`
JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2020
HIGHLIGHTS
87
76
LIFE IMITATING ART
Ways to wear bold colour this new year
WOMEN WE LOVE
Celebrating the champions of change
108
Giuseppe Zanotti shoes, `96,000 (approx).
Recounting the achievements of five heroic South Asian women abroad
Cover Look Kriti Sanon wears top, jacket, and pants, Coach. Watch, Tissot. Creative director: Yurreipem Arthur. Fashion director: Edward Lalrempuia. Photographer: Alan Gelati. Hair and makeup: Bianca Hartkopf at Nina Klein Management. Artist’s reputation management company: Raindrop Media. Fashion editor: Smridhi Sibal. Location: Courtesy Bürgenstock Resort, Switzerland.
14
IMAGE: COURTESY DON PENNY/STUDIO D
MAKING HISTORY
JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2020
FASHION THE GREAT WHITE 130
Photographs by Kay Sukumar
PARIS MON AMOUR
142
Photographs by Andrea Varani
FEATURES 50
BREAKING BARRIERS
54
Text by Phyllida Jay
Emporio Armani bag, `42,000 (approx).
16
IMAGE: COURTESY PIXELATE
THE ARCHIVIST
JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2020
BAZAAR STYLE 35 10 Things We Love BAZAAR ACCESSORIES 55 Toy Story Photographs by Don Penny
BAZAAR BEAUTY
60 A Royal Affair 64 Natural Interests
82 Eat For Your Age
65 Fringe Benefits 66 The Magician
84 A Portrait of Success
67 Wait List
BAZAAR HOT LIST 112 The Way Forward BAZAAR ESCAPE 156 A Fresh Start
IN EVERY ISSUE 22 Contributors 26 Editor’s Letter 160 Where To Buy 162 How Bazaar
Graff brooch, price upon request.
18
IMAGE: COURTESY THE BRAND
BAZAAR FLASH 158 Paint The Town Red
DEPUTY EDITOR
ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR
ESHA MAHAJAN
NIKHIL KAUSHIK
FASHION FEATURES EDITOR
SENIOR DESIGNER
BUTOOL JAMAL
WUNGRAMVAO SHIMRAY
ACCESSORIES EDITOR
AROON PURIE
DESIGNER
SITARA MULCHANDANI
GROUP EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
VINAY KUMAR JHA
BEAUTY EDITOR
RAJ CHENGAPPA
KELSEY KISSANE
PUBLISHER
ASSISTANT EDITOR
KAREN WILSON KUMAR
PRODUCTION MANAGER
PARUL MENEZES
RADHIKA BHALLA
EDITORIAL COORDINATOR
ASSISTANT BEAUTY EDITOR
NISHTHA BHATIA
PRABLEEN GUJRAL
CONSULTING EDITOR (COPY)
FEATURES WRITER
CHINMAYEE MANJUNATH
SWAREENA GURUNG FASHION EDITOR
SMRIDHI SIBAL SENIOR FASHION STYLIST
MOUMITA SARKAR
EDITOR
NONITA KALRA
CONSULTING EDITOR
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
RAVNEET KAUR SETHI
YURREIPEM ARTHUR
VIDEO EDITOR
FASHION DIRECTOR
TENZIN TSUNDUE PHUNKANG
EDWARD LALREMPUIA
FASHION STYLIST
PARVATI MANGAL
PRODUCTION CHIEF PRODUCTION
FASHION ASSISTANT
GAJENDRA BHATT
JUHI TANEJA SHRUTI JOSHI
ASSISTANT MANAGER
NARENDRA SINGH
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS AKHILA RANGANNA, ARUNDHATI DE-SHETH, DIVRINA DHINGRA, DIVYA BALA, LISA RAY, MOHAN NEELAKANTAN, NATASHA KHURANA, PHYLLIDA JAY, PRAYAG MENON, SHRUTI RYA GANGULY, TANVI DAGLI MODI CONTRIBUTORS ABHEET GIDWANI, ABHILASHA KHAITAN, AHSUN ZAFAR, AKHIL SINGH, ALAN GELATI, ALISON S. COHN, AMANDA ALAGEM, ANDREA VARANI, ANDREW DAY, ASTRID VOS, BIANCA HARTKOPF, DON PENNY, ELSA DURRENS, GABRIELA LANGONE, HARPREET KAUR LAMBA, KAY SUKUMAR, KEITH CHAN, KITTE KWONG, MITESH RAJANI. CREATIVE Art Director SIDDHARTH KAPIL IMPACT TEAM National Sales Head KAMALINEE CHATTERJEE Branch Head (East) GURJEET WALIA General Manager (West) CLIVE SANTA MARIA, SUMAN SHARMA Senior Manager (North) RAJEEV DUBEY Manager (North) AKASH MEHRA MARKETING Senior Managers AKSHAT UPADHYAY, HIMANSHU DUBEY, YUSUF TANVIR Marketing Executive MUSKAAN MALHOTRA NEWSSTAND SALES Chief General Manager D.V.S. RAMA RAO Senior General Manager (National Sales) DEEPAK BHATT General Manager (Operations) VIPIN BAGGA Deputy General Manager (North) RAJEEV GANDHI Regional Sales Manager (West) SYED ASIF SALEEM Deputy Regional Sales Manager (South) S PARAMASIVAM Senior Sales Manager (East) PIYUSH RANJAN DAS CONSUMER MARKETING SERVICES Deputy General Manager (Operations) G. L. RAVIK KUMAR HEARST MAGAZINES INTERNATIONAL SVP General Manager & Managing Director Asia & Russia SIMON HORNE SVP/Editorial & Brand Director KIM ST. CLAIR BODDEN Executive Editor ELÉONORE MARCHAND
VOLUME 7 NUMBER 11
PUBLISHED AND DISTRIBUTED BY LIVING MEDIA INDIA LTD., BY PERMISSION OF HEARST COMMUNICATIONS, NEW YORK, NEW YORK, UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. EDITORIAL OFFICE: LIVING MEDIA INDIA LTD., INDIA TODAY MEDIAPLEX, FC-8, SECTOR-16A, FILM CITY, GAUTAM BUDH NAGAR, NOIDA-201 301, UTTAR PRADESH; PHONES: (120) 4807 100; NEW DELHI • FOR SUBSCRIPTION ASSISTANCE CONTACT: CUSTOMER CARE INDIA TODAY GROUP, C-9 SECTOR 10, NOIDA 201301. CALL: (95120) 2479900 FROM DELHI & FARIDABAD; (0120) 2479900 FROM REST OF INDIA. HYDERABAD, PUNE, NAGPUR & BHOPAL: 9622-111144, FAX: 0120-24078080; E-MAIL: wecare@intoday.com • IMPACT OFFICES: 1201, 12TH FLOOR, TOWER 2A, INDIABULLS CENTRE (JUPITER MILLS)SB MARG, LOWER PAREL (WEST) MUMBAI-400013. • INDIA TODAY MEDIAPLEX , FC-8, SECTOR- 16A, FILM CITY, NOIDA – 201301 • 98-A, DR RADHAKRISHNAN SALAI, 2ND FLOOR, MYLAPORE, CHENNAI 600 004; PHONES: 28478526-41; TELEX: 041-6177 INTO IN; FAX: 28472178; CABLE: LIVMEDIA, CHENNAI • 201-204, RICHMOND TOWERS, 2ND FLOOR, 12 RICHMOND ROAD, BENGALURU, 560 025; PHONES: 2221 2448; 22213037; TELEX: 0845-2217 INTO IN; FAX: 080-2221 8335; CABLE: LIVING MEDIA BENGALURU. • 52, J.L. NEHRU ROAD, 4TH FLOOR, KOLKATA 700 071; PHONES: 2282 5398, 2282 7726, 2282 1922; FAX: 033-2282 7254, CABLE: LIVING MEDIA. KOLKATA • 6-3-885/7/B, SOMAJIGUDA,
20
HYDERABAD, 500 082; PHONES: 331 1657, 339 0479; TELEX: 0425-2085 THOM IN. FAX: 040339 0484. • 39/1045, 1ST FLOOR, KARAKKAT ROAD, COCHIN 682 016; PHONE: 0484-2377057, 2377058; FAX: 0484-2377059 • 2C, “SURYA RATH BLDG” 2ND FLOOR, BEHIND WHITE HOUSE, PANCHVATI, OFF. C.G. ROAD, AHMEDABAD-380 006; PHONES: 656 0393, 656 0929; FAX: 656 5293. • COPYRIGHT 1996, LIVING MEDIA INDIA LTD., ALL RIGHTS RESERVED THROUGHOUT THE WORLD. REPRODUCTION IN ANY MANNER IS PROHIBITED. • PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY KAREN WILSON KUMAR ON BEHALF OF LIVING MEDIA INDIA LIMITED. PRINTED AT THOMSON PRESS, INDIA LIMITED, 18-35 MILE STONE, DELHI MATHURA ROAD, FARIDABAD-121007, (HARYANA). PUBLISHED AT K-9, CONNAUGHT CIRCUS, NEW DELHI-110 001. CORPORATE OFFICE: FC 8, SECTOR 16/A, FILM CITY, NOIDA (UP) - 201301 EDITOR: NONITA KALRA. HARPER’S BAZAAR DOES NOT TAKE THE RESPONSIBILITY FOR RETURNING UNSOLICITED PUBLICATION MATERIAL. • ALL DISPUTES ARE SUBJECT TO THE EXCLUSIVE JURISDICTION OF COMPETENT COURTS AND FORUMS IN DELHI/NEW DELHI ONLY. • REGISTERED OFFICE: 9, K BLOCK, CONNAUGHT CIRCUS, NEW DELHI 110 001. COPYRIGHT LIVING MEDIA INDIA LTD. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED THROUGHOUT THE WORLD. REPRODUCTION IN ANY MANNER IS PROHIBITED
IMAGE: COURTESY THE BRAND
INTERNATIONAL EDITORS-IN-CHIEF Arabia Argentina LUCY LARA Australia EUGENIE KELLY Brazil PATRICIA CARTA Chile China SIMONA SHA Czech Republic NORA GRUNDOVA Germany KERSTIN SCHNEIDER Greece ELENI PATERAKI Hong Kong XAVEN MAK Indonesia RIA LIRUNGAN Japan KAORI TSUKAMOTO Kazakhstan LARISSA AZANOVA Korea SEKYUNG CHO Latin America LUCY LARA Malaysia NATASHA KRAAL Netherlands MILUSKA VAN ‘T LAM Poland ANNA ZALESKA Romania ANDREI IOVU Russia DARIA VELEDEEVA Singapore KENNETH GOH Serbia PETAR JANOSEVIC Spain YOLANDA SACRISTÁN Taiwan ELAINE LIAO Thailand DUANG POSHYANONDA Turkey GULEN YELMEN UK JUSTINE PICARDIE Ukraine ANYA ZEMSKOVA Vietnam HUONG TRAN NGUYEN THIEN
Bazaar
CONTRIBUTORS 2
3 1
1. Harpreet Kaur Lamba is a renowned sports journalist who specialises in field hockey. She has covered major events such as the Olympic Games, Hockey World Cup, Asian Games, and Commonwealth Games. She is the former sports editor of The Asian Age. In this issue, she writes on the success of Indian female athletes in ‘The Game Changers’, pg 104. “It was a pleasure to write for Bazaar, as it is a magazine that is known equally for its style and substance.” 2. Mitesh Rajani is a hair and makeup artist based in Mumbai. Though a graduate in commerce, his passion for beauty and fashion led him away from the corporate world. He has since worked with the likes of Radhika Apte, Madhuri Dixit Nene, Kalki Koechlin, and Sobhita Dhulipala, along with many renowned brands and publications. In this issue, he works on our fashion shoot ‘The Great White’, pg 130. “It was fun doing this shoot. There was so much positivity on set, and the energy was great!” 3. Abhilasha Khaitan is an independent writer and editor. She began to freelance in 2018 after having
22
edited magazines and newspapers for over 15 years. The evolving role of women in society and at the workplace is a subject close to her heart, and has brought her exciting projects such as Bazaar India’s coffee-table book, The Power List: Women Who Write Their Own Rules. In this issue, she asserts the emergence of a new normal for female achievement in India in her essay ‘An Equal Music’, pg 102. “As always, Bazaar India chose a topic that resonates with the contemporary woman who refuses to accept tokenism.” 4. Bianca Hartkopf is a Munich-based hair and makeup artist who has worked in Germany, Dubai, India, South Africa, and Japan. For the past 16 years, she has worked on various editorial projects, fashion shows, Bollywood movies, and advertising campaigns for brands such as L’Oréal, Chanel, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, and Dove. In this issue, Hartkopf shows us her skills in our coverstory ‘On Top of the World’, pg 117. “It was a magical experience shooting in the snow in Switzerland and an absolute pleasure to work with Kriti.” ➤
IMAGES: COURTESY THE CONTRIBUTORS
4
Bazaar
CONTRIBUTORS 6
7
5
5. Alan Gelati is a fashion photographer from Milan. He moved to London in 1998 and began to work for Christie’s, photographing paintings, sculptures, antiquities, and interiors. After his stint at the auction house, he began his freelance career and has since worked with international fashion publications and famous brands. In this issue, he shoots our coverstory ‘On Top of the World’, pg 117. “Working in Switzerland was a magical experience, especially because it was just before Christmas. It marked a beautiful, snowy end to 2019!” 6. Elsa Durrens has been a makeup artist for 10 years. She represents Chanel cosmetics, and specialises in fashion shoots, collection launches, and product tutorials. In this issue, Durrens works her magic in ‘Paris, Mon Amour’ pg 142. “It was my first time working with Bazaar India, and I have used light and creamy textures to keep the model’s skin looking very fresh. Whole shooting outdoors, you always have to find the right products to be sure that your makeup lasts and is easy to touch up.” 7. Andrea Varani was born in Empoli, Florence, and began his photographic
24
career in 1982 when he was in his early twenties. Since then, he has collaborated with the world’s best fashion magazines, and brands including Algida, Audi, Bulgari, Campari, and American Express. Varani’s first love is fashion photography, and his work can be seen not only in Italy but also in Germany, Spain, Mexico, India, China, and Japan. In this issue, he shoots the fashion editorial ‘Paris, Mon Amour’, pg 142. “It is one of every fashion photographer’s dreams to shoot for a great brand like Chanel. Plus with a fantastic team like that of Bazaar India! We spent two pleasant days together; it was a bit cold, but Paris is always Paris!” 8. Kay Sukumar is a leading fashion and beauty photographer who predominantly works in Australia, India, London, and Paris. He has shot for numerous fashion magazines and brands such as ASOS, Debenhams, and Koovs. In this issue, Sukumar shoots our fashion editorial ‘The Great White’, pg 130. “The Heydar Aliyev Centre, designed by the late Zaha Hadid, was an absolute dream location to shoot in because of its unique structure and design.” ■
IMAGES: COURTESY THE CONTRIBUTORS
8
FROM
THE
EDITOR
“I hope the new year challenges us to look within ourselves and make us question whether we’re doing enough to make an equal world—for women, for the queer, the disabled, the minorities, for all the ones who are born without privilege.Are we watching and hearing enough stories for them, about them, and from them? And if not, then why not?” wrote Gazal Dhaliwal, scriptwriter, activist. For our annual Women We Love list, we asked 13 amazing women—Dutee Chand, Reena Kallat, Ruchika Sachdeva, among others—their wishes for 2020.The ask was universal:They want more.More empowerment.More representation.More authenticity. They aren’t willing to settle for less.And why should they? Today, the loudest voices are female.The bravest conscience is feminine. And the pronoun ‘she’ represents true strength.Women have fought long and hard to find their place in the sun and they aren’t willing to give an inch.What makes this change even more powerful is that it comes laced with hope and optimism. The first issue of the new decade is buoyed with anticipation. It is a blueprint for progress, a manifesto for happiness.Which is why our big fashion resolution is to bring more colour to our lives. From borrowing from a box of crayons for the year’s makeup palette to wearing red on red, Bazaar resolves to make choices that are bold and bright. The time is right. The future belongs to us.And we are taking charge. ■
P E R S O N A L FAVO U R I T E S
(From left) Bag, `1,21,000 (approx), Louis Vuitton. Shoes, price upon request, Salvatore Ferragamo. Bracelet, `50,000 (approx), Chanel. Sunglasses, `28,000 (approx), Alexander McQueen.
