B R I T I S H T R AV E L JOURNAL BritishTravelJournal.com
small island big heart CORONAVIRUS: WE LOOK AT HOW THIS INCREDIBLE NATION HAS RESPONDED TO ONE OF ITS TOUGHEST CHALLENGES
S U M M E R 2 0 2 0 | I S S U E 06
CITY | COAST | COUNTRY
the rise of the staycation
FROM IDYLLIC SECRET ISLANDS TO EXPLORING ENGLAND'S NEW COASTAL ROUTE AND FINDING YOUR PERFECT HOLIDAY HOME
WIN
a two-night stay in Padstow, Cornwall with Rick Stein
£6.75
beautiful destinations • michelin star restaurants • hotels & SPAS • experiences • adventures • travel news
Escape with Confidence Re-Opening 4th July 2020 The Lygon Arms, High Street, Broadway WR12 7DU 01386 852255 I www.lygonarmshotel.co.uk
CONTRIBUTIONS
BRITISH
TRAVEL
J O U R N A L BritishTravelJournal.com editors Editor-in-chief Jessica Way F E A T U R E S E D I T O R Samantha Rutherford C H I E F S U B - E D I T O R Angela Harding expert contributors Melanie Abrams Chantal Borciani Helen Holmes Emma Johnson Adrian Mourby Emma O’Reilly Lydia Paleschi Adrienne Wyper FRONT COVER IMAGE St Ives, Cornwall ©VisitBritain/Tomo Brejc FEATURE CHOICE Small Island, Big Heart p20 Published by
CONTISTA MEDIA Mitchell House, Brook Avenue, Warsash, Southampton, SO31 9HP MAIN SWITCHBOARD
01489 660680 contistamedia.co.uk stay in touch
BritishTravelJournal BTravelJournal BritishTravelJournal
Proud to be in partnership with stage 3 - B&W detailed logo
WELCOME
A
S WE WENT TO PRINT with our last issue never could we have imagined a world in which travel would be completely stopped in its tracks. Never again will we take for granted our freedom to visit our magnificent cityscapes, captivating coastlines and peaceful countryside. It has been a difficult year for the hospitality and travel sector, but as this issue of British Travel Journal shows many are beginning to reopen, delighted to welcome back visitors and guests once more. We speak to these resilient hoteliers, destination managers, and others in the UK tourism industry about how they have responded to COVID-19, Small Island, Big Heart (p20). Our Cultural Agenda (p11) takes on a new direction, exchanging theatre performances for outdoor art, sculptures and natural wonders. And, in a time when remote locations are being sought after, all you need to know about wild (and nearly wild) camping is covered in our Sustainable Travel series (p34). If camping isn’t for you, help is at hand to find the perfect holiday home in our 10 of the Best Self-Catering Properties (p40). If you’re dreaming of strolls along the shore, fresh sea air and gently lapping waves, then you will love our coastal specials; Revival of the Beach Hut (p46), England’s Coast (p54), Wild Swimming (p80) and Secret Islands (p58). Enjoy a taste of Cornwall in our Interview with Rick Stein (p76) before heading to the beach workshop of wooden bellyboards in our Meet the Maker: Wave Rider article with Dick Pearce (p70). Finally, thank you to all our subscribers for your support, keeping our spirits high with words of encouragement and understanding the unusual delay in receiving this issue. Together we continued to dream of the extraordinary places we can explore, staying inspired with online and digital features, and hopefully by the time of reading this issue our next great adventures will have become reality. Travel safely, and together we will continue to support our wonderful tourism industry. u
Jessicax Jessica Way Editor -In-Chief
THE NEW TRADITION
RESEIGH FOOKS BRAND AND PACKAGING DESIGN CLIENT: NOBLE ISLE STAGE 3 29th June 2011
Contista Media Ltd cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited submissions, manuscripts and photographs. While every care is taken prices and details are subject to change and Contista Media Ltd take no responsibility for omissions or errors. We reserve the right to publish and edit any letters. All rights reserved.
PICTURED ABOVE: JESSICA RUNNING 100K CHALLENGE, RAISING OVER £300 FOR THE NHS COVID-19 URGENT APPEAL
BritishTravelJournal.com
3
Multi-million pound refurbishment completed in May 2020
Walking distance from many iconic landmarks
Strand Palace is surrounded by the best London has to offer. Set in the heart ofthe London, hotel is merefrom moments the heart of London, hotel isthe mere moments Coventfrom Garden, Covent Garden, Trafalgar Square and the Thames, making it for Trafalgar Square and the Thames, making it the perfect location the perfect location for discovering cultural icons. discovering cultural icons.
WTTC Safe Travel Accredited - Covid-19 secure
Experience The Heart of London
BOOK DIRECT ONLINE AT www.strandpalacehotel.co.uk
+44 (0)20 7379 4737 | info@strandpalacehotel.co.uk 372 Strand, London WC2R 0JJ
@strandpalace
CONTENTS SUMMER 2020 | ISSUE 06
20
34
11 C O M P E T I T I O N
79
WIN A LUXURY TWO NIGHT STAY IN PADSTOW... Courtesy of Rick Stein we are offering one lucky winner, and their guest, two nights’ accommodation at St Petroc’s, a three-course dinner at The Seafood Restaurant and a one-day course at Rick Stein’s award-winning Cookery School in Padstow. IMAGE (P34) ©VISITBRITAIN/ANDREW PICKETT
JOTTINGS
09 11 39
TRAVEL NEWS
A look at what’s new and travel noteworthy in the British Isles
CULTURAL AGENDA
Outdoor art, monuments, exhibitions and museums to visit after lockdown
HEALTH
Keep your mind and body feeling well with our unmissable selection of healthy travel destinations and gadgets
40
10 OF THE BEST SELFCATERING PROPERTIES
Find your perfect holiday home from our selection of some of the UK's finest properties, available from self-catering travel specialists
F E AT U R E S
20 28 34
SMALL ISLAND, BIG HEART
46
REVIVAL OF THE BEACH HUT
Discover how this incredible nation has responded to one of its toughest challenges
STILL WINES RUN DEEP
English still wine used to be the poor relation but it’s fast catching up its sparkling sister
SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL
In this issue we cover wild (and nearly wild) camping. Discover remote camping places doing their utmost to tread lightly on the planet As much part of the great British seaside as piers and Punch & Judy – we look at how a simple seaside storage shed became a covetable coastal property
BritishTravelJournal.com
à
5
54 LIFESTYLE
70
MEET THE MAKER: WAVE RIDER
Beautiful, hand-crafted wooden bellyboards are being produced at a seaside workshop. We head for the beach to meet the man behind the board…
76
INTERVIEW WITH: RICK STEIN
Award-winning chef Rick Stein talks Cornish beaches, cooking inspiration and becoming Padstow’s biggest attraction
EDITOR LOVES
The Triumph Trekker GT - the first E-bicycle to be launched by iconic British brand, Triumph Motorcycles, world-famous for making motorcycles. Priced £2,950 triumphmotorcycles.co.uk
80
WILD SWIMMING
84
STEPPING ON SET
As your senses heighten and your mind calms, feel the benefits of connecting to nature by immersing yourself in the outdoors and soaking up its awe-inspiring beauty Discover historic houses and wild landscapes that have inspired directors and cinematic moments in the UK
70
C OA STA L
54
ENGLAND'S COAST
Soon we will be able to lace up our boots and amble or ramble absolutely anywhere along the English coastline
58
SECRET ISLANDS
The British Isles has some 6,000 islands to explore – some fully fledged tourist hotspots, others mere dots in the ocean. All have a story to tell
94
VIEW OF THE SEA
Multi-award winning Landal Gwel an Mor resort offers the ultimate in luxury coastal breaks, providing five star lodges in a spectacular Cornish location
S U B S C R I B E
52
SUBSCRIBE TODAY
Receive three issues of British Travel Journal, and the ultimate luxury travel essential from Noble Isle worth over £20, for just £19! B R I T I S H T R AV E L JOURNAL BritishTravelJournal.com
S U M M E R 2 0 2 0 | I S S U E 06
CITY | COAST | COUNTRY
B R I T I S H T R AV E L
small island big heart CORONAVIRUS: WE LOOK AT HOW THIS INCREDIBLE NATION HAS RESPONDED TO ONE OF ITS TOUGHEST CHALLENGES
the riseJ O U R N A L of the staycation
FROM IDYLLIC SECRET ISLANDS AU T U M N TO EXPLORING ENGLAND'S NEW COASTAL ROUTE AND FINDING CITY | COAST | YOUR COUNTRY PERFECT HOLIDAY HOME
2019 | ISSUE 03
BritishTravelJournal.com
WIN
take a journey
EDINBURGH TO THE CALEDONIAN FOREST
a two-night stay in Padstow, Cornwall with Rick Stein
taste a destination
AUTUMN FORAGING HOLIDAYS
Interview
raymond blanc
CELEBRATES TWO BIG MILESTONES THIS YEAR
WIN
£6.75 £5.00
beautiful destinations • michelin star restaurants • hotels & sPas • exPeriences • adventures • travel news EVENTS ■ IDYLLIC DESTINATIONS ■ MICHELIN STAR RESTAURANTS
6
BritishTravelJournal.com
a luxury short break for two in Exeter!
■ LUXURY HOTELS ■ NEW EXPERIENCES
Luxury free gift
WORTH OVER
£20!
Coach House, Hampshire
Find your special place From quintessential cottages and country houses to quirky windmills and lighthouses.
A portfolio of over 550 luxury, self-catering holiday properties in the UK and Ireland. View the properties
ruralretreats.co.uk Call for our 2020 brochure
01386 897 959
THE GREAT BRITISH ESCAPE!
S T O K E PA R K Stoke Park is a luxury 5 AA Red Star Hotel, Spa and Country Club set within 300 acres of beautiful parkland and offers world-class sporting and leisure facilities.
FACILITIES INCLUDE: • 49 Bedrooms and Suites • Award winning Spa • 27 hole Championship Golf Course • David Leadbetter Golf Academy • 3 Restaurants and Bars, including Humphry’s (3 AA Rosettes) • 13 Tennis Courts (indoor, grass and artificial clay) • 2 Padel Courts • Indoor Pool • State-of-the-art Gym with Fitness, Hot Yoga and Spinning Studios hosting up to 50 classes per week • Tinies Kids Club and Crèche • Games Room • Playground
Only 30 minutes from London, and a short drive from both Windsor and Heathrow Airport. For Hotel Reservations please call 01753 717171 or email reservations@stokepark.com Stoke Park, Park Road, Stoke Poges, Buckinghamshire SL2 4PG | www.stokepark.com
T R AV E L N E W S WHAT 'S NEW
Destinations | Renovations | Launches | Celebrations
GOOD NEWS FOR ENGLISH SPARKLING WINE Nyetimber has a new vineyard in Kent. 195,000 vines have been planted, said to increase production by 220,000 bottles!
A NEW ISLAND JEWEL IN PLYMOUTH SOUND The historic Drake’s Island located just 600m from the Plymouth shoreline is set to be brought back to life by the new owner, Plymouth-based businessman, Morgan Phillips, who is developing the island into a luxury (25 bedroom) hotel and spa resort. The six-acre island, named after Sir Francis Drake, who set sail from the island in 1577 to circumnavigate the globe, will offer locals and tourists the o pportunity for their own island adventures, staying in the Grade II listed former Governor’s Island House, exploring hidden tunnels and f orgotten buildings. drakes-island.com
THE HEART OF EDINBURGH Originally built in the 16th century, Abbey Strand, located at the foot of Edinburgh’s historic Royal Mile, on the doorstep of the Palace of Holyroodhouse, has re-opened its doors, five hundred years on! Prices from £199 per night. lateralcity.com
BRITISH TRAVEL
J O U R N A L
LOVES 2020
NEW LAUNCH
HEARTS & CRAFTS
CUMBRIA’S HIDDEN COAST
Work is underway on a new 40-mile coastal challenge recreational route, stretching along the Cumbrian coast from Whitehaven to Millom with adrenalin activities, cycling and art installations. visitlakedistrict.com
BEACH HOLIDAY IN SUSSEX
For magnificent sea views look no further than a stay at Skyfall, with its elevated position on the cliffs of St Leonards-on-Sea, private terrace and hot tub. Prices start from £1,428 for a three-night stay. oliverstravels.com
Cotswolds Hearts & Crafts Sauternes Cask Single Malt Whisky is the distillery’s first ever European Oak Cask expression. £74.95 cotswolds distillery.com
BritishTravelJournal.com
9
5 JULY 2020 TO 3 JANUARY 2021
GP_MARCH_HALF—1.indd 1
19/02/2020 11:20
COLORADO HIGH CBD GIN
Ta k i n g g i n t o n e w h e i g h t s A deliciously refreshing citrusy gin, suffused with 200mg of CBD to deliver a deep sense of calm and wellbeing.
www.silentpooldistillers.com
C U LT U R A L A G E N D A Outdoor Art | Sculptures | Natural Wonders Words | Melanie Abrams
IMAGE CREDITS: © ENGLISH HERITAGE TRUST; VISITSCOTLAND/KENNY LAM; NORTHERN IRELAND TOURIST BOARD; HISTORIC ENGLAND; VISIT BRITAIN; NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES; SHUTTERSTOCK; THE SINGING RINGING TREE, VISITLANCASHIRE; VISITWILTSHIRE; WALT DISNEY STUDIOS MOTION PICTURES UK
WE LOVE
Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge Built by fishermen in 1755, this 20 metre rope bridge links Northern Ireland’s mainland in Ballintoy to the tiny ancient volcanic island of Carrick-a-Rede (from the Scottish Gaelic Carraig-a-Rade meaning The Rock in the Road). Dolphins, porpoise and even large sharks can be spotting swimming off the coast, whilst nearby Rathlin Island has one of Britain’s largest seabird colonies including puffins. nationaltrust.org.uk/carrick-a-rede
à For safety during the coronavirus (Covid-19) pandemic, please check Government guidelines and relevant websites before visiting
WHAT WE’RE DISCOVERING
Gallos Statue High on the Cornish cliffs at Tintagel Castle stands the regal bronze Gallos statue by Rubin Eynon. (Gallos meaning power in Cornish.) The tall hooded figure holding a sword is inspired by the royals associated with this medieval castle – notably King Arthur, one of Britain’s most famous figures, who, according to a 12th century writer, was conceived there. english-heritage.org.uk
The Kelpies The Scottish lowland town of Falkirk is the home of The Kelpies, two ginormous horse head statues. Looming above the Forth and Clyde canal in The Helix parkland, the 30 metre high Kelpies, which during a paid tour you can go inside, have become the world’s largest equine statues. Made by Scottish sculptor, Andy Scott from 36,000 steel pieces, the horses were inspired by the Clydesdale draught horses used for haulage along the canal or on land. thehelix.co.uk
Stonehenge With its 4,500 year old stone circle, Stonehenge on Salisbury Plain is one of world’s most famous prehistoric monuments. On 21 June (the longest day) the sun rises on the isolated Heel Stone and sets on the shortest day, linking the iconic landmark to the stars or to a temple to sun and moon gods. See how the circle’s creators lived at the reconstructed Neolithic thatched huts nearby. english-heritage.org.uk
Giant’s Causeway Volcanic activity many millennia ago created the hexagonal black basalt columns at Giant’s Causeway on the Northern Irish north coast of County Antrim, although legend has it that an Irish giant, Finn McCool built it as a bridge to Scotland. Over the years, the columns have taken on unusual shapes like chimney stacks or even a giant’s boot. Also worth spotting at this UNESCO World Heritage Site are the seabirds, crab and rare plants which live here too. nationaltrust.org.uk/giants-causeway
12
BritishTravelJournal.com
IMAGES LEFT (CLOCKWISE): GALLOS STATUE; AERIAL VIEW OF GIANT'S CAUSEWAY; GIANT'S CAUSEWAY; STONEHENGE; AND THE KELPIES. ABOVE: REPAINTED SMEATON'S TOWER. BELOW: THE BOX AND AN ELIZABETHAN HOUSE, PLYMOUTH
SPOTLIGHT ON: P LY M O U T H
Smeaton’s Tower Best known as the legendary place where Sir Francis Drake played bowls before sailing to defeat the Spanish Armada in 1588, Plymouth Hoe is home to the Grade I listed red and white landmark, Smeaton’s Tower. Walk up its 93 steps for views over Plymouth Sound and the city. Originally situated on Eddystone Rocks, off Cornwall, the lighthouse has been on the Hoe since 1884 and repainted in its traditional red and white colours this year. Modelled on the shape of an oak tree that bent with the wind, John Smeaton’s 1759 tower was a radical lighthouse design of its day. plymhearts.org/smeatons-tower
The Box Plymouth’s history merges at The Box. Redeveloped from the Plymouth Museum and Art Gallery and Central Library, the £40 million glass panelled space will house the city’s collections from natural to maritime history and the region’s archive. Across a new square, St Luke’s Church will display contemporary art. theboxplymouth.com
BritishTravelJournal.com
13
IMAGES FROM ABOVE CLOCKWISE: HOTEL PORTMEIRION; ST NECTAN’S GLEN; THE SINGING RINGING TREE; WILTSHIRE’S WHITE HORSES; WHARRAM PERCY MEDIEVAL VILLAGE; QUARRY AT JUPITER ARTLAND; MAUNSELL SEA FORTS; DARK HEDGES IN BALLYMONEY; PORTMEIRION VILLAGE; CASTELL DEUDRAETH, A 4-STAR HOTEL IN PORTMEIRION VILLAGE.
St Nectan’s Glen Don wellies to visit St Nectan’s Glen in the Cornish hamlet of Trethevy, with its three waterfalls, shallow pool to wade in and river bank woodland walk. Named after the eponymous sixth century saint, the waters at St Nectan’s Kieve that gush through a hole in the rocks are thought to be healing too. Head to the wooden café for a light bite or chill out in a forest retreat. st-nectansglen.co.uk
14
BritishTravelJournal.com
Wiltshire’s White Horses Explore Wiltshire through its eight white horses carved into the South West county’s hillsides. Take the oldest horse designed in 1778. Its Westbury setting includes an iron age hill fort and 14th century church. Two other horses overlook the Vale of Pewsey with its quaint thatched roof cottages, canal and trout fishery. visitwiltshire.com
Portmeirion Village Once a backdrop for a cult 1960s sci-fi television series, The Prisoner, and the subject of this year’s ITV documentary series, The Village, colourful Portmeirion Village in North Wales is unique; it combines a man-made Italianate village, subtropical forest and sandy Welsh beaches. Top tips include staying at the Great Gatsby-style hotel and sampling local mussels in the neo-Gothic castle’s brasserie.
