmonger and Manager and his team at Seafresh in front of 300 onlookers in Market Square this summer. Bernie said ‘We are all ecstatic. To know that our customers have voted for us and to be recognised in this way is beyond belief. We have the best customers in the world.’
Seafresh Guernsey’s traditional fishmonger
T: 722707
From tide to table Top island chefs know who to call to make sure that only the freshest fish will feature on their daily menus. Taste set an early alarm clock and headed out to sea to help haul in the early morning catch then watched its route from Seafresh to the specials board at a top St Peter Port restaurant.
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The dawn is just breaking over the harbour wall as the fishermen unload their catch into the hands of the team at Seafresh. By lunchtime the day’s catch will be on the tables of some of the island’s top restaurants. It is literally from tide to table in a matter of hours. Andy Le Prevost took over the company in 2008. He explains that it had been run as the Guernsey Fishermen’s Trading Company but Andy saw the potential to develop the business into something amazing and he has done so. “I was a fisherman for 30 years and I knew that there was something the island lacked in our industry. That was for the fish to be taken straight from the pier and straight to the chef. There was a wholesale business in operation but a lot of the fish was sent off island. Seafresh developed a business model that works directly with the chefs so that they know what fresh fish is available that day and they can plan their menus accordingly.” Seafresh also provide all the fresh fish for Waitrose in both Guernsey and Jersey. “We are proud of that as it shows they recognise how we are able to provide them with the best quality fish, fresh from the sea. Our fish are primarily line caught, which again ensures that fish are landed in the best possible condition. For us, quality is everything. This is also the most sustainable method to ensure fish stocks are protected.” The company has 50 fishermen who supply them on a daily basis. “They bring us all sorts of fish from bass, ray and turbot to Pollock and lots of shellfish. We also insist on certain practises on board to ensure that the fish go straight from the sea onto ice so they are kept fresh and pristine. Fish can be with the chef within three hours and we enjoy the personal interaction with our customers.” This has proved so successful that Seafresh received recognition for their excellence by winning best customer service and best customer experience in the recent Customer Service awards. “We have a growing reputation for our customer service and we do have plans to expand in the future but at present we are happy to build upon our success. We feel privileged to work alongside top restaurant chefs to ensure they get the best fish, lobsters, crab and scallops and it gives me personal satisfaction to see our products on those menus.” Andy has a special relationship with Nello’s restaurant and says he speaks with the manager and head chef, Tim Vidamour on a daily basis. “He likes to know what the fishermen are bringing in that morning and he enjoys creating amazing seafood and shellfish platters. He also has a wide range of signature seafood dishes and all are provided by us. It’s a good relationship based on both companies wanting to provide top quality fish and seafood in the island.” At a time when many businesses are struggling, Seafresh is going from strength to strength. “We provide the best service to the best chefs and it’s a combination that works very well in promoting local seafood.”
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Bringing home the finest seafood Guernsey seas have to offer. The team from Seafresh.
Seafresh Guernsey’s traditional fishmonger
T: 722707
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FAMILY MATTERS _
FOR more than three decades Da Nello’s has been one of the island’s best loved and most popular restaurants and the family run establishment remains committed to providing top quality cuisine and excellent customer service
DA NELLO TELEPHONE
721552
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Tim has been involved in the business for more than 30 years and worked alongside the former owner, Nello Ciotti, who he said, over the years, became a mentor and a close friend.
Front L-R: Tim Vidamour, his wife Fernanda, Manuel Texeira helping Nello Ciotti with his coat, Rivelino Rodrigues, his wife Isabel and Nello’s wife Della.
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t’s nearly noon and the glasses have been polished, the daily catch has arrived from Seafresh and the chef is busy finalising his special board. There is the usual mix of brill,turbot, sea bass and scallops and of course lobster to provide the signature lobster linguine daily special. Just hours ago these fish had been line caught just off Herm and they will be presented fresh and delicious for the lunchtime guests. Tim Vidamour, director and head chef at Da Nellos is talking to staff and looking ahead to another busy day in the kitchen that is open all week long. His work is his life and he is passionate about creating wonderful dishes and never tires of trying out new ideas – but knows the combination of fresh produce
and simple, yet professional cooking techniques, have customers coming back time and time again. Tim has been involved in the business for more than 30 years and worked alongside the former owner, Nello Ciotti, who he said, over the years, became a mentor and a close friend. “ I was only 19 and had worked at various restaurants including Nino’s and the Steak and Stilton, both run by ltalian managers. Sadly they are no longer in existence but I did learn a lot as a young chef. I had worked part time for Nello and when he heard that I was planning to move to France he invited me for a chat. Nello gave me the chance to come and work with him full time, which was an amazing opportunity for a very Young chef
at the time. We worked very well together and became friends as well as business partners and continued to do so until Nello went into semiretirement. You have to run your business with a passion and that is how Da Nello’s became such a successful restaurant. We loved working as a team and enjoying the business we had created. He was like a brother to me and a very good mentor.” He explains that Nello taught him the importance of keeping things simple. “We buy only the very best and let the food and flavours do the rest. We pride ourselves on our menu with lots of fresh fish and steaks, and while we offer great sauces, our plain grilled or pan fried fish and steaks can stand alone. The secret is simplicity
and using only the best and freshest produce.” The décor is contemporary yet classicly Italian with lots of booths and discreet tables. But the new conservatory area that was added a few years ago at the rear of the restaurant, allows the premises to accommodate 86 people. Customers return time and time again and do so because Da Nello’s offer consistently great food and personal customer service . “We are a family here, it is run as a family and we have worked together for many years so we know what works and how to give our diners the very best experience”, says Tim. “ I am now bringing on my right hand man and co-director Rivelino Rodrigues and we work alongside our front of house manager and third director Manuel Teixeira, his wife
Isabel and my wife, Fernanda, who I met when she came to work here in the 1970’s.” He says the restaurant is his life and he enjoys working alongside his wife and his staff every day keeping standards high and sourcing only the best foods possible. “Because we have such a good reputation for seafood and have many popular signature dishes and I am in contact with Andy Le Prevost at Seafresh on a daily basis to see what the fishermen are bringing in that day. Very often his assistant Bernie will call us up at 9 p.m to tell us about a special shipment due in so we can plan the menu for the next day.” As Taste prepared to tour the kitchen Fernanda was placing a huge bouquet of long stemmed cream roses onto a champagne bucket on the bar. Regular diners will know that
every woman who leaves Da Nellos is presented with a rose, it is a thoughtful and romantic tradition which has survived over the years. “Nello introduced these special touches and we like to continue with them”, says Tim. Da Nello’s restaurant caters for a wide range of discerning diners – from young couples wanting a romantic night out to businessman indulging in a light lunch. “Everyone is welcome here, we can accommodate children and provide small portions for them, we welcome large groups and family parties. They all share a love of good food and good company and so do we.”
