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WELCOME TO ITALIA!

Benvenuti...

It’s February, which can mean only one thing in Italy – Carnevale. Cities and towns all over the country are lit up with lively events and celebrations, usually involving costumes or brightly decorated processions. Italy is definitely the place to be this month, and you can get the flavour of what’s going on in our news section. Elsewhere in the magazine, we visit the magical island of Capri, a real summer hotspot, but did you know it has a flourishing artistic side as well? Take a guided tour with writer Laura Thayer to discover the delights for yourself. We take a look at Venice through the photographer’s lens, with a masterclass of easy techniques to get the perfect shots from your next visit. The expert chocolatiers of Modica are also in the spotlight on a trip to eastern Sicily, as is a peaceful getaway at an elegant bolthole in southern Tuscany, and a hiking holiday in remote Abruzzo. From dreamy chocolate desserts for Valentine’s Day (or any other day, of course) to hearty fare from Aosta and garlic-infused recipes, there’s plenty going on in our Italian kitchen. So mix yourself a classic Italian cocktail inspired by James Bond or pour a glass of wine from Le Marche, help yourself to a handpicked grissino (or three!), and settle back to enjoy this new issue of Italia! ON THE COVER Until next time, Marina Grande, Capri

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Picturesque Ragusa Ibla in eastern Sicily, on page 56

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THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS Join us on FACEBOOK, search for Italia! magazine Follow us on TWITTER at @ItaliaMag Find us on INSTAGRAM at @italia_magazine

LAURA THAYER has lived in the town of Amalﬁ for many years and took a special trip over to the island of Capri for this feature. Away from the tourist traps, Laura discovers a host of creative islanders inspired by their wonderful surroundings. Read about her encounters with the makers and artists of Capri, and their creations, on page 22.

FLEUR KINSON This month our property expert is in the sunny southern region of Puglia, the elegant high heel of Italy’s boot and home to those curious coned trulli. The arrival of budget airlines really opened up the area to visitors and homebuyers alike, and the local property market is still very buoyant. Turn to page 84 to ﬁnd out more.

JOE GARTMAN Our resident historian and storyteller travels to a hunting lodge at Stupinigi, outside Turin, this month – and it is not as modest as its name suggests. Turns out it was a no-expense-spared pleasure palace built for Victor Amadeus, Duke of Savoy, in the 18th century, and is extravagantly ﬁlled with artistic treasures. See more on page 29.

February 2020 ITALIA! 3

UK DD orders only

This image by Adam Batterbee Cover image © Getty Images Inset cover image © L’Andana

Amanda Robinson Editor

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IN THISFebruary ISSUE 2020 29

HOLIDAYS

FOOD & DRINK

22 48 HOURS ON CAPRI Laura Thayer delves into the artistic side of Capri to discover why this photogenic island is more than just a pretty face.

62 COOKING WITH GARLIC Jenny Linford presents recipes using classic ingredients – and plenty of garlic.

34 OFF-GRID IN ABRUZZO Mark Nicholls savours the pleasures of the unspoilt national parks of Abruzzo. 52 SOUTHERN BELLE Relax in style at L’Andana Resort, a Medici villa overlooking the Maremma landscape.

56 SICILY’S SWEET SPOT Mary Novakovich explores Sicily’s Val di Noto and Modica, Italy’s capital of chocolate.

CULTURE 29 FAST CULTURE Joe Gartman visits the pleasure palace built for Victor Amadeus, Duke of Savoy. 40 SPEAK ITALIA! Tom Alberto Bull reports on how Italy is attempting to tackle climate change. 44 VENICE THROUGH A LENS Sara Scarpa and Iain Reid take us on a photography tour of La Serenissima.

4 ITALIA! February 2020

66 TASTES OF AOSTA Mario Matassa leads us into the world of Aostan cuisine. 71 FOUR TAKES ON CHOCOLATE Spoil yourself with these indulgent chocolate desserts and bakes for Valentine’s Day. 74 BUY ITALIA! Italian grissini. 76 SHAKEN AND STIRRED Classic Italian James Bond cocktails mixed for us by Katherine Bebo. 79 DRINK ITALIA! Wines from Le Marche.

PROPERTY 84 HOMES IN PUGLIA Italy’s high heel offers fabulous weather, endless seaside, striking architecture and stunning food, writes Fleur Kinson. 94 PROPERTY SHOWCASE The latest house-buying opportunities.

IN THIS ISSUE

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LA MAREMMA

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MORE ITALIA! 8 NEWS & VIEWS Catch up with all the hottest stories from and about Italy. 14 READERS’ PHOTO COMPETITION Send us your travel photos and win a bottle of premium Villa Sandi prosecco! 16 IN PRINT The latest books. 17 TOP 5 EVENTS What to see and do in Italy this month. 18 TOP PICKS The best Italian products to reach the market. 20 VIEWPOINT Ice cream doesn’t come better than Italian gelato – and the world of ice cream doesn’t get bigger than the annual showcase at Rimini.

ON THE COVER 32 SUBSCRIBE TO ITALIA! Save money with this month’s great subscription offer – pay just £10.99 every three months by UK Direct Debit, for a saving of 27% on the cover price! 42 PAST ITALIA! The Fréjus Road Tunnel is now more important, but the Mont Blanc Tunnel will always be more iconic. 93 NEXT MONTH Find out what’s coming up in the March issue. 98 ITALIA! HERITAGE No. 4: Val d’Orcia Just south of the hills of Siena, stretching to the dormant volcano of Monte Amiata, is the Tuscan region of Val d’Orcia.

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February 2020 ITALIA! 5

Stay connected!

ITALIA!

Keep in touch all month long with Italia! magazine – updates, news, features, recipes and much more from your favourite magazine online

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CONTRIBUTORS Katherine Bebo, Tom Alberto Bull, Joe Gartman, Fleur Kinson, Jenny Linford, Elisabeth Mackenzie, Mario Matassa, Mark Nicholls, Mary Novakovich, Jenny Oldaker, Sara Scarpa & Iain Reid, Franz Sidney, Laura Thayer PUBLISHER Sally FitzGerald sally.ﬁtzgerald@anthem-publishing.com ADVERTISING MANAGER Adrian Major adrian@majormediasales.com PRODUCTION MANAGER Brian Hook brian.hook@anthem-publishing.com MARKETING MANAGER Gemma Bailey gemma.bailey@anthem-publishing.com CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jenny Cook jenny.cook@anthem-publishing.com MANAGING DIRECTOR Simon Lewis simon.lewis@anthem-publishing.com CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Jon Bickley jon.bickley@anthem-publishing.com

Visit our website for Italian holiday inspiration, delicious food and wine features and to discover new properties for sale throughout Italy

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THIS MONTH News, events, the latest book releases, your travel photos – we bring you the best of Italy in our February round-up

February is carnival month all over Italy – ﬁnd out more on pages 12 and 17

News & Views What’s been happening in Italy

p8 Readers’ Photos Our pick of your Italian snaps

p14 In Print Image © Giovanni Fregni, Cento Carnevale d’Europa

The latest good reads

p16 What’s on in February The best events and festivals

p17 Top Picks Shop new Italian products

p18 February 2020 ITALIA! 7

FEBRUARY ITALIA!

Lights, camera, action!

Views

Exciting news from Rome for film fans… The city’s famous Cinecittà Studios has just opened a museum dedicated to all things audiovisual, with exhibits spanning the spectrum of moving images in applications ranging from Italian cinema to video games. The Museo Italiano dell’Audiovisivo e del Cinema (MIAC) opened in December and explores all aspects of Italy’s screen culture, covering the history of film, television, video games – and even the new world of virtual reality. The Italian Minister for Culture, Dario Franceschini, celebrated the opening of this new attraction, praising MIAC as a “powerful and evocative installation which covers more than a century of cinema and 60 years of television in Italy.” The museum is divided into different themed areas filled with films, photos, music and interactive exhibits to engage all the senses – one of the main features is a striking and innovative Timeline that illustrates Italy’s audiovisual history. For more information go to www.cinecitta.com

Images © Cristina Vatielli_NONE collective

A new museum dedicated to the moving image has opened at Cinecittà

Image © iStock

We take a look at Italy’s Top 5 Castles 1

8 ITALIA! February 2020

Emperor Frederick II built the immaculately planned Castel del Monte near Bari in the 13th century. A masterpiece of architectural achievement, the castle’s octagonal theme is intrinsic to its design. The Italian government bought the castle in the 19th century and began the process of its restoration in the 1920s. Much loved and admired by the public today, 750 years after its conception, the magnificent Castel del Monte was named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1996.

With its stand-out iconic shape, the Castel Sant’Angelo on the bank of the Tiber River is one of Rome’s most famous landmarks. It was first commissioned by the Roman Emperor Hadrian and is now home to the National Museum of Castel Sant’Angelo.

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Matteo Garroneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pinocchio was released on 19 December 2019

You tell us... February means Valentineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day. With love in the air, we asked our Facebook gang to share their favourite romantic spots in Italyâ&#x20AC;¦ V +D 7DO CEKDJ7?D IKCC;H EH M?DJ;H >7L?D= 7 =B7II E< IEC;J>?D= D?9; M?J> 7 <;M 97DJK99? EH #EH=EDPEB7 :EB9; M?J> 9?787JJ7 Chris Benjamin-Young V Capri takes some beating. Jon Davis V )7B<7 ED /7B?D7 I?FF?D= FHEI;99E 7D: M7J9>?D= /JHEC8EB? =;DJBO 8;B9>?D= ?DJE J>; ;L;D?D= IAO Alison Hellawell of Salina The island

V Sitting on the shores of Lake Garda at sunset drinking a glass of wine. Miriam Isabel Wallace

Get your monthly fix of Italy with your favourite magazine and save money with our great deal â&#x20AC;&#x201C; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an offer you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t afford to miss! Get your issue every month, with free delivery right to your door. You pay just Â£10.99 every three months by UK Direct Debit, which is a saving of 27 per cent! Turn to page 32 for details. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re from the United States, page 51 has all the information you need.

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February 2020 ITALIA! 9

FEBRUARY ITALIA!

Going up, going down...

