DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 €3 The official visitors’ guide of the Malta Hotels and Restaurants Association
A SHOWCASE OF MALTA
Property High demand for properties in Valletta
Must Attend Valletta International Baroque Festival
Discover what’s on this festive season
TRADITIONS The Christmas of yesteryear GOZO A rich festive calendar of events
your guide to events | fashion | eating & drinking | shopping
TH E O RIG INA L A MERICA N BRA ND
INSIDE
December 2014 & January 2015 EDITOR Isabel Depasquale PUBLISHERS Content House Group ADVERTISING Advertising Sales Executives Matthew Spiteri, Sabina Attard, Jordan Bonello Advertising Sales Coordinator Lindsey Ciantar PRINTERS Progress Press Ltd Art Direction & Design Box Design - T: +356 9949 1418
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Photography Malta Tourism Authority, Heritage Malta, Ministry for Gozo, Lionel Galea, Rene Rossignaud
14 Events
A list of the major events taking place in the months of December and January.
17 Cover Story
Season of Joy – Jo Caruana picks a few of her favourite events and activities this festive season.
49 Fashion
The Prfect Party Outfit – ‘Tis the season to hit the town for some festive celebrations and to look great while doing so. Sarah Micallef reveals her favourite fashion trends this party season.
26 Property
Guide Me is published every two months in Malta. The magazine is the official visitors’ guide of the Malta Hotels and Restaurants Association. The publication is distributed free of charge in the individual rooms of three, four and five star hotels. Guide Me is also distributed for free from MTA offices in Malta and Gozo and at the La Valette Club within the Malta International Airport (MIA). It is also sold at leading newsagents in Malta and Gozo, including those at The Valletta Waterfront and at MIA.
Spotlight on Valletta – Jo Caruana discovers what’s behind the recent surge in demand for property in the capital.
40 Traditions
The Maltese Christmas of Old – Historian Guido Lanfranco shares his memories of a very different Christmas in Malta with Sarah Micallef.
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Content House Group, Mallia Buildings, 3, Level 2, Triq in-Negozju, Mriehel, QRM3000. T: +356 2132 0713 E: info@contenthouse.com.mt W: www.contenthouse.com.mt
Cover picture: The Manoel Theatre – to host the Baroque Festival in January (see p47). Photo by www.viewingmalta.com
Editorial opinions expressed in Guide Me are not necessarily those of the Malta Hotels and Restaurants Association or of Content House Group and both organisations do not accept responsibility for editorial or advertising content. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited.
INSIDE
December 2014 & January 2015 57 Where to Spend It
If you intend to shop in Malta, make sure to visit these shops.
58 Gozo
Christmas in Gozo – There’s a wonderful mix of old and new in the charming island of Gozo which comes alive during the festive season thanks to a fun-filled calendar of events. Martina Said sheds light on what’s on.
65 Cuisine
For the Love of Maltese Food – Martina Said lets you in on what to expect if you are after a hearty, traditional meal during your stay.
71 Eating & Drinking
Some tips on where to wine and dine.
85 Nightlife
Let’s Party! – The clubbing scene is buzzing at this time of year. Martina Said picks the not-to-be-missed events.
There may be many grand places, but there is only one true Palazzo… Visit Palazzo Parisio in Naxxar. A Unique 19th Century Maltese Aristocrat’s Private Residence & Gardens with a delightful Garden Restaurant, Luna, which is open for lunch from Monday to Sunday, and for dinner Thursday to Saturday.
Golden Sunsets & Moonlit Evenings
Enjoy an Aperitivo with your friends or choose to savour an exquisite dinner in the unparalleled luxury of our Gardens.
House & Garden Visits: Daily from 9am until 5pm
Luna The Restaurant - Tea Room - Boutique Gifts - Audio Guided Tours 29, Victory Square, Naxxar - Malta • www.palazzopariSio.coM
FOREWORD
C
Welcome to the Maltese islands!
hristmas in Malta is very different from Christmas in mainland Europe mainly due to our mild climate. Daytime temperatures in winter rarely fall below 10°C, while night-time winter temperatures never fall below 0°C. In fact it never snows here. So with a white Christmas out of the window families are more likely to head to the beach (albeit very few dare to swim as the water tends to be very cold) for a picnic or leisurely stroll on the sand at this time of year. Nonetheless, the festive cheer on the islands is tangible and in this issue of Guide Me we seek to shed light on the top events and activities that are unfolding over
ISSUE
58
DECEMBER-JANUARY 2015
Photo: Mario Galea - viewingmalta.com
the festive season. Whether you would like to immerse yourself in the true meaning of Christmas – visiting resplendent churches, viewing cribs and listening to carols, among others – or whether you are after a spate of Christmas shopping, dining out, clubbing or joining the locals for some festive celebrations, we’ve got it covered. This issue is not just about Christmas however. Our interesting Property section lets you in on why property in Valletta is a sound investment. Locals and expats alike are investing in this beautiful city
like never before. In her article on page 26 Jo Caruana discovers what is luring property buyers to the capital and meets a couple of expats who have made the city their home – and are loving it. Our Cuisine section on page 69 also makes for an interesting read. It delves into what to look out for if you are after a genuine taste of Malta, with a focus on hearty dishes made from locally sourced ingredients. Best wishes for a merry Christmas and a prosperous 2015 to all readers of Guide Me.
Isabel Depasquale EDITOR
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CALENDAR OF EVENTS 2014 December 01 December-04 January Edward Lear – Watercolours & Words – An exhibition organised by Palazzo Falson on behalf of Fondazzjoni Patrimonju Malti, ‘Edward Lear – Watercolours & Words’ is guest-curated by John Varriano, Professor Emeritus of Art History at Mount Holyoke College, Massachusetts, who is the author of a forthcoming book on Lear in Malta. Venue: Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum, Mdina. www.palazzofalson.com
01 December-11 January The Roman Inquisition in Malta – Witchcraft, magical spells, theft and profanation of the sacred and a myriad other curious episodes from the past are some of the themes of this fascinating exhibition which explores the role of the Inquisitor as supreme judge of the Holy Inquisition and an Apostolic delegate representative of the papacy. Exhibits include authentic proceedings and magical sheets from the Cathedral Archives, Palace plans from the Vatican Archives and a number of books originally belonging to the Inquisitor’s own personal library. Venue: The Inquisitor’s Palace, Birgu. www.heritagemalta.org
01 December-31 January Malta – The Great Story of a Small Island-Nation Through 100 Objects – Explore the history of Malta from its geological formation, 35million years ago, to the more recent EU accession through 100 objects. The story is told almost exclusively through objects, artefacts – things that humans have made, and ecofacts – things found
in nature. Venue: National Museum of Archaeology, Republic Street, Valletta. www.heritagemalta.org
05-06 December Carols by Candlelight – Festivities for the Christmas season in Gozo will open with the 11th edition of this much acclaimed Christmas event. The evening will start with a Christmas concert at St Augustine’s Church in Victoria. The programme will include classical and traditional pieces together with some contemporary compositions. Right after the concert, there will be a dinner in the cloister, adjacent to the church, along with an exhibition in the ante-room leading to the cloister. www.scjchoir.com
05 December-04 January Christmas in Gozo – An array of festivities and special events will be held in various villages across Gozo. The programme features Christmas markets, a children’s fun park, nativity scenes, cribs, art exhibitions, choir performances and carol singing, and the highlight of the season, the ‘Betlehem f’Għajnsielem’ live crib. www. christmasingozo.com
06 December-05 January Bethlehem f’Għajnsielem – Bethlehem f’ Għajnsielem is an animated nativity village offering a naturalistic reproduction of the timeless story of the nativity. The atmosphere is unique... horses turn mills, villagers go about their jobs, shepherds inhabit caves, animals roam in enclosed spaces and a poor unknown couple tend their new-born in a grotto. It will also include re-enactments of the trip from Nazareth to Bethlehem as well as the Adoration of the Magi on the first Sunday after New Year, when the three Wise Men will depart
on horseback from Malta to the Ċirkewwa terminal, boarding a ferry before making the triumphant entrance into the nativity village. Venue: Ta’ Passi fields, Għajnsielem, Gozo. www.ghajnsielem.com/bethlehem
08 December Al Bano Carrisi Live in Concert – Fans will have the opportunity to attend and listen to some of the much loved Italian singer’s most popular songs such as Felicità, Nel Sole, Sharazan, Nostalgia Canaglia, Libertà and many others. Venue: Mediterranean Conference Centre, Valletta. www.mcc.com.mt
08 December Feast of the Immaculate Conception – The Feast of the Immaculate Conception is celebrated in the town of Cospicua in Malta. The day is a public holiday. www.maltadiocese.org
12-14 December Go Teatru Unplugged 17 – Held annually since 1998, this unique and fast-moving concert consists of seven short acts of diverse musical genres namely pop, rock and jazz, adding a different flavour to the baroque setting of Malta’s national theatre. This year’s performers are soloists Simon Schembri, Berne and Emilia Wisniewska, the duo Justin Galea and Claire Tonna, and three full bands – Gianni and Friends, nosnow/noalps and Stoned. Venue: Manoel Theatre, Valletta. Time: 8pm.
13 December Republic Day – On 3th December 1974 the Maltese Constitution was amended and Malta became a Republic. Activities marking this historic date take place every year, mostly in Valletta. www.maltaculture.com
For the full online Malta Calendar of Events please go to: www.visitmalta.com/events-calendar
13-14 December Malta Artisan Christmas Market – This festive fair features over 70 stalls selling local arts and crafts made by independent artists, ranging from jewellery, wooden crafts, toys, paintings, aromatherapy, clothing and much more. There will also be delicacies made from fresh local produce and plenty of souvenirs to take home. Venue: Hotel Phoenicia Ballroom, Valletta. www.maltaartisanmarkets.com
Christmas highlights. Venue: Malta Fairs and Conventions Centre (MFCC), Ta’ Qali. www.madc.com.mt
Venue: The Villa, St Julian’s. www. showshappening.com/GET-it/XMAS-EVE
31 December 23 December-04 January Pinocchio – The Panto – FM Theatre Productions are back once again with Pinocchio – The Panto at the stunning Teatru Manoel, set to be a fun-packed, laugh riddled adventure for the whole family. Venue: Manoel Theatre, Valletta. www.teatrumanoel.com.mt
YOUR NYE by Carl Bee – Another New Year’s Eve option for clubbers, YOUR NYE by Carl Bee with popular local DJ Carl Bee is set to ring in the New Year in style. Venue: Gianpula Complex, limits of Rabat. www.facebook.com/djcarlbee
January
15 December-06 January Christmas Cribs and Art Objects Exhibition – For the fifth consecutive year, the Malta Tourism Authority will be holding a Christmas Cribs and Art Objects exhibition. The exhibition will be open for visitors during office hours, and on Saturdays and Sundays. Venue: Malta Tourism Authority, Auberge d’Italie, Merchants Street, Valletta.
16 December Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland Live from London’s Royal Opera House – Broadcast live from London’s Royal Opera House is Christopher Wheeldon’s ballet, Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. Based on Lewis Carroll’s much-loved children’s classic, the production has been transformed into an exquisite ballet featuring stunning choreography, a colourful score and ingenious stage magic. Venue: Eden Cinemas, St Julian’s. Time: 8.15pm. www.edenculture.com.mt
28 December
09-10 January
In Guardia Parade – The In Guardia Parade is a re-enactment that portrays an authentic event that took place regularly inside important military fortifications in Malta and Gozo. During the re-enactment, the soldiers and knights of the fort’s garrison – some 55 re-enactors – are kitted-out in their finest uniforms and perform a military drill demonstrating to the Grand Bailiff the garrison’s state of readiness in the event of a military threat. The show starts at 11am and lasts 45 minutes. It will be held at St John’s Cavalier (close to Couvre Porte), in Birgu. www.visitmalta.com
The Twilight Sad – Live In Malta – Renowned and revered for their intense performances, Scottish band The Twilight Sad have released three full-length albums. The band will play in Malta as part of an extensive tour to promote their fourth album. Venue: St James Cavalier, Valletta. Time: 8pm. www.sjcav.org
31 December The Valletta National New Year’s Eve Celebration – Following the success of the last few years, Malta once more boasts a New Year’s Eve national celebration. This year, the festive atmosphere will be organised throughout most of Valletta. Time: 8.30pm. www.g7events.com
20 December-04 January Merry Poppins – The much-loved MADC Christmas Panto is back with a show promising to be nothing short of spectacular. The hilarious show is all set to be one of this year’s
31 December GET it XMAS EVE – Fans of electro-swing should head to this New Year’s Eve party by GET it. Also featuring local DJs Nicky SLiM & Squeak! with a soul shaking house session.
