T H E
E S S E N T I A L
R E F E R E N C E
The Book for Men
F O R
T H E
M O D E R N
M A N
FALL / WINTER
2015
COMPLETE
FALL / WINTER
Style Manual
INSIDE
Contents
42—47
48—66
67—95
P R E FA C E
CHAPTER 1
CHAPTER 2
Design
Time
Portfolio ..........................................................50
Portfolio ..........................................................68
The history of street style, an award-worthy safari lodge and the future of photography.
Elegant timepieces both out of sight and out-ofthis-world.
Hotel Confidential .........................................54
His Spare Time...............................................70
The man behind Manhattan’s most striking boutique hotels shares his design philosophy.
Mario Grauso, the president of Joe Fresh, displays some of his most prized timepieces.
Master Class...................................................58
House Special ................................................78
Five top architects discuss the structures that inspire them.
A peek inside the most impressive in-house movements made by the top watchmakers.
Letter From the Creative Director...............42 Letter From the Editor-in-Chief...................44 The One ..............................46 A handsome bar cart — fully stocked, naturally — to keep the good times rolling.
Ready for the Big Time..................................88 Muscular watches work, even if you aren’t an Adonis.
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Contents
96—119
120—139
CHAPTER 3
CHAPTER 4
Travel
Transportation
Portfolio....................................................................................98
Portfolio....................................................................................122
Destinations that call to you, from true luxury at the foot of the Rockies to underwater extravagance in the Persian Gulf.
Taking off in a foldable plane and sending off Land Rover’s Defender.
Cold-Blooded Thriller….............................................................124
The Heart of the Arctic….........................................................106
The new Audi R8 is one beauty of a beast.
Encountering the sublime — and trying to make sense of it — on the planet’s final frontier.
Everything Has To Be Glorious….............................................128 A swift dispatch from the Goodwood Festival of Speed, Britain’s most exlusive automotive event.
Distilled Moments....................................................................114 A look at the culture and craftsmanship of Scotland’s most distinguished distillers.
Full Throttle…............................................................................136 The Aventador SV is the most intense Lamborghini yet. And that’s saying something.
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Contents
140—151
152—194
CHAPTER 5
CHAPTER 6
Arts & Life
Style
Portfolio....................................................................................142
Portfolio....................................................................................154
Dream inducing photography and two new restaurants that deserve your attention.
Montblanc and Louis Vuitton offer the perfect bags for the season; Burberry adds a personal touch to your wardrobe.
Captain Adventure..................................................................144
Smell of the Wild….....................................................................156
Scaling the frozen Niagara Falls, paragliding through the Rockies — Will Gadd won’t stop seeking higher heights.
The season’s strong, musky fragrances evoke the very best of the wilderness.
Inside the Vault….....................................................................148
Trouble in Paradise...................................................................164
An exclusive look into TD’s massive art collection.
Suspense, intrigue and impeccable suits for your own high-drama situations.
Soulful Style...............................................................................178 In his short career Marvin Gaye carved out his own sound, and his own style.
On the Shoulders of a Giant ....................................................182 Embrace the wilderness in outerwear and fabrics that are up to the task. Shot on location in Northern Ireland.
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Contents
195—210
211—240
CHAPTER 7
CHAPTER 8
The MANual
The Style Manual
Your guide to doing everything better, from hunting to fighting to storytelling to baking bread. Look 10 years younger, find innerpeace and get hip to what the kids are doing online. It’s about time you did.
This season, it’s all in the details. We highlight the little changes that will make a big difference in your wardrobe. The best in coats, suits and accessories, not to mention the top tips for dressing up for the holidays and beating the cold.
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Because there is perhaps nothing more enticing than a collection of fine scotch
Preface
t
The One
he pull towards collection is personal; a sometimes-surprising itch you didn’t know you had until you bought your first record or Rolex. Still, we suggest that there is one thing every man should collect: fine scotch. And while there’s room in every collection for the prized, as-expensive-as-it-is-rare bottle that won’t ever be opened, scotch is made to be savoured. Especially the good stuff. All the time, craftsmanship, history and potential deserve — nay demand — to be tasted.