News & Views

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Leonardoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vineyard is back in production

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A team of experts have restored the vineyard J>7J M7I =?<J;: JE (;ED7H:E 7 2?D9? 7 =H;7J M?D; BEL;H 8O J>; KA; E< )?B7D 7I F7OC;DJ for The Last Supper, and the results of their harvest are now ready to drink. The vineyard was destroyed during the second world war, but oenologists found the remains of the EH?=?D7B )7BL7I?7 :? 7D:?7 HEC7J?97 L?D;I and replanted them. The â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;newâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; white wine has been produced according to traditional techniques likely to have been used during Leonardoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time. But donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get your hopes up about sampling a glass â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the team only made around 300 bottles, which sold at a private auction, so you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be finding it at your local off-licence any time soon. "GJ EGJ= 9:GML L@= NAF=Q9J< 9L 9K9 <=?DA L=DD9FA NAKAL OOO NA?F9<AD=GF9J<G ;GE

Online this month On every itinerary for self-respecting Grand Tourists in the 18th and 19th centuries, Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cultural and historic treasure trove, its peerless landscapes and architecture have inspired countless generations of artists, writers, and Italophiles. The FAI â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Fondo Ambiente Italiano was set up in 1975 to help preserve and promote the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s precious heritage and has branches all over the world. www.fai-international.org

V %J I J>7J J?C; 7=7?D U J>; )?9>;B?D Guide has announced its starred restaurants for 2020 and, as any Italophile might expect, Italy has fared well, with 374 restaurants included, making it second only to "H7D9; <EH ?JI DKC8;H E< )?9>;B?D

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GOING DOWN

Great balls of rice 0>; +N<EH: !D=B?I> ?9J?ED7HO >7I 7::;: 7DEJ>;H great Italian icon to its hallowed pages. Arancini â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Italian word for Sicilian rice balls fried in breadcrumbs â&#x20AC;&#x201C; is among a number of new 7::?J?EDI ?D J>?I O;7H I H;L?I?ED E< J>; +! The dictionary defines arancini as â&#x20AC;&#x153;balls of rice stuffed with a savoury filling, coated in breadcrumbs, and fried, typically served as an appetizer or snack.â&#x20AC;? The inclusion of the word in the Oxford dictionary is evidence of 7H7D9?D? I =HEM?D= FEFKB7H?JO ?D J>; 1' 7D: ;BI;M>;H; EKJI?:; %J7BO 7D: ?JI ?D9H;7I?D= prevalence on restaurant menus. %> QGM @9N=F L LJA=< 9ML@=FLA; /A;ADA9F 9J9F;AFA 9F< QGM O9FL LG K== O@9L 9DD L@= >MKK AK 9:GML L@=J= K 9 ?J=9L J=;AH= GF GMJ O=:KAL= 9L OOO AL9DQLJ9N=D9F<DA>= ;GE 9J9F;AFA

10 ITALIA! February 2020

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UK-BASED ENGLISH / ITALIAN LAW EXPERTS LEGAL SERVICES • Real Estate acquisitions in Italy • UK and Italian inheritance rules, Italian and International wills, inheritance disputes in Italy • Contractual law and legal assistance with contractual disputes • Translation of legal documents • Credit recovery Laura Protti, Italian Avvocato and English Solicitor

LEP Law Victory House 99-101 Regent Street London W1B 4EZ

+44 (0)20 7193 0290 enquiries@leplaw.co.uk www.leplaw.co.uk

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News & Views

Italia! recommends EMAIL US WITH YOUR QUESTIONS: italia@anthempublishing.com, or write to us at our usual address on page 6.

Get the party started with top tips for Carnevale in Puglia from Puglia Holiday Rentals

ASK OUR LEGAL EXPERT…

I have been advised to employ the services of a geometra for my house purchase and renovations in Abruzzo. Could you tell me what their role is, and is it a legal requirement? I would also be grateful if you could outline any other key steps we need to take from the outset of the purchase transactions. Once a property of interest has been found, some basic information and documentation must be obtained by the prospective buyers and the general terms of the purchase negotiated. Caution is advised at this stage as the foreign buyer may be asked to sign a reservation agreement (proposta d’acquisto) and pay a small deposit as a sign of serious interest in the property. It is best to seek legal advice before agreeing to this. At this stage a survey of the Italian property should be organized as well as all necessary searches with the local authorities (Comune) to check the local planning, Land Registry (Catasto) and building regulations. A local, qualified Italian surveyor (geometra) should be instructed to carry out this work and to produce a written, signed report. The geometra plays an important role in the process of buying a property in Italy. They can assess the structural state and planning conformity of the property to confirm that no illegal works have been carried out without the proper permits. They can also confirm that the property is fully consistent with the official and registry plans, which is a legal requirement upon completion. Laura Protti, LEP Law

If you’re looking for a short break, a few days in Puglia could see you immersing yourself in local celebrations and joining in the fun of Carnevale. The winter months in Puglia do not attract many tourists, but it is at this time of year when Carnevale is celebrated in the small town of Putignano, just a short distance from the more wellknown town of Alberobello.

Laura Protti is the founder of LEP Law. She is dual-qualiﬁed as an Italian avvocato and English solicitor, and specialises in assisting British and Italian clients with matters relating to Italian law. Visit her website at www.leplaw.co.uk for more information.

Sardinia to cap beach crowds First there was the controversy of tourists stealing sand… Then came Google Maps sending tourists off-road en route to the beach… Now Sardinia’s coastline is in the news again. This time it’s La Pelosa, in the northwest of the island, which has announced plans to charge entry and to put a cap on visitor numbers. The huge popularity of the beach has led to concern from local authorities about the impact of tourist numbers. From next summer an entrance fee will be in place for anyone wishing to enjoy a day sunning themselves on La Pelosa, and there will be a cap of 1,500 visitors per day. Ecologists at the nearby University of Sassari have been studying the effects of excessive visitor numbers on the local ecosystem, and the money raised from the entrance fee will go towards the monitoring and maintenance of the beach and its environs. So if you’re planning a trip to La Pelosa next year, better set your alarm clock and get there early!

Image © iStock

Visitor numbers to La Pelosa will be limited from this summer

12 ITALIA! February 2020

Carnival begins on 26 December, the day when in 1394 the relics of Saint Stephen were transferred to Putignano and saved the town from the invading Saracens. The event has been commemorated every year since then and is celebrated with a succession of rituals, traditions, parades and processions that culminate on Shrove Tuesday.

The highlight, and one of the most popular events of the carnival, occurs on the last three weekends, when people flock to see parades of giant allegorical papier-mâché floats, often reflecting political topics, accompanied by dancers and musicians. For more information, contact Puglia Holiday Rentals. www.pugliaholidayrentals.com

Images courtesy of Puglia Holiday Rentals

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THIS MONTH’S WINNER Lucy Simpson, Dullingham “My sister trying on Venetian masks on our recent trip to Venice for my mum’s 50th birthday!”

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W IN !

PR VIL OS LA ECC S O & AND BO I IL TTL FR E S ESC Ross & Lucia Willmott, Leicester TO O “Sunset at Torre del Lago looking PP ER from Puccini’s house, taken on our * holiday to Lucca, where we enjoyed the sights and sounds of Puccini.”

Anne Casazza, Freshwater, Sydney, Australia “Looking down from Anacapri over the road just travelled.”

Constantine Matsos, Burlington, Ontario, Canada “A rainy day in Taormina, Sicily.”

Shelley Blair, Carrickfergus “This photo was taken in Riccione’s town square while we were there for the Misano MotoGP.”

Hank Lisciotti, Leominster, Massachusetts, USA “A wonderful visit to a local macellaio in the tiny town of Nemi near Castel Gandolfo, south of Rome.”

Liz Atherton “Fish lunch on the Isole Tremiti.”

Thomas Grant, Lenzie, Glasgow “Sperlonga in August, simply beautiful.”

HOW TO SEND YOUR PHOTOS Please email large, high-resolution (300dpi) jpegs of your photos of Italy to italia@anthem-publishing.com or send prints to ‘Reader Photo Competition’ at the address given on page 6. Please include a brief photo description, plus your name, delivery address and a phone number (for our couriers). You must be over 18 to enter. If you don’t wish to receive details of future offers and promotions from Anthem Publishing, Villa Sandi or Bellavita, please state ‘NO INFO’ on your entry. READER OFFER London-based Bellavita specialises in premium-quality Italian food and wines, delivered from Italy right to your door. Italia! readers get a 10 per cent discount off Villa Sandi wines and all other products online at www.bellavitashop.co.uk until 1 December 2020 by entering the code ‘italia10’ at the checkout. Please note: Any photos you submit must be your own work and you must have the right to send them for inclusion on this page. By sending your entry, you are conﬁrming that Italia!’s use of your photo(s) will not constitute infringement of any rights, and conﬁrming that you are over 18.

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*Prosecco and bottle stopper delivered to mainland UK addresses only. To ﬁnd out more about Villa Sandi and Bellavita, see May 2017 issue.

Prudence Jupe “The Garfagnana region above Lucca is very different from the usual idea of Tuscany and stunning in its own way.”

FEBRUARY ITALIA!

DK Eyewitness Italy 2020

In Print absence of fancy food photography is instantly evident. Words are the imperative here, with lyrical descriptions of foodstuffs and detailed recipes for you to try yourself. The result of a whole year’s research in Italy, don’t forget that the author wrote this against a backdrop of drab post-war foodrationed Britain, where foreign food was considered, well, foreign. Not many people had heard of an aubergine, let alone seen one. And as for olive oil, you’d only get it at the pharmacy, so this book was a welcome window onto a world of colour and flavour. Elizabeth David writes with passion and authority on the wealth of ingredients and regional culinary diversity. So much so that you will find more than one recipe for the same ingredient – artichoke, for example, features in 14 different recipes in the book, each one from a different region. Utterly timeless, this book is a masterpiece you need on your bookshelf.

Italian Food Elizabeth David, Grub Street, £14.99 (hardback) Elizabeth David was a prolific food writer who inspired generations of chefs and home cooks with her evocative books on French and Italian food. This splendid reprint of Italian Food, originally published in 1954, is a fascinating read and a real insight into the authentic roots of Italian cucina. It’s a modest volume, and the

DK Publishing, £16.99 (paperback) Whether you’re planning a longer trip, a quick getaway or just a spot of armchair travelling to Italy in 2020, this new edition of the DK Eyewitness guide to our favourite country has everything you need within its pages. Yes, you can surf away for hours on all sorts of websites to get the information you need for your trip, but here is a compendium of expert advice to help you plan your own bespoke itineraries. Every region is covered in depth, with cultural highlights, natural wonders, must-see sights and hidden treasures, as well as places to stay and eat. With maps and beautiful colour imagery, this new guide will take your travel plans to the next level. Don’t leave home without it.

Salt & Pepper Valerie AikmanSmith, Ryland Peters & Small, £9.99, (hardback) Two of the most popular and iconic seasonings in the world, salt and pepper, are the stars of this beautiful book by Valerie Aikman-Smith. It’s not as one-dimensional as you might think, as we are introduced to a wealth of variations on the salt and pepper theme, from French fleur de sel to the exotic-sounding Indonesian Lampong pepper. Discover sublime seasonings, some you’ve probably never heard of before, in

My favourite view in Italy Val d’Orcia, Tuscany Sometimes you see a vista so beautiful you know you will carry it with you always. I was recently at Borgo Pignano in the hills near Volterra, and it was love at ﬁrst sight. The colours of the view constantly changed under the broad Tuscan sky – and the sunsets… Heavenly!

