EXPLORE
Experience Valletta like a local p. 28
MEET THE LOCALS
Art expert sheds light on Caravaggio’s masterpieces p. 34
FOOD & DRINK
Meet six top fine-dining chefs p. 45
There’s loads to do and see during your visit to the islands, whether you’re into culture, nature, adventure, or pure relaxation. Rebecca Anastasi has the rundown of the experiences you should not miss.
The marvellous capital city of Valletta should undoubtedly be on your list of must-see places to visit. Edward Bonello, a Valletta resident himself, picks his favourite spots and invites you to experience them just like a local would.
Edward Bonello visits the all-new The Farsons Brewery Experience, celebrating the intimate link between the prestigious Farsons brand and Malta’s history.
There’s no denying that Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio was a genius artist. He resided in Malta for 15 short months, but, in that time, he painted a number of works, among them the masterpiece, The Beheading of St John the Baptist, that hangs proudly in its original position in St John’s Co-Cathedral. Professor Keith Sciberras discusses the factors that make Caravaggio’s works revolutionary.
Ever since the arrival of Michelin in Malta, the restaurant scene has undergone somewhat of a renaissance. Dean Muscat speaks with six of the islands’ leading chef patrons to discuss their insights, challenges and hopes for the future of the local culinary scene.
The hottest new styles of the season – silver and Y2K are back! New seasons bring new trends. Fashion gurus Carina Camilleri, Malcolm Gauci and Leah Camenzuli reveal what’s in this season.
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An in-depth look at what it takes to set up a business in Malta, the new and emerging economic sectors attracting local and international investment, and why the islands are considered a business and financial services hub in Europe.
Johan Siggesson is a wildlife photographer from Sweden who has made Malta his home and is enthralled by the beauty of wild orchids across the islands, which are the subject of his recently published book. Sarah Muscat Azzopardi meets him to find out more.
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Published since 2005, Guide Me is the largest and the leading independent guide for visitors in Malta and Gozo. This issue covers the Spring/early Summer 2023 period. Guide Me is distributed free of charge through leading hotels around Malta and Gozo. The publication is also distributed for free from MTA offices in Malta and Gozo. It is also sold at leading newsagents in Malta and Gozo, including those at the MIA and the Gozo Channel ferries.
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Have you just landed and are unsure about how to make the most of your stay? Well, firstly, welcome to the Maltese islands. We hope that they will enchant you and leave you wanting more – almost onefourth of visitors to Malta in 2022 were repeat visitors after all! Secondly, our raison d’être is precisely to help guide you around this wonderful archipelago.
Rebecca Anastasi starts by providing a local’s perspective on the top 10 things to do in Malta this spring and summer. She suggests a dose of culture, the arts and history, combined with some fun in the sun and outdoorsy activities thrown in for good measure.
A definite must-visit is the UNESCO World Heritage site of Valletta, the capital city. It is home to many of the islands’ historical treasures within its grid-like streets, alongside an impressive variety of cultural attractions, top-notch eateries, trendy watering holes and stylish places to sleep. Edward Bonello, a Valletta resident himself, shares local insight to help you take in all that this vibrant city has to offer.
One of the capital’s highlights is St John’s CoCathedral. It is a veritable treasure trove of Baroque art and architecture, among them the world-famous masterpiece by Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio, The Beheading of St John the Baptist, and to another
evocative work by the intrepid artist, Saint Jerome Writing. In the Meet the Locals section, Professor Keith Sciberras, an academic and the island’s resident expert on the artist, sheds light on what makes Caravaggio’s works revolutionary.
In another interesting piece, Dean Muscat meets six highly respected chefs who have all contributed to raising the bar in the restaurant scene locally over the past years. They share their insights, challenges and hopes for fine dining in Malta, as well as their favourite dining spots!
This edition is all about people with interesting stories to tell. Sarah Muscat Azzopardi interviews Johan Siggesson, a wildlife photographer from Sweden who has made Malta his home. In COVID times, his travel plans ground to a halt and he shifted his focus, led by his new-found fascination of the several orchids’ species that grow wild in Malta. They became the subject of a photography-based book, showcasing the natural beauty of the Maltese islands.
Last but not least, we meet three fashionistas who talk us through the fashion trends to look out for this season, to ensure you look your best for those Instagram-perfect photos.
We hope you enjoy this edition of Guide Me.
As the temperatures rise, and the seas get warmer, REBECCA ANASTASI has the rundown to the unmissable experiences the Maltese islands have on offer this spring, and early summer.
2.
Malta is known for its crystal-blue waters and warm sands, which really show off their colours in the early morning sun, just as the island is waking up for its first cup of coffee. Head to the beach before 9am, and you will get to sink your feet into the soft sand, as the sea laps the shore, without having to endure the heaving and bustling crowds which tend to get there later on in the day. I find the best spots to enjoy the Mediterranean in all its pristine glory are Riviera beach in the north of the island (also known as Għajn Tuffieħa) and the long expanse at Mellieħa (or Għadira) bay, where you can even try out some water sports if you’re up to it – here, Costa del Sol offer water sports and jet ski hire all day. And, if you want to truly make it a traditional experience, pack some ftira biż-żejt (Maltese bread filled with tuna, olives, capers, and tomato paste) and the popular soft drink, Kinnie – you will definitely get the locals’ respect!
Many areas in Malta feel like an open-air museum, with ancient temples scattered around the islands, Baroque churches crowding the main squares, and Neoclassical columns taking a stand in the capital. Growing up enveloped by the stories of so many who have come before, the Maltese tend to become somewhat inured of their rich heritage. This is probably because there is so much to appreciate. But, if you’re on the island for just a few days, this is not your problem, and you would do well to book a primer which will take you on a whirlwind tour of the archipelago’s past, such as the Malta Experience, in Valletta. This show promises a lot – 7,000 years in under an hour – yet it delivers on visual spectacle and entertainment, to paint a portrait of a people determined to survive against all odds.
What many might not know is that, up until a few years ago, Valletta heaved with activity during the day, only to plummet into obscure silence at night. I remember walking down the main throughfare, Republic Street, long after the sun had set, in the 2010s, only to hear nothing but the scurrying of insects in the sewer below. Today, of course, it’s an entirely different affair. Valletta is alive, with a beating heart, and dancing feet, ready to party long into the night. During the day, the capital opens the doors to its museums, such as MUŻA, Malta’s National Museum of Art; its heritage sites, including St John’s CoCathedral, where you can witness the glory of Caravaggio’s The Beheading of St John the Baptist; and shops, such as Valletta Glass, a family business which offers glass artefacts and souvenirs, modelled on Venice’s famous Murano movement. But, as the sun sets, the colours of the sky find their mirror in the thousands of Spritzs Malta’s fashionable set sip while catching up on the day with their friends, or colleagues.
Malta may be well known for its showstopping works of art, ensconced in places of worship, but far from the usual maddening crowd, its artists are busy shaping the future. The Christine X gallery in Sliema showcases the work of local painters and photographers, with the curator’s eye – the eponymous Christine, herself – serving as an informative guide to quality. There are several names who should be on your list, if contemporary art is a passion: Anna Galea, Ryan Falzon and Andrew Borg are some of Malta’s hottest property on the scene right now. If more artisanal work is up your street, the Malta Crafts Foundation, established in 2021, is a good guide to the island’s skilled professionals, and you can find some of their wares at the Malta Artisan Market, taking place on 3rd June, between 6pm and 10pm at Roseville in Attard. For more information, visit maltacrafts.org and www.maltaartisanmarkets.com.
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Malta, Gozo and Comino are surrounded by sea water caves, which puncture the limestone, and echo with centuries of deeply-held secrets. Legend has it that pirates used to store their gold in these caves – although that could simply be the plot of one of the films shooting on the island, for the only buccaneers I truly know of are those which haunt the bars after hours. Nevertheless, a visit to the caves should be on your itinerary, particularly those at Blue Grotto in Żurrieq. The name comes from the vivid colours of the waters, formed as the sun reflects off the sandy seabed underneath the caverns. Many tourists come and take Instagram-worthy shots from the panoramic spots high above, but if you truly want to live the place, a boat trip into the grotto is a must.
