British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter 2021

JOURNAL BRITISH TRAVEL

explore the british isles

SUSTAINABLE GOURMET FOOD

MOUNTAINS AND PINES

CLEAN CRISP AIR AND BREATHTAKING VIEWS

VIBRANT CITIES

FROM BOAT-LINED CANALS TO GRAND PALACES

PLUS : SKIING IN THE HIGHLANDS, ENGLISH WHISKY, VINEYARDS OF THE SURREY HILLS AND MUCH MORE

THE MICHELIN GREEN STAR

CONTRIBUTIONS

JOURNAL BRITISH TRAVEL

EDITORS

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding

CONTRIBUTORS

Chantal Borciani, Sophie Farrah, Adrian Mourby, Karyn Noble, Emma O’Reilly, Lydia Paleschi, Adrienne Wyper

WITH COMPLEXITIES around overseas travel still hanging in the air and globetrotters continuing to place their plans to visit more exotic far-flung destinations on hold for something closer to home, much of the British Isles has experienced its busiest summer on record. For a relatively small island full of adventure-seekers exploring our countryside and coastline, some hotels, restaurants and landmarks, (especially those in popular tourist spots) have struggled to cope. Managing numbers in a staycation boom can be hard enough; add the difficulties of staying COVID-safe while abiding by restrictions, and favoured honeypots like Cornwall have even had to resort to urging tourists to ‘stay away’.

If you have been lucky enough to travel to some of these destinations this year, you will know that booking in advance now comes as standard. If you want to stay overnight, be seated in a restaurant, or visit an attraction it's mandatory – even breakfast slots and swim times must be pre-planned. But what about our cities and other beauty spots, the ones that can still cope with visitors?

London, for example – why not avoid the crowds and queues on a city break to our capital or one of our other vibrant cities, p78?

Catch a performance at Stratford-upon-Avon, p40, head to the breathtaking mountains of Scotland, p20, or visit its capital city, Edinburgh for a taste of its flourishing new food scene, p92.

Food and drink is a theme throughout this issue, from our interview with Tom Kerridge, p26, to the prestigious new accolade for planet-conscious cooking, p32, the rise of English Whisky, p70, and new premium wine region, the Vineyards of the Surrey Hills, p16.

I have personally traded Devon’s beaches for culture and picturesque waterways, staying in the heart of its historic city, Exeter, p86, and I enjoyed a countryside weekender at Goodwood, ‘England’s greatest sporting estate’, p64.

Together with our regular Travel News, p9, and cosy Autumn Stays, p47, I hope this issue helps you plan with confidence, discovering less busy but equally charming places to visit.

CONTENTS

AUTUMN/WINTER 2021 | ISSUE 10

16

JOTTINGS

COMPETITION

23 WIN A HOLIDAY TO CORNWALL STAYING IN A LUXURY WATERSIDE TOWNHOUSE...

Don’t miss your chance to win a luxury three-night stay, courtesy of Cornish Gems, to Cornwall’s newest and most desirable waterside destination. North Quay Beach House is set within the striking scenery of the Hayle estuary, with World Heritage Status, a beautiful sandy beach and picturesque harbour, plus three more miles of golden sands stretching from Hayle Towans to Godrevy and the striking lighthouse.

09 TRAVEL NEWS

Reignite your passion for travel this autumn with our selection of what's new from hotels, restaurants, and visitor attractions across the British Isles

47 10 OF THE BEST AUTUMN STAYS

We all want somewhere gorgeous to stay – and these places are certainly that – but they also have a little extra to add to the holiday vibe

63 STYLE EDITS

Travel souvenirs and gifts lovingly made for the discerning traveller

98 FOR YOUR JOURNEY Bookshelf and crossword

FEATURES

16 GRAPE MINDS THINK ALIKE

Meet the five passionate producers who have come together to form a new premium wine region: the Vineyards of the Surrey Hills

20

SKIING IN THE HIGHLANDS

Clean crisp air, breathtaking views of peaks and pines, miles of pure white snow –and you don’t have to leave the UK

26 MY CULINARY JOURNEY TOM KERRIDGE

Owner of the first pub to win two Michelin stars, Tom Kerridge reflects on his stratospheric success and his 2021 new launch

70

ENGLISH WHISKY

Discover the English distillers showing they can compete with Scotland's most famous export

EDITOR LOVES DESTINATIONS

Engineered from lightweight leather, Hoka's hiking shoes support feet without the bulk of a boot; suitable for adventures in the great outdoors – Women’s Anacapa Mid GTX, priced £150 hokaoneone.eu

Live your best life with a Cosmo Communicator clamshell Android smartphone – a nostalgic piece of tech with a full physical keyboard, combining the productivity of a laptop with the functionality of a modern smartphone. Perfect for frequent on-the-go travel lovers, priced £601 planetcom.co.uk

40

WALKING TOUR OF STRATFORD-UPON-AVON

Visit Stratford-upon-Avon to catch a performance of one of Shakespeare’s plays or take a boat on the river

56

BURGH ISLAND HOTEL

In search of an idyllic private island with magical charm, blessed with exotic plants, translucent seas and endless amounts of golden sand? Spend your days exploring ruined castles, discovering shipwreck tales

64

48 HOURS AT THE GOODWOOD ESTATE

With acres of nature walks, sustainable farming, new wellness experiences, spa, and divine mouth-watering home-grown food, a stay at the Goodwood Hotel has more delights besides its renowned vintage cars, planes and worldfamous annual festivals

78

VIBRANT CITIES TO VISIT THIS AUTUMN

This is the ideal time to visit one of Britain's great cities. The summer crowds have dispersed and there’s always a cute café, a diverting shop or a fascinating museum beckoning you in, should the weather turn

8648 HOURS IN EXETER

Thought holidays to Devon were mostly about seafood and beaches? Think again… it’s time to leave behind the beach towels and flip flops and prepare for a cultural city-break like no other. Exeter might be small, but it is perfectly formed, with world-class museums, excellent food, beautiful new hotels, historic streets, and picturesque waterways

COMPETITION

91 WIN A FOODIE BREAK TO EXETER, INCLUDING LUNCH OR DINNER AT HARRY'S, AND ROCKFISH RESTAURANTS

Indulge yourself at some of Exeter’s most renowned restaurants, with this fantastic two-night foodie break staying at the Jury's Inn. Experience Exeter’s 2,000 years of history, its beautiful quayside, and top eateries serving the best of Devon’s food and drink.

92

EDINBURGH’S NEW FOOD AND DRINK EXPERIENCES

Scotland’s capital has come to life after months of pandemic hibernation, and the delicious news for visitors is that there are some brand new dining and drinking establishments to welcome them

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TRAVEL NEWS

Reignite your passion for travel this autumn with our selection of what's new from hotels, restaurants and visitor attractions across the British Isles

SOMERSET

The Newt, Beezantium

You can now see the world from a bee's-eye view at the brand new Beezantium at The Newt – a first-ofits-kind experience for the UK. Watch the colonies at work, smell the aroma of the hive, hear their contented hum and see honey produced in real time. Beezantium has been designed to highlight the importance of bees and their contribution to the planet. Within its giant honeycomb walls are interesting facts and literature about bees from all over the world, along with flower pressings showing the types of honey produced from specific plants on the estate. Why not take the opportunity for a Bee Safari – a private walking tour of the woodland hives, providing more insight into The Newt’s own beekeeping practices. ◆ à thenewtinsomerset.com

SCOTLAND

Highland Kings Ultra, Scotland’s west coast

The world’s most luxurious and exclusive ultrarun is about to launch in Scotland – an opportunity to join the first group of 40 athletes from around the world to tackle 120 miles of Scotland’s spectacular West Coast wilderness. Included in the programme, which costs £15,499 to enter, is lavish accommodation, speedboat transfers and seven months of personal mentoring. After a gruelling running challenge, which includes an ascent of 10,000 feet from Glencoe to the Isle of Arran across four days, you're treated to the finest in extravagant aftercare, including treatments from on-site masseurs, as well as a chance to enjoy relaxation space in an athletes’ lounge and award-winning cuisine. Named after Scottish kings Kenneth McAlpin, Alexander III and Robert the Bruce who helped to shape the region, the event will culminate with a gala dinner hosted by legendary explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes. ◆ à highland-kings.com

The White Garden, Kensington

Not only did the Queen’s Buckingham Palace Gardens open to visitors for the first time in history this summer, Kensington Palace gardeners transformed The Sunken Garden into The White Garden in memory of Diana, Princess of Wales. During her time at Kensington Palace Diana was particularly fond of The Sunken Garden. The unveiling of the new Princess Diana Statue by Prince William and Prince Harry took place on 1 July, the day which would have been Princess Diana’s 60th birthday. The statue can be viewed from the Cradle Walk. ◆ à hrp.org.uk

The Footman Mayfair

One of the oldest pubs in London, The Footman Mayfair has been totally redesigned following a six-figure investment. The elegant and stylish refurbishment has modernised the popular pub and restaurant, while keeping its original charm. The Footman has been in place since 1749 –originally called The Running Horse, it was frequented by the footmen who were in service to the households of Mayfair. They would run ahead of their master’s coaches, paying any tolls in advance and clearing a safe passage ahead. As the fashion for footmen dwindled, one bought the pub and named it after himself. Often the source of the best gossip, the pub soon became well known. ◆ à thefootmanmayfair.com

Don't miss

Art Pass Unbooked, launched by Art Fund

This new smart tool brings together hundreds of smaller museums and galleries in one place, allowing culture lovers to find what is nearby, and book there and then, avoiding the queues at the bigger institutions. à unbooked.artfund.org

LONDON

LONDON

AIRE Ancient Baths, Covent Garden

Feeling the need to disconnect? Then head to London's most exciting new thermal baths spa, complete with an ice pool, cold pool, warm pool, hot pool, salt-water flotarium, and various treatments – stay overnight in Covent Garden's new luxury lifestyle hotel, Middle Eight. à beaire.com / middleeight.com

CAMBRIDGE

The Fellows House

Just a stone’s throw from the River Cam in the heart of the historic city of Cambridge, The Fellows House is the perfect base to explore Cambridge’s famous colleges, the Bridge of Sighs, the University of Cambridge museums and Botanic Gardens. The brand new 131room apartment-style hotel features unique pieces of artwork and sculptures, all designed locally in Cambridge. The room types are all named after people associated with the city and notable Cambridge fellows, such as Kipling, Newton, Gormley and Attenborough, and don't miss the signature restaurant, The Folio (pictured) serving plant-based dishes and British comfort classics. ◆ à thefellowshouse.com

HIGHLAND PERTHSHIRE

Lapwing and Curlew

A little-known piece of the Scottish landscape has opened up as a holiday destination for the first time, with the arrival of two exquisite shepherd's huts on the Atholl Estates in Highland Perthshire. Sitting on a stunning spot in the Tulliemet Valley, the shepherd's huts (named Lapwing and Curlew) command breathtaking views across Strathtay and are surrounded by an abundance of wildlife, from osprey, nesting eagles and deer to newly arrived resident beavers in the Tulliemet River. Prices from £360. ◆ à atholl-estates.co.uk

Ugly Butterfly flies to Carbis Bay

Ugly Butterfly, which is chef Adam Handling’s most sustainable brand of restaurants, has launched at the luxurious Carbis Bay Estate. The opening followed the hotel playing host to the 2021 G7 Summit, where Adam and his team created sustainability-focused dishes for the leaders, and the whole summit, to enjoy. à uglybutterfly.co.uk

YORKSHIRE AND CHESHIRE

New Beauty Spots

The Yorkshire Wolds and the Cheshire Sandstone Ridge (pictured right) are being considered by Natural England as the newest members of our country's designated Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB). There are 34 Areas AONBs currently in England and each one is protected by law so that its natural beauty is conserved and enhanced. This new status for Yorkshire Wolds and Cheshire Sandstone Ridge could further safeguard the region's tranquil landscapes, boost nature, and help more people enjoy the rolling hills, ancient woodland, archaeology, wildlife, and culture. ◆

à gov.uk/natural-england

You might also enjoy

Heritage Open Days

England's largest festival of history and culture returns this September, 10–19. Each year, thousands of volunteers organise events to give people the chance to see hidden places and try new experiences for free – online and offline. Heritage Open Days is about providing people with the opportunity to see places and spaces they don't usually get access to. The theme for this year is Edible England – so expect behind-the-scenes tours and entertaining tastings. With more and more of us learning to love our local areas during lockdown, these outdoor, usually off-grid hidden gems could be just what we all need. ◆

à heritageopendays.org.uk

ENGLAND

CORNWALL

Chelsea History Festival 17 – 26 September 2021

The Chelsea History Festival is returning for an action-packed third year this September, building on the success of previous years that saw almost 30,000 people involved – both physically and virtually. Taking place in the heart of London in partnership with three notable institutions – the National Army Museum, Royal Hospital Chelsea and the Chelsea Physic Garden – this year’s diverse festival will host over 70 exciting physical and virtual events. There are more than 15 headline speakers, including Damien Lewis, Olivette Otele and Jonathan Dimbleby, and the festival features a number of exclusive pre-publication launches. This year’s dynamic programme of events covers a range of themes, delving into the worlds of military and art history, and platforming new perspectives on social and natural history. Brand new for this year’s festival, the History Village in the heart of London will take visitors back through time to learn first-hand what life was like in Roman London during World War I. This immersive outdoor event brings history to the forefront with living historians, serving military units and local cultural organisations. Visitors also have the opportunity to become knights in shining armour for the day, clashing blades at the Sword School, alongside a range of other family-friendly activities. ◆

à chelseahistoryfestival.com

LONDON

GRAPE MINDS THINK ALIKE

Move over Champagne – there’s a new premium wine region in town. We encounter acres of picturesque vines, beautiful views and award-winning wines when we meet the five passionate producers who have come together to form Vineyards of the Surrey Hills

Words | Sophie Farrah

WHEN YOU THINK of famous wine regions, perhaps the South of France springs to mind, or California’s Napa Valley, but how about the Surrey Hills?

Just 20 miles south of London, sandwiched between Kent, Sussex and Hampshire, lies a cluster of five beautiful vineyards, each producing internationally award-winning wines in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB). Sounds pretty good, doesn’t it?

Together, they’ve joined forces to create Vineyards of the Surrey Hills (VoSH) – a new, world-class wine tourism destination that celebrates the excellence of the wine being produced there. Cultivated on limestone hills that share the same geological stratum as the Champagne region, each vineyard is located along the rolling North Downs Way; its south-facing slopes, chalky soil and microclimate providing optimum conditions for wine production.

As a newly formed wine region, these family-run vineyards are now working closely together to create and deliver memorable visitor experiences, while also sharing knowledge, resources, and above all, a passion for creating the best possible wine. There are tours and tastings aplenty, and vineyard hopping is positively encouraged, but despite their proximity, each one has something very different to offer, as we discovered… Our first stop was Albury; this small, beautiful vineyard

is located just outside Guildford and is where Nick Wenman fulfilled his lifelong dream of planting vines in 2009, after retiring from the IT industry. Today, he runs the business with his daughter Lucy and vineyard managers Dominic and Alex.

“Everyone has historically thought of Sussex and Kent as key wine-growing regions, but we want to put the Surrey Hills on the map,” enthuses Lucy, as she showed us around their 12-acre plot.

Albury is the only organic vineyard in the Surrey Hills, and one of very few in the UK. It produces a range of delicious, award-winning sparkling wines made from traditional Champagne variety grapes, but it’s their Silent Pool Rosé that has made the biggest splash, after it was chosen to be served on the royal barge for the Queen’s Jubilee in 2012. Now it sells out every year. Here, visitors can enjoy a variety of tours and tastings, or just pop in for a glass (or bottle), enjoyed while overlooking the vines. There are also regular events featuring live music and local food.

Our next stop, less than a 10-minute drive away, was High Clandon – the smallest vineyard of the Surrey Hills. Here, South African owner Sibylla Tindale and her husband Bruce tend to each vine by hand in their small, but perfectly formed, one-acre vineyard.

“VoSH celebrates the beauty of the Surrey Hills AONB, and the fact that the chalky terroir of these

glorious rolling downs can produce such exquisite wines,” enthused Sibylla, as she showed us round her stunning gardens, with their equally stunning views.

