Memphis - February 2023

David Yurman

Mednikow Diamonds

Mikimoto

John Hardy

Gurhan

Elizabeth Locke

Monica Rich Kosann

Charles Krypell

Roberto Coin

Michael Bondanza

MY LAGOS MY WAY

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Spread love, not germs by having your rugs disinfected.

Here at Taghavi’s, we would like to do our part to help stop the spread of the novel COVID-19 virus. Recent studies have shown that the virus can be brought into your home, by your shoes and can live on surfaces like your rugs and floors anywhere from two to nine days. In order to help curb the spread, we at Taghavi’s, recommend that you stop wearing your outdoor shoes into your homes and to have your rugs cleaned and disinfected. Quality rug cleaning can only be accomplished by in-store professional rug cleaners. Call us for disinfecting and cleaning of your rugs.

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february 2023

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Master Weaver Ali Taghavi restoring an antique Persian Farahan rug.

Memphis

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BY ANNA TRAVERSE FOGLE

Memories Don’t Pay the Rent

Not long ago, I parked in front of a local restaurant a little before noon for a business lunch. An associate had arrived first and informed me that the spot we had chosen was closed. No one was inside, and the door she had tried was locked. We began to leave for a different eatery in the neighborhood when a colleague of mine called my cell to say that he was already inside the apparently closed restaurant and that they were open and happy to seat us, which they proceeded to do.

Our group spent close to two hours in the dining room on a Wednesday at lunchtime; during those two hours, precisely zero other customers walked through the single open door. The service was, as you would imagine, attentive. We had no competition. We had our choice of tables — no dark corners near the restrooms for us! We never worried about curtailing our conversation to allow the staff to turn our table, and we never strained to hear each other over the din of others’ chatter — because other than the man who seated us and waited on us (and, we wondered, maybe cooked our meals, too?), there were no other living beings to be found. I found the experience unsettling, eerie — like we were munching on salads after the apocalypse. But it was also distressing, more practically, to ponder the fate of this beloved restaurant. Theoretically beloved, at least.

Each February, we at Memphis magazine publish our dining issue, featuring the results of the annual readers’ restaurant poll as well as our staff’s food musings. Based on the number of people who vote each year in the restaurant poll, we know that our community members hold strong feelings about local dining. But are we doing our part, as members of a community, to ensure that we’re backing up our strong feelings with our dollars?

My guess is that we have all been part of a conversation that goes like this:

“Oh no! [Insert restaurant name here] closed!”

“Aww, really? But I loved that place! I used to go there all the time.”

“Me too. So many good memories. What a bummer.”

Here’s the thing, though. Our collective happy memories won’t pay the rent. It’s easy to feel disappointed when a business doesn’t make it. It’s more uncomfortable to feel … responsible. But when it comes to profitand-loss spreadsheets, there’s no column for

whether a business is theoretically beloved.

I’m far from perfect; I nurture fond memories of plenty of businesses that I haven’t patronized in ages. Most of us lack the cash and the time to support as many places as we might wish. But I could probably be a little more intentional in my decisions. By the time you’re reading this, it’s February, and a bit late for resolution-making — but I don’t do New Year’s resolutions, and it’s never too late to try just a bit harder to support the places I want to stick around. Maybe that simply looks like choosing the neighborhood taco shop or coffeehouse instead of the national chain, or picking up sushi from a favorite local spot rather than the grocery store’s sushi counter.

The same goes for other small local businesses, of course. Speaking as someone who runs one, we wouldn’t still be here if not for you. And we won’t be here in the future without you. It’s because of your fellow readers and especially your fellow subscribers that we’re able to sell ads, and to remain affordable and accessible, and most of all to preserve the stories and art of this moment in Memphis history. Whether or not you sign up for a subscription, or renew yours when it expires — these may seem like minor decisions, but to us, they’re anything but.

Most of all, what I want to say is that you matter, and your choices matter. It can be easy to think that a business will always be there, waiting for us to darken its door again, because after all it always has been there, as far back as anyone can remember. Which doesn’t mean it will still be there tomorrow.

So tonight, I hope you’ll take a seat at a local restaurant — we’ve got lots of suggestions in the pages that follow. Not because it’s a holiday, or a birthday, or a designated date night. Just because you want that restaurant to be waiting for you, next time.

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India Palace

Authentic Northern Indian food is served in a relaxing atmosphere.

BY MICHAEL DONAHUE

ing an approaching tiger. Rows of booths line the windows and a back wall, with the buffet table set up in a corner. ey don’t have a bar, but customers can order beer, including Indian beer.

India Palace survived the pandemic thanks to its customers. “It was a tough time,” says the owner, “but we got a lot of takeout orders.” Residents of the surrounding neighborhoods, including the Evergreen Historic District and Central Gardens, “support us a lot. We are very thankful for our neighborhoods.”

Butter Chicken is Balvinder Kumar’s go-to dish at India Palace.  e boneless tandoori chicken, cooked in butter and gravy, is one of about 50 items on the restaurant’s menu.

“It’s a very good menu,” says Balvinder, 54, who — along with his brother, Jatinder Sharma, and their business partner, Himmat Singh — owns the restaurant.

Kumar, originally from Punjab, India, got into the restaurant business when he worked at an Indian restaurant in Phoenix, Arizona, after he moved there in 1990. In 1993, he moved to Memphis, where he opened India Palace in 1996. “ ere was more potential in the Midtown area,” he says. “I tried to give the best food in town. e best service.”

e restaurant was a hit from the beginning. “From the very first, it was packed,” he says, “and a big line outside.” And, he adds, “it’s still doing very good.”

e menu then is “pretty much the menu we have now. We didn’t change too much.”

e food at India Palace is prepared in the style of Northern India. Balvinder explains

that “it’s different from the South. Different spices.” Among the most popular items is the Chicken Tikka Masala, which is “mesquite broiled” and served in a tomato-butter gravy with bell pepper and onions.

e restaurant offers a lunch buffet, which includes desserts, like Kheer, a basmati rice pudding; Gulab Jamun, which, the menu says, are “juicy balls made from cream of milk in light syrup;” and Mango Kulfi, an “Indian-style ice cream with fresh mangoes.”

e light-filled establishment, with picture windows that look out onto the intersection of Poplar and Evergreen, features large hand-painted murals, including one showing a herd of elephants and another depict-

On a recent Wednesday, Hickman Ewing and Steven Yeo stopped at India Palace for the lunch buffet. Ewing, a retired attorney, is a big fan of the food.

“I’ve been to India Palace 15 times in the last 15 years,” he says, “and theirs is very authentic.”

Ewing especially loves the lamb meatballs. “Most people don’t eat much lamb,” he says, “and, if they do, it’s not in a meatball.” e meat here is “ground up. And it’s in a very good sauce.”

It was Yeo’s first visit to India Palace. “Hickman was the one who introduced me to Indian food,” says Yeo, direc-

left: Owners Himmat Singh, Balvinder Kumar, and Jatinder Sharma. inset: Mr. Donahue, always hard at work. below: The tiger mural.

tor of outreach and Memphis ministries at First Evangelical Church. “What I do appreciate about Indian food — and I did experience at India Palace as well — is the taste, which feels very homey to me. e cream and the butter, maybe, is what makes it happen.”

He especially enjoyed the Palak Paneer: fresh spinach cooked down in an aromatic curry, and mixed with cubes of paneer, a homemade cheese. “I definitely enjoyed it with the naan [Indian flatbread cooked in a clay oven],” Yeo says.

e India Palace experience, he says, “was like going on an adventure. It was really nice that the staff is from North India. So, how they greeted you and treated you, the interior design of the place, and how everything smelled and tasted, made it feel like a complete Indian experience.”

India Palace is located at 1720 Poplar Avenue.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL DONAHUE; AUTHOR PHOTOGRAPH BY HIMMAT SINGH

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With a Twist

BY ABIGAIL MORICI

Wielding a tiny hand-held torch, Patrick Gilbert toasts a sliver of an orange rind before dropping it in the drink he has titled a “Cairo Cosmo.” It’s a fitting moniker from a fine-dining restaurant with a nod to Memphis’ Egyptian namesake.

Taking its name from the sacred bird of the ancient Egyptians, IBIS opened on December 22, 2022, in the former Pontotoc Lounge space on South Main, which has since been re-outfitted with an eclectic vibe, mixing the modern with the antique. Gilbert, for his part, works as the general manager and created the drink menu.

“I wanted the bar to be uniquely different from what Memphis bars are,” says Gilbert, who has worked in the restaurant industry here for 20 years or so. “I feel like some of the people’s mixed drinks are always so sweet. It’s like you can’t get away from the barbecue sauce and all the sugar. So I wanted some things that were a little bit more balanced — some plays on classic cocktails.”

e “Cairo Cosmo” is the first drink Gilbert serves me after mixing Old Dominick’s Honeybell Citrus Vodka, cranberry juice, lime juice, a bit of vanilla, and orange cognac. And, of course, there’s the orange rind, for which he whips out the torch. Never have I been treated to such showmanship, as a tiny flame sparks up against the rind. “It actually opens up all the citrus notes from the rind to give it a little bit more of a tartness,”

Gilbert floats a dash of pinot noir on top of the whiskey, lemon juice, and honey concoction, and tendrils of garnet slowly disperse into the yellow drink before me. A layer of foam rises to the surface, adding an unusual yet pleasant texture to the beverage. e foam is made of chickpea juice, Gilbert says, instead of the egg whites that are typically used in New York sours. I’ve never had a New York sour, but I pay no mind to the egg-white replacement and I don’t think it’s a matter of not knowing any better.

“I’m not reinventing the wheel,” Gilbert adds. “You’re doing different things. You’re adding an ingredient here or there, but you don’t want to overly complicate a drink.” Instead, he works to find ways to elevate classic drinks, bringing out stronger flavor profiles and improving the mixology process.

For the last drink I taste — the “Smokin’ Gin and Phonics” — Gilbert begins by smoking the ice. If I thought the torch earlier was a spectacle, I was missing the mark. Smoke shrugs off the glass like fog.

“I found smoking the ice in the glass is actually better than just smoking the glass itself,” he says, “because the smoke attracts the ice and sticks to the ice, so by the time I get down to the bottom of it, even the last sip, all the flavors are still there.”

he explains, and the citrus notes are indeed opened in this drink as far as I can tell, as I find the drink more refreshing with each sip.

“ e Cosmo is probably the most complex drink we have,” Gilbert says. “It’s got the most ingredients in it. ere’s a lot going on, but if you can balance it out just right, it’s great. You don’t want to have too much going on.”

Up next is the “Sour Tower,” a simple twist on a New York sour.

e subtle smoky flavor wowed me throughout my sipping endeavors, even as someone who doesn’t particularly love the taste of smoke. It’s an unusual drink, for sure, but enjoyable nonetheless, and in a category of its own on the menu. But then again, each of the drinks has been carefully curated to appeal to a range of tastes — from something sweeter like the Cairo Cosmo or a bit more on the sour side like the Sour Tower.

“You’re trying to give someone an experience for them to remember, a little bit of elegance and fun,” Gilbert says. “ e bartender or the server has to understand what the guest is looking for, what they like and everything else. … If I can make everyone happy, I want to aim for it. It’s all about that human interaction, that enjoyment of what the simple things in life are really all about.”

IBIS is at 314 South Main St.

IBIS adds a bit of flair to classic cocktails.

Patrick Gilbert serves up a “Smokin’ Gin and Phonics” (left); “Cairo Cosmo” (above); and a “Sour Tower” (above right).

Reddish Egret by Mark Watts | Pelican Point - Alabama Coastal Birding Trail

NIN

BY SAMUEL X. CICCI AND MICHAEL DONAHUE

We don’t know about you, but we think about food all the time: What we’re going to eat for breakfast, where we’d like to spend our lunch break, whether we’re going to cook something at home or claim a seat at a restaurant. With dining establishments back to business as usual (whatever that means), owners and chefs have embraced a newfound zest for their craft, trying fresh ideas, doubling down on old favorites, and keeping their pantries stocked and bottles full for Memphians looking to enjoy a meal out.

Memphis is blessed with brilliant new restaurants from inventive culinary minds, but we like to kick back and enjoy some of our old favorites too. e last couple of years, our Memphis magazine dining contributors have used this section to highlight some of the best dishes and restaurants around, whether that was through the traditional Top 10 New Restaurants list, or a quirkier idea like 2021’s “Memphis Eats A-Z” feature.

is year, we’re focusing on some of our favorite meals (and a dessert) that we ate over the course of 2022. Plenty of new establishments wowed us with their ideas. Fancy’s Fish House served us a pirate’s bounty worth of delectable seafood. A completely transformed and relocated Restaurant Iris, now in Laurelwood, combined some of Kelly English’s best ideas with those of current chef Russell Casey. And the new Ciao Bella hit the ground running with its exceptional chicken marsala.

But old favorites mixed it up, too. Tops Bar-B-Q debuted some new ideas for the first time in a long time with its fire-braised chicken sandwich, while Michael Donahue just can’t stop talking about the sticky Italian chocolate pudding at Andrew Michael. What follow are these two writers’ TOP 9 DISHES OF 2022 . To see what bites reign supreme among our readers, be sure to check out the winners of our annual READERS’ RESTAURANT POLL on page 26. And refer to our CITY DINING LISTINGS on page 72 for all the restaurant details you need to plan your next evening out. – Samuel X. Cicci

Arturo Leighton and Sarah Cai at Good Fortune Co. have been pouring every ounce of their passion for handmade noodles and dumplings into their dishes since opening the restaurant in 2021. The co-owners have made their Main Street digs a hotspot for Downtown’s hip dining crowd, with a slew of social media posts reveling in their delicious food and chic interior.

The GFC Wings have been a sleeper hit that quickly entered the “best wings” conversation. But my go-to order is the “coco curry” noodles, a spicy dish based around coconut broth and fried tofu. That’s been one of the restaurant’s main-

COCO CURRY RAMEN GOOD FORTUNE CO.

stays since it opened, and is consistently one of the top sellers.

“Here in the States, most people don’t make their curry from scratch; they might start with a paste and go from there,” says Leighton. But he and Cai decided that if they were to serve a curry, “We wanted to stick to our ethos of making everything from scratch. We’re able to get most of our spices at Viet Hoa Market [on Cleveland], and the rest we have to source from elsewhere, so it’s certainly a labor of love. We’ve got things like galangal, ginger, lime, plenty of things like that to give it a unique, southeast Asian

flavor profile.”

Leighton says more than 20 ingredients go into the coco curry. As for the tofu, Leighton says he and Cai love challenging themselves to make some of their dishes vegan, and adding tofu was an easy choice when putting the finishing touches on their curry. “We’d completed our recipe, and all the ingredients we used were vegan, no pork fats, no animal fats,” he says. “So we thought, let’s just keep it fully vegan. It has tons of coconut and amazing aromatics, and we thought adding meat would distract from the recipe we spent so long building.” — SXC

SEAFOOD TOWER

FANCY’S FISH HOUSE

Quality beats quantity, sure. But sometimes you just want to order the very biggest thing on the menu and have at it. And it turns out, seafood fans don’t have to choose between size and substance at Fancy’s Fish House. Carlisle Restaurant Group’s latest venture at One Beale recently revamped its menu, adding an eye-catching aquatic behemoth to its selection.

Fancy’s Seafood Tower comes in

three different sizes, each packed to the gills with all of the finest fish from the restaurant’s raw bar.

At the largest level, the tower is built of poached jumbo shrimp, marinated blue crab claws, East and West Coast oysters, and a bowl of ahi tuna tartare. It’s all delicious, but the tuna stands out, delicious little smooth and buttery cuts that are marinated in chef Nate Henssler’s spicy mix. “We dice the

tuna half an inch,” says Henssler, “and then pack in the flavors of habanero, toasted almonds, diced pear, shaved mint, and some ancho chile.”

“We really view it as a party piece, or something to celebrate around,” adds Chase Carlisle of the restaurant group bearing his surname. “Come on out for a birthday, a promotion, an anniversary, pop a bottle of Champagne, and order one of the seafood towers.” — SXC

FIRE-BRAISED CHICKEN SANDWICH

TOPS BAR-B-Q

The fire-braised chicken sandwich at Tops Bar-B-Q is so good, I’ve eaten about a dozen since Tops introduced the dish just a few months ago.

My habit began with a single small sandwich. Now I order two of the large ones. I love them. Chicken, seared over a fire (as you might guess from the name), is topped with a Memphis white sauce, which was based on Alabama white sauce. But Tops created its version in-house and added its own twist.

Tops CEO Randy Hough told me,

DONAHUE

“This sauce is very similar in terms of remaining really creamy and tangy. I don’t want to call it ‘hot’ or ‘heat,’ but there’s something a little different, a little snappy to it on the back end.”

I love that sauce. But I also cheat and ask for the red Tops barbecue sauce when I order the chicken sandwich. I dip a piece of the sandwich with the white sauce into the red sauce. It’s a tasty variation.

The chicken on the sandwich is pulled — like Tops’ barbecue — so it has the same basic consistency as the

barbecue. If you want a change from eating barbecue, but you still want the feeling, try this sandwich.

Sometimes, I’ll pair the fire-braised chicken sandwich with Tops’ turkey burger, which they introduced about 10 years ago — which was the most recent time an item had been added, until the fire-braised chicken entered the scene. I ask them to dress it just like their famously delicious hamburger — with cheese, ketchup, mustard, mayonnaise, lettuce, and onion.

— Michael Donahue

KONA STRAWBERRY ROLL

DŌ SUSHI POP-UP AT BAR DKDC

Iarrived in Memphis in 2011 as a young, naive college student. In hindsight, I regret that my off-campus excursions didn’t include a trip to Karren Carrier’s Dō Sushi on Cooper. That restaurant closed in 2012, and Carrier’s Bar DKDC, operating in the same space, became a home for enthusiasts of local music and those looking for a nice cocktail.

But for several magical nights in 2022, Carrier placed DKDC into a time machine and turned back the clock a decade, getting most of the sushi team back together and dishing out all the rolls of old. I saw a couple of posts on social

media leading up to the first pop-up, and figured I’d wander in.

As far as I could tell, everyone else in Memphis had the same idea. DKDC was packed wall-to-wall, with more customers waiting outside and filling the Beauty Shop next-door to grab a drink while they waited. These were rolls in demand, and it was easy to see why when I sampled the kona strawberry roll, a blend of flavors infused with a mild natural sweetness that I didn’t realize could be achieved with sushi. Crab and seared walu (escolar, sometimes called “white tuna”) melded with masago (a fish roe), sweet soy reduction, and some

fresh strawberry slices that brought both sweetness and a hint of acidity.

Beyond the kona strawberry roll, the menu also included other assorted rolls, sashimi plates, and noodle dishes. The temaki made a big impression, an alternate take on sushi with the ingredients packed into a cone of seaweed. I give a shout-out to the spicy tuna temaki (a hand roll), which blew me away with its spice and still managed to retain the buttery and creamy tuna taste. I’m not aware of current plans for another Dō Sushi pop-up, but I know Memphians would come out again in droves. — SXC

PAN-SEARED FLOUNDER RESTAURANT IRIS

Chef Kelly English made a gamble when he decided to move Restaurant Iris into a much bigger location in East Memphis. But the restaurateur unveiled a magnificent new space in Laurelwood, with crescent-shaped booths, murals, colorful ambient lighting, Alice in Wonderland-esque private dining rooms, a cruvinet (a type of wine-dispensing station), and plenty of the old Restaurant Iris favorites.

As part of the move, longtime Memphis chef Russell Casey took over Iris’ kitchen, and he put his own spin on the menu. Iris offers plenty of enticing

options, but one of Casey’s favorite dishes is on the simpler side: the panseared flounder. “We’ve got a lot of cool things on the menu that are a synthesis of my and Kelly’s ideas, but I think we did a really good job with the flounder,” he says. “We use a classic béarnaise sauce on top and pair it with a really good lima bean succotash.”

The flounder was a big hit when Memphis first covered the new Iris, and it remains so. It’s an approachable seafood dish: warm, light, and flaky, with a crispy exterior. A little dash of vinegar mixed in with the thick blanket of béarnaise cuts

any excessive fishiness, and the succotash provides a firmer accompaniment with its mix of sweet vegetables.

“The fish has to be perfect,” says Casey, “so we’ve got to layer it, build it step-by-step as we go through. We start by making our fish stock. Then we season the flounder perfectly with a little salt and white pepper, use the béarnaise, with flavors of vinegar, tarragon, lots of butter, and hot sauce. Then the succotash adds fresh lima beans, basil, tomatoes, corn. And then when all of those finally come together, it’s a kind of synergy. It’s really good.” We agree. — SXC

CHOCOLATE STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING

ANDREW MICHAEL ITALIAN KITCHEN

Iflipped the first time I tried the Chocolate Sticky Toffee Pudding with brown-butter-pecan powder and salted caramel gelato at Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen.

That was years ago, and it’s still on the menu. I would be willing to bet others have flipped, too.

The base is a date cake, topped with

chocolate, butterscotch sauce, salted caramel gelato, and brown-butter-pecan powder. The powder ties together the gelato and the cake, and it’s far more than meets the eye. The magical substance is made by boiling candied pecans in simple syrup before tossing them in powdered sugar and frying until crisp. Next, a puree consisting of candied pecans and

brown butter mixed with maltodextrin, a tapioca-based starch.

I usually refer to the powder as “dust” because I can’t remember to call it “powder.” But it’s the most delicious dust you’ll ever eat. It’s still my favorite restaurant dessert in town. You’re really getting three desserts in one: the gelato, the date cake, and the dust. — MD

CHICKEN MARSALA

CIAO BELLA ITALIAN GRILL

Ihad never ordered chicken marsala at a restaurant before I ordered it a few months ago at Ciao Bella Italian Grill. I ordered it because my sister did, and we both loved it.

I’m biased; I love dishes cooked with wine. So I was delighted I found this flavor in a dish that I could eat whenever I wanted.

I tried the chicken marsala again recently when I visited the elegant new location of Ciao Bella Italian Grill on

Sanderlin Avenue, and it’s still a favorite.

Ciao Bella executive chef Branon Mason told me about the dish. “Chicken marsala is simple,” he says. “And it’s about the right ingredients. We try to get the best available ingredients to make that dish happen. Instead of using a traditional beef stock, we use a veal demi-glace reduction.”

And, he says, “We use a really good Marsala wine. Not just your standard cooking wine — it’s an actual Marsala.”

As for the chicken, Mason says the key is “getting it butterflied and pounded to achieve the right thinness in order for it to be fork-tender.”

The “cutability” of the scallopini, or slices of chicken, is important. “You’re not supposed to need a knife when you’re eating a Ciao Bella chicken marsala.” The chicken is accompanied by button mushrooms, sautéed spinach, and linguine with garlic, olive oil, and a touch of parmesan. — MD

TURKEY AND DRESSING THE FOUR WAY

Aheaping plate of turkey and dressing with side items at The Four Way is, well, heaven on Earth.

Owner Patrice Bates Thompson told me turkey and dressing is the restaurant’s most popular item. The most popular sides vary between greens and yams. But the macaroni and cheese is also a hit.

You can celebrate Thanksgiving every visit to The Four Way by ordering the turkey and dressing. Whenever I eat this

plate of food, it’s like I’m at a feast. Thompson’s personal favorites, though, are the fried fish and chicken wings. Her favorite food combination is macaroni and cheese with yams. And a little cornbread.

When you go, I recommend completing the meal with the restaurant’s bestselling desserts: Order the peach cobbler or strawberry cake (or both). Thompson once told me why she thinks The Four Way is so celebrated.