DA NELLO TELEPHONE
721552
“ I am now bringing on my right hand man and co-director Rivelino Rodrigues and we work alongside our front of house manager and third director Manuel Teixeira and my wife, Fernanda, who I met when she came to work here in the 1970’s.”
Da Nello’s have been wotking with Seafresh for 35 years and talk on a daily basis.
Seafood fantasies and a dessert to complement from Da Nello’s. Clockwise from top left: Aragosta Citronella (Grilled local lobster in a lemongrass ginger and garlic, Guernsey butter sauce. Avacado Crab bound with mayonaise and dill. Bavorais Tricolore (chocolate coffee and vanilla) bavorais wih mango coulis. Pasta Nero Co Cappesante (Black ink Pasta with local scallops and Guernsey Cream). Grilled di Pesce (chargrilled local fish (Brill, Bass, Scallops) with tomato risotto.
Moulin Huet Tearoom & Garden
FOOD ARTISTRY 5
During his trip in the summer of 1883 to the Island, Renoir painted about fifteen views of the bay and the beach of Moulin Huet. If he arrived today he would probably paint fifty and more such is the attraction now available a short stroll up from the beach. Moulin Huet Tearoom and Garden is a culinary treat and as Taste Guernsey discovered, the new proprietor is a very talented artist in her own right. If your idea of heaven is classic Victoria sponge with fresh guernsey cream and homemade blackberry jam (the berries having been picked straight from the garden on the day), or perhaps homemade potted crab with a hint of chilli served with brown toast, or even seriously stodgy courgette cake then Moulin Huet tearoom and garden is your mecca! Taste Guernsey headed down the cliff path to sample the food artistry of Susanna Storey. Having taken over the tearoom in 2014, Susanna has transformed it into a dreamy food lovers respite with a stylish flare from a bygone era.
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My favourite food to make is cakes, if I had to narrow that down it would be cakes made with vegetables, think carrot cake and then keep going!
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Jason Hamon and Mat Bateman from Porky’s.
We don’t have a menu as such, “it’s basically a daily selection of sandwiches, salads, quiche and a soup (not to mention a good spread of cakes!) that changes depending on what we find locally and what’s in season, we do always try to have fresh crab though which is very popular.
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Tell us about a typical day running a beach tea room? No two days are the same! You meet a lot of different people because of all the visitors and walkers - the only thing you can predict is that daily someone will come in for the first time and gasp at the view. What’s the most popular item on the menu? We don’t have a menu as such, it’s basically a daily selection of sandwiches, salads, quiche and a soup (not to mention a good spread of cakes!) that changes depending on what we find locally and what’s in season, we do always try to have fresh crab though which is very popular. Our Moulin Huet crab sarnie which is dressed in a homemade sweet chilli and ginger jam and comes with fresh coriander and rocket sells well when the sun is out! What food inspires you? Fresh, simple, unpretentious food inspires me -- meat is often over rated. What on the menu is your
personal favourite? My favourite food to make is cakes, if I had to narrow that down it would be cakes made with vegetables, think carrot cake and then keep going! Parsnip is my favourite, but it’s great because there’s pretty much always a vegetable in season to bake a cake with the whole way through the year. What are your culinary influences? Yotam Ottolenghi is my favourite chef and he really inspires me. His food is always so fresh and exciting - he does some amazing things with vegetables! His cafes in the UK have the most beautiful and tasty looking salad bars on the planet. How did you become a national cake champion? I won a competition in the Times for a jubilee themed cake and I made very large union jack one big enough to feed a street party. I used fresh strawberries and blueberries to colour and flavour the cake.
When did you first realise food was in your DNA? I think I’ve just always enjoyed food and enjoyed understanding where it’s come from; I was a prolific cake bowl scraper from a young age and I loved walking round my grandads herb garden tasting different leaves, I still remember how strong the smell of basil was in my grandparents kitchen. You write your own Blog tell us about it? I did have a go at writing a blog a few years back --it was really a place to record what I was discovering and thinking about the availability of local food and how necessary it really is to use so much imported out of season produce. I read a really interesting book called Plenty about a Canadian couple who attempted to live for a year on food only grown and produced within a hundred miles of where they lived. Living off the island alone would obviously be very restrictive in ways but it was eye opening and an enjoyable challenge to discover how much good food can be made simply with island produce. How did you know you were ready to run your own place? I didn’t. I had always had a dream of running something little like a kiosk ( I used to work at the Vazon Bay Cafe on the west coast and really enjoyed it) and when Moulin Huet came up I went down to have a look and nearly cried because the view was so amazing - I pushed the door and it opened. What’s been the best advice you’ve been given as a Tea Room owner? ‘You’re a long time dead’, I was given this advice before I took on Moulin Huet this season, take a chance and live! What are your culinary ambitions for the future? 1. Get growing more vegetables. 2. Make some awesome cakes
To witness the story of Moulin Huet Tearoom & Garden for yourself have a look at thier fantastic Facebook page which is updated daily... https://www.facebook.com/MoulinHuetGSY
Jason Hamon and Mat Bateman from Porky’s.
Real cider Real taste Fermented from 100% apples, Traditional Rocquette is a full bodied cider free from articial avours, colours and sweeteners. Guernsey’s unique climate of long summer days and fresh Atlantic breezes help produce the intense fruit avour that Rocquette is famous for.
www.rocquettecider.com
ames Strawbridge is a TV chef, author and now Guernsey tourism ambassador. He was an energetic presence at this year’s first Seafood Sunday. He has a love of the island since his family enjoyed holidays here as a child and reacquainted himself with Guernsey in a trip while filming his Hungry Sailors programme with father Dick. The pair foraged for sea beet, sorrel and seaweed along the coast, before inviting locals back to the boat for dinner. James is now raising the profile of Guernsey in the pages of the Daily Telegraph and voicing VisitGuernsey’s new Tasty Walks. He has been appointed to help highlight the island’s walking and gastronomy delights but will also build general awareness of the tourism potential of the island. In addition to heading up ITV1’s ‘The Hungry Sailors’ programme, James has starred in ITV1’s ‘Saturday Farm’, is a regular contributor to ‘The Alan Titchmarsh Show’ and has appeared as an eco-guest on ‘Richard and Judy’ and ‘Ready Steady Cook’.
