Malta Insider - International Visitors Guide 2022-2023 by Content House

Malta YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE MALTESE ISLANDS

INTERNATIONAL VISITORS’ GUIDE 2022/2023

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THE THREE CITIES & AROUND

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176 150 CALIN-ANDREI STAN

Discover the best of the Maltese islands

Treasures within the Mdina Cathedral Museum

Where the locals eat (and you should too)

When Mediterranean food meets Maltese flair

Explore the islands’ rich alternative arts scene

Ushering a new standard of living for the Maltese islands

Luxury living made easy

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Bespoke support and partners in growth

84 110 126 136 150 162 176

Valletta St Julian’s The Three Cities & around Sliema & around Mdina, Rabat & around Mellieha, Bugibba & around Gozo & Comino

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THE THREE CITIES & AROUND

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Welcome to the

Maltese islands

Publisher

Content House Group 3, Mallia Building, Triq in-Negozju, Zone 3, Central Business District, Birkirkara CBD 3010, Malta Tel: +356 2132 0713 info@contenthouse.com.mt www.contenthouse.com.mt Malta Insider International Visitors’ Guide 2022/2023 is published and owned by Content House Group Ltd.

Editor Martina Bartolo Parnis Contributors Rebecca Anastasi, Martina Bartolo Parnis, Edward Bonello, Jo Caruana, Isabel Depasquale, Dean Muscat, Sarah Muscat Azzopardi Research Elena Debattista, Lindsey Napier, Sue Ann Pisani

his archipelago found in the heart of the Mediterranean may be tiny, but it’s deceivingly rich in attractions of all kinds – be they impressive, centuries-old buildings, temples and places of worship from the islands’ prehistoric past, splendid beaches that bejewel the coastline, or cultural highlights that uncover the personality of the islands and its inhabitants. To help you sift through it all, look no further than Malta Insider, your local tour guide that will ensure you get the most of your trip. In the 2022/2023 edition of this comprehensive visitors’ guide, we’ve searched far and wide to bring you the best of all that the islands have to offer, from popular visitor attractions to off-the-beaten-track gems that are much loved by locals. Split according to locality, you’ll be able to pick and choose your next place to visit, restaurant or bar to whet your appetite, or accommodation option with ease.

Cover Photography Kurt Arrigo, shot over Comino

If the purpose of your trip to the islands is business rather than leisure, the Business Supplement on page 61 will provide you with a thorough snapshot of Malta’s economy and business environment, including the professional services investors can avail of for an informed and independent view.

Head of Sales & Business Development Marie Claire Camilleri

With all this and much more, we hope Malta Insider will serve you well throughout your stay on the Maltese islands.

Creative Director & Design Nicholas Cutajar

Senior Brand Sales Executive Wanaha Camilleri Director of Operations & Sales Lindsey Napier Head of Digital & Marketing Raisa Mazzola Operations & Client Relationship Manager Elena Debattista Operations & Accounts Manager Sue Ann Pisani

Martina

The choice of establishments listed and recommended in this guide is at the sole discretion of the publisher. Copies of Malta Insider are distributed in the UK by a major international distributor in strategic locations including at select London hotels, top corporate offices and leading companies in the UK, embassies based in London, as well as in airport locations (London Gate Services & Media Walls) in Stansted Express & Gatwick Express. Malta Insider is also distributed free of charge from the offices of the Malta Tourism Authority in Malta and Gozo. The prestigious publication is also distributed at the concierge/lobby reception of select, leading, four- and five-star hotels, as well as at select, highly-rated, boutique hotels around Malta and Gozo. Moreover, the publication is distributed to public entities and ministries, embassies and consulates in the Maltese islands, and it is also sold at leading newsagents in Malta and Gozo. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information contained in the guide, the publishers cannot be held responsible for any errors it may contain.

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DISCOVER THE

BEST OF THE

Maltese islands

Blue Lagoon

PS AIL A

/ST EV EN HE RITAG E MA LTA

Dean Muscat shares his best recommendations for must-dos and off-thebeaten-track gems to visit during your trip, designed to get you well and truly acquainted with the best the Maltese islands have to offer.

Travel back to prehistoric times

If you truly want to get to grips with the richness of Malta’s history, then it’s worth heading on a trip back through the mists of time to explore the islands’ plethora of prehistoric sites, many of which are included on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The neighbouring megalithic temples of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra in Qrendi, together with the Ggantija temples in Xaghra, Gozo are all beautifully preserved and provide a unique insight into the life and customs of the islands’ earliest settlers. Dating back to 3,6003,200BC, these architectural masterpieces are among the most ancient religious landmarks in the world, predating the pyramids of Egypt even. Outside the big three of Malta’s most famous megalithic temples are many other prehistoric ruins scattered around the islands, all of which are equally fascinating and insightful. The Skorba and Hagrat 16 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Hagar Qim Temp

Temples situated on the outskirts of Mgarr shed further light on humankind’s technological evolution at a time when builders had only stone, bone, and wooden tools at their disposal, while the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum in Paola is a subterranean necropolis of interconnected halls, chambers, and passageways hewn out of raw rock. All operated by Heritage Malta – the national agency responsible for museums, conservation practice and cultural heritage – you can purchase site tickets and various combo passes on their official website (www.heritagemalta.mt).

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VI EW IN GM AL

TA .CO M

Go beach hopping

Beach lovers are spoilt for choice with a stunning collection of beaches, coves, and bays dotted all around the archipelago. Ghadira Bay is by far the largest and most popular beach in Malta. It’s especially great for families with young kids thanks to its shallow waters which stretch out a considerable distance from its sandy shore. The Blue Flag Golden Bay, cradled by steep grassy slopes, is another top swimming location. Located on the north-west coast of Malta, it’s an especially magical spot come sundown. For a more secluded swim, you can check out Slugs Slugs Bay Bay. It takes a fair amount of clambering down a rather steep hillside to reach this pocket-sized beach, but it’s well worth the effort. Towards the south of the island is the rather remote St Peter’s Pool, a natural lido flanked by limestone rocks, perfect for leaping into the deep, blue-green waters below. On the sister island of Gozo, Ramla l-Hamra in Xaghra attracts tourists from all over the world thanks to the unusual reddish hue of its crumbly sand. The golden sands of San Blas Bay are crested with verdant countryside, while Dahlet Qorrot is a cute little pebble-strewn cove that’s home to boat houses which have been hewn into the surrounding rockside. Jump on over to the tiny island of Comino for crystalclear water swims in the world-famous Blue Lagoon and the lesser-known Santa Marija Bay.

Dive right in

Malta’s must-see landmarks aren’t limited to the land. Dive into the azure blue of the islands’ waters and you’ll find a dazzling treasure box of dive sites, scuttled shipwrecks, and otherworldly natural formations.

Blue Hole

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Arguably, the archipelago’s top diving site is the famous Blue Hole just off the shores of Dwejra in Gozo. Stretching down to a depth of 15 metres, this limestone sinkhole offers scuba divers a beautiful underwater world of coralcovered archways and windows to explore. Nearby are the recently formed Azure Alps. These fallen ruins of Gozo’s iconic Azure Window created a jagged, mountain range-like topography with a

peak that rises some 12 metres. Other top dive sites include the Finger Reef dive site in Ghar Lapsi, the Cirkewwa Marine Park, and the Santa Marija Caves in Comino. World War II buffs will delight in the many historic ship and aircraft wrecks scattered around Malta’s seabed. Among the highlights are the Junkers JU88 bomber off Salina Bay, the HMD Trusty Star minesweeper off Fort St Elmo in Valletta, and the SS Polynesian troop transport vessel east of Marsascala, among others. For those who don’t hold a scuba diving licence, or who simply don’t have time to explore Malta’s seabed, you can still experience many of the archipelago’s underwater sites thanks to the online Virtual Underwater Museum (underwatermalta.org). Created by an international team of archaeologists, divers and underwater photography specialists, this digital platform takes viewers on a voyage across Malta’s underwater cultural heritage through 360-degree virtual tours, VR experiences, and more.

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San Anton Gardens

Dingli Cliffs

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Head down the garden path

Ramble on in the countryside

While it may be better known for its beaches, Malta is also blessed with stretches of idyllic countryside that offers up a winding ribbon of rubble walls, rich farmland, wayside chapels, breath-taking coastal views, and pretty flora and fauna. There’s a constellation of walking trails to choose from in Malta’s northern region which are perfect for hikers of all levels. Starting from the outskirts of Rabat you can head all the way down to Girgenti and the unspoilt valleys of Wied il-Hesri and Wied Xkora in Siggiewi. The shaded woodlands of Buskett Gardens make for a fantastic day out for all the family, while Dingli Cliffs – officially the highest point on the island – are popular for leisurely walks with gorgeous views of the islet of Filfla.

At the heart of Malta’s Three Villages (Attard, Lija and Balzan) lies San Anton Gardens, a beautifully tended public garden that dates back to the period of the Knights of St John. Here, ducks, chickens, and peacocks roam freely around the colourful flowerbeds and melodious ponds. The nearby President’s Kitchen Garden is ideal for young families with kids who’ll love the fun play areas and small petting zoo. The Garden of Serenity in Santa Lucija is a little oasis of calm that takes its cues from Chinese culture. With its fountains and walledoff mini gardens, which can be entered through intricately designed doorways, the garden is a perfect spot for some peace and quiet. Gnien l-Gharusa, on the outskirts of Mosta, is a charming public garden that commands stunning views over the villages of Bidnija, Wardija, and Burmarrad. The garden is linked to a popular Maltese legend of a local bride who was kidnapped by Turkish pirates and who was later rescued by her groom who disguised himself as a wool merchant and set sail to Turkey in pursuit.

Gozo, with its three emerald hilltops, offers up an equally picturesque rural wonderland. The outskirts of Nadur and Dwejra are a nature lover’s paradise, while the peaceful little village of Gharb enjoys beautiful countryside walking trails that lead towards the cliffside of Wied ilMielah towards the Ta’ Gurdan lighthouse. Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 19

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Further north towards Mellieha are the wetlands of Ghadira Nature Reserve and the nearby protected woodlands of Foresta 2000, which is home to various indigenous trees, including the Aleppo pine, holm oak, and carob tree. Welltrodden paths in the area will lead you up towards the breath-taking beauty of the Rdum il-Qawwi and Rdum ilQammieh clifftops, which boast uninterrupted panoramas that stretch all the way to the horizon.

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Enjoy a festive season with a twist

As Malta and Gozo roll into summer, their boisterous festa season gets truly and gloriously underway with several village celebrations taking place every single weekend. Each festa is dedicated to that parish’s patron saint. Week-long celebrations lead up to the official feast day, and in the build-up, churches and streets are decorated to the nines with bright lights, parish colours, intricately woven banners, and statues perched high on columns. Typically, village core squares and streets are closed to traffic over the festa weekend to allow throngs of locals and visitors to gather for food, beer, and a lot of good cheer. Marching bands take to the streets as zealous parishioners carry the statue of their patron saint around the village. The eve of the feast day is marked with masterful firework displays that pop and fizz against the blanket of night. Highlights in Malta’s festa calendar include the feast of St Paul in Rabat held towards the end of June; St Dominic in Valletta celebrated in early August; The Assumption of our Lady, known locally as the feast of Santa Marija celebrated in Mosta and Rabat, Gozo, among five other localities, on 15 August; and The Nativity of Our Lady held in Mellieha on 8 September.

Take to the seas

Swimming and scuba diving aside, there are plenty of other fun and exciting ways to enjoy Malta’s seas. Get an entirely different perspective of the island on a calming boat ride. Head to Wied iz-Zurrieq for a boat ride to the Blue Grotto, which will take you past other sea grottoes such as Honeymoon Cave, Reflection Cave, and Cat’s Cave. For a historical voyage, board a Grand Harbour cruise. Experience the mighty forts, battlements, and bastions of Valletta and the Three Cities from the sea. You could also charter a private boat to visit some truly hard-to-get-to coastal gems, such as IlQarraba Bay, the deserted islet of Halfa Rock, and Fungus Rock. You’re almost always guaranteed to be well away from crowds in these super secluded swimming spots. And if you’re a water sports enthusiast, then why not head to Ghadira Bay or Golden Bay, which are both popular destinations for kite surfing, jet-skiing, banana boating, and paragliding. For stunning snorkelling excursions, head to Bahar ic-Caghaq, Coral Lagoon in Mellieha, Ghar Lapsi in Siggiewi, and Fomm ir-Rih, where colourful marine life and spectacular underwater formations are within easy reach.

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Sample the best of Maltese cuisine

No trip to Malta is complete without a hearty sampling of the local cuisine. Maltese food draws from a diverse range of influences to offer up something entirely unique in the Mediterranean region. Among the island’s most notable foodstuffs are pastizzi. These cheap and cheerful pastry pockets come in two popular varieties, either stuffed with creamy ricotta or mushy peas. They also pack quite the calorific punch. Is-Serkin in Rabat remains a perennial favourite pastizzi vendor, but you’ll spot plenty other vendors selling all sorts of traditional baked snacks in every town and village around the island. Rabbit stew, known locally as stuffat tal-fenek, is another Maltese staple. Rabbit is marinated in wine and stewed in a richly flavoured assortment of herbs and vegetables until it’s melt-off-the-bone tender. The village of Mgarr is a popular destination to try out this national dish. As much of life in Malta revolves around the sea, seafood naturally plays a big part in the national diet. Octopus stew, typically cooked with olives, capers, garlic, tomatoes, and wine, is a summer favourite. Lampuki is another national staple. In season between August and December, this white fish has a soft and subtle flavour, and is usually grilled in tinfoil, lightly seasoned, and served alongside slices of Maltese bread. Head to the small fishing village of Marsaxlokk to enjoy some of the island’s best seafood restaurants.

Fungus Rock

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Treasures within

THE MDINA CATHEDRAL MUSEUM Malta Insider visits the Mdina Metropolitan Cathedral Museum to discover the unique collections of priceless artefacts within this Baroque architectural gem.

ne of the most imposing Baroque palaces in the old citadel of Mdina is undoubtedly that which conserves the Cathedral Museum collection. This important structure was built to serve as a diocesan seminary, with is first stone laid on 6 December 1733. Archbishop Fra Paul Alpheran de Bussan was the main patron and mentor for this most ambitious project which took nine years to complete. The building was constructed on two storeys in the typical Baroque architectural style with an internal central courtyard. This feature provided

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CATHERINE FENECH

fresh air and light within the rooms inside. Bishop de Bussan, who was a man of good tastes, sought the best artists of his days to embellish this edifice so dear to his heart. Worth mentioning are the two prevalent artists of the period: Antoine Favray and Francesco Zahra. These two artists, a Frenchman and a Maltese gave their utmost for the evolution of Maltese iconography during the second half of the 18th century. Throughout the centuries, the building changed its use several times; from seminary to store, from British military residence to a boarding school and so on, and for many years was left in disuse.

CATHERINE FENECH

MDINA CATHEDRAL MUSEUM

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In 1833 the Cathedral Chapter received and accepted the first collection of fine paintings, old master drawings and prints from the generous bequest of Count Saverio Marchese. This remarkable collection, besides adding to the already expanding collection housed within the Cathedral, opened the way to more donations of fine arts and numismatic collections. The need was felt to find new spaces to accommodate a more professional museum, and on 4 January 1969, the new Cathedral Museum was inaugurated by Governor Sir Maurice Dorman and Archbishop Michael Gonzi. The new museum attracted art collectors to donate large or full portions of their collection to the museum. One remarkable collection, that of Dr John A. Cauchi reached the museum in 1992, and a subsequent extraordinary collection was donated by Dr Jimmy and Mrs Doris Farrugia in 2008. These two collections gave a strong boost to the museum patrimony which evolved as an eclectic conglomeration of fine arts. Lately, a remarkable collection of paintings, furniture, silver, porcelain and other historical artefacts reached the museum through the most generous donation of Dr John Bugeja Caruana. An imposing hall housing this collection was inaugurated in 2021.

JOE P. BORG

Archbishop Square, Mdina (2145 4697, www.metropolitanchapter.com). Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4.15pm.

CATHERINE FENECH

In 1833 the Cathedral Chapter received and accepted the first collection of fine paintings, old master drawings and prints from the generous bequest of Count Saverio Marchese.

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Where the

locals EAT

(and you should too)

Buchman’s Snack Bar

Sarah Muscat Azzopardi consults four local foodies about their favourite unassuming and under-the-radar eateries across the Maltese islands, discovering their recommendations covering different cuisines and localities, for everything from breakfast to brunch, lunch and dinner.

s an unashamed food lover, one of the first things I do when visiting somewhere new is seek out those eateries most favoured by the locals. My greatest fear is the tourist trap – after all, one only has so many meals to enjoy over the course of a visit, and it would be a shame to waste one on a sub-par experience. From street food kiosks to finer establishments that are a little more offthe-beaten-path, it is often these that make for the most memorable food experiences. The hard part is, of course, finding them. The best way I’ve found is to go on the recommendations of local foodies, so, with the Maltese islands being no different, that’s exactly what I’ve set out to do.

KRISTIAN ZARB ADAMI For foodie and astrophysics professor Kristian Zarb Adami, picking restaurants that are out of the way is somewhat tricky, he jokes, as “every path in Malta seems to have been beaten to within an inch of its life!” Instead, he focuses on three places that, albeit being within entertainment and touristic parts of the island, are often overlooked. His first favourite go-to is La Cucina di Bettina in the southern town of Zurrieq. “While Wied Iz-Zurrieq is popular with divers from all over the world and has a dense restaurant population, tucked away on the side is this little gem with just 20 covers, which is truly special for those who like Bolognese fare,” Kris reveals. “Riccardo and his wife make a dynamic duo, preparing fresh pasta every morning and

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grilled calamari, hauled fresh out of their habitat just hours earlier. If, like me, you’re still a fan of tortellini in crema, look no further than this place – just be prepared that Riccardo may choose for you. He will also help you choose a lovely wine that’s off the menu to accompany your food,” he smiles. “Bologna’s fare has earned it the reputation of la grassa (the fat one), and La Cucina di Bettina really is one for those cheat days,” he warns, although it certainly seems worth it. “And once you’ve broken your intermittent fast, you may as well round off the meal with a delicious home-made tiramisu!” Sharing an insider tip to make this place all the more interesting, he adds, “Riccardo’s wife hails from southeast Asia, and if you can cobble together a group of seven or more, she will whip up a delicious Thai feast.” Second on Kris’ list is a tried-and-true local choice: Buchman’s Snack Bar, in Gzira. Describing the town as the centre for eclectic food choices, he explains, “within a few hundred metres, you can choose from American fast-food in the form of KFC, to Roman pinsa and tagliere in the form of La Prosciutteria, and Lebanese street food from Ali Baba. However, if it is typical local, ‘working class’ fare you’re after, look no further than Buchman’s.” Painting an expressive picture of the experience that comes with dining here, Kris describes, “at about 1pm, the queue outside this unassuming aluminium structure spills into the busy thoroughfare of Rue d’Argens, and many a heated argument has ensued, with people double and triple parked to pick up their favourite hobza (sandwich). Their Maltese ftira (ring-shaped, semi-flat bread) is second to none, sourced from a traditional bakery further up along Sliema’s St Trophimus Street. You can have this crunchy ftira stuffed with tuna, ham or

La Cucina di Bettina

cheese, or go the whole hog (quite literally) and order the Maltese staple ftira, bajd u bacon (literally an English breakfast in a warm ftira). My preference is to pick up the bread in the morning on the way to the beach, such as Mgiebah or Kalanka. While I’m not sure why, eating a Maltese ftira accompanied by a Cisk Lager or Kinnie (a local soft drink) epitomises Maltese summer for many.” His final recommended eatery is Trattoria ‘a Lanterna, within the touristic capital of Bugibba. In defence of his choice, Kris posits, “Bugibba may be Malta’s answer to the Costa del Sol with a large number of eateries and bars, but hidden away in one of its streets is ‘a Lanterna, (the lighthouse), aptly named, as it is a beacon of Ligurian cuisine.” “The chef himself describes the cooking as cucina casalinga (home-made cooking) so don’t walk in expecting linen-clad tables and moustachioed waiters to cater to your every whim,” he warns, however, if it’s a plate of freshly made pasta with pesto made with basil flown in from Genoa that you’re after, this is the spot for you. Here, Kris recommends starting with a plate of antipasti to share and moving on to a pasta dish. “The rabbit is cooked in a typical Ligurian way, and you must try his moreish dish of mashed salted codfish, brandacajun, which is a speciality. All the food is freshly prepared by a chef who is keen on sourcing the freshest ingredients from his native Liguria and delivering them to your plate with such pride that you feel you’re breaking his heart if you leave anything uneaten. And you also can’t leave without trying the flourless chocolate and hazelnut torta. This is a place for goodvalue food made with kilos of Ligurian passion.”

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EMMA DEMARCO The second foodie I consulted is architect turned chef Emma Demarco, whose passion for food led her to open her own café, Emma’s Kitchen. Apart from celebrating local produce, she enjoys sampling cuisines from around the world, and this certainly comes across in her favourite unassuming eateries across the islands. The first is N Japanese Bistrot, located toward the end of Valletta’s once-again fashionable Strait Street. “This has been a favourite for a long time,” Emma says, describing it as tiny but impeccably designed, and a lovely place to relax. “The dishes are mostly to share, which is my favourite way to eat, and I have some firm favourites that just keep me going back – mostly the dried squid (we always order one, then quickly order a second after we’ve licked the plate clean) and the marinated egg. We had their okonomiyaki special there recently and it was excellent, and my husband (and son) love their matcha ice-cream – I prefer the black sesame,” she reveals. Second on her list is another Asian eatery in the capital city, Drunken Dumpling. “I’ve only been once (so far), but loved it – it’s an unassuming little hole in the wall, and the owner chef is lovely,” she shares. “It was quiet when we went, so she had time to chat with us, and since it’s so tiny, you can see her at work. The homemade dumplings were delicious, but mostly I was blown away by her home-made noodles – so much depth of flavour, and the noodles themselves were just perfect. I can’t wait to go back!”

JOEL GUELLER

Her final recommendation couldn’t be more different if it tried: Mgarr Farmers Bar, run by the Mgarr Farmers Cooperative Society. Originally conceived as a place where the village farmers can get together after a hard day’s work, it has also gained a name for itself among locals looking for a hearty, authentic meal. “It is local in both cuisine and atmosphere, which is probably the best thing about it,” Emma says, adding that the food never fails to be delicious, hearty, and soul-warming. “My go-to is roast chicken or pork with (also roast) potatoes and vegetables. And gravy! So much gravy, and bread.” “We also love to swing by and pick up their hobz biz-zejt on the way to the beach,” she continues, adding that it gives a little peek into what the rest of the island’s eateries must have looked like a few short decades ago. “It gets busy at lunch time so head there early before the good stuff runs out,” she adds, as a final word of advice.

Drunken Dumpling

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SAMIZU

La Capanna

GEORG SAPIANO For seasoned lawyer and foodie Georg Sapiano, his favourite places to eat are just as much about the food as they are about the experience, and the people behind them. The first is an unassuming eatery located in the small and picturesque fishing village of Marsaxlokk. “La Capanna is run by Josef, who likes vintage watches and runs the place like clockwork,” Georg says, describing the restaurant as small, clean in design and in everything else. “You can eat off the toilet lids, but most people prefer staying at the table,” he jokes. “Josef has never been seen without an Ascot cap on his head or with a badly cooked fish in his hand,” he continues, divulging his preferred meal here; lobster salad. For lunch, Georg likes heading to SAMIZU, a recently opened bistro right by the water’s edge at the Valletta Marina. “At Matthew and Nikki’s SAMIZU, the Tauss’ family ethos is tangible,” he says, explaining that the

Neolitik

family have been importing quality boats for decades, have built a new yacht marina for Azimut yachts and have now entered the restaurant fray. “Their tables outside are lovely for breakfast or lunch, while dinner brings a whole new perspective as the bastions are illuminated,” he says, adding a word of warning. “Be aware that SAMIZU is carving a niche for itself as a vibrant evening spot for raucous groups. So, I would go with friends, but not for a date night with my wife.” Meanwhile, Georg also offers up a recommendation on the sister isle of Gozo: Neolitik, in the capital city of Rabat. “Neolitik opened earlier this year and immediately went to the top of my list of preferences,” he divulges, adding, “the people behind it are also new entrants and have never owned a restaurant before, but they hired the right talent in the kitchen and have created a place where a diner can experience great and varied food since the menu is always changing.” His somewhat surprising recommendation here? The braised lentils.

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ELISA VON BROCKDROFF

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MARILU VELLA Marilu Vella first rose to prominence in the local foodie scene when she launched Pastizzi Gourmet, through which she brought a modern take on the islands’ favourite savoury snack to eager locals. Earlier this year, she opened her own restaurant, Marilu’s, in her native Siggiewi. Given her penchant for local cuisine and ingredients, it’s no surprise that her top spots are as Maltese as it gets. The first is Ta’ Rosina Bar in Sannat, Gozo, which she recommends for lunch or dinner. The owner, Rosina, is a big part of what makes the place – which Marilu describes as small and homey – special. “Her food is genuine and the place is really charming. It’s tiny and there’s no menu; you just eat what Rosina has cooked, but it’s never a disappointment!” For this reason, Marilu says, you never know what to expect, so it’s hard to give a recommendation, other than to go. “I recommend booking, and if it’s full for lunch, pop round for a drink on a Sunday morning anyway.” Next on her list is another unassuming eatery on the sister isle, which is located within one of the island’s most stunning inlets: Mgarr ix-Xini. The makeshift

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restaurant is found just off the water’s edge, and, in Marilu’s own words, “their seafood is to die for. Some of the best calamari I’ve ever had were from there.” In fact, she recommends grilled calamari and oysters, if they’re on the menu when you visit. “The setting is as simple as it gets, but it’s perfect for those hot summer days, with a soft breeze and a dip in the sea every so often,” she continues, adding “I would also recommend booking, and if possible, go without a car so as not to spoil the setting.” Finally, Marilu’s last recommended eatery is not a restaurant at all, but a van: Ta’ Skutu Ice Cream Van. While the family that runs it have since closed their old shop in Qrendi, she laments, the icecream van continues to carry on the legacy, and you can find it on the way to Wied iz-Zurrieq. It is here, she says, that you can get “the best lemon soft granita in the world.” “Yes, it’s better than the ones in Sicily,” Marilu affirms, adding that the strawberry flavour comes in at a close second. “They always have different fresh fruit soft granitas which are so refreshing, and people say their ice-creams are also pretty good, but I always go for the usual lemon granita,” she says, and as a bonus, see if you can spot the young boy helping his father serve ice-cream – a heart-warming example of food traditions being passed down across generations.

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WHEN

Mediterranean

food

meets

Maltese flair Nestled in Malta’s picturesque, northern village of Dingli, Barbajean gives Mediterranean food a tasty twist. Chef patron Jean-Pierre Dingli explains to Malta Insider why the Barbajean dining experience is as unique and memorable as its name.

ith a stroll through the quaint village of Dingli, visitors step into a real-life picture-postcard of Malta. Here is the island at its most authentic and historical, with a village square, an imposing, yellow-stoned church, and the gentle hubbub of the local community as they go about their day. Here too, perfectly at home in this peaceful Maltese setting, is Barbajean – a restaurant that, in just two years, has caught the attention of local and international foodies alike. Indeed, that Barbajean has risen to the top in such a short time – in a nation that boasts a culture forged around its passion for food – speaks volumes about this unique dining establishment. Launched in June 2020 after

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years of careful planning, Barbajean happened to join Malta’s bustling restaurant scene at a time when dining out had become one of the first industrial casualties of the COVID-19 pandemic. Yet, with resplendent décor in a vintage-style, sage green and soft pink colour palette, and every custom-made element designed to create a home away from home for guests, Barbajean still more than made its mark. “It was always my dream to open a restaurant and, over the years, we built an idea of what Barbajean would eventually become,” says Barbajean’s chef patron Jean-Pierre Dingli, explaining that the restaurant’s unusual name alludes to his own beard (barba in Maltese) and his name. The word also means barn owl in Maltese (barbagann), a theme reflected in the logo and brand.

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“The name, Barbajean, was the riskiest of our choices but we chose it as it was universally the easiest to pronounce,” he goes on. “No matter where you are from, you might say Barbajean in much the same way we do. The name had to be as accessible as the experience of the restaurant itself.” The family team behind Barbajean worked with Mizzi Studio to create its distinctive brand. Selecting an art-deco style to reflect the warmth of both the village core outside and inside Barbajean, the designers took their cues from local architecture and heritage. Coloured, timber doors and even a built-in terrazzo bench overlooking the piazza evoke a traditional Maltese façade, with the eye-catching palette another key part of the Barbajean aesthetic. “When people see the pink and green together, they immediately think of Barbajean,” continues JeanPierre. “Everything is custom-made – our tables, chairs, brass fixtures, everything. We wanted to create an atmosphere of calm and comfort, so that guests can have a fine-dining experience, but in a relaxed, familiar setting.”

The tactile, bespoke décor even extends to the recently redesigned look of the menu – a menu that itself changes twice a year to showcase both Malta’s exquisite, seasonal produce and the chef patron’s flair for food. “We make the most of seasonal herbs, fruits and vegetables to create dishes we would want to eat ourselves. Everything is sourced fresh locally, from the finest fish to the fruit and vegetables,” shares JeanPierre, highlighting that sustainability is important at Barbajean, right down to its practically no-waste kitchen. “Our menu is comfort food, elevated. We keep it simple – but want to make even the simplest dish taste amazing.” The Mediterranean menu, meanwhile, has earned renown for taking simplicity to a whole new level, through signature dishes home-made from unusual food combinations. Chef patron Jean-Pierre was the brains behind the hugely popular Maltese sausage scotch egg, parmesan doughnuts and even an incredibly delicious, grilled octopus hot dog, which hit headlines and caused quite a stir among Malta’s foodie community. Never one to rest on his culinary laurels, though, Jean-Pierre also shares

“We wanted to create an atmosphere of calm and comfort, so that guests can have a fine-dining experience, but in a relaxed, familiar setting.”

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“Catering gives you a lot of satisfaction. To see people having fun and really enjoying their food and the whole Barbajean experience: that feeling is indescribable.” that he is already considering a classic Sunday roast as part of the upcoming winter menu – no doubt, with a Barbajean twist. Extraordinary food aside, Barbajean now has a loyal following for another key reason: its commitment to accessibility, in every sense of the word. While the food and décor may be worthy of a fine-dining restaurant, the team wanted to make certain that Barbajean is open and accessible for all, with genuinely good service, wheelchair access, air-conditioning – and it is even pet-friendly. “Catering gives you a lot of satisfaction. To see people having fun and really enjoying their food and the whole Barbajean experience: that feeling is indescribable,” reveals Jean-Pierre. “That’s why we went to such great lengths to build that experience through every detail in the restaurant.” Indeed, a recent update to Barbajean’s glassware collection highlights just how far they have come towards achieving that goal. “Riedel is one of the best glassware manufacturers in the world, based in Austria. We use their wine glasses and decanters at Barbajean, which are a pleasure to drink and serve from,” Jean-Pierre smiles. “We shared a photo of a Riedel decanter in the restaurant on social media, and by chance, Riedel saw it and contacted us to offer a collaboration. It was a dream! With them, we created six limited edition decanters, which each took seven months to produce by seven people. Some we then sold, others we have kept for use at the restaurant. This collaboration was a first for Malta, we’re proud to say.”

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Between its relaxed atmosphere, décor, glassware, service, wine list, location and, of course, its mouthwatering food, Barbajean has quickly become the hot ticket for a night out for a special occasion, date night, or just a family treat. And with a menu that caters for both adventurous foodies and comfort-eaters, this elegant restaurant in the heart of Dingli is set to continue delighting the hearts, minds and indeed, the stomachs of food lovers everywhere. www.barbajean.com

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Kinnie, Malta’s national treasure, celebrates 70th anniversary Forever young and always a classic, Kinnie, the iconic beverage dubbed Malta’s own favourite soft drink, celebrates its 70th anniversary this year. Ever since its launch on the local market in 1952 by Simonds Farsons Cisk, Kinnie has always set out to be different from other beverages and over the past 70 years, the unique and unrivalled bittersweet soft drink has evolved to become one of Malta’s leading and much-loved brands. Its recipe remains a closely guarded secret and its flavours are drawn from all-natural essences extracted from oranges and a blend of aromatic and exotic herbs to enhance the beverage’s original taste and golden amber colour. Kinnie was the brainchild of former Chairman and Managing Director of Farsons, the late Anthony Miceli Farrugia, or is-Sur Ninì, as he was better known. The beverage was developed as a response to the entry of a number of international brands, mainly cola-flavoured, that were being introduced into post-war Malta. In Sur Ninì’s own words, “when we launched Kinnie in 1952, we had no intention of coming into the market with a soft drink which tasted like any of the renowned international beverages. Our new drink had to possess a distinctive character, so as to identify it from the competition.” In spite of the many imitations that Kinnie has inspired over the years, being different and original was always key to the brand’s development and Kinnie has continued to retain its appeal, successfully competing against the world’s largest, global soft drink brands. The Kinnie portfolio has been extended over the years and now includes two variants: Diet Kinnie, a lowcalorie version launched in 1984; and Kinnie Zest, a sugar-free, extra orange flavour variant that appeals to a younger generation of new consumers, launched in 2007. In addition, 2021 saw the hugely successful launch of Kinnie Spritz, a 4 per cent ABV alcoholic aperitivo. Blended with a unique mix of natural bitters

and botanicals, and Italian sparkling white wine, Kinnie Spritz builds on Kinnie’s inherent mixability and classic bittersweet flavour. Kinnie plays a key role in Farsons’ overall strategy for future growth and is significant particularly to the exports area. Already available across Europe in countries such as the UK, Poland, France, Germany, Czech Republic and The Netherlands amongst others, Kinnie is also available further afield in Canada and Australia. Susan Weenink Camilleri, Head of Sales and Marketing, comments, “the story of Kinnie is as unique as its distinctive taste and flavour, and celebrating a 70th anniversary is a huge milestone for any brand. A number of initiatives, promotions and activities are lined up to mark this special occasion. We have also commissioned a set of original illustrations that are being featured widely across the celebratory campaign, including limited-edition packaging and advertising.” Kinnie is produced, marketed and distributed by Simonds Farsons Cisk plc, a member of The Farsons Group.

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ALI TOLLERVEY

MaltaInsider2022/2023

Valletta Contemporary

Explore

islands’ rich alternative

Kinemastik Film Festival

THE

arts scene

From music and film to exhibitions and theatrical performances, Malta’s alternative arts scene has blossomed in recent years, and, over the next months, standout events are taking place all over the islands. Rebecca Anastasi has your guide to the best Malta’s cultural scene has to offer – certified by the experts!