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Images by Amanda Robinson

AMANDA ROBINSON, ITALIA! EDITOR

Sunset over the Tuscan hills

Gino D’Acampo, Hodder, £20, (hardback) One of the UK’s favourite TV chefs, Gino D’Acampo has recently returned to our screens with a series called Gino’s Italian Express. Exploring northern Italy by rail, he breaks his journey in beautifully iconic places like Verona and the Cinque Terre, Florence and Lake Garda. Along the way, he meets the locals and enjoys their hospitality in his inimitable style. This book is packed with quick and easy (‘express’) regional recipes that reflect the places he visits. Divided into chapters for each course of the meal, you’ll find mouthwatering dishes like Grilled asparagus with a poached egg, from Lucca, and Vitello alla milanese and Lemon tiramisù, from Cinque Terre, that you can rustle up with the minimum of fuss. With inspiring photography – of the delicious plates of food and also of the destinations he visits – this book is parttravelogue, part-recipe book. It is sure to whet your appetite and inspire your wanderlust.

The ever-changing sky and Volterra in the distance

The CARNIVAL OF VIAREGGIO in Tuscany is a real spectacle. Colourful parades fill the streets during each weekend in February, and floats are adorned with giant, often very elaborate, papier-mâché puppets. It’s a hugely atmospheric cultural event and joining the throng makes for a marvellous experience. 1-25 February, viareggio.ilcarnevale.com

There’s a reason VENICE CARNIVAL is so famous. For more than half the month the city is taken over by the most incredible costumes (and masks!), performances, parades and shows. It’s a feast for the senses and offers a unique adventure that’s pure bucket-list material. 8-25 February, www.carnevale.venezia.it

Head for Fano in Le Marche on the last three Sundays of the month and you’ll discover another of Italy’s very best (and oldest) carnivals in action. From a parade and music to illuminations and fireworks, the CARNIVAL OF FANO is lesser-known but well worth the trip. 9-23 February, www.carnevaledifano.com

For an event that’s no less spectacular than the big-hitters like Venice and Viareggio, we’d recommend CENTO CARNIVAL in EmiliaRomagna. Here you’ll find less tourist hordes but a suitably spectacular celebration and party atmosphere. Each Sunday sees a fantastic parade take to the streets, and sweets and toys are thrown into the crowd. Sundays from 9 February – 8 March, www.carnevalecento.com

If you like your carnivals with a side order of food fight, then the CARNIVAL OF IVREA is for you. This festival (also known as ‘The Battle of the Oranges’) recalls a 12th-century victory for the peasants against their tyrannical rulers. It takes the form of a city-wide orange fight. Tourists can join in too (but have to pay) – or, if you don’t fancy the bruises and orange stains, there are safe spaces where you can watch events unfold. Various dates, 6 January – 26 February, www.storicocarnevaleivrea.it

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Image © iStock

Gino’s Italian Express

Our Top 5 Carnivals

Image © Cento Carnevale d_Europa

more than 70 delicious recipes, all beautifully photographed to inspire you in the kitchen. Packed with recipes for all sorts of dishes, from small bites, main plates and sides to drinks, preserves and brines, savoury rubs, infused oils and even sweet treats, this is a glorious celebration of world food and the seasonings that unite us. And Italy is well represented with dishes like Peppered panroasted olives, Lemon pepper ricotta gnocchi and Peppered pistachio nut brittle.

FEBRUARY ITALIA!

TopPicks Our regular shopping round-up has the latest Italian accessories and inspiration for home & away BOX OF DELIGHTS Ottomans and poufs from Milan designer Lorenza Bozzoli, from £980, www. lorenzabozzolicouture.com

WORD UP Typographic print of Venice, £28, www. notonthehighstreet .com

PEARLY WHITES Eco-friendly bamboo adult toothbrushes by Brushd, £3.90 each, www.wearthlondon.com

SAUCE POTS New! Tasty pesto pots from Berio, £2.29 each, www. ﬁlippoberio.co.uk

TRAVEL CHIC Roomy and retro overnight bag, £80, www.debenhams.co.uk

THAT’S AMORE Trio of handmade hearts made from woven leaves, £14, www.lacortstore.com

ROME IN STITCHES Needlepoint city map by Hannah Bass, £79, www.notonthe highstreet.com

SAY CHEESE

GO NUTS

Bamboo cheese board with a clever drawer of knives, £24.99, www.vonshef.com

Lavolio make these chocolatecoated nuts £6, www.vorrei.co.uk

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VIEWPOINT Ice cream doesn’t come better than Italian gelato – and the world of ice cream doesn’t get bigger than the 129,000 sqm showcase at Rimini every year…

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We all know that Italians make the world’s best ice cream, but did you know that there’s a huge ice cream show in Rimini every year? (Huger even than the ice cream statues entertaining this young ragazzo in the photo here.) This year’s SIGEP – the International Trade Show of Artisan Gelato, Pastry, Bakery and the Coffee World – takes places between 18-22 January 2020, so there’s still just time to register and book your ticket. If you want to attend, you’ll find everything you need to know at www.sigep.it

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Clockwise from top left: Climb to the top of Monte Solaro for views across the island; shopping here is rarely cheap but always fun; view of the Marina Grande as you arrive; ďŹ shing boats in the Marina Grande; the turquoise sea; Eco Capri is a celebration of the work of artist Letizia Cerio; the view from Anacapri; the garden at the Villa San Michele; boat tours to the Blue Grotto

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Capri

Images by Laura Thayer

48 HOURS ON…

Laura Thayer delves into the artistic side of Capri to discover why this photogenic island is more than just a pretty face

rriving on a nearly packed ferry, surrounded by cameras and phones snapping away to capture the view, it’s impossible to underestimate the popular appeal of this tiny island off the coast of the Sorrentine peninsula, not far from Naples. This is one of the most popular travel destinations in Italy and I never expect my experience here to be a solitary one. Yet it’s precisely this enduring appeal that fascinates me, as it’s not just today’s travellers that have been drawn here: Capri has attracted visitors for as long as history can recall. While the island’s popularity may seem a modern invention, the call of Capri has deep roots. In 29 BC, for example, Octavian, soon to be the Roman emperor Augustus, arrived on Capri and was so taken by its natural beauty that he gave the island of Ischia to Naples in exchange for it. Approaching the island’s port of Marina Grande, I step outside onto the front deck of the ferry and gaze up at the sheer cliffs. It’s an imposing and captivating sight. There’s just something about this place that has always been impossible to resist. From the Marina Grande port, a funicular train leads up to Capri town. At the top, I go with the flow of people spilling out onto a terrace and stop to look up at the Torre dell’Orologio. Locals consider this bell tower with its majolica-tiled clock to be the symbol of Capri. February 2020 ITALIA! 23

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WHAT TO SEE AND DO

GIARDINI DI AUGUSTO 1 Via Matteotti 2, 80076 Capri +39 081 837 0686 These lovely gardens were created in the late 1800s by German industrialist Friedrich Alfred Krupp, who also built the impressive zig-zagging pathway nearby that leads down to the sea. The terraced gardens are planted with typical Capri and Mediterranean plants and offer a ﬁne view over the nearby Certosa di San Giacomo and to the Faraglioni rocks. €1

CERTOSA DI SAN GIACOMO 2 Via Certosa 1, 80073 Capri www.polomusealecampania .beniculturali.it Built in the late 14th century, this grand Carthusian monastery is one of the island’s most peaceful spots. The complex includes an impressive large cloister and a smaller cloister, a church with historic frescoes, and a museum dedicated to the works of German artist Karl Wilhelm Diefenbach, who lived on Capri for 12 years. €6

View over the Piazzetta, the centre of life in Capri town

The waterfront at the Marina Grande

CENTRO CAPRENSE IGNAZIO CERIO 3 Piazzetta Cerio 5, 80076 Capri www.centrocaprense.org Overlooking the Piazzetta in a 14th-century palazzo, this cultural centre is dedicated to Capri’s history. Inside you’ll ﬁnd a library and museum with an extensive collection that tells the story of the island’s natural history, including paleontological and archaeological ﬁnds. Make the effort to climb to the rooftop terrace for its views of the Piazzetta. €3 CHIESA MONUMENTALE DI SAN MICHELE

XPiazza San Nicola, 80071 Anacapri 4

www.chiesa-san-michele.com Behind the white baroque façade of this small church lies an incredibly detailed, hand-painted majolica tiled ﬂoor depicting Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden. Admire all the creatures of the garden while walking around the church ﬂoor perimeter and then climb the spiral staircase to the upper level for a full view. €2

VILLA SAN MICHELE 5 Viale Axel Munthe 34, 80071 Anacapri www.villasanmichele.eu Surrounded by an expansive garden, this villa was the home of noted Swedish writer and doctor Axel Munthe. Visit the house museum and stroll through the gardens dotted with sculptures to the overlook with a statue of a sphinx and outstanding view over Capri and the Gulf of Naples. The estate was willed to the Swiss government and actively promotes the interchange of writers, researchers, and artists between Switzerland and Italy. €8

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More shopping opportunities

DON’T MISS CAPRI FROM THE SEA One of the best vantage points for experiencing Capri’s natural beauty is from the sea. Whether you enjoy a private boat excursion, join a group boat tour, or even rent a boat and explore on your own, do find time to get out on the water. Laser Capri offers a group tour around the island that can be combined with a visit to the Grotta Azzurra. From €15 per person. Laser Capri +39 081 837 5208 www. lasercapri.com

Just beyond is the heart of town, the tiny yet very busy little piazza referred to as La Piazzetta. Here you’ll find pieces of all aspects of Capri life in one flamboyant jumble. Climbing a small flight of steps from the Piazzetta, I crane my neck to look up at the bright white façade of the Chiesa di Santo Stefano. Built in the late 17th century, the baroque interior is flooded with light that seems only appropriate for Capri.

archeological, paleontological and natural finds from the island. At the top of the museum is a terrace offering a bird’s eye view over the Piazzetta below. Letizia Cerio was one of Capri’s most celebrated artists. Images of her Capri swirl through my mind as I wander down Via Vittorio Emanuele, a street lined with boutiques, each more elegant than the last. This is where local

The Palazzo Cerio offers a unique glimpse into Capri’s history and artistic tradition Before leaving the church, I stop to see the marble details in the altar area that came from Roman-era villas on the island. Overlooking the Piazzetta, the Palazzo Cerio dates back to the 14th century and offers a unique glimpse into Capri’s history and artistic traditions. Inside is the Centro Caprense Ignazio Cerio, a real Capri treasure, where I like to peer into the display cases holding

traditions, such as the making of handmade sandals, stand alongside the biggest names in international fashion. Yet on this occasion I am heading in a different direction for a moment of calm and reflection at the Certosa di San Giacomo. QUIET MOMENTS IN CAPRI Built in the 14th century as a Carthusian monastery, the church’s cloisters and long corridors have

The Museo Diefenbach at the Certosa

The Faraglioni from Giardini di Agosto

long been silent. In the grand cloister, time seems to stand still. Before leaving, I spend a moment taking in the tumultuous scenes of the German painter Karl Wilhelm Diefenbach (1851-1913). Arriving on Capri in 1901, Diefenbach stayed here, painting scenes often inspired by Capri’s beauty, until his death in 1913. These grand, stark white rooms are the perfect setting to admire the large scale of the often dark paintings of Diefenbach before