“We cook with passion and love,” she said. “And we take pride in what we do. I’m sure we’re not only going to give you a good product, but good service.”

That M.O. has been serving The Four Way well for many years. Thompson is part of the Bates family that has owned the place since 2002, when her parents, the late Willie Earl Bates and the late Jo Ellen Bates, bought the business that Clint and Irene Cleaves originally opened at Mississippi and Walker in 1946. — MD

VEGETABLE PAELLA TONICA

Sabine Bachmann has long since proven her chops as a purveyor of fine European cuisine in Memphis, drawing in customers over the years to the Italian-inspired Ecco, along with Libro at Laurelwood. But her talents took on a new, more Iberian shape in 2022 when she opened the doors to Tonica in Midtown.

The Spanish-style restaurant serves a variety of tapas with authentic Spanish roots and some Memphis flourishes. Plus plenty of wine. “I like the idea of small plates,” says Bachmann. “That’s how I like to eat. I like to go to restaurants and just have a bunch of appetizers

rather than a big, full entree. And then with every appetizer I have a different glass of wine.”

Most of the tapas could earn a spot on our Top 9. The chicken wings (aliutas de pollo) have a delicious sweet-spicy sauce made from Calabrian peppers, while it’s easy to snack on the grilled pimiento peppers garnished with flaky sea salt. But choosing just one small plate defeats the communal experience of Tonica, so for the purposes of this list, I’m sticking with one of their larger entrees: a big, steaming bowl of paella.

“We use bomba rice as the base,” says Bachmann. “We mix it with

herbs, spices, some vegetables, and any one of the meats that we offer.” I usually order the vegetarian option, which is a velvety mix of soft rice and Spanish vegetables, perfect for taking quick bites while chatting with your companions, the gentle scent of the herbs and spices transporting you to a picturesque Spanish setting. Oh, and it’s shareable, too.

“The paella is authentically Spanish, which is what we’re focusing on,” says Bachmann. “But there are plenty of things to enjoy; we also have a few surprises that may not be as traditionally Spanish.” — SXC

Presenting the winners of the 2023 READERS’ RESTAURANT POLL

BEST RESTAURANT

Folk’s Folly Coastal Fish Company

Erling Jensen the Restaurant Flight Restaurant & Wine Bar

BEST NEW RESTAURANT

Restaurant Iris

New Wing Order

Tuyen’s Asian Bistro

Editor's Note: Restaurant Iris' reinvention qualified it for our "Best New Restaurant" category.

BEST CHEF

Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman, Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen / Hog & Hominy / Catherine & Mary’s / Gray Canary / Bishop

Erling Jensen, Erling Jensen the Restaurant Tamra Patterson, Chef Tam’s Underground Cafe

BEST RESTAURATEUR

Kelly English, Restaurant Iris/The Second Line/ Pantà/Fino’s

Our readers certainly know a thing or two about restaurants. For more than 35 years now, we’ve been asking them to participate in our annual Readers’ Restaurant Poll, selecting their favorite haunts around town and seeing where they like to stop for steak, ribs, or date night. e result is a handy list that tracks the pulse of Memphis’ dining scene, highlighting plenty of popular and under-the-radar restaurants that locals frequent. If there’s a beloved diner, dive, bakery, or bar, expect it to be on this list.

Many of the restaurants here have been working for years to keep diners full and happy. Chefs continue to pour all their creativity into each dish, and restaurateurs continue to push boundaries as they open new enterprises. It’s all in the service of keeping us fed, so the least we can do is order a few meals, and leave a generous tip for our servers.

e following list — which is completely separate from our “Top 9 Dishes of 2022” feature — details the best places to dine, as chosen by you, our readers. To ensure the poll results were accurate, we installed online safeguards to ensure only one ballot per person, making this the defi nitive resource for Memphis restaurant-goers.

We’ve named the top three restaurants in most categories, with the first-place winner in bold type. Ties are indicated when they occurred. A special designation ( ) — we’re calling them “Super Stars” — indicates first-place winners who received more than a third of the total votes cast in that category.

Whether you’re new in town or a longtime resident, our 50+ categories offer up fantastic restaurants worthy of any palate. We also cover the best places to grab a drink, where you can relax and partake in some people-watching, which out-of-town spots are worth the drive, and even include a remembrance of some old favorites that are no longer around.

Unsure where to grab dinner next? Let your fellow readers help with the winners of our Readers’ Restaurant Poll. — Samuel Xavier Cicci

Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman, Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen/Hog & Hominy/ Catherine & Mary’s/Gray Canary/Bishop

Tom Powers, Flight Wine Bar/Southern Social/Porch and Parlor/Coastal Fish Company

Judd and David Tashie, Bryant’s Breakfast/Ciao Bella/Pete & Sam’s/La Baguette

Karen Carrier, The Beauty Shop/Bar DKDC/Another Roadside Attraction

BEST AMBIENCE

Coastal Fish Company

Catherine & Mary’s

Charles Vergos Rendezvous

The Majestic Grille

Acre RestaurantRunner-up

BEST ASIAN FUSION

Red Koi

A-Tan

Mulan

BEST BAR

Memphis Whistle

The Cove

Alchemy Bardog Tavern

BEST BARBECUE RIBS

Charles Vergos’ Rendezvous

Central BBQ

Corky’s

We asked, and you did not let us down. Here are our readers' top restaurant picks for this year.

BEST BARBECUE SANDWICH

Central BBQ

Germantown Commissary

One & Only BBQ

The Bar-B-Q Shop

Payne’s Bar-B-Que

BEST BARTENDER

Rosha Lewis (Drinks on Duty)

David Parks (McEwen’s)

Jeff Hicks (Memphis Whistle)

BEST BEER SELECTION

Flying Saucer

Lucchesi’s Beer Garden

Young Avenue Deli

Boscos Squared

Celtic Crossing

BEST BREAKFAST

Brother Juniper’s Bryant’s Breakfast

Sunrise Memphis

BEST BRUNCH

Owen Brennan’s Brother Juniper's

The Beauty Shop

BEST BURGER

Huey’s Top’s Bar-B-Q

Belmont Grill

BEST CAJUN/CREOLE

Owen Brennan’s

The Second Line

Bayou Bar & Grill

BEST CHAIN RESTAURANT

Houston’s

Texas de Brazil

Torchy’s Tacos

Seasons 52

BEST CHINESE

Mulan

Wang’s Mandarin House

Formosa Chinese Restaurant

BEST COFFEEHOUSE (NON-CHAIN)

Cafe Eclectic

Otherlands Coffee Bar City & State

BEST CRAFT COCKTAILS

Peabody Lobby Bar

Memphis Whistle

Alchemy

BEST DATE NIGHT

Flight Restaurant & Wine Bar

Coastal Fish Company

Erling Jensen the Restaurant

Southern Social

Ecco on Overton Park

BEST DELI

Elwood’s Shack

Bogie’s Delicatessen

Young Avenue Deli

BEST DESSERT SHOP

Muddy’s Bake Shop

Frost Bake Shop

La Baguette

BEST DIVE BAR

Alex’s Tavern

The Cove

Earnestine & Hazel’s

BEST FOOD TRUCK

New Wing Order

TACOnganas

Yippie Trippie & The Porkstars

BEST FRIED CHICKEN

Gus’s Fried Chicken

Superlo Foods

Jack Pirtle’s

BEST FROZEN TREAT

Jerry’s Sno Cones

Mempops

La Michoacana

BEST HAPPY HOUR

Alchemy

Huey’s Brookhaven Pub

Flying Saucer

BEST INDIAN

India Palace

Bombay House

Golden India

BEST ITALIAN

Pete & Sam’s

Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen

Amerigo Italian Restaurant

Ciao Bella Italian Grill

BEST JAPANESE

Sekisui

Red Koi

Osaka

Sekisui Pacific Rim

BEST KID FRIENDLY

Huey’s Railgarten Diner

Belly Acres

BEST LOCAL BREWERY

Wiseacre Brewing Company

Ghost River Brewery & Tap Room

Memphis Made Brewing Co.

BEST MEDITERRANEAN

Casablanca Restaurant

Taziki Mediterranean Cafe

Petra Cafe

BEST MEXICAN

Las Delicias

Las Tortugas Deli Mexicana

Molly’s La Casita

BEST OUTDOOR DINING

Coastal Fish Company

Loflin Yard

Railgarten Diner

BEST PEOPLE-WATCHING

Peabody Lobby Bar

Flying Saucer

Lafayette’s Music Room

BEST PIZZA

Memphis Pizza Cafe

Aldo’s Pizza Pies

Little Italy

BEST PLACE TO IMPRESS OUT-OFTOWNERS

Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous

Itta Bena

Folk’s Folly

BEST PLACE TO WATCH THE GAME

Brookhaven Pub

Huey’s

Celtic Crossing

Young Avenue Deli

BEST PLATE LUNCH

Soul Fish

Cupboard Restaurant

Patrick’s

BEST SEAFOOD (NON-FAST-FOOD)

Coastal Fish Company

Soul Fish Cafe

The Half Shell

BEST SERVER

Dean Reese, Rendezvous

Amanda Hicks, Memphis Whistle

Calvin Bell, Rendezvous

First-place winners who received at least a third of the total votes in their category.

BEST SHARED PLATES

Babalu Tapas & Tacos

McEwen’s

Alchemy

BEST STEAK

Folk’s Folly

Side Porch Steak House

Porch and Parlor

BEST TACO

Maciel’s Taco Shop

Las Tortugas Deli Mexicana

Elwood’s Shack

BEST TAKEOUT

Huey’s

Panda Garden

Mulan Asian Bistro

New Wing Order

BEST THAI

Bangkok Alley

Emerald Thai Restaurant

Pho Binh

BEST VEGETARIAN/VEGAN

City Silo Table + Pantry

RP Tracks

Global Cafe

Raw Girls

BEST VIETNAMESE

Pho Saigon

Pho 64

Pho Binh

BEST WINE LIST

Flight Restaurant & Wine Bar

Folk’s Folly

Knifebird

BEST WINGS

Central BBQ

New Wing Order

The Wing Guru

BEST CATEGORY WE LEFT OUT

Best Doughnuts

Best French Fries

RESTAURANT WE MISS THE MOST

Justine’s

Pancho’s

Rizzo’s

Anderton’s

Bhan Thai

WORTH THE DRIVE

Como Steakhouse (Como, MS)

City Grocery (Oxford, MS)

Bozo’s Hot Pit Bar-B-Q (Mason, TN)

Broadway Pizza

2581

Old-fashioned pizza house with a lovely comfortable atmosphere where the staff has you feeling like you are in their pizza home. Delicious hot pizzas overflowing with toppings of your choice. Appetizers, salads, spaghetti, catfish, cheeseburgers, Philly cheese steaks, Broadway whole wings, daily plate lunch specials, and more. Located in Memphis’ Broad St. Arts District and look out, Memphis ... NOW a second location at 629 South Mendenhall at Poplar. Legendary Pizza since 1977. Call-in orders are welcomed!

Huey’s

hueyburger.com

Huey’s has been serving up “Blues, Brews, & Burgers” in the Bluff City since 1970. More than 50 years later, this family-owned business has since expanded to 10 locations across the greater Memphis area and northwest Mississippi. Proudly recognized as having the Best Burger in Memphis for more than 35 years, Huey’s features 13 distinct burger choices, a variety of delicious sandwiches, and more. Check out the full menu, locations, hours, merchandise, and more at hueyburger.com.

Ignite Steakhouse at Southland Casino Hotel

1550 Ingram Blvd. • 800.467.6182 • southlandcasino.com

At Ignite Steakhouse, you’ll be treated to premium cuts of charcoal grilled steak, paired with your favorite wines and handcrafted cocktails. This farm-to-table experience has been handcrafted by executive chef Josh Marling, whose creativity and emphasis on local ingredients have brought something completely unique to the Memphis culinary scene. Visit opentable.com for reservations.

The Kitchens at Southland Casino Hotel

1550 Ingram Blvd. • 800.467.6182 • southlandcasino.com

Get ready for a truly unique buffet experience at The Kitchens. With seven open kitchens serving over a hundred delicious dishes Friday through Sunday, you’re guaranteed to find something you love. Enjoy a complimentary cocktail, beer, or glass of wine with your meal! Discounts are available for Lucky North® Club members.

Rendezvous

52 South Second Street • 901.523.2746 • 888.HOGSFLY • hogsfly.com

The Vergos family has been cooking up food in a downtown Memphis alley since 1948. The pork ribs are legendary, as are the waiters and the vintage Memphis décor. Winner of numerous awards in Southern Living and other publications, the menu offers barbecued ribs, pork shoulder, beef brisket, cheese plates, barbecue nachos, Greek salads, local beers and wine. We ship our ribs overnight, too! Call about private parties for lunch and dinner. Check out our new catering menu online today!

Memphis Pizza Cafe

Memphis Pizza Cafe

memphispizzacafe.com

memphispizzacafe.com

Our crust is prepared one way — thin and crisp. Choose one of our specialty pizzas or create your own from our extensive ingredients list, and see why we’ve been voted “Best Pizza” 20 years in a row. Best pizza. Coolest workers. Five locations: Overton Square at 2087 Madison - 901.726.5343, East Memphis at 5061 Park Ave. - 901.684.1306, Germantown at 7604 W. Farmington - 901.753.2218, Southaven at 5627 Getwell - 662.536.1364, and Collierville at 797 W. Poplar - 901.861.7800

Our crust is prepared one way — thin and crisp. Choose one of our specialty pizzas or create your own from our extensive ingredients list, and see why we’ve been voted “Best Pizza” 28 years in a row. Best pizza. Coolest workers. Four locations: Overton Square at 2087 Madison — 901.726.5343, East Memphis at 5061 Park Ave. — 901.684.1306, Germantown at 7604 W. Farmington — 901.753.2218, and Collierville at 797 W. Poplar — 901.861.7800.

Seasons Café at Southland Casino Hotel

1550 Ingram Blvd. • 800.467.6182 • southlandcasino.com

Food has a way of bringing people together. That’s certainly true in the South, as Seasons Café proves. With an innovative menu in a comfortable setting, it’s the perfect place to gather before, during, or after a day of thrills. Pull up a chair and enjoy classic fare made with the freshest ingredients — seven days a week, in all seasons. Welcome to fun and casual dining done right.

Taking the Pulse of Cardio Care

New technology and research are paving the way for healthier hearts.

BY JON W. SPARKS

The history of cardiology research has seen procedures become more precise and powerful as well as accessible. And what’s on the horizon is nothing less than revolutionary, according to Dr. Frank McGrew, the director of clinical research at Stern Cardiovascular. McGrew been at the forefront of finding ways to treat heart conditions. In a recent interview, he spoke of several areas where significant strides are being made.

“About 25 percent of people with bad heart failure will have an electrical condition within their heart where the impulse is slow getting from one side to the other,” he says. “We can help them by putting in a three-lead pacemaker to artificially get the signal to the left side of the heart, and we don’t have to depend on the heart’s nerve to do it.”

Current Pacemaker leads

R L

4 chambers

In heart

2 on right side

2onleftside

Saturday, February 18

7:30pm at Cannon Center

Sunday, February 19

2:30pm at Scheidt Center

Location of the new FOURTHLEAD

Inside left heart chamber

Studies have shown success when using a small pacemaker without a battery that instead uses energy from a source embedded under the skin. An ultrasound energy wave is transmitted to the pacemaker that does not require a wire, making placement much more flexible.

McGrew says that about 75 percent of the time, that is significantly effective to make the heart pump better. But the other 25 percent of the time, he and his colleagues require a different approach. A recent research study aimed to address that issue by putting in a fourth pacemaker lead. “ is lead can be put anywhere we want in the left side of the heart, which gives us the ability to pick and choose areas that will provide us the best electrical flow to make the heart muscle pump better.”

e study, detailed in a recent issue of the journal Heart Rhythm, shows that the added flexibility of lead placement works with the pacemaker.

these people will have scar tissue that will impede the ability of an extra wire to work.”

McGrew points out that the study was not so much about showing that the technique worked, which doctors already knew, but that surgeons who were new to the procedure could achieve a good degree of success. “Newcomers, having never used the technique, can pick it up quickly and make it work,” he says. And that suggests the possibility of more widespread use of the procedure.

“This particular pacemaker is so small and does not have a wire attached to it, so we do not need to give an additional blood thinner to these patients.”

“ e pacemaker itself is small, like a grain of rice,” McGrew says. “It doesn’t have a battery. It gets its energy from a source outside the chest wall that’s embedded under the skin, which sends an ultrasound energy wave to that pacemaker. So, the pacemaker itself travels without baggage; it doesn’t need a wire on it. And because of that, we can put it pretty much where we want within the heart, which is important because a lot of

— Dr. Frank McGrew STERN CARDIOVASCULAR.

He mentioned yet another benefit. “Normally when you put something into the left side of the heart — because blood from there goes to the brain directly — in general any object there is a source of clots that could cause strokes, whether it’s a heart valve or a stitch or a pacemaker wire,” he says. “People get pacemaker wires in the left side, but you have to give the patient a very strong blood thinner. But this particular pacemaker is so small and does not have a wire attached to it, so we do not need to give an additional blood thinner to these patients.”

Robert Moody, conductor

CREATING FAMILIES TOGETHER

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It’s an example of refining existing technology to achieve other material benefits. But sometimes new and rapidly developing technology provides almost futuristic advantages. Artificial intelligence (AI) is much in the news lately, and much of that coverage deals with some of the alarming possibilities of how the technology might take over humanity. But McGrew notes that there are uses of AI being refined now that may save lives.

AI, he says, can go through medical records to find patients with certain conditions that may predict future cardio problems. “There’s a disease called amyloidosis, where proteins are deposited in the heart muscle and make the heart muscle weak and less effective. It was felt that this disease may account for 4 percent or 5 percent of all patients with heart failure. However, it’s now thought that it probably could be much, much greater. And

“Pretty soon we’ll have AI that can evaluate your EKG when you’re in good health and predict your need for a pacemaker within the next two to three years. Alternatively, if you come into the emergency room with chest pain and your EKG is normal — which it often is — we’ll be able to determine if that chest pain was for an impending heart attack or your gall bladder.”

— Dr. Frank McGrew STERN CARDIOVASCULAR.

by using this computerized artificial intelligence program, we’ll be able to go through thousands of patients’ records and identify those that have a higher probability of this disease. Now, for the first time, we have a specific targeted treatment for this disease.”

This is a whole new wave of innovation, McGrew says. “There are programs available, which we hope to have soon at our hospital, that can look at the electrocardiogram of a patient when they’re in normal rhythm and predict that they could develop, or have developed, an abnormal rhythm in the past or future. That will tremendously enhance our ability to prevent strokes and heart attacks and other problems that dramatically impair survival or quality of life.”

You taught us humility. You taught us transparency. You taught us not to be afraid to cry in front of like a hundred effing people on a Zoom call.

Congrats, Russ, on your 2023 CEO of the Year honor.

With love, from your Archer Malmo Family.

When an Athlete Falls Research continues to find new ways of dealing with heart issues.

On January 2nd of this year, during an NFL game between the Buffalo Bills and the Cincinnati Bengals, Bills safety Damar Hamlin collapsed. He had tackled an opponent, stood up, and then fell to the ground right away, suffering from cardiac arrest.

Hamlin was hospitalized and has since been released and is recovering. The incident put the spotlight on the issue of cardiology in rough sports, and Dr. Frank McGrew, director of clinical research at Stern Cardiology, has done research in the area.

“In the broader picture of sudden death in athletes, we made a major step about 20 years ago by screening athletes with echocardiograms and stress tests,” he says. “And by doing that, when they begin an athletic pursuit, that alone will probably remove two-thirds of players who would be destined to have trouble. I was fortunate to be a member of the team that did those tests on the football team at Ole Miss and it was one of the very few schools in the country doing that type of evaluation.” Eventually, it was widely adopted and doing that allows the identification of athletes that have certain abnormal problems.

McGrew says that a thickened heart muscle — hypertrophic cardiomyopathy — accounts for the majority of sudden death in athletes. “But the echocardiogram almost always identifies that and helps us screen those players out.” There are, he says, some patients who either die or almost die as a result of trauma of their athletic pursuit. “When you have a force hitting the chest, it actually creates an electrical current within the heart — very minimal. And if that current happens to fall at a precise time in the heart cycle, it can trigger a life-threatening irregular rhythm that, without a defibrillator present, can be fatal. That’s called commotio cordis, and that’s been well recognized for decades, but almost always occurs with a forceful blow of a small object like a baseball or a lacrosse ball.”

McGrew says the night before the game, his grandson was showing him a new lacrosse outfit that had a foam triangle in the middle of the chest. As it happened, it was there to prevent commotio cordis. “It’s common to have that, with baseball catchers, lacrosse players, and hockey goalies, because they’re the ones that bear the brunt of fast localized heart injuries. Like all the commentators said, it’s very rare to occur from a football helmet because the force is dissipated over a much larger area.”

He says other possibilities could be considered in a case like Hamlin’s: a genetic defect in the electrical system of the heart, a cerebral hemorrhage due to a ruptured aneurysm, or a heart attack where there is cholesterol in the heart arteries. The latter has happened to marathon runners who often run but experience no symptoms.

“It’s useful to screen adults who do strenuous activities like that with a stress test periodically,” McGrew says. “It’s important to remember that a third of the time, the first manifestation of artery blockage is either sudden death or a bad heart attack. They have cholesterol deposits in the arteries that become unstable and plaques rupture. Not everybody who has a heart attack has recognized predictive signs like high cholesterol, high blood pressure, diabetes, or a sedentary lifestyle.”

And there is another test that McGrew says is important. “The calcium score is a CAT scan of the chest. It’s very simply done and not reimbursed by insurance, but almost always costs under a hundred dollars. That picks up calcium in the wall of the heart arteries years before it causes blockage and years before it shows up on any other tests. For many people, the calcium score is an important part of their risk stratification.”

Promising research is being done in cholesterol. “There’s one component called lipoprotein (a) and if you have that in an elevated form, it predicts increased risk of heart disease, like heart attack and death,” says McGrew. “It doesn’t say you’ll always get it, it just increases a statistical risk. Now for the first time we think we have a medicine that can lower that protein. We’re doing two clinical trials in patients that are at risk from that protein to see if we can prevent their heart or vascular disease.”

In Europe, adults have a series of tests, including periodic cholesterol checks and the lipoprotein (a) check that help interpret other numbers in the cholesterol profile. It’s also useful in evaluating if a patient’s children are at risk.

Current research, McGrew says, is showing promise. “We have five or six medicines that make a major impact on heart muscle performance,” he says. “And we have different types of devices to do that. For example, we’re doing research now on a device that’s like a pacemaker and has an electrode in the heart, but unlike a pacemaker, it doesn’t cause the heart to beat faster. It delivers electrical current to get more calcium in the heart cell to make it beat stronger. And there’s a device that stimulates the nerve in the neck, which sends impulses to the brain, which sends them back to the heart to make the heartbeat stronger and more efficient.”

The National Civil Rights Museum congratulates Museum President, Dr. Russell T. Wigginton, on being selected a Memphis Magazine 2023 CEO of the Year Winner.

civilrightsmuseum.org

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Furthermore, AI can add significant information to routine procedures in other areas. “Pretty soon we’ll have AI that can evaluate your EKG when you’re in good health and feeling good and predict your need for a pacemaker within the next two to three years,” McGrew says. “Or alternatively, and more immediately, if you come into the emergency room with chest pain and your EKG is normal — which it frequently is — we’ll be able to determine if that chest pain was for an impending heart attack or from your gallbladder.”