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Mediterranean Conference Centre

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Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum

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A MEDLEY OF IMPROVISED ENCOUNTERS Walk down Republic Street in Valletta and you’ll come across myriad street performers and advertisements for the latest arts festival in a city brimming with history and creativity. “The cultural scene in Malta is really diverse,” says Toni Attard, a veteran in the arts scene, with over 10 years’ experience leading cultural projects, and establishing public funding programmes for the creative sectors in Malta. Toni, who is the founder of Culture Vulture – a consultancy and training firm working within the field, as well as the arts production company Udjenza – has his finger on the pulse, attuned to the characteristics which enrich Malta’s arts scene. “Part of this variety is that it is definitely driven by the community – for instance, if we had to look at the more traditional experiences of village feasts, they are created by the feast communities on the island. However, there’s also a more contemporary element: from smaller festivals to performances and shows which are happening across the island, there is really a saturation of experiences,” he continues.

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He acknowledges that some of the more improvised events are more difficult to access, but his “usual tip” would be to “ask a local” and monitor Maltese social media groups for details on what’s happening on the island. “I also think visitors should not plan in advance – in other words, don’t have a jam-packed programme when you come, since you need to allow enough flexibility to improvise and go with the flow. For instance, you might be visiting a garden and see people setting up for a show. Keep in mind that organising events at the last minute is part of our culture, so, if a concert is being held, you’re likely to find a ticket for that evening,” he smiles. Moreover, “everything shifts outside in the summer,” and he points to the assorted cultural programme taking place over the hot months, such as the Mediterranean Literature Festival (26-27 August) and Gay Pride (2-11 September). “There are also artisan markets, and gigs always happening everywhere – from the free concerts on the streets of Valletta, to those taking place in the little-known bars,” Toni says.

“Don’t have a jam-packed programme when you come, since you need to allow enough flexibility to improvise and go with the flow.” TONI ATTARD, CULTURAL SECTOR CONSULTANT

Artisan Market

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you can identify cultural identity. Art can act as a mirror, an amplifier or a recording of sorts of what Maltese society is passing through. One artist can be the voice of a community and, so, having the right ears and the right platforms is important for our culture to flourish.” Therefore, he strongly suggests all visitors to the archipelago to “give local music a chance and if you don’t understand the language of the lyric – if the song is sung that is – ask the artist to translate. I am sure that they will be very happy to do so after a gig!”

MUSIC: THE SOUND OF MALTESE IDENTITY Indeed, Malta has a long tradition of musical enterprise: its folk song tradition – the ghana – echoes its history through unscripted songs created spontaneously, in what is known as spirtu pront (Maltese: improvisation). Moreover, one of Malta’s most famous exports, tenor Joseph Calleja, has, over the past decade represented the country on the world stage. Yet, there is so much more to discover, as musician and musical director, Kris Spiteri, shares.

Apart from the works of local artists, bigger-name performances and festivals also pepper the islands throughout the year: expect countless activities by the national body tasked with nurturing festival and events locally, Festivals Malta, including the excellent annual Malta Jazz Festival, concerts by the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra and, heaps of musical talent from Malta’s sister island, such as the Gozo Youth Wind Band and Orchestra (Facebook: The-Gozo-Youth-Wind-Band-Orchestra), among several others. On his end, Kris also points to Malta’s musical theatre scene as an experience to be savoured: “I have just finished directing a run of ‘Matilda the Musical’ and now headed for ‘La Cage Aux Folles’, to be staged in October. Also keep an eye out for what’s happening in relatively small theatres like Theatre Next Door (tnd.com.mt) and MSpace (Facebook: mspacemalta),” he recommends.

“The music scene in Malta is certainly vibrant. I think that there is something for everyone, which is rare for a relatively small island,” Kris states, adding that he does not make a distinction between “commercial” or “non-commercial” events, and he strongly believes that “tourists visiting the island will certainly find something which will appeal to their liking.” He recommends looking for those “events or acts which have a local timbre. I think it doesn’t make sense to visit a destination and search for entertainment in a style or language that you can find back home,” the musician says. The priority, in his eyes, is to source a gig organised by local bands. “We have an underground scene to be proud of on the island – culturally and musically – so keep an eye out to see if any of those bands are performing.” For Kris, his first port of call is to always seek out those acts which say something about the identity of the island. “Music, like any other art form produced by local artists, instils a further understanding of what makes us, us. Even when shows are imported,

“Music, like any other art form produced by local artists, instils a further understanding of what makes us, us.” KRIS SPITERI, MUSICIAN

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ALI TOLLERVEY

“The weather, and the overload of interesting locations, particularly around the historic bastions, allow local organisers to take risks and host screenings al fresco in remarkable venues.” EMMA MATTEI, KINEMASTIK CO-FOUNDER Kinemastik Film Festival

A CELEBRATION OF FILM The art of film also gets the opportunity to show off its plumes throughout the year, with screenings of the best of independent cinema at Malta’s centre for creativity, Spazju Kreattiv (www.kreattivita.org) in Valletta. For al fresco screenings – and one of the best regular cinema experiences on the island – the 18th edition of the Kinemastik International Short Film Festival (29-31 July, www.kinemastik.org) is back after a twoyear hiatus and taking place at the Msida Garden of Rest in Floriana. Emma Mattei, one of the founders and the programmer for the festival, underscores Malta’s summer vibe as being key to the much-loved event, which also offers great music, drink and the opportunity to mix with the who’s who of the Maltese art scene. “The weather, and the overload of interesting locations, particularly around the historic bastions, allow local organisers to take risks and host screenings al fresco in remarkable venues,” she says. In fact, “some of these locations have featured in

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mainstream cinema, doubling as other places!” The festival is organised by a collective of colleagues and friends who work in film and design – “so we put much of our efforts into selecting locations that are often overlooked, transforming them into the venue.” However, Kinemastik is not the only summer film event which draws audiences to outdoor venues. On Malta’s sister island, the Gozo Film Festival will be taking place from 19 to 21 August, at the honeycombed Cittadella in Rabat. Featurelength and short films, hailing from the Maltese islands, Europe and the US, will be screened over the three days in the open air, as well as in the capital’s indoor theatre, with film-making workshops and children’s activities planned to keep the young and old cinephiles occupied. Entrance is also free of charge, allowing you to save a bob or two, while savouring stories from across the globe.

Kinemastik Film Festival

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FROM THE PREHISTORIC TO THE CONTEMPORARY: MALTA’S ART ON DISPLAY Spazju Kreattiv

ELISA VON BROCKDORFF

INIGO TAYLOR

“I think the sheer variety of what you can find in Malta is what makes the cultural scene so vibrant. You’ve literally got it all: from the prehistoric big hitters to exciting contemporary artists who are fresh on the scene and with a lot to say,” says sculptor Francesca Balzan, pointing to the prehistoric temples of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra, the underground chambers of the Hypogeum in Tarxien, and the sumptuous galleries and interiors of St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta. She recommends a visit to these highlights – but also suggests Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum (Facebook: palazzo.falson) in the ancient capital of Malta, Mdina, to “see how the modern Maltese lived in harmony with an almost millennial structure,” and to experience “a quirky collection of antiques, upstaged only by its erstwhile owner, Captain Olof Gollcher,” she smiles.

ones put on by Spazju Kreattiv (www.kreattivita.org) and the Malta Society of Arts (www.artsmalta.org), as well as cutting-edge contemporary art at Valletta Contemporary (www.vallettacontemporary.com).” She recommends not missing the exhibitions held at “the smaller, quirkier experimental spaces such as Il-Kamra ta’ Fuq (Facebook: il.kamra.ta.fuq), nestled above a workers’ bar in the southern village of Mqabba and the gallery Art by the Seaside (Facebook: Art-by-the-Seaside) in Senglea for lesser-known artists who are exploring interesting new media and styles.” In Gozo, Il-Hagar Museum (www.heartofgozo.org.mt) has a rolling calendar of really interesting events and exhibitions to visit, she says. “Look out also for the various summer festivals which generally include representations of the visual arts in their offerings. There is always so much going on and frequently only announced a couple of weeks before on social media, so you need to keep your ear to the ground to select the exhibitions you wish to see,” she states, insisting that the sheer variety of work on display across the archipelago means that it’s “impossible to see them all!” That doesn’t mean you cannot try, however.

Francesca also looks at Malta’s capital, Valletta, as a centre for the creative arts. “There are always many exhibitions going on in the capital city in various museums and galleries. Look out especially for the

“There is always so much going on and frequently only announced a couple of weeks before on social media, so you need to keep your ear to the ground to select the exhibitions you wish to see.” FRANCESCA BALZAN, SCULPTOR

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Valletta Contemporary

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RAISING THE BAR for

entertainment

in the heart of St Julian’s

Casino Malta by Olympic Casino is the newest casino in Malta, established by Eden Leisure Group, a Maltese leader in the hospitality and entertainment sectors, and managed by Olympic Entertainment Group (OEG), one of Europe’s largest providers of gaming services operating in seven countries across Europe. The casino opened its doors at the end of 2015 and is the largest casino on the island. The 3,000sqm casino is equipped with over 300 slot machines and 30 tables, including 10 poker tables. The casino also boasts an exclusive VIP room for the high-rollers. The slot machines installed in the casino are the newest and most modern in the industry, guaranteeing the highest world-class level of entertainment and gaming. Visitors can try their luck at a variety of table games – American Roulette, Blackjack, Ultimate Texas Poker, 3 card poker, Russian Poker, and Punto Banco.

floors. For guests that are more budget conscious, the stylish and colourful Holiday Inn Express located right next door is a super choice. Malta is known for hosting numerous International Poker tournaments and over the past six years, Casino Malta hosted and partnered with many exclusive brands, such as GG poker, 888 poker, PokerStars, Unibet, WPT and many more. In 2018, the casino bought the Battle of Malta brand and since then, the number of participants has more than doubled. The prize pool for the 2019 event exceeded €2.2 million, and now, Battle of Malta has become the largest and most anticipated low stake tournament in Europe. Casino Malta by Olympic Casino is open 24/7 and you will be welcomed by one of the many, friendly, international staff. We look forward to seeing you at our casino! www.casinomalta.com.mt

Casino Malta is located in a vibrant area of St Julian’s, which is an ideal destination for parties, shops, restaurants, entertainment, and leisure activities. The casino, situated in the largest five-star hotel in Malta, the InterContinental, is the only casino on the island that has direct hotel access. InterContinental Hotel Malta has established itself as the Mediterranean’s leading hotel of distinction. All 481 rooms and suites are elegantly furnished, with the Highline Suites located on the hotel’s higher

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IS HR

STI

The Laguna, Portomaso

The Shoreline

Mercury Towers

Ushering a

new standard of living for the

Maltese islands

Lifestyle property development projects in Special Designated Areas are a rising real estate trend in Malta. To better understand their soaring popularity, Dean Muscat speaks to three real estate experts who discuss the unique lifestyle options offered by these luxurious residences and why they’re continuing to attract foreign interest.

arge-scale residential towers and luxury, prestigious properties are mushrooming all across Malta. Known as Special Designated Areas, or SDAs, these stylish, up-and-coming residential complexes are being designed to offer a new standard of living on the island, one with a greater focus on providing a community sense of living, coupled with a wide array of amenities, all conveniently located onsite.

Among the highlights currently in development are Mercury Towers in St Julian’s, the redevelopment of the Jerma Palace Hotel in Marsascala, the redevelopment of the Grand Hotel Verdala in Rabat, and the conversion of the Halland Hotel in Swieqi, to name but a few. Given the abundance of property options already on offer in Malta, what makes SDAs stand out from the crowd? Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 49

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“SDAs are becoming popular because they are more than just a home; they offer a holistic lifestyle concept,” explains Alex Papagiorcopulo from Homes of Quality. “Most SDAs are optimally situated in sought-after neighbourhoods and offer fantastic views and convenient proximity to local attractions such as nightlife spots, marinas, or beaches. They also feature many desirable facilities, such as pools, gyms, restaurants, and even supermarkets. Because they are built over a larger footprint than most widely available apartment blocks, they also afford to offer more generous communal spaces.”

Mercury Towers

There’s an argument to be made that the pandemic has influenced property trends in favour of SDAs. After an increased amount of time indoors, more and more people have begun to appreciate the importance of owning a home that enables a better quality of living. Whether it’s being able to enjoy a spacious outdoor area with views or having easy access to fitness amenities on your doorstep, home seekers are now looking to get more out of their homes. Property developers, in turn, are increasingly responding to these demands by placing a greater importance on lifestyle choices within their developments.

“Special Designated Areas is a special status granted to these residential projects. It simply means that any individual, from any country globally, can purchase one or more units within the SDA with the same legal status as a Maltese citizen,” explains Benjamin Grech from Engel & Völkers. “In order to attract foreigners, developers are choosing to design highly innovative, mixeduse developments, which in some cases feature hotel-like services, their own business centre, restaurants, a supermarket, a shopping mall, and more. It’s these lifestyle facilities that ensure SDAs have an edge over traditional residences.”

Another crucial advantage that SDAs have introduced into the market is that they are simplifying the real estate buying process for foreign expats wanting to own property in Malta. This is causing SDAs to garner a lot of interest among foreign nationals.

While SDAs have certainly picked up steam in recent years, they are by no means a new phenomenon on the island. One of the earliest SDA projects to really leave a mark on Malta’s real estate market, and pave the way for newer developments, was the Portomaso residential

Mercury Towers

“SDAs are becoming popular because they are more than just a home; they offer a holistic lifestyle concept.” ALEX PAPAGIORCOPULO, HOMES OF QUALITY

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“Special Designated Areas... means that any individual, from any country globally, can purchase one or more units within the SDA with the same legal status as a Maltese citizen.” BENJAMIN GRECH, ENGEL & VÖLKERS

CHRIS STIVAL A

Pendergardens

The Laguna, Portomaso

CHRIS STIVAL A

complex in St Julian’s. At the time of its launch, Portomaso was widely lauded among real estate specialists for introducing something entirely new to the local property market. International investors from far and wide flocked to Malta to own a piece of this prime luxury real estate within this coveted address overlooking the scenic marina. Two decades on, Mr Grech has seen first-hand how Portomaso has continued to attract interest. “Portomaso has remained an in-demand property, among locals and foreigners alike. What makes this project stand out is not only the marina and boating services but the all-round maintenance of the project. When investing in real estate, especially within a residential complex, individuals are not only looking at the particular unit they want to live in, but also the upkeep of the area. They need to feel confident that the complex will always look its very best and that security is top notch. After 20 years, it’s safe to say that Portomaso has continued to deliver on all fronts.” Chris Bonett from Dhalia Real Estate points to Mercury Towers in St Julian’s, The Shoreline in Smart City, and Tigné Point in Sliema as being among the highlight SDAs that are having a major impact on today’s market. “While the Maltese islands are no stranger to high-quality accommodation, today’s lifestyle properties are making a conscious effort to bring something new to the market. These properties offer more than luxurious residences. They provide community and foster a sense of place, belonging,

and shared experiences. This is a relatively new concept in the local real estate market,” he explains. Malta itself is adding to the value of these properties among foreign investors. As the Maltese islands remain a popular holiday destination, there has been a spike in demand for SDA properties from investors looking to benefit from the island’s welcoming sun and sea lifestyle. “The beauty of this island is that due to its size, you get to experience a bit of everything. Lifestyle property tends to offer the best indoor experience whilst ensuring the surroundings are equally exciting. That’s why you tend to find many SDAs located close to the coastline or near popular nightlife destinations. Some are built with private marinas so that owners are just steps away from their boats,” Mr Papagiorcopulo adds. Naturally, these unique lifestyle benefits are reflected in price. Is it fair to say SDAs are primarily targeting a more affluent audience?

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The Shoreline

“These properties offer more than luxurious residences. They provide community and foster a sense of place, belonging, and shared experiences.”

Mercury Towers

CHRIS BONETT, DHALIA REAL ESTATE

“Lifestyle towers and complexes are no longer just for the wealthy. In a world where everyone has a smartphone and can work from anywhere, there is more interest in a location that offers amenities like a gym, pool, and restaurants. Generally speaking, these residences are designed to target young professionals, families, and even seniors reaching retirement age,” explains Mr Bonett.

Residences aimed at families will enjoy facilities such as a communal playground and children’s rooms.”

“And each property will offer amenities and lifestyle experiences that cater to their ideal demographic. For example, lifestyle towers aimed at young professionals are designed around the concept of offering a better work-life balance and will tend to include facilities such as an in-house gym, swimming pool, and jacuzzi.

“I believe that SDAs are already having a huge positive impact on Malta. For one, they’re attracting a lot of foreign investment into the country. That said, it will be easier to analyse the benefits once projects such as Mercury Towers are completed in the next few years,” Mr Grech says.

SDAs explained Special Designated Areas (SDAs) is a label granted to designated developments of luxury apartments and penthouses that facilitates acquisition of property by foreigners. Foreign investors – both EU and non-EU nationals – can, through this scheme, purchase property within the SDA, whilst enjoying the same acquisition rights benefitting Maltese citizens and without the need of securing an AIP (Acquisition of Immovable Property) permit. Moreover, the buyer is able to purchase a limitless number of properties and can lease them out once the ink is dry on the sales agreement.

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As the trend for SDAs soars, there have been naysayers and backers alike. What is the real impact that these large-scale residences are set to have on Malta going forward?

Mr Papagiorcopulo agrees that the general outlook appears positive: “These types of projects have always added value to the Maltese economy at large. They do not just offer a better real estate product but also an improved experience for both locals and foreigners alike. Like anywhere else where land is scarce, such projects find resistance at first. But once a project is finalised, everybody gets to benefit from it because they introduce a better standard of living within their localities, which has a positive knock-on effect among the rest of the community.” As this new wave of SDA residential developments reaches completion, Malta is set to see real estate developers continue to raise the bar to meet the requirements of today’s homebuyers and property investors.

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Luxury

Searching for the perfect luxury property in a vastly diverse market can become challenging rather quickly. Edward Bonello catches up with Alan Grima, CEO of Dhalia Real Estate, who explains how the local market leader can help in the search for luxury property through their new, dedicated platform, Luxury Living Malta.

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icture yourself on your Valletta palazzo terrace. It’s early morning, yet the sun is already shining brightly over the shimmering blue waters of Grand Harbour. Your espresso machine just pinged. It’s hard to imagine a better way to start your day. Luxury is one of those concepts which is somewhat elusive in nature – it may vary significantly from one individual to the next, yet we can all recognise it and identify it rather easily. With luxury living, setting up the perfect combination of comfort, in the right location, with the ideal view, may quickly become a challenge, more so in an increasingly diverse market. This is where consulting with experts possessing decades of experience in Malta’s luxury property market, coupled with intuitive innovation to provide a bespoke quality service, comes in extremely useful. 56 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

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“With 40 years’ experience in the field, we pride ourselves on setting the bar high and leading the market with innovation.”

Luxury Living Malta is a buyer-centric platform for upmarket properties in Malta and Gozo, developed by Dhalia Real Estate. “At Dhalia, we constantly strive to take our business to the next level. With 40 years’ experience in the field, we pride ourselves on setting the bar high and leading the market with innovation and pure dedication to the stakeholders we collaborate with on a daily basis,” claims Alan Grima, CEO at Dhalia Real Estate, as he explains the raison d’être of the innovative project. “Through Luxury Living Malta, our focus is on the quality of the property and the essence of what distinguishes it from the rest. This does not rely on the price tag, but on myriad other factors which give the particular address its distinguishing factors. This is how, through our exclusive service, we are capable

of matching even the most unique requirements of the most exigent clients and help them find the home they would be looking for,” Mr Grima explains. Luxury Living by Dhalia is an exclusive, hand-picked portfolio of magnificent properties. Selected by experts with decades of experience, these homes excel on all levels – seamlessly combining form and function with cutting-edge design. Whether it’s a historical palazzo in the heart of Malta’s capital, or an ultra-modern, semi-detached bungalow with breath-taking sea views, Luxury Living covers all the local top-tier property spectrum. These unequivocally stunning properties incorporate top-of-the-line finishes and unparalleled comfort throughout, for a true luxury living space. Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 57

“Through Luxury Living Malta, our focus is on the quality of the property and the essence of what distinguishes it from the rest.”

“Our dedication to a quality service, and drive towards sustainability in whatever we do is what inspired us to create Luxury Living Malta,” Mr Grima expounds. Luxury Living Malta is only the latest in Dhalia’s long string of innovative projects aimed at contributing solidly towards the long-term quality and sustainability of the local property market. In June, together with Grant Thornton, Dhalia once again set the tone for the market with the launch of ‘The Malta Property Landscape: a true picture’, a landmark document aimed at providing unprecedented insights into this crucial economic sector. The same approach was adopted for the launch of Luxury Living Malta, which provides both the investor as well as the seller with a unique platform.

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Investors who wish to drop anchor in Malta or perhaps are considering purchasing their second luxury home will find an exclusive line-up of the finest homes

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in Malta and Gozo through Dhalia’s bespoke service, making the search for a dream home a pleasing, rather than endless and exhausting, experience. In fact, equipped with the largest property database on the island, the Luxury Living team will assist buyers in identifying their desired home, be it a lavish apartment with spectacular views, a unique house of character or farmhouse, luxurious villa or bungalow, or magnificent townhouse or palazzo. On the other side of the equation, the seller is also excellently served through the Luxury Living platform, backed by a versatile and active marketing network customised to suit their needs. Sellers will find an experienced team of specialised property consultants who will guide and assist them throughout the intricacies of the transaction, such as a fair, market-sensitive valuation of the property in question, full marketing support on a portfolio of Dhalia media platforms with a proven track-record of success, as well as access to an unparalleled international network of partners and investors. Finding the next luxury home in Malta or Gozo will be as leisurely as having that espresso on the terrace of your new Valletta palazzo. It is just a few clicks away! www.luxurylivingmalta.com

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Investing in

Malta

2022/2023

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A BUSINESS HUB:

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in 2022 and BEYOND

With the COVID-19 crisis subsiding in 2021 – and the onset of new challenges brought on by international geopolitics in early 2022 – what is Malta’s capacity to continue attracting foreign direct investment (FDI)? Rebecca Anastasi looks at the island’s business and investment outlook over the last two quarters of the year and beyond.

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“According to the EU Commission’s forecast for 2022, the Maltese economy is expected to continue growing, by 4.2 per cent in 2022 and by 4 per cent in 2023.”

alta, an island-nation in the middle of the Mediterranean, has, since achieving independence in 1964, attracted Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) across various sectors, including tourism, corporate services and, more recently, digital innovation. And, while, predictably, the COVID-19 pandemic impacted the country’s economic gains, its successful handling of the crisis meant a swift bounce-back, although this has been tempered by the Russian invasion of Ukraine. Despite the conflict, however, according to the EU Commission’s forecast for 2022, the Maltese economy is expected to continue growing, by 4.2 per cent in 2022 and by 4 per cent in 2023 “while withstanding the impact of the increase in commodity prices and the Russian invasion of Ukraine.” In the context of strong domestic demand, an expansion in export services, as well as a buoyant tourism sector, what are the prospects of doing business in Malta in 2022 and beyond? MALTA AS A BUSINESS AND INVESTMENT HUB Malta’s competitive corporate tax regime and vibrant business environment, have, for years, drawn in substantial FDI. Indeed, as at June 2021, the stock position of FDI in the jurisdiction stood at €200.2 billion, according to the official figures released by the National Statistics Office (NSO) in early 2022. This represents an increase of €8.2 billion over the corresponding period in 2020, with financial and insurance activities registering the largest share of investment at 97.5 per cent of FDI stocks in June 2021.

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“The survey also showed that 77 per cent of existing FDI companies still believed their long-term future resided on the island, with a majority – 67 per cent – citing Malta’s corporate taxation schemes as the prime reason for the country’s continued FDI retention.”

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Yet, challenges persist. The EY Malta Attractiveness Survey 2021 – the latest survey of the island’s investment landscape, issued by accountancy firm, EY – highlights some of the economic tests currently facing the island, including its greylisting by the Financial Action Task Force (FATF) in June of last year (Malta has since been removed from the grey list). The survey, compiled a few weeks following the country’s relegation to the grey list, reflected a sense of insecurity among investors, with the country’s FDI attractiveness index recording a decrease: in 2020, 62 per cent of investors viewed Malta as an attractive jurisdiction for FDI, while in 2021, this had dropped to 37 per cent. The issues this raises are multifaceted and seem to be understood by the business community, with 84 per cent of respondents raising concerns over the ease of doing business in a changed landscape.

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Notwithstanding, the survey also showed that 77 per cent of existing FDI companies still believed their long-term future resided on the island, with a majority – 67 per cent – citing Malta’s corporate taxation schemes as the prime reason for the country’s continued FDI retention. And, if taken today, the positive outlook is likely to have become stronger. Indeed, in June 2022, a mere 12 months later, Malta was removed from the grey list by the global watchdog, as it was determined that enough progress was made to strengthen local institutions and frameworks. THE OUTLOOK FOR MALTA’S ECONOMY, 2022/2023 In 2022, the Central Bank of Malta published projections that Malta’s GDP will grow by 6 per cent in 2022; by 5.3 per cent in 2023 and by 3.8 per cent in 2024. It is predicted that the growth will be driven by domestic demand, through private and Government consumption, while net exports are also expected to contribute, reflecting the growth in foreign demand. Employment growth is expected to increase to 2.6 per cent in 2022, while labour market pressures are set to be alleviated with the increase of net migration, thereby reducing salary pressures across the service industries. These projections were published in mid-February 2022 and therefore do not account for recent geopolitical developments, and, as Russia continues its invasion of Ukraine, economies, as well as food and fuel supplies continue to be hit, and markets keep registering uncertainty across the globe. In Malta, as the rest of the world, the impact of the war has resulted in an increase in inflation: in March 2022, the industrial producer price index, published by the NSO, recorded an increase of 6.61 per cent when compared to the same month in 2021, with inflation registered in all the main industrial groupings. As a result, stakeholders and analysts have, more recently, underscored a changed economic landscape. Nonetheless, in March, Fitch Ratings confirmed Malta’s Long-Term Foreign-Currency Issuer Default Rating (IDR) at ‘A+’ with a stable outlook predicted over the next quarters, yet it did note a future contraction of the island’s economy. Indeed, it lowered its growth forecast to 4.2 per cent for 2022, down from 6.1 per cent “due to the stronger-thanexpected 2021 recovery and (mostly) indirect effects from the invasion of Ukraine and imposed sanctions

on Russia.” Moreover, while “Malta’s direct economic and energy ties to Ukraine, Russia and Belarus are limited, as a small and open economy,” the island is also “highly exposed to the weaker economic outlook in key tourism markets in the EU and the UK,” the rating agency said. Despite this, the economic situation remains healthy. Provisional estimates, published by the NSO, show that Malta’s GDP rose by 7.6 per cent in the first quarter of 2022, to €3,784.5 million, registering a 10.7 per cent rise when compared to the same period in 2021. This buoyancy is reflected in the unemployment rate in Malta, which is continuously dropping. Indeed, in May this year, it stood at only 3.1 per cent, at par with the previous month.

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MALTA AS A BRIDGING JURISDICTION TO EUROPE AND AFRICA Continuing to look ahead, Malta’s strategic position in the middle of the Mediterranean allows the island to play host to myriad investment opportunities. “Malta is a bridging jurisdiction, in that it interoperates with many countries, both within the EU and in Africa,” according to English barrister, Geraldine Noel, who is licensed to practice in Malta, and is the director of legal and advisory firm, Acumum. As a result, she continues, Malta must prioritise embracing diversity of business, of people, and of opportunities. “We are a European Union member state country, and, therefore, we abide by European legislation, which is particularly advantageous in financial services, as well as in passporting and connecting services, so that non-EU nations can do business in the zone, through us, without having to go through the rigmarole of becoming a member,” she continues. “Malta is, therefore, signatory to various European treaties, which gives comfort to investors that there is a solid basis upon which to rest, in terms of transactions and disputes.”

Moreover, being a member state makes Malta party to the Union’s Environmental and Social Governance (ESG) framework which is “of vital importance, in the context of Russia’s incursion in Ukraine, as well as the climate and environmental crisis.” The Director points to the work Acumum has done in the sustainability sector as evidence of Malta’s strategic position in this regard: “as a firm, we have been instrumental in the field of renewable energies and in the green sector by, for instance, assisting our clients launch green bonds in Luxembourg. This shows that conducting business through the island need not consist of Malta-focused transactions, but can have a wider ambit, vis-à-vis other jurisdictions.”

“Malta is, therefore, signatory to various European treaties, which gives comfort to investors that there is a solid basis upon which to rest, in terms of transactions and disputes.” GERALDINE NOEL, DIRECTOR, ACUMUM

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In addition, the proposal to extend Malta’s Exclusive Economic Zone – the territorial waters over which it has jurisdiction – through legislation, could spur the growth of other viable economic sectors. “The Maltese Government has issued a tender invite for proposals of activities within the suggested extended zone, and we’ve been assisting clients with the preparation of bids for this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to utilise these uncharted waters. Floating renewables, fish farms, solar and wind farms, as well as the exploration of oil and gas can all help boost the Maltese economy.” SHIPPING AND AVIATION OPPORTUNITIES Acumum also operates within the shipping and aviation space, and Dr Geraldine Spiteri – a Maltese lawyer and the firm’s resident shipping and maritime expert – underscores the historically significant role shipping has played within Malta’s economic development. “Shipping has always been one of the pillars of the Maltese economy and we have a strong maritime tradition. Today, we are a hub for shipping goods – export, import and transhipments, through the

Malta Freeport – as well as a port of registry. Trade in this space is advantageous due to our locations, the wide availability of service providers, and Malta’s legislative framework,” she explains. As a result of its attractive incentives for companies that own ships, or which run shipping operations, the Malta flag has continued to solidify its reputation. “It remains one of the largest flags in the world, and in Europe. We are the largest for superyachts, for instance, and there are many advantages to registering a yacht here: firstly, the flag is a reputable one, so owners get favourable treatment in major ports; and we boast a port in the middle of the Mediterranean where owners can dock if they require, and we’re, of course, an English-speaking country,” Dr Spiteri explains. Moreover, Malta’s legal framework allows for nonresident foreign investors to register their yacht or boat in Malta by using a local registered agent, who will serve as the link between the authorities – the flag – and the owner. “Of course, not anyone can be an agent – these have to be approved by Transport Malta – but this mechanism has helped to boost Malta’s ship registry services, since that agent ensures the proper documentation is submitted, that the renewal of the registration is affected, and so on,” she asserts. Dr Spiteri also stresses the steady increase seen in the number of registered aircraft in Malta over the past few years. “Here, investors are able to register a mortgage on an aircraft, which is internationally compliant – which means it is recognised across various jurisdictions. This gives comfort to financiers, and results in Malta being advantageous even when it comes to leasing arrangements,” she attests. This area is likely to keep growing over the next year, and decade, she continues. “More people are getting involved in this sector, and the more experience the island has, the more able it is to attract investors to this space. The usual corporate advantages apply, so owning a private jet, or a charter, could be part of the structure of a company. Malta is compliant with international conventions – in both the maritime and the aviation industries – and this is why the country inspires confidence as a country of registration. In fact, we are one of the few countries which operates in this way,” she concludes.

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“Today, we are a hub for shipping goods – export, import and transhipments, through the Malta Freeport – as well as a port of registry.” DR GERALDINE SPITERI, MARITIME AND AVIATION LAWYER, ACUMUM

SPOTLIGHT ON: MALTA’S THRIVING BUSINESS SECTORS With its warm climes and substantial expat community, Malta is also popular with those seeking to invest in property, with a buoyant buy-to-let market in the central areas of St Julian’s, Sliema, Gzira, and their surrounding areas. And with the delineation of Special Designated Areas (SDAs), a label allocated to developments of apartments and penthouses specifically targeting EU and nonEU nationals, foreign investors can, through this scheme, purchase property within the SDA, whilst enjoying the same acquisition rights benefitting Maltese citizens and without the need of securing an AIP (Acquisition of Immovable Property) permit. Moreover, the buyer is able to purchase a limitless number of properties and can lease them out once the ink is dry on the sales agreement. Since these properties have been determined to be a suitable investment vehicle, many SDA areas are located in popular locales, and boast amenities such as swimming pools, parking facilities, gardens and gyms. The island also has a plethora of commercial and office leasing opportunities, with many offering a high-end experience. And many operators across a spate of sectors have, indeed, set roots in the country, as a result of the myriad conveniences and attractive financial framework. In 2020 – the year of the pandemic – there were 53,348 active business units in Malta, an increase of 4.6 per cent over 2019, according to numbers released by the NSO – and this number has continued to increase, with significant strides made in the iGaming sector, as well as ICT.

the island over the past few years, particularly since 2017, and now represents 6.6 per cent of the Maltese economy’s GVA, employing over 7,300 people in more than 300 companies. These enterprises operate in growing endeavours such as Blockchain, artificial intelligence (AI) and internet of things (IoT), and cater to both local and international clients. The iGaming sector has also matured over the past several years: the GVA generated by the sector in 2020 was estimated at €924 million (representing 8 per cent of the economy), according to the Malta Gaming Authority’s latest Annual Report, while the industry’s indirect effects on financial services, ICT, the property market, as well as hospitality and catering have meant that the industry’s contribution to the Maltese economy stood at 10.2 per cent in 2020. The manufacturing industry has long been an important contributor to the local economy. However, over the past few years, through strategised investment in advanced technology, the focus is on high-end, innovative and sustainable manufacturing processes, particularly in the pharmaceuticals and medical fields, with companies specialising in the production of software, medicinal products, and biotechnology solutions. The inauguration of the Malta Life Sciences Park in 2016, consisting of 13,500sqm of space – including laboratories, offices, and meeting rooms – aimed to spur the growth of the life sciences sector in Malta, providing facilities to the enterprises operating in the fields of chemistry and biology, among others; and is today bearing fruit. In this regard, the next months will continue to see developments within the island’s economic structure, and Malta is intent on emerging from the upheaval of the past few years with a bounce. SHUTTERSTOCK.COM/ANASHARPHOTO

According to Malta Enterprise, the ICT sector, to take one example, has expanded significantly on

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Bespoke

support

and

PARTNERS IN

growth

Many local and international investors continue to choose Malta as a jurisdiction for growing their business, recognising it as a well-established financial services centre with many professional individuals and organisations that can meet their requirements and provide personalised support. Fenlex CEO, Karl Diacono, explains to Edward Bonello what it takes to excel in the sector that has become far more complex due to ever evolving European and International regulations.

alta’s economy has grown steadily with brave decisions taken over the years to create new economic sectors such as financial services, shipping and yacht registration, iGaming, aviation, pharma, and several others. This has meant that Malta has caught the eye of numerous investors who have chosen this sunny archipelago, just half an hour by air south of mainland Europe, to establish their interests, and call Malta home.

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“We have been in this sector from the very early days and have seen it grow, not without its challenges, into what it is today. From a very small set-up of three persons, Fenlex today employs over 75 professionals providing corporate and trust services to a very large number of international and local clients,” says Karl Diacono, shareholder, director and CEO of Fenlex Group of companies.

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“Across the years we have assisted innumerable investors, from their initial exploratory visits to the island, to the most advanced stages of support.”