LOVES
Bazaar
E B R A N C
T IMAGES: COURTESY THE BRANDS; LUCKY IF SHARP; PIXELATE.
es in
f wine
UB
so
ssori cce
de
CL
ha
e the new yea m o rw e lc it W romantic s , p e ha de
E
Chanel bag, price upon request. Aquazzura shoes, price upon request. Gucci bag, `2,87,000 (approx). Chloé sunglasses, `27,000 (approx). ➤
28
LOVES
Salvatore Ferragamo bag, `1,53,000 (approx). Dior ring, price upon request. Coach bracelet, `11,000 (approx). Manolo Blahnik shoes, `71,000 (approx). ➤
30
IMAGES: COURTESY THE BRANDS; PIXELATE.
T
MA
E
IT ME R
LO
K
Bazaar
LOVES
LI
Lalage Beaumont bag, `72,000 (approx). Lock & Co Hatters hat, `44,000 (approx). Bally sunglasses, `21,000 (approx). â–
32
IMAGES: COURTESY THE BRANDS; PIXELATE; LUCKY IF SHARP.
SS
BUR
U
ND Y B
G
Bazaar
STYLE
MODEL: VIKTORIA AT SYNERGY. HAIR: NICKY WONG. MAKEUP: ANGEL WONG. FASHION ASSISTANT: VICKY WAN.
10
THINGS W E L OV E Stay warm in this season’s smartest outerwear. Plus, the best trends from Resort 2020 and the designers celebrating a decade in fashion.
Shirt, tie, blazer, pants, coat, and shoes, Gucci. Art director and fashion stylist: Kitte Kwong. Photograph by Keith Chan.
Bazaar
STYLE
Powerful SUIT Layer with different types of plaid to give a modern twist to the retro pattern Coat, and earrings, Mulberry. Shirt, blazer, belt, and pants, Givenchy. Shoes, Burberry. Art director and fashion stylist: Kitte Kwong.
OVE R TH E T OP
From coloured coats to structured capes, the perfect winter cover-up is both functional and stylish Photographs by KEITH CHAN
28 36
top, ` 28,00 0 (app rox).
Chloé coat, `1,98,000 (approx).
Preen Line
Staud pants, `17,000 (approx).
Ad dp ol ish
EC K
M in
he rit ag
e
AT E
yo u tw r loo ee k ds wi an t h dt ak ar e y ta pi ns ec e
to
CH
Polo Ralph Lauren bag, `42,000 (approx).
x). ppro 0 (a 7,00 s, `5 dres nko a Zi ash Nat
IMAGES: COURTESY FARFETCH.COM; MATCHESFASHION.COM; NET-A-PORTER.COM.
Ruslan Baginskiy hat, `25,000 (approx).
Gucci dress, `2,31,000 (approx).
Mulberry bag, `4,84,000 (approx).
Burberry cape, `66,000 (approx).
Giuliva Heritage Collection shoes, `31,000 (approx).
37
e
). ox r pp (a
`
IMAGES: COURTESY FARFETCH.COM; MATCHESFASHION.COM; NET-A-PORTER.COM.
v ha
D UN O GR
e on al M
rs lie u So
0 00 , 5 `4 , s oe sh
,`
L
Max Mara skirt, `35,000 (approx).
A
an ec ad sh e tle rob ub r d ts a os r w e m ou th n y en t o e v p ac e— im ffe l to rfu t o we o am a p
38
`
e cr
Marc Cross bag, `1,44,000 (approx).
om Fr
TR U NE
Fendi pants, `46,000 (approx).
`
`1,78,00 0 (appr ox).
jacket , `93,0 00 (ap prox).
Valentin o coat,
Bazaar
STYLE
s, `41,000 (approx). Gianvito Rossi shoe
Cape CRUSADER The perfect tool to layer with, this versatile winter overlay can be worn over everything from trousers to a dramatic pleated skirt Cape, Celine. Shirt, bag, and shoes, Bottega Veneta. Skirt, Andersson Bell. Earrings, Burberry.
39
Bazaar
STYLE Hourglass HOUR Add definition to a look built around a statement coat by cinching the waist with a skinny leather belt Shirt, coat, and earrings, Burberry. Shorts and belt, Celine. See Where to Buy for details. Model: Viktoria at Synergy. Hair: Nicky Wong. Makeup: Angel Wong. Fashion assistant: Vicky Wan.
40
IMAGES: COURTESY FARFETCH.COM; MATCHESFASHION.COM; NET-A-PORTER.COM.
Aquazzura shoes, `87,000 (approx).
A
LD wi
th
CI TY
ol ou r jew to y el- our to w ne in d s ter ep w ar ard at r o es be
ER é lo h C 00 ,0 7 1 1, ,` g ba
A-W-A-K-E MODE skirt, `41,000 (approx).
Dundas pants, `60,000 (approx).
Ad dc
EM
x). (appro 0,500 er, `1,9 hy blaz Givenc
Dundas top, `1,14,000 (approx).
Mes De moisell es dres s, `33,0 00 (ap prox).
G `1 ann 3,0 i 00 hai (a rba pp nd ro , x) .
). ox r pp (a
Mansur Gavriel bag, `55,000 (approx).
Valentino gloves, `28,000 (approx).
41
Bazaar
STYLE
IC
TREND:
rox). app 0(
41 ,00
,` m
Ki
a
ni ge
Eu
, `2 E re s
0 0,00
Designs from Akhl ’s recent collection
Akh
il Nagpal
LABEL ALERT: AKHL Yarn made of industrial glass or recycled fishing net material, silk and raffia mesh woven to resemble chainmail—for Delhi-based Akhil Nagpal, innovation begins right from the textile. A 2017 graduate of Central Saint Martins, London, Nagpal worked with Peter Pilotto and Amit Aggarwal before launching AKHL in 2019. His debut line of sheath dresses are packed full of surface details—from the intricate hand embroideries to the new weaves and textile manipulations. ➤ 42
). rox p p (a
From
H
A
S
M
RO
T
p
). rox
`2
pprox).
ap
of Lafayette,
0 (a
Rag & Bone,
0 `19,
( 00
o
e us
x). lino, `27,000 (appro
00 2,
H
B orsa
Amit Aggarwal
STYLE
T H E
T R E N D
44
This season, designers looked to the heavens for inspiration. While they’ve always been fascinated by galaxies far, far away, recent events including India’s Chandrayaan-2 rover mission; the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 moon landing; Elon Musk and Amazon’s race to commercialise space travel, and even the release of a slew of new Star Wars films have definitively turned our attention upwards. Galactic glamour took the form of shiny bodysuits and iridescent, pleated layers at Amit Aggarwal as well as bias cut chain mail dresses at Paco Rabanne (one of the original proponents of space age fashion in the Seventies). Raf Simons of Louis Vuitton sent out colour-blocked sweaters that could be uniforms for the crew of Star Trek while the brand’s menswear line featured reflective metallic coats and vests that echoed the shine of heat-resistant space suits. And many designers referenced the more practical requirements of living in a hostile new environment. Cue the boiler suits at Gundi Studios, and the trousers and tunics with reflective panels, clip buckles, and detachable bags at unisex brand Space Biskit that debuted at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2019. For many, what was once a fantastical, distant plan can now seem like a very necessary alternative, an escape from our own dying planet. There was a distinctly dystopian flavour to Bloni by Akshat Bansal’s utilitarian bomber jackets and stretch latex dresses, while the proliferation of puffer jackets and quilted blankets in the market is just what you need for potential sub-zero temperatures. But even if you’re not moving to Mars, the results of these stylish explorations are welcome on home terrain and in our wardrobes. ■
IMAGES: COURTESY IMAXTREE; LAKME FASHION WEEK WINTER/FESTIVE 2019/ SHIVAJI JUVEKAR
Bloni
Bottega Veneta
Philipp Plein
SPACE AGE FA S H I O N
Balmain
Louis Vuitton
Bazaar
THE EXHIBITION: LITTLE SHILPA IN PARIS
Ten years since she started her label Little Shilpa, artist and milliner Shilpa Chavan is at a residency at the Cité internationale des arts in Paris. Her show Fleurs du Mal… Encore… is a continuation of her explorations on the works of French poet Charles Baudelaire. Since 2011, Chavan has already released three collections inspired by his book Les Fleurs du Mal. This exhibition features photographs, collages, film and sound extracts, as well as accessories inspired by his verse.
Glimpses of the artworks and the installations on display
What keeps bringing you back to Baudelaire?
There’s a dichotomy in his poems, this paradox of decay and beauty, death and life that I’m drawn to. Baudelaire put words to the aesthetic that I always had.
IMAGES: COURTESY THE BRANDS
How did you discover your love for millinery?
Two things—one was my fascination with Indian gods and the crowns they wore. Secondly, the black and white hat that Audrey Hepburn wore in the film My Fair Lady. These two images have always followed me. And the idea that you can wear something on your head and it just changes the way you hold yourself. You celebrate 10 years of your label this year. What are your plans moving ahead?
Events and pop ups will continue. I have clients who come back to me with orders and I will always create things that could be called fashion. The exhibition is on till May 2020
(Clockwise from bottom left) Bags by Nomada, `8500 and `9000, and brand creative head Sana Shakoor.
ACCESSORY ALERT: NOMADA Decorated with intricate images of tropical landscapes and night skies, toucans and bees, or even a dramatic evil eye, Nomada’s box bags and envelope clutches are sold around the world, from Miami to Jaipur. Founded in 2014 by Mumbai-based friends Sana Shakoor and Divya Batra Rashul, the label was inspired by their love of exploration. The results are perfect for travellers looking to uplift their holiday wardrobe. ➤ @nomada_accessories 45
Bazaar
STYLE
TIE ME UP Ribbons and bows were used in unexpected ways this season. Givenchy played with graphic black and white shapes while Chanel pinned an oversized silk bow to a traditional white shirt. Prabal Gurung showed us how to combine it with tailoring by adding a floppy, tie detail to a powder pink trouser suit. (From left) Looks from Erdem, Chanel, and Givenchy Resort 2020.
RUNWAY REPORT Our edit of the Resort 2020 season M I N I
M E
(Clockwise from top-left) Chanel, Off-White, and Balenciaga.
46
PHOTOS: COURTESY THE BRANDS.
This year’s obsession with miniscule purses seems to carry forward into 2020. The shrunken bags won’t fit more than your cards and cash but they do make for charming accessories, whether you prefer something like Chanel’s mini quilted pouches or Balenciaga’s skinny envelope clutch in a pristine white.
PRINT EXCESS From zebra stripes at Staud to the graffiti-like scribbles at Burberry, prints are having a moment. For cues on how to wear them, look to Coach where multiple patterns in the same tone were deftly layered together. Or opt for a single, all-over printed look like those at Fendi or Gucci for dramatic effect. (From left) Prints seen at Burberry, Dior, and Gucci.
(Clockwise from left) Boots as seen at Victoria Beckham and Co.
BEST BOOTS Worn under a skirt or dress, the knee-high boot instantly elevates any look. From Altuzarra’s polished snakeskin pattern to the sleek, leather and suede versions at Burberry and Alberta Ferretti, or Marni’s chunky, tractor-soled stomper, there’s a version for everyone. ➤
M E L L OW
YE L L OW
Deep mustard and turmeric tones are incredibly versatile. On outerwear, like the kaftans and coats at Dior and Bottega Veneta, it adds a warm, playful touch while a sun-coloured dress, like the ones at Johanna Ortiz or Oscar de la Renta will brighten up even the cloudiest day. (From top left) Yelllow hues at Johanna Ortiz, Off-White, and Versace. By Parth Rahatekar 47
Etro, `46,000 (approx).
IC
V
E R
M
TREND: O O R
SI
Practical yet stylish, you can count on these plus-sized carry-ons to fit everything you need on a busy day, including your makeup, laptop, and more. From laser cut patterns to fun prints, just remember the bigger the better.
D TOTES
el M `75, arant, 0 (app 00 rox) .
ZE
Isab
Ala
ïa
0 6,0 8 , 1 ,`
0
p (ap
). rox
Fe n
Looks as seen on the Fall 2019 runways
48
Zimmermann
Dundas
RUNWAY ACCESSORY: BROAD BELTS
The waist belt lends definition to your waist and breaks up a single-toned look. From Jean Paul Gaultier to JW Anderson, the unanimous decision is: The wider the better. Use it to add structure to your floral midi as at Zimmermann or wear a smart, cummerbund-style version with your workwear suit. Either way, it’s a cinch. ➤
IMAGES: COURTESY: FARFETCH.COM; MATCHESFASHION; NET-A-PORTER.COM; IMAXTREE.
,`
Jean Paul Gaultier
JW Anderson
di (a , `1 pp ,4 ro 4,0 x) . 00
Bazaar
STYLE
T H E
ARCHIVIST As péro celebrates 10 years, we speak to founder Aneeth Arora about building a brand archive By Butool Jamal The 10-year evolution of péro can be traced through a button. When she was still a student and planning her first collection for a Gen Next show at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2008, designer Aneeth Arora knew she wanted something very specific; it was a tiny, metal button she had seen on traditional kurtas from Sindh, Gujarat. Arora found a family of jewellery makers in her hometown of Udaipur and commissioned them to beat drops of molten brass and silver into the irregular bead-sized variety she had in mind. Since then, Arora has continued her exploration of the simple button, working with a range of materials and techniques. There are miniscule, hand-painted ceramic ladybirds which were part of her Spring 2018 collection, crochet flower buds from Fall 2018, the meenakari jewels from Winter 2015, and countlesss varieties of heart-shaped buttons. Her next Spring 2020 collection is even inspired by a glasswork technique called millefiori, Italian for ‘thousand flowers’, often used to make delicate, glass buttons that seem to be embedded with tiny blooms. A single péro collection can have as many as 10 different styles of buttons. But most importantly, Arora still works with the original craftspeople from Udaipur, and now provides the whole family with steady employment. “When you add someone to the chain, you have a responsibility to keep giving them work,” says Arora, as we chat in her brick and glass-walled studio in New Delhi. Péro, which means ‘to wear’ in Arora’s native Marwari, officially started in 2009 when she took a call to quit her day job at paper company Xylem Papercraft and dedicate herself to building her own label. With just one tailor she designed a collection of 12 wearable, 50
IMAGES: COURTESY THE BRAND
(Clockwise from left) Looks from the Summer 2019 collection; the first sample for a metal button; dolls from the archives
hand-sewn garments using light, handwoven textiles, natural dyes, and of course, those dainty, metal buttons. “I didn’t want to make clothes just for occasions, I want to make clothes that make you feel special. There might be no embroidery or embellishment on them but it’s the feeling of the fabric against your skin that does that,” says Arora when talking about the first line. Ten years on, péro has grown into a cult of its own, with loyal fans in writer Arundhati Roy, critic Anupama Chopra, artists Dayanita Singh and Mithu Sen, actor Sonam Kapoor Ahuja, and even singer Gwen Stefani, all of whom favour the brand’s comfortable, lived-in aesthetic and understated prettiness. While péro has grown, Arora has been careful to chronicle its history. Since 2009, her team has been dedicatedly preserving the various elements that make up a péro collection, from the textiles that are the building block of each season to the coveted press kits that go out on show day. “We have over 5,000 pieces, which include scarves and menswear, kidswear, womenswear; there’s a sample of anything that we have made,” says Arora. In the last two years she has taken things a step further by archiving and ordering everything so that it can become a resource for later collections. The péro archives are now housed in her two-storey Delhi workshop. There are bound booklets filled with buttons, as well as fabric swatches, pins, tassels, embroidery samples, selvedge borders… all the details that make up the péro vocabulary. “There’s so much visual material now. We can go back to what we have done and keep improving on it, building on it,” she says, as she turns the pages of a folder on which beaded flowers from her Spring 2015 Love on Foliage collection are neatly embroidered in rows onto a muslin base. The backbone of the archives are the textiles, beginning right from her first collection. There are cuttings of block prints from Rajasthan, bandhani from Bhuj, ikat from Andhra Pradesh, checks and jamdani from West Bengal, Chanderi from Maheshwar—multiple varieties of each ➤ 51
Bazaar
STYLE
(Clockwise from left) Looks from the Summer 2015 runway show; details from the Summer 2018 line; pĂŠro dolls on display; labels in the brand archives.