Salvatore Federico in his gallery

La Certosa di San Giacomo, a chance for quiet and reﬂection

stepping back out into the bright and airy bougainvillea-hued streets of Capri. Next I follow the signs leading to the Giardini di Augusto, the Gardens of Augustus. While the gardens never actually belonged to the Roman emperor, it’s hard to imagine that he wouldn’t have enjoyed them, or the picture-perfect views of the Faraglioni they afford. The Faraglioni are the formation of three rocks jutting out of the sea, with a hole through the central rock Shade in the garden at Villa San Michele

DON’T MISS

where boats cruise through. I watch them come and go as I dodge in and out of the way of photos. (Of course, though it may be quiet here, you won’t be the only one with the idea of stopping for photos.) I peer over the edge of the terrace down to the zig-zag Via Krupp, a scenic walkway (now closed) that leads down to the tempting turquoise sea below. But I’ve set my sights high and am off to the island’s other town. ARTISTIC ANACAPRI To delve a little deeper into Capri’s historic and artistic side, I’m heading to the higher part on the island’s western side to the town called Anacapri. I set off first for Villa San Michele, once the home of the Swiss doctor and writer Axel Munthe (1857-1949). His home has been transformed into a museum where I read more about his life and work before stepping out into the gardens. A pergola-covered pathway leads to a tiny lookout point with a spectacular view over Marina Grande below

LA GROTTA AZZURRA The Blue Grotto is one of Capri’s most popular sights. The experience of being whisked inside on a small rowing boat and seeing the electric blue water is an exhilarating one. Be prepared for a long wait and a high ticket price. The entrance is small and access is dependent on the weather and sea conditions. Motoscafisti di Capri +39 081 837 5646 www. motoscafisti capri.com €14 entrance, boat transfer from €15 per person.

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WHERE TO STAY

HOTEL LUNA 5 Viale Giacomo Matteotti 3, 80073 Capri www.lunahotel.com In the centre of Capri, near the Giardini di Augusto and the Certosa di San Giacomo. Splurge for a Deluxe room to enjoy views of the Faraglioni from your own terrace.

HOTEL CANASTA 7 Via Campo di Teste 6, 80076 Capri www.hotelcanastacapri.it This 15-room boutique hotel has recently been remodelled and features a blend of classic décor and crisp design. To enjoy a sea view, go for one of the Superior rooms.

CASA MARIANTONIA 8 Via Giuseppe Orlandi 180, 80071 Anacapri www.casamariantonia.com Just a short stroll from Anacapri’s main sights, this lovely hotel offers comfortably furnished rooms set among a lemon grove.

with the Sorrentine peninsula just beyond and Mount Vesuvius looming across the Gulf of Naples. Just a few steps away from Villa San Michele, Salvatore Federico has a gallery (Via Capodimonte 58, Anacapri) of his paintings and drawings. Born on Capri, he started painting when he was only seven years old. Even after a lifetime spent capturing the island from all

The tradition of ceramics on the island isn’t just for the history books

IL GIARDINO DELL’ ARTE 9 Traversa la Vigna 32b, 80071 Anacapri www.giardinocapri.com This charming B&B has a decidedly artistic atmosphere throughout its ﬁve bright and beautifully decorated rooms. Each has a terrace and views over the Gulf of Naples.

J.K. PLACE CAPRI 10 Via Marina Grande 225, 80076 Capri www.jkcapri.com Exquisite taste and ﬁne views come together at this luxury property overlooking the Marina Grande. Considered to be one of Capri’s ﬁnest addresses.

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angles and in all seasons, he is still continually searching for the next moment of inspiration. My next stop is to see one of the island’s artistic gems. While the Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo is not a large church, inside is a majolica-tiled floor completely covered with an ornate scene of Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden. Created in 1761 by Leonardo

La Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo

Chiaiese, a master ceramic artist from Naples, it’s fascinating to walk around the viewing platform along the edges (you can’t walk on the tiles!) and get lost in the scene jampacked with creatures – including some intriguing 18th-century interpretations of exotic animals. The tradition of ceramics on the island isn’t just for the history books. I stop in Ceramiche Tavassi (Via Giuseppe Orlandi 129, Anacapri), where Gennaro Tavassi is at work painting at his studio in the back of the shop. I stop to admire the scene he’s painting of a garden pergola and to chat about his designs and the Capri that inspires them. Inscribed above his

DON’T MISS MONTE SOLARO At 598 metres, the peak of Monte Solaro is Capri’s highest point and the view from the top cannot be beaten. From here you can see all over the island and even enjoy a fine view of the Sorrentine peninsula and the Gulf of Naples. Capri Seggiovia runs a chairlift connecting Anacapri with the summit for €11, round trip. Seggiovia Monte Solaro, Via Caposcuro, 10, Anacapri +39 081 837 1438 www.capri seggiovia.it

The Eco Capri store

Capri Shopping Located in what was once the stable area for the Palazzo Cerio is one of Capri’s most unique stores. Inside Eco Capri, the history and artistic style of the island come together to celebrate the work of Letizia Cerio, one of Capri’s most captivating artists. Her creative designs, many of them inspired by things she saw on the island, are the basis for Eco Capri’s custom line of clothing, accessories, and home décor – all of it imagined and brought to life by her grandson, Federico Alvarez de Toledo. Her original artwork on display in the store offers a special glimpse of the source of inspiration behind the beautifully crafted pieces. While you can catch the sweet scent of the Carthusia perfume stores in many places around Capri, I always make time to visit their factory. Local legend has it that the first perfume to be created here was inspired by the nearby Certosa di San Giacomo, when a special bouquet of flowers given to the visiting Queen Giovanna d’Angiò in the 14th century created a sweetly infused scent. Today the production of perfumes, soaps, and home scents all takes place on Capri, with the island’s many distinctive native plants inspiring the line of fragrances.

Carthusia perfume stores

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WHERE TO EAT

RISTORANTE MICHEL’ANGELO 11 Via Sella Orta 10, 80073 Capri www.caprimichelangelo.com Located near the Piazzetta, this is the spot to enjoy classic Capri dishes in a friendly setting. Capri local Gianluca D’Esposito and his Australian-born wife Holly Star are behind the magic here, from pasta made fresh daily to the excellent wine list. You’ll want to visit more than once to try the pasta specialties, the wood ﬁre oven cooked pizza, the Mozzarella Bar, and so much more. Or enjoy a cooking class with Gianluca and Holly to learn how to recreate iconic Capri recipes at home!

Gennaro Tavassi creating ceramics in his workshop

Riding the Monte Solaro chairlift

This is the easy way to get to the top

€O € O

PESCHERIA LE BOTTEGHE 12 Via le Botteghe 19, 80076 Capri www.pescherialebotteghe.it This busy ﬁsh shop in the morning transforms into a dining spot for lunch and dinner with a casual bar-style setting. Of course, the freshest ﬁsh is guaranteed! A great spot near the Piazzetta to enjoy oysters or try their crudo di pesce (raw seafood) selection. €O € O

VILLA MARGHERITA 13 Via Campo di Teste 4, 80073 Capri www.ristorantevillamargheritacapri.com Set in a quiet area in Capri with an outdoor dining area below the olive trees, this restaurant is an excellent choice for lunch or dinner. Start with the grilled octopus served over an orange infused salad and follow with the house speciality of fettucine with red shrimp and lemon.

workspace is a saying that in part reads: “When you buy something from an artist, you’re not buying just one thing. You are buying a piece of a heart, a piece of a soul – a small piece of some else’s life.” When I look around Ceramiche Tavassi, I see ceramics inspired by a deep love of Capri. Before leaving Capri, I have to visit the island’s most panoramic spot. The Seggiovia Monte Solaro

€O € O

LA ZAGARA 14 Via Giuseppe Orlandi 180, 80071 Anacapri www.casamariantonia.com Dine among a lemon grove at this peaceful spot at the Casa Mariantonia. With the fresh scent of lemon in the air, this is a dreamy setting for enjoying classic Mediterranean ﬂavours from the menu that is well balanced with seafood and meat options. The La Zagara wine bar is a good choice for local wine and charcuterie.

€ O

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THE VIEW FROM THE TOP The beauty is quite intoxicating. Yet, as I look down over the island below, what strikes me most about Capri are the stories. These stories are a blend of the people who live here, the people who visit here and carry a piece of it with them, and

The sun bakes the pine trees and the sounds of Capri fall away behind

€O € O

CAPRI ROOFTOP 150 Viale Giacomo Matteotti 7, 80073 Capri www.caprirooftop.com With the same ﬁne views of the Faraglioni as the adjacent Giardini di Augusto, this rooftop bar is great for drinks during the day and is especially ﬁne as the sun sets and the Capri nightlife begins. You can’t go wrong with the menu of classic cocktails, or try their signature luna caprese drink made with limoncello, vodka, citrus and soda.

through the clear turquoise sea sparkling in the sun as sea gulls float gently in the breeze.

³ KEY TO RESTAURANT PRICES (full meal per person, not including wine) € Up to €25 O €O € €26-€50 O € €O € More than €50 OO

runs a chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro, the highest point on Capri. As the chairlift begins to climb up the mountain, I’m distracted at first by villas and gardens just below. Before long, the incline becomes steep and increasingly rugged. The sun bakes the pine trees and the sounds of Capri fall away behind. Hopping off at the top, I hurry straight to the edge and catch my breath as I lean over and look down the sheer cliff to the sea far below. Boats cut their way

the people who arrive and can never quite leave again. This, for me, is heart of Capri. Take time to listen to discover the island’s history, experience the quiet yet inspiring natural beauty that’s there just around the corner from bustling piazzas, and meet the people keeping the artistic tradition of Capri alive. Then, just maybe, you’ll see the Capri that captured my heart on my first visit 12 years ago and that keeps calling me back.

FA S T C U LT U R E

The Stag on the Rooftop

Just outside Turin stands a pleasure palace built for Victor Amadeus, Duke of Savoy, who commissioned it as a hunting lodge

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FA S T C U LT U R E

The façade of the Palazzina di caccia di Stupinigi

Palazzina di Caccia translates as Hunting Lodge, and hunting scenes decorate the walls The Great Hall is the architectural centrepiece of the palace

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Trompe l’oeil effects were all the rage here – and indeed across northwestern Italy Bordering the Great Hall are apartments for the king and queen

met was the original bronze ornament of the dome, cast in 1766, who had been relieved of his duty a few years ago by a copy. Our host left. From the stag’s small chamber a staircase led upward, and we found ourselves apparently quite alone in a vast 18th-century royal pleasure palace of 137 rooms and 17 galleries, lavishly decorated in the very best late Baroque and early Rococo style. We walked down a long gallery lined with hunting trophies and ornate candle-holders and found ourselves in a room whose walls were, collectively, a huge oil painting of a deer hunt, with scenes separated by gilded wood mouldings, under a vaulted ceiling frescoed with Apollo slaying a dragon. But beyond the next door was the architectural centrepiece of the lodge. The Great Hall is a soaring elliptical room bordered by apartments for the king and queen, with two other openings into galleries leading throughout the lodge. The enormous fresco in the main vault of the dome appropriately features Diana the Huntress, while the complicated structure of the rest of the ceiling – soffits, lunettes, pendentives – have romping putti, nymphs hunting peacocks and miles of gilded wood and plaster work.