Valletta is alive, with a beating heart, and dancing feet, ready to party long into the night.
The ancient capital of Mdina is perched high above the island, on a plateau in its centre, surveying the lives beneath. It was founded in the eighth century BC, and has survived marauders and earthquakes, although today the only invaders are the hordes of tourists that make their way up that hill, or locals who head to its coffee shops, often to savour a slice of Fontanella’s chocolate cake, which is legendary. The small, fortified city is also known for its spectacular parish church – St Paul’s Cathedral – and the Mdina Cathedral Museum, homed next door, which tells the eventful history of the site. Both of these form part of the Mdina Metropolitan Chapter, which also co-runs the St John’s Co-Cathedral museum in Valletta. Before leaving, stop by in the ancient town of Rabat – located just outside Mdina’s walls – and pick up a couple of pastizzi (traditional filo pastry cheese or pea cakes) from Serkin.
When I was a teenager, my family decided to head to Comino for the afternoon. This was not a usual affair – for some reason we had a tendency to frequent the same beaches in Malta, and never really bothered to venture that far out. But, on this occasion, we piled into a speed boat in St Julian’s, towels in hand, hats on head, and ready to make the ride to the small rocky island in the north. I don’t think I ever laughed so much: music blaring, all of us singing, we got to Comino with huge grins on our faces. That was years ago, but today, you can also live the power boat experience: Supreme Power Boats takes you to the Blue Lagoon, from Sliema, stopping off for long enough for you to jump off and snorkel; they also offer Comino cave tours, and private charters, should you fancy a more private affair. For more information, visit supremepowerboatsmalta.com.
The ancient capital of Mdina is perched high above the island, on a plateau in its centre, surveying the lives beneath.
There are green areas on the Maltese islands… we promise! While many visitors to the island end up either in the cosmopolitan area of Sliema, or in the honeycombed capital of Valletta, there is more to this archipelago than high-quality restaurants and heritage sites. In Malta, the verdant areas of Buskett, Siġġiewi, Mġarr and Mtaħleb offer a break from the hustle and bustle of the tourist trail. However, if you’re a serious rambler – or, even, if you simply want to explore the natural riches of the Mediterranean – head to Gozo, via the ferry. Malta’s sister island is teeming with lush sites, rocky outcrops and rare flora.
Malta’s location in the middle of the Mediterranean, at the crossroads of European, North African and Levantine cultures, has formed its identity, its language and its cuisine. And one of the mainstays of Malta’s culinary traditions is – no surprises here, considering it is an island – fish and seafood. Maltese fishermen are mainly based in the southern town of Marsaxlokk where you will see their colourful boats, known as luzzi, bop around in the waters. There are countless eateries around the coast here, many of exceptional quality. But, if you want to truly eat like a local, head to the small bay at Għar Lapsi: down on the quay you will find a small restaurant, Carmen’s Bar and Restaurant (otherwise known as Ta’ Carmen, or, ‘of Carmen’), whose food packs a punch. The owner buys fish fresh from the local fishers who drag their boats up on the shore.
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There are a handful of things which the Maltese associate with home: the cheesy snack known as Twistees; the soft drink Kinnie; and the island’s best-loved brew, Cisk, which colours our memories of long days on the beach with friends, nights out as teenagers in sticky bars, and family BBQs. Our love affair with Cisk is undying, and all suds – whether they come from the beer-kings of Ireland, Germany or further afield – are always compared to the holy grail of our favourite hops. Today, you can discover the history of Malta’s icon at The Farsons Brewery Experience in Mriehel, located within the newly-opened The Brewhouse. When you’re done, head upstairs, to its rooftop bar, The Cisk Tap, and sip one of Malta’s best offerings as the sun sets over the island.
Maltese fishermen are mainly based in the southern town of Marsaxlokk where you will see their colourful boats, known as luzzi, bop around in the waters.Gozo. Photo: Kyrylo Balakleiets - Unsplash Marsaxlokk. Photo: Calin Stan - Unsplash
A visit to Malta must start from Valletta, Europe’s smallest and (arguably) sunniest capital city. EDWARD BONELLO, a Valletta boy himself, shares his favourite spots to take in the full flavour of the Valletta experience.
Malta’s capital city Valletta is more often referred to by locals simply as il-Belt (the city). That’s because, for many centuries, Valletta was the one reference point for the rest of the island, and anything and everything started and ended here. So, in tiny Malta, no one really needed to specify which city they were referring to – there was just the one.
You can only imagine how proud this makes Valletta residents, who are referred to as Beltin But what makes a real Belti? What are the special
traits and secrets the Beltin know about their lovely city? Do you have what it takes to bear this prestigious title – for a day?
Here’s a quick guide to spending your day like a Belti (m) or Beltija (f), and really take in all this lovely city has to offer!
If you are lucky enough to be residing in one of the several beautifully-restored palazzos-turnedboutique hotels in Valletta, you’re in for a treat. Start the day early, possibly at sunrise, and head down to St Barbara Bastion to take in the spectacular view, as the sun peaks from behind
the fortifications across the Grand Harbour. This scene will stay with you for a while.
Once you’re up, go for a stroll in the streets of downtown Valletta. The city has always been split into two – upper Valletta is home to government offices, museums, fancy eateries, and high street shops. Lower Valletta, closer to the harbour, is the residential, more authentic (slightly rough around the edges) part. This is where you meet the real Beltin, who are as colourful and animated as the city itself.
Then head to Pjazza Reġina and start the day strong. Get yourself a cappuccino or your favourite morning potion together with a couple of ricotta or pea pastizzi in one of Malta’s most iconic squares. Technically, this square is called Pjazza Repubblika, dedicated to Malta’s constitutional status, however many locals still refer to it by its old name due to the marble statue of Queen Victoria that sits in the middle – testament to the country’s recent colonial past.
Start the day early, possibly at sunrise, and head down to St Barbara Bastion to take in the spectacular view, as the sun peaks from behind the fortifications across the Grand Harbour.Auberge de Castille. Photo: Jürgen Sciclunaviewingmalta.com The Grand Harbour. Photo: Mike Nahlii - Unsplash
Once you’ve had your breakfast, it’s time to visit one or two of the magnificent churches – the crown jewels of the city. Malta and Gozo have some 365 churches and chapels dotted around the islands – 28 of which are in Valletta! At a time when the city had a population much greater than today, these churches served the spiritual needs of the residents. In turn, they were transformed into veritable temples of art and reverence.
We start with St John’s Co-Cathedral, built by the Order of the Knights of St John as their Conventual Church, and decorated by the finest artists they could bring in from all over Europe. The Co-Cathedral and its museum are home to works by Caravaggio, Mattia Preti and many more, as well as a wonderful collection of tapestries – regarded among the largest and most exquisite sets of tapestries woven during the Baroque era – making this one of the most impressive places to visit in Malta. Until 24th June, the tapestries are being displayed within the main nave of the Co-Cathedral, following an extensive restoration process that lasted 16 years.
Move on to St Paul Shipwrecked Church, dedicated to St Paul’s shipwreck on Malta in 60AD, which led to the island converting to Christianity. Then there’s the church dedicated to Our Lady of Portosalvo which has a long history associated with Valletta’s maritime
heritage, and the rotunda dedicated to Our Lady of Mount Carmel – a landmark that has characterised the Valletta skyline for many years.
Have you worked up an appetite yet? Naturally! Time to grab a quick bite Valletta-style, at one of the many lunchtime eateries that serve the thousands of workers who commute to Valletta every day. These often offer cheap and cheerful options of home-made favourites that can never go wrong. For a special treat, order a plate of ravioli with tomato sauce, a typical staple of the city – quick, tasty and sets you right for the rest of the day.
It’s the afternoon by now, and if you’re visiting during in the hot summer months, it’s time to refresh and go for a dip in the beautiful deep blue. The best swimming spots are at the very end of the peninsula, close to the breakwater. The sea is very deep here, and can get rough unexpectedly, so swimming here is only advised for strong swimmers. However, set against the hauntingly tall bastions of Fort St Elmo and the immense blue of the Mediterranean, this will possibly be one of the most beautiful dips of your life.