52
could be a part of one single season, evidence of Arora’s passion for textiles. “We have been making our own fabrics right from the beginning. We innovate from the level of the yarn itself, so while the textile might visually seem familiar, there’s been a lot of work that goes into refining “ T H E L A B E L I S D E F I N I T E LY everything. The ikat will feel lighter, we might mix silk and cotton because that’s just easier to A T E A M E F F O R T. I T ’ S N O T wear, or we’ll take a traditional gamcha pattern from Assam and make it in Maheshwar.” While JUST ME; THERE ARE A LOT the archive is a crucial source of inspiration for OF PEOPLE WHO ARE the brand, it also serves as a timely reminder of the infinite possibilities within Indian textiles. I N V O LV E D I N M A K I N G “Sometimes I’ll look at an older fabric and I’ll see how the quality is lost, even some of our own A S I N G L E G A R M E N T. A N D fabrics aren’t the same anymore,” she says ruefully. I BELIEVE IN THE Arora credits this obsession with documentation to her time studying at the National Institute UNIVERSE, I BELIEVE of Design [NID], Ahmedabad where in 2008 she completed her masters in textile design. IN FORCES BRINGING “We were taught to maintain a daily logbook— THINGS TOGETHER.” I would keep things like tickets or matchboxes, things that remind you of a space. I learned that all of these things can serve as inspiration. Now we keep an idea box in office. If I have something I give it to Saroj, who is our oldest employee, and she adds it to the box.” At NID, Arora said she also learned the importance of a collaborative approach. “It’s a multidisciplinary institute where you’re always exposed to what people from other fields are doing—graphic design, filmmaking, exhibition designers, and so on. We were taught that nothing is impossible. That if you can think of something you can make it, you just need the right resource.” This has driven Arora to shy away from being the sole face of the brand, preferring instead to keep the focus on the work and those who are often behind the scenes. “The label is definitely a team effort. It’s not just me; there are a lot of people who are involved in making a single garment. And I believe in the universe, I believe in forces bringing things together.” So a dive into the péro archives is an exploration of the work of many hands. Weavers from all across the country as well as a group of Afghani refugee women who specialise in crochet, basket-makers from Kullu, a ceramic artist from Noida. Even a chocolate brand that made a special lemon marmalade and poppy seedfilled bar for the Winter 2016 Pippi Longstocking-inspired collection. “This is a world where people who love what they do, are making things for people who love what they wear. It’s all about complexities and the pleasure we get out of creating something.” ■ 53
Bazaar
STYLE
Phyllida Jay
Can fashion have a role to play in the annihilation of caste? Columnist Phyllida Jay explores a project that’s doing just that. In Indian craft and fashion, the image reclaim the term as a way of of Gandhi has been brandished, asserting pride, dignity, and hope and, some would say, over-used amongst the community. Using to the point of meaninglessness. Chamar as a form of branding, and Less so, if at all, the image of linking it to high fashion design, is a Ambedkar. The great leader who bold and revolutionary step towards converted to Buddhism in order to this goal. escape the inherited burden of the Initially, Rajbhar worked with Hindu caste system, saw the most the leather workers to redirect marginalised in Indian society not as meek their deft leather-tooling skills “children of god” but as a force for Dalits, towards making bags from a term embraced by the oppressed old rubber tires, thus also themselves in the 1930s. tapping into the growing It’s this ethos of reclaiming and attention to upcycling reassertion that has driven Bengaluru-based the idea of the circular artist Sudheer Rajbhar. Just over two economy. His latest project is years ago, Rajbhar founded Chamar called The Reclaimed Tote, an Studio with the goal of employing ingenious play on the double meaning of highly-skilled leather workers reclaimed as both an identity and the from the Dalit community who materiality of craft. Rajbhar launched the had lost their sources of Chamar Foundation for Art and artist Farah livelihood during the ruling Siddiqui curated contributions by over 60 government’s beef ban. He works designers from India and abroad. Their with artisans in areas like Dharavi brief, to use only discarded scraps and and Santacruz East, Mumbai. People materials from their studios to like Sachin Bhimsakhare, whose design the totes. The result is a makeshift cobbler shop is situated on a diverse range of ebullient and crowded urban footpath. beautiful canvases upon Chamar is the name ascribed to which the Chamar artisans leather workers within the Dalit and designers have collaborated. group and is often used by the upper The intricate embroideries made castes in a derogatory way. from waste materials are both a Rajbhar’s aim is to proactively metaphor, and a call to arms. ■ 54
ACCESSORIES Edited by SITARA MULCHANDANI
P L AY F U L M I N D S The inspirations behind some of the season’s most coveted pieces. Plus, an exclusive interview with Cartier’s Pierre Rainero. Photographs by DON PENNY
Bracelet, price upon request, Cartier High Jewelry. Fashion editor: Amanda Alagem.
55
ACCESSORIES
Bazaar
56
T OY
S T O R Y
Snag these dazzling statement jewels before they fall into the wrong (tiny) hands Photographs by DON PENNY
THIS PAGE: A Very, Very Tiffany Holiday cocktail rings, Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. OPPOSITE PAGE: Necklace and rings, Bulgari. All prices upon request. Fashion editor: Amanda Alagem.
57
Necklace, price upon request, Van Cleef & Arpels. See Where to Buy for details. Fashion stylist: Miako Katoh.
58
SONIC THE HEDGEHOG, KNUCKLES THE ECHIDNA, AND SHADOW THE HEDGEHOG: COURTESY OF SEGA AMERICA, INC. OR ITS AFFILIATES. © SEGA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
Bazaarr
ACCESSORIES
A ROUGE AFFAIR
IMAGES: COURTESY THE BRAND
Zoya’s new collection offers a new take on a classic aesthetic Jewellery houses often look to the past for inspiration, so it’s no surprise that Zoya from the House of Tata is back this year with yet another fusion collection, Rouge. Inspired by baroque art—which creates spectacular illusions by replacing straight lines with flowing curves—the new Rouge collection is detailed and delicate.The ornate jewellery incorporates fluid motifs in gold with embedded diamonds.Take, for example, the Crescent Rose earrings from the range—a stunning pair of intricately-carved motifs in gold, etched with polki diamonds and cream pearls accentuating an elegant shape. “As a brand, Zoya has always been known for its artistic collections that inspire conversation with pieces that are rare and memorable. Meticulously crafted in a unique colour and texture of gold,Rouge uses both cut and uncut diamonds with precious stones to present a radically new design aesthetic for fine jewellery,” says Amanpreet Ahluwalia, brand head, of the decision to explore the challenging aesthetic.Then there is the Charm of the Dusk choker:The gossamer mesh chain choker is centred with handmade motifs in yellow gold, polkis, and diamonds. Dramatic and intr icate, this (Clockwise from top right) 22-piece collection is Earrings, necklace, ring, and earrings from Zoya’s truly timeless. ■ Rouge collection, all prices Rouge by Zoya is now upon request; a sketch of one available in Mumbai of the necklaces. and Delhi
By Sanya Mahajan SEE WHERE TO BUY FOR DETAILS
ACCESSORIES
From India’s colourful stones to its delicately carved gems—how the country continues to inspire Cartier’s most imaginative designs 60
IMAGES: COURTESY VINCENT WULVERYCK © CARTIER AND MARIAN GÉRARD, CARTIER COLLECTION © CARTIER
Bazaar
F
or over a century Cartier has been creating India-inspired jewellery. It all began in 1911, when Jacques Cartier, grandson of Louis-FranÇois Cartier, the French watchmaker who established the Cartier business in 1847, set sail for the subcontinent in search of the finest gems. There, he encountered fluted beads, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds carved into leaves, flowers, and berries —all typical of the Indian jewellery tradition. These inspired him to create never-before-seen colour combinations: Red, green, and blue. Bracelets, wristwatches, and necklaces adorned with gemstones carved into berries, branches, and flowers and then mounted on platinum and set with diamonds were first referred to as Foliage, then Hindu, and, finally, Tutti Frutti. This adaptation of the traditional codes of Indian jewellery has become symbolic of Cartier style. Today, the storied house has reinterpreted the iconic style into the Maharajah necklace. A versatile masterpiece that can be worn in eight different ways, it comprises a voluminous tassel of 19 gemstones, including two Colombian emeralds totalling 86.96 carats and a central stone of 43.73 carats. These are joined by an 18.58-carat hexagonal engraved Zambian emerald, a 23.24-carat engraved Burmese ruby, and eight Burmese ruby cabochons totalling 46.34 carats. Here, Bazaar speaks to Pierre Rainero, image and heritage director of Cartier, on the making of the necklace and why India continues to play such an important role in the brand’s identity.
(Opposite page) Rajasthan necklace, 2016. (This page) Brooch, 1930, sold to Queen Mary, wife of King George V of the United Kingdom.
Harper’s Bazaar:
What inspired you to create the Maharajah necklace, and why in the Tutti Frutti style? Pierre Rainero: First of all, this creation is one of a kind. The name is a tribute to the origin of inspiration of the Tutti Frutti, and alludes to the fact that the abundance of stones make it a royal piece of jewellery. HB: What role does India play in the inspiration of the Maharajah necklace? PR: The main element of inspiration from India is to mix rubies and emeralds. Our addition to this at Cartier is to add in sapphires. HB: Tell us about the house’s signature style, and how it influences modern designs. PR: The first Tutti Frutti pieces date back to 1925 and play a very strong role in the brand’s history of style, particularly our use of light and colours. When we use carved stones, they don’t play with light like traditional faceted stones, so we have to add diamonds. This is part of Cartier’s principle—jewellery has to play with light as much as possible. Then the association of colours. This has been key to our aesthetic from the beginning: Blue and green was inspired from Islamic tiles, for instance, and was rarely done so before us. Our use of black, white, and green dates back to the early ’20s. And, of course, the combination of red, green, and black taken from the Chinese. I think the style of combining bright colours all together is very modern, and so still appeals to contemporary tastes. ➤ 61
IMAGES: COURTESY: © CECIL BEATON, BY KIND PERMISSION OF SOTHEBY’S LONDON; VINCENT DE LA FAILLE © CARTIER; CARTIER ARCHIVES © CARTIER, AND VINCENT WULVERYCK © CARTIER
Bazaar
ACCESSORIES
62
(Clockwise from far left) Jacques Cartier (second from left) on board a boat in India, 1922; earrings to match the Maharajah necklace; ring created to match the Rajasthan necklace; the tassel of gemstones from the Maharajah necklace detached and worn as a pendant; and Jacques Cartier at a train platform in India, 1911.
HB:
What elements of the Tutti Frutti aesthetic are you particularly drawn to? PR: Both the colours and the carved stones. And the idea of profusion and abundance that goes with the name Tutti Frutti. It’s something that makes the piece of jewellery look like a sweet. There is a different kind of emotion linked to it, to the vision of such a piece of jewellery. HB: The Maharajah necklace is such a dynamic piece. Can you explain to us the many ways in which it can be worn? PR: It can be worn in at least eight different ways. To begin with, you can separate it into two necklaces. Then you can also detach the main motifs in the front and wear them on the smaller pieces, so you can personalise the necklace. You can also wear the central motif on a different necklace all together. HB: Over the years, how has Cartier been inspired by India? PR: There are many ways. Carved stones is one way, for instance. We also take inspiration from the colours found in saris. Another element that is very Indian in Cartier’s pieces is the use of yellow gold, especially in pieces that mix rubies and pearls. HB: What do you predict will be the biggest jewellery trends for 2020? PR: It’s very difficult to predict anything. In fact, we have to realise that the pieces we will be showing in 2020 were conceived almost two years ago. From Cartier you will not only see a mixing of colours, but also new kinds of forms and shapes. We are pushing the traditional bounds between abstraction and figuration, looking at fluidity, articulation, and delicate compositions. ■ 63
ACCESSORIES
Bazaar
(From right) Bags by Raqib Shaw; a close-up of Shaw’s work; and a piece by Eduardo Terrazas.
(From above) Details of the bags by Rina Banerjee
The natural world has always preoccupied artists. But with the fourth edition of the Dior Lady Art bag, it’s clear that the subject is a bigger focus than ever before. Started in 2016, the project brings together the worlds of art and fashion and positions the ‘It bag’ as a versatile medium of expression. This time, 11 artists from around the world, from Mexico to Japan, the United States, and even India, have used the iconic Lady Dior bag as a canvas to tell their stories. From Korean painter Jia Lee who embroidered fabric roses and daffodils to Japanese artist Kohei Nawa who used coloured gel and PVC to recreate bubbling lava, or American Mickalene Thomas’s impressionist landscape created using a fabric collage, this edition saw the widespread use of textiles, organic materials, and imagery of natural forms. Other artists who were part of the series include Mexican architect Eduardo Terrazas, conceptual painter Wang Guangle, and installation artist Joana Vasconcelos. We put the spotlight on the two South Asian artists who were part of the series. R I N A B A N E R J E E The Kolkata-born, New York-based artist has exhibited her organic paintings and sculptures around the world including the Venice Biennale and The Smithsonian Institution. A pale blue evil eye, constructed out of moonstones, beads, and feathers is at the centre of her version of the Lady Dior. Banerjee’s work often uses organic and found materials in a continuing dialogue between nature and culture. R AQ I B S H AW The London-based artist from Kashmir is known for his fantastical, opulent landscapes that reference mythology, poetry, science, and history. Using materials like enamel, metallic paints, and precious stones, he created an imaginary paradise on his bag, with visuals of a night sky, magnolia trees, and birds. ■
ent the
IMAGES: (RINA BANERJEE) HARRY EELMAN/DIOR; (RAQIB SHAW) JO METSON SCOTT/DIOR; (EDUARDO TERRAZAS) RODRIGO ALVAREZ/DIOR
v Ele
STS R Eior bag T ELady D
N
A R LI U T A en artists reinv N
ALL PRICES UPON REQUEST SEE WHERE TO BUY FOR DETAILS 64
Necklace, The House of ROSE.
Earrings, Raniwala 1881.