The stag on the roof was backlit by the setting sun Patricia wandered off happily with her camera and I spent several hours hiking the hallways. From time to time I would see a faraway figure crossing a corridor or ducking into an unknown room. There were canopied boudoirs, chinoiserie rooms, game rooms, a room with painted trompe l’oeil mirrors “reflecting” ancient ruins, and dozens more. Pauline Bonaparte’s bathroom, with a specially made marble tub, was a souvenir of another time when the Savoy lost control of their territory. (They got it back, though, after Waterloo.) I met Patricia back in the Great Hall. A fellow in orange trousers was there, apparently guiding a trio of tourists. For some reason, I felt rather aggrieved that he’d invaded our privacy. As we headed to the bus stop, the day’s light was fading. The sky was overcast, and the stag on the roof was backlit where the setting sun pierced the clouds. I thought of the pettiness of rulers who would expend so much of their people’s resources on something so beautiful and so useless, but then I remembered that during the Risorgimento, when Italy needed a king to help unify the country, Victor Emanuel II of Savoy, King of Sardinia, was there – ready, willing, and able.

ABOUT THE WRITER JOE GARTMAN writes about travel, history and culture, and divides his time between the southwest US and Europe. Learn more at www.joegartman.com

February 2020 ITALIA! 31

Images by Patricia Gartman unless otherwise stated

t all started with Humbert the White-Handed. I don’t know how he got his nickname, but I’d guess that his hands, though white, weren’t exactly clean. He was a supporter of the Holy Roman Emperor Conrad II, back in the 11th century, and, as a reward for helping Conrad grab a lot of territory from the Archbishop of Milan, he was named Count of Savoy and given the counties of Maurienne and Aosta to rule. The latter gave him effective control of several key mountain passes in the Alps, so he could extort tariffs on goods travelling to and from the Italian peninsula. His descendants formed what is known as the House of Savoy. Over the following centuries, the Savoyard rulers were wily and persistent enough to survive the constant European territorial struggles – usually involving disputes between France and Spain, the Holy Roman Empire and occasionally England. Though they lost most or all of their territory a few times, they managed to ultimately regain, and even increase, their dominions by picking the right combatants to support. In 1563, Emanuel Philibert, then Duke of Savoy, moved the seat of his court from Chambéry to Turin, and in the following centuries the Savoy rulers turned their new capital into a truly regal city. They built an enormous Royal Palace and Garden, a Royal Library and a Royal Armoury. They built a Royal Theatre. They built a State Secretariat. They built a Military Academy, a Riding School, and, to pay for it all, they built a Mint. Then, to relieve the stress of running an absolute monarchy, they built several pleasure palaces, known as delizie, around the outskirts of Turin. In 1729, construction began on the most famous of them, built for the Savoy ruler at the time, Victor Amadeus. (Victor had recently been promoted from Duke to King. How and why this happened is a long story, but it involved the War of Spanish Succession and the Treaty of Utrecht, if you’re interested. He became King of Sicily, which is inconvenient when your capital is Turin, and he soon traded Sicily for Sardinia, a slight improvement.) His little getaway is a hunting lodge called the Palazzina di caccia di Stupinigi. We were curious, so we took a bus, one grey morning, from Turin out to Stupinigi. There was slushy snow in the parking lot where the bus stopped. A kind lady on the bus told us to watch out for ice and to continue sempre dritto to the palazzina – “bellissima e molto famosa!” she said. The palace is fronted by an enormous lawn, with a trident of gravelled paths through it. Snow covered the grass but had melted into slush on the pathways. On either side were the long wings of the palace. Ahead, a great copper dome crowned the central pile and, at the very top, the figure of a noble stag was silhouetted against the sky. We found the ticket office and then, proceeding inside, suddenly came face to face with the stag’s twin, standing nonchalantly as if waiting to check our tickets. An affable young man appeared. He was the actual ticket-taker and he explained that the deer we’d just

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D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Hedonistic Hiking runs all-inclusive tours across Italy (and Australia) in which you learn so much about the history, culture and food and wine of the areas you are travelling in

A brief rest

Pomegranates and plums

Ever onwards

Local ham and cheese

The remains of the Cistercian abbey of Santa Maria del Monte

34 ITALIA! February 2020

OFF-GRID

in Abruzzo Mark Nicholls spends a week savouring the pleasures of hiking, traditional cuisine and alberghi diffusi in the unspoilt national parks of Abruzzo

Images by Mark Nicholls unless otherwise stated

he crumbling walls of a Cistercian monastery stand in silence as sentinels against the elements. For centuries, the Abbey of Santa Maria del Monte was an important ecclesiastical house in this bleak corner of Abruzzo, controlling the surrounding terrain from its commanding position. Monks managed the flocks for Florentine rulers who had become wealthy on the fleeces, until the importance of wool trade declined in the 17th century. Today all that remains of the 13thcentury abbey are lonely walls. Isolated and in ruins, they sit against a backdrop of soaring rock escarpments and undulating pasture sweeping across steppe-like plains that lie below the jagged vertical walls that lead up to the summit of Corno Grande at 2,912m. The silence is eerie, interrupted only by the sound of bells clanging around the necks of free-roaming cattle. Joining a group from Hedonistic Hiking on a walking, wine and food tour through the region of Abruzzo, east of Rome, I pass the ruins mid-morning. The weather is mild with clear skies and sunshine, though occasionally the October breeze carries a hint of the chill and snows that lie ahead. Undulating between 1,580m and 1,780m above sea level, we cut across grasslands and rocky hillsides as the cloud line whispers to the upper peaks. After half a dozen miles, it is lunch; a rendezvous with picnic hampers packed with local meats and cheese, fresh fruits, red and white wine from the region, salads, bread and porcini mushroom soup. Hedonistic Hiking is run by Jackie and Mick Parsons, who also lead the hikes, and the ethos is to showcase the Italian landscape, its history and culture, accompanied by tastes of traditional cuisine and local wines.

fortified medieval villages, churches and castles, with the walled city of Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Aquila as the main commercial centre. Within the parks are soaring peaks, such as Monte Petroso (2,249m) and Monte Marsicano (2,245m), and forests of beech, oak, pine, maple, mountain ash, yew and laburnum, offering a blaze of bronze, copper and decaying yellow as autumn takes hold. The parks are also home to protected wildlife: the critically-endangered Marsican brown bear, Abruzzo chamois, Apennine wolves, red deer and roe deer, as well as cattle and semi-wild horses. A third of Abruzzo is subject to environmental protection, including the Gran Sasso, Majella and Abruzzo national parks, which is where we spend much of the tour. Encircled by the majestic peaks of the Gran Sasso National Park, we follow the rocky remnants of a glacial flow and head back to the fortified medieval village of Santo Stefano di Sessanio and the Hotel Sextantio, which champions the albergo diffuso (diffused hotel) concept of accommodation. Not dissimilar to the cave homes that have been converted into hotels in Cappadocia in central Turkey, or the similar dwellings of Matera Cattle are allowed to roam freely here through the warmer months

MOUNTAINS AND HILLS Over the days ahead, these al fresco lunches become a welcome feature of a journey on foot through Abruzzoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s network of national parks. It is a region characterised by the mountains and hills of the Apennine range, gorges and expanses of high plateaux, extensive forestry, February 2020 ITALIA! 35

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

THE CONCEPT OF THE ALBERGO DIFFUSO My room at the hotel

Hotel Sextantio

Translating as “diffused hotel”, this style sees rooms spread across a village or farm, rather than clustered together. The accommodation is often in transformed former homes, here hewn out of rock and devastated by earthquake and age, being sympathetically reconstructed within the centuries-old village in a way that reflects rural traditions. With a key the size of a small hammer, a heavy latch clanks and a huge wooden door creaks open. I step down into my cosy, yet cavernous, room. Not so long ago this was a ruin – one of numerous empty rooms in a community that time looked set to forget and allow, over the weathered decades, to be absorbed back into this outcrop. Now reborn, and honed into an albergo diffuso, these atmospheric abodes are breathing new life into Santo Stefano di Sessanio, which was devastated in the 2009 earthquake, with many buildings, including the symbolic Medici Tower (being rebuilt), destroyed. With its thick stone walls, my accommodation is warm and comfortable, and comes complete with bath, toilet, bed and furnishings. With courtyards and cobbled passages leading to dispersed rooms managed from a central reception, the village also has restaurants, bars, cafés and shops, all of them immersed within this ancient infrastructure.

36 ITALIA! February 2020

Finding your way around

Dinner in the hotel restaurant

Hotel sign

Santo Stefano di Sessanio

Into the sunshine

Reaching the ruins of the fortress of Rocca Calascio

in Basilicata, here in Italy, Hotel Sextantio provides an atmospheric base for the first three nights of our ‘Wilds of Abruzzo’ tour of central Italy. The following morning, with the light crisp and sharp, we walk out of the village and climb gradually. Our destination on a rocky ledge above grassy slopes is the ruins of Rocca Calascio. Evidence suggests that there was a fortress here for a thousand years, commanding trade and the transit routes where sheep were herded across the barren emptiness of Abruzzo. At 1,460m, the view over the hills is breathtaking. Descending past the 17th-century chapel of Santa Maria della Pietà just below, we pause for lunch of lentil soup, caprese (buffalo mozzarella, basil and tomatoes), rocket salad with walnuts and fennel, pecorino cheese and mortadella ham, prepared by Iole Esposito. On other days we feast on sheep’s and goat’s cheese, salami, ventricina – a pork sausage with chilli, wild fennel and orange zest – schiacciata and focaccia bread, grilled pepper and courgettes, and sweet clementine, apples, plums, persimmons, pears and pomegranates. REMOTE BEAUTY Abruzzo remains one of Italy’s poorer regions, and the remoteness – and the risk of earthquake – has seen villages abandoned, with citizens leaving and never returning. Hollywood, however, has not neglected this region, and films such as The Name of the Rose (starring Sean Connery and based on Umberto Eco’s debut novel) and The American were filmed in the area, the latter starring George Clooney, who is regarded as something of a friend to the region for his support after the earthquake of April 2009 devastated L’Aquila. The Wilds of Abruzzo tour also gives us the opportunity to visit Sulmona, famous for its sugared almonds (known as confetti), and the medieval village of Barrea overlooking the lake that takes its name.