On the way back, make sure to take a stroll round the bastions and pass by the improvised summer beach rooms which make up a micro-village of their own.
Developed questionably over the decades, these shacks are where some locals hang out during the long hot summer evenings, gossiping and chilling the nights away.
If you’d rather stay dry, a visit to one of the capital’s museums is always a good idea. There are lots to choose from; from the national museum of art – MUŻA – which houses priceless paintings, sculptures, majolica, furniture, and silver by local and international artists, to the formidable Fort St Elmo, home to the national war museum, and from the National Museum of Archaeology, which offers a fascinating introduction to the prehistory and early history of the Maltese islands, spanning around 7,000 years, to Casa Rocca Piccola, a living museum, providing insight into the way Maltese nobility lived through the ages.
It’s early evening by now. Refresh quickly, and catch a show at the wonderful Teatru Manoel, a Baroque wonder of architecture, or at the delightful, open-air theatre space Pjazza Teatru Rjal. Alternatively, head to Spazju Kreattiv to take in some contemporary art.
Dinner time, and you’re spoilt for choice here. Valletta offers a wide range of restaurants, from
Michelin-starred fine dining, to experimental, ethnic, continental, Italian, local and more. You will find a tonne of recommendations about restaurants in Valletta, which you can consider according to your tastes.
And what better way to conclude the day than with a long drink at one of the several bars in the charming streets leading to the Grand Harbour – the ones in Santa Lucia Street are especially welcoming and guaranteed to send you home with the biggest smile you sported of late!
Valletta takes its name from the Grand Master of the Order of St John who had the vision to transform the previously baron peninsula, into a modern Renaissance city that would be the pride of the Hospitaller Order. The Knights had just overcome their most significant challenge to date – the Great Siege of 1565, which put everything on the line for the tiny island. However, supported by the stoic perseverance of the locals, they emerged stronger than ever, determined to carve their place in history – and boy did they manage! On 28th March 1566, the Grand Master laid the first stone of the new city where today stands the church dedicated to Our Lady of Victories, and the rest is history.
What better way to conclude the day than with a long drink at one of the several bars in the charming streets leading to the Grand Harbour.
The Farsons Brewery Experience celebrates the intimate link between Farsons and Malta’s history. EDWARD BONELLO explores how.
Few businesses can boast multiple links to the cultural identity of a country. Fewer even manage to maintain that link for many decades, developing it into an unmistakable testament to local history, widely recognised and loved by the entire population.
Of course, we are referring to the distinctive Farsons Group, together with its many iconic brands such as CISK and Kinnie – as Maltese and evocative of home as pastizzi and the Maltese Cross. And it is precisely this bonanza of Maltese culture that the newly-opened The Brewhouse celebrates.
Starting from the building that houses The Farsons Brewery Experience overlooking the historical aqueduct – itself a feat of early 17th-century architecture and engineering – it has, over the past few years, undergone a complete transformation. With the construction of a brand new, state-of-the-art brewery close by, the five-storey Art Deco landmark is now home to a buzzing social setting, as it is quickly becoming a social hub this side of the island.
You can expect to have more than just a great time with friends here. You can also take a trip down memory lane and learn about how your favourite beer came to be.
In fact, Farsons wasn’t always the entrepreneurial giant we know today. Our journey begins at the start of the 19th century when the British introduced beer to the Maltese islands. A refreshing beer and the Maltese summer sun were
a match made in heaven, so soon enough, Malta had its first locally-produced ales and lagers.
The Farsons story is intrinsically linked with that of three entrepreneurial families – Simonds, Farrugia and Scicluna – and a story that’s intimately intertwined with that of the Maltese islands and the entire region; from the First World War which saw Malta famously becoming the Nurse of the Mediterranean, receiving hundreds of injured soldiers, to the 1919 Sette Giugno riots (when the Maltese people revolted against the British administration and demanded some form of representative government for the island) which were a major game-changer for all.
The Simonds and Farrugia families merged in 1929, and were joined by the Scicluna family in 1948 to form Simonds Farsons Cisk, effectively giving birth to one of Malta’s industrial powerhouses.
Apart from the historical aspect of Malta’s love affair with the liquid gold, you will also see relics of an age gone by, such as the original Scammel Scarab which up to the mid-20th century used to do the rounds delivering beer and happiness around the island – reportedly even down the dodgy Strada Stretta steps of Valletta!
Next it’s time to learn more about beer and the magic behind it: how four humble ingredients –malt, hops, yeast and water – come together in an age-old recipe, to become a long-time favourite.
If after the visit you find yourself hankering for the brew, fear not, as the good folks at The Farsons Brewery Experience have you sorted. In fact, what better way to conclude the trip than to head up to the Cisk Tap to savour some award-winning CISK or Blue Label, or whichever potion you prefer!
Before leaving, make sure to visit the Farsons Brandstore and get your hands on some exclusive merchandise to remember your visit by. Take Farsons and its iconic brands back home with you, and you too will carry a small piece of Malta wherever you go!
In July 1607, Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio arrived in Malta, a fugitive from the papal state, and, in the 15 months he was here, he created monumental works which are breath-taking in their scope and imagination. Here, REBECCA ANASTASI speaks to PROF. KEITH SCIBERRAS, from the Department of Art History at the University of Malta, and the island’s resident expert on the artist, to discover what makes Caravaggio’s works revolutionary.
The early 17th century in Europe was a time of shifting sands, and the assertion of dogmatic power. England had just mourned the passing of the iconic monarch Queen Elizabeth I, who died in 1603, while, in Rome, Pope Paul V upheld the dominance of the church through emphatic rule. In Malta, the Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of Saint John had firmly established itself, having arrived in 1530. It was also a time of scientific progress, which, somewhat, served as a counterpoint to religious creed: Galileo Galilei’s planetary discoveries, and his emphasis on mathematics to solve the mysteries of nature, would pave the way for a full acceptance of a heliocentrism.
In art, the Baroque movement offered an intense visual experience of the divine, challenging it and bringing it down to the streets. Michelangelo Merisi, born in the Lombard town of Caravaggio, which gave him his nom de pinceau, was at the heart of this artistic genre. His arrival in Malta in 1607, fleeing Rome following a fight which resulted in the
death of a young man, left a lasting impact which reverberated not only on the island, but across the artistic world.
“Few are the artists, in the entire story of art, who single-handedly changed the course of history,” says Professor Keith Sciberras, from the Department of Art History at the University of Malta. “Usually, a particular artistic style is changed though the effort of a number of individuals over a long stretch of time. But Caravaggio managed to revolutionise the evolution of art, over the course of only approximately 15 years, from the 1590s until his death in 1610.” Indeed, Prof. Sciberras continues, Caravaggio’s impact is still felt today, and across all creative forms, including the seventh art, film, since early cinematography was inspired by the realism of his work, as well as his articulation of the chiaroscuro
“Caravaggio was a naturalist artist. He painted what he saw, but his work goes beyond the natural, by depicting the deep tragedies of humankind. He did not just paint his subjects, but he injected
that subject with an aura of life itself,” Prof. Sciberras elaborates, adding that the protagonists of his art were those he encountered in his day-to-day life; the people on the streets. “He painted reality because he lived that reality. He was deeply immersed in the tragedies of poverty, and he sought to find the spirituality within the actions of the poor.”
In this way, he broke away from the traditions of the religious art of his day. “In Christian art, the classical notion, which was found in antiquity and through to the Renaissance, was rooted in the representation of the Ideal. In other words, there were established iconographical parameters on painting the Madonna, for instance. The Madonna was deemed to be so perfect, that you could not find her in nature. However, Caravaggio rejected this belief. He posed the question: why can’t a woman living on the streets of Rome represent the Madonna? This caused a stir since the authorities of the day saw his approach as a challenge towards the artistic hegemony of what church art was thought to be.”