10-24 January Valletta International Baroque Festival 2015 – Embellished at the height of the baroque period, Valletta rose to become a city built by gentlemen for gentlemen. The Valletta International Baroque Festival is a celebration of this baroque identity – for two weeks, Valletta will resound with music from the period in which it was built. Visit the festival website for a complete programme of activities. www.vallettabaroquefestival.com.mt
joy
COVER STORY
Season of
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The Maltese are renowned for their love of celebrations and Christmas is no different. For that reason, the whole island comes alive with a sense of joy and excitement as 25th December approaches – the villages are adorned with pretty lights, the churches are decorated with flowers and rich fabrics, and friends and families plan endless schedules of lunches, teas and dinners. If you’re lucky enough to visit the island over the festive season, then you will be hard-pressed not to get into the spirit of things too. A great way to interact with the locals is to join Malta’s favourite café culture spot by the seafront in Sliema, where shoppers converge to take a break between gift-hunting. Alternatively, Valletta is bursting with festive cheer too, with carols playing loudly as throngs of people wander through the boutiques, cafés and restaurants. Away from the commercial side of Christmas, the island’s many churches also celebrate in style, with even the tiniest chapels decorated to the nines and welcoming parishioners to prayer services and carol singing. ‘Live’ cribs and crib exhibitions are also popular,
Photo by Aaron Briffa viewingmalta.com
alta embraces the festive season hook, line and sinker, with all sorts of wonderful events and activities to look forward to. Here Jo Caruana picks a few of her favourites, while asking three local personalities for their own advice on how best to enjoy Christmastime in Malta.
with some people opening their homes to showcase their own private cribs, and entire villages transforming to represent the birth of Jesus. It all combines for a wonderful and different celebration of Christmas.
So, whether you prefer to mingle with the crowds or embrace the traditions of the season, you’ll be spoilt for choice in Malta. Here we’ve picked out some of our favourite upcoming events, all with a festive twist.
Photo by Bernice Yeomans - viewingmalta.com
Christmas Quiz Night Place: Molly’s Café, Constitution Street, Mosta Site: (Facebook) Molly’s Cafe Date: 6 December Tickets: €10 Contact: 2730 0849 Molly’s Café’s Christmas Quiz Night will be a night full of fun and laughter. The dress code is ‘(ugly) Christmas Sweater’ and teams without one will lose points automatically. Bonus points will be given to teams who are fully accessorised in Christmas attire. The ticket price includes drinks, finger food and participation. ➜
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COVER STORY
MY CHRISTMAS
Bethlehem F’Għajnsielem
TV producer and actress Clare Agius starred in the hit Maltese film Simshar, which was recently accepted for Oscar consideration. As a mum to a little boy, Clare enjoys making family the focus of her festivities – although she also has some great suggestions for what visitors can
Place: Ta’ Passi Fields, Għajnsielem, Gozo Site: www.ghajnsielem.com/bethlehem Dates: 6 December-5 January Tickets: Free Contact: info@ghajnsielem.com
do while here. “I find Christmas such an exciting time. In Malta we’re so lucky to have all sorts of wonderful events to enjoy – from attending crib exhibitions in the villages, to midnight Mass at the beautiful Cathedral in the former capital, Mdina. “Christmas has always been about family in our house – from when my siblings and I were little, to us growing into adults with boyfriends and girlfriends, to our now large-scale get-togethers with our own children. We spend the day eating lots and lots of home cooking, playing games and telling jokes, before watching a good old Christmas film (often on ‘mute’ because we’re so talkative!). “One tradition we hold true is the lighting of the Christmas pudding, which was always our grandfather’s role as he had been a chef with the Navy. Sadly he is no longer with us and that job has somehow passed to me – and I take much pride in doing it! “There is absolutely loads for visitors to enjoy during the season here in Malta. I would certainly suggest the Nativity Village in Għajnsielem, Gozo, as well as the performance by the St Monica Choir in the Mdina Cathedral; both are spectacular. Alternatively, simply roam the streets of the little towns and villages and immerse yourself in the true and authentic spirit of Malta’s warmth and love during this time of year. You will doubtlessly be made to feel very welcome!”
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Bethlehem f ’Għajnsielem is an animated nativity village spread across 20,000sqm of land. It promises a naturalistic reproduction of the environment of Bethlehem and the timeless story of the nativity, and has been ongoing for a number of years. Attractions include the carpenter and blacksmith’s dwellings, the bakery, a market selling fruit, fresh fish and vegetables, a tavern, a local crafts area and a barn. Each dwelling is inhabited and animated by whole families, to remind everyone that Christmas is a celebration dedicated to the family. The tavern offers local food and wine, while a picnic area will provide unique surroundings for a family outing. Oil lamps will even be distributed to those who visit by night. As always, the main attraction is the grotto, with baby Jesus in the caring hands of Mary, assisted by Joseph and with a donkey and a cow close by.
Photo by ghajnsielem.com
Artisan Christmas Village Place: Pjazza San Ġorġ, Victoria, Gozo Dates: 12-14 December Tickets: Free Contact: 2156 3344 An Artisan Christmas Village organised by the Victoria Local Council will be taking place in St George’s Square, Gozo. This Christmas Village will see the pretty square in the island’s capital transformed into a typical Christmas market, with festive wooden huts retailing a wide range of merchandise related to Christmas. A variety of entertainment for all ages will be provided over the three days, including storytelling for children. Everyone is warmly welcome to visit and explore the village, enjoy the festive spirit, get a bite to eat and, perhaps, find that special Christmas gift you have been looking for. ➜
COVER STORY
Christmas Concert
MY CHRISTMAS
Place: St John’s Co-Cathedral, Valletta Site: www.stjohnscocathedral.com Date: 19 December Tickets: Free on a firstcome, first-served basis Contact: 2122 0536
DJ Kurt ‘Ziggy’ Farrugia is very popular on the island’s dance music scene and has already enjoyed playing warm-up sessions for international artists including Fatboy Slim, Basement Jaxx and Faithless. His plans for Christmas include a mix of performances and family time.
The St John’s Co-Cathedral annual Christmas Concert will return on Friday 19th December. The Collegium Musicum Choir, which is the resident choir at the Co-Cathedral, will Photo - viewingmalta.com be performing on the night under the direction of Maestro Dion Buhagiar. The choir, along with the backdrop of the beautiful, gilded baroque cathedral, is set to deliver a magical experience for those in attendance.
The MADC Panto 2014 – Merry Poppins
Place: MFCC, Ta’ Qali Site: www.madc.com.mt Dates: 20 December-04 January Tickets: €10-€25 adults; €5 children Contact: 2122 4011
The MADC is busy preparing for yet another of its famous Christmas pantomimes – with this year’s show promising to be nothing short of spectacular. Alan Montanaro returns as Merry Poppins, a dame with a difference and a magical twist, in this rollercoaster journey that doesn’t shy away from delivering the big laughs. The show is written and directed by comedy veteran Malcolm Galea. Set on a Mediterranean island during colonial times, the show sees Merry Poppins, a nanny that is not your average nanny, being summoned to look after Governor Banks’ bratty children Mikey and Jane. Together with her confidante Bertu, Merry takes them to a fantasyland where they can have fun while helping the desperate Princess Fuzzyfluff and learning about responsibility. However all is not well! Back at home, the Governor and Mrs Banks are constantly being pressured by the power-hungry Lord and Lady Richman whose connection with the mysterious Dark Duke Derek makes them a force to be reckoned with. ➜
“There’s a lovely atmosphere at Christmastime in Malta. It’s great for visitors to be able to escape the cold weather at home, and to enjoy some winter sun in the Mediterranean. There are all sorts of events to look forward to – from formal parties in hotels, to more relaxed events at the top clubs and bars. If you’re planning to be here on Christmas Eve, breakfast is a great fun follow-up to midnight Mass. “For me, Christmas Day is all about the family, while Christmas Eve is usually spent DJing. Last Christmas I could finally fulfil my dream of dressing up as Santa Claus to surprise my daughter, who is two-years-old now – and I plan to keep that tradition alive! My fiancée and I, along with our daughter, then spend the day with our families. “Of course, New Year’s Eve is one big party. I always play exclusively for the Lights Out event – a themed party that attracts a fantastic crowd. This year the party will be at the Mansion Club and Playground, and it will be great fun if you fancy dancing the night away. There are also lots of family-friendly options to enjoy too, and I would recommend the street party in Valletta.”
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COVER STORY
MY CHRISTMAS Kenneth Zammit Tabone, the celebrated artist, writer and artistic director of the Manoel Theatre, is also a renowned host who loves hosting friends for festive events. For him, the festive season is all about good food, great company and plenty of culture. “In our family we’re true to both our British and Italian roots at Christmastime, which sometimes makes for an interesting menu! Christmas dinner will start with smoked salmon, move on to brodu (broth) with tortellini followed by turkey with all the trimmings, and will finish with Christmas pudding and cassatella Siciliana (a delicious Sicilian cake made with marzipan and ricotta) – and then there’s the stuffed dates and date tart! I believe that a real Maltese Christmas lunch embodies so many different places in the most extraordinary way – and that’s wonderful. “My birthday actually falls just before Christmas, so I enjoy getting into the spirit of all the parties and I enjoy the celebratory atmosphere that prevails. Of course, culture is a huge part of my life and a well-loved part of Christmas. This year I will be looking forward to the Baroque Christmas Concert at Our Lady of Graces Sanctuary in Żabbar on 20th December at 8pm. Conducted by Frenchman Sébastien Daucé, it will be a delightful representation of sacred and Christmassy French music from the 17th century, and it will be performed by the Ensemble Correspondances.
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Pinocchio: The Panto – 2014 Place: Manoel Theatre, Valletta Site: www.fmtheatre.com Dates: 23 December-4 January (with matinée shows daily at 3pm and evening shows at 8pm) Tickets: From €17 Contact: 2141 9306 Photo by Rene Rossignaud
Pinocchio the Panto follows the exciting adventures of the classic wooden puppet that wants to become a real boy. He is accompanied by Geppetto (Renato Dimech), Jimmy, his very nervous guardian (David Chircop), Fonzi (Niki Andrejevic), the kid of cool (not!) among others. The heroes will battle the Evil Sorceress (Tara Zammit) but not without the help of Princess Esmeralda (Maxine Aquilina) and the Blue Fairy (Larissa Bonaci). The story is heavily laced with laughs and corny gags, local satire and, of course, none of the politicians will be kept out of the spotlight. This is a great-fun show for all the family, set in Malta’s historic Manoel Theatre.
Comedy Knights Place: Teatru Salesjan, Sliema Site: www.comedyknights.com Dates: 26 December-3 January Tickets: €10 from Embassy Cinema Box Office, Valletta & City Concierge at The Plaza, Sliema. Contact: info@tactheatre.com After last year’s hugely successful debut performance, the Comedy Knights are back with another local satirical sketch show that reviews the year gone past and that is guaranteed to give you plenty of laughs at the expense of local personalities, politics and international current affairs. Featuring the very best in local talent, including Marc Cabourdin, Jo Caruana, Thomas Camilleri, Colin Fitz, Pia Zammit, Steve Hili, Wesley Ellul, Joseph Zammit and Philip Leone Ganado, among others, Comedy Knights promises plenty of festive giggles that both locals and foreigners will appreciate.
WELL-BEING
Myoka Spas have recently launched a new exclusive selection of exotic Pañpuri treatments and products, a first for Malta
Established in 2003 in Thailand, Pañpuri is a brand that is well known around the world for its luxurious skincare and aromatherapy products, including specialist massage therapies, indulgent spa and aromatherapy treatments, and invigorating facials using its own products. Each unique therapy offers a superlative and individual experience of the highest quality, helping stimulation, relaxation, harmony, sensuality and vitality. Here are a few examples of treatments available: PAÑPURI SIGNATURE FACIALS Experience the legendary healing and aromatic virtues of the purest white jasmine blossom essences with Pañpuri’s jasmine signature facial. This comforting facial boasts hydrating and anti-oxidant properties that amplify your skin’s defence against ageing. The result is that your skin looks younger, firmer and more luminous. NOURISHING (for normal to dry skin) 85mins – €100 REBALANCING (for oily and combination skin) 85mins – €100 TOTAL INDULGENCE (for mature skin types) 110mins – €130
THAI HERBAL COMPRESS MASSAGE Retreat to a calm surrender with a warm body wrap using premium herbs from the East. When these ancient Thai herbs are heated they release natural oils that soothe the mind and the body. After warming up your tired muscles, the treatment continues with a relaxing massage using the Thai Jasmine massage oil. 85mins – €120
INNER PEACE RELAXING MASSAGE Imagine you are in a faroff place and allow yourself to be transported away to a peaceful escape with the use of sensual Ylang Ylang extracts. Relax in a divine place, with an accompanying cranial massage to complete the peaceful journey. 55mins – €100/85mins – €120
This December Myoka Spas are giving out Pañpuri Gifts. Spend over €200 and you will receive a Free Pañpuri Gift. Share the love this festive season with Myoka Spas. Call T: 2137 0163/2137 0194.