“We are in the business of building long-term relationships, and across the years we have assisted innumerable investors, from their initial exploratory visits to the island, to the most advanced stages of support, with many of them becoming long-term investors, employing hundreds of persons,” he continues, as he reflects on his experience with one of the largest, independent corporate services providers in Malta. In fact, Fenlex has been active in servicing local and international clients since the late 1980s. “At Fenlex, we are all too aware of what clients require and have invested in people and systems that can cater for these needs. We have never shied away from taking business risk and investing in sectors where we see potential for growth,” Mr Diacono explains. Asked how he would describe the Fenlex experience for clients, Mr Diacono says that the company is determined to take off the load of all that is extraneous to a client’s core business. “Our clients are focused individuals who excel at running their business. On the other hand, while

knowledgeable on the subject, they will often find the detail of company administration, international regulation and legal requirements, especially for cross-border transactions complex, and therefore seek professional help. This is where we come in.” Mr Diacono adds that Fenlex’s experience in the field and its large complement of experienced and specialised professionals ensure that clients’ experiences in Malta are as seamless and smooth as possible, allowing them to focus on what they do best – growing their business. “We focus on what is important and take over the ongoing administration of projects down to the minutest detail to offer a complete and personal service where required, which may include the relocation of a client’s family to Malta, making schooling arrangements, or finding a home or staff through our own recruitment agency, Talent Base,” says the CEO. The company’s core business is the provision of assistance with processes of registration and incorporation, or re-domiciliation of companies

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“We work very closely with our clients in order to achieve set goals, and work very hard to make sure that expectations are met.” in Malta, as well as all that is then necessary to keep these companies fully compliant with local regulation. “Fenlex also offers various back-office services suited to our clients’ needs, and our team consists of highly experienced professionals in their respective fields of tax, accounts, management, company administration, regulatory compliance, and banking. We work very closely with our clients in order to achieve set goals, and work very hard to make sure that expectations are met.”

Asked about the secret of Fenlex’s success, Mr Diacono wastes no time in identifying Fenlex’s staff and its philosophy of assisting employees to become more rounded professionals as the prime drivers behind the organisation’s level of service, which is what keeps clients as the biggest source of new business. “As CEO of Fenlex, I pride myself in forming part of an extraordinary group of individuals. We invest greatly in the career path and personal growth of all our staff, making sure they remain motivated and engaged. This is appreciated by our clients who are met by qualified and competent staff.” With over 30 years of experience, Fenlex has developed processes to provide efficient and cost-effective solutions to its private and corporate clients across the broad spectrum of services it offers. Fenlex also has a long-standing association with one of Malta’s largest and longest established law firms, Fenech & Fenech Advocates. As the markets were opened in the late 1980s, ushering in a new era of economic growth, Fenech & Fenech quickly saw the value of offering a complete portfolio of services to its new, predominantly international clientele, that sought to use Malta as a base for their business. Fenlex was the natural next step – providing a complete, 360-degree support service for these clients. Looking ahead to Fenlex’s future, the CEO is cautiously optimistic. “We are facing challenges continuously, and are still not out of the woods with the COVID-19 pandemic that is still causing serious supply chain issues as well as staff shortages across the EU in some key areas of business, mostly aviation and hospitality, but not only.” Mr Diacono highlights that the financial services sector has also been affected by a lack of resources. “The brutal Russian invasion of Ukraine has exasperated an already difficult situation. We have more regulatory challenges ahead and a reputational issue that needs some serious attention. All of these head winds will make our work more complex and difficult in the short to medium term, but I am an optimist by nature and strongly believe in the capability of the Maltese professional community to stay focused on finding solutions that work for our industry. We have done so for over 30 years.”

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THE THREE CITIES & AROUND

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Valletta No trip to Malta is complete without a visit to the capital city, Valletta, which is home to many of the islands’ historical treasures within its grid-like streets, alongside an impressive variety of cultural attractions, top-notch eateries, trendy watering holes and stylish places to sleep.

he capital city is one of those gifts that keeps on giving – with every visit, you’re bound to discover a new street, architectural detail, museum or restaurant that makes the trip there not just worthwhile, but somewhat unforgettable too.

were built to defend the city from an impending Ottoman invasion at the time – you’ll stumble across several architectural gems, from niches carved into street corners to townhouses that are over 400 years old. In fact, there’s no better way to explore this UNESCO World Heritage site than on foot.

Valletta is steeped in history, and owes its name to the Grand Master of the Order of the Knights of St John who founded it in 1566, Jean de la Valette. At every corner of its grid-like streets – which are protected by impenetrably thick walls that

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You’d best begin your excursion from the Renzo Piano-designed City Gate, which will lead you to the main thoroughfares – the pedestrianised Republic Street and Merchants Street. At de Valette Square – a stone’s throw away from the majestic Auberge de Castille, which houses the office of the Prime Minister and, while not open

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to visitors, is definitely worth admiring from the square – you’ll see the first church to be built in Valletta, Our Lady of Victory, erected in thanksgiving for the Knights’ Great Siege victory over the Ottomans. The city’s main street, Republic Street, is lined with several shops, cafés and restaurants, but we recommend some sightseeing stops along the way. Hard to miss is the worldfamous St John’s Co-Cathedral, a treasure trove of Baroque art and architecture. Among the countless, invaluable works of art housed here is Caravaggio’s ‘The Beheading of St John the Baptist’, as well as priceless tapestries, tombstones, monuments and artefacts. In nearby Merchants Street, pay a visit to Is-Suq tal-Belt (city market), a lively food hall and market. Further down from the Co-Cathedral is the largest square in Valletta, St George’s Square, which sits in front of the Grand Master’s Palace, itself the seat of authority from 1571 until 2015, when Parliament moved to Piano’s new building in City Gate. In the lower boroughs of the capital you’ll encounter Fort St Elmo, a star-shaped fort that played a pivotal role in the Great Siege of 1565. A visit here is both a lesson in Malta’s history and a perfect spot for stunning, panoramic views of the city’s harbours.

PLACES OF INTEREST 1

Valletta Waterfront

14 St Paul’s Shipwreck Church

Lascaris War Rooms

15 National Library

Saluting Battery

16 St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral

Upper Barrakka Gardens

17 Teatru Manoel

Auberge de Castille

18 St George’s Square

Spazju Kreattiv

19 Grand Master’s Palace

Our Lady of Victory Church

MUŻA (National Museum of Art)

Pjazza Teatru Rjal

10 Parliament Building 11 Hastings Garden 12 National Museum of

Archaeology 13 St John’s Co-Cathedral

& Armoury 20 Is-Suq tal-Belt 21 Malta Postal Museum 22 Casa Rocca Piccola 23 Mediterranean

Conference Centre 24 The Malta Experience 25 Fort St Elmo

Valletta is also home to beautiful and peaceful gardens. One of the largest, and most scenic, is the Upper Barakka Gardens, which provide arguably the best views of Grand Harbour with the Three Cities as the backdrop. Nearby is Hastings Garden, which affords lovely views of Marsamxett Harbour. Try to time your visit to the Upper Barrakka Gardens to experience the gun salute that goes off at the mark of noon every day from the Saluting Battery just below. From here, you can also take a lift down to the Valletta Waterfront, a promenade lined with restored, 18th-century warehouses that today house bars and restaurants, and enjoy a meal with a gorgeous view of the majestic Fort St Angelo in Vittoriosa across the water. Within the capital, there’s no shortage of places to wine and dine – from quaint snack bars to casual eateries and Michelin star restaurants, the variety is endless.

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. MUZA (National Museum of Art)

H E R I TA G E Fort St Elmo & The National War Museum Fort St Elmo played a pivotal role in the Great Siege of 1565, though its history goes back to the latemedieval period. It is now home to the National War Museum, which displays an extensive collection of items dating to prehistoric times, and military armour of the Order of St John and the Ottoman Turks, among others. It also sheds light on the island’s important role in World Wars I and II. Mediterranean Street (2148 1305, www.heritagemalta.org)

Grand Master’s Palace & Armoury This lavish palace was the seat of Malta’s rulers from the 16th century until 2015. Inside, the State Rooms are extravagantly decorated with fine furniture, elaborate paintings – including a visual narrative of the Great Siege – priceless Gobelin tapestries and illusionistic ceiling paintings. The Armoury holds over 4,000 pieces of military hardware. The Palace and Armoury are temporarily closed pending restoration; visit the website for reopening updates. Merchants Street (2124 9349, www.heritagemalta.org)

Jesuits Church The Jesuits Church, which is one of the oldest in the capital, was originally built between 1593 and 1600 by the Jesuit order, and was reconstructed in the Baroque style in the 17th century following an explosion in a nearby factory in 1634. It formed part of a complex that included Malta’s old University building, and continues to be used for annual graduation ceremonies. Merchants Street (2722 1241)

Lascaris War Rooms Head 150 feet underground for a 40-minute tour of this extensive network of tunnels and chambers beneath the Upper Barrakka Gardens. Once the headquarters from where Malta conducted its defence during World War II, the war rooms were later used by NATO as a communication centre at the height of the Cold War. Lascaris Ditch (2180 0992, www.lascariswarrooms.com)

Malta Postal Museum Spread over four floors in an old, converted townhouse, the Malta Postal Museum displays an extensive and colourful collection of artefacts representing centuries of the island’s postal history, beginning as far back as the 16th century. The museum includes a kids’ area and onsite post office. 135, Archbishop Street (2596 1750, www.maltapostalmuseum.com)

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National Library

MUŻA (National Museum of Art) Located within the historic Auberge d’Italie, MUŻA is the island’s national community art museum, with works ranging from the late medieval to the contemporary. It houses priceless paintings, sculptures, majolica, furniture, and silver by local and international artists, including Mattia Preti, Victor Pasmore and Antonio Sciortino. There are also four onsite dining areas, including a lovely courtyard eatery and a private dining room. Auberge d’Italie, Merchants Street (2122 0006, www.heritagemalta.org)

National Library The National Library, founded in 1776, is one of the island’s national treasures, home to collections of books, manuscripts, maps and more, that span centuries, from medieval times to the digital age, including all state archives of the Order of the Knights of St John from its foundation in 1113. The library is housed within a late-18th century Neoclassical building in the heart of the capital. 36, Old Treasury Street (2598 3550)

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National Museum of Archaeology

HERITAGE MALTA

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Auberge de Castille

St John’s Co-Cathedral

With a range of artefacts dating back to Malta’s Neolithic period (5,900BC) up to the Phoenician period (400BC), this museum offers a fascinating introduction to the prehistory and early history of the Maltese islands, spanning around 7,000 years. Auberge de Provence, Republic Street (2558 4712, www.heritagemalta.org)

Our Lady of Victory Church This church may be small and humble, but it has the distinction of being the first structure to be built in Valletta, on the site where a ceremony was held to commemorate the laying of the foundation stone of the city. It was personally funded by Grand Master de la Valette in thanksgiving for the Knights’ victory over the Ottomans during the Great Siege of 1565. Victory Square (www.ourladyofvictory.org.mt)

St John’s Co-Cathedral The world-famous conventual church of the Order of the Knights of St John, dedicated to St John the Baptist and designed by Maltese architect Girolamo Cassar, is widely considered to be the jewel of Valletta. It was commissioned in 1572 and completed in 1577, and while its Mannerist façade may be plain, its interiors are lavish. Italian artist Mattia Preti was entrusted with most of its embellishment, but countless other treasures can be found, not least Caravaggio’s ‘The Beheading of St John the Baptist’, which was completed in 1608 and is displayed in the Oratory. St John’s Square (2122 0536, www.stjohnscocathedral.com)

THE ST JOHN’S CO-CATHEDRAL FOUNDATION

St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral Commissioned by Queen Adelaide, the widow of King William IV, who wanted a place of Anglican worship on the island during her stay in the 19th century, St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral is the only Anglican cathedral in Malta. The 60-metre spire is a landmark of Valletta, visible from many nearby towns and cities around the harbour. Independence Square (2122 5714, www.anglicanmalta.org)

St Paul’s Shipwreck Church The origins of St Paul’s Shipwreck Church, which is among Valletta’s oldest churches, have been traced back to the 1570s. Although it was completed by 1582, its façade was rebuilt in 1885 according to the design of architect Nicola Zammit. You’ll observe numerous treasures here, one of which is the relic of the wrist bone of St Paul, displayed in an elaborate gold niche. 74, St Paul Street (2122 3348)

AT T R A C T I O N S Auberge de Castille Sitting at the highest point of Valletta in an expansive square is the imposing Auberge de Castille. It is the official seat of the Prime Minister of Malta and therefore not open to the public, however, its ornate exterior makes it a must-see on your tour of the capital. Built in the Baroque style by the Order of the Knights of St John in the 16th century, it is an architectural masterpiece. Castille Place. Not open to visitors.

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Is-Suq Tal-Belt

Parliament Building

The stately home of the 9th Marquis de Piro is a living museum, with countless spaces available for public viewing. It was built in the late-16th century for Don Pietro La Rocca and offers insight into the way Maltese nobility lived. Among its many treasures are furniture and silver collections, World War II air raid shelters, a private chapel, and a sedan chair that once belonged to a French knight. 74, Republic Street (2122 1499, www.casaroccapiccola.com)

Hastings Garden Escape to the peaceful Hastings Garden, located on the bastions on the west side of Valletta, for glorious views of Floriana, Msida, Sliema, Manoel Island and Marsamxett Harbour. The sprawling garden is named after Lord Hastings, a former British governor of Malta who died at sea in 1827 and lies buried there. Windmill Street

Is-Suq Tal-Belt Housed within the original Valletta food market that was completed in 1861, a visit to Is-Suq Tal-Belt is a culinary and cultural experience. You’ll find an eclectic choice of eateries serving a range of cuisines, from Italian, Mexican and Hawaiian to Maltese and Indian, as well as a food market selling fresh fruit and veg, bread, delicatessen, and more. Merchants Street (2210 3500, www.issuqtalbelt.com)

The Malta Experience Relive the Maltese islands’ 7,000-year history through this dramatic, engaging, 45-minute audio-visual documentary suitable for all the family. Screened from within a purpose-built panoramic auditorium, it is educational, informative, and entertaining, and available in several languages. St Elmo Bastions, Mediterranean Street (2552 4000, www.themaltaexperience.com)

Mediterranean Conference Centre A historic landmark in the capital, the 16th-century Mediterranean Conference Centre, built by the Order of the Knights of St John, was originally the Sacra Infermeria, Malta’s first hospital, with a 155-metre-long ward, considered one of the longest in Europe during its time. Be sure to also visit the magnificent theatre, and check for any upcoming events that might pique your interest. Old Hospital Street (2124 3840, www.mcc.com.mt)

Casa Rocca Piccola

Saluting Battery For almost 500 years, Valletta’s 16th-century Saluting Battery protected the harbour from naval assault. Following a half-century out of use, today, the battery’s guns sound off daily to mark midday, making it, possibly, the oldest battery still in operation anywhere in the world. Battery Street (2122 5277, www.salutingbattery.com)

St George’s Square

The striking Parliament Building, which boasts a modern limestone façade, was designed by renowned architect Renzo Piano between 2011 and 2015 as part of the City Gate Project. It is the meeting place of the Parliament of Malta, and while it is largely closed off, there is much to observe from the outside.

Roughly half way down Republic Street is St George’s Square, the largest and most prominent square in the capital, located in front of the marvellous Grand Master’s Palace. The Changing of the Guard ceremony, which is a 17th-century ritual, is normally held here every last Friday of the month, starting at 10.30am, where the Armed Forces of Malta Band conducts a marching display to intrigued crowds.

Republic Street

Parliament Building

JAMES BIANCHI

Casa Rocca Piccola

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C. Camilleri & Sons

Blitz

Upper Barrakka Gardens A visit to the peaceful Upper Barrakka Gardens is a must, if only for one of the most beautiful panoramic views in Malta of the only natural harbour in the Mediterranean, and the Three Cities as its backdrop. Look out for several monuments and memorials dedicated to eminent individuals with a link to the islands. St Ursula Street

Valletta Underground While the fascinating capital has no shortage of beautiful sites to see above ground, there’s a whole other world to explore beneath street level. Valletta’s underground hosts a network of reservoirs and tunnels that served many purposes, including as shelters for the city’s residents during World War II, which you can explore during regular organised tours that start at the National Museum of Archaeology. National Museum of Archaeology, Auberge de Provence, Republic Street (2558 4712, www.heritagemalta.org)

Valletta Waterfront This vibrant promenade in Floriana is home to several cafés, bars, restaurants and shops set within a series of restored 18th-century warehouses, built by Grand Master Pinto at the height of the Baroque period in Malta. Entertainment activities for all ages are held regularly. Floriana (2567 3000, www.vallettawaterfront.com)

LEISURE Blitz This artist-run, contemporary arts space is one of the island’s foremost exhibition spaces. It operates within an expertly restored, 400-year-old Valletta townhouse, and supports public programmes and workshops, exhibition galleries and artist residencies. 68, St Lucia Street (9949 5129, www.blitzvalletta.com)

C. Camilleri & Sons Established in 1843, this family-run institution is a go-to for daily-baked cakes, local sweets (such as honey rings and sugar-coated almonds, called perlini), and home-made icecream. There’s an extensive display of pick-and-mix sweets too, as well as chocolates, wines and whiskies. 49-51, Merchants Street (2124 1642, www.tal-helu.com)

Cekcik

Charles & Ron

Charles & Ron Designer duo Charles & Ron make up one of Malta’s top fashion designer brands, whose flagship store can be found in the capital’s main street, stocking several trademark pieces that include smart wear, scarves and bags in the brand’s distinct, Mediterranean style. 58D, Republic Street (2124 0184, www.charlesandron.com). Also 21, St Paul’s Street, Naxxar

This charming shop, the name of which means ‘knick-knacks’ in Maltese, is set within a 400-yearold building, and offers an eclectic range of personal and home products from all over the world, including bags, scarves, Turkish ceramics, hanging wall ornaments, and incense.

Chocolate District

15, Melita Street (7940 2108, www.cekcik.com.mt)

13, Melita Street (2788 8668, www.chocolatedistrict.com)

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For a mouth-watering assortment of the finest cacao products, looseleaf teas and coffee beans, look no further than Chocolate District. The exquisite ‘Made in Malta’ chocolate collection, which incorporates local sea salt, olive oil, nougat and carob, makes for a lovely gift to take home.

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Souvenirs That Don’t Suck

Joseph Busuttil

The Cinema Bar by Citylights This former, Colonial-era, adult cinema has been repurposed into a cinema-themed bar that attracts a hip crowd with its screening of classic, indie and foreign language films, which you can enjoy while sipping on a craft beer from the well-stocked bar.

MVintage

56, St John’s Street (7949 7987)

The Embassy Cinemas Set within the stylish The Embassy Valletta Hotel is The Embassy Cinemas, which offers a boutique, film-watching experience with comfy chairs and sofas, a wide selection of bar items, and topnotch service across all six theatres that show the latest films and bigscreen entertainment.

Mdina Glass

Pjazza Teatru Rjal

As one of the island’s most renowned ‘Made in Malta’ brands, a visit to Mdina Glass is a must. At this colourful store, you’ll find a vast collection of glassware, from serving bowls and vases to lamps and jewellery, in traditional and contemporary designs, with a range of prices to suit most budgets.

Pjazza Teatru Rjal, formerly the Royal Opera House that was partially destroyed in World War II, is housed within the site’s ruins and reimagined as part of Renzo Piano’s City Gate project. This open-air arts space boasts a diverse cultural programme all year round, but reaches its peak throughout summer.

St Lucia Street (2122 2225, www.embassycinemas.com)

14, Merchants Street (2122 6488, www.mdinaglass.com.mt). Also across Malta

Joseph Busuttil

MVintage

At this family-run souvenir shop, which has been in business for over 100 years, you can observe the intricacies of the high-quality, authentic Maltese lace that’s available for purchase, as well as other traditional local ware, ranging from filigree, Gozitan glass and antiques, to jewellery pieces and silver items. 222, Merchants Street (2124 3241)

Local jewellery brand MVintage is the by-product of founder Krystle Penza’s love for art and fashion, with a focus on creating empowering jewellery pieces for women. The collections frequently feature icons of Maltese heritage, such as old coins, door knockers and keys, interpreted into stylish designs. 146, St Lucia Street (2124 2172, www.mvintage.com)

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Republic Street (2247 8100)

Souvenirs That Don’t Suck Founded with the aim of producing well-designed souvenirs, the creatives behind this much-loved, Maltese brand will ensure you return home with fun and useful gifts (for yourself and others). From hoodies, prints and bags to accessories, socks and stationery, everything here is made with gusto. 8, St John’s Square (7771 3194, www.souvenirsthatdontsuck.mt). Also Manwel Dimech Street, Sliema

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Teatru Manoel

Spazju Kreattiv

LUIZ RODRIGUEZ

Teatru Manoel This 18th-century theatre may be small, but it is certainly magnificent. It is one of the oldest working theatres in Europe, with an ovalshaped auditorium and three tiers of boxes made entirely out of wood. Be sure to catch whatever performance is on during your visit, be it an opera, musical, or the annual Valletta International Baroque Festival.

Valletta Contemporary

Spazju Kreattiv

Studio 104 Valletta

Housed within a 16th-century fort called St James Cavalier is Malta’s multi-purpose centre for creativity, Spazju Kreattiv, which brings together the creative arts and culture under one, historical roof. There’s always something to see here – be it a contemporary exhibition, a live performance in its round theatre, or a screening of an independent or foreign-language film in its cinema, which also screens live performances of some of the world’s major theatres and opera houses.

At this contemporary art space and working studio, visitors can expect a variety of contemporary art exhibits ranging from wall-mounted art and installation art to audio-visual exhibits. The studio also houses a two-and-a-half tonne printing press from the 1970s which would be interesting to observe.

St James Cavalier, Castille Place (2122 3200, www.kreattivita.org)

Studio87 Described as a collective art space, Studio87 is both a platform dedicated to showcasing the work of established and emerging local and foreign artists, as well as a restoration studio. Visit the studio’s Facebook page for the latest events. Liesse Hill (9932 4466)

Old Theatre Street (2124 6389, www.teatrumanoel.com.mt)

Valletta Contemporary

104, St Lucia Street (2728 0028)

Housed within a 400-year-old former warehouse, this independent exhibition space serves as a hub for Malta’s contemporary art scene, showcasing the work of local and international artists, as well as an educational space through its outreach programme.

Tadaam

15, 16, 17, East Street (2124 1667, www.vallettacontemporary.com)

Dubbed a bottle shop with a twist, Tadaam is an inviting space to buy and savour a wide selection of wine, alcohol, and drinks from around the world, including local favourites, as well as artisanal cheeses, liqueurs and charcuterie for a tasty treat in an attractive setting. St John’s Square (9970 3565, www.tadaam.mt)

Victor Azzopardi Jewellers Run by fifth generation members of the Azzopardi family, who have been in the jewellery business since 1898, at Victor Azzopardi Jewellers, you’ll find the finest brands for jewellery, watches, silver items, dinner sets and gifts for special occasions, as well as a bespoke service for custom-made engagement rings. 31, 32 St Anne Street, Floriana (2123 3715, www.victorazzopardi.com). Also 178, Marina Street, Pieta (2010 3715)

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Lot Sixty One

Sunday in Scotland

CAFÉS

Caffe Cordina In operation for more than 180 years, Caffe Cordina, which you can find in the heart of Pjazza Regina, has long been a local favourite. This family-run institution has evolved to incorporate a restaurant, tea rooms, pasticceria, coffee bar and gelateria, set within sumptuous interiors. 244, Republic Street (2065 0400, www.caffecordina.com)

Grano This modest bagel and sandwich bar packs a real punch through its mouth-watering menu of loaded snacks. The range of tantalising fillings includes six-hour slow-roasted pork shoulder, truffle mayo, mortadella from Bologna, pistachio pesto, veal pastrami, crispy bacon and much more. 26, St Lucia Street (2124 2718)

Kantina Café & Wine Located beneath the trees in the idyllic St John’s Square, Kantina is a pleasant choice at all times of the day – be it for a quiet lunch indoors within the kantina (cellar), or for a relaxed dinner with a bottle of wine enjoyed outdoors in the beautiful square. St John’s Square (2723 0096, www.kantinamalta.com)

Lot Sixty One For the team at Lot Sixty One, roasting and serving topquality coffee is the ultimate prerogative. Their green beans are sourced from all over the world and hand-

roasted on location, while the expert baristas deliver consistently great cups of coffee in a friendly atmosphere. 30, Old Theatre Street (7984 1561, www.lotsixtyonecoffeemalta.com). Also Spinola Park, St Julian’s

Museum Café This retro, family-run café appears preserved in time. Inside, you’ll find a treasure trove of knick-knacks and memorabilia that reveal its origins, way back in 1921. You’ll find a selection of local and traditional snacks and dishes at very reasonable prices. 24, Melita Street (2124 2833)

Sally Port The charming Sally Port is gaining a following for its coffee and friendly service as much as it is for its delicious pizzas. Expect a selection of warm and savoury snacks, sweets and drinks, as well as a delightful variety of pizzas made with fresh, mouth-watering ingredients. St Nicholas Street (2730 2222)

Sunday in Scotland Every chocolate, cake or biscuit at Sunday in Scotland is hand-made and prepared with passion. Grab a table on the steps and dig into a delectable slice of cake or chocolate bar, or have an assorted box beautifully packaged to take with you. 173, St Lucia Street (9999 6656, www.sundayinscotland.com). Also 39, Main Street, St Julian’s; 10, The Strand, Sliema; Malta International Airport

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La Pira Maltese Kitchen

59 Republic

FUSION

Manon Gastro Bar & Bistro The 1920s-inspired Manon brings a dose of old-world charm to the capital with an exotic menu that draws from Maltese, Mediterranean and Asian cuisines. It offers plates and platters to share, gua bao buns, udon noodles, ravioli, and a selection of fish, meat and poultry main dishes, topped off with a dizzying drinks menu for all hours of the day. 11, South Street (2713 8762, www.manon.mt)

Wagyu Bar & Kitchen As its name suggests, Wagyu beef is a central part of the menu at this Asian fusion eatery – be it tartare or nigiristyle, cooked on the traditional robata grill or served as a tagliata dish. The tempting menu also offers a choice of sushi, wok dishes, ramen, and Japanese curries. Old Theatre Street (7942 1523). Also Main Street, Mellieha

La Pira Maltese Kitchen La Pira remains one of the top choices in Valletta for traditional Maltese cuisine. The eatery is small and familyrun, and the food is hearty and flavourful. The local rabbit dish is a firm favourite, which you can enjoy at one of the outdoor tables on Merchants Street while watching the world go by. 35, Merchants Street (7906 8114, www.lapiramaltesekitchen.com)

Nenu the Artisan Baker Each dish served at Nenu’s is as authentically Maltese as it can get. Housed within a restored, former bakery, diners are treated to expertly cooked fare, particularly the pizzastyle ftira – a dough base topped with locally sourced ingredients and cooked inside the original, over-100-yearold, wood-fired stone oven. 143, St Dominic Street (2258 1535, www.nenuthebaker.com) MEDITERRANEAN

59 Republic MALTESE

King’s Own Band Club Bar & Restaurant This casual dining spot – within the charming King’s Own band club – in Valletta’s busy, main street, run by accomplished chef Roberta Preca, serves authentic, traditional local and Mediterranean cuisines. You may also dine al fresco, and enjoy live music performances throughout summer. 274, Republic Street (2123 0281) 96 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Dining at 59 Republic is an experience – from the fine food expertly prepared by executive chef Maria Sammut and her team, to the upscale setting in the stunning St George’s Square, it delivers on all fronts. The menu, which changes regularly, blends classic and contemporary cuisines expertly. St George’s Square (7926 4613, www.fiftyninerepublic.com)

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The Harbour Club

ION Harbour

Aaron’s Kitchen Using the freshest ingredients and a lot of skill, chef patron Aaron Degabriele, who leads this family-run restaurant, presents an eclectic menu of exciting dishes rooted in Maltese and Italian cuisines. Look out for the daily specials, and enjoy leafing through the extensive international wine list. 107, Archbishop Street (2123 0636, www.aaronskitchenvalletta.com)

Beati Paoli At this charming eatery, fresh fish, seafood pasta and exquisite cuts of meat keep patrons returning time and again. Choosing from the handful of changing specials is recommended, and you can also sample traditional dishes with a twist, such as local rabbit and fillet of pork. 240, St Paul Street (9930 9319)

Giannini With its intimate ambience and gorgeous views, the family-owned and run Giannini is a safe bet for an excellent meal. Chef patron Aaron DeGiorgio curates the top-notch Mediterranean menu, which includes fresh fish and meat, served to absolute perfection in elegant settings. 23, Windmill Street (2123 7121)

Gracy’s Brasserie Housed within the 17th-century Palazzo Verdelin in St George’s Square, Gracy’s is a hip supper club with a concise but fantastic menu brimming with creativity. 98 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

From the dry-aged beef fillet to the scallop and meagre wellington, you’ll be savouring every forkful while soaking in stunning views. 113, 114, Archbishop Street (2122 8500, www.gracysmalta.com)

Guzé Bistro At the cosy Guzé Bistro, which boasts elegant settings and vintage décor, you can choose from the à la carte menu – the pappardelle with wild boar and truffle cream caught our eye – or a six-course fish- or meat-based degustation menu. Either way, patrons are in for a treat. 22, Old Bakery Street (2123 9686, www.guzebistro.com)

The Harbour Club A converted, 18th-century warehouse is now the home of The Harbour Club, a sophisticated eatery just a few seconds’ walk from the promenade overlooking Grand Harbour. It offers a splendid Mediterranean menu laced with French influence, which changes seasonally and never disappoints. 4, 5, Barriera Wharf, Liesse Hill (2122 2332, www.theharbourclubmalta.com)

ION Harbour This one-Michelin star restaurant, situated on the rooftop of the remarkable Iniala Harbour House hotel, is considered among Malta’s finest eateries. Dining here is a complete and carefully curated experience, where guests are delighted with superb dishes that are unmatched in form and flavour. Iniala Harbour House, 11, St Barbara Bastion (9911 0166, www.ionharbour.com)

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Palazzo Preca

Risette

Noni This superb, one-Michelin star restaurant, headed by chef and founder Jonathan Brincat, reinterprets Maltese and Mediterranean dishes in expertly inventive ways. The menu also hints at classic French cuisine, but without lots of fuss and frills, resulting in infallibly exquisite plates in a charming setting. 211, Republic Street (2122 1441, www.noni.com.mt)

Palazzo Preca Sisters Ramona and Roberta Preca bring heaps of gastronomic experience to Palazzo Preca, an elegant eatery set within a refurbished, 16th-century palazzo. The extensive menu and specials board feature plenty of pasta, fresh fish and seafood house specialities, as well as meat and poultry dishes. 54, Strait Street (2122 6777, www.palazzoprecavalletta.com)

Pastaus If a genuine, hearty plate of pasta is what you’re after, be sure to check out Pastaus, a casual restaurant that specialises exclusively in fresh pasta dishes. Diners can

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choose their favourite pasta from the bar and sauce from the menu, which includes several tasty classics and original creations. 123, Old Theatre Street (2702 3141)

Risette Set within the elegant Casa Ellul, dinner at Risette never disappoints. Chef Steve Scicluna shares his passion for flavour through delicate dishes that are based on French cuisine, but defined by Japanese technique and ingredients, creating dishes that are memorable both to look at, and to eat. Casa Ellul, 81, Old Theatre Street (2122 4821, www.risette.com.mt)

Rubino Formerly a confectionary, established in Valletta in 1906, this local stalwart presents diners with flavourful, classic Maltese and Italian dishes, skilfully prepared by members of the Diacono family, a renowned local culinary dynasty. The menu is ever-changing, but expect nothing less than excellent fare on each visit. 53, Old Bakery Street (2122 4656, www.rubinomalta.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 99

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Samizu

SHAUN SPITERI

E AT & D R I N K

Tico Tico

Samizu

Tico Tico

Dining by the water’s edge doesn’t get much better than this. Set within the Marina di Valletta, guests are treated to sumptuous food – consider the ricotta and pear crepes for breakfast or the signature Samizu meat board for dinner – and refreshing cocktails at Samizu, with gorgeous views to boot.

This popular tapas bar and restaurant on the legendary Strait Street is also the playground of chef Nicky Diacono, who keeps thirsty patrons satiated with his excellent sharing menu that draws on the Barcelona way of life. From truffle mac ‘n cheese to ox cheek arancini, this might be the best bar food you’ve eaten.

Marina di Valletta, Hay Wharf, Pietà (7972 6498, www.samizu.mt)

61, Strait Street (7713 2622)

Sotto Pinsa Romana

Trabuxu Bistro

Roman-style pizza has found a home in Malta through Sotto Pinsa Romana. The tastiest and freshest toppings are complemented by the excellent, light, oval-shaped pinsa base, made from four different types of flour, that is leavened for 72 hours. With several other Sotto eateries across Malta, this one is not to be missed.

Since 2010, Trabuxu has held its own as one of Valletta’s most popular bistros. Husband-and-wife team Kris and Krista run the show with impeccable service and attention to detail, while the food is consistently exquisite. The stylish décor and objets d’art add to the welcoming setting at Trabuxu, which has a strict over-12 age policy.

32, South Street (2122 0077, www.zeroseimalta.com)

8, 9, South Street (2122 0357, www.trabuxu.com.mt)

Taproom With a blend of vintage-bar-meets-rustic-brasserie and cool, industrial detailing, Taproom is a social space that’s ideal for lunch, afternoon drinks accompanied by a quick bite, or a capably prepared cocktail with a delicious dinner, all within stylish interiors or at a table in the lively street. 53A, Old Theatre Street (2749 1316, www.taproomvalletta.com)

Trattoria Da Pippo Trattoria Da Pippo is one of those eateries where time stands still – the menu is off-the-cuff, so you might be tempted to try a little bit of everything, and before you know it, you emerge into the street after a very long lunch. The vibe is laidback and the food never fails to impress, as patrons are served whatever is fresh on the day. 136, Melita Street (7947 4474) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 101

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E AT & D R I N K

Under Grain

Alchemy

Under Grain

N Japanese Bistrot

Celebrated chef Victor Borg leads a stellar team at Under Grain, which is one of only five local restaurants to be awarded a Michelin star. The ambience is informally luxurious, and the expertly curated menu means patrons are served with glorious plates that are akin to contemporary works of art. Housed above it is Grain Street, a casual, streetside eatery that also boasts a Michelin bib gourmand award.

This bistro and sake bar – a page of the menu is dedicated to the drink alone – offers a mouth-watering menu of sharing dishes, fresh salads, sushi, deep-fried items and main courses. The food is flavourful and authentic, as is the intimate space, designed in minimalist, Japanese style.