In his work, Caravaggio never compromised and never relented, Prof. Sciberras attests. “He pursued his artistic vision, despite the controversy that his life and paintings created. He was a rebel in the sense that he actively and intellectually challenged the parameters of ‘official art’,” he continues. This made him many enemies, both within the artistic community itself, as well as with powerful figures, some of whom were his patrons. “There are stories where Caravaggio reveals these major canvases, they’re displayed on altars in Rome, but are pulled down on the instructions of cognoscenti who take offence at what they deemed vulgar. Despite this, he did not back down, but he continued to pursue his philosophical approach and its stylistic elaboration. In many ways, Caravaggio should be considered as one of the greatest of modern painters for he produced art for himself, as an expression of himself, without making compromises as a result of pressure from the establishment.”
The turbulent circumstances of the artist’s life may have also impacted the reception of his work both then, and now, in the present day. “Caravaggio arrived here in Malta as a fugitive from papal Rome. He came to an island where the Grand Master was actually subject to the Pope, so, technically, he should have been arrested as soon as he stepped foot here and sent back. But, the story of Caravaggio in Malta becomes one in which the power of his brush becomes stronger than the circumstances of his lifestyle. The Knights of Malta became his new
protectors; they saw him as an artistic genius and were happy to negotiate with the Pope, on his behalf, for an eventual pardon.”
Caravaggio was only in Malta for 15 months, but, in that time, he painted a number of works: the monumental The Beheading of St John the Baptist (1608) and Saint Jerome Writing (1607), which are both still here on the island; Portrait of Alof de Wignacourt and his Page (1608) which is housed at the Louvre in Paris; as well as Portrait of Fra Antonio Martelli (1608) and Sleeping Cupid (1608) which are both housed at Palazzo Pitti in Florence.
“I have no problem with saying that what happened in Malta in 1608, the year during which Caravaggio contributed these works, was one of the greatest humanist moments in the story of Maltese art. This was when the Knights of Malta protected art, and sought to celebrate it, despite the clear difficulties which the artist’s personal life presented. But, they saw Caravaggio’s work as a means by which their role as patrons would be glorified,” Prof. Sciberras states.
The Beheading of St John the Baptist, housed in the Oratory of St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta, is one of Caravaggio’s most poignant and powerful works, Prof. Sciberras shares. “This is a site-specific picture, meaning it was always planned to be positioned at the Oratory and this is where it is homed till this day. So, this gives us added value since we can directly relate to the artist and the way in which he
wanted us to experience the protagonist of his work, within the setting of this church.”
And, while The Beheading exhibits the gritty realism which characterised much of Caravaggio’s works, it is more than the sum of its parts. “The Beheading is not a work which should remain bound to the physical eye, so to speak, but it’s a work which needs to be experienced. The representation is heartrending in its realism. And you need to see this work with your mind’s eye, and think about its philosophical, religious, historical and cultural contexts; The Beheading says much more than what is immediately visible. It’s not a decorative picture, but it possesses an aura which anchors the spectator within the visual customs of the period during which it was produced. It seems as though the execution is happening on a theatre stage. Now, we should also keep in mind how early 17th century audiences would have seen this, and not how we do, 400 years later. We should keep in mind that they would never have seen anything so realistic, and on such a scale. This is why works of art need to be seen contextually, by truly understanding the period in which they were produced,” Prof. Sciberras insists.
This is the only painting Caravaggio actually signed, Prof. Sciberras explains. “He signed the work as Frater Michelangelo, in the blood of John, and he did not do this as the work’s artist – he never actually felt the need to sign his works – but he did this as a Knight. This marks
a very important moment in his life for he arrived in Malta as a fugitive seeking protection, and, just a year later, he was accepted and given a Knighthood.” Caravaggio’s talent was his ticket towards acceptance, for his work was admired by powerful patrons who “went beyond their call of duty to protect him,” Prof. Sciberras says, adding that, had he lived longer, he would have surely been given a Papal pardon.
Within the Oratory, Prof. Sciberras points to the power of Saint Jerome Writing, which he says, also epitomises the revolutionary work of Caravaggio. “This painting is a typical quadro di galleria – a gallery picture made for a private home – and it was, indeed, made for one of his protectors, a Knight called Ippolito Malaspina. This was a very powerful name on the island, and the two were very well acquainted. Saint Jerome represents this patron in some ways: he is depicted as a realist, elderly figure, with his sagging flesh and his beaten, sunken forehead. But, this figure is given the dignity of a great scholar, and this is what made Caravaggio special – his ability and desire to go beyond established norms.”
Sadly, Caravaggio’s stay in Malta came to a quick end when, in 1608, he was involved in another fight, which left another Knight wounded. Caravaggio was arrested and thrown into prison at Fort St Angelo. However, just two weeks later, he escaped, only to emerge in Sicily, in the town of Syracuse where, once again, he was welcomed for his star power. “When faced with a double fugitive, what did the authorities there in Syracuse do? They fetched their largest canvas and asked him to paint the patron saint of the city for their church, the most venerated place they possessed.”
The story of Caravaggio in Malta becomes one in which the power of his brush becomes stronger than the circumstances of his lifestyle.
Malta’s restaurant scene has undergone a dramatic transformation in recent years with the arrival of Michelin raising the bar for fine-dining establishments across the island, presenting both opportunities and challenges. DEAN MUSCAT speaks with six of the island’s leading Chef Patrons to uncover their insights, challenges and hopes for fine dining in Malta… and also their own favourite dining spots.
“Our concept at The Golden Fork is to express Maltese traditional cooking in a contemporary and refined way. I use complex transformation techniques to create apparently simple dishes that are immediately recognisable but new at the same time. Our commitment to sustainability extends beyond our menu as we promote local ingredients and dishes. The modern-day restaurant has evolved to become more than just a place to eat. It’s an immersive experience that encompasses not only the food but also the impact it has on the environment and community.
As many people know, restaurants the world over are facing extreme challenges, including news that legendary restaurant Noma is to close its doors. I believe this is worrying for the fine-dining scene. But we need to keep focused to manage our businesses efficiently to survive. In Malta, we face the additional challenge of fostering and retaining top talent amid fierce competition from other countries. At The Golden Fork, we strive to create a fun and attractive working environment, offering competitive salaries and guaranteed time off. I believe in investing in our youth and providing them with opportunities to gain valuable experiences locally.
In my opinion, dining is like high fashion for clothing or F1 racing for cars. It’s something that’s always going to be around. People don’t just go to restaurants to fill their stomachs; they go for the whole experience. That’s why it’s crucial for us to stay open-minded and find solutions even in tough times. It’s what sets fine-dining establishments apart, being able to differentiate ourselves and give our guests a unique experience they won’t forget.”
“I believe that a great restaurant is one that has a unique identity which sets it apart in the culinary world. At Briju, we strive to create dishes that offer diners homely satisfaction and a welcoming experience that is quintessentially Briju. Inspiration for my cooking comes from various sources, be it the international culinary scene, new cookbooks, or even recipes I love to experiment with at home. But I also believe that creating a restaurant’s identity is a natural process that cannot be forced. It is important to recognise that every member of the kitchen and service team brings something unique to the table, and the restaurant needs to reflect that. I’m excited to see how Briju will continue to evolve in the coming years.
“Over the last few years, the local restaurant industry has had its share of ups and downs, with challenges such as rising costs, inflation, and a lack of quality local produce due to the struggles farmers and producers are facing. However, as restaurant owners, I ultimately believe that it is our responsibility to find creative ways to make our own business models work. The government was helpful
during the COVID-19 period, but we cannot rely on outside help indefinitely. It is my hope that local restaurants will continue to push forward and innovate, potentially attracting better-quality talent from abroad, which will help solve our staff shortage problems while bringing new approaches to the industry.”
“We’ve always had great food in Malta, but over the last few years the culinary scene has improved drastically thanks to the arrival of Michelin on the island. With more diners now looking for good-quality food made with quality ingredients, we’re moving in the right direction. However, while our fine-dining scene has come a long way, we still have a way to go to catch up with top culinary destinations like London and Paris. While I hope for a future where local diners are more open to experimental menus and cooking processes, such as a carte blanche dining experience, the reality is that many still gravitate towards traditional options like pasta and beef. It presents a challenge for us as chefs to strike a balance between offering new and exciting dining experiences while still catering to the tastes of our customers.