Earrings, Hazoorilal Legacy.
S
Pendant, Fabergé.
T
I
E G
BE
E N
F
Necklace, Bulgari.
a ck b s g w in s n th o y r ll e is m e h t w n le je shio s fa in
to
R
N I
Ta s
F
Bangle, Goenka India.
Earrings, Swarovski.
Earrings, DiaColor.
Necklace, Jet Gems.
Earrings, Mirari.
Earrings, Pretiós.
ALL PRICES UPON REQUEST SEE WHERE TO BUY FOR DETAILS 65
ACCESSORIES
Bazaar
M
y-fa vou rit e
A
T
AGI M E man behind c C I elebr H eet the it
N
K VA
Vishal Anil Kothari is one of a kind. A thirdgeneration jeweller, he shunned traditional design in search of something more unconventional: India Moderne—a unique design language that reworks traditional motifs such as paisley and florals by using carved stones and different metals. Today his eponymous brand makes just over 100 of these creations, which are sold at select boutiques across the world, and have even been found at auctions at Sotheby’s, Phillips, and Saffronart. He talks to Bazaar about his inspirations, aesthetics, and what’s next. Did you always want to work in jewellery? I wanted to be a sculptor, an artist. My family has been in the traditional business for three generations. When I joined my father, I felt a sense of continuity but also a lockdown. I had my own ideas. And a very strong design aesthetic. So I undid everything—the factory, the office, the design ethos. So in that sense you could say I am a first. A newbie. How would you describe your creations? I believe in slow luxury. High artisanal handcrafted jewellery, with rare gemstones handpicked by me. My design vocabulary of India Moderne is really quite global. It draws from art, sculpture and motifs in architecture from India so there are Gothic, Indo-Saracenic, and Mughal influences in my work. Salvador Dalí has had a strong influence on my work. What are you most inspired by? I am inspired by art, architectural motifs, nature, bands like Pink Floyd and Led Zeppelin, and musicians like Bob Dylan. And most recently the baroque edifice and interiors of The Royal Opera House, Mumbai. I am creating a line of jewellery based on this. I see jewellery as self-expression, not adornment. What’s next for you? I have an exciting auction season ahead of me along with shows in Europe, the US, and the Middle East. I sit on the committee of the Peabody Essex Museum in Massachusetts. I have been invited to talk at a couple of museums about my creative practice. My flagship store will open in November at The Royal Opera House. It is such a privilege to be housed in such an iconic monument. Like everything I will do it will be small. And enthralling, I hope.
By Arundhati De Sheth 66
IMAGES COURTESY: VAK JEWELLERY
y ller we Je
All jewellery, prices upon request, VAK Jewellery.
(Clockwise from top) Sobhita Dhulipala wearing the latest collection; statement ring, cascade earrings; delicate necklace; and medley ring, all Her Story.
L IST Wait
IMAGES: COURTESY THE BRAND
Mumbai-based label Her Story’s latest collection is a must-have for 2020
Her Story’s new Poetry in Motion collection is a tribute to graceful, elegant women. Inspired by the bells found on ghungroos, the design features delicate baubles crafted in diamonds and rose gold that move with the wearer, creating a soft, tinkling sound. Enamel work in mint green and sky blue add energy to the otherwise subtle creations, which can be attached or detached. “I loved the element of the ghungroos that the jewels are inspired by. As a classical dancer, it really resonated with me,” says actor Sobhita Dhulipala, who is the face of the brand’s campaign. Featuring a range of stackable rings, earrings, and pendants, Poetry in Motion is timeless and practical. ■ ALL PRICES UPON REQUEST SEE WHERE TO BUY FOR DETAILS 67
E T E R N A L LY Y O U R S Whether in everyday life or special occasions, jewels from Her Story will keep you company forever Photographs by MAYANK MUDNANEY
THIS PAGE: Necklace, earrings, bracelet, and rings, Her Story. Dress, `22,000, Atsu. OPPOSITE PAGE: Necklace, earrings, rings, and cuff, Her Story. Dress, `58,000, Gauri & Nainika. All jewellery, prices upon request. Creative director: Yurreipem Arthur. Fashion stylist: Parvati Mangal.
68
SPECIAL FEATURE
SPECIAL FEATURE
THIS PAGE: Earrings and bracelet, Her Story. Top, `18,500, Dhruv Kapoor. OPPOSITE PAGE: Earrings, rings, and cuff, Her Story. Dress, `34,990, Kate Spade New York.
71
THIS PAGE: Necklaces and earrings, Her Story. Top, `9,500, Pankaj & Nidhi. Skirt, `18,990, Kate Spade New York. OPPOSITE PAGE: Necklace, earrings, rings, and cuff, Her Story. Shirt, `11,900, Perona. Jumpsuit, `14,000, KoAi. See Where to Buy for details. Model: Sumaya Hazarika at Anima Creative Management. Hair and makeup: Guia Bianchi at Anima Creative Management. Production: P. Productions.
72
SPECIAL FEATURE
ACCESSORIES
Bazaar
LA
A legend held centre-stage at Blancpain’s
ST
Timeless Elegance exhibition at its flagship Fifth Avenue boutique in New York in October 2019. Once
IN
owned by legendary Hollywood
G IMPRES
star Marilyn Monroe, the stunning 73-diamond paved watch has a white rectangular dial with yellow hour-markers and blue hand. The vintage 1930s art deco timepiece was gifted to the actor by her husband Arthur Miller, and Blancpain bought it at a Julien’s auction in 2016. The Swiss luxury
S I O
watch manufacturer said it chose this cocktail watch to showcase its expertise
N
and pioneering spirit in the world of feminine watchmaking. “We are particularly proud to present for the very first time this cocktail watch owned by Marilyn Monroe,” said Marc A Hayek, president and CEO of Blancpain. “Especially since Marilyn Monroe had very few pieces of jewellery, despite the memorable Diamonds
IMAGE: COURTESY BLANCPAIN
Are a Girl’s Best Friend which she loved to sing.” ■
Blancpain watch worn by Marilyn Monroe, price upon request. SEE WHERE TO BUY FOR DETAILS
MAKEUP: CARMINDY AT KRAMER + KRAMER. HAIR: PATRICK KYLE. PHOTOGRAPHER AND FASHION EDITOR’S AGENCY: KRAMER + KRAMER. MODEL: INDIA MAKAILAH GRAHAM AT IMG MODELS.
BEAUTY
V I V I D H U E S Embrace the new year with vibrant colours and bold accessories. Plus, what you should be eating at your age. Illustration by Astrid Vos. Art director: Emily H. Rudman. Fashion editor: Gabriela Langone.
BEAUTY
Bazaar
LIFE imitating ART
Stand out in a crowd with playful silhouettes, OTT accessories, and a joyful, Crayola-bright palette Photographs by ANDREW DAY Illustrations by ASTRID VOS
76
BEAUTY
Bazaar
-sh ine top coa t.
Dress, `1,40,000 (approx), Alena Ahkmadullina. Earrings, `16,000 (approx), Victoria Hayes. Gloves, `25,500 (approx), Christian Wijnants.
ith w ld a r me e y —tr y r o ccess a n a a rich jewel-toned hue can double as h t i dw e t ur look with O.P.I’s N ate yo ain e 50. r p 8 a ` C i , l s y L v a cquer in Russian Na il Na
igh h a
79
BEAUTY
Bazaar
80
Bazaar
BEAUTY
ge A
E AT for your
Choosing the right food at the right time not only balances your hormones, but also sets your body up for success later on. Bazaar tells you the perfect diet for your decade. By Kelsey Kissane
While the core principles of consuming healthful food never changes, a woman’s age, lifestyle, and hormones do. Eating the correct foods at each stage of your life is crucial to living your healthiest life. Bazaar tells you what vitamins, minerals, and nutrients you should be eating at each decade. 20s: PREVENT DAMAGE These are the years in which, typically, you are healthy and can eat whatever you want without immediate negative effects. “This is the time to build bones and muscles, and correct deficiencies for possible future pregnancies and overall health,” says US-based double board certified MD and wellness expert Dr Amy Shah. She recommends choosing foods rich in vitamin D, such as mushrooms and tofu, and calcium-rich foods like beans and lentils. It is best to avoid restrictive eating patterns as they will damage your hormones and metabolism. Mumbai-based clinical nutritionist Pooja Makhija reminds us that this is the age at which to prevent damage. She recommends a glass of raw vegetable juice (containing three different colours of vegetables) each day, which ensures that your body is getting antioxidants. Her second rule is drinking plenty of water, which is necessary for the health of organs and brain function. “We take our body for granted during this time, and prevention is the secret to a healthy life in later years,” says Makhija. 30s: BUILD GUT HEALTH During this decade, you tend to be busy with a successful career or a family to care for, or both. It’s also a time when many women with flawless skin start to see adult hormonal acne.The first thing to do is limit sugar to balance hormones and decrease breakouts. Given that this is a time of possible child bearing, micronutrients such as iron and folate need to be high.“Eat leafy green vegetables, avocado, broccoli, and asparagus, which are full of both nutrients,” says Dr Shah. She also recommends adding onion and artichoke to your grocery list for their abundant supply of prebiotic fibre.“This is great for gut bacteria and now is the time when you should start focusing on cultivating that good bacteria for long-term health.” Protein is also necessary now, since the production of collagen slows down at this age.“It is an essential amino acid and helps stimulate collagen, which affects joints, muscles, organs, and skin, so choose quality 82
IMAGE: COURTESY VICTOR DEMARCHELIER
lean proteins like sprouts and legumes for vegetarians, and egg whites, chicken breast, and salmon for non-vegetarians,” says Makhija.Avoid proteins that are high in fat, though, since metabolisms tend to slow down at this age. 40s: ADD PREBIOTIC FIBRE You may start to see a big change in skin and weight during this time.Your skin starts to age and your metabolism really slows down.“I suggest intermittent fasting, which is a great tool to keep skin radiant and to kick-start your metabolism again,” says Dr Shah. Start with a 12-hour fast for the first few weeks and then gradually increase it to 16-18 hours. Focus on eating more fibre, especially prebiotic fibre like onions, garlic, and leeks, to balance hormones and prepare for menopause.“As for fitness, choose cyclical exercise, which means doing high intensity movements in the first two weeks of your cycle and then easing into less intense exercise such as strength training, yoga, and walking during the second half of the month,” says Dr Shah. 50s: INCREASE SPICES Menopause typically begins in your 50s, so it’s important to focus on consuming hormone-balancing spices and plants such as cinnamon, cardamom, and ashwagandha, paired with a diet low in sugar.“While I don’t typically recommend low-carb diets, this is the time of your life where such a diet can actually help,” says Dr Shah.“Your diet should focus on vegetable juice, protein, and water which will reduce symptoms of menopause, plus slow down any past damage that has been done,” says Makhija. 60s: FOCUS ON HEALTHY FATS Now is the time to prioritise the health and strength of your bones and muscles.Eat foods rich in omega 3-fatty acids, such as algae oil, salmon, chia seeds, and nuts, all of which are necessary for keeping bones strong.“It is time to choose a diet higher in fat, as hormones at this age don’t provide the proper lubrication for joints and skin,” says Dr Shah.As for exercise, she recommends weightbearing workouts, followed by a meal high in protein, to replenish muscle loss. ■
“I suggest intermittent fasting, which is a great tool to keep skin radiant and to kick-start your metabolism again.” —Dr Amy Shah 83
BEAUTY
Bazaar
T
A
I T A R
O F
S U C
f ra gr a
ut
C za a a r t B a , l k w s e i to Ca r O E terv n i olina e v i s P S Her clu x m Herrera perfumes—t o e r f r h n he B era a nc S u a a l In d d t s e Bo By P te Ba a y l r a e b ez leen h t ab d Gu n o jra sa e l Carolina Herrera ingredients for nc de Baez was just all Herrera perfumes?
24 when she started working at her mother, Carolina Herrera’s House of Fragrances as creative director. Now, at 50, she’s still at it, from conceptualising bottle designs and creating scents that evoke emotions, to working on campaign films that capture a perfume’s essence. Bazaar chatted with Carolina Jr on a beautiful sunny day in her hometown, Madrid, to know more about her relationship with fragrances. Harper’s Bazaar: Your mother often says, “Perfume is one’s invisible accessory.”What does it mean to you? Carolina Herrera de Baez: Fragrances, for me, are an emotional accessory. It’s not like the shoe or bag you buy. It’s intangible—something you do for yourself and for those who you choose to interact with on the day. I always say when you’re selling a perfume, you’re selling emotions and memories. HB: What’s your favourite scent? CHDB: I keep circling back to jasmine. It reminds me of my mother. I’ve grown up with the smell of jasmine and tuberose oils, which she wore every single day. And it’s also very important for the Carolina Herrera House. We started with jasmine in our first perfume and today Good Girl has base notes of the white flower. HB: Is this a conscious choice—to stick to similar
CHDB: Yes. We try to remain true to the House’s DNA. Take the Bad Boy, for instance. It was born from the Good Girl, from the tonka bean. For the Bad Boy, we roasted the tonka, which gives a darker, more bitter version. HB: How does the Bad Boy appeal to you? CHDB: It is the archetype of a rebel, with a good heart. I have discovered him through the contrast of aromas—the darkness of tonka beans and cacao and the freshness of sage and bergamot. It has turned the protagonist into a modern hero, while capturing the true meaning of ‘It’s good to be bad’. HB: How do you, as a creator, differentiate fragrances for men and women? CHDB: When we create scents, we think of what people like and want to wear. Women typically prefer floral notes while woody bases are more popular amongst men. Then we have unisex fragrances, but I think it’s impossible to make one perfume for everybody. It changes with where a person wears it, and how. HB:What does empowerment mean to you? CHDB:It’s all about embracing the different qualities of being a woman, which people may think make you weak, but it only makes you stronger. ■
THIS PAGE: The Bad Boy Eau De Toilette, `6,950/100ml. OPPOSITE PAGE: Carolina Herrera de Baez.
84
“FRAGRANCES, FOR ME, ARE AN EMOTIONAL AC C E S S O RY. I T ’S I N TA N G I B L E — S O M E T H I N G YO U DO FOR YOURSELF AND FOR THOSE WHO YOU C H O O S E T O I N T E R AC T W I T H O N T H E DAY. ”
IMAGES: COURTESY CAROLINA HERRERA
—CAROLINA HERRERA DE BAEZ
SEE WHERE TO BUY FOR DETAILS
BEAUTY
Bazaar
(Clockwise from right) Fusio Scrub, Energisant and Apaisant scrubs, K-camera scan, and ingredients.
MANE ATTRACTION What is it? Kérastase’s new Fusio Scrub is an immersive in-salon treatment that helps unclog pores and gives voluminous lustre. The exfoliating scrub can be used at home to replace your shampoo for a deep cleansing wash. How does it work? The skincare-inspired treatment involves a pre-scalp diagnosis by Kérastase’s camera which helps identify your scalp concerns. It uses microscopic technology that helps magnify the roots to identify scalp sensitivity, dryness, dandruff, oiliness, and density. Customise your treatment by choosing an exfoliant that works for you. You can also add essential oils such as peppermint, sandalwood, or ginger, which will help enlighten the
experience. The 25-mins treatment ends with the Fusio-Dose that boosts radiance and provides deep conditioning. What are the types? Choose the Scrub Energisant, which offers powerful exfoliation and purification for oily scalps. If you have a sensitive scalp, try the Scrub Apaisant that provides gentle exfoliation and rejuvenation. How to use it? The scrub works best as a replacement for your shampoo once a week. To exfoliate the scalp, wet your hair and section it using a comb. Use fingers to gently rub in a circular motion, rinse thoroughly, and follow with a nourishing treatment for your mid lengths. ■ Available in leading salons across the country SEE WHERE TO BUY FOR DETAILS
86
IMAGES: COURTESY THE BRAND.