By mid-week we are well into our stride, starting a walk beside stone watering troughs, along farm tracks and past roaming cattle into the shade of beech trees and following the trail across the hillside above a fertile glacial basin into Pescocostanzo. The livestock is protected from wolves, vultures and eagles by Abruzzese Mastiff dogs with warm white coats, which police the pasturelands. These companionable canines seemingly appear from nowhere, joining us for a few miles, and then disappear. Indeed, as we walk, these amiable creatures become regular escorts through the open terrain and tree lines, and onto high ridges. Next we tackle a trek of 12 miles. Starting below Pescocostanzo, we wander beneath copper beeches filtering sunlight, cross open meadows and onto a high ledge. Our route back is a long descent over a rockstrewn path and into open fields. Another walk, through the Abruzzo National Park, takes us towards Opi, a village on a rocky spine dominated by the church at the top and the bold white face of its clock. From a cobbled main street, narrow alleys tumble away to courtyards and entrances to houses where window boxes cling to the remnants of summer flowers, the last vestiges of red Looking down over Lake Barrea

February 2020 ITALIA! 37

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

On the ﬁnal approach to Pescasseroli

That’s Jackie on the right

High above the clouds on the Abruzzo-Molise border

38 ITALIA! February 2020

The church clock at Opi

An Abruzzese Mastiff

and pink geraniums set against the pale grey stonework. We take lunch and then set off towards Pescasseroli via a steep climb before descending across pasture and undulating meadow, which in the winter forms a popular ski area. CULTURE AND LEGEND Our journey, however, is not just about food, wine and walking; Jackie tells us about the local history, culture and legend, and the produce of the region, as well as entertaining us with an après-lunch story as we sit in the sun with a glass of wine. Reading extracts from books set in the area, we hear about daring wartime tales and

PASTA MAKING IN ABRUZZO

A STEP BACK IN TIME Hedonistic Hiking runs tours across Italy throughout the summer (and in Australia from November onwards). But what is apparent is the passion and enthusiasm for regions such as Abruzzo, and the local cuisine, which is always such a critical element of the hikes. “Walking through Abruzzo feels like a step back in time, an area that has been untouched and unspoilt by tourism,” Jackie tells me. “We are often the only tourists going there and that spills over into the welcome we get from the people who live there. We can often walk all day and never see anyone else; that is my idea of a top walk. In autumn you get the amazing colours of the trees, in springtime you see the wild flowers, and there is the appeal of the wildlife as well.” The walks are designed to be enjoyable and manageable and in Abruzzo range from six to twelve miles, with altitude differences of 1,200 to 1,900m. A beautifully isolated landscape, Abruzzo is sparsely populated and unspoilt. It offers deliciously wholesome food and wine across a spectacularly bleak yet mesmerising terrain of medieval villages, castles, fortresses and remote hiking trails. Go there to experience an adventure right off the beaten track, you’ll be glad you did.

Spaghetti cutters or chitarre

High-quality, locally-grown durum wheat means Abruzzo has a thriving pasta industry, as well as abundant vegetables and pulses. While the more mountainous areas are not suitable for cultivating vines, the land towards the coast is famous for its red Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and its white Trebbiano d’Abruzzo wines from an array of producers, which we sample as we go. Dinner is often in a village restaurant with gnocchi, spinach, roast lamb, green beans and potatoes, risotto of mushrooms and pumpkin, and river trout on the menu. We also taste bruschetta, ravioli filled with gorgonzola cheese and pear, roast rabbit and tiramisù. But there comes a time where we too don chef’s aprons and prepare a meal from scratch at the albergo diffuso. Guided by a local chef, we make the Abruzzese speciality of spaghetti alla chitarra, starting with egg and flour, then kneading the mixture, and pressing it through a chitarra implement to form long thin noodles similar to spaghetti. We then make meatballs, later served to us in the restaurant with the spaghetti and a tomato-based sauce.

of Allied prisoners aided in their escape by courageous Abruzzese from Escaping Hitler by Monty Halls. On another day, Finding Valentino by Australian author Angela Di Sciascio details her travels through southern Italy, capturing the history of her father and his culture through their relatives still living in Abruzzo. Ahead of the final day of walking, we recharge in Pescasseroli, setting off promptly in the cool air of the following morning on a challenging route that climbs some 700m through beech and maple woods to a spectacular ridge at 1,800m and an abandoned 1920s rifugio. Following the ridgeline along the regional border of Abruzzo and Molise, the landscape below is managed by park authorities and home to the last remaining 50 Marsican bears, which feed on endemic bushes, berries, vegetation and small mammals. Descending a rocky hillside into mountain pastures, we picnic near the church of Santa Maria di Monte Tranquillo, at 1,600m, on sausages and arrosticini (skewers of lamb) cooked over coals, and then follow shepherd’s tracks back to Pescasseroli to complete a walk of some 17km.

The process in action

Hand-made spaghetti!

FURTHER INFORMATION ³ Mark Nicholls joined Hedonistic Hiking’s Wilds of Abruzzo tour. Classified as Level 4 walking, the accommodation includes the Hotel Sextantio albergo diffuso, the Hotel Archi San Rocco at Pescocostanzo and Hotel Villino Quintilliani at Pescasseroli. The next Abruzzo walk runs from May 29 to June 6, 2020, at €3,025 per person. ³ Other destinations include the Dolomites, Tuscany, Piedmont, the Italian Lakes and Alps, Emilia-Romagna, Umbria and Basilicata. Tours are all-inclusive, including guided walking, gourmet picnic lunches, dinners with wine, museum visits and wine tastings and cookery classes and airport transfers. ³ For more information, visit www.hedonistichiking.com

February 2020 ITALIA! 39

S P E A K I TA L I A !

GAZZETTA In this month’s bilingual feature, Tom Alberto Bull reports on the ways in which Italy is attempting to tackle climate change

KEY WORDS Useful Italian words and phrases to add to your vocabulary Il cambiamento climatico Climate change Lo sviluppo sostenibile Sustainable development Una serie di misure A series of measures Una riorganizzazione radicale A radical reorganisation Materie scolastiche School subjects Il sistema scolastico The school system Manifestazioni studentesche Student demonstrations Hanno ricevuto (They) have received Borracce per l’acqua Water flasks L’uso della plastica The use of plastic La emergenza climatica The climate crisis Sott’acqua Under water L’olio di oliva Olive oil

40 ITALIA! February 2020

ITALIANO

ITALIA! COME AFFRONTARE IL CAMBIAMENTO CLIMATICO

L’Italia ha assunto un ruolo guida sul tema del cambiamento climatico con la decisione di diventare il primo paese al mondo a rendere obbligatorio lo studio del cambiamento climatico e dello sviluppo sostenibile in tutte le scuole statali, insieme ad una serie di misure per affrontare la crisi. Con questa riorganizzazione radicale del sistema educativo i temi ambientali saranno al centro di varie materie scolastiche comprese la geografia, la fisica e la matematica. Il nuovo curriculum è stato presentato da Lorenzo Fioramonti, ministro per l’Istruzione ed esponente del Movimento Cinque Stelle, il quale ha dichiarato: “Voglio far sì che il sistema scolastico italiano sia il primo a porre l’ambiente e la società al centro di tutto ciò che si impara a scuola.” La decisione giunge in seguito alle manifestazioni studentesche di massa nel 2019 a sostegno della campagna globale della giovane svedese Greta Thunberg. Molte scuole hanno appoggiato queste proteste e hanno lanciato le proprie iniziative per promuovere la sostenibilità. A Milano, i miei cuginetti, insieme ad altri centomila alunni nelle scuole elementari, hanno ricevuto dal sindaco borracce per l’acqua riutilizzabili nel tentativo di ridurre l’uso della plastica. La notizia giunge anche in un momento in cui l’Italia si trova davanti agli effetti più devastanti dell’emergenza climatica. Venezia è stata colpita dalla seconda peggiore inondazione marina di tutti i tempi che ha lasciato il 70 percento della città sott’acqua. La produzione di alcuni dei beni nazionali più importanti per l’esportazione è in declino, come per esempio l’olio di oliva, calata del ben 57 percento solo in quest’ultimo anno. Tre delle maggiori città italiane – Torino, Milano e Napoli – occupano i primi posti per tassi di inquinamento atmosferico e per smog nella graduatoria di città europee pubblicata dall’Organizzazione Mondiale per la Salute. Oltre alle riforme nel sistema educativo il governo ha anche annunciato una serie di politiche mirate a creare un’economia più verde. Un punto chiave riguarda il problema sempre più grave dei rifiuti di plastica, dal momento che alcuni studi hanno rivelato che una quantità sbalorditiva (ben 570,000 tonnellate) finisce nel Mediterraneo ogni anno. Il problema è in parte dovuto al fatto che il paese è il più grosso consumatore di acqua imbottigliata in tutto il mondo, con una media di 178 litri a persona consumati ogni anno. Ora il governo propone di introdurre una tassa nel progetto preliminare di bilancio per il 2020 che riscuoterà un euro per ogni chilogrammo di plastica prodotta. Secondo le stime questa tassa sulla plastica potrebbe fruttare circa un miliardo di euro all’anno. Il progetto di bilancio è stato approvato dal Consiglio dei Ministri ma deve ancora essere approvato dalle due camere entro la fine dell’anno e in seguito dalla Commissione Europea a Bruxelles.

Extreme weather has be en the main cause of the collapse in the oli ve harvest

ENGLISH

HOW TO TACKLE CLIMATE CHANGE

Italy has taken a leading role on climate change by announcing it is to become the first country in the world to make it compulsory to teach climate crisis and sustainable development in state schools, along with a series of other measures to tackle the crisis. In a radical shake-up of the country’s education system, the topics will become central to a range of subjects including geography, physics and mathematics. The new curriculum was announced by Lorenzo Fioramonti, education minister and member of the Five Star Movement, who explained, “I want to make the Italian education system the first that puts the environment and society at the centre of everything we learn at school.” The decision comes in the wake of mass student demonstrations in 2019 in support of the global campaign led by the young Swede Greta Thunberg. Many schools have supported these protests and have launched their own initiatives to promote sustainability. In Milan, my young cousins, along with 100,000 other primary school pupils, have been provided with refillable water flasks by the mayor in a bid to reduce the use of plastic.

A key focus is the problem of plastic waste

Un’economia più verde A greener economy Una quantità sbalorditiva A staggering amount L’acqua imbottigliata Bottled water Secondo le stime According to estimates Un miliardo di euro A billion euros La Commissione Europea The European Commission

The news also comes at a time when Italy is facing up to the devastating effects of the climate crisis. Venice has seen its second-worst tidal flooding since records began, leaving 70 per cent of the city under water. Production of some of the country’s most valuable exports are on the wane, including olive oil, which has fallen by 57 per cent this year alone. Three of the country’s major cities – Turin, Milan and Naples – topped a list of European cities for air pollution and smog published by the World Health Organisation. Aside from the changes to the education system, the government has also announced a range of policies to create a greener economy. A key focus is the growing problem of plastic waste, as studies revealed that a staggering 570,000 tonnes of plastic was ending up in the Mediterranean each year. The problem is partly down to the country being the largest consumer of bottled water in the world, averaging at around 178 litres drunk annually per person. Now, the government is proposing to introduce a tax in the draft budget for 2020 which would levy one euro for every kilogramme of plastic produced. According to estimates, the plastic tax could bring in around 1 billion euros per year. The draft budget has been approved by the cabinet but must still be approved in both houses by the end of the year, and then rubber stamped by the European Commission in Brussels.