“The recent trend of no-shows is another challenge that we’re facing. It’s simply disrespectful. As a small restaurant, a single no-show can have a significant impact on our
business. Despite these challenges, I try to remain optimistic about the future. Personally, I will continue to work towards my dream of Rebekah’s becoming the first Michelin-star restaurant in the north of Malta. But it’s not an easy job and requires a lot of hard work and sacrifice. I worry that the younger generation of chefs may be put off by these tough working conditions and lack of respect. That’s why we need to continue to inspire younger chefs to enter the industry to keep our local culinary scene alive and evolving.”
“At Noni, our cooking style is primarily influenced by our Maltese and Mediterranean cultural traditions, with a touch of modern refinement. I like to take inspiration from the memories of my mother and grandmother’s home-cooked meals and give them a playful twist. Our aim is to make every guest feel welcome, as if they’ve just walked into a traditional Maltese home. When coming up with new dishes,
I find inspiration in everything – nature, ingredients, seasons, memories, and even my travels.
Of course, running a restaurant is never easy, and we currently face many pressing challenges like staff shortages, escalating costs and high property rentals. But with a positive attitude and a willingness to find solutions, I believe you can overcome most obstacles. At the end of the day, being a chef and restaurateur is all about passion, and without that drive to create something special for our customers, there would be no reason to open a restaurant at all.
Passion is really crucial to succeeding in this industry. There will always be challenges, but if you fundamentally don’t have a love for food and how dining can impact people, there’s really no point in opening a restaurant at all. It’s also important to remain responsive to the current market and be proactive in addressing challenges. I remain optimistic about the future of the local culinary scene. By taking care of our customers and providing them with unique dining experiences, we can ensure an exciting future for restaurants and diners alike.”
“Throughout my career, I’ve been fortunate to learn from some of the most talented chefs in Malta, including Victor Borg and Joe Vella. These chefs taught me the art of culinary creation, but also the hard realities of operating a fine-dining restaurant. The sacrifices and time required to establish my own restaurant, Scala, have taken a toll on my personal life, especially when important family occasions coincide with restaurant obligations.
While I believe Michelin has had a positive impact on the local culinary scene, achieving a star is only the beginning of the challenge. It’s essential to maintain consistency in delivering an exceptional dining experience that encompasses food, service and ambience to retain a Michelin status. Furthermore, I believe that Malta might have already reached its limit
of Michelin-starred restaurants. This may come across as a controversial view, but I question whether fine dining is genuinely profitable in Malta. With the small size of the island, sustaining so many fine-dining restaurants may be difficult. And as a chef who aspires to offer diners a fine-dining experience, I am curious to see whether there is sufficient demand to keep such restaurants alive.”
“My love for cooking is rooted in the most basic method of food preparation: cooking over an open flame. This idea inspired the concept behind my restaurant, Azar, which offers a different take on modern dining in Malta. We specialise in open-fire cooking, cold smoking and hot smoking, and draw from a mix of international influences. My passion for creating new dishes is inspired by the books I read but also the places I travel to. Wherever I go, I love to meet people, learn about their unique food cultures, try different street food, and incorporate all these elements into my cooking.
“The introduction of Michelin to Malta has been a healthy challenge for all of us as it pushes us to be better. However, I believe that more needs to be done to support local producers to ensure that the quality and consistency of the ingredients we use in our restaurants are maintained at the highest level possible. Staffing also continues to be a problem. And while it’s important to attract talent from abroad to tackle the issue, it’s equally essential to ensure that foreign nationals possess a solid level of proficiency in the English language. Perhaps an English proficiency test could be incorporated into the visa application process to ensure that our service workers can provide a more enjoyable dining experience for visitors and locals alike.
“Despite the challenges posed by the pandemic and rising costs, I remain optimistic that the worst is behind us and that we’re starting to see an upward trend. As more tourists and diners return, I believe that the summer season will bring a further boost to the industry.”
It’s holiday time, and the only items that should be on your agenda right now are rest, relaxation and recreation. Are you ready to soak up the sun in the Mediterranean? Well, you’re not ready until you’ve checked out our list of summer must-haves which you might need throughout your stay on the Maltese islands, and which may all be purchased at the airport’s retail outlets.
Shoes? Check. Swimwear? Check. An extra beach towel to lay on and dry off after swimming? You might want to check out Agenda Bookshop’s Dock and Bay microfiber towel collection, which comes in an array of colours and caters for all ages. While you’re at the bookshop, you might also want to check out the latest beach reads to hit the shelves.
Cloudless skies are the norm in the summer on the Maltese islands, so you’re going to need some serious sun protection before your beach day. Stock up on sunblock with high SPF from the airport’s WHSmith outlet or the airport pharmacy. You might also want to invest in a good
pair of sunglasses from the HEBE outlet on Level 0 to protect your eyes against the sun’s UV rays.
You’re also going to need an insulated cup to stay hydrated in the heat, so check out the stock of thermal cups and bottles at Costa Coffee inside the Check-In Hall to keep your drinks cool on the go. Last but not least, get hold of a comfortable bag to carry your beach essentials around with you. Samsonite’s Securipak backpacks are not only lightweight but are also equipped with a convenient USB port and are made from 100 per cent recycled PET material.
Between the weekly village feasts, the sporadic wine, beer and food festivals, and the vast array of parties which are organised on a regular basis on the islands, the vibrant nightlife in Malta and Gozo is definitely something to look forward to.
As with any other events, you’re going to want to look and feel your best. Pair your fresh tan with a naturally cool, fresh-faced make-up look and a couple of spritzes of a fragrance that smells just like summer. Head to WHSmith on Level 0, and you’ll be spoiled for choice on both fronts.
Speaking of looking your best, we can’t leave out the arm candy, can we? From dainty bracelet collections for women to a fantastic range of watches for men, there really is something for everyone at HEBE. Complete the look by splashing out on a new leather wallet or a chic handbag from Samsonite.
Despite their relatively small size, there’s a lot to see and do on the Maltese islands, so you’ll probably be moving around a fair bit throughout your stay here. In this case, we’d recommend travelling light and only carrying the essentials around with you.
As the weather can be hot and humid during the day, wear breathable, lightweight clothing and a good pair of shoes that will help you stay comfortable. Speaking about comfort, consider investing in a good bum bag from Samsonite which is not only a more compact and secure alternative to a backpack or handbag, but will also allow you to keep your hands free, which could be especially useful when exploring a new place.
At Agenda Bookshop inside the Check-In Hall, you’ll also find some smaller items which might enhance your sightseeing experience, including power banks, insulated water bottles that you can refill throughout the day, as well as guidebooks to help you find your way around the country.
So, your holiday has come to its inevitable end, but you’ve got a tonne of memories (and some truly unique souvenirs) to take back home with you. Ditch the usual airport chocolates and treat yourself to something a bit more high-end this time around. Sunday in Scotland’s artisanal chocolate falcon is definitely something you won’t find anywhere else, but you could also opt for smaller yet equally delicious treats, including delectable nut spreads, intricate chocolate boxes and a variety of fresh cakes and cookies.
You’ll also be able to find souvenirs with a more local feel at Departures. In fact, there’s an entire Spirit of Malta section inside the airport’s Dufry outlet which stocks everything from Maltese sea salt to the locally hand-crafted Nemnem candles.
If you’d like to splurge on something you can wear, you might want to check out the jewellery collections inspired by Maltese heritage at HEBE or rock an exclusive Malta top from Hard Rock Café. … And we didn’t even mention the best part. If you’re travelling to a non-Schengen country, anything you purchase after the security checks will be tax-free!
REBECCA ANASTASI confers with fashion gurus CARINA CAMILLERI, MALCOLM GAUCI and LEAH CAMENZULI on this season’s latest trends, for both men and women.
The start of a new and warmer season is always accompanied by a sense of anticipation, particularly in the fashion department, as we are shorn of our winter thick jumpers, coats and woollies. It is, indeed, the time to dust away the mothballs, spruce up our wardrobes, and bring out our colourful cottons. But, what does this spring and early summer have in store for us? Will we be wearing floral dresses, or plain skater skirts? Easy-going linen
suits or more structured affairs? Shorts or trousers? The choices seem endless.