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Photo Assistant: Sebastian Pilaprat-Lueth. Prop & Wardrobe Styling by Joanne Jin. Hair and make-up by Nina Farrauto for MAC Cosmetics/ Plutino Group. Casey Oval Bar Cart ($1,535) by ELTE. Top tier (clockwise): Metal spoon ($30), glass ice bucket ($55, part of a set), glass decanter ($130, part of a set) by Highland, cooper scotch sign ($20), at BYOB; leather coaster ($75) by Ralph Lauren, at the Bay; copper tray ($125), at BYOB; the Glenlivet 18 Years Old scotch whisky ($110); the Glenmorangie Original single malt scotch whisky ($70); the Balvenie Caribbean Cask 14 Year Old scotch whisky ($110); cotton cocktail napkin ($20, a set) by Gluckstein Home, at the Bay; crystal scotch glass ($15) by Glencairn, glass decanter ($200, part of a set) by Aspen, at BYOB. Bottom tier: Velvet covered metal ice bucket ($20), at BYOB. On her: Leather trim blazer by Tiger of Sweden; lace bra and lace thong by Calvin Klein, at the Bay; lace garter belt by B. TemptíD by Wacoal, at the Bay; rose gold cuff by Eddie Borgo, at Holt Renfrew.
Photography by Mathew Guido
Sharp: The Book For Men
Sharp: The Book For Men | Fall / Winter 2015
Chapter 01
Design 48
Shanghai Modern A former shipping dock becomes a stunning home for art Shanghai is known as a city where bigger is better and nothing is off limits, at least architecturally speaking. This has allowed a proliferation of striking designs, from office towers to residential projects to many of the country’s best museums. The latest addition to that list is the Long Museum West Bund, the second space dedicated to showcasing the collection of Chinese billionaire Liu Yiqian. Built around a former shipping wharf and underground parking garage, it was the largest private art museum in the country when it opened in 2014. With frequently changing exhibitions, plus an impressive permanent collection, the space is dedicated to displaying historical and contemporary works from around China. Shanghaibased Atelier Deshaus conceived the structure, whose sweeping concrete vaulted ceilings and subtle use of natural light up Shanghai’s architectural ante yet again. THELONGMUSEUM.ORG
Sean MacPherson is the man behind some of Manhattan’s most exciting boutique hotels. Not surprisingly, he has some thoughts on good design.
Story by Peter Saltsman
n Hotel Confidential
ew York City is seemingly made up of hotels — gleaming steel and glass towers that house, for a night or two, some of the city’s tens of millions of out-of-town visitors. And most of these buildings’ interiors look exactly the same. Whether it’s the Plaza or a downtown Holiday Inn, there’s a formula: big bed, generic dresser, someplace to put the TV. But Sean MacPherson sees things differently. The hotelier has been in the business for a couple of decades now, and he’s made a subtle name for himself by opening place after place with distinct personalities — all well-conceived, hyper-curated and generally awe-inspiring. His hotels include the Jane in Chelsea, the Maritime, the Marlton, which opened last year in Greenwich Village, and the Ludlow, which opened just last spring on the Lower East Side. He designs them all. And he’s worth listening to on the subject, because like his hotels, his ideas might surprise you.
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Design
Five top architects expound on the buildings that inspire them
Story by Peter Saltsman
Master Class a
Design
Photo: Getty / Eddie Brady.
rchitecture is literally all around us — you’re probably sitting in a building, one that someone else designed, right now. But how much do we ever think about it? How much consideration — functional, aesthetic, cultural — do we give to the buildings we see and use and interact with every day? And even then, how much do we really read into it? One might appreciate a set of lines or curves, a door handle or a clever piece of furniture — but what do those things represent? And what makes a building truly good? To that end, we spoke with some of our most distinguished architects, and asked them to pick a single building, anywhere in the world, and explain just what makes it so great. What follows are words from some of the top men in their field — and, by extension, a rare window into the architectural landscape of this country.