The detox hair treatment for a sensorial experience, Kérastase’s new Fusio Scrub is a must-have for your scalp
SO Edited by ESHA MAHAJAN
women we
Girls just wanna have fun—but they also want to change the world. They ignore gender stereotypes, set new benchmarks, and break every glass ceiling that comes their way. And their achievements, though entirely their own, promise hope for an equal future. A new normal. As we start the new year, we celebrate the women who champion these values. 87
So
BAZAAR DR SEEMA RAO INDIA’S FIRST AND ONLY FEMALE COMBAT TRAINER WHO HAS BEEN INSTRUCTING THE COUNTRY’S ELITE ARMED FORCES FOR OVER TWO DECADES
“I look forward to training more, getting leaner and meaner, and advancing my hand-to-hand combat and sharpshooting skills. I want to empower more Indian women to take up jobs, reach their maximum potential, and stand shoulder to shoulder with men in all areas of achievement.”
THE UTURE IS
Kind. Compassionate. Inclusive. Empowering. Optimistic. Happy. What the new decade looks like, to the women who have inspired us most. Photographs by ABHEET GIDWANI & AKHIL SINGH Jacket, `6,500, AM:PM. Shirt, pants, and accessories, her own. Fashion stylists: Moumita Sarkar and Parvati Mangal.
89
So
BAZAAR GAZAL DHALIWAL THE FIRST TRANSGENDER WOMAN TO WRITE A MAINSTREAM BOLLYWOOD SCRIPT, FOR EK LADKI KO DEKHA TOH AISA LAGA
“I hope the new year challenges us to look within ourselves, and makes us question whether we’re doing enough to make an equal world—for women, for the queer, the disabled, the minorities, for all the ones who are born without privilege. Are we watching and hearing enough stories for them, about them, and from them? And if not, then why not? This decade must make us tell stories of the never-heard voices. Tell stories of kindness, equality, and truth. And this decade must also bring us more stories with happy endings. I believe we all deserve happy endings. Each one of us.”
Top, `5,790, Massimo Dutti. Skirt, price upon request, Label Ritu Kumar. Shoes, price upon request, Hermès. Bag, price upon request, Coach.
Dress, `39,700, BODICE. Shoes, her own.
RUCHIKA SACHDEVA THE FIRST INDIAN WOMAN TO WIN THE PRESTIGIOUS INTERNATIONAL WOOLMARK PRIZE, HER BRAND BODICE NOW RETAILS AT MEGASTORES LIKE HARVEY NICHOLS
“I want to be unapologetically authentic. There is so much happening in the world right now that needs attention, so it’s important to use one’s voice to create awareness. For me, 2020 is also going to be about questioning the impact of our actions on the environment.”
So
BAZAAR
NAOMI JANUMALA THE ONLY INDIAN MODEL TO BE FEATURED IN A CAMPAIGN FOR RIHANNA’S FASHION BRAND, FENTY
“My vision for 2020 would be to inspire more, embrace more, empower more, represent more, and work, work, work. I want to use my platform. If my work makes brown people or any people of colour feel better about themselves and gives them confidence, that means I’m doing my bit, and I’ll do it for life, with pleasure.” Dress, `1,08,000, AKHL. Shoes, price upon request, Jimmy Choo. Bag, price upon request, Coach.
DUTEE CHAND A RECORD-BREAKING SPRINTER, SHE IS ALSO INDIA’S FIRST OPENLY GAY ATHLETE
“I wish to bring laurels to my country. This is an important year for me because I want to outdo my previous performance in the 2016 Olympics.” Sweater, `82,000, and skirt, `24,000, Ralph Lauren. Jacket, `68,650, Suket Dhir. Earrings, her own. Bag, price upon request, Coach.
So
BAZAAR UPASANA MAKATI FOUNDER AND PUBLISHER, WHITE PRINT, INDIA’S FIRST LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE IN BRAILLE
“My work started with a magazine for the visually impaired, but led me to awareness about inclusion, and understanding how we could implement it for future generations. Personally, I want to step outside my comfort zone, and reach out to more people.” Dress, `16,900, and coat, `32,900, Rara Avis. Bag, price upon request, Coach.
Jacket, `38,500, Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna. Pants, `10,500, Siddartha Tytler. Bodysuit and shoes, her own. All accessories, MISHO.
SUHANI PAREKH WORN BY THE LIKES OF BEYONCÉ AND KENDALL JENNER, HER ACCESSORIES LABEL MISHO CELEBRATES THE IDEA OF ‘INDIA MODERN’
“The new year, while just another number, always feels like a wonderful new beginning. We started the year with a collection inspired by the snake and I think that perfectly sums it up—it’s all about evolving. Like the serpent, we must shed our old skins to create a new version of ourselves. My hope for the new year (and the decade ahead) is that it’s filled with creativity, adventures, and plenty of love and laughter.”
So
BAZAAR
DEVINA BUCKSHEE CO-FOUNDER, THE PINK LIST—THE COUNTRY’S ONLY ELECTORAL LIST OF POLITICIANS WHO SUPPORT LGBTQ+ RIGHTS
“I hope for more representation of women, of queer people, of those who identify by various other accesses of marginalisation. I hope that in 2020 everyone who has been ‘othered’ by mainstream politics recognises their power and takes up space.” Top, her own. Jacket, `49,990, Kshitij Jalori. Skirt, `29,000, Rajesh Pratap Singh. Watch, her own. Shoes, price upon request, Christian Louboutin.
RINA SINGH THE DRIVING FORCE BEHIND THE INDIAN LABEL EKA, SHE REIMAGINED THE KURTA IN AN EXCLUSIVE COLLECTION FOR UNIQLO
“We need to be more indigenous, more craft-based, more authentic in our voice. We have to create unique products that should become our language, from India to the world. I hope it’s always meaningful, and I hope there’s scope for more inclusivity in fashion.”
Dress, `22,500, and jacket, `32,500, Eka. Shoes, price upon request, Santoni.
So
BAZAAR SHILPA GUPTA THE CONTEMPORARY ARTIST WAS ONE OF ONLY THREE INDIANS TO BE SELECTED FOR THE MAIN EXHIBITION AT THE VENICE ART BIENNALE
“My hope for the new decade is for an environment that is open and non-divisive.” Top, `10,200, and pants, `16,800, BODICE. Shoes, price upon request, Jimmy Choo. Glasses, her own.
REENA KALLAT IN AN ONGOING SOLO SHOW AT MUMBAI’S CSMVS, THE ARTIST ADDRESSES THE FOUNDING VALUES OF COUNTRIES IN CONFLICT, THROUGH SCROLLS THAT DEPICT PREAMBLES TO THEIR CONSTITUTIONS
“I hope we have 20/20 vision in 2020, because we seem to be losing sight of the difference between fact and fiction, reality and fabrication. We need to really look at how our democracy is threatened today, and take charge of that situation. I hope we make more informed choices and restore our founding values of an inclusive society that’s enriched by everybody, and not ideas of segregation.” Dress, price upon request, Rajesh Pratap Singh. Belt, `2,990, Massimo Dutti. Shoes, price upon request, Jimmy Choo. Bag, price upon request, Coach. Ring, her own.
So
BAZAAR SMRITI DEORA CO-FOUNDER, THE PINK LIST—THE COUNTRY’S ONLY ELECTORAL LIST OF POLITICIANS WHO SUPPORT LGBTQ+ RIGHTS
“My hope is for people to have less of an ego, to take a step back, be more considerate, and treat others with kindness.” Jumpsuit, `33,990, Kate Spade New York. Jacket, `75,000, Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna.
ARANYA JOHAR A TALENTED POET, AND THE YOUNGEST MEMBER OF THE GENDER EQUALITY ADVISORY COUNCIL FOR THE G7
“What I want to see this year is more representation, so we can learn from one another. I want to see people be kinder to themselves, and each other. I hope in the next decade we’re more empathetic, more mindful of the opportunities we get and how to share them.”
Jumpsuit and belt, `31,000, and shoes, `22,500, MICHAEL Michael Kors. Bag, price upon request, Coach. See Where to Buy for details. Makeup: Shraddha Bachani and Harshana Makhija in Mumbai. Hair: Utsavi Choksi in Mumbai. Hair and makeup: Srishti Anand in Delhi and Alok Palei in Odisha. Production: P. Productions (Mumbai). Location: Courtesy Akhil Photography Studio (Odisha).
101
So
BAZAAR N A R T H A K I N ATA R A J F I R ST T R A N S G E N D E R W O M A N T O W I N A PA D M A S H R I APSARA REDDY FIRST TRANSGENDER MEMBER OF CONGRESS S H A I S TA A M B A R F O U N D E R O F A M B A R M AS J I D , F I R ST M O S Q U E T O B E O P E N T O M E N A N D W O M E N H I N A J A I S WA L F I R ST- E V E R F E M A L E F L I G H T E N G I N E E R , I N D I A N A I R F O R C E A A R O H I PA N D I T F I R ST W O M A N T O C R O S S T H E AT L A N T I C SOLO IN A LIGHT SPORT AIRCRAF T GAGANDEEP KANG FIRST INDIAN FEMALE SCIENTIST TO BECOME F E L L O W O F R OYA L S O C I E T Y, L O N D O N M A D H U B AG R I F I R ST W O M A N PA R A- AT H L E T E T O R E P R E S E N T I N D I A I N A N I N T E R N AT I O N A L T O U R N A M E N T F O R W H E E LC H A I R T E N N I S P R I YA DA R S H I N I PAWA R F I R ST I N D I A N W O M A N T O F I N I S H T H E 1 , 2 0 0 - K M PA R I S - B R E ST- PA R I S C I R C U I T, THE OLDEST CYCLING EVENT IN FRANCE
EQUA
An
Music
TA N I YA S A N YA L F I R ST F E M A L E F I R E F I G H T E R F O R A I R P O R T S AU T H O R I T Y O F I N D I A C H A N D R I M A S H A H A F I R ST- E V E R W O M A N P R E S I D E N T O F T H E I N D I A N N AT I O N A L S C I E N C E AC A D E M Y B H AWA N A K A N T H F I R ST F E M A L E F I G H T E R P I LOT T O Q U A L I F Y T O U N D E R TA K E C O M B AT M I S S I O N S ANSHULA KANT FIRST WOMAN CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER AND MANAGING DIRECTOR OF WORLD BANK MIRA ERDA FIRST INDIAN WOMAN TO RACE IN THE EURO JK SERIES GA R I M A A R O R A F I R ST I N D I A N W O M A N C H E F TO B E AWA R D E D A M I C H E L I N STA R R E S H M A N I L O F E R N A H A F I R S T A N D O N LY F E M A L E M A R I N E P I L O T I N I N D I A INDRA NOOYI FIRST INDEPENDENT FEMALE DIRECTOR OF THE ICC SHALIZA DHAMI INDIAN AIR FORCE’S FIRST FEMALE FLIGHT COMMANDER A N J A L I S I N G H F I R ST F E M A L E M I L I TA RY D I P LO M AT I N I N D I A T O BE POSTED IN MISSIONS ABROAD
102
A FEW YEARS AGO, a leading publication had to hastily drop the Best CEO-Woman category from its annual leadership awards. The winner, an industry veteran and avant-garde entrepreneur, had declined it on the grounds that she was either best CEO or not. To her, the gender classification of Best CEOWoman was an unacceptable tokenism. I remember applauding her move. I remember smirking at how she had smacked patriarchy in the face. I remember feeling equal and fabulous. But the thrill was soon tempered by uncertainty and a rush of questions: Had the CEO overreacted? Could the normalisation of female wins begin or did women’s achievements still need a separate category? Were we there yet? Consider that it continues to make sense to honour hard-nosed, independent women who call the shots and change the world. I realised this last year while putting together a book on women leaders for Bazaar India. Appropriately titled The Power List: Women Who Make Their Own Rules, the project was the publication’s hat-tip to women trailblazers, risk-takers, and sheer badassery.The women featured didn’t shy from this celebration of their gender, either. On the contrary. More, please, they said, because they knew that their stories would beget more such stories. In that context, the tokenism is not meaningless, nor is it tokenism. The CEO probably knew that too. After all, highlighting women in leadership roles is not just about optics. Studies have revealed a positive correlation between an organisation’s inclusivity and economic growth.Which is why the Companies’Act has pushed for more women directors on boards. And found success. From a token solo representative as a legal compulsion, today several top India Inc companies are proud to have at least two women on their boards. What the CEO was—rightly—protesting was what she perceived as the patronising nature of celebrating female Every new ground victories. Hello, March 8 and its pink-hued gimmickry. broken brings us one step
AL
closer to gender equality and a new normal
Women deserve more. They are no longer willing to play wallflower or be the person behind the person.The good news By Abhilasha Khaitan is that this is now being widely acknowledged. Not just by feminist groups but by society at large. This was forcefully brought home by the reaction to the headlines announcing that the 2019 Nobel Prize for Economics had gone to the husband-wife team of Abhijit Banerjee and Esther Duflo. ‘Indian-American MIT Prof Abhijit Banerjee and wife win Nobel in Economics’ or some variant was the headline across sections of the Indian media. That Duflo, the second and youngest woman ever to win this prize, had been relegated to secondary position and described as “wife” in this joint achievement caused an outcry. It was reasoned that no slight was intended and that Banerjee getting more prominence was merely a function of nationality trumping gender. The explanation was not unreasonable but neither was the indignation. Centuries of forcing women to play second fiddle will have consequences. No more sidelining. They’re willing to fight for a front-row seat to the world. (On a side note, I recommend the cringe-worthy phrase “and wife” be retired. In headlines, in invitation letters, in life.) And if we’re looking for wins, the controversy produced one more: The political incorrectness elicited a proportionate reaction and an apology. This was another indicator of the steady chipping away at stereotype and prejudice.Yes, it’s a work in progress but the results are already coming in and they are inspiring. In September last year, for the first time in the history of Indian sport, all the nine names forwarded by the Ministry ofYouth Affairs and Sports for the Padma Awards— the top civilian recognition—were women. Just a few years ago this would have been unthinkable. But now it’s beginning to define a new normal. Even better, the applause for the nine nominees bore no burden of tokenism and was untainted by pink-hued gimmickry.These women were best-in-class. Not best-in-gender. As are those flying first into the unknown, like the names listed alongside.Their achievements are genderagnostic but not gender-irrelevant: Because they show those watching that the adventure is a possibility, not a pipedream. Because they shift the focus from gender to the substance of their achievement. Because they are the best in the jobs they do. ■ 103
So
BAZAAR YEAR 2019 HAS BEEN PHENOMENAL FOR INDIAN SPORT, AND AT THE HEART and soul of it have been its women athletes. If 17-year-old college girl Manu Bhaker demolished existing records and set new highs in the world of international shooting, 36-year-old boxer MC Mary Kom showcased how being a mother of three and a Parliamentarian have had no effect on her ever-improving career graph. Age, motherhood, social boundaries, poverty, inexperience, pressure… they fought it all and made their mark. Olympic bronze medallist Mary Kom says,“Women today are more confident about themselves, it comes from success at the international level and an inner awakening.” “When has a woman ever learned to stop?” asks Mary, who picked up her eighth overall world championship medal this year, marking a first for any boxer. “Women have great inner strength and each time someone tries to stop them, they come back stronger.” “I am 36, a six-time world champion, still competing and winning, yet people ask me,‘When will you retire?’ I say, why should I? A woman can do everything. I get my kids ready for school, I train, then I go to the Parliament for my duties, I cook for my children and husband, I clean my house… yes, I do all of that. If I can go on to do other duties, why should I stop my boxing? That is also my duty, my life,” says Mary. Much like Mary, tennis queen Sania Mirza, too, is prepping for her return to the tennis court merely a year after giving birth to her son Izhaan.“Yes, I will be playing in Hobart and then the Australian Open 2020,” announced Sania, in what is considered as one of the most awaited comebacks in Indian sports. SHOOTING STARS
She is still not eligible for a driving licence or to cast a vote, but Manu Bhaker is already rewriting history books.The 17-year-old pistol shooter won seven golds this year and the icing on the cake was theWorld Cup Final medal in China in November. The secret to her success has been a cool and uncluttered approach.The Haryana girl burst on to the shooting scene two years ago and is known for her impeccable skills and no nonsense talks.“I don’t shoot for records, I don’t set targets. I just shoot. Shooting is a simple sport and I like to keep it that way,” says Manu. Word has it that just hours after winning the 2018 Commonwealth Games gold medal in Gold Coast, Manu went to her room in the Athletes Village, kept her medal in a box, and headed to the recreational area to enjoy a game of “table tennis with fellow shooters”. It was “work well done” for Manu, and time to be a “teenager again”. Well, that’s Manu for you.The new-age champion giving success a new meaning. TRACK QUEENS