J
5 AMBASSADORIAL DUTIES T he fresh face of Guer nsey’s tour ism ambassador
One of the new generation of genuine socially aware and environmentally conscious TV personalities, James lives in Cornwall with his wife and young children, and even finds time to run his own food business the Posh Pasty Company. He’s happiest, as anyone who was at the May Seafront Sunday will confirm, when cooking and being outdoors. When not writing, filming or crimping pasties James is also passionate about the sea and enjoys relaxing in his wooden sailing boat or competitively gigrowing for his local club. James’s TV debut came soon after gaining a 1st class degree in Environmental History from the University of York in 2006. He starred in the BBC2 hit series It’s Not Easy Being Green which followed his family as they attempted to live a more sustainable lifestyle. James learnt green engineering concepts, animal husbandry, land management and a very hands-on approach to environmental living. Following It’s Not Easy Being Green James co-presented The Reinventors, UKTV History with his dad, Dick Strawbridge. James used his skills as an historian and participated in the recreation of amazing inventions such as the fire pump, threshing machine, and Stephenson’s Rocket. A second and third series of It’s Not Easy Being Green (2007 & 2009) saw James and his dad working with members of the public on eco projects across the UK. Following this, James featured in the BBC2 series Paradise or Bust (2008). He managed an eco tourism project on an island in Fiji; spear fishing, playing local
rugby, and building wind turbines was all in a day’s work. James is a celebrated writer and co-wrote Practical-Self Sufficiency: The Complete Guide to Sustainable Living with his dad Dick. James was also employed as an Eco-consultant for the Lost Gardens of Heligan, a major tourist attraction in Cornwall. Most recently James has presented two popular series of The Hungry Sailors which were 50 hour long episodes broadcast on ITV1 over the last two years. Dick and James set sail aboard a wooden pilot cutter to explore the food of Britain’s coastal towns. Mooring in tiny harbours and busy ports they met farmers, fishermen, producers and foragers, gathering fantastic local produce and heading back onboard to cook up a number of fabulous dishes in their galley kitchen. It was a coastal, culinary and critical triumph and the boys spent three episodes travelling around the Channel Islands. “I fell in love with Guernsey during our Hungry Sailors visit. I tucked into delicious local oysters and crabs and the perspective from the sea is unique. From the rugged cliff tops to the sweeping sandy bays, I was struck by the beauty and variety of the island. I am delighted to be helping to promote this destination and look forward to spending more time on Guernsey in the future.” Beyond his TV work, James founded the Posh Pasty Company with his wife Holly in 2013, producing award-winning gourmet pasties using the finest Cornish ingredients. They travel the south west in their vintage VW Food Truck - attending
street festivals and supplying Selfridges Food Hall, The Eden Project and a host of beach cafes. James now finds himself as a board member on the Cornish Pasty Association and runs regular cooking demonstrations and catering events at food festivals across country. His most recent venture is a Cornish pop-up restaurant called ‘Strawbridge & Son BBQ Smokehouse’ cooking up a storm at events such as Port Eliot Festival and Dartmouth Food Festival. James is proud of his routes and writes regularly as the Food & Drinks editor for Cornwall Life magazine. It would appear this disciple of sustainibility and provenance is an ideal fit with Guernsey’s more natural tourist destination. Wendy Pedder from Visit Guernsey said. “James is a natural fit for Guernsey. His passion for the outdoors and nature is infectious and this combined with his culinary skills makes him an ideal ambassador for Guernsey where we pride ourselves on our gastronomy and stunning scenery. We are hugely looking forward to working with James and to his contribution to our plans in 2014.
I fell in love with Guernsey during our Hungry Sailors visit. I tucked into delicious local oysters and crabs and the perspective from the sea is unique. From the rugged cliff tops to the sweeping sandy bays, I was struck by the beauty and variety of the island.
ON TOP OF THE WORLD _
Les Cotils has been carefully positioned in the minds of all of us as a retreat from the humdrum of St Peter Port. Set in stunning grounds and enjoying an unbeatable view this intriguing hospitality venue that offers so much, is now proud to showcase its stunning new Swiffen bar and dining room. Jill Chadwick took in the view. Les Cotils has been the Cinderella of the eating out fraternity for far too long because this is a venue that deserves to take its place amongst some of the island’s best restaurants as it hits the mark on food, ambiance, value for money and quality customer service. Les Cotils is gaining a reputation for being the place to enjoy a relaxed lunch or a special occasion dinner with the addition of the stunning new Swiffen Room with its newly built bar and adjoining dining room. The restaurant has fantastic views over the harbour and the beautifully landscaped gardens below. Les Cotils is an oasis offering top quality food but up until now
it has been a bit of a secret that needs to be shared. The chef uses the freshest local fish and shellfish
perfectly cooked and presented, and delicious steaks and sauces and the finest seasonal vegetables and salads come as standard - all
locally sourced. I discovered the restaurant almost by accident. Our morning session in one of the eight meeting rooms had proved successful so we opted for a variety of lobster and scallops and chicken dishes -with a glass of chilled wine. The platters arrived beautifully presented and cooked as they should be, lightly and with just the right balance of seasoning. We were like children, investigating what was on the platter next to us, secretly wishing to try everything because it all looked so tempting. The chef creates an amazing potato rosti concoction, and there were also delicious crispy roast spuds and buttery new Guernsey potatoes too, and although our team
Les Cotils For enquiries www.lescotils.com Tel: 727793
DINNER MENU (EXAMPLE) To start Cream of Vegetable Soup Italian Melon, Parma Ham Saladette, Balsamic Dressing Parfait of Duck Liver Orange, Pistachios and Red Marmalade Retro Style of Sweet Water Prawns, Brandy, Tomato Relish Thai Chancre Crab Cakes, Sweet Chilli Sauce and Light Plum Sauce Italian Antipasti, Liver Terrine, Sunshine Fruits Mains Scorched Sirloin Steak, Cognac, Black Pepper Cream (£3.50 supplement) Fillet of Sirloin Steak, Stilton and Guinness, (Supplement £3.50) Roast Loin of Pork, Sage Stuffing, Apple Puree, Red Wine Jus Supreme of Chicken, Bacon, Brie, Mushroom Tarragon Poached Filet of Lemon Sole, Seafood Mousse, Bonne Femme Infusion Red Onion, Sweet Tomato Tart, Mozzarello Green Pesto Roast Chicken, Tomato and Cumin Sauce Lamb Tangine with Apricots, Egyptian Noubian Rice Smoked Haddock, Asparagus, Prawn Herb and Garlic Butter Potato, Vegetable Spinach Omelette To finish Choice of Desserts from The Trolley British and European Cheeses, Grapes and Preserves Fresh Ground Coffee, Herbal and Fruit Teas Three courses including coffee £17.95. Two courses, including coffee £14.50.
The new Swiffen Bar at Les Cotils.
was on a carb free diet, nobody resisted! The vegetarian option was a stunning risotto with sweet potato and I for one will be back to sample that. The pudding selection was to die for so we all opted to order a platter and share; it was too difficult to choose just one. So a conference session became a memorable lunchtime feast, and it seemed rude not to investigate the evening dinner option for future reference.