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Chapter 02
Time
True Patriot Love Breitling introduces the Black Steel Canadian Edition With a Canadian flag on the back, the Breitling Chronomat 44 Black Steel Canadian Edition is more than simple flattery. In fact, a family member of Breitling’s owner recently moved to Canada, and (understandably) fell in love with the country. Thus, the Swiss brand has produced this limited edition version of the popular Chronomat 44, which includes an in-house made chronograph movement, in a black-coated steel case, limited to just 100 pieces and available only in Canada. Subtle patriotism is the best kind.
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Portfolio
How to Become Legendary
Celebrating OMEGA’s travels through history and Space It’s not easy for a timepiece to have an indelible role in something extraordinary. It’s also not easy to bring a crippled capsule back to earth in one piece. Since the first moon landing in 1969, OMEGA watches have been onboard NASA shuttles as the official watch of US astronauts. You might not think, what with all the technical equipment onboard and back at base — the literal rocket science at work — that it would matter if astronauts knew what time it was. But consider Apollo 13. In 1970, Captain James Lovell and his crew went up with plans to land on the moon. A small fire and loss of oxygen meant that the landing was aborted and the men had to find a way to get home safely. (You remember the film, so we don’t need to tell you how that went. Tom Hanks remains unscathed.) “It was necessary to maneuvre without the use of our equipment,” explained Lovell, at an event in Houston celebrating OMEGA’s involvement with the Apollo 13 mission. “We had to burn the engine for 14 seconds in order to course correct. We used the watch to time the burn of the engine and return safely.” To commemorate that unforgettable mission, OMEGA announced the release of the Speedmaster Apollo 13 Silver Snoopy Award watch, an ode to the Silver Snoopy Award that OMEGA was presented with in 1970 in recognition of its contributions to the Apollo program. Snoopy, the beloved dog from the Peanuts cartoon and a NASA mascot, decorates the dial and the case back, while two inscriptions can be found on the front: “What could you do in 14 seconds?” written underneath the dial and “Failure is not an option” at the centre.
Don’t Call it a Watch
An elegant solution for the visually impaired, The Bradley will look good on anyone’s wrist While the The Bradley is designed for the visually impaired, good design is good design. This timepiece, crafted by Eone, a firm fully committed to inclusive design, doesn’t require you to look at it. By touching the two ball bearings — one on the face indicates minutes, and one on the side indicates hours — whether you’re sighted or not, you can discreetly know how late you’re running.
Time
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Mario Grauso, the President of Joe Fresh, has a timely obsession
Story by Matthew Biehl Photography by Josh Fee
His Spare Time Fall / Winter 2015
t
he way Mario Grauso tells it, he wasn’t really given a choice when it comes to collecting watches. A love of timepieces was passed down from his grandfather to his father and then to him (and, it should be noted, his son Harry is already following in their footsteps). It started when he was presented with a selection of his father’s watches. “He started forking them over so I ended up with probably 30 or 40 from him,” he says. And his collection has only grown from there. Grown a lot. Grauso came to Joe Fresh in 2013, hand-picked by Joe Mimran to be Chief Operating Officer and, ultimately, his successor when the founder stepped down in 2015. Now splitting his time between New York and Toronto, Grauso invited us into his Yorkville home to talk about collecting both watches and art — but then again, with timepieces like these, the two are nearly indistinguishable.
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Time
These watches are unapologetic. Don’t shrink. Instead, respect their over-the-top style and functionality
Photography by Kourosh Keshiri
Ready for the Big Time Time
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Hublot Big Bang Unico Bi-Retrograde Chrono The soccer fan will note that the space between 10 and 2 has been given over to counting down each hour, highlighting 45 minutes: the traditional length of play for each half of a footie match. $26,300
Sharp: The Book For Men | Fall / Winter 2015
Chapter 03
Travel 96
Vatnajökull ice caves Iceland The brilliant crystal caves that lie under Iceland’s Vatnajökull glacier — which, at 8,100 square kilometres, is Europe’s largest — would make Superman feel right at home (you may recall his Fortress of Solitude). Formed by streams of frozen meltwater, this kaleidoscopic underworld of suspended waves and fang-like shards can only be explored during the winter, when sub-zero temperatures make the ice strong enough. The infinite, glacial maze boasts shades of luminous blue, white and — when the sun rises or sets — fiery orange. They’re terribly beautiful, but incredibly temporary, thanks to the shifting ice sheet. “New ice caves form every year,” says Helen María Björnsdóttir, whose family business, Local Guide, has led tours of the tunnels for over 20 years. “People see something that will melt and disappear the following summer.” Serenity, like everything else, is fleeting.