“This season for me is about less is more: vests, jeans, Balenciaga sneakers or high heels, as well as an overall white look, which looks effortless, but always with an edge,” says stylist Carina Camilleri, a well-known name in Malta’s fashion scene, having also founded the local modelling agency, Models M. Silver, she continues, is a key trend, sure to “uplift one’s wardrobe instantly”.
Cargo pants and skirts, as seen on the Versace runway, will dominate, as will lace and denim. In terms of colour, pastels and green are leading the way, Carina says, with blue hues and bright tones also making a splash this season. Sculptural handbags, such as those seen at Fendi, and Jill Sander party purses will also be on the arms of anyone in the know. And, as the weather becomes warmer, open sandals, whether flats or the “highest of heels” will be favoured.
There are a lot of “comebacks” this season, Carina continues, although the quality will have also improved from previous iterations – “the leather is, now, wafer-thin, and synthetics feel more like silk,” she describes. And, while trends can be fun, Carina insists on feeling comfortable in your own skin. After all, “style is the ability to express oneself and to look effortlessly good. You do not need to follow trends – style is something you either have or you don’t. It’s timeless,” she says.
Malcolm Gauci, a 27-year-old multi-awardwinning fashion stylist, content creator – and social worker – also points to the cyclical nature of fashion: styles from previous eras are “reimagined to make them relevant again.
This season for me is about less is more: vests, jeans, Balenciaga sneakers or high heels, as well as an overall white look, which looks effortless, but always with an edge.
CARINA CAMILLERIValentino Resort Carina Camilleri. Photo: Kurt Paris
They are frequently revisited and updated to create a fresh and modern look that captures the essence of the past while still feeling current and exciting.”
This season, indigo denim – “which is very reminiscent of Y2K” – as well as grunge-inspired looks, and cut-out styles, “designed to keep you cool and sweat a little less”, will dominate. And, “don’t forget that silver is the new cool so keep your gold dresses tucked away till next season,” he smiles.
I love seeing people express their personality and creativity through their clothing choices, and I believe that true style comes from being confident in your own unique taste.
MALCOLM GAUCIReiss Silver loafers Malcolm Gauci. Photo: Gary Bugeja
In terms of accessories, florals are the way to go: “rosettes, floral chokers and brooches are particularly in-demand because they add a touch of natural beauty and elegance to any outfit,” Malcolm says.
On his end, he will “definitely be keeping an eye out for Y2K-inspired denim pieces as it’s an era that I grew up in and holds a lot of nostalgia for me. If indigo denim isn’t your thing, I recommend looking out for clothing in purple, blue and pink hues, which are all also set to be big this year,” he continues.
Individuality must take priority, however, he says. “I love seeing people express their personality and creativity through their clothing choices, and I believe that true style comes from being confident in your own unique taste. While it’s important to stay up-todate with current fashion trends, I think it’s even more important to stay true to yourself and wear what makes you feel good.”
Fashion influencer, fitness trainer and retired flight attendant, Leah Camenzuli, agrees. “Style is the way someone expresses themselves through aesthetic
I think it’s going to be a really fun and flirty season.
LEAH CAMENZULIElise Tsikis Sezane Leah Camenzuli
choices such as their clothing, accessories, hairstyle, and the way they put an outfit together.” Echoing Carina, she also says that “style is timeless. It’s important to remember someone who is stylish may not necessarily follow current ‘fashion trends’ but they always stay true to their own aesthetic, carrying it with confidence.”
Looking ahead to this season, Leah foresees “lots of colour”, pastels and florals – “I think it’s going to be a really fun and flirty season.” Nail art, gold statement jewellery and cute boxy statement bags will be de rigueur, she says, adding, “I’m a firm believer that the minimalist sandal will never go out of style.” Comfortable, understated and practical are three words she styles by.
Like Malcolm, she notes that Y2K fashion trends are back, but she also senses that the ‘90s will return “with a 2023 twist: headbands, and double denim creeping out from the woodwork, as well as glitter make-up styles. I feel as though people are really finding their individual takes on current styles rather than absorbing trends, which is amazing to see.”
On a personal note, Leah will be opting for “funsleeved floral dresses which I LOVE to pair with a pair of white trainers. This is pretty textbook, in terms of my usual style. I’m always on the lookout for cute denim shorts, which are a wardrobe must-have for those warmer months.”
JIMMY CHOO
Ballet Pink Patent Leather Mules with Crystal Strap
The Bing 100 mule in ballet pink patent leather is modern and stylish. It features a crystal strap across the top of the foot for a hint of elegant glamour. Pair with a little black dress for a striking look.
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Sculpture Shoulder Bag
Crafted in pure ivory nappa leather. Adjustable top handle with V-shaped buckle, detachable and adjustable shoulder strap, shaped flap closure, magnetic fastening, internal slip pockets, platinum-toned metal hardware, lined.
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Slim-Fit Suit in a Linen Blend
An elegant, two-piece suit with silk-blend trims by BOSS Menswear. Ideal for evening events and other special occasions, this distinctive suit is crafted in a linen blend containing stretch for comfort in movement. This ensemble is offered in a streamlined fit and lined with signature material.
BOSS
Interlock-Cotton Polo Shirt with Contrast Tipping
A short-sleeved polo shirt in a regular fit by BOSS Menswear. Featuring striped tipping for a colourful touch, this modern polo shirt is crafted in interlock material made from pure cotton for comfort. A BOSS logo print completes this piece.
BOSS Contrast-Logo Swim Shorts In Recycled Material
DOLCE & GABBANA
White Dress with Floral Motif
Made of cotton, this style showcases a colourful floral print. It features a side zipper with a hook and eye closure, one denuded shoulder, decorative draping, silk lining and a single back vent.
DOLCE & GABBANA
A three-piece dinner suit by Dolce & Gabbana featuring peak lapels, chest welt pocket, long sleeves, buttoned cuffs, front button fastening, front flap pockets, central rear vent, sleeveless, two front welt pockets, belt loops, concealed front fastening, two side slit pockets, two rear welt pockets and pressed crease.
ZEGNA
Triple Stitch Low Top Sneakers
These contemporary, fully-lined swim shorts by BOSS are crafted in quick-drying material for easy care, and feature an elasticated waistband, sporty piping and a contrasting BOSS logo. As a RESPONSIBLE product, this garment is made from at least 60 per cent certified recycled polyester which is an artificial fibre made from oil-based waste such as old PET bottles. BOSS only uses raw materials with a verified chain of custody to ensure the use of certified recycled polyester.
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Zegna began with a vision and a dream of transforming ideas into fabrics, weaving a forest, community and style of life. Bicolour Leather Sneaker is featured with durable genuine leather upper, top and back decorated with contrast colouring, low top styling, round toeline, soft and comfortable rubber sole, and brand printed insole.
Since Malta joined the European Union almost 20 years ago, and later adopted the euro, the islands have been punching above their weight when it comes to attracting foreign investment to their shores.
The country has evolved into a trans-continental hub for trade, a popular tourism destination and a top performer in high-tech industries such as high value-added manufacturing, aviation maintenance, financial services, iGaming, cryptocurrency,
shipping, and emerging technologies, including Artificial Intelligence. This high-paced activity has attracted an influx of expats, who contribute to render the social and economic landscape truly exciting, diverse and cosmopolitan – could you be the next to join?
Whether you’re searching for a fresh start in life, or simply looking to grow your business, Malta could be the steppingstone you’ve been waiting for. But before you make the move, here are some things you need to know.
With a well-established regulatory environment based on EU law, a favourable tax regime, attractive Government incentives, and a well-educated and highly motivated workforce, Malta can be a very attractive place for a foreigner to set up a business. Doing business in Malta does not only mean access to trade in the EU, but also gaining access to Africa and the Middle East, as Malta has developed healthy business ties and beneficial fiscal agreements with various countries in these two regions too. For those who wish to start a business in Malta, there are seven stages to keep in mind:
A limited liability company gives your business a more trusted face and protects you as a shareholder in case of defective products or lawsuits. On the other hand, there are more bureaucratic steps to follow when creating such a company (as opposed to starting a business as a self-employed person), such as undergoing an annual audit, so make sure your business is viable before registering it as LTD. You need to be at least two shareholders to register a company.