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PROPERTY
Spotlight on
Valletta
Valletta is experiencing the start of a new era in its history. While, a few years back, it was known purely as a business and shopping destination, today it bustles constantly, with a plethora of places to drink, dine and experience some of the island’s best cultural offerings. In synch with this, property experts agree that the market in Valletta is booming, both thanks to the increase in investors and residential sales, as well as the new projects opening up, including top restaurants, bars and boutique hotels. “There’s a lot of hype surrounding Valletta at the moment, especially thanks to the city’s upcoming role as European Capital of Culture in 2018,” 26
explains Valletta property specialist Max Magri from Dhalia Real Estate Services. “These new projects – both cultural and commercial – are boosting interest in Valletta and turning it into a hub. The changes that have been talked about for so many years are finally coming into fruition.” One of the biggest draws to Valletta is its dynamic portfolio of options for property seekers. The city is dotted with various types of residences, from penthouses with views of the sea, to entire palazzos with vast entertainment spaces and umpteen historic features. “These authentic features often excite international buyers because they are so unique,” continues Mr Magri. “Houses in the capital can
Photo by Dhalia Real Estate Services
Recently there’s been a surge in demand for property in the capital, Valletta, with local and foreign buyers keen to snag a home within the city’s walls. Here Jo Caruana explores the many reasons why the city built by the Knights of St John ‘for gentlemen and by gentlemen’ is fast becoming a hotspot on the international property radar.
PROPERTY
Living in Valletta Henry Petersen
Photo by Dhalia Real Estate Services
, originally from the Faroe Islands, lives with his Maltese partner Joanna Delia, who runs the Smart Skin Clinic, and their two young children in Valletta. “Joanna already owned this townhouse on St Paul’s Street when we met in 2010, and we have been working on the renovation ever since. We’re thrilled with the work completed so far, which includes crafting an old-meets-new and contemporary space that works for us and our children. When it comes to the main reason I love Valletta, it would definitely be down to its authenticity. I love its history but I believe its best times are still to come.” (Photos by Lionel Galea)
boast all sorts of highlights, including pretty patterned tiles, grand sala nobiles, gargoyles, intricate stonework and magnificent architecture. “I believe the modern architecture currently being built into the city as part of the Renzo Piano project is going to be a fantastic combination. The striking entrance into Valletta will soon stand out as a landmark and give the capital yet another element to be proud of.” Benjamin Tabone Grech, managing director at Engel & Völkers Sara Grech, agrees that Valletta is now giving locals and potential buyers more and more to love about it. “The city is such a strong part of our culture and it has so much to ➜ 27
PROPERTY
Living in Valletta Canadian Jess Gerrow, who runs Malta-focused blog www.blog-jess.com, has lived on the island since 2010 and is now based in Valletta. She explains why she absolutely adores her home in the capital. “As is typical of expats, my husband Mike and I lived happily in Sliema before really discovering Valletta, but we soon realised that no other city anywhere in Europe could compare to it. Nowhere else did we feel instantly content. “So, when our last flat in Sliema was turned into a short-let, we thought: ‘if not now, then when?’
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Photos by Engel & Völkers Sara Grech
offer,” he says. “It blends its small area and centuries of history with contemporary facilities and, now, the international vision of star architect Piano. “Plus, because the amount of real estate within the city’s walls is limited, Valletta is fast becoming an a-list location. In fact, aside from the many main streets and quaint alleys, the city is also home to the most prestigious address anywhere in Malta – St Barbara Bastions.” When it comes to the cost of these properties, there is also a range of budget options to choose from. “Our portfolio includes apartments priced at €100,000, as well as grand palazzos priced at €5million,” says Mr Magri. “We also have a selection of commercial properties on the city’s main streets that are ideal for those keen to open a business ➜
We didn’t know any other ‘foreigners’ living in Valletta and many people warned us against it, but we took the plunge anyway. And we’re kicking ourselves that we didn’t do it four years earlier. “The housing situation in Valletta is unique. It’s no news that about one-third of the buildings in Valletta are derelict, and there are even fewer that are habitable and available to let. But the flats that are available are real gems – unique in a way that nothing in Sliema and its environs can be. When we found ours it was love at first sight: a converted warehouse with beautiful vaulted ceilings, huge windows and old stone floors. It’s a really cheerful house that masterfully blends old and new, and has lots of quirks, sort of like the city itself. “I love a lot of things about living in the city but, first and foremost, it would have to be the people. They are so friendly, warm and helpful, and I feel part of a community. Plus it’s so easy to get around,
and there’s the burgeoning nightlife, the top-notch restaurants that are blossoming throughout the city, and the little glimpses of modern city life sprouting here and there. Valletta has a really good thing going on. In 2014 it feels like the city is on the cusp of becoming something really rare and wonderful, and I feel very lucky to be living here to experience it.”
in an area with lots of footfall. “As a general rule, currently, €400,000-€500,000 will snag you a very nice home or office in Valletta. As it stands, properties here will only increase in value so any investment will be a very good one. This is mainly down to the fact that there are no unused plots in the capital, so, while more spaces may pop up
Photo by Engel & Völkers Sara Grech
to be renovated (such as disused houses or lofts), the amount of property available is going to change very little. I envisage that prices here will increase by about 10 per cent year on year, especially in the run-up to 2018.” With that in mind, rental potential is also very strong in Valletta, with enquiries flooding in for everything from upmarket holiday homes to long-lets. “Yes, the city has gained this strength too, and many of our clients have invested in buy-to-lets, while others are choosing to rent themselves,” adds Mr Magri. Finally, Mr Tabone Grech explains the details of rental potential. “The average annual return for a residential property in Malta is 4.27 per cent, although some properties – including those in Valletta – have reached
Photo by Dhalia Real Estate Services
PROPERTY
in excess of five per cent, which is excellent. And I can only expect this to rise further in the coming years, making buy-tolet in the capital a very viable option for those keen to make a good return,” he concludes.
Valletta for Culture Vultures Aside from attracting property investors, the capital has also become a haven for culture lovers. Here’s our choice of some of the most exciting events taking place in Valletta over the next few weeks. Il-Kantilena Karba ta’ 500 sena, Karba ta’ Żmienna – Manoel Theatre – 5-6 December This evening of song, dance and poetry is ideal if you want to experience the Maltese language in performance. The work revolves around the Kantilena by Pietru Caxaro, the oldest existing poem in Maltese. www.teatrumanoel.com Al Bano Carrisi & Band – Mediterranean Conference Centre – 7-8 December One of Italy’s best-loved singers will perform some of his most popular numbers, including Felicità, Nel Sole, Sharazan, Nostalgia Canaglia and Libertà. The setting is also very special, as this building was originally built by the Knights of St John to house their hospital.
Go Teatru Unplugged – Manoel Theatre – 12-14 December This annual event brings live music to the historic Manoel Theatre. This unique and fast-moving concert consists of six short acts in diverse musical genres including pop, rock and jazz. www.teatrumanoel.com Toi Toi Plays – Manoel Theatre Studio Theatre – 21 December Created for children aged between seven and 11, this creative and comedic performance encourages its young audience to engage with the actors and really get involved. www.teatrumanoel.com
Malta: The Great Story of a Small Island Nation – The National Museum of Archaeology – until 31 December With 100 objects at its centre, this creative exhibition takes you through Malta’s incredible history. www.heritagemalta.org The Valletta National New Year’s Eve Celebration – 31 December This free and annual event attracts thousands of revellers keen to see in the New Year together. Expect a magical atmosphere as 2015 dawns, with plenty of entertainment from top performers, and highlights stretched across the entire capital.
31
PROPERTY
Find your
Valletta property
with Dhalia
V
alletta is quickly becoming a commercial and residential hub for foreigners and locals alike. Here at Dhalia, we realise Valletta’s potential and the array of properties it has to offer. Valletta can accommodate the needs of first time buyers with properties starting from €100,000 and can even cater to those who wish to find a unique property with sea views and traditional Maltese architecture in the price range of €400-500,000. Valletta also boasts some beautiful palazzos including Palazzo Valdina which is currently selling at €3,750,000. Those who wish to buy a commercial space to become part of the fast-paced development happening in the capital city, could find plenty of commercial properties available on the main streets and these properties will only increase in value, particularly due to the current hype about Valletta being chosen as the European Capital of Culture in 2018. Dhalia pays particular attention to Valletta and in an effort to increase our commitment to the capital, we have opened a new
office in the City Gate Arcade by the entrance to Valletta. By doing this, we intend to increase our presence and efficiency for all those people interested in investing or even in renting a property in the city. The rental potential in the city is strong, both for long and short lets. Moreover, the city has renovated a number of old houses of character and changed them into luxurious and
unique boutique hotels – small hotels with a distinct character and charm. All these options are available for people interesting in finding a residence or starting a business in Valletta and we strive to help you find the perfect property. Visit our office today at the City Gate Arcade or call for an appointment on 2122 4920. 33
MUST VISIT
Valletta Living History Valletta Living History is a high definition multi-lingual audio-visual show depicting the history, culture and lifestyle of Malta and the Maltese, showing everyday at the Embassy Complex in the heart of Valletta. Relive the Great Siege between the brave Knights and fierce Ottomans, the French and British rule, and World War II till today. Many recommend it as the best first stop when visiting Valletta. Open seven days a week with shows at 10, 10.45, 11.30am, 12.15, 1, 1.45, 2.30 and 3.15pm. Valletta Living History, Level 2, The Embassy Complex, St Lucia Street, Valletta. T: 2722 0071; W: www.maltaattraction.com
MDINA EXPERIENCE Take an unforgettable 30 minutes to experience Mdina’s fascinating journey through time. Relive Mdina’s 7,000 years of tragedy and triumph. The cult of the mother goddess, the shipwreck of St Paul, the medieval city half destroyed by an earthquake and gloriously rebuilt, Mdina defended by the fighting spirit of the Knights of St John – The Mdina Experience traces the fascinating story, thousands of years back. Open seven days a week from 10am to 4.30pm. Available in 12 languages. Mdina Experience, 7, Mesquita Square, Mdina. T: 2145 4322/2145 0055; E: info@themdinaexperience.com
KNIGHTS OF MALTA The Knights of Malta is a unique series of expertly captured scenes from the original tales of the life and times of the Crusader Knights. Discover how in 1530, Grand Master L’Isle Adam entered the gates of the fortified city. An extraordinary achievement that depicts the energy of those who lived, fought and died in bygone centuries. Open seven days a week from 10am to 5pm. Available in 13 languages. 14/19, Casa Magazzini, Magazines Street, Mdina. T: 2145 1342; E: info@themdinaexperience.com Promotional Christmas offer – kindly ask for your special offer on block tickets.
35
HERITAGE
The Roman
Inquisition in Malta
Inquisitor’s Palace, Vittoriosa: 18 September 2014-11 January 2015 What is the Roman Inquisition? Established in 1542 the Roman Inquisition differed from the Medieval or Spanish Inquisition. It was an institution championed by a congregation of cardinals in Rome who appointed officials with judicial and investigative powers for the eradication of heresy and other beliefs and practices contrary to the Catholic faith. This institution was commonly known as the Roman Inquisition or the Holy Office.
Inquisitor and Apostolic Delegate to take up residence at the Inquisitor’s Palace in Birgu, as did his successors up to the abolition of the Inquisition from Malta in 1798.
Who were the Inquisitors? Following 1574 all 61 Inquisitors were Italian, generally young learned people of noble birth, in Malta for the short term to mark the beginnings
of a notable ecclesiastic career. Over 20 of these became cardinals, two of whom were subsequently consecrated to papacy. Accustomed to the splendours of Italian life most did their best to infuse taste and lustre to palace life.