McGrew, a careful scientist with a long track record of research, is not given to overstatement. So it is worth paying attention when he says, “Imagine how that’s going to change efficiency, and how lives will be saved, and how medical care will be cheaper and more available to everyone. It’s going to be a revolution.”

NewGROWTHcurrentModulesAddedWeekly

And that’s not all to look forward to. One area is high cholesterol treatment, which has grown enormously over the decades. “We’ve evolved through different types of drugs like the statins, which are truly miracle drugs,” McGrew says. “We now have drugs that act on the liver to enable it to remove cholesterol from the blood and dramatically reduce the risk of heart disease. And we’re not too far away from gene editing techniques where we can actually go in and remove a gene out of a chromosome and cure a patient’s disease.”

Clinical trials have been able to put new enzymes in the heart that enhance the right kind of chemical reaction to make the heart pump stronger. “That works because certain patients have a defective gene in their chromosome,” he says. “We take a virus particle, a first cousin to the virus that causes a common cold. We go inside of it and remove the virus’s own DNA, and we put in the human piece of DNA that contains the gene that we want to put into the patient.”

When these special viruses are injected, “they latch onto heart blood vessel cells and stimulate them to make more of the right kind of protein to make the heart better.”

A few years ago, McGrew was quoted in The Commercial Appeal as saying cardio research had provided “a pretty effective therapy for keeping people alive, but not making them well.”

But now, it seems a revolution is underway.

siivve e

o think it all started with tamales. Not even real tamales — just the thought of them, piled on a plate, Mississippi Delta-style, was enough to set Justin Fox Burks and me on the road.

Burks is a respected co-author of four vegetarian cookbooks with his wife, Amy Lawrence. Their recipes are known for taking the best of Southern and other traditions and adapting them seamlessly to plant-based alternatives. His curiosity about the time-honored tradition of Delta tamales runs deep. On Burks’ and Lawrence’s Chubby Vegetarian website, they write of “delicious, inspired dishes that just happen to be vegetarian.” Burks had a hunch we would find plenty that was both delicious and inspiring. Luckily for him (and me), I was tagging along as the meathead, ready to sample more carnivorous delights while Burks pursued his other vocation: photography.

CLARKSDALE

Confronted with a tamale craving, we reached out to local author Robert Gordon, who replied decisively, “I’m a big fan of Delta tamales, and the best are at Hicks’ in Clarksdale.” With that, we were off, and, as luck would have it, Eugene Hicks Jr. was just arriving as we pulled up to Hicks’ World Famous Tamales; just behind him was his father, Eugene Hicks Sr.

opposite page: Searching for the perfect tamale leads us deep into the Mississippi Delta.

1st row (l to r): Hicks’ sign speaks truth; Eugene Hicks Sr. passes the tamale torch to Junior; the Clarksdale Crossroads sign.

2nd row (l to r): The road less traveled; Pat Davis Jr. of Abe’s BBQ; shadows at Doe’s Eat Place in Greenville.

3rd row (l to r): Doe’s tamales; chef Taylor Bowen-Ricketts of Fan and Johnny’s; Larry Kelly of Larry’s Fish House.

4th row (l to r): Betty Campbell beams; Fan and Johnny’s crawfish pasta salad; Alan Johnson at the venerable Giardina’s.

Of course, we should have guessed that our quest for tamales would only lure us deeper into the cuisine of the Delta — and, it turned out, into Burks’ own childhood.But more about that later.

Their stock was nearly depleted, as the elder Hicks explained. “When the holidays are over, people are going back home. They’ve got to take three dozen to Jack; Sue, she wants two dozen; Margaret, she wants seven and a half dozen — can I get eight?”

But we were in luck, as they served up a plate of corn husk-wrapped beauties. Burks examined them closely. “They’re so neatly wrapped. I can see the care that y’all put into them.” And I could taste the care, too. Finely seasoned corn meal, still marked by the husks, surrounded a zesty pocket of beef in the center. Exquisite, and rather different from the more cumin-heavy tamales I’ve sampled in Central America.

As I marveled at the flavor, the elder Hicks noted the importance of using real corn husks, not the wax paper favored by many establishments now. “I call them white gold. I’ve got some wax paper wraps back there, but as long as we can get the husks, we’re not even thinking about the wax paper.”

As Hicks Jr. explained, using husks is labor-intensive, but worth it. “You have to trim the husks, cut them down to size. And we boil ours, to get the shuck tea out. That tea would add a flavor to the tamale that we don’t want. Boiling sterilizes them and gets rid of the shuck tea.”

“And the tea is good for you,” added the father, before explaining

top: The author succumbs to carnivorous temptation from Abe’s at the Crossroads. above: Corn husk-wrapped tamales at Hicks’. right: Abe’s barbecue pork sandwich.

that he will soon retire. “I’ll be 79 years old on Super Bowl Sunday!” e shop’s celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, though the elder Hicks was selling tamales long before he had a brick-and-mortar location. Now, he’s turning the whole operation over to his son, who’s committed to keeping the same recipe his father developed, even as he streamlines production. “It’s a labor of love, I tell you,” said Eugene Hicks Jr. “I was born into it. People say, ‘You’re the Hot Tamale Man!’ I see ’em in my sleep now.”

We bade the Hicks farewell and resolved to determine if their tamales could be topped. Greenville has named itself “Hot Tamale Capital of the World,” and hosts the Delta Hot Tamale Festival; to get there, we would have to go to the Crossroads, the fabled intersection of Highways 61 and 49, now celebrated with signage and a mural of bluesman Robert Johnson selling his soul to the devil. As he famously sang,

Hot tamales and they’re red hot, yes she got ‘em for sale

You know grandma loves them and grandpa too Well I wonder what in the world we children gonna do now Hot tamales and they’re red hot, yes she got’em for sale

Before heading south, though, I slammed on the brakes. “Abe’s Bar-B-Q, serving you since 1924!” I announced, in my capacity as resident carnivore. Inside, another family legacy was at work, as Pat Davis Jr., grandson of founder Abe Davis, served up a pit-cooked pork sandwich, with slaw and a sauce tinged with vinegar, that (yes) rivaled any in Memphis.

“I’m the grandson,” Davis told me. “My son said, ‘How do you do that, Dad?’ I said, ‘I guess old Lebanese don’t give up too easy.’ He says, ‘Well, I’m going to school.’ I said, ‘ at’s exactly what I want you to do.’” While one hopes the family keeps their legacy alive indefinitely, Davis is spry enough not to worry about that yet.

GREENVILLE

Pit barbecue pit stop complete, we were off to Greenville, in the southwest corner of the Mississippi Delta, where the celebrated Doe’s Eat Place has sold tamales since 1941. While not many lunch customers were there, that meant I could get a fresh-cooked plate in no time, and they offered beer to boot. Nevertheless, the fare at Doe’s did not overtake Hicks’ in our view. “ ese are very different from the others,”

noted Burks with some melancholy. “ ey’re in the wax paper.” But the cornmeal-heavy tamales at Doe’s, with considerably less meat fi lling, did seem to fi re my pal’s vegetarian imagination. Perhaps we’ll see a corn huskwrapped meatless hybrid, inspired by both establishments, in a Burks/Lawrence-penned cookbook soon.

INDIANOLA

Having awarded Hicks’ the unofficial Delta hot tamale crown, we resolved to keep eating. Several locals recommended e Crown restaurant and gift shop in Indianola, but the dining area closed before we were able to enjoy our third lunch. While we hated to miss their most popular dish, “the poached catfish with the Allison butter,” as Jennifer at the counter explained, their gift shop was loaded with ready-made mixes, jams, and jellies, all bearing their own Taste of Gourmet brand.

Burks enthused about the highly alliterative peach pecan pepper preserves. “Sweet and sour, savory from the pecans, and spicy. It’s all the things!” But I was already tugging at his sleeve. I’d heard about another eatery with ties to Indianola’s hometown hero, B.B. King. And with that, we were off to Betty’s Place.

Don’t let the restaurant’s location in a converted garage deceive you: Betty’s soul food cuisine meets the highest standards, and the proof’s in the high-profi le customers she’s served over the years, many of whom have scrawled their names on the walls. And it all started with a King. Proprietor and chef Betty Campbell explains, “I cooked for B.B. King for about 20 years. I used to have a grocery store-slash-restaurant on the south side of town. It started out when a group from London were performing at the club, and B.B. wanted fish, but he didn’t want it fried. So, I created a dish with broccoli, bell peppers, onions, and lemon juice, and put it over rice. From there, it took off.”

We settled for the honey-bun cake, a variation on Betty’s “sock it to me” cake. “You can put it in a Bundt pan and put drizzles on it,” she explained, for a cross between coffee cake and a honey bun. She used to add pecans, she said, but customer allergies prompted her to omit that ingredient. Just hearing her say it, though,

Weekdays 4 AM - 9 AM

jogged our memory: Indianola is celebrated for its pecans. We had to get some.

Next stop: the Indianola Pecan House. Bags upon bags of the nuts were stacked everywhere, surrounded by all manner of pecan-themed treats under the house brand. I settled on the praline-and-cream pecans and a pecan-graced truffle, and dreamed of those flavors blended with Betty’s sock-it-to-me cake.

GREENWOOD

Or perhaps that dream was merely the onset of a food coma. But never mind that, we had more eating to do! With each stop in the Delta, we’d learn of more dining experiences that cried out for sampling. e siren songs ultimately steered us towards the eastern horizon, to the region’s undisputed capital of fi ne cuisine, Greenwood. As the home of the Viking Range Corporation, the town is a beacon for chefs of all stripes, especially since 2003, when Viking opened e Alluvian Hotel in the city’s historic downtown. Now, with the Alluvian Spa, Viking Cooking School, and Giardina’s Restaurant included in the Viking Hospitality Group, it’s a chef’s paradise.

Yet our first stop was the independent gem known as Fan and Johnny’s, a cozy, artfully decorated space owned and operated by James Beard Award-nominated chef Taylor Bowen-Ricketts. Even when putting her own spin on local soul food, she adds a bit of Continental flair, as with her deep-fried frog legs with lemon pepper vinaigrette, which redefine “tender” and “succulent.” For his part, Burks finally found a vegetarian safe space, relishing the buttered, broiled beets with sour cream, the charred broccoli with herb vinaigrette, and some classic asparagus on the side. Meanwhile, I tucked into the crawfish penne pasta salad, also served with asparagus, not to mention remoulade, romaine lettuce, onion, tomato, and feta — a finely balanced flavor celebration.

e most charmed moment of the journey was yet to come. Having checked in to our luxurious rooms at e Alluvian, which blend the character of the old Hotel Irving, built in 1917,

The sign says it all at Fan and Johnny’s, where chef Taylor Bowen-Ricketts puts her own spin on local favorites.

with the chic art, decor, and amenities of its renovated new identity, we made our way downstairs to Giardina’s. We walked through the bar, with its dark wood and tile, and entered the dining area, where the seating consists of 14 private booths, each complete with high walls and curtains. Part of the original, pre-renovation Giardina’s, the booths make for an especially intimate evening, with just a hint of Bonnie and Clyde-style luxury.

The food was stellar. Our vegetarian was happy, even noting, “This is the best eggplant parmesan I’ve ever had. Eggplant can pick up a lot of cooking oil. But this is light and delicious, such a nice little sealed packet there with the breading. The oil doesn’t get through, so you don’t feel like you’re drinking olive oil.” And just then, as if stepping through a portal, one of Burks’ childhood friends appeared.

It should be noted that Greenwood was Burks’ childhood home for only a year, before his family returned to Memphis. But, as fate would have it, the Burks’ closest friends in Greenwood, the Johnsons, also followed suit, and young Justin forged a friendship with his agemate Chris Johnson that carries on to this day. How serendipitous, then, as we relished the fine cuisine, to see Chris’ younger brother, Alan, appear in our booth, pulling up a chair and a beer to chat with us.

Though he still lives part-time in Memphis, Chef Alan Johnson revels in crafting the cuisine of Giardina’s so much that he commutes to Greenwood every week. “We have a hunting camp outside of Greenwood, and it’s actually where I grew up. So I drive up here and stay five nights.” Still, Chef Johnson loves Memphis, and brings our city’s array of flavors to all his work. “I love Wiseacre,” he added. “Wiseacre’s not just my favorite Memphis brewery, it’s my favorite brewery in the country. So good!”

Marveling at their unplanned meeting, Burks and Johnson reminisced about their families’ ties to Greenwood. “You basically live in two of the smallest towns in the world,” quipped Burks.

“Yes, Memphis and Greenwood!” answered Chef Johnson. And Johnson loves them both. Indeed, Giardina’s has close ties to his kin, bringing the Johnson family legacy full circle. “My Uncle Henry’s duck gumbo is on the menu here. Duck hunting was always a big thing. But there’s no steel shot in ours!”

The next morning, we visited the fine teaching facility and store of the Viking Cooking School. Manager Kimberly Gnemi explained that the school is geared solely to the home chef, and is not aimed at instructing those with more professional ambitions. Nonetheless, students attending the one-day classes sometimes rise through the ranks. “Most of our chefs are home chefs who trained here and can now teach classes,” Gnemi noted.

But beyond improved cooking skills, the classes have other benefits, said Gnemi. “In each class, people collect in three groups of four.

With ten locations across the Memphis area, Healthcare Realty is the go-to source for on Baptist Memorial Hospital campuses. A variety of locations and levels of build-out provide move-in ready suites, time-share space and the ability to build to suit.

It’s your move.

The recipes are designed for four. And you’re cooking, eating together, everybody doing what they’re comfortable with, and they end up being friends. I tell people, ‘You’re going to end up finding your people in this class.’”

Burks asked, “Do you have any vegetarian classes?”

Gnemi replied, “We do not have classes dedicated to that, simply because it’s such a small part of the population.” We raised our eyebrows. “But we will make concessions for that, if you call and let us know. We can do gluten-free; we can work around anything.”

Surrounded by all the gleaming cookware and stainless-steel tables, our appetites were once more whetted. Good thing we had planned one more meal before heading home.

ITTA BENA

The previous night, a fellow diner at Fan and Johnny’s told us about Larry’s Fish House in nearby Itta Bena (population: 2,049). Having not yet sampled fried catfish, that culinary staple of the Delta, we knew what we needed to do. We arrived at high noon, the local Rotary Club meeting in full swing in the back room, as a long line formed at the cafeteria-style hot tables where fried catfish, lemon-baked catfish and barbecued catfish were being served. Of course, there were also hush puppies, cornbread, collard greens, cole slaw, and other delicacies, but the fried catfish was clearly king. If your first helping disappeared, a waitress would

bring a tray of more fish right out of the fryer to top you off. For which I was thankful.

Burks, hesitant to utter the word “vegetarian,” pled a lack of hunger to the locals, but took interest in the cole slaw. Its sweetness, unlike many slaws of the South, was subtle, a welcome surprise. Owner Larry Kelly spoke of it with pride. “That is my recipe. It wasn’i too sweet. We just put a little sugar in it to knock off the little bitter edge of the cabbage.” Still, as the little building outside of town bustled with diners, the catfish clearly held the place of pride here. Kelly claims that “if you lay one of those catfish filets on top of your head, your tongue would beat your brain out just trying to get to it.” Who are we to argue? When it comes right down to it, though, sorry, Larry. We were too full to try.

The cabernet apple salad at Giardina’s: winepoached apples with blue cheese and walnuts.

President’s Letter

By David McLemore with West Tennessee Home Builders Association

Are you tired of the way your home looks? Would you describe it as “dull” or “drab?” Is it time to add more space or upgrade the cabinets, counters, appliances, and fixtures? Do you want to increase the resale value of your home? If you answered yes to any of these questions, then it may be time to remodel. If you are considering a remodeling project, the first thing to think about is whether it’s more cost-effective to do it yourself or hire a professional.

Before you do it yourself, ask yourself the following questions:

◗ Have you ever undertaken a project like this before?

◗ Do you have the necessary tools you’ll need to complete the project?

◗ Do you know where to obtain the necessary materials?

◗ Are you familiar with the applicable building codes and permits?

◗ Do you enjoy physical labor?

◗ Do you have the time and resources to learn the skills needed?

◗ Should the project take longer than expected, are you and your family prepared to handle the inconvenience?

◗ Do you have the necessary insurance?

◗ Do you understand all the safety issues (i.e., lead paint, asbestos, or job site dangers)?

◗ What are the risks of injury?

◗ Are you familiar with the architecture and structural makeup of your home (i.e., how knocking down one wall will affect the rest of the structure)?

◗ Have you considered the possibility that you may decrease the value of your house if the result isn’t up to a professional tandard?

If you decide that a remodeling project might be too much for you, then consider hiring a professional remodeler. They offer years of experience, the right tools, a network of suppliers and subcontractors, and an in-depth understanding of legal regulations, cost estimating, scheduling, and the latest construction techniques and materials.

Since 1944, the West Tennessee Home Builders Association has been the voice of the building industry, advancing homeownership through public policy, education, networking, and professionalism in the 21 counties of the Grand Division of West Tennessee. As the largest home builders association in the state, we have members that work in all areas of the home building industry, including licensed and insured remodelers who will get the job done correctly the first time. For a complete list of remodelers, go to WWW WESTTNHBA COM

Chairman’s Message

By Hunter Cooper with Maximus Building Supply

Remodeling your home has many benefits. A home improvement can modernize your living space, enhance your comfort level, and add to the resale value of your home. As we are starting to see interest rates increase, homeowners are considering updating and remodeling their existing home (updating windows and doors, updating kitchens and bathrooms, and creating outdoor living spaces) versus buying a new home. If you have collected photos of your dream kitchen, drafted a general budget, and talked with friends about how you wish your home was more comfortable or modern, you may be ready to hire a professional remodeler to get the job done right! Here’s a helpful guide on how to get started:

Gather your ideas.

Get inspired by searching your favorite Pinterest boards and home improvement sites and save ideas in a folder or vision board as you research to help develop your remodeling plans. Identify the fixtures, textures, and materials you like. Consider how space will function and whether your new design will fit within the existing floor plan.

Determine your budget. While it’s tough to determine precisely how much a renovation will cost this early in the process, establishing a budget ceiling will allow you to start contacting professionals.

Find an expert.

Go to WWW.WESTTNHBA .COM and hover over ‘Find an Expert’ then click ‘Getting Started’ and fill out a request for proposal for the easiest and fastest way to find the right person for your project.

Scan the QR code below to search our member directory of home building industry professionals.

Maximus Building Supply, the Mid-South’s preferred supplier of building materials, offers a large selection of windows and doors from brands you trust like Marvin, Windsor, and more. Plus, our knowledgeable associates can help you select the right window or door based on your budget, neighborhood, energy-efficiency and architect specifications. We now offer an install program, certified and insured. This allows your windows and doors to be installed properly by the manufacturer’s representative.

Please visit one of our showrooms in Collierville, Olive Branch, or Oxford. MaximusBuildingSupply.com 901-853-2200

• WINDOWS • DOORS • MILLWORK

Kitchen Confidence

How one Chickasaw Gardens family refreshed their space without breaking the bank.

By Chris McCoy

Times change, and so do kitchens. If you’re building a home from scratch today, odds are you’re going to want a space large enough for both family cooking and entertaining guests. But families (and builders) haven’t always demanded so much from the kitchen. In older homes, such as a Chickasaw Gardens dwelling recently renovated by RKA Construction and Elizabeth Malmo Interior Design, the formal dining room was meant for family gatherings and parties, while the kitchen was so small it almost seemed an afterthought.

But that had to change. The homeowners, who have three young children, needed a more flexible space. “They’ve lived there for a few years,” says Logan Hall Ray, project manager for RKA Construction. “They’re repeat clients, which we love to work with. We did some work on their back porch a few years back, and that’s how we got pulled into this project.”

Elizabeth Malmo is an experienced interior designer who was educated at the New York School of Interior Design and worked as a project manager for A-list designer Miles Redd, where she helped adorn homes from San Francisco to the Upper East Side. “That was really my greatest education,” she says.

Updating the Chickasaw Gardens home presented some challenges. For one thing, it would be occupied for the duration of the project. “In those situations,” Malmo says, “I would normally say move out. Do it all at once.”

But after the disruptions of the pandemic era, the family was reluctant to

ABOVE: This airy breakfast nook was once a cluttered keeping room. Now, it provides this family of five with a place to gather for a morning meal, or for the kids to do homework and crafts. BELOW: Before the renovation, the kitchen area was cramped and dark. The bar with high chairs was added to make the space more hospitable.

uproot their children, even temporarily. So Malmo adapted. “The bones of the house are great,” she says. “It’s a very traditional floor plan. But it was flipped about 15 or 20 years ago, so it had lots of travertine, lots of beadboard, very French Country. When we first started, the question was, ‘What rooms can we tackle?’”

To avoid long-term disruption, Malmo and RKA planned their moves carefully. “Let’s go room-by-room, if we can, or do groups of rooms,” she decided. “But let’s do it all. They knew that we were going to do all of these spaces pretty quickly — it wasn’t going to be, ‘We’ll

do the dining room, and then five years later, we’ll do the living room.’ We started with the entrance hall, and then we moved to the dining room, and then suddenly it became a huge kitchen and bar renovation.”

For RKA, working in an occupied house meant making minimally invasive upgrades. “We did some built-ins in a little mud room area, and we did a few touch-ups here and there throughout the house,” says Ray. “But the main project was the kitchen and the wet bar area.”

Building the Perfect Kitchen

“Everybody lives in their kitchens differently,” says Malmo. “Typically, for our kitchen conversations, we’re sitting down with our builder, the client, an architect, or someone like Old City Millwork, drafting elevations of kitchen layouts. Sometimes, it takes hours to talk through everything that they may be doing in that kitchen. Some people aren’t cooks, so you don’t need a spice drawer,” she continues. “Some people might have a KitchenAid mixer, but they don’t want it out on the countertop. So we might add a cabinet door with a lift where it sits, so it’s able to pop up. There’s so many cool things you can do with your doors and cabinets, but I think it’s important to plan ahead.”

In this case, sitting down with the homeowners revealed that they had fairly simple needs. “One thing we saw on this project is that the homeowners have lived in the space,” says Ray. “They knew what works, they knew what didn’t work.

“They wanted to take the space that they had, lighten it up, and make it more functional. We actually left a lot of the original cabinets,” Ray continues. “We left the appliances in the same space, and used what was there to make it a more functional space.”

RIGHT: A former closet was expanded and converted into a wet bar, which now connects the living room and breakfast nook.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY E. MALMO-GOODWYN-SELAVIE PHOTOGRAPHY

The planning stage is when it’s possible to identify and fix some of daily life’s little inconveniences. “I’ll give you a good example,” says Malmo. “In this kitchen, where the dishwasher was placed, you couldn’t have the undercounter trash can and the dishwasher open at the same time.”

A few moments of forethought could have saved homeowners decades of hassle — and Malmo was determined not to repeat such mistakes. “That was such an easy fix,” she says. “There were three cabinet boxes in a row. All we did was move the trash can two cabinets down, so they could use the trash can and the dishwasher together. It was a very simple thing to do.”

But the rest of the kitchen upgrade wasn’t so simple. “In this project, we didn’t have to change anything structurally — we just changed everything other than the structure of the kitchen. It got a total facelift — new cabinets, new countertops. We lifted the case opening between the kitchen and the breakfast room. That opened the room up a little bit more. We added a lot of electrical — different art lights, pendants, and whatnot. But overall, it wasn’t a structural change.”