The executive chef at les Cotils has good reason to feel proud of the great food that comes out of his kitchen. Robert Till has worked hard to create a menu that will have a wide appeal from casual lunches to fine dining offerings. But the kitchen is a versatile one and the event side of the business offers a wide variety of finger buffets, alfresco barbeques and extensive outside catering options. And it is not just on the food front that the bar has been raised at Les Cotils. All the main reception rooms have
undergone a tasteful refurbishment to compliment the brand new contemporary bar and restaurant. The result is a beautiful contemporary wining and dining space that is a match for any . Les Cotils is fully licenced. The bedrooms are also beautifully presented with 27 ensuite rooms with TV’s and free Wi-Fi. Set in 12 acres of stunning grounds with enviable views out over the East Coast, this is the perfect place to relax and chill out, or to hold a wedding or family celebration.
This page: The stunning new Swiffen dining room. Opposite page clockwise from top left: The new Swiffen bar is located in a large atrium. Bar manager Joe always offers a friendly welcome,plenty of comfortable seating and the newly decorated Les Cotils guest rooms.
Les Cotils is happy to welcome couples and cater for small intimate dinners, but it is also a quality venue for large gatherings offering a huge range of catering options. It is also a great place to do some corporate entertaining, dinner for two or 120 guests. Whatever the occasion Les Cotils will do you proud. This autumn the coffee shop and restaurant will be offering special Tennerfest menus, and watch out too for event specials like the Battle of Britain
lunch time menu – where better to see the fly-over whilst enjoying a tasty barbeque. The centre is also gaining a reputation as a great wedding venue as the views and lawns can provide a spectacular backdrop for your special day. The chef is also able to come up with a number of banqueting options to ensure your wedding feast is a memorable one. As the nights draw in it is time to think about booking those Christmas office parties and Les Cotils should be at the
top of any list given the flexibility of space and diversity of menus and the availability of rooms should you need overnight accommodation. The Harry Bound room can facilitate dinner for 120 guests with a sizeable dancefloor. Les Cotils promises to be the stress free option for any event with the offer of great food, fabulous views and most importantly, the best service and attention to detail.
From milk to immortality It’s all about the quality of the milk, so it is no surprise Guernsey cheese, derived from our world famous dairy herds, have won international awards. Jon Taylor met with Guernsey Dairy’s production manager Dave Domaille to find out more about our local cheese credentials.
M
ilk is how it starts but it’s also the biggest challenge when producing a good cheese. Homogenising milk damages the proteins so part of the skill in cheesemaking is balancing out the fats, which contribute to the flavour and texture of the cheese, before handling the coagulated protein (curd) drained from the liquid (whey) to produce different flavours, textures and styles. Dave Domaille is scientific in his assessment of cheese production but years of working with the stuff and a passion for his craft means Guernsey enjoys some of the finest cheese in the world. Dave continues with the science lesson. “Rennet contains many enzymes, including a proteolytic enzyme (protease) that coagulates the milk, causing it to separate into solids (curds) and liquid (whey). The milk must not be homogenised, nor heated higher than pasteurisation temperature, basically the time / temperature parameters are critical,” says Dave. An accurate thermometer is evidently a key tool for any budding cheese-producer but this process has become second nature to the more experienced cheese-maker, who with his team, is responsible for producing over 40 tonnes of product each year. The success of Guernsey
Dairy cheeses has gathered pace following a plethora of awards won in recent years. “We’ve had enquiries from major suppliers in France and Ireland although availability, shipping and distribution remains an ongoing challenge in a very competitive environment however, the full range of Guernsey Dairy cheeses are available across the island either pre-wrapped or as a variable weight sold from a traditional Deli-counter. The catering sector is a growing market for us with Chefs choosing to use local cheeses either in their dishes or individually as part of a cheese board. We’re all very proud of what we have achieved to date,” says Dave. Dave takes me on a guided tour of the Dairy’s cheese production plant and it’s far more impressive than I imagined. Against a backdrop of performance targets and profit making practices, Guernsey Dairy is one shining light in the States’ commercial operations. A series of storage facilities, stainless steel machinery and packaging areas make up an incredibly efficient and organised array of processes that make up the Dairy’s cheese production plant. Dave shows me where they cut the curd into pieces (known as a cheddaring tray) and after much stirring and checking, moulds are filled with the
set curds and placed on a rack with the temperature regulated at a a constant 20C temperature. The process of cheese production is clinical but like any food formula it requires a great degree of skill and experience. Cheese is a food, which has existed for thousands of years. In fact, the origins of cheese are thought to predate recorded history. In 2009, the World Cattle Federation estimated that 40% of all milk from their member farms was used to make milk products was turned into cheese. Although advances in technology have meant that some stages in the cheese making process have changed slightly over the years, the basic principles have remained the same. Dave has been with the Dairy for twenty plus years and fondly likens the Dairy as “one big extended family”. Quite literally in Dave’s case, as he has several cousins and a brother all working alongside him in various roles. Some of the senior management team have been with the organization for a number of years - decades in some cases - but importantly we are a business balanced by some members of the younger generation who are keen to take on some traditional skills whilst making the best use of modern technology. “The Dairy manager Andrew Tabel, has been a great
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The milk must not be homogenised, nor heated higher than pasteurisation temperature, basically the time / temperature parameters are critical
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addition to our team in recent years. His dynamism and enthusiasm rubs off on all of us and it’s a credit to him that we are able to operate profitably as a Trading Board under the remit of the States of Guernsey as efficiently as we do,” explains Dave. The modern face of the Guernsey’s Dairy is one of quiet confidence. It balances its principle objective to meet the Island’s demand for fresh liquid milk whilst recognizing the importance of growing the Dairy brand and the increasing support for high quality Guernsey Dairy products off island; thus giving the business the opportunity of extending its market beyond our shores. The recent proposal to update the existing Milk Law by the Dairy Industry Reports Group is considered vital if we are to protect the Island’s rich dairy heritage, the world-famous ‘Golden Guernsey’ breed of cow in her island home and Guernsey’s traditional patchwork of over 3,000 fields and 600 miles of hedgerows for future generations to enjoy. The dairy industry plays an important role in Island life with farmers
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being the primary custodians of our countryside helping to maintain and support a diverse range of flora and fauna. The recognition the business and the Island has received from our awardwinning cheeses have certainly helped. “The first award came about following a concerted team effort led by the Dairy’s cheese-makers who, through determination, skill and hard work , developed a full-flavoured traditionally smoked mature cheese. ”There’s no egotism when it comes to winning accolades because at the end of the day we all contribute to the process,” says Dave, who is now part of the wider process having been invited to judge the World Cheese Awards in 2010. Whilst recognition of his endeavours and the Dairy’s success is gratifying. Dave is quick to credit another Guernsey cheese manufacturer, Fenella Madison of the Torteval Cheese Company for her involvement, not only as a judge, but from achieving similar levels of success which has firmly establish Guernsey on the World cheese map. The Dairy’s achievements are even more