167, Merchants Street (2235 4167, www.grain.mt)

67 Kapitali

Zero Sei At this cosy trattoria, guests are treated to exquisite Italian fare reminiscent of the Roman way of cooking. Pasta is undoubtedly the star, and the classic carbonara is a musttry, made with egg, pork cheek and pecorino, although you can’t go wrong with the pasta Amatriciana or cacio e pepe either. 75, Old Theatre Street (2122 2010, www.zeroseimalta.com) ORIENTAL

Aki With its delightful contemporary take on Japanese cuisine and acute attention to detail, Aki is a no-brainer for oriental cuisine in the capital. Both a restaurant and a lounge bar, you can sip on sake or cocktails while sampling a selection of fantastic Japanese fare. Strait Street c/w St Lucia Street (2737 9053, www.akimalta.com) 102 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

139, St Christopher Street (2730 0781) BARS

Beer aficionados will love 67 Kapitali, a charming corner bar that is now a go-to for an extensive selection of craft beers from around the world, beer on draught – including several local brews – and a variety of sandwiches, salads and platters that make for a perfect pairing. 67, Old Bakery Street (2738 0010, www.67kapitali.com)

Alchemy Experience the art of mixology at Alchemy and sample the inventive, high-end, signature and classic cocktails, as well as tasty bar bites in luxurious settings. Besides an exclusive bar area, there is also a private room for more intimate gatherings. 93, 94, Strait Street (9968 9949, www.alchemyvalletta.com)

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E AT & D R I N K

CLIVE CAMILLERI

BRIAN GRECH

Café Society

Kingsway

Bridge Bar Throughout summer, Bridge Bar attracts throngs of visitors to its doors to enjoy a drink on the lively outdoor steps of St Ursula Street. While tiny, this much-loved bar, located on one of Valletta’s bridges, is popular among locals, especially on Friday evenings when live jazz shows wow the crowd. 258, St Ursula Street (7947 4227)

Café Society The intimate Café Society welcomes a diverse and lively crowd of loyal patrons who love this hangout for its creative cocktails and well-stocked bar as much as they do for its free-spirited vibe. Live performances are a regular feature here, whether jazz performances on the steps or a DJ on the decks. 13, St John Street

Gugar – Hangout & Bar Gugar is the brainchild of a group of friends who sought to create a warm and welcoming space to hang out. The atmosphere is casual and the food includes lots of vegetarian and vegan options, attracting anyone who fancies a good drink, a bite to eat and a friendly chat. 89A, Republic Street (2703 2837)

Kennedy Bar & Bistro After half a century of abandonment, the original Kennedy bar was lovingly restored into a vintage-themed watering 104 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

hole in the lively Strait Street and offers an excellent choice of premium spirits, cocktails, as well as platters, tapas, burgers, and regular live entertainment. Strait Street (9935 4403)

Kingsway This hip cocktail bar and café attracts many a well-suited professional who works in the city. It is open all day, so whether you’re after a snack for breakfast, a refreshing cocktail to accompany a juicy burger, or a cold drink while watching the world go by, you’ll find it all at Kingsway. 57, Republic Street (2703 7720, www.kingswayvalletta.com)

Legligin Wine Bar With a name that roughly translates to ‘guzzlers’, it is no surprise that this cosy bar offers an exceptional list of wines from around the world. The food is a must-try too – consider the tasting menu for a selection of fresh and delicious plates to share alongside a good bottle. 117, 119, St Lucia Street (7993 2985)

Maori It doesn’t get much more laidback than Maori, where everyone is welcome to enjoy a drink on the terrace, which boasts lovely views of the open sea, some awesome murals that adorn its façade, and a family of cats that are lovingly cared for by the hospitable owner. Il-Lanca Street (7995 1289)

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Trabuxu Wine Bar

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E AT & D R I N K

Yard 32

The Ordnance Pub & Restaurant With a storied past that began in 1979, this traditional, British-style pub has been a popular hangout in Valletta for decades. Today, it boasts modern and stylish interiors, and outdoor seating, as well as an extensive and tempting food offering, a vast selection of drinks, and a spirited atmosphere. Ordnance Street (2123 0547)

The Pub This old-school, typically British pub was the infamous last stop for actor Oliver Reed, who was on the island filming ‘Gladiator’ when he met his shocking and untimely demise. At this cosy haunt, you’ll find several craft beers, whiskies and spirits in a convivial setting. 136, Archbishop Street (7905 2522)

Rootz This traditional, Italian osteria, wine and cocktail bar can be described as a feel-good place, where live music, great wines, cocktails and digestifs (including grappa), and a tasty selection of north Italian specialities – served by lovely staff – come together to create uplifting evenings. 11, Strait Street (2713 5923)

San Paolo Naufrago This small, family-run and cosy bar is a stalwart of St Lucia Street, well-known among locals for its friendly service and lively feel. Enjoy a glass of wine or beer inside, or on

the picturesque steps, while tucking into a delicious pizza that this place is well-known for. 11, St Lucia Street (9951 1854)

StrEat Whisky & Bistro Head below street level into the stylish and much-loved StrEat, where whisky and gin lovers are absolutely spoilt for choice. Adjacent to the bustling bar is a bistro with a mouth-watering selection of dishes served from brunch to dinner time, including their ever-popular gourmet burgers. Strait Street (7778 7328)

Trabuxu Wine Bar Housed within a 400-year-old vaulted cellar, the charming Trabuxu wine bar has been delighting patrons for over 15 years with its excellent selection of local and international wines, accompanied by delicious savoury and sweet delicacies that include premium cheeses and cured meats. 2, Strait Street (2122 3036, www.trabuxu.com.mt)

Yard 32 Calling all gin lovers! Nicknamed ‘the gin and tapas bar’, this is the only bar in Malta that serves over 180 types of gin and a similarly dizzying choice of tonic water, which you can enjoy at a cosy table inside or in the street, along with a handful of tapas from the extensive food display. 32, Strait Street (9993 6734, www.yard32.com)

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19 Rooms

19 Rooms This expertly restored, 18th-century palazzo fuses Baroque and classical elements with modern design, providing guests with an exquisite experience. The rooms range from deluxe and superior options to penthouse and duplex suites, and guests are treated to free continental breakfast featuring largely locally sourced ingredients.

Casa Ellul

87, St Christopher Street (2010 6029, www.19rooms.com.mt)

66 St Paul’s Housed within an architectural gem of a building – a modernised, 17th-century palazzo – 66 St Paul’s offers a charming stay. The variety of room options, which includes large suites with a traditional balcony or private terrace, is complemented by excellent facilities, such as the courtyard café and rooftop plunge pool.

Casa Ellul This Victorian-era palazzo is among the most upscale boutique hotels in the city. The attention to detail is second to none, and each of its nine luxurious suites feature exquisite décor and antique pieces with an unmistakably Maltese feel. The service is attentive yet discreet, where individual needs are well catered for.

66, St Paul Street (2711 2185, www.66saintpaulsmalta.com)

81, Old Theatre Street (2122 4821, www.casaellul.com)

The Barrister Hotel

Castille Hotel

This four-star hotel boasts an intimate lodging experience in luxurious settings through 18 stylishly designed rooms; the top-floor rooms have large terraces, two of which include private hot tubs. All the rooms are soundproof and equipped with several comforts. 57, St Christopher Street (2033 0033, www.thebarristerhotel.com) 106 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

With its enviable location and 38 charming rooms, Castille Hotel is a great-value option that places you within walking distance of everything in Valletta. It houses three eateries, including the lovely Le Cinq on the rooftop and the cosy coffee shop at street level. Castille Square (2124 3677, www.hotelcastillemalta.com)

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The Embassy Valletta Hotel

The Coleridge

The Embassy Valletta Hotel

Named after English poet, Samuel Taylor Coleridge, who lived in Old Bakery Street during his time in Malta, The Coleridge houses six beautifully designed suites equipped with five-star amenities, including an espresso machine and minibar, while a whisky bar greets guests on the ground floor.

With its 81 spacious rooms that range from deluxe to suite options and first-rate facilities that include a rooftop infinity pool and direct access to the Embassy Cinema, you’re guaranteed a great stay at this sophisticated hotel, which is built on the site of a former hotel that dates back to the 1800s.

89-92, Old Bakery Street (7947 4141, www.thecoleridgehotel.com)

173, Strait Street (2016 9000, www.embassyvallettahotel.com)

The Cumberland

The Gomerino Hotel

Following an extensive restoration, the 16th-century palazzo that houses The Cumberland hotel was transformed to offer a modern accommodation experience. All 23 rooms display a modest yet elegant design, while a peaceful courtyard and a rooftop terrace with views of Grand Harbour are a real treat.

As the latest luxury accommodation to grace Valletta’s hotel offering, The Gomerino delivers on all fronts. From the 44 spectacularly finished double bedrooms, to the indulgent spa and rooftop pool and bar deck with breathtaking views of Grand Harbour, guests are left wanting for nothing.

111, St John Street (2016 5200, www.theneucollective.com)

247, St Paul Street (2226 0400, www.thegomerinohotel.com)

Domus Zamittello

Grand Hotel Excelsior

Boasting a regal design that harks back to the era of the palazzo’s original, 17th-century interiors, the stunning Domus Zamittello features 21 luxury rooms and suites, a majestic entrance leading to an open courtyard, a Baroque staircase and exceptional sala nobile and sala del conte reception rooms.

The Grand Hotel Excelsior lives up to its name as an imposing, five-star lodging option in the area. It has 429 rooms and suites spread over 10 floors, equipped with a workstation, satellite TV and a mini bar, and offers sea views, a spa and beauty centre, a private beach, and its own 30-berth marina.

7, Republic Street (2122 7700, www.domuszamittello.com)

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Iniala Harbour House

The Phoenicia Malta

A. PRAGA PHOTOGRAPHY

Iniala Harbour House With unmatched views of Grand Harbour from its stunning location atop St Barbara Bastion, Iniala Harbour House, which is spread over four historical buildings, has elevated Malta’s luxury accommodation offering. From the 23 magnificently designed rooms to the Essensi spa in the hotel’s vaults and its own one-Michelin star eatery, Iniala promises an unforgettable stay.

Palazzo Consiglia

11, St Barbara Bastion (2166 1111, www.inialamalta.com)

La Falconeria Named after the street’s historical past – which was used by the Knights of St John to breed and train their falcons – every corner of this 43-room hotel is steeped in history. The central courtyard is a calming oasis, while the inhouse restaurant, L’Artiglio, serves a sumptuous breakfast for patrons.

Palazzo Consiglia Formerly a traditional Maltese townhouse, Palazzo Consiglia was wonderfully converted to house a quaint boutique hotel with 13 rooms, each one defined by a distinct style and packed to the hilt with modern amenities, including a sound system that connects to Bluetooth, an e-Concierge tablet and a 40-inch TV.

62, Melita Street (2247 6600, www.lafalconeria.com)

102, St Ursula Street (2124 4222, www.ikonikacollection.com/palazzoconsiglia)

Palais Le Brun

Palazzo Rosaria Boutique Hotel

Housed within a restored, 17th-century Baroque palace, the beautiful Palais Le Brun comprises 28 rooms finished with finesse, including marble bathrooms, classic furniture and espresso machines, as well as a rooftop terrace and pool deck that invite guests to relax and lap up the sun.

The delightful Palazzo Rosaria offers guests a range of wonderfully finished double and triple rooms, and an executive suite decked with its own private terrace and hot tub. All of the spacious rooms are equipped with standard amenities, including tea/coffee-making facilities, as well as a sofa bed.

101, Old Bakery Street (2226 0300, www.palaislebrun.com)

152, Melita Street (2166 9028, www.palazzorosaria.com)

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The Saint John

The Phoenicia Malta

SU29

Established over 70 years ago, the elegant and historic Phoenicia hotel is Malta’s only member of the global hospitality consortium Leading Hotels of the World. Set within a traditional Art Deco building, everything about The Phoenicia is the definition of modern luxury, including the stunning infinity pool overlooking Marsamxett Harbour.

The enchanting SU29 is home to eight rooms and suites, each one meticulously designed and decorated in line with its unique character, such as the luxury fitness suite which comes with its own gold punch bag and boxing gloves, or the the lavish Presidential suite that overlooks St Ursula Steps. 29, St Ursula Steps (2124 2929, www.su29hotel.com)

The Mall, Floriana (2122 5241, www.phoeniciamalta.com)

Rosselli AX Privilege Classic Renaissance and Baroque architecture meet contemporary design in the five-star Rosselli boutique hotel, which has 25 designer rooms and suites, including the extravagant Sixteen 34 suite that comes with modern workspaces and Italian coffee-making stations. Among its many impressive facilities is the superb Under Grain, which enjoys a coveted Michelin star. 167, Merchants Street (2124 5245, www.rossellimalta.com)

The Saint John Once the residence and shop of a former merchant, The Saint John hotel is designed around the theme of urban living. From comfort to deluxe rooms, all of the cosy and spacious lodging options combine great taste and technology, while the hotel’s in-house Cheeky Monkey gastropub offers delicious fare.

Ursulino Valletta The fun-loving Ursolino offers five-star hotel standards with the personalised service of a family-run boutique B&B, including quirky design elements in its beautifully decorated rooms and suites, and scrumptious breakfast. Head on up to the fantastic roof terrace for unobstructed views of Valletta’s skyline. 82A, St Ursula Street (2122 8024, www.ursulinovalletta.com)

The Vincent Named after the man who was born and raised in this 400-year-old palazzo more than 80 years ago, The Vincent is a welcoming lodging option in the city with its nine colourful suites, each assigned an evocative name, such as Dolce Vita and Bordello, and equipped with several amenities, including an espresso machine. 84, Hospital Street (2124 0408, www.thevincenthotelmalta.com)

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St Julian’s This buzzing, cosmopolitan town is the island’s hub for all manners of fun, food experiences and entertainment. From casinos, clubs and luxury shops to an abundance of bars and restaurants, you’ll find it all in St Julian’s. 14

nce a quiet, seaside town and a place to call home for generations of fishermen, today, St Julian’s could be described as a veritable tourist destination. For years now, it has been considered Malta’s nightlife and entertainment capital, bursting with restaurants, bars, clubs, casinos, shops, and countless other places of leisure, attracting locals and visitors alike in droves.

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Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel (Balluta Church)

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Cleland & Souchet

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10 Eden SuperBowl 11 Casino Malta 12 Bay Street 13 St George’s Bay 14 Apollo by Dee Spas 15 Dragonara Casino

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The town comprises four main areas, namely St Andrew’s, Ta’ Giorni, Tal-Ghoqod, and Paceville, with the latter having the largest offering of nightlife venues. If you get to it from the adjoining Sliema promenade, you will likely pass through Balluta, a neighbourhood named after the oak trees which shelter its piazza. The vibe here is laidback, and you’ll spot a handful of historical gems surrounding the pretty Balluta Bay, such as the Gothic Revival Carmelite Church with its long and storied history, and the unmistakable Art Nouveau-style Balluta Buildings. Such landmarks blend with new, modern establishments, mainly cafés and restaurants that dot the seafront and offer magnificent views alongside delectable food options, be it for brunch, lunch or dinner. Continue onwards towards Spinola Bay and look out for the colourful fishing boats and old

boathouses for a glimpse of the town’s past as a fishing village. Hard to miss is the inverted LOVE monument by renowned Maltese architect Richard England, which, when the nearby waters are still, spells the word in a captivating reflection. Up the hill towards the centre of town is Portomaso; an area hosting one of Malta’s tallest buildings – the Portomaso Business Tower, its own five-star marina which can berth more than 100 yachts, luxury shopping outlets, and top-quality watering holes and restaurants. If a clubbing experience is what you seek, keep heading towards Paceville, Malta’s prime nightlife hotspot, home to several party venues, bars and eateries. Further along the coast is the popular St George’s Bay, which draws sun-seekers all summer long and is conveniently located near many other leisure venues, including a shopping mall, cinema, and plenty more bars and restaurants.

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ST JULIAN’S

Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel (Balluta Church)

Portomaso Marina

H E R I TA G E Balluta Buildings A rare sight of Art Nouveau architecture on the island, the landmark that is Balluta Buildings was long considered among the most prestigious residential units in Malta. It was built in 1928 according to the designs of architect Giuseppe Psaila, and till today, the Grade 1 monument is celebrated for its sculpted façade adorned with angel motifs and elegant flying buttresses.

Bay Street

the promenade that stretches from Qui-Si-Sana in Sliema to St Julian’s.

This five-star marina, which forms part of the Portomaso residential complex, caters for 110 fully serviced berths. The marina is enveloped by several quality bars and restaurants, placing it in an ideal position for those stepping off their boat for a lively evening out.

Balluta Bay

(2138 7803, www.portomasomarina.com)

Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel (Balluta Church)

Spinola Bay

The towering Balluta Church, which was built on the structure of a Neo-Gothic church established in 1859, is another landmark in the area. The Gothic Revival Carmelite Church there is today dates back to the early 20th century, although it endured several modifications in the years since, and still fulfils its duties as the heart of Catholic activity in the parish. Balluta Bay

AT T R A C T I O N S Balluta Bay This small sandy bay is at the heart of the wider area referred to as Balluta Bay, which incorporates a lively square with benches, cafés and restaurants, as well as a part of

LEISURE

Portomaso Marina

A small yet charming inlet, which is home to the famed LOVE monument, Spinola Bay has transformed dramatically from its bygone days as a quiet, fishing spot. Today, it is lined with busy restaurants, but you can still watch small boats bobbing in its calm waters and plenty of passers-by strolling on the promenade.

St George’s Bay In the heart of the entertainment district of Paceville is St George’s Bay, a man-made sandy beach which enjoys Blue Flag status. It is surrounded by restaurants, bars, a shopping mall and several nightlife spots, so you can be sure to find anything you could need, from sunrise to the early hours.

Bay Street With the longest opening hours of all the malls in Malta (MonSun 10am-10pm), Bay Street is a complete leisure destination, home to plenty of retail brands, dining options, the four-star be.Hotel and an entertainment centre. You’ll find a range of local and international brands, such as Lindex, Sunlab, Armani Exchange, Gant, Guess, Hebe and Tommy Hilfiger among others. There’s no shortage of places to dine either, among them the international Planet Hollywood and Rainforest Cafe, and parking is free with any purchase. St George’s Bay (2366 1585, www.baystreet.com.mt)

Casino Malta This extensive 3,000sqm casino features more than 320 slot machines, 23 casino tables, 10 poker tables, and a sports betting and bar area, and hosts competitions and international poker tournaments. Patrons can also try their hand at a variety of table games, from American roulette to Black Jack and Punto Banco. Eden Place, St Augustine Street (2371 0555, www.casinomalta.com.mt)

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Cynergi Health & Fitness Club

Cleland & Souchet Luxury is the name of the game at Cleland & Souchet, which offers an exquisite range of contemporary home décor, glassware, leather goods, wine and bar accessories, as well as wines, champagnes, spirits, cigars, and fine foods. Adjoined to the shop is the first C&S Wine Café to open its doors, which serves brunch, snacks and a vast selection of drinks. Block 14, Level 0, Portomaso (2138 9898, www.clelandsouchet.com)

Cynergi Health & Fitness Club This health and fitness club is among the best equipped locally, with experienced personal trainers at the ready to assist. Spread over 2,000sqm, it features a studio for the more than 40 group classes, a dedicated cardio gym, a hammer strength plate-loaded zone, two squash courts, and access to the InterContinental Malta’s indoor pool and Turkish Hammam. St Augustine Street, St George’s Bay (2371 0700, www.cynergi.com.mt)

Dee Spas Offering a range of luxury spa and beauty treatments from around the world, Dee Spas, situated within Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay, among other prime sites across the island, provides tailored wellness experiences using a fusion of therapies and unique blends of ingredients. You can choose between pampering treatments for the body, face, hands and feet, scrub and wrap rituals, as well as a selection of Ayurverdic holistic experiences. Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay (2370 2501, www.deespas.com)

Dragonara Casino The Dragonara Casino’s location within a stunning property built in 1870 for a Maltese marquis, provides a distinct casino experience. You’ll find a vast selection of slot machines, table games that include roulette and Blackjack, scenic poker rooms, a restaurant, and a sports bar where you can order a bite to eat while watching your bets on a live screen.

Eden SuperBowl

Dragonara Palace, Dragonara Road (2092 1000, www.dragonara.mt)

Eden Cinemas For almost 30 years, Malta’s largest cinema complex has been screening a choice of Hollywood releases, shown in English, and a selection of alternative movies across its many screens. Tickets may be purchased online or from the ticket booth. St Augustine Street, St George’s Bay (2371 0400, www.edencinemas.com.mt)

The Playground Sprawled across 2,000sqm of partying space, The Playground has consistently maintained its position as one of Malta’s leading underground clubbing venues with regular guest appearances from well-known, local DJs as well as international artists, all year round. Dragonara Road

Eden SuperBowl The Eden SuperBowl, which is Malta’s best-equipped bowling alley, promises fun and leisure through computerised 10-pin bowling across 18 lanes, and includes a bar and arcade games area. Entertainment is never lacking here – from Disco Bowling on Friday nights to national bowling leagues and friendly contests for all the family, you’re guaranteed a fun time. St George’s Road, St George’s Bay (2371 0770, www.edensuperbowl.com)

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Portomaso Casino This casino, which forms part of the luxurious Portomaso complex, offers patrons a wide variety of gaming options, from slot machines, poker games and tournaments to several table games, ranging from Roulette and Black Jack to Punto Banco. The onsite brasserie serves a delectable Mediterranean menu throughout the day. Level -1, Portomaso (2138 3777, www.portomasocasino.com)

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E AT & D R I N K

Shoreditch

PARALLEL ARCHITECTS/PETER MERCIECA

AMERICAN

Hugo’s Burger Bar This eatery in the heart of Paceville – with its classic rockabilly diner style with a modern twist – is bound to satisfy even the most intense burger cravings. The patties are hand-pressed using Black Angus beef, served in a delicious brioche bun, and topped with several mouthwatering ingredients. Salmon and veggie options are also available. St Augustine Street, St George’s Bay (2016 2492, www.hugosburgerbar.com)

Shoreditch Inspired by East London vibes, Shoreditch serves the ultimate comfort food-style dishes using top-notch ingredients. Halloumi fries, loaded hot dogs and decadent pancake stacks are on the menu, but the scrumptious burgers are what earned this casual eatery a legion of fans, including some innovative options, such as the duck burger served with duck confit. 43, Wilga Street (2138 6748) CAFÉS

Crudo Set in the beautiful Balluta Bay, this cosy coffee shop and wine bar offers genuine Italian food using carefully 116 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Crust Bistro & Bar

sourced ingredients, including artisanal cheeses and cured meats from various Italian regions. The breakfast and lunch menu includes focaccias, salads and platters; in the evening, you can enjoy a bottle of wine and good music in a relaxed atmosphere. 25, Main Street (9914 0837)

Crust Bistro & Bar This trendy eatery, the brainchild of popular local chef Sean Gravina, fuses the bakery, bar and bistro concepts to offer delectable food at any time of the day. Tuck into eggs Benedict for brunch, a delicious sandwich or crumbly pie for lunch, a coffee and freshly baked doughnut, or even a lovely dinner with a variety of indulgent, vegetarian and healthy options to choose from. Mensija Street (9938 0976)

La Crema Located at the base of the iconic Balluta Buildings, La Crema brings a dose of Sicilian sweetness to this bustling bay area. The extensive menu, offered all day, features breakfast options, bagels, salads, wraps and pasta dishes, and a mouth-watering array of sweets, including croissants, cookies, cannoli, cassata Siciliana, and more. 26, Balluta Buildings, Main Street

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E AT & D R I N K

Hammett’s Mestizo

Emperor of India

Manouche Craft Bakery & Bistro At the heart of this bakery and bistro is an uncompromising passion for French cuisine. Breakfast and brunch are a feast for the senses – sample delicious buns, French toast or eggs Benedict, while an array of mouth-watering dishes is served throughout the day. Leave room for one of their home-made sweets or chocolates – they’re simply exquisite. Spinola Park, Mikiel Ang Borg Street (2704 1478, www.manouche.com.mt) FUSION

Hammett’s Mestizo Based on the meso-south American social dining experience, Hammett’s Mestizo presents culinary influences spanning from central America to the Caribbean and beyond. Led by Venezuelan head chef Rommer ‘Zulu’ Ochoa and chef and restaurateur Chris Hammett, diners are invited to share quality food bursting with authentic flavours in lovely environs. Number 11 Urban Hotel, Schreiber Street (2779 5099, www.hammettsmestizo.com)

Okurama With a vast menu that boasts a range of flavours, from Japanese to Thai, Indian and Eastern cuisines, diners are spoilt for choice at Okurama. The fusion menu features an extensive selection of sushi, sashimi, crispy tempura,

noodles and rice dishes, as well as curries, stir-fries and teppanyakis. Consider the generous all-you-can-eat buffet for €29.50 per person. The Golden Tulip Vivaldi Hotel. Dragonara Road (2785 5888, www.okurama.com.mt). Also 9, Paceville Avenue, St Julian’s; 34, 35, Main Street, St Julian’s; Lourdes Square, San Gwann

Zest Combining Asian and Nikkei (Japanese-Peruvian) cuisines, this elegant eatery takes fusion fare to a higher level with classy and innovative dishes that have earned it a Michelin plate. Set inside an old, beautifully converted townhouse, expect exquisite ceviche, bao buns, noodles and curries, soups and sushi, as well as main dishes, with vegetarian and vegan options. 25, St George’s Road (2138 7600, www.zestflavours.com) INDIAN

Emperor of India This much-loved eatery has been serving northern Indian and Punjabi delicacies for almost 30 years, based on traditional family recipes that have been passed on for generations. The extensive menu features several popular dishes using poultry, beef, lamb and seafood, as well as vegetarian options, side dishes, tandoori breads, and delightful desserts. Elija Zammit Street, Paceville (2137 4595, www.currymalta.com)

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STEVEN ROONEY

Bianco’s

Caviar & Bull

TukTuk Express With over 10 years’ experience delighting patrons with their wholesome cooking, the team behind the rebranded TukTuk bring an exciting concept inspired by Indian street hawkers. At this fast-moving kitchen, you can choose from the varied and vibrant menu of south Indian delicacies or build your own bowl to suit your dietary requirements. St George’s Road (9914 7320, www.tuktuk.com.mt)

Caviar & Bull At Caviar & Bull, diners are taken on a gastronomic journey of flavour and finesse at the hands of celebrated chef patron Marvin Gauci. The innovative eatery offers a fusion of high-quality and experimental cuisines, earning it a mention in the Michelin Guide. Indulge in exquisite dishes from the à la carte menu, or choose from the exciting ‘caviar’, ‘bull’ or mixed degustation menus. St George’s Bay (2759 3301, www.caviarandbull.com.mt)

MEDITERRANEAN

The Avenue

I Monelli

This ever-popular, casual eatery remains a firm favourite for its vast menu, hearty portions, and genuinely good food. You’ll pretty much find it all – pizza, pasta, meat, fish, burgers, salads and more. One of The Avenue’s signature dishes remains the beef wellington, but you’re sure to find something to please everyone if you’re dining here in large numbers.

Named after brothers Riccardo and Luca, I Monelli brings an authentic Sicilian and southern Italian culinary experience to the bustling streets of St Julian’s. You’ll find a selection of typical dishes, including mouth-watering pasta options, but the star is undoubtedly the Neapolitan pizza, cooked to perfection in a wood-fired oven, with plenty of options to choose from.

Gort Street (2135 1753, www.theavenuemalta.com)

63A, Wilga Street (2136 0036, www.imonelli.com.mt)

Bianco’s

Le Majoliche

Whether you’re after an elegant evening meal, a quick bite for lunch, a bottle of wine with something to nibble or a VIP experience with friends, Bianco’s caters for it all without compromising on quality food and service. The largely Mediterranean menu features Maltese influences, offering guests an all-round pleasing experience in lovely surroundings.

Le Majoliche is the brainchild of Fabio, a native of Sicily with a deep love for all things Italian – especially the cuisine. Every dish served is rooted in the Sicilian principles of simple, fresh and flavourful food – from the sardine croquettes and spaghetti with sea urchins, to the seafood risotto, grilled calamari and beef tagliata, which are simply superb.

St George’s Road (2135 9865, www.biancos.info)

Pendergardens, Swieqi (2137 6212, www.lemajolichemalta.com). Also The Strand, Sliema

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E AT & D R I N K

Lore & Fitch

Tapea

Lore & Fitch

Tapea

This excellent steakhouse is the labour of love of Riccardo Lorefice, one of I Monelli’s co-founders, who named the eatery after his family. The menu boasts a selection of delicious dishes, including pasta and plates to share, but the meat is simply a must-try. From scottona and Piedmontese Fiorentina steaks to a 1.2kg tomahawk, it’s a meat lover’s paradise.

With a mission to elevate the status of Spanish cuisine in Malta, the talented team behind Tapea presents an exciting menu rooted in gastronomic traditions typical of the Iberian peninsula. Think cured pork sausage, creamy croquettes, Galician octopus, and the traditional pisto stew, cooked and presented, in small portions, to sheer perfection.

St George’s Road (2138 5000, www.loreandfitch.com)

55, Mensija Street (7979 7922, www.tapea.com)

Seed

Two Buoys

With lovely views of the piazza – including the historical Augustinian priory – of the Hyatt Regency Malta, Seed makes for a splendid dining experience in fashionable surroundings. Based on the farm-to-fork concept, Seed sources top, local and seasonal ingredients to create contemporary dishes that are scrumptious and creative, from brunch to dinner.

The chefs at Two Buoys are bringing Melbourne to Malta’s shores with a tantalising breakfast and brunch menu that features pancakes, eggs, toast, bagels and waffles, and includes several vegan and vegetarian options. For lunch and dinner, you’re spoilt for choice with a selection of pasta dishes and main courses, including the popular Aussie parma.

Hyatt Regency Malta, St George’s Bay (2366 1592)

106, Spinola Road (2122 2221)

Susurrus

U Bistrot

At Susurrus, guests are treated to a feast of exciting Mediterranean cuisine influenced by the diversity of south American food, featuring Argentinian beef and prawns, Peruvian-style lamb, and vegetarian dishes as found in Colombia, all prepared using fresh, local ingredients and avant-garde techniques, contributing to a novel dining experience in stylish settings.

The lovely U Bistrot has it all – a great menu for all times of the day, stylish interiors, and an awesome view of Balluta Bay from its outdoor area. The menu changes regularly according to seasonal produce, with highlights that include eggs Benedict, French toast, linguine prawns and a pulled pork and pineapple burger, as well as a dedicated vegan menu.

St George’s Bay (7728 3342, www.susurrus.mt)

27, Censu Tabone Street (2311 2361, www.ubistrot.com)

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E AT & D R I N K

BRIAN GRECH

RENE ROSSIGNAUD

Obi Japanese Fusion

Zen Japanese Sushi Bar & Teppanyaki

Wigi’s Led by chef Louis (Wigi), this family-run eatery has maintained a loyal following, choosing quality produce and artisanal suppliers above all else. The ever-changing bistro-style menu is a mix of contemporary dishes and classic favourites, prepared with top ingredients, including fresh fish from Gozo, Scottish mussels and meat from Harmony Farm in Ireland. Main Street, Balluta Bay (2137 7504 www.wigiskitchen.com)

Zeri’s With a menu that emphasises fresh fish and seafood, a meal at Zeri’s is a complete Mediterranean experience, with views of the stunning Portomaso Marina. From the sautéed exquisite king prawns and fresh fish of the day to the lamb fillets, expect a delectable meal and a choice of fine wines in vibrant surroundings. Portomaso Marina (2135 9559, www.zerisrestaurant.com) ORIENTAL

Club Sushi While the fresh and extensive choice of sushi is one of the main draws of this eatery, it is also one of just of a handful of places on the island that serves traditional Korean – alongside Japanese – specialities, such as jijimi, pancakes with seafood and vegetables, and beef bulgogi, cooked in a Korean marinade with mushrooms and onions. Ball Street (2733 1555, clubsushimalta.com)

KuYa Asian Pub From a popular food truck to a permanent and even more popular venue in St Julian’s, KuYa is dedicated to crafting authentic Asian dishes teeming with incredible flavours. The yellow Thai curry – a protein of your choice mixed with 120 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

a coconut cream sauce – is a firm favourite, as is the bang bang chicken drizzled with KuYa’s signature peanut and chilli sauce. 20, St George’s Road (2713 6517, www.kuyamalta.com)

Obi Japanese Fusion Since opening its doors in February, Obi quickly established itself as a Japanese fusion restaurant to contend with. Specialising in contemporary cuisine, the delightful menu features a selection of delicious tapas, char-grilled meats including black cod and chicken liver, popular rice and noodle dishes, and innovative mains that will exceed expectations. Ball Street (2138 6184)

Sapporo Ramen EZO Satisfy your cravings for a traditional bowl of ramen at Sapporo Ramen EZO, where genuine Japanese flavours and ingredients, brought directly from Hokkaido, are guaranteed. Take your pick from miso ramen, classic soy-based shoyu ramen, tonkotsu ramen made with pork bone, as well as vegetarian and vegan options, expertly prepared by Japanese chefs. 29, Ball Street (2711 0760)

Zen Japanese Sushi Bar & Teppanyaki As one of the first Japanese restaurants in Malta, Zen is certainly one of the most authentic, widely renowned for its fresh sushi and skilfully prepared dishes with exquisite flavours. Take your pick from the sushi or teppanyaki à la carte menus, which include lobster tail, tuna belly, chicken thighs and Angus beef fillet, served with miso soup, rice and vegetables. Portomaso Marina (2138 6500, www.themarinarestaurants.com)

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ARTHUR PIMENOV

E AT & D R I N K

Chalice Bar & Lounge

BARS

Balluta Bar Set in a side road merely metres away from Balluta Bay, this bar remains a popular neighbourhood hangout for its vast selection of over 60 beers, good food and laidback vibe. Sports enthusiasts also flock here to watch live screenings of all sports from around the world. Manwel Dimech Street (9947 5364)

Chalice Bar & Lounge This upscale bar and lounge attracts a more mature crowd to this area of Paceville, offering an intimate and top-quality space for after-work drinks or an evening date. Allow the expert mixologists to create a unique cocktail for you, or choose from the vast selection of wines, whiskies, gins and more. 2, Dobbie Street (2137 5020, www.chalicebar.com.mt)

City of London Once a place of refuge for British soldiers during World War I, City of London is one of Malta’s oldest bars, and has been in the hands of the Borg family for over 45 years. It attracts visitors all year round, especially on balmy summer evenings, for its casual vibe and unbeatable views of Balluta Bay. Main Street (2133 1706)

The Dubliner Malta For a warm, Irish welcome in Malta, head over to The Dubliner in Spinola, hailed as the best spot for Guinness on the island and where you can expect genuine pub grub, such as bangers and mash, fish and chips, and Irish pride,

The Thirsty Barber

consisting of tender beef cooked in Guinness. The choice of beer is dizzying, and major sports events are screened. Gorg Borg Olivier Street (2136 7106, www.irishpubinmalta.com)

Hugo’s Terrace & Rooftop The flagship venue of the popular entertainment Hugo’s brand, Hugo’s Terrace, which sits right on the edge of St George’s Bay, is loved for its bold cocktails, stylish interiors and energetic vibe. Inside, you’ll find a mix of high and low tables, with lounge areas for group events, while the rooftop offers lovely views of the bay, with indoor and outdoor seating. St George’s Road (2016 2495, www.hugosterrace.com)

The Thirsty Barber Step through the red telephone box-inspired door into this prohibition-style bar, which transports visitors back to the roaring 1920s. The immense attention to detail at this lively bar sets the scene for a night to remember, complete with the most original cocktails, which draw inspiration from the speakeasies that characterised the era. Ball Street (9965 3012, www.thethirstybarber.com)

Tiffany Set in the picturesque Portomaso Marina, this upscale boutique bar boasts a drinks menu of over 300 wines and champagnes, rare whiskies, cognacs, gins, ports and sherries, as well as a curated food menu to complement a luxe experience, topped off with sumptuous interiors and gorgeous views. Portomaso Marina (2136 9100, www.tiffany.mt)

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SLEEP

Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay

Boho Hostel

be.Hotel Malta Located within the Bay Street complex, the stylish and Eco-certified, four-star be.Hotel is a haven of relaxation in this urban town. With 263 contemporary rooms and 30 suites, there are various lodging options to choose from, all of which offer plenty of amenities. Be sure to spend time by the stunning rooftop pool and in the lounge area to enjoy the sweeping views of St George’s Bay. St George’s Bay (2371 9000, www.behotelmalta.com)

Boho Hostel Housed within a large, re-purposed villa, this bohemianstyle hostel, that caters for independent travellers and backpackers, offers excellent value for money. The dormitories – which overlook the large garden, itself a peaceful, communal space – sleep up to six guests each, while a private double room with an ensuite bathroom is also available. Villa Cycas, Dun Guzeppi Xerri Street (2765 6008, www.bohohostel.com)

Cavalieri Art Hotel Set right by the water’s edge, this four-star hotel offers modern sophistication and short distances to several restaurants and bars. All rooms come with Wi-Fi, while guests can make use of the many facilities, including a fitness studio, a lido with views of Balluta Bay, an indoor pool, a spa, a buffet restaurant and a stylish lounge bar. Spinola Road (2318 0000, www.cavalierihotel.com)

Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay & Marina Hotel Corinthia Beach Resort These adjacent hotels share stunning sea views as well as several top-notch amenities alongside five- or fourstar accommodation, respectively. Make the most of the hotels’ many dining options, including the elegant Susurrus and Caviar & Bull, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, large sun decks and loungers, spa and fitness facilities, as well as a water sports and diving centre. St George’s Bay (2370 2370, www.corinthia.com) 122 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

The District Hotel Elegantly decorated and well-equipped rooms, and a prime location that is a five-minute walk from St George’s Bay, make The District Hotel a great choice for accommodation in the area. Free, high-speed Wi-Fi is available throughout the hotel, while the lounge area is a great spot to kick back and relax with a range of wines and cocktails to choose from. St Augustine Road (2741 1441, www.thedistricthotel.com.mt)

The George Urban Boutique Hotel Offering a variety of accommodation options, from penthouse and junior suites to self-catering studios and long lets, The George promises a relaxing stay and tranquil ambience for business and leisure trips. Guests have plenty of facilities to make use of, including a spa, rooftop bar and pool, lobby bar, and the superb ImPasta restaurant. Paceville Avenue (2011 1000, www.thegeorgemalta.com)

Hilton Malta The elegant Hilton Malta exudes Mediterranean charm, evident in all of its 413 stylishly decorated rooms and suites. Among its many amenities are four outdoor pools, a spa, tennis courts, fitness and business centres, and pet-friendly rooms. With no less than six dining options, including Thai eatery Blue Elephant, guests are truly in for a memorable treat. Portomaso (2138 3383, www.hilton.com)

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Hyatt Regency Malta

Hotel Juliani

Holiday Inn Express

Hotel Valentina

The Holiday Inn Express has stylishly designed guest rooms spread over eight floors, complete with blackout curtains and a pillow menu for optimal comfort. Distinguished by its colourful and angular balconies, the hotel also offers free Wi-Fi, a hot buffet breakfast and access to business centre facilities from the lobby lounge.