Connecting with the Home

“We didn’t change all the cabinets, we just changed all the finishes,” says Malmo. “Right now we’re doing more cabinetry that’s not all white. I’m working on a lake house at the moment, and we’re doing kind of green-gray cabinets. We have a project in Midtown where we’re doing blue kitchen cabinets, and I think it’s going to be really fun. I think the all-white kitchen is going to forever be a classic, but people are being more playful in their finishes. I love color — I’ve always been drawn to color and pattern and a little bit of whimsy.”

Malmo chose a particular shade of blue for subtle accents, such as the line of stools along the kitchen’s bar. She says a keeping room next to the kitchen had outlived its usefulness. “Originally, that space where the breakfast table is now had a sofa and two club chairs. The homeowners and I talked about it, and they wondered, could we get away from a keeping room situation here? Could we have a table?”

Malmo decided it was better to use the space for a table. “Before, everything

felt very crammed in, and with their three children, it became a playroom in their kitchen. Now they have a playroom upstairs, and you can walk through the breakfast nook to the pantry or the wet bar or the family room. It’s kind of forcing the kids and the family to spend time in the family room and not junk up the kitchen area. And now they have a nice place to do homework, too.”

The most dramatic transformation was a little room just off the breakfast nook. “This dramatic, funky wet bar actually used to be a closet,” says Malmo. “We busted through it.”

Connecting the kitchen and family room areas, the wet bar reversed the kitchen color scheme. The blue is prominent in the room’s patterned wallpaper, while white became an accent color.

“That’s how we usually work, says Malmo. “Even though we didn’t execute their rooms at the same time, we did have a sense of what was going to happen in the next space. I think it’s important that the rooms reference one another. I like to pick a color — whether

it’s blue or aqua or green or pink — and have little bits of that sprinkled throughout the house, just so you’re feeling like it’s part of a whole. Then there are moments when I think contrast is important.”

Ray says Malmo’s eye for color was invaluable to the renovation process. “She did a wonderful job tying that space together,” he says. “I think using lighter colors in the kitchen really opened up the space. And then she played with the color in the bar, and that turned out really amazing. Elizabeth took what was there and made a smaller kitchen into a very usable and functional space for the homeowners. The homeowners knew what they needed and we were able to give them that.”

“I loved working with RKA,” says Malmo, “and I adore this family. They’re hilarious and fun, and we really worked together. It was definitely collaborative. I think the design is a good representation of their personalities, so it ended up being a successful project.”

ABOVE (L-R): The white and blue color scheme connects the kitchen and wet bar areas. The homeowners are renovating one room at a time. Extensive accent lighting was added to the kitchen area, for both practical and decorative purposes. The formal dining room of the Chickasaw Gardens home.

WTNHBA 2023 Remodelers Council Members List

Hunter Cooper, Chair — Maximus Building Supply hcooper@thriftybuilding.com, 901-598-4868

Drew Kimberlin, ViCe Chair — Williamsburg Home Services dkimberlin@williamsburg.build, 901-614-3100

Eric Catmur, immediate Past Chair — Catmur Development eric.catmur@gmail.com, 901-680-8200

Patrick Mahoney, Past Presidents adVisor — Remodeling Consultants Inc. Pat@RemodelingConsultantsInc.com, 901-870-5471

Art Gettings — Art Gettings Construction artgettings@gmail.com, 901-605-9178

Tommy Byrnes — Byrnes Ostner Investments tommy@byrnesostner.com, 901-681-0499

John Catmur — Catmur Development Company catmurdc@comcast.net, 901-680-8200

Alan Hargett — Central Woodwork ahargett@cenwood.com, 901-363-4141

Cory Wheat — Colonial Electric Company cory@colonialelectriccompany.com, 901-356-1026

Dave Moore — Dave Moore Companies dave@davemoorecompanies.com, (901) 870-7372

Mark Beck — Designer Millworx mark.capitalconstruction@gmail.com, 901-610-8226

Destiny Herter — Designer Wholesale Kitchen Bath and Floors destiny.designerwholesalefloor@gmail.com, 901-563-8989

John Heard — John Heard Company jheardhomes@gmail.com, (901) 756-6167

Ryan Anderson — RKA Construction ryan@rka.build, (901) 465-3400

Ned Savage — Savage Tile Company savagetileco@bellsouth.net, 901-363-9607

Todd Becker — PPG Paints tmbecker@ppg.com, 901-297-3158

Tommy Peeler — Midtown Cabinetry & Millwork tommy@midtownmill.com, 901-485-3316

Joel Enochs — JA Contractors LLC joel@jacontractors.net, 901-522-5235

Scott Trimble — Revival Restoration Services info@revivalrestore.com, 901-401-8500

Adam Fonseca — Fonseca Construction LLC, fonseca.built@gmail.com, 901-496-8403

Robert Edward Whitsitt Sr. — EZRA52, LLC Bob@ezra52.org, 901-848-4033

Phillip Qualls — CrewPros phillip@crewpros.com, 901-221-4033

Joseph Coster — Iron Crafters joseph@ironcraftersusa.com, (662) 224-6658

Lynda Climer — Capital Investments lyndaclimer@yahoo.com, 731-217-3827

Evan Tinder — Williamsburg Home Services evan@williamsburg.build, 901-614-3100

Grace Shaw — Countertops of Memphis grace@countertopsofmemphis.com, 901-614-0200

Kip Gordon — RKA Construction kip@rka.build, 901-465-3400

Mike Reilly — Southern Screens/ Phantom Screens mike@midsouthphantom.com, 901-758-2121

Chris Hatcher — Hatcher Homes hatcherhomesgc@gmail.com, 901-831-0975

LD Humphreys — Riverhaus Properties, LLC LD@humphreysbuilders.com, 901-870-3374

Robert McCage — Rapid Roofing and Construction LLC Rapidroofingandconstruction@gmail.com, 1-731-617-0249

Mindy Rackham — Lowe’s Home Centers mindy.a.rackham@lowes.com, 901-573-7505

Dewayne Gammel — Renovate Memphis, LLC info@renovatememphis.com, 901-300-6805

Thomas Sheddan — McLemore Home Builders thomas@mclemorehomes.com, 901-553-0349

Richard Gregory — Crye Leike Realtors wrgreg3@gmail.com, 901-372-3690

Patrick Gardner — Gardner Construction Solutions patrick@gardnermemphis.com, 901-205-8305

©Jeffrey Jacobs Photography

CONGRATULATIONS!

From everyone at eBiz Solutions, a hearty congratulations to the winners of IMB’s 2023 CEO of the Year Awards. We are truly grateful to cosponsor this prestigious event that recognizes talents, values, leadership, and contributions to our growing community.

Since 2005, eBiz has guided companies to unlock their digital potential through crafting digital experiences. eBiz's "GUIDE (Gather, Understand, Imagine, Deliver, Evolve)" a digital maturity framework that empowers companies to accelerate their digital transformation journey through strategic consulting, innovation, business process automation, and creating digital culture in the workplace. As a Microsoft Gold Partner, we specialize in Microsoft 365/Teams, SharePoint, Dynamics 365, Dynamics CRM, and Power Platform, as well as Mobile Apps, and Low-Code No-Code platforms.

For more than a decade now, Inside Memphis Business has celebrated CEOs of the Year, recognizing visionaries and executives who go above and beyond to elevate both their companies and their community. And every year, we gather the CEOs at a sponsored awards breakfast to honor them in front of their peers and the community, and hear them speak about their work in Memphis.

Last year, we revised our longstanding format of selecting four winners based on company size. Instead, Inside Memphis Business now looks for five worthy leaders who are going above and beyond for their companies.Memphis is bold, creative,and

CEOs OF THE YEAR 2023

forward-thinking, and there are so many executives and CEOs who embody those traits as they elevate their teams to the next level.

Throughout our nomination and selection process, we received plenty of outstanding candidates and top-quality executives who hail from a diverse range of industries. This year, our five CEO of the Year winners have demonstrated outstanding leadership and overcome the serious challenges facing their organizations.

to reduce senior food insecurity through the Meals on Wheels program, and took that fight all the way to the House Rules Committee. Doug Browne has kept the historic Peabody Hotel as a local and national treasure, and constantly works to better Memphis as Greater Memphis Chamber chairman. And Archer Malmo CEO Russ Williams recently led celebrations of the firm’s 70th birthday as an independent agency before transferring ownership of the company into the hands of its 140 employees.

top, left to right:

Russell Wigginton

David S. Waddell

Sally Jones Heinz

Doug Browne

Russ Williams

Russell Wigginton at the National Civil Rights Museum is laser-focused on preparing the organization, and its mission, for a step onto the national stage. David S. Waddell weathered a fierce financial storm at Waddell & Associates, and has his wealth management firm growing at an unprecedented rate. Sally Jones Heinz at the Metropolitan Inter-Faith Association has continued

All of our 2023 CEO of the Year winners have done an exceptional job, and we hope to see you at 7:30 a.m. on March 7th at Memphis Botanic Garden to hear from them and to celebrate all they’ve done for Memphis. ose interested can buy tickets at bigtickets. com/events/contemporary-media/ceo-2023 In the meantime, enjoy our five winners’ stories in the profiles featured on the following pages. Every story and anecdote should fill you with a growing feeling of civic pride. After all, every success they toast is another win for Memphis.

DR. RUSSELL WIGGINTON — NATIONAL CIVIL RIGHTS

MUSEUM —

The head of the National Civil Rights Museum prepares the organization to take an assertive step into the national scene.

BY FRANK MURTAUGH

Every chief executive officer has a job, but not every CEO can be said to have a mission. Certainly not the kind Russell Wigginton is tasked with leading as president of the National Civil Rights Museum. He considers his words carefully in defining the synchronistic missions of man and museum: “How do we lift up the power of the movement and the comprehensive experience of African Americans in this country, and put it in a framework so it’s not just arm’s length for our country and our world?

Whether you were living [during the civil rights movement] or not, you can touch it, you can relate to it, you can be challenged by it … in your life. You have to do more than create beautiful exhibits or have conversations. You have to create space by which people, regardless of background, can be in community and have both a collective and personal experience. You have to live it.”

Having helped create the museum’s fi rst internship program in the late ’90s (during his days as a history professor at Rhodes College), and having served on the NCRM board for more than a decade, Wigginton lived the institution’s mission for a quarter-century before being named president in August 2021. “I spend very little time thinking about the alleged differences we have, across the spectrum,” says Wigginton. “I think more about the commonality.”

Born in Louisville, Wigginton’s roots spring from soil stirred by titans of the civil rights movement. His father graduated from that city’s Central High School with Muhammad Ali (Cassius

Clay at the time) and later shared a residential suite at Howard University with Stokely Carmichael. “I was an introspective kid,” says Wigginton. “I would play outside, but then I’d stand in the corner, easing in on conversations [with adults]. I loved their stories. I learned so much about their journeys.”

Wigginton started at point guard for the Rhodes basketball team his fi rst two years as an undergrad, but hung up his sneakers as a junior to give more time and energy to his studies (he was a history major) and his role as president of the Black Students Association. A glimpse of his future, and current role with the NCRM, came in January 1987 when Wigginton organized a campus speaker for the fi rst official Martin Luther King Jr. holiday. “Rhodes was still having classes on the holiday,” explains Wigginton, “but we set up the podium right in front of the cafeteria door at lunchtime. We were going to build an audience.”

Fast-forward three-and-a-half decades, and what kind of audience is Wigginton building as a CEO? e NCRM is a relatively

small operation (50 employees), but reaches well beyond the Mid-South. “ e most important thing for me,” emphasizes Wigginton, “is that our employees treat everybody here with dignity and respect. I don’t talk to them much about their work. If you’re not passionate about your job in a place like this, your peers will likely drive you away. Take personal pride in your responsibilities. I don’t have a deeper message than that.”

How does the NCRM improve? How does Wigginton expand its impact? “I’m a historian by training,” he says, “but I spend most of my time thinking about the future. This is the time for us to make an assertive step into the national space. We do that in areas where we are distinctive. We have a voice, a platform, and a responsibility to lead in education, arts and culture, and economic empowerment. We aim to work with national partners to accent our voice at a time when it’s noisy in our world. A place like ours, when we speak boldly, with facts and data, the noise can temper itself, and we can be heard.”

DAVID S. WADDELL

—

WADDELL

& ASSOCIATES — Focusing on the human aspects of fi nance has poised the fi rm for continued growth.

BY SAMUEL X. CICCI

David Waddell has a simple dream: He wants to be able to spend more time on his boat. It’s a fitting goal, as his parents, Duke and Clara, first came up with the idea for their company while living on a boat in Ocean Ridge, FL. But it’s also a tough reality to achieve for the busy CEO of wealth management firm Waddell & Associates (W&A), who splits time working with clients; managing teams in Memphis, Nashville, and a small satellite office in Aspen; and overseeing the company’s growth. But keeping sight of the dream helps keep his eye on the prize. And Waddell isn’t the only one at the office with a specific dream.

“Everyone at the office made a little photographic cutout of what they were striving for and put it on their desk,” he says. “Karen down the hall from me wants to own a castle in Europe, which isn’t as expensive as you might think, so she’s got a picture of a castle. Theresa next door wants to spend a month in Ireland, for example. So we all did this, and the firm came together and we all thought about how we make these dreams achievable for each individual.”

Having these goals keeps Waddell and his team focused on the future, but that kind of approach extends beyond those in his employ. He thinks of his company as a relationship business, with a client-centric approach, rather than simply one of transactions. And their work handling portfolios goes well beyond simply analyzing numbers on a page. “We do so much more than that,” he says. “We view wealth more comprehensively than just numbers; it’s about setting a visible goal, rather than growing a number. It’s about getting to that specific moment of

satisfaction. What are our clients aiming for, and how do we tailor our approach so they can hit their specific targets?”

W&A uses all the connections at their disposal to help clients, even those outside the world of finance and economics. If a client needs a new doctor, the team looks for one they can recommend; if one is looking to purchase a new boat, they’ll put out feelers to boat brokers in their network. “It’s a vast ecosystem we’ve built up that comes to bear on client relationships, more so than your typical salesperson or financial advisor.”

Focusing on the human aspect has led W&A to great success since Waddell took over the family business in 2004 from his parents. And with the company recently seeing considerable growth, he’s excited for the third generation of company leaders to help propel the business forward. “We brought Sean Gould into the partnership last year, representing generation three at the company. You have to grow partnerships lightly, they’re people who go into battle with you, who you trust your kids with, invite over to anksgiving dinners.”

With additional leadership power, the firm seeks to embrace

more innovation. “We’re bolstering our mastery of investments and financial planning,” says Waddell. “We’re looking to add rockstar brokers in all our markets, and we’re thinking about a COO search.” Waddell also plans to utilize open architecture platforms (which enable investment firms to offer both in-house and third-party products and services) to help fully optimize costs for clients, such as insurance premiums, debt, and other expenses. Getting those under one umbrella will help grow the balance sheet for clients, and the firm is ready to embrace new technology that will let it break into spaces it hasn’t occupied before.

And despite a rollercoaster couple of years due to Covid and an economic downturn, the company is now experiencing its fastest rate of growth ever. “For many of us, it unfortunately wasn’t our first recession. So 2022 was kind of for playing defense, mitigating losses. Now, the market is more vulnerable, and it’s time to go on the offensive. We’ll have negotiating power, we’ve got the technology, and we’ve got the client appetite for it. At W&A we’ve got the right employees and the right culture, and we’re ready to keep growing.”

SALLY JONES HEINZ

— MIFA —

Tackling food insecurity among seniors on both the hyperlocal and national stages is one of her priorities.

BY ABIGAIL MORICI

Growing up in Memphis, Sally Jones Heinz was familiar with the Metropolitan Inter-Faith Association (MIFA). Her father taught at Rhodes College, where a fellow faculty member’s spouse — her best friend’s mother — recruited other spouses to volunteer with the organization that provided meals to food-insecure seniors and assisted vulnerable families in crisis. “Because it was the 1970s, the volunteers were mostly women, who were really yearning for something

impactful to do,” Heinz recalls. “They came to MIFA and just started all kinds of amazing programs.”

Decades later, in 2007, once Heinz was around the age these women were when they started volunteering, she, too, would find herself building on MIFA’s legacy as vice president of development. At the time, Heinz’s parents were aging. “I was at that point where I was thinking about what caretaking was going to look like for them and what their lives were going to look like,” she says. “And so the mission of MIFA — supporting the independence of seniors — felt really attractive for me.” By 2011, she was named president and CEO of the nonprofit.

Currently, MIFA offers basic interventions to prevent homelessness for Shelby County families, for instance, by providing utility, rent, and mortgage assistance for those who have lost income or experienced a recent crisis. But perhaps MIFA’s most well-known program is Meals on Wheels, which started in 1975 and delivered meals to almost 4,000 seniors in 2022, with hopes to grow this year both in terms of impact and the number of clients served.

Last year, the West End Home Foundation awarded MIFA a grant to provide 50 of its Meals on Wheels clients with tablets outfitted for older individuals to bridge the digital divide that can isolate them. In general, especially in the aftermath of the pandemic, technological innovation has helped smooth day-to-day operations within the nonprofit, including tracking meal deliveries and administering emergency assistance applications online. “We’ve learned that to really continue to be impactful in our community, we have to be strategic and innovative,” Heinz says. “And the pandemic certainly gave us a crash course in that.

“I think back to that experience, now that we’re maybe emerging from the pandemic, and I feel like one of the reasons MIFA was so strong was that we kept our mission as our North Star. And so there was really never a question. We all just did it.”

And that work didn’t go unnoticed. In 2021, U.S. Representative Jim McGovern from Massachusetts invited Heinz to testify before the House Rules Committee about food insecurity among seniors. is meeting ultimately led, in 2022, to the White House Con-

ference on Hunger, Nutrition, and Health, which created a framework for ending hunger by 2030.

“Hunger shouldn’t continue to be the problem of the size that it is and in a country like the United States,” Heinz says. “Memphis, until last year, was ranked [by e State of Senior Hunger] as having the highest rate of food insecurity for seniors of any large metropolitan area. Now, we’re number three [at a rate of 11.4 percent].”

While innovation is emphasized in the coming years’ strategic plan to change that figure, delivering meals and offering a bit of company remain at the core of the nonprofit, and the results continue to be positive, with clients reporting feeling stronger, eating healthier, and living independently longer.

“I try to get out and deliver when I can because there’s nothing else that reminds you of the importance of the work in the same way,” Heinz says. “ ere are very few volunteer opportunities that give you the chance to really engage with someone else. It’s so elegantly simple that sometimes you have to remind people that so many [positive effects] can be layered into that delivery.”

DOUG BROWNE

— PEABODY HOTELS AND RESORTS — Browne keeps the internationally renowned Peabody Memphis a fun place for employees, guests, and even dogs and ducks.

BY JON W. SPARKS

You can’t tell the story of Douglas Browne without mentioning Tango. As general manager of The Peabody, Browne strives to make the hotel a fun place for employees to work as well as a fine destination for guests. His beloved dog, Tango, gets along with everyone, takes meetings, and is content to hang out with his duck chew toy (but he doesn’t mess with the live ducks in the lobby). It’s a sign of leadership that Browne wants the environment at e

Peabody to be inviting to workers as well as visitors — all of whom keep the storied hotel at the top of many hospitality lists. And the fi rst thing he’ll tell you is that growing and sustaining an organization means paying attention to his team. “You’re only as good as the people that surround you, and this is hard for some people,” he says. “Sometimes it’s even hard for me listening to those people because they’re not always going to tell you what you want to hear.”

But the team has been crucial to keeping e Peabody successful, whether through normal times or through a pandemic. “We kept our leadership team intact during Covid,” he says, “and we are seeing it pay off when other hotels around the country are suffering. We’re actually thriving.”

e Peabody kept its sales team together, as well as conference services and marketing. “We came out of Covid ready to go, whereas a lot of hotels had to rebuild.”

Even so, the pandemic meant e Peabody had to replace about 400 employees. But welcoming them into the culture and training them were greatly helped by having stable leadership. And, Browne is quick to note, the ducks never stopped marching.

Browne started at e Peabody 20 years ago and faced immediate challenges. “We needed to completely redo the hotel,” he says. “ e guest rooms were tired, the lobby was tired. Everything had really been run down. Tunica had just opened, and a lot of our staff left to go there.”

He jumped on the challenges and fell in love with Memphis after his career had taken him to properties around the country, plus the Caribbean and Mexico. He’d expected to move on after two or three years, as was common for hotel executives, but Browne soon realized he was where he wanted to be. He was getting support from hotel own-

ers Belz Enterprises, and Downtown was gathering steam with more people moving in and more restaurants adding to the appeal.

Soon enough, Browne was getting more and more attached to the city. He’s chairman of the board of the Greater Memphis Chamber, and has long associations with Memphis in May, the Liberty Bowl, the Orpheum, and other boards. And e Peabody is constantly upgrading, nowadays with a $2.5 million elevator modernization, a $10 million rooms renovation, and an upcoming new restaurant, the Peabody Diner.

It’s his mission (and Tango’s) to keep the landmark hotel vital in coming years. “We like calling ourself the South’s Grand Hotel,” Browne says. “We’re staying true to our roots. And it’s important that we create memories. ere is a Memphis feel and a sense of place. There’s quality and luxury and you really feel the history of it.”

RUSS WILLIAMS

— ARCHER MALMO —

Russ Williams maintains Archer Malmo’s status as a successful independent ad agency — that in 2022, was sold to its employees— through creativity, humility, and adaptability.

BY SAMUEL X. CICCI

Champagne corks popped and streamers streamed in 2022 at Archer Malmo, as the agency celebrated its 70th anniversary as an independent entity. e firm has continued to excel throughout its history, becoming a major player in the Memphis market, and boasting another team in Austin alongside remote workers nationwide. Russ Williams, CEO, has been a significant force behind that sustained success, though he won’t say so. e now two-time CEO of the Year

award-winner told Inside Memphis Business in his original 2016 profile that an agency’s high achievement comes from “fi lling your team with a truckload of intellectual horsepower … they line up to tell me how the world is changing and how we have to adapt.”

Seven years on, and Williams’ message remains largely the same. “Our product here at Archer Malmo is our talent,” he says. “You’ve got lots of creative people working together. You create this culture and this process where all these talented people can collaborate and execute great ideas, where the whole is even greater than the sum of its parts.”

Recognizing the importance of his employees isn’t just lip service for Williams. In the summer of 2022, he and the agency’s other owners decided to double down and transfer ownership to their 140 employees through an employee stock ownership plan (ESOP). That decision kept the focus firmly on cultivating a good workplace culture, and also helps maintain the agency’s autonomy going forward.

“It’s a firm stake in the ground to remain fiercely independent,” says Williams. “Employees, as owners of the company, have a greater sense of belonging, influence, and opportunity. And it helps to attract and retain talent.”

It’s a big change for the agency, but adaptability is a cornerstone of Williams’ tenure at Archer Malmo. eir line of work, he says, is very dynamic and volatile during the best of times; fi rms risk closure or acquisitions if they aren’t consistently at the top of their game. “ ere aren’t many agencies of our size that have been independent for so long,” he says. “It’s a challenge, and this new path only helps make us more durable.” It also, adds Williams, helps the firm chart a course under new leadership.

“I think what I, and previous leaders at Archer Malmo, have done is look at themselves as stewards of the business,” he says. “It was successful before I came along, and will remain so after I step down. As our ownership group gets older, we do have to

think about that leadership transition when the time comes.”