laudable when you consider their priority modus operandi is to keep the Island supplied with fresh liquid milk and they only turn their attention to cheese-making when excess raw material becomes available.. Only local produced milk goes into producing the award-winning cheeses. . The mature and mild cheddar, as well as the outstanding smoked cheddar, which scooped a Gold medal at the World Cheese Awards in 2008, with the mild and extra mature cheeses each winning Bronze. In the following year, success was repeated when the Dairy’s mild cheese was awarded a Bronze medal at the British Cheese Awards and a Silver medal was presented to the extra-mature cheese at the World Cheese Awards. The Dairy has developed other cheeses to compliment the range of harder cheeses which includes a soft cheese called ‘Frie d’Or’ which, when translated from our indigenous Norman language of Dgernésiais, translates as ‘Meadow of Gold’ or ‘Golden Meadow’. Cheeses containing a mixture of herbs and spices including the rather unique and fiery Chilli cheese can be found at the local Farmer’s
Market and on a selection of Deli-counters and cheese boards across the Island. The tour has come to an end but it would be remiss of me to spend time in the company of Guernsey’s foremost producer without getting an insider’s view on cheese. I start with asking Dave what he looks for in a good cheese. “You can usually tell by the appearance of the cheese as to whether it’s going to be good, bad or indifferent. Look at the cheese for color and signs of freshness. Ask yourself does the Brie look creamy and plump, or is there a chalky core? Does the Cheddar look shiny and smooth, or dull and crumbly? Each cheese has its own unique characteristics, depending on its age,” says Dave. Dave prefers his cheese on the mature side while his brother prefers the tones of the milder varieties. “Cheeses may be delicate, fruity and sweet, or it could be pungent and tangy. Take a sip of water to cleanse your palate before tasting, then slowly eat the cheese allowing its flavor to permeate through to your taste buds. Wait a few seconds to identify any lingering or developing flavors.” Dave also says storing
cheese both before and after it is sold and before serving is vital. “Cheese loses both flavor and essential moisture if exposed to air. I would recommend storing cut cheese in the fridge in an airtight container or plastic wrap but avoid tin foil. I always cut cheese while it is still chilled, for ease in handling and cutting implements should fit the style of cheese. Soft-ripened cheeses may be cut with an open-blade serrated cheese knife. Aged harder cheeses are better with a wedge knife. You can serve fresh cheeses slightly chilled; however most varieties should be presented at room temperature for best flavor and aroma,” Says Dave. If you’re serving cheese with friends Dave tells me that each cheese should have its own cutting knife to keep the flavors distinct. He tells me to keep mild cheeses away from the stronger flavoured ones on the serving tray as they may pick up the aroma and flavours of adjacent cheeses. Clearly I am more educated and appreciative about the development of cheese through its maturation cycle and how I should serve it following my discussion with Dave. Although modern
production methods play a huge part in the life of a cheese, honing it into something that we recognize, appreciate and savour, in the same way we would a fine wine or a luxurious box of hand-made chocolate, takes great skill, patience and experitise As we’ve discovered throughout our journey around Guernsey’s food producers for this TasteGuernsey supplement, Guernsey has an abundant and diverse range of responsibly produced local product that are expertly complimented by people with a passion for their creative use and development of new ways to enjoy them. The introduction and continued investment modern and innovative manufacturing techniques and the exacting standards achieved by the Guernsey Dairy should be heralded as a great success, but great cheese is only possible if the process is married with a passion and care for the product. Cheese may be milk’s leap toward immortality (or certainly a way of extending its shelf life!) but the artisan process of cheese-making continues to slowly evolve, as it has been since ‘time began’ and this is part of what keeps the intrigue and enjoyment of the stuff alive.
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La Nautique
lenautiquerestaurant.co.uk
Tel: 721714
CONSISTENCY IN EXCELLENCE _
Gunter Botzenhart has always let his food do the talking but it’s his new interior at La Nautique that has got his patrons chattering. As Jon Taylor reports
‘Consistency in excellence’. ‘World Class’, ‘This is the best restaurant in Guernsey’, are just some of the testimonials used to describe La Nautique. Gunter has been quietly serving the island since 1999 at this particular seafront venue when he became chef proprietor. After serving his apprenticeship in his home town of Ulm in Germany, working in a popular Mövenpick Restaurant, he moved to Geneva in Switzerland, again working for Mövenpick. In 1981, he arrived in Guernsey, where after a short time he became Head Chef at La Frégate. Following fifteen years of unwavering high standards at La Frégate, Günter left to become Chef Proprietor of Le Nautique Restaurant, which
has been in his ownership ever since. 33 years of delivering stunning and imaginative cuisine takes persistence. Furthermore, For a man with a locally born wife and five daughters to keep him entertained, dedication is clearly in his DNA. The restaurant that he now runs has been transformed this year. Part of its previous charm was the traditional comfort but this injection of chic from interior designer Steve Howie complements the sophistication of La Nautique’s menu. From both of its floors, there are fantastic views over the harbour, Castle Cornet and the islands beyond through full-length picture windows. The new decor is sophisticated and contemporary. The combination
of modern flooring and retrostyle lighting with organic rounded wooden features evokes a feeling of harmony and comfort, reminiscent of 1930s Art Nouveau style. Those patrons who were concerned for this historically important building’s transformation should be reassured as great sympathy for it’s nautical heritage remains and is a central theme in the restaurant’s new look. For those new to its traditions, Le Nautique occupies a former Guernsey warehouse which was used for the storage of wines, spirits, tobacco, and other goods from the late 1700s. It is known to have belonged for a time to Sir William Collings, a leading Guernsey merchant and
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Part of its previous charm was the traditional comfort but this injection of chic from interior designer Stephen Howe complements the sophistication of La Nautique’s menu
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shipowner, who lived between 1781 and 1854. During the eighteenth century, St Peter Port was a major international trading port and a centre for privateering. Local shipowners imported wine and brandy from France, rum from the West Indies, and tobacco from Maryland and Virginia. They also brought back prize cargoes of similar goods captured from enemy shipping during the many eighteenthcentury wars. These goods were stored in vaults such as the Nautique’s while awaiting onward sale to clients in England. The produce that now arrives through the doors is hand selected by Gunter. This particular chef has a reputation for producing classical cuisine with a modern twist. Although taking his inspiration from the classics, he adapts old recipes to create something truly original and authentic. His style is simple and honest, often the hardest thing to achieve in a restaurant. This ethos of originality and excellence is held by the entire Le Nautique kitchen brigade, who take real pride in, and are passionate about, the cuisine they produce. Günter uses only the freshest possible produce in the creation of his dishes. Fish and shellfish caught in Guernsey’s fertile waters are purchased on a daily
basis. Fresh, organic, locally-sourced ingredients are used wherever possible, and the ‘chef recommends’ section of the menu is constantly updated to incorporate seasonally available produce. Both the wine list and the menu are extensive, the latter offering not only fish but mouthwatering meat and vegetarian options also. Le Nautique Restaurant Guernsey is a truly exceptional seafood restaurant and its chef-proprietor, Günter Botzenhardt, is renowned for his innovative and creative cuisine. Following the re-design of its interior La Nautique is now arguably the finest dining out experience in town. Le Nautique Restaurant’s upper floor “Salon Prive” is the perfect location for a private party. With panoramic views over St. Peter Port harbour, it can comfortably accommodate up to 36 people in various seating arrangements for private dining. It is ideal for either a small social gathering or a larger corporate ‘do’. If more space is needed, why not book the entire Restaurant for exclusive private parties, seating up to 80 guests.