Wharram Percy Medieval Village Of the 3000 deserted medieval villages in Britain, Wharram Percy in North Yorkshire is one of the largest and best preserved. With remains including watermills, a pond, church, barn as well as houses, the site evokes 600 years of life to 1517. Based near Malton, the historic market town is also worth checking out with its popular monthly food market and horse racing stables, which have an open day on 13 September.
portmeirion.wales
english-heritage.org.uk
The Singing Ringing Tree Overlooking Burnley in Lancashire is this three metre tall wind powered, sound sculpture. Shaped into a windswept tree by 21 layers of galvanised steel pipes, the eerie discordant sound is created by the wind blowing through them. Designed by architects, Mike Tonkin and Anna Liu, the eco- artwork won the National Award for architectural excellence in 2007. visitlancashire.com
Jupiter Artland For vibrant, thought-provoking art, wander through the 120 acre sculpture park outside Edinburgh. Anish Kapoor’s caged bottomless vortex and Marc Quinn’s tall vibrant orchid, known as Love Bomb, are among the stellar works. New for this year are reconstructions of works by performance art pioneer, Allan Kaprow including his melting ice sculpture; as well as the chance to stay overnight - in the house where artists live when working on projects. jupiterartland.org
Maunsell Sea Forts Take a boat trip from Herne Bay into the Thames Estuary to see the Second World War memorial, the Maunsell sea forts, named after the civil engineer who designed them, Guy Maunsell. Built in 1942 to help protect London from German airstrikes and sea raids, each steel fort housed weapons and 265 soldiers. Abandoned in 1958, a few survive. maunsellseaforts.com
The Dark Hedges If you are suffering withdrawal symptoms from cult television hit, Game of Thrones, head to the fabled Dark Hedges in Ballymoney, Northern Ireland - one of the most photographed natural phenomena and a popular attraction for tourists from across the world. For this avenue of gnarled trees was the setting for Westeros’s Kingsroad. Planted in the 18th century, this avenue was dubbed one of the world’s most beautiful streets by Architectural Digest. ccght.org/darkhedges/
Step on set: The Dark Hedges' appearance as the 'Kingsroad' in Game of Thrones brought international fame - for more cinematic inspiration you might also enjoy our 'Stepping on Set' article p88
BritishTravelJournal.com
15
IMAGES FROM ABOVE CLOCKWISE: FAIRY POOLS ON THE ISLE OF SKYE; HADRIAN’S WALL; CERNE GIANT CHALK OUTLINE; THE HARDY MONUMENT; ANGEL OF THE NORTH; SOUND II AT AT WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL; THE MUSEUM OF THE HOME; FINGAL’S CAVE ON THE UNINHABITED HEBRIDEAN ISLAND OF STAFFA.
Fingal’s Cave Known for its natural acoustics, thanks to its arched roof and moving waves, the fabled sea cave retains its ethereal experience. Located on the uninhabited Hebridean island of Staffa, the 227 foot tall cave with its volcanic-formed columns is only accessible by boat – either from the mainland or surrounding islands. Puffins with their colourful beaks add charm from May to August. nts.org.uk/visit/places/staffa
Fairy Pools Visit the clear blue Fairy Pools on the Isle of Skye, just off the north-west Scottish coast in the inner Hebrides. The gushing waterfalls and swirling pools lie in a large glen at the foot of Scotland’s rocky Black Cullins mountains. Nearby is the rural village of Carbost, known for its 19th century Talisker single malt whisky distillery. visitscotland.com
Hadrian’s Wall Spanning England from east to west from South Shields near Newcastle to Cumbria’s Maryport is Hadrian’s Wall. Built by the Romans around 122 AD, the wall marked the northernmost point of its empire. Walk alongside it to discover ancient forts, turrets and more, with picturesque views including Northumberland National Park. english-heritage.co.uk;
nationaltrust.org.uk
Cerne Giant Often associated with fertility, the Cerne Giant is an ancient chalk outline of a naked man wielding a club carved on Trendle Hill above Dorset’s historic village of Cerne Abbas. Dating back to early England, the olde worlde village developed around a 987 AD Benedictine Abbey whose remains can still be found near the medieval Church of Saint Mary. nationaltrust.org.uk/cerne-giant
Hardy Monument The Hardy Monument commemorates Vice Admiral Sir Thomas Masterman Hardy, renowned as the captain of HMS Victory, Nelson’s flagship at the 1805 Battle of Trafalgar where they defeated Napoleon. Standing on the summit of the Black Down in Dorset since 1844, this 22 metre high monument was also built as a shipping landmark. Now the climb of 120 interior steps to the top serves as a spectacular viewing point across the Dorset countryside and coast -and The Isle of Wight Needles on a clear day. nationaltrust.org.uk/hardy-
monument
16
BritishTravelJournal.com
Angel of the North 20 metres high with a 54 metre wing span, Antony Gormley’s Angel of the North in Gateshead has become one of Britain’s most iconic public artworks. Located along a main road in and out of the city, the statue has become a symbol of the city’s identity too. Unveiled in 1998 on the site of former coal pithead baths, the steel sculpture has remained “a focus of hope,” as the artist said at the time.
Sound II at at Winchester Cathedral Modern and medieval British art collide as Antony Gormley’s contemporary man, cast out of lead from the artist’s body, stands in contemplation in the 11th century crypt. Best way to see the sculpture is via a viewing platform during the rainy season when the crypt floods – as a tube mechanism through the body fills the cupped hands with the rising water.
newcastlegateshead.com
winchester-cathedral.org.uk
Dorset County Museum Dorset’s treasures re-emerge following a museum facelift. Highlights include its Thomas Hardy collection, archaeological finds relating to the county since prehistory and the fearsome long jaw of a pliosaur, an extinct marine reptile, dating back 155 million years, found on the shores near Weymouth. Nearby visit ruins of a 4th century Roman Town House – the only fully exposed one in Britain.
Dove Cottage & Wordsworth Museum Step back to the 1800s at William Wordsworth’s home in the Lake District. The cosy homestead, where the Romantic poet lived with his family from 1799 to 1808 has had a makeover for the 250th anniversary of his birth. Get a taste of how he lived from the kitchen, open fire living room, and study. Head next door to the newly expanded museum – for manuscripts, artworks and other artefacts.
dorsetcountymuseum.org
wordsworth.org.uk
The Museum of the Home The row of 18th century almshouses has long been a Shoreditch landmark. Now after a two year transformation, the Museum of the Home (formerly the Geffrye Museum) will re-open, adding a roof garden and café to new galleries. A 16th century fireplace to Philippe Starck homeware feature in its collection. museumofthehome.org.uk
BritishTravelJournal.com
17
WHAT WE’RE WATCHING?
The King’s Man 16 SEPTEMBER 2020 The sharp-suited Kingsman intelligence agents return to the big screen from 18 September. This time we find out the agency’s early 20th century origins as they combat the world’s worst tyrants and criminals. Directed again by Matthew Vaughn, the comedy action caper has a new starry cast including Ralph Fiennes and Aaron Taylor-Johnson. 20thcenturystudios.com/
movies/the-kings-man WHAT WE’RE LISTENING TO?
Women in Music Part III by Haim We’ve been waiting three years for new pop rock sounds from the multi-talented Haim sisters, Este, Danielle and Alana. Now, there are 16 tracks to gorge on in one of the most
anticipated albums of this year. Sassy song, Summer Girl is timely whilst Hallelujah’s soulful guitar helps us chill through those long nights. Shot by multiple Oscar nominee, Paul Thomas Anderson, the album cover is an extra bonus. haimtheband.com
WHAT WE’RE READING?
Foodie Breaks: England, Scotland, Northern Ireland and Wales 8 SEPTEMBER 2020 Discover a fresh side to Britain and its food with a new fact-filled guide to the country’s eateries, Foodie Breaks: England, Scotland, Northern Ireland and Wales by Richard Mellor, published by Dog ‘n’ Bone Books on 8 September. Whether on a budget or date, the extensive culinary choices take you from big cities to a remote fishing hamlet in Wales. Other hot tips include regional favourites and best for local produce. rylandpeters.com
IMAGES ABOVE: SCENES FROM THE KING’S MAN MOVIE AND THE HAIM SISTERS, ESTE, DANIELLE AND ALANA. IMAGE BELOW: WOMEN IN MUSIC PART III BY HAIM ALBUM COVER SHOT BY MULTIPLE OSCAR NOMINEE, PAUL THOMAS ANDERSON
ABOVE: FOODIE BREAKS: ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, NORTHERN IRELAND AND WALES
BritishTravelJournal.com
19
S MI SAL ALNLD
IMAGES: COUPLE ENJOY THE HEADLAND OVERLOOKING THE WINDSWEPT LANDSCAPE AND THE PORT AND OLD TOWN OF ST IVES ON THE NORTH CORNISH COASTLINE. ©VISITBRITAIN/TOMO BREJC
20
BritishTravelJournal.com
As Britain prepares to cautiously open its doors, to explore new places from a distance and to think about a summer holiday at home, we look at how this incredible nation has responded to one of its toughest challenges Words | Emma Johnson
BIG HEART Ă BritishTravelJournal.com
21
T
HE CORONAVIRUS CRISIS is predicted to cost the UK tourism industry at least £22bn in lost revenue. Domestic tourism has always been a booming industry for a nation that loves to explore its beaches, forests, lakes, moors and mountains. But in the face of a global pandemic, stories about closures and empty beauty spots make for grim reading. Tourism is one of the UK’s most successful economic sectors, employing 3.1 million people and supporting 200,000 small businesses and entrepreneurs right across the country, as well as being the main employer in many coastal towns and rural communities. For two months, most of those staff have been furloughed and the businesses shut. Many businesses with shorter spring or summer seasons have seen that timeframe radically reduced, while also considering how to offer their services or experiences in the light of social distancing and government safety measures. It has been a lot to consider. And yet, in the midst of uncertainty came ingenuity, creativity and a deep and renewed sense of community. For the British tourism and hospitality industry, this is a challenge, but not an unassailable one. David Adams, general manager at the Cary Arms Hotel & Spa in Devon, explains that uncertainty, on some level, is something they’ve always been prepared for. “We get thrown curveballs all the time in this industry. Yes, this was a particularly big one, but being a success in hospitality gives you a lot of practice at being caught off guard and adjusting to the situation.”
BRAND NEW BEACH HUTS AT CARY ARMS & SPA, DEVON
22
BritishTravelJournal.com
SUPPORTING EACH OTHER
Across the nation, pubs, bars, hotels, parks, estates and tourist boards have worked to consider the best way to cope through lockdown, and to support those around them in difficult times. Across Britain, The National Trust opened all of its carparks and estate land for free, while the IHG hotel group provided temporary accommodation for three months for rough sleepers. In the heart of London, Strand Palace Hotel remained open to house key workers, as well as providing free meals to the NHS. “Strand Palace kept its doors open to those who protected our country during the war years, which is why today we are proud to offer our help to those on the frontline working tirelessly in the fight against COVID-19” says Matthew Beard, Managing Director of Strand Palace. The iconic Claridge’s hotel offered over 40 free hotel rooms for staff from the nearby St Mary’s Hospital in Paddington, while also delivering daily packed meals to over 500 NHS workers and community support teams. Close by, The Connaught donated over 200 meals a day to St Patrick’s Church to help feed the homeless and vulnerable. Healthcare professionals working on the frontline were also offered free food and accommodation from large hotel brands including Four Seasons, Hilton and OYO Hotels. Many hotels chose to recognise the sacrifices of so many with giveaways and weekend breaks reserved for key workers. Small Luxury Hotels of the World chose to recognise 500 NHS workers by giving away two-night stays for use at any of their properties. Iconic Luxury Hotels, the privately-owned collection of four classic British hotels - Cliveden House, Chewton Glen, The Lygon Arms and 11 Cadogan Gardens – recently joined a Mr & Mrs Smith Crowdfunder campaign to reward NHS and care home staff with a night away at some of the UK’s best boutique properties, which also includes Dormy House in the Cotswolds, The Rose in Kent and Limewood in Hampshire, for just £50 each. Working to help both restaurants and the NHS, Fuel the Fight is a fantastic not-for-profit grassroots campaign, which simultaneously feeds NHS workers while supporting the hospitality industry during COVID-19. Acting as a broker between restaurants and hospitals, Fuel the Fight uses every penny raised to buy meals at full retail price from restaurants and deliver them to local hospitals. “In terms of the restaurants, two have said they could not have survived without us,” says founder Evelyn Booth-Clibborn. “They had been on the brink of closing. And, for all the restaurants we have partnered with, Fuel the Fight has truly been a lifeline enabling them to keep their cash flow afloat and core staff going.” Jackson Boxer, chef at Orasay who is part of the initiative added: “We are so thrilled to be able to cook for the local hospital staff at this time. To be able to have Fuel The Fight help with the cost of this is incredible. We're so grateful for the donations which have allowed us to do this.” Turning their expertise to something different, gin distilleries such as Silent Pool, Portobello Road, Harrogate Tipple, Isle of Harris, Dyfi and Nelsons all turned their expertise to making à
BritishTravelJournal.com
23
hand sanitisers and gave them out to key workers and the local community. Silent Pool, who branded their sanitiser ‘The Silent Treatment’, has given away 50 bottles of hand sanitiser a day at its distillery shop, focusing on the elderly and NHS staff including nurses, doctors and surgeons, paramedics, a charity for the homeless and GP surgeries. Similar creativity could be found on Alderney, where one business found that they had all the materials and bottles to make hand sanitiser, while a volunteer support programme, called Alderney Spirit, worked to provide help and support across the community where needed, from support at the care home or hospital to dog walking or meals on wheels for vulnerable or selfisolating residents. From big gestures to smaller ones, from landmark hotels to country pubs, the message from hospitality seemed clear throughout the country – that despite hard times and uncertainty, their priority was giving back what they could and helping in some small way. In Cornwall, catering company Fees Food created the Cornwall Community Kitchen, fundraising themselves and donating meals to local food banks and working with small charities helping those most in need. “Food banks and charities in Cornwall are seeing unprecedented demand, so we started Cornwall Community Kitchen to help in any way we can,”, said founder Fee Turner. While in the Cotswolds, village pub The Bell at Sapperton set up a click and collect service, using their suppliers to get access to much-needed bread, flour, vegetables, eggs and milk, and used any excess of food and drink to create emergency ‘Survival Bags’ of essentials, which they delivered to local neighbours and the vulnerable elderly community.
LOOKING FORWARD
Now, as the focus turns to reopening and what the rest of the summer season will look like, it’s clear that this characteristic pragmatism remains. Hope remains that the late summer season will also push forward into autumn, and discussion about an additional bank holiday in October have been met with positivity by the industry. “We are working across the industry and with the UK Government to save as much of the valuable summer season as we can and to extend the tourism season into October and beyond,” explains Patricia Yates, CEO of Visit Britain. “And we have also been talking to destination management organisations in England about how they coordinate their destinations, coming out of lockdown.” Working together has been a key feature for organisations that might previously have worked more on their own agenda. Mark Hooper, project lead for Visit Shropshire, explained to British Travel Journal that Covid-19 has changed the way they work, creating closer ties to other organisations. “During lockdown we became all about supporting our businesses, and forming closer relationships with our neighbouring counties and local authority to work together to ensure Shropshire recovers in the strongest way possible. We have created partnerships which we will take into the future.”
24
BritishTravelJournal.com
NESSCLIFFE VILLAGE IN SHROPSHIRE, LOCATED NORTH OF THE RIVER SEVERN
DISCOVERING BEAUTY SPOTS
Mark Hooper also explains how a big focus for Visit Shropshire has been on promoting hidden gems or off-the-beaten track locations, over the usual tourist hotspots, to try and spread tourism across the UK and avoid busier areas. “We are aware that social distancing will need to be in place for a little while longer once we start to reopen. We are encouraging visitors to explore Shropshire off the beaten track." It’s a great opportunity for those areas in Britain that are less busy to make a difference in terms of social distancing and visitor numbers. In the Cotswolds, the theme across social media has been one to showcase the beauty of the area, but at the same time, to reiterate the message that says: “For now, please stay away.” It’s a brave message for any business to share, but speaks volumes about its commitment to safety. Mette Poynton, founder of tourist guide and membership organisation Cotswolds Concierge, explains how they have tried to tread the delicate line between promotion and social responsibility: “We have made it clear, through our promotion of the Cotswolds during lockdown, that we will promote the area by encouraging people to #PlanAVisit. We want people to plan to visit when it is safe and advised to do so. It is of great importance that the tourism industry recover, so we see it as our responsibility to do whatever we can to make this happen, and that includes continuing to promote all the wonderful things in the Cotswolds.” On the island of Alderney, director of tourism Helene Turner explains that how promoting the positives while encouraging people not to visit is a challenge they have risen to. “We are committed to singing from the rooftops about our lovely little island and want to keep sharing the Alderney love with everyone through social media and our website during this difficult time, when visiting is not advised. Be assured our island community will be ready and waiting to welcome you with open arms once we are all able to return to a healthy safe state of normality.”
HOLIDAYS AT HOME
It is clear that the UK will be a main destination for anyone taking a holiday this year. “This will be the year of domestic tourism,” said Patricia Yates, something that is a really positive sign for many in the hospitality industry. At the Cary Arms in Devon, which responded to lockdown by reassuring guests that refunds and date moves would be met with no quibbles, the mood is positive. “The next 12 months will be very different but also very successful,” says David Adams. “The reduction in availability of overseas travel, and particularly cheap package holidays, will allow guests to really look at what UK tourism has to offer. There are so many genuine and amazing businesses in the UK already offering everything a guest could want from their holiday, now is our chance to shine. The tricky part is doing that without losing sight of why guests are coming to stay, to relax and enjoy themselves!”