2. 3.
If you are going to proceed with a limited liability company, then you need to draft the company’s memorandum and articles of association. These documents are important for registration, but they also detail what the company, its shareholders and its directors can and cannot do. It is important to identify the right legal firm, accountancy and audit firms, as well as business consultants to guide you during this stage.
Every company needs some capital to start off, however small. As a new business owner, you need to open a bank account in the company’s name and inform the bank that you are depositing your share capital. The money will go into a holding account until the company is properly registered. The receipt issued will need to be presented in the next stage.
4.
The filled-in company registration form, together with the memorandum and articles of association and the share capital deposit slip need to be presented to the Malta Business Registry. Registration is done within two to three days and the registration fee depends on the size of the company.
Once the trade name is approved and the memorandum and articles of association are filed with the Malta Business Registry, the company is almost ready to start operating. However, before that, one must also check if any special licences are required. Furthermore, each business in Malta must have a tax identification number. While this is free of charge to obtain, once a year you will need to fill in a tax return form. This is another step where the assistance of a trusted accountant, audit or legal firm is invaluable.
You also need to register with the VAT Department to obtain a VAT number. Furthermore, if you have a limited liability company and you intend on hiring personnel, you also need to register as an employer and obtain a PE number. Both steps are free of charge and can be carried out online.
Jobsplus is responsible for all employment registration in Malta. You need to fill in a form for each employee upon registration, and again upon termination of each employee. The process is quick and free of charge.
Government department Business First can help you with all of these steps, and can be easily reached through their website, www.businessfirst.com.mt, or over email.
Once you’ve decided to move to Malta, you’ll set about finding the perfect property for you and your family, or the new headquarters for your business. But what will that involve?
• The cost of living in Malta remains lower than most European countries, but rent has become more expensive in recent years. You can expect to pay at least €1,000 for a flat in a central part of the island, and far more if it’s in one of the more in-demand locations such as Sliema or St Julian’s. Office or commercial spaces have seen less of a spike in prices, but as with homes, are largely dependent on location.
• Most people start their search through a property agency, of which there are countless ones on the island. Some specialise in commercial properties, others in residential. It’s worth noting that many properties are listed with several estate agents, so you may end up viewing the same property several times if you’re not careful.
• Once you’ve viewed a few different properties, settled on one that you want to buy, and your offer has been accepted, you will be asked to sign a promise of sale, known in Maltese as a konvenju. This is a legally binding agreement between you and the seller, and will involve a notary public.
• At this point you are obliged to pay 1 per cent of the 5 per cent provisional stamp duty. The total sum is payable upon completion of the sale. You will also need to pay a deposit which is usually around 10 per cent of the agreed sale price.
• You don’t need a permit to buy a house here unless it’s a secondary residence. But if you are not a citizen of an EU country, then you will need an Acquisition of Immovable Property in Malta by NonResidents Permit (AIP).
• You must also obtain a permit if you are considering renting your property as a holiday home, and any earnings must be declared to the authorities for tax purposes.
While Malta is a tiny island, slow-moving traffic during peak hours, reliance on private cars, and vast differences between one area of the island and another make it necessary to think deeply about what you want from your new hometown. Here’s a guideline of what to expect from different parts of Malta.
The natural choice for most expats. These two towns have a large expat community, an exciting social life, and are close to many businesses and places of work. However, they’re the most expensive addresses in Malta, and if you’re looking for a quiet place to settle down, they’re probably not it.
Population
519,562
The capital city of Malta has undergone a renaissance in recent years, and it is now one of the most exciting places to be. All buses end their journey in Valletta, so public transport to and from here is excellent. However, be prepared to pay – it’s not cheap. The neighbouring suburb of Floriana may have more reasonably priced options.
These towns are located in the middle of the island and have good transport links to most other towns and villages in the island. Prices are moderate, and they are mostly residential, perfect for raising a family.
Plenty of expats – particularly from the UK – live in these towns. Since both of them can be considered resort towns, it’s worth noting that they get particularly hectic in summer with the influx of tourists, but are much quieter throughout the rest of the year.
The southern part of the island is worth considering if you’d like to live in a charming, traditional village or town. Having your own transport becomes essential in this case, and learning at least a few words and phrases in Maltese will endear you to the local, closeknit community.
Quiet, peaceful and with plenty of green spaces which Malta is sorely missing, the island of Gozo is accessible via a ferry that leaves Ċirkewwa every 45mins. Since the commute may be tiring to do every day, it’s perfect for retirees, people who are planning to work from home, as well as a holiday residence.
In recent years, Malta has positioned itself as a prime destination for several tech companies looking for a secure, reliable and reputable jurisdiction to base themselves, drawing companies from a wide spectrum of digital and innovative sectors, ranging from blockchain to FinTech to Artificial Intelligence.
Speaking of blockchain, Malta was dubbed as the ‘Blockchain Island’ in 2018, being the first country in the world to issue a comprehensive set of regulations and guidelines on blockchain, Initial Coin Offerings, technology arrangements and financial assets. Today, it is reaping the results of this proactive stance through the establishment of a number of FinTech and crypto companies on the island, while also widening its scope to attract companies that operate in all corners of the digital space.
Three bills were passed into law in 2018 which set up the Malta Digital Innovation Authority (MDIA) Act, the Innovative Technology Arrangements and Services Act (ITASA) and the Virtual Financial Asset (VFA) Act.
The MDIA acts as a communicator between key national bodies such as the Malta Financial Services Authority (MFSA), other relevant Government regulators such as the Malta Gaming Authority (MGA) and operators. It also regulates new and emerging technologies. The ITASA is geared towards regulating technology service providers, while the VFA Act regulates Virtual Financial Assets. Such laws limit the scope for fraudulent activity, provide certainty to investors and also provide a legitimate legal framework in which operators can do business.
Another economic niche creating significant buzz on the islands is Artificial Intelligence, backed by Government’s vision to put Malta on the map with a National Strategy for AI. This includes discussions on the subject with stakeholders to identify policy, regulatory and fiscal measures aimed at strengthening Malta’s appeal as a hub for foreign investment in this sector.
To date, the MDIA has certified three Systems Auditors (SA), the roles of whom are to audit the Innovative Technology Arrangements that an applicant proposes, including those concerning Artificial Intelligence.
Meanwhile, local businesses are starting to make use of AI to trim costs, such as having a chatbot as the first point of contact for customer queries. If you’ve got a healthy risk appetite, investing in AI in Malta in these early stages could ultimately yield excellent results, before competition begins to grow. If you would like to get a better feel for the industry and the network of people within it, keep an eye out for conferences and events on AI that typically take place in Malta between September and November.
A regulatory push for all-things digital makes Esports another niche area with interesting investment options. The vast number of skilled software developers, graphic designers and IT proficient workers makes Malta an attractive option for investors. And with an exciting enough project, it should not be difficult to find skilled workers to fill the roles.
With the global Esports industry projected to reach a global audience of 64.8 million people by 2025, according to Statista, a global provider of market and consumer data, it’s no surprise that Malta has opened its doors to Esports companies just as it did with gaming. While still a budding industry locally, Government’s commitment through ‘Malta’s Vision for Video Games Development and Esports’, launched in May 2019, will help propel this sector forward, with plans to grow it from 0.1 per cent to 1 per cent of the islands’ GDP in 10 years.
Tying all this together is the Maltese Government’s plan and commitment to transform the country’s economy into a digital one in the coming years, enhancing ICT policy
development and implementation that is intended to meet the expectations of citizens, civil society and businesses – and its efforts are paying off.
In the EU’s most recent Digital Economy and Society Index (a composite index that summarises relevant indicators on Europe’s digital performance and tracks the evolution of EU member states in digital competitiveness), published in July 2022, Malta maintained its ranking from 2021 and ranked sixth among 27 countries for its digital performance, which includes connectivity, human capital, use of internet, integration of digital technology, and digital public services. Placing ahead of Estonia, Luxemburg, Austria, Germany, Belgium and many others, Malta is well-positioned to achieve its target of becoming a leader in the digital economy, creating a robust foundation for digital sectors to reap fruit.