In search of adventure on the planet’s last frontier
The Heart of the Arctic
Fall / Winter 2015
Story by Jeremy Freed
Day 1: Ungava Bay, Nunavik, 59°30'N 67°15'W The Inuit hunters make their way across the ice slowly, cautiously, their bodies hunched low to the snow-swept ground. They position themselves behind a drift, rifles steadied, and take careful aim. The crack of their guns sends the caribou into a panic and the herd retreats, but a dozen or more of their number now lie still on the ground, their pelts and the snow beneath them darkening with blood. The hunters gut their quarry swiftly, beheading the caribou and trussing their legs with practiced ease onto the sleds for the journey home. The sky is darkening, weather moving in, and they dare not linger. The program ends shortly after that and I turn off the TV, my gaze shifting out the porthole of my stateroom aboard the Ocean Endeavour. We’re sailing out of Kuujjuaq, at the mouth of Ungava Bay, and the waters of the Hudson Strait stretch on, cobalt and without end, lit by the late-setting sun of the Arctic summer. Dinner was roast beef, asparagus and French onion soup followed by creme brulée and the onboard pianist tinkling away at Thelonious Monk in the Nautilus Lounge. Before bed I’m taking advantage of the 1970s-era NFB documentaries on my inroom entertainment system, trying to come to grips with the place I find myself today. The ship rocks gently side to side and my eyes grow heavy. Somewhere beneath me the engines thrum steadily, lulling me to sleep. I’d been referring to Adventure Canada’s 12-day voyage through the Canadian Arctic to Greenland as an “adventure cruise,” but I’ve quickly realized that I’ll need to find a different descriptor. My shipmates are largely grey-haired and bespectacled, more suited to the comforts of city life than traversing the sea ice by dogsled, but the spirit of our journey remains one of exploration. We are here to meet the people who live in this land and experience their culture, to observe walrus, whales and polar bears through binoculars, and take in the beauty of the Arctic in its
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Travel
Searching for the perfect Moment among the distilleries of Scotland
Distilled Moments Fall / Winter 2015
Story by Greg Hudson
w
hile all travel is built around Moments, Scotland serves them up like a kind-hearted bartender on his last day: big, full and in quick succession. But even in a place as rich as Scotland, you need to be in the right mood to acknowledge, let alone savour, a Moment. See, there’s a difference between a memory and a Moment. Technically speaking, the former isn’t made when we recall an actual event, but when we remember remembering that event. Memory is the groove we create traveling over the same mental ground, again and again. A Moment is what compels us to start that memory-making trek. Moments are flags planted; markers that stand out from time, you know you’ll return to. And, like I say, Scotland is full of them. It’s also full of scotch. It turns out, the two are connected.
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Chapter 04
Transportation 120
Freak in the Sleet The Snowcrawler is a concept ATV that’s worth pining for Blazing the whitest stretches on a snowmobile is good fun, but having your face blasted by sub-zero winds is considerably less enjoyable. The Snowcrawler ATV can resolve this contradiction. The conceptual vehicle by design firm Mindsailors features an aerodynamic cabin— sitting on electric-powered rear treads and front skis—that shields you from the elements. With massive windows and a transparent roof, the frozen plains will hopefully one day be your oyster.