Rural or seaside areas are seeing particular interest, as Julie Hastings, marketing director at Hastings Hotels in Northern Ireland explains. “We have properties in the cities, countryside and also close to the beach in Northern Ireland and we have seen an increase in enquiries for bookings at our coastal and spa properties which are all in very beautiful natural locations.” September and October are looking to be popular and busy months for many in the industry, while longer stays are also looking more common. Luxury Cotswold Rentals say they have seen a sustained rise in enquiries for much longer-term rentals, up to two and three months, which the company is now calling ‘holi-stays’ – and properties with swimming pools and tennis courts the most popular. “Many of our guests have cancelled European trips and are looking for somewhere to settle into for the summer months,” says founder Nigel Stengard-Green. à
BritishTravelJournal.com
25
POST-LOCKDOWN LUXURY
It’s clear too though, that plenty of changes will need to be made, and hotels and restaurants have a lot to consider when looking at how they offer the same levels of quality and service amidst social distancing measures. Andrew Stembridge, executive director of Iconic Luxury Hotels, voices the concerns of many, saying; “There is no doubt that the reopening of hotels will not be easy. We are developing and adjusting our comeback plans and re-opening models daily for all our hotels in order to get through the numerous hurdles in place.” Patricia Yates suggests that we might start to see the introduction of a common industry quality mark that would provide a ‘ring of confidence’ for tourism businesses, attractions and destinations as well as reassurance to visitors that businesses have clear processes in place when restrictions are lifted. “We can holiday at home again to give reassurance to the public that it is socially responsible to travel.” At luxury hotel Cliveden House post-pandemic measures include new cleaning training programmes, changes to their dining room layout – including a one way system through the restaurant, as well as extra use of their wonderful Astor Grill. Previously the stables, the Astor Grill design lends itself naturally to social distancing with individual booths which organically limit the space and number of settings. In the spa there will be an increase in personal training and one-on-one yoga sessions, while all guest rooms will have in-room tablets which eliminate many touch points and allow for remote access. In Sussex, Goodwood Hospitality Managing Director, Andrew Coggings explains "With such a high demand for the temporary Goodwood Farm Shop (a switch from our wholesale business to a fully-fledged farm shop offering our home-reared organic meat, cheeses, milk and beer directly to customers) we are considering making the shop a more permanent fixture on the estate and offering tours of our organic farm." At the Headland Hotel in Cornwall, owners John and Carolyn Armstrong took advantage of lockdown to refurbish the indoor pool and changing rooms, and undertake various maintenance tasks, as well as preparing the hotel for opening post-Covid by finishing the build of their new Aqua Club, with six swimming pools and a restaurant, which will provide takeaway flatbreads from its new pizza oven together with freshly cooked lobsters and crabs from Newquay Harbour. The hotel also has 40 self-catering cottages which will allow people a safe and easy place to holiday. “We have a huge amount of space within the hotel and ten acres of grounds, with thirty sunny little dug-outs perfect for social distancing while safely enjoying Cornish cream teas and watching the waves,” says Carolyn Amstrong. The perfect vision of a socially-distanced way to holiday.
26
BritishTravelJournal.com
DIGITAL FOOTPRINTS
While work is being undertaken to make tourist spots and destinations safe for visitors, it is likely that many galleries, landmarks, theatres and museums will have to find new ways to be creative. Luckily, our increasingly digital world means that some of the most intriguing places and dramatic performances are all available to us online. In Alderney, they have set up ‘Puffin Cams’ which shows the puffins in their natural habitat on the neighbouring islet of Burhou – a lovely way to connect with nature, even if you can’t get there; while many gardens across the UK are offering virtual tours around their beautiful grounds. At Waddesdon Manor, the grand house and gardens are renowned for their calm beauty and expansive Victorian horticulture including formal gardens, trees and walks, and you can also explore all of the Royal Horticultural Society’s Wisley garden online, as well as the gardens of the private residence of Prince Charles and Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall at Highgrove. The Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew have created a tour of the top ten sights to see, with guided commentary from Kew experts along the way - we love the Victorian glasshouses and Alpine rock garden. And don’t miss garden tours from Hidcote Manor in Gloucestershire, Great Comp in Kent and Chiswick House in West London. In Shropshire they’ve been using the campaign 'Shropshire from your sofa' - all built around seeing Shropshire virtually; while in Cornwall you can enjoy a video tour of the beach at St Ives. Stonehenge, York Minster, Edinburgh Castle and Loch Ness are all also offering virtual tours, while in London you can soak up such landmarks as Buckingham Palace, St Paul’s Cathedral and even Abbey Road. For even more cultural exploits, many theatres across Britain have started to share their shows online for free, including the Bristol Old Vic, which is currently featuring its hit musical The Grinning Man which went on to transfer to the West End. In London, The Globe recently announced that it will release 40 free titles, including six mainstage shows and its 2020 one-act version of Macbeth. The National Theatre is offering Tom Hiddleston's Coriolanus and This House, and other theatres going online include The Old Vic, The Gate Theatre and the Southwark Playhouse. In addition, the Chichester Festival Theatre and Manchester International Theatre have both moved their planned 2020 festivals online, putting on full shows, musical performances, talks and Q&As, all for free, while The Royal Opera House is sharing a selection of past operas and ballets on its YouTube channel. Art galleries are getting creative too, with Tate Modern moving its highly anticipated Andy Warhol retrospective online, where you can see over 100 of the artist’s most iconic works, including his Green Coca-Cola bottles and his equivocal Ladies and Gentlemen series. At Tate Britain you can walk through their 12 gallery rooms with work from the likes of Francis Bacon and John Constable; at The British Museum you can virtually tour the Great Court and discover the ancient Egyptian mummies; and at The Natural History Museum, children can discover the worlds of dinosaurs and dodos, as well as amazing plants and colourful butterflies. u
BritishTravelJournal.com
27
STILL WINES RUN DEEP English still wine used to be the poor relation but it’s fast catching up its sparkling sister Words | Adrian Mourby
I
N RECENT YEARS British sparkling wine has taken off so impressively that French vineyards are now investing in the productive Sussex countryside. Yet English still wines have remained at the Cinderella end of the market, dowdy and overlooked. In all fairness the quality of English still wine has until recently been variable. In the early, pioneer years (our first modern vineyards were only planted in the late 60s and early 70s) there was an over-reliance on hardy Muller Thurgau and Bacchus, German grapes which grew well in English soils and could cope with the English climate, but produced still wines with a rather sour taste. Over the last ten years, however, the quality of English wines has generally improved, with French sparkling wine grapes like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and
28
BritishTravelJournal.com
Pinot Meunier proving that they can thrive in southern England. Still wines have followed where their sparkling siblings led with blended wine a particular success. Climate change allied with the work of Plumpton College’s new Wine Research Facility in Sussex has meant that southern England is beginning to challenge even its French neighbours for both still and sparkling wines. Currently there are over 500 vineyards in England but the output is still not huge. Many vineyards and wineries sell by internet and many have their own restaurants and hotels to supply so English wines do not have a major supermarket presence as yet. But that’s a very good reason to go and visit the vineyards. Here are six still wine producers who will make you welcome. à
BritishTravelJournal.com
29
1
R ATHFINNY WINE ESTATE
ALFRISTON, SUSSEX In 2010 Mark and Sarah Driver bought Rathfinny Farm with the specific intention of growing grapes for sparkling wine. Currently the couple have 380,000 vines growing on 227 acres of land and by 2025 they are aiming for 350 acres. If all goes to plan, Rathfinny will soon be producing 80,000 cases of sparkling wine a year, making it one of England’s most significant wine producers. Mark’s ambition is that “In twenty years’ time you will walk into a bar or restaurant in New York or Beijing and you’ll be asked, ‘would you like a glass of Champagne or a delicious glass of Sussex? I can recommend the Rathfinny, sir.’” However Rathfinny also produces still wines, using the same three grapes: Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay. These are marketed under the Cradle Valley label. There is a blended Cradle Valley White and a Cradle Valley Rosé which is made solely from Pinot Noir grapes. Both
30
BritishTravelJournal.com
WE LOVE
THE CRADLE VA L L E Y
still wines are made to the same high standard. The soil at Rathfinny helps. The vineyard lies on a band of well-drained chalk that forms the Paris Basin, running up through northern France, crossing through the Champagne region and into southern England, forming the South Downs. According to Cameron Roucher, estate manager at Rathfinny (who moved from New Zealand to be part of the project), “You couldn’t really ask for a better location than this for growing grapes.” rathfinnyestate.com
Where to stay
Ockenden Manor Ockenden Manor is very much a wine-lovers hotel. It was built in several stages from Tudor times to the present day. The hotel offers a number of Wine Safari packages. Visits to six local vineyards can be arranged by the concierge, including to nearby Rathfinny and Bolney. hshotels.co.uk/ockenden-manor
The Cradle Valley White is a light and crispy blend of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc (and just occasionally Chardonnay) and sells for £21.
YOU MIGHT ALSO ENJOY... The Bolney Estate just four miles west of Ockenden Manor produces a Pinot Noir that is currently the best-selling English red. Its Pinot Gris is also excellent. In 2020 the vineyard is opening a new restaurant in its south-facing vineyard. bolneywineestate.com
3
NEW HALL
2
THREE CHOIRS
NEWENT, GLOUCESTERSHIRE First planted in 1973, the Three Choirs vineyard is one of the oldest in England. This venture was begun by a Gloucestershire wine merchant who bought a few acres known as Fairfield Fruit Farm. Record summer temperatures in 1976 provided a boost to the fledgling vineyard and in 1984 it was sold as a going concern to the Oldacre family. They expanded the vineyard to 75 acres and renamed it Three Choirs after England’s oldest choral festival that visits Gloucester Cathedral every three years. In 2014 the Oldacre family expanded into Hampshire, purchasing a picturesque 40 acre vineyard in Wickham whose outbuildings are so attractive it also doubles as a popular wedding venue. Current vintages under chief wine maker Martin Fowke include a whole series with local geographical names: May Hill, a medium sweet wine, Ravens Hill, a deep ruby-coloured red and two dry whites, Willowbrook and Coleridge Hill. There is also a blended English Rosé plus the single varietals, Siegerrebe and Bacchus. Three Choirs also produces one sparkling white wine.
Where to stay
Luxury Vineyard Lodges Since 2000 the vineyard has its own hotel and restaurant. Guests can also stay in glass-walled, wooden-framed, lodges with floor to ceiling windows overlooking ponds surrounded by vines. three-choirs-vineyards.co.uk
WE LOVE
THREE CHOIRS SIEGERREBE 2017
Three Choirs Siegerrebe 2017 is a vegan-friendly white wine retailing at £14.95 with subtle hints lychee and grapefruit on the palate.
BOXTED, ESSEX The CM3 postcode in Essex has more vineyards than any other postcode in Britain. Indeed 80% of all grapes grown in Essex are sourced here in the Crouch Valley. With southfacing slopes, low rainfall and coastal breezes, the area is protected from frost and produces some of the best wines in England. Wine has been cultivated on the rolling hillsides of Essex since soon after the Norman Conquest. Indeed it is believed that wicked King John had his wine supplied from a site in the Crouch Valley. In 1969 Bill and Sheila Greenwood planted Crouch Valley’s first modern vines at New Hall Farm. Mr Greenwood was a farmer and realised that the valley’s microclimate offered great potential for viticulture. 850 Reichensteiner vines were purchased at auction for just 23p each and hundreds of old railway sleepers were cut up to create the trellises. In 1971 Mrs Greenwood made the first wines in her kitchen from German Reichensteiner, Huxelrebe and Muller Thurgau grapes. Today under winemaker Piers Greenwood, New Hall produces a number of single varietal wines, Bacchus, Ortega, Huxelrebe, Muller Thurgau and Chardonnay, as well as an English rosé blended from Pinot Noir and two minor grapes. We love White Hart 2017 Created for their 50th anniversary, this post-ferment blend of Schonburg and Chardonnay results in a dry wine with flavours of pineapple and a soft citrus finish. newhallwines.co.uk
Where to stay
Wivenhoe House Stately Wivenhoe House is 20 miles east of New Hall Wines. In 1816, owner Major-General Francis Slater Rebow commissioned John Constable to commemorate the house on a canvas that is now displayed at the National Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C. The hotel is surrounded by the campus of Essex University wivenhoehouse.co.uk
BritishTravelJournal.com
31
4
LOVELLS
WELLAND, WORCESTERSHIRE Cathie and John Rolinson moved to the village of Welland below the Malvern Hills in 2008 having made the bold decision to establish a vineyard from scratch. Their first 900 vines were planted in 2010 and since then they have added thousands more and taken management of Tiltridge Vineyard in Upton on Severn. Now working four vineyards over 15 acres – all sheltered by the Malvern Hills, Lovells produces Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes which are marketed in a series of wines named after local composer, Sir Edward Elgar. “Ours is a story of a hobby that became more serious,” says Cathie. “It started with an ambition to prove to friends and family that we could produce a decent English wine. We were ably helped along the way by the expertise of the well-established Three Choirs Vineyard as well as several other knowledgeable and kind souls” Operating out of a delightful farmhouse and visitor centre, Lovells now grows Orion, Pinot Noir, Siegerebbe, Madeleine Angevine and Seyval Blanc as well as red Rondo grapes. Today this charming vineyard produces over 12,000 bottles of wine a year, from sparkling whites and rosés to dry whites and single varietals. The Elgar range includes an Elgar Medium Dry, Sonatina Rosé and two sparklings Ysobel Rosé and Elgar Sparkling White. We love Elgar Medium Dry made from a blend of Huxelrebe and Schonburger from the vineyard’s oldest vines. It retails for around £12.50 lovellsvineyard.co.uk
Where to stay
The Cottage in The Woods The Cottage in The Woods is on the Malvern Hills just above Lovells and serves the Elgar wines. It was originally the dower house for a massive Victorian estate, Blackmore Park in the Severn Valley that burned down in 1921. cottageinthewood.co.uk 32 BritishTravelJournal.com
5
DENBIES WINE ESTATE
DORKING, SURREY The hugely productive Denbies operation almost didn’t happen. In 1984 Adrian White bought this Surrey estate as his home but was unsure what to do with the land so he asked a friend, Professor Richard Selly (who normally advised on drilling for oil) to survey the site. Selly worked out that its chalk soil and well-protected location were ideal for wine production. Thirteen varietals were planted as an experiment in 1986 to see which would take, and 34 years later, in 2010 Denbies medium dry Surrey Gold became the best-selling English white wine. These days the vineyard produces 10% of all English wines. Other Denbies’ blends are geographically named: Flint Valley, Ranmore Hill and Redlands. Single varietals include Bacchus and Pinot Gris. Despite a lot of success with its sparkling wines, 40% of Denbies’ output remains still and it also makes wine for other companies, like the Albury Vineyard near Guildford. Good entry-level wines under £10 helped establish the brand, but the new Denbies’ Vineyard Select range is exciting critical attention. The visitor centre with its great central tower and
Disneyfied wine train attracts 350,000 visitors a year. The site is very accessible and friendly, with locals walking their dogs. There is also a modern 18 bed hotel created out of an old farmhouse on the estate.
Where to stay
Denbies Vineyard Hotel Denbies Vineyard Hotel has a very attractive view of the vines from its dining room. This building was originally a farmhouse on the original estate but has been completely repurposed for visitors. denbies.co.uk
WE LOVE
RANMORE HILL 2017
Ranmore Hill 2017 is a white wine that was a Gold award-winner at WineGB 2019 in the category of ‘Best Blended Wine’. At £14.95 it is also very good value.
6
WE LOVE
2018 BACCHUS
CHAPEL DOWN
TENTERDEN, KENT England's largest winemaker operates out of Tenterden in Kent, making use of the same chalk landscape that created the white cliffs of Dover. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Bacchus thrive in this gentle climate, but Chapel Down augment their own grapes with fruit grown by 13 suppliers from Essex to Hampshire. This wide range of locations minimises the risks of crop failure due to frost. The company was established in 1992 and moved to Tenterden three years later taking over Rock Lodge Vineyard. Today winemaker Josh DonaghaySpire supplies pillars of the British establishment like 10 Downing Street, the Royal Opera House, Covent Garden, the Barbican and the Royal Crescent Hotel Bath. The Chapel Down bottles with their simple black red and gold labelling are attractive
and easily recognised. The company is known for its championing of the Bacchus grape, which they describe as England’s answer to Sauvignon Blanc. They also produce an English Rosé as well as a single varietal Pinot Blanc and a Chardonnay. There is an attractive modern visitor centre at Tenterden built to resemble a clapboard Kentish barn. The field next door is planted with all the major grape varieties so visitors can see them in situ. The centre currently attracts over 50,000 visitors a year. chapeldown.com
The 2018 Bacchus is currently available for as little as at £10 a bottle. It’s a crisp, refreshing highly aromatic white wine characterised by hints of melon and peach
Where to stay
Chilston Park Hotel Chilston Park Hotel is 16 miles north of Chapel Down. The hotel still has the feel of a friend’s country house at which you’re staying for the weekend. It also has the world’s smallest bar tucked under the old oak staircase. handpickedhotels.co.uk
BritishTravelJournal.com
33
Nearly Wild Camping
S U S TA I N A B L E T R AV E L What could be more restorative in challenging times than sustainable camping in a beautiful environment? Words | Helen Holmes
TOASTING MARSHMALLOWS AT PEGS AND PITCHES CAMPSITE, SUSSEX
34
BritishTravelJournal.com
W
E’VE ALL BEEN confined to our homes this spring, in what must be one of the strangest experiences most of us have ever had. And if there’s one thing about being told to stay inside – it’s that it makes you want to go outside like never before. The city dwellers amongst us, in particular, have been craving countryside, wilderness, open space. We’re also seeing some of the immediate environmental benefits of reduced travel and industrial activity – the skies are clearer, the air is cleaner, and wildlife is thriving. It’s unclear right now what kind of travel plans we’re going to be able to make this summer, but if we are able to get away, one highly appealing option is to find a remote spot and pitch a tent. Actual wild camping – away from campsites – is technically illegal in most of the UK, unless you have permission from the landowner. But there are some amazing campsites which provide the experience of being immersed in nature, alongside off-grid facilities, and the security of knowing that you’re allowed to be there. The remote camping places we’ve discovered do their utmost to tread lightly on the planet – working actively to conserve the local environment and wildlife whilst also giving people the opportunity to sleep under the stars at night and wander through forests, or take to the water, by day.