Dutee Chand broke many barriers when she came out in the open about her samesex relationship last year.The unabashed sprinter is the epitome of grit and strength. In 2019, she became India’s first woman athlete to win a gold at the 30th Summer University Games at Napoli, Italy, in the 100 mts. “Pull me down, and I will come back stronger,” says the Odisha sprinter, who was ridiculed by family and the public for speaking about her personal life. “Love is the greatest emotion and it should not be denied. My family is unhappy and my sister threatened to send me to jail for having this relationship. But this is me,” says the 23-year-old. “I cannot let all this affect my performance. I have found love and I am proud of it. I will keep performing on the track and answering all my critics.” 104
The
They carry India’s hopes on a sporting field. Brave, confident, talented, defying boundaries, and setting new precedents, one can even term them super women. They are the real champions. By Harpreet Kaur Lamba
Hima Das was another sprinter who shined, winning five gold medals in different athletic meets within a span of 20 days, and was trending on Twitter for days. “I have said again and again that I don’t run after medals, I run after time,” says Hima. “With each race I try to cut down on my time. I love to see the tricolour go up and I am happy I have even made the Assamese gamocha famous!” SINDHU POWER
PV Sindhu’s dominance in badminton has been the stuff of dreams. From getting that precious silver medal in the 2016 Rio Olympics to her stupendous performance at the World Championships this year, the girl from Hyderabad is pure gold. To a nation obsessed with team sports, Sindhu has led and shown the way, beautifully. The World Championships gold in August 2019 was a massive achievement and even a relief for the 23-yearold powerhouse of talent, who was tired of responding to queries on why she was only winning silvers. She is now considered one of the prime athletes to fetch India a gold at the Tokyo Games. Sindhu’s day begins at 4:30 a.m., includes six to seven hours of physical training; she doesn’t use a phone during tournaments and is off ice-cream and sweets. “My wins and success has been courtesy my parents, grandparents, coaches, all the support staff at the Gopichand academy, and fellow players who have always been there with me,” she says.“World Championships was a huge goal and the next one is Olympics. I will really work hard and prepare well,” says Sindhu. Hockey captain Rani Rampal added to the list of achievements by women athletes when she helped her team qualify for Tokyo, scoring the all-important goal in the qualifiers at home. Not far behind were PU Chitra (1,500 mts gold in Asian Athletics Championships), wrestler Vinesh Phogat (first woman wrestler to qualify for Olympics), and para-badminton player Manasi Joshi with a World Championships gold, all of whom made 2019 truly memorable. Mary Kom sums it up:“It is foolhardy for anyone to think that they can stop a woman. A girl has much more strength than a man.We are fighters and can go on and on… if anyone thinks a woman will stop, they are wrong.We are out to conquer all.” ■
Changers 105
IMAGE: COURTESY PICHVAI TRADITION AND BEYOND
HOT LIST
A FRESH START Visionary Indian women who changed the course of history. Plus, the artists, restaurants, and trends you need to know in the new year. Temple Map, Pichvai Tradition and Beyond, stone colours on cloth, 2019, at India Art Fair 2020
107
HOT LIST
Bazaar
MAKING HISTORY CULTURE
With a persistent spirit and unwavering determination, these five women carved a place for themselves in history. We asked Ahsun Zafar of the popular Instagram account @brownhistory to recount their achievements.
PRINCESS INDIRA DEVI O N E O F T H E F I R ST WO M E N TO H O ST R A D I O B R OA D C ASTS With the onset of World War II, Princess Indira Devi drove motor ambulances during air raids in Britain, where she had moved in her early 20s to become an actor. Originally from the royal family of Kapurthala, Devi had different jobs including working as a postal censor for a brief period. In 1942, she joined BBC and came to be known as the ‘Radio Princess’. She hosted a half-hour programme for South Asian forces who were fighting in locations around the Middle East and the Mediterranean. Devi also broadcast The Debate Continues, a weekly report for South Asian audiences on the proceedings in the House of Commons. She was the only woman in the Press Gallery and she continued to work for the BBC until 1968.
108
JAYA B E N D E SA I CH AMP I ONED T HE CAUS E OF I MMIG RA NT WORK ERS IN TH E UK Jayaben Desai worked in a factory in northwest London where the workforce was made up mostly of South Asian women. They were overworked, exploited, and paid little. On Friday, August 20, 1976, Desai reached her breaking point when she was asked to work overtime. She walked out in protest, yelling at one of the managers—“What you are running here is not a factory, it is a zoo. But, in a zoo, there are many types of animals. Some are monkeys who dance on your fingertips; others are lions who can bite your head off. We are the lions, Mr Manager! I want my freedom!” These powerful words marked the start of the historical Grunwick strike, which lasted two years, and was joined by thousands. Even though they were ultimately defeated, the protesters forever changed the way Britain saw immigrant workers and demolished the stereotype of South Asian women as being submissive and passive.
IMAGES: COURTESY AHSUN ZAFAR
N O O R I N AYAT K H A N T H E S P Y W H O SAC R I F I C E D H E R L I F E I N T H E R E S I STA N C E AG A I N ST H I T L E R Khan didn’t join the war for Britain; she did it because she valued freedom above all. Raised in Paris by an Indian father and an American mother, she escaped to Britain when the city was occupied by the Germans in 1940. On joining the Women’s Auxiliary Air Force, she was soon recruited to be the first female radio operator sent into Nazi-occupied France. She evaded capture many times, changing her looks, outfits, and routine, and making sure she did not stay in the same place for too long. When Khan’s crew was captured, she stayed on and did the work of six men all by herself. Eventually she was betrayed and captured, and over the next 10 months, she was kept in chains in solitary confinement. Despite repeated torture, she refused to reveal any information. In 1944, Khan was transferred to a concentration camp and executed by gunshot. She was only 30. Her last word was “liberté!” ➤ 000
HOT LIST
Bazaar
A R AT I SA H A CO N Q U E R E D T H E ENGLISH CHANNEL AG A I N ST A L L O D D S AT O N LY 1 9
M I N N E T T E D E S I LVA O N E O F T H E WO R L D ’ S M O ST FAMOUS FEMALE ARCHITECTS As a student at the Architectural Association School of Architecture in London, Minnette de Silva was often spotted wearing one of her colourful saris, followed by a line of young male students carrying her bags and instruments. Now considered one of Sri Lanka’s first modernist architects, the Kandy-born de Silva launched herself into London society and was friends with the likes of Pablo Picasso and Jo Davidson. Eventually she became the first South Asian woman to be elected an Associate of the Royal Institute of British Architects. In 1948, she moved back to Sri Lanka and was one of only two women in the world at the time to establish an architectural practice in her own name. The Pieris House and the Asoka Amarasinghe House are two of her works that can still be seen in Colombo. ■
110
IMAGES: COURTESY AHSUN ZAFAR
In 1959, Arati Saha became the first Asian woman to successfully swim across the English Channel in 16 hours and 20 minutes. It was not easy to get there. First, she and her team had to raise funds that eventually included a request to the Chief Minister of West Bengal and to then-Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru. In her first attempt, Saha went up against 58 swimmers from 23 different countries (men and women). She had a rough start, which included arriving late to the contest, bad weather, and strong currents. But Saha didn’t let that defeat her. She tried again a few months later and was successful. All India Radio announced her achievement to the country.
FOOD A B R E AT H O F F R E S H A I R This winter, enjoy sundowners or dinner at Gallops’s newest outdoor eatery
IMAGES: COURTESY THE RESTAURANTS
A south Mumbai institution, Gallops restaurant at Mahalaxmi Race Course has opened an al fresco section. The space celebrates the old-world charm of the restaurant along with a fresh new ambience and menu. Guests can relax amidst the greenery of the racecourse and enjoy breathtaking views of the walking track and horse stables. Al Fresco will offer lounge seating and dinner tables set under fairy lights and chandeliers, and serve a menu of small and large plates, as well as cocktails inspired by nature. Specials created by chef Yajush Malik include baked olives, smoked mackerel, chilli-baked brie, cognac braised scallops, and more.
(Cloclwise from above) Al Fresco restaurant at Gallops; a food spread; raspberry mille-feuille; smoked mackerel.
FOOD
T W I C E AS N I C E (Clockwise from right) The decor of Nege; gin and tonic; spicy okra with tofu orange foam; Ju in the evening. .
European by day and pan-Asian by night, Nege & Ju keeps it interesting, as everything from the menu to the décor is switched up daily, along with the cuisine. Founded by Randeep Bajaj and Navneet Randhawa, the restaurant is named after the number nine in Afrikaans and 10 in Japanese. For lunch at Nege, from 12:00 PM to 4:00 PM, this new favourite serves a delicious parmesan tortellini in orange butter sauce, tapas cochin prawns, and grilled meats. From 7:00 PM onwards, at Ju, there’s carpaccio, temaki, and dishes in pepper or spicy peanut sauce. And the cocktails are made with fresh juices, homemade purees, syrups, and shrubs. ■ Located at 9-10, Lodhi Colony, Delhi
111
HOT LIST
Bazaar
(From top) Ménéhould de Bazelaire du Chatelle; Duc attelé et groom à l’attente, Alfred de Dreux (1810-1860), lead pencil drawing with gouache and red pencil; Rocking horse from the maternal family of Julie Hermès, painted wood, horsehair, glass, leather, and iron, France, 19th century.
T
H
E ins pir ed
112
W
A
Y
ART
F O R WA R D
Th as ma h , e ex ny ris a qui inn ,P site m ova u c e ollec us tion M t i s o è n s at of antiqu – e the fa ities from the Émile Herm g a t Ro eri shion H lla s uge è a h o m u r h s e e . H The touring exhibition s He ka B i rmès h d Ra spotligh ts the power of imagination. By
IMAGES: COURTESY EMILE HERMÈS COLLECTION, GUY LUCAS DE PESLOUAN, STUDIO SÉBERT, STUDIO DES FLEURS, THIERRY JACOB, HERMÈS, 2019. MÉNÉHOULD DU CHATELLE'S PORTRAIT: VALÉRIE ARCHENO.
(From far left) The Émile Hermès Museum in Paris; gown, by Claude Brouet, autumn-winter 1995, silk satin, Hermès’ Conservatory of Creations collection, Hermès, 2019.
(Clockwise from left) Brides de Gala Shadow scarf; La canne galante, Parasol cane, Pierre Louis Sagnier, circa 1801; handbag which belonged to Pauline Bonaparte, Morocco leather, tortoiseshell, and steel, France, beginning of 19th century; Hermy plush horse, Rouge H, cashmere; plate from Della Cavalleria. Gründtlicher Bericht von allem was zu der Reutterei... by Georg Engelhard von Löhneysen, Remlingen, 1609–1610.
RECOUNTINGTHE HISTORY OF HERMÈS, Ménéhould de Bazelaire du Chatelle tells the story of Émile Hermès, the patriarch of the luxury French brand, purchasing his first “treasure” at the age of 12—“He got his first tip of two francs in 1883, making deliveries for his grandfather’s company [of leather accessories for horses], and it was quite a lot of money for a young boy. He bought an antique walking stick with it—La canne galante—that contained a little parasol hidden inside the handle.” This became the starting point for Hermès’s collection of antiquities from around the world. Ménéhould is the artistic director of the cultural patrimony of the luxury brand, responsible for looking after and adding to the Émile Hermès Museum in Paris. Her experience in the field makes her perfect for the role—having previously worked in the Drawing Department of the Louvre Museum, Paris and studied literature, Latin, Greek, and history. Bazaar met her at The Chanakya, Delhi, when she was in town for the Hermès Heritage – Rouges Hermès exhibition, curated by renowned conservator Bruno Gaudichon. “The Émile Hermès archive, conservatoire of Hermès creations, and collection are perpetual food to nurture, to feed the creativity of the brand,” explains Ménéhould.“It is not a sleeping museum to remember the past; there are living links that act as springs to create the present and adapt.” This spirit of innovation has been the hallmark since the 1920s, when Émile expanded its scope beyond leather equestrian gear to include accessories and clothing. Celebrating the new age of movement and modernity, Émile Hermès invented the Sac Pour L’Auto or a bag for the automobile in 1923—the first sturdy, leather bag for women with a zipper. “He offered this first model to his wife, Julie, with her initials on it—she had a driver’s license back in the ’20s.This was one of the first handbags invented by him, and it’s not an exaggeration to say it was a mini revolution because it was designed to accompany women in their daily lives, from morning to evening.Today, it is the Bolide bag,” she says. That the use of zippers on dresses and bags was a novelty back then—an idea that came from his service in World War I—and even Coco Chanel turned to him to include them in her designs is a story unto itself. But what is truly special is the way the museum inspires modern creations. There are scarves inspired from a rare book on horsemanship, the Della Cavalleria from 1609 AD. And the porcelain service Cheval d’Orient takes from a selection of Mughal miniatures.A large family rocking horse from the 19th century has been reimagined as a little cashmere toy for children. The exhibition in New Delhi, meanwhile, pays ode to the brand’s long-standing association with the colour red. Ménéhould speaks of how it represented the energetic, new, outdoors lifestyle for Émile Hermès and working with tanner Monsieur Combe, he developed the recipe for Rouge Hermes in the early 1920s. She turns to an exquisite red silk satin gown made by Claude Brouet, who joined as fashion director of women’s ready-to-wear in 1989.“Each person who joins the company is invited to take a stroll of the Émile Hermès collection, just to be amazed, to dream, and to breathe in the heritage and DNA of the brand. I remember when Claude came, she was fascinated by a riding suit that once belonged to Mme Julie Hermès—a black wool suit designed in the late 19th century. Claude asked me to put it on the ground, took the pattern and measurement, and turned it into a splendid evening dress made of silk in striking Jupiter red. It has the spirit of elegance, seduction, attraction, and lightness,” she shares. “For Hermès we never want to imagine that the story is finished. The motto has always been to go further, to explore, to create.” And this impetus lies in the treasures of the past. ■ 113
HOT LIST
Bazaar
DÉCOR B I RT H O F V E N U S : AN ENTREPRENEUR’S TALE
A favourite of the Kardashians, Hadids, and Oprah, and in the wake of a Forbes 30 Under 30 listing in the first year of business, it’s all coming up roses for founder Seema Chadha. The best ideas are born of love. This is particularly true for Seema Chadha who co-founded Venus ET Fleur when she was in a long-distance relationship. Sunny, her partner in life and business, had sent her a bouquet of roses, which arrived in poor condition. Thus began the duo’s search for a way to create Eternity Roses, which can last for upto a year. And there was clearly a market for them—they launched in 2015 and its current estimated revenue is $7.5 million. Clients include the Kardashians and Gigi Hadid, then Oprah got involved, and soon Vancouver-born, New York-based Chadha was on the Forbes 30 Under 30 list before her 27th birthday. “We wanted to create a worldwide service that can stand the test of time, so we decided to disrupt the industry by elevating and transforming the traditional floral experience,” says the former marketing executive. Venus ET Fleur roses are grown in Ecuador, and “each rose is treated with a proprietary, non-toxic wax to slow the aging process,” she adds. Care is minimal—you don’t need to water them, and delivery is across the world. By Divya Bala
(Clockwise from top left) Seema Chadha; flower installations and arrangements by Venus ET Fleur.