What about the Inquisitor’s Palace? As guardians of faith and papal envoys, Inquisitors were expected to appear holy, righteous, cultured and powerful. This was their public ➜
How did it reach Malta? So as to counter the spread of contaminated theories as introduced by the Knights of the Order of St John in Malta, Pope Pius IV established the Roman Inquisition in Malta on 21st October 1561. No inquisitor was sent from Rome at first. The inquisitorial powers were vested in the islands’ Bishop until 1574 when Pope Gregory XIII decided to start appointing a dedicated official to serve as supreme judge of the Holy Office and Apostolic Delegate, representing the Pope and the Apostolic See in Malta. Pietro Dusina was the first 37
HERITAGE image and the palace was their theatre. Over the centuries Inquisitors maximised the resources at their disposal to transform a medieval building into a baroque ‘palazzo Romano’ inclusive of a tribunal and an austere prison complex. Today the Inquisitor’s Palace in Birgu is the only Inquisitor’s Palace still open to the public worldwide.
Who were the accused? In its suppression of heresy in all its forms, the Inquisition prosecuted against the abuse of sacraments, possession of prohibited books, magical activities and superstitious remedies, heretical opinion, blasphemy and profanation of the sacred, among others. Around 1600 Didacus Mifsud was charged by the Inquisitor for making use of a magical paper hat with Arab script as a remedy for his headache. Between 1614 and 1619 a convict Grazio Laura was publicly whipped after throwing stones at an image of the Holy Family. In 1658 two Quaker missionaries Katherine Evans and Sarah Cheevers were arrested for spreading Protestantism. In 1611 the Conventual Chaplain and Bishop-to-be Fra Baldassare Cagliares was sentenced to a period of confinement in his Valletta residence after speaking in contempt of the Inquisitorial Tribunal. In a complicated three-year case between 1625 and 1628, 40 38
Maltese witches were arrested and trialled separately for use of magic spells and love witchcraft.
What were the punishments imposed? Was torture inflicted? Torture was not a sanction in itself, but a means to extract truth during trial. Although rarely inflicted it was applied following strict rules and after considerate guidance. Around 10 per cent of cases were sanctioned with corporal punishment containing an element of shame to make up for the harms committed. This included kneeling or whipping in public, rowing on galleys, nursing in hospital, work on fortifications and imprisonment. The great majority of sentences were of a spiritual nature, meant to cure the spirit of the condemned. These included the recital of prayers, frequenting the sacraments and pilgrimages generally to Marian shrines. How do we know all this? Luckily the Inquisitorial Archives have survived practically intact.
These are just very few of the curiosities which have come alive through The Roman Inquisition in Malta, an unprecedented temporary exhibition illustrating the role and significance of the Inquisition in Malta. Insights of palace life and stories of witchcraft, magical spells, theft and profanation of the sacred and a myriad other curious episodes from the past unfold through an engaging display of 90 authentic artefacts, complemented by audiovisuals, 3D reconstructions, projections and a fresh interpretation provision. This exhibition is on till 11th January 2015 and is being organised by Heritage Malta with the support of the Metropolitan Chapter, the University of Malta, the Vatican archives of the Congregazione per la Dottrina della Fede, the Malta Study Centre and APS Bank. Readers are invited to like the Inquisitor’s Palace Facebook fan page (facebook.com/inquisitorspalace) to keep abreast with all the curiosities and outreach initiatives related to this exhibition. Inquisitors Palace, Main Gate Street, Birgu. T: 2182 7006. Open: 9am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm) Mon-Sun. Closed on 24, 25 & 31 December, 1 January.
TRADITIONS Photo by Aaron Briffa - viewingmalta.com
The Maltese Christmas of old
M
uch like the rest of the customs of the Maltese, the celebration of Christmas in Malta features a mishmash of local traditions and foreign influences brought over by different rulers throughout its long history. While many of the things we associate with Christmas today, like Christmas trees and Father Christmas, are found the world over, renowned octogenarian historian Guido Lanfranco tells of a very different Christmas in the past, even in his own lifetime. Sarah Micallef learns about the Maltese Christmas of old.
FOOD “In the old days,” Guido Lanfranco says, “most people were poor. They didn’t put up decorations for Christmas – but they would attend midnight Mass on Christmas Eve, which is at the centre of the Christmas liturgy.” While it was tradition at the time to fast before mass, he recalls, afterwards, people would eat meals made from products that 40
were in abundance at the time, such as imbuljuta tal-qastan – a traditional Maltese drink made from chestnuts. “Chestnuts were used in a lot of recipes around Christmas time – they date back to before the British brought potatoes to Malta, during the time of the Order of St John. Chestnuts were used instead of flour as a thickening agent in soups
and sweets, and were also roasted on the fire, with a cross cut across the shell to make them easier to peel,” he says.
GIFTS Like adults, children were made to fast in the days preceding major feasts like Christmas in the past. As a reward for fasting, Mr Lanfranco explains, “their parents would tell them that Jesus would
TRADITIONS send them a gift, which they would find under their pillow or bed on Christmas Day – nowadays it’s Father Christmas who brings the gifts!” They would also do this for other major feasts, for example, “in November the church celebrates the feast of St Martin, for which the children were also made to fast. As a gift for fasting, they would be given a bag full of seasonal fruits and sweets, known as il-borża ta’ San Martin – this tradition is still followed today, although most people have forgotten the reason behind it.” Asked what Christmas gifts children would tend to be given, Mr Lanfranco reveals that they were a far cry from the gifts children receive today. “Most people would not buy gifts because they were poor, so gifts were mostly handmade. They consisted of home-made biscuits and pastries using honey and nuts – hazelnuts, almonds and chestnuts mainly, which would be in season. Hazelnuts were particularly
popular, because since they are round, the children would use them as marbles and play games. In fact, many of the games children play with glass marbles today were played using hazelnuts in the past.” People would also make gifts using recycled materials they found at home. “For boys, for example, friends or relatives who were good with their hands would make wooden toys like a horse and carriage. Common gifts for girls would be things to put in dolls’ houses, a wooden bed for their doll, or even dolls made out of wood and rags. Depending on what they were good at and what trades they knew, there were also those who would paint or embroider the doll’s face.”
times were largely entertainment organised by the Church – that is where people would go to listen to music, see some decorations and meet people.” Then, towards the beginning of the 20th century, Dun Ġorġ Preca – who in 2006 was proclaimed the second Maltese Catholic saint after Saint Publius – founded the Society of Christian Doctrine, which started organising Christmas activities for children. “These became very popular as there was very little other entertainment for children at the time. It was then that the traditional children’s Christmas procession began, as well as Christmas carol singing in Maltese and Italian,” he says.
ENTERTAINMENT While we’re truly spoilt for choice with any number of Christmas events and parties to attend throughout the month of December nowadays, this wasn’t always the case. According to Mr Lanfranco, “activities in olden
THE CRIB Being a Catholic country, during the Christmas season, you’re likely to find a good number of exhibited nativity scenes or cribs, as well as ‘living cribs’ featuring real people and animals throughout Malta. ➜
41
TRADITIONS
Photo by Mario Galea - viewingmalta.com
In a traditional crib, the baby Jesus figurine is often bigger than the others, as it is the principal figure for which the crib is made. Mr Lanfranco sheds light on the materials used to make these figurines (or pasturi in Maltese), explaining, “older variants of the baby Jesus were made of wax so as to be different to the other figurines – the texture of wax reflects light and looks almost shiny, which is appropriate. Figurines were made out of clay, wood and papiermâché in the past, while nowadays most are made of plastic.” You can still find plaster and clay figurines today, he adds, though these are rarer, more fragile and expensive. Apart from the principal characters of Jesus, Mary and Joseph, there are a number of other standard figurines you can expect to find in a traditional crib. Among them are the cow and the donkey. Interestingly, Mr Lanfranco maintains, “as far as I know, it is just the Maltese that 42
use the cow instead of the bull. The donkey is a symbol of diligence while the cow was very much a part of the Maltese way of life back then – many people would keep a cow or a goat at their home or farm for its milk.” He goes on to mention a number of other characters: “located somewhere above the cave, you would find a figure known as ix-xabbatur (the climber) who would be trying to get a good vantage point – this figure represents the people who had heard about the birth of Jesus, and wanted to know more about it. There would also be ir-rieqed (the sleeper), who represents those who didn’t know that Christ was born – not because they weren’t interested, but because they hadn’t heard. Among other figurines, there are also the shepherds (rgħajja), and two figures that appear to be singing together known as ix-xriek, representing togetherness.” As part of the crib setting in Malta, you will also see shallow pots
of earth planted with wheat and vetch (known as ġulbiena). According to Mr Lanfranco, “this practice is a remnant related to the mythological figure of Adonis, who was said to have grown out of the earth. Historically, it is a symbol of something that is born anew, which is why the wheat and vetch used to be planted around the crib.” While the symbolism behind this practice has been lost to many nowadays, the tradition still holds to plant these wheat and vetch seeds during the feast of the Immaculate Conception on 8th December, in order for them to have grown by the time Christmas Day rolls around.
SUPERSTITIONS The Maltese of old were a superstitious bunch, and as Mr Lanfranco recalls, one particular superstition was tied to Christmas Eve. “There was a superstition that said that babies should not be born on Christmas Eve, close to midnight. It was ➜
TRADITIONS considered a bad omen, as it detracts attention from the birth of Christ, which is what Christmas is all about.” Because of this belief, it was said that “babies that were born at midnight or close to midnight on Christmas Eve, as a punishment, would turn into a ‘monster of the night’, which they used to call il-gawgaw, and wander about frightening people with their groaning every Christmas Eve night.” To prevent children who were born on the 24th December from turning into this monster, parents would keep them awake till after midnight by occupying them with games and chores.
GREETING CARDS Despite greeting cards falling out of favour due to electronic cards
today, Mr Lanfranco expresses a preference for the traditional handwritten card, which he considers more personal. Yet these greeting cards, he maintains, were not always tied to Christmas as such. “Towards the beginning of the 19th century, people didn’t used to send Christmas cards; they would send New Year greetings. Businessmen and affluent families would send visiting cards, which would also feature a New Year greeting.” Drawing from his own memory, he recalls, “before the Second World War, scrapbooking was very popular, as people used to spend lots of time at home, and this was before television and radio. You would buy a sheet with images of angels and other decorations, which you could cut out to make your own card.”
Don’t miss Guido Lanfranco’s Christmas recommendations
“There is a lot to see during Christmas time in Malta. All the streets and shops are decorated, and toy shops and bazaars are full of toys and novelties for Christmas. Apart from this several Christmas parties are organised, and a number of exhibitions and cribs are set up. I would recommend exploring these attractions at your own pace. Sometimes, tours and activities organised for tourists have restrictive programmes – and as a result, you don’t get the full experience. It is best to be free to explore the different attractions available.”
TAKE NOTE
Malata Situated in the heart of Valletta, opposite the Grand Master’s Palace, Malata Restaurant serves the finest in French and Mediterranean cuisine. In winter the 500-year-old cellar, with its vaulted ceiling, hosts up to 42 covers and is cosy and candlelit. The walls are decorated with fascinating memorabilia and amusing caricatures of politicians past and present. In summer and for as long as the weather holds, lunch and dinner are served al fresco on the large terrace. Weather permitting live jazz bands play every Tuesday outside on the terrace. Free bottle of wine on presentation of this advert.
Open: noon-2.30pm, 7-11pm Mon-Sat; noon-3pm Sun. T: 2123 3967; M: 7942 7569; E: info@malatamalta.com; W: www.malatamalta.com Malata, Palace Square, Valletta.
7,000 years of history brought to life
Located in Malta’s capital city, Valletta, housed within what was once the Sacra Infermeria of the Knights of Malta is The Malta Experience. This audio-visual spectacular is one of the largest attractions in Europe in terms of duration, system and language commentaries. It is also the only show that retraces 7,000 years of Maltese history. The 45-minute presentation can be listened to in one of 17 languages. In a purposely built auditorium, with a panoramic screen, sensational vision and a gripping commentary, The Malta Experience brings 7,000 years of history back to life. The show is undoubtedly worth a visit for anyone interested in Malta’s unique history. Moreover it is an ideal reference guide for the island’s places of interest. So why not make it your first stop and let Malta’s treasures unfold before your eyes? Shows are every hour on the hour as follows: Monday to
Friday from 11am to 4pm; Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays from 11am to 2pm. Quote ‘Guide Me’ at the ticketing counter to claim your 15 per cent discount on the entrance fee (not valid with any other offer). Ask for a combined ticket which also includes a guided tour of The Sacra Infermeria – The Old Hospital of the Knights of St John.