“If not now, when? If not us, who?” “To forget how to dig the earth and to tend the soil is to forget ourselves.”

February 2020 ITALIA! 41

PA S T I TA L I A !

THE MONT BLANC TUNNEL The newer Fréjus Road Tunnel is now more important, commercially speaking, but the Mont Blanc Tunnel will always be more iconic…

he Mont Blanc Tunnel links Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, with Courmayeur, Valle d’Aosta, and – from an Italian perspective at least – is one of the most important transport routes in the country (not because you can get from one ski resort to the other but because it effectively links Turin and Milan with Geneva). The idea was originally conceived in the 19th century, as a rail route, but the agreement to actually build the tunnel was not signed until 1949. Drilling began in 1959, and the tunnel was opened to traffic in 1965.

42 ITALIA! February 2020

February 2020 ITALIA! 43

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Venice

THROUGH A LENS

How to capture this precious city with your camera in ten simple steps. Writer Sara Scarpa and photographer Iain Reid take you on a photography tour of La Serenissima… Left: St Mark’s Square at night, under high tide. This image: The water constantly changes the view

enice is one of the most photographed cities in the world. Every year some 25 million tourists visit and try, in a few days, sometimes even hours, to capture its beauty with their camera. They fight their way through the crowds in Saint Mark’s Square to photograph the Basilica; they queue to take a selfie on the Rialto Bridge; or squeeze in for a shot looking out from the small window on the Bridge of Sighs. And who can blame them? Venice is unique. Yet it has been photographed so many times that there are people who can describe its landmarks in great detail without ever having stepped foot in the city. So why – and how – should you photograph Venice? SOMETHING DIFFERENT First off, there is no right or wrong photograph of Venice. Everyone person is pursuing something different, and it is often a process of connecting dreams with reality. We believe that everyone will find in Venice what they have been looking for. Everyone will have their own interpretation of the city, and even though some might look like stereotypes, they are still going to be personal portrayals of Venice. However, what we would ask you to consider is to seek out alternatives to the standard photographs: new locations, different times of the day and fresh concepts. Venice is in fact not only the monumental city of imposing churches and magnificent palaces; it is also the city of minimal details and of the humble ordinariness of everyday life. Many of

44 ITALIA! February 2020

its surprising elements, all part of the grand total, are difficult to discern if you visit it in a rush and do not spend time trying to get to know the place intimately. Even when you live there, often while you are walking around the city you stumble across a new frame to shoot, whether it be a courtyard or a relief on the façade of a palace in a calle you have passed many times before. MAGIC AND BEAUTY If you look carefully you will find, for example, numerous pateras (small circular reliefs used in the embellishment of the buildings), symbols, decorations, sculpted capitals that have remained untouched for centuries. All these fragments contribute to the magic and beauty of the city. They are timeless signs of the past, some of them dating back as far back as 1000 AD. Easy to read for men in the Middle Ages, today they are often mysterious and open to different interpretations. In Venice it is common to feel a strong connection with the past – the place abounds with ancient symbols, tales of a glorious past, old legends and elegant palaces whose plaster is peeling off, showing the deep red bricks beneath that are crumbling as a result of the saline water that impregnates them. This article is therefore an introductory interpretation of Venice – or rather a partial one, as it is a never-ending process – and every year and every season, we will find new aspects and new readings of this beautiful decaying city. Venice has a composite distinctiveness and many new facets to discover and document.

The unchanged ever changing city: water and light

Images by Iain Reid unless otherwise stated

Many painters have already elegantly immortalized Venice’s beauty and many photographers have captured its lure from different angles. Portraying and describing the city is an extremely difficult task, not only because you do not want to repeat a stereotype but also because the city changes so quickly and constantly. Even though Venice has changed very little through the centuries in terms of its architecture, it is also one of the cities whose aspect varies the most from one season to another, from one day to another, and even during the same day. No other city is so closely linked to water as Venice, and water is never still, relentlessly moving, raising for six hours and lowering for the following six hours. Therefore the image of the city is ever changing and its reflections on water keep fluctuating, so it is impossible to represent its many facets and variations with a few shots. Every place looks different depending on the light and the tide. Like in Monet’s paintings, the same motifs appear different according to the atmospheric conditions, the changeable qualities of light and the sense of movement of the water.

Carnevale will always offer fresh photography

Photographing Venice through the four seasons

Each season reveals something different. Seasonal changes impact every location but in Venice there is a profound change to the consciousness of inhabitants and visitors alike which does shift the type of photography you undertake. You move from vibrant, colourful scenes to sombre, dark shots as Venice becomes shrouded in winter caigo (the Venetian fog). WINTER – In winter the city is uncrowded and populated by Venetians. The caigo often shrouds everything, giving the city a sometimes ghostly atmosphere. And between November and January the acqua alta (high tide) floods many areas of Venice, especially the lower areas, such as St Mark’s Square. Sometimes snow covers the grey masegni stones and cloaks the city in a white layer. But the major event for the season is the Carnevale di Venezia, which turns the city into a living theatre set with thousands of people in masks, performances and water parades. (This year the Carnevale will take place from 8-25 February.)

SPRING – Spring is a lovely time to enjoy the city as it is still relatively quiet and not too hot. The vernissage of the Venice Biennale takes place at this time, attracting art lovers from all over the world. The Festa della Sensa (the Ascension Feast) is an ancient Venetian tradition celebrating the symbolic marriage of Venice with the sea; a water parade on traditional Venetian boats, a rowing competition, an interesting market in San Nicolò in Lido and other events take place every year on the first Sunday after the Ascension Day. Another two wonderful rowing competitions occur in the same period: the Palio delle Repubbliche Marinare, which takes place in Venice every four years, and the Vogalonga. SUMMER – In the summer you can witness Venice’s sunsets and sunrises. What makes them different is the interaction with the water. The reflections cast and mirrored are like beautiful watercolours painted with a palette of warm hues. On the third Saturday of July, during one of the most important celebrations for the city, the Redentore, you can shoot the lagoon all lit up with Winter fog shrouds fireworks and covered with hundreds of decorated the city boats. At the beginning of September you can see the Regata Storica, the main event in the rowing calendar, famous rowing races preceded by the spectacular boat parade. AUTUMN – Autumn is the perfect time for shooting the outdoors in Giardini and Sant’Elena, the two main public green areas in Venice. On the 21st of November every year Venetians celebrate the Feast of the Madonna della Salute in memory of the salvation of Venice from the plague. Thousands of people make the pilgrimage across a temporary votive bridge to the Church of the Madonna della Salute to light a candle and pay homage to the Madonna who is said to have saved the city in its darkest hour.

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D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Colour is everywhere in Venice

Go to Burano on a sunny day

Burano is the place to go for colour

There are some colours that are constants of the city: the red of the palaces, the deeper red of the bricks, the offwhite of the Istrian stone and the bottle green of the waters of the lagoon. But there is a huge spectrum of colours spilling into the city, fluid and changing with each passing hour. What you capture on the morning will be a far cry from what you capture in the late afternoon or evening, so it is worth considering returning to the same location just to compare the two periods – you can then have powerful images that stand side by side in a frame. Colour is everywhere in Venice, especially in the lagoon and on the island of Burano. Originally a fishing village, Burano can be reached by public transport in around an hour from the centre of Venice. The painted houses are a magnet for tourists and although it will generally be busy during the period from June to September, the colour that people come to shoot is not confined to one area and nearly every house on the island will be worth taking photos of. The island really is a photographer’s paradise – small houses, narrow characterful alleyways, pretty courtyards and altane (roof terraces), the famous leaning bell tower and the quiet canals with local fishermen’s boats. The houses are all painted in different colours: blue, red, violet, orange and pink in all their different shades. The most colourful is the famous house of Bepi Suà in Via al Gottolo, which is painted with multicoloured geometrical shapes. And from the old fish market it is possible to get great shots of the lagoon, especially at sunset. But Burano is not only about the scenery. Here you can get great glimpses of everyday local life. The Buranelli, the residents of the island, are proud of its beauty and constantly take care of their houses by repainting them and embellishing them with flowers.

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It’s all in the detail

Venice’s texture is a joy to photograph. Usually there is detail to capture regardless of which location you find yourself in – hundreds of stone and marble lions (the symbol of La Serenissima), weathered façades, abandoned shrines, charming Venetian gothic windows and doors, countless door knockers and door knobs shaped as real and imaginary people and creatures, the detail of the Porta della Carta, the bronze flagpoles, the marble faces that go unnoticed above the porticos of St Mark’s Square… Look closely and you will find plenty of subjects to photograph.

It’s the little things that count

Always remember to look up

5 Colourful umbrellas from the Campanile

Gaining perspective: photographing from above

Viewing Venice from above will help you understand its topography. From an elevated vantage point you will see its structure and organization, and you will have some great vistas to photograph. Opt for an hotel or apartment with an altana, and if you wish to get a great view of Venice from a higher position then the three locations for shooting down would be the bell tower of Saint Mark’s, of the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and from the recent addition to the skyline vantage points, the roof terrace of Fondaco Tedeschi by the Rialto Bridge. Although the viewing area within the Campanile of San Marco is the highest accessible point in Venice, you won’t actually see any of the 177 canals that spread out across Venice apart from the mouth of the Canal Grande and the Canale della Giudecca. What you will be presented with is a 360 degree view of Venice, the lagoon and the surrounding islands. For a city that can seem slightly claustrophobic and enclosed when you are walking through its narrow streets, this perspective is refreshing and provides many an opportunity for the photographer. In front of the Basin of Saint Mark’s is the island of San Giorgio Maggiore with its Palladian jewel. From this bell tower, your views south and east are similar to those that can be captured from Saint Mark’s, but the standout vantage points from our second bell tower are the view north as you capture the Doges’ Palace, and west as you detail the expansive curve of Giudecca and its canal. Personally we prefer San Giorgio to St Mark’s as the light is cast down the Grand Canal and lights upon, or softens, the detailed façade of the Doges’ Palace. Also, the cost for Saint Mark’s campanile is €8 and there will be very long queues, while the ticket for San Giorgio’s costs €6 and there is much less traffic waiting to reach the top. The new addition is the view from the old German warehouse, Fondaco dei Tedeschi, which has been converted from a post office to a high-end shopping destination. Surprisingly, the access to the large roof terrace is still free of charge, though it is necessary book a time slot through their website. View from the Campanile San Marco

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D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Street photography