“As there are only five vineyards in this special area, it made abundant sense to create a delicious wine region to attract both tourists and wine aficionados. Also, having more than one lovely vineyard to visit is a wonderful attraction!”

The offering at High Clandon is aged-matured vintage fizz only; each release has won a staggering array of awards and sells out every year. Visits to the vineyard are by appointment only, while monthly tours and tastings can be pre-booked.

Our next destination was Denbies, which was until recently the largest single-estate vineyard in the UK with a whopping 265 acres ‘under vine’. Established in 1986, it encompasses a large winery, hotel, restaurant, shops and various visitor experiences, as well as seven miles of public footpaths, open to all. It produces a wide range of awardwinning still and sparkling wines, some of which we were lucky enough to try in one of the vineyard’s new, heated, luxury cabanas, overlooking acres of beautiful vines.

“Regional clusters of vineyards are forming all over the UK, so the collaboration of our awardwinning vineyards, located in an AONB, presented a significant opportunity,” explains Denbies’ COO, Jeannette Simpson.

“We are all completely different in size, production and visitor offering, and so together we can provide a large selection of tours and experiences that really complement each other.”

Speaking of which – after our wine tasting, we hopped aboard the vineyard’s brilliant outdoor train tour, which trundled through the vines to the top of the estate, where we could enjoy the stunning views of Box Hill with a glass of Denbies’ delicious sparkling in hand.

Celebrating its 10th anniversary this year is

Greyfriars, our next destination, which Mike and Hilary Wagstaff took over in 2010 with the aim of expanding the original vineyard planted there in 1989; they now have a total of 40 acres under vine, on two neighbouring sites. Here, each element of the wine-production process takes place on-site; what Mike describes as ‘grape to glass’. Where smaller vineyards take their grapes to external wineries for production, Greyfriars has built its very own, as well as a large storage cave in the chalk slopes. Their wines have won several international awards, and the vineyard hosts regular tours, tastings and foodie events. This year, it also unveiled an impressive new tasting room.

“Located just a stone’s throw from London, we grow amazing and varied wine, with beautiful vineyards and brilliant people. We want to encourage visitors to come and experience everything that we have to offer – not just the wine,” enthuses Mike.

Our fifth and final stop was Chilworth Manor, an astoundingly beautiful historic house and estate owned by Graham and Mia Wrigley. The couple planted vines in 2013, making it the newest of the Surrey Hills vineyards. Their 10-acre plot produces fruit for an incredibly popular English rosé and, for the first time this year, a hotly anticipated sparkling wine. Currently, Chilworth Manor is the only Surrey Hills vineyard not regularly open to the public, but it hosts several annual charity events that are open to all, and a new, permanent tasting barn is planned for next year.

“I think that the Vineyards of the Surrey Hills will become known as an umbrella that represents quality – we’re all so passionate about what we do, and we’re all family businesses too,” Graham explains.

“Already it’s fast becoming a destination to visit two or three vineyards in a day. I really believe that we could be the Napa Valley of the UK. When we started out, we didn’t realise there would be this wine tourism element but there is such a demand for it, which is great, and most of all – it’s fun.” We’ll drink to that

“Having more than one lovely vineyard to visit is a wonderful attraction!”

WHERE TO STAY NEARBY

The Merry Harriers

This charming traditional village inn, complete with friendly resident llamas, offers good food and four comfortable and serene bedrooms with countryside views. In its pretty gardens there are a further six bedrooms, and five luxurious shepherd's huts. Their ‘Taste of Surrey’ package includes a tour at Albury Vineyard as well as a bottle of their highly coveted Silent Pool Rosé. à merryharriers.com

Beaverbrook

Nestled in the heart of the Surrey Hills, Beaverbrook is a quintessential British country estate. There are 29 sumptuous, beautifully designed rooms to choose from, divided between the House and the Garden House, including three suites. There’s also an impressive architectdesigned spa, cinema, several stylish eateries and 470 acres of beautiful countryside to explore.

à beaverbrook.co.uk

Denbies Vineyard Hotel

If you’re looking to fully immerse yourself in Surrey’s beautiful vines then this is the place for you. Located on the wine estate itself, Denbies is home to one of the UK's very few vineyard hotels. There are 17 recently refurbished bedrooms here, with both spacious luxury suites and doubles with king-sized beds as standard, overlooking the vineyards and rolling hills beyond.

à denbies.co.uk

TOP BOTTLES

Chilworth Manor Brut Rosé 2018, £36.50

Released this year, the vineyard’s first fizz has been a huge success; it’s a delicate salmon pink in colour and bursting with creamy summer fruits, butterscotch and brioche. There are plans to release a sparkling white wine later this year too. à chilworthmanorvineyard.com

High Clandon Euphoria Cuvée

2016 Prestige Vintage Brut, £39

The word ‘euphoria’ is used to describe intense feelings of happiness, and that’s exactly how you’ll feel after a glass or two of this delicious, award-winning fizz. Resulting from a late harvest with five years' lees ageing, it tastes of crisp citrus and buttery brioche, with rich peach and alluring florals. à highclandon.co.uk

Albury Estate Classic Cuvée, £32.95

This award-winning, certified organic English sparkling wine is a classic cuvée of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. Fresh and lively, the ripe acidity is complemented by a subtle sweetness.

à alburyvineyard.com

Denbies Surrey Gold, £9.75

This is Denbies’ most popular wine, and the first they ever produced. A blend of Müller-Thurgau, Ortega and Bacchus, it’s quite Germanic in style –off dry, but fresh, fruity and aromatic. à denbies.co.uk

Greyfriars NV Sparkling Rosé, £19.50

This award-winning, delicious pink fizz is a delicate pale colour, with aromas of summer berries and a fresh fruity palate. A perfect aperitif, it is incredibly good value too.

à greyfriarsvineyard.co.uk

THE WHITE STUFF...

SKIING IN THE HIGHLANDS

Clean crisp air, breathtaking views of peaks and pines, miles of pure white snow – and you don’t have to leave the UK…

Words | Adrienne Wyper

IN RECENT YEARS, there have been around 250,000 ‘skier days’ a season in Scotland, so it’s a – deservedly – popular winter pastime. But if you’re not into skiing, or the snow is a no-show, high in the mountains is still a great place to be, with lots to do. Even in skiing-mad Switzerland, a third of winter visitors aren’t there to ski... The Scottish skiing season runs from December through to early April, although the snow conditions are usually best from January onward. Scotland has five ski resorts: Glenshee, the largest; Glencoe, the oldest, with the longest and steepest runs; Lecht, the quietest; Cairngorm Mountain Resort, the most popular; and Nevis Range Mountain Resort, near Britain’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis. All offer ski and snowboard tuition, in groups or solo, and you can hire all the kit you’ll need.

The wintry scenery is stunning, with lochs and forests at lower altitudes often unblanketed by snow, and for non-skiers (or when the weather isn’t being cooperative), there are lots of other no-snow activities within easy reach of wherever you’re based. The total length of all available ski runs, at over 83 miles, is lower than you’d find at many individual resorts in the Alps or North America, so there’s less variety, but for a short stay the Scottish slopes give foreign resorts a run for their money. Snow conditions can be unpredictable, so stay flexible, keep your eye on the snow situation and weather forecast ( visitscotland.com ), and perhaps be prepared to go at short notice.

Glenshee Ski Centre

The Glenshee Ski Centre resort is set in set in spectacular mountain scenery in Perthshire at the eastern end of the highest Cairngorm peaks.

The name Glenshee means ‘fairy glen’ and the area is sometimes called ‘The Three Glens’ as a nod to the massive ski area in France known as ‘Les Trois Vallées’. Access is via the A93, the UK’s highest public road.

Informal skiing started here in the 1930s, and today the UK’s biggest lift system extends across three valleys and four mountains – with a summit elevation of 3,504 feet. For beginners, access is easy, with extensive nursery slopes by the main car park. Intermediates have 36 runs to choose from, from the expansive pistes of the Thunderbowl and sheltered routes of Coire Fionn and Glas Maol to the bumps, jumps and natural half-pipe of Meall Odhar and the slalom course at Cairnwell. Experienced skiers should try the mogul-strewn Tiger black run.

For ski-free family fun, swoosh downhill on a sledge, or consider ‘bagging a Munro’. There are 24 ‘Munros’ –mountains over 3,000 feet – here, named after Sir Hugh Munro, who compiled the first list of such peaks, totalling 282, in 1891. ‘Munro bagging’ means walking up one of them. Several whisky distilleries are within easy reach, or

Pictured previous page: Skiing on the Glencoe Mountain range Pictured

from left:

Forest

an

in the Cairngorms National Park; on the way up at Glencoe Mountain Resort; The Cairngorm reindeer herd is Britain's only free-ranging herd of reindeer found in the Cairngorm mountains; A skier makes a jump from the lemming ridge into Coire Dubh, off piste at the Nevis Range Ski Centre

sample craft gins at Persie Distillery. Make your base in Braemar in the heart of the Cairngorms National Park, near Balmoral Castle, with two castles of its own, and the driving trail to see another 15. The town is home to the renowned annual Braemar Gathering, with pipe bands, Highland dancing and tossing of the caber. Accommodation ranges from cheery log cabins to a grand Victorian shooting lodge. Or for splendid self-catering seclusion, stay in Glenbeag Moutain Lodges: Scandi-style log cabins with outdoor hot tubs and saunas.

clockwise

Rothiemurchus

by Loch

Eilean

Glencoe Mountain Resort

Perhaps best known, at least to Scots, as the site of the 1692 massacre of MacDonald clan members by government forces they’d taken into their homes, the spectacular, brooding scenery of the Glencoe Valley, sculpted by an ancient volcano, has been seen on screen many times, in films including Braveheart, Harry Potter and Skyfall

It is Scotland’s oldest ski resort, with commercial skiing starting here in 1956, and also home to the country’s longest black run, Flypaper, at 2.6 miles, which is also the steepest. Its highest point is 3,635 feet, giving impressive views of Rannoch Moor and the sharply peaked Buachaille Etive Mor mountain.

Midway up the mountain there’s a natural bowl with a large plateau area, and the upper reaches have some superb runs, including the famous Flypaper. And for the kids there are igloo-building and snowman-building competitions for World Snow Day and Snow Fest.

Stay on-site in the snug tubular Microlodges, or in the village of Glencoe itself, 11 miles from the ski resort, beside Loch Leven, at the mouth of the valley, in charming lochside hotels and welcoming guesthouses.

Around the village are walks to suit all abilities, or spend a day in Fort William, on the shore of Loch Linnhe, known as the outdoor capital of the UK, with its sandy beaches, castles and distilleries. You could even scale the 4,413-foot Ben Nevis – and no matter what time of year you visit, and whether deep in the glen or high on the moor, Glencoe’s wildlife can be as spectacular as its mountains.

“No matter what time of year you visit, and whether deep in the glen or high on the moor, Glencoe’s wildlife can be as spectacular as its mountains. ”

Make memories aboard Britannia

Make memories aboard Britannia

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Please see website for opening times and prices royalyachtbritannia.co.uk

Cairngorm Mountain Resort

Situated in the heart of Cairngorm National Park, on the country’s sixth-highest mountain, the resort has 31 runs (13 green, 10 blue, six red, two black), accessed by 12 lifts, and two cafés – one café is the UK’s highest.

Views from the top, 4,0484 feet, are spectacular, with the peaks of the surrounding mountain range and Loch Morlich glistening below. The 1.2-mile funicular railway, the UK’s highest, runs from the base station to Ptarmigan, the top station at 3,599 feet. It has been closed since 2018 but is being repaired and set to reopen in winter 2022. Another record-holder is the UK’s highest red phone box, still fully operational.

Stay in and around the popular holiday resort of Aviemore, just 11 miles away, which plays host to the Scottish Freestyle Ski and Snowboard Championships every March, with everything from luxury hotels, B&Bs or cottages to rent or, for a more rural location, there are cosy wooden lodges at Badaguish Outdoor Centre in Glenmore, at the foot of the Cairngorms, surrounded by centuriesold pine forest.

Aviemore makes an excellent base for exploring the wild reaches of the Cairngorms National Park, especially for spotting some of the native wildlife, such as eagles, capercaillie and osprey. And how about mingling with Britain’s only free-ranging reindeer herd at the Cairngorm Reindeer Centre at nearby Glenmore? Treat yourself to a trip on the Strathspey Steam Railway on a heritage steam locomotive, with afternoon tea en route. Or travel here by train aboard the Caledonian Sleeper, the overnight service from London, which stops in Aviemore.

GET YOUR SKATES ON —

For more frozen fun, skating on seasonal ice rinks is a much-loved activity that’s now become part of the run-up to Christmas. The pandemic is still affecting future events; please check details before you go.

Somerset House, Strand, London

London’s most glamorous rink, set in the 18th-century courtyard of this working arts centre and exhibition space, open all day and into the evening.

à somersethouse.org.uk

Skate Manchester, Cathedral Gardens

Experience Manchester’s undercover outdoor ice rink, located in the heart of the city centre.

à skatemanchester.com

Royal Pavilion, Brighton

With the former royal pleasure palace as its impressive backdrop, this rink is powered by wind and solar energy.

à royalpavilionicerink.co.uk

Life Science Centre, Newcastle-upon-Tyne

Glide around this city-centre rink with the award-winning science centre as a backdrop.

à life.org.uk

Winter Wonderland, Cardiff

Instead of going round and round a rink, follow the ice walk in the shadow of Cardiff Castle.

à visitcardiff.com/discover/christmas

Pictured: Views from the Cairngorm Mountain Resort IMAGES © VISITSCOTLAND / PAUL TOMKINS / KENNY LAM

MY CULINARY JOURNEY...

TOM KERRIDGE

Owner of the first pub to win two Michelin stars, Tom Kerridge reflects on his stratospheric success and his 2021 new launch

Words | Chantal Borciani

THE RESTAURANT trade is not for the fainthearted – any business owner emerging from the last couple of years will attest to this – but Michelin chef Tom Kerridge has never been averse to seizing an opportunity and rolling the dice.

In 2005, Kerridge and his artist wife Beth bought a rundown pub in Marlow, Buckinghamshire, and invested every penny they had in the business. The gamble paid off, and then some – within 10 months The Hand & Flowers won its first Michelin star and it’s been one of Britain’s finest gastronomic flag bearers ever since. “It was a real case of just grabbing an opportunity and running with it. Working with your other half is amazing. Sometimes it’s very hard to know the boundaries between your work life and home life – it all becomes a bit of a melting pot – but you’re both driven to create something fantastic and exciting, and it’s amazing because you achieve things together as a team.”

In 2012, The Hand & Flowers won its second Michelin star, making it the first gastropub to receive two stars in Michelin history. “I think the second star was even bigger because we had constantly reinvested in the business, the company and the people. We got rooms on board (Kerridge has cottages and luxurious bedrooms dotted around the charming town of Marlow for rental) and we just tried to get better every day. We didn’t expect to win two stars. It’s such a monumental achievement for anyone to win two, but for us to do it in a pub and being the first pub to do it, was just mind-blowing. Every year when it maintains that level, it’s like winning it all over again.”

PUB GRUB

Tom says his cooking is honest with menu inspirations often taking one dish – even if intrinsically very simple – “and doing it the very best it can be done”. It’s a recipe that has worked wonders, with the Michelin guide inclusion for The Hand & Flowers reading: “Food is based around pub classics, but those classics are elevated to new heights and are among the best in the UK. The sourcing of ingredients is given due reverence and execution is skilful and confident, while the dishes themselves are characterised by rich, powerful flavours – and the presentation is first-rate. Desserts are a real highlight and you’ll always find a soufflé on the list.”

Pictured left to right: Kerridge’s grilled lobster and chips;Tom Kerridge cooking; Kerridge’s Bar & Grill, London

Of his ethos, Kerridge says: “A lot of people sometimes are intimidated by Michelin stars or Michelin-star experience, but we want people to enjoy it and love it. Of course, feel that there’s something very special there, but without them feeling that they’re on edge. For us it’s all about encompassing and embracing everybody.”

The success of The Hand & Flowers has led to some delectable offshoots. Tom now has two further pubs in Marlow where he lives with his family; The Coach which opened in 2014 and won a Michelin star in 2017, and The Butcher’s Tap – Kerridge’s traditional butchers’ shop that serves the highest quality meat prepared by expert butchers, which also

opened in 2017. “Marlow is home. It’s a beautiful place and so easy for heading in and out of London,” the chef says.