While nothing is set in stone, Williams says he plans to step down as CEO in the next couple of years and transition into a role as CFO. “ at generational transition isn’t an overnight thing, and I’d really like to continue working for this company that I love. But it’s beginning to feel like the sunset is approaching for my generation here and the opportunities we’ve had to lead, and it’s time for the sun to shine on new generations.”

Until then, Archer Malmo will continue to diligently and creatively serve their clients, just as they’ve done for 70 years and counting. And if new trends and technology shake up the landscape over the next decade, don’t bet against the agency. “If you wake up every day thinking you have all the answers, it’s a struggle to survive and prosper,” says Williams. “I think humility, adaptability, and openness to change will always be key factors in leadership here at Archer Malmo.”

Levy’s Ladies Toggery

Our history expert solves local mysteries: who, what, when, where, why. and why not. Well, sometimes.

BY VANCE LAUDERDALE

the Mid-South capital that had weathered the ravages of a civil war and disastrous yellow fever epidemics.” He must have liked what he found here, because he quickly summoned his younger brother, Leo E. Levy, to join him.

Within a year, the Levys opened a small clothing store at Main and Calhoun, “founded on the same principle of quality merchandising that was to prove the lodestone of later success.” That success came quickly. In 1903, they opened a larger store at 100 South Main, with a special focus on high-end women’s fashions.

A disaster almost ended their enterprise when a 1915 fire damaged that building. The Levy brothers rebuilt the store and reopened it within a few months, and even expanded by purchasing the property next door.

The biggest event in the company’s history came in 1929, when the brothers purchased the property at 82 South Main. Originally constructed in the late 1800s, the building had long been home to Kress, before that business moved into its stunning new home, just dripping with colorful terra-cotta, across from Court Square.

DEAR VANCE: An old building Downtown, at Main and Union, carries a shiny black marble plaque adorned with four cryptic symbols. What is the purpose of this mysterious marker? — T.L., MEMPHIS.

DEAR T.L.: What you’ve discovered is the logo of a highclass clothing store “that would have ranked with the best in all of America.” That’s a bold claim, but in 1930 that’s how The Commercial Appeal described Levy’s Ladies Toggery, “where nothing has been spared to make the new store a credit to the labor and integrity of the Levy Brothers.”

The curious symbols on that plaque, by the way, depict a woman’s hat, a box with a ribbon, a high-heeled shoe (that one is obvious), and a fur stole. All of these items — and many more — could be purchased at Levy’s. Here’s how it all came about.

In 1881, Joseph B. Levy left his home in the Alsace region of France and immigrated to Memphis. According to company histories, “he sensed opportunity in

When the brothers opened the new store in 1930, Joseph Levy told reporters, “We are still old-fashioned, in the sense that we have never allowed quality to be replaced by price. We have never allowed reckless volume to replace fine merchandise. And we still believe in genuineness, honesty, and fair dealing.”

Fur coats and other accessories played a major role in Levy’s sales. (Mother Lauderdale was particularly fond of her muskrat stole, hat, cape, coat, gloves, boots, belt, and earmuffs.)

They transformed the old building into a modern retail establishment, but added personal touches that made it a charming place to shop. Noting a sales force of more than 100, newspapers reported, “These clerks have completed special training so they will be able to give customers expert assistance in making their selections and blending colors.”

The ground floor offered accessories — jewelry, shoes, gloves, and toiletry items. The second floor was home to something called the Evening Salon, along with the junior department, a corset salon, and special fitting rooms, “done in a pastel shade, each a different color.” These included windows with Venetian blinds, “to allow customers to view their dresses in natural light.” And just to show what an exclusive place this was, the Levy’s dressing-room policy was: “Only one evening dress will be shown to a customer at a time.”

The third floor held a lounge, the sports shop (“for outdoor lines”), a beauty salon, and company offices. According to the CA, “The sumptuously appointed store has been decorated in the Louis XVI motif with woodwork of walnut. The windows are carved in the Italian Renaissance idea, and rooms on the second

floor will have hand-painted decorations and lighting fixtures imported from France.”

Levy’s held a grand opening on January 14, 1930. The CA observed that “matrons of society took part in a program when the store was formally presented to Memphis and Mayor Watkins Overton.” After that came an elaborate fashion show, as you might expect. Some of those fashions sound a bit, well, unusual. For example, “Breath-taking in their smartness are the stop-caution-go sports suits from Del Monte Hickey. The ‘stop’ costume is a sand-grey suit with a bright-red swagger coat. The ‘caution’ model is a grey suit with chamois for the yellow. And the ‘go’ outfit is a grey suit with a vivid green coat.”

Levy’s completed with other exclusive shops offering personalized service, such as Helen of Memphis, and the Levy Brothers soon acquired an adjacent building to the east, which became home to a men’s and boys’ department. By this time, they had dropped the quaint “Ladies Toggery” from the name, and the establishment became known as simply Levy’s.

Fur coats and other accessories played a major role in Levy’s sales. (Mother Lauderdale was particularly fond of her muskrat stole, hat, cape, coat, gloves, boots, belt, and earmuffs.) In 1936, the store converted its massive basement into the Levy’s Dry Cold Storage Vault for customers’ furs. Newspapers reported it “stands every test. It is burglar-proof, moth-proof, dust-proof, and heat-proof. It is ultra-modern, built of walls 13 inches thick, and lined with five inches of cork.” The refrigeration equipment kept the temperature inside at four degrees below zero, which seems awfully frigid to me — “equal to the melting of ten tons of ice daily.”

But why focus on keeping only the basement ice-cold? That same year, Levy’s “became the first ladies’ shop in Memphis to be cooled by conditioned air” and “one of the first in the nation to use the new cooling methods of the Carrier Corporation, Weathermakers to the World.”

In 1950, the Levy Brothers announced bold plans to move beyond Downtown. They purchased property at the southwest corner of Union and McLean and announced plans for a “suburban” store. For some reason, they never followed through on this. Instead, a few years later, Leo Levy — Joseph had passed away sometime earlier — sold the Main Street property to Weiss Brothers, a national chain of retailers based in New York City. “If I were a younger man, or had children to carry on the business, I would never sell,” Leo told reporters. “But I will be 88 in December.” Even so, he promised to keep an office at the store, and “I’ll be out on the floor every day.”

The new owners introduced the Popular Price Shop, “the idea being that milady might welcome a chance to put together an ensemble in the moderate price range

without doing a lot of walking.” This would allow for “quick assembly of an outfit.”

In 1960, Levy’s finally moved east, opening a second location in Poplar Plaza. The exterior featured an ultra-modern design, with glazed brick and backlighted metal panels. The interior was more traditional, “decorated in a Williamsburg effect with the use of sandblasted oak.” Next came a third store, in the newly opened Southland Mall.

By all standards, Levy’s was a success. In 1967, Harper’s Bazaar presented the owners with a medallion, declaring it one of the magazine’s “100 Stores of the Century.”

So where is Levy’s today? Well, customers won’t find one in Memphis. In 1971, those New York retailers changed the store name to Gus Mayer, linking it with others in that chain throughout the Southeast. I’m not sure why they bothered. Within a year, they closed the Main Street and Southland Mall stores. The Gus Mayer branch in Poplar Plaza managed to survive until 1985, when it closed as well.

In its day, Levy’s wasn’t just a shopping destination for “milady.” Elvis Presley even shopped there. The story goes that after he returned to Memphis from his stint in the Army, he strolled in one day, picked out some fancy shirts, and tossed a blank check on the counter. He had signed it, but the clerk protested, “Mr. Presley, you didn’t fill in the amount.” Walking away, the King of Rock-and-Roll responded, “Oh, I trust you.”

above: The old Levy’s Ladies Toggery is hard to miss, an imposing (and empty) building at the southeast corner of Main and Union.

opposite page: In the 1930s, this billboard on Madison promised Levy’s customers a “Quantity of Quality.”

Got a question for Vance?

EMAIL: askvance@memphismagazine.com

MAIL: Vance Lauderdale, Memphis magazine, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101

ONLINE: memphismagazine.com/ ask-vance

Or visit him on Facebook.

Memphis Dining Guide

A Curated Guide to Eating Out

Memphis magazine offers this curated restaurant listing as a service to our readers. Broken down alphabetically by neighborhoods, this directory does not list every restaurant in town. It does, however, include the magazine’s “Top 50” choices of must-try restaurants in Memphis, a group that is updated every August. Establishments open less than a year are not eligible for “Top 50” but are noted as “New.” is guide also includes a representative sampling of other Bluff City eating establishments. No fast-food facilities or cafeterias are listed. Restaurants are included regardless of whether they advertise in Memphis magazine; those that operate in multiple locations are listed under the neighborhood of their original location. is guide is updated regularly, but we recommend that you call ahead to check on hours, prices, or other details. Suggestions from readers are welcome; please contact Samuel X. Cicci at scicci@contemporary-media.com.

DOWNTOWN

117 PRIME—Restaurateurs Craig Blondis and Roger Sapp team up with Chef Ryan Trimm to recreate the traditional American steakhouse. Serving oysters on the half shell and a variety of surf and turf options. 117 Union. 433-9851. L, D, WB, X, $-$$$

ALDO’S PIZZA PIES—Serving gourmet pizzas — including Mr. T Rex — salads, and more. Also 30 beers, bottled or on tap. 100 S. Main. 577-7743; 752 S. Cooper. 725-7437. L, D, X, $-$$

THE ARCADE—Possibly Memphis’ oldest cafe. Specialties include sweet potato pancakes, a fried peanut butter and banana sandwich, and breakfast served all day. 540 S. Main. 526-5757. B, L, D (Thurs.-Sat.), X, MRA, $

AUTOMATIC SLIM’S—Longtime Downtown favorite specializes in contemporary American cuisine emphasizing local ingredients; also extensive martini list. 83 S. Second. 525-7948. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$

BACKLOT SANDWICH SHOP—Big sandwiches, breakfast bowls, and build-your-own-biscuits for breakfast, lunch, and an early supper. 265 S. Front St. 509-8612. B, L, D, $

BARDOG TAVERN—Classic American grill with Italian influence, Bardog offers pasta specialties such as Grandma’s NJ Meatballs, as well as salads, sliders, sandwiches, and daily specials. 73 Monroe. 275-8752. B (Mon.-Fri.), L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$

BEDROCK EATS & SWEETS—Memphis’ only Paleo-centric restaurant, offering such dishes as pot roast, waffles, enchiladas, chicken salad, omelets, and more. Closed for dinner Sun. 327 S. Main. 409-6433. B, L, D, X, $-$$

BELLE TAVERN—Serving elevated bar food, including a butcher board with a variety of meats and cheeses, as well as daily specials. 117 Barboro Alley. 249-6580. L (Sun.), D, MRA, $

BEN YAY’S GUMBO SHOP—Spiritual successor to DejaVu, offering fresh and authentic Creole staples. 51 S. Main St., 779-4125. L, D, X, $-$$

BISHOP—Ticer and Hudman’s newest venture at the Central Station Hotel features upscale dishes in a French brasserie style. 545 S. Main St., 524-5247. L, D, X, $$-$$$

CAPRICCIO GRILL ITALIAN STEAKHOUSE—Offers prime steaks, fresh seafood (lobster tails, grouper, mahi mahi), pasta, and several Northern Italian specialties. 149 Union, The Peabody. 529-4199. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$$

CAROLINA WATERSHED—This indoor/outdoor eatery, set around silos, features reimagined down-home classics, including fried green tomatoes with smoked catfish, a buttermilk fried chicken sandwich, burgers, and more. Closed Mon.-Thurs. 141 E. Carolina. 321-5553. L, D, WB, $-$$

CATHERINE & MARY’S—A variety of pastas, grilled quail, pâté, razor clams, and monkfish are among the dishes served at this Italian restaurant in the Chisca. 272 S. Main. 254-8600. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$

CHEF TAM’S UNDERGROUND CAFE—Serves Southern staples with a Cajun twist. Menu items include totchoes, jerk wings, fried chicken, and “muddy” mac and cheese. Closed Sun. and Mon. 668 Union Ave. 207-6182. L, D, X, $-$$

CHEZ PHILIPPE—Classical/contemporary French cuisine with Asian and Nordic influences, presented in a luxurious atmosphere with seasonal tasting menus. Afternoon tea served Wed.-Sat., 1-3:30 p.m. (reservations required). Closed Sun.-Tues. The Peabody, 149 Union. 529-4188. D, X, MRA, $$$$

DINING SYMBOLS

B — breakfast

L — lunch

D — dinner

SB — Sunday brunch

WB — weekend brunch

X— wheelchair accessible

MRA — member, Memphis Restaurant Association

$ — under $15 per person without drinks or desserts

$$ — under $25

$$$ — $26-$50

$$$$ — over $50

BLEU—This eclectic restaurant features American food with global influences and local ingredients. Among the specialties are a 14-oz. bone-in ribeye and several seafood dishes. 221 S. Third, in the Westin Memphis Beale St. Hotel. 334-5950. B, L, D, WB, X, MRA, $$-$$$

BLUEFIN RESTAURANT & SUSHI LOUNGE—Serves Japanese fusion cuisine featuring seafood and steak, with seasonally changing menu; also a sushi bar. 135 S. Main. 528-1010. L, D, X, $-$$

BRASS DOOR IRISH PUB—Irish and New-American cuisine includes such entrees as fish and chips, burgers, shepherd’s pie, all-day Irish breakfast, and more. 152 Madison. 572-1813. L, D, SB, $-$$

BY THE BREWERY—Breakfast and lunch café, with a focus on Southern-style biscuits, salads, and soups. 496 Tennessee St. 310-4341. B, L, $

CAFE KEOUGH—European-style cafe serving quiche, paninis, salads, and more. 12 S. Main. 509-2469. B, L, D, X, $

CIMAS—It’s breakfast tacos, shrimp and grits, chilaquiles verdes, and plenty of other Southern and Latin-American twists at the Hyatt Centric. 33 Beale St. 444-3232. B, L, D, X, $-$$$

THE CLOVER CLUB Southern fusion and internationally-inspired small plates at Hotel Indigo. 22 N. B.B. King. B, L, D, X, $-$$ COCOZZA AMERICAN ITALIAN—”The red sauce joint of your dreams” serves up classic Italian-American fare from the owners of Majestic Grille. Closed Sun. 110 Harbor Town Sq. 609-1111. D, X, $-$$ COZY CORNER—Serving up ribs, pork sandwiches, chicken, spaghetti, and more; also homemade banana pudding. Closed Mon. 735 N. Parkway. 527-9158. L, D, $

CURFEW—An elevated sports bar/American tavern concept by Top Chef contestant Fabio Viviani at the Canopy Memphis Downtown hotel. 164 Union Ave. B, L, D, X, $-$$ EVELYN & OLIVE—Jamaican/Southern fusion cuisine includes such dishes as Kingston stew fish, Rasta Pasta, and jerk rib-eye. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun.-Mon. 630 Madison. 748-5422. L, D, X , $

FAM—Casual Asian restaurant serves sushi rice bowls, noodle bowls, sushi rolls, and spring rolls. Closed Sun. 149 Madison. 701-6666; 521 S. Highland. 249-2636. L, D, X, $

FANCY’S FISH HOUSE—Serving chef-inspired favorites at One Beale, including fresh, daily-caught fish and seafood, a raw bar, and signature dishes from the grill, with fabulous river views from the dining room and patio. 1 Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Ave. #1. 589-3474. L, D, X, $$-$$$$

FEAST & GRAZE—Whipped goat toast, open faced grilled cheese, and other local pantry snacks and charcuterie boards. Closed Sun./Mon. 55 S. Main. 654-5926. L, X, $

FELICIA SUZANNE’S—Southern cuisine with low-country, Creole, and Delta influences, using regional fresh seafood, local beef, and locally grown foods. Entrees include shrimp and grits. Closed Sun. and Mon. A Downtown staple at Brinkley Plaza, 383 S. Main. 5230877. L (Fri. only), D, X, MRA, $$-$$$

FERRARO’S PIZZERIA & PUB—Rigatoni and tortellini are among the pasta entrees here, along with pizzas (whole or by the slice) with a variety of toppings. 111 Jackson. 522-2033. L, D, X, $

FISHBOWL AT THE PYRAMID—Burgers, fish dishes, sandwiches, and more served in a unique “underwater” setting. Bass Pro, 1 Bass Pro Drive, 291-8000. B, L, D, X, $-$$

FLIGHT RESTAURANT & WINE BAR—Serves steaks and seafood, along with such specialties as bison ribeye and Muscovy duck, all matched with appropriate wines. 39 S. Main. 521-8005. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$

FLYING FISH—Serves up fried and grilled versions of shrimp, crab, oysters, fish tacos, and catfish; also chicken and burgers. 105 S. Second. 522-8228. L, D, X, $-$$

GOOD FORTUNE CO.—Authentic handcrafted noodles, ramen, and dumplings. 361 S. Main. 561-306-4711. L, D, X, $-$$

THE GENRE—Burgers, tenders, catfish, and plenty of vegan options made to order at this music-themed restaurant/lounge. 200 Poplar, Suite 105. 410-8169. B, L, D, X, $-$$

THE GRAY CANARY—The sixth restaurant from chefs Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman, offering small plates and entrees cooked on an open flame. Oysters, octopus, and hearty steaks are among the menu options at this eatery in Old Dominick Distillery. Closed Mon. 301 S. Front. 466-6324. D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$

GRECIAN GOURMET TAVERNA—Serves traditional favorites like spanakopita, pastitso, moussaka, and hand-rolled dolmathes, as well as lamb sliders and pita nachos. Closed Mon. 412 S. Main. 249-6626. L, D, X, $

GUS’S WORLD FAMOUS FRIED CHICKEN—Serves chicken with signature spicy batter, along with homemade beans, slaw, and pies. 310 S. Front. 527-4877; 3100 Forest Hill Irene (Germantown). 853-6005; 2965 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 373-9111; 730 S. Mendenhall. 767-2323; 505 Highway 70 W., Mason, TN. 901-294-2028. L, D, X, MRA, $

HAPPY MEXICAN—Serves quesadillas, burritos, chimichangas, vegetable and seafood dishes, and more. 385 S. Second. 529-9991; 6080 Primacy Pkwy. 683-0000; 7935 Winchester. 751-5353. L, D, X, $

HU. ROOF—Rooftop cocktail bar with superb city views serves toasts with a variety of toppings including beef tartare with cured egg, cognac, and capers or riced cauliflower with yellow curry, currants, and almonds. Also salads, fish tacos, and boiled peanut hummus. 79 Madison. 333-1229. D, X, $

HUSTLE & DOUGH BAKERY & CAFE—Flaky, baked breakfast goodness every day with fresh pastries, sandwiches, and more at Arrive Hotel. 477 S. Main St., 701-7577. B, L, X, $

IBIS—Upscale cocktail bar serving sharable small plates, including lobster rolls, crab cakes, and lamb meatballs, alongside select larger entrees. Closed Mon.-Wed. 314 S. Main. 748-5187. D, X, $-$$

INKWELL—Unique craft concoctions, charcuterie plates, flatbreads, and sandwiches at this dope cocktail bar. Closed Mon.-Tue. 631 Madison Ave. 334-9411. D, X, $-$$

ITTA BENA—Southern and Cajun-American cuisine served here, conveniently located above B.B. King’s Blues Club on Beale St.; specialties are duck and waffles and shrimp and grits, along with steaks, chops, seafood, and pasta. 145 Beale St. 578-3031. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$

KING & UNION BAR GROCERY—Classic Southern favorites including catfish plate, pimento cheese, po-boys, chicken & waffles. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner with cocktails served with flair and favorite Memphis beers. Locally made confections available in the grocery. 185 Union Ave. 523-8500. B, L, D, $-$$

KOOKY CANUCK—Offers prime rib, catfish, and burgers, including the 4-lb. “Kookamonga”; also late-night menu. 87 S. Second. 578-9800; 1250 N. Germantown Pkwy. 1-800-2453 L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$

LITTLE BETTIE—New Haven-style pizzas and snacks from the Andrew-Michael team at Wiseacre’s Downtown location. 398 S. B.B. King Blvd. 334-9411. L, D, $-$$

THE LITTLE TEA SHOP—Downtown institution serves up Southern comfort cooking, including meatloaf and such veggies as turnip greens, yams, okra, and tomatoes. Closed Sat.-Sun. 69 Monroe. 525-6000, L, X, $

LOCAL—Entrees with a focus on locally sourced products include lobster mac-and-cheese and rib-eye patty melt; menu differs by location. 95 S. Main. 473-9573; 2126 Madison. 725-1845. L, D, WB, X, $-$$

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LOFLIN YARD—Beer garden and restaurant serves vegetarian fare and smoked-meat dishes, including beef brisket and pork tenderloin, cooked on a custom-made grill. Closed Mon.-Tues. 7 W. Carolina. 249-3046. L (Sat. and Sun.), D, MRA, X, $-$$

LONGSHOT—Chef David Todd has something for everyone with a wide variety of international fusion dishes, and a side of shuffleboard. 477 S. Main. D, $-$$

THE LOOKOUT AT THE PYRAMID—Serves seafood and Southern fare, including cornmeal-fried oysters, sweet tea brined chicken, and elk chops. 1 Bass Pro Dr. 620-4600/291-8200. L, D, X, $-$$$

LUCY’S—Hu. Hotel’s downstairs diner serves up breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Start your day with a Hu. breakfast burrito, or Lucy’s Burger for a late-night bite 3 S. Main. 333-1200. B, L, D, X, $-$$

LUNA RESTAURANT & LOUNGE—Serving a limited menu of breakfast and lunch items. Dinner entrees include citrus glaze salmon and Cajun stuffed chicken. 179 Madison (Hotel Napoleon). 526-0002. B, D (Mon.-Sat.), X, $-$$$

MACIEL’S—Entrees include tortas, fried taco plates, quesadillas, chorizo and pastor soft tacos, salads, and more. Downtown closed Sun. 45 S. Main. 526-0037, X, MRA, $

THE MAJESTIC GRILLE—Features aged steaks, fresh seafood, and such specialties as roasted chicken and grilled pork tenderloin; offers a pre-theater menu and classic cocktails. Well-stocked bar. 145 S. Main. 522-8555. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$

McEWEN’S—Southern/American cuisine with international flavors; specialties include steak and seafood, sweet potato-crusted catfish with macaroni and cheese, and more. Closed Sun., Monroe location. 120 Monroe. 527-7085; 1110 Van Buren (Oxford). 662-234-7003. L, D, SB (Oxford only), X, MRA, $$-$$$

MESQUITE CHOP HOUSE—The focus here is on steaks, including prime fillet, rib-eyes, and prime-aged New York strip; also, some seafood options. 5960 Getwell (Southaven). 662-890-2467; 88 Union. 527-5337; 3165 Forest Hill-Irene (Germantown). 249-5661. D, SB (Germantown), X, $$-$$$

MOLLIE FONTAINE LOUNGE—Specializes in tapas (small plates) featuring global cuisine. Closed Sun.-Tues. 679 Adams Ave. 524-1886. D, X, MRA, $

MOMMA’S ROADHOUSE—This diner and dive at Highway 55 serves up hot and crispy fried chicken wings, among other solid bar food options. Temporarily closed. 855 Kentucky. 207-5111. L, D, MRA, $

NEW WING ORDER The award-winning food truck cooks up its signature hot wings at its first physical location, at Ghost River on Beale. Closed Mon/Tue. 341 Beale. L, D, $-$$

THE NINE THAI & SUSHI—Serving authentic Thai dishes, including curries, as well as a variety of sushi rolls. Closed for lunch Sat. and Sun. 121 Union. 208-8347. L, D, X, $-$$