With limited resources and land, separating waste at source helps us to reduce the amount of waste that ends up in landfills or that is improperly disposed of. Properly separating waste enables more effective recycling, reducing the need for new raw materials and decreasing the environmental impact of waste disposal and landfills. As of Friday 14th April 2023, Malta introduced new regulations enforcing mandatory waste separation for all.
The regulations are applicable to everyone, including businesses, households, governmental and nongovernmental entities, and follow a nation-wide public consultation held last year.
In a bid to raise awareness on the importance of waste separation, the Environment and Resources Authority (ERA) has embarked on a six-month educational campaign. In parallel, during these six months, enforcement officials will monitor the streets to ensure adherence to the regulations. Then, as of 14th October 2023, fines will also come into force. Anyone caught disposing of waste illegally will receive a warning. Repeat offenders will face fines, starting at €75 for businesses and €25 for households. These will double for repeat offenders.
These regulations step up Malta’s efforts in creating a stronger policy to promote more waste recycling and to drastically reduce mixed waste to landfills by 2035. Adherence to the regulations will also help improve cleanliness in residential areas and commercial districts, and discourage irregular dumping of waste bags in public areas.
Similarly, these regulations seek to support Malta’s efforts in reducing the use of landfills. Currently, 90 per cent of Malta’s municipal waste ends up in landfills, against the 2035 target of 10 per cent.
So, whether you are here for a longer stay, or just on holiday, the Environment and Resources Authority encourages everyone to do their part and dispose of waste properly: separation is easy.
For more information visit wastecollection.mt
the captivating beauty of the natural world,
Originally from Sweden, award-winning nature and wildlife photographer Johan Siggesson’s relationship with the Maltese islands started over 20 years ago, when he came to Malta to study English. “I met a Maltese girl, who would eventually become my wife, and the rest is history,” he smiles, sharing his story from his home studio in Żurrieq.
His interest and passion for animals and the natural world goes back further still – to his childhood days in Sweden, where he would spend much of his time outdoors in nature when he wasn’t glued to the weekly nature programme on state television.
Reading for a bachelor’s degree in informatics, he studied graphic design, photography and 3D design before going on safari for the first time in 2012. “That’s when I really discovered wildlife photography,” he explains. Then, after being involved in the graphic design and travel sectors for a few years, he made the decision to pursue photography full time.
Since then, it’s taken him to some interesting places, though a soft spot for Africa, and the Savannah in particular, remains.
“I had long been fascinated by Africa, and since that first trip in 2012, I’ve been several times. Now, I go more regularly as a photography guide – so I get paid to go,
which is great! This also has its limitations, because you can’t do exactly what you want, but it’s still a great position to be in,” he says, explaining that his passion lies in iconic animals like lions and elephants. “Photographing other animals, birds and insects is also nice, but that is where my true passion lies. My biggest source of income comes from selling my prints, and it is these iconic animals that garner the most interest –luckily, it matches what I want to do!”
Last year, his trips included Uganda, the Kalahari Desert and Japan, and this year, his next trip will be to Kenya, where he will go as a guide.
Speaking of his creative process, Johan explains that with wildlife photography, there are certain limitations, and you can’t set it up like you would a fashion shoot, for example. “You must do your research, and first figure out where to go, depending on what you want to photograph and how you want to photograph it. You must consider things like proximity to the animals, and the environment you’d like for the photos. Then, once you’re there, you can’t instruct animals what to do! You must try to predict it, figure out where the light is, and maximise your chances of getting the shot you want,” he says.
Yet with travel being intrinsic to his process, when COVID-19 ground everything to a halt in 2020, Johan needed to pivot. From this, a fascinating project was born: Where Wild Orchids Grow, an extensive
Some of the orchids look very exotic, and I felt they would be great subject matter for a photography project.
photographic project on Maltese wild orchids which led to a large-scale coffee-table book.
Revealing how this came to fruition, Johan recalls, “I had plans to go on three or four trips that year, and they were all cancelled or postponed. I had never really worked on a project locally, so I decided to do something here, but didn’t know what the focus would be.”
After some research, he discovered and became fascinated by the fact that several orchids’ species grow wild in Malta. “I had lived here for half of my life, but up until that point, I had never heard about them. I bought a guidebook on the subject, and began to delve into it. Some of the orchids look very exotic, and I felt they would be great subject matter for a photography project,” he maintains, going on to learn that the first orchid of the season appears shortly after the first rains, but many are very rare and difficult to come by.
“I began reaching out to people on social media who could help guide me and point me in the right direction, and found a lot of help. I was even taken in person to specific sites were these orchids grow,” he recalls, admitting that it became somewhat of an obsession.
Speaking of the experience of photographing the flowers, and how it differed to his usual process, Johan reveals, “when I photograph animals, I generally do so out of a vehicle, so I set up and don’t move much. The animal is doing things, so I must catch that, but a flower doesn’t do anything, so I had to create different angles and make use of different equipment and lenses. I would go to the same plant on different days and times, in different light and weather conditions. In summer, when the sun is up early, I would be there at 4 or 5 o’clock in the morning, shoot for an hour or two until the light is too harsh, and then get home as the kids start to wake up! It was a very different experience.”
Finding some of the rarer orchids was also not an easy task. While many of them grow in several places across Malta, Pembroke, he says, is one of the best places to find orchids. “One of the most common ones, the Maltese Pyramidal Orchid, grows almost everywhere, in garigue areas. Some are extremely rare though, with only a few such plants across the islands, so you really need to know where to look.”
“I took photos of as many different orchids as I could during orchid season, which lasts from October till April or May. When I started, there were 36 known species of wild orchids, and another was rediscovered through this process, making up a total of 37,” he says.
After taking thousands of photos, he toyed with the idea of putting on an exhibition, until he decided to put
together a book. With his graphic design background, he designed the book himself, had it printed and displayed it at the Malta Book Fair shortly after – bringing the project, which took about a year to complete, to fruition.
Johan’s plan is for this to be the first book in a series he’s calling Marvellous Malta, which will focus on the natural beauty that is all around us. Asked what his next chosen subject will be, the photographer smiles and admits, “I don’t know yet! Putting together a book of this kind is quite an undertaking, and I wanted to give the orchids book its time in the spotlight before embarking on the next project. I’ve been mulling over several subjects though, like wild rabbits, local trees and even seaside subjects, though all have their challenges, and I haven’t settled on one yet.”
shots I ever took was taken with an entry level camera. It’s more about your way of thinking. Then, the more you practice, the more your talent grows.”
“Secondly, you don’t have to go to Africa or Southeast Asia or these exotic places… and that’s part of what I wanted to prove with the orchid book. You can create something good with wildlife and nature photography here in Malta too. So, you can be anywhere, you can have any type of gear, and the more into it you get, the more specialised you will become.”
As for what lies on the horizon for Johan, more solo trips will certainly be in his future. “I want to embark on more trips on my own so I can take unique pictures and focus on one thing for however long I want. In fact, my next trip to Kenya will be nine days dedicated solely to elephants,” he smiles, adding that he’s also looking forward to starting work on his second book, and continuing to showcase the natural beauty of the Maltese islands. Tracing his photographic journey, I ask him about the highlights thus far. Johan humbly attests, “photography is an artform, and I have participated in several competitions, some of them quite prestigious. I’ve done well in these over the years, and that feels good. I think it’s common among creative people to doubt themselves, so when you receive some small recognition, it gives you a boost. But, I have to say that my biggest reward is when someone buys one of my prints to hang on their wall. That’s the ultimate recognition to me.”
Imparting some advice to aspiring photographers, Johan makes a case for giving it a go. “First off, people often think that you need to have very expensive equipment, which is not necessarily true – it sometimes helps, but one of my favourite
In summer, when the sun is up early, I would be there at 4 or 5 o’clock in the morning, shoot for an hour or two until the light is too harsh.