When it comes to new ventures, Kerridge has zoned in on venues of historical note. He opened his first London restaurant Kerridge’s Bar & Grill at the Corinthia Hotel in 2018 and then went on to open his Manchester restaurant The Bull & Bear in 2019 at the new Stock Exchange Hotel.

“Working with your other half is amazing – you’re both driven to create something fantastic and exciting, and it’s amazing because you achieve things together as a team.”

COOL BRITANNIA

Born and raised in Gloucestershire, it was a combination of luck and necessity that led him into the hospitality trade, aged 18. “I needed some money, so I went to wash up in a kitchen when I was 18, and I just fell in love with the industry. I fell for the energy – the excitement, the late nights, and the early mornings. After all the routine of school, there was something so exciting about it all. The nine to five, Monday to Friday was never going to have been for me.”

Kerridge went to culinary school in Cheltenham and worked in country houses and hotels across Gloucestershire as a junior chef before moving to London in his early 20s to work with the likes of Philip Britton, Gary Rhodes and Steven Bull.

“You can get influenced more by people who sometimes you don’t work with – like big names in the industry, great French chefs and fantastic people like Marco Pierre White; his White Heat cookery book has been amazing for many chefs my age. But I suppose one person in my career who stands out is Gary Rhodes. Having spent time working with Gary, the godfather of British cuisine, is special.”

Kerridge's food continues to be honest, true to its roots and more often than not a celebration of Britain, which makes his latest opening – Kerridge’s Fish & Chips in Harrods, in the historic Grade-II-listed Dining Hall – an even better fit.

Launched in summer 2021, the sociable, laidback food hall has booths and a bar, with a menu that includes freshly caught turbot, lobster, Rock oysters, Cornish squid, and Dublin Bay prawns, along with joyously British sides of pease pudding, and snacks of chip shop pickled onions, cockle ‘popcorn’ with malted

beer vinegar, Morecambe Bay shrimps and treacle bread. Kerridge adds: “It’s a massive celebration of British food in such a magical shop. The dishes include incredible lobster, oysters and freshly caught fish from some of the best suppliers in Britain and beyond. They are all cooked to perfection and served with sensational sides, such as the triple-cooked chips topped with an option of Matson curry sauce, Lobster Thermidor, Morecambe Bay Shrimps or Caviar – it’s an unbeatable combination.

“Everyone remembers trips to Harrods as a kid. I remember going with my grandparents and walking around with my mouth wide open thinking how magical it was – and how special to now be able to serve our food there.

We see it as a great place to represent Great Britain and the food that we do.”

“I fell for the energy – the excitement, the late nights, and the early mornings... the nine to five, Monday to Friday was never going to have been for me”

OFF MENU

The king of elevating British classics, Kerridge notes his fish-and-chip dishes as some of his favourites from across his menus: “Fish and chips appears on all of the restaurants at some point, in some style, so that’s something that represents us really well, I think.

There’s a smoked haddock omelette that’s on the starters at The Hand & Flowers that has been there pretty much from the beginning, which is another dish we are really proud of.”

Despite the challenging last 18 months, it’s buoying to see a chef still as enamoured with his kitchens and his craft. “It’s not a job, it’s a way of life and it’s what I fell in love with all those years ago. The energy, the chaotic hours, the enthusiasm.”

When he does take a break, he retreats to Cornwall, where best friend and top chef Paul Ainsworth has his famous restaurant No6, alongside Caffè Rojano, The Mariners Public House, Mahé Cookery School and Chef’s Table, with rooms at Ainsworth’s Padstow Townhouse. “He’s down in Padstow in Cornwall and Paul’s got rooms at the Padstow Townhouse and his restaurant No6 is just fantastic so we love going down there.”

Humble, down to earth and authentic – true of both the dishes and the chef – Kerridge has no plans for further named expansions and so continues to lead from the front and keep food at the core of all that he does.

Pictured clockwise from left: Bar at Kerridge's Bar & Grill, London; Kerridge's fish and chips; Kerridge's prawns and chips; Kerridge's haddock and chips; Entrance to Kerridge's Bar & Grill

GREEN GASTRONOMY

MEET MICHELIN’S NEW SUSTAINABLE STAR ...

The Michelin Green Star is a prestigious new accolade for planet-conscious cooking. Here, we unearth what it takes to achieve this ultimate award for sustainability and meet some of the restaurants that are proudly offering both gastronomic and environmental excellence

Words | Sophie Farrah

YOU MAY HAVE HEARD of the Michelin star, but how about its sustainable sister? Unveiled by the Michelin Guide in 2020, the Green Star is a new annual award that recognises exceptional restaurants that are operating in a truly sustainable manner; those combining culinary excellence with outstanding environmental efforts. In the 2021 edition of the Michelin Guide Great Britain and Ireland, just 23 restaurants received this new eco accolade.

“Many chefs have been creating their cuisine to the rhythm of nature and the planet's resources for years. By giving credit to some of the most committed ones, we hope to shape a positive and progressive momentum,” explains Gwendal Poullennec, International Director of the Michelin Guide

Restaurants can only qualify for this new, green-clover-leaf symbol if they have already been recognised by Michelin in some way, either in the form of a Star, Bib Gourmand or Plate, and there is absolutely no room for greenwashing; Michelin’s rigorous inspectors are looking for those who are at the very top of their game when it comes to operating in a sustainable way.

“Gourmets and foodies have become more challenging of their ways of consuming, trying to leverage the environmental impact of their actions and choices. We want to demonstrate that both gastronomic and eco-friendly excellence can go hand in hand,” says Gwendal.

On Cornwall’s Lizard Peninsula, New Yard Restaurant is housed in a converted stable building on the Trelowarren Estate. It offers a

leisurely seven-course set menu that is guided by the seasons and created using ingredients that have either been foraged on the estate, grown in the walled garden or ethically sourced from the local area. It is a ‘no option’ menu, which keeps wastage, staff labour and fuel to a minimum. Produce is grown using regenerative agricultural methods, such as ‘no dig’ gardening and using animals to keep the soil healthy. Sometimes, the menu

isn’t finalised until the same day, when local fisherman, John, knows how many covers are booked and delivers whatever he thinks is best.

“Putting our menu design in the hands of our local suppliers means that we use what’s abundant rather than creating extra demand for what isn’t,” explains New Yard’s co-owner and executive chef, Jeffrey Robinson.

“I feel that restaurants and guides have a responsibility to lead by

“I feel that restaurants and guides have a responsibility to lead by example... and the Green Star does exactly that. Michelin have taken the first step, and we couldn’t be prouder to be one of the first restaurants awarded .”

example with how the food system is used, and the Green Star does exactly that. Michelin have taken the first step, and we couldn’t be prouder to be one of the first restaurants awarded.”

Wales’ only Green Star was awarded to historic country house hotel Palé Hall in the tranquil Dee valley. Its luxurious, fine-dining restaurant grows its own organic produce using its own compost, team uniforms are made from recycled plastic, and there’s a hydroelectric plant on-site, which provides renewable energy.

Scotland is also home to one Green Star; Inver in Strachur. Set in an isolated former crofter’s cottage and boat store on the shore of Loch Fyne, this beautiful restaurant has stunning views out across the water, and luxurious, eco-friendly, bothy-style bedrooms. Here, chefowner Pamela Brunton uses local, wild and foraged ingredients to create her outstanding modern menus.

“Sustainability is the ground on which we build our business; it’s much more than just a ‘subject’ to us,” she explains.

“The people, landscape, plants and animals that guide and shape our menus are an ecosystem, in which we are one evolving part. If they don’t thrive, neither can we.”

Elsewhere in the countryside, there's another Green Star at Daylesford Organic Farm in Gloucestershire, which has promoted sustainable farming for over 40 years. Attached to a farm shop is a stylish restaurant that houses a wood-fired oven, a botanical cocktail bar and a carefully curated menu of mostly organic food. In Axminster, the

Pictured previous page: Scotland's Green Star; Inver in Strachur Pictured left to right: New Yard Restaurant's flavours from the garden: cured monkfish, curry oil, yoghurt, grape and almond; serving of pheasant; and smoked cod's roe with carrots.

Pictured clockwise from left: The Baba Au Rhum at New Yard Restaurant; Dover sole with mussels and coastal vegetables at Petersham Nurseries; using regenerative methods in New Yard Restaurant's Walled Garden to grow fruit, vegetables and flowers as well as rear two Kunekune pigs and fourteen chickens; freshly picked tomatoes at Petersham Nurseries

focus at Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s rustic River Cottage Kitchen is also on seasonal, organic produce, with a menu of flavour-filled, plant-based dishes made using ingredients from its nearby farm. Staff are also treated in a sustainable manner here; working hours are fair, good food is provided, and 100% of tips are shared. In the kitchen, as much single-use plastic has been eliminated as possible, cling film is nowhere to be seen, and milk is delivered in metal churns.

These ethical and environmental efforts are not reserved for rural restaurants alone, oh no. Just off Eyre

Square in Galway city, Loam is the recipient of both a Michelin Star for its exceptional and ambitious cooking, and a Green Star for its rigorously eco-friendly approach. The seasonally driven menu is a masterclass in modern cooking and changes daily, depending on the availability of local produce.

Chef–owner Enda McEvoy goes above and beyond to ensure sustainability; local potters provide tableware, and local horticulturists grow wildflowers for the tables, thus supporting the local economy. Vegetables and meat are sourced directly from farmers, game from

hunters, and seafood and fish from local fishers. In the kitchen, fermenting and salting techniques are used to prevent waste, as is a composting system. Electricity comes from renewable sources, water usage is closely

monitored, and induction is used for cooking, as it uses less energy.

“Urban environments are where transformative action must take place, because by 2050 two-thirds of the world's population will be living in urban areas. That’s a lot of food, water, waste and energy needed, so cities have a pivotal opportunity to achieve the goals of the Paris Agreement (the international treaty on climate

change),” says Enda.

“Recognising efforts in the industry and the pivotal role that hospitality can play is hugely important. It encourages learning between restaurants and normalises sustainability efforts, rather than it being seen as a fringe movement.”

In Hackney, East London, Silo is the world’s first zero-waste restaurant; the menu is mainly

plant-based and everything, from the stylish furniture to the cool crockery, is made with recycled materials. Elsewhere in the capital, the picturesque Petersham Nurseries Café in Richmond has also received a Green Star, having championed sustainable practices for over 20 years. Alongside the delicious food, waste management is just as important; an advanced aerobic food digester uses oxygen,

‘Silo is the world’s first zero-waste restaurant... and everything, from the stylish furniture to the cool crockery, is made with recycled materials.’

Putting the British into British tea for the first time in history.

Tregothnan has pioneered botanical firsts since 1334, experimenting with new plants like the tea genus for over two centuries. We finally perfected the first ever tea production in the UK in 2005. Today we continue to innovate inspired by our precious plants and gardens.

microorganisms and warm water to turn plate waste into a liquid that can then be poured away, eliminating the need for any vehicular transportation. Menus here stick firmly to seasonal vegetables and fruits, with as few food miles generated as possible. Seven on-site beehives offer honey, while the owner’s family farm provides many of the organic ingredients used to create head chef Ambra Papa’s Italian-style dishes, which are served in a stunning bougainvillea- and jasmine-filled glasshouse.

“Consumers are becoming far more demanding when it comes to knowing where their food comes from, and that’s a good thing,” enthuses Ambra.

“I hope that the Green Star will highlight the fact that you can be green and successful at the same time. Quite often, it’s not the easiest and certainly not the cheapest way of operating, but it is the right way to run a business.”

So, next time you’re (Michelin) star spotting, why not look out for a green one?

GREEN STARS IN FULL

ENGLAND

☆ Angela's, Margate

☆ Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons, Great Milton

☆ Black Swan, Oldstead

☆ Coombeshead Farm, Lewannick

☆ Daylesford Organic Farm, Daylesford, Hypha, Chester

☆ L'Enclume, Cartmel

☆ New Yard, Trelowarren

☆ Oxo Tower Brasserie, Southwark, London

☆ Petersham Nurseries Café, Richmond, London

☆ Restaurant Sat Bains, Nottingham

☆ River Cottage Kitchen, Axminster

☆ Silo, Hackney, London

☆ The Dining Room, Whatley Manor, Malmesbury

☆ The Ethicurean, Wrington

☆ The Small Holding, Kilndown

☆ Tredwells, Strand and Covent Garden, London

☆ Where the Light Gets In, Stockport

SCOTLAND

☆ Inver, Strachur

WALES

☆ Henry Robertson Dining Room, Palé Hall, Llandderfel

REPUBLIC OF IRELAND

☆ Inis Meáin Restaurant and Suites, Inishmaan, Aran Islands

☆ Kai, Galway

☆ Loam, Galway

Pictured: New Yard Restaurant's Walled Garden

StratfordUPON-AVON

his son became. When William returned to Stratford in 1610, he arranged for a coat of arms to be granted to his father, which meant that henceforth the Shakespeares could carry swords.

Words | Adrian Mourby

YOU CAN’T GO anywhere in Stratford without being performed at. In the garden of Shakespeare’s birthplace three costumed performers accost visitors, asking them to name one of his plays. They then declaim a speech from memory for you.

Guests pass through this garden to reach the house from which John Shakespeare ran his glove-making enterprise in Stratford. The ground floor living room is decorated with vividly printed cloth, which was known as ‘poor man’s tapestry’. Shakespeare Senior wasn’t poor, but he was not the gentleman

John’s workshop for making gloves lies off the living room via a small passageway. It’s been reconstructed as it might have looked in the 16th century and there’s a costumed guide in there to explain how gloves were made in Tudor times. He’ll even tell you how many references there are to leather glove-making in Shakespeare’s plays.

WHERE TO EAT

One Elm

Built where one of three elm trees once marked the town boundary, this popular Stratford pub has a courtyard for summer dining and a ‘snug’ and loft for cooler weather. The loft is decorated with original David Bailey black-and-white photos from the 1960s of stars such as Michael Caine, David Hockney, and Mick Jagger. The menu offers the best of British pub fare with a number of local real ales offered on a Sip Before You Sup basis – so there’s no danger of choosing the wrong one. à oneelmsstratford.co.uk

RSC Rooftop Restaurant

For the best river views before going to a play at the Royal Shakespeare Company (RSC), take the lift to the third floor where an informal dining area has been carved out of what once was the back of the auditorium. A chair nailed to the wall above the tables indicates the position of the back row of the old upper circle. The stage must have seemed tiny from up there. The RSC Riverside Café is another option for take-away hot and cold drinks, homemade cakes, sandwiches and snacks. à rsc.org.uk/restaurant-cafes-bars

El Greco

This Greek restaurant is run by chef Dimitri and his ebullient wife Flair. El Greco offers the chance to eat a pre-theatre main course before heading down to the RSC then come back after curtain-down to finish off with dessert. The service is very cheery; Flair greets just about everyone like an old friend. The house wine is from Macedonia and there is a very good 22-dish Greek Banquet available for just over £20. On Fridays and Saturdays there is often Greek dancing upstairs. à el-greco.co.uk

Pictured left: New Place and Nash's House, the final home of William Shakespeare, manged by the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust

ILLUSTRATION BY SIROCCO DESIGN

Upstairs, guests can walk through bedrooms and see the attic where apprentices lived. There is a window that illustrious visitors have signed over the years, cutting into the glass with their diamond rings. Among them is the signature of the great Shakespearean actor Henry Irving (1838–1905).

Leaving via the Shakespeare Bookshop, walk down Henley Street past the various buskers to the old Barclays Bank on the corner. Until 1908 this building was Stratford’s market hall. Now turn right along High Street. Though many of the shopfronts ahead are modern, their first

and second floors are still half-timbered from Shakespeare’s time. Halfway down on the right stands Harvard House, where the maternal grandparents of John Harvard, one of the founders of Harvard College, Massachusetts lived. Harvard’s grandfather Thomas Rogers (1540–1611), served on Stratford’s borough corporation with John Shakespeare.