The Malta Experience St Elmo Bastions, Mediterranean Street, Valletta. T: 2124 3776; W: www.themaltaexperience.com 45
CULTURE
Valletta International
Baroque Festival
2O15 10-24 January 2015
B
ooking for the Valletta International Baroque Festival 2015 is well underway. The success of the Baroque Festival on the international cultural stage is evidenced by the growing interest from tour operators who are bringing in more overseas visitors specifically for this event. It is, therefore, advisable to book early for the 2015 Festival as some events are already close to being sold out. With 21 events over 15 days in 7 venues the 2015 version builds on the success of the first two. The 2015 Festival is dedicated to the memory of Maltese composer Geronimo Abos as 2015 is the tercentennial anniversary of his birth. His music will be performed by Die Kölner Akademie, Passacaglia Ensemble (which features some of the UK’s leading period instrument players) and the Valletta International Baroque Ensemble. The Orchestra of the Age of Enlightenment returns to perform the glorious Bach Passion according to St John in St John’s Co-Cathedral which will be offset by Michelangelo Falvetti’s magnificent ‘Il Diluvio Universale’, performed by the Cappella Mediterranea under the baton of Leonardo Garcia Alarcon at St Publius Church in Floriana, a new addition
to the list of venues for 2015. The Malta Philharmonic Orchestra, conducted by Peter Stark, will present an innovative programme of 20th century works inspired by the baroque which includes a flute concerto by Lukas Foss performed by the Orchestra’s own flautist Rebecca Hall. The Festival programme also includes music ranging from baroque piano transcriptions of music by Bach, Handel and Gluck performed by Dmytro Sukhovienko to sacred and profane baroque music from the Americas performed by Ensemble Villancico and Handel concert arias presented by Robert King conducting
The King’s Consort and countertenor Iestyn Davies. Bach features strongly in this Festival; his cello suites are performed by the world-renowned Sigiswald Kuijken who will play on that rare instrument a violoncello da spalla and his Goldberg Variations by local pianist Joanne Camilleri. The European Union Baroque Ensemble will perform music by Handel and his London friends, and the Festival’s resident ensemble, the Valletta International Baroque Ensemble (VIBE) will perform at two concerts. The Festival also includes events specifically for children and culminates with the Baroque Festival Ball which will be held in Teatru Manoel.
To book: www.vallettainternationalbaroque.com.mt or www.teatrumanoel.com.mt For further information consult the festival website www.vallettabaroquefestival.com.mt
47
FASHION
TOP
TRENDS
The
perfect party
Neiman Marcus
outfit
I
t’s the time of year to up the glamour stakes and hit the town for some festive celebrations. Sarah Micallef discovers the best fashion picks this party season. Marks & Spencer Per Una
With party season soon upon us, it’s time we set our sights on finding that perfect party outfit – whether we’re dressing for a formal dinner, work do, or a night on the dancefloor. Taking our cue from autumn/winter trends this year, party season styling is set to feature eyecatching patterns like animal print, some sex appeal thanks to sheer fabrics, as well as a sophisticated edge with structured shapes and silhouettes. Apart from this, the festive season is not truly festive without some sparkle and shine. Year in, year out, bejewelled textiles, statement jewellery and sparkling accessories make their way into the limelight at this time of year – after all nothing says celebration like a disco ball, does it?
Art Deco Harking back to the days that saw the most extravagant parties, 1920s-style party dressing seems very appropriate indeed. Look out for details like scalloped edging, angel sleeves, drop waists and beaded detailing – you’ll soon look ready to hit the kind of legendary party the Great Gatsby himself was wont to throw! One word of advice to bring this look to the modern day: pair with sleek and chic hair and make-up for a contemporary air of sophistication. Embellishment Christmas is definitely the season for embellishment. And with everything from our homes to shop windows and roundabouts receiving a generous dash of festive frosting, so should our wardrobes! There are lots of ways in which you can add some sparkle to your look, be it with metallic or embellished fabrics or via some show-stopping statement jewellery. ➜ 49
FASHION Dramatic Tones Deep autumnal colours add drama to an outfit, and look beautiful against our paler complexions at this time of the year. Purple is set to be huge this festive season, while other sumptuous alternatives to black include inky blue and burgundy. Offset these dramatic tones with a chunky piece of jewellery like a collar necklace or bejewelled cuff for maximum impact. Fifties Silhouette Full-skirted skirts and dresses are really having a moment this party season, giving fitted bodycon styles a run for their money among fashionistas. If you’re going for a lot of volume on the bottom, be sure to counterbalance with a fitted and minimal top. Same goes for your hair – a classic chignon and delicate earrings paired with a sophisticated polo neck will ensure all the attention remains on the skirt.
Alice + Olivia
OUTFIT
IDEAS
Neiman Marcus
Tired of dresses but need a little inspiration? These are just a few of the outfit ideas you can try.
Office to bar Heading out for drinks with your colleagues after work, or off to meet some friends but no time to pop home to change? Try swapping your blazer with a bomber jacket to give your outfit a relaxed, nighttime feel. Slick on some lip colour, throw on some platforms and accessorize with a cross body bag.
Family dinner Absolutely love a good seasonal sweater but haven’t a clue what to pair it with? Turn your Christmas jumper into a fashion statement by adding some shine in the form of a sequined skirt. Team with opaque tights and cute pumps or ankle boots to keep it cool and comfy. ➜
Alice + Olivia Anton Heunis
51
FASHION
Wheretoshop Valletta Aside from its beautiful architecture and rich history, Valletta is also great for a spot of shopping. Get swept up in the Christmas spirit as you explore the mix of local outlets and foreign brands that line its decorated pedestrian streets before stopping for a warm drink and a spot of people watching at one of the numerous cafés.
Night on the town The crop top and matching skirt combo continue to dominate this season, with high-shine, embellished and metallic variants taking centre stage. Go for a pencil or A-line skirt with a cropped shell top in the same fabric, and for some added zing, team with platforms and an eye-catching clutch bag.
Sliema The top place to shop in Malta is undoubtedly Sliema. Boasting both high street and designer brands along its main shopping streets, as well as two of the island’s largest shopping centres, you’ll be spoiled for choice here, and could even get some Christmas shopping done while you’re at it! St Julian’s Across the road from the highend Portomaso is home to various designer shops targeting the more exclusive shopper – perfect for finding that special party frock. There is also a large shopping mall, comprising a number of both high street and more upmarket brands.
Don’t miss: Republic Street, Merchants Street and The Embassy Complex Don’t miss: Bisazza Street, Tower Road, The Plaza Shopping Centre and The Point Shopping Mall Don’t miss: Bay Street Shopping Complex and Portomaso
FASHION
T H E O R IG IN AL AM ERI CA N B RA ND
Brooks brothers unveils
new flagship store in valletta
Brooks Brothers, America’s oldest apparel brand, Vella PLC. “We are proud to introduce this brand here recently announced the opening of its newest retail as we know it will be appreciated in the market.” location in Valletta, Malta. This location becomes At 160 square metres, on the three floors of a beautiful the 54th Brooks Brothers store to open in Europe. restored building in Malta, the new store located next to Brooks Brothers entered the Maltese market in the well-known Cordina coffee shop, takes inspiration partnership with SMG-Mode Ltd, a subsidiary of HalMann from the brand’s nearly 100-year-old flagship store located Vella Group PLC, founded at 346, Madison Avenue by Vincent Vella. in New York City. ABOUT BROOKS BROTHERS “We are proud to The store showcases the Brooks Brothers is not only a clothing brand; it has become open our first store in La latest men’s and women’s part of the American narrative. The brand has the distinction Valletta and to expand our collection, and the newly of outfitting 39 of the 44 Presidents of the United States. It brand in the Republic of launched Red Fleece label, was a favourite of some of the country’s greatest cultural icons such as F. Scott Fitzgerald, Clark Gable, Andy Warhol Malta,” said Luca Gastaldi, a youthful expression of the and Katherine Hepburn. The company continues to dress Brooks Brothers EMEA company’s familiar classics. many of today’s leading celebrities as well as collaborates CEO. “Our presence Furniture and furnishings on costumes for TV and cinema’s biggest productions in the EMEA region in light cherry and oak such as the Emmy winning drama Mad Men, and recently is growing constantly floors, and an elegant and partnered with costume designer Catherine Martin to and at a fast pace, and stylish ambience create create all of the menswear for Baz Lurhman’s The Great represents another step in a truly unique shopping Gatsby, which won the Oscar in February 2014 for Best Costume Design. In June 2014, Brooks Brothers signed our global expansion.” environment in keeping with Zac Posen as Creative Director for the retailer’s signature “Brooks Brothers is Brooks Brothers’ heritage. Women’s Collection and Accessories. Zac Posen’s first a legendary American women’s collection will debut in Spring 2016 and will be brand known throughout Brooks Brothers, 243, available worldwide. the world,” said Martin Republic Street, Valletta. Vella, Managing T: 2122 1644. Opening Find us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/ Director of Halmann hours: 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. brooksbrothers and follow us on Twitter @brooksbrothers
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WHERE TO SPEND IT
Bay Street Complex
BOSS Stores Malta
In the heart of St Julian’s, Bay Street is a shopping and leisure complex with more than 60 shops ranging from high street fashion to designerwear, jewellery and shoes, sportswear and electronic equipment, music and software, perfumes and other speciality shops; and in between all the shopping, a variety of cafés, restaurants and bars provide a much needed break. Bay Street Complex also boasts a specialised artisan market and a large games room, and hosts several events and attractions.
For Winter 2014 Boss takes a journey to the Nordic capitals, to define a new easiness. Scandinavian timelessness is blended with BOSS’ finest components. Modern minimalism meets casual details. BOSS filters the DNA of the Nordic style: it’s about a meticulous dress code without trying too hard.
It is the only complex in Malta where shops open from 10am till 10pm, and catering and entertainment establishments open till late.
This latest menswear collection – casual and formalwear – is now available at the BOSS Stores Malta of St Julian’s tand the Departures Lounge, Luqa Airport. Festive Season Opening hours: Monday to Sunday 10am-8pm. Call 2202 1000 for further information.
Your Shopping
destination of choice
Since its inception in March 2010, The Point – the largest shopping mall in Malta – has succeeded in firmly establishing itself as the shopping destination of choice on the island. The Point has been innovative and bold in its strategy and marketing campaigns, giving customers an unprecedented shopping experience and becoming a popular destination for all the family. The wide variety of top brands, comfortable ambience, ease of access and ample availability of parking spaces are only some of the components that helped The Point to achieve its success. Always customer-centric, the team at The Point manages to put together a vast calendar of events targeting various age groups and tastes. Competitions and offers are also available from various outlets and the mall itself on a regular basis. The Point Shopping Mall offers an experience like no other for customers who are looking for a good mix of outlets within any budget!
For a full calendar of events visit www.thepointmalta.com and The Point’s Facebook Page www.facebook.com/ThePointShoppingMall
57
GOZO
Christmas in Gozo
Bethlehem f’Għajnsielem, 2014
F
rom live nativity cribs to a host of Christmas-themed markets and activities, there is no shortage of things to see and do around the festive season in the little island of Gozo. Martina Said discusses the events that are not to be missed.
Baby Jesus – Mużew ta’ Karmni Grima, Għarb
58
A live crib Now in its sixth edition, the annual Bethlehem f ’Għajnsielem is an animated nativity village which offers a realistic reproduction of the environment of Bethlehem and the timeless story of the nativity at Ta’ Passi fields in Għajnsielem (close to the Mġarr Harbour). During the month of December, the nativity
village is brought to life through reenactments performed by around 150 actors, including recently born babies, creating a genuinely unique experience. Visitors can witness shepherds inhabiting caves, animals roaming enclosed spaces, horses turning mills and villagers going about their day-to-day duties. This year, on 5th December at 6pm, a contingent will be leaving the village of
GOZO Għarb and make its way to Republic Street in Victoria, where street lights will be officially inaugurated by the Minister for Gozo, Anton Refalo. On 6th December, the live crib will be inaugurated by the President of Malta Marie Louise Coleiro Preca at 5.30pm. The crib will continue to be displayed until 4th January 2015. The live crib will be animated on the following days: DECEMBER 2014 Saturday 6th Sunday 7th Monday 8th Saturday 13th Sunday 14th Wednesday 17th Thursday 18th Saturday 20th Sunday 21st Thursday 25th Friday 26th Saturday 27th Sunday 28th
4.30pm-9.00pm 2.30pm-7.30pm 2.30pm-7.30pm 4.30pm-8.30pm 2.30pm-7.30pm 9.30am-1.30pm 9.30am-1.30pm 4.30pm-8.30pm 2.30pm-7.30pm 3.30pm-8.00pm 4.30pm-7.30pm 4.30pm-8.30pm 2.30pm-7.30pm
JANUARY 2015 Thursday 1st Saturday 3rd Sunday 4th
3.00pm-8.00pm 4.30pm-8.00pm 2.00pm-8.00pm
It’s their feast! MUSEUM Nadur
Gozitano Agricultural Village The Gozitano Agricultural Village in Xewkija will be hosting a series of events and activities for two weekends in December. Music and food stalls offering the locally produced Gozitan beer Lord Chambray, an impressive selection of local and foreign wines, as well as traditional Christmas delicacies are expected to transform the site. Appreciators of all-things chocolate should not miss the opportunity to view a crib made entirely of chocolate organised by the Institute of Tourism, and whilst you’re at it, take a minute
Traditional Christmas procession, Nadur
to view two exhibitions also set up during this time – one by various artists depicting a Nativity Theme, curated by Paul Stellini, and a photography exhibition, Palestina: A reality in photos, curated by Elaine Zammit Haber. The event will take place between 12th to 14th, and 19th to 21st December.