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Local shipowners imported wine and brandy from France, rum from the West Indies, and tobacco from Maryland and Virginia. They also brought back prize cargoes of similar goods captured from enemy shipping during the many eighteenth-century wars. These goods were stored in vaults such as the Nautique’s while awaiting onward sale to clients in England.
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La Nautique
lenautiquerestaurant.co.uk
Tel: 721714
fresh A approach
Milton Produce is a wholesaler supplier for the island’s catering industry. Nigel Stewart is the man behind this efficient local business that prides itself on delivering top quality produce from an organisation that is driven with a passion to be the best it can be.
Milton Produce
It’s 3.30 a.m. and staff are already on site at Milton produce in their large St Andrew’s warehouse and storage facility. The priority is to listen to the orders placed the previous day and overnight so that the team can start to make up their orders when they arrive at 5 a.m. By midday orders of fresh fruit, vegetables frozen goods and speciality Thai products have gone out, but the work is far from over. “I then start to order for the following day”, explains Nigel, who has run Milton Produce for the past 18 years. “We work to a 24 hour turn around, and we work six days a week. We are proud to be the quickest provider because our opposition take about three days to our one. But we enjoy the challenges, and boats willing, we never let anyone down.” Nigel explains that there are four main strands to the business – quality, service, availability and most importantly, price. “The challenges of today are that people want to be able to have all sorts of produce all year long – and at the best price. It can be a real juggling act and I hope to get it right. There are some products we can source
locally and at the right quality, but not as many as there used to be. We use Guernsey mushrooms because they are the best, and Guernsey Herbs also work with us, but a lot of our fresh produce has to be imported. Our job is to ensure that we get the best quality products at a price our customers will be happy to pay.” He talks of the changes in the food provision industry and uses Guernsey’s tomatoes as an example of how price can be a real problem. “Sadly caterers want to pay a good price. They will look at a tray of beautiful Dutch graded tomatoes available at one price and then at the Guernsey ones that are double the price. They will go for the cheaper tray every time as the tomatoes are quality, but sadly not locally grown.”
Nigel tries where he can to source local produce and to illustrate the point, during our interview with him a local grower arrived with a huge basket of baby leeks. He then took a call from another grower who had a greenhouse full of local peaches so they were put on the list for the next day too. “The great thing is that those leeks will be on the lunch tables at The Farmhouse today and that gives you a feeling of satisfaction because they are a top locally grown product.” Nigel also works with other local farmers, among them, Terry Robert who produces calibrese and lettuces in his fields. He explains that he works with a family run wholesaler in the UK that works in a similar way to the Guernsey operation.
“It is a large business, but still small enough that we know the name of the people we are dealing with so we have a good relationship and we can always talk to them about our needs and concerns should we have any. They collect their produce direct from Southampton docks, so the produce is not sent to a large central market to be resold. In this way the cost is kept down as you are missing out on the middle man. The produce they supply us may not be Guernsey grown, but it is also top quality and at a good price.” Nigel sources supplies from all over the world, though the majority does come from Holland and Spain. Milton Produce has certainly moved with the times and Nigel and his team continue to look at ways of increasing and improving their
product ranges. “We carry a huge range of authentic Thai products that you can’t find anywhere else, so a lot of the local restaurants and Thai enthusiasts come to us. We have a wide range of sauces and noodles, pastes and nuts, too many to mention, but it is a popular range and we keep it fully stocked at all times.” Nigel has also gone into the frozen foods business and supplies a huge amount of prepared vegetables, pizza bases, fish and shellfish and delicious frozen cakes. “A while ago Prepared Vegetable Service closed down so we took that on alongside supplying a large supply of dried goods too, it was another string to our bow and works well alongside the fresh produce side of the business. The frozen goods aspect is now huge.” A cold store is filled with every type of food imaginable that keeps cafes, restaurants and take-aways supplied year round. The team is now 12 strong and are committed to providing a top local service. “Staff arrive from 3.30 a.m. onwards and I am in by about 5 a.m. It is a year round job six days a week and summer time and bank holidays are our busiest times as the demand from hotels and restaurants increases. Most days will find about 100 orders or more on our answer phone and the calls will keep coming in during the morning. By noon we have delivered goods for that day and put the wheels in motion to order in fresh produce for the next day’s deliveries.” The ferry arrives with those goods by 3 a.m. and the team will be packing produce in boxes for delivery by 6 a.m. “We are by far the quickest provider, and I hope we give the best value for money but not at the cost of quality.” He explains that he started out as a milkman and gradually began supplying hotels with additional foodstuffs. “It simply went from there, I have enjoyed building the business – though a few more hours in bed we would good!.
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Nigel tries where he can to source local produce and to illustrate the point, during our interview with him a local grower arrived with a huge basket of baby leeks. He then took a call from another grower who had a greenhouse full of local peaches so they were put on the list for the next day too.
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Call in to any branch natwestinternational.com/helpfulbanking Like NatWest CI on Facebook Follow us on Twitter @NatWestGsy The Royal Bank of Scotland International Limited trading as NatWest (NatWest). Registered Office: P.O. Box 64, Royal Bank House, 71 Bath Street, St. Helier, Jersey JE4 8PJ. Regulated by the Jersey Financial Services Commission. Guernsey business address: PO Box 62, Royal Bank Place, 1 Glategny Esplanade, St. Peter Port, Guernsey, GY1 4BQ. Regulated by the Guernsey Financial Services Commission and licensed under the Banking Supervision (Bailiwick of Guernsey) Law, 1994, as amended, the Insurance Managers and Insurance Intermediaries (Bailiwick of Guernsey) Law, 2002, and the Protection of Investors (Bailiwick of Guernsey) Law, 1987, as amended. NatWest is a participant in the Guernsey Banking Deposit Compensation Scheme. The scheme offers protection for ‘qualifying deposits’ up to £50,000, subject to certain limitations. The maximum total amount of compensation is capped at £100,000,000 in any 5 year period. Details are available from: Website: www.dcs.gg. Telephone: +44 (0)1481 722756. Post: P.O. Box 380, St Peter Port, GY1 3FY. Deposits made in a Guernsey Branch will not be covered by any equivalent scheme in any jurisdiction outside of the Bailiwick of Guernsey. Under the scheme(s) customers are entitled to make only one claim per licensed entity regardless of the number of brands or trading names contained within that licensed entity and customers are entitled to make one claim only per licensed entity in the jurisdiction where the deposits are held. Therefore as NatWest brand is operated by RBS International it is not licensed in its own right. A person with a deposit in NatWest and a deposit in RBS International would thus only be entitled to make one claim. Further details of these schemes are available on request. NatWest is a member of The Royal Bank of Scotland Group. The Royal Bank of Scotland plc - Registered in Scotland No 90312. Registered office: 36 St Andrew Square, Edinburgh EH2 2YB. The Royal Bank of Scotland plc is authorised by the Prudential Regulation Authority and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority and the Prudential Regulation Authority. The latest report and accounts are available at www.investors.rbs.com. NatWest places funds with other parts of its Group and thus its financial standing is linked to the Group. Depositors may wish to form their own view on the financial standing of NatWest and the Group based on publicly available information. The latest report and accounts are available at www.natwestinternational.com/financial-results. Calls may be recorded. Network charges may apply.