As High Street turns into Chapel Street, we come to Nash’s House. It’s another Jacobean half-timbered structure and now contains the New Place Museum, which is devoted to Shakespeare’s last years in Stratford. Thomas Nash married one of Shakespeare’s granddaughters, Elizabeth. Next door to Nash’s stood the house known as ‘New Place’. Shakespeare wrote many of his best later plays here. Sadly the house was demolished in 1759, an act of cultural vandalism that made the then owner so unpopular that he had to leave Stratford. Today the site of New Place is an open-air memorial to Shakespeare, with his gardens laid out in Tudor style running almost down to the River Avon.

Continuing over the road junction into Church Street, the Guild Chapel of the Holy Cross is a 13th-century church with dramatic 15th-century murals. They were paid for by Hugh Clopton, Lord Mayor of London, who had

WHERE TO STAY

The Townhouse

This family home stood here in Shakespeare’s time. Rooms to the rear of the hotel still date from the 1600s, but in 1768 the house was given an early neo-Gothic makeover, with ogee windows to the front. Today the Townhouse is an 11-bedroom boutique hotel with quirky decor and the occasional framed Shakespearean quote. à stratfordtownhouse.co.uk

Billesley Manor

Legend has it that Shakespeare wrote part of his comedy As You Like It in the library of this stone-built manor house five miles east of Stratford. The Church of All Saints in the hotel gardens was where Shakespeare’s granddaughter, Elizabeth was married in 1646 and may have been where Shakespeare himself married Anne Hathaway. The topiary gardens of Billesley are a reconstruction, but the dining room has an authentically Jacobean feel. à billesleymanor.com

The Arden

Located opposite the Swan Theatre, the Arden has long been associated with the Royal Shakespeare Company. Many actors have stayed here and the bar is full of production photos. Today the hotel has 35 rooms and suites. If you eat a pre-theatre supper in the restaurant, you can arrange to have dessert delivered to your room to await you after curtain-down.

à theardenhotelstratford.com

Pictured below: William Shakespeare's birthplace

owned New Place before Shakespeare bought it. Ironically Shakespeare’s father was one of those Stratford aldermen who, in the 16th century, whitewashed over these gaudy paintings because they were considered papist.

Next to the Guild Chapel is King Edward VI School, which young Shakespeare attended. In the classrooms upstairs there is often an actor in costume describing school life in Shakespeare’s time.

Escaping the entertainment, continue west on Church Street and turn left into the lane known as ‘Old Town’. Soon you’ll come to Hall’s Croft, a grand timber-framed Tudor house that was the home of Dr John Hall, who in 1607 married Shakespeare’s daughter Susanna, mother of Elizabeth.

We know that the parlour passageway at the back of the house was added by Susanna. We also know that the kitchen was originally a separate building, isolated within the walled garden for fire prevention reasons and only later linked to the house. Upstairs there is a dispensary exhibition reflecting John Hall’s work and medical practices in the early 17th century.

Now walk on down Old Town towards the River Avon and Holy Trinity Church to find Shakespeare’s polychromatic monument in the chancel. This is one of our best-known images of Shakespeare with his pointy beard and bald head. The dramatist’s tomb lies nearby, as do the graves of his family.

Finally, walk through the graveyard to pick up the riverside walk that heads back into Stratford. The route goes back through Avonbank Gardens with its odd little neoclassical temple. This pavilion was once part of Avonbank School, attended by young ladies such as Charlotte Bronte’s biographer, Elizabeth Gaskell and John Ruskin’s future wife Effie Gray. Pleasure boats and rowing boats occupy this part of the river. There is also an old hand-cranked chain ferry called Malvolio that still operates and charges 20p to cross the river. This garden route ends at the Swan Theatre, which was originally the Shakespeare Memorial Theatre that burned down in 1926. It was reopened as a theatre only in 1986 and now houses a small auditorium and a museum of Shakespeare performance called The Play’s the Thing. A boardwalk now takes this route along the river and past the new Memorial Theatre, the best-known Shakespeare venue in the world. It opened in 1932 and was radically reconceived and rebuilt from 2007 to 2011.

A lift from the new lobby takes visitors to the Rooftop restaurant, with its panoramic view across the whole of Stratford

Coming up in our next issue:

Pictured below: Rear gardens to Nash's House next door to Shakespeare's final residence, New Place

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OF THE BEST

10

AUTUMN STAYS

We all want somewhere gorgeous to stay – and these places are all certainly that – but they also have a little extra to add to the holiday vibe

Words

| Emma O'Reilly

STAY AND DO YOGA

Unwind, quite literally, on a yoga break in the heart of the Yorkshire Dales. Dalesend Cottages are on a private estate in the grounds of a much larger house, also available for hire. Each of the four exquisite cottages (think: super king-size beds, woodburners and free standing baths) sleeps two people and guests can take advantage of one of the most enticing on-site yoga studios we have seen. Come as a couple or with friends, book yourselves in for some of the regular group classes, or private sessions with yoga teacher Emma. When you’re not salutating the sun, yomp around 25 acres of parkland or strike into the countryside of the Yorkshire Dales, dotted with interesting market towns and stately homes and gardens. Three-night breaks start from £487 per property. Yoga lessons cost extra. à dalesendcottages.co.uk

STAY AND SEE WILDLIFE

Fancy falling asleep to the sound of lions roaring and waking up to a view of giraffes striding past the window? The good news is that you don’t have to travel to Africa to experience it – just Wiltshire! Longleat have opened three stylish new cottages within their grounds. Keeper’s Cottage (sleeps two) and Keeper’s House (sleeps four) are within the safari park itself, while East Lodge, the Longleat gatehouse, is at the top of the driveway. With each booking guests receive park tickets for each day of their stay, a welcome hamper and continental breakfast. At the Keeper’s properties, an exclusive 4x4 guided safari tour is also included – don’t forget the binoculars, as you’re likely to see lions, tigers, zebra, rhino, wolves and more. Longleat House itself is well worth a visit, with its high Elizabethan architecture, sumptuous state rooms and Capability-Brown-designed grounds. Events this autumn and winter include a hot air balloon ‘Sky Safari’ and the fantastical lanterns of the Festival of Light. Cottages from £375 per night à longleat.co.uk

FOODIES WILL LOVE

3STAY AND COOK

Book a break at Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall’s River Cottage, in a bucolic setting on the Dorset–Devon border. Even better, sign up for a cookery course (what else?) while you are here. Bedrooms in the old farmhouse are whitewashed, comfortable and simply stylish. Breakfast is served in a room with flagstone floors and an old Esse stove. Courses running this autumn range from cider making to bread making and cooking over outdoor fires. There are lessons in fermenting and foraging, an ‘Eat Better Forever’ session with Hugh, a one-day cookery course and a more in-depth four day alternative (with Hugh on veg duty). The Axminster Kitchen is standing by to feed you when you’re not in the middle of a lesson. There are walks into a nature reserve near the house, and the incredible Jurassic Coast is just a 10-minute drive away for walks, fossil hunts and mackerel-fishing boat trips. Doubles from £160 per night, bed and breakfast. à rivercottage.net

EDITOR'S CHOICE STAY AND GO ON A LLAMA TREK

Merry Harriers, a charming 16th-century pub set in the picturesque village of Hambledon in the Surrey Hills, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, must be one of the UK’s most charming country inns – with new luxurious accommodation and unforgettable guest experiences, including llama treks, electric bike hire and gin classes, there is so much more here than just a hearty pub lunch.

This wonderfully eccentric inn was refurbished a couple of years ago, following new ownership by the brilliant Peter de Savary (www.desavary.com) in 2017, to include four new beautifully designed ensuite bedrooms and three ensuite bedrooms in a converted barn in the gardens. It is run by husband-and-wife team, Sam and Danielle Montgomery-Page, and is the only inn in England to offer picnic llama treks with its own resident herd.

The inn is steeped in history, with the landlords’ names through the ages written on the pub walls. Sustainability conscious, the chefs take pride in using the freshest and best ingredients – foraged where possible (nettles, blackberries, wild garlic) and sourced within a 15-mile radius. The menu offers heart-warming freshly cooked traditional pub staples and chef’s specials, including exceptional Sunday roasts and lighter bites, such as sharing platters, smoked salmon, prawn and gazpacho platter, and a ham hock terrine. Seasonal specialities are a

highlight, with wild mushroom and Hambledon nettle risotto a current favourite.

The emphasis on local suppliers continues at the bar, where at least two of the four real ales on offer are from Surrey Brewers, and the Merry Harriers Garden Cider is made using Hambledon apples donated by residents to the cider press. Local wines contribute to an impressive wine list and freshly mixed cocktails are on offer alongside spirits and superior soft drinks.

Full of character and life, the dog-friendly traditional inn is less than an hour from London (five minutes from Milford Station), in the picturesque village of Hambledon, just seven miles from the charming market town of Haslemere in a remarkable pocket of England on the edge of the South Downs National Park, a haven for walkers and cyclists. Stay and experience the landscape a little differently, with their fabulous llama treks and picnics on the Greensand Way, and cycle tours in the Hills.

The herd of lovely llamas now numbers nine, each with their own individual character and personality. They have an incredibly calming and therapeutic influence and make the ideal companion for trekking the outstanding natural beauty of the Surrey Hills, with its unique flora, fauna and history. The gentle and friendly llamas will carry your picnic as you lead them through the spectacular Surrey Hills; from the high points you can see as far as the South Downs. Llamas are affectionate, intelligent and alert and will draw your attention to things you would never normally notice.

Trips on offer include an English Picnic Trek, a Winter Morning Trek – to include lunch back at the Merry Harriers, or even a Luxury Champagne Picnic Trek.

Located deep in rural England, the Surrey Hills have long been a place to stay for exceptionally quiet and peaceful nights, but with the launch of their new deluxe Shepherd's Huts, The Merry Harriers is now your perfect romantic getaway for a cosy autumn break. Beautifully positioned around a pond on a pretty manicured lawn in a field across

the road from the inn, they feel snug, safe and secluded. They're super cosy inside too, with a log burner, sheepskin rugs, super-cute llama cushions, chic and colourful interiors, and stylish kitchen and bathroom mod-cons. And of course no Shepherd's Hut would be complete without its own firepit and blankets to snuggle down ready for some marshmallow toasting at sunset.

Jessica was a guest on The Merry Bikation experience. Prices start from £330 and include a two-night stay in your accommodation of choice, including Shepherd's Hut, Garden Room or Inn Room, cooked breakfast on both mornings, a three-course dinner with preferred local ale on one night of your stay and a hearty packed lunch for your cycle day in the Hills. Llama Treks are priced from £89 per adult, £55 per child or £220 for a family. Cycle tours with Surrey Hills Cycle last up to four hours and there is also a non-guided tour option and e-bikes available to hire.

à merryharriers.com

FAMILIES WILL LOVE

STAY AND ADVENTURE

There will be no twiddling of the thumbs on a break at the new Adventure Parc Snowdonia in Gwynedd. You’ll be too busy surfing, freefalling, zip wiring and cycling or skateboarding on a Pump Track. There’s indoor caving and assault courses if you’re feeling the cold. Off-site, even more activities beckon, including coasteering and mountain walking – the team can also give advice on lots of alternatives to the overtrodden Mount Snowdon. The Deli, Bar and Kitchen keep everyone fuelled in between all the fun. And, if you feel tired even reading about that little lot, there is always the opportunity to kick back in the spa with treatments. Accommodation is in woodland or lagoon-side glamping pods (open until end of October) that sleep up to four, or at the new Hilton Garden Inn. Adventure Parc Snowdonia Glamping Pods from £65 per night; Hilton Garden Inn Snowdonia doubles from £86 per night, room only. à adventureparcsnowdonia.com

STAY AND SWIM

Anthology Farm, near Cheltenham, has been converted from two 18thcentury barns into a selfcatering sanctuary. This place is all soft natural and muted colours, warm Cotswold stone, textural fabrics, tasselled lights, freestanding baths. It's a little bit Scandi, with a touch of boho… There’s plenty of room for 18 to relax. Of great appeal for autumn and winter guests is the serene, heated, indoor pool, where languorous laps can be totted up while

the weather unfolds over the surrounding countryside through the huge glass windows. Then, wrap up and sit by the fire, or maybe watch a film on the big projector screen. There are 500 acres to roam from the door, so you can pretty much guarantee you won’t see another soul on your daily strolls. Anyone missing the outside world can delve into smart Cheltenham or explore the adorable villages of the Cotswolds. Short breaks from £5,495, one week stays from £6,850 à uniquehomestays.com

STAY AND ENJOY THE VIEW

Pilot House looks, from afar, like a giant tin can touched down on the grassy shores of the Sound of Mull. The circular design, with a wraparound balcony, means guests can bask in 360-degree views of this dazzling Highland landscape and out over Ardnarmurchan and the Isle of Mull. Inside, Pilot House is a small but light-filled space for a couple, with the bedroom downstairs and the living space upstairs, a spiral staircase connecting the two. A wood burner keeps out the chill, and a tiny office offers a vista to inspire would-be novelists and painters. Days out could include a ferry trip to Tobermory (aka Ballamory) and a visit to a whisky distillery. Prices from £526 for a three-night minimum stay. à coolstays.com

STAY AND ENJOY YOUR OWN HOST CHEF

If you are looking for a gastronomic break away and love beams and vaulted ceilings, then the boutique converted barn, Shakepear’s Shoes, with uninterrupted views of the Warwickshire countryside, is certain not to disappoint.

It comes with exclusive access to a beautifully equipped outdoor-indoor alfresco living and dining space, with ceramic egg barbecue and pizza oven, and host Adam is an accomplished chef, available to prepare you anything from afternoon tea to a six-course fine dining experience. As night falls this is the perfect spot for toasting giant marshmallows around the fire pit, or to simply relax in the hammock with a good book.

You will also not be short for inspiration on days out, with the delights of Stratfordupon-Avon, the beautiful Cotswolds, Leamington Spa, Warwick and Cheltenham, to name but a few, all within easy reach. Prices from £582 for a three-night stay to include a welcome hamper. Adam offers guests the option of a partial or fully catered holiday, as well as bespoke cookery workshops, which can be booked as a full- or half-day experience on prior arrangement. à ruralretreats.co.uk

STAY AND VISIT NATURAL BEAUTY SPOTS

Set in the gorgeous village of Fontmell Magna in north Dorset, this beautiful chocolate-box cottage, Fiddlesticks, is on the edge of West Wiltshire Downs Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Nestled in the countryside, this wonderful, thatched retreat is the perfect home from home to restore and recharge. Sleeping eight, it has an impressive kitchen and lovely gardens, as well as a bubbling cedar wood hot tub. Explore this wonderful part of England, from the exquisite AONB of Cranborne Chase and the vibrant town of Dorchester to the famed coastline of Studland and Lulworth Cove through to Lyme Regis. Surrounded by so much to see and do, you'll never lack for days out, whether it's pottering in the independent shops of Shaftsbury, exploring natural beauty spots, such as Hambledon Hill, or heading towards the coast where the likes of Studland, Lulworth Cove and Lyme Regis await. There are fabulous places to eat and drink in the area too, and The Fontmell, an excellent pub and restaurant, is just 400 metres from the cottage. Prices from £1,732 for a long weekend or midweek break. à boutique-retreats.co.uk

GARDENERS WILL LOVE

STAY AND EXPLORE THE GARDENS

Homewood is part of a boutique hotel collection on our 'ones-to-watch' list. The Bath-based Kaleidoscope Collection trio is a burgeoning artistic portfolio and also includes The Bird, just a few minutes’ mosey from the buzzing epicentre of Bath, and the recently acquired Bishopstrow Hotel & Spa, set within 27 acres of Wiltshire countryside.

When it comes to hotel design and interiors, owners Ian and Christa Taylor clearly know what they're doing –they have been involved in many award-winning projects, transforming small properties into beautiful boutique hotels using their signature style of unusual eclectic decor to create spaces that Alex Polizzi would be proud of.

Homewood is an eccentric country house hotel that has just launched 10 rooms in its new Mallingford Mews, each with hot tub suites and balconies.

There's an Instagram-perfect garden spa with indoor and outdoor pool, a new wellness offering from Olympian Amy Williams, as well as snazzy dining pods on the lawn – perfect for afternoon teas, or celebrations at Christmas, when only a dome will do.

Take a wonderful loop walk through ancient woodlands and quiet lanes, taking in the River Frome, with a convenient stop-off at Grade-I-listed Iford Manor Garden to explore their tranquil grounds, cloister, The Peto and Italianate gardens. Prices from £295 per night. à homewoodbath.co.uk

HOTEL REVIEW...