ART
Such a Morning, film still (above), and installation view (right), Marian Goodman Gallery, New York, 2018.
114
The voice of protest can emerge in many ways. For award-winning and internationally-exhibited Indian artist Amar Kanwar, it comes in the form of two solo exhibitions that will be staged in Dubai and Abu Dhabi this January. Such a Morning (2017) at Ishara Art Foundation—which premiered at documenta 14 in Germany and Athens—is a film that deals with the pursuit of truth. Meanwhile, The Sovereign Forest at The NYUAD Art Gallery is a multimedia installation that explores issues of conflict, evidence, and ecological destruction. The visuals are a poignant narrative of today’s times. ■ Such a Morning is at Ishara Art Foundation, Dubai, from January 20 to May 20. The Sovereign Forest is at The NYUAD Art Gallery, Abu Dhabi, from January 22 to May 30.
IMAGES: COURTESY VENUS ET FLEUR. PHOTOGRAPHS: AMAR KANWAR STUDIO AND CATHY CARVER.
UNDER PRESSURE
MY CULTURAL LIFE
In conversation with Man Booker Prize-winner Howard Jacobson What is on your bedside table? A clock. What does a typical day of writing look like for you? I start in the morning and finish when I need a glass of red wine. Your most prized possession? When I was writing Shylock is my Name, my wife bought me a turquoise ring to remind me of the one Jessica stole and then sold to buy a monkey. I would not part with it for a wilderness of monkeys. Tell us three things about your latest novel, Live a Little. The two main characters are 90; they meet in a cemetery; they fall in love through conversation. The last great book you read? The Stranger by Albert Camus. The most interesting thing you discovered from a book recently? That the title of Alice Munro’s story The Bear that Came Over the Mountain comes from nursery rhyme. I know that’s not very interesting but it allows me to mention a very good story. A classic you still haven’t read? Nikolai Gogol’s Dead Souls. The last book that made you laugh out loud? Aunt Julia and the Scriptwriter by Mario Vargas Llosa. A book all politicians should read? The complete works of Shakespeare. When are you happiest? Professionally: When I’m writing. Personally: It’s private. Your last purchase? A bottle of red Italian wine. Your biggest extravagance? Shirts. Howard Jacobson will be at the 13th edition of the Jaipur Literature Festival from January 23–27
BOOKS
VOICES OF DISSENT Celebrate the freedom to read with powerful works of literature that have once been banned
HOT LIST
Bazaar
ART ST R E TC H I N G T H E C A N VAS
What to look forward to at the 12th edition of the India Art Fair
(Clockwise from top left) 28 Drawings has nothing to do with my Age, Tehmeena Firdos, mixed media, 2018; Sunny Bedroom, Sun Tae Hwang, tempered glass, sandblast, and LED backlit, 2019; Time after Time, Salman Toor, oil on panel, 2018; Nataraja-The Dancing Shiva, Avinash Karn, Madhubani, acrylic on clay, 2018; Ain’t gonna get out of this world alive, Marcel Dzama, watercolour, ink, and graphite on paper, 2019.
116
FOOD HIGH S P I R I TS
Chef Kelvin Cheung on his new restaurants in Delhi Tell us about the new spaces. Dadel, in the basement, is a fun, flamboyant lounge-bar dedicated to great cocktails. Upstairs, we have the Asianforward restaurant, Kiko-Bā, with dishes from my favourite Asian countries. I’ve included the techniques I learned at my father’s restaurant, culinary school, and work over the years. Both spaces have been launched by White Panda Hospitality. What will you be incorporating from your travels around the world? Memories and experiences. Most chefs inherently absorb flavour memories while travelling and it becomes a part of our repertoire. What are the stories behind the dishes? We’re serving a locally-sourced heirloom baby corn with husk, which comes from my memory as a child picking fresh corn on the farms of Toronto. And there’s a robata grilled smoky gai yang, a street snack I tried as a young man in northern Thailand. ■ Located at 62 Basant Lok Market, Vasant Vihar, Delhi
IMAGES: COURTESY AKAR PRAKAR, MARCEL DZAMA, AND DAVID ZWIRNER, AICON GALLERY, SUN TAE HWANG, INDIA ART FAIR. KELVIN CHEUNG’S PHOTOGRAPH: FROZEN PIXEL STUDIO.
“Keeping the artist’s voice at its core, the 2020 edition of India Art Fair will have an expanded public programme of live performances and events, an extended bookshop, and diverse talk platforms,” says Jagdip Jagpal, director of the largest art exposition in the country. This year, it promises to be bigger—75 exhibitors will showcase across 20 global cities, of which 14 are in India. And a new Artists in Residence programme will include free workshops by Gagan Singh, Marcel Dzama, and Manisha Parekh. “Akar Prakar, a legacy gallery from Kolkata, will present works by some of the most celebrated artists from the Bengal School—Nandalal Bose, Abanindranath Tagore, Gaganendranath Tagore, Rabindranath Tagore, Benode Bihari Mukherjee, and Ganesh Haloi,” she adds. “And for the first time in its 12-year history, there will be a project by an anonymous artist. Finally, Chitra Ganesh debuts with IAF with themes that highlight gender, sexuality, and feminine power [that are] typically absent from canons of literature and art.” On from January 30 to February 2 at NSIC Grounds, Delhi
FASHION
Shirt, Coach. Creative director: Yurreipem Arthur. Fashion director: Edward Lalrempuia.
HAIR AND MAKEUP: BIANCA HARTKOPF AT NINA KLEIN MANAGEMENT. ACTOR’S REPUTATION MANAGEMENT COMPANY: RAINDROP MEDIA. FASHION EDITOR: SMRIDHI SIBAL. LOCATION: COURTESY BÜRGENSTOCK RESORT, SWITZERLAND.
Photograph by Alan Gelati.
ON TOP OF THE WORLD Bazaar travels to Switzerland with star of the moment Kriti Sanon. Plus, the best of Chanel Cruise 2020, and stunning red-on-red looks against Baku’s architectural marvel.
3
AN EYE TO THE
In the past decade, Kriti Sanon went from being an engineering student to a bona ďŹ de star. Here, the actor talks to us about portraying strong characters, stepping outside her comfort zone, and making it on her own. Photographs by ALAN GELATI
Jacket and dress, Coach. Watch, Tissot. Creative director: Yurreipem Arthur. Fashion director: Edward Lalrempuia.
t’s 0 °Celsius in Lucerne, Switzerland. From the high ridge of the Bürgenstock Resort, a panoramic view of the Alpine snowscape stretches ceaselessly.We are freezing, and so is Kriti Sanon. But when the cameras start flashing, the 29-year-old actor poises herself with a steadfast determination that is reminiscent of her career. Sanon made her Bollywood debut in 2014, to wide critical and popular acclaim for Heropanti, and has since starred in several commercially successful films. Now, fresh off the release of her first period-drama Panipat, she’s ready for more challenging roles. What is the most exciting thing about being an actor in Bollywood today?
I think this is the best time to be a female actor in this industry, because we are getting more substantial roles that really allow us to come into our own. And with femaleoriented films doing well at the box office, more and more producers and directors are willing to make such films. Tell us about your journey so far.
Well it’s been a dream. I was quite a studious child and loved science, so I entered an engineering college without even knowing what an engineer does! Acting was something I had never tried.When I began modelling, I realised I liked being in front of the camera. Soon enough, I moved to Mumbai to give acting a shot. Being a model helped me groom my personality, but I fell in love with performing. My passion has only grown since then. It’s been a hit-and-trial process, knowing what works for me and what doesn’t. Since I have no formal training in theatre or films, I’ve had to learn on the job and that has been really enjoyable. My goal is just to grow with every performance. You’ve earned all your achievements on your own. How does that feel?
It feels great to be able to achieve a dream that many people once said was too big. Not being from a film family obviously makes it way more difficult to get in and find your place in the industry. But I am blessed and fortunate to have met some really supportive people who believed in me and my talent, and enabled me to prove myself—Sajid Nadiadwala and Sabbir Khan gave me the best possible Bollywood debut; Rohit Shetty helped me gain great exposure with Dilwale; Dinesh Vijan has always believed in my potential as an actor ever since Raabta; Ashwiny Iyer Tiwari,Vineet Jain, and Renu Ravi Chopra believed that I could be Bitti from Bareilly; and Ashutosh Gowariker who thought that I would be convincing as Parvatibai in Panipat.These are the relationships that I’ll always treasure. Last year ended on a high note for you, with the release of Panipat. What has been your highlight of this experience?
It’s been amazing. It was my first time playing a historical character. As not much is written about Parvatibai, I couldn’t really research her character on my own, and a lot of it came from my director Ashutosh Gowariker. I think the best part of any filmmaking process for an actor is when you’re discovering your character’s traits in the subtext of the script. I’m really glad that we made Parvatibai so powerful and multidimensional. She was a woman in love, playful,
120
Dress, belt, bag, and shoes, Coach. Stockings, stylist’s own. Watch, Tissot.
Top and skirt, Coach. Watch, Tissot.
“I think this is the best time to be a female actor in this industry, because we are getting more substantial roles that really allow us to come into our own.”
and could be childish.And at the same time, she could be very, very strong. She stood up when they needed her to, and actually helped the Marathas in a big way. She picked up the sword and fought to save her people.That, for me, was a big highlight of the shooting. I also realised that I really like doing action. I had to do a sword fight wearing a Nauvari sari and a lot of jewellery, and that was a lot of fun! What kinds of roles excite you?
I look for strong characters that are also vulnerable. Sometimes, I really like doing quirky roles which are a bit unpredictable. I don’t like to follow a set pattern in choosing my characters.They have to have some sort of spunk. What is your attitude towards success and failure in the industry?
Indifference. I think both don’t really matter in the long run.Your fate changes every Friday, in a way. So, if you’ve had a successful turn, it may not necessarily influence the success of your next release. It’s not going to matter.You shouldn’t take success or failure very seriously. At least I don’t. Of course, you want your films to do well. But at the end of it, if you know that you’ve given your all, and that you’ve done the film for the right reason, then I think both are just temporary. As you enter your seventh year of acting in 2020, what do you look forward to the most?
I really like the kind of work and opportunities that I’m getting. Every film I have done feels like a milestone, both professionally and personally.The amazing responses I got after the release of Panipat have really boosted my self-confidence.As an actor and performer, I crave to be recognised for my talent.With Panipat, I tried to do something different.As a Punjabi girl from Delhi, I was outside of my comfort zone playing Parvatibai. So being able to strike a connection with her makes me want to try newer things. I hope 2020 is going to bring different kinds of roles and films. I have a huge list of directors who I want to work with, and I hope to at least tick off a couple from the list. And on a personal front, what are your goals?
I’m terrible at making goals. I think it never works when I plan things. So I want to take it as it comes. I would really like to learn a new thing, like belly dancing, which I’ve never tried. I want to prioritise spending time with my family and taking care of myself instead of working like a mad person.And doing stuff that I really feel for. I’m doing a film Mimi, which is based on the theme of surrogacy, but is done in a very entertaining and light manner. It’s a film that completely rests on my shoulders. So that’s a first for me. I’m really looking forward to entering my seventh year with Mimi. ■
Top, skirt, and bag, Coach. Watch, Tissot.
124
THIS PAGE: Top, Coach. Watch, Tissot. OPPOSITE PAGE: Top, jacket, and pants, Coach. Watch, Tissot.
126
Top, jacket, pants, and shoes, Coach. Watch, Tissot. See Where to Buy for details. Hair and makeup: Bianca Hartkopf at Nina Klein Management. Artist’s reputation management company: Raindrop Media. Fashion editor: Smridhi Sibal. Location: courtesy Bßrgenstock Resort, Switzerland.
THE GREAT WHITE Power shoulders and structured silhouettes in striking red are juxtaposed with Baku’s iconic cultural landmark—the Heydar Aliyev Centre Photographs by KAY SUKUMAR Top, `2,899, Agrajain. Dress, `22,999, Giambattista Valli x H&M. Belt, `75,000, Zana Bayne. Shoes, `4,999, Truffle Collection. Fashion director: Edward Lalrempuia.
THIS PAGE: Jacket, `10,000, Sameer Madan. Pants, `5,500, MADISON. Dress (worn as jacket), Michael Kors Collection. Shoes, `3,699, Truffle Collection. OPPOSITE PAGE: Top, `12,400, Bloni. Pants, stylist’s own. Dress, `15,999, Agrajain. Stockings, Gucci. Shoes, `82,000, Christian Louboutin.
THIS PAGE: Top, `10,400, and pants, `10,500, Notebook. Shoes, `50,000 (approx), Paule Ka. OPPOSITE PAGE: Jacket, skirt, and belt, Alexander McQueen.
THIS PAGE: Shirt, `19,500, Bloni. Sari, Rimzim Dadu. Belt, `8,500, Essé. OPPOSITE PAGE: Dress, `15,900, Lovebirds. Top, `15,900, and skirt, `17,900, Rara Avis. Shoes, `3,499, Truffle Collection.
THIS PAGE: Top, `2,899, Agrajain. Jacket and pants, Victoria Beckham at Bisque, Baku. Belt, `12,900, Rara Avis. Shoes, `3,499, Truffle Collection. OPPOSITE PAGE: Dress, `12,500, Sameer Madan. Jacket, `22,500, Dhruv Kapoor. Belt, `75,000, Zana Bayne. Shoes, Aquazzura.
Jumpsuit, `90,000, Gauri & Nainika. Belt, `75,000, Zana Bayne. Shoes, `3,499, Truffle Collection. See Where to Buy for details. Model: Anugraha Natarajan at Feat. Artists. Hair and makeup: Mitesh Rajani at Feat. Artists. Photographer’s agency: Faze Creative Management. Production: Parul Menezes. Fashion assistant: Parvati Mangal. Location: Courtesy Heydar Aliyev Center, Baku, Azerbaijan. Special thanks to: Azerbaijan Tourism Board.
PARIS, MON AMOUR Tweed blazers, fine knitwear, and an ode to the ’80s—Chanel’s Cruise 2020 collection celebrates the best of French style Photographs by ANDREA VARANI All clothes and accessories, CHANEL. Creative director: Yurreipem Arthur. Fashion editor: Smridhi Sibal.
THIS PAGE: All clothes and accessories, CHANEL. OPPOSITE PAGE: All clothes, CHANEL. Earrings and J12 caliber 12.1 black ceramic 38mm watch, CHANEL.