With the new R8, Audi has created a monster
Story by Matt Bubbers
Cold Blooded Thriller Transportation
124
Scared and loving it in Lamborghini’s new flagship, the Aventador SV
Story by Matt Bubbers
Full Throttle Transportation
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Chapter 05
Arts & Life 140
Wheels and Heels by David Drebin © 2015 DAVID DREBIN. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
Climbing the frozen Niagara Falls, paragliding though the Rockies — Will Gadd proves that there are always worlds left to conquer
Story by Alex Nino Gheciu
Captain h Adventure
itting your peak can feel a little melancholic. You’ve climbed the career ladder, gained the respect of your peers, won the lady of your dreams, bought the car you’ve always coveted, fathered a beautiful brood, been there, done that. And now you wonder: where do I go from here? What’s left to do once you’ve summited the mountain of accomplishment, planted your flag and taken the requisite selfie? Find a bigger, scarier mountain. That’s Will Gadd’s advice. Even after winning every major ice climbing title, being dubbed National Geographic’s 2015 Adventurer of the Year and becoming the first man to scale the frozen Niagara Falls, Canada’s daredevil extraordinaire still seeks wilder thrills. At 48, he shows no signs of mellowing out. What’s the good life worth, if its limits aren’t tested, explored? “I always need big challenges coming at me or I become a huge pain in the ass,” he explains. “I’ve got the Labrador gene; I need to chase the tennis ball every day or things fall apart.”
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Arts & Life
An exclusive look into the TD vault, where its impressive corporate art collection is conceived and curated
Story by Peter Saltsman Photography by Josh Fee
Inside the a Vault
rt is an investment. Sure, it’s beautiful, enriching and culturally significant, too. But anyone well enough versed in the art world’s complex markets knows that, above all else, good art is an appreciable asset — or that’s the goal, anyway. That’s largely why many big corporations, from tech startups (remember the Facebook muralist who scored huge after the IPO?) to legacy law firms, curate their own art collections. And so do banks. TD can thank Mies van der Rohe for its collection. When the Bank of Toronto and Dominion Bank merged in 1955, the new venture needed a suitably new and outsized headquarters. In a radical move, the resultant bank commissioned the world-renowned architect to build two black towers in downtown Toronto. Construction started in 1964 and the first tower was finished three years later. TD now had thousands of square feet of brand new, empty offices — and more wall space than it knew what to do with. Van der Rohe’s designs lent themselves to displaying artwork, and the architect suggested the company begin collecting suitably modernist works to complement their new digs: Picasso, Miro, the European masters of the past century. “And so the chairman at the time, Allen Lambert said yes, we will collect,” says senior curator Pamela Meredith, “but it will all be Canadian. That set the course, and we’ve stuck to it since.” Over the past 50 years, TD’s art collection has expanded outside of the Toronto towers to offices across the country and the US. It currently sits at somewhere around 10,000 pieces. Its value is anyone’s guess; they’re currently undergoing an assessment, which will take several months and likely yield a number, but given the volatility of the art market, and the ongoing process of new acquisitions, it’s nearly impossible to say what that number will be — though needless to say, it will be big. Curating art is, by its very nature, an exercise in choosing pieces that will stand the test of time, financially as well as aesthetically. And it’s why TD employs two full-time employees to oversee its ever-expanding collection.
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Arts & Life
Style
Photo: Matt Doyle. Stylist: Christopher Campbell for Atelier Management.
Chapter 06
Sharp: The Book For Men | Fall / Winter 2015
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Blurred Lines Inspired by the Renaissance, Montblanc created their most exciting leather collection yet Dubbed the Meisterstück Sfumato Collection, this product line is named after the sfumato (“evaporate like smoke”) painting technique, originally developed by Leonardo da Vinci and his contemporaries. Especially evident in da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, sfumato gives softness and depth to an image through blending different layers of paint. This translates to blurred edges on each of the items in the collection, including this structured tote. The simplicity of the design masks the complex workmanship of each piece. $2,700, MONTBLANC.COM
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There is a time for understatement, in fragrances as in life. But that time is not now. When the weather gets cooler, opt for a strong, musky scent, one with enough heft to ground you through the winter months
Photography by Liam Mogan
Smell of the Wild Style
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Dolce & Gabbana Intenso As the name suggests, this scent means business. It’s almost all sandalwood and tobacco, with a few watery lavender top notes for good measure. $80
Cotton-viscose dress by Jonathan Simkhai, at Holt Renfrew; viscose choker by The Kooples, at TNT.