BURGH ISLAND HOTEL

In search of an idyllic private island with magical charm, blessed with exotic plants, translucent seas and endless amounts of golden sand? Spend your days exploring ruined castles, discovering shipwreck tales

Words | Lydia Paleschi

UNRIVALLED IN LOCATION, Burgh Island Hotel sits atop its very own tidal island off the coast of South Devon and is accessible by foot or car only at low tide, twice a day. At high tide, it is possible to reach the island via its unique sea tractor, which can navigate its way through almost six metres of swell. As the tide rises from either side to cover the beach of Bigbury (a notable attraction in its own right and recognised as one of the country's best beaches), the hotel's occupants are transported back in time to their very own microcosm of 1930s glamour. Burgh Island has an eclectic history of smugglers, celebrities and culture alike. Known as the second home of Agatha Christie and the setting for her 1939 novel And Then There Were None, it has also been frequented by a number of famous faces, including Josephine Baker, Sir Winston Churchill and President Eisenhower. It features a unique architecture, including the addition of the Captain’s Cabin of the HMS Ganges – a warship – in the 1930s, which is now used as the Nettlefold restaurant, an excellent place to dine on seafood. After parking at Bigbury-on-Sea on a blustery November afternoon, we were collected by the wonderful hotel driver, Richard and transported to the

island. Here, we were seated in the Palm Court and handed a flute of Champagne. In doing so, we had the perfect opportunity to soak up the art deco ambience and oceanic views as we waited for our room to be prepared. Despite the shoddy weather and howling winds battering the hotel from all sides (which in itself was fantastically atmospheric) we sat bathed in light in the Palm Court, thanks to its impressive kaleidoscopic domed ceiling. Fresh flowers adorned the bar top, and the velvet chairs were so plush and comfortable that we sank

instantly into a luxuriously comfortable state of bliss. Upon being shown to our room – the Nettlefold Suite – we were impressed with its warm and inviting palette of bronze and brown. Despite the November weather, our room was cosy and welcoming, with lovely thick carpets and bedding. The Nettlefold includes a fabulous double bed, which gifted us with the best night’s sleep we’d had in a long time, as well as a separate sitting room. A balcony ran the length of the two rooms, the perfect place to sit with a pair of binoculars (kindly provided) to look over the mermaid

Pictured clockwise from above: Champagne in the Palm Court cocktail bar; Exterior of Burgh Island Hotel; Palm Court cocktail bar; At high tide, it is possible to reach the island via its unique sea tractor

pool and far out to sea. We were told that on some occasions you may be lucky enough to spot seals perching upon the rocks below.

As part of our stay we were offered a complimentary seven-course taster meal, which required us to dress our best in full-black-tie attire. We started in the Palm Court Lounge with canapés and cocktails before being brought through to the ballroom. With scenes of a 1930s dinner party adorning the walls at the far end of the room and the accompaniment of a jazz piano player throughout all courses, the ballroom oozes sophistication.

The chandeliers sparkled overhead as we were served up exquisite cuisine, sourced from high-quality local produce and provided with impeccable service

‘Burgh Island has an eclectic history of smugglers, celebrities and culture alike.

’

throughout. The staff were friendly and attentive, and both the standard and meat-free options were a delight. No detail was overlooked as the food both tasted delicious and was presented impeccably.

A particular favourite course of mine was the starter (confit chicken leg, crispy chicken skin, Marcona almonds, sweetcorn purée and bacon popcorn) and the desert (raspberry bavarois, ruby chocolate glaze, meringue, raspberry sorbet).

Breakfast in the Nettlefold Restaurant the next morning was very tasty too. With a variety of options, including cooked breakfasts and pancakes, plus a continental selection of freshly baked pastries and breads, we were able to start the day right.

Being able to look out of the windows at the ocean views and watch windsurfers flying across the waves as the tide went back out was a bonus.

THE PILCHARD

One of the country’s oldest inns, the Pilchard has been standing on Burgh Island since 1336 – almost 700 years. Originally quenching the thirst of local fishers and then smugglers, its old-fashioned charm and character still remains. Offering a more laid-back setting than the hotel

Pictured left to right: The Mermaid Pool, a private natural sea water bathing pool; The Pilchard Inn – originally quenching the thirst of local fishers and then smugglers, its old-fashioned charm and character still remains

itself, the Pilchard serves up lunch and dinner, though it is advised to pre-book because it can only seat a limited number.

The Pilchard has an impressive history of its own, with notorious smuggler Tom Crocker using it as his hideout in the 14th century. Unfortunately for Crocker, he was caught and shot on the inn’s doorstep by the authorities.

LYDIA RECOMMENDS

At low tide, make the most of Bigbury Beach’s golden sand or try your hand at swimming and surfing.

Alternatively, take a leisurely stroll around the island and hotel grounds, go for a dip in the island’s private outdoor mermaid pool or try your hand at a game of tennis. For those wishing to stay inside, treat yourself from a range of spa treatments or kick back and relax in the film room.

The hotel also offers a snooker room, live music and ballroom dancing twice a week, and my personal favourite – a murder mystery night.

If you’d like to venture further afield, Bigbury-on-Sea and the nearby towns of Salcombe and Kingsbridge are accessible by crossing the sand – but be sure to make it back before the tide rises!

‘One of the country’s oldest inns, the Pilchard has been standing on Burgh Island since 1336 – almost 700 years’

CORNISH COAST Escape to the

STAYING IN A BRAND NEW GLORIOUS WATERSIDE TOWNHOUSE

AFTER OVER A YEAR OF lockdown, escaping to the coast has never been more sought after – and we’ve got just the ticket! Cornwall's newest and most desirable waterside destination, North Quay in Hayle is set within the striking scenery of the Hayle estuary, with World Heritage Status, a beautiful sandy beach and picturesque harbour. British Travel Journal has teamed up with Cornish Gems, to celebrate their brandnew exclusive property, North Quay Beach House, located perfectly within the quay’s Rue An Borthva, (the first phase of luxury homes) and offer you the chance to win a luxury three-night stay. The stunning mewsstyle townhouse offers superior luxury for up to six guests within three bedrooms, including two master suites with sea views; an open plan living, dining and kitchen space; and two balconies overlooking Hayle estuary, harbour and nature reserve. Pack up for a day trip and head to the stunning villages and towns

nearby, including St Ives, Carbis Bay, Mousehole and many more. Shop at Hayle's local bakeries, ice cream parlours and curio shops. Put your state-of-the-art kitchen to good use with fresh Cornish produce, or relax on the sofas and enjoy the stunning interiors and views from the balconies. At high water the harbour comes alive with kayakers, paddleboarders, fishing and pleasure boats, which chug past your bird's-eye vantage point. At low water, sea birds flock to wade in the shallows. Looking across the water, the greens of West Cornwall Golf Club are visible, with the iconic church of Lelant on the skyline. To the front of North Quay Beach House, a waterside walkway leads under the ground floor balcony towards the mouth of the estuary and beyond, where a beachside coffee is never far away. Three miles of golden sand beach stretch from Hayle Towans to Godrevy and the prominent lighthouse. A surfer's paradise, a beach lover's playground and a walker's inspiration – however you like to holiday, this corner of Cornwall has it all.

COMPETITION WIN A LUXURY THREE- NIGHT STAY!

For your chance to win this extraordinary getaway simply enter via our website before the end of the year. The winner will be announced in our next issue and on our Instagram page.

TERMS AND CONDITIONS

 Competition closing date is 31 December 2021.

 Prize is for six guests maximum.

 Prize is valid until 31 December 2022.

 Stay dates restricted to short break periods, as per availability calendar.

 Prize is non-refundable and no cash alternative is available.



 No travel is included.

Cornish Gems booking T&Cs apply.

HOW TO ENTER

STYLE EDITS

Travel souvenirs and gifts lovingly made for the discerning traveller

SCIENCE THAT MAKES SCENTS

Harnessing the power of plants, Trelonk, Cornwall's new Essential Oil Concentrates, £24, and Topical Oils, £20, come in three formulas, to help to soothe, uplift and rest you. trelonkwellbeing.com

COTSWOLD WEEKEND BAG

This smart holdall is perfect for weekends away to the countryside, city and coast –the canvas is beautifully framed by the waxy cowhide trims in dark havana, giving it a truly luxurious English feel and look, priced £620. ettinger.co.uk

SLEEP WELL Editor loves

with the ultimate pampering treat

Have the restful night sleep you deserve, whether you're at home or staying away, with The White Company’s Rose Quartz Gua Sha, and pure-cotton Spa Headband. Then, wake up to the brightening Eye Revive Daily Eye Serum, priced £55 as a gift set. thewhitecompany.com

Are you visiting Oxford, Bath, Stratford-Upon-Avon, Truro or Exeter this season? Pop into The White Company store, spend over £50 and you will receive a complimentary copy of British Travel Journal. Plus, receive a The White Company signature Seychelles Candle worth over £20 when you subscribe: britishtraveljournal.com/twc

New luxurious night-time treatment, Queen of the Night, leaves the skin healthy and radiant using a rejuvenating blend of organic botanical extracts and oils to nourish the skin. Vegan and cruelty free, priced £35.  moa.co.uk

48 HOURS AT THE

GOODWOOD ESTATE

With over 12,000 acres of nature walks, health and wellbeing treatment rooms, sustainable farming, new wellness experiences, and divine mouth-watering home-grown food, a stay at the Goodwood Hotel has more delights besides its renowned vintage cars, planes and world-famous festivals.

Words | Jessica Way

THREE MONTHS ago, say the words ‘Goodwood’, and I would immediately reminisce to previous years of the Revival, dressing up in my best ’60s style, sipping Champagne, and dancing with friends between the Spitfires and Mustangs. “Give me Goodwood on a summer’s day, and you can forget the rest of the world”, as described in the words of British racing driver, Roy Salvadori.

There’s absolutely no doubt that events such as the Goodwood Revival and the Festival of Speed, enjoyed by over 150,000 visitors each year (during pre-COVID times), have propelled Goodwood into the worldwide spotlight, under the welldeserved accolade as ‘England’s greatest sporting estate’.

More recently, however, I have seen Goodwood in another light, entirely away from the big crowds and spotlight, more simply, as a beautiful escape away from the modern world. A place you can leave your worries behind and recharge with woodland walks between ancient oaks,

ponder over beautiful paintings, and enjoy home-grown organic food. Life flows at a different pace at Goodwood.

Goodwood has been home to the same family for over 300 years. Each generation has influenced the character and appearance of Goodwood, with much of the estate staying true to its original form. There is perhaps nowhere on the estate more true of this than at Goodwood House, surrounded in the beautiful landscape of the Beech Forest, between its majestic cedars with its unique copperdomed turrets and grand columned portico, which are as beautiful to behold as the paintings inside.

The Front Hall of the house, built in 1800, serves as the backdrop for three paintings by George Stubbs of various sporting scenes on the estate, including his famous ‘Racehorses Exercising at Goodwood’, which hangs over one of two marble chimneypieces in the Regency entrance.

There’s also the beautiful Anthony Van Dyck portrait of

Pictured clockwise from left: Goodwood House; Goodwood House, eastern façade; view over the pond towards the private gardens; Tapestry Drawing Room; Yellow Drawing Room

King Charles I and his family in the Ballroom, a fabulous reminder of its fascinating past. This magnificent room is where our wonderful 48 hours at Goodwood began – with a delightful selection of cakes, pastries, and delicious finger sandwiches. (Afternoon tea is served in the Ballroom between 1pm and 4.30pm each day, with bookings made in advance). There is an option to book a house tour or combine it with a luxury cream tea, and both options are very reasonably priced.

Often I find afternoon teas too sweet and sugary to enjoy, but not in this case. Each attractive, artistic tantalising tier was entirely delicious and comforting. I was surprised at how light and palatable it all was, from the Goodwood ham and mustard sandwiches,

Goodwood House scone with clotted cream and strawberry jam (jam first, of course!) to the coconut and mango pannacottas. It was our first taste of the award-winning produce from Goodwood’s home farm – and the perfect introduction to feeling at home at Goodwood.

I savoured the final sips of my Darjeeling tea (from the foothills of the Himalayas) along with the last raspberry macaron (they serve a Macaron of the Month, which changes with the season) before being greeted by our lovely guide, ready to take us on a private tour of the house.

Goodwood House is owned by the Duke and Duchess of Richmond, Charles GordonLennox and Janet Astor, daughter of the third Viscount Astor. They married in 1991, and live in the West Wing of the house with their

‘It was our first taste of the award-winning produce from Goodwood’s home farm – and the perfect introduction to feeling at home at Goodwood.’

Pictured clockwise from left: afternoon tea at Goodwood House; Goodwood Hotel; Goodwood Hotel swimming pool; Goodwood Hotel reception; en-suite bedrooms

four children. Between set times, they allow visitors on guided tours to admire the grand State Apartments. It is a wonderful jaunt of one magnificent room after another; the south wing comprises the Ballroom, Card Room, Yellow Drawing Room, Red Hall, Egyptian Dining Room and Music Room. The outdoor colonnade, with an external view of the old house at one end and a glistening pond with a perfect view of one of their famous Cedar of Lebanon trees, then leads you to the back of the North Wing, Long Hall and Tapestry Drawing Room.

Once checked into the hotel, our fluffy dressing gowns and slippers reminded us that some wellness time was ours for the taking – following a challenging year dealing with the pandemic, being able to take a dip, to sit in a sauna and to feel the tension melt away with the relaxing bubbles of the Jacuzzi, is a luxury not to be missed.

Feeling fully relaxed, we spruced ourselves up for dinner and made our way to the hotel restaurant: Farmer, Butcher, Chef. In true Goodwood style, the restaurant is beautifully designed – memorabilia of its former hunting days and 300 years of farming line the walls and

decorate the furnishings, in a style so countryside chic and luxuriously à la mode, it enters a league of its own.

Goodwood has designer Cindy Leveson to thank for this pizzazz – her distinctive style and talent has sprinkled Goodwood magic throughout the hotel interior, from the cosy snug and rallying bar to the impactful decor in the restaurant. The detail is incredible, from the huge glass lightbulbs hanging from the ceiling and Christopher Howe chairs made out of Goodwood flags, to the pretty butterflies and old keys beautifully displayed in picture frames along the walls. Even our table was glass-topped, partitioned into several compartments of interesting old motoring and clock mechanics.

The relevance of this remarkable history is understood and appreciated with each mouthful of delicious food, made from the finest home-grown ingredients and cooked to perfection. Dishes such as Spiced Rump South Down Lamb and Fillet of Newhaven Cod, enjoyed with a glass of (local vineyards) Gusbourne’s or Tinwood’s English Sparkling wine, makes it impossible not to order well. If you can’t decide, the chef will create a sharing board showcasing his various cuts and techniques, using all three of their delicious meats.

I can thoroughly recommend the old-fashioned cheesecake for dessert, served with Goodwood’s home farm cream and local strawberries.

The following morning we had a private golf lesson with golf professional Chris McDonnell at the Park course (one

of Goodwood's two 18-hole golf courses on the estate), just a short walk from the hotel.

Available as one of the Goodwood Academy experiences, the golf lessons are held with nationally acclaimed pros who offer their expertise to players of any level, from beginner to expert. Chris was an excellent teacher, and there was a fantastic feeling of accomplishment, even after just a few successful swings.

We decided to enjoy lunch al fresco on the terrace at The Kennels, their exclusive members’ clubhouse, also open to hotel guests, with views across the other of their 18-hole golf courses on the estate – The Downs, designed by five-time Open champion James Braid in 1914.

There was no departing without a visit to their home farm dairy, followed by a visit to the farm shop for some of their beautiful deep-red Sussex organic beef to take home for a special Sunday roast.

The Farm Manager has helped to build up an impressive customer list of exclusive restaurants and private members' clubs, and together with the Executive Chef and Master

Pictured left to right: aerial view of the Downs golf course; Goodwood home farm; private dining at Farmer, Butcher, Chef restaurant; interior of the Farmer, Butcher, Chef restaurant; Jessica relaxing in the hotel snug

Butcher, has developed Goodwood's impressive 'farm to fork' sustainable food philosophy. I am also told about a series of new health and wellbeing experiences launching at Goodwood, to include a fiveday restorative retreat to help guests rebalance, revitalise and recharge.