A kid’s world Dinja tat-tfal, a children’s fun park at the Gozo Sports Complex in Victoria, will give children the opportunity to meet their favourite Disney characters and enjoy a range of activities such as rock climbs, merry-go-rounds, bouncy castles, train, pony and rodeo rides. The event is being organised by the Ministry of Gozo, Christmas in Gozo Committee in collaboration with Buzzy Kids Entertainment, Abraham’s, All Care Insurance Agency, Arkadia, Calypso Trains, David’s Bakery and The Duke, between 19th and 21st December. On 13th and 14th December, students from various schools and parishes will also be exhibiting their talent at Villa Rundle in Victoria. ➜ 59
GOZO peasant who resided in the village of Għarb, and whose mystical religious experience led to the construction of the church of Our Lady of Ta’ Pinu. An exhibition of artisan cribs will also be on display in the main exhibition hall at the Ministry of Gozo in Victoria, together with a permanent exhibition of cribs in Republic Street, Victoria.
Nativity crib in Gozo
The artisan market St George’s Square, located at the centre of Gozo’s capital city of Victoria, experiences a complete change of scene between 12th and 14th December, as a series of wooden huts offering a wide range of merchandise related to Christmas are set up in the square, offering the ultimate festive feeling. A range of products made by talented artisans, including a variety of hand-made Christmas decorations, cribs, crafted items and seasonal foods are available for purchase. Children can enjoy a daily spot of storytelling, while visitors of all ages can take in various entertaining acts set to take place throughout the three days. This artisan market perfectly encompasses the festive spirit that we seek at this time of year – a stroll around the stalls, a bite to eat and a special gift to take home. 60
All the cribs Nativity cribs form a big part of the religious celebration of Christmas in Gozo. The Karmni Grima Museum (that forms part of the Ta’ Pinu National Shrine Complex in Għarb) will be open during the month of December, exhibiting a unique crib dating back to the 1900s which belonged to Karmni Grima, a Maltese
Choir concerts and New Year’s Eve A series of choir concerts will be taking place throughout the month of December that are sure to suit a variety of musical tastes – Carols by Candle Light by the Schola Cantorum Jubilate at St Augustine’s Church, Victoria on 5th and 6th December; Chorus Urbanus at St George’s Basilica, Victoria on 20th December; Venite Adoremus – St Cecilia Choir at St Francis Church, Victoria on 27th December; Puer Natus Est at the Xagħra Parish church on 28th December and a children’s concert at Nadur Parish church on 25th December. A New Year’s Eve concert will also be held at St Augustine Square in the capital – admission is free and is being organised by the Victoria Local Council. Festivities will be underway from 10pm. ➜ Puer Natus Est, Xagħra
GOZO Midnight mass Every Christmas Eve, the parish church of every town and village celebrates midnight Mass, marked by the presence of a young child who recites a sermon narrating the birth of Christ. The child must learn the sermon by heart and preach it in front of a gathered congregation – a tradition that continues to be popular year after year, proven by the flocks of faithful followers that pack churches all over the islands. All churches are beautifully decorated during advent, some more ornately than others, with nativity cribs, flower arrangements, hanging crimson damask and vetch seeds (ġulbiena) around the altar and crib. The seeds are sown at the beginning of December and left to grow in a dark cupboard for a few weeks, where they shoot up and remain completely white in colour. Midnight Mass will be celebrated at the Gozo cathedral by Bishop Mario Grech, and at most parishes across the island, and a number of processions will also take place in different villages around Gozo. Arrival of the Three Kings The Three Kings, or the Magi, who figure regularly in the Nativity story, will be travelling from Italy to participate in Bethlehem f ’Għajnsielem alongside other actors at the live crib. Preparation for the event requires the magi to travel from Tolfa, an Italian town which is twinned with Għajnsielem, to Mellieħa in Malta before making a triumphant entrance into Bethlehem f ’Għajnsielem on 4th January 2015.
Rigal lil Ġesu Bambin (Gift to Baby Jesus), Nadur
Christmas Concert by Chorus Urbanus, St George’s Basilica, Victoria
Nativity cribs in Gozo
Rigal lil Ġesu Bambin (Gift to Baby Jesus), Nadur
63
CUISINE
Timpana
For the love of
Maltese
food
B Stuffat tal-fenek - viewingmalta.com
There are things we seek during the winter months that remain unchanged year after year. Besides woolly jumpers, thick socks and (since very recently) incredibly warm onesies, we turn to hearty winter meals to warm us from the inside out – and they tend to do the job better than anything else. A good number of traditional meals are easy to come across at
this time of year, as they are packed with seasonal vegetables that grow in abundance during the colder months, namely cabbages, spinach, cauliflower, marrows, carrots and potatoes. They are also the kinds of meals that were cooked on a day-to-day basis by the matriarch of large families in times gone by, when vegetables were grown in great quantities in the family fields.
e it a generous portion of our wholesome soppa ta’ l-armla or a thick wedge of delicious timpana, there is one thing that you can count on with Maltese cooking: it’s delicious. Martina Said delves into a host of popular local dishes best enjoyed during the winter months. In recent years, there’s been something of a revival in Maltese restaurants preparing typically local dishes, but some old recipes have fallen by the wayside, the reason being, according to renowned chef and TV programme presenter Gloria Mizzi, that they require long, slow cooking, which is something modern-day life no longer really affords. ➜
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CUISINE
Braġjoli
“Many soups and stews were cooked on a low fire for a few hours, such as our minestra (vegetable soup) which is packed with a variety of winter vegetables and pulses,” explains Gloria. “Slow cooking was the only method they used because a stove was the only cooking appliance that they had back in the day – there were no ovens or gas cookers, and it takes time to cook now, let alone back then. Some families would even take their special Sunday lunch to be cooked in the local baker’s oven, but that was considered a special treat.” Among the more popular soup meals, that were purposely filling enough to suffice as a one-plate meal, are soppa ta’ l-armla (widow’s soup) and kusksu bil-ful (small pasta beads with broad beans). Both these dishes are served hot and are rather filling, making them ideal meals for winter. Soppa ta’ l-armla is served with a poached egg and a fresh cheeselet per person, while the kusksu bil-ful requires fresh peas and broad beans which are in season in January, together with onions, tomato paste, some cauliflower, a fresh cheeselet and small pasta beads. “Another traditional soup which is harder to come across in local 66
restaurants because it is no longer as popular as it used to be is kawlata, a vegetable soup with pieces of pork in it,” says Gloria. Some families would chop the meat up in the soup and serve it as a one plate meal, while others would remove the meat after it would have released its juices into the soup and serve the meat as a second plate with potatoes and seasonal vegetables. Just like minestra, this soup also requires long, slow cooking, but since the invention of the pressure cooker, cooking time could be reduced by half. “Chicken and beef broths are also popular in winter, mainly because
they are too hot to enjoy in summer. Often, when beef broth was made, with the addition of little pasta beads, they would remove the meat and make it into pulpetti (meatballs) as a second plate, or serve the meat as it cooked in the broth. Similarly, you would get two plates out of one pot. One must also not forget the accompanying bread; nothing beats warm Maltese ftira with butter.” A traditional dish which is still widely available at local eateries is stuffat tal-fenek (rabbit stew), followed by stuffat tal-majjal (pork stew) and other stew varieties including stuffat tal-bebbux (snails stew). “People have different methods of cooking rabbit,” says Gloria, “but it is typically fried in garlic and onions, and served as a stew with potatoes and peas. Rabbit was and remained a favourite because many families used to rear their own. Families were larger in the past, and they would add pork belly to the mixture to add some fat to it, because rabbit contains very little fat, and would serve each plate with a piece of rabbit and piece of pork, enough for everyone in the family to eat from.” ➜
Ftira
CUISINE While pork stew is still a local favourite, made with carrots, peas and potatoes, roast pork with potatoes remains a Sunday lunch delicacy and makes for an unbeatable family meal. Gloria says pork roast used to be a special treat, and became more common when households got their own ovens installed and could roast their own food rather than take it to the local baker. “The pork thigh or shoulder is most commonly used for a roast, although I prefer the loin for this dish. Recipes vary significantly from village to village, but serving the meat with Maltese roast potatoes (patata fil-forn) is an absolute must – the potatoes are cut in thick slices and layered in a dish, together with onions, water and fennel seeds.” The result is absolutely mouth-watering, and typically associated with ‘grandma’s cooking’ which, most times, is hard to beat. One of Gloria’s personal favourite traditional dishes is the classic timpana, which resembles imqarrun il-forn (baked macaroni), but is enclosed in a layer of pastry, top and bottom. “I would say the Maltese pasta of choice was mainly macaroni, and was typically made into a
Minestra
baked pasta dish. Spaghetti is not our speciality, and pasta dishes, apart from timpana and imqarrun il-forn, were not cooked very frequently in the past. Nowadays, however, all types are available to buy in supermarkets and the variety of pasta dishes in restaurants is also varied. Timpana is ideal for winter – it is wholesome, filling and very tasty, but must be done the traditional way, with pieces of hardboiled egg and chicken liver.”
Patata fil-forn
Ross il-forn (baked rice), which resembles imqarrun il-forn, except rice is used instead of pasta, is another local speciality that may be easier to find in restaurants that serve Maltese cuisine or traditional dishes. “I maintain that a proper Maltese recipe, however, is done with tomato paste (kunserva) and not with tomato purée, as the latter did not exist at the time – for my timpana and baked rice, I always use tomato paste.” ➜
Soppa ta’ l-armla
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CUISINE Gloria considers a resurgence of traditional dishes in restaurant menus to be a positive change: “it is nice to see that local cuisine is still being appreciated, although in most cases, it is being given a modern twist and is not truly
authentic to the old way of cooking, because in the past, long, slow cooking was the method of choice. Perhaps some restaurants still cook this way, but not many, while others are also digging up their families’ old recipes.”
Stuffat tal-bebbux - viewingmalta.com
Gloria Mizzi’s
recommendations:
For those getting their first taste of local cuisine, some dishes should certainly be at the top of their list. Gloria recommends tucking in to a portion of kusksu bil-ful – it is very typical of Maltese cuisine and extremely comforting during winter. “Braġjoli biz zalza (beef olives in sauce) are also very tasty and traditional, accompanied by seasonal vegetables, mainly potatoes, spinach and cauliflower. I would also recommend our timpana, done the traditional way, with tomato paste, pieces of hard-boiled egg and chicken liver, although the recipe could vary slightly between cooks.”
EATING & DRINKING
ASSAGGI
Through their experience working in a Gordon Ramsey establishment MAZE in London, the pair gained good insight and knowledge of creating a true dining experience from start to finish. This prompted them to open their own restaurant five years ago and share their passion for food and show off their skills in creating simple dishes with a difference. Through a careful selection of ingredients as well as the artistic presentation of his plates, chef Ivan has given Assaggi’s menu an innovative edge over the others, sure to please all your senses.
The menu changes daily, with a focus on seasonal quality ingredients. Pasta lovers are in for a treat as all pasta dishes are home-made, while for a taste of the very best opt for the chef ’s tasting menu which features some of the most exquisite food such as fresh lobster, white truffles, foie gras or our special dry-aged beef. Ivan is following worldwide trends of the sous vide cooking method with the pork belly cooked for 24 hours, featuring as another speciality on the menu and enjoyed by many. Amanda’s expertise is shown in her freshly home-made desserts. Her
Assaggi is a small restaurant tucked away in the heart of St Julian’s, run by chef patron Ivan Lanzon Miller and his partner Amanda Savona.
speciality is cassata siciliana with a twist, served in a jar, layered with the very best chocolate jelly, home-made sponge, sweet ricotta and topped with a marzipan lid. Of course Assaggi also has a good wine selection that complements the food whilst the staff is trained to help you choose the right wine. Assaggi food and wine is definitely worth a visit; in fact its clients keep coming back for more! Parking is not a problem as we provide free parking, right outside the restaurant.