LIVING-ROOM TREEHOUSES, MACHYNLLETH, WALES
As if seeping under canvas wasn’t enticing enough, how about sleeping in a tree? These are real treehouses, built high in the forest canopy, on the edge of the Snowdonia National Park – remote from each other, and from the outside world. The location is close to the Centre for Alternative Technology – one of the world’s foremost centres for research into environmental issues, and the team who set up the treehouses used to work there – so their envornmental credentials are impeccable. The treehouses themselves are created by local artisans and designers, from local, sustainable wood. They have solarpowered facilities, including fridges and hot showers, as well as running water from purified local springs. The site is in an ancient woodland which is a haven for flora and fauna, and it’s actively managed by the treehouse team, who have added 10 acres of wildflower meadows to the area. “We aim to offer guests the opportunity to live deep in the heart of the natural environment, high in the trees, in a space that is both inspiring and far from the norm,” says Mark Bond, one of the team who set up the site. living-room.co
à
BritishTravelJournal.com
35
ALDERFEN MARSHES, NORFOLK
Alderfen Marshes consists of just four pitches in the Norfolk Broads. Located in a Site of Special Scientific Interest, the place is first and foremost managed as a conservation area – with the camping provision being very much secondary to that. Each pitch is on its own marsh, away from others, surrounded by reeds, willows, waterways and wildlife, and the four pitches are never all occupied simultaneously – which allows them to recover between visitors. Campers can book a canoe alongside their pitch and use it to explore the remote, tidal waterways of the marshes. Campers are also supplied with a fire bowl, a supply of drinking water, a wood-fired stove and a clean, off-grid, private toilet. Stephen Ferrey, who runs the site, says, “Our goal has been to manage Alderfen Marshes as an area of wilderness in which paths disappear enticingly into the marshes, creating the feeling that around every corner is a surprise.” go-moco.co.uk
BLUEBELL MEADOW AT PEGS AND PITCHES CAMPSITE, SUSSEX
RUBERSLAW, HAWICK
In the centre of the Teviotdale Special Landscape Area in the Scottish Borders, Ruberslaw offers remote pitches in pine woods, far from civilisation. They also have woodlandsited two-bedroom safari tents –for campers wanting peace and quiet, but with a few more comforts. The business has been designed using sustainable principles, with measures in place to minimise the use of electricity and water, compost waste, and minimise the site’s impact on the beautiful local environment. They also grow their own plants and vegetables, so campers can buy home-grown produce. ruberslaw.co.uk 36
BritishTravelJournal.com
ABOVE: HIDDEN SPRINGS CAMPSITE, EAST SUSSEX ©VISITBRITAIN/ JOANNA HENDERSON. BELOW: RUBERSLAW CAMPSITE, HAWICK
HOW TO CAMP SUSTAINABLY
CYNEFIN, CARMARTHENSHIRE
Cynefin is a Welsh word that means 'habitat' or 'wild place' – and these 10 pitches set amongst woodland glades and wild meadows certainly fit the bill. As well as conventional pitches, the site includes two bell tents, a tipi, and a shepherd’s hut made from sustainable, locally sourced and recycled timber. “Probably the most special thing about our location,” says owner Kay Griffiths, “is the abundant wildlife, and our natural wildlife habitats. With no campers at the moment, the wildlife is taking over.” Regular visitors to the site include hares, buzzards, pied wagtails and red kites, and Kay and Judith work hard to encourage the wildlife and improve biodiversity at Cynefin, with bird boxes, dormouse boxes, insect homes, and a hedgehog house in the woods. cynefinecocamping.com
Leave no trace: Take everything with you when you go – it should look as though you’ve never been there. Stay close to home: You don’t need to travel a long way to immerse yourself in nature. Choose a location that’s not too far from where you live – without a long journey to contend with your trip will be more relaxing too. Ditch the car: If you choose a site in an amazing natural location, make the most of it – explore your immediate environment on foot (or by canoe) rather than driving to attractions further afield. Borrow a tent: If you’re not already a seasoned camper, borrow a tent and equipment from a friend rather than buying new. Or book into a glamping site, where the tent and everything else you need will be provided.
BELL TENT IN THE WOODS OF PEGS AND PITCHES, SUSSEX BEECH ESTATE
PEGS AND PITCHES, SUSSEX
Pegs and Pitches run two ecologicallyfocused, off-grid campsites in Sussex. Beech Estate consists of eight ‘wild glamping’ bell tents and 22 pitches, near Battle; and Wild Boar Wood is a site with just nine bell tents, near Haywards Heath. Both campsites are in woodland settings, in Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Beech Estate is located on a 2,100 acre private estate, where grass tracks crisscross the woodland, and bluebells cover the campsite in spring. Wild Boar Wood, meanwhile, is host to 22 different species of tree, 26 different types of birds and a huge variety of animal and plant life. “We place the environment at the heart of our campsites,” says Hugh Sandie, of Pegs and Pitches. “Our campsites are based on a philosophy of living lightly on the land, in harmony with nature. We believe the conservation of trees offers overwhelming benefits to our landscape and lives.” Both campsites are off-grid and use minimal, low-level lighting for facilities, to minimise the impact on the woodland wildlife and insects. pegsandpitches.co.uk
BritishTravelJournal.com
37
H E A LT H WHAT 'S NEW
Wellbeing | Health | Fitness | Mindfulness
SUPERIOR SEA VIEW SUITE Cornwall’s Talland Bay Hotel has extended part of the 16th century building to create additional ocean-fronting rooms, to include a spacious premier suite with private balcony overlooking the sub-tropical gardens and out over the bay. tallandbayhotel.co.uk
TRAVEL DESTINATION FOR TOTAL SECLUSION AND PRIVACY Enjoy the beauty of Northern Ireland from the comfort of a bespoke Stargazing Forest Dome at Finn Lough Resort, Enniskillen, a two hour drive from Belfast. The unique back-to-nature domes resembling giant bubbles offer a complete post-lockdown digital detox with no wifi or TV, allowing you to escape the noise of the outside world. Relax and dream while watching the water and wildlife passing by. The cabins are beautifully chic, with a luxurious four-poster bed, waterfall shower, vintage record player, underfloor heating and telescope - each overlooking the stunning Lough Erne. Prices from £265 per night including breakfast and complimentary bike hire. finnlough.com
TOUGH DAY TRIPPER
The Trailhead Pack is super comfy, durable, and lightweight - perfect for a day hike and useful beyond the beaten track – doubling as your trusty everyday bag. £59.99 kathmandu.co.uk
WE LOVE
WILDERNESS CHEF
LIFE'S A BEACH
REMOTE ADVENTURES
Situated on a seven mile coastal footpath in West Experiential travel specialists, Pelorus, and Sussex, these stylish and cosy Beachcroft Beach glamping pioneers, Camp Kerala, have joined Hut suites make the ideal bolthole with room service together to offer luxury mobile tented camp available. Prices from £237 B&B per night. experiences in remote destinations across Britain. beachcroftbeachhuts.co.uk pelorusx.com /campkerala.com
The Ultimate Guide to Cooking Outdoors The first cookbook from the outdoors legend, Ray Mears, shows you how to make delicious, flavoursome food in the open air for a summer where it is more important than ever. Published by Bloomsbury, £20 bloomsbury.com
BritishTravelJournal.com
39
10 of the best
S E L F C AT E R I N G PROPERTIES Words | Emma O'Reilly
40
BritishTravelJournal.com
Why risk going on a plane when there are amazing self-catering options on our doorstep? We bring you some of the very best…
As a nation, we are blessed with such a wealth and variety of scenery, history and culture that a home turf holiday is always a delight… and it’s kinder to the environment too. The sun may not always shine, it’s true, but if you have one of these dashingly good-looking holiday homes to hole up in, we reckon you will feel like you’re in the sweetest place on earth!
DEVON
THE BOTHY, DARTMOOR
1
This decadently romantic bijoux bolthole has been really thought out by its interior designer owner. The main living space has a sofa, woodburner and king size bed – just the place for breakfast with dreamy moorland views. For a close-up, search for wild Dartmoor ponies on any number of exhilarating walks. The holiday let has a private garden with fire pit and access to the owner’s tennis court – handy if you have a Devonshire cream tea to work off. * The Bothy can be booked through Boutique Retreats, who try to bridge the gap between boutique hotels and traditional holiday cottages. They have properties all over the UK and can organise catering and food deliveries. boutique-retreats.co.uk
BritishTravelJournal.com
41
NORTHUMBERLAND
THE BRIDGE BARN
2
Overlooking the ruins of medieval Warkworth Castle is The Bridge Barn, a small and stylish property suitable for two adults and two children up to the age of 12. We love its simple character and charm and the village location, with walks and rowing boats on the Coquet River almost from the doorstep, a fabulous sandy beach an easy walk away, plus all the attractions and wild beauty of Northumberland accessible by car. * The Bridge Barn can be booked through Coquet Cottages - a small team who specialise in luxury, dogfriendly, cottages in Northumbria and know the area and the cottages well. coquetcottages.co.uk
COTSWOLDS
JASMINE COTTAGE
3
Cute cottage in the Cotswolds? Yes please! Jasmine Cottage is as quintessential as they get, with wisteria around the door and a pretty country style with a French twist. It sleeps three, in one double, and one adorable single, bedroom. The cottage is in the sleepy village of Windrush, less of a honeypot than many others in the Cotswolds, with lovely walks around the Windrush Valley – it’s a two mile ramble to the National Trust village of Sherbourne. * Jasmine Cottage can be booked through Cotswold Hideaways who are a relatively new company specialising in this appealing patch of England.
cotswoldhideaways.co.uk
42
BritishTravelJournal.com
NORFOLK
SWANTON COTTAGE
5
The north coast of Norfolk attracts the wellheeled, drawn by its beautiful beaches and great accommodation. Swanton Cottage is near the gorgeous Georgian town of Holt as well as some of the area’s best swathes of sand. The house sleeps 12 so is ideal for extended families or a gaggle of friends. Highlights include the big, sociable kitchen/diner and, outside, an old glasshouse with table for dining on summer evenings. A tennis court, five acres of woodland and a play room will keep kids occupied. * Swanton Cottage can be booked through Barefoot Retreats, who specialise in laidback luxury in the north of Norfolk. Their concierge service supplies not just the usual restaurant bookings and babysitting but also cool things like hiring a luxury bell tent for kids in the garden, a hot tub for the weekend, or in-house cocktail making classes. barefootretreats.co.uk
CORNWALL
THE CHALET
4
This county is not short on stellar beaches and The Chalet has dazzling views over one of the best – Carbis Bay. The architect designed pad is uber modern, with two ensuite bedrooms (two king size beds, one an optional twin), a snazzy kitchen and an upside-down layout with living area upstairs, for maximum vista drooling time. Lovely St Ives is just a one mile stroll along the coast. * The Chalet can be booked through Cornish Gems who have over 180 special places to stay across Cornwall and pride themselves on their customer service. cornishgems.com
BritishTravelJournal.com
43
DENBIGHSHIRE
EIRIANFA
ABERDEENSHIRE
GARDEN ROOMS AT FASQUE CASTLE
6
You can be sure of a warm welcome in the Welsh hillsides at this divine old farmhouse near Ruthin. It has a proper country kitchen, with Aga to cook and warm socks on and cosy living room with wood burner. Rather unusually, although Eirianfa sleeps just four people, it has the facilities of many much larger houses, including a wonderful games barn with hot tub and bar. Oh, and did we mention that the private garden is 17 acres, complete with lake and rowing boat? * Eirianfa can be booked through Unique Homestays who offer magical homes in jaw dropping locations throughout the UK. They are incredibly fussy about the homes they market (and inspect every one), meaning that loyal fans trust them implicitly .
8
uniquehomestays.com
cottages-and-castles.co.uk
COTSWOLDS
THE BARNHOUSE
7
This one of a kind barn boasts interiors designed by Kate Moss and is secreted away in the woods. The design is eclectic and luxurious, with raw silk carpeting, priceless pieces of art and dramatic furniture statements. The open plan living and dining spaces look out through a spectacular wall of glass, with views extending across the adjacent Bowmoor Lake. * The Barnhouse is a property on the luxury Lakes by Yoo estate, bookable directly (thelakesbyyoo.com) or through Orion Holidays, specialists in self-catering holiday homes in the heart of the Cotswold Water Park. The area is beautiful with over 150 lakes spread over 40 square miles covering 14 different Cotswold villages and a wide range of leisure activities. orionholidays.com
44
BritishTravelJournal.com
Calling all fairytale princesses…. the Garden Rooms at Fasque Castle await you. This tiny turreted pile is cosy inside, with roaring fires both in the living room and the suitably grand and girlie bedroom. The estate has acres to roam, with woodland, resident red deer and a small chapel. Down the road are beautiful walks beside the River Esk and further afield the more challenging Cairngorms and Angus Glens, plus fantastically unspoilt sandy beaches. This part of Scotland gets its fair share of chilly days – just the excuse to warm up with a wee dram or two of whisky at the nearby Fettercairn Distillery. * The Garden Rooms at Fasque Castle can be booked through Cottages and Castles who have been in business for over 35 years and have 600+ quality Scottish properties on their books to suit every pocket.
DORSET
LULWORTH COVE HOUSE
9
This is self catering with knobs on! Such hedonism doesn’t come cheap but you could spend your whole time here without budging. Facilities include a stunning indoor pool, terrace with sea views, bar, cinema room, games room and 10 ensuite bedrooms. The house is
essentially a giant thatched cottage, with a sleek, modern interior. Pretty Lulworth Cove is minutes away on foot.* Lulworth Cove House can be booked through The Wow House Company. They offer large, extra special houses and can help clients with catering, entertainment and activities. thewowhousecompany.com
WHAT TO CHECK BEFORE YOU BOOK…
THE LAKE DISTRICT
ROSE CASTLE COTTAGE
10
If remote beauty is the new luxury, then Rose Castle Cottage, once owned by Beatrix Potter, is one opulent place. It sits just above tinkling Tarn Hows, with not a neighbour in view. This is a low-tech pad for four people – off grid electricity, no TV, dishwasher, microwave, or even WiFi, so it’s definitely the place to bring teenagers to cold turkey! But who needs screens when the whole Lake District is on your doorstep? Tramp in the fells or to the jetty where you can climb aboard the old Steam Yacht Gondola for a cruise on Coniston Water. * Rose Castle Cottage can be booked through National Trust Holidays.The National Trust restore historic properties throughout the UK, keeping their unique character. Money from bookings helps protect them for future generations.
• How the company ensure properties are COVID-19 safe. This should at the least involve thorough antibacterial cleaning but might also include a key safe so that guests don’t have to meet owners or, even better, contactless entry. • If there is a possibility for an early check-in or late check-out. • When the low, mid and high seasons are for your property. • What extras you’ll have to pay for. Ask also whether an end of stay clean is included. • Compare like with like. Bear in mind you are likely getting more indoor and outdoor space for your money and saving money by having a kitchen to cook in. Also factor in things like parking, extras provided etc. • The cancellation policy. Some let you cancel up to the day before your trip, others might charge a percentage or all costs, depending upon when you cancel. Check the COVID-19 policy, too. Would you be refunded if you had to cancel because of it?
nationaltrust.org.uk/holidays
BritishTravelJournal.com
45
R E V I VA L OF
Colourful beach huts at 46 BritishTravelJournal.com Southwold on the Suffolk coast
Jaunty, jolly bathing huts line the shore at many of our favourite seaside resorts, as much part of the great British seaside as piers and Punch & Judy – we look at how a simple seaside storage shed became a covetable coastal property Words | Adrienne Wyper
THE
B E AC H HUT
Ă BritishTravelJournal.com
47
L
OOKING AT A ROW OF BEACH HUTS, if you imagine them with wheels, you can see their past iteration as bathing machines. These were wheeled contraptions, pulled by horses, or occasionally humans, designed to convey bathers into the sea out of sight of those on the shore. Sea-bathing (and drinking seawater) took off in the late 18th century for its health benefits. King George III was instrumental in popularising it and at Weymouth, Dorset there’s a replica of the bathing machine built for his 1789 visit. The original remained in use until 1916. The terms ‘bathing’ and ‘dipping’ were used rather than ‘swimming’, as people simply submerged themselves, then clambered back into the machine. Into the 1800s, beaches were gender-segregated, with many men going naked. Later in the century the advent of the railway and the introduction of paid holidays brought seaside day trips within everyone’s reach. Mixed-sex bathing began to spread as the 20th century dawned, influenced in part by European attitudes. To maintain standards of public decency, people still needed somewhere to change, so tents were set up. An echo of these are Weymouth’s hybrid ‘wooden tents’, first erected in the 1920s, with wooden frames and canvas panels.
PICTURED CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: WOODEN TENTS AT WEYMOUTH BEACH, DORSET; REPLICA OF KING GEORGE III’S BATHING MACHINE, WEYMOUTH, DORSET; PASTEL-COLOURED BEACH HUTS, LYME REGIS, DORSET (ALL © ADRIENNE WYPER); BOURNEMOUTH BEACH LODGES, BOURNEMOUTH, DORSET (© BOURNEMOUTH, CHRISTCHURCH & POOLE TOURISM); COLOURFUL BEACH HUTS AT WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA. PREVIOUS PAGE © HELEN HOTSON/ SHUTTERSTOCK
48
BritishTravelJournal.com
Pictured above: Bathing machines in the early 20th century, Great Yarmouth, Norfolk The earliest purpose-built beach huts were built in Bournemouth, Dorset in 1909 for annual renting. Today the town has over 1,900, 500 council-owned, a tenth of the UK total. In the 1930s the focus moved to sun worshipping. More beach huts and lidos were built, as beachgoers bared more of their bodies. After the Second World War, during which British beaches were closed, beach holidays became more popular: boom time for the beach hut. Cheap package holidays in the 1970s drew holidaymakers abroad, and the humble beach hut fell out of favour. However, nostalgia for childhood bucket-and-spade holidays, and the appeal of a pared-back, outdoorsy lifestyle, have attracted a new generation of beach hutters. The basic design has remained constant: a wooden box, often with a verandah and canopy and steps, but terraces of concrete huts have also been built. Within this basic uniformity there’s plenty of scope for owners to express themselves, with the name, interior decor and exterior colour scheme. All huts are numbered, but many boast names too, with puns particularly prevalent: Jabba, Vitamin Sea, Salty Groyne, Shore Thing, Life’s a Beach, while others summon up the laidback feel of life by the sea: Happy Days, Love Shack, Flip Flops… Some interiors are purely functional, while others are decorated as lovingly as the owners’ homes, often with a retro, vintage feel or shabby chic look. The seaside theme abounds, with driftwood accessories, anchor motifs and fishy fabrics. Such playfulness also extends to the exterior, with most owners favouring cheerful stripes and bright colours. Council-owned huts can have a pleasingly coherent palette, as at Lyme Regis in Dorset, while privately owned huts are a riot of clashing colours. Some see their huts as simply a shed to stash kayaks, paddleboards, fishing rods, wetsuits or swimming kit, while for others it’s a contemplative space for wave-watching, a haven from the outside world. à
BritishTravelJournal.com
49
Perhaps the reason that beach huts are so sought after now is that demand outstrips supply. They’re found all around the British coast, with most along the south coast. Local authorities rent theirs out by the year, month, week or even day. There are often residents-only restrictions and a waiting list. In some areas, such as Swansea, draws are run to select the next lucky renter. According to a 2019 survey, the average rent at sought-after beauty-spot Mudeford Spit, Christchurch, Dorset, is £3,816 a month, whereas one in Whitstable, Kent, will set you back £1,184 a month. If you’d like to buy one, be aware that sky-high asking prices have hit the headlines; last summer, five huts went on sale at Mudeford Spit for £250,000 each. They have no water or electricity, but – unusually – you are allowed to sleep overnight, so they’re more of a holiday home. At the other end of the scale, there’s currently one for sale in Felixstowe, Suffolk for £8,000. In addition to the purchase price, hutters need to budget for insurance, council tax, licensing fees and maintenance. Another thing to bear in mind is that beach huts are difficult to secure, and empty for long periods, leaving them vulnerable to damage by vandalism (or storms and high tides), theft, graffiti or arson. Earlier this year, huts at Weston-super-Mare, Somerset were swept away by high tides. The Queen’s beach hut at Holkham in Norfolk was burnt down in an arson attack in 2003.