THE PARAMOUNT—Fried green tomato and crab beignet small plates to grilled lamb loin, cowboy ribeye, and an extensive cocktail list. Closed Sun/Mon. 265 S. Front. 410-8169. D, $-$$$$

PAULETTE’S—Presents fine dining with a Continental flair, including such entrees as filet Paulette with butter cream sauce and crabmeat and spinach crepes; also changing daily specials and great views. River Inn. 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3300. B, L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$

PEARL’S OYSTER HOUSE—Downtown eatery serving seafood, including oysters, crawfish, and stuffed butterfly shrimp, as well as beef, chicken, and pasta dishes. 299 S. Main. 522-9070; 8106 Cordova Center Dr. (Cordova). 425-4797. L, D, SB, X, $-$$$

PENNY’S NITTY GRITTY—Coach Penny Hardaway brings plenty of Southern flavors and lots of customizable grits. 220 S. B.B. King Blvd. 334-5950. B, L, D, $$-$$$

PONTOTOC LOUNGE—Upscale restaurant and jazz bar serves such starters as alligator filet fritters; entrees include Mississippi pot roast with jalapeño cornbread and tagliatelle with braised beef. 314 S. Main. 207-7576. D, X, $-$$

RAW GIRLS—Raw and hot plant-based food alongside cold-pressed juices made from seasonal, locally grown sources. Closed Sun. 150 Peabody Pl., Suite 118. 207-5463. B, L, D, $-$$

REGINA’S—New Orleans-inspired eatery offering po’boys, Cajun nachos topped with crawfish tails, catfish platters, oysters, and more. Closed Mon. 60 N. Main. 730-0384. B, L, D, SB, X, $-$$

RENDEZVOUS, CHARLES VERGOS’—Menu items include barbecued ribs, cheese plates, skillet shrimp, red beans and rice, and Greek salads. Closed Sun.-Mon. 52 S. Second. 523-2746. L (Fri.Sat.), D, X, $-$$

SABOR CARIBE—Serving up “Caribbean flavors” with dishes from Colombia, Venezuela, Puerto Rico, and Cuba. Closed Sunday. 662 Madison. 949-8100. L, D, X, $

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SAGE—Restaurant and lounge features daily lunch specials and tapas with such dishes as braised short ribs, teriyaki pulled pork, and the Sage burger made with Angus beef, avocado mash, fried egg, and flash-fried sage. 94 S. Main. 672-7902. L, D, WB, X, $-$$

SILLY GOOSE LOUNGE—Gourmet, wood-fired pizzas and handcrafted cocktails at this Downtown restaurant and lounge. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 111. 435-6915. L, D, X, $

SOUTH MAIN SUSHI & GRILL—Serving sushi, nigiri, and more. 520 S. Main. 249-2194. L, D, X, $

SOB—Elevated gastropub that serves favorites like general Tso’s cauliflower or duck fried rice. 345 S. Main. 526-0388. L, D, WB, X , $-$$

SOUTH POINT GROCERY—Fresh and delicious sandwiches made to order at Downtown’s new grocery market. 136 Webster Ave. B, L, D, X, $

SUGAR GRITS—Who said breakfast has to be in the morning? The Westmorelands offer grits and other breakfast goodness all day long, in addition to other Southern-style lunch and dinner options. 150 Peabody Pl., Suite 111. 249-5206. B, L, D, X, $-$$

SUNRISE MEMPHIS—Serves breakfast all day, including house-made biscuits, frittatas, kielbasa or boudin plates, and breakfast platters. 670 Jefferson. 552-3144; 5469 Poplar Ave. (East Memphis). 844-6117. B, L, X, MRA, $

SUPPER CLUB ON 2ND—Fine dining and urban bistro styles collide at this snazzy, chic restaurant, featuring gold-encrusted tomahawk steaks, a deep sea lobster dawg, fancy cocktails, and plenty of other elevated goodies. 85 S. 2nd St. 453-6334. D, WB, X, $$-$$$

TALK SHOP—Southern-style cuisine, a breakfast bar, and plenty of other cool dishes and drinks at the Caption by Hyatt. 245 S. Front St. B, L, D, X, $-$$

TERRACE—Creative American and Continental cuisine includes such dishes as filet mignon, beef or lamb sliders, chicken satay, and mushroom pizzetta. Rooftop, River Inn of Harbor Town, 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3366. D, X, MRA, $$

TEXAS DE BRAZIL—Serves beef, pork, lamb, and chicken dishes, and Brazilian sausage; also a salad bar with extensive toppings. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 103. 526-7600. L (Wed.-Fri.), D, WB, X, $$-$$$

TUG’S—Famous for New Orleans gumbo, fabulous burgers, fried thin catfish, and specialty pancakes. Now serving Grisanti Crafted Pizza. 51 Harbor Town Square. 260-3344. B, L, D, WB, X, $$-$$$

THE VAULT—Oysters, shrimp beignets, flatbreads, stuffed cornish hen, and Smash Burger featured on “Late Nite Eats” are among the dishes offered at this Creole/Italian fusion eatery. 124 G.E. Patterson. 591-8000. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$

WAHLBURGERS WILD—Wahlburgers brings its classic menu, but with a few gamey twists at the Bass Pro Pyramid. 1 Bass Pro Drive. B, L, D, X, $-$$

WESTY’S—Extensive menu includes a variety of wild rice dishes, sandwiches, plate lunches, and hot fudge pie. 346 N. Main. 543-3278. L, D, X, $

MIDTOWN (INCLUDES THE MEDICAL CENTER)

ABNER’S FAMOUS CHICKEN—Fried chicken tenders and dipping sauces galore at this Mid-South staple. 1350 Concourse Ave, Suite 137. 425-2597; (East Memphis) 1591 Poplar Ave. 509-3351; (Cordova) 1100 N. Germantown Pkwy. 754-5355. L, D, $-$$

ABYSSINIA RESTAURANT—Ethiopian/Mediterranean menu includes beef, chicken, lamb, fish entrees, and vegetarian dishes; also a lunch buffet. 2600 Poplar. 321-0082. L, D, X, $-$$

ALCHEMY—Southern fusion, locally grown cuisine features small and large plates; among the offerings are pan-seared hanger steak, quail, and lamb chops; also handcrafted cocktails and local craft beers. 940 S. Cooper. 726-4444. D, SB, X, $-$$

ART BAR—Inventive cocktails feature locally foraged ingredients; snacks include house-cured salt & vinegar potato chips and herb-roasted olives. Closed Mon. 1350 Concourse Avenue #280. 507-8030. D, X, $

BABALU TACOS & TAPAS—This eatery dishes up Spanish-style tapas with Southern flair; also taco and enchilada of the day; specials change daily. 2115 Madison. 274-0100; 6450 Poplar, 410-8909. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$

BACK DO / MI YARD—A revamped patio space behind The Beauty Shop features rotisserie meats and fishes via Brazilian-style outdoor grill. Dinner Wed.-Sat., weather permitting. 966 S. Cooper, 272-7111. D, X, $$

BAIN BARBECUE & BAKERY—Brian Bain’s popular Texasstyle barbecue is back, alongside an assortment of baked goods. 993 S. Cooper. 310-4141. B, L, X, $-$$

BAR DKDC—Features an ever-changing menu of international “street food,” from Thai to Mexican, Israeli to Indian, along with specialty cocktails. 964 S. Cooper. 272-0830. D, X , MRA, $

BAR KEOUGH—It’s old-school eats and cocktails at the new CooperYoung neighborhood corner bar by Kevin Keough. 247 Cooper St. D, X , $

BAR-B-Q SHOP—Dishes up barbecued ribs, spaghetti, bologna, other classics. Closed Sun. 1782 Madison. 272-1277. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$

BARI RISTORANTE ENOTECA—Authentic Southeastern Italian cuisine (Puglia) emphasizes lighter entrees. Serves fresh fish and beef dishes and a homemade soup of the day. 524 S. Cooper. 722-2244. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$

BARKSDALE RESTAURANT—Old-school diner serving breakfast and Southern plate lunches. 237 S. Cooper. 722-2193. B, L, D, X, $

BAYOU BAR & GRILL—New Orleans fare at this Overton Square eatery includes jambalaya, gumbo, catfish Acadian, shrimp dishes, red beans and rice, and muffalettas. 2094 Madison. 278-8626. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$

BEAUTY SHOP—Modern American cuisine with international flair served in a former beauty shop. Serves steaks, salads, pasta, and seafood, including pecan-crusted golden sea bass. Perennial “Best Brunch” winner. Closed for dinner Sunday. 966 S. Cooper. 272-7111. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$

BELLY ACRES—At this festive Overton Square eatery, milkshakes, floats, and burgers rule. Burgers are updated with contemporary toppings like grilled leeks, braised tomatoes, and sourdough or brioche buns. 2102 Trimble Pl. 529-7017. L, D, X, $

BOSCOS—Tennessee’s first craft brewery serves a variety of freshly brewed beers as well as wood-fired oven pizzas, pasta, seafood, steaks, and sandwiches. 2120 Madison. 432-2222. L, D, SB (with live jazz), X, MRA, $-$$

BOUNTY ON BROAD—Offering family-style dining, Bounty serves small plates and family-sized platters, with such specialties as chicken-fried quail and braised pork shank. 2519 Broad. 410-8131. L (Sat. and Sun.), D (Mon.-Sat.), SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BROADWAY PIZZA—Serving a variety of pizzas, including the Broadway Special, as well as sandwiches, salads, wings, and soul-food specials. 2581 Broad. 454-7930; 627 S. Mendenhall. 207-1546. L, D, X, $-$$

CAFE 1912—French/American bistro owned by culinary pioneer Glenn Hays serving such seafood entrees as seared sea scallops with charred cauliflower purée and chorizo cumin sauce; also crepes, salads, and onion soup gratinée. 243 S. Cooper. 722-2700. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$

CAFE ECLECTIC—Omelets and chicken and waffles are among menu items, along with quesadillas, sandwiches, wraps, and burgers. Menu varies by location. 603 N. McLean. 725-1718; 111 Harbor Town Square. 590-4645. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $

CAFE OLÉ—This eatery specializes in authentic Mexican cuisine; one specialty is the build-your-own quesadilla. 959 S. Cooper. 343-0103. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$

CAFE PALLADIO—Serves gourmet salads, soups, sandwiches, and desserts in a tea room inside the antiques shop. Closed Sun. 2169 Central. 278-0129. L, X, $

CAFE SOCIETY—With Belgian and classic French influences, serves Wagyu beef, chicken, and seafood dishes, including bacon-wrapped shrimp, along with daily specials and vegetarian entrees. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 212 N. Evergreen. 722-2177. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$

CAMEO—Three longtime Memphis bartenders join forces for creative cocktails, cheese boards, snacks, and Sunday brunch. 1835 Union Ave., Suite 3. 305-6511. D, SB, $-$$

CELTIC CROSSING—Specializes in Irish and American pub fare. Entrees include shepherd’s pie, shrimp and sausage coddle, and fish and chips. 903 S. Cooper. 274-5151. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$

CENTRAL BBQ—Serves ribs, smoked hot wings, pulled pork sandwiches, chicken, turkey, nachos, and portobello sandwiches. Offers both pork and beef barbecue. 2249 Central Ave. 272-9377; 4375 Summer Ave. 767-4672; 147 E. Butler. 672-7760 ; 6201 Poplar. 4177962. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$

COMPLICATED PILGRIM—Quick serve coffee shop, bar, and restaurant all in one at The Memphian hotel. 21 S. Cooper St. 601-9095820. B, L, D, $-$$

THE COVE—Nautical-themed restaurant and bar serving oysters, pizzas, and more. The Stoner Pie, with tamales and fritos, is a popular dish. 2559 Broad. 730-0719. L, D, $

THE CRAZY NOODLE—Korean noodle dishes range from bibam beef noodle with cabbage, carrots, and other vegetables, to curry chicken noodle; also rice cakes served in a flavorful sauce. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 2015 Madison. 272-0928. L, D, X, $

EAT AT BLACK LODGE—High-end breakfasts, like waffle grilled cheese sandwiches, nacho and tater-tot “tot-chos,” and other

entrees like sweet spicy thai pork at the longtime video store. Closed Mon./Tue. 405 N. Cleveland. 672-7905. L, D, X, $-$$

ECCO—Mediterranean-inspired specialties range from rib-eye steak to seared scallops to housemade pastas and a grilled vegetable plate; also a Saturday brunch. Closed Sun.-Mon. 1585 Overton Park. 410-8200. B, L, D, X, $-$$

FABIOLA’S KITCHEN—Longtime caterer Fabiola Francis serves up burgers, tacos, fish, and much more. 1353 Jackson Ave. B, L, $

FARM BURGER—Serves grass-fed, freshly ground, locally sourced burgers; also available with chicken, pork, or veggie quinoa patties, with such toppings as aged white cheddar, kale coleslaw, and roasted beets. 1350 Concourse Avenue, Suite 175. 800-1851. L, D, X, $

THE FARMER AT RAILGARTEN—Mac Edwards comes out of retirement with classics including pan-seared catfish, gulf shrimp and grits, or a Gibson donut bread pudding. Closed Mon./Tue. 2166 Central. 313-0087. D, X, $-$$

FINO’S ITALIAN DELI & CATERING—The newly revived Fino’s offers the old favorites such as the Acquisto as well as a new breakfast menu. 1853 Madison. 272-FINO. B, L, D, X, $

FLAME RAMEN—Traditional Japanese ramen restaurant serving up bowls of noodles in Midtown. 1838 Union Ave. 779-8666. D, $-$$

FLIP SIDE—Pinball meets pub in the Crosstown neighborhood, with plenty of games alongside a Caribbean- and Latininspired menu. Closed Mon. 1349 Autumn Ave. L, D, X, $-$$

FRIDA’S—Mexican cuisine and Tex-Mex standards, including chimichangas, enchiladas, and fajitas; seafood includes shrimp and tilapia. 1718 Madison. 244-6196. L, D, X, $-$$

GLOBAL CAFÉ—This international food hall hosts three immigrant/ refugee food entrepreneurs serving Venezuelan, Sudanese, and Syrian cuisines. Samosas, shawarma, and kabobs are among the menu items. Closed Mon. 1350 Concourse Avenue, Suite 157. L, D, X, MRA, $ GOLDEN INDIA—Northern Indian specialties include tandoori chicken as well as lamb, beef, shrimp, and vegetarian dishes. 2097 Madison. 728-5111. L, D, X, $-$$

GROWLERS—Sports bar and eatery serves standard bar fare in addition to pasta, tacos, chicken and waffles, and light options. 1911 Poplar. 244-7904. L, D, X, $-$$

HATTIE B’S—Fried chicken spot features “hot chicken” with a variety of heat levels; from no heat to “shut the cluck up” sauce. Sides include greens, pimento mac-and-cheese, and black-eyed pea salad. 596 S. Cooper. 424-5900. L, D, X, $

HUEY’S—This family-friendly restaurant offers 13 different burgers, a variety of sandwiches, and delicious soups and salads. 1927 Madison. 726-4372; 1771 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 7543885; 77 S. Second (Downtown). 527-2700; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-4455; 7090 Malco Blvd. (Southaven). 662-349-7097; 7825 Winchester. 624-8911; 4872 Poplar. 682-7729; 7677 Farmington Blvd. (Germantown). 318-3030; 8570 Highway 51 N. (Millington). 873-5025. L, D, X, MRA, $

IMAGINE VEGAN CAFE—Dishes at this fully vegan restaurant range from salads and sandwiches to full dinners, including eggplant parmesan and “beef” tips and rice; breakfast all day Sat. and Sun. 2158 Young. 654-3455. L, D, WB, X, $

INDIA PALACE—Tandoori chicken, lamb shish kabobs, and chicken tikka masala are among the entrees; also, vegetarian options and a daily all-you-can-eat lunch buffet. 1720 Poplar. 278-1199. L, D, X, $-$$

INSPIRE COMMUNITY CAFE—Serving breakfast all day, in addition to quesadillas, rice bowls, and more for lunch and dinner. 510 Tillman, Suite 110. 509-8640. B, L, D, X, $

KNIFEBIRD—Neighborhood wine bar boasts plenty of flights, cocktails, and mocktails alongside bruschetta and charcuterie boards. Closed Sun. 2155 Central Ave. 748-5425. D, $-$$$

LAFAYETTE’S MUSIC ROOM—Serves such Southern cuisine as po’boys, shrimp and grits, and wood-fired pizzas. 2119 Madison. 2075097. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$

LBOE—Gourmet burger joint serves locally sourced ground beef burgers, with options like the Mac-N-Cheese Burger and Caprese. Black bean and turkey patties available. 2021 Madison. 725-0770. L, D, X, $

THE LIQUOR STORE—Renovated liquor store turned diner serves all-day breakfast, sandwiches, and entrees such as Salisbury steak and smothered pork chops. Closed for dinner Sun.-Mon. 2655 Broad. 405-5477. B, L, D, X, $-$$

LITTLE ITALY—Serving New York-style pizza as well as subs and pasta dishes. 1495 Union. 725-0280; L, D, X, $-$$

LOAF—Former food truck owner Kale Carm’s take on modern Memphis and deep South cuisine. Closed Sun.-Tue. 1934 Poplar (Memphis Brooks Museum of Art). 300-0103. L, D, X, $

MAXIMO’S ON BROAD—Serving a tapas menu that features creative fusion cuisine; entrees include veggie paella and fish of the day. Closed Mon. 2617 Broad Ave. 452-1111. D, SB, X, $-$$

MEMPHIS PIZZA CAFE—Homemade pizzas are specialties; also serves sandwiches, calzones, and salads. 2087 Madison. 726-5343; 5061 Park Ave. 684-1306; 7604 W. Farmington (Germantown). 7532218; 797 W. Poplar (Collierville). 861-7800; 5627 Getwell (Southaven). 662-536-1364. L, D, X, $-$$

MEMPHIS WHISTLE—Cocktails, cocktails, and even more delicious cocktails alongside burgers, sandwiches, and other tasty snacks. 2299 Young Ave. Closed Mon.-Tue. 236-7136. D, X, $-$$

MIDPOINTE FROM EDGE ALLEY—Edge Alley’s sister cafe at the Ballet Memphis headquarters focuses on freshness for its breakfast, lunch, and happy hour tapas. Closed Sun.-Mon. 2144 Madison Ave. 425-2605. B, L, X, $

MOLLY’S LA CASITA—Homemade tamales, fish tacos, a vegetarian combo, and bacon-wrapped shrimp are a few of the specialties. 2006 Madison. 726-1873. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$

PANTÀ—Small, Catalan-inspired plates by Kelly English in the former Restaurant Iris space. 2146 Monroe Ave. Closed Mon.-Wed. 590-2828. L, D, X, $-$$.

PARISH GROCERY—Shrimp? Roast beef? Oysters? Whatever type of po’boy you want, the New Orleans-themed eatery has got it. Closed Monday. 916 S. Cooper St. 207-4347. L, D, X, $-$$

PAYNE’S BAR-B-QUE—Opened in 1972, this family-owned barbecue joint serves ribs, smoked sausage, and chopped pork sandwiches with a standout mustard slaw and homemade sauce. About as down-to-earth as it gets. 1762 Lamar. 272-1523. L, D, $-$$

PHO BINH—Vietnamese, vegetarian, and Cantonese specialties include lemon tofu and spring rolls. Closed Sunday. 1615 Madison. 276-0006.

L, D, $

RED FISH ASIAN BISTRO—In the former Nineteenth Century Club building, serves sushi, teriyaki, and hibachi. Specialties include yuzu filet mignon and Chilean sea bass. 1433 Union. 454-3926; 9915 Highway 64 (Lakeland). 729-7581; 6518 Goodman (Olive Branch). 662-874-5254. L, D, X, $-$$$

ROBATA RAMEN & YAKITORI BAR—Serves ramen noodle bowls and Yakitori skewers as well as rice and noodle dishes. 2116 Madison. 410-8290. L, D, X, $

SABROSURA—Serves Mexican and Cuban fare, including arroz tapada de pollo and steak Mexican. Closed Sun. 782 Washington. 421-8180. L, D, X, $-$$

SALT|SOY—Nick Scott and Brac McCarley team up to provide Southern and Asian-inspired dishes at this Japanese Izakaya. Closed Sunday, Monday. 2583 Broad Ave. 726-4444. D, $$

SALTWATER CRAB—Offers an array of seafood dishes including boils with blue crab, crab legs, lobster tails, and more, and specialty sushi like the Dynamite or Royal King rolls, in addition to signature sangrias and cocktails. 2059 Madison Ave. 922-5202. L, D, X, $$

THE SECOND LINE—Kelly English brings “relaxed Creole cuisine” to his newest eatery; serves a variety of po’boys and such specialties as barbecue shrimp, andouille shrimp, and pimento cheese fries. 2144 Monroe. 590-2829. L, D, WB, X, $-$$

SEKISUI—Japanese fusion cuisine, fresh sushi bar, grilled meats and seafood, California rolls, and vegetarian entrees. Poplar/ Perkins location’s emphasis is on Pacific Rim cuisine. Menu and hours vary at each location. 25 Belvedere. 725-0005; 1884 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 309-8800; 4724 Poplar. 767-7770; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-0622; 2990 Kirby-Whitten (Bartlett). 377-2727; 6696 Poplar. 747-0001. L, D, X, $-$$$

SOUL FISH CAFE—Serving Southern-style soul food, tacos, and po’boys, including catfish, crawfish, oyster, shrimp, chicken, and smoked pork tenderloin. 862 S. Cooper. 725-0722; 3160 Village Shops Dr. (Germantown). 755-6988; 4720 Poplar. 590-0323. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$

STICKEM—Brick and mortar location for the popular food truck, which offers grilled meat on a stick. 1788 Madison. Closed Sunday. 474-7214. L, D, X, $

TAMBOLI’S PASTA & PIZZA—Pasta-maker Miles Tamboli whips up Italian soul food with seasonal menus featuring dishes like crispy fried chicken or creamy bucatini with pecorino cheese. Serves dinner Tues.-Sat. 1761 Madison. 410-8866. D, X, $-$$

TAKASHI BISTRO—Fusion restaurant with an open kitchen that lets customers watch chefs prepare a variety of Japanese and Thai cuisine. 1680 Union Ave., Suite 109. 800-2936. L, D, $-$$.