Its central location, surrounded by dining and entertainment establishments, makes Hotel Valentina a great choice of accommodation, while offering guests a homely stay in a contemporary setting. All 128 rooms and suites are well-equipped with handy amenities, while a rooftop pool and bar, lounge bar and library will complete your stay.

St George’s Bay (2379 5000, www.ihg.com/holidayinnexpress)

Dobbie Street (2138 2232, www.hotelvalentina.com)

Holm Boutique & Spa

Hugo’s Boutique Hotel & H Hotel

This unique, boutique hotel is driven by a desire to transport guests to another world with its fun, colourful and design-driven rooms, offering a playful, comfortable and memorable experience. Top spa services, a pink outdoor pool, a private indoor pool and a fitness centre are just some of the facilities and services that guests can avail of.

Housed over eight themed floors and set in the heart of the entertainment hub of Paceville, Hugo’s Boutique Hotel boasts 40 individually designed rooms and suites equipped with a room management system for optimal, personalised comfort. The nearby flagship H Hotel, comprising 160 rooms and suites, promises a decadent stay, complete with a luxurious infinity pool, secluded spa baths and a private champagne bar.

Fabri Lane (2131 3133, www.ikonikacollection.com/ holmboutique)

Hotel Juliani

St George’s Road, Paceville (2016 2420, www.hugoshotels.com). St Augustine Street (2016 2410, www.hugoshotels.com)

Hotel Juliani, a family-run boutique hotel, with its stylish décor, friendly staff, personalised service and central, seaside location, oozes charm and sophistication. It has 47 rooms, all of which are well-equipped with coffee and tea facilities, and high-speed Wi-Fi, while the Spa Royale and stunning rooftop pool and terrace ensure a relaxing and memorable stay.

Hyatt Regency Malta

25, St George’s Road (2138 8000, www.hoteljuliani.com)

Sqaq Lourdes Street (2366 1234, www.hyatt.com)

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This stunning hotel is a stone’s throw away from St George’s Bay. It has 151 guest rooms, including 12 suites, many of which enjoy panoramic town and sea views. The facilities are numerous, and include a rooftop pool, a 24/7 fitness centre, a spa and wellness centre, and tantalising dining options, among them the elegant Seed.

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SLE EP LUTZ VORDERWUELBECKE

The Westin Dragonara Resort

Inhawi Hostel The welcoming Inhawi hostel can accommodate over 100 guests in its large, 12-bed dorms, which have either a terrace or balcony, and four-person bedrooms. Guests can make use of the communal kitchen and enjoy the lovely outdoor space featuring a peaceful pool and garden area, whilst soaking up the gorgeous views of nearby Balluta Bay.

Radisson Blu Resort St Julian’s

Balluta Valley (2138 2554, www.inhawi.com)

InterContinental Malta The luxurious InterContinental Malta offers 481 elegantly furnished rooms and suites, with the exclusive suites located on the hotel’s upper floors providing complimentary access to the stunning Skybeach rooftop infinity pool on the 19th floor. Guests are spoilt for choice for dining options, and the facilities are numerous, including a casino, spa and wellness centre, and hair salon.

Number 11

St George’s Bay (2137 7600, www.malta.intercontinental.com)

Schreiber Street (2010 4488, www.number11.com)

Jules Suites

Radisson Blu Resort St Julian’s

Featuring 14 boutique studios with self-catering facilities across four floors, Jules Suites is a great choice for those seeking more intimate lodging. Smartly finished and offering housekeeping services, the suites also have a fully equipped kitchenette. Continental breakfast – which must be booked at least two days in advance – is served on the ground floor, while the back terrace is a great spot to put your feet up.

Located on the edge of the nightlife district of Paceville, this urban, adults-only hotel offers 91 modern rooms with all the comforts – including high-speed Wi-Fi, tea- and coffee-making facilities, and a laptop-sized safe. Enjoy a lazy afternoon by the rooftop pool and bar, free continental breakfast, as well as scrumptious south American cuisine at Hammett’s Mestizo.

The Radisson Blu Resort, located right on the water’s edge, boasts gorgeous views of the Med, visible from all of the 252 stylish rooms and suites, each having either a balcony or terrace. Choose from four dining options, among them The Bridge Bar for a refreshing cocktail on the terrace, and explore the two outdoor pools, two tennis courts, spa and diving school. St George’s Bay (2137 4895, www.radissonhotels.com)

St Andrew’s Road (9911 1707, www.julessuitesmalta.com)

Malta Marriott Hotel & Spa Towering over scenic Balluta Bay, the Malta Marriott Hotel & Spa combines effortless luxury with the relaxed charm of a Mediterranean resort. It offers a mix of premium rooms and luxury suites, several dining options, including a poolside eatery on the top floor, two bars, an excellent spa, a fitness centre, and bicycle rental facilities to explore your surroundings. 39, Main Street, Balluta Bay (2311 0000, www.marriott.com)

The Westin Dragonara Resort This idyllic hotel, which sits on a natural peninsula, offers magnificent views. Choose from a variety of bright and airy rooms and suites, or lodge at one of the 66 Luxury Bay Suites located in the private annex. On its sprawling grounds, you’ll find tranquil gardens, exquisite eateries, spacious sun decks, a casino and a selection of shops selling luxury goods. Dragonara Road (2138 1000, www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/ mlawi-the-westin-dragonara-resort-malta) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 125

The Three Cities & Around History, culture and nature blend together to offer a rich experience on this part of the island, which can tell you a lot of what there is to know about Malta’s past, starting from its earliest settlers.

he historical Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua (also referred to in Maltese as Birgu, Isla and Bormla respectively), make up the Three Cities, known collectively as Cottonera, in honour of Grand Master Cottoner who funded a line of fortifications to form the outer defences of the cities, which played an important role throughout Malta’s history. For a thorough tour of the cities, we suggest you start at Dock 1 in Cospicua, which you can get to on foot or by boat through a ferry service from Valletta (www. vallettaferryservice.com). Take a leisurely stroll along the landscaped walkway, itself steeped in history, which serves as a bridge between the cities’ promenades. If you cross the pedestrian bridge at the mouth of the dock, you’ll be setting foot in another city, Senglea, via the scenic Senglea Waterfront, while staying on the main walkway will lead you to the Vittoriosa Waterfront. This picturesque promenade is lined with eateries

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along the water’s edge and boasts stunning views of the marina opposite, a port of call for countless yachts and superyachts. Continue walking to the tip of the Vittoriosa waterfront to reach the imposing Fort St Angelo – a symbol of Malta’s fortitude throughout history – and to see its mighty bastions up close. It is open to the public and well worth a visit to understand the island’s diverse past. In the city of Vittoriosa, which was chosen by the Order of the Knights of St John as their first seat of power upon arriving in Malta in 1530, there is lots to explore on foot. Described as ‘the cradle of Maltese history’, countless palaces, churches and historical buildings still stand despite having suffered extensive damage during the Great Siege of 1565 and later World War II, including St Lawrence Church (designed by Malta’s most prominent Baroque architect, Lorenzo Gafà), the Inquisitor’s Palace, the Bishop’s Palace and the marvellous Collachio.

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If you’re keen to explore wild and rugged landscapes, head over to Wied iz-Zurrieq, arguably one of the most scenic spots in Malta. You must include a boat ride to the splendid Blue Grotto once you’re here, or hike down the valley of Wied Babu to enjoy fantastic countryside.

If you’re looking for a quirky find to take home, head over to the flea market, set up on Tuesdays and Sundays, where you’ll find all kinds of items for sale, ranging from odd antiques to some unexpected gems. From here, continue on to Senglea, the smallest of the Three Cities, which earned the title Civitas Invicta (Unconquered City) from Grand Master Jean de la Valette for being the only city that remained unconquered during the Great Siege of 1565. Be sure to include a visit to the serene Gardjola Gardens, which were planned in 1551 by Grand Master de la Sengle and deliver unobstructed views of Valletta. A stop at the Our Lady of Victories Basilica is also a must, followed by an easy amble along the bucolic Senglea Waterfront.

Further along the south-eastern coast is the fishing village of Marsaxlokk, which is the best place to observe fishermen at work on the colourful and traditional luzzu (fishing boat). This village is famous for its Sunday morning fish market as well as its promenade, lined with popular restaurants and bustling with activity.

A memorable way to explore the cities and Grand Harbour is via a tour in a traditional Maltese boat, known as dghajsa tal-pass (www. maltaboattours.com), which offers staggering views and a unique perspective of the land from out at sea.

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A stone’s throw away from the Three Cities is Kalkara, a quiet town with enough local charm to spare. It’s also home to Malta’s only interactive science centre, Esplora, a fun and educational attraction that’s ideal for family outings.

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Basilica

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Inquisitor’s Palace Hagar Qim Temple

HERITAGE MALTA

HERITAGE MALTA/STEVEN PSAILA

HERITAGE MALTA

VIEWINGMALTA.COM

Fort St Angelo

H E R I TA G E Collegiate Church of the Immaculate Conception

Hal Saflieni Hypogeum

Ghar Dalam

Hal Saflieni Hypogeum

65, Gendus Street, Cospicua (2182 8413, www.cospicuaparish.org.mt)

Located on the outskirts of the seaside town of Birzebbuga is Malta’s oldest prehistoric site. The large cave contains the earliest evidence of human settlement in Malta, as well as remains of Ice Age animals when Malta was physically connected to Europe. The site also features a Victorian-style exhibition and a garden containing local flora.

Also a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Hypogeum is a prehistoric, underground temple and burial site made up of interconnecting rock-cut chambers on three distinct levels. The earliest remains found here date back to around 4,000BC. Booking ahead is advised as ticket sales are restricted to preserve the site.

Fort St Angelo

Ghar Dalam Road, Birzebbuga (2165 7419, www.heritagemalta.org)

A jewel in the city of Cospicua, this towering parish church was completed in the 18th century, and by 1822, it was elevated to the status of collegiate church. Within the magnificent interior is the star oeuvre d’art – the titular statue of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary.

With its strategically dominant position over Grand Harbour, Fort St Angelo played a starring role throughout Malta’s history, particularly during the Great Siege of 1565, and later for the Royal Navy. Today, it is a must-see for its countless military architectural gems, panoramic views, as well as its excellent, immersive displays. Xatt l-Assedju l-Kbir 1565, Vittoriosa (2540 1800, www.heritagemalta.org)

Hagar Qim Temple This 7,000-year-old megalithic temple, a UNESCO World Heritage site, pre-dates Stonehenge in England and the Pyramids of Egypt. Built during Malta’s prehistoric phase, it features mammoth structures and boasts spectacular sea views beyond the islet of Filfla. Hagar Qim Street, Qrendi (2142 4231, www.heritagemalta.org)

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Burial Street, Paola (2180 5019, www.heritagemalta.org)

Inquisitor’s Palace Throughout its history, the Inquisitor’s Palace in Vittoriosa served as the official residence of many highranking individuals. Today, visitors can explore the tribunal, the torture chamber and the prisons, as well as displays on religious customs in Malta. Main Gate Street, Vittoriosa (2182 7006, www.heritagemalta.org)

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THE THREE CITIES & AROUND

Mnajdra Temples

HERITAGE MALTA

St Lawrence Church Museum

VIEWINGMALTA.COM/GREGORY IRON PHOTOGRAPHY

Malta At War Museum

Our Lady of Victories Basilica

St Lawrence Church Museum

The Malta at War Museum documents the islands’ endurance during World War II. Set within 18thcentury military barracks that were used as a wartime police station, it displays a vast collection of war memorabilia and artefacts. Audio guides and tours are available for visitors to explore the extensive airraid shelters.

Built in 1580 to commemorate Malta’s victory in the Great Siege, the church was elevated to the rank of basilica by Pope Benedict XV in 1921. One of the main attractions in Senglea’s parish church is a gilded, wooden statue of the Virgin Mary, decorated with precious stones. Pope Benedict XV Square, Senglea (2182 7203)

Next door to St Lawrence Church, within a 16th-century former chapel and nestled in the city’s narrow streets, is a museum displaying artefacts from Vittoriosa through the ages, such as relics from the Great Siege, including a battle sword and hat that belonged to Grand Master Jean de la Valette, as well as religious exhibits and paintings.

St Lawrence Church

91, St Lawrence Street, Vittoriosa (2182 7057)

Couvre Porte, Vittoriosa (2180 0992, www.maltaatwarmuseum.com)

Mnajdra Temples Another fascinating temple complex and UNESCO World Heritage site, Mnajdra Temples consist of three megalithic structures, the oldest dating back to 3,600-3,200BC. They also share a visitor centre with Hagar Qim Temple merely 500m away, and are among the most intact of the prehistoric temples in Malta. Hagar Qim Street, Qrendi (2142 4231, www.heritagemalta.org)

Located in one of the oldest parishes in Malta, St Lawrence Church served as the conventual church of the Order of St John between 1530 and 1571, before St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta was built. It is a stunning example of Roman-Baroque architecture, with a marvellous interior. 91, St Lawrence Street, Vittoriosa (2182 7057)

Tarxien Temples This complex of Neolithic temples, also a UNESCO World Heritage site, was built between 3,600 and 2,500BC. Look out for intricate stone carvings, spiral relief sculptures, ornate altars and stone spheres, that were likely used to move the megaliths. The Tarxien Temples app offers an interesting way to discover the site in greater depth. Neolithic Temples Street, Tarxien (2169 5578, www.heritagemalta.org)

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Our Lady of Victories Basilica

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THE THREE CITIES & AROUND

Esplora

VIEWINGMALTA.COM

CHARLES GRIXTI

The Collachio

Marsaxlokk Waterfront

AT T R A C T I O N S Blue Grotto This stunning complex of sea caves on the south coast of Malta is a must-see in the area. Named by a visiting British soldier for its clear blue waters, the main arch is magnificent, while the caves’ walls reflect the rich colours of the underwater flora. Hop onto a regular boat trip – it’s the best way to soak it all in. Wied iz-Zurrieq, L/O Qrendi (2164 0058, www.bluegrottomalta.com.mt)

The Collachio This maze of charming, narrow, winding streets became the exclusive area of the Knights of St John upon their arrival in Malta. The ancient area is brimming with Baroque buildings and monuments, including auberges, a former, state-of-the-art hospital and grand palaces.

DARREN AGIUS

Dock 1

Gardjola Gardens

Built before the arrival of the Knights of St John in Malta and developed further during the British period, Dock 1 – previously part of the Malta Drydocks – underwent extensive rehabilitation in recent years, turning it into a peaceful, picturesque walkway that connects the Three Cities with swathes of green spaces.

Perched on Senglea’s bastion, Gardjola Gardens, which were planned by Grand Master de la Sengle in the 16th century, offer sweeping views of Valletta, Grand Harbour and Fort St Angelo. The onsite guard tower, or gardjola, has various symbols sculpted on it, such as an eye and an ear, representing observance and guardianship over Malta.

Cospicua

Esplora This interactive science centre, suitable for visitors of all ages, aims to cultivate scientific curiosity and thinking through investigation and discovery via its numerous handson exhibits. Also located on its sprawling grounds is an impressive Planetarium with visualisations of our planet and the solar system, as well as several recreational areas. Dawret Fra Giovanni Bichi, Kalkara (2360 2301, www.esplora.org.mt)

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Senglea

Marsaxlokk Waterfront Experience the pace of everyday life in the fishing village of Marsaxlokk with a stroll along the picturesque promenade, where a daily, open-air market is set up. Watch traditional fishing boats bobbing in the bay, and dine at one of the many popular restaurants that line the street, known all over the island for serving excellent, fresh fish. Marsaxlokk

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THE THREE CITIES & AROUND VIEWINGMALTA.COM/MARIO GALEA

Birgu Blue

Ghar Lapsi Bay

Pretty Bay

St Peter’s Pool

Senglea Waterfront The slower-paced Senglea Waterfront – compared to the Vittoriosa Waterfront it faces – is a unique spot for a quiet stroll and leisurely meal or drink. Enjoyed by locals and visitors alike, the esplanade offers a variety of dining experiences, all with magnificent views of the surrounding historical buildings and yacht marina. Senglea

Vittoriosa Waterfront Once the naval base of the Order of the Knights of St John, the Vittoriosa Waterfront is a bustling spot in the Three Cities, filled with cafés, bars and restaurants. Impossible to miss are the stunning superyachts berthed in the marina, visible from wherever you sit, while the views from Fort St Angelo at the end of the waterfront are not to be missed. Vittoriosa

This large, man-made beach in Birzebbuga is one of few sandy beaches in the south of Malta. Several cafés, bars and restaurants surround the bay, as well as a football pitch, a playground and a promenade, making it a popular destination throughout the summer months for visitors of all ages.

VIEWINGMALTA.COM

Birzebbuga

LEISURE

The Royal Malta Golf Club & Marsa Sports Club

Birgu Blue Promising a one-of-a-kind shopping experience, this hidden gem is a boutique, workshop and atelier all rolled into one, offering an eclectic range of hand-stitched leather accessories, silk scarves, homeware, and limited-edition prints, as well as a curated selection of fine, gourmet products. 66, Hilda Tabone Street, Vittoriosa (www.birgublue.com)

Ghar Lapsi Bay This small bay draws large crowds particularly on summer weekends. The rocky shoreline forms a natural swimming pool that’s sheltered from the deep, open sea beyond, and the surrounding caves are great for exploring on quieter days. There are no beach facilities, so take all that you need with you. Siggiewi

Both private members clubs, the Royal Malta Golf Club and Marsa Sports Club are among the most prestigious sports clubs on the island. Malta’s only golf course offers 18 holes in lovely, landscaped surroundings, while the Marsa Sports Club is home to a large variety of sporting facilities, including 19 tennis courts and a cricket pitch. Off Aldo Moro Street, Marsa (2123 3851, www.royalmaltagolfclub.com/ www.marsasportsclub.com)

St Peter’s Pool Considered a must-visit in this area, St Peter’s Pool is a remote, natural swimming pool surrounded by smooth, flat rock and characterised by bright blue waters that are ideal for snorkelling. Located close to Marsaxlokk, at the tip of Delimara Point, it is tricky to get to, but well worth the effort. Marsaxlokk

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THE THREE CITIES & AROUND

E AT & D R I N K

Marea

Tal-Petut

FUSION

Marea Chef Ryan Vella curates a menu based on Mediterranean and Asian cuisines for Marea, a stylish, new eatery located in Kalkara with stunning views of Grand Harbour. With a particular focus on Japanese fare, visitors can choose from the varied à la carte and sushi bar menus, and tuck into exquisitely presented dishes with a twist, all made using fresh and seasonal produce. Marina Street, Kalkara Waterfront (7766 7737, www.marea.mt) MALTESE

Ta’ Rita Lapsi View Bar & Restaurant A stone’s throw away from Ghar Lapsi Bay, this popular eatery has held its own since the 1930s, widely known for its delicious rabbit dishes, traditionally prepared either fried in garlic or stewed. It is also sought after for pizza, pasta, barbecued items and snacks, which go down particularly well after a refreshing dip across the street. Call before heading here, as it is set for a total overhaul over the coming months. Lapsi Road, Siggiewi (7982 0098, www.taritalapsiview.co)

Ta’ Victor One of Marsaxlokk’s most sought-after restaurants, Ta’ Victor is synonymous with wholesome, traditional Maltese food. Most local delicacies, such as snails, rabbit, octopus, 132 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

fresh fish and lamb are served here, while the popular imqaret (date pastries) are a must to round off your meal. Madonna ta’ Pompei Square, Marsaxlokk (9947 4249)

Tal-Petut With a focus on authentic Maltese dishes, Tal-Petut, which is nestled in the backstreets of Vittoriosa, offers patrons quality food made with locally sourced ingredients and served within a cosy and quaint setting. The carefully crafted menu changes daily, according to what’s available, and groups can opt to dine in a private room. 20, Pacifiku Scicluna Street, Vittoriosa (7942 1169, www.talpetut.com) MEDITERRANEAN

Alka Restaurant Located on the outskirts of Qrendi, and close to the Blue Grotto, Alka offers some of the best sea views which stretch all the way to the tiny islet of Filfla and beyond. The Mediterranean menu changes daily according to the availability of seasonal produce, as well as fresh fish and seafood, which is what this eatery is especially known for. 1/3, Congreve Street, Qrendi (7742 4680)

Chukkas This newly refurbished and popular steakhouse, located within the Malta Polo Club – with a sister eatery in Mosta

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THE THREE CITIES & AROUND

E AT & D R I N K

EnChante

Hammett’s Macina Restaurant

– is well-known for serving first-class, meat-based dishes. A must for meat lovers, its speciality is Argentinean meat cooked on a log grill, but fish, pasta and a few plant-based options are also available. The Malta Polo Club, Marsa Sports Ground, Marsa (2122 8476, www.chukkasmarsa.com). Also Durumblat Street, Mosta

EnChante EnChante is a fish lovers’ paradise, with a reputation for serving exquisite fish and seafood dishes, though meat eaters are also well catered for. Popular staples, such as the tagliatelle with lobster, are complemented by an extensive specials board that changes regularly. Grab a table outside along the Senglea Waterfront for a truly relaxing meal with an extraordinary view. Juan B Azzopardi Street, Senglea (9924 9069, www.enchante-restaurant.com)

Hammett’s Macina Restaurant Sophisticated Mediterranean fare is the order of the day at Hammett’s Macina, whose location, within an impressive, restored, 16th-century fort, is hard to beat. The menu, which changes regularly, typically includes raw and cured options, as well as meat, fish and vegetable dishes – and delightful desserts.

La Cucina di Bettina Considered a top Italian restaurant in the south of the island, this humble eatery is as genuine as it gets. The home-made pasta is a must-try, while the fish and seafood dishes also come highly recommended. The friendly owner, Riccardo, ensures patrons enjoy a complete Italian experience, with great food, wine and hospitality. Congreve Street, Qrendi (9976 2516)

La Favorita La Favorita is a homely eatery that’s especially known for its fish and seafood dishes, so be sure to ask for their catch of the day if fresh fish is what you’re after. Pasta, meat, pizza, and a selection of traditional Maltese dishes are also available here, with something for everyone. Gardiel Street, Marsascala (2163 4113)

La Spigola Chef Gerardo whips up delightful dishes at La Spigola – a real treat for lovers of Italian cuisine. The seafood pasta dishes, including linguine with prawns, vongole and frutti di mare, are incredibly popular here, as is the fresh fish, cooked simply and exquisitely. St Joseph Street, Marsascala (2163 4288)

31st March Street, Senglea (2779 4171, www.hammettsmacina.com)

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THE THREE CITIES & AROUND

E AT & D R I N K

DARYL CAUCHI

Terrone

Del Borgo

Roots

Tartarun

This small, family-run restaurant on the Marsaxlokk seafront offers a concise but exciting menu filled with delectable Mediterranean dishes with a modern twist, including swordfish carpaccio, cuttlefish risotto and a generous seafood platter. Meat options are also available, and booking a table is advised.

Borrowing its name from a Maltese fishing net, Tartarun, which specialises in fresh fish, offers an elevated dining experience that’s beyond the ordinary. Fresh fish and seafood are sourced locally and daily, and served in beautifully presented plates within a rustic yet modern restaurant that also offers a menu of fine wines.

67, Xatt Is-Sajjieda, Marsaxlokk (2165 3205)

Xatt is-Sajjieda, Marsaxlokk (9917 7258, www.tartarun.com)

T’Anna Mari Chef patron Salvatore Piccione, who hails from Ragusa, brings Sicilian flare and decades of experience to every dish served at T’Anna Mari. Fish is central to the menu, though a selection of meat-based Mediterranean options is also available, all served within a homely and distinctly local setting. 28, Xatt is-Sajjieda, Marsaxlokk (2744 6211, www.tannamari.com)

Terrone Focusing on southern Italian and Maltese cuisines, Terrone bases its dishes on fresh, local and seasonal produce. The mainly fish-based menu, which changes daily, offers a scrumptious selection of skilfully prepared dishes, and if you’re feeling adventurous, a tasting menu is also available. Fort St Angelo, Vittoriosa Waterfront, Vittoriosa (2704 2656, www.terrone.com.mt)

Tal-Familja

BARS

Run by the well-established Preca family, Tal-Familja, which means ‘of the family’, involves its many foodie members in the running of this popular eatery, which is a firm favourite in the area. The menu is vast, the ambience is rustic, and the food is generous, with friendly service to boot.

Del Borgo

Gardiel Street, Marsascala (2163 2161, www.talfamiljarestaurant.com) 134 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Located within a centuries-old palazzo, Del Borgo is a cross between an eatery and a wine bar. The well-stocked cellar boasts an international selection of fine wines from all around the globe, which complements a variety of tasty tapas, platters, pasta dishes and main courses, all served within a cosy setting. St Dominic Street, Vittoriosa (9944 7954, www.delborgomalta.com)

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THE THREE CITIES & AROUND

SLEEP ELSA ALLEN

DANIEL CILIA

Cugó Gran Macina Grand Harbour

The Burrow Guest House This 400-year-old property in the village of Tarxien has been modernised and transformed into a charming B&B while retaining many of its original features. The family-run guest house, located close to the ancient Tarxien Temples, has seven quaint rooms, and offers daily continental breakfast, as well as free Wi-Fi.

The Burrow Guest House

JOE DEMANUELE

The Snop House

3, Alley 4, St Mary Street, Tarxien (9949 3360, www.theburrowmalta.net)

Cugó Gran Macina Grand Harbour This exquisite, five-star hotel is housed within Senglea’s iconic Macina Bastion. With 21 suites, unobstructed views of Grand Harbour and the surrounding marina, as well as the Hammett’s Macina Restaurant, guests are in for a treat that delivers a superb combination of history, a stunning harbour location, and modern luxury. 31st March Street, Senglea (2711 2711, www.cugogranmalta.com)

The Snop House Born of a French couple’s love for Malta, as well as a passion for art, this boutique B&B is located within an old, wonderfully renovated townhouse. Maintaining much of its original charm, The Snop House has six rooms across three floors, all brimming with character. The continental breakfast includes a selection of local delicacies. 23, Victory Street, Senglea (2702 9324, www.thesnophouse.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 135

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Sliema & Around There’s never a shortage of things to do and places to be in the bustling, seaside town of Sliema – home to a vast choice of coffee shops, eateries and fashion stores. It also offers many opportunities to watch the world go by from a bench on its long, scenic promenade.

he lively town of Sliema offers a potpourri of experiences in close proximity; from great eateries and watering holes to shopping opportunities and entertainment venues, attracting locals and visitors alike in droves all year round, the choice of outlets is endless. In summer, particularly, Sliema becomes even more attractive for those chasing the sun, longing for a dip in the sea or at a stylish beach club, or simply after a place to kick back with a drink in the shade.

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SLIEMA & AROUND

ISTOCK.COM/KARINA MOVSESYAN

Known as Tas-Sliema in Maltese – the word ironically derives from sliem, meaning peace – the busy town was once a summer resort for the affluent who would escape the island’s central regions for the cooler air this north-eastern stretch of coast affords. Throughout the 19th century, beautiful townhouses were erected all over town, with their colonial-era bay windows offering stunning sea views. Today, sadly, many of these grand homes have made way for sought-after apartment blocks that line the promenade, resulting in a modern aesthetic in tune with the changing times. However, pieces of the past remain, with some of these townhouses having been lovingly restored, becoming beautiful homes nestled in the narrow backstreets of the town. Getting to Sliema is easy: if you’re driving, the town is well-marked on road signs. It is also well-served by the island’s public transport system. However, one of the most attractive ways of getting here is via the short Valletta ferry ride that departs from the capital and that

offers a lovely view as you come in to dock at an area aptly referred to as The Ferries. Whichever mode of transport you choose, you’ll likely begin your exploration of Sliema from here, which leads to the main shopping hubs of Bisazza Street and Tower Road, home to myriad stores selling fashion wear, homeware, electronics and books. Just a short walk away, The Point, one of the island’s largest shopping malls, boasts a large open square, ideal for kids to run around in while the adults take a break. And, as the sun sets, a cocktail al fresco in one of the many laidback bars followed by a memorable dinner will prove a real treat. Over the years, Sliema’s attractive stretch of coast has drawn joggers, families with pushchairs and friends enjoying a stroll from as far as Manoel Island, near Gzira, right up to Balluta Bay in St Julian’s. Between these points, dotted along and behind the promenade, lie hundreds of cafés, shops, restaurants, bars, hotels and residences, tempting visitors to their doors.

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SLIEMA & AROUND

ISTOCK.COM/TRAVELING

The Ferries

The Backstreets of Sliema

H E R I TA G E The Backstreets of Sliema The narrow backstreets of Sliema, many of which lead to the promenade or The Ferries, have retained the charm of bygone times despite the town’s nowcosmopolitan nature. The many old houses that line the streets, elderly couples walking to church, and community stores frequented by locals offer a glimpse into the daily lives of its residents. Sliema

Parish Church of Jesus of Nazareth Built in 1895 by Marchese Ermolao Zimmermann Barbaro Di San Giorgio, this popular parish church was built on the site of a former small chapel, itself the brainchild of three brothers who were all priests and would celebrate mass for the locals during summer. In 1973, it was handed over to the Dominican Friars and established as one of the town’s four parishes. The Strand, Sliema

AT T R A C T I O N S The Ferries

Qui-Si-Sana Gardens

This aptly-named strip of picturesque promenade is where the Valletta to Sliema ferry docks. Lined with several kiosks, eateries and outlets, it also offers impressive views of Valletta from across the water, with the capital’s dome of the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Mount Carmel in full view – a perfect backdrop for your holiday snaps.

The landscaped Qui-Si-Sana Gardens at the beginning (or end, depending where you’re coming from) of the promenade, are a little, peaceful oasis along a busy road. Swings, slides and sloping strips of greenery make them a perfect haunt for families with young children.

Sliema

Sliema Promenade

Independence Gardens A popular patch of greenery along the Sliema promenade, the gardens provide a much-needed open space in this hectic town. It’s especially frequented by families with kids – the large playground offers several fun rides, free Wi-Fi is available, and the nearby kiosk will come in handy if your mouth gets dry in the sun. Tower Road, Sliema

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Qui-Si-Sana, Sliema

Making up a 2km span of scenic walkway, which stretches from Gzira to St Julian’s, the Sliema promenade is one of the island’s most popular. All along the way, you’ll encounter busy restaurants, cafés, bars and shops, as well as passers-by during their morning jog or afternoon stroll, and stunning sea views no matter the time of day or season. Sliema

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The Point Shopping Mall

Bortex

BERNARD POLIDANO

Christine X Art Gallery

JACOB SAMMUT PHOTOGRAPHY

The Plaza

LEISURE Bortex

Exiles

Established in 1964, Bortex is one of the island’s foremost specialists in formal men’s and women’s tailoring. A household name on the island, it stocks high-end clothing labels, such as Polo Ralph Lauren, and its own international house brand, Gagliardi. It also offers smart wear for hire and a made-to-measure service for men.

For decades, Exiles, with its smooth rocky shores and popular nearby snack bar, has been a magnet for beach-goers, especially young ones who enjoy kicking back with a beer as the sun goes down in summer. The sea is easily accessible, and the onsite dive shack welcomes anyone interested to explore underwater attractions in this part of the island.