As we pull out of the driveway and begin to head home, an impressive convoy of classic two-seater motors, in regal blues, beautiful beiges, vibrant reds, and glorious greens, zips past, with glimpses of their equally stylish, seriously dapper drivers. It's a reminder that Goodwood is more than a hotel, more than a racecourse, and more than a countryside sporting estate. Goodwood is quintessentially English, a destination for members, and, under the first-class management of an exceptional family and magnificent team, also for everyone else to enjoy.

Next time you visit, don't feel you need to make it on race day –because every day is a good day to visit Goodwood.

Three-course dinner at Farmer, Butcher, Chef, overnight stay and breakfast at The Goodwood Bar & Grill, from £250 for two à goodwood.com

DID YOU KNOW?

FUN FACTS

Goodwood Trees

Goodwood's trees have proved to be an invaluable asset to the estate at times. Once an estimated 33,000 Beech trees were sold to cover Death Duties. Some of the oldest trees at Goodwood are the famous Cedars of Lebanon, planted in 1761, at the request of the third Duke of Richmond – of the original 1000 planted, only a few of these trees remain.

Cricket Rules

The rules written for a cricket match in 1727 between the 2nd Duke of Richmond and Mr Brodrick are the oldest written set of rules in the world. You can see them on display in the Goodwood Archive.

Rewilding Projects

Goodwood staff were involved in a huge woodland creation project in December 2019 – the largest of its type in the South of England. The ongoing scheme will eventually see 40 hectares of new plantations in 12 locations, with over 78,000 trees arriving on the estate. They have also planted an extra 600 metres of hedgerow at Goodwood, and rewilded several sections of the 11,000 acres to support the local flora and fauna.

The artist Duke

The Duke of Richmond, Charles Gordon-Lennox, led a very successful career as a high production still life and special effects photographer in London and continues his passion today (as Charles March). You can see some of his beautiful landscape photography around the estate. Since then, he has experimented with digital photography to produce highly evocative, impressionistic and abstract works that push the boundaries traditionally associated with photography.

Eight-sided masterplan

Goodwood House looks like three sides of an octagon, and it was once believed the plan was intended to build the complete figure, but this has never been proved. It is not known what the intentions were when this somewhat picturesque shape was devised, but the layout certainly works perfectly for a private family home combined with grand public apartments and far-reaching views over the park.

Sustainable Farming

Goodwood Home Farm is one of the largest lowland organic farms in the UK and has been fully organic since 1996.

ENGLISH WHISKY

In recent years England has begun to produce sparkling wines that rival those produced in Champagne. Now in the 2020s it's the turn of English distillers to show that they can compete with Scotland's most famous export

Words | Adrian Mourby

IN BRITAIN, whisky has strong associations with Scotland. So much so in fact that in the 19th century the word ‘Scotch’ came to mean whisky not only in neighbouring England but all over the British Empire. But that hegemony has begun to shift in the last 15 years. In 2006 there was only one whisky distillery in England. Now there are more than 30.

England will never produce the big single malt guns like Laphroaig and Tallisker nor the internationally-famous Scottish blends like Johnny Walker and Famous Grouse but these days there are some wonderful artisanal distillers producing great idiosyncratic whiskies throughout England. These small distilleries have been set up all over the country, in Yorkshire and the Lake District, on the Suffolk and Norfolk coasts, and of course in London. Each pursues its own vision, sometimes even to the point of eccentricity, but all of them are producing great whiskies in small batches – and best of all you can visit and share in their enthusiasm.

English Whisky Company

Any whisky tour of England has to start with the English Whisky Company in Roudham, Norfolk.

It was here in 2006 that James Nelstrop and son Andrew, constructed St George’s, England's first whisky distillery to be built in over a century.

The Nelstrop's come from a long line of English farmers who can be

traced back to working the land in Yorkshire during the 14th century.

It was on James's 60th birthday that he decided he wanted a new venture and chose to produce whisky.

It was a bold move, but he had the help of his son Andrew, and advisor, Iain Henderson from Laphroaig, the only Scottish distillery to be by appointment to HRH Prince Charles.

Norfolk is in East Anglia, which in James’ opinion is one of the few areas in England suitable for growing topquality malting barley, the essential ingredient in single malt whisky.

The second vital ingredient – water – would come from a 160-foot bore hole that draws up water of purity and

high mineral content in Roudham. With great confidence, the distillery chose to name its single malt The English. It now produces eight English single malts, each flavoured by the barrels in which the whisky matures.

There is also a grain whisky series called The Norfolk which has a bowler-hatted seal on its label, a nod to the fact that the bowler hat was first produced for gamekeepers working at Holkham Hall, also in Norfolk. The complete range is available at the company’s spacious modern distillery and visitor centre, with its black clapboard exterior and cowled roof close to the Thetford Forest Park.

‘He had the help of his son Andrew, and advisor, Iain Henderson from Laphroaig, the only Scottish distillery to be by appointment to HRH Prince Charles...’

Adnams

Across the border in Suffolk, in the picture-perfect coastal village of Southwold, stands Adnams, which was originally founded in 1872 but as a brewery, not a distillery. The enterprise was set up by two Suffolk brothers, George and Ernest Adnams. In the 20th century their substantial brick-built factory produced huge amounts of ales and ciders for Suffolk and beyond.

The building was a familiar site for visitors with its mechanical figure of ‘Southwold Jack’ on its exterior. Jack’s job was intended to sound the hours by striking his axe against the metal bell that hung over him.

Moving with the times, in 2010 Adnams successfully challenged an old English law that prevented brewers from having a distillery on the same premises. This enabled the firm to build a new Copper House Distillery behind the old premises to make gin, vodka and whisky, all from the same locally sourced ingredients – Suffolk barley, rye, wheat, and oats – that go into Adnams beers.

There are now three reasonably priced whiskies made on-site, a Single Malt, a Triple Malt (made with wheat, barley and oats) and a Rye Malt Whisky. All are aged in oak barrels and you can buy a sample pack of all three in 20cl bottles (£41.99) from the busy visitor centre.

East London Distillery

A very different whisky experience is on offer at the East London Distillery on Bow Wharf in Hackney. The building is a low, grey-painted former glue factory that faces on to the old Regent's Canal. The East London Liquor Company was founded here by former actor and bartender Alex Wolpert who stands for “Great spirits without the crafty bullshit. Everyone should have good booze for good prices from good people. It sounds radical, but it shouldn’t.”

Since July 2014 Wolpert’s selfstyled People’s Drinks Company has been producing and importing a wide range of spirits, including gins, vodka, rum and whisky. Success came quickly. In its first year his team of five were producing 1,000 bottles of gin a month for East London bars and restaurants.

Because of regulations, whisky cannot be released for

three years, but today there is an East London Wheat Whisky, an East London Rye, and a new East London Blend, which is a cross-Atlantic collaboration with the Bourbon produced by Sonoma Distilling Company in California. Wolpert describes the blend as “chock-full of sweet corn, brandy-soaked cherries, fresh grass, and not for the fainthearted.”

The East London Distillery is proud that its neighbours are “canalside warehouses and old school boozers”

and indeed the exposed brickwork of the distillery’s interior gives it an edginess that matches its claim to serve “kick-ass cocktails”.

Pictured previous page: St George's Distillery, Roundham, Norfolk Pictured clockwise from left: Adnams Copper House Distillery; East London Distillery's Andy Mooney carrying a cask; casks at the East London Distillery; Andrew Nelstrop, Chairman of The English Whisky Co who helped set up the business with his father, James

Bimber

Twelve miles to the west, on the other side of London, is another remarkable distillery, set up by two long-term Polish immigrants Dariusz Plazewski and Ewelina Chruszczyk. Bimber is the Polish word for ‘moonshine’ or illegally distilled spirits. It’s also the name the couple chose for their new distillery, tucked away in the unassuming Park Royal industrial estate.

Bimber brings to British whisky the skills perfected over centuries by Polish moonshiners, but it applies them legally. The distillery laid down its first casks in May 2016 and released the inaugural single malt whisky, known as The First just over three years later. All 1,000 hand-numbered bottles sold out within three hours. Bimber puts its success down to handcrafted traditional techniques and the founders’ passion for single malt whisky.

The barley used here is grown on a single farm near Basingstoke and traditionally dried in Warminster

Maltings. It’s then hand-mashed and fermented slowly for seven days in wooden washbacks at Bimber. These washbacks were handmade by the company’s own coopers. This highly artisanal approach continues with direct fire being used to heat unusually small copper pot stills. Absolutely no computers come near the production process. Everything is based on the artisanal human senses of smell, taste and even touch.

The Oxford Artisan Distillery

Fifty miles north of Bimber along the A40 stands The Oxford Artisan Distillery, known locally as TOAD. TOAD is another new venture and one that burst on the market in 2017 with an excellent Oxford Dry Gin that used a picture of Mr Toad himself (as drawn by Ernest Shepard) on its label.

TOAD is the first legal distillery in Oxford and occupies a charming position in tatty old farm buildings at the top of Headington Hill. Its founder, Tom Nicolson was inspired to make a commitment to the ‘grainto-glass’ ethos of handcrafting gin, vodka and spirit of rye using grain specially grown for the distillery. To this end, the archaeo-botanist John Letts helped TOAD find and plant medieval heritage grains that were commonplace in England before the rise of industrialised agriculture.

After maturing in hand-selected casks – charred oak, bourbon, sherry and oloroso – this precious and reassuringly expensive whisky is bottled on-site. As far as is possible today, this is how whisky might have been made centuries ago.

In keeping with its self-consciously eccentric, not to say theatrical style, TOAD’s master distiller Cory Mason commissioned two very special steam-punk stills, named Nautilus and Nemo, like something out of Jules Verne, to do the work. These are now producing TOAD’s first whisky. It’s actually a pure rye whisky that costs £75 a bottle, the most expensive product from this ambitious distillery. Rye is thought by many to be the new direction for whisky in the 2020s. It has a distinctive taste and makes for great cocktails.

A visit to TOAD is always fun. Despite the company’s huge success they give the impression they’re a bunch of guys who like putting spirits together to see what happens.

‘A visit to TOAD is always fun. Despite the company’s huge success they give the impression they’re a bunch of guys who like putting spirits together to see what happens.’

Pictured clockwise from left: Casks at the Bimber Distillery; Farm grain; Oxford Rye whisky; Nemo – one of the stills inside The Oxford Artisan Distillery; Stills inside the Bimber Distillery

Cotswolds Distillery

A slicker – but equally welcoming – operation is at the Cotswolds Distillery, just south of Stratfordupon-Avon.

Dan Szor who built the distillery is a New Yorker who made a small fortune in the City of London and dearly wanted to create whisky from all those barley fields surrounding his Cotswold home. So in 2014 he opened this distillery, and its gin – with its lovely hints of lavender –became a quick success. Gin is a favourite start-up product for whisky producers because it provides a quick turnaround on investment.

This distillery is located in idyllic countryside in a new building constructed of local honey-coloured stone and richly seasoned wood.

It looks like a beautifully designed barn conversion. There is a shop and café, and a seductive tasting room with leather sofas that makes you feel that you’re staying in the spacious

country cottage of a very wealthy friend. No expense has been spared.

Upstairs are two more rooms, one for serious whisky tasting and one for gin. Cotswolds Single Malt Whisky is now available in several editions. There is the Single Malt, the Founder’s Choice, three single malts from flavoured casks – peated, sherry and Sauternes – and Lord Mayor's Single Reserve, which was blended for the 691st Lord Mayor of London, Peter Estlin who has been a keen supporter of the Cotswolds Distillery from its inception.

Scotland will always have the gravitas and will continue to dominate the market but it’s clear that English whisky is doing things the Scots have never dreamt of. Later this year an English Guild of Distillers will be launched to create a regulatory body to maintain quality and decide what we actually mean when we talk of an English Scotch. Whatever it decides in the world of whisky there is no doubt that the English are coming

YOU MIGHT ALSO ENJOY

Filey Bay Whisky

Yorkshire's first ever single malt whisky is created with 100% homegrown barley on the Hunmanby coast, at the Spirit of Yorkshire Distillery. There are views of beautiful Filey Bay from the distillery, and a unique field-to-bottle process is used. à spiritofyorkshire.com

And if you’re going to Scotland...

Johnnie Walker Princes Street

In Edinburgh a new eight-floor visitor experience has opened celebrating the world's best-selling Scotch. Johnnie Walker is a blended whisky dating from 1820. Scottish blends have been slightly overlooked since the meteoric rise of Single Malts at the end of the 20th century. But not any more. Johnnie Walker Princes Street is crowned by two superb rooftop bars –the Explorers' Bothy (for whisky-tasting experiences) and the 1820 Cocktail Bar (for food pairings).

à johnniewalker.com

‘Scotland will always have the gravitas... but it’s clear that English whisky is doing things the Scots have never dreamt of... and that the English are coming.’

Pictured left to right: Cotswolds Distillery; Cotswolds Single Malt Whisky

VIBRANT CITIES

TO VISIT THIS AUTUMN

Words | Emma O’Reilly

YOU CAN’T BEAT THE BUZZ

of a city. From boat-lined canals to grand palaces and sweeping countryside, Britain’s cities and their surrounding areas are packed with romantic charm, culture and history, offering something new and exciting to discover at every turn.

So if a walk through London’s ‘Little Venice’ or exploring ‘Mr Darcy’s’ grand estate near Manchester sound like dream getaways, here’s how to add a touch of enchantment to future city stays, whether exploring by foot, bike or on the water.

London’s canals and open-air theatres

Discover the capital’s tranquil side with an atmospheric autumnal walk along Regent’s Canal, just north of Paddington.

This nine-mile canal-side walk starts in picturesque Little Venice, continues past the historic locks to Camden Town and finishes in London Docklands. For some laid-back romance you could explore Regent’s Canal by boat. Options include Jason’s Trip, which has been delighting visitors since 1951, passing sights such as Regent’s Park, Cumberland Basin and Primrose Hill

This is the ideal time to visit one of our great cities. The summer crowds have dispersed and there’s always a cute café, diverting shop or fascinating museum beckoning you in, should the weather turn

along the way.

Or, book onto a quirkier walking tour to get under the skin of the city – an eating or cultural tour around Brick Lane and Spitalfields, one with a local architect around some of London’s more interesting buildings, a Sherlock Holmes or a Brit Movie tour, for example. With smallcarBIGCITY you can even enjoy a themed driving tour of your choice in a Classic Mini Cooper.

New cultural highlights for 2021 include the Alice: Curiouser and Curiouser exhibition at the V&A (until 31 December 2021) and the world’s largest touring exhibition of Banksy artworks is in the West End (until 21 November). As night falls, head to the award-winning Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre, with performances of classic plays, including Romeo & Juliet and Carousel (until 30 September).

Our top tip: Indulge in afternoon tea – whether you go glam at The Ritz or hip at Sketch.

Stay at: NoMad London, formerly Bow Street Magistrates Court, in Covent Garden, launched in the spring. We love the spectacular landscaped glass atrium used for dining.

Doubles from £383 per night, room only à thenomadhotel.com

Pictured clockwise from left: St Paul's cathedral; smallcar BIGCITY fleet of restored classic Mini Coopers; Glass atrium at NoMad Hotel London; Trafalgar Square; The National Gallery

Brighton’s Royal Pavilion and Country Park

Brighton is packed with romantic landmarks, many of which reveal the region’s royal connections. Future explorers can revel in the grandeur of the Royal Pavilion. Built in the 18th century for King George IV, it was subsequently used by King William IV and finally Queen Victoria. A Brighton institution, it is known as a beacon of luxury, awash with opulent treasures and topped with majestic domes. Visitors longing to explore this regal home can enjoy a virtual tour of the Royal Pavilion, before booking the real thing. The palace is currently furnished with over 120 remarkable decorative works of art on loan from Her Majesty the Queen. Originally commissioned by the Prince Regent, the items have been relocated from Buckingham Palace and reunited in their former home until January 2022. Our top tip: Longing for the great outdoors? Why not experience the romantic landscapes of Seven Sisters Country Park, part of the South Downs National Park. Marvel at the sprawling white cliffs, winding waterways and unspoilt grasslands.