Suspense, intrigue and impeccable suits
Trouble in Paradise Photography by David Drebin Styling by Stacy L Troke
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Style
178
The Prince of Motown shows how personality and attention to detail make a world of difference
Soulful Style Fall / Winter 2015
Story by Matthew Biehl
Turned Out 1964 Young, clean cut and impeccably dressed, Gaye may have been at the start of his career, but you can’t tell by looking at him. He could walk off that set and into present day and not be out of place at a black tie event. The jacket is simple with a perfect fit and trim on the shawl collar and breast pocket. All the details are on point: bow tie, pocket square, cufflinks and polished-to-ahigh-shine shoes.
m
arvin Gaye spent his career constantly pushing forward, unafraid to abandon what he knew would work to explore new sounds and ideas. Most importantly for our purposes here, his style changed in tandem with his sonic evolution. Over the years he moved from classic suiting to clothing with more colour and personality as his music morphed from the Motown hits that launched his career to the surprising funk-infused soul that made him a legend. The singer’s life was tragically cut short in 1984, but just as his music continues to influence others (sometimes a little too much, right Robin Thicke?), so does his sense of style.
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Style
Deck yourself in big overcoats, technical fabrics and heavy knits that are warm and rugged enough to explore the Giant’s Causeway and Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge in Northern Ireland. But outerwear like this will be perfect for any adventure
Photography by Peter Ash Lee Styling by Luke Langsdale
On the Shoulders of a Giant Style
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Wool coat ($1,395) by Calvin Klein Collection; wool turtleneck sweater ($340) by North Sea Clothing; polyester-wool blend pants ($70) by H&M; leather boots ($435) by BOSS.
How to Look (and Feel) 10 Years Younger
It’s easy enough to buy a badass car to make yourself feel younger, but actually looking younger takes a little more effort. Ten years younger? That’s a commitment from head to toe. We asked a few experts for tips on how to make each part of your body look a decade younger. (Note: we’re assuming you’re not in your 20s. No man should want to look 17 again.)
A word about
HORMONES:
Stress manifests as a hormone called cortisol. In a nutshell, excessive cortisol breaks down muscle tissue, increases body fat and negatively impacts things like blood sugar regulation, cardiovascular health and immune function, all of which can make you look and feel older. Elevated cortisol also causes a decrease in testosterone levels. The key to minimizing stress is finding an outlet that works for you. Maybe try mindfulness (pg. 197 ).
Hair
"Men of a certain age looking to reduce their age should stay away from the side part or combing their hair straight back. Instead, opt for no part, use a shorter clipper on the sides instead of scissors all over, and use product when styling to maximize texture. Just as hairstyles for older men make a younger man appear older, so it works in reverse.” – Kelly Lovelock, Club Director, John Allan's Salon Learn from: Clooney, George; Grant, Hugh; Slattery, John
Clothes:
“The biggest thing these days would be jacket length. A more fitted, shorter jacket length gives a more youthful, modern appearance to a man. As a whole, a slimmer suit with the right silhouette helps out, too. It should be no more than an inch above the seat line. Anything higher than that will look like the wearer is trying to fit in with a much younger crowd. Just an inch is enough to look only slightly younger.” – Jeff Podgurny, General Manager, Garrison Bespoke. Learn from: Brosnan, Pierce; Firth, Colin; Ford, Tom
Fitness A word about
TELOMERES:
Telomeres, found at the end of each strand of DNA, and protect our chromosomes. These things shorten as you get older and affect everything from your weakening immune system to cancer risks. By taking in extra nutrients, you can elongate the lives of telomeres and, eventually, yourself. Recommended nutrients include vitamin D (sun), omega-3 (fish oils), vitamin B12 (meat), magnesium (dark leafy greens) and probiotics (fermented veggies).
Manual
“Weight train to increase lean muscle mass and decrease fat mass. In addition to boosting testosterone, weight training also naturally increases growth hormone production (which is also known as the fountain of youth). Another benefit of weight training is the positive impact it has on posture, and an improvement in posture alone makes a man look younger and stronger.” – Gabriel Lee,
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physiotherapist, personal trainer & cofounder of ManTraining Fitness. Try these: Squats, leg presses, lat pull-downs and bench presses. Start with light weights doing 15-20 reps and eventually move to increased weights doing 12-15 reps.