144
THIS PAGE: All clothes and accessories, CHANEL. OPPOSITE PAGE: All clothes and accessories, CHANEL.
THIS PAGE: All clothes, CHANEL. Earrings and J12 caliber 12.1 black ceramic 38mm watch, CHANEL. OPPOSITE PAGE: All clothes and accessories, CHANEL.
149
THIS PAGE: All clothes and accessories, CHANEL. OPPOSITE PAGE: All clothes and accessories, CHANEL.
152
THIS PAGE: All clothes and accessories, CHANEL. OPPOSITE PAGE: All clothes and accessories, CHANEL. See Where to Buy for details. Model: Madhulika Sharma at Muse Managemenr NYC. Hair: Alexis Parente at B-Agency. Makeup: Elsa Durrens at CHANEL using Les Beiges Eau de Teint in Light Deep, Le Correcteur Abricot de Chanel, Ombre Première Gloss in #057 Lunaire, Stylo Yeux Waterproof in #88 Noir Intense, Mascara Inimitable Waterproof in #10 Noir, Le Gel Sourcils in #350 Transparent, Baume Essentiel in Sculpting, Rouge Allure Liquid Powder in #978 Bois de Nuit, and Le Vernis in #18 Rouge Noir. Production: Gaia Geneston.
A
E
U R V E
A H E
T H
C
IMAGE: COURTESY MMGETTY
D
O F
Through a seamless confluence of age-old traditions and new design innovations, the Azerbaijani capital of Baku is fast defining the modern spirit of the country
155
ESCAPE
Bazaar
A
F R E S H
S TA R T
A solo traveller’s guide to finding joy in the quaint bylanes of Baku, Azerbaijan
I SPENT A GOOD PART OF MY YOUNG ADULT LIFE watching reruns of the 1955 classic Sabrina— Audrey Hepburn is packed off to Paris to discover herself, a passion for cooking, and a newfound joy for life. Something about her transformation fascinated me, the strength with which she returns and, of course, the glamourous French fashion. It came as a surprise, then, though it shouldn’t have, that during a moment of general overwhelm my editor insisted I visit Baku in Azerbaijan.This coastal city by the Caspian Sea is also known as ‘Paris of the East’, and the sobriquet is welldeserved, for it’s a charming destination for the solo female traveller. I arrived on a crisp autumn afternoon, and didn’t waste a minute. Nothing prepares you for the quaint Icherisheher, the Old City that’s a UNESCOWorld Heritage Site dating back to at least the 12th century.This is where the ‘original inhabitants’ of the city live, a meandering cobblestoned settlement that has retained the oldworld beauty of its medieval architecture.There’s 156
IMAGES: COURTESY AZERBAIJAN TOURISM BOARD
By Radhika Bhalla
(Clockwise from left) Panoramic view of the city with the Flame Towers in the distance; the Maiden Tower; Ateshgah of Baku; Icherisheher; Heydar Aliyev Centre; Novruz sweets at a restaurant;
something fascinating about the Islamic-European buildings as they transport you to a different era; and it’s almost another world inside the little souvenir and carpet shops, and eateries that dot the lanes. Qaynana is a local favourite restaurant, famous for its breakfast, Fesenjan chicken, pilaf (a pulao baked in a lavash crust), and the pomegranate wine. It overlooks the corner of a street, with bay windows to soak in the atmosphere of the city, traditional décor, and a life-size doll of ‘the mother-in-law’: A 1978 comedy classic that it’s named after. Eating a meal by yourself in a new city is at once empowering and intimidating;there’s personal freedom in confronting the unease,delight in the admission that you’re entirely happy in your own company.This awareness needed to be celebrated—not with clothes or disposable knick-knacks,but my first‘adult’purchase of Azerbaijani carpets for my home.Wandering around, I chanced upon a store hidden under a bridge near the Maiden Tower—this nook called Unique Carpets is like a cave of woven wonders, with carpets hanging from the walls, on the ground, and rolled up. Beauty in every knot. The next day was dedicated to sight-seeing. My guide and I drove into the suburbs of the city to visit the Ateshgah of Baku, a 7th-century fire temple that was once venerated by Zoroastrian and Hindu pilgrims. It’s a stark, quiet monument that had a natural flame burning till 1969, which was continued with piped gas thereafter. Fire is of vital importance in Azerbaijan—here; at the nearbyYanar Dag hill with its eternal flames burning for hundreds of years; at the Maiden Tower, believed to have been a Zoroastrian fire temple; and the FlameTowers that are modern skyscrapers in Baku. It’s a symbol of life and renewal, transforming everything it touches. This deep sense of cultural and even spiritual quality to life is reflected in the many art forms of Azerbaijan. The modernist museum, Heydar Aliyev Centre, with its curved abstract exterior is prominent for contemporary art and traditional crafts. In a small, dimly-lit section plays a recording of renowned mugham singer Alim Qasimov and his daughter Farghana. There’s a stirring quality to the music, in the rise and fall of pitch and rhythm, which lingers like a scent that trails along as you admire the art-like carpets in the nearby Azerbaijan Carpet Museum. Or make your way to the Highland Park to soak in picturesque views of the city, its lights twinkling away in the distance. There’s joy in the details in Baku, in the bustling bylanes, rich culture, and scenic landscapes. And it’s the perfect reminder to feel alive again. ■ 157
FLASH
Bazaar
(From left) Fardeen Bhangara, Jason Arland, and Leon Vaz
Riya Jain Pryanca Talukdar
Divya Jadhav
Aashna Shroff
Juhi Godambe
Dino Morea
P
A
I
N
T
T
H
E
(From left) Francisco Aciole, María Fernanda Oliveros Diaz, Summer Jacobs, Sercan Utkan, Alex, and Arya Bendkhale
T OW N R E D Bazaar and Carolina Herrera host a party for the brand’s latest scent We celebrated the launch of Carolina Herrera’s newest cologne, Bad Boy, at Thirsty City 127 in Lower Parel, Mumbai.The party,which began in the evening and went on till the early hours of the morning, embraced the fragrance’s theme of rebellion.The décor featured a colonialstyle library, selfie room, and neon signs which displayed the hashtag #goodtobebad.The oriental fragrance,which Carolina Herrera de Báez formulated with the help of perfumers Quentin Bisch and Louise Turner, evokes the duality of both a strong and sensitive man and is complemented by a lightning bolt-shaped bottle.Notes of sage, green bergamot, pepper, amber wood, cocoa, and tonka beans were displayed, allowing visitors to discover the scent in detail. Guests included a host of celebrities, influencers, models, and socialites including Dino Morea, Lopamudra Raut,Gautam Gulati,Aishwarya Nair Matthew, Riya Jain,Aashna Shroff, and Rohan Hingorani. ■
Maia Sethna Malhotra Tonya Kampani, Nonita Kalra, and Jatin Kampani
The food spread at the event
Prashish More
Gautam Gulati
(From left) Farhan Chaudhary, Aditya Grover, Chandru Rajasekharan, Loren Guevara, Bhawna Srivastava, Biju Kassim, and Rehan Sayed
Rohan Hingorani, Aman Bhavani, and Rashmi Zurail Mann
(From left) Rohit Khandelwal, Prathamesh Maulingkar, and Varun Verma Nibedita Karmakar and Nitinn R Miranni Aman Khanna, KrĂŠsha Bajaj Zaveri, and Riddhika Jesrani
Butool Jamal and Mohan Neelakantan
Lopamudra Raut
PHOTOGRAPHER: MOHIT VARU
Alice Rosario and Palak Suresh Gupta
Aishwarya Nair Matthew
Vivan Bhathena, Divya Palat, and Aditya Hitkari
Masoom Minawala Mehta
WHERE TO BUY A Agrajain www.agrajjain.com AKHL Delhi (075069
Wijnants www.christianwijnants.com Coach Delhi
67917) Alaïa at net-a-porter.com Alena Ahkmadullina
(011 4927 0626) Mumbai (022 4973 1460)
Alexander McQueen
www.alexandermcqueen.com Alexandre Vauthier www.alexandrevauthier.com
Alia Mouzannar
@
aliamouzannar AM:PM www.ampm.in Andersson Bell
www.anderssonbell.com
Aquazzura
at
matchesfashion.com Atsu www.atsu.in A-W-A-K-E MODE at matchesfashion.com B Bally Delhi (011 4986 5747) Biologique Recherche www.biologiquerecherche.com Bloni Delhi (078384 10413) BODICE Delhi (096500 71122) Borsalino at farfetch.com Bottega Veneta Delhi (011 4609 8262)
D Dhruv Kapoor Haryana (0124 423 5266) DiaColor Delhi (011 4141 4100) Mumbai (022 4347 3774) Diane von Furstenberg www.world.dvf.com Dior Delhi (011 4600 5900) Mumbai (022 6749 9091) Dinosaur Designs www.dinosaurdesigns.com.au Dundas at matchesfashion.com E Eres at
net-a-porter.com
Essé www.esse.com
Estée Lauder Delhi (011 4615 1752) Mumbai (022 4347 3773) Etro at net-a-porter.com Ettika www.ettika.com Eugenia Kim at net-a-porter.com
Mumbai (022 6615 2291) Bulgari Delhi (011 4053 8620)
F Fabergé www.faberge.com Fendi Delhi (011 4604
Burberry Delhi (011 4143 7610) Mumbai (022 4080 1994)
0777) Mumbai (022 2640 2831)
C Carolina Herrera at Nykaa Luxe, Delhi (011 2687
G Gauri & Nainika Delhi (011 4105 5416) Gehna Jewellers
1103) Carrie K. www.carriekrocks.com Cartier High
www.gehnaindia.com Gianvito Rossi at matchesfashion.
Jewelry Delhi (011 4678 8888) Celine www.celine.
com Giuliva Heritage Collection at matchesfashion.com
com Chanel Delhi (011 4111 6840) Mumbai (022 4004
Givenchy www.givenchy.com Goenka India Mumbai
8534) Chloé www.chloe.com Christian Louboutin
(022 2665 3616) Gucci Delhi (011 4647 1111) Mumbai (022
Delhi (011 4101 7111) Mumbai (022 4347 1787) Christian
6749 9491) Guerlain at nykaa.com
160
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Aventador S watch, price upon request.
IMAGE: COURTESY THE BRAND
www.alenaahkmadullina.ru
H H&M Delhi (011 4601 5381) Mumbai (022 3095 2103)
(011 2687 1100) Peter Pilotto at matchesfashion.com
Delhi
3333)
Polo Ralph Lauren at farfetch.com Preen Line at
Her Story www.herstory.design Hermès Delhi (011
matchesfashion.com Pretiós www.pretiosjewels.com
Hazoorilal
Legacy
(011
4873
2688 5501) Mumbai (022 2271 7400) House of Lafayette at matchesfashion.com Hunting Season at matchesfashion.com
R Rajesh Pratap Singh Delhi (011 2464 4727) Mumbai (022 2283 3576) Ralph Lauren Delhi (011 4205 8323) Raniwala 1881 www.raniwalajewellers.com Rara Avis
I Isabel Marant at matchesfashion.com
Delhi (098108 40487) Rimzim Dadu Delhi (099715
J Jennifer Behr at farfetch.com Jessica McCormack www.jessicamccormack.com Jet Gems Mumbai (099200
48014) Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna Delhi (011 4663 2636) Ruslan Baginskiy at farfetch.com
75538) Jimmy Choo Delhi (011 4660 9069) Mumbai (022
S Saint Laurent at net-a-porter.com Sameer Madan
6615 2293) Joseph at matchesfashion.com
Delhi (011 4509 2749) Self-Portrait at farfetch.com
K Kama Ayurveda Delhi (011 2465 4886) Mumbai (022 2640 1040) Kate Spade New York Delhi (011 4079 3371)
Shiseido at
nykaa.com
Siddartha Tytler Delhi
(098100 22270) Sisley at Sephora, Delhi (011 4151 8371) Mumbai (022 4004 5180) SNIDEL www.snidel.
Kérastase at sephora.com KoAi www.koai.in
us Staud at matchesfashion.com Suket Dhir Delhi L Label Ritu Kumar Delhi (011 4160 4182) Mumbai (022
6666
9901)
lalagebeaumont.com
Lalage
Beaumont
www.
Lock & Co Hatters www.
(084476 56660) Swarovski Delhi (011 4053 4580) Mumbai (022 4971 4555) Salvatore Ferragamo Delhi (011 4660 90820 Mumbai (022 6634 5886)
lockhatters.co.uk Lola Hats www.lolahats.com Louis Vuitton Delhi (011 4669 0000) Lovebirds Delhi
T The House of ROSE Delhi (011 4606 0953) Mumbai (022 2368 5287) Tiffany & Co. www.tiffany.com
(083840 799157)
Tissot at ethoswatches.com Tom Ford Beauty at M MADISON Delhi (011 4500 5218) Mumbai (022 2354 0505) Maison Rabih Kayrouz at matchesfashion.com
Sephora, Delhi (011 4151 8371) Mumbai (022 4004 5180) Truffle Collection Delhi (011 4132 5389)
Malone Souliers at matchesfashion.com Manolo Blahnik www.manoloblahnik.com Mansur Gavriel at farfetch.com Marc Cross
at matchesfashion.com
Massimo Dutti Delhi (011 4214 8065) Mumbai (022 6237
0732)
Max Mara at
matchesfashion.com
MICHAEL Michael Kors Delhi (011 4056 3703)
V VAK Jewellery www.vakjewellery.com Valentino www.valentino.com
Van Cleef & Arpels www.
vancleefarpels.com Victoria Beckham international. victoriabeckham.com
Victoria
Hayes
www.
victoriahayesnyc.com
Mumbai (022 4004 8040) Mirari Delhi (098100
Z Zana Bayne www.zanabayne.com Zoya - A Tata
06000) MISHO www.mishodesigns.com Mulberry
Product Delhi (011 4045 0149) Mumbai (022 4063
www.mulberry.com
6100) ■
N
Natasha
Zinko
at
matchesfashion.com
Nomada @nomada_accessories Notebook www. thenotebookstudio.com P Pankaj & Nidhi Delhi (011 2086 0107) Mumbai (022 2351 7467) Paule Ka www.pauleka.com Perona Delhi
NOTE: The December 2019 issue referred to Rahul Akerkar as the chef and restaurateur of Indigo and Qualia, Mumbai. He is the founder and managing partner of Qualia Hospitality, LLP. The error is regretted.
161
BAZAAR
How
P H E N O M E N A L
W O M E N
For Bazaar, progress has always been defined by women In February 1939, America eagerly awaited the upcoming World’s Fair in New York. Great Depression. And the fair’s Modernist structure—the 610-ft spire-shaped Trylon, together with an enormous sphere, Persiphere—became its central motif, attracting immense publicity. But at Bazaar, Frenchman A.M. Cassandre’s brush didn’t simply reproduce the structure. In his distinctive surrealist style, the Trylon and Persiphere resemble a boat, and colourful strokes of wind propel the sails into the future. Below, the issue name reads, ‘The Girl of Tomorrow’. If the structure represented the vision of a prosperous, post-Depression America, Bazaar’s cover offers an incisive intervention—the world of tomorrow needs its women.We now head towards a new decade, the 2020s, bearing this very belief.The women on our covers and in our pages—all strong, passionate, and brave—represent the Modern.The Tomorrow. ■ The February 1939 cover of Harper’s Bazaar US 162
BAZAAR US FEBRUARY 1939 COVER ILLUSTRATED BY A.M. CASSANDRE
‘The World of Tomorrow’, as was its theme, symbolised the country’s rise from the