Stay at: Artist Residence, a hotel encapsulating the spirit of a town into one building; creative, bohemian and downright eccentric. The 24-bedroom townhouse is at the head of Regency Square and each room is a riot of original artwork and local character. Doubles from £255 à artistresidence.co.uk

Manchester’s Gothic library and grand estate

Known for its impressive architecture, independent shops and trendy cafés, Manchester's buzzy metropolis has plenty of entertainment. Culture vultures and rain dodgers will enjoy the dedicated fashion section, launching in November, at Manchester Art Gallery. The first exhibition is on ‘dandy’ style (attention, Bridgerton fans).

More creative inspiration is on offer in the city’s Northern Quarter, crammed with independent clothes, jewellery and craft shops (don’t miss the multi-floored Affleck’s Palace), record stores, cafés and bars.

Pictured clockwise from above: Brighton’s Royal Pavilion; Manchester's Northern Quarter street art; Hallé St Peter’s, Ancoats, in Manchester's Northern Quarter

Our top tip: Take time to visit Lyme Park, an Italianate palace that became Mr Darcy’s grand residence in the BBC’s adaptation of Pride and Prejudice, just 20 miles south of the city centre.

The 1,400-acre estate is home to a large herd of deer, a lake and a fragrant rose garden. Jane Austen fans can also enjoy an atmospheric Pemberley walk, which takes in several picturesque filming locations.

There's also the new RHS Garden Bridgewater just outside the city – at 154 acres it’s Europe’s largest garden project, or the brand new ‘I’m a Celebrity…Jungle Challenge’ at MediaCityUK, with its fun challenges and trials. Stay at: Be one of the first to stay at the 10-floor Resident Hotel (formerly Nadler Hotels) within the brand new St John's Place development – an enormous neighbourhood on the former site of Granada Studios, incorporating residential homes, world-class hotels, a work space, intimate streets, lively courtyards and The Factory (billed as the North of England’s new flagship cultural venue) although the date of opening is still uncertain.

There's also Brewdog’s new hotel, DogHouse, the world’s first craft beer hotel. Doubles from £150 per night, including draft beer tap and beer fridge in shower. à residenthotels.com; stjohnsmanchester.com; brewdog.com

Wellness in Winchester

This well-heeled little place has all the ingredients for a wonderful weekend break. Winchester does tradition well, from its cavernous cathedral to its highly regarded independent school, Winchester College. History oozes from many other buildings. The Westgate Museum details the area’s Tudor and Stuart history and is housed in the last remaining medieval gateway into the city. The Great Hall, the only remaining part of Winchester Castle, is home to King Arthur’s legendary Round Table.

Just outside the city are a slew of stately homes, as is Jane Austen’s House in Chawton. History with a modern twist comes courtesy of a former silk mill, newly opened as Inn the Park in Winchester’s Abbey Gardens. The space combines an open grill restaurant, bar, café and wine room.

Our top tip: Jane Austen fans can also do a guided tour of Jane Austen’s Winchester.

Stay at: Lainston House Hotel, a 17th-century mansion

Exclusive Hotel, offering tennis, fishing and falconry.

Prices from £176 per room, per night

Or for location (walking distance of the city centre) you can't beat the very first Hotel du Vin, which is still providing luxury at a good price. Doubles from £99 per night, room only. à exclusive.co.uk; hotelduvin.com

Coventry City of Culture

You won’t mind getting sent here, especially as Coventry celebrates being UK City of Culture 2021 with art exhibitions and cultural events taking place throughout the year. Plus, look out out for The Show Windows – ambitious window installations designed by local architects – and specially commissioned street art. At the Herbert Art Gallery & Museum, a new exhibition ‘Hyper-Possible’ runs from October. Also here are paintings of bold local lass, Lady Godiva (a statue of her naked on a horse is on the street nearby). Coventry’s medieval cathedral was left devastated after World War II and a beautiful 20th-century replacement with abstract stained-glass windows sits alongside. It’s typical of the city, which was heavily bombed. Expect brutalist car parks alongside Tudor cottages – a heavenly hotchpotch. Our top tip: Coventry Music Museum (including the 2-Tone Village) is a must-visit for music fans

Stay at: The Telegraph Hotel, which opened in May is a conversion of the local newspaper offices.

Doubles from £67 per night, room only.

à telegraph-hotel.com

Pictured clockwise from left: Manchester's Lyme Park; Inn the Park at Winchester’s Abbey Gardens; Mural at 2-Tone Village, Coventry Music Museum, Coventry City Culture

St David’s

How can a village become a city? When it has a cathedral of course and the one in St David’s is large, given the tiny population. It’s a charming place, with historic sites, shops and restaurants – including the UK’s first insect restaurant, Grub Kitchen. There are also alternatives for those with more conventional appetites. It’s easy to potter away for many an hour, but what’s on the doorstep is worth exploring. St David’s is on the Pembrokeshire Peninsula, with magnificent coastline all around. In autumn and winter you’ll have it mostly to yourself for windswept walks or horse riding. Or why not wrap up in a wetsuit for some winter surfing?

Stay at: Twr y Felin – Wales’ first contemporary art hotel has just doubled in size. New rooms have balconies with views over St Bride’s Bay. Doubles from £200 per night. à twryfelinhotel.com

Our top tip: The night sky is often incredible in west Wales. If staying at Twr y Felin book a Star Gazing Hamper, which includes binoculars, torches, a constellations guidebook, camping chairs and a thermos of ‘tiddly’ hot chocolate.

A Royal weekend in Edinburgh

The place to start is Edinburgh Castle, the former royal residence and military base which sits atop Castle Rock. There’s lots to see inside and outside and there’s the bonus of 360-degree city views. Back in the Old Town, walk The Royal Mile to another regal residence, Holyrood House. The Royal Yacht Britannia, moored up in Leith, was the holiday home to the Queen for many years. Today it’s one of the best museums in the UK – and don't miss our competition to win tickets and a Champagne lunch on board for two (britishtraveljournal.com/competitions). Tea and scones in the onboard tearoom is a must.

You might also like to book a table at nearby Martin Wishart or The Kitchin, both Michelin-starred. By night, there are bars aplenty, and it would be rude not to try the local tipple at Whiski Rooms or The Scotch Whisky Society – choose from hundreds of rare single and blended malts and order some food to soak it all up.

Our top tip: Try to be at Edinburgh Castle for the one o’clock gun salute.

Stay at: The new Moxy Edinburgh Fountainbridge. It’s on the site of a famous brewery and has playful, slightly irreverent interiors plus a rooftop bar with great views. Doubles from £66 per night.

à marriott.com

Oxford’s colleges and museums

The city of ‘dreaming spires’ is famed for its illustrious university. The colleges with their quads, cloisters and gardens are mostly open to the public. Other amazing university buildings include The Bodleian Libraries –such as the circular, neoclassical Radcliffe Camera and Duke Humfrey’s Library, which doubled as the Hogwarts Library in the Harry Potter films.

Oxford is crammed with museums. Favourites include the Ashmolean, with everything from Egyptian mummies to modern art. Then there's The Pitt Rivers Museum: a quirky collection of treasures from around the world collected by one man on his travels.

Our top tip: Don’t miss the chance to hang out in a studenty waterhole. J.R.R. Tolkien and C.S. Lewis used to enjoy pints together at the Eagle & Child.

Stay at: The Randolph Hotel by Graduate – this grande dame of a hotel reopened in the summer under new ownership and with a ‘new old’ look. Doubles from £225 per night, bed and breakfast. à graduatehotels.com

Durham’s cathedral and rowing boats

The city has one of the UK’s most impressive cathedrals, perched imposingly over the River Wear. See it from the outside, inside and the top (brave the 137 steps up the Northwest Tower for worth-it views).

New this autumn is Museum of the Moon, a giant seven-metre sculpture that will hang from the ceiling of the cathedral, with atmospheric accompanying music.

You can hire rowing boats on the river until the end of September but most visitors are content to just wander the cobbled streets and do like the uni students by hanging out in the bars and cafés. Or, book in for some fine dining at Finnbars or The Cellar Door. There’s more nighttime entertainment during Lumiere Durham (18–21 November) with fantastical light installations and projections all over the city. It’s a great time to visit.

Our top tip: Go for a yomp in the Durham Dales to see the spectacular High Force waterfall.

Stay at: Hotel Indigo combines Victorian features with slick modern facilities. Doubles from £125 per night.

à hotelindigo.com

Pictured clockwise from bottom left: Pembrokeshire Peninsula; Twr y Felin Hotel; The Royal Yacht Britannia; Edinburgh Castle; The Randolph Hotel; Luke Jerram’s Museum of the Moon illuminates the nave at Ely Cathedral – and will be at Durham Cathedral this September 2021

48 HOURS IN...

EXETER

Words | Jessica

IT'S A GREAT FEELING to visit one of the UK's most up-and-coming cities as though you are just slightly ahead of the curve, discovering valuable insights as if somehow sneaking in there just before everyone else. That’s exactly how I felt touring and speaking to the locals on my recent weekend city break to Exeter. You've most probably travelled past this beautiful historic city (pre-dating the arrival of the Romans in AD 50) or passed through it while en-route to Devon and Cornwall, but perhaps dismissed it as your final destination? Hopefully, my description of time spent in this eco-conscious re-imagined city will encourage you to reconsider this as a wonderful city break with great food, culture and varied attractions. And it would seem I am not alone in my enthusiasm for the city – stylish brands, including glamorous restaurant chain The Ivy and luxury hotel chain IHG, have moved in too. Opposite the Cathedral overlooking the green, The Ivy has just opened following a refurbishment to Exeter’s landmark City Bank; it is the newest Ivy and first of its kind in Devon and Cornwall. Nearby, luxury hotel brand IHG has announced plans to open Hotel Indigo Exeter, complete with an urban spa and rooftop bar and lounge, housed in the former House of Fraser department store on the city’s High Street (opposite The White Company store).

Exeter is also home to Royal Clarence Hotel, described as England's oldest hotel. Located in Cathedral Yard, sadly this Grade-II listed, 53-bedroom hotel was severely damaged in a fire just over five years ago – the property has since been under the ownership of Andrew Brownsword Hotels and now James Brent of South West Lifestyle Brands, who are said to be undertaking restoration work to open a 74-bedroom hotel with reconstructed façades.

Thought holidays to Devon were mostly about seafood and beaches? Think again… it’s time to leave behind the beach towels and flip flops and prepare for a cultural citybreak like no other. Exeter might be small, but it is perfectly formed, with worldclass museums, excellent food, beautiful new hotels, historic streets, and picturesque waterways...

Way

Exeter is where Chris Martin from Coldplay was born, attending the city’s oldest school, Exeter Cathedral School while finding his passion for music, and where Harry Potter author JK Rowling went to University – one of the UK's elite Russell Group universities. Rugby fans will of course know all about the famous Exeter Chiefs, and might want to arrange a trip around 25 September this year, to watch them take on Northampton Saints in an English Premiership fixture. Foodies will love the annual Exeter Festival of South West Food & Drink, a real highlight in the year, although sadly postponed in 2021 due to the pandemic, but it plans to be back on next spring.

Whether visiting for the festive season (Exeter Cathedral Christmas Market will be running 18 November–18 December) or as a city break avoiding the crowded coastlines during the summer, Exeter is certain not to disappoint – I hope you enjoy my highlights...

Pictured clockwise from bottom left: The quaint historic estuary port of Topsham; views from the Exeter Cathedral rooftop guided tour; Exeter Cathedral, properly known as the Cathedral Church of Saint Peter; Jessica riding an e-bike through Exeter's historic Cathedral Yard; Harry's Restaurant in Longbrook Street

DAY ONE

Exeter is compact, revolving around the Cathedral and green in the heart of the city: Shops from the popular big names are in the neighbouring High Street and Princesshay precinct. The remains of the Medieval city walls, originally built by the Romans, and pretty cobbled streets, lead to the independent boutiques and trendy coffee shops in and around Gandy Street and the West Quarter.

Our visit coincided with the Cathedral restarting their rooftop guided tours, and Graham our steward couldn't have been a better tour host. The views over the city are incredible, but equally the behind-the-scenes architecture – from the flying buttress bridging to the wooden infrastructure inside the longest uninterrupted vaulted medieval ceiling in Europe – was fascinating.

We wandered across to the Cathedral Yard, where we enjoyed an al fresco lunch with views of the Cathedral at Eat on the Green. Previously this independently owned restaurant (by local Ben Mangan) was called Tea on the Green, but there is much more to his impressive, locally sourced menu than the previous name suggests –though don’t worry, Devon Cream Teas are still available!

It was a pleasure to meet Ben, a proud father of twins who also attended Exeter Cathedral School. He told us how his meat comes from the local Hele Farm (so close you can see it from the upstairs window), his beers and ciders from Devon and Cornwall brewers, and how pleased he was that we were highlighting Exeter.

“It really doesn’t get enough recognition, and is such a brilliant city. There’s a great atmosphere and sense of community here in Exeter," he said, crediting the many successful independent businesses, and the acceptance and togetherness of students and locals living and thriving together.

Following a delicious Waldorf salad and passion fruit smoothie, it was time to say a warm farewell and continue with our sightseeing adventures. Just a short walk away to the Civic Centre and we hired ‘on-demand’ e-bikes (co-bikes.co.uk) – a game-changer for cities like Exeter to attract tourists. For curious travellers with a desire for self-guided exploration, electric bike hire is just brilliant – especially in Exeter where there are quite a few hills!

The app is super easy to use, you unlock your bike with a code sent to your phone, pay by the hour and you don’t even have to return the bike to the station you collect it from – there are stops across the city, including at the two central train stations (Exeter St David’s and Exeter Central), Topsham and across the road from Exeter Works in Dix’s Field. It has also been made as safe as possible, with many cycle lanes, signage and traffic lights for cyclists throughout the city – which is not too big and daunting to navigate.

We spent a lovely afternoon in Topsham, a beautiful estuary town on the River Exe, with a rich maritime history. Visit Topsham Museum, housed in an elegant 17th-century Dutch-style merchant house, to find out more about the history of the town, or enjoy a glass of wine at one of the pubs overlooking the boats and paddleboarders before dinner, or watch the sunset from the famous Goat Walk.

For dinner, we visited Harry's Restaurant in Longbrook Street. This was a special highlight of our trip – as well as serving delicious food, Harry’s has a really great backstory. The architecture and interiors are beautiful – the property was formerly ‘Harry Hems’, a 19th-century architectural sculptors’ workshop (framed black-and-white photos of

the historic building and workshop are displayed on the old red brick Gothic-style interior walls) that dates back to 1883.

Following a renovation a couple of years ago, the interiors are sublime. Luxurious and modern, it’s more trendy Mayfair than busy Exeter – think: dark green and burnt oranges, regal leather sofas, tongue and groove panelling, parquet flooring, soft grey blankets, Cowshed toiletries, an abundance of hanging plants and elegantly dressed tables.

Simon and Annette Pounds opened the restaurant in 1993. Daughter, Samantha Pounds, took over the running of the business and is now at the helm. All four of her daughters (Phoebe, Zoe, Tigerlily and India) work alongside her, while also juggling successful careers, including in law and the Army. We were served by Amy, an Australian and close family friend of the Pounds. She was fantastic and clearly passionate about the restaurant. She told us the team were “inseparable” and once included British singer-songwriter Will Young (before he won Pop Idol).

Menu highlights include a mouthwatering selection of dryaged steaks sourced from local suppliers, Darts Farm Butchers, locally caught fish of the day and Devon crab linguine. I opted for their toasted brioche lobster roll and it was absolutely delightful. Elderflower sorbet completed the experience and it was time to get some rest, ready for the next day.

We were thrilled with a Deluxe room at Hotel du Vin Exeter, a city oasis within walking distance of both the Cathedral and Quay. The grand 19th-century building formerly housed the West of England Eye Hospital and has beautifully landscaped historic walled gardens with a circular lawn, an outdoor swimming pool, spa and contemporary bedroom decor – an ideal base for exploring the city.

‘For curious travellers with a desire for self-guided exploration, electric bike hire is just brilliant – especially in Exeter where there are quite a few hills!’

DAY TWO

Feeling more at home with the city centre we decided to head down to Exeter’s waterfront quay for a day by the river. We made our way down Stepcote Hill, Exeter’s oldest surviving street, passing the pretty half-timbered houses. At the bottom on West Street you’ll be greeted by the curiosity that is The House that Moved – a fascinating three-storey timber-framed merchant's house, which quite literally was moved from its original home at the corner of Edmund Street and Frog Street. Also in this area is St Mary Steps Church, of 12th-century origin with an amazing early-17th-century Matthew the Miller clock with figures that strike the hour.