TONICA—Paella and other Spanish-inspired dishes with an Italian touch, alongside an extensive list of gin and tonics. 1545 Overton Park. Closed Mon.-Wed. D, X, $-$$

TSUNAMI—Features Pacific Rim cuisine (Asia, Australia, South Pacific, etc.); also a changing “small plate” menu. Chef Ben Smith is a Cooper-Young pioneer. Specialties include Asian nachos and roasted sea bass. Closed Sunday. 928 S. Cooper. 274-2556. D, X,, MRA, $$-$$$

TUYEN’S ASIAN BISTRO—A variety of Asian dishes from the minds and chefs behind Saigon Le. Closed Sun. 288 N. Cleveland. L, D, X, $-$$

ZINNIE’S—Dive bar classic reopens with a makeover and signature Zinnaloni sandwich. 1688 Madison. 726-5004. L, D, X, $

SOUTH MEMPHIS (INCLUDES PARKWAY VILLAGE, FOX MEADOWS, SOUTH MEMPHIS, WINCHESTER, AND WHITEHAVEN)

BALA’S BISTRO—Authentic West African cuisine available to order or by the pound, alongside traditional American dishes and an extensive vegan menu. 4571 Elvis Presley Blvd. 509-3024. L, D, $-$$

COLETTA’S—Longtime eatery serves such specialties as homemade ravioli, lasagna, and pizza with barbecue or traditional toppings. 1063 S. Parkway E. 948-7652; 2850 Appling Rd. (Bartlett). 383-1122. L, D, X, $-$$

CURRY BOWL—Specializes in Southern Indian cuisine, serving Tandoori chicken, biryani, tikka masala, and more. Weekend buffet. 4141 Hacks Cross Rd. 207-6051. L, D, $

DELTA’S KITCHEN—The premier restaurant at The Guest House at Graceland serves Elvis-inspired dishes — like Nutella and Peanut Butter Crepes for breakfast — and upscale Southern cuisine — including lamb chops and shrimp and grits — for dinner. 3600 Elvis Presley Blvd. 443-3000. B, D, X, $-$$$

DWJ KOREAN BARBECUE—This authentic Korean eatery serves kimbap, barbecued beef short ribs, rice and noodles dishes, and hot pots and stews. 3750 Hacks Cross Rd., Suite 101. 746-8057; 2156 Young. 207-6204. L, D, $-$$

FABULOUS FLAVORS & FRIENDS ”The Candy Lady” Precious Thompson Jones comes up with a little bit of everything: omelettes, quesadillas, t-bones and waffles, and plenty of soul food. 2063 E. Brooks Rd. 314-0735. L, D, $

THE FOUR WAY—Legendary soul-food establishment dishing up such entrees as fried and baked catfish, chicken, and turkey and dressing, along with a host of vegetables and desserts. Around the corner from the legendary Stax Studio. Closed Mon. 998 Mississippi Blvd. 507-1519. L, D, $

HERNANDO’S HIDEAWAY–No one cares how late it gets; not at Hernando’s Hideaway. Live music, killer happy hour, and plenty of bar fare at this South Memphis hang. 3210 Old Hernando Rd. 917-982-1829. L, D, $ INTERSTATE BAR-B-Q—Specialties include chopped pork-shoulder sandwiches, ribs, hot wings, spaghetti, chicken, and turkey. 2265 S. Third. 775-2304; 150 W. Stateline Rd. (Southaven). 662-393-5699. L, D, X, $-$$

JIM & SAMELLA’S—It’s a revolving menu of soul food delight from Chef Talbert Fleming, with anything from Southern ribs to fried tamales. 841 Bullington Ave. 265-8761. L, D, X, $ LEONARD’S—Serves wet and dry ribs, barbecue sandwiches, spaghetti, catfish, homemade onion rings, and lemon icebox pie; also a lunch buffet. 5465 Fox Plaza. 360-1963. L, X, $-$$

MARLOWE’S—In addition to its signature barbecue and ribs, Marlowe’s serves Southern-style steaks, chops, lasagna, and more. 4381 Elvis Presley Blvd. 332-4159. D, X, MRA, $-$$

UNCLE LOU’S FRIED CHICKEN—Featured on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives for good reason: fried chicken (mild, hot, or home-style); jumbo burgers four patties high; strawberry shortcake, and assorted fruit pies. 3633 Millbranch. 332-2367. L, D, X, MRA, $ SUMMER/BERCLAIR/ RALEIGH/BARTLETT

BISCUITS & JAMS—Biscuits, waffles, French toast, and plenty of sharables at this Bartlett breakfast spot. Closed Mon./Tue. 5806 Stage Rd. 672-7905. B, L, X, $

BRYANT’S BREAKFAST—Slingin’ famous biscuits, plate lunches, chicken fried steak, and other breakfast classics since 1968. 3965 Summer Ave. 324-7494. B, L, $

CEVICHERIA AND GRILL CHILEMON—Ceviche, of course, but also plenty of other postres, aperitivos, and mixed grilled meat and seafood feasts. Closed Sun. 4509 Summer Ave. 672-7905. L, D, $

DIM SUM KING—All the best from a selection of authentic Chinese dishes: roasted duck, sizzling hot plate, Cantonese BBQ, and plenty more. 5266 Summer Ave. #65. 766-0831. L, D, X, $-$$

ELWOOD’S SHACK—Casual comfort food includes tacos, pizza, and sandwiches. Specialties include meats smoked in-house (chicken, turkey, brisket, pork), barbecue pizza, and steelhead trout tacos. 4523 Summer. 761-9898. B, L, D, X, $

EXLINES’ BEST PIZZA—Serves pizza, Italian dinners, sandwiches, and salads. 6250 Stage Rd. 382-3433; 2935 Austin Peay. 388-4711; 2801 Kirby Parkway. 754-0202; 7730 Wolf River Blvd. (Germantown). 753-4545; 531 W. Stateline Rd. 662-342-4544.

L, D, X , MRA, $

LA TAQUERIA GUADALUPANA—Fajitas and quesadillas are just a few of the authentic Mexican entrees offered here. A bonafide Memphis institution. 4818 Summer. 685-6857; 5848 Winchester. 365-4992. L, D, X, $

LOTUS—Authentic Vietnamese-Asian fare, including lemon-grass chicken and shrimp, egg rolls, Pho soup, and spicy Vietnamese vermicelli. 4970 Summer. 682-1151. D, X, $

MORTIMER’S—Contemporary American entrees include trout almondine, chicken dishes, and hand-cut steaks; also sandwiches, salads, and daily/nightly specials. A Memphis landmark since the Knickerbocker closed. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 590 N. Perkins. 7619321. L, D, X, $-$$

NAGASAKI INN—Chicken, steak, and lobster are among the main courses; meal is cooked at your table. 3951 Summer. 454-0320. D, X, $$

NAM KING—General Tso’s chicken, hot and sour soup, and homemade chicken wings are back at the longtime Raleigh Chinese eatery. 3624 Austin Peay Highway, #3. 373-4411. L, D, $-$$

PANDA GARDEN—Sesame chicken and broccoli beef are among the Mandarin and Cantonese entrees; also seafood specials and fried rice. Closed for lunch Saturday. 3735 Summer. 323-4819. L, D, X, $-$$

QUEEN OF SHEBA—Featuring Middle Eastern favorites and Yemeni dishes such as lamb haneeth and saltah. 4792 Summer. 207-4174. L, D, $

SIDE PORCH STEAK HOUSE—In addition to steak, the menu includes chicken, pork chops, and fish entrees; homemade rolls are a specialty. Closed Sun./Mon. 5689 Stage Rd. 377-2484. D, X, $-$$

TORTILLERIA LA UNICA—Individual helping of Mexican street food, including hefty tamales, burritos, tortas, and sopes. 5015 Summer Ave. 685-0097. B, L, D, X, $

UNIVERSITY NEIGHBORHOOD DISTRICT (INCLUDES CHICKASAW GARDENS AND HIGHLAND STRIP)

A-TAN—Serves Chinese and Japanese hibachi cuisine, complete with sushi bar. A specialty is Four Treasures with garlic sauce. 3445 Poplar, Suite 17, University Center. 452-4477. L, D, X, $-$$$

THE BLUFF—New Orleans-inspired menu includes alligator bites, nachos topped with crawfish and andouille, gumbo, po’boys, and fried seafood platters. 535 S. Highland. 454-7771. L, D, X, $-$$

BROTHER JUNIPER’S—This little cottage is a breakfast mecca, offering specialty omelets, including the open-faced San Diegan omelet; also daily specials, and homemade breads and pastries. Closed Mon. 3519 Walker. 324-0144. B, X, $

CELEBRITY’S SOUL FOOD—Classic soul food dishes coupled with a Hollywood-esque VIP experience. 431 S. Highland St., Ste 105. L, D, X, $$

CHAR RESTAURANT—Specializing in modern Southern cuisine, this eatery offers homestyle sides, charbroiled steaks, and fresh seafood. 431 S. Highland, Suite 120. 249-3533. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$

DERAE RESTAURANT Ethiopian and Mediterranean fare includes fuul, or fava beans in spices and yogurt, goat meat and rice, and garlic chicken over basmati rice with cilantro chutney; also salmon and tilapia. Closed Monday. 923 S. Highland. 552-3992. B, L, D, $-$$

EL PORTON—Fajitas, quesadillas, and steak ranchero are just a few of the menu items. 2095 Merchants Row (Germantown). 754-4268; 8361 Highway 64. 380-7877; 3448 Poplar (Poplar Plaza). 452-7330; 1805 N. Germantown Parkway (Cordova). 624-9358; 1016 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-5770. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$

MEDALLION—Offers steaks, seafood, chicken, and pasta entrees. Closed for dinner Sunday. 3700 Central, Holiday Inn (Kemmons Wilson School of Hospitality). 678-1030. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$

OPEN FLAME—This authentic Persian and Mediterranean eatery specializes in shish kebabs as well as kosher and halal fare. 3445 Poplar. 207-4995. L, D, X, $

PLANT BASED HEAT All of your favorite Southern-style recipes, but deliciously transformed into a vegan format. Specialties include the spicy fye junt burger, or the chopped ‘n’ smoked bbq jackfruit sandwich. Closed Sun. 669 S. Highland St. L, D, $

SAM’S DELI—Everything from sandwiches to bibimbap bowls at this local favorite. Closed Mon./Tue. 643 S. Highland St. 454-5582. L, D, $

EAST MEMPHIS (INCLUDES POPLAR/I-240)

ACRE—Features seasonal modern American cuisine in an avantegarde setting using locally sourced products; also small plates and enclosed garden patio. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 690 S. Perkins. 818-2273. L, D, X, $$-$$$

AGAVOS COCINA & TEQUILA—Camaron de Tequila, tamales, kabobs, and burgers made with a blend of beef and chorizo are among the offerings at this tequila-centric restaurant and bar. 2924 Walnut Grove. 433-9345. L, D, X, $-$$

AMERIGO—Traditional and contemporary Italian cuisine includes pasta, wood-fired pizza, steaks, and cedarwood-roasted fish. 1239 Ridgeway, Park Place Mall. 761-4000. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$

ANDALUSIA— Authentic Moroccan cuisine, including tagines, brochettes, and briouates. 5101 Sanderlin Ave., Suite 103. 236-7784.

L, D, $-$$

ANDREW MICHAEL ITALIAN KITCHEN—Traditional Italian cuisine with a menu from two of the city’s top chefs that changes seasonally with such entrees as Maw Maw’s ravioli. Closed Sun.-Mon. 712 W. Brookhaven Circle. 347-3569. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$

ANOTHER BROKEN EGG CAFE—Offering several varieties of eggs Benedict, waffles, omelets, pancakes, beignets, and other breakfast fare; also burgers, sandwiches, and salads. 6063 Park Ave. 729-7020; 65 S. Highland. 623-7122. B, L, WB, X, $

ANTIGUA MEXICAN BAR & GRILL—Tortas, tacos, and other authentic Mexican cuisine alongside freshly-made salsa, guacamole, and white queso dip. 717 N. White Station Rd. 761-1374. L, D, $-$$

BANGKOK ALLEY—Thai fusion cuisine includes noodle and curry dishes, chef-specialty sushi rolls, coconut soup, and duck and seafood entrees. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. at Brookhaven location; call for hours. 715 W. Brookhaven Circle. 590-2585; 2150 W. Poplar at Houston Levee (Collierville). 854-8748. L, D, X, $-$$

BENIHANA—This Japanese steakhouse serves beef, chicken, and seafood grilled at the table; some menu items change monthly; sushi bar also featured. 912 Ridge Lake Blvd. 767-8980. L, D, X, $$-$$$

BIG BAD BREAKFAST—Fresh biscuits, house-made cured meats, jams, jellies, and more for the most important meal of the day. 6450 Poplar. 881-3346. B, L, X, $-$$

BROOKLYN BRIDGE ITALIAN RESTAURANT—Specializing in such homemade entrees as spinach lasagna and lobster ravioli; a seafood specialty is horseradish-crusted salmon. Closed Sun. 1779 Kirby Pkwy. 755-7413. D, X, $-$$$

BRYANT’S BREAKFAST—Three-egg omelets, pancakes, and The Sampler Platter are among the popular entrees here. Possibly the best biscuits in town. Closed Mon. and Tues. 3965 Summer. 324-7494. B, L, X, $

BUCKLEY’S FINE FILET GRILL—Specializes in steaks, seafood, and pasta. (Lunchbox serves entree salads, burgers, and more.) 5355 Poplar. 683-4538; 919 S. Yates (Buckley’s Lunchbox), 682-0570. L (Yates only, M-F), D, X, $-$$

CAPITAL GRILLE—Known for its dry-aged, hand-carved steaks; among the specialties are bone-in sirloin, and porcini-rubbed Delmonico; also seafood entrees and seasonal lunch plates. Closed for lunch Sat.Sun. Crescent Center, 6065 Poplar. 683-9291. L, D, X, $$$-$$$$

CASABLANCA—Lamb shawarma is one of the fresh, homemade specialties served at this Mediterranean/Moroccan restaurant; fish entrees and vegetarian options also available. 5030 Poplar. 725-8557 ; 7609 Poplar Pike (Germantown). 425-5908; 1707 Madison. 421-6949.

L, D, X, $-$$

CIAO BELLA—Among the Italian and Greek specialties are lasagna, seafood pasta, gourmet pizzas, and vegetarian options. Closed Mon. 5101 Sanderlin Ave. 205-2500. D, X, MRA, $-$$$

CITY SILO TABLE + PANTRY—With a focus on clean eating, this establishment offers fresh juices, as well as comfort foods re-imagined with wholesome ingredients. 5101 Sanderlin. 729-7687. Germantown: 7605 W. Farmington Blvd., Suite 2. 236-7223. B, L, D, X, $

COASTAL FISH COMPANY—Upscale offerings of international fish varieties utilizing styles ranging from Carribbean, East Coast, West Coast, Chinese, to Filipino, and more. 415 Great View Dr. E., Suite 101. 266-9000. D, X, $$-$$$

CORKY’S—Popular barbecue emporium offers both wet and dry ribs, plus a full menu of other barbecue entrees. Wed. lunch buffets, Cordova and Collierville. 5259 Poplar. 685-9744; 1740 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 737-1911; 743 W. Poplar (Collierville). 405-4999; 6434 Goodman Rd., Olive Branch. 662-893-3663. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$

DAN MCGUINNESS PUB—Serves fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, burgers, and other Irish and American fare; also lunch and dinner

specials. 4694 Spottswood. 761-3711; 3964 Goodman Rd. 662-8907611. L, D, X, $

DORY—Chef David Krog whips up Southern specialties with classic French techniques and locally sourced ingredients. Current specialties include pork tenderloin, beef bourguignon, or cocoa-dusted chocolate truffles, with new weekly additions. 716 W. Brookhaven Circle. 310-4290. L, D, X, $$-$$$

ERLING JENSEN—For decades, has presented “globally inspired” cuisine to die for. Specialties are rack of lamb, big game entrees, and fresh fish dishes. 1044 S. Yates. 763-3700. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$

ERLING JENSEN SMALL BITES—Enjoy Erling Jensen’s specialty dishes in a sharable, small plate format alongside TopGolf Swing suites. 5069 Sanderlin Ave. 587-9464. L, D, X, $-$$$

FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE—Serves wet-aged and dry-aged steaks, prime beef, chops, and seafood, including salmon, Australian lobster tails, and a catch of the day. 6245 Poplar. 761-6200. D, X, MRA, $$$-$$$$

FOLK’S FOLLY ORIGINAL PRIME STEAK HOUSE Specializes in prime steaks, as well as lobster, grilled Scottish salmon, Alaskan king crab legs, rack of lamb, and weekly specials. 551 S. Mendenhall. 762-8200. D, X, MRA, $$$-$$$$

FORMOSA—Offers Mandarin cuisine, including broccoli beef, hot-andsour soup, and spring rolls. Closed Mon. 6685 Quince. 753-9898. L, D, X, $-$$

FOX RIDGE PIZZA & GRILL—Pizzas, calzones, sub sandwiches, burgers, and meat-and-two plate lunches are among the dishes served at this eatery, which opened in 1979. 711 W. Brookhaven Circle. 758-6500. L, D, X, $

FRATELLI’S—Serves hot and cold sandwiches, salads, soups, and desserts, all with an Italian/Mediterranean flair. Closed Sun. 750 Cherry Rd., Memphis Botanic Garden. 766-9900. L, X, $

FRANK GRISANTI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT—Northern Italian favorites include pasta with jumbo shrimp and mushrooms; also seafood, filet mignon, and daily lunch specials. Closed for lunch Sun. Embassy Suites Hotel, 1022 S. Shady Grove. 761-9462. L, D, X, $-$$$

HALF SHELL—Specializes in seafood, such as king crab legs; also serves steaks, chicken, pastas, salads, sandwiches, a ”voodoo menu”; oyster bar at Winchester location. 688 S. Mendenhall. 682-3966; 7825 Winchester. 737-6755. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$

HEN HOUSE—Hybrid wine/cocktail bar and tasting room with plenty of cosmopolitan eats. Closed Sun. 679 S. Mendenhall. 499-5436. D, $-$$$

HIGH POINT PIZZA—Serves a variety of pizzas, subs, salads, and sides. Closed Mon. A neighborhood fixture. 477 High Point Terrace. 452-3339. L, D, X, $-$$

HOG & HOMINY—The casual sister to Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen serves brick-oven-baked pizzas, including the Red-Eye with pork belly, and small plates with everything from meatballs to beef and cheddar hot dogs; and local veggies. And with a few surprises this time around. Closed for lunch Mon. 707 W. Brookhaven Cir. 207-7396. L, D, SB, X, MRA. $-$$$

HOUSTON’S—Serves steaks, seafood, pork chops, chicken dishes, sandwiches, salads, and Chicago-style spinach dip. Famous for first-class service. 5000 Poplar. 683-0915. L, D, X $-$$$

LA BAGUETTE—An almond croissant and chicken salad are among specialties at this French-style bistro. Closed for dinner Sun. 3088 Poplar. 458-0900. B, L, D (closes at 7), X, MRA, $ LAS DELICIAS—Popular for its guacamole, house-made tortilla chips, and margaritas, this restaurant draws diners with its chicken enchiladas, meat-stuffed flautas, and Cuban torta with spicy pork. Closed Sun. 4002 Park Ave. 458-9264; 5689 Quince. 800-2873. L, D, X, $

LIBRO AT LAURELWOOD—Bookstore eatery features a variety of sandwiches, salads, and homemade pasta dishes, with Italian-inspired options such as carbonara and potato gnocchi. Closed for dinner Sun. 387 Perkins Ext. (Novel). 800-2656. B, L, D, SB, X, $-$$

LOST PIZZA—Offering pizzas (with dough made from scratch), pasta, salads, sandwiches, tamales, and more. 2855 Poplar. 572-1803; 5960 Getwell (Southaven). 662-892-8684. L, D, X, $-$$

MAGNOLIA & MAY—The family behind Grove Grill cooks up Southern-inspired casual dining at this country brasserie, with popular menu items like peach gazpacho, low country shrimp n’ grits, and plenty of weekend brunch options. Closed Mon. 718 Mt. Moriah Rd. 676-8100. L, D, SB, MRA. $$-$$$.

MAHOGANY MEMPHIS—Upscale Southern restaurant offers such dishes as coffee-rubbed lamb chops and baked Cajun Cornish hen. Closed for dinner Sun. and all day Mon.-Tues. 3092 Poplar, Suite 11. 623-7977.

L, D, SB, X, $-$$$

MARCIANO MEDITERRANEAN AND ITALIAN CUISINE—Veal Saltimbocca with angel-hair pasta and white wine sauce is among the entrees; also steaks, seafood, and gourmet pizza. 780 E. Brookhaven Cir. 682-1660. D, X, $-$$

MAYURI INDIAN CUISINE—Serves tandoori chicken, masala dosa, tikka masala, as well as lamb and shrimp entrees; also a daily lunch buffet, and dinner buffet on Fri.-Sat. 6524 Quince Rd. 753-8755. L, D, X, $-$$

MELLOW MUSHROOM—Large menu includes assortment of pizzas, salads, calzones, hoagies, vegetarian options, and 50 beers on tap. 5138 Park Ave. 562-1211; 9155 Poplar, Shops of Forest Hill (Germantown). 907-0243. L, D, X, $-$$

MOSA ASIAN BISTRO—Specialties include sesame chicken, Thai calamari, rainbow panang curry with grouper fish, and other Pan Asian/ fusion entrees. Closed Mon. 850 S. White Station Rd. 683-8889. L, D, X, MRA, $

NAM KING—Offers luncheon and dinner buffets, dim sum, and such specialties as fried dumplings, pepper steak, and orange chicken. 4594 Yale. 373-4411. L, D, X, $

NAPA CAFE—Among the specialties are miso-marinated salmon over black rice with garlic spinach and shiitake mushrooms. Closed Sun. 5101 Sanderlin, Suite 122. 683-0441. L, D, X, MRA, $$-$$$

NEW HUNAN—Chinese eatery with more than 80 entrees; also lunch/ dinner buffets. 5052 Park. 766-1622. L, D, X, $

ONE & ONLY BBQ—On the menu are pork barbecue sandwiches, platters, wet and dry ribs, smoked chicken and turkey platters, a smoked meat salad, barbecue quesadillas, Brunswick Stew, and Millie’s homemade desserts. 1779 Kirby Pkwy. 751-3615; 567 Perkins Extd. 249-4227. L, D, X, $

ONO POKÉ—This eatery specializes in poké — a Hawaiian dish of fresh fish salad served over rice. Menu includes a variety of poké bowls, like the Kimchi Tuna bowl, or customers can build their own by choosing a base, protein, veggies, and toppings. 3145 Poplar. 618-2955. L, D, X , $

OWEN BRENNAN’S—New Orleans-style menu of beef, chicken, pasta, and seafood; jambalaya, shrimp and grits, and crawfish etouffee are specialties. Closed for dinner Sun. The Regalia, 6150 Poplar. 761-0990. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$

PARK + CHERRY—The Dixon offers casual dining within the museum. Seasonal menu features sandwiches, like rustic chicken salad on croissant, as well as salads, snacks, and sweets. Closed for breakfast Sun. and all day Mon. 4339 Park (Dixon Gallery and Gardens). 761-5250. L, X, $

PATRICK’S—Serves barbecue nachos, burgers, and entrees such as fish and chips; also plate lunches and daily specials. 4972 Park. 682-2852. L, D, X, MRA, $

PETE & SAM’S—Serving Memphis for 60-plus years; offers steaks, seafood, and traditional Italian dishes, including homemade ravioli, lasagna, and chicken marsala. 3886 Park. 458-0694. D, X, $-$$$

PF CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO—Specialties are orange peel shrimp, Mongolian beef, and chicken in lettuce wraps; also vegetarian dishes, including spicy eggplant. 1181 Ridgeway Rd., Park Place Centre. 818-3889. L, D, X, $-$$

PHO SAIGON—Vietnamese fare includes beef teriyaki, roasted quail, curry ginger chicken, vegetarian options, and a variety of soups. 2946 Poplar. 458-1644. L, D, $

PIMENTO’S KITCHEN + MARKET—Fresh sandwiches, soups, salads, and plenty of pimento cheese at this family-owned restaurant. 6540 Poplar Ave. 602-5488 (Collierville: 3751 S. Houston Levee. 453-6283). L, D, X, $

PYRO’S FIRE-FRESH PIZZA—Serving gourmet pizzas cooked in an open-fire oven, wide choice of toppings, and large local and craft beer selection. 1199 Ridgeway. 379-8294; 2035 Union Ave. 208-8857; 2286 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 207-1198; 3592 S. Houston Levee (Collierville). 221-8109. L, D, X, MRA, $

RED HOOK CAJUN SEAFOOD & BAR—Cajun-style array of seafood including shrimp, mussels, clams, crawfish, and oysters. 3295 Poplar. 207-1960. L, D, X, $-$$

RED KOI—Classic Japanese cuisine offered at this family-run restaurant; hibachi steaks, sushi, seafood, chicken, and vegetables. 5847 Poplar. 767-3456. L, D, X $-$$

RED PIER CAJUN SEAFOOD & BAR—Owners of Red Hook bring more cajun-style seafood dishes. 5901 Poplar Ave. 512-5923. L, D, X, $-$$$

RESTAURANT IRIS—French Creole-inspired classics, such as Gulf shrimp and rice grits congee served with lap chong sausage and boiled peanuts, are served at this newly remodeled restaurant owned by Chef Kelly English, a Food and Wine “Top Ten.” 4550 Poplar. 590-2828. L, D, X, $$-$$$

RIVER OAKS—Chef Jose Gutierrez’s French-style bistro serves seafood and steaks, with an emphasis on fresh local ingredients.

Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 5871 Poplar Ave. 683-9305. L, D, X, $$$

RONNIE GRISANTI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT— This Memphis institution serves some family classics such as Elfo’s Special and handmade ravioli, along with house-made pizza and fresh oysters. Closed Sun. 6150 Poplar, Suite 122. 850-0191. D, X, $-$$$

ROTOLO’S CRAFT & CRUST—Louisiana-based pizza company’s first Memphis location, whipping up pizza pies with homemade sauces and fresh ingredients, pasta, wings, and other shareables. 681 S. White Station. 454-3352. L, D, X, $-$$

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE—Offers prime steaks cut and aged in-house, as well as lamb, chicken, and fresh seafood, including lobster. 6120 Poplar. 761-0055. D, X, $$$-$$$$

SALSA—Mexican-Southern California specialties include carnitas, enchiladas verde, and fajitas; also Southwestern seafood dishes such as snapper verde. Closed Sun. Regalia Shopping Center, 6150 Poplar, Suite 129. 683-6325. L, D, X, $-$$

SAUCY CHICKEN—Specializes in antibiotic-free chicken dishes with locally sourced ingredients, with such items as hot wings and the Crosstown Chicken Sandwich, and a variety of house-made dipping sauces; also, seafood, salads, and daily specials. Closed Sun. 4715 Poplar. 907-0741. L, D, $

SEASONS 52—This elegant fresh grill and wine bar offers a seasonally changing menu using fresh ingredients, wood-fire grilling, and brick-oven cooking; also a large international wine list and nightly piano bar. Crescent Center, 6085 Poplar. 682-9952. L, D, X, $$-$$$

SOBEAST—Eastern branch of the popular South of Beale, featuring the restaurant’s traditional staples, as well as rotating special menu items. 5040 Sanderlin. 818-0821. L, D, SB, X, $-$$.

STAKS—Offering pancakes, including birthday cake and lemon ricotta. Menu includes other breakfast items such as beignets and French toast, as well as soups and sandwiches for lunch. 4615 Poplar. 509-2367; 7704 Poplar (Germantown). 800-1951; 2902 May Blvd. (Southaven). B, L, WB, X, $

SWANKY’S TACO SHOP—Taco-centric eatery offers tortas, flatbreads, quesadillas, chimichangas, burgers, and more. 4770 Poplar. 730-0763; 6641 Poplar (Germantown). 737-2088; 272 S. Main. 7793499. L, D, X, $

THREE LITTLE PIGS—Pork-shoulder-style barbecue with tangy mild or hot sauce, freshly made coleslaw, and baked beans. 5145 Quince Rd. 685-7094. B, L, D, X, $

TOPS BAR-B-Q—Specializes in pork barbecue sandwiches and sandwich plates with beans and slaw; also serves ribs, beef brisket, and burgers. 1286 Union. 725-7527; 4183 Summer. 324-4325; 5391 Winchester. 794-7936; 3970 Rhodes. 323-9865; 6130 Macon. 3710580. For more locations, go online. L, D, X, $

TORCHY’S TACOS—Plenty of Tex-Mex variety, with creative monthly special tacos. 719 S. Mendenhall. 343-8880. B, L, D, X, $

VENICE KITCHEN—Specializes in “eclectic Italian” and Southern Creole, from pastas, including the “Godfather,” to hand-tossed pizzas, including the “John Wayne”; choose from 50 toppings. 368 Perkins Ext. 767-6872. L, D, SB, X, $-$$

WANG’S MANDARIN HOUSE—Offers Mandarin, Cantonese, Szechuan, and spicy Hunan entrees, including the golden-sesame chicken; next door is East Tapas, serving small plates with an Asian twist. 6065 Park Ave., Park Place Mall. 763-0676. L, D, X, $-$$

WASABI—Serving traditional Japanese offerings, hibachi, sashimi, and sushi. The Sweet Heart roll, wrapped — in the shape of a heart — with tuna and filled with spicy salmon, yellowtail, and avocado, is a specialty. 5101 Sanderlin Rd., Suite 105. 421-6399. L, D, X, $-$$

WOMAN’S EXCHANGE TEA ROOM—Chicken-salad plate, beef tenderloin, soups-and-sandwiches, and vegetable plates are specialties; meal includes drink and dessert. Closed Sat.-Sun. 88 Racine. 327-5681. L, X, $

ZAYDE’S AT THE J—Kosher options at the Memphis Jewish Community Center cafe include traditional New York-style dishes and Israeli fusion. 6560 Poplar Ave. 208-3495. L, D, X, $-$$

CORDOVA

BOMBAY HOUSE—Indian fare includes lamb korma and chicken tikka; also, a daily luncheon buffet. 1727 N. Germantown Pkwy. 755-4114. L, D, X, $-$$

THE BUTCHER SHOP—Serves steaks ranging from 8-oz. filets to a 20-oz. porterhouse; also chicken, pork chops, fresh seafood. 107 S. Germantown Rd. 757-4244. L (Fri. and Sun.), D, X, $$-$$$

GREEN BAMBOO—Pineapple tilapia, pork vermicelli, and the soft egg noodle combo are Vietnamese specialties here. 990 N. Germantown Parkway, Suite 104. 753-5488. L, D, $-$$

JIM ’N NICK’S BAR-B-Q—Serves barbecued pork, ribs, chicken, brisket, and fish, along with other homemade Southern specialties. 2359 N. Germantown Pkwy. 388-0998. L, D, X, $-$$

EL MERO TACO—This food truck turned restaurant serves up Mexican and Southern-style fusion dishes, including fried chicken tacos, chorizo con papas tacos, and brisket quesadillas. 8100 Macon Station, Suite 102. 308-1661. Closed Sun.-Mon. L, D, WB, X, $

POKÉ WORLD—Serves up Hawaiian poké bowls filled with rice and diced, raw fish. Also offers Taiwanese bubble tea and rolled ice cream for dessert. 1605 N. Germantown Pkwy., Suite 111. 623-7986. East Memphis: 575 Erin Dr. 779-4971. L, D, $

SHOGUN JAPANESE RESTAURANT—Entrees include tempura, teriyaki, and sushi, as well as grilled fish and chicken entrees. 2324 N. Germantown Pkwy. 384-4122. L, D, X, $-$$

TANNOOR GRILL—Brazilian-style steakhouse with skewers served tableside, along with Middle Eastern specialties; vegetarian options also available. 830 N. Germantown Pkwy. 443-5222. L, D, X, $-$$$

GERMANTOWN

BLUE HONEY BISTRO—Entrees at this upscale eatery include brown butter scallops served with Mississippi blue rice and herbcrusted beef tenderloin with vegetables and truffle butter. Closed Sun. 9155 Poplar, Suite 17. 552-3041. D, X, $-$$$

FOREST HILL GRILL—A variety of standard pub fare and a selection of mac-and-cheese dishes are featured on the menu. Specialties include Chicken Newport and a barbecue salmon BLT. 9102 Poplar Pike. 6246001. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$

GERMANTOWN COMMISSARY—Serves barbecue sandwiches, sliders, ribs, shrimp, and nachos, as well as smoked barbecued bologna sandwiches; Mon.-night all-you-can-eat ribs. 2290 S. Germantown Rd. S. 754-5540. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$

LAS TORTUGAS DELI MEXICANA—Authentic Mexican food prepared from local food sources; specializes in tortugas — grilled bread scooped out to hold such powerfully popular fillings as brisket, pork, and shrimp; also tingas, tostados. Closed Sun. 1215 S. Germantown Rd. 751-1200; 6300 Poplar. 623-3882. L, D, X, $-$$

LIMELIGHT—Wolf River Hospitality Group brings Wagyu beef, swordfish steaks, and plenty of other fine dining and colorful cocktails to Germantown. Closed Mon./Tue. 7724 Poplar Pike. 791-2328. D, X, $-$$$

MOONDANCE GRILL—From the owners of Itta Bena and Lafayette’s. Serves steak cooked sous vide and seafood dishes including Abita-barbecued shrimp and pan-seared sand dab, in addition to an extensive wine and cocktail list. 1730 S. Germantown Road, Suite 117. 755-1471. L, D, X, $$-$$$

NOODLES ASIAN BISTRO—Serves a variety of traditional Asian cuisine, with emphasis on noodle dishes, such as Singapore Street Noodles and Hong Kong Chow Fun. 7850 Poplar, Suite 12. 755-1117. L, D, X, $

PETRA CAFÉ—Serves Greek, Italian, and Middle Eastern sandwiches, gyros, and entrees. Hours vary; call. 6641 Poplar. 754-4440; 547 S. Highland. 323-3050. L, D, X, $-$$

ROCK’N DOUGH PIZZA CO.—Specialty and custom pizzas made from fresh ingredients; wide variety of toppings. 7850 Poplar, Suite 6. 779-2008. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $$

ROYAL PANDA—Hunan fish, Peking duck, Royal Panda chicken and shrimp, and a seafood combo are among the specialties. 3120 Village Shops Dr. 756-9697. L, D, X, $-$$

SAKURA—Sushi, tempura, and teriyaki are Japanese specialties here. 2060 West St. 758-8181; 4840 Poplar. 572-1002; 255 New Byhalia Rd. 316-5638. L, D, X, $-$$

SOUTHERN SOCIAL—Shrimp and grits, stuffed quail, and Aunt Thelma’s Fried Chicken are among the dishes served at this upscale Southern establishment. 2285 S. Germantown Rd. 754-5555. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$

TAZIKI’S—Mediterranean-inspired dishes all made from scratch. 7850 Poplar Ave., Suite 26. 612-2713. East Memphis: 540 S. Mendenhall Rd. 290-1091. Bartlett: 7974 US-64. 203-0083. L, D, $

THE TOASTED YOLK CAFE—Churro donuts, signature Eggs Benedict, and plenty other boozy brunch options at this franchise’s first Tennessee location. 9087 Poplar Ave., Ste. 11. B, L, X, $-$$

UNCLE GOYO’S—More than 30 dishes with a focus on authentic Mexican cuisine, from the brains behind TacoNganas. 1730 S. Germantown Rd. L, D, X, $-$$

WEST STREET DINER—This home-style eatery offers breakfast, burgers, po’boys, and more. 2076 West St. 757-2191. B, L, D (Mon.-Fri.), X, $

ZEN JAPANESE FINE CUISINE—A full sushi bar and plenty of authentic Japanese dishes, like Hibachi or Wagyu beef. 1730 S. Germantown Rd. 779-2796. L, D, X, X, $-$$$

COLLIERVILLE

CAFE EUROPE—From Italian chef Michele D’oto, the French, Spanish, and Italian fusion cuisine includes a variety of dishes like Rosette al Forno, fish ceviche, and sole meuniere. Closed Sun. 4610 Merchants Park Circle, Suite 571. 286-4199. L, D, X, $$-$$$$

CAFE PIAZZA BY PAT LUCCHESI—Specializes in gourmet pizzas (including create-your-own), panini sandwiches, and pasta. Closed Sun. 139 S. Rowlett St. 861-1999. L, D, X, $-$$

CIAO BABY—Specializing in Neapolitan-style pizza made in a woodfired oven. Also serves house-made mozzarella, pasta, appetizers, and salads. 890 W. Poplar, Suite 1. 457-7457. L, D, X, $

COLLIERVILLE COMMISSARY—Serves barbecue sandwiches, sliders, ribs, shrimp, and nachos, as well as smoked barbecued bologna sandwiches. 3573 S. Houston Levee Rd. 979-5540. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$

COLLIERVILLE PIZZA COMPANY—Family-friendly and locally owned pizza company featuring live music and other events. 144 US 72. L, D, X, $-$$

DAVID GRISANTI’S—Serving Northern Italian cuisine and traditional family recipes, like the Elfo Special, shrimp sauteed in garlic and butter, tossed with white button mushrooms and white pepper, and served over vermicelli with Parmigiano-Reggiano. Closed Sun. 684 W. Poplar (Sheffield Antiques Mall). 861-1777. L, D (Thurs.-Sat.), X, $-$$$

EL MEZCAL—Serves burritos, chimichangas, fajitas, and other Mexican cuisine, as well as shrimp dinners and steak. 9947 Wolf River, 853-7922; 402 Perkins Extd. 761-7710; 694 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 755-1447; 1492 Union. 274-4264; 11615 Airline Rd. (Arlington). 867-1883; 9045 Highway 64 (Lakeland). 383-4219; 7164 Hacks Cross Rd. (Olive Branch). 662-890-3337; 8834 Hwy. 51 N. (Millington). 872-3220; 7424 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 417-6026. L, D, X, $

EMERALD THAI RESTAURANT—Spicy shrimp, pad khing, lemongrass chicken, and several noodle, rice, and vegetarian dishes are offered at this family restaurant. Closed Sunday. 8950 Highway 64 (Lakeland, TN). 384-0540. L, D, X, $-$$

FIREBIRDS—Specialties are hand-cut steaks, slow-roasted prime rib, and wood-grilled salmon and other seafood, as well as seasonal entrees. 4600 Merchants Circle, Carriage Crossing. 850-1637; 8470 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 379-1300. L, D, X, $-$$$

JIM’S PLACE GRILLE—Features American, Greek, and Continental cuisine. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 3660 Houston Levee. 861-5000. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$

MULAN ASIAN BISTRO—Hunan Chicken, tofu dishes, and orange beef served here; sushi and Thai food, too. 2059 Houston Levee. 850-5288; 2149 Young. 347-3965; 4698 Spottswood. 609-8680. L, D, X, $-$$

OSAKA JAPANESE CUISINE—Featuring an extensive sushi menu as well as traditional Japanese and hibachi dining. Hours vary for lunch; call. 3670 Houston Levee. 861-4309; 3402 Poplar. 249-4690; 7164 Hacks Cross (Olive Branch). 662-890-9312; 2200 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 425-4901. L, D, X, $-$$$

RAVEN & LILY—Eatery offers innovative Southern-inspired cuisine with such dishes as crispy shrimp and cauliflower salad, spiced lamb sausage and parmesan risotto, and bananas foster pain perdu. Closed Mon. 120 E. Mulberry. 286-4575. L, D, SB, X, $-$$

STIX—Hibachi steakhouse with Asian cuisine features steak, chicken, and a fillet and lobster combination, also sushi. A specialty is Dynamite Chicken with fried rice. 4680 Merchants Park Circle, Avenue Carriage Crossing. 854-3399. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 115 (Downtown). 207-7638 L, D, X, $-$$

WOLF RIVER BRISKET CO.—From the owners of Pyro’s Fire Fresh Pizza, highlights include house-smoked meats: prime beef brisket, chicken, and salmon. Closed Sun. 9947 Wolf River Boulevard, Suite 101. 316-5590; 1350 Concourse Ave., Suite 165. 791-4389 L, D, X, $-$$

ZOPITA’S ON THE SQUARE—Cafe offers sandwiches, including smoked salmon and pork tenderloin, as well as salads and desserts. Closed Sun. 114 N. Main. 457-7526. L, D, X, $

OUT-OF-TOWN

BOZO’S HOT PIT BAR-B-Q—Barbecue, burgers, sandwiches, and subs. 342 Highway 70 (Mason, TN). 901-294-3400. L, D, X, $-$$

CATFISH BLUES—Serving Delta-raised catfish and Cajun- and Southern-inspired dishes, including gumbo and fried green tomatoes. 210 E. Commerce (Hernando, MS). 662-298-3814. L, D, $

CITY GROCERY—Southern eclectic cuisine; shrimp and grits is a specialty. Closed for dinner Sun. 152 Courthouse Square (Oxford, MS). 662-232-8080. L, D, SB, X, $$-$$$

COMO STEAKHOUSE—Steaks cooked on a hickory charcoal grill are a specialty here. Upstairs is an oyster bar. Closed Sun. 203 Main St. (Como, MS). 662-526-9529. D, X, $-$$$

ELFO GRISANTI’S NORTHERN ITALIAN CUISINE—Grisanti family classics like lasagna, homemade ravioli, garlic bread, and Northern Italian pizza. Closed Sun. 5627 Getwell Rd. (Southaven, MS). 662-4704497. L, D, X, $-$$

LONG ROAD CIDER CO.—Specializes in hard apple ciders made with traditional methods. Cafe-style entrees include black-eyed peas with cornbread and greens, chicken Gorgonzola pockets, cider-steamed sausage, and housemade ice creams. Closed Sun.-Wed. 9053 Barret Road. (Barretville, TN). 352-0962. D, X, $

MANILA FILIPINO RESTAURANT—Entrees include pork belly cutlet with lechon sauce, and shrimp and vegetables in tamarind broth; also daily combos, rice dishes, and chef specials. Closed Sun.-Mon. 7849 Rockford (Millington, TN). 209-8525. L, D, X, $

MARSHALL STEAKHOUSE—Rustic steakhouse serves premium Angus beef steaks, seafood dishes, rack of lamb, and more. 2379 Highway 178 (Holly Springs, MS). 628-3556. B, L, D, X, $-$$$

CASINO TABLES

CHICAGO STEAKHOUSE AT THE GOLDSTRIKE—1010 Casino Center Dr., Robinsonville, MS, 1-888-24KSTAY /662-357-1225

FAIRBANKS AT THE HOLLYWOOD—1150 Casino Strip Blvd., Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-871-0711

IGNITE STEAKHOUSE AT SOUTHLAND CASINO RACING—1550 N. Ingram Blvd., West Memphis, AR, 1-800-467-6182

JACK BINION’S STEAK HOUSE AT HORSESHOE—1021 Casino Center Drive, Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-303-SHOE

LUCKY 8 ASIAN BISTRO AT HORSESHOE—1021 Casino Center Drive, Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-303-SHOE

SOUTHLAND CASINO HOTEL'S THE KITCHENS—1550 N. Ingram Blvd., West Memphis, AR, 1-800-467-6182

THE STEAKHOUSE AT THE FITZ—711 Lucky Ln., Robinsonville, MS, 1-888-766-LUCK, ext 8213

TWAIN’S STEAKHOUSE AT SAM’S TOWN TUNICA—1477 Casino Strip Resorts Boulevard, Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-456-0711

MEMPHIS BARBECUE COMPANY—Offers spare ribs, baby backs, and pulled pork and brisket. 709 Desoto Cove (Horn Lake, MS). 662-536-3762. L, D, X, $-$$

NAGOYA—Offers traditional Japanese cuisine and sushi bar; specialties are teriyaki and tempura dishes. 7075 Malco Blvd., Suite 101 (Southaven, MS). 662-349-8788. L, D, X, $-$$$

PIG-N-WHISTLE—Offers pork shoulder sandwiches, wet and dry ribs, catfish, nachos, and stuffed barbecue potatoes. 6084 Kerr-Rosemark Rd. (Millington, TN). 872-2455. L, D, X, $

RAVINE—Serves contemporary Southern cuisine with an emphasis on fresh, locally grown foods and a menu that changes weekly. Closed Mon.-Tues. 53 Pea Ridge/County Rd. 321 (Oxford, MS). 662-234-4555. D, SB, X, $$-$$$

SAINT LEO’S—Offering sophisticated pizzas, pastas, sandwiches, and salads. A James Beard nominee for Best New Restaurant in 2017. 1101 Jackson (Oxford, MS). 662-234-4555. D, L, WB, X, $-$$

SNACKBAR—An intriguing mix of “French Bistro with North Mississippi Cafe.” Serving a confit duck Croque Monsieur, watermelon-cucumber chaat, pan-fried quail, plus a daily plate special and a raw bar. 721 N. Lamar (Oxford, MS). 662-236-6363. D, X, $-$$$

TEKILA MODERN MEXICAN—Modern interpretations of classic dishes from all over Mexico. 6343 Getwell Rd. (Southaven, MS). 662-510-5734. B, L, D, X, $-$$

WILSON CAFE— An impressive culinary destination in the heart of the Arkansas Delta. Serving jambalaya, Waygu flatiron, butternut ravioli, swordfish & shrimp kabobs, burgers. 2 N. Jefferson (Wilson, AR). 870-655-0222. L, D, WB, $-$$$

Britling Cafeteria

BY VANCE LAUDERDALE

fi re. Within minutes, the whole restaurant was ablaze. Firemen rushing to the scene discovered a tragedy in the making, as more than 300 people jammed the exits trying to escape.

But then an odd thing happened, as reported in the Memphis Press-Scimitar : “A phonograph that changes records automatically kept playing as the patrons fi led out of the burning building. Officials believe this helped prevent a panic.” Except for a few cases of smoke inhalation, nobody was seriously injured.

After the fire, the owners rebuilt the cafeteria, and this photograph from the mid-1950s shows a truly fantastic ground-floor façade — all sweeping curves and polished marble and gleaming stainless steel. But that location closed in 1956, and the fine structure was demolished a few years later to make way for First Horizon Bank’s new headquarters.

Owners remodeled the Britling at 75 Union, which featured a Colonial Revival exterior complete with portico and white columns. Among the enhancements: murals by noted Memphis artist Burton Callicott, and “one wall will be a precast terrazzo panel in three dimensions in an off-white shade,” which the designers bragged was “the first of its kind in Memphis.”

It’s probably not common knowledge that the famed British author H.G. Wells played a role in one of our city’s best-known restaurants.

I’m referring to Britling Cafeterias, which occupied very impressive buildings Downtown before branching out to other areas of Memphis. e first one here (above) opened in 1921 at 155 Madison. A second location opened in 1938 at 75 Union, next door to the Loew’s Palace eatre. e founder’s name was not Britling, as you might expect,

but A.W.B. Johnson, who decided that “Johnson’s Cafeteria” just didn’t have the right ring to it. e story goes that he was reading a collection of short stories by science-fiction master H.G. Wells (author of such classics as War of the Worlds and e Time Machine), when he encountered a story titled “Mr. Britling Sees It Through.” He decided that

was a fine, classy name for his new eatery, and eventually opened others in Nashville and Louisville, Lexington, and Frankfort in Kentucky.

The company’s slogan, promoted on its menus and matchbooks, was “Good Food Is Good Health.” Still, eating there could, at least one time, be risky. Customers of the Madison Avenue Britling had a narrow escape on the afternoon of November 4, 1929, when rags stored in the basement somehow caught

Britling opened a cafeteria in Poplar Plaza in the late 1950s, and by 1970 also had branches in Laurelwood and Northgate shopping centers. But then the chain rather abruptly came to an end. In the 1980s, new owners of the property demolished the Union Avenue Britling — along with Loew’s Palace — to make way for Parking Can Be Fun. All three shopping center locations closed about the same time.

ere may still be Britling cafeterias in other cities — I haven’t been to Frankfort, Kentucky, in a while — but today not a trace remains in Memphis of the popular restaurant chain where “good food is good health.”

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