Skincare
“When men hit the age of 40 their oil production drastically drops which almost overnight shows their lifestyle on the face. A proper cleanser that will restore balance to their skin will hugely change their appearance. Alternatively, a quick peel, ear wax, nose wax and eyebrow clean-up makes a huge difference. It's amazing how much a face will change without crazy hairs sticking out.” – Daniel Francoeur, Bode Studio for Men Learn from: Rudd, Paul; Lowe, Rob; Reynolds, Ryan
Gut:
“Everything that happens in the body begins with our digestive system. To regain a healthy gastrointestinal tract, take a potent daily probiotic supplement. Try to consume things like kombucha tea, kimchee, sauerkraut, and other fermented foods daily, which will promote a healthier system. Having a balanced digestive tract, will not only build your immunity and improve your health, but it will also transform your skin, making you look years younger than your true age.” – Jay Bradley, health & wellness expert. Do it yourself: Pick up an airlocked fermenting jar (from CulturesforHealth. com) to prepare your own vegetables, fruits and condiments.
Sharp: The Book For Men
How to Achieve Mindfulness
Just when you thought the health-kick lexicon couldn’t grow anymore (remember juicing and yogalates), it seems you can’t go anywhere without hearing about "mindfulness." A form of meditation, the practice aims to get you to a calmer sense of being in your everyday life, as well as becoming less reactive to things that affect you negatively. Studies — actual ones, that involve science — show that mindfulness can in some cases help mental health as much as prescription meds, as well as increasing energy and focus. Recently, Johns Hopkins University published a study in the JAMA Internal Medicine journal that suggested mindfulness as a way to help relieve anxiety, depression and physical pain. To understand the full scope of mindfulness, yoga instructor and meditation teacher Jude Star walks us through the practice.
How To Work It Into Your Day According to Star, there are two kinds of mindfulness: formal and informal. Neither will take more than a few minutes, and both are easy to inject into your day.
Formal:
Before your first coffee of the day, set yourself up in a comfortable spot and quietly take note of how you’re feeling, where you’re feeling it and why. Think of it as a quick sweep of self. You’re not doing this to think of ways to change what you don’t like, or come up with a To-Do list for the day. In fact, it’s the opposite: note your feelings, and then peacefully put them out of your mind.
Informal:
If you can’t spare the coffee-less minutes in the morning, informal mindfulness should come while you go about your day. If you start to feel angry or anxious, don’t disconnect from it. Be continually aware of the feelings and sensations until they die down. Employ whatever strategies you think might calm you down: take a few deep breaths, take a walk, whatever you like. But just make sure you’re not just taking your mind off whatever is bothering you.
STEPS TO PROPER MEDITATION
There are three things to keep in mind while you’re being mindful. Concentration
Keep your attention and energy on what you deem is relevant at the moment. It can be one thing or many things but just keep control over what has your full attention.
Clarity
Notice what you’re feeling. Is it anger? Frustration? Anxiety? Pick each sensation apart, recognize what is causing them and see them for what they are.
Asking exactly what mindfulness is isn’t a straightforward question (things like this rarely are). Star provides a helpful general explanation: a moment-to-moment, non-judgmental awareness, wherein you take a minute to step back and take a third-person view of your experience.
This is the nonjudgmental acceptance. Embrace every sensation that arises, be equally open to each one and realize that whatever happens is okay, and that you’re equipped to handle it.
Meditations Vs. Yoga Vs. Punching a Wall MEDITATE
WHAT IS IT?
Equanimity
DO YOGA
PUNCH A WALL
Feeling Frustrated A Strained Muscle A Bad Day Feelings of Inadequacy
WHAT YOU NEED
You know what you don’t need? Candles, incense, music and overstuffed pillows to meditate. However you’re most comfortable, (sitting, lying down or walking) is how it should be done. Your main objective is to maintain a straight spine.