Too often, capturing daily life being played out by Venetians is difficult, especially in the summer as they become diluted by the thousands of visitors who in some respects take over the city! Not all is lost however as the sestieri (districts) of Cannaregio and Castello are where the largest number of Venetians reside and where you can capture images of true Venetian life. Cannaregio, with its long, and expansive Fondamenta della Misercordia merging into Ormesini and quieter parallel Fondamenta della Sensa, will provide you with a selection of beautiful canal scenes, artisans, local shops, wonderful churches and classic worn faĂ§ades. A stoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s throw from here is the oldest ghetto in the world. Castello on the other hand, and its famous Via Garibaldi, is a bustling, loud and exciting part of town. A wonderful fruit and veg barge, local butchers and a large number of osterie and bars ensure that there is plenty to shoot and the crowd is intermixed with the art lovers visiting the nearby Venice Biennale at Giardini. Complement and contrast

48 ITALIA! February 2020

Colour still plays a role in street photography

An alternative view of the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

San Marco Campanile

Standing out from the crowd

To make your images to stand out from other people’s, take a moment or two when you are looking through the lens to think whether you have seen something similar before. And when we are talking about Venice, chances are you probably have! Sometimes there is no alternative angle, but look for one. This is especially true when you are looking to photograph aspects or palaces along the Grand Canal, as there are many side canals or sottoporteghi facing out onto the canal that you can reach easily and that will allow you to work with a different angle. One good example of this is when you are taking photographs of the Church of the Madonna della Salute around the Accademia Bridge area: rather than taking your photo from the bridge itself, you can reach a small jetty to the left by cutting through some of the small calle off Campo Santo Stefano. Camera equipment to some extent will limit the type of shots you will take but on the flipside it will challenge your creativity! Apart from Piazza San Marco, a few larger campi and fondamente, Venice is a series of narrow streets with equally narrow canals running alongside. With this in mind, it is worth noting that a wide angle lens will be extremely useful should you wish to shoot around the streets, whether it be to capture Venetian doors, faded façades or street life. If a wide angle lens is yet to be part of your equipment do not fret: adapt and work with what you have. If you cannot capture the subject in full then look for the detail, such as texture, colour or the weathered appearance of a door or façade. Many cities are well lit after hours so you don’t need a tripod. Venice, however, is extremely low lit at night so a tripod or low aperture lens is essential when you are venturing out after dark.

Castello and Cannaregio

Photographing the sestieri

CASTELLO – Here you have street life, scenes of laundry hanging, and old well heads around the area of the Church of San Giuseppe and Via Garibaldi. You also have the Arsenale – the entrance to the Arsenale and the surrounding areas of Bragora and San Martino will be productive. You can also capture the sunset at the tip of Via Garibaldi with the Church of the Madonna della Salute in the foreground. CANNAREGIO – The largest district, and also heavily populated with Venetians, provides a slightly softer setting to that of Castello as the embankments of Misericordia and Sensa, day or night, are peaceful, with wooden boats moored against a surprising backdrop of greenery spilling out from the private gardens that Cannaregio is famous for. The Ghetto and the Church of the Madonna dell’Orto complete a real sense of Venice. DORSODURO –The long stretch of Dorsoduro with its Zattere embankment will provide you with some great sunsets. An early start or a sunset from the point of the Dogana looking towards the Church of the Madonna della Salute will ensure you have a Venetian vista to put in a frame. Taking in Calle Nani you will find the Squero di San Trovaso, where for over 400 years gondolas have been constructed and repaired. SAN POLO – Although the Campo San Polo is the second largest Campo in Venice after Saint Mark’s, most of the area is a maze of tight winding streets interlinked with bridges and canals that seem to shimmer with a more vibrant colour than other areas of Venice. You can and should get lost in this district! With plenty of calles leading to the canals, many with small jetties, you can get close to the water’s edge and find a true sense of Venice’s fabric. San Polo is also abundantly stocked with wine bars and osterias, which allow you to interact with many of the locals over a glass of wine. SANTA CROCE – This district occupies the northwest side of Venice. The western area of this district includes the port, Tronchetto and Piazzale Roma, which is home to bus station and car parks. This is the only part of the city where cars can travel; it the most industrialized and one of the busiest areas, and so not so interesting from a photography point of view. However, you will come across the peaceful Campo di San Giacomo dell’Orio and some hidden areas where you will be able to capture beautiful glimpses of everyday Venetian life. SAN MARCO – The historical centre of Venice. If you can, visit the Bacino just before sunrise, when the golden first light creates a special warmth to the Doges’ Palace; and Saint Mark’s Square before the crowd and bright, harsh light takes over. Likewise, if you can venture out once the crowds have dispersed, around midnight, you will see the piazza turning into the ‘finest drawing room of Europe’, as Napoleon once famously described it.

February 2020 ITALIA! 49

Image by Paolo Monti - Available in the BEIC digital library and uploaded in partnership with BEIC Foundation. The image comes from the Fondo Paolo Monti, owned by BEIC and located in the Civico Archivio Fotograﬁco of Milan., CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=48078568

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Inspiration. Fulvio Roiter: a great photographer of Venice Fulvio Roiter is one of the photographers whose name is most linked to the image of the city of Venice. He was a Venetian photographer who died just four years ago and had been taking incredible photos for over half a century. He believed that living in a place can make you ending up with not being able to see that place any longer, and it is only thanks to curiosity and to the ability of feeling emotions that we can Above: Just because a concept overcome habit and has been tried before doesn’t avoid becoming mean it can’t be tried again. blind. Emotions and This shot is partly inspired by feelings are in fact the work of Fulvio Roiter. often difficult in a Left: The photographer as a city taken over by subject – picture of Fulvio tourists. Roiter is Roiter taken in Ferrara by Paolo Monti, 1977. an inspiration.

Sunrise over the Basin of San Marco

Be prepared to lose some sleep!

Don’t forget to get up early and explore late. While there will be many people out there trying to capture the city at sunset, not so many will be there at dawn. To make the most of your time in Venice you could consider taking the number 1 vaporetto just before first light to capture the day breaking over the Grand Canal as the sun casts its first light onto the palaces. At this time of day the boat will be almost empty and you will have a moment where Venice is all yours as you frame this beautiful city in your own way. Dusk over the lagoon

50 ITALIA! February 2020

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ITALIA! STYLE

Image © L’Andana

L’Andana looks out across the ﬁelds to the Tyrrhenian coast

SOUTHERN BELLE Restful bedrooms in the Tuscan style

Image © L’Andana

La Trattoria is wellstocked with wines

Casa Badiola is a cosy family hideaway

52 ITALIA! February 2020

The light and airy lobby is an inviting space

Image © L’Andana

Head to Tuscany’s beautiful south and relax in style at L’Andana Resort, an historic and welcoming Medici villa overlooking the tranquil Maremma landscape

Photography by Amanda Robinson unless otherwise stated

nder expansive, ever-changing skies, the Maremma in southern Tuscany is blessed with an abundance of natural beauty. From its woodlands and wide plains, where the butteri (cowboys) still drive their long-horned cattle, to the coves and crags of its coastline, (second only to Liguria for its tally of Blue Flag beaches), this is a peaceful and verdant region, but it hasn’t always been so – much of it used to be marshland. The Romans recognised the potential here and drained the fertile swamps for cultivation, but it wasn’t until the 1800s that the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Leopold II, began an ambitious and far-sighted reclamation scheme, transforming the Maremma from brackish, marshy wetland to fertile, habitable terrain. TUSCAN HOSPITALITY It was in this spot the Grand Duke built his own country residence, L’Andana, set on the gentle slopes overlooking Castiglione della Pescaia. And following in his footsteps, we arrived to stay at this elegant Medici villa. Those Italian aristocrats knew a thing or two when it came to picking the right spot for their summer getaways, as this elegant old manor nestles deep in the Maremma heartland, a peaceful, working patchwork of fields, criss-crossed by narrow lanes dotted with small farms. Sweeping up the long avenue flanked with sentry-straight cypresses and flat top stone pines, this gracious residence rises before you with a creamy stone façade and refined proportions. The sun-warmed air hangs heavy here, infused with lavender and Mediterranean herbs from the gardens that surround the hotel. The light and airy lobby area with floor-to-ceiling glass windows create a restful space inviting you to appreciate the unspoiled pastoral landscape outside, while the classy interiors (designed by Ettore Mocchetti, architect and director of AD: Architectural Digest) combine traditional Tuscan country style

Comfort is key in every bedroom Take your time in the relaxing spa

Plenty of space to play at the resort’s kids’ club

Room with a Tuscan view

Grapes from the local vineyards

Acquagiusta winery is a new venture Oak barrels in the cellar

You can book a wine tasting on site

Bottled Vermentino

February 2020 ITALIA! 53

ITALIA! STYLE

There are plenty of diverting activities on offer, some more energetic than others

Cycle around the local vineyards

Lighter options to enjoy al fresco

54 ITALIA! February 2020

Hand rolled pici with tomato sauce Relaxed country style of La Villa

Image © L’Andana

Guests and chef ﬁlling fresh tortellini for lunch

with more decorative, fancy touches. Think warm neutrals and earthy tones highlighted with accents of vibrant orange, crimson and purple – to soothe the senses and establish a refined air of understated luxe. With 33 bedrooms and suites in the main house, plus 14 apartments at the wonderfully family-friendly Casa Badiola in the grounds, this is a place to rest and relax. There are plenty of diverting activities on offer, some more active than others – bliss out with a massage at the ESPA wellness centre or relax in the thermal indoor pool. With a heated outdoor pool in the gardens along with a 12-hole golf course and tennis court, time passes quite pleasantly. Younger guests have a well-appointed kids’ club in the grounds as well as their own swimming pool. If you fancy something more adventurous, L’Andana can organise cycling tours with e-bikes for the those who want to enjoy the views of the rolling countryside – and mountain bikes for the off-road hardy types. Horseriding, sailing, yoga and specialist sports academies are all here too, so there is plenty of choice throughout the year. WINE AND DINE The underground fresh water spring Acquagiusta has been serving the area for centuries and is the inspiration for the resort’s new winery. This exciting initiative, which now produces wines from a rich red blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah) to a crisp white Vermentino with great success, looks set for continued success with a favourable harvest this year. These and many other fine wines are served at the two restaurants here: La Villa within the main building and the Michelin-starred La Trattoria Enrico Bartolini, a minute’s walk away in the gardens. Local produce features large on the seasonal menus, which are overseen by the same tireless chef in both kitchens. From fine dining tasting menus to a simple boiled egg, every dish is created with flair and generosity, to savour in this undisturbed oasis, tucked away in a quiet corner of southern Tuscany.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO TAKE A COOKERY CLASS The chef’s kitchen has its own take on zero food miles, by offering cookery classes to guests who prepare their own lunch. Under chef’s watchful eye and inspired instruction, you’ll exceed your own culinary expectations, and have enormous fun at the same time. In just one morning class, we made hand-rolled pici (a rustic Tuscan spaghetti) and a fresh tomato sauce, ﬁlled tortellini and a saffron-infused (and indulgently buttery) risotto milanese. MAREMMA REGIONAL PARK Via del Bersagliere, 7/9, 58100 Alberese, Grosseto www.parco-maremma.it Visit the Maremma Regional