PICTURED ABOVE: BEACH HUTS AT HERNE BAY, KENT © VISIT CANTERBURY BEACH HUTS, DECKCHAIRS AND WINDBREAK, SOUTHWOLD, SUFFOLK © VISIT BRITAIN
50
BritishTravelJournal.com
However, huts can earn their keep; if you own one, it can usually be rented out for up to £60 a day in spring/summer. Tempted by a temporary stay? Find huts to hire by the day at Beach-Huts.com (beach-huts.com) or contact local authorities. Sleeping in a traditional hut is a rare treat due to local authority legislation, but lots of coastal accommodation has the same vibe. Shaldon Beach Hut in south Devon is the real deal, with high-end finishes and stunning views, from £130 a night. (quirkyaccom.com/shaldon-beach-hut-1) There’s a trend for hotels and restaurants to open their own beach huts. In Whitstable, the Hotel Continental has converted fishermen’s huts, from £85 a night (whitstablefishermanshuts.com). In Devon, spa hotel Cary Arms offers beach huts on Babbacombe beach, from £269 a night. The luxuriously designed Beach Hut Suites at The Beachcroft Hotel, Felpham, West Sussex, are right by the sea, and breakfast is delivered, all from £250 a night. (beachcroftbeachhuts.co.uk)
PICTURED ABOVE: INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR OF BEACHCROFT BEACH HUTS, WEST SUSSEX; ALL OTHER IMAGES BOURNEMOUTH BEACH HUT (© BOURNEMOUTH,CHRISTCHURCH & POOLE TOURISM). MAIN IMAGE: FAMILIES ENJOYING THE BEACH AT WHITLEY BAY, TYNE AND WEAR (© SOLSTOCK)
Some enterprising local authorities, such as Bournemouth, have created a new beach hut/beach house hybrid, Bournemouth Beach Lodges (bournemouthbeachlodges. co.uk), one of which is wheelchair-accessible, from £325 for four nights, and Beach Pods at Boscombe, designed by Wayne and Gerardine Hemingway. These modern beachside bases, housed in the Overstrand building, which is also home to showers, a restaurant, surf shop and school, cost from £145 a week. You can’t stay overnight, but the pods have electricity, kitchenette and original artwork. Whether you buy, rent, hire or borrow, the beach hut is a stalwart of the great British seaside with no signs of waning in popularity, enabling us to enjoy being by the sea, whatever the weather, for generations to come. u
BritishTravelJournal.com
51
SUBSCRIBE TO
B R I T I S H T R AV E L J O U R N A L . . . AND RECEIVE THE ULTIMATE GETAWAY ESSENTIAL FROM NOBLE ISLE WORTH OVER £20 - ALL FOR JUST £19!
Luxury free gift
WORTH OVER
£20!
Return the form opposite or subscribe online britishtraveljournal.com/subscribe
SUBSCRIBE TODAY! I WOULD LIKE TO SUBSCRIBE TO BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL STARTING WITH CURRENT ISSUE SUMMER 2020 NEXT ISSUE AUTUMN/WINTER 2020
STRAIGHT
TO YO U R D O O R . . .
1 YEAR £19
2 YEARS £35
POSTAGE OUTSIDE THE UK 1 YEAR £45
AND NEVER MISS ANOTHER ISSUE
2 YEARS £75
I WOULD LIKE A NON-RENEWING SUBSCRIPTION: 1 YEAR £20
2 YEARS £40
POSTAGE OUTSIDE THE UK B R I T I S H T R AV E L
1 YEAR £50
JOURNAL S U M M E R 2 0 2 0 | I S S U E 06
BritishTravelJournal.com
BILLING ADDRESS
CITY | COAST | COUNTRY
small island big heart
NAME
the rise of the staycation
CORONAVIRUS: WE LOOK AT HOW THIS INCREDIBLE NATION HAS RESPONDED TO ONE OF ITS TOUGHEST CHALLENGES
2 YEARS £80
ADDRESS
FROM IDYLLIC SECRET ISLANDS TO EXPLORING ENGLAND'S NEW COASTAL ROUTE AND FINDING YOUR PERFECT HOLIDAY HOME
WIN
a two-night stay in Padstow, Cornwall with Rick Stein
POST CODE EMAIL POSTAL ADDRESS IS SAME AS BILLING ADDRESS
£6.75
I WOULD LIKE A GIFT SUBSCRIPTION TO BE SENT TO THE FOLLOWING ADDRESS
beautiful destinations • michelin star restaurants • hotels & sPas • exPeriences • adventures • travel news
NAME ADDRESS B R I T I S H T R AV E L JOURNAL
BRITISH WINTER 2019 | ISSUE 04
new-age sPas
SPRING 2019 | ISSUE 01
FROM SOPORIFIC SOOTHING IN SUBTERRANEAN LABYRINTHS TO ICE TREATMENTS BY THE OCEAN A NEW ERA OF ZEN IS UPON US!
stargazing DISCOVER NEW WORLDS WITH THE DARK SKIES FESTIVAL
TRAVEL
J O U R N A L
BritishTravelJournal.com
CITY | COAST | COUNTRY
BritishTravelJournal.com
POST CODE
CITY | COAST | COUNTRY
B R I T I S H T R AV E L
the great outdoors
JOURNAL
BRITAIN'S NATIONAL TRAILS OFFER SOME OF THE LOVELIEST COUNTRYSIDE IN THE WORLD
AU T U M N 2 0 1 9 | I S S U E 0 3
BritishTravelJournal.com
CITY | COAST | COUNTRY
IN THE STARS
GASTRONOMIC DELIGHTS AND A CONSTELLATION OF MICHELIN STARS JUST WAITING TO BE EXPLORED
taste a destination
take a journey
VISA VISA DEBIT MASTERCARD AMEX (payee Contista Media Ltd) ISSUE NO. (AMEX) CHEQUE CARD NO. CSV EXPIRY DATE M M Y Y SIGNATURE DATE D D M M Y Y
DREAM ESCAPE
AUTUMN FORAGING HOLIDAYS THE REMARKABLE ISLANDS DISCOVER
EDINBURGH TO THE CALEDONIAN FOREST
AND BREATHTAKING LANDSCAPES OF ORKNEY AND THE OUTER HEBRIDES
Interview raymond blanc CELEBRATES TWO BIG MILESTONES THIS YEAR
£5.00
£5.00
WIN
£5.00
a luxury short break for two in
EVENTS Exeter!■ IDYLLIC DESTINATIONS ■ MICHELIN STAR RESTAURANTS ■ LUXURY HOTELS ■ NEW EXPERIENCES
EVENTS ■ IDYLLIC DESTINATIONS ■ MICHELIN STAR RESTAURANTS ■ LUXURY HOTELS ■ NEW EXPERIENCES
OR WHY NOT SUBSCRIBE AS A GIFT FOR SOMEONE SPECIAL?
#
idyllic destinations • michelin star restaurants • hotels & sPas • exPeriences • adventures • travel news
Return to: Contista Media Ltd, Mitchell House, Brook Avenue, Warsash, Hampshire, SO31 9HP * Ts & Cs: Limited time only, while stocks last. Gift is for UK subscriptions only. Contista Media is compliant with GDPR (General Data Protection Regulations) Your subscriptions data is only used for the purpose of processing your subscription. Your email address will only be used in order to contact you regarding renewing your subscription. We will not pass your details on.
ENGLAND'S C OA S T
Soon we will be able to lace up our boots and amble or ramble absolutely anywhere along the English coastline Words | Emma O'Reilly
54
BritishTravelJournal.com
IMAGE: DORSET COAST © BRUCE CUTTS
E
NGLAND’S BEACHES ARE perfect for long, lazy summertime sunning, swimming… and strolling! Soon, the latter will be made even easier, thanks to the England Coast Path. When completed it will be, at 2,795 miles, the longest coastal walking route on the planet, wiggling its way around the country’s entire coastline. As a nation, we are already blessed with many rights-ofway. A huge network of public footpaths plus some 15 longdistance UK National Trails existed well before this initiative. The current coastal trails are essentially being improved, adapted and extended to form one very long continuous route. Of course, you don’t have to do it all (but wow, wouldn’t that be amazing?). Dip in and out, starting and finishing where you please and getting some seriously healthy sea air into your lungs in between. Walk for an afternoon, a day, a weekend or more. The England Coast Path is a beautiful, ambitious venture. The idea is to open up the entire coastline to the public, to boost our health and our connection with nature. It’s also about connecting communities and energising coastal businesses. It’s a monumental task, and hasn’t been without its headaches – having to gain agreements from landowners and users, highway authorities and others to allow free access is not easy, not to mention the red tape involved in such a huge project… It was originally slated to finish this year - delays have meant that hasn’t happened but areas of the path are underway everywhere and coming to a coast near you! The signposted (look out for the acorn waymarkers) route hugs the coastline as much as possible, but in sections has to snake slightly inland to avoid obstructions, both natural and manmade. Walkers can enjoy vast sandy beaches, pebbly coves, soaring clifftops, woodland, moorland, saltmarshes and mud flats. Seaside villages will provide welcome rest stops for food and overnight stays. More industrial landscapes and towns and cities are not excluded either. It’s not just a footpath, however. New rights of way will mean walkers can access land between the path and the sea in many places. The England Coast Path is designed to outlast all of us – if any areas of the path are affected by coastal erosion in the future, then the path will be permitted to move further inland. Tony Juniper, Chair of Natural England who are overseeing and implementing the project says ‘“England’s wonderful coastline is a national treasure. Our flagship England Coast Path is taking people through some of the finest and most important landscapes in England, opening up access to historic landmarks, natural wonders and breath-taking scenery, enabling more visitors to experience, recognise and value the benefits of our environment.”
à
BritishTravelJournal.com
55
A VERY ENGLISH ADVENTURE
Open right now and ready to explore, here are some of England's Coast Path trails worth walking for… Portland to Lulworth This was the first section of the England Coast Path to open, in time for our 2012 Olympics so that spectators could have great viewing areas to watch the sailing events. The 20 mile trail starts on the isle of Portland. It then passes the ‘barrier’ beach of Chesil Beach – with its unique geology it’s a popular spot for twitchers, with nearly 300 bird species, as well as many types of butterfly and moth. Weymouth Beach is a good stop for sandcastle building before coming to Nothe Fort, with its dazzling views over the Jurassic Coast. The trail passes the natural rock sea arch of Durdle Door, the star of many a postcard, before finishing up in the perfect cove at Lulworth – treat yourself to a cream tea at the Boat Shed Café, right on the beach.
Pictured clockwise from above: Portland Bill Lighthouse; Pedn Vounder Beach, Cornwall; and Walking in Cornwall. 56
BritishTravelJournal.com
Filey Brigg to Middlesborough The longest section of the England Coast Path to open so far. At 68 miles long, it skirts the edge of the North York Moors National Park (look out for minke and humpback whales and dolphins). Carry on to the jolly seaside resort of Scarborough and the old smuggling village of Robin Hood’s Bay, its labyrinthine streets full of cosy cottages, pubs and shops. Whitby is next, where the ruined Gothic abbey provided inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula. Staithes is another gorgeous fishing village on the Path and the route travels up to clifftops nearby for sublime views over the little red roofed houses and 18th century harbour. The walk finishes at the starkly beautiful Tees Transporter Bridge in Middlesbrough.
Skegness to Mablethorpe The big open skies and vast beaches of the Lincolnshire coastline have always been a draw for walkers and artists. Now there’s improved access along this 16 mile stretch, particularly with the new boardwalks near the North Sea Observatory with its natural history displays, art space and café. Anderby Creek Cloud Bar (no, you can’t buy booze there) is the world’s first dedicated cloud observation platform where you can lie back and sort our your cirrus from your cumulus. A submarine forest dating from the Neolithic period is sometimes on view near Mablethorpe! The remains of this ancient woodland, which once stretched all the way from Lincolnshire to the mainland of Europe, can be seen poking up near the shoreline, especially in winter.
Folkestone to Ramsgate Kent’s coast is one of the most varied and historic in the UK, so this 37 mile stretch is a great addition to the England Coast Path. It kicks off in artsy Folkestone (worth a browse around the creative corner especially). The rest of the route combines sweeping beaches, Martello towers and castles, gentrified Deal, with its interesting historic quarter, ancient Sandwich, and the iconic White Cliffs of Dover (views right over to France on a clear day). Those wanting to stretch their legs further could start their walk at Camber, just over the border in East Sussex and walk the whole 66 miles now open between there and Ramsgate. Plus an extension from Ramsgate to Whitstable is coming soon.
South Bents & Amble A 44 mile tramp through Tyneside and Northumberland gives a good variety of coastline views, from the riverside area where the Tyne meets the sea to wild beaches and dunes and seaside resorts. Fans of the TV series, Vera, will recognise Whitley Bay, Cresswell and St Mary’s Island as regular filming locations. Also along the route are the Arbeia Roman Fort, which once guarded the main sea route to Hadrian’s Wall, at South Shields, Tynemouth Castle and Priory and Souter Lighthouse – the world’s first to run on electricity. Blyth Beach is big and sandy and recognisable for its brightly painted beach huts. u
BritishTravelJournal.com
57
SECRET
I SLAN
58
BritishTravelJournal.com
NDS The British Isles has some 6,000 islands to explore – some fully fledged tourist hotspots, others mere dots in the ocean. All have a story to tell Words | Emma O'Reilly
T
HERE’S SOMETHING SO special about small islands. Maybe it’s that feeling of escape, of going on an adventure. Perhaps it’s about being enveloped by the sight, sounds and smells of the sea, which soothe mind, body and soul. Islands create close knit communities – something many of us crave in the modern world. Locals have a fierce sense of their own identity and are desperate to protect their land, their way of life and their age old traditions. For visitors, life away from the mainland can be fascinating, quirky and a little old-fashioned, like stepping back into a more innocent time. The peace and quiet and lack of cars and big industry means that wildlife can proliferate and plant life can flourish, often creating unique biodiversities. Little light pollution means a nightly star show in the sky. Everything seems to slow down - which means we can slow down…surely one of the main benefits of a holiday? Seafood is always on the menu – and often plucked from the sea that very morning. A combination of healthy food, brisk walks and salty swims can definitely put colour in the cheeks and a smile on your face. There’s no need to jet away to far-flung climes. We are lucky to have so many special places within the British Isles, all just a boat or ferry, plane or even a canoe ride away, just waiting to be explored and easy to experience in a day, a weekend or longer. Here are some of our favourites – places where you can pretty much guarantee some beautiful solitude…
Pictured left and above: Aerial view
of Tresco; View from Eileen Shona
àà
BritishTravelJournal.com
59
Pe Fl New nz y d fo an ir r 20 ce ect 20 H w : eli it co h pt er s
Time to be... in the wilds of island life
28 miles off the Cornish coast, among the Isles of Scilly archipelago, is an island of empty beaches, deserted landscapes and endless seascapes. Rediscover time to be on Tresco this autumn... TRESCO.CO.UK/AUTUMN • 01720 422849
S PA & W E L L N E S S • A C C O M M O D AT I O N • A B B E Y G A R D E N • D I N I N G • G A L L E R Y
BURGH ISLAND
Devon Could there be a more glamorous island? The tiny and privately owned Burgh Island is famous for its connections with Agatha Christie, who wrote Evil Under the Sun and And Then There Were None whilst staying in the hotel. It still has a vibe that is pure 1920s Art Deco and every night is black tie night in the hotel’s Grand Ballroom. Non-residents are not allowed in unless they have booked lunch, afternoon tea or dinner. Anyone can, however visit the 14th centry Pilchard Inn, and take a walk with a view. Getting to the island is…. interesting. When the tide is low, walk across the sand from Bigbury-on-Sea – it’s around 250 metres. Hotel guests get transported in a
hotel Land Rover or, if the sea has closed in, on the extraordinary ‘sea tractor’. Bigbury-on-Sea is a glorious beach, with a great little eatery – the Venus Beach Café - and a water sports centre. Paddle boarding, water surfing and kite surfing are all on offer,or it’s a great place to just pootle around rock pools. Where to stay In the Burgh Island Hotel, of course. Best room is Agatha’s Beach House. If your pockets aren’t deep enough to stay, an excellent alternative is the Burgh Island Causeway apartments on the other side of the water. That way you can sit on your balcony and admire views of the island and hotel…and even sneak across for dinner!