Level 2, The Plaza, Bisazza Street, Sliema (2134 1466, www.bortex.com.mt). Also across Malta

Tower Road, Sliema

Christine X Art Gallery Christine X Art Gallery is home to the original works of local and foreign artists with a connection to Malta, including Elena Degenhardt, Micko, and filigree artist Kevin Attard, among others. Curated exhibitions are also held regularly at the gallery, where entrance is free of charge. 17, Tigné Street, Sliema (9984 4653, www.christinexart.com)

Fond Ghadir Sliema’s rocky coastline offers several swimming spots, such as Fond Ghadir. The rock-cut rectangular pools – or Roman baths, referred to in Maltese as il-banjijiet – attract swimmers of all ages and provide a serene swim, sheltered from open sea currents. Tower Road, Sliema

The Plaza was the first mall to open in Sliema, and has been a popular destination for shoppers heading into town for more than two decades. Among the many brands you’ll find today are Mothercare, The Body Shop, Promod and Quiksilver, while the food hall on level 0 offers all kinds of cuisines, from Hawaiian to Venezuelan to Indian street food. Bisazza Street, Sliema (2134 3832, www.plaza-shopping.com)

The Point Shopping Mall The Point, certainly every shopper’s paradise, plays host to the largest concentration of exclusive brands in Malta, all conveniently located under one roof. The over 60 outlets that spread throughout four expansive floors include much-loved brands of clothing, accessories, shoes, and electronics, such as Massimo Dutti, Mango, Ted Baker, Oysho and Tommy Hilfiger. There is also a variety of cafés, restaurants and snack bars for a pit stop during a shopping break. Tigné Point, Sliema (2247 0300, www.thepointmalta.com)

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Yana’s Jewellery

The White Sheep

Soap Café

The White Sheep

Soap Café

Sunset Records

Owner Charlene (Charly) Mercieca has been pioneering additive-free soaps and artisanal beauty products for years. At her shop, you’ll find a vast choice of aromatic lotions, balms, masks and scrubs for all skin types and ailments, made using ethically-sourced and sustainable raw materials.

At Sunset Records, novice and seasoned collectors alike will delight in the choice of vinyl available. Retailing new and used records across many genres – from soul to reggae, rock to disco, as well as the work of Maltese bands – you’ll have a hard time leaving empty-handed.

65, St Dominic Street, Sliema (2788 3675, www.soapcafemalta.com)

57, St Pius V Street, Sliema (2133 8835, www.sunsetrecordsmalta.com)

Solo Vinyl & Books

Teatru Salesjan

Music and books fill every corner at Solo, a shop dedicated entirely to vinyl culture, art, illustration, photography, subculture and underground genres, which are all on display. It’s the perfect place for a little something out of the ordinary, and brings people together by hosting book launches, workshops and gigs.

Founded in 1908, Sliema’s oldest existing theatre has, for more than a century, been the artistic heartbeat of this town. From comedy shows and Shakespearean dramas to original works, all productions are welcome at this ornate community theatre, whose busy programme of events always ensures there’s something on at the weekend.

92, Bordin Street, Msida (2133 8887, www.solovinylbooks.com)

45, Guze Howard Street, Sliema (7799 7000, www.tsmalta.com)

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With a mission to source and supply the best artisanal produce, siblings Tania and Sarah have created a hub for lovers of good food through The White Sheep. Charcuterie goods from all over Italy and Spain, and top-quality European cheeses may be found alongside an eclectic mix of pantry essentials, teas and coffees, as well as a selection of fine wines. 405, Rue d’Argens, Gzira (2131 5222, www.thewhitesheep.eu)

Yana’s Jewellery Inspired by a family history of jewellery-making, founder Yana Azzopardi has created a unique brand of beautiful, hand-made, statement and minimal jewellery pieces, using an array of stones, beads and materials. And, if you’re after something bespoke, you can get in touch with Yana herself to discuss precisely what you have in mind. Cathedral Street, Sliema (2134 1592, www.yanasjewellery.com). Also Misrah Il-Barrieri Street, Msida

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E AT & D R I N K

Busy Bee

Caffè Berry

AMERICAN

Novi Bar Founded by a New Yorker in Malta who wanted to introduce his version of a proper burger, Novi is the home of all-American cuisine, such as chicken wings, legendary tacos and, of course, the ubiquitous burger. If you’re looking for something healthier, smoothies, juices and salads are up for grabs too, as well as a good selection of beers, ciders and cocktails. 202, The Strand, Sliema (2780 2740) CAFÉS

Balance Bowl The brainchild of three food and well-being enthusiasts, Balance Bowl is possibly the only, exclusively vegan eatery in Malta. The gluten-free and plant-based menu includes a selection of tasty wraps, salads, burgers and ‘cheat meals’ that will leave you feeling clean and full of energy. 182, The Strand, Gzira (2732 0556)

Bella Sicilia At the cosy Bella Sicilia, you’ll have a hard time choosing just one sweet treat to accompany the delicious coffee. From cannoli to croissants to the pizzolo with Nutella, as well as home-made ice-cream and granitas, you’ll likely find yourself returning time and again for another sugary indulgence. 134, The Strand, Gzira (7901 0269)

Busy Bee With a legacy of almost 90 years in business, Busy Bee is one of the island’s best-loved confectioneries. The name is synonymous with top-quality sweets – try their cannoli or the cassata Siciliana – but you’ll also be able to choose 142 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

from a lovely selection of savoury pastries, breakfast options, snacks and salads at this stylish coffee spot. 38, The Strand, Sliema (2334 4000, www.busybee.com.mt). Also 30, Ta’ Xbiex Seafront, Msida; Mdina Road, Mriehel

Caffè Berry Delicious, home-made snacks and drinks are at the heart of the menu at this coffee lovers’ paradise. The house special, Berrycino – a unique coffee blend with a pistachio or hazelnut cream – is an absolute must-try, and you could get yourself a quality jam, tea blend or pack of chocolates to take back home. 68A, St Dominic Street, Sliema (9992 3183, www.caffeberry.com). Also Republic Street, Valletta

Dolci Peccati Situated on the promenade in between Sliema and St Julian’s, this Italian-run confectionery and café offers exceptional ice-cream, moreish Sicilian sweets, such as cassata Siciliana and cannoli, as well as an array of homemade Italian pastries and delicacies. Traditional cento panini and appetising hot items are also freshly prepared every day. 268, Tower Road, Sliema (2702 3202). Also St John’s Street, Valletta

Giorgio’s Cafeteria This trendy corner café – an institution among Sliema residents and shopping afficionados since 1987 – is open all day and offers a varied menu that includes a baker’s corner, Mediterranean specialities, as well as mouthwatering sweets and pastries to enjoy during a coffee break. A selection of in-house goodies is also available to take home. 17, Tigné Seafront, Sliema (2134 2456)

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Ayu

Hammett’s Gastro Bar

Kyoto This Japanese bakery serves traditional sweets, drinks and delicacies typical of the land of the rising sun. You’ll find melon pan – a sweet bun with a soft doughy interior and crispy surface – as well as sakura-themed drinks and speciality whiskies, alongside a selection of lovely, savoury items. 15, Ghar il-Lembi Street, Sliema (2708 5059)

Mint Based on the concept of a typical New Zealand-style café – with displays of mouth-watering food and a counter order service – this ever-popular eatery serves delicious, healthy savoury meals, with vegan options also available. The sweets too are hard to resist, especially the chocolate brownies and baked cheesecakes, all made from scratch in the Mint kitchen. 30/39, Luzio Junction, Stella Maris Street, Sliema (2133 7177, www.mintmalta.com)

SottoZero Sottozero – The Gelato Factory is among the most renowned ice-cream makers in Malta. It offers a dizzying selection of traditional and creative ice-cream flavours, as well as sugar-free gelato and sorbets, catering also for vegan visitors as well as those with different food intolerances. The Strand, Sliema (2701 9339, www.sottozerofactory.com). Also Spring Street, Bugibba; 95, St Lawrence Street, Vittoriosa

Zwiit Cravings Cafe Home to a selection of indulgent sweets, at Zwitt Cravings, you’re free to create your own dream dessert, or choose from the lip-smacking doughnuts menu. Select a base of

either churros, waffles or imqaret (a traditional date-filled pastry), and pick your preferred toppings and cream, and enjoy it on a bench in the sun across the road. 270, Tower Road, Sliema (9923 7115) FUSION

Ayu Calling itself the traveller’s kitchen, Ayu is the culmination of three brothers’ passion for food and travel. Open for brunch, lunch and dinner, wandering foodies will love the varied menu here, which offers popular meals from several cuisines, such as Venezuelan patacones, Spanish croquetas, pork ramen, and home-made ravioli with a Gozitan cheese filling. 209, The Strand, Gzira (2133 7141, www.ayu.mt)

Hammett’s Gastro Bar With culinary influences and ingredients from all over Asia, you can expect nothing less than a fantastic, social dining experience within ornate surroundings at Hammett’s Gastro Bar. The mouth-watering menu is built upon the shareable food concept, while the cocktail menu offers firm favourites alongside original mixes, such as Kyoto Garden, with jasmine tea-infused gin. 33, 34 Tigné Seafront, Sliema (2134 1116, www.hammettsgastrobar.com)

MedAsia Fusion Lounge From sushi to traditional dishes inspired by Japanese, Thai and Chinese cuisines, you’ll be spoilt for choice at this popular eatery which has a lively outdoor terrace and a comfortable indoor dining area. Hang around long enough for the sun to set, and watch MedAsia transform into a hip space, with a cocktail menu to compete with the very best. 90, The Strand, Sliema (2133 3222, www.medasiafusion.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 143

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E AT & D R I N K

Shakinah

Briju

TemptAsian At TemptAsian, the dishes are as tasty as they are varied, inspired by the many cuisines of south-east Asia, spanning from Vietnam to Singapore. Indulge your senses and enjoy a delectable selection of dishes on the elegant rooftop, which boasts panoramic views of Sliema and Valletta – another reason for TemptAsian’s immense popularity. AX The Palace, High Street, Sliema (2133 3444, temptasianmalta.com)

Ta’ Kris Owner and chef Chris brings his own style of home cooking to Ta’ Kris, a cosy and rustic eatery tucked away in the backstreets of Sliema’s popular shopping streets. Here, you’re in for an authentic Maltese dining experience with a menu bursting with traditional dishes, including Dad’s famous bragjoli (beef olives), thick beef stew and octopus stew. 80, Fawwara Lane, Sliema (2133 7367, www.takrisrestaurant.com)

INDIAN

Shakinah With many dining options in one space – from the elegant Kashmir Bar, to the stylish Goa Private Dining Suite, or the lovely outdoor garden – Shakinah delivers excellent Indian food in stunning surroundings. The extensive à la carte menu boasts firm favourites such as tandoori chicken and lamb rogan josh, as well as other exquisite dishes bursting with authentic flavours.

MEDITERRANEAN

Ali Baba

11, Ta’ Xbiex Seafront, Msida (2752 2322, www.shakinahmalta.com)

Experience an authentic, Middle Eastern dining experience at the island-famous Ali Baba, known for serving exceptional flavoured meats and sticky desserts of Lebanese and North African origin, as well as an impressive wine list. Hany Harb, who took over the restaurant from his father many years ago, personally encourages the Lebanese way of eating – through a mouth-watering mix of mezes to share.

MALTESE

9, Sir Frederick C. Ponsomby Street, Gzira (2134 0119, alibaba.hanyharb.com)

Briju Founded by chef Rafel Sammut, at Briju, the focus is on local ingredients and mouth-watering recipes – just like mama used to make them, but better. Using produce sourced from local farmers and suppliers, the team is passionate about sustainability and ethically made food, earning it a spot in the Michelin Guide for three consecutive years. Msida Road, Gzira (2134 1050)

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Azar Restaurant Chef patron Michele Zahra brings sophistication and flavour to the menu of new eatery, Azar. The draw, besides the sumptuous food served in a chic environment, is the chef’s love for cooking over open flames, imbuing his dishes with smoky essences. The menu changes regularly, so expect new and exciting dishes every time. Manwel Dimech Street, Sliema (9939 3876)

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E AT & D R I N K

The Chophouse

Emma’s Kitchen

Baba by Hany Harb Inspired by his own memories as a young boy of the wafts of falafel and roasting grills while playing in the streets of Lebanon, chef Hany Harb delivers outstanding Lebanese street food at Baba by Hany Harb – an offshoot of the popular Ali Baba. Think delicious salads, dipping dishes, burgers and arayess, and a selection of fresh juices to wash it all down. 140, Fleet Street, Gzira (2134 343, hanyharb.com)

The Black Egg A refined brunch served in a chic environment is at the heart of The Black Egg, whose name is based on its signature dish: a black poached egg, crushed avocado and chilli on crusted sourdough bread, served with pomegranate. Every choice on the menu is a real treat, best combined with a refreshing Bellini or a Bloody Mary. Ta’ Xbiex Seafront (9908 0878, www.theblackegg.com.mt)

The Chophouse With spectacular views of the Valletta skyline, The Chophouse boasts Malta’s largest all-charcoal grill and a menu meat lovers will drool over. From scottona to Angus to Wagyu, including aged options, The Chophouse offers the most tender beef cuts, grilled to perfection, alongside poultry and fresh fish dishes, and an impressive cellar with a wide selection of wines and whiskies. Tigné Point, Sliema (2060 3355, www.chophouse.com.mt)

Emma’s Kitchen The brainchild of foodie Emma Demarco, Emma’s Kitchen is a hip café and restaurant with a lovely selection of breakfast, brunch (served all day) and lunch options inspired by various cuisines. The menu, which changes 146 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

seasonally, includes hearty salads, tasty bowls and freshly baked sweets. Vegan, gluten- and dairy-free menus are also available. 1, Naxxar Road, San Gwann (2099 1184, www.emmaskitchen.com.mt)

Fernandõ Gastrotheque Impeccably presented dishes and carefully curated flavours are the order of the day at Fernandõ, where the devil is truly in the detail. On the menu, you’ll find charred scallops with Jerusalem artichoke, aged carnaroli rice with sheep milk and dried sheep milk cheese, and juicy beef sirloin and short rib, complemented by an extensive wine list. 6, Tigné Street, Sliema (7922 2023, www.fernando.com.mt)

Il-Gabbana No matter where you happen to be on the Sliema promenade, you’re likely to stop at this much-loved café, which has been an institution since it opened in 1956. The young and old alike hang out for a morning coffee, casual lunch, afternoon drinks, or laidback dinner, catching up with family or friends in the sun or after dark, and watching the world go by. Tower Road, Sliema (2701 1527, www.ilgabbana.com)

Kebab Ji This casual, diner-style eatery is ideal for a fresh, onthe-go meal. Kebab Ji, a Lebanese eatery overlooking the Sliema seafront, serves up a spate of Middle Eastern specialities and vegetarian dishes, ranging from succulent meats and colourful salads, to flavourful falafel and delicious, traditional sweets. 132A, Tower Road, Sliema (2782 7562)

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OSKAR HJELM

E AT & D R I N K

Maggie’s

La Cuccagna This family-run eatery has been serving genuine, delightful food since 1992, garnering a loyal following, especially for the delicious pizza, which ranks up there among the best locally. The Mediterranean menu also features an array of pasta, grilled meat, fresh fish dishes and specials, accompanied by warm hospitality and service with a smile. 47, Amery Street, Sliema (2134 6703, www.cuccagnamalta.com)

The Lucky Goose A social dining experience is at the heart of The Lucky Goose, whose concept is based on sharing great food (and drinks), and it’s got a mouth-watering menu to prove it. Choose from the tapas menu, casual bites menu – which includes Wagyu sliders and pork belly bites – delicious pasta dishes, or the selection of steaks in the dry ager, which could also be prepared to share. 63, Ta’ Xbiex Seafront, Ta’ Xbiex (9974 3687)

Maggie’s Its idyllic corner location coupled with a delectable menu make Maggie’s a perfect spot for a meal with a view in a chic yet casual environment. The menu is a mix of classic and modern Mediterranean cuisines, infused with Latin American influences, featuring dishes like scallops ceviche and paccheri with sweet chorizo, while beautiful artworks by Maltese artist Alexia Coppini adorn its cosy interior. 59, Sir Adrian Dingli Street, Sliema (7927 2770, maggies.mt)

Pasta & Co Fresh, artisanal pasta takes centre stage at Pasta & Co, an Italian eatery established in 2017, with a focus on creating the best dishes of its kind this side of the island. The menu is bursting with classic options, such as rigatoni cacio e

The Seafood Market Grill by Adam

pepe, penne carbonara and spaghetti vongole, as well as innovative creations, such as duck-filled ravioli with a citrus sauce. Ta’ Xbiex Seafront (2707 2245, www.pasta.co.it)

The Seafood Market Grill by Adam Beginning with Adam’s Fish Shop in Mosta – which, for years, was the go-to fishmonger for gourmet fish dishes prepared by the affable owner, Adam, and his team, then cooked at home – Adam subsequently opened a oneof-a-kind seafood market grill, presenting the freshest fish and seafood dishes in a casual eatery. Whether raw, grilled, sautéed or fried, you’ll be coming back for more, and more. Msida Road, Gzira (9955 5531, www.theseafoodmarket.com.mt)

Sea Salt At this tiny, take-away joint with a big personality, scrumptious fish and seafood are the order of the day. The online menu includes cod and chips, calamari, salmon and pesto pasta, as well as an intriguing octopus burger – featuring crispy octopus and chorizo on tomato relish, with an octopus reduction dressing in a brioche bun. 43, Rudolph Street, Sliema (2760 3343, www.seasaltmalta.com)

Sotto La Prosciutteria A new member of the ‘Gruppo Zero Sei’ – which has brought Roman cuisine to Malta to much acclaim – Sotto La Prosciutteria is a must-visit for authentic, delicious Italian food. The star dish is the pinsa – an oval-shaped pizza with its own unique blend of flour to obtain a crunchy outside and soft inside, topped with mouth-watering ingredients. 188, The Strand, Gzira (2133 6446, www.zeroseimalta.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 147

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E AT & D R I N K

Trattoria Cardini

Storeroom

Ta’ Xbiex Waterpolo Club

BARS

The Brew

This stylish eatery is consistently bustling with activity as patrons pop in for a fresh lunch or scrumptious dinner (generally with a reservation) in a beautiful setting. The menu combines local and Sicilian influences, with a selection of starters, salads, burgers, pastas, pizzas, meat and fish dishes, enjoyed with striking views of Grand Harbour and Valletta.

As one of Malta’s top craft brewers, you’ll find a great choice of in-house brewed beers at The Brew, which also serves a menu of delicious dishes that pair fantastically well with their drinks, such as the dry-aged beef burgers and signature, one-metre ribs cooked in a barbecue or honey mustard sauce.

Ta’ Xbiex Seafront (2733 0144, www.taxbiexwaterpoloclub.com)

74, The Strand, Sliema (2703 0398, www.thebrewmalta.com)

Tiffany’s Bistro At Tiffany’s Bistro, you can expect to satisfy your cravings thanks to the delightful menu of classic dishes with a twist, with choices ideal for breakfast, brunch, lunch, or dinner. From poké bowls and seafood pasta to refreshing salads and juicy burgers, it’s a perfect pit stop for a coffee or a bite to eat before getting back to shopping.

Good Times This casual hangout is popular in the area for its extensive selection of beers and other drinks, and offers a choice of American, Spanish as well as Mexican food options, best enjoyed with a cold cocktail or beer, especially during the sweltering summer months. Gzira Road, Gzira (7739 5115)

18A, Tigné Seafront, Sliema (9958 6280, www.tiffanysbistro.com)

Trattoria Cardini At this homely trattoria located on the bustling seafront, honest Mediterranean food is the order of the day. Every dish is made using locally sourced, fresh ingredients, and the varied menu comprises pasta, pizza, salads and hearty burgers, as well as fish and fine cuts of meat. Guests are also entitled to free parking at the nearby multi-storey car park. 132A, Tower Road, Sliema (2133 2324, www.cardini.com.mt)

Vecchia Napoli One of several outlets across the island, Vecchia Napoli is a firm favourite with families and anyone after a fast and good meal. It is particularly sought-after for its tasty pizzas, baked in a wood-burning oven and created by pizzaioli who have been trained in Italy, featuring top-quality ingredients imported from Naples. 255, Tower Road, Sliema (2134 3434, www.vecchianapoli.com). Also across Malta 148 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Paradise Exiles There are few better ways to spend chilled summer evenings than at Paradise Exiles – a popular beach bar with the most laidback vibe, aided by live bands or great music pumping from its system – with a refreshing drink in hand while soaking up views of the Med. Tower Road, Sliema

Storeroom Located along the Ta’ Xbiex seafront, this live music venue and bar is a music lover’s paradise. It hosts regular performances all year round, promoting top local artists in a dedicated setting, and has a well-stocked bar and awesome sea views to boot. Ta’ Xbiex Seafront, Ta’ Xbiex (7927 1869)

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SLEEP

1926 Hotel & Spa

1926 Hotel & Spa Modern luxury and sustainability are at the heart of the lovely 1926 Hotel & Spa. It offers a range of room options, including a standard room, junior suite, family room and superior suite, and its very own beach club a short walk away from the hotel. Guests are spoilt for dining options, and restorative spa treatments are also available.

DARREN AGIUS

AX The Victoria Hotel

Two Pillows Boutique Hostel

Thornton Street, Sliema (2359 3000, www.hotel1926.com.mt)

AX The Palace Malta This fashionable, five-star hotel boasts a central location, spacious rooms – including six suites known as The AX Designer Suite Collection, each individually designed around an innovative theme – and several in-house bars and restaurants (including the exquisite TemptAsian). The hotel also features an indulgent spa and a stunning, rooftop infinity pool. High Street, Sliema (2133 3444, www.thepalacemalta.com)

AX The Victoria Hotel With its Victorian-themed décor and sophisticated accommodation options, this four-star hotel, located in a quieter area of Sliema, is a great launch pad for your exploration of the Maltese islands. It affords guests fully equipped rooms, good-quality restaurants, a gym, as well as special spa and wellness packages. Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Sliema (2133 4711, www.victoriahotel.com)

Land’s End Boutique Hotel The sophisticated Land’s End offers an authentic, boutique experience. With its handful of elegantly styled rooms, guests are treated to comfortable interiors and stunning views of Valletta’s impressive bastions. Within its walls is Hammett’s Monastik, a continental dining experience (open all day) that offers a modern take on traditional European dishes. 42, Tigné Seafront, Sliema (2600 8000, www.landsendmalta.com)

TONIO LOMBARDI

Two Pillows Boutique Hostel The boutique Two Pillows is a step above the traditional hostel experience. Its lodging options, equipped with air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi, range from comfortable suites and studio apartments to shared dorm rooms. The common areas, where guests can socialise, also attract the young and young at heart to this well-converted townhouse. 49, St Pius V Street, Sliema (2131 7070, www.twopillowsmalta.com)

Urban Valley Resort & Spa The serene setting is a major draw of this charming resort, which boasts beautiful rooms and a range of facilities within which to unwind, including indoor and outdoor pools, tennis courts, a kids’ activity area, a sauna and a gym. And, during the warmer months you can also enjoy a walk within the nearby Wied Ghollieqa Nature Reserve. Wied Ghollieqa Street, Kappara (2138 5926, www.urbanvalleyresort.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 149

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Mdina, Rabat & Around T

he splendid walled city of Mdina, which was known as Melita during Roman times, served as Malta’s capital for centuries, and was the site of the Roman governor’s palace. At the start of the islands’ Arab rule around 870AD, Mdina was given the name it goes by today, derived from the Arabic word medina, which means town or city. The thick, protective walls that shield the city date back to this period.

FA RR UG

EE T

R LI ST

IA ST RE

O N EL

HO BB EJZ AS TRE ET

In 1693, a strong earthquake that rocked Sicily rippled through the islands, causing extensive damage to Mdina and many of its majestic buildings, including the cathedral. The cathedral’s remains were dismantled and, in its stead, a new cathedral was built in the Baroque style, designed by acclaimed Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafà. This laid the foundations for the architectural style of the rest of the rebuilt city.

G .A .B

Following a short siege in 1091, Mdina fell to Roger I of Sicily. Over 400 years later, in 1530, Holy Roman Emperor Charles V granted the Maltese islands to the Knights of the Order of St John, who lost Rhodes to the Ottomans in 1522. They settled in Vittoriosa, one of the Three Cities in Malta’s south-eastern region, making it their administrative centre. Many of Mdina’s residents moved there as a result, and later to Valletta, which became the new capital city.

TO NI

History seeps through the stones of the stunning Silent City of Mdina, which is as impressive as it is rich, replete with architectural gems, picturesque streets and squares, and surrounded by fascinating towns and villages.

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For a picturesque excursion of the countryside that surrounds Mdina and Rabat, as well as neighbouring Imtarfa, consider the trackless train tour which departs from a terminus next to the Domvs Romana. Further towards the coast, the craggy Dingli Cliffs and the wooded area of Buskett Gardens are also worth a visit.

During the reign of Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena, between 1723 and 1728, Mdina continued to flourish. Damaged fortifications were remodelled and repaired, and new, grand buildings and palaces were built, including the Vilhena Palace, today home to the Museum of Natural History, and the Banca Giuratale, or Municipal Palace. During your tour of the city, be sure to walk through the lovely Mesquita Square, with a unique well at its centre, which was used as a shooting location for the popular fantasy drama television series ‘Game of Thrones’.

For a more urban experience, travel towards the centre of the island, to Mosta, which is home to the third largest dome in Europe atop its imposing church. The nearby villages of Naxxar, Attard, Lija and Balzan, while largely residential, are packed with their own charms, including the prettiest narrow streets and alleys, beautiful old buildings and superb eateries.

Just outside Mdina, stroll through the serene Howard Gardens, named after Malta’s first Prime Minister, Joseph Howard, which links the city to its neighbour, the historic town of Rabat, with plentiful attractions of its own, including catacomb sites, impressive churches and squares, several highquality eateries and shops, as well as the ancient Domvs Romana.

PLACES OF INTEREST Bastion Square

8 Domvs Romana

Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum

9 Church of Ta’ Giezu

National Museum of Natural History

Mdina Dungeons Museum

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MDINA CATHEDRAL MUSEUM

Domvs Romana

Casa Bernard Mdina Cathedral Museum

H E R I TA G E Carmelite Priory Museum

Church of St Dominic & Priory

The Carmelite Church and Priory Museum is the island’s only monastery that is open to visitors. A resident friar offers tours of the 17thcentury building and its grounds, where a frescoed refectory, a peaceful courtyard and priceless artworks, including Mattia Preti’s ‘St Cecilia’ within the Chapter Hall, are among the highlights.

The Church of St Dominic in Rabat dates back to the 16th century and is home to countless treasures, among them a beautiful marble statue of the Virgin Mary. The impressive priory, which was used as a filming location for HBO drama ‘Game of Thrones’, has a large courtyard with a charming garden and fountains, and is home to a newly launched cultural and religious tourism experience that merges audio-visual technology with a physical display of priceless, ecclesiastical artefacts.

Villegaignon Street, Mdina (2145 4524, www.carmelitepriory.org)

Casa Bernard This mid-16th century palazzo is the private home of Josette and Georges Magri, who lovingly restored the building and filled it with their impressive collection of furniture, paintings and objets d’art, turning it into a living museum. The couple give regular guided tours of the house. 46, St Paul Street, Rabat (9984 4343)

St Dominic Square, Rabat (2145 4592)

Church of Ta’ Giezu The Church of the Nativity of Our Lady, known locally as Ta’ Giezu, is one of the oldest churches in Malta. Built in 1500, it has a plain façade but a lavish interior, which was expertly restored recently after suffering significant damage in 2017 when parts of its roof collapsed. St Joseph Street, Rabat (2145 4594)

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Domvs Romana This ancient townhouse, which offers a glimpse into the daily life of a wealthy Roman aristocrat, features intricate mosaic floors and several precious Roman remains which have survived for centuries, including a set of marble statues portraying Emperor Claudius and his family. Museum Esplanade, Rabat (2145 4125, www.heritagemalta.org)

Mdina Cathedral Museum Housed within a marvellous Baroque building, this former seminary displays a fine collection of treasures salvaged from the medieval Sicolo-Norman cathedral destroyed by an earthquake in 1693, including an extensive collection of coins and impressive woodcuts by Albrecht Dürer. It is also the first museum in Malta with specialised services for visitors with autism. Archbishop Square, Mdina (2145 4697, www.metropolitanchapter.com)

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The Metropolitan Cathedral of St Paul Towering over Mdina’s main square is this magnificent Baroque cathedral, designed by celebrated Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafà. Among its many internal riches are an apse mural of ‘The Shipwreck of St Paul’, painted by Mattia Preti’s bottega assistants, as well as a baptismal font dating back to 1495. St Paul Square, Mdina (2145 6620, www.metropolitanchapter.com)

Mosta Church With the third-largest unsupported dome in Europe, the imposing church dominates Mosta’s main square. Inside, look out for paintings by renowned Maltese artist Giuseppe Calì, and the display of a bomb replica, captioned ‘Il-Miraklu Tal-Bomba (The Miracle of The Bomb), April 9, 1942’, to mark the day during World War II when a bomb pierced the dome during mass, but did not explode. Rotunda Square, Mosta (2143 3826, www.mostachurch.com)

National Museum of Natural History The National Museum of Natural History is housed in the 18th-century Vilhena Palace at the entrance of Mdina. The island’s natural biodiversity and ecosystems are showcased through a collection of over one million specimens, dioramas of local habitats, and displays covering topics ranging from palaeontology to human evolution. Vilhena Palace, St Publius Square, Mdina (2145 5951, www.heritagemalta.org)

National Museum of Natural History

Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum The former home of scholar and philanthropist Captain Olof Frederick Gollcher, Palazzo Falson is Mdina’s second-oldest building, which, since 2001, has been restored and is open to the public, displaying an exceptional array of paintings, manuscripts, jewellery and other artefacts. Villegaignon Street, Mdina (2145 4512, www.palazzofalson.com)

Palazzo Parisio & Gardens The stunning private residence of Palazzo Parisio and its Baroque gardens were built by Grand Master Manuel de Vilhena in the 1730s and later embellished by Marquis Giuseppe Scicluna. The opulent interiors feature gilded salons and frescoed walls, unique artefacts, and priceless works of art. Elegant afternoon tea is served against the backdrop of the bucolic gardens. 29, Victory Square, Naxxar (2141 2461, www.palazzoparisio.com)

St Agatha’s Historical Complex Incorporating a crypt, catacombs and a museum, this complex houses well-preserved underground cemeteries dating back to the early days of Christianity in Malta that can be viewed with the help of a guide. Visit the crypt to see an altar carved out of rock and some of the oldest frescoes on the islands.

St Paul’s Catacombs St Paul’s Catacombs, which served as a burial ground during late Punic and Byzantine times, are a complex of underground cemeteries. They are considered to be the earliest and largest archaeological evidence of Christianity in Malta, and were later also used for pagan, Jewish and Christian burials until the 8th century. St Agatha Street, Rabat (2145 4562, www.heritagemalta.org)

Villa Bologna With its Baroque and Neoclassical features, the charming, 18th-century Villa Bologna is lovely for a roam around. Check out the centuries-old citrus orchard, ornate fountains and sprawling lawns, and visit the gift shop for a collection of locally made souvenirs, as well as the popular, adjacent bistro. 30, St Anthony Street, Attard (9953 7925, www.villabologna.com)

Wignacourt Museum Complex Comprising St Paul’s Grotto, catacombs, World War II shelters, and the Wignacourt Museum, there’s lots to explore here. The museum features an impressive collection of paintings by European and Maltese artists, namely Mattia Preti, Antoine Favray, and Francesco Zahra, while the café located in the garden is a great spot for a snack. Parish Square, College Street, Rabat (2749 4905, www.wignacourtmuseum.com)

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Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum

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San Anton Gardens

Buskett Gardens

AT T R A C T I O N S Bastion Square This charming square, which is where the palace-lined Villegaignon Street comes to an end, encapsulates the spirit of the Silent City. Situated just behind the ramparts of the fortifications, the square boasts beautiful Baroque buildings on one side and breathtaking panoramic views of Malta on the other. Mdina

Buskett Gardens Buskett Gardens, which were planted by the Knights of St John as a hunting reserve and are one of few woodland areas in Malta, are popular for country walks and lazy picnics. At the edge of the gardens, look out for the 16th-century Verdala Palace, which is now the President of Malta’s summer residence.

Dingli Cliffs

The Limestone Heritage, Park & Gardens This is a great attraction to understand the islands’ long history with limestone. Located in the village of Siggiewi, it features an animal park that’s ideal for younger visitors and stone sculpting demonstrations. Group events, such as archery and olive oil tasting, may also be organised. Mons M Azzopardi Street, Siggiewi (2146 4931, www.limestoneheritage.com)

Mdina Dungeons Museum

At 253m above sea level, Dingli Cliffs mark the highest point of the Maltese islands. The view from here is among the best you’ll see from any vantage point in Malta – from terraced fields to the vast open sea and even the tiny islet of Filfla, it’s a sight for sore eyes.

The former prison beneath Vilhena Palace at the entrance of Mdina houses this gruesome attraction, which portrays a dark side of Maltese history. Over 75, full-size figures in period clothing, graphic displays, and recreations of torture methods shed light on mysterious and dramatic events that took place during different periods in Malta’s chequered history.

Dingli

St Publius Square, Mdina (2145 0267)

Siggiewi

Dingli Cliffs

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The Mdina Experience From the shipwreck of St Paul on the Maltese coast in 60AD to the 1693 earthquake that almost destroyed the city, relive historical milestones that are relevant to Mdina’s impressive history, with its many triumphs and tragedies, through this high-quality, 30-minute, large-screen show. Multi-language equipment is also available. 7, Mesquita Square (2145 4322)

San Anton Gardens San Anton Gardens offer a tranquil retreat in a busy part of the island. The lush space, which surrounds San Anton Palace – the residence of the President of Malta – is open to the public and makes for a picturesque stroll, with some animal spotting opportunities to boot. San Anton Palace, Attard (2148 4662)

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LUKE DYSON

Camilleriparismode

Uno Malta

LEISURE Camilleriparismode

Sef Farrugia

For more than a century, this family business has offered a wide range of fine and upscale fabrics, furniture, and decorative objects for the home. The flagship store in Rabat, and its smaller sister outlet in Sliema, are worth a visit for something a little beyond the ordinary to take home.

Maltese designer Sef Farrugia’s striking collection of fashion accessories, homeware and soft furnishings is artfully displayed at her cosy shop in Rabat. You’ll find silk scarves, bowties, ties, hair bands and cushions in her distinctive, selfdesigned prints, using a range of exquisite fabrics.