At the quayside there are many places to grab a coffee or to browse quirky independent shops for a gift to take home. Feeling ready for an adventure, we hired some stand-up paddleboards from AS Watersports (the place to go for kayaks, canoes, paddleboards and more). In addition to the hire, they offer tuition and have a huge showroom filled with kayaks and equipment for sale – everything you need to get on the water and experience watersports.

For lunch, we headed to On the Waterfront – famous for their dustbin-lid pizzas, they also serve great tapas and offer a really good selection of locally sourced beers, wines and spirits.

Having been so impressed with our e-bikes from the day before we decided to go for a bike ride along the river, passing the Climbing Centre on Exeter Quay – the South West's largest, dedicated indoor climbing wall. Had there been time and energy left in our legs we definitely would have stopped for a quick bouldering session. We soon reached the Double Locks traditional country pub located on the banks of the 16th-century Ship Canal. You can’t beat the location! They have a huge beer garden with areas covered and heated, so perfect for keeping socially distanced.

That evening we stopped for food at Pieminister – set up almost 20 years ago by friends Tristan Hogg and Jon Simon after travelling around Australia in their early twenties, where they found themselves eating pies every day. They came home full of determination to reinvigorate the humble British pie.

In 2003 they set up shop in Stokes Croft, Bristol. Soon they had a stall at London’s famous Borough Market, then a pitch at Glastonbury. They have grown over the years, and now employ around 300 people, but they still make all their pies in their Bristol kitchens – and are themselves still eating pies every day! Don't miss their Bottomless Lunches, where you have an hour and a half to enjoy brunch pies with unlimited Prosecco or cocktails.

However you choose to spend your time in Exeter, the city is ready to welcome you with open arms, and there are plenty of green and open outdoor spaces, making it is easy to explore safely. From the city’s rich history to the many beautiful cycle trails and miles of meandering waterways, whether on bike, foot, kayak or ferry there’s a surprise waiting at every turn.

Jessica was a guest of Visit Exeter and Hotel du Vin

visitexeter.com

18th-century

Pictured below: Jessica parks and locks her electric bike from a code sent through the app; Double Locks

inn with outdoor seats by the canal locks

“We soon reached the Double Locks traditional country pub located on the banks of the 16th century Ship Canal. You can’t beat the location!”

FOODIE BREAK Escape to the City

STAYING IN A LUXURY HOTEL IN EXETER, EATING OUT AT HARRY’S AND ROCKFISH!

EXETER IS ENJOYING A FOOD and drink revolution with more and more great eating establishments and international menus.

There are cafés and teashops in charming historic buildings, bistros with great views, and independent restaurants serving top quality Devon produce. Head to Princesshay or Queen St Dining for plenty of choice of eateries serving international cuisines. If you’re eating on the go, there are delicatessens and markets offering seasonal local food –pick up a delicious pie or pasty from the Exeter Farmers Market every Thursday, or experience the vibrant colours and flavours of the Guildhall Street Food Market every weekend and the regular Exeter Street Food Night Markets on the quayside.

There are also popular annual markets and foodie events in the city, such as the annual Exeter Festival of South West Food & Drink. Many of Exeter’s pubs have been serving visitors and locals for hundreds of years – you can taste real ales and fine wines in the historic pubs around the Cathedral Yard and High Street, reputed to have once been frequented by Sir Francis Drake and Charles Dickens. There are also smart wine bars in the city, nestled among independent boutiques. Topsham, just four miles from Exeter, also is a must for food lovers. From award-winning Portuguese bakers to fish restaurants and a barbeque smokehouse, there’s food for every occasion, and to celebrate we are offering you the chance to win a two-night stay to experience the delights yourself.

COMPETITION WIN A FOODIE BREAK TO EXETER

Indulge yourself at some of Exeter’s most renowned restaurants, with this fantastic foodie break... Experience Exeter’s 2,000 years of history, beautiful quayside, and top eateries serving the best of Devon’s food and drink.

THE PRIZE INCLUDES

 A two-night stay with breakfast at the Jury’s Inn Exeter

 Lunch or dinner at the wonderful Harry’s Restaurant

 Lunch or dinner at seafood restaurant Rockfish, Exeter

HOW TO ENTER à visitexeter.com/ foodiebreak

EDINBURGH’S FOOD

SCENE has been inspirational to watch over the past decade – a flurry of independent restaurants with boundarypushing chefs showcasing Scotland’s finest home-grown produce. It’s an easily walkable capital city, and diving down into quirky whisky dens or up to cosy rooftops to admire the dramatic spires of its Old Town makes for memorable barhopping too. The buzz around some of its new openings should not be underestimated. Book well in advance to secure these hot spots for your next long weekend away.

Superico Bar and Lounge

Open since 22 July 2021, the 180-seater Superico Bar and Lounge has been wowing Edinburgh’s New Town with its bold Latin-Americaninfluenced flavours and Art Deco design (superico. com/#99). Settling into a bright yellow booth, it’s not difficult to see why it’s been shortlisted for an award in the Bar, Club & Lounge category at the Hospitality Design Awards (held in New York in September 2021). A massive light feature, not unlike a gleaming full moon, dangles over the entrance, and the room practically glows with a vibrant sleekness.

Scotland’s capital has come to life after months of pandemic hibernation, and the delicious news for visitors is that there are some brand new dining and drinking establishments to welcome them.

Karyn Noble is just back from Edinburgh with the inside scoop for your next getaway...

Indulge in house-pressed chips (70 fine layers of potato, no less!) with chipotle crema or dulce de leche doughnuts while sipping on a Smoked Peach Fizz (Chivas Regal

Mizunara, Del Maguey

Mezcal, Creme de Peche, Earl Grey tea, lemon and soda) or a freezer-fresh Padrón Martini from a drinks list that spans cocktails, spritzes and frappés (all designed by Edinburgh mixologist Mike Lynch), as well as a tidy collection of spirits and liqueurs, alongside nonalcoholic offerings.

Casablanca Cocktail Club

It might sound like a drinking destination, but Casablanca Cocktail Club (casablancacocktailclub.com) is actually the name of the new restaurant for Edinburgh’s oh-so-extravagant

House of Gods Hotel (houseofgodshotel.com).

Since it opened in September 2019, the hotel quickly became known for its lavish OrientExpress style rooms and the ‘Treat Me Like I’m Famous’ experience (press a button to summon your butler for cocktails, midnight milk-andcookies, Prosecco, a breakfast hamper with Mimosas).

Casablanca Cocktail Club is, unsurprisingly, not at all restrained. “It’s as decadent and opulent as House of Gods is,” says Co-Owner and Director Mike Baxter, from a Gucci-wallpapered room with a gold mirror ball on the ceiling. “Everything we do is the extreme of fantasy. I love this hedonistic idea of you come for dinner but end up dancing on the tables.”

Open since 16 September 2021, the restaurant serves 40 covers (think: thrones for chairs) with bar space for 40 guests, as well as a private

dining area for up to 16 people. From head chef Andrew Logie (formerly of Edinburgh’s Galvin Brasserie de Luxe) expect such indulgences as gold-leaf Wagyu burgers served on Versace plates, cheese-and-truffle pizzas, as well as scallops-stuffed chicken wings marinated in Dom Perignon.

Rooftop 51

It doesn’t get more meta than looking at a slide of a cocktail called ‘Edinburgh’ through a retro Viewfinder, ordering it, then sipping on it from a rooftop bar while looking at Edinburgh Castle (instagram. com/rooftop). This is Rooftop 51, where you’ll find a whole new viewing perspective atop the Moxy Hotel in Fountainbridge (marriott.co.uk): new brewerythemed accommodation on the western side of the city. “Most visitors haven’t seen this side of Edinburgh before,” says Craig Aitchison, Assistant Captain at

Pictured top left then clockwise: Superico Bar and Lounge; Casablanca Cocktail Club's Gold-leaf Wagyu burger and Sushi Maki Crab

The Moxy, as he brings some ‘Wee Plates’ from the tapas menu (spanning everything from Baked Mac n Cheese Bites to a Vanilla & Toffee Honey Pot). While the bar (open since May 2021) is named after the 51 different types of beer available (the hotel is on the former Fountainbridge Brewery site, after all), there’s also eight internationally themed cocktails and a short wine list. If the tartan blankets on the rooftop terrace aren’t enough protection against the chill, you can bring your drinks indoors to the inhouse cinema where there’s the occasional theme night (James Bond was a recent favourite) and popcorn in a variety of wacky flavours.

Rico’s Ristorante

An incredibly elegant addition to Edinburgh’s restaurant lineup, Rico’s is where modern Italy meets top Scottish produce in a sexy 56-cover space (ricosristorante. co.uk). Consider freshly made pappardelle with a ragù of organic rose veal (from Peelham farm in the Scottish Borders) and generous shaves of black truffle; or an exquisite risotto with East coast crab, shellfish bisque, chilli and coriander from 25-year-old chef Stefano Pieraccini. Open since 9 July 2021 and named after Stefano’s grandfather (Enrico Pieraccini), Rico’s has been extremely popular with the Scots-Italian locals, but there’s also a dedicated space for 20 to sit for

a drink (there are three different types of Negronis, just saying) without any obligation to dine, though you may find the genuine warmth from the staff will tempt you to linger over Mortadella

Gnocco Fritto or 24 Month

Proscuitto San Daniele from the Bar Menu.

If the main venue in Edinburgh’s New Town is fully booked during your visit, you can also sample their pasta from a dedicated stand at Bonnie & Wild Marketplace in the new St James Quarter.

Darnley’s Gin Experience

If you’ve always dreamt of making your own gin at a tutored tasting session, then this is the place to do it. Darnley’s Gin have ventured out of their home in Fife and opened a pop-up store right in the centre of Edinburgh in June 2021 (darnleysgin.com/ pages/gin-experience). Over the course of 90 minutes, you’ll be guided through the history of their distillery while also tasting three of their delicious gins. You’ll then be presented with all manner of botanicals to sniff and select, as well as guidance notes and a flavour wheel, to create your own gin to take home (along with a Darnley’s blend). If you’re impressed by your own recipe, Darnley’s will even keep your bespoke blend on file and

Pictured left to right: Rico’s Ristorante; Darnley’s Gin Experience; the new St James Quarter

you can order bottles anytime. But if this all sounds like too much work, you can just order a G&T at the bar and sip it from the terrace outside. While it looks like a permanent store, the Gin Experience is in place until the end of March 2022 at this stage, though popularity may mean it becomes an Edinburgh fixture. Let’s hope!

Cold Town Brewery Tours

If you fancy castle views while learning more about craft beer, then Cold Town Brewery more than delivers (coldtownhouse.co.uk/cold-townbrewery-tours). Since July 2021, small guided tours have started at their popular microbrewery. Over the course of an hour, you can learn more about the tank-to-tap process from one of the brewers, taste four of the range then decide on your favourite (whether that be a Cold Town Lager, a juicy New England IPA, or seasonal brews, such as the Pornstar Martini Ale or the Chocolate Cake Stout). Then settle in with your pint and a stone-baked Neapolitan pizza either on the roof terrace, the Grassmarket outdoor area, the Pizza & Prosecco Floor or within the Brewhouse; either way, it’s highly likely your views will be pleasingly turret-topped and medieval. And if you can’t see Edinburgh castle and want to remind yourself that you’re in Scotland, order the Holyrood pizza, which has a peppercorn sauce base, crispy bacon, fior de latte, Mull Cheddar…and yes, Chieftain haggis.

ST JAMES QUARTER

Don’t miss this extraordinary £1 billion development in the centre of Edinburgh, one of the largest regeneration projects in the UK. Sixteen years in the making, and after five years of construction, the first phase of the St James Quarter opened to the public on 24 June 2021 (stjamesquarter.com). Much more than a multi-level shopping galleria (it even has its own tartan, not to mention a W Hotel opening in 2022), it offers a broad range of dining experiences.

“Level 1 is family favourites,” says Rochelle Weir, Brand and Marketing Director for St James Quarter. “We have (an area known as) Leith St Eats; in there we have Five Guys, Tortilla, and Maki & Ramen, which is a local business. Level 2 is high street and fashion brands. Level 3 you have aspirational brands and high end names… Level 4 is more of a night-time economy: you can shop until 8 o’clock, come here

and eat and drink. We’ve got The Alchemist coming on in autumn, which is a cocktail bar with different food offerings. And also Bonnie & Wild. We should have around 30 restaurants and bars.” It would be easy enough to meet all your gourmet needs in Bonnie & Wild Marketplace alone (bonnieandwildmarket. com). It’s no mere food court, though it’s certainly possible to perch at a table (there’s space for 700 diners) and order coffee, cakes, pasta and pizza. This marketplace features some unique independent Scottish traders in their first-ever stalls (CHIX) alongside bigger names (Masterchef winner Gary Maclean’s first solo venture). There’s MacDuff’s butchers for all your take-away meat needs, a bottle shop, a private events space, a demo kitchen, a living moss wall, photos from the Scottish Landscape Photographer of the Year Awards…don’t be surprised to see a queue to get in.

HOW TO ENTER

SIMPLY SEND YOUR COMPLETED CROSSWORD (OR THE ANSWERS) AND YOUR POSTAL ADDRESS, BY POST TO BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL, UNIT 6, BASEPOINT, ANDERSONS ROAD, SOUTHAMPTON, SO14 5FE, OR EMAIL THE ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD@BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM

We're reading... BOOKSHELF

AN ETTINGER CAPRA PASSPORT COVER & LUGGAGE TAG WORTH £165 (AVAILABLE FROM ETTINGER.CO.UK ) WILL BE SENT TO THE THE FIRST CORRECT ENTRANT RECEIVED THIS ISSUE!

ACROSS

1 Home to the Arms Park stadium (7)

5 --- Manor Garden, known for lavender (7)

9 Noel Coward's --- Spirit (6)

10 Wild and wet activity (8)

11 Company interested in cars and stars (8)

12 Cathedral and University city (6)

13 Jane Austen's last complete novel (10)

16 "G.I. Jane" star --- Moore (4)

17 Exercise for the flexible (4)

19 Airport vehicle (7,3)

21 In the second-best category (5,1)

23 Thynne home and safari park (8)

25 Dominant part of the brain (8)

26 City of dreaming spires (6)

27 London theatre (7)

28 Kind of manner (7)

DOWN

2 Throughout history (3-4)

3 Type of treat (5)

4 Lives off others (9)

6 Like some college walls (5)

7 "The other place", to denizens of 26 Across (9)

8 Record deck part (4,3)

10 Many a Saudi (5,6)

14 Cornish beer and clay town (2,7)

15 Bottom line, after tax and outgoings (3,6)

18 Peanut or castor bean, for example (7)

20 Not broadcast (7)

22 Devon hotel island (5) 24 Elevates (5)

Answers will be printed in the Spring 2022 Issue out 4 September

Worlds in Shadow: Patrick tells the stories of sunken land off the coast of the Isle of Man where ‘sailors assert that they frequently hear cattle lowing, dogs barking, beneath the waves’, Bloomsbury, £16.99 | The Book Lover’s Bucket List: A Tour of Great British Literature by Caroline Taggart, British Library, £16.99 | The Way of the Tortoise: Matt Little, part of the team that saw Andy Murray win Olympic gold, shares his philosophy on exactly why taking it slow and steady is the best way to approach things, O’Mara Books, £14.99 | Hand Luggage Only: Travel guide to Great Britain from the guys behind award-winning blog of the same name, Hardie Grant, £20

ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 09 | SUMMER 2021

ACROSS: 9 Ocean view 10 Soham 11 Balsa 12 MacGregor 13 Hackfall

14 Annoys 15 Upton-upon-Severn 19 Europe 20 Dwindled 23 In a flurry

25 Sikhs 27 Lento 28 Prurience DOWN: 1 AONB 2 Belloc 3 In half 4 Film clip

5 IWSC 6 Estrange 7 The Globe 8 Imprisoned 13 Hauteville 16 Terrains

17 Napoleon 18 No Way Out 21 Nessie 22 Liking 24 RSPB 26 Seep