à BritishTravelJournal.com
61
THE FARNE ISLANDS
Northumberland Many of us have heard of Holy Island (aka Lindisfarne) but less well known are the Farne Islands, 7.5 miles away as the boat sails and scattered a couple of miles off shore near Seahouses. They are one of the best places in the UK to see wildlife – Sir David Attenborough’s favourite, in fact! Hop on a boat from Seahouses harbour to pootle around them (up to 28 depending on the height of the tide) whilst seals bob in the sea and bask on rocks. If you are lucky you may spot wild dolphins, too. There are a couple of stops where you can get off to get up close to thousands of breeding sea birds in the late spring and summer, including cute Puffins, Arctic Terns and Eider Ducks. On Inner Farne there’s a chapel, built in the 14th century and dedicated to St Cuthbert, who lived as a hermit and died here in the 7th century. Golden Gate Farne Island Tours also takes visitors to Longstone Island. It was once home to Grace Darling, whose father ran the lighthouse, which visitors can tour. She became a local heroine in 1838 at the age of 22 when she rescued passengers from a sinking paddle steamer.
62
BritishTravelJournal.com
Where to stay Coquet Cottages have self catering accommodation in this area, including the quirky Gin Gan, sleeping six, near Seahouses. Interesting fact – a Gin Gan is another name for structures once built to house a horse engine – basically an engine powered by horses in order to operate machinery (it’s where the term ‘horse power’ comes from!). Or there’s cosy Curlew cottage for two in nearby Bamburgh, with its atmospheric castle and huge sandy beach.
HERM
Channel Islands By day, this pocket-sized paradise bustles when the ferry arrives from Guernsey (they call it the ‘mainland’!) and day trippers descend to eat, shop and explore. Those in the know, however, spend their entire holiday here – and have the place to themselves once the ferry departs. Activities tend to be of the spontaneous variety - crabbing and rock pooling, kayaking (with ‘puffin patrols’ from April until July) and Stand up Paddleboarding. The whole island is walkable in two hours, taking in hulking cliffs, rolling fields, wild flowers, dreamy beaches and a tiny chapel. The very best thing to do here, however, is to be inactive. What a pleasure not to feel the need to visit a castle or a museum, to be able to stretch out on a perfect stretch of sand and totally unwind. We love the long sweep of Shell beach (it really is made up of millions of tiny shells) and Belvoir Bay’s cove of ice-cream coloured sand – like something from an Enid Blyton novel. Where to stay There are cottages, and a campsite with views. The White House Hotel is delightfully old fashioned (croquet, tennis, no clocks or televisions), there’s a pool for warm days and the food is excellent – don’t miss the oysters, grown just offshore.
BritishTravelJournal.com
63
JURA
Argyll & Bute Come to this Inner Hebridean island for untamed Scottish scenery. George Orwell lived here on and off for years and it’s where he finished writing his novel, 1984. The island is best known for its whisky, though. Take a distillery tour, then enjoy a dram or two of single malt in the local pub, next door…which is also the only hotel on the island. It’s possible to bring a car on the ferry but, with just one main road along the 30 mile length, most places are accessible only on foot. This is a walkers’ paradise. You are sure to spot red deer, which outnumber locals by around 30 to 1. There are large birds too, including golden eagles. The west coast has incredible beaches, seals
64
BritishTravelJournal.com
aplenty and, if you’re lucky, otters. Dotted around the island are iron age forts and ancient standing stones. The three ‘Paps’ mountains are a good climb (Paps is an old Norse word for breasts and they were named so due to their conical shape!). From the summits are incredible view over neighbouring islands and the Mull of Kintyre. Where to stay The Jura Hotel is cosy and welcoming, with breathtaking harbour views. As well as the aforementioned pub it has a restaurant specialising in fish, seafood and venison. It’s in Craighouse, the only proper village. Most of the local population live here and it’s where you will find Jura’s only shop, school and church.
FLAT HOLM
Wales Strategically, Flat Holm, five miles from Cardiff and Barry, has always held an enviable position – in the Bristol Channel with views to the coasts of both Wales and England. It has led to a varied past as a smuggler’s haunt, isolation hospital for victims of cholera and the bubonic plague (the ruins of the building still visible today), and a fortress in Victorian times as well as the Second World War. It also received the first ever radio message across water by Italian inventor Marconi in 1897. Guided tours tell more and, on a day trip here, there’s also time to have a drink at Wales’ most southerly pub – The Gull and Leek. The name gives a clue to the island’s most prolific residents – wild leeks and lesser black-backed gulls. There’s also a lighthouse dating back to 1737. The light here, once coal powered, is now solar powered – very eco-friendly! Where to stay Most people visit for the day from Mermaid Quay at Cardiff harbour (50 minute journey), but dormitory style or camping is available in the Grade II listed Fog Horn Cottage. A successful wellness retreat, Sanctuary in the Sea, was organised by Cardiff Harbour Authority last summer and is to be repeated this year. It includes yoga, meditation, Reiki and vegan food.
à BritishTravelJournal.com
65
TRESCO
Cornwall Those who visit the Isles of Scilly, 28 miles off the coast of Cornwall, are usually seduced into coming back time and again. You can get there by ferry or small plane, the Isles of Scilly Skybus, and the new direct helicopters from Penzance. Once there it feels a million miles away from the rest of England. Tresco is a great choice – with a relaxed, sophisticated vibe, and plenty to see and do. Pick of the bunch is the Abbey Garden with its tropical vegetation and Valhalla Museum displaying the eerily beautiful painted figureheads from local shipwrecks. You’ll want to get onto and into the water. As well as swimming and island hopping, visitors can sail, hire motor boats or snorkel with seals. Where to stay Tresco Sea Garden Cottages stylishly sleep between 2 and 10 people, with jolly interiors and facilities including access to a swimming pool, tennis court and spa. Breakfast and dinner is offered for those in the smaller cottages, served at the Ruin Beach Café (converted from old gig boat sheds) nearby. Larger accommodation is restricted to weekly bookings, with self catering only.
66
BritishTravelJournal.com
EILEAN SHONA
Scotland Step from the little boat on to Eilean Shona and you feel as if you are in a storybook. It’s fitting, as this speck floating in Loch Moidart on Scotland’s west coast was where JM Barrie spent Summer 1920, writing the script for Peter Pan. He was accompanied by Michael, his foster son and inspiration for the boy who never grew old (tragically Michael drowned in the Thames a year later so his vision came true). It’s easy to explore this car-free, ecofriendly, Neverland-in-miniature. Tramp through woods filled with pine trees, encountering Red Squirrels, Red Deer, Pine Martens and Otters. A circumnavigation of around 10 miles can easily while away
a morning or longer. Then, picnic on a white sand beach and swim in turquoise seas (which could be in the Caribbean but for the Arctic temperatures) watching out for Minke Whales, Dolphins and Basking Sharks. Celebs love the away-from-it-all feeling on Eilean Shona. So does Sir Richard Branson – his sister Vanessa is guardian of the whole island! Where to stay Eilean Shona House is very boho chic, and it’s where the Branson family hole up when here (JM Barrie stayed, too). When they’re not, it’s rented out for up to 20 lucky people. Elsewhere are 8 cottages sleeping between 2 and 8 people. Our pick of the bunch is The Old Schoolhouse.
à BritishTravelJournal.com
67
CONEY ISLAND
County Armagh The National Trust owns this bijou and beautiful island in Lough Neagh, largest lake in the British Isles. Its seven acres are a nature reserve and an Area of Specific Scientific Interest, due to its breeding ducks and wet woodland. It has a rich history and evidence of humans living there as early as 8000 BC. St Patrick is thought to have stayed here, as did the future King Edward VII with his mistress Lillie Langry. It was the summer retreat of both a Viscount and a Baron. Irish chieftain, Shane O’Neill used the 16th century round tower as a lookout post and a place to store his treasures. You can still see it today, a romantic ruin surrounded by bluebells in the spring. There’s also an
68
BritishTravelJournal.com
Anglo-Norman motte and a holy well. It’s a fascinating place, totally wild and with a real ‘lost in time’ feeling and a little path cut through the woodland so that you can explore. Abháinn Cruises are the only company taking people there – a minimum of six, so take some friends. Don’t forget your picnic! Where to stay It’s an easy 35 minute or so drive from Belfast city centre to the Lockkeeper’s Cottage on the Toome Canal, where the boat trips leave for Coney Island. Or why not combine a city and nature trip? The Fitzwilliam Hotel is five star fabulous with lovely staff and a popular bar and it’s a short walk from all the city sights. u
CHANNEL ISLANDS
Just a stone's throw from the south coast of England lies the beautiful island of Alderney. With no crowds, no queues and no trafďŹ c jams our small island is looking forward to welcoming you with open arms once we are all able to return to a healthy and safe state of normality.
Meet the Maker
WAV E RIDER Dick Pearce have been producing beautiful, hand-crafted wooden bellyboards at their seaside workshop in Cornwall for over a decade. We head for the beach to meet the man behind the board… Words | Emma Johnson
T
he Cornish coastline is renowned the world over for its expansive white beaches, aquamarine sea, rugged cliffs, small coves and quaint harbours. It has been a surfing destination for decades, but at the same time retains a quirky, independent vibe that epitomises slow living, the beauty of the natural world and taking things easy. If it feels idyllic to visitors, that’s because it is. In Newquay, on Cornwall’s wild Atlantic coast, Jamie Johnstone is busy in his oceanside workshop cutting, shaping and bending plywood to a precise technique that is nearly 100 years old, and a closely guarded secret. Jamie is making bellyboards - simple wooden boards, cut in a narrow shape, with rounded ends and gently curved tips. The boards are stamped with his company’s playful logo, and painted in bright, sunny colours. Everything about them speaks to a passion for surfing, but also a commitment to timeless quality, heritage, fun and the unadulterated thrill of being in the ocean and riding its waves. à
70
BritishTravelJournal.com
BritishTravelJournal.com
71
72
BritishTravelJournal.com
“Fun. Connection to the ocean. Simplicity,” says Jamie. ““These boards are made to get people in the sea, to get them surfing, to get them smiling. What we love about bellyboarding is the pure and simple fun that you can have on a piece of plywood. And this is ultimately what drives the business.” SURF CULTURE Jamie has been at the helm of Dick Pearce Bellyboards for a decade, after he and his business partner Andy bought the company in 2010 - although bellyboarding itself has been around for nearly 100 years. Bellyboarding – which originated in Hawaii – arrived in England in the early twentieth-century. Influenced by what their Commonwealth comrades had told them about, British soldiers returning from the trenches of the First World War brought back ideas about the narrow wooden boards we know today, and they soon became an intrinsic and much-loved part of British beach culture. Charles Pearce, who initially ran a manufacturing business from a small workshop in South Molton, was
inspired by the ‘surf-riders’ he saw on the local beaches and began to experiment with making the boards himself. He was so good at it that, in the years after the Second World War, Charles Pearce and Sons’ wooden boards became a fixture on the beaches of the south west. After Charles died, he passed the business onto his son Dick, who, born and raised in Devon, immersed himself in the surfing culture, and became a true champion of British bellyboarding. For fifty years, he stuck to the family’s time-honoured production methods and materials and he refused to compromise on quality. When Dick died, Dick’s widow asked Andy, a long-time friend and surf shop owner, if we wanted to take over the business, along with his business partner Jamie. “There was one catch,” explains Jamie. “The original manufacturing methods used by Dick’s father were a safely-guarded family secret. Andy had to commit to buying the business before he was allowed to see anything of it.” Andy agreed, and the business, along with the original workshop and beautiful old wood-working equipment, passed into Andy and Jamie’s careful hands.
WOOD IS GOOD Dick’s commitment to only making wooden boards, even in the face of competition from disposable, imported, polystyrene bodyboards, is something Andy and Jamie have taken forward with passion. Beach lovers themselves, the company is determined to resurrect this wonderful piece of British heritage, not only for posterity reasons, but also because of the environmental impact of disposable boards. “Since the introduction of cheap foam boogie boards in the 1980s, there are now huge problems with these 'disposable' boards – which break quite easily - getting dumped at the beach in the summer holidays and polluting the seas,” says Jamie. “We want to bring the bellyboard back to its former glory. And it’s so satisfying to see more people taking up riding plywood again.” Sourcing their wood from sustainablymanaged forests in Europe, the plywood the company uses is carbon neutral in its growth and produces very little wastage. “It’s also incredibly strong, meaning our boards will last a lifetime,” says Jamie. “Sustainability is incredibly important to us. Outside of the bellyboards, we try to outsource all our accessories locally. Our board bags are made by the sailmakers in Padstow, and we are working this year on bags made from old sail cloth.” Continuing to make the boards in the same way they have always been produced is central to the brand’s success, but also clearly something Jamie and Andy are personally passionate about. Their workshop is now based in Newquay, à
BritishTravelJournal.com
73
where all the boards are cut, boiled, bent, sanded, sprayed and screenprinted, using an original template that’s been used for over 70 years. The team also use a lot of hand tools and original equipment from the Pearce family, which Andy inherited when he bought the business. “It’s a very dusty process in the workshop, but we love it,” says Jamie. The company also uses the traditional bending racks that have been used in board-making for generations, and have created around 10,000 boards in their time. “They’re rough and ready and all the boards come out with different bends, but we like that because it makes them all individual and gives them their own character,” says Jamie. BUILT TO LAST It’s clear that for both men, Dick Pearce & Friends is as much a passion project as it is a business. Jamie and Andy are fiercely protective of both the heritage that has come before them, and their commitment to promoting and continuing the culture of bellyboarding for generations to come. “The design of boards has remained the same over 60 years – and we are stoked to be continuing the tradition
and re-introducing people to this form of wave riding.” Passionate surfers themselves, who learnt to surf using bellyboards, Jamie explains how the life in Newquay - both personal and professional - is tied to the sea. Their workshop is right in the heart of Newquay, between Fistral and Towan beaches, and both Jamie and Andy often nip to the beach for a surf at lunch or after work to wash off the dust. “I’ve got very happy memories of learning to surf on my grandparents’ bellyboards from the sixties,” remembers Jamie. “The boards are still in the shed to this day, with the original (faded) logos on them. Bellyboarding was, for both of us, where our love for the ocean began. Our boards are lovingly produced to last a lifetime, and we hope you’ll pass your board on to the next generation, just like ours were passed down to us.” Jamie, who lives a few steps away from Fistral Beach, and surfs nearly every day, says that for him part of the magic of the business is being part of a community of makers and creators who are passionate about what they do. “I do find Cornwall an inspirational place to be. Bellyboarding is the earliest form of waveriding in Cornwall – it’s great to continue the tradition of making and riding boards here on our beautiful beaches.”u
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO BELLYBOARDING —
“What’s good about bellyboarding is how simple it is. It’s just a bent bit of plywood but it is so fun to use, and anyone can do it. Whether it’s a little kid or your grandmother.” Jamie Johnstone —
How to Start: “Just give it a go,” says Jamie. Walk out to waist deep water and look for clean breaking waves. Hold Tight: Position your board facing away from the waves, with the curve facing upwards, and make sure you hold your board tightly against your body as you take-off. Be Bold: And then, just kick off into waves, resting your belly on the board and allowing the wave to guide you towards the shore. Timing is Everything: You want to take-off just as a wave is breaking behind you. Keep Practising: “The good thing about bellyboarding, if someone’s never tried it before, it’s fun and easy. It’s a really good alternative to bodyboarding,” says Jamie. The more you practise the more you’ll improve your timing and technique. Adding Extras: “You can take flippers out to make it a bit more exhilarating,” says Jamie. And, when you get more confident, you can catch bigger waves and tubes.
74
BritishTravelJournal.com
STAYCATION ON DARTMOOR
Visit Bovey Castle for the ultimate staycation with 275 acres of grounds located on Dartmoor National Park explore nature trails, river walks and activities for families; make Bovey your holiday destination this summer.
BOVEY CASTLE | DEVON, TQ13 8RE
WWW.BOVEYCASTLE.COM
INTERVIEW WITH
RICK STEIN Award-winning chef Rick Stein talks Cornish beaches, cooking inspo and becoming Padstow’s biggest attraction Words | Chantal Borciani
R
ICK STEIN’S LOVE AFFAIR with Cornwall began in his childhood and has helped define his prestigious culinary career. “My parents had a house at Trevose Head from the late 1930’s so my memories go back to when I was extremely tiny in the early 50s; swimming at the beach below our house which is now where the lifeboat house is, buckets and spades, blue and very uncomfortable woollen swimming costumes,” explains Rick. In 1975, the chef set up a small fish restaurant on the harbourside in Padstow with his wife Jill and over the ensuing decades The Seafood Restaurant won international acclaim for its boat-fresh fish menu and put the picturesque Cornish haven on the map like never before. The Stein empire in Padstow has certainly blossomed – a café, deli and gift shop followed the restaurant, along with a cookery school, and a hotel and bistro up the lanes at St Petroc’s. Rick’s love and skill for cooking fresh seafood simply yet exquisitely secured book deals and ever popular TV series. Rick’s travel diaries from around the world have brought the flavours of the world into UK living rooms for decades and accompanying cookery books were – and continue to be – best sellers.