54, 56 St Catherine Street, Rabat (2010 2030, www.camilleriparismode. com). Also Annunciation Square, Sliema

27, Republic Street, Rabat (7970 9812)

Gianpula Village This ever-popular clubbing complex, located in the midst of Rabat’s countryside, houses 11 venues in one space, including outdoor clubs, a festival area and a pool club. With a busy calendar all year round, check out the website for regular parties, events and visits from international artists. Gianpula Road, L/O Rabat (2145 0238, www.gianpulavillage.com)

Stephanie Borg Studio Boutique

Stephanie Borg Studio Boutique Stephanie Borg, a self-taught artist and pattern designer, has garnered a following for her vibrant, colourful designs inspired by Maltese culture and architecture. From prints and mugs to coasters, silk scarves and home décor, you’re unlikely to leave empty-handed from her chock-full studio shop. 33, St Catherine Street, Rabat (9916 1469, www.stephanieborg.com)

Uno Malta This open-air clubbing venue has been a crowd-puller for years. It hosts local as well as top international DJs regularly, spinning everything from house music to commercial house and R&B. Check out the Facebook page to see what’s on. Ta’ Qali Crafts Village (2141 5241, www.unomalta.com)

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Chalk

Java

CAFÉS

Café Santa Lucia This renowned confectionery, with two outlets in Rabat and Attard, has been serving first-rate pastries, sweets and cakes for almost 50 years. The discreet café nestled in Rabat’s core is the perfect place for a quick snack, a good coffee, or a refreshing drink in a laidback atmosphere. A sweet treat from here is a must. 29, Main Street, Rabat (2145 1852, www.cafesantalucia.com). Also Old Railway Track, Attard

Chalk The cute and quaint Chalk café and bar makes for an idyllic resting spot in the heart of this old town. Choose from a selection of snacks, salads, nibbles and delicious desserts, accompanied by good-quality coffee or, if you’re in the mood, a bottle of wine or craft beer. 36, St Paul Street, Rabat (9945 6240)

Crystal Palace This age-old institution, known among locals as Is-Serkin, continues to uphold its reputation for some of the best pastizzi on the island – the delicious puff pastry snack with a ricotta, pea or anchovy filling – which go exceptionally well with te fit-tazza, their much-loved tea served in a glass. St Paul Street, Rabat (2145 3323)

Fontanella Tea Garden Mdina is synonymous with history, stunning architecture, as well as a visit to Fontanella. For years, this tea garden has attracted locals and visitors for its cakes – particularly the rich chocolate cake – and its unparalleled location. It also serves a selection of snacks and drinks, while the adjoining wine bar, Vinum, is ideal for an evening out. 1, Bastion Square, Mdina (2145 4264, www.fontanellateagarden.com.mt) 156 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Il-Baxa Café & Snack Bar This small, family-run eatery prides itself on offering homely food and warm hospitality. Its ever-changing menu includes a range of hearty dishes, including pasta, meat and fish options, as well as snacks and traditional Maltese rabbit. 41, Main Street, Rabat (7755 1552)

Java Java has garnered a following for its tasty, healthy and sustainable approach to the best meal of the day breakfast (or brunch). Think smoothie bowls, bagels, and poke bowls, as well as shakes, juices and, of course, coffee. You may also order and collect a grazing box packed with goodness to enjoy in company. 1, Victory Square, Naxxar (2143 7072, www.javamalta.com)

Marelli Cafe Known for its indulgent breakfast, brunch and lunch options, anything you order from this small, corner café is a real treat. From Amatriciana eggs to linguine carbonara to any speciality available on the day, none of the dishes at Marelli disappoint. Leaving space for dessert is also recommended. Ta’ L-Indjana Street, Fleur-de-Lys, Birkirkara (2766 6660)

Ta’ Doni With its idyllic location and mouth-watering menu of snacks, traditional Maltese food, as well as seasonal treats, Ta’ Doni is a great place for a coffee, a bite or even a Spritz in the sun accompanied by a scrumptious platter. Not too far, its sister restaurant, Il-Bitha ta’ Doni, offers a tempting menu of Mediterranean dishes in a similarly quaint location. 73, St Paul Street, Rabat (2761 5270)

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De Mondion Restaurant

Barbajean

FRENCH

De Mondion Restaurant This one-Michelin star restaurant has consistently maintained its position as one of the top eateries in Malta. The elegant setting, the incredible views from the open terrace on the Mdina bastions, the excellent service and, most notably, the outstanding food and extensive wine list, make it a dining experience to remember. The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux, Council Square, Mdina (2145 0560, www.demondion.com)

The Lord Nelson With its intimate setting and mouth-watering menu, The Lord Nelson offers a lovely, fine-dining experience, combining a cosy atmosphere within a centuries-old building, great service and perfectly presented dishes, rooted in the fundamentals of French cuisine but with a refreshing, modern twist. 280, Main Street, Mosta (2143 2590, www.thelordnelsonrestaurant.com) MALTESE

Diar il-Bniet Based on the field-to-fork concept, Diar il-Bniet takes pride in producing authentic local dishes using its own, homegrown produce and ingredients from its nearby fields. The largely Maltese menu changes seasonally, and patrons can pop into the adjacent shop for a selection of sweets, jams, wines, oils and delicatessen items to savour at home. Main Street, Dingli (2762 0727, www.diarilbniet.com)

Ta’ Marija With a loyal following since 1964, Ta’ Marija is one of Malta’s best-known local cuisine restaurants. The familyrun eatery offers creative starters and street food options, and generous meat and fish dishes, including the stewed 158 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

rabbit delicacy, and hosts lively folklore-themed dinner shows throughout the week. Constitution Street, Mosta (2143 4444, www.tamarija.com) MEDITERRANEAN

Bacchus Housed within transformed medieval chambers built in the 17th century, Bacchus bridges the past with the present through a delicious Mediterranean menu that is bursting with flavour. If the weather permits, reserve a table outdoors in the landscaped garden, which overlooks the impressive Mdina bastion walls. 1, Inguanez Street, Mdina (2145 4981, www.bacchus.com.mt)

Bahia Within its new location on the first floor of the Corinthia Palace in Attard, Bahia offers an exceptional experience for all the senses, which earned it one Michelin star. Diners can choose from the mouth-watering à la carte and degustation menus, as well as dedicated vegan menus, and savour the precision of each dish within an elegant and sophisticated setting. Corinthia Palace, De Paule Avenue, Balzan (9999 1270, www.bahia.com.mt)

Barbajean This stylish eatery in the heart of Dingli is led by talented chef patron, Jean Pierre Dingli, who brings heaps of creativity to its carefully crafted menu. Fresh and seasonal ingredients are the protagonists of the tantalising Mediterranean dishes, to be enjoyed within vibrant, art deco-inspired surroundings. 6, Frenc Abela Square c/w Parish Street, Dingli (2756 0308, www.barbajean.com)

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The Fork & Cork

The Golden Fork

Bottegin Palazzo Xara

The Fork & Cork

Set within a stately palazzo erected in the 18th century, which is also the official seat of the L’Isle Adam Band Club, Bottegin Palazzo Xara offers a varied menu within a casual, bistro-style environment. Set menus and afternoon tea for groups are also available here.

Chef patron Carl Zahra brought his love for food and wine together through The Fork & Cork, adopting a style of cooking that revolves around simplicity and creativity. Diners can opt for the à la carte menu of Mediterranean dishes based on seasonal produce, or the tempting tasting menu, both of which change regularly.

9B, St Paul Street, Rabat (2145 4538, www.bottegin.com.mt)

Saqqajja Hill, Rabat (7904 7043, www.forkandcork.com.mt)

Coogi’s This quaint restaurant and tea garden is housed within a lovingly restored, ancient townhouse replete with original features. The largely Italian menu offers a range of homely and hearty dishes, including classic pizza and pasta options. We recommend a table in the courtyard to dine beneath a lovely, vine canopy. 5, St Agatha’s Esplanade, Mdina (2145 9987, www.coogis.co)

The Golden Fork Founder and executive chef, Letizia Vella, offers a delightful dining experience at The Golden Fork, with a novel approach to Mediterranean cuisine that draws on her own gastronomic memories. With most of its fresh ingredients sourced locally, you can expect top-quality dishes that are almost too pretty to eat. 31, Hospital Street, Rabat (9971 1273, www.thegoldenfork.com.mt)

Danny’s

Grotto Tavern

Open for breakfast, brunch and lunch, Danny’s is a firstrate bistro with a mouth-watering menu. From the creamy sloppy eggs to the crunchy falafel salad, every dish is prepared with gusto, though a special mention goes to the scrumptious burgers, which have reached cult status among many local fans.

Housed within a 2,000-year-old cave, you can expect the unexpected at Grotto Tavern. Head chef Terence Paul Saliba builds the Mediterranean menu around fresh and locally sourced produce, while drawing inspiration from all over the world to curate a truly exciting dining experience.

Imriehel Bypass, Qormi (2144 1171, www.dannys.com.mt)

9, 10, 12, St Paul Square, Rabat (2145 3258, www.grottotavern.net)

Da Luigi

L’Agape

Run by Louis, a third-generation baker, this familyrun eatery in Rabat is an embodiment of the owner’s passion for cooking. The delightful Mediterranean menu, which includes reinvented traditional recipes, is based on seasonal and carefully sourced, local ingredients, complemented by an extensive wine list.

Inspired by the Italian osteria concept, L’Agape invites its patrons to wine, dine and simply have a good time. The menu is concise, and based on the premise of sourcing all ingredients from Rabat, which is where the restaurant is located. The wine list also includes some great Italian options.

Gilormu Dingli Street, Rabat (2145 0123, www.daluigimalta.com)

St Catald Square, Rabat (7945 5438, www.lagapemalta.com)

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E AT & D R I N K

Root 81

Rickshaw

L’Orangerie Bistro This young restaurant is quickly making a name for itself for its creative and flavourful Mediterranean dishes which channel the owner’s love for good food and wine. Its offbeat location and rustic vibe add to its charm, with lovely sunset views to boot, making it an exciting dining option in the area. Salina Road, Naxxar (7961 6132)

Luna Restaurant Housed within the 18th-century Palazzo Parisio, this elegant eatery is a great choice for a fine dinner in stylish surroundings. Every item on the concise menu is designed to surprise and delight patrons, using fresh and quality produce, including citrus fruits grown on the grounds and olive oil from the family’s own olive groves. Palazzo Parisio & Gardens, 29, Victory Square, Naxxar (2141 2461, www.palazzoparisio.com)

Root 81 Chef patron Robert Cassar pours his love for good food into the tantalising menu at Root 81, a charming eatery offering great service and a welcoming setting on the Saqqajja Steps. Patrons can indulge in tasty fare from the à la carte or degustation menus, and soak up some superb views of the countryside below Rabat and Mdina. 22A, Saqqajja Hill, Rabat (7949 2083, www.root81.mt)

Townhouse No. 3 Chef patron Malcolm Bartolo revolves his carefully-crafted dishes around the best fresh, local produce and artisanal 160 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

goods. The food is rooted in simplicity and flavour, inspired by Mediterranean cuisine, and served in the most charming location in a narrow street within this ancient town. 3, 4 Republic Street, Rabat (7900 4123, www.townhouseno3.com) ORIENTAL

Rickshaw Rickshaw restaurant is one of the most enduring oriental eateries on the island. Located within the Corinthia Palace, it promises patrons an exhilarating gastronomic journey bursting with flavours of the Far East, including clay pot dishes and the popular aromatic glazed duck. Corinthia Palace, De Paule Avenue, Attard (2144 0301) BARS

Don Mesquita This laidback wine bar, located in a quiet square within the Silent City, is one of few in the area, making it a popular spot for a drink and a platter filled with local delicacies, including Maltese sausage and cheese, in a rustic setting. 5A, Mesquita Square, Mdina (2702 6640)

L’Enoteca At L’Enoteca, the philosophy is that ‘wine and food make friends’. This wine bar’s dedicated team takes pride in curating interesting food pairings to complement the extensive selection of wine, such as the focaccia with local strawberries and a Balkan meze featuring cured, roasted sausage. 28, St Catald Street, Rabat (9933 3886)

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SLEEP

BRIAN GRECH

Corinthia Palace

The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux

DAN CAM

Corinthia Palace

Corinthia Palace A landmark of the central village of Attard, this luxurious hotel has never faltered in its commitment to offer guests a memorable experience. From the pristine rooms and suites to the lavish Athenaeum Spa, landscaped gardens, tennis courts and excellent dining choices, including Bahia and Rickshaw Restaurant, you simply won’t want to leave. De Paule Avenue, Attard (2144 0301, www.corinthia.com/palace-hotel-and-spa)

The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux

The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux This five-star, boutique hotel delivers the magic you would expect when lodging in an ancient city. It is within a 17th-century palazzo which now houses 17 individually designed, luxurious guest rooms, as well as a range of facilities, including a gym, sauna and pool, and four fantastic restaurants, one of which is the one-Michelin starred de Mondion. Council Square, Mdina (2145 0560, www.xarapalace.com.mt) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 161

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Mellieha, Bugibba & Around Your journey up north will be marked by a notable change of scene – a greener landscape, a slower pace, unforgettable views and sunsets, and the largest number of beautiful beaches in one area within the Maltese archipelago.

t’s impossible to visit this part of the island without a stop (or three) at one of the many gorgeous beaches that hug the coast – from long sandy beaches to small, scenic swimming spots, all of which are major attractions in the area. During the cooler months, the unspoiled countryside is popular among ramblers, while the many excellent restaurants and historical sites attract visitors all year round. The town of Qawra may be small and busy, but it is home to one of the largest, impossible-to-miss landmarks in the area, the starshaped Malta National Aquarium, located on the promenade, which sustains a range of marine life, from sharks, stingrays and eels to jellyfish and batfish, as well as

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a collection of reptiles. If you’re looking for a quiet spot to kick back in, visit the peaceful Salini National Park, which features several shaded spots and a café. Nearby Bugibba is also a busy town, particularly throughout summer, but has many attractive qualities too and draws the crowds for its beaches, bars, restaurants, pubs, ice-cream parlours and nightlife spots, as well as a lively promenade that’s worth exploring. The promenade will lead you to the slower and quieter seaside town of St Paul’s Bay, with its colourful boats and quaint townhouses, testament to its endurance as a fishing village. Across the water, look out for the uninhabited St Paul’s island, which is said to be

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the spot where St Paul, the patron saint of Malta who converted the Maltese to Christianity, was shipwrecked in 60AD. You’ll be able to spot the statue of the saint, around four metres high, which was inaugurated in 1845 and still dominates the island today. You can also visit the island by boat on an organised trip. Your next port of call should be Mellieha, but we recommend making a few stops for sightseeing along the way. After driving through Xemxija, take a secondary road down to Mistra Bay, a detour that will not disappoint, and is ideal for a quiet country walk in winter or a quick dip in summer. Further on is Selmun Palace, which watches imposingly over Mistra Bay, and is a stone’s throw away from the

small and secluded Selmun Bay, known among locals as Imgiebah, which, albeit tricky to get to (you’ll need to either offroad or trek), is a tiny bit of paradise. Finally, perched on top of a hill north-west of the island is the village of Mellieha, which dates back to medieval times. It is home to Mellieha Bay, also known as Ghadira Bay – the largest beach in Malta and Gozo with clear blue waters, as well as BirdPark Malta, the bird sanctuary that is also referred to as Ghadira Nature Reserve and is a freshwater haven for migrating birds. While you’re here, make some time to squeeze in a visit to the impressive Red Tower dedicated to St Agatha, which also serves as an ideal vantage point for striking views of this part of the island. PLACES OF INTEREST

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WIED MUSA ROAD

Riviera Bay (Ghajn Tuffieha)

8 Ghadira Nature Reserve

Golden Bay

9 Selmun Bay (Imgiebah)

Majjistral Nature & History Park

10 Selmun Palace

Popeye Village

Paradise Bay

Red Tower (St Agatha’s Tower)

Mellieha Bay

11 Mistra Bay 12 Malta National Aquarium 13 Ta’ Fra Ben 14 Salina National Park

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Sanctuary of Our Lady of Mellieha

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Red Tower (St Agatha’s Tower) ISTOCK.COM/GOOD LIFE STUDIO

H E R I TA G E Red Tower (St Agatha’s Tower) Situated on the crest of Marfa Ridge, the impressive Red Tower dedicated to St Agatha is hard to miss. It was built in 1649 under the rule of the Order of the Knights of St John, and equipped with a cannon and a strong defence force. Today, visitors can wander inside and around it, absorbing beautiful panoramic views. Tad-Dahar Street, Mellieha (2122 5952, www.dinlarthelwa.org)

Sanctuary of Our Lady of Mellieha This small sanctuary was originally a cave and, although it was later absorbed into another parish, it retained its importance as a pilgrimage site for centuries. The altarpiece – a Byzantine-style fresco – is believed to date back to the 13th century, while the site has attracted some notable visitors over the years, including Pope John Paul II during his Apostolic visit to Malta in 1990.

Sanctuary of St Paul’s Shipwreck It is believed that this chapel was built on the spot where St Paul, following a shipwreck, lit a bonfire and was bitten by a poisonous snake, but remained unaffected. Inside, you’ll notice three captivating paintings depicting scenes of the Bible-documented shipwreck. Bugibba Street, St Paul’s Bay (7908 1904)

Selmun Palace Built by the Monte della Redenzione degli Schiavi, a charity founded during the reign of Grand Master Alof de Wignacourt, Selmun Palace (also known as Selmun Tower) is an 18th-century, tower-like architectural gem, located on the outskirts of Mellieha, which served as a hunting and recreational lodge for the Knights of St John. Mellieha

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Wignacourt Tower

Wignacourt Tower Built in 1610 by Grand Master Alof de Wignacourt, this bastioned watch tower is the oldest surviving coastal defence post in Malta. During the 18th century, it was equipped with a cannon, and a century later it was used as a police station and telegraph post. The tower recently underwent extensive restoration, and is generally open daily to the public. St Francis Street, St Paul’s Bay (www.dinlarthelwa.org)

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Popeye Village

Malta National Aquarium ARON TANTI

Ghadira Nature Reserve

AT T R A C T I O N S Ghadira Nature Reserve At this reserve, situated in a picturesque spot in Mellieha Bay and open between September and May, guided tours are available to watch migrating birds, such as egrets and sandpipers, descend for fresh water. With around 140 species arriving annually, the park is also home to over 200 species of birds and various other animals. Marfa Road, Ghadira Bay, Mellieha (7955 4347, www.birdlifemalta.org)

Majjistral Nature & History Park Comprising a 6km coastal area stretching from Anchor Bay to ix-Xaghra l-Hamra, this national park, which is protected as part of the Natura 2000 network, includes areas of military heritage, archaeological sites, natural caves, and stunning coastal cliffs. Guided tours are held regularly. Kappella tal-Militar Street, Manikata (2152 1291, www.majjistral.org)

Malta National Aquarium

Salina National Park

With its eye-catching, star-shaped design along the Qawra promenade, Malta’s first national aquarium is hard to miss, but well worth a visit. It is home to a remarkable collection of fish, ranging from species found in local waters to sharks, stingrays, eels, and several other stunning sea creatures. The popular, adjacent Café del Mar beach club forms part of the Aquarium complex.

The quiet, green oasis in Salina is perfect for relaxing while lying on the grass, and for families with children to run and play. Encircling an open fountain surrounded by natural turf, the park also features an artificial water stream that flows towards the adjoining parking area.

Trunciera Street, Qawra (2258 8100, www.aquarium.com.mt)

Kids will love this large water park packed with fun attractions, including water slides, a large wave pool, a lazy river, and several swimming pools, as well as a funfilled calendar of activities led by professional animators. There is also a fun park on site, which features a trampoline and bouncy castles, as well as a number of casual dining options and plenty of parking space.

Popeye Village Since its early days as a film set for the 1980 musical production ‘Popeye’ starring the late Robin Williams, Popeye Village has continued to charm visitors with its lopsided huts, rickety bridges and swimming spots. Kids will love the range of activities available, while everyone will enjoy the breathtaking views from the village across the bay.

Salina, St Paul’s Bay (2292 8100)

Splash & Fun Water Park

Coast Road, Bahar ic-Caghaq (2737 4283, www.splashandfunmalta.com)

Prajjet Street, Anchor Bay, Mellieha (2152 4782, www.popeyemalta.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 165

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Café del Mar

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Gnejna Bay

LEISURE Café del Mar This popular lido is a perfect place for kicking back on a comfy sunbed, with a drink in hand, while absorbing the stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea and St Paul’s island. Visitors are invited to relax, swim, drink, dine, and party. Live DJ sessions and popular sunset events make Café del Mar one of Malta’s top party hotspots, particularly throughout summer. Trunciera Street, Qawra (2258 8100, www.cafedelmar.com.mt)

Gnejna Bay This mainly sandy beach is located a stone’s throw away from the village of Mgarr in the north-west of Malta. It is quieter than other nearby sandy beaches, and offers great snorkelling opportunities. Sunbathers can enjoy digging their toes in the sand or lying back on the nearby stretch of flat, limestone rock. Mgarr

Golden Bay

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Golden Bay

Mistra Bay

Golden Bay is one of the most popular sandy beaches in Malta, and with good reason. Its clear waters are perfect for swimming and snorkelling, and it offers plenty of onsite facilities. Head there early to beat the crowds, or late in the afternoon for a spectacular sunset view.

Accessed via a side road near Xemxija, the intimate sea inlet at Mistra Bay leads to a lush, green valley, making it perfect for a quiet stroll during the cooler months. In summer, the bay is a great off-thebeaten-track swimming location, which is particularly popular among locals.

Mellieha

Xemxija

Mellieha Bay

Nine Lives Lido

Also known as Ghadira Bay, the vast, sandy beach of Mellieha Bay is the largest on the island. It boasts a stretch of clear, shallow water, it is easily accessible from the road, and offers a range of fun activities such as kite surfing, canoeing, water skiing, and banana boat rides, making it one of the best-equipped and most family-friendly local beaches.

This carefully curated lido and restaurant space, located on the Perched Beach in St Paul’s Bay, invites sun worshippers to treat themselves – sit back on a comfortable sunbed by day and enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner at the restaurant. As the sun goes down, the mood changes, as music and a calming ‘sunset ritual’ make relaxation an absolute must.

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Perched Beach, St Paul’s Bay (2157 9658, www.ninelivesmalta.com)

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Ta’ Fra Ben

Paradise Bay

Oracle Casino

Riviera Bay (Ghajn Tuffieha)

Located within the Dolmen Resort Hotel, Oracle Casino is the only casino in this part of the island. It boasts a unique seaside location with spectacular sea views and daily live entertainment. The casino also offers gaming tables, poker tournaments, cash games and slot machines, as well as food from the onsite bistro.

Also known as Ghajn Tuffieha Bay (meaning apple’s eye), Riviera Bay, which is accessed via a long flight of steps, is among the most picturesque on the island. The bay and neighbouring cliffs afford unspoiled views, and are home to an ancient defence tower and remnants of Roman baths. This scenic stretch is ideal for water sports, offered onsite, and for stunning sunsets. Fit in a bite to eat and a drink at the idyllic Singita Miracle Beach, a popular spot all day long.

Islet Promenade, Qawra (2157 0057, www.oraclecasino.com)

Paradise Bay Paradise Bay is a small, secluded, sandy beach at the furthest north point of Malta, nestled between cliffs, with unobstructed views of both Gozo and Comino. It draws crowds for its clean and clear waters, and sunbathing opportunities, and is equipped with most beach facilities, including sunbeds and umbrellas, as well as a good-quality dining spot. Mellieha

Mgarr

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Riviera Bay (Ghajn Tuffieha)

Ta’ Fra Ben

The only way to access Selmun Bay, also called Imgiebah Bay, is via a rough road, but this beautiful beach is well worth the effort. Its remote location makes it quieter than most bays in the area, and its golden sand and clear water are alluring for both humans and dogs, who are welcome here.

This rocky beach, located right behind Qawra’s only coastal watch tower, is popular among swimmers and snorkellers, and becomes a go-to for barbecues in the evenings. If you’re seeking some shelter from the sun, head to the small reggae bar at the top of the road that leads down to the bay – a lovely spot to wind down with a cold drink.

Mellieha

Qawra

Selmun Bay (Imgiebah Bay)

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E AT & D R I N K

The Crafty Chef

Garam Masalaa

CAFÉS

The Crafty Chef This cosy café offers an assortment of tasty, savoury snacks and sweet treats in a delightfully warm environment. The sweet selection on display is constantly changing, with various cakes, cookies and bite-sized goodies on offer, along with a great choice of coffee-based drinks. 6, Is-Salib Street, Mellieha (7724 6307)

Debbie’s Café At Debbie’s Café, you’ll be delighted with a hearty meal or snack at any time of day, be it breakfast, lunch or even dinner on weekends. From pancake stacks, muffins and cakes to English breakfast, hot dogs and burgers, everything is freshly prepared and incredibly tasty, while its coffee is reputed to be among the best in Mellieha. 62, Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Mellieha, (2765 4101)

Munchies This popular café and restaurant is open all-year round. With spectacular views of Mellieha Bay, it attracts beachgoers looking for a quick snack, as well as anyone in the mood for a leisurely lunch, dinner, or even a coffee along with a delicious, home-made dessert in a bright and stylish environment. Marfa Road, Mellieha (2157 6416)

Sea View Café This no-frills café on Mellieha hill has been open for over 60 years, and draws visitors from near and far for its laidback vibe, good food and stunning views of Mellieha and Gozo, which can be enjoyed from the indoor seating

area, its much-loved terrace or even the children’s play area. Salvinu Vella Street, Mellieha (2704 2230) INDIAN

Garam Masalaa With a solid reputation for over 15 years, this family-run Indian eatery overlooking Salina Bay is popular among locals for its authentic, delicious Indian food. Diners can choose from a wide selection of starters before sampling an assortment of marinated meats cooked in traditional tandoor ovens, all freshly prepared in its open kitchen. Dawret Il-Qawra, St Paul’s Bay (9953 6353, www.garammasalaamalta.com)

New Madras Chef patron Muthuraman Vellaichamy, affectionately known as Muthu, brings plenty of experience and skill to this family-run restaurant. The vast menu features carefully selected dishes from the many regions of India where Muthu worked, treating diners at New Madras to a genuine experience of Indian cuisine. 3, Gondoffli Road, Bugibba (9929 8138, www.newmadras.com.mt) MEDITERRANEAN

The Chef’s Table Founded by chef patron Alain James Grech, The Chef’s Table works to the motto ‘cooked with love, served with a smile’. This eatery is a well-loved gem in the heart of Bugibba, serving delectable dishes with superb presentation, based on seasonal produce. The varied menu and daily specials also cater for vegetarians and vegans. Pioneer Road, Bugibba (9981 5960, www.chefstablemalta.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 169

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E AT & D R I N K

Elba

JOEL GUELLER

Giuseppi’s Bar & Bistro

Commando Restaurant

Ix-Xatba

Housed within a 300-year-old building, the tastefully converted Commando Restaurant stands on a hilltop in the historical centre of Mellieha. The menu is exceptional and bridges traditional cuisine with experimental techniques, delivering simple-yet-refined dishes that are wholesome and delightful. In summer, reserve an outdoor table on the terrace for dinner with a view.

Specialising in Mediterranean and Maltese cuisines, the menu at this family-run, casual eatery is based on good, generous and honest food. Fresh fish and seafood are the order of the day, but if you’re keen to sample a wellprepared local dish, consider the rabbit cooked in garlic and red wine or roast lamb.

Iz-Zjara tal-Papa Square, Mellieha (9967 9555, www.commandorestaurant.com)

Elba At Elba, diners can enjoy a scrumptious meal inspired by Mediterranean cuisine while listening to lounge music, all within a lovingly restored 18th-century building. The vast menu includes tasting dishes, pastas, pizzas, grills, as well as delicious desserts alongside an exciting wine list, while a selection of sweet and savoury dishes is also served for brunch on weekends. Coast Road, Bahar Ic-Caghaq (9949 9960, www.elbarestaurant.com.mt)

Giuseppi’s Bar & Bistro If you’re looking for something a little beyond the ordinary, Giuseppi’s Bar & Bistro – headed by celebrated Maltese chef Michael Diacono – will certainly deliver it. This established bistro is perfect for a special night out, offering mouth-watering cuisine either al fresco on the wooddecked terrace or in the cosy Mediterranean-meets-theHamptons interior. The menu changes regularly according to seasonal produce. Salini Resort, Salina Bay, Naxxar (2157 4882, www.giuseppisrestaurant.com)

Marfa Road, Mellieha (2152 1753, mt.xatbarestaurant.com)

La Buona Trattoria del Nonno At this popular, family-run eatery, Mediterranean and Italian-inspired dishes based on a combination of charcoal-grilled cooking and slow oven-baking delight diners in a pleasant garden environment. Lara’s famous pork ribs, slow-cooked in the wood oven for four hours, are a firm favourite here, as are their tasty pizzas. St Paul Street, St Paul’s Bay (2157 3182, www.trattoriadelnonno.eu)

Lovage Bistro Chef patron Matthew Schembri combines his culinary skill and passion with top-notch ingredients to deliver a splendid menu that includes pasta, fresh cuts of meat and fish, and mouth-watering desserts, alongside a quality wine list. With outdoor seating, a bar and cosy indoor area, this is an ideal place for a memorable meal. L-Imhar Street, St Paul’s Bay (7959 4098, www.lovagebistro.com)

Made in Sud This unassuming eatery is a gem for pizza lovers, where the beloved pizza is cooked in the Neapolitan style and bursting with flavour. The pizzaiolo’s passion, combined with mouth-watering ingredients brought from Italy – such as truffled burrata and guanciale – ensure that each pizza is delicious and distinctive, reminiscent of those you’d find along the Costa Amalfitana down to the Calabria region. 150, Patri G Calleja Street, St Paul’s Bay (2702 0248)

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E AT & D R I N K

STEVEN ROONEY

Manakis

Rebekah’s

Manakis

Rebekah’s

Step into a typically Greek tavern and enjoy a splendid array of mezes, accompanied by a glass of iced Ouzo – an anise-flavoured aperitif – at the wonderful Manakis. Here, where the motto is food ‘prepared with passion and served with respect’, you’ll relish digging into bowls of hummus, tzatziki, crisp-fried calamari, grilled halloumi and chicken souvlaki, in a bright and breezy setting.

Rebekah’s balances old-world charm with modern culinary concepts, driven by a desire to treat every ingredient with respect and use it with skill, resulting in simple, tasty food that is created with technique and creativity. The menu is French Mediterranean and patrons are treated to delectable and artistic dishes, to be enjoyed in the airy courtyard or in the rustic interiors within this wonderfully converted house of character.

Seaview Hotel, Islets Promenade, Bugibba (2148 3835, www.manakis.com.mt). Also Spinola Road, St Julian’s

12, Tgham Street, Mellieha (2152 1145, www.rebekahsrestaurant.com)

Mithna An 18th-century flour mill has been expertly converted to house the delightful Mithna restaurant, known for its topquality cuisine and years of experience serving patrons distinctive dishes. It offers varied à la carte and a kids’ menu, as well as an extensive wine list, all of which may be enjoyed either within the quaint windmill itself or in the charming outdoor area.

Unassuming yet loved by locals for its delicious, homemade pizza, Tal-Puzzu also serves a selection of freshly prepared traditional Mediterranean dishes, ranging from fresh pasta and burgers to a variety of grilled meats. A breakfast menu is also available at this family-friendly restaurant with a cosy and welcoming atmosphere.

58, Main Street, Mellieha (2152 0404, www.mithna.com)

11, Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Mellieha (2754 4388)

One80 Kitchen & Lounge With views stretching from the parish church down to the Ta’ Ruman Valley and Mellieha Bay, One80 offers excellent dishes in a stylish setting, be it for lunch while visiting one of the nearby beaches, or dinner with a stunning sunset behind you. Over in Gozo, you may find One80 at Mgarr Yacht Marina too, and enjoy the views and bustling atmosphere of the Mgarr Harbour. 30, Il-Wied ta’ Ruman Street, Mellieha (2152 1637, www.one80.com.mt) 172 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Tal-Puzzu

Tarragon Adopting a ‘field-to-fork’ approach and using only the best, local ingredients, this award-winning restaurant combines an excellent mix of quality, comfort and service, with a tantalising menu that includes shellfish, fresh fish and meat, and outstanding desserts. Consider the eight-course degustation menu for a superb culinary adventure. 21, Church Street, St Paul’s Bay (2157 3759, www.tarragonmalta.com)

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E AT & D R I N K RICHARD HAUGHTON

Venus

Amami

Venus

Chang Thai

Set in the heart of Bugibba’s bustling square, this small, family-run restaurant offers a diverse menu of Mediterranean cuisine, including a selection of daily specials, often featuring fresh fish, crudi, and meat cuts, not to mention the delectable pasta with seafood dishes, along with a tempting aperitifs menu. Venus is a great choice for an intimate and memorable meal.

The brainchild of Nok Debono, Chang Thai has been serving the most genuine Thai dishes in authentic surroundings since opening its doors in 2015. This eatery promises a memorable journey of flavours with a menu of superb dishes from across all four regions of Thailand, prepared by Thai chefs, ranging from tasty seafood, fish and meat, to vegetarian and children’s options.

Pioneer Road, Bugibba (9984 6767, www.venusrestaurantmalta.com)

Tourists Street, Qawra (9945 0609, www.changthai-restaurant.com)

Zigumar Its striking location, perched right on the coast with views of Qawra Bay, sets the scene for an awesome, yet laidback dining experience. The Mediterranean menu is mouthwatering, and its highlights are undoubtedly the fresh fish and seafood, ranging from scallops and oysters to wild, local tuna, pasta with sea urchins and raw fish platters, prepared and plated to perfection. Luzzu Street, Qawra (9906 4380) ORIENTAL

Amami In terms of local Asian restaurants, Amami – the name of a group of islands in Japan – is up there among the best. It merges the finest Asian cuisines to create a sophisticated combination of genuine flavours by sourcing local, fresh produce, delighting patrons with a fantastic menu that includes sushi, platters, robata, signature dishes, and a great choice of cocktails and sake. Marfa Road, Mellieha (2152 1156, www.amamirestaurant.com)

BARS

Cheeky Monkey Gastropub At the Cheeky Monkey, expect to have an all-round good time – the vibe is laidback (there’s a swing as a seating option), the beverage menu is vast and features topquality beers (including craft beers) with pints on tap, spirits, cognacs, liqueurs, rums, cocktails, smoothies, hot beverages and more, and the food menu is full of tempting options, ranging from burgers to fish and chips. Qawra Coast Road, Qawra (7954 3853, www.cheekymonkeymalta. com). Also 175, Merchants Street, Valletta (2235 4050)

O’Reilly’s Gastro Pub This popular pub draws crowds for its live entertainment and screening of live sporting events, as well as for its innovative cocktails, such as the 1.1 litre cocktails, frozen daiquiris and margheritas. It’s a welcoming place with warm and friendly bar staff, and a convenient open-allhours kitchen. Hallel Street, Bugibba (9924 0788)

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Maritim Antonin Hotel & Spa Malta Lure Hotel & Spa

Dolmen Resort Hotel RAMON PORTELLI

db San Antonio Hotel & Spa

Labranda Riviera Hotel & Spa

At this four-star, all-inclusive hotel located at the heart of Qawra, guests can expect an all-round pleasant experience with plenty of facilities to avail of. The db San Antonio Hotel & Spa comprises 500 rooms and suites, six themed restaurants, free-flowing drinks, four swimming pools, fitness and spa facilities, and an ever-changing entertainment programme.

Boasting a tranquil, seafront location and pristine views of the islands of Gozo and Comino, this laidback resort offers guests all the trimmings for a relaxing stay – from the Elysium spa to multiple seawater swimming pools, several bars and restaurants, and scuba diving packages that include visits to nearby wrecks and dive sites. Pets are also welcome here.