Open: Tue-Sat: 7.30-11pm; Sun: 12.30-3.30pm. Assaggi, Upper Ross Street, St Julian’s. T: 2133 6625; M: 7933 6625/7733 8855; E: info@assaggi.net; www.assaggi.net
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EATING & DRINKING
Cellini Wine Bar and Bistro Cellini is a quaint wine bar and bistro situated in the heart of the village of Naxxar. We serve typical nibbles, platters, small eats and mouth-watering dishes prepared by our resident chef, including our popular grilled fresh rib-eye, duck and other dishes, accompanied by well-chosen wines from all over the world. Open from Monday to Saturday 7pm till late. Private functions are also accepted. Cellini Wine Bar, 2, TriqToni Bajjada, Naxxar. T: 2143 3670; M: 9921 8279; E: info@celliniwinebar.com
De Robertis Roof Top Restaurant De Robertis is one of the longest established restaurants in Valletta. Located on the roof-top of the Castille Hotel, the restaurant is well known for its refined cuisine. The open-air terrace dining area has spectacular views of Valletta and the Grand Harbour, and provides a romantic setting at night with the glimmering lights of the towns surrounding the Grand Harbour. The menu includes a fusion of Italian, Mediterranean, French and local cuisines beautifully presented in a lavish way, yet reasonably priced. One can choose between an à la carte or a set menu. Open for lunch from noon to 2.30pm and dinner from 7pm to 10pm. T: 2124 3677/8. De Robertis Roof Top Restaurant, Castille Hotel, Valletta.
Ir-Rizzu Restaurant Ir-RIZZU, a family-run restaurant specialising mainly in fresh fish and seafood, is situated on the seafront of Marsaxlokk. Our menu is varied with a lovely selection of pasta, seafood, fish, beef, chicken, pork and a kid’s menu. Our clients’ favourite dishes are the traditional fish soup, our very own fresh prawn pulpetti, spaghetti with fresh seafood or your selection of seafood served on a tray to share to start with. A wide selection of local and foreign wines is also available. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Closed on Sunday evenings. Reservations for the weekend are highly recommended. Ir-Rizzu Restaurant, 52, Xatt is-Sajjieda, Marsaxlokk. T: 2165 1569/2165 0492; E: irrizzu@gmail.com
La Stalla Restaurant La Stalla is a vast, popular, Mediterranean family-run restaurant with a warm wooden interior. The extensive menu consists of pizzas, pastas, fresh fish, seafood, a variety of meats and poultry, and we also specialise in Maltese dishes. You may even choose a set menu priced at just €13.50. We are particularly renowned for serving genuine, fresh food, offering helpful service, a relaxing and child-friendly atmosphere, a decent wine list, very reasonable prices and large portions. Open: 5.30-11.30pm Mon-Fri; 5.30pm-midnight Sat; 11.45am-2.30pm and 5.30-11.30pm Sun. La Stalla Restaurant, Tourists Street, Buġibba (just 5mins away from the centre of Buġibba and the Bus Station). T: 2157 1368; M: 9949 6240.
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EATING & DRINKING
Maltese Mama Maltese Mama serves authentic Maltese and Italian cuisines complemented with great service in a relaxing atmosphere. To start, patrons are offered a complimentary plate of traditional Maltese antipasti, served with fresh bread and galletti. Starters include home-made soups, octopus, scallops, clams, the speciality shellfish platter and pasta dishes. A variety of main courses is also available, with specialities including fish and traditional Maltese dishes such as rabbit and braġjoli (beef olives). Maltese Mama, 19/2, Paceville Avenue, St Julian’s. T: 2737 7024; M: 7780 5312; E: eltonspiteri@hotmail.com
Palazzo Preca Restaurant Palazzo Preca Restaurant is repeatedly awarded highly as one of the best restaurants in Malta and Gozo. It is situated in one of the most well-known historic streets in Valletta, within a beautiful 16th-century palazzo in Strait Street. An extensive and creative menu provides mouth-watering choices of food and fine local and foreign wines. Last but not least do not miss out on our delicious home-made desserts. Professional, dedicated, attentive staff will help you to ensure that your visit is a completely enjoyable experience. Wednesday night is our special night when the lights are turned off and the restaurant is entirely lit by candles, creating an intimate and romantic ambience. Open Sunday lunch. Monday closed all day. Bookings are recommended and are to be confirmed by phone. T: 2122 6777; M: 9986 6640; W: www.palazzoprecarestaurant.com - Palazzo Preca, 54, Strait Street, Valletta.
Pintonino Restaurant Pintonino Restaurant is ideally located in the historical and picturesque Valletta waterfront, built by Manuel Pinto de Fonseca in the 18th century. This is a unique location, embedded in the fortifications of Valletta and on the shoreline of the harbour. At Pintonino we have one goal: ‘creating a hub of Mediterranean cuisine’ for our customers seeking to experience their passion for food and service. Pintonino, Vault 15, Valletta Waterfront. T: 2122 7773; E: info@pintonino.com
Rebekah’s Restaurant Rebekah’s Restaurant is the home of fine dining, discreetly located in the heart of the village of Mellieħa. Complemented by Manuel Attard’s passion and sound 20 year experience in catering and fine dining, Rebekah’s Restaurant is surely to become one’s recurring spot for a gourmet haven. While retaining high standards of simple yet creative Mediterranean dishes, the restaurant prides itself on using only the freshest seasonal produce. Head Chef Sephora Zammit accentuates the recently prepared menu by offering special dishes daily. Rebekah’s Restaurant, 12, Triq It-Tgħam, Mellieħa. T: 2152 1145; M: 7947 8896; E: info@rebekahsmalta.com; W: www.rebekahsmalta.com
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EATING & DRINKING
Ta’ Kris Restaurant and Maltese Bistro Right in the heart of Sliema lies Ta’ Kris Restaurant and Maltese Bistro, serving wholesome home cooking at unbeatable prices. Chef patron Chris uses the freshest ingredients to create tasty Maltese dishes like Dad’s Famous Braġjoli, thick beef stew, veal escalopes and rabbit. Patrons are also spoilt for choice with the daily specials ranging from fresh fish to beef fillet and various pasta dishes. All at this price-worthy restaurant is served in the unique settings of a former bakery. Ta’ Kris is one of the best rated restaurants by the Definitive(ly) Good Guide to Restaurants. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Ta’ Kris, 80, Fawwara Lane, Sliema. T: 2133 7367; M: 9984 7713; W: www.takris.malta-europe.com
Ta’ Marija Celebrating 50 years of excellence, Ta’ Marija restaurant offers the ideal venue for colleagues, friends and family to celebrate this festive season with sumptuous food in welcoming surroundings, complemented by our exceptional service and merriment in the making. Enjoy our all-inclusive carvery buffets on Saturday evenings and Sunday lunches for just €25 per person, or indulge in a Maltese extravaganza on Friday nights with a spectacular traditional folk dancing show and our mandolins and guitars duo! For more info on our Festive Season line up and staff party menus contact us or visit our website. Ta’ Marija Restaurant, Constitution Street, Mosta. T: 2143 4444; E: info@tamarija.com.mt; W: www.tamarija.com.mt
Tarragon Restaurant Multi award-winning Tarragon Restaurant offers delicious, casual fare that goes down a treat. Quality, comfort and value are three key ingredients that make the Tarragon experience like no other. Our menu features tender, juicy steaks, succulent shellfish, the freshest of fish, irresistible desserts, great daily specials and an outstanding wine list. Our staff is outgoing, knowledgeable and friendly, with a genuine desire to please. View our extensive menu, including our Christmas and New Year selections online. Open 6.30-11pm Mon-Fri; 6.30pm-12.30am Sat; 12-3.30pm Sun. Tarragon Restaurant, 21, Church Street, St Paul’s Bay. T: 2157 3759; M: 9926 6999; E: inform@tarragonmalta.com; W: www.tarragonmalta.com
The Boathouse Restaurant The Boathouse Restaurant in Xlendi is a stunning seafront restaurant which offers a unique culinary experience. In fact The Boathouse has been acknowledged as one of the Top 40 Restaurants on the Maltese islands for three consecutive years i.e. 2012, 2013 and 2014. It specialises in Mediterranean cuisine and offers an array of fresh fish and seafood, and also a wide variety of meat and poultry dishes accompanied by an excellent list of local and international wines. The restaurant opens daily and caters for late lunches. Booking is highly recommended. Open: noon-10.30pm (last orders) serving the full menu. The Boathouse Restaurant, Xlendi Seafront, Xlendi. Reservations: 2756 7207/2156 9153/2155 7661.
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EATING & DRINKING
The Harbour Club The Harbour Club is situated down the road from Victoria Gate in Valletta, and enjoys stunning views of the Grand Harbour. The menu is modern Mediterranean, and everything is exquisitely prepared with quality local produce. The Harbour Club reflects a fresh concept and ambience that is stylishly wonderful with a refined cuisine. Open daily 11am to 1am. Kitchen serves food from 12.30pm to 2.30pm and 7.30pm to 11pm. The Harbour Club, 4/5, Xatt il-Barrierra, Valletta. T: 2122 2332; M: 7922 2332; E: info@theharbourclubmalta.com
Zero Sei If you’re craving a taste of Rome dial Zero Sei (the capital’s prefix) and you’ll be transported to a cosy trattoria in Old Theatre Street, Valletta. Run by the endearingly charming Fausto Soldini and his wife Louisa, Zero Sei is the place where you can eat an authentic plate of pici con amatriciana or rigatoni con cacio e pepe, washed down with good Italian wine. What’s more, most of his produce – such as the deliciously delicate Parma ham or mozzarella di Bufala – is especially sourced from Italy. This is a no-frills, genuine trattoria where you can eat well without breaking the bank. Zero Sei, 75 Old Theatre Street, (opposite the Manoel Theatre). T: 2122 2010.
Zeri’s Located at the prestigious Portomaso Marina the first restaurant at the top of the stairs that lead to the marina – this highly acclaimed restaurant presents an imaginative menu that reflects Zeri’s (as chef patron Mark is known) skills at creating dishes full of traditional Mediterranean flavour. Specials include an array of fresh high quality meat, pasta, salads, antipasti and fish, whilst the wine list boasts over 170 wines. Great food and a relaxing, yet buzzing ambience make Zeri’s the place to go for business or pleasure. Zeri’s also caters for staff parties and private dinners and lunches. Free parking at Portomaso. Reservations recommended.
Open daily for dinner. October-April Open also for lunch. T: 2135 9559; M: 7957 3333; E: zeris@maltanet.net; W: www.zerisrestaurant.com Zeri’s Restaurant, Portomaso Marina Complex, Portomaso, St Julian’s.
SECTION
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EATING & DRINKING
Spinola Terrace Overlooking the beauty in its simplicity of the Spinola marina, perfectly complemented by our intricate décor, dining on our terrace offers a unique experience.Our Executive Chef Victor Borg has handpicked each element on the menu, developing a combination of both classical and signature dishes from all around the Mediterranean Sea. Spinola Terrace consistently makes use of nature’s best produce at its prime to assure genuine freshness that will zinger all your senses and offer you an experience to remember.
Spinola Terrace, 102, Spinola Road, St Julian’s (entrance from sea side) Phone for bookings: T: 2138 4939 or M: 9999 0011. W: www.spinolaterrace.com Opening hours: 6.30-10.30pm Monday-Friday; 12.30-2.30pm and 6.30-10.30pm Saturday; 12.30-2.30pm Sunday.
Luna – the restaurant at Palazzo Parisio
Palazzo Parisio’s Luna restaurant combines a variety of culinary concepts set in a historic building. Every corner emanates femininity, luxury and a taste of history. In the morning, the Luna restaurant serves breakfast, snacks and lunch. In the afternoon you may enjoy the superb traditional English afternoon tea, with the possibility of purchasing a variety of fine teas from around the world for you to enjoy at home. You may choose from the sublime interior or the shaded tables on the garden terrace beside orange blossoms and bougainvilleas. In the evening, relish a kaleidoscope of tastes via the impressive ‘Menu Degustazione’ with some of the most creative and stylish food interpretations enhanced by a vast selection of wines. The heavenly desserts are impossible to resist. The lounge offers relaxation and understated luxury amid the trendy Parisian-style interiors. Sit and sip exquisite aperitifs along with some tasty bar bites or enjoy the wide selection of vintage wines, champagnes,
vodkas and a variety of innovative cocktails. Comment devotees praise “the varied and stylish menu,” and the “excellent service” in a “magnificent setting”.
Book your table on T: 21412461 Ext 2 or E: fb@palazzoparisio.com 29, Victory Square, Naxxar. W: www.palazzoparisio.com 81
TAKE NOTE
CHEMISTS Chemists are found throughout the islands and are open during normal shopping hours. On Sundays they operate on a roster from 9am to 12.30pm in Malta and from 7.30am to 11am in Gozo. Details of the roster are available on the local Sunday newspapers.