76
BritishTravelJournal.com
THE CALL OF CORNWALL Rick and Jill are now divorced but continue to run the businesses together. They expanded the Rick Stein dining concept with a small chain of eponymous restaurants bringing the fish-focused menus to other parts of the UK, but Cornwall remains closest to Rick’s heart. “I didn’t choose Padstow, Padstow chose me, it’s like when people say, ‘things happen for a reason’. In a weird way I think I couldn’t have ended up anywhere else,” Rick says. “I think the net result of lots of travel is actually to accentuate the unique qualities of somewhere like Cornwall rather than to diminish them, simply because when you’ve seen it all you start looking at our own sandy beaches, seafood and even the smell of seaweed on the rocks at Harlyn, with greater love.” “I love Padstow for its strong sense of identity. There are Cornish coastal towns that seem to exist almost solely for the summer season, and all but die at the end of October, but Padstow is very different. There’s a yearround community here, which makes the town feel very much alive, even in the depths of winter.” Forty five years after first opening its doors, The Seafood Restaurant is still one of Cornwall’s top dining spots, overlooking
The Seafood Restaurant, Padstow
Rick Stein, Porthleven
Rick Stein
Padstow harbour where Cornish fishing boats haul in their catch daily. “There are families that have been fishing out of Padstow for more generations than they can remember, and it’s a joy to watch the boats come in – it’s such an important part of our heritage,” the chef explains. “I originally got the idea for a fish restaurant in Padstow from a long departed hole in the wall restaurant near the quay in Falmouth called Mark’s Seafood Bar, it was somewhere where you could go in for mussels and fish pie but also grilled lobster and Dover
sole and they didn’t worry if you wore your yachting wellies and Cornish smock.” Rick’s cookery school, which also overlooks the Camel Estuary and is mere footsteps from The Seafood Restaurant, celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. “The architect who designed the whole building on South Quay, which contains the cookery school, pointed out that there was a rather spectacular space on the first floor with lovely views over the estuary to Rock. Jill suggested a cookery school and my original thought was turn it into a space to teach our chefs fish cookery away from à
BritishTravelJournal.com
77
Padstow, Cornwall
Salt and pepper prawns
Rick Stein, Porthleven
the heat and hurry of the restaurant kitchen. It soon became apparent though that many of our customers wanted to cook the same dishes as we did in the restaurant and so it grew.” All the dishes showcased at the school hail from Rick’s travels around the world including an Indian seafood course, courses from his TV series Secret France, and of course fish and shellfish sessions. Other day courses include one-dish workshops, children’s cookery classes and tasting evenings. “I love the cookery school because everyone seems to leave very happy indeed. I think they have a far greater understanding of what truly fresh seafood is like plus because we run it in a very relaxed and informal way they are not intimidated and soon realise they can cook the dishes as well as us. We also make sure that there’s plenty of nice cold white wine when they are sitting down to eat what they’ve cooked, which seems to be rather popular.” 78
BritishTravelJournal.com
Rick Stein, Sandbanks
THE STEIN EFFECT Over the past few decades, Cornwall has produced some of Britain’s most revered chefs and many – including Nathan Outlaw, whose Port Isaac restaurants boast three Michelin stars between them – started out at The Seafood Restaurant, honing their craft with Rick. From the use of British produce and seasonal cooking to the celebration of regionality and Cornwall’s place on the gastronomic map, Rick has paved the way for peers and the popularity of Cornwall for many. As with many top chefs, dining out is a savoured but rare treat. “I’m slightly ashamed to say I don’t get out much mainly because when I’m in Cornwall I have critical meals in any one of our nine places we have in Cornwall. But I love going to Nathan Outlaw’s and Paul Ainsworth’s and I know our staff enjoy eating at places including the Gurnards Head and St Kew Inn.”
COMPETITION
WIN A LUXURY STAY
Carbis Bay Beach Lodges
A keen walker, Rick will also be found enjoying the staggering scenery near his Cornish home. His favourite beaches along the north Cornish Coast include Harlyn, Trevone, and St George’s Well in the estuary, while his favourite walking trails begin just footsteps from his beloved Padstow. “The Camel Trail is very scenic, easy walking, both from Padstow to Wadebridge and then onto Bodmin with a sneaky stop off at Camel Valley Winery. Or catch the ferry over to Rock and walk along Daymer Bay to Bray Hill and around the back to get to St Enedoc Church, where Sir John Betjeman is buried.” From childhood memories on sandy beaches to his seafood restaurant that all but revolutionised the dining scene in the 90s and continues to be a Cornish calling card, this sunniest corner of England remains Rick’s heart and soul for good reason.
WHERE TO STAY Carbis Bay Beach Lodges A self-catering staycation to rival long-haul luxury With mesmeric views of St Ives Bay and direct access onto the awardwinning Carbis Bay beach, Carbis Bay Beach Lodges offer the ultimate in laid-back luxury. Each Beach Lodge offers three or four en-suite bedrooms, a large open-plan living space and
St Petroc’s, Padstow
dining room, kitchenette and a private garden, plus a hot tub overlooking the soft sands of Carbis Bay. Lodge guests are afforded a personal guest host available around the clock to take care of all requirements before and during their visit. Guests can also enjoy the award-winning C Bay Spa, which boasts a couples treatment room on stilts above the sands as well as an outdoor sauna pod, heated outdoor swimming pool and hydrotherapy pool. A personal chef, housekeeper and golf buggy will also be available seven days a week to ensure a flawless hospitality experience. Stay at Steins The full foodie experience Guests can stay at one of Rick Stein’s rooms around Padstow, which blend coastal design with luxury living. From the elegance of St Edmunds House, where six rooms enjoy a private garden with views across the Camel Estuary, to the contemporary boutique hotel rooms above The Seafood Restaurant itself or the self-catering sanctuary of romantic Bryn Cottage, the accommodation is some of the finest found in and around Padstow. Rick’s charming bistro in Padstow, St Petroc’s, features low wooden beams and cosy fireplaces and its ten rooms offer more stunning coastal accommodation with some rooms enjoying picturesque sea views. u
THE PRIZE
British Travel Journal is offering one lucky winner a one-day course for two at Rick Stein’s award-winning Cookery School in Padstow, plus two nights’ accommodation at St Petroc’s and a three-course dinner at The Seafood Restaurant.
HOW TO ENTER
Enter online at britishtraveljournal.com/ competitions. Last entries 30 September 2020. Terms and Conditions apply - please see website for further details. —
The Cookery School
Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, Rick Stein’s award winning Cookery School is perfect for anyone looking to improve their culinary skills, learn something new or simply have fun with friends while cooking and eating amazing food. On each course guests will enjoy demonstrations from Rick’s friendly team of expert chefs, hands on cooking demonstrations and of course, lots of delicious tasters! Throughout the day, students sit down and enjoy the fruits of their labour, enjoying all of the dishes they make accompanied by a glass or two of good wine. In the afternoon there will be a further demonstration to learn more recipes and kitchen techniques. There are plenty of exciting course options to choose from including classic fish and shellfish courses; Indian seafood; Vegetarian; Italian cooking, ‘Secret France’ and a special 20th Anniversary course. u
BritishTravelJournal.com
79
The Lowdown
WILD SWIMMING As your senses heighten and your mind calms, feel the benefits of connecting to nature, by immersing yourself in the outdoors and soaking up its awe-inspiring beauty Words | Lydia Paleschi
As an island nation with close affinities to the water there has long been a tradition of wild swimming in Britain. Wild swimmers take to nature’s open water spaces for an alfresco dip in all weathers and seasons, freeing themselves from the confines of indoor exercise spaces and chlorinated pools. In England and Wales, a ‘right to roam’ law means that we are permitted to swim in most rivers and lakes, whereas in Scotland all waters are accessible as long as swimmers uphold the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. In essence, as long as we respect the environment, each other and don’t trespass, Britain’s waterways are an easily accessible place to experience a fun form of exercise and a sense of adventure. It is unsurprising that there has been a surge in the popularity of wild swimming in recent years, as people take to the water to reconnect with nature. I caught up with Lauren Biddulph, who runs swimming retreats as part of the Salt Sisterhood based in Cornwall, to learn more about wild swimming and the benefits of immersing oneself in the open water. Lauren starts by clarifying to me that wild swimming can be in the sea, rivers or any open 80
BritishTravelJournal.com
Pictured: Lauren Biddulph, The Salt Sisterhood
expanse of water, and includes a range of experiences, from relaxed river paddles to more adventurous sea swims, each with their own benefits. “We like to showcase the diversity of wild swimming, so each day of the retreat has a different theme, reflected in the wild swimming activity we have planned. For example, on self-compassion day we may take a trip to the quiet Helford River, which is beautiful and calm, whereas on bravery day we go rock jumping.” Whilst originally offering wetsuits as part of her retreats, Lauren tells me that it is more beneficial to swim without them. She says she can’t encourage me enough to enter the water in just a bathing costume. “I initially hired wetsuits and some people wore them but they weren’t getting the full experience or benefit. By the end of the week everyone was out of the wetsuits and they felt a real sense of achievement; they said they got more from the experience when they were out of their wetsuits and a greater sense of freedom.” When I asked Lauren why she began offering wild swimming retreats, she explained that being in or near water has immense health benefits, both mental and physical. “I used to struggle a lot with anxiety and depression. I noticed that going into the sea gave me a sensation of connectedness and grounding, it got me out of my head, reminding me of the bigger picture of what is and isn’t important. When combined with yoga it helped me to build a better relationship with my mind and body and helped me to overcome my generalised anxiety.” It is this sense of empowerment and freedom that inspired Lauren to share the wild swimming experience with other women. à
BritishTravelJournal.com
81
82
BritishTravelJournal.com
“There is a physiological response in the body when we’re near water because life evolved from the water. You are in something much bigger than yourself and it can be dangerous, calm, frightening or relaxing. It’s a massive natural force that leaves you in awe and puts everything in perspective, resetting your mind and boosting your confidence.” Lauren reveals that as well as the benefits of wild swimming for wellbeing and mental health, there are also large swathes of research on its physical benefits. “Aside from being an excellent form of physical exercise, increasing overall strength and fitness, studies show that it also boosts metabolism, immunity, resilience and your rate of healing”. For those wishing to embark upon their own wild swimming experience, it’s as simple as doing a little research into your local area and heading there with a towel. Things to be aware of are ensuring that water is clean and unpolluted, that there are shallow entry points and that you know how you are going to get out. Ensure that you don’t jump into water without knowing it is deep enough and that for areas which have a current, you can swim against the current faster than it can take you. It’s advisable to go with someone else to spots you are visiting for the first time, but wild swimming is open to people of all abilities. This means there should be
nothing holding you back from enjoying the relaxing sense of weightlessness and invigorating experience of immersing yourself in nature. With thousands of miles of coastline and a vast network of rivers and estuaries we are spoilt for choice with waterside locations in Britain. We’ve decided to pick out some of our favourites for you to explore: Cornwall - The Salt Sisterhood, Helford Located on the banks of the Helford River, the Salt Sisterhood offers five-day wild swimming and yoga retreats for women. Here, they take a step away from the real world, immersing themselves in a bubble of self-care, nature and good food. The aim is for connection: to nature, other women and themselves. Retreats take place in June and September each year. Scotland - Dores Beach, Loch Ness, Inverness Sitting on the east side of Loch Ness, one of Britain’s largest lakes, Dores Beach is a popular spot for wild swimming and a great place to start for beginners. With shallow entry points and a wild swimming group meeting here every Saturday at 10am you can swim with confidence all whilst being encouraged by locals. The waters are cold but calm and the scenery is second to none. With awe-inspiring views of the Scottish Highlands and little signs of civilisation, swimming at Dores you find yourself in a cocoon of nature.
Wales - Llyn y Fan Fach, Brecon Beacons A high lake in the shadow of the Black Mountain, Llyn y Fan Fach sits in a sheltered bowl with stony, gently shelving sides. Reaching up to 18 meters in depth, it’s the perfect spot for diving and practicing your underwater swimming technique. Located in the Brecon Beacons National Park, Llyn y Fan Fach is breathtakingly beautiful and according to legend, the home of a lake nymph. Northern Ireland - Cushendun Beach, County Antrim Found in the heart of the Glens of Antrim and not far from the Red Caves where several Game of Thrones scenes were filmed, Cushendun is a sandy, rural beach with views across to the Mull of Kintyre. The beach slopes gently out to sea, with rivers at both ends so that you can explore the kelp fronds. The water here is crystal clear as long as you don’t visit shortly after rainfall when peat is carried down from the fields. London - Beckenham Place Park, Beckenham Accessible by tube, Beckenham Place Park’s nearest stations are Beckenham Junction (tram), Beckenham Hill and Ravensbourne (both Thameslink). London’s first purpose-built swimming lake is available for swimmers 8 years of age and over. Surrounded by trees and a grass area to sit and watch, the sandy banks make for a safe family fun swim. u
BritishTravelJournal.com
83
Author Contribution
STEPPING ON SET Discover the historic houses and wild landscapes that have inspired directors and cinematic moments in the UK Courtesy of | National Trust
National Trust on Screen by Harvey Edgington and Lauren Taylor is Published by Pitkin, an imprint of Pavilion Books.
Pictured right page: Ross Poldark (Aidan Turner) and Francis Poldark (Kyle Soller) at Wheal Owles
Priced £9.99 pavilionbooks.com
84
BritishTravelJournal.com
E
ACH MONTH, an average of nine shoots for TV dramas or films are taking place at National Trust properties across the UK, managed by the National Trust Filming and Locations team. From providing a spectacular ballroom for next year’s big costume drama, to a topsecret military installation for the next Bond film - there’s never a dull moment. Occasionally the queries can be a little bizarre explains Harvey and Lauren, National Trust location managers, whose favourites include "from what day will the lambs be born? to, do we have a hill they can roll a big cheese down? can we suspend a hot-air balloon between two huge cranes? and, have we any antique wooden legs?". These successful productions will often lead to a rise in visitors to the properties used. In addition to this, being in a film or TV series generates much-needed income for the location, which can be used for conservation work. Great Chalfield Manor for example reroofed its stables thanks to The Other Boleyn Girl and after Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland, Antony in Cornwall saw its visitor numbers quadruple. Hosting a film can also boost the local economy, as cast and crew need to be accommodated, transported and catered for. We hope you enjoy our selection of film locations to visit - you could even download the film and take it with you to stand in the exact spot where the director placed the camera. And, as good as these places look on screen, they are much better experienced in real life. à
Ã
BritishTravelJournal.com
85
LACOCK VILLAGE
Near Chippenham, Wiltshire If you’ve watched any of the most well-loved costume dramas made over the last few decades such as Downton Abbey, or a Harry Potter film, then you will have seen Lacock Village. The village is a firm favourite with film and television drama crews and makes an appearance in a major production at least once every couple of years. Almost entirely owned by the National Trust, the village’s pretty streets of timber-framed cottages have barely changed in 300 years. The fact that modern life has barely crept in, outwardly at least, means there’s not much in the way of 21st-century life to cover up or remove. Crews don’t have to worry about satellite dishes, telegraph poles or traffic lights. As a popular tourist spot filming only happens outside school holidays and other busy times. When it does, it’s never small scale. 86
BritishTravelJournal.com
Visit and experience Lacock Abbey where medieval rooms and cloister court give a sense of the Abbey's monastic past. Like Hogwarts, Lacock Abbey was built with a blend of quirky architectural styles. This former nunnery is a fascinating site, plus close by is the Fox Talbot Museum, that records the achievements of former Lacock resident William Henry Fox Talbot, a big name in the invention of photography. Top tip: Start your trip to Lacock with a pause at the window of the old shop at 2 High Street. In the late 19th-century the building was used as a coffee tavern, then after the First World War it became a stationers and in 1966, incorporated the Post Office. It remained in the same family until it closed in the early 1980’s. Miss Butler, the last resident, arranged the shop window in the style of early twentieth century displays and it has been untouched ever since.
CLIVEDEN
Taplow, Maidenhead, Buckinghamshire Elegant and striking Cliveden has long attracted the famous and infamous. Nancy Astor, the first female MP to take up her seat at Parliament and wife of Cliveden’s then owner, Waldorf Astor, held lavish house parties here in the 1930s; Winston Churchill, George Bernard Shaw and Charlie Chaplin were frequent guests. The 1960s brought the house worldwide fame due to its part in the Profumo Affair; Christine Keeler first met John Profumo here while having a dip in the swimming pool. The house is now a hotel but parts of it are open to visitors. Set high above the Thames and with far-reaching views, Cliveden’s impressive gardens and majestic woodlands capture the grandeur of a bygone age. Follow in the footsteps of dukes, earls and royalty as you explore the series of gardens, each with its own special charm. From the formality of the Parterre, with its vibrant floral displays, to the quirky statuary and topiary in the Long Garden, the gardens will delight you in every season. The formal gardens give way to secluded glades, treelined avenues and picturesque riverside with miles of woodland walks to discover. Top tip: Extend your trip with a luxury stay in Cliveden House, now a stately home turned five-star hotel. Steeped in over 350 years of history, the rooms and suites are beautifully decorated in regal style. The hotel offers hot tub rooms, Mansion House rooms and a separate Spring Cottage sleeping up to six. Looking for a romantic daytime activity? Hop into a boat and row serenely across the lake, while tucking into a picnic basket or sipping champagne, and from there you can join a guided tour. à
Pictured left: Downton Abbey (2019) Laura Carmichael (Lady Edith) Harry Hadden-Paton (Bertie Pelham) and Michelle Dockery (Lady Mary) between takes; Downton Abbey's Crawley family enjoying the livestock market. Pictured above: The French Dining Room, Cliveden House; Sherlock Holmes and a pillow; Robert Downey Jr. and Jude Law in character as Holmes and Watson.
BritishTravelJournal.com
87
HENRHYD FALLS
Near Coelbren, Brecon Beacons, Powys The Falls, nestled in the Brecon Beacons, are the highest in south Wales with a drop of 27 metres (89 feet). They occur at a geological fault on the river Nant Llech and are approached through a densely wooded valley. The Dark Knight Rises, starring Christian Bale, Michael Caine, Anne Hathaway and Joseph Gordon-Levitt was filmed at the falls in 2012. Although the entrance to the ‘bat cave’ was at Osterley Park and House, the director Christopher Nolan wanted the secret exit to be spectacular and natural. Henrhyd Falls ticks those boxes but obviously how spectacular it looks depends on the weather. The film crew couldn’t risk it looking anything other than a mini Niagara Falls. It was agreed to allow them to partially dam the river for several days in order to build up a reservoir of water to unleash as the camera rolled. The National Trust worked with the Environment Agency and the Countryside Council for Wales to manage any environmental impact. It was judged to be no different from having a wet spell in the summer, hardly unheard of in Wales. There was also a ‘test day’ to see if the desired effect was achievable. The water was held back by a rig of sandbags and a timber gate to control water flow. The crew had to walk their kit down a steep footpath and construct the camera on site. On the day a diversion was placed on the footpath. Once they were ready and Robin (Joseph Gordon-Levitt) was in position, the command was given: further up the river, the gate was opened and a torrent of water cascaded down as if in full spate for about ten minutes. Although the waterfall was made to look as if it hid a cave entrance and exit in the film, there is in fact no cave at Henrhyd – just a hollow behind the Falls. Usually such small scenes are shot by the ‘second unit’ (a smaller-sized crew, without the main director) and the waterfall could anyway have been enhanced with a computer, but Christopher Nolan likes to do it ‘old school’. 88
BritishTravelJournal.com
Pictured left: Michael Caine and Christian Bale in the bat cave, filming for The Dark Knight Rises. Pictured right: Wolf Hall's King Henry VIII (Damian Lewis) on horseback in Montacute's parkland; Handheld cameras gave the drama a documentary feel
MONTACUTE HOUSE
Montacute, Somerset A masterpiece of Elizabethan Renaissance architecture and design, with towering walls of glass, glowing ham stone and surrounding garden. Montacute House was built at the end of the sixteenth century for Sir Edward Phelips, lawyer and Speaker of the House of Commons. The Long Gallery is the longest surviving Elizabethan gallery in England at 52 metres (170 feet). Montacute House was the inspiration for Wolf Hall (2015), an award-winning six-part drama, and doubled for Tottington Hall, the setting of an annual giant vegetable competition in the Oscar-winning Wallace and Gromit film, The Curse of the Were Rabbit (2005). Top tip: Visit the important collection of sixteenth and early seventeenth-century portraits from the National Portrait Gallery displayed on the middle floor. Ă
BritishTravelJournal.com
89
STOURHEAD
Near Mere, Wiltshire The world-famous landscape garden at Stourhead has been delighting visitors for over 250 years. At its centre is a magnificent lake surrounded by classical temples, mystical grottoes and rare and exotic trees. In Pride and Prejudice (2005) a rain-soaked Darcy makes his first, unsuccessful proposal to a rain-soaked Lizzie at Stourhead’s Temple of Apollo. Set high above the lake, the dramatic setting and beauty of the Temple proved perfect for this intense and romantic scene. So perfect in fact that the film’s director Joe Wright didn’t need Adam Richards, the film’s location manager, to go and look for a setting for this scene as Joe had always imagined it taking place here. Adam explained why the Temple was the director’s first and only choice: ‘Joe loved the idea of this emotional scene being played out while sheltering from the elements. The Temple, with its elevated position over the gardens below, was the ideal backdrop.’ Visit to explore the 1,072 hectare (2,650 acre) Stourhead estate where chalk downs, ancient woods and farmland are managed for wildlife. Top tip: Uncover the fascinating history of Stourhead House with an Italian ‘Grand Tour’ adventure and enjoy the unique Regency library, Chippendale furniture and inspirational paintings. The Palladian house is set amid ‘picnic perfect’ lawns and extensive parkland.