Tourists Street, Qawra (2158 3434, www.dbhotelsresorts.com/dbsanantonio)

Marfa Bay, Mellieha (2152 5900, www.labranda.com/riviera-hotel-spa)

db Seabank Resort & Spa

Lure Hotel & Spa

Located across the road from Malta’s largest beach, Mellieha Bay, this resort features all the necessary amenities for a great seaside stay, including five pools, seven themed restaurants, a spa, and a range of sports and leisure facilities. All of the nautical-themed rooms have a balcony or terrace and offer great views of the surroundings as well as the hotel’s large, main pool.

This adults-only, boutique hotel has added a stunning accommodation option to the north of the island. The seven rooms and suites are designed to high standards, boasting a mix of bespoke, contemporary aesthetics and antique touches. The luxury facilities include an indoor pool, a rooftop infinity pool, a spa, and the elegant Core restaurant, all set in unforgettable surroundings.

Marfa Road, Mellieha (2289 1000, www.dbhotelsresorts.com/dbseabank)

9, Parish Square, Mellieha (2760 0223, www.lurehotelmalta.com)

Dolmen Resort Hotel With spectacular views of the sea and St Paul’s island, and a quality, four-star service, the Dolmen Resort Hotel is a popular lodging option in the north. Its central Qawra location is a plus, along with its bright and spacious rooms, an extensive choice of dining options, and many onsite facilities, such as a private beach lido, a diving club, the Oracle Casino, and a fitness room and spa. Dolmen Street, Qawra (2355 2355, www.dolmen.com.mt) 174 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Maritim Antonin Hotel & Spa Malta Perched on a hill with breath-taking views of the picturesque town of Mellieha and its lovely countryside, the Maritim Antonin boasts a fantastic, central location and four-star experience, with various room options, indoor and al fresco dining, a rooftop pool, a diving centre, as well as a top-notch spa with sauna, steam room and jacuzzi facilities. Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Mellieha (2289 2201, www.maritim.com.mt)

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Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Malta Golden Sands

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SLE EP

Salini Resort

Paradise Bay Resort Hotel

Salini Resort

Situated at the northernmost tip of the island and surrounded by sea, Paradise Bay Resort Hotel offers guests a relaxing stay in beautiful, natural surroundings. Choose from a variety of spacious rooms, restaurants and bars, seawater swimming pools, and a private sandy beach awarded the prestigious Blue Flag status, as well as a tennis court, playground and diving school.

A great choice for family holidays, the Salini Resort, situated along the coast overlooking Salina Bay, affords magnificent sea views and elegant rooms and suites inspired by the surrounding landscape. It also offers four dining options, including the exquisite Giuseppi’s restaurant, outdoor pools, two tennis courts, a fully equipped gym and spa facilities.

Paradise Bay, Cirkewwa (2289 5000, www.paradise-bay.com)

Salina Bay, St Paul’s Bay (2016 3000, www.saliniresort.com)

Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Malta Golden Sands

Seaview Hotel

Located along the shores of the scenic Golden Bay, this five-star hotel enjoys some of Malta’s finest views. The Radisson Blu’s Golden Sands Resort boasts luxurious rooms and suites with a 24-hour room service, as well as top-notch amenities that include panoramic spa facilities, four restaurants, three bars, a diving centre, kids’ play area and plenty of sports and leisure options. Golden Bay, L/O Mellieha (2356 1000, www.radissonhotels.com)

This seafront hotel, located along the Qawra promenade, enjoys views of St Paul’s island, as well as beautiful sunsets and the Mediterranean Sea. With an adults-only policy (16+), guests can expect a relaxed and rejuvenating stay at the Seaview Hotel. Facilities include a rooftop infinity pool and bar, an indoor pool, a gym, well-being treatments and a number of restaurants, including Greek eatery Manakis. Trunciera Street, Qawra (2157 3105, www.seaviewmaltahotel.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 175

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Gozo & Comino Hop onto the ferry for a short journey to the second largest island of the Maltese archipelago – replete with historical sites, attractions, pristine countryside, and a distinctive personality of its own.

n just 25 minutes, you could journey from Malta to Gozo via a ferry from Cirkewwa (for cars and passengers), or take a 45-minute ferry trip from Valletta (passengers only), to discover a quainter side to the Maltese islands. Once in Gozo, absorb its lazy pace, stunning scenery, abundant countryside, beautiful beaches, as well as fantastic food. At just 67sqkm, there’s a lot you can pack into a few days in Gozo. You’ll get off the ferry at Mgarr Harbour, and quickly get a sense of what the ‘island of the three hills’, as it is known among locals, has to offer. While buses are the main means of public transport in Gozo, hiring a car

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may make it easier for you to wander through the charming villages at liberty. Alternatively, two hop-on, hop-off bus routes will take you around the most popular sites. Most of the main roads in Gozo lead to the capital, Rabat, which is also referred to as Victoria – named as such during the British rule to mark Queen Victoria’s diamond jubilee. At its core lies Independence Square (better known as it-Tokk), home to several market vendors who set up regularly to sell everything from beach towels and sunglasses to traditional Gozo lace. Within the city, perched on a hill, is the imposing, fortified Citadel – the Cittadella, dating back to the Middle Ages.

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eateries, or for a dip at Marsalforn Bay, the only beach along with scenic Hondoq ir-Rummien to enjoy Blue Flag Status. If beach hopping is what you’re after, add Mgarr ix-Xini to your list – a small yet stunning beach just a few minutes’ away by car from the main harbour.

There are many historical sites to enjoy across the island, most notably the UNESCO World Heritage site of Ggantija, the Ta’ Kola Windmill, the mythical Calypso’s Cave, and Ramla Bay, with its deep-red sand and crystal-clear waters.

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Along the dramatic west coast of the island is the beautiful Dwejra, which sadly lost one of its quintessential landmarks in 2017, the Azure Window, following a violent storm that caused it to crumble into the sea. Still, the surrounding area is beautiful, and we recommend a short walk down to the Inland Sea for a boat ride through the caves into the open sea, observing the intriguing Fungus Rock, which has a fascinating history all of its own.

While on the ferry to Gozo, look out for the picturesque island of Comino, the smallest of the three inhabited islands that make up the Maltese archipelago, home to just a handful of residents, but heaving with visitors during the summer months. Although small, the highlights on the island are superb, and include the breath-taking Blue Lagoon and the largest coastal tower, the Santa Marija tower, built by the Order of the Knights of St John. Ferries between Comino and both Malta and Gozo cross frequently, so you may easily spend a few hours or a full day on this sublime island.

Further up north, on the outskirts of the tiny village of Ghasri, you’ll find the charming Ta’ Gurdan Lighthouse perched on a hill, from where you’ll be able to enjoy spectacular, panoramic views of Gozo. Merely 10 minutes away, the seaside town of Marsalforn is well worth visiting for a walk along its bustling promenade, dotted with bars and al fresco

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Ggantija Temples

Cittadella

H E R I TA G E Cittadella This ancient, fortified city is a landmark of Gozo, visible from practically anywhere on the island. Situated above the centre of the capital, Rabat, the Citadel, which dates back to the Middle Ages, is an architectural gem with stunning, 360-degree views and meandering streets, and features several museums, sites, and crafts shops. Rabat

Ggantija Temples According to local lore, the two Neolithic temples that make up Ggantija Temples were built by ‘giants’, as some of the megaliths weigh over 50 tonnes. Enjoying UNESCO World Heritage status, the site dates back around 5,600 years and is an architectural marvel well worth visiting. John Otto Bayer Street, Xaghra (2155 3194, www.heritagemalta.org)

Gharb Folklore Museum Housed within an 18th-century building, this privately owned museum comprises 28 rooms filled with objects linked to Gozo’s traditional trades, crafts and pastimes, ranging from carpentry and wine-making to fishing, milling, and printing. Frenc ta’ l-Gharb Street, Gharb (2156 1929)

Heart of Gozo - Il-Hagar

Gozo Museum of Archaeology

Gran Castello Historic House

Located behind the original gateway to the Citadel, this was the first public museum to open its doors in Gozo in 1960. It is housed within a lovely, 17th-century townhouse and filled with exhibits divided into three sections: Prehistory, the Classical period, and the Medieval and Early Modern periods, each of which showcases fascinating local archaeological artefacts.

Previously known as the Folklore Museum, the historic house showcases exhibits related to the local, domestic, rural and traditional ways of Gozitan life. Interestingly, it is set within a cluster of houses that date back to the 16th century, built in the late Gothic style yet displaying Sicilian and Catalan influences.

Mdina Gate Street, Citadel, Rabat (2155 6144, www.heritagemalta.org)

Melite Bernardo De Opuo Street, Citadel, Rabat (2156 2034, www.heritagemalta.org)

Gozo Nature Museum

Heart of Gozo – Il-Hagar

Also located within the Citadel, the Gozo Nature Museum occupies three interconnected buildings that date back to the 17th century. With a focus on Gozo’s natural resources and their use throughout the ages, the collections include displays of the island’s geology, minerals, human and animal evolution, as well as marine life.

This complex of buildings recounts the history of Gozo through its people, presenting an authentic experience of the island’s heritage against the backdrop of its Christian culture. The collections include paintings, statues, religious vestments and coins, as well as gifts from Popes Francis and Benedict XVI.

St Martin’s Quarter Street, Citadel, Rabat (2155 6153, www.heritagemalta.org)

St George’s Square, Rabat (2155 7504, www.heartofgozo.org.mt)

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Ta’Pinu Sanctuary VIEWINGMALTA.COM/TED ATTARD

The Old Prison

St George’s Basilica

Within the Cittadella is the oldest surviving prison in Gozo, which was in continuous use between the mid-16th century and the beginning of the 20th century. Upon visiting the cells, look out for the ancient graffiti etched into the walls by the prisoners throughout the centuries, depicting sea vessels, crosses, and names.

Designed by Maltese architect Vittorio Cassar, St George’s Basilica is the perfect example of a Baroque church. Its marvellous interior, adorned with marble and gold stucco, houses several notable artworks, including a wooden statue of St George and two works by world-renowned Baroque painter Mattia Preti, one of which is the titular altarpiece.

Cathedral Square, Citadel, Rabat (2156 5988, www.heritagemalta.org)

San Dimitri Chapel Located close to the cliff known as the Cape of St Demetrius and surrounded by splendid countryside, the San Dimitri Chapel was rebuilt in 1736 on the spot where an early15th century chapel once stood. The intimate interior features a series of intricate paintings relating to the titular saint. L/O Gharb (2155 6129)

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St George’s Square, Rabat (2155 6377, www.stgeorge.org.mt)

St Mary’s Cathedral & Museum This towering Baroque cathedral is what greets visitors as they set foot inside the Cittadella. Located atop a flight of stairs, the cathedral and adjoining museum were designed in 1697 by Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafà. The cathedral is built in the shape of a Latin cross, and while the ceiling is flat, a trompe l’oeil painting gives the illusion of a dome. Cathedral Square, Citadel, Rabat (2155 4101)

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Ta’ Pinu Sanctuary Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Ta’ Pinu Sanctuary is a popular pilgrimage site, having also welcomed Pope Benedict XVI in 2010. Its parvis is adorned with beautiful mosaics depicting the mysteries of the rosary, and a series of evocative marble statues representing the Way of the Cross run up Ghammar Hill opposite the church. A kilometre away stands a museum dedicated to Karmni Grima, who is believed to have heard the voice of Our Lady at the chapel within the sanctuary that houses the revered 400-year-old titular painting of the Assumption to Heaven of Our Lady. Gharb (2155 6187, www.tapinu.org)

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Ta’ Kola Windmill VIEWINGMALTA.COM

Tal-Mixta Cave

AT T R A C T I O N S Gozo Citadel Visitors’ Centre This modern visitors’ centre, which is set within two water reservoirs built in the 1870s, takes visitors on a journey of the evolution of the Cittadella, showcasing its military as well as civil history, by way of interactive screens, printed panels, and audio-visual presentations that are insightful and educational. Citadel, Rabat (2215 6507)

Independence Square (It-Tokk) This square in Rabat is the literal heart of the capital. Known among locals as It-Tokk, it is home to a bustling, open-air market and several quaint cafés with outdoor seating. Impossible to miss is the Banca Giuratale, built between 1733 and 1738, once the seat of Gozo’s municipal government which today houses the Rabat local council. Il-Papa Gwanni Pawlu II Street, Rabat

Ta’ Gurdan Lighthouse Built in 1851 during British rule, this striking Gozitan landmark rises 161m above sea level. Ta’ Gurdan Lighthouse, which overlooks the lovely village of Ghasri, is no longer manned, but is worth the steep walk to get to it for its 360-degree, panoramic countryside views. Lanterna Street, Ghasri

Ta’ Xwejni Salt Pans

Ta’ Kola Windmill

Ta’ Xwejni Salt Pans

Named after the last miller who worked here, known as Zeppu ta’ Kola, this impressive stone windmill is one of the few surviving windmills on the islands that was built during the Knights’ period. Highlights include the former workshop on the ground floor and the living quarters on the first floor, as well as the impressive milling mechanism within the tower.

The rock-cut salt pans of Ta’ Xwejni, located just past Qbajjar Bay, are a sight to behold, particularly as the sun begins to set and its reflection shimmers on the pools of shallow water. Salt is still harvested from the 350-year-old salt pans during the summer months – a Gozitan tradition that has existed within local families for generations.

Bambina Street, Xaghra (2156 0171, www.heritagemalta.org)

Ta’ Mena Estate Sprawled over 25 hectares of land, this family-owned estate, founded by the late matriarch, Carmela, combines Gozo’s primary means of livelihood: agriculture and tourism. Visitors intrigued by Gozitan rural life would enjoy a visit to the estate, which offers tours of the extensive olive grove, orange grove and vineyards.

Zebbug

Tal-Mixta Cave Located high up on a cliff, this inconspicuous cave is tricky to get to, but worth every ounce of effort. It overlooks picturesque Ramla Bay, and is popular for its breath-taking sunset views enjoyed from above the famed red sandy beach. L/O Nadur

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Arthall Gozo Aurora Theatre

LEISURE Arthall Gozo With a focus on selling and promoting local and international contemporary and modern art, Arthall is a creative space that hosts regular exhibitions, as well as talks and events on various art forms, ranging from music to poetry and literature. 8, GPF Agius De Soldanis Street, Rabat (7705 1564, www.arthallgozo.com)

Astra Theatre Having welcomed a star-studded list of local and international performers to its stage, including celebrated Maltese tenor Joseph Calleja, Raffaella Carrà, Al Bano and the Ballet Classique de Paris, Astra Theatre is a cultural icon of Gozo. The theatre is renowned for its annual operatic event, and is expected to stage Georges Bizet’s ‘Carmen’ in October 2022. 9, Republic Street, Rabat (2155 0985, www.teatruastra.org.mt)

Aurora Theatre

Citadel Cinema

Designed and decorated by renowned Maltese artist Chev Emvin Cremona, the Aurora Theatre was deliberately laid out and fitted with materials that would render its acoustics perfect. The theatre will be kickstarting its 2022 opera season with a rendition of Giuseppe Verdi’s ‘Aida’ in October.

Housed within a 19th-century townhouse, Gozo’s only cinema is centrally located near the capital’s ancient Cittadella. Its two cinemas are equipped with 4K projectors that screen the latest Hollywood releases. Visit the website for the latest show times.

Republic Street, Rabat (7904 5779, www.teatruaurora.com)

The Duke Shopping Mall

Blue Lagoon One of the most picture-perfect swimming spots across the islands can be found here, between the island of Comino and the islet of Cominotto. The Blue Lagoon gets its name from the crystal-clear colour of its waters, which draw large crowds throughout the summer, especially on weekends. Heading here early will spare disappointment. Comino

17, Castle Hill, Rabat (2155 9955, www.citadelcinema.com)

Along the main road that leads to the capital, look out for this shopping mall that houses several established brands, including Original Marines, Accessorize, Adidas, Skechers, Springfield and Matalan. The ground floor coffee shop is great for a mid-shopping break, while free parking is available for all customers. Republic Street, Rabat (2155 8000, www.thedukegozo.com)

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Ramla Bay

The Inland Sea

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Hondoq Bay

La Grotta

Perfect for snorkelling and scuba diving, this picturesque, sandy beach is loved for its azure water, cave-exploring potential and marine life-spotting opportunities. It also boasts a pretty cool view of Comino island right opposite.

The popular La Grotta club, situated between Rabat and Xlendi Bay, has been entertaining party-goers since 1986. Its unique vibe is enhanced by its location – the indoor dancefloor is within a natural cave, and the large outdoor space boasts views of the winding valley below.

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Xlendi (9900 7070)

The Inland Sea This seawater lagoon links to the Mediterranean Sea through an opening formed by a narrow, natural arch. Located in Dwejra, it is a stone’s throw away from the site of the former Azure Window, a local icon which collapsed into the sea during a violent storm in 2017. It is a popular spot among divers, including for renowned French explorer Jacques Cousteau who allegedly mentioned the Inland Sea among his top 10 dives.

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Mgarr Ix-Xini

Hondoq Bay

Mgarr Ix-Xini This narrow inlet flanked by tall rocks was famously featured as the setting for Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie’s ill-fated film ‘By the Sea’. Its pebbled beach is small but one of the island’s most scenic, and provides a gentle slope into the water. With a nearby shipwreck, this beautiful bay is also popular with divers. Mgarr ix-Xini Street, Sannat

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Ramla Bay The sand at this popular wide stretch of beach – surrounded by sand dunes, endemic flora and agricultural land – aptly called Ramla l-Hamra (meaning red, sandy bay), has a distinct, red hue. It’s the perfect spot for swimming, snorkelling and sunbathing, and has several cafés and kiosks nearby, as well as shower facilities. L/O Xaghra

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Wied il-Ghasri

Ta’ Dbiegi Crafts Village

With its fine, ochre-coloured sand, this beautiful bay is trickier to get to than most, but you’ll be rewarded with stunning views once you arrive. Located at the end of a valley, the last part of the road is closed to vehicles, making it less crowded than other nearby beaches.

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San Blas Bay

L/O Nadur

Ta’ Dbiegi Crafts Village The oldest crafts village on the island, Ta’ Dbiegi is home to an intriguing selection of artisanal, high-quality crafts, ranging from pottery to candles and leather to metalwork. Spread over a vast area that served as the British soldiers’ quarters during World War II, visitors may also observe crafts persons at work. Be sure to pop into Ta’ Dbiegi Jewellery, a family-run workshop offering a vast collection of locally crafted silver items. Frangisk Portelli Street, Gharb (2155 3977, www.gozoartisans.com)

Vini e Capricci by Abrahams

Wied il-Ghasri

For an exquisite range of gourmet food items and fine wines, look no further than Vini e Capricci. You’ll find an extensive selection of artisanal foods and beverages, including wines sourced from local and international wineries, fresh and cured meats, olive oil, Italian cheeses, whiskies, and confectionery items. Be sure to visit the in-house vinoteca for a unique dining experience.

This stunning, gorge-like valley starts at Ta’ Dbiegi Hill and winds through the village of Ghasri, meeting the sea between the striking cliffs. It makes for a lovely backdrop for country walks in the winter, or a cooling dip during the hotter months. Ghasri

Gozitano Agricultural Village, Mgarr Road, Xewkija (2156 3231, www.viniecapricci.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 185

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Black Cat Café

Maxokk

CAFÉS

Black Cat Café This artisan café offers an intimate foodie experience. You’ll find a selection of teas, cakes, home-made scones and jam, as well as vegan foods and items originating from owner Paula’s homeland of Australia. Vajringa Street, Rabat (2156 9240)

Ta’ Kenuna Since coming under new management in 2021, Ta’ Kenuna has revamped its menu to offer French cuisine, with specialities hailing from the region of Alsace. Indulge in tartes flambées, beef Bourguignon or coq au vin, expertly prepared by a French chef who regularly whips up new dishes. Ta’ Kenuna Tower, Nadur (7905 5299, www.ta-kenuna.com)

Bunna Café Located on Rabat’s main road, this little café is hailed by many as making some of the best coffee in Gozo. You’ll also find a selection of freshly prepared sweets, sandwiches and delicious croissants. 38A, Republic Street, Rabat (2705 4215)

Captain Spriss With its bright blue façade and cosy interior, this little Italian café is ideal for a perfectly brewed coffee enjoyed with a delicious sweet treat. The menu includes a selection of food options, ranging from English breakfast to omelettes, burgers and sandwiches. 66, Main Gate Street, Rabat (2156 9112) FRENCH

Ta’ Frenc One of Gozo’s foremost fine-dining restaurants for many years, Ta’ Frenc offers an experience beyond the ordinary. It is situated within a charming farmhouse overlooking Marsalforn valley, and boasts an exciting menu filled with vibrant flavours and textures, including well-sourced seafood, meats and traditional Mediterranean dishes with a twist. Ghajn Damma Street, Xaghra (2155 3888, www.tafrenc.mt)

MALTESE

Kampnari Bakery Tucked away in a quiet alley in the heart of Rabat, a stone’s throw away from the charming St George’s Square, Kampnari Bakery is known for its simple yet delicious fare, particularly the pizzas and traditional Gozitan ftira (a pizzalike dish), which are highly sought after on the island. 14, Alley 1, Mons G Farrugia Street, Rabat (7944 9342)

Maxokk For many years, this small, family-run bakery has delighted foodies with its signature Gozitan ftira, which bears similarities to a pizza, but has unique characteristics of its own. Located in a side street in the village of Nadur, it’s a little off the beaten track, but anyone you ask for directions will point you right to it. St James Street, Nadur (2155 0014, www.maxokkbakery.com)

Mekren Bakery Also a family-run bakery in Nadur, Mekren Bakery has made a name for itself for its speciality local ftira – bursting with local ingredients such as sheep’s cheese, potato and sausage – as well as pizzas and qassatat (closed pies filled with ricotta or other stuffing), which make for popular takeaway snacks if you’re heading to the beach nearby. Hanaq Street, Nadur (2155 2342)

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Casa Vostra

Neolitik Kitchen & Lounge

MEDITERRANEAN

Al Sale Located in the main square of Xaghra, Al Sale is a great dining spot with a scrumptious Mediterranean menu. Fish is the speciality, with a dedicated crudi e carpacci section that includes fresh oysters, tartare of the day and the crudo misto – a mouth-watering plate of marinated, raw fish to share.

Ic-Cima This rooftop restaurant in Xlendi is well-known for its fresh fish dishes, but offers a tantalising menu that includes artisanal pasta, meat and poultry, as well as rabbit cooked the traditional way, and an array of home-made desserts. Topping it all off is the incredible view of Xlendi Bay that’s hard to beat. St Simon Street, Xlendi (2155 8407, www.cimarestaurant.com)

32, Victory Square, Xaghra (2720 0509)

Beppe’s Restaurant Meat is the speciality at Beppe’s Restaurant. Its open kitchen and wood-burning grill, along with a display of fresh and aged meat cuts, make it a popular choice for a delicious dinner in a casual atmosphere that emphasises quality, flavour and presentation. You can choose to dine in the square in the warmer months. St Margaret Square, Sannat (2750 0567)

Brookies A beautifully refurbished, 300-year-old farmhouse is the home of Brookies, a dual concept restaurant that offers a Mediterranean and grill menu (along with a wine cellar) on its ground floor, and a pizzeria on its rooftop. Both areas offer indoor and open-air seating options with stunning views of the Cittadella. 1, 2, Wied Sara Street, Rabat (2155 0924, www.brookiesgozo.com)

Casa Vostra Casa Vostra brings authentic Italian cuisine to the heart of Gozo. The pizzas are a must-try, bursting with flavours and ingredients originating from Italy, including pistachio pesto, burrata, speck, fresh sausage and wild Neapolitan broccoli. A selection of pasta dishes and main courses is also available. 62, Republic Street, Rabat (2156 6161) 188 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S

Maldonado Bistro Creative food pairings and exquisite flavour are the standard at Maldonado Bistro, where fresh and seasonal produce is maximised to present guests with memorable, colourful dishes, such as the octopus and nduja salad, and the line-caught calamari served in a fish bisque. 18, Mons Lwigi Vella Street, Rabat (2701 9270, www.maldonado.com.mt)

Mojo’s Located along the main street heading into the capital, Mojo’s is a firm favourite for its hearty and healthy breakfast, snack and lunch options, ranging from sweet and savoury pancakes to wholesome salads, wraps, burgers and delicious, home-made cakes. Vegan foodies are also well catered for. Fortunato Mizzi Street, Rabat (2156 9596)

Neolitik Kitchen & Lounge With a mission to deliver an affordable, fine-dining experience to its patrons, Neolitik, which draws on the island’s ancient history for its carefully curated menu, presents beautiful dishes using fresh, local produce. Open for lunch and dinner, this sophisticated eatery is a real treat in the heart of Gozo. 14, Market Street, Rabat (2156 4092, www.neolitik.kitchen)

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Peppina

Ristorante Arzella

Oleander Restaurant Having recently celebrated a decade in business, Oleander Restaurant is a welcoming eatery with a loyal following, located within Xaghra’s pretty village square. The menu offers a balanced mix of Mediterranean and Maltese dishes, including stewed rabbit, fresh fish, pasta, as well as meat dishes. 10, Victory Square, Xaghra (7755 7230)

Osteria Scottadito This charming, Italian osteria with outdoor tables in the heart of Nadur boasts a typical cucina Romagnola. The delectable menu includes a selection of home-made fresh pasta dishes, good-quality meat and fresh fish options, as well as mouth-watering desserts – we recommend the Nutellamisu’, a delicious, chocolatey twist on an Italian classic. 20, Madre Gemma Camilleri Street, Nadur (2733 3000, www.osteriascottadito.com)

Peppina With its farm-to-table dining concept, Peppina restaurant offers a fresh dining experience in Gozo, in bright and welcoming surroundings. The menu includes tantalising small plates for sharing, such as the rabbit croquettes with spring pea purée, as well as pasta, risotto and main dishes featuring meat, fish and plant-based options. San Gwann Battista Square, Xewkija (7983 0574)

Qbajjar Bar & Restaurant This sought-after restaurant in the outskirts of the seaside village of Marsalforn combines great food and service with fantastic views and a pleasant atmosphere. Grab a table outdoors if possible, and indulge in a menu inspired by Maltese and Mediterranean cuisines that includes fresh

pasta dishes, a variety of meat and fresh fish options, as well as pizzas and home-made desserts. 23, Xwejni Road, Marsalforn (2155 1124, www.qbajjarrestaurant.com)

Rew Rew At first sight, this understated eatery might easily pass as a snack bar, but it offers a wonderful selection of delicious fresh fish and seafood such as calamari, prawns and rockfish, depending on the catch of the day. With its idyllic location facing Mgarr ix-Xini beach, it’s a perfect spot for a light lunch. Mgarr ix-Xini (7985 4007)

Ristorante Arzella With a humble beginning that goes back to 1986, the family-run Ristorante Arzella is a respected choice for topquality fish and seafood in Gozo, served within a beautiful, recently renovated indoor-outdoor setting against the backdrop of the Mediterranean Sea. With its fresh and varied menu, foodies will feel at home here. Ghar Qawqla Street, Marsalforn (2155 4662, www.ristorantearzella.com)

Sicilia Bella Savour the joys of Sicilian cuisine at this popular portside eatery, which makes for a perfect spot for a relaxed lunch or an evening meal. Using top-quality, fresh ingredients, Sicilia Bella is particularly known for its excellent fish and seafood dishes, but meat eaters will certainly not be disappointed. Manuel De Vilhena Street, Mgarr (2156 3588)

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Tmun Mgarr

Gleneagles Bar

Ta’ Philip For an authentic Gozitan dining experience, Ta’ Philip is a reliable option. This eatery uses top local and seasonal ingredients – including Xwejni sea salt – as well as traditional cooking methods and a wood-burning oven to deliver quality dishes in a smart setting, complemented by a well-stocked wine cellar. 29, St Anthony Street, Ghajnsielem (7900 1965, www.taphiliprestaurant.com)

Ta’ Tona A stone’s throw away from the Gozo ferry terminal, this family-run restaurant is highly sought-after for its hearty food, intimate atmosphere and great service. The classically Mediterranean menu includes fresh, seasonal seafood and fish, as well as meat and poultry dishes, and fantastic pasta options, accompanied by a well-curated wine list. Manoel De Vilhena Street, Mgarr (2156 1967)

Tal-Furnar Bar & Restaurant A meal at Tal-Furnar is just like setting foot inside your grandmother’s kitchen. The ambience is homely, the service is friendly, and the portions are abundant. The menu offers a mix of traditional and popular Mediterranean dishes, but we recommend the sought-after ftira cooked in a wood-burning stone oven for a true taste of Gozo. 136, Gnien Xibla Street, Xaghra (7955 6372)

meat, the food is simply sublime, and the wine list equally impressive. Martinu Garces Street, Mgarr (2156 6276, www.tmunrestaurant.com) BARS

73 In The Square 73 In The Square situated in the heart of the village of Xaghra offers a dizzying selection of over 70 gins, as well as a range of tonics, draft local and international beers, and Moak Italian coffee. Open daily, it’s a perfect spot for a morning espresso and evening tipple. 73, Victory Square, Xaghra (7788 9966)

Gleneagles Bar This typical fisherman’s haunt is an iconic, old-fashioned bar for value drinks in a laidback atmosphere. With its fishing-inspired décor and friendly staff – as well as unparalleled views of Mgarr Harbour – it’s a popular hangout for locals and passers-by. 10, Victory Street, Mgarr (2155 6543)

Grapes Wine Bar With its strategic location in the charming square in front of St George’s Basilica in Rabat, Grapes Wine Bar is a lovely choice for a casual, evening drink. You’ll find a vast selection of locally produced craft beers and wine, as well as a varied menu to whet your appetite. St George’s Square, Rabat (7947 3536)

Tmun Mgarr Continuing his family’s legacy, chef Paul Buttigieg brings skill and creativity in droves to the menu at Tmun Mgarr, which is based entirely on what local suppliers have to offer. Whether it’s fresh fish, seafood or mouth-watering

Horatio’s Upper Deck This cosy bar, situated right near the ferry landing in Mgarr, is always bustling with activity. It offers a broad selection of drinks and food items including local platters, and regularly hosts live DJs and bands on its open-air terrace. 9, Manoel De Vilhena Street, Mgarr (2156 6669)

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Duke Boutique Hotel

Cesca Boutique Hotel Set within a 350-year-old, converted farmhouse, this lovely boutique hotel boasts an incredible location at the edge of Xlendi Valley. All of the 18, beautifully decorated rooms and suites exude Mediterranean hospitality and charm, and enjoy breath-taking views from the balconies that overlook the stunning valley below. Xlendi Valley, Xlendi (2155 1768, www.cesca.com.mt)

Cornucopia Hotel This four-star hotel, housed within a centuries-old, traditional farmhouse, offers an intimate lodging experience in a rustic ambience. The Cornucopia has various accommodation options, including 48 rooms within the hotel and two complexes of bungalows right across the road. 10, Gnien Imrik Street, Xaghra (2155 6486, www.vjborg.com/cornucopia-hotel)

D Golden Valley Boutique & Breakfast This bed and breakfast guest house in Xaghra enjoys an excellent location, just 1.3km from Ramla Bay and 2.6km from Xwejni Bay. It offers all the standard comforts of a modern B&B, including free Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, four outdoor swimming pools and two shared lounges. 58A, Marsalforn Street, Xaghra (9995 9028, www.dgoldenvalley.com)

Duke Boutique Hotel Centrally located on the 4th and 5th floors of The Duke Complex in the capital, this boutique hotel has 30 modern and well-equipped rooms and suites, many of which enjoy stunning views of the Citadel or the nearby Villa Rundle Gardens, and offer several facilities, including a laptop safe and free, high-speed Wi-Fi. Republic Street, Rabat (2779 9100, www.thedukehotelgozo.com)

Hotel Ta’ Cenc & Spa

Grand Hotel With a fantastic location overlooking Mgarr Harbour and the Mediterranean Sea beyond, you’ll be treated to spectacular views and sunsets from most of the 93 rooms at this four-star hotel. It also offers a range of facilities including the Elemis Spa, swimming pools, as well as casual and smart dining options. Mgarr Harbour (2216 1000 www.grandhotelmalta.com)

Hotel Calypso Located within the fishing harbour of Marsalforn, Hotel Calypso is a comfortable seaside resort comprising 100 attractive rooms, most of which enjoy lovely sea views. You’ll find a range of amenities available, including wellness services, a selection of dining options, a bar, a swimming pool and deck. Marsalforn Bay (2156 2000, www.hotelcalypsogozo.com)

Hotel Ta’ Cenc & Spa The five-star Hotel Ta’ Cenc & Spa is a firm favourite among locals and visitors alike. Built on an extensive and luxurious estate on Gozo’s highest point, this secluded hotel offers 74 rooms that emphasise tranquillity, two outdoor swimming pools, a lagoon-style pool within the spa, and the celebrated Il-Kantra Lido that enjoys unparalleled sea views. Cenc Street, Sannat (2219 1000, www.vjborg.com/ta-cenc-hotel-spa) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 193

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Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz Quaint Boutique Hotel

Il-Logga Boutique Hotel & Restaurant This charming, family-run boutique hotel in Xaghra provides guests with a truly Mediterranean experience. It has 12 spacious and well-equipped rooms with balconies or terraces, a rooftop swimming pool with village views, and an onsite restaurant that offers scrumptious local and international cuisines. Church Street, Xaghra (2155 1210, www.illogga.com)

Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz Set amidst a large swathe of semi-tropical gardens, the Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz is a five-star hideaway resort that offers excellent levels of service, luxury and comfort. The 137 rustic rooms and suites are elegant and spacious, and among its top-rated facilities are the inhouse spa, extensive pools and distinctive dining options.

Murella Living This unique accommodation celebrates all things Gozo – its 24 rooms are individually designed in themes inspired by local sights and traditional Maltese motifs, such as prickly pear branches, and equipped with a host of modern amenities, including coffee-making facilities and a mini fridge. 19, Bakery Street, Marsalforn (2155 0340, www.murellaliving.com)

Quaint Boutique Hotel With its village core location, Quaint Boutique Hotel offers a truly immersive and authentic village life experience. All 12 rooms feature minimalist décor, providing modern lodging in a traditional setting. Visit the website for other Quaint Hotels locations and eateries.

Ir-Rokon Street, San Lawrenz (2211 0000, www.kempinski.com/gozo)

13th December Street, Nadur (2210 8500, www.quainthotelsgozo.com)

Maria Giovanna Guesthouse

Villa Dei Venti

Experience Gozitan hospitality at this authentic guesthouse situated just a stone’s throw away from the Marsalforn promenade. Its 15 air-conditioned bedrooms are furnished with rustic, iron beds and antique furniture, and home-made continental breakfast includes several local specialities.

Surrounded by rugged countryside, Villa Dei Venti, built in an authentic Gozitan farmhouse style, offers a tranquil lodging option. Set atop a cliff in Qala, its 10, wellequipped rooms exude a laidback charm, and ensure that guests are left wanting for nothing. An outdoor pool and deck area is also available to guests.

41, Rabat Road, Marsalforn (2155 3630, www.tamariagozo.com)

Grunju Street, Qala (2745 2168, www.villadeiventi.com)

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