Fall/Winter 2015
Old Injury Flare-Up A Daughter dating a professional Uber driver/DJ
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Page 1 - Opener (chunky turtleneck with shearling collar coat)
F/W 2 015
Style
Editor’s Letter
212 Outerwear 216 Layering 220 Sweaters 221 Bags
Detail Oriented
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ON-MODEL Photography by: Matt Doyle Styling by: Christopher Campbell for Atelier Management Grooming by: Liz Olivier Stylist Assistant: Marc Anthony George ————— STILL LIFE Photography by: Mike Fraser Styling by: Joanne Jin
ometimes, new collections are all about big changes to old standbys. Radical change is, after all, the easiest way to make a mark and define a trend. But this year, some of our favourite designers are making small, carefully calculated moves. And because that attention to detail speaks to an inherent appreciation of strong design and craftsmanship, it leads to large-scale payoff. What are the little things you should be looking for? Silhouettes have been tweaked slightly — pant hems moved up, shoulder seams moved down — and there’s a welcome focus on functionality, especially in military-inspired outerwear. Prints have shrunken down so that they don’t overwhelm; even something as ubiquitous as camouflage has been reinterpreted in different materials and colours to make it exciting again. And sometimes it’s the things you can’t see that make all the difference: minimalist hardware on accessories, the lack of stitching on a pair of whole-cut shoes and even the unmistakable feel of quality fabrics that don’t reveal themselves until you try them on. Let the Style Manual help you meet the devil in the details of your own wardrobe, to pinpoint where you want to refocus and make changes so you can dress your best every day.
————— Watches by Ariel Adams and Joanne Jin —————
Matthew Biehl FASHION EDITOR
222 Trousers 224 Patterned Suits 226 Whole Cut Shoes 227 Colours 230 Hiking Boots 231 Winter Wear 232 Military 233 Camo 234 Eyewear 235 Dress Down 236 Dress Up
ON THE COVER Wool coat with shearling collar ($1,240) and cashmere-wool blend turtleneck ($360) by Ami.
237 Accessories 238 Timepieces
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ome men are still resisting the full return of the turtleneck. They are wrong. These days, you have two flavours of the classic sweater to choose from: a chunky knit feels more appropriate for the cold, while thinner-knit options are the perfect base layer for crewneck sweaters. Sweaters on sweaters — it’s a magical time. But if you want a more traditional option, shawl collar sweaters are always safe in the best way possible. And it’s not like you can’t have some fun with surprising buttons or clasp closures at the collar. See, magical! —————
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: Wool shawl collar sweater (price upon request) by Boglioli; cotton-wool blend shirt ($900) by Dsquared2. Cotton turtleneck sweater ($425) by BOSS. Wool sweater ($850) by Belstaff; wool turtleneck ($390) by Pal Zileri. Cotton sweater ($355) by Tomorrowland, at WANT Apothecary Montreal.
Seasonal
Hands Free Page 11 - Hands Free Bags (off-figure)
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n the war over what will carry your reading material, the backpack is still gaining ground. But that’s not to say messenger bags have given up. The details, or lackthereof, are what’s keeping us interested in this match-up. Minimal hardware, supple materials like leather and suede and a choice of geometric patterns — or no pattern at all — make for standout accessories that leave your hands free during your morning commute. —————
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: Suede messenger bag ($4,325) by Gucci; leather backpack ($3,995) by Valentino; leather messenger bag ($325) by Diesel, at Hudson’s Bay; leather backpack ($3,900) by Dior Homme.
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The Book for Men FA L L / W I N TE R 2 0 1 5
Adventure Will Gadd believes man should torch the tent-poles of his own limitations. It’s what motivates him to do things previously thought impossible, like paragliding a harrowing 800 kilometres down the spine of the Canadian Rockies all the way to the US border. — Captain Adventure Style Sometimes it’s the things you can’t see that make all of the difference: minimalist hardware on accessories, the lack of stitching in a pair of whole cut shoes and even the unmistakable feel of quality fabrics that don’t reveal themselves until you try them on. — The Style Manual Autos The trajectories of the brown bird and red car intersected at windshield height. It was no contest. Nature lost to the machine. The car feels nothing. Only now it seems to have a taste for blood. Audi has created a monster with this all-new R8. — Cold Blooded Thriller Travel A host leads us down a dark stairwell that opens into a glittering, neon-lit dining room dominated by a semicircle of enormous windows that reveal the ocean life beyond. When I first heard we’d be eating underwater, it sounded gimmicky at best. But by the time our appetizers arrive—an exquisite medley of crab, couscous and pomelo—all the cynicism has washed away. — Before it Disappears $16.95 • Display until April 15th 2016