Changing tides
T ides
For enquiries tidesbistrocafe@gmail.com
Tel: 245661
Punching well above its weight Tides bistro is the perfect place to dine inside or out for that casual lunch or special occasion celebration meal. ’Taste’ headed out north to meet up with Phil Collinson, Tides new proprietor, to find out how his nautical ‘with a twist’ theme is working its magic. In 1896 the Oatlands complex was a bustling boat yard and due to the divide at Braye du Valle, at high tide ships could anchor right outside, which explains why the newly refurbished nautical themed bistro has been re-named Tides. While all traces of its seafaring past have long gone, and the seashore is now a beautifully landscaped landmass, Phil became fascinated by the history of the area, and decided to give his newly refurbished eaterie a breath of fresh sea air. The result is a beautiful combination of light spacious dining areas, inside and out dressed with tasteful nautical artefacts, lighting and seating. The bar, which will soon house a stove for cosy autumn and winter days, is also transformed to give a much more relaxed look and feel. “People do ask about the name”, explains Phil, who is one of the island’s top culinary entrepreneurs and a man on a mission to put his latest establishment on the island’s eating out map. When they do ask –“Why Tides” he directs them to an historical information board at the complex that tells the story of the former boat yard so there is a history lesson to be had too. The new manager says he is enjoying taking up the challenge of realising the full potential of Tides. “This place had been run by two very good chefs in the past but more recently the restaurant had been allowed to stall. I knew it needed to be revitalised, and be given a stylish makeover on the interiors
front. But above all we have worked to create a value driven menu with a wide appeal, but offering something a bit different too. The result is a very stylish bistro with an extended alfresco dining area and a welcoming ambiance that invites you to linger. “ I have doubled the outdoor capacity as we extended the garden and invested a lot of time and effort paving and creating very inviting alfresco dining area”, says Phil. Inside the bar area has also changed to create fresh, comfortable and inviting space, and the tables and lights also add a sophisticated edge which he says had been lacking. “We are calling it Posh nauticals, it has a nautical theme but with a twist!” “We have gone for a subtle yet stylish nautical theme and taken our time to get things right. We hope that people will realise that Tides is the perfect place to come out and have a chilled out experience.” The menu is also filled with fresh local produce and there is also an emphasis on healthy eating options too. “I wanted to go the extra mile too when it came to children’s meals so I asked an expert, my young son Finn, for advice on what he and his friends would like to eat. He came up with a brilliant idea of a picnic platter offering tasty and healthy snacks, the sort of things that he would love to eat. It is simple but perfect for young diners – and it has been well received by mums too. The main menu is innovative too with
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We’ve created a completely new menu and our focus has been on sourcing great local produce to compliment the talents of our chef
lots of favourites but given an original revamp. “I have also tried to keep things affordable, but not at the cost of using the best and freshest Guernsey produce. Everything on the menu is cooked here fresh. “I knew that Tides had the potential to become something very special and our chefs have worked hard to come up with some great dishes that we hope will bring you back time and time again. The surroundings are also very important and in the coming weeks you will also see other subtle changes in the new bar area. The ambiance is a welcoming one with a cool, coastal charm. Every day each table has a fresh herb in a pot – lavender, thyme, basil and tarragon, all taken from the beautiful gardens. “I want the Tides experience to be a special one and I hope that people will be curious enough to head out to us and sample what we have on offer. It’s a fantastic location and now the food and ambiance come up to scratch too.”
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Tides menu
Starters or Light Bites Homemade Soup of the Day with Warm Roll £3.95 Warm Brie Brioche Bun £5.95 Brioche bun filled with creamy brie, spiced plum chutney Shell on Prawns £6.50/ £10.00 Half or pint with dipping sauces, bread & butter Salt & Pepper Calamari £6.75 / £10.00 Crisp calamari, vegetable stir-fry, Sweet chilli & lime Charcuterie Board £7.50 A selection of cured meats & pickles Fritto Misto £7.95 / £9.95 A selection of seafood deep fried in a light tempura batter & aioli dip Prawn & Crab Cocktail £6.95 Atlantic prawns and Guernsey white crab meat salad, brown bread, and marie rose dipping sauce Don’t forget our Steak, Cake & Special Boards Mains Fish ‘n’ Chips £9.95 Fried in beer batter, peas and hand cut chips,tartare sauce ‘3 Beef’ Beef Burger £8.95 Served with onion rings, tomato relish & hand cut chips Salmon Linguini £9.50 Poached & Smoked Salmon, in a White Wine, Garlic Cream Sauce Ploughman’s £9.75 Chunks of proper ham honey roasted with Guernsey cheddar & blue cheese, pickles & bread (Vegetarian option available) Sun Blushed Tomato & Basil Risotto £8.50 -v With glazed goats cheese, asparagus Thai Style Green Vegetable Curry £8.50 –v Sticky rice, flat bread Scampi £9.95 Peas fries & tartare sauce
Noodle Bowls Chicken Teriyaki £8.50 Beef, Mushroom & Oyster Sauce £9.50 King Prawns, Sweet Chilli & Lime £10.00 Salads Caesar Salad With Crisp smoked bacon, anchovies Plain £7.95 Chicken £8.95 3 Garlic King Prawns £9..95 Guernsey Crab Meat Salad £9.95 Picked white meat in the shell, lemon mayo, bread fingers Sandwiches Choose from thick sliced white / brown bread or ciabatta roll served with salad garnish & small side of fries Cheese & Pickled Onion V £5.95 Bacon Brie & Cranberry £6.95 Smoked Chicken, Pesto Mayo & Rocket Leaves £6.50 Crab & Lemon Mayo £7.95 Honey Baked Ham & Tomato £5.95 Prawn Marie Rose £6.95 Tomato & Mozzarella V £6.25 Jacket Potatoes Served with small house salad Cheese & Beans £5.50 Prawn Marie Rose £6.95 Cheese & Bacon £5.95
T ides
For enquiries tidesbistrocafe@gmail.com
Tel: 245661
29
Bestival
“This place had been run by two very good chefs in the past but more recently the restaurant had been allowed to stall. I knew it needed to be revitalised, and be given a stylish makeover on the interiors front. But above all we have worked to create a value driven menu with a wide appeal, but offering something a bit different too.�
T ides
Bistro & Cafe For enquiries tidesbistrocafe@gmail.com
Tel: 245661 Picture captions
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FIND US
Don’t let herbicide pollution DAMPEN OUR LOVE OF WATER LOVE YOUR WATER
Guernsey’s streams, reservoirs and groundwater are at risk from pollution by relatively small quantities of herbicides. European Community and UK Water Quality Regulations stipulate that an individual herbicide (weedkiller) in drinking water should not exceed 100 nanograms per litre (one part per ten thousand million). The Prevention of Pollution (Guernsey) Law, 1989, states that ‘No person shall cause or permit the occurrence of pollution, or cause or permit a risk of pollution to arise’. In order to ensure compliance with the Law, Guernsey Water advises that herbicides should not be applied to high-risk areas such as stream banks, ponds, wet meadows, marshy areas, douits, drainage ditches, above ground or underground culverts within the Water Catchment Area.
