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Flanders today SEPTEMBER 17 2008

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N°47

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I N D E P E N D E N T N E W S W ee k l y

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Heritage Day, p.10

www . f l a nderst o d a y . E U Erkenningsnummer P708816 Julien Oppenheim

The mysterious Martin Margiela Peek behind the veil of Europe’s most secret design team Stéphanie Duval ntil February of next year, the Antwerp Fashion Museum (MoMu) is hosting Flanders’ most mysterious designer. Martin Margiela is notorious for declining personal interviews and remaining anonymous in any way he can. Consequently, it is not his story you’ll find in the exhibition, but that of the Maison Martin Margiela.

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Margiela graduated from the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts in the 1980s, at a time when the fashion world was enthralled by designers and top models with celebrity status. Because he saw what this narcissistic mentality was doing to the private lives of his predecessors, Margiela specifically made the choice to shift the focus of attention away from himself and on to the clothes. He founded Maison Martin

Margiela together with Jenny Meirens, and from the start the fashion house has profiled itself as a team. Interviews are given through faxes and emails, and questions are always answered in plural. It might not have been a marketing technique, but it sure added to the myth around this extremely talented designer – the famously silent member of the “Antwerp Six”. Maison Martin Margiela is

infused by this concept of anonymity and is always looking for original ways to make a statement. The garments are not signed with the Maison’s name, they simply have a white cotton label stitched inside. The effect, however, is double. Even the small, discrete, white stitches, visible on the outside of the garments, have become a status symbol for those in the know. “To further focus the attention on the clothing instead of on

anything else, the Maison often presents its collections on models made to look incognito,” explains Kaat Debo, director of MoMu, where the exhibition opened last weekend. “They comb all of their hair in front of their face, cover their faces with veils or paint a black censuring block over their eyes. Once, the clothes were not even presented on models at all, Continued on page 3

New migrants to be taught respect, solidarity and waste recycling Social orientation course stresses Flemish values Alan Hope lemish society is founded on respect for liberty, solidarity, respect for others, equality and civic responsibility. And the government considers it important to stress that boys and girls be educated equally and allowed the same opportunities, as well as being allowed freedom in choosing a life partner. That, at any rate, is what some 15,000 newly-arrived immigrants to Flanders will soon be learning, according to a new handbook on social orientation unveiled by integration minister Marino Keulen

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Business

Arts

Active

The tech sector is Flanders is mainly foreign owned – led by US car manufacturer Ford. But a leading Belgian technology federation warns that new foreign investments are falling behind.

Racism, romance and journalism in Antwerp: new Flemish film has its mouth – and its heart – in the right place.

Cycling in Flanders has never been easier, thanks to an interchange network that lets you choose your own path and the best cycle cafes.

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Business 7-8

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Living 13

last week. New non-EU residents in Flanders have since 2004 been obliged to go through an integration procedure, with 140 hours of free lessons in Dutch, help in finding work and a course in social orientation. The materials for the latter are a handbook and multimedia pack including DVD and website, developed by educational publisher Van In and film production house Ensemblage. This is the first time the same course has been used region-wide, and it is available

Agenda 14-15

Continued on page 5 Interview 16

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