90
BritishTravelJournal.com
Pictured left and above: The world-famous landscape garden at Stourhead; Keira Knightley as Lizzie Bennet at the Temple of Apollo. Pictured below: Botallack's Wheal Crowns building. Pictured right: Luke Evans as Vlad in Dracula Untold; The world-famous basalt columns of Giant's Causeway; Matt Smith as Doctor Who at Dyrham Park.
BOTALLACK
On the Tin Coast, near St Just, Cornwall If there was a National Trust award for the most used location for one TV series, Botallack would be sure to win. The buildings here stood in for various Poldark family mines in all five series of the BBC’s hit adaptation of Winston Graham’s novels. The Wheal Crowns buildings (shown right), perched on jagged rocks right next to the sea, were used as Francis Poldark’s failing ‘Wheal Grambler’ in series one. Botallack is part of the Cornwall and West Devon Mining Landscape UNESCO World Heritage Site. The abandoned mines now serve as a reminder of the area’s once prosperous past when mines stretched out half a mile under the sea bed and produced thousands of tons of copper and tin every year.
DYRHAM PARK
Dyrham, Near Bath, South Gloucestershire Dyrham Park, a magnificent seventeenth-century Baroque mansion house, was used as the filming set for Doctor Who (Series 6, 2011). In the episode ‘Night Terrors’, the Doctor, played by Matt Smith, pops in on a scared eight-year-old boy who is frightened of his bedroom cupboard. His fear is travelling the universe. While the Doctor is discussing the case with the boy’s dad, his companions Amy and Rory get caught in a doll’s house occupied by life-size peg dolls. Dyrham was used as the interiors of the doll’s house, the checked floors and staircase helping to create the illusion. Trust furniture was removed and simpler, more worn or ‘played with’ prop furniture substituted. The house is heavily Dutch influenced, which was useful as peg dolls originated in the Netherlands. This episode was watched by seven million people in the UK alone! Top tip: The 270-acre (110 hectare) ancient parkland is full of magnificent trees and breathtaking views and space for young explorers to run free. Keep the children on track by ticking off challenges on the 50 things list picked up on entry. à
GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
44 Causeway Road, Bushmills, County Antrim The world-famous basalt columns are flanked by the wild North Atlantic ocean. Northern Ireland’s only World Heritage Site, formed sixty million years ago by volcanic eruptions. The iconic Causeway is one of the busiest visitor sites the National Trust has. Filming opportunities here are limited unless you bring a scaled down crew, as in Cold Feet (TV, 1997-), Your Highness (2011), Hellboy II: The Golden Army (2008) and Dracula Untold (2014). You can walk to the stones for free, but the National Trust car park is reserved for those buying tickets for the Visitor Experience, which includes a guided tour and use of the audio guides, available in 11 languages. Flanked by the wild North Atlantic Ocean and a landscape of dramatic cliffs, for centuries the Giant’s Causeway has inspired artists, stirred scientific debate and captured the imagination of all who see it. Top tip: Climb the Shepherd's Steps and hike along the clifftop trail to get a bird's eye view of the beautiful causeway coast. Or enjoy the road less travelled capturing the World Heritage Site on an active five-mile hike along the stunning cliff-top path with the guided Clifftop Experience.
BritishTravelJournal.com
91
01665 710700
V
I
L
L
A
G
coquetcottages.co.uk
E
On the edge of the beautiful English Lake District only 3 miles from Morecambe Bay.
Cartmel is ‘a thimble On the edge of thefull of jewels’, and can be easily found by road or rail. more information please go to beautifulFor English Lake District cartmelvillage.com and only 3 miles from Follow LA11 6QB for our central visitor car park Morecambe Bay, Cartmel can easily be found by road or Cartmel rail.
Discover Northumberland this Autumn and make lasting memories in the finest collection of award winning family-friendly & petfriendly holiday homes on the coast
4 Breathtaking views 4 Stunning coastal scenery 4 Safe family beaches 4 A haven for sailing and watersports
Follow LA11 6QB for our central visitor car park.
WELCOME TO THE ROSELAND PENINSULA
For full details of Cartmel’s charming array of eateries, shops and pubs, alongside suggestions of exceptional accommodation, please visit:
cartmelvillage.com
you will also find information on upcoming events AHere jewel in the crown of Cornwall and activities.
and a truly to take Designedremarkable by Ellie Heaven Designsplace www.ellieheaven.com your holiday Whether you choose a traditional holiday cottage as a rural retreat, a property in the heart of a village or a modern property for the height of luxury, one of our specially selected holiday properties will be the perfect start to a memorable holiday.
tel: 01326 270900
email: info@portscathoholidays.co.uk
www.por tscathoholidays.co.uk Portscatho Holidays, 3 The Quay, St Mawes, Truro, Cornwall, TR2 5DG
PACKWOOD HOUSE
WIMPOLE ESTATE
Arrington, Royston, Cambridgeshire Wimpole Hall is a large country house with wonderful Georgian interiors. The house, begun in 1640, is surrounded by 1,200 hectares (2,965 acres) of parkland including a working farm specialising in rare breeds. There are beautiful pleasure grounds, a walled garden and a folly. A large imposing estate is exactly what the director ordered for Easy Virtue (2008) starring Jessica Biel, and Colin Firth. Based on one of Noël Coward’s earlier and less-well-known plays, this is a British-made romantic comedy set in the thirties. The storyline is about a glamorous American widow, Larita, who marries a young Englishman, John Whittaker, on holiday. On their return to England, his mother, played by Kristin Scott Thomas in fine icy-snob form, takes a dislike to her daughterin-law. His father, however, takes a shine to her. Top tip: Visit the mansion at the heart of this estate. Intimate rooms contrast with beautiful and unexpected Georgian interiors, including Soane's breathtaking Yellow Drawing Room and wonderful plunge bath. The fascinating basement corridor offers a glimpse into life below stairs. Stroll around the colourful parterre garden and wander through the Pleasure Grounds to the Walled Garden, abundant with fruit, vegetables and beautiful herbaceous borders. Stride out across the landscape park, among the rare-breed cattle, through grand avenues, before entering shaded woodland and emeging into an arable landscape.
Packwood Lane, Lapworth, Warwickshire ‘Richard II’ was the first episode in The Hollow Crown, a seven-part series of Shakespeare’s history plays that transmitted in 2012 and 2016 filmed at this sixteenth-century manor house. The series was part of the 2012 Cultural Olympiad, a programme of cultural events that accompanied the London Olympic and Paralympic Games. The cast was stellar, the opening scene alone featuring Patrick Stewart. Visit the much-restored Tudor house, park and gardens and see the culmination by Graham Baron Ash: salvaged objects and exotic pieces come together in a Jacobean meets Edwardian style. Beautiful, homely, warm and welcoming. A house to dream of, a garden to dream in. u
Pictured left: Larita (Jessica Biel) at the Gothic
Tower set in the Wimpole Estate. Pictured above: Ben Whishaw as Richard II in The Hollow Crown.
BritishTravelJournal.com
93
Review Stay
VIEW OF THE SEA Multi-award winning Landal Gwel an Mor resort offers the ultimate in luxury coastal breaks, providing five star lodges in a spectacular Cornish location Words | Jessica Way
T
HE DEMAND FOR self-catering luxury holidays has risen as we go in search of extraordinary staycations to make our first trip post-lockdown extra special. In a time when it is important to keep a safe distance from others finding somewhere which is still relatively undiscovered can make all the difference to the enjoyment of our time away. Luxury British resorts in picture-postcard destinations, offering stylish self-catering lodges, with activities, restaurants, wellbeing spas and in-lodge room services seem like a far more relaxing and hassle-free option than travelling overseas right now. Located on the spectacular North Coast of Cornwall, within easy walking distance of Portreath Beach, 5-star Gwel an Mor has raised the bar in this sector, offering home-from-home, socially distant holiday experiences. And I am guessing for most, if not all of our readers, this might even be the first time you have even heard of Gwel an Mor? You might well have seen it on screen though. Set in a historic area of beauty, the resort was recently chosen by the principal cast of Poldark à
94
BritishTravelJournal.com
as their Cornish home during filming, thanks to its exceptional location. Gwel an Mor is privately owned by Cornish businessman Bill Haslam. In 2018 Bill formed a partnership with Landal GreenParks, adopted their name, branding and values. Landal GreenParks originated in Holland in 1954 and now offers 85 locations across nine European countries including the Netherlands, Germany, Denmark and Austria. In the UK they have five other locations: Kielder in Northumberland; Ashbourne in the Peak District; Dundee in the Southern Highlands; Matlock in the Peak District; and newest arrival, Landal Kenwick Woods, Louth in the Lincolnshire Wolds. At Gwel an Mor you have the luxury of your own secluded private lodge, state-of-the-art kitchenlounge area with stylish log burner and the convenience of the resort's other facilities, including an indoor swimming pool and 'The Terrace' restaurant and bar, on your doorstep. You’re surrounded by sensational views of the coast, and there’s a dedicated concierge team on hand to arrange anything from deep sea fishing, cycling, kite surfing, coasteering, kayaking to surfing. The resort is set high on a hill overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, with the luxury holiday lodges set
96
BritishTravelJournal.com
comfortably apart, in landscaped gardens uniquely designed to blend into the area of beautiful countryside. As you would expect there is a range of accommodation options, from contemporary Residences, Lakeside retreats to classic wooden style lodges furnished with everything you need. The private patio in each retreat offers space for dining and relaxing or simply enjoying the surrounding countryside, seaviews or stargazing from the comfort of the private hot-tub. Combining the best of a luxury hotel with the comforts of home, all guests can enjoy full access to the resort facilities - and for those that cost extra, prices are reasonable. The Famous Nine golf course, for example, the only one of its kind, is just £13 a round (£10 on Fridays) - and guaranteed to offer an afternoon of fun, regardless of your level of ability. On this 9 hole, Par 3 course you can 'play' holes that pay homage to some of the most famous holes in golfing moments, from ‘The Golden Bell’ at Augusta to the infamous 17th at St Andrews with its intimidating ‘Road Hole Bunker’, the 17th at Sawgrass, and the nerve-wracking ‘Postage Stamp’ from Royal Troon. If a peaceful fishing experience is more to your taste then the resort’s two-acre coarse fishing lake, Clover Lake is stocked with carp and tench. Alternatively you can find a more active programme of
challenging and fun sessions for all ages including archery, body zorbs, sea scooters and snorkelling. It is easy to see why Gwel an Mor was named Best Holiday Village in the Visit England Awards 2018 - there’s even an on-site wildlife and conservation centre, Feadon Farm - said to be something no other holiday resort in the country offers. As well as conservation work, this not-for-profit project means guests can be involved with the resort's wild side, from learning the art of falconry flying the resident Harris Hawk and Barn Owl, stroking resident reindeers, Nadelik and Lowen, to hand-feeding the foxes. They also offer an amazing night time walk using thermal imaging to learn about animals out and about in the dark. At the time of printing, BaseCamp was temporarily closed to help stop the spread of coronavirus, but with the hope to reopen safely soon. This centre features a range of indoor Clip’n’Climb walls along with soft play and a Costa café. Close by, the clubhouse features a fully equipped gym, indoor pool, Jacuzzi, steam room and sauna with a children’s play area, tennis courts, putting and croquet positioned in the resort’s grounds. For more grown-up indulgences, The Wellbeing Spa presents an extensive
menu of pampering facial, body and cosmetic treatments designed to relax, revitalise and rejuvenate using marineinspired products. For lovers of the great outdoors, as well as the organised nature events, there are many detailed walks for visitors to explore and with Portreath being situated on the famous South West Coast Path, there are 630 miles of superb coastal walks to discover. For cyclists, horseriders and walkers, the Mineral Tramways Heritage trail is a perfect and traffic free way to explore the countryside. Easily accessed from the resort, the restored 19th Century tramway route is now a 60KM network of multi-activity trails allowing guests to explore Cornwall’s rich mining heritage, with some superb views of the Atlantic coast along the way. Landal Gwel an Mor is also the perfect base to explore the further delights of Cornwall, with the county’s main arterial route just a short distance from the resort most attractions are easy to reach. Having gained a great reputation amongst visitors and locals, The Terrace Restaurant is an informal bistro-style venue with a locally sourced menu. With an emphasis on using the best seasonal ingredients the south west has to offer, The Terrace produces an ever-changing menu and the restaurant even offers a takeaway service so food can be ordered and enjoyed in the comfort of your lodge. Boasting the country’s warmest climate and surrounded by the stunning scenery of both shoreline and countryside in one of the UK’s best holiday destinations, you would be hard-pressed to find a more special place to stay than Landal Gwel an Mor luxury resort at Portreath. u Prices from £599 for a Residence 3 bedroom lodge for a short break which is either a 3 night weekend stay (Friday to Monday) or a 4 night midweek (Monday to Friday). gwelanmor.com
BritishTravelJournal.com
97
BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL CROSSWORD 06
ACROSS
DOWN
9 Uncharged particle (7) 10 Insulting (7) 11 People installed in office (9) 12 Body of principles (5) 13 Running fast (2,1,6) 15 The --- Oak, Robin Hood's legendary Sherwood Forest refuge (5) 16 Castle protects her badly (11) 20 Basket material (5) 22 The largest county (9) 24 Perfectly clear (5) 25 Covered with small stones (9) 26 Caucasian rug type also called Soumak (7) 27 Big eater (7)
1 Keen to fight fighting (4-3) 2 In the UK, terrain found only in the Cairngorms (6) 3 Chair with sidepieces (8) 4 The Black Comyn's castle near Fort William (10) 5 Classic late Spring horserace at Epsom (4) 6 The V&A is one (6) 7 Nocturnal bird, alias the fern owl (8) 8 Electronic opener (7) 14 Fixed ahead of time (10) 16 Anne, Diana or Margaret, perhaps (8) 17 Flipped a coin (6,2) 18 Championship Wirral golf course (7) 19 Ahead (7) 21 Radar aerial covering (6) 23 Small sea-girt spots, like Rockall (6) 25 Kensington ---, thoroughfare to the Royal Albert Hall (4)
Answers will be printed in the Autumn Issue out 4 October The first correct crossword received will be rewarded with a free gift from The Travelling Reader. Simply send your completed crossword (or the answers) with your choice of The Original, The London, or Simply British Tastes box, (thetravellingreader.com) and your postal address, by post to British Travel Journal, Mitchell House, Brook Avenue, Warsash, Southampton, Hampshire, SO31 9HP, or email the answers to crossword@britishtraveljournal.com
ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 05 | SPRING 2020 ACROSS: 1 Acetone 5 Embrace 9 Slower 10 Dunvegan 11 Decipher 12 Icicle 13 Takes a seat 15 Gush 16 Talc 19 Tetrahedra 22 Hot rod 24 Orangish 25 Divorcèe 26 Dances 27 Penrhyn 28 Anneals DOWN: 2 Calleva 3 Thwaite 4 North-east 6 Menai 7 Reeking 8 Charles 10 Derwentcote 14 Tea garden 17 Agonize 18 Corrour 20 Eugenie 21 Russell 23 Duchy.
F O R YO U R J O U R N E Y Books, apps, travel gadgets and crossword
WE LOVE
COA STAL COM PAN IO N
This book will guide you to 80 of the most interesting, fun and picturesque seaside spots our coast has to offer, providing insights into the history, culture and key features of each place, where to eat - including the best places for fish and chips, and where to stay. ÂŁ11.99. amazon.co.uk 98
BritishTravelJournal.com
LIFE O N T HE WAT ER
CO N S C I O U S MI N D
Getting out on the water is a great way to Synctuition, a mindfulness app, is avoid crowds and stay safe while enjoying offering their mindfulness and relaxation the mental health benefits of being outapp for FREE to everyone in the doors. With this app you can find and book country until the end of July 2020 due boat rentals, paddle boats, kayaks locally to the affect the COVID-19 outbreak to you - all in just a few clicks! has had on mental health in the UK. getmyboat.com synctuition.com
MAT T ER HO R N M E TA L L I C Keep stylishly hydrated on the move with this Chardonnay gold stainless-steel bottle, new from from on-the-go drinkware brand Contigo. Double-wall vacuum insulated technology ensures drinks stay cold for up to 24 hours or hot for up to 10. ÂŁ19.95. amazon.co.uk
D E S I G N E D & M A D E I N O R K N E Y, S C O T L A N D
NEW
Bumblebee COLLECTION
Inspired by summer days in Sheila’s garden, when flowers are in bloom and bumblebees are a familiar sound. Silver jewellery with vibrant enamel, made for you in our Orkney workshop. Each purchase* comes with a free wildflower seed mix, to help grow bee-friendly gardens. *Only available for UK order s.
MADE IN THE UK ORKNEY | EDINBURGH | GLASGOW 01856 861 203 | sheilafleet.com