TAKE NOTE
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS DURING DECEMBER AND JANUARY 8th December – Immaculate Conception 13th December – Republic Day 25th December – Christmas Day 1st January – New Year’s Day BANKS AND CURRENCY EXCHANGE Banks are normally open between 8.30am and 1.30pm Mon-Thur, between 8.30am and 3.30pm on Fri, and up to noon on Sat. Some banks open for longer hours. International bankcards are accepted and foreign currency is easily exchanged. Banks, Automated Teller Machines (ATMs) and exchange bureaux can be found all over the islands. USEFUL AND EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NOS 00356 International Code 112 Emergency Services 1182 Directory Enquiries 1152 Overseas Operator 195 Time Check 2124 9600 Flight Enquiries
TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES IN MALTA Malta Tourism Authority-run offices may be found at: Valletta 229, Auberge D’Italie, Merchants Street. T: 2291 5440/1/2 Malta International Airport Arrivals Lounge, Luqa. T: 2369 6073/4 Gozo 17, Independence Square, Victoria. T: 2291 5452/3 Mdina St Publius Square. T: 2145 4480 Mellieħa Misraħ iż-żjara tal-Papa Gwanni Pawlu II26 ta’ Mejju 1990. T: 2152 4666 Valletta Waterfront Pinto Wharf. T: 2122 0633 Public hospital in Malta Mater Dei Hospital, B’Kara By-pass, B’Kara. T: 2545 0000; E: mdh@gov.mt Public hospital in Gozo Gozo General Hospital, Victoria. T: 2156 1600
SMOKING No smoking is allowed in any entertainment establishment, including bars and restaurants, unless there is a designated smoking area. POSTAL SERVICES Most towns and villages have post or sub-post offices. Branch Post Offices in Malta and Gozo are open between 7.30am and 12.45pm Mon-Sat. Sub-Post Offices are open between 8am and 1pm, and 4pm and 6pm Mon-Fri, and between 8am and 1pm Sat. Stamps can be bought from post offices, local newsagents, souvenir shops and hotels. ELECTRICITY The electrical supply is 230 volts, 50 hertz. The three-pin rectangular plug system is used, as in Britain. Adapters are very easy to find. TIPPING Gratuities are usually in the region of 10-15 per cent, as in most European countries. As a rule of thumb: taxi drivers – not expected, but up to 10 per cent; porters – €0.25-0.35 per piece of luggage; restaurants, unless a service charge is added to the bill, 10 per cent.
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NIGHTLIFE
Let’s party! The local nightlife scene is absolutely buzzing with activity during this time of year, ranging from pre-Christmas events to New Year’s Eve parties that are not to be missed. Martina Said selects the top clubbing events that you should be attending this festive season.
Pre Fridays If you’re looking for something off the beaten path on a Friday night, then Pre Fridays at Madliena Cottage, Madliena, could be just what you’re after. The setting is somewhat alternative, featuring live interactive art, installations and a variety of surprises from one Friday to the next. Expect cocktails, a different line-up of DJs from week to week, nu jazz as well as chilled wine and platters. For this year’s autumn/winter season, a new area called ‘The Post Box’ has been added, dedicated to subculture music genres, making it the perfect prelude to your weekend. For reservations or more information on these events, call M: 7940 4505. Metamorphosis Following the success of their first event, Trackage Scheme are hosting their second event on 6th December at Razzett L-aħmar in Mosta from 5pm
till late, and this year’s theme goes by the name of Metamorphosis. Expect a vast selection of memorable tracks from their handpick of local artists, including Malta’s most talented, creative and diverse individual musicians, live bands and DJs, who are set on taking their audience on a spectacular audio-visual journey across a variety of musical genres, namely alternative, rock, indie, ambient, techno, house, electronic and experimental. The line-up includes Lucy’s Last, Dolls for Idols, Owen Jay and Melchior Sultana. Tickets: €10/€15 at the door.
The Smirnoff Experience After successfully hosting the VIP and VVIP areas at the Smirnoff Illuminato event headlined by Robin Schulz last October, Mainstream Events will be hosting their flagship event, The Smirnoff Experience, on 6th December at Madliena Cottage, Madliena. Being their last Smirnoff Experience event before New Year’s Eve, the organisers are set on offering the best night you can imagine. Airport Impressions will be rocking the crowd in their last gig this year, and Ziggy and Alvin Gee will perform back to back sets that are sure to get you in the mood to party. Tickets: €10. www.showshappening.com
FatFunk003 The FatFunk movement premiered last July and sparked a series of events with a difference. Encapsulating a variety of art forms, FatFunk aims to present the best standalone artists to its audience that are at the top of their game. Ryan Elliot was the first choice for the first event, followed by the Majestic Margaret Dygas. For their finale event of 2014, FatFunk will be hosting Matt Edwards, also known as Radio Slave, who launched the label ‘Rekids’ in 2006. Edwards has been at the forefront of the amalgamation of house and techno music, and will be debuting in Malta on 13th December in an intimate set up at Gianpula’s main room (limits of Rabat). Tickets: €15. www.showshappening.com ➜
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Two diverse but very prominent DJs, Slim and Carl Bee share their thoughts on Malta’s nightlife scene during the months of December and January.
Nicky Scicluna is a freelance photographer, DJ and event organiser born and raised in Malta “The local nightlife scene throughout December is incredibly busy – it was actually quite a struggle for me to find a free date to organise an event myself during this month as there was so much happening already. I’ll be attending a number of events throughout the month, including Friday nights at Ryan’s Pub in St Julian’s, Radio Slave at Gianpula Club in Rabat, GET It Xmas Eve at The Villa in St Julian’s, and will top it all off with Samsara New Year’s Eve party at Casablanca in Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq, which is where I will be performing on the night. After such a busy December, January is quite the opposite as everybody goes back to their routine of school or work and the islands’ nightlife scene takes a break. For those visiting the island for the first time, however, I would highly suggest to avoid Paceville, unless you enjoy mainstream music and crowds of young people, and find one-off events organised around the island instead.”
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A Night with Slim & Squeak DJ duo Slim & Squeak will be hosting their Christmas Special event on 20th December at Razzett l-aħmar in Mosta. Simon Sauter will warm up the crowd early on, and Slim and Squeak will take to the decks for the rest of the night. Expect a night of fun, entertainment and good music. Doors open at 11pm. Tickets: €10. www.showshappening.com
Carlo Baldacchino also known as Carl Bee, is a full time DJ and producer based in Malta “Being in the nightlife business, December is a very busy month for me with a number of gigs at various clubs and events. On the other hand, January is the month were I can relax a little and enjoy some different late afternoon events to the usual, such as trying out new restaurants. I am especially looking forward to 31st December, as I’ve been hosting my New Year’s Eve event for the last five years and it’s been one of the highlights of my career. Previous years were all sell out shows and this year it looks like we’re heading for another one. I’m looking forward to spending the last hours of 2014 and the first of 2015 at Gianpula Club in Rabat with friends and loyal fans. Malta’s nightlife scene has a lot to offer – from commercial or underground music to a lounge bar or a cool pub to hang out and nibble some food. The club scene is also very cheap and affordable for everyone, and island weather is great – what else can you ask for?”
GET It Xmas Eve at The Villa The Villa restaurant in Balluta Bay, St Julian’s, will be transformed for a night of partying this 23rd December for a memorable Christmas eve hosted by GET it. Electro Swing lovers can dance the night away upstairs in the main room, while DJs Slim and Squeak will go back to back and deliver an unforgettable house session downstairs. Early bird tickets: €10. www.showshappening.com ➜
NIGHTLIFE sell-out events on 31st December for the last five years, and this year promises to be an equally stellar night. Tickets: €25 (first batch)/€45 (VIP). M: 9937 3740; E: info@djcarlbee.com
Lights Out Casino Royale NYE14 The annual event that needs little introduction, Lights Out returns with a fresh dose of class, glitz and glamour, and this year’s theme turns up the heat, Casino Royale style. Supported by Twisted, the event boasts a spectacular countdown, visuals and graphic animations by Pure Media, firework displays, a newly refurbished elevated VIP area hosted by Ziggy, and 17 top local artists. Lights Out will be held at Mansion and The Playground, St Julian’s, from 9pm till 4am. Tickets: €35/€50 (VIP). www.showshappening.com The Valletta National New Year’s Eve Celebration Following the success of the last few years, Malta once more will be boasting a New Year’s Eve national celebration. This year, the festive atmosphere will be organised throughout most of Valletta, and patrons can welcome the new year in a joyous celebration in the capital starting from 8.30pm. NYE celebrations are being organised by the Valletta Local Council in collaboration with G7 Events and supported by the V18 Foundation, Ministry of Tourism and Ministry of Justice, Culture and Local Government. www.g7events.com Your NYE Join renowned DJ Carl Bee for a night to remember at Gianpula Complex, Rabat this New Year’s Eve from 10pm till 4am. The talented artist has been hosting 88
Samsara 2014 – New Year’s Eve This New Year’s Eve, celebrate with a unique spectacle at Casablanca, Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq, in a night that promises high energy, unity and good vibrations over three distinct spaces. Hosted by Duncan F and GET It, party-goers can enjoy a charged night of great music, featuring DJs Slim, Alex Thomson, Julian Drury, Neil Pantos, Twain and Danny Vibe. The venue provides ample parking space and guests can tuck in to a selection of sushi. Tickets: €30 (includes one free drink)/€65 (includes a bottle and mixers)/€100 (includes a premium bottle and mixers). M: 7941 7034; E: info@duncanf. com; www.showshappening.com
The Veuve Clicquot NYE 2015 Privé Events and Mainstream Events have teamed up to offer an unforgettable New Year’s Eve party at Magazino, Valletta Waterfront. The venue will be exceptionally decorated to include special effects, glitz and glam as well as projections, where style and finesse are the order of the day. Veuve Clicquot Champagne will be headlining the event and a limited amount of pre-sold VIP tables are up for grabs, with a waiting and bottle service, free-flowing spirits, canapés and food available throughout the evening. Guest DJs include Armand plus Sax, Joseph Armani and Mr Vinz, and dress code is strictly Hollywood glam. M: 7947 0216/9942 9487/9982 1428. Tickets: €70 (early bird)/€85. www.showshappening.com
Level 22 One of the most appealing factors of Level 22 is its feeling of elegance and exclusivity with spectacular views from Portomaso tower. It is a stylish wine lounge and club aptly named after its occupancy of the 22nd floor of Portomaso in St Julian’s, and attracts an older, sophisticated crowd. Level 22 serves up some delicious cocktails which range from classics to avant-garde creations, and is decked out in leather sofas and mirrors. This spot is also ideal for private events or large groups although it is recommended to book ahead. For information on its latest or upcoming events, visit www.22.com.mt
TAKE NOTE Photo: Anthony Vella - viewingmalta.com
Getting Around
M
alta is about 27 kilometres long and 14.5 kilometres wide. Short distances make it possible to make the most of your stay at a relaxed pace. The network of buses within the public transport system covers nearly all the islands. Car hire rates in Malta are good value. You may also enjoy a relaxing trip on the calm, blue Mediterranean Sea by taking an island or harbour cruise or cross between Valletta and Sliema by ferry at half hourly intervals.
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BUSES The public transport services offered in the Maltese islands operate on a network offering multiple connections and main termini in Malta’s capital, Valletta, and Gozo’s capital, Victoria. A total of 80 different routes link the different localities in Malta to either major hubs such as Valletta, Mater Dei Hospital and the airport or to other destinations, while 15 routes operate in Gozo. The public transport service runs daily between 5.30am and 11pm, with express routes (designated with an ‘X’) having limited stops and operating to and from the airport from different localities. Three digit routes link different localities together and, in most cases, do not serve Valletta. A journey planner, timetable information and details on bus fares are available at www. transport.gov.mt/land-transport. More details on T: 2122 2000.
TRAVELLING TO GOZO A regular ro-ro ferry service carries passengers and cars between Malta and Gozo. The trip takes about 30 minutes. For information and timetables contact The Gozo Channel Company on T: 2210 9000. CAR HIRE Most international car hire companies have a branch in Malta. Local companies too offer this service, with or without a chauffeur. Car hire rates are very reasonable compared to those in other European countries. TAXIS All taxis are fitted with meters and should charge government-controlled prices. Any complaints should be addressed to the Public Transport Authority, T: 2143 8475. Over recent months, a number of private companies have also been set up to offer competitive chauffeur-driven services.