For further information about how to prevent pollution in your area please download our Application of Herbicides Within the Water Catchment Area advice sheet at http://www.water.gg/your-environment/catchment-protection
Tel: 239500 • Fax: 234649 • Email: customer.service@water.gg Address: PO Box 30, Brickfield House, St Andrew, GY1 3AS Web: www.water.gg
Mora .................... T: 715053 mora.gg
FANTASY
A Hollywood reporter once asked Marilyn Monroe the time she most enjoyed her favourite champagne cocktail. With her breathy laugh she replied, “any time”. Cocktails have never been more popular in Guernsey and with a new menu out and reputation for the finest around, Mora’s were only too happy to show us what’s shaking – with Marilyn’s favourite included. The sun has just gone down and the cocktail bar at Mora is poised for yet another busy night. With a brand new cocktail menu offering an even bigger range of exotic selections, and a line-up of new mixologists, Mora has become, and remains, the place to be if you want a fun night out with great food and views to die for. The mix of a tapas menu, a la carte and more casual dining in the downstairs brassserie has proved successful, says manager Andre Rieu. The place has become the hub of town and the perfect place for a leisurely lunch, pre-dinner drinks and a casual or special occasion dinner. It’s also earned a reputation for being the place to meet to get in the mood for a great night and what better way to begin than with a Mora classic cocktail. Every evening you can expect a great mix of people who are attracted by the amazing harbour-side view and prospect of a laid back night of great food, cocktails and fun people.
At weekends too you can expect to hear the sounds of soft jazz in the front bar and says Andre, it is a busy bar on weekdays too. “We attract a wide range of regular customers who enjoy the casual atmosphere, but it is also a place where you can dress up for a night out. We aimed to appeal to a wide range of local and visiting clientele and we have done so. Mora now has the reputation for a place that has a real buzz about it. “ You can come back time and time again because you can always be assured of a great atmosphere, good food and fantastic cocktails. Whether you want to wind down after a busy day at the office, enjoy a girlie night, or a family get together, Moras is the place to be. Taste headed to Mora to test drive the new cocktail menu and sample some fabulous wooden platters piled with tapas. Their philosophy is that any time is tapas time so ask for the Brasserie menu where you will find some mouth-watering tapas treats to share and help make those cocktails go down a treat.
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Mora
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T: 715053 mora.gg
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A TASTE SELECTION FROM MORA’S NEW EXTENSIVE COCKTAIL MENU Royal Mojito Limes, mint, brown sugar, Havana 7 champagne Orchard Sour Apple juice, fresh grapefruit juice, elderflower cordial and Tanqueray Gin Frozen Strawberry Daiquiri Fresh strawberries, strawberry puree, Havana 3, strawberry liqueur, lemon juice White lady Gin, Cointreau, lemon juice, egg white Japanese Ice Tea Gin Triple Sec rum, vodka, Tequila, lime juice, Midori, lemonade Vanilla Caipiroska Vanilla, vodka, lime wedges, vanilla, sugar Pink Dreams Fresh grapefruit juice, gin, sloe gin, Chambord, lemon juice Beautilicious Fresh strawberries, vodka, strawberry liqueur, passion fruit puree apple juice, lemon juice Mora Classic Cocktails £7.50 Cosmopolitan Vodka. Triple-Sec, lime juice, cranberry juice Caipirinha Cachaca, sugar, lime wedges Sex on the beach Vodka, peach Schnapps, Safari, Malibu, orange juice, pineapple juice, Grenadine Long Island Iced Tea Gin, Triple sec, rum vodka, Tequila, lime juice, Coke Margarita Tequila, Cointreau, fresh lime Shots £4.50 Crack Babies Vodka, chambords, passion fruit puree, champagne Money shot Vanilla vodka, vanilla sugar, passion fruit , champagne Mini Guinness Baileys Kahlua.
VINTAGE FLAIR Beautiful design, luxurious quality and an overlying mood of elegance and femininity define the autumn winter 14 home & kitchen collection at Marks & Spencer. Bold, rich tones and elegant designs shaping the collection. new materials, styles and colours have been explored, strengthening an indulgent range of accessories which effortlessly transition any space into a warm and sumptuous home.
PADSTOW 2 DOOR LARDER UNIT £1440 (and opposite page) PADSTOW BUTCHERS BLOCK £494 PESTLE & MORTAR £15 CONICAL STRAINER £19.50 RECTANGULAR BOARD £15 CHOPPING BOARD £37.50
y o u r m a r k s a n d s p e n c e r. g g
EXTENDING DINING TABLE £494 DINING CHAIR £359 (SET OF TWO) PADSTOW TWO DOOR LARDER £1440 SOFT RETRO SHADE £28
MAKE A SAVING Save 20% when you buy two pieces of selected furniture. Call in-store for details
Shallow Cast Iron Casserole £59 Truro Stripe 12-Piece Dinner Set £57 Calico Large Jug £25 Vintage-Style Cutlery Set £28 Ash Button Board £28
Naseby Collection This chunky and robust range, predominantly crafted from solid and veneered oak, has a pleasingly rustic finish. Extending Dining Table £559 Dining Chair Set of 2 £314 Bench £314
Andante Round 12-Piece Dinner Set £28 Andante 12-Piece Square Dinner Set £37.50 Brooklyn Fringe Napkin £12.50
Blackberry Cup & Saucer Set £12.50 Blackberry Mug £7.50 Blackberry Cereal Bowl £6 Blackberry Teapot £28
* Items featured are subject to availability. Call into M&S Home for more information Or contact them on 01481 738236 or email at mands.furniture@creaseys.com
Etch Peony Side Plate £5 Lyonais Wine Glass Set of 4 £25 Tulip Table Runner £25 Etch Peony Cereal Bowl £5 Etch Peony Dinner Plate £6 Stanford 16-Piece Cutlery Set £37.50
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