WHAT TO WEAR NOW! LO O K B E T T E R • F E E L B E T T E R • K N OW M O R E
com plete
STYLE MANUAL inside
5
th
I S S U E
FALL/ WINTER 2014 STYLE • SUITS ACCESSORIES TIMEPIECES TRENDS • TRAVEL AUTOMOBILES ADVICE
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Contents 28
YOU CAN OWN IT, BUT IT WILL POSSESS YOU.
CHAPTER ONE
Portfolio The One 42 A handcrafted luggage set to make an occasion of your arrival
The Remixed Nude 44 Martin Rondeau’s tapestries of the female form
Adventure Collective 46 Rugged furniture for refined spaces
Aim Higher 48 London’s hotel race reaches new heights with the Shangri-La at the Shard
A Seat at the World’s Best Bar 48 Mixology meets spectacle at the Artesian
The New Racing Watch 50 Four octane-inspire timepieces for any race fan
The Beautiful Adventure 51 New books honouring photographer Danny Lyon
44
Now That’s an Infinity Pool 52 An outstanding home on a Greek island paradise
The Real Jet Set 54
Fire on Water 58
A Bookshelf to Build a House Around 62
Take flight and see the world with Four Seasons
The Aeroboat is high-speed aquatic luxury
Stunning marble accents from Zaha Hadid
Tread Lightly and Ride a Fat Bike 54
Shark Shooter 58
No Spin, No Win 64
Bicycles for any adventure, any time of year
Dangerous objets d’art
Take spinning to the next level
The View From the Top 56
High Octane Décor 60
Time Change 64
Own a spectacular piece of the Manhattan skyline
Add a vintage Porsche to your wall
A revolutionary liquid-filled timepiece
A Delicate Glass for a Stout Brew 56
Persols for the Night Time 60
The Most Famous Knife in the World 66
The perfect vessel for drinking stout
Optical frames from an Italian style icon
130 years of Victorinox
THE ALL-NEW LEXUS RC F
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It’s the all-new coupe from Lexus and it’s unlike anything that has come before it. The long-anticipated RC F delivers 450+ horsepower and is designed to dominate the streets and haunt your dreams. AMAZING IN MOTION
lexus.ca
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Contents 34
CHAPTER FOUR
Style Essentials 124 Briefcases, watches, pens, eyewear and other accessories to complete your wardrobe
A Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing 132 Bold tailored suits with an air of mystery
Artful Scents 144 No grooming regimen is complete without the perfect scent
Formal Language 150 Humphrey Bogart, Jack Nicholson and the art of black-tie style
The Insiders 156 Nine remarkable timepieces with insider appeal
High Contrast 166
The MANual 179 How to do everything better—including choose a champagne, apologize for a gaffe and gut a wild turkey
The Style Manual 195 Dark suits, rugged boots and rakish outerwear: your complete fall wardrobe, curated
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Photo: Mackenzie Duncan; wool-blend suit ($800) and cotton shirt ($200) by Strellson.
This fall’s monochrome palette is anything but boring
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Letter from the Editor-in-Chief
40
A Seamless A Experience
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
TimeWalker Chronograph DLC and Hugh Jackman Crafted for New Heights
Photo: Matt Barnes
Jeremy Freed
few years ago I was traveling through Frankfurt and I had the pleasure of spending some time in the terminal Lufthansa reserves for its firstclass passengers. An entire terminal with chef-prepared meals, personal assistants at the ready and MercedesBenz S-Class sedans waiting to ferry passengers directly to their departing flights. It stood out in marked contrast to the typical reality of modern air travel. As security measures tighten and airlines scrape away amenities previously taken for granted, here was an organization moving in the opposite direction—raising standards and the quality of service to keep their most valuable customers coming back. In Dubai, Emirates now provides a similar service at its massive new A380 hub, purposebuilt to accommodate its fleet of A380 super jumbo jets (the ones often singled out for their on-board showers and bar-lounges). The purpose of this high level of service is not just bragging rights: it is designed to maintain the same level of comfort and luxury these customers experience at home, at the office and on the ride to the airport. This is expressed in the tiniest details—from the soft, indirect lighting to the feel of the leather upholstery to the scent of the hand soap. There’s a familiarity to it. A seamlessness. Of course, while the familiar is always comforting, the exotic is also an important part of the luxury experience. On a recent trip to Istanbul to sample the new BMW M3 and M4 (which you can read more about in this edition of The Book for Men) I stayed at a Four Seasons property amid the narrow streets and chaos of the old city. Situated in a century-old building, the hotel simultaneously offered a plush respite from the commotion outside while maintaining a strong aesthetic sense of place. I could smell it in the delicately perfumed lobby, feel it in the Turkish towels in my room and see it everywhere I turned (the Hagia Sophia loomed just beyond the hotel’s windows). And all the while the comforts of home abounded, along with a level of service to match the best hotels in London, Paris or New York. Part of the fun of putting together The Book for Men is the search for products, services and destinations that offer marvelous experiences. We’ve come up with a wide variety for your enjoyment herein and all of them have one important thing in common: the experience itself may be new, but the feeling is familiar in the best possible way.
Visit us at 151 Bloor Street West • (416) 925-4810 and our new location at Yorkdale Shopping Centre • (416) 783-5670
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Portfolio 44
The Remixed Nude
Photography, tapestry and the female form artist Martin Rondeau is one of the few photographers who still work with film, and his approach to the nude is even more unique. Rondeau has developed his own method of 3D photography, which begins with a large-format photo painstakingly sliced into thin vertical strips—as if run through a giant office pap e r s h r e d d e r. H e t h e n weaves wider paper strips through to create a tapestry of light and shadow, deconstructing the photograph and creating an arresting new image. The works from his most recent show, Confession, which can be viewed and purchased at Gallery LeRo y e r i n Mo n t r e a l , a r e brightly shot pinup-style nudes interspersed with photo negatives for an effect that demands much more than a glance. M O N T R E A L- B A S E D
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the picturesque island of Tinos, Greece, Kois Associated Architects have worked with the land to build a stunning yet unobtrusive dwelling that offers panoramic views of the Aegean Sea. More noteworthy than the pristine setting, however, is the rooftop infinity pool, which seamlessly blends the clean lines of the house with the glittering sea below. Beneath the pool, the one-storey, three-bedroom home extends into the natural plateau. Outside, the overhanging edge of the pool shades an open-air living room that faces south toward the sea. The walls surrounding the Mirage House are built from locally sourced stone, which (perhaps most impressively of all) allows its spectacular design to exist harmoniously with the surrounding landscape. – CM ON
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The Mirage House is a Greek paradise
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Portfolio 52
Yo r k d a l e S h o p p i n g C e n t r e
johnvar vatos.com/peacerock s
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Portfolio 56
A Delicate Glass For a Stout Brew
A German-made necessity for beer lovers the time comes to pull out that rare bottle of stout that has been aging in the cellar for two years, you won’t just tip it into a straight beer glass. It deserves better than that. You wouldn’t sip champagne from a highball glass, would you? Spiegelau, a 500-year-old company dedicated to crafting beer vessels has collaborated with Colorado’s Rogue Ales and Oregon’s Left Hand Brewing Company to produce the world’s best stout glass. What makes this particular tumbler ideal for a dark, complex beer such as a stout? First of all, the shape: the wider conical opening and narrow base maximize aromas and taste, driving the chocolate and coffee notes upward to the nose and mouth. Secondly, the material: the pure quartz from which the glass is fashioned highlights the brew’s natural colours, so it may be better enjoyed with the eyes as well as the palate. W H EN
The View from the Top
History meets modernity in Tribeca’s Cast Iron House Manhattan real estate prices continue to soar ever higher, developers are continually attempting to outdo one another to attract the world’s wealthiest (and most discriminating) buyers. New York-based developers Knightsbridge Properties have teamed up with Pritzker Prize-winning architect Shigeru Ban to create the Cast Iron House, a collection of duplexes and two superlative penthouses at a 132-year-old Tribeca address. Before the introduction of steel during the Industrial Revolution, cast iron was often used in construction, a heritage the developers honoured by including original cast iron accents throughout the 11 duplexes that make up the Cast Iron House’s main offering. The units attracting the most attention, however, are Shigeru Ban’s airy, modern penthouses (the largest of which is 4,500 square feet, including 1,500 square feet of terrace and priced at just under $13 million) that appear to float atop the landmark structure. Thanks to clever cantilevering, the penthouse units boast sliding glass walls that create a seamless transition between the interiors and the large outdoor areas—and offer offering stunning uninterrupted views. A spectacular achievement of both design and engineering, the Cast Iron House will surely provide a worthy challenge for the next developer looking to make an impression. – CM AS
M
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Portfolio 60
High Octane Décor A classic Porsche for your wall
a true Porsche fan, it may be that having one (or more) in the garage is not an adequate expression of devotion. Porsche, perhaps more than any other car manufacturer, has inspired a following so loyal that the very idea of their cars, the sound of the engines, the sight of their silhouettes, is enough to prompt a visceral response. It’s fitting, then, that they would become the subject of fine art. Photographer Aaron Miletich has been preaching to the the legions of Porsche faithful with his stunning aluminum prints of Stuttgart’s legendary racing fleet. By infusing dyes straight into specially coated aluminum, Miletich is able to finish with a sheer gloss that allows some of the material’s reflective properties to show through and add a subtle 3D effect. The result will look great in your office, or even better hanging next to your 911. FO R
(From $250)
Italian for Cool Persols you can wear inside P ERSO L,
the iconic Italian sunglass brand, has long since been the go-to for men who balance a refined style with a devil-may-care attitude—and now you can wear their classic frames even after sundown. Two new lines of optical wear—the vintage-camera-lens-inspired PS 3091 and the collapsible PS 3075—both capitalize on the current trend of minimal, rounded frames, while remaining true to Persol’s immediately recognizable silhouette. The ultra-lightweight frames are constructed from acetate with metal temples through a 30-step process. More importantly, however, they are reason enough for any man to wear sunglasses indoors.
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Portfolio 66
The Most Famous Knife in the World 1884, near Lake Lucerne in the centre of Switzerland, an enterprising man named Karl Elsener began making knives for the army. They started as simple tools, suited to the simple tasks of disassembling rifles and opening cans of food. By 1897, the tool had been improved to include several blades, a screwdriver and a corkscrew (a soldier needs to unwind on occasion, after all). One hundred and thirty years later the basic design remains virtually unchanged, and the little red knife has a place in the pockets, tackle boxes and desk drawers of people everywhere. The factory where the knives were first made has since moved, but not far. Across the street in the village of Ibach now stands a space that’s large enough to accommodate 1,000 employees and the 3,000 tons of steel that pass through its doors each year, ending up as the 60,000 Swiss Army knives and 60,000 pieces of cutlery that are finished each day. Despite the scale, it’s still a community-run business fronted by an Elsener deIN
scendant, producing the knives in the spirit of the original. The saltine smell of oil and metal, one of Switzerland’s defining scents, continues to waft down the streets. The quality of the stainless steel used is certainly part of Victorinox’s success (the name is a combination of the founder’s mother’s name, Victoria and the abbreviated French word for stainless steel, inox). Victorinox steel has a hardness of 55 to 56 RC (Rockwell hardness), which is relatively low on the scale for steel, but this is chosen intentionally to allow for re-sharpening over many years. The quality of this metal is attributed to a top-secret proprietary process that happens behind the factory’s closed doors. In recent decades, the spirit of utility, clean aesthetics and simple functionality that made the Swiss Army Knife a design icon has filtered down through Victorinox’s other endeavours: clothes, luggage, fragrance, timepieces. Their fashion line blends style and functionality, with nods to military design
and Alpine tradition, as well as a pronounced effort towards sustainability. Even their fragrances reflect the brand’s roots with energetic notes of cedar, fresh lavender and mint—like a hike through the Alps in spring. They’re also celebrating 25 years of watchmaking. While that’s relatively young in terms of other Swiss timepiece brands, it hasn’t stopped them from making a name for themselves for their attention to quality and design in the Jura Mountains, the cradle of Swiss horology. To honour its 25th birthday, Victorinox has created the INOX, a new line of timepieces that are nearly indestructible, having been subjected to a battery of tests—including being driven over with a 64-tonne military tank. It’s rare for a company to grow so large and diversify so far without losing sight of the values that first gave it form. It’s far more rare, however, for a product conceived in the late 19th century to remain relevant 130 years later, its design still remarkably close to the original. Such is the beauty of the little red knife.
Available at The Hudson’s Bay and specialty fashion retailers.
130 years of Victorinox
LG
& SHARP
The Ultimate Fan Cave
Stay Connected
Complete the set-up
New ways to keep score on the move
A superlative viewing experience for your home
T
he focal piece of any fan cave is the TV. After all, the purpose of this space is to provide you with the ultimate environment to watch the big game (or match or fight or tournament). The new LG IPS 4K TV with Ultra HD resolution is the final word in bringing the stadium home: its Harman Kardon speakers clearly deliver every whistle or contact, the picture on your choice of either 79” or 84” screen is sharp enough to see the net ripple after each goal, and its Smart TV features powered by webOS are functional, intuitive and in sync with all of your other devices. Download the LG remote app for your Android smartphone, for example, and you’ll never have to look for the remote again. The distinction “Ultra HD resolution” is not one to be taken lightly. It refers to the fact that the number of pixels has been increased by a factor of four from the previous full 1080p HD models, resulting in a sharper image than you’ve ever seen in your home before.
MONTAUK GRASSHOPPER CHAIR
This chair is no slouch. Nor will it allow you to be one. The elegant structure of this midcentury-inspired, black leather and steel lounger will have you just as upright as you need to be to catch all of the action, while keeping you relaxed and comfortable.
Features
LG G3 Smartphone
PICTURE QUALITY • 4K Ultra HD Resolution • IPS 4K Panel (wide viewing angles, blur-free clarity, enhanced panel durability) • Future friendly 4K up-converts any content to near-4K quality • Ultra HD Cinema 3D (four times the resolution of traditional 3D)
S
ure, the LG G3’s camera with laser AF focuses 70 per cent faster than the average smartphone’s, the Quad HD screen is sharper and the 3,000 mAh battery lasts longer, but, much like the LG 4K TV (whose new webOS user interface is seamless and intuitive), the G3’s smartest feature is its simplicity. What good is a smart device if it’s not easy to use?
ESPN SPORTSCENTER
MINUTO FOOSBALL TABLE
Stay up to the minute on all the action. This is the hub for sports scores, schedules and breaking news from a variety of leagues and teams.
The perfect fan cave wouldn’t be complete without the perfect table game. This singular foosball table from Teckell boasts a wood frame, chromed steel feet and bars, and a curved glass arena—the perfect way to spend half-time.
CONNECTIVITY • WiFi built in
Three musthave apps to keep you plugged in this season.
LG SMART TV ® WITH webOS • New intuitive Smart TV experience • Natural language recognition • Includes LG’s Magic Remote Voice
TEAM STREAM
An app for the truly dedicated superfan. Hone in on the home team with this Bleacher Report app that gathers info on select teams from top online sources.
G Watch CIRCA BAR CART
Whether you require a celebratory toast or a consolatory cocktail, having your bar on wheels means it need never be out of reach. This cart’s polished and minimalist aluminum frame is the perfect aesthetic counterpart to a modern décor. Available in 79” (79UB9800) or 84” (84UB9800) screen sizes.
W
hen the game is in overtime, your eyes need to be on the big screen. The LG G Watch brings the vitals (time, messages, calls) to your wrist with a buttonless design and Google connectivity activated by voice commands. Go ahead, settle that bet without missing the winning play.
NHL GAMECENTER
The NHL’s official app offers up live stats for every team and player, post-game video highlights and customizable notifications.
LG
& SHARP
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SHARP: THE BOOK FOR MEN FALL/WINTER 2014
Experiences
Ancient History Meets Burning Rubber A field day in Istanbul with BMW’s newest M machines BY
Jeremy Freed
A
t 7,000 RPM, the sound of the BMW M4’s engine is hair-raising. I’m pinned to my seat as the car screeches around a bend in the track. Behind the wheel is Stefan Landmann, a baby-faced Austrian driver who will be racing at the 24 Hours of Nürburgring the following weekend. Right now, he’s showing me what this car is capable of on the Istanbul Park F1 circuit. “170, 180, 190…late turn in, then hit the apex,” he narrates, taking his hands off the wheel for dramatic effect as the speedometer hits 230 in a straightaway. I admit to not taking in much of his instruction— I’m having too much fun being thrown back as the car accelerates, feeling the M4’s tires at the edge of their grip in the turns, its exhaust barking and growling all the way. BMW is excited about the launch of their newest M cars—the M4 coupe and its four-doored sibling, the new M3—so much so that the Munich-based automaker has rented out Istanbul Park for a solid month and flown in some of their best customers to drive them on the circuit. There are dinners and sightseeing tours, too, but for most of these BMW fanboys (and a few girls) the real treat is putting the M cars’ engineering to the test under the tutelage of BMW’s team of track-tested instructors.
Some of my fellow travelers already have two or three BMWs at home. Typical conversations among them, when not comparing notes on Istanbul’s sights, surround paint colours for the new X5M or the benefits of adding an aftermarket computer chip to a third generation M3. Many have already ordered their new M3s and M4s, and a few will be heading to Munich the following week to drive them away. For those who are still on the fence, a very personable salesman from the Munich head office is on site, contracts in hand, while a representative of BMW Individual stands over a table of supple leathers and veneer samples, enticing us with the myriad options for customizing our new Bimmers. In several ways, Istanbul seems like the perfect location for such an event. Worship, exoticism and commerce have been central to the massive city’s appeal for centuries, and it’s precisely those things that drew us, BMW’s most faithful adherents, here today. We had come to prostrate ourselves at the feet of Munich’s newest uber-machines, experience the commingling of East and West. And, perhaps, do a bit of shopping.
S
itting on the balcony of my room at the Four Seasons Hotel at Sultanahmet, looking out over the minarets of the Hagia Sophia, a stone’s throw away, the scale of the city is apparent for the first time since arriving a few hours before—it seems to go on forever. The hotel itself is housed in a 100-year-old building that used to be a prison. It’s much more comfortable now, of course, with large airy rooms, a health club, and a central garden courtyard in which guests may breakfast and retreat from the noise and bustle of the city outside. The history of Istanbul dates back to 600 BCE, when it was settled by Greeks, who ruled until the arrival of Constantine in the third century CE. So taken was the Roman emperor with the place, he declared it the new capital of the Holy Roman Empire and named it Constantinople—after himself. Some centuries later it was taken by the Ottoman Turks who held onto the city for the next few hundred years, building it into “the Paris of the East” and the terminus of the Orient Express. Each group to control Istanbul had bigger plans for it than the last, and each attempted to outdo the other with the size, scope and lavishness of their constructions. The Hagia Sophia, with a dome large enough to fit a medium-sized apartment building inside, was commissioned by Roman Emperor Justinian
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Ancient History Meets Burning Rubber
Experiences 72 and was the grandest church in all of Christendom for 1,000 years or so. When the Ottomans took over, they added minarets and turned it into one of the world’s greatest mosques. Not content with this, Sultan Mehmet I built the so-called Blue Mosque nearby in a bid to outdo Justinian’s handiwork. The stunningly lavish Topkapi Palace is just down the road, and it was home to a succession of Ottoman royals whose exploits make Game of Thrones look like Downton Abbey. There’s a hippodrome where the Romans watched chariot races and a Grand Bazaar—selling everything from Turkish carpets and tea sets to counterfeit sneakers—that has been going strong since the 15th century. The word “overwhelming” doesn’t quite convey the largesse of the place’s history, population and culture—thousands of years of people building, buying, selling, fighting, dreaming and worshipping.
A
fter a couple of hours spent running the cars around the F1 circuit and a light lunch, I’m in the seat of an Austin Yellow M4, hands at nine and three, foot hovering over the gas. As part of this grownup field trip our hosts have set up a slalom cone course and we’re taking turns threading through it. “Okay go!” squawks a dulcet German voice over the radio and I jam my foot on the gas and point the car towards the first gate. With the push of a button on the steering wheel, the M4 snaps into performance mode—steering sharpened, throttle dialed in, exhaust boosted, suspension tightened, traction control scaled back—and it sprints forward like a greyhound after a rabbit with a delightful squealing of tires. The new M3 and M4 are virtually identical machines mechanically, both faster and significantly lighter than the outgoing M3 coupe and sedan they’re replacing. For
2014, horsepower has been boosted to 425, torque to 406 lb-ft and the 0 to 100 sprint shaved down to just 4.1 seconds. This is largely thanks to the use of aluminum, magnesium and carbon-fibre-reinforced plastic, the latter developed for and used extensively in BMW’s new i8 hybrid coupe. Driving dynamics, agility and performance, always mainstays of the M line, were top priorities throughout the design process. I’ll admit that none of this is exactly what I’m thinking of as I rocket through the first set of cones, stand on the brakes and
twist the wheel left. I believe it was more along the lines of, “Wheeeee!” Because today is all about fun, the instructors have turned the slalom into a contest. Rumour has it that the best time so far was by a mysterious Kuwaiti who ran the course in under 23 seconds—a time none of the pro drivers has yet to match. Glory, and my pride on the line, I try to put the instructions coming through the radio to use, lightening on the throttle here, braking sooner there, minimizing understeer and trying to murder as few cones as possible in the process. With a car as powerful and capable as this one, simply jamming on the gas will add a huge burst of power, but won’t help me run faster through the course. This exercise is about finesse, man and machine working together as one, knowing when to let it out and when to rein it in. In the end, I don’t break the 25-second mark, and the prize goes to a good-natured Finn who attributes his success to lots of practice on his M3 at home.
A
t any time of day, the view from the bar at Mikla would be stunning, but at sunset it’s almost magical. From the 18th floor of the Marmara Pera Hotel, ringed by a terrace complete with a wall of blooming jasmine and a bathing pool, Istanbul spreads out in all directions. The view itself would be enough to pack this place, but the restaurant below
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The Chef’s Table
Experience 80
Clockwise from top left: Fresh ricotta with crostini and figs, charred octopus with chickpeas, roast beets with crushed pistachios and balsamic vinegar, risotto with sugar pumpkin and bacon, pinot grigio-braised rabbit with mushrooms and olives, vanilla panna cotta with streusel and caramelised peaches
deserved. The flavour is mild—but when properly treated, the meat is supple and succulent. Remember first that rabbit must be cooked gently—and never quickly. The second key to success is to know that, like most animals, not all parts of it require the same amount of cooking. And when that trait is combined with its leanness, there is not room for error. So, what you need to do is to stagger the timing of its various parts vis-à-vis their arrival in the pot in order for them all to be ready and at their prime at precisely the same time—and monitor it all carefully as they get there (see recipe for details). Do so and you (and, more importantly, your guests) will be rewarded. “I’ll sauté the bacon while you get the risotto started, okay?” It was okay with him. So, with the rabbit simmering, we got started on its principle accompaniment, as Mark told me about his newest business plans—a new branch of McEwan Fine Foods—in downtown Toronto this time, in the TD Centre, alongside Bymark. The emphasis will be on prepared foods—especially on what the industry calls Home Meal Replacement. “Think about all those people passing by as
they head home after work,” he said, with obvious pleasure at the prospect. “All they have to do is email me to say what they want ready and packed to take home at 5:15….”
R
isotto is deceptively tricky. At least it is the first time out, or until you get a feel for it. Because risotto rice differs greatly—not just type to type, but brand to brand and package to package. And developing a feel for how starchy each one is, and how much you need to stir it (or not stir it) in order to arrive at the desired result, is key to turning out a good batch. It is a recipe best learned not from a book, but at someone’s shoulder. Preferably that of someone’s experienced Italian nonna. In McEwan’s case, like so many other Toronto chefs back in the ’80s, he learned the risotto ropes from restaurateur Franco Prevedello. In mine, I learned from McEwan when he came to visit my family cottage on Lake Memphremagog in Quebec. I hope you have similar luck. But whether you do or don’t, remember one important thing: all that talk about it being impossible to reheat risotto is vastly exaggerated. This is simply not true of the stuff prior to the parmesan being added to the mix. So, if
you stop a few minutes shy of that stage, and cool it quickly (in the fridge, spread thin on a baking sheet), you can later pick up where you left off five minutes from the end without any deleterious effect whatsoever. Restaurants do this all the time and you can, too. Secondly, in the finishing, aim for a texture that is luxuriously wet—for the starch in the mixture dries fast on the plate, and creamy becomes sticky and dry before you know it. McEwan was blending our batch like a master: as it made its final approach to a state of al dente doneness, in went the pumpkin purée and the diced pumpkin, and then the bacon. Then the heat went off and the parmesan and butter were stirred in—and it looked perfect. “Taste the seasonings for me?” he asked. It was as perfect as it looked, the smoky bacon and sweet pumpkin perfect counterpoints. “That with roast turkey… delicious!” he said. But turkey was for another day. Today, we still had to sauté the beets, dress them with a balsamic glaze and sprinkle them with pistachios. If the peach-topped panna cotta was overkill, nobody said so. For the complete recipes visit Sharpmagazine.com or download the iPad edition
AUTUMN WINTER 2014
TIGEROFSWEDEN.COM
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SHARP: THE BOOK FOR MEN FALL/WINTER 2014
Experiences
Blind and Thirsty in the Highlands A sensory adventure at one of the world’s great distilleries BY
Shaughnessy Bishop-Stall
T
asting Scotch with the malt master of Glenfiddich is like driving a jeep through the Highlands blindfolded. Well, not exactly. But those being the two things I’ve attempted over the past 18 hours, and me being a writer and drinker by trade, I’m trying to turn your everyday synchronicity into meaningful analogy—at the same time as I’m trying not to crash. “Chicane!” shouts my guide in the passenger seat. Never mind that he’s seated on the wrong side of the jeep. Never mind that his Scottish brogue is so thick I can barely tell when he’s saying “left” or “right.” Never mind that I’d been tasting somewhat enthusiastically the previous evening and was blindfolded…it’s this word that makes me stop; standing on the brakes, skidding through the mud, I turn my head to face him (a meaningless thing to do when you can’t see). “Chicane?” I exclaim, into the darkness. To my limited knowledge it’s either a precise Celtic directive or a racing term meaning alternating curves, or both—but certainly no help to a blindfolded Canadian driving a jeep through a field. Officially, I’m here, along with a dozen or so other journalists from every corner of the globe, to attend Glenfiddich’s 125th birthday party—a three-day celebration of the Grant family’s unique Scotch-making history and
also, it seems, the intricacies of our basic human senses. For two days we’ve been touring Speyside— the rough-hewn yet majestic highland home of Grant’s, Glenfiddich and Balvenie—seeing where it all comes from, hearing the swish of the Robbie Dhu Spring that feeds it, running our hands over the oak casks, nosing the vapours, then tasting and dining and drinking and tasting some more. But, as far as I can tell, only the young writer for The Spirits Digest in Taiwan, who’s been to over 50 distilleries (including Glenfiddich five times) has any real idea what he’s been taking notes about—the rest of us are asking silly questions, scribbling things down and pretending to “taste,” when really we just know how to drink. And now, on this our final morning, we’ve been placed by our hosts—just for the apparent fun of it—in the hands of one of those corporate team-building companies, Scottish style. So, without signing a waiver or showing a driver’s licence (one writer from Chicago has never even been behind the wheel before), we are steering blind through the Highlands. Yet I don’t think the travel writer who got in the jeep before me was even joking when he said, “If you’re blind, your other senses get all heightened, right? I’m going with that!” He stood on the gas for a few feet, cranked the wheel, eased off and then inched through the Scottish dirt at about three miles an hour. As it turns out, if the windows are up and you’ve only been blind a few seconds, your other four senses don’t tell you much at all. We were laughing at him, for saying what he said, and for driving so slowly. But now I’m in the driver’s seat and have no idea if I’m even moving or not. “Out you go!” says my guide after another few minutes. At least I think that’s what he says, and I open the door. He bellows something and grabs my arm. Apparently, we are still moving. I take off the blindfold, pull the emergency brake, and get out. “Totally easy,” I announce to the others, and now it’s their turn to laugh at me. I don’t know if it’s the whisky or the altitude but I’ve been doing and saying stupid things for days. But sometimes that just happens, especially if you’re like me—a guy with a big mouth who tends to know absolutely nothing about a lot of the things he loves the most, then ends up sitting next to the quiet guy who knows absolutely everything. Last night, that was Brian Kinsman, the malt master of the world’s most awarded and
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Experiences
The House of Joe A personal tour through the home, art collection and shoe closet of a Canadian fashion icon BY
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
Yang-Yi Goh
Liam Goslett
LEFT
“About 25 years ago, maybe longer, on my first trip to England, I went down to Jermyn Street and bought my very first pair of slippers from Tricker’s. I’ve been wearing and ordering them ever since— nowadays, I have an embarrassingly massive collection. I love the bit of panache it brings to a look. There’s an old world glamour to them, a sense of casualness, an almost ‘I don’t care’ type of attitude.”
J
oe Mimran brings his work home with him. The same smart, stylish simplicity that’s been a crucial tenet of every brand the 61-year-old impresario has founded in the last 30 years—from Alfred Sung to Club Monaco to Joe Fresh—is, perhaps unsurprisingly, present in virtually every square inch of his leafy Toronto estate. “It’s a sense of enduring classics,” Mimran says of his approach to design, be it clothing or interiors. “How do you keep reinventing
them so they feel modern? It’s usually silhouette, finish, and attention to detail that gets you there as opposed to a lot of trickiness.” In the case of his 4,500-square-foot Forest Hill house, Mimran got “there” by keeping the fixtures understated and allowing his extensive collection of contemporary art and antique oddities to truly shine. The result is a home that’s full of flair and effervescent personality while still showing a great deal of tasteful restraint—just like the man himself.
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Experiences 88
01
“I’ve had this chair since before we built the house. It was carved from a solid piece of Indonesian teak by a guy named Jérôme Seguin, who’s done work for Ralph Pucci.”
02
01
02
“The white shirt is what I started my career on. It’s iconic to me. I give a lot of them away because I’m constantly updating the body—making it a little shorter, changing the shade—but at any given time, I have about 50 of them in my closet here, and probably another 50 at my place in New York.”
03
03
“I collect vintage sunglasses. It’s always a treat to find pairs from the ‘60s or ‘70s—they’re hard to come by these days. My eyeglasses, which I love, were made for me especially by Oliver Goldsmith.”
RIGHT
“Back in 2000, we were on a spur-ofthe-moment, five-day trip to Marrakech when I spotted this table in an antique store. I fell in love with it and had to rescue it and bring it home with us.”
www.hamiltonwatch.com
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The House of Joe
Experiences 90 04
05
04
“It’s become a little passé, but I still love to handwrite notes. I keep notecards and stationery in an Hermes box on my desk.”
05
06
07
“This was drawn by the German artist Stephan Balkenhol. He does these sketches in chalk, and I was immediately drawn to this one—to me, it’s a perfect representation of my aesthetic, from the simple black and white tones to the timeless striped tee.”
06
“The staircase was one of the toughest things to get right. I wanted it to be twisted like an old Parisian stairwell, and it took several attempts to get the curvature just as I’d imagined it. Blackand-white photography, meanwhile, was one of my first loves. It’s where my passion for art collecting really began, just by wanting to own work from the talented friends I worked with, like Dick Avedon.”
INTO THE DREAM
07
“My advice for novice wine collectors? Buy up as many 2009 bottles as you can. They’re highly rated and soft enough to drink right now, but they’ll cellar for at least 15-20 years.”
PAN EUROP
AUTOMATIC SWISS MADE
Bayview Village Shopping Centre 647.346.2176 www.cupidodesigns.com
Markville Mall 905.477.1273 www.loro.ca
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SHARP: THE BOOK FOR MEN FALL/WINTER 2014
Experiences
Bespoke Biturbo Inside the 2015 Maserati Quattroporte Ermenegildo Zegna Limited Edition BY
Coleman Molnar
I
talians don’t subscribe to the belief that something that is built for speed cannot also be built for comfort. Or vice versa. Maserati and Ermenegildo Zegna—two storied Italian brands: one a 104-year-old suit-making giant and the other a 100-yearold car manufacturer known for speed and devilish good looks—have come together to create an automobile worthy of the world’s most exclusive collections. I’m in Italy, sitting in the driver’s seat of the
2015 Maserati Quattroporte Ermenegildo Zegna Limited Edition in front of the Zegna Wool Mill, surrounded by buttery leather, soft wool and buffed-to-perfection wood veneer, feeling as cool as Marcello Mastroianni himself. Rob Allen, my personal tour guide and director of product planning for Maserati North America, is sitting beside me. He’s pointing to the badge on the dash, which reads Limited Edition: 1 of 100. The winding alpine roads of northwestern Italy provided the perfect testing grounds for the 530 horsepower and 524 lb-ft of torque offered by the 2015 Quattroporte’s V8, twin-turbo engine, which growled and spat like a mountain lion as we fled to the densely forested mountainside. My first impression was that the cabin was likely the most sumptuous place I had ever sat—every surface and touch point designed to impress the senses. My second impression was that it drove like a bat out of somewhere it no longer wanted to be—fast, really fast. My foot is heavy on the pedal and the speedometer is moving like it’s angry at all numbers under 100. I ask Allen if he’s comfortable. “I can slow down...” “Oh, no,” he says from the passenger seat. “Don’t slow down, please.” He is wearing a big, confident grin, looking relaxed and comfortable in his black pinstriped Zegna suit. We zigzag our way up the narrow mountain road and I switch to sport mode and play with the elongated paddle shifters, which are made from forged aluminum and are cool to
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Automobiles
The Aesthete Audi’s TT is a design icon in the making BY
Matt Bubbers
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The Aesthete
PHILLIP’S SHAVERS
T
he R8 supercar is top of mind when Audi comes up in conversation, in no small part due to its role as Robert Downey Jr.’s ride in Iron Man, a stroke of masterful product placement if ever there was one. Not since Dustin Hoffman and his little red Alfa Romeo Duetto has a character been more perfectly matched to his car. But before the mid-engined R8 came along, there was another car that put Audi on the map, defining the automaker as a design and technology powerhouse. It was the TT, and it did it all without the help of a crime-fighting billionaire playboy.
Go back and look at the original Audi TT from 1998. Or go back even further and look at the concept, which debuted at the Frankfurt motor show in 1995. It’s nearly 20 years old now, but it still looks striking and modern, the mark of any design icon. Made up of three clean arcs—hood, roofline and trunk—the TT challenged what was possible for a compact sports car. Until the TT appeared, sports cars fit one of two moulds: boxy and conservative or amorphous melted blobs. On that day in ’95 in Frankfurt, a design paradigm shifted. In
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Automobiles 106
734 QUEEN STREET WEST Toronto, M6J 1E9
swept strict geometrical shapes and a focus on coherent, complete design. These trends are still shaping cars 20 years later. The design team on the 2016 TT drew heavily from the original. The three-arc shape is still there but is now elongated, giving the car a more athletic stance. The wheels have been pushed out towards the corners of the body to improve ride comfort. The front of the hood is pushed down lower, with Audi’s four rings placed on the nose rather than the grille—a subtle nod to the R8. Where as it was the exterior of the original that broke new ground, it’s the interior of the new TT that deserves distinction. Never has so much technology been so neatly stuffed into such a compact car. A virtual cockpit—similar to that found in the Lamborghini Huracán—turns the entire instrument cluster into a configu-
Specifications: POWER: 230 or 310 hp ENGINE: 2.0-litre turbo I4 GEARBOX: 6-speed manual or dual-clutch PRICE: $52,000 (est.)
rable digital display. This can give you the information you want, when you want it, and hide the rest. All of which unclutters the interior by making a large central display and a plethora of buttons unnecessary. As for power, the TT will have more than ever. The 2.0-litre TFSI motor produces 230 horsepower, but it’s the TTS with its 310 hp and 280 lb-ft of torque that will steal the show. Loaded with a six-speed, dual-clutch transmission and quattro all-wheel drive, the TTS will be able to run from 0 to 100 km/h in just 4.7 seconds. But, as impressive as those numbers are, the TT has never really been about all-out performance. Working hard to make the all-new 2016 TT faster, lighter and more frugal is almost a thankless task. It is—has always been—a car for those driven by design.
OPENING SOON : VAUGHAN MILLS
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Automobiles
The Return of the Coupe The 2015 Lexus RC F marks the resurrection of an endangered species BY
Matt Bubbers
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SHARP: THE BOOK FOR MEN FALL/WINTER 2014
Automobiles
Fortune Favours the Brave With the arrival of the S 63 AMG Coupe, Mercedes-Benz throws down the gauntlet BY
George Zicarelli
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Fortune Favours the Brave
Automobiles 118
SHANGRI LA
and an abundance of next-gen safety technology. And because it’s a product of the speed-hungry tinkerers at AMG, there’s a 5.5-litre, twin-turbo V8 tucked under its rippling hood. Curves come at you right quick in the S 63 AMG Coupe. They disappear just as quickly, too. Lateral forces, it seems, are not everyone’s cup of tea—they can spill cups of tea, in fact—and there are plenty of them to experience with 585 horsepower and 664 lb-ft of torque at your disposal. So Mercedes-Benz engineered a curve tilting function into the vehicle’s suspension. When activated, sensors on the vehicle “see” bends in the road and pre-adjust the suspension automatically and continuously in fraction-of-a-second increments. The car leans into turns like a motorcycle. The result is that you’re treated to a more comfortable ride; you don’t feel corners tugging you sideways, and your tea remains in its mug where it belongs.
Specifications: POWER: 585 hp ENGINE: 5.5-litre twin-turbo V8 GEARBOX: 7-speed auto PRICE: $174,000 (est.)
As if that weren’t enough, Mercedes added Swarovski crystals—a total of 94 to be exact—inside the LED high-performance headlamps: 17 in each of the flare-shaped daytime running lamps and 30 in each of the turn-indicator lamps. As brilliant as they shine when in use, they’re more spectacular at rest. When the sunlight catches them just right, the S 63 AMG Coupe’s eyes come to life. Inside, the seats give you a hot-stone massage, while the ambitiously named Magic Sky Control panoramic roof gives you shade on demand by altering the transparency of the glass. And just to make sure you don’t get all soft sitting inside the S 63 AMG Coupe, the brawny growl of the V8 biturbo is a constant reminder of the Titanic levels of torque at your disposal. You can also take it as an audible reminder that those left standing on the winning side of history are usually the ones itching for a fight.
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Automobiles
The Story of the Hurricane Techno-fied and smoothed down, make no mistake that Lamborghini’s newest offering is still a fighting bull BY
Matt Bubbers
124
BRIEFCASES
SHARP: THE BOOK FOR MEN FALL/WINTER 2014
A self-respecting gent does not sling a messenger bag across his body. He carries a briefcase, one with a certain weight—physical and metaphorical— reflective of his commitment to professionalism.
Style
01 02 03 04
01
04
Essentials It’s the little details that make the man PHOTOGRAPHY BY
STYLING BY
Liam Mogan
Joanne Jin
02
03
Swaine Adeney Brigg, $3,995 at Betty Hemmings Globe-Trotter, $1,595 at Betty Hemmings Salvatore Ferragamo, $1,700 at Harry Rosen Gucci, $1,850
04
STAINLESS STEEL WATCHES
01
In terms of versatility, durability and timelessness among wristwatches, stainless steel remains the standard-bearer. Invest in one, and it will become a mainstay in your timepiece rotation for years to come. 01 02 03 04 05 06
05
Raymond Weil Toccata, $995 Movado Circa, $995 88 Rue du Rhone Double 8 Origin Chronograph, $735 Zenith Pilot Big Date Special, $7,900 Gc HOMME, $850 by Gc Tissot T-Tempo Automatic, $825
02
03
06
Cashmere tweed threepiece suit ($4,500), cotton shirt ($295) and silk tie ($125) by Garrison Bespoke; silk pocket square ($100) by Seaward and Stearn at Garrison Bespoke.
ABOVE Wool suit ($2,995), wool cashmere sweater ($845), cotton shirt ($395), silk tie ($195) and silk pocket square ($125) by Ermenegildo Zegna, at Holt Renfrew.
RIGHT Glen plaid wool suit ($2,195), cotton shirt ($250), cotton scarf ($270) and leather weekender ($1,895) by John Varvatos; linen pocket square ($130) by John Varvatos Star USA; leather shoes ($750) by Gucci. Grooming by Claudine Baltazar for Redken/MAC Cosmetics/Plutino Group Photographer’s Asisstants: Warren Hrycun & James Michael Chiang
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SHARP: THE BOOK FOR MEN FALL/WINTER 2014
Paco Rabanne
Style
INVICTUS A fragrance tailored for victory, Invictus achieves a sensation that is as sweet as a win and as spicy as the competition. The seductive quality comes from a blend of guaiac wood, ambergis and patchouli, while invigorating, fresh grapefruit peel and bay leaf notes take the fragrance to the finish line. ($90, 100 ml)
Artful Scents
Perfectly composed fall fragrances BY
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
STYLING BY
Laura Weber
Adrian Armstrong
Joanne Jin Clockwise: Sterling silver candlestick holder ($995/pair), sterling silver engraved tray ($125) and ivory handle magnifying glass ($95), at Cynthia Findlay; fountain pen ($535) by Montegrappa, at Laywine’s; white glazed porcelain skull ($2,050) by Nymphenburg, at Avenue Road.
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Humphrey Bogart
SHARP: THE BOOK FOR MEN FALL/WINTER 2014
SEE DOUBLE
Style
THE double-breasted silhouette is in the midst of a roaring comeback, but, as of yet, the revival hasn’t stretched very far into the realm of black tie. It’s time for that to change. Bogie knew it well: a smartly buttoned-up, double-breasted tux inspires a great deal of poise in its wearer. You’ll stand up straighter, feel more assertive, and look more sophisticated than ever. And, for the time being, you’re likely to be the only man in the room wearing one. Take advantage before that’s no longer the case.
Formal Language Lessons on black tie from the men who wore it best
BY
Yang-Yi Goh
Paul Newman
CANADA’S MAGAZINE FOR SOPHISTICATED WOMEN
BE YOURSELF ONE thing you’ll note in all of these photographs—most especially in this one of the interminably cool Paul Newman—is that the men pictured look relaxed, at ease, comfortable. They look like themselves. And that’s not always an easy thing to do in a tuxedo. There’s a tendency to think of formal wear as just that: formal and stiff, a uniformed vacuum of personality. In truth, black tie’s simplicity forces you to show the world exactly what kind of man you are. Let yourself shine through, or it’ll swallow you whole. More to the point: if you’re wearing a tux, there’s likely good reason to celebrate and let loose. Embrace it.
ST YLE & FASHION
FA L L 2 0 1 4
AVA IL ABL E O N NEWS S TANDS S EPTEMB ER 29TH VISI T US O NL INE AT S S TYL EMAG AZ INE.C O M
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SHARP: THE BOOK FOR MEN FALL/WINTER 2014
Style
Rolex
MILGAUSS
The Insiders
While sometimes eclipsed by their brands’ more famous pieces, these watches are equally worthy of a place in your collection BY
Justin Mastine Frost
M
ost of the world’s leading watch brands have been in the game for a century or more, and each one has an iconic piece or two in its repertoire that is immediately familiar to anyone with an interest in watches. These collectible classics (many of which trace their roots back to the dawn of the wristwatch era) have become the go-to choices for those looking to invest in a serious timepiece. While there is something hugely appealing about acquiring a watch that is instantly recognizable, these watch manufacturers also have a number of noteworthy pieces that fly under the radar. Aesthetically refined and mechanically unique, these watches will both earn you the respect of serious collectors and the envy of style-minded friends.
classic Rolex Submariner may be the brand’s most visible model, but the Milgauss’s green sapphire crystal and lightning-bolt seconds hand make it one of the most contemporary pieces in the brand’s lineup. This past year saw the unveiling of a stunning blue dial in addition to the standard black-and-white offering. Style aside, this elegant piece’s roots go back to the 1950s when Rolex developed the Milgauss for scientists and engineers working in areas of high magnetic interference. The completely in-house manufactured movement has been continually improved upon over the years, and, as always, is designed to remain highly accurate in any environment. ($8,850)
THE
Longines
Concord
AVIGATION
C2 BIG DATE
LONGINES has become very well known for building stylish dress watches and rough-and-rugged sport pieces in recent years, yet people often forget their history of involvement with the aviation industry. You may be surprised to learn that Longines was actually the official timekeeper for Charles Lindbergh’s transatlantic flight in 1927. The latest addition to their Avigation series is a throwback to a watch originally designed for the British military in the 1950s. The new model contains an automatic movement with a 48-hour power reserve and a second-time-zone complication. ($2,400)
SINCE 1908,
Concord has maintained a focus on creating design-forward timepieces of exceptional quality. The C1 collection has a huge presence on the wrist, and its industrial-meets-futurist design stands out from the crowd. Then you have the C2 Big Date, which lives on the other end of the spectrum. This slim, 43 mm quartz-powered unit’s lugless design means that although its aesthetics are understated, there is much detail to be admired on closer inspection. ($2,800)
166
Wool-mohair blend tuxedo ($3,580) by Louis Vuitton; cotton shirt ($285) and silk bow tie ($95) by Eton of Sweden; silk scarf ($350) by Jil Sander, at Nicolas; cotton pocket square ($60) by Tiger of Sweden; Oyster Perpetual Datejust watch ($8,500) by Rolex.
SHARP: THE BOOK FOR MEN FALL/WINTER 2014
Style
High Contrast
Sometimes, a simple palette is all you need to make the most sophisticated of statements PHOTOGRAPHY BY
STYLING BY
Kourosh Keshiri
Serge Kerbel
Leather jacket ($2,295) by HUGO; alpaca sweater ($335) and polyester-blend pants ($215) by Diesel; nubuck leather shoes ($190) by ECCO; Marine Chronometer watch ($8,580) by Ulysse Nardin, at Bandiera Jewellers.
Virgin wool-blend suit ($750) by Bugatti; cotton shirt ($220) by Strellson; merino cotton scarf ($175) by Eton of Sweden; polyester pocket square ($55) and glasses ($265) by BOSS; stainless-steel watch ($6,600) by Bulgari, at Bandiera Jewellers.
Lamb leather jacket ($1,795) and cottonblend shirt ($225) by BOSS; cotton jeans ($225) by Rogue. Stylist Assistant: Sarah Kelpin Grooming: Claudine Baltazar for Dermalogica/Kevin Murphy/Plutino Group
Stay Sharp All Year Long DRESS BET TER NOW!
LO O K B E T T E R • F E E L B E T T E R • K N OW M O R E SEPT/OCT 2014
SHARPMAGAZINE.COM
JAKE
GYLLENHAAL GETS REAL THE BEST REASON TO
SPEND $300K ON A CAR
GUNS, DOPE AND WHISKEY THE TRUE STORY OF
THE TRAILER PARK BOYS
THE FALL STYLE ISSUE P A G E S
O F
EXPERT ADVICE ON
SUITS WATCHES
BOOTS AND SO MUCH MORE
I N C L U D I N G
THE MOST
STYLISH HOCKEY
PLAYER IN THE GAME P
L
U
S
A S T RO N AU T
CHRIS HADFIELD’S
SECRETS OF THE
UNIVERSE
44
GOLF GUIDE
FATHER’S DAY GUIDE LOOK BETTER • FEEL BETTER • KNOW MORE JUNE/JULY 2014
SHARPMAGAZINE.COM
MARK WAHLBERG
OF THE
GREATEST
GIFTS FOR MEN STEAKS,
COCKTAILS
MEANS BUSINESS
THE WAR
ON MEN
ARE WE GETTING THE SHAFT?
BLOODY GOOD HOW TO MAKE THE PERFECT CAESAR
& SURFER
GIRLS:
DO L.A. THE
RIGHT WAY BLOCKBUSTER SEASON:
ALL THE MOVIES
YOU MUST SEE
(AND A FEW YOU REALLY SHOULDN’T)
THE YEAR’S COOLEST
WATCHES
LOOK BETTER • FEEL BETTER • KNOW MORE M AY
2 0 1 4
S H A R P F O R M E N . C O M
JON HAMM IS BATTING 1,000 JASON COLLINS, MICHAEL SAM SPORTS HERO AND THE RISE OF THE NEW
EATING
19
WHAT TO WEAR NOW!
WAYS TO:
KILL IT ON THE GREENS
LO O K B E T T E R • F E E L B E T T E R • K N OW M O R E
f e a t u r i n g
THE PGA’S PLAYBOY
COM PLETE
STYLE MANUAL
MILLIONAIRE
INSIDE
PUNCHY
5th
KICKS
THE SEASON’S
I S S U E
HOTTEST
SHOES THE SUMMER’S
BEST BEER ISN’T BEER
LAS VEGAS
FALL/ WINTER 2014
p l u s
FISTFIGHTS,
MOTORCYCLES AND OTHER WAYS TO
PROVE YOUR
STYLE • SUITS
MANHOOD
ACCES SORIES TIMEPIECES TRENDS • TRAVEL AUTOMOBILES ADVICE
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SHARP: THE BOOK FOR MEN FALL/WINTER 2014
The
Manual HO W T O D O E V E R Y T H I NG B E T T E R
Grooming
Health
181
182
183
Etiquette
Food
Drinks
Tech
Skills
Culture
180
184
186 192
Sports
188
194
Travel
190
M
Grooming
Health HOW TO
V I S U A L D ATA
Smell Like a Wood-Paneled Den
Your Beard: A Study
THE SCENTS YOU NEED TO WEAR THIS SEASON TO SMELL PERFECTLY SOPHISTICATED AND CLASSICALLY MASCULINE
THINKING OF GROWING A WINTER BEARD? USE THIS TIMELINE TO KNOW WHAT TO EXPECT
Choose Your Next Haircut 1
2
3
ARMANI CODE
GIVENCHY GENTLEMEN ONLY
TOM FORD TOBACCO VANILLE
The Scent: Wood A throwback to the fragrance house’s iconic scent from the '70s, this combines notes of cedar with just the right amount of patchouli and vetiver.
The Scent: Smoke This perfect winter fragrance combines the earthiness of smoke with the sweetness of vanilla. It’s as classic as Harris tweed and twice as dignified.
The Scent: Leather The notes of leather should be subtle and nostalgic (you don’t want to smell like a tannery). Armani Code layers citrus and florals on first, before adding the stately finish of leather at the end.
4
5
DOLCE & GABBANA THE ONE
COMMODITY PAPER
The Scent: Scotch Like a good single malt itself, a fragrance reminiscent of whisky should be complex and sweet, with a warm finish. The One, by Dolce & Gabbana is perfect in that way.
The Scent: Books A bit musty, but with a mannered sweetness that transcends the sum of its parts, Paper recreates the feeling of a library with hints of cedar, amber and sandalwood. —GREG HUDSON
We asked Jacob Rozenberg, American Crew All Star Challenge Canadian Champion 2013, for his advice on the best way to style your locks this fall. THE CUT The classic 1940s shape continues to look great on just about everyone. Depending on your growth patterns, there are two primary options with this look: for a progressive look, fade the sides from short to long; for a classic look, leave the sides longer and slick them back. Part the top cleanly to the side or to the back. TYLING For a sleek look, blow dry and use American Crew’s Light Hold Styling Gel for added thickness and control, and a round brush to give volume and direction. Once the hair is dry, work a quarter-sized amount of American Crew Defining Paste into your hand and work into your hair. Then use your fingers and palms to guide the hair into place. For a more polished look, use a comb. For a more devil-may-care appearance, use Crew's Boost for definition and your fingers for shaping. Then apply Crew Fiber, which is a matte paste that creates a more natural look.
DAY 2 THE SHADOW Looks like you fell asleep on a sheet of newspaper. DAY 7 THE SCRUFF Your face is a sandpapery weapon. Hey, is that Patrick Dempsey? DAY 12 THE DECISION Where scruff meets beard. It probably won’t look good, but you must hold fast.
180 BFM.F/W.14.MANUAL
Cooper, B
Hemsworth, C
>
IT CAN BE HARD to keep up with your regular fitness routine on the road, but these exercises (25 repetitions each) will keep you in tip-top shape without ever having to leave your room. —LANCE CHUNG
BED PUSH-UPS
CHAIR DIPS
BICYCLE CRUNCHES
MOUNTAIN CLIMBERS
LUNGES
Work your upper body and core by utilizing your bed for this take on the classic exercise. Position your toes on the edge of the bed and extend your body out so your hands are on the floor in a push-up position, shoulder width apart.
Position yourself so you’re facing away from a chair with your palms gripping the edge of the seat. Extend your legs out, feet on the ground, straighten your back and dip down until your elbows are at a 90-degree angle. Then lift yourself back up.
Lie on the bed on your back and, with your hands clasped behind your head, bend your knees to 90 degrees. Engage your core by lifting your upper body and twisting your left shoulder into your right knee while your left leg extends out fully, then vice versa.
This is a great exercise for working your abdominal muscles. Start by placing your hands and toes on the floor, similar to the top of a push-up position, and bring one knee to your chest. Quickly alternate back and forth with your legs.
With no equipment required, the lunge is one of the easiest and most effective leg workouts you can do outside of the gym. Take one large step forward and bend your knee to a 90-degree angle. Step back and do the same with your other leg.
HOW TO
DAY 30 THE ALMOST COMPLIMENT “Hey, you’re growing a beard, aren’t you!”
DAY 50 FULLBLOWN FACE SHRUBBERY Lush, thick and masculine as a grizzly riding a chopper. Well done, sir. Bale, C
Exercise in Your Hotel Room
Q&A
DAY 20 THE COMMITMENT The arrival of patches calls your decision into question. Stick to your guns, man.
V I S U A L D ATA
Long Hair Done Right
HOW TO
DAY 1 THE PREPUBESCENT Naked softness. Rub it against the faces of others with abandon.
HOW TO
BEFORE YOU HEAD TO YOUR BARBER EMPTY-HANDED, THERE ARE A FEW THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW.
M
DAY 40 THE ITCH Resist the urge to scratch. Instead: brush and moisturize.
What is gout and why do you have it? WHAT IS IT? Almost one million Canadians suffer from gout, a form of seriously bad inflammatory arthritis. It’s caused by crystals of uric acid collecting around joints, particularly the big toe, causing hotness, redness and excruciating pain. WHY ME? The crystals congregate because, as you get older, and possibly fatter and probably more alcoholaddled, your body can’t properly process and get rid of uric acid. Gout also runs in families. (Thanks, Dad.) And while you can’t cure it, you can treat it by avoiding high-protein foods, cutting back on the booze and drinking a lot of water. Sure, not much fun—but it beats having gout. —DOUG WALLACE
WORK OUT LIKE IT’S 1978: THE INCREDIBLE AIRDYNE BIKE
The Schwinn Airdyne Bike is not a new technology. It’s been around since 1978, when its simplicity, relatively low price and effectiveness made it the cardio machine of choice for many of the new breed of headband-wearing, spandex-clad workout fanatics. It went away for a while, displaced by more complicated stationary bikes, treadmills and elliptical machines. Now it’s back—and it’s still one of the most efficient ways to work out at home. Here’s why: —LAURA WEBER
DIVERSE WORKOUT Activate your upper and lower body simultaneously, or isolate either your arms or your legs. ADVANCED MONITORING The LCD computer displays key data like speed, RPM, distance, time and calories, and has a unique RevMeter RPM gauge that’s perfect for interval training. BUILT-IN FAN The real genius of the Airdyne bike is that the harder you work out, the harder the bike works to keep you cool. WIND RESISTANCE TECHNOLOGY Basically, the harder you pedal, the higher the resistance becomes. Major pain and killer calves. RECLINING WHEELS Easily stored away for small living spaces—although it does make a great conversation piece.
—BIANCA TEIXEIRA
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Etiquette
Etiquette V I S U A L D ATA
First, you need to find a comfortable position for both the person receiving the massage and yourself. A bed will be your best option, but just remember why you’re there.
The Apology: A Primer
The most crucial tool for giving a good massage is a great body oil. Natural oils such as avocado oil or grapeseed oil work best. Avoid body lotions as they tend to dry up quickly.
A MISTAKE WAS MADE. DID YOU DO IT?
Yes
No
ENJOY YOUR CLEAR CONSCIENCE
WAS YOUR WIFE INVOLVED?
Yes
WAS YOUR CHILD INVOLVED?
Yes
WAS IT PARTIALLY HER FAULT?
POUR HER A GLASS OF WINE
Give a Back Massage
No
POUR HER A GLASS OF WINE
Yes
HOW TO
>
THE ADVANTAGES TO BEING ABLE to give a good massage are obvious. The disadvantages? Well, worst-case scenario: you might be forced into becoming her personal masseur. We sought out Toronto Four Seasons Spa director and massage therapist Carlos Calvo Rodriguez to find out how to give her a massage to remember. —LW
WERE THERE TEARS?
No
No
PAT ON SHOULDER AND MENTION "SPILLLED MILK"
Yes
WAS THERE BLOOD?
Yes
HOW MANY VOWS WERE BROKEN?
No
APOLOGIZE ON THE WAY TO THE HOSPITAL. YOU'RE A DAD, NOT A DOCTOR.
WAS YOUR CONSTITUENCY INVOLVED?
No
No
KISS IT BETTER
ONE TO FIVE
HAVE YOU DONE IT BEFORE?
Yes
ZERO
POUR HER A GLASS OF WINE
PLAY IT SAFE WITH A FRESH BOUQUET OF FLOWERS AND SOME HEARTFELT WORDS
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SO YOU FORGOT TO GO SHOPPING. STEADY ON—IT’S NOT TOO LATE TO FIX THIS.
No
YOU'VE OFFENDED A STRANGER! A SHORT, POLITE "PARDON ME" WILL SUFFICE
LIE
No
TIME TO DO SOME SOUL SEARCHING AND ASK YOURSELF WHY
For a little ambience, play some soft background music—Frank (Ocean or Sinatra) will work nicely. Lastly, follow your instincts and remember that the experience should be relaxing for the both of you.
ARE THERE PHOTOS?
RECIPIENT: YOUR KID Children are easily fooled. You may use this to your advantage.
ASK FORGIVENESS AND BE PATIENT
OWN YOUR MISTAKE AND MAKE A SINCERE PUBLIC APOLOGY AND DON'T DO IT AGAIN— THAT'S JUST ASKING FOR TROUBLE
Timeframe One Day: There’s still an opportunity to give an experience, like tickets to a football or basketball game. Buy tickets online, print, envelope and you’re done. Best. Dad. Ever. One Hour: Tell them that this year, as a special treat, they get to pick out their own present. But be prepared— like their old man, they’ve got expensive taste.
Guide to buying diamonds
Spend extra time on pressure points like the upper back and shoulders, using your thumbs to knead the muscles. For extra points, massage the feet, hands and skull, which hold extra heat and contain many nerves, allowing for a great release of tension.
Buy a Last-Minute Gift Yes
HOW TO
Heat the oil by rubbing it in your hands and begin with slow, gentle strokes to warm up the muscles. The most basic technique is called “effleurage,” which means to give long, slow strokes. Keep this in mind and use it to transition between other techniques like kneading and vibration (aka karate chops).
HOW TO
Yes
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RECIPIENT: YOUR WIFE Exercise caution—your next move could mean the difference between sleeping on the couch and being, ahem, handsomely rewarded.
RECIPIENT: YOUR BOSS Don’t stress too much—he never got you anything for your birthday after all— but in this case, it’s the thought and effort that counts more than anything.
Timeframe One Day: Reserve at her favourite restaurant. All booked up? Begging sometimes works—as does a handsome tip to the maître d’ if he comes through for you. Order flowers. Buy champagne. Pour your feelings into a card. Done and done.
Timeframe One day: Organize a group gift with your colleagues. Scrape up as much cash as possible and buy a gift card for his favourite golf course online. Get a tasteful blank card and sign it “from the team.” He’ll know it was from you because you’re the one delivering it, but you’ll also come off as a team player.
One Hour: Want to know a secret? There are very few women on this planet who wouldn’t swoon at the presentation of a blue Tiffany & Co. box. Call ahead and let them know you’re coming and how much you’re prepared to spend. And don’t cheap out—she’ll know.
One hour: No sweat. Get to the liquor store and purchase her favourite bottle of Scotch or something nice from Bordeaux or Piedmonte. You do know what he drinks, right? —JAYNE HEATON
THERE ARE FOUR WORDS you need to know when buying a diamond. Luckily, they’re alliterated for easy recall: cut, clarity, carat and colour. Cut The cut is the shape of the diamond. Cuts include: round, pear, emerald and princess (square). Clarity The clarity grade of a diamond is determined by the number and visibility of flaws. These can take the form of pinpoints, carbon, bubbles, cracks, scratches and chips. The best grade is F for flawless with IF having only slight external flaws that are invisible to the naked eye. Carat The number of carats in a ring is the weight measure of a diamond’s size. One carat is equal to one-fifth of a gram. The carat weight is the most significant factor in determining the price of a diamond. Just don’t get it confused with karat, which refers to gold. Colour The colour scale extends from D (colourless) to Z (yellow). The less colour a diamond has, the more expensive (and desirable) it is. If you need proof, try passing off a yellow diamond on your next anniversary. —BT BFM.F/W.14.MANUAL 185
SHARP: THE BOOK FOR MEN FALL/WINTER 2014
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TAILORING
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Style Manual OUTERWEAR
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FOOTWEAR
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TROUSERS
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TOPS
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ACCESSORIES
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TIMEPIECES
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Contents
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The Style Manual
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Tailoring
EDITOR'S LETTER
197
Tailoring 201
The Dark Suit Rises
Outerwear 205
Footwear 209
Trousers 213
Tops 217
Accessories 221
Timepieces
Ask “How,” Not “What” Whenever I tell people what I do for a living, they ask a lot of the same questions. Things like, “Really? They pay you to do that?” or “Can you get me a date with a swimsuit model?” Most often, though, the question is, “So, what’s new this season?” The funny thing about menswear is that the answer, invariably, is “Not much.” Yes, the pages ahead are crammed full of the latest trends, hottest designers and dapper looks that are defining cool right now. But a lot of the actual stuff—the suits, sweaters, coats and boots—will seem familiar to you. That’s because, beyond a tweak or two to the colours or fabrics or silhouettes, men’s fashion doesn’t really change a whole lot from year to year, season to season. Quite honestly, there hasn’t been a dramatic shift in the types of clothes men wear in decades. What does change is how we wear these garments. Above all else, looking good depends upon what you bring to the table: the confidence you carry yourself with; the pride you take in getting dressed each morning; the personal statements you choose to make through your clothes. As always, the Style Manual is here to be your comprehensive guide to the world of men’s fashion, to educate you on what’s in, what’s not and how to pull it all together. We’re your ringside coach, right behind you every step of the way. But ultimately, it’s up to you to take our advice and put your own spin on it—to define for yourself how you want to be seen. And no, sorry, I can’t get you that date.
They say the classics never go out of style, but that’s not entirely true. Sometimes, the classics are treated with all the respect of a Michael Bay flick at the Oscars. Take the black suit, for instance. It's about as fundamental as menswear gets, a can’t-miss ensemble that guys like Ali and Brando took turns looking as elegant as all hell in throughout the 20th century. And yet, the last few years have seen the black suit relegated to the sidelines, a standby called into action only for weddings and funerals. This fall, the haphazard cyclone we call fashion has sputtered the black suit back out at the summit of sophistication. Its clean, minimalist lines and quiet refinement are exercises in irrefutable, incontrovertible and (hopefully, this time) permanent style. This is a classic among classics—give it the respect it deserves. Wool-mohair suit ($2,835) by Louis Vuitton; cotton shirt ($350) by Calvin Klein Collection.
The Right Watch
Yang-Yi Goh, Fashion Editor
Still-Life
On-Model Photography:
Stylist’s Assistants:
Matt Doyle
Marc George & YaYa Lora
Styling:
Grooming:
Christopher Campbell for Atelier Management
Matthew Green & Melanie Harris
Photography:
Liam Mogan Styling:
Serge Kerbel for Plutino Group
Baume & Mercier Clifton $2,900
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Casual Outerwear Trends A Rough Guide BUY
The Bomber
The Perfecto
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Footwear Heavy-Soled Hitters Think of these whole-cut leather beauties as a luxury SUV for your feet: they’ve got the good looks and seductive curves of your favourite dress shoes, crossed with the four-wheel-drive traction and stability of a great pair of boots. This winter, there’ll be no more switching out your footwear at the office or cramming your wingtips into uncomfortable rubber galoshes. Instead, you’ll tie up a single pair of shoes in the morning, and go on to conquer both slushy sidewalks and the boardroom in one fell swoop. Don’t forget to thank us later. Whole-cut leather wingtip shoes ($3,500) by Kiton; wool pants (part of suit, $3,130) by Louis Vuitton; wool-cashmere socks ($35) by Falke.
HOLD
The Varsity Jacket
BOILED TO PERFECTION
SELL The Right Watch
A boiled-wool topcoat is a lot like a veteran detective on a network crime procedural: tough as nails, full of depth and character, handsome, works surprisingly well with others, and seems to just go on forever and never quit. Wool topcoat ($4,545), wool cargo pants ($965) and wool pocket square ($185) by Brunello Cucinelli; wool jumper ($250) by A.P.C.
The Military Jacket
Breitling Chronomat 44 Airborne $8,030
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Four Essential Sweaters to Splurge On
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Accessories
The Shawl Collar Haider Ackermann, $1,110 at Mr. Porter
The Sweatshirt Todd Snyder, $275
The Turtleneck S.N.S. Herning, $225 at End
GROWN MAN FLANNEL Remember back in high school, when you first discovered Pearl Jam and all you wore were plaid flannel shirts? Prepare to feel that way again—only this time, the shirts won’t be from Goodwill, and your hair is likely a great deal shorter. This fall, the sharpest shirts in your arsenal will be cut from the same exceptionally soft tartans you grew up on, except with the added bonus of spread collars, barrel cuffs and a well-tailored fit. Somewhere, Eddie Vedder is feeling mighty proud. Corduroy double-breasted suit ($3,095), cotton flannel shirt ($345) and wool pocket square ($100) by Ermenegildo Zegna; glasses ($135) by Gucci.
The Cardigan
A Pin in the Neck Collar pins are nothing new, of course: dapper gents have been wearing them beneath their neckties to add a dash of flourish for well over a century. But it’s only recently that we’ve discovered just how sharp they can look when worn alone, without the cover of a four-in-hand knot. Dragged out of its supporting role and put into the spotlight, the collar pin suddenly goes from a charming anachronism to something wholly unexpected, fresh and modern. It’s the easiest way to give even the simplest outfits a jolt of punkish danger.
Comme Des Garçons Play, $415 at Nomad Cotton shirt with collar pin ($525) and tie ($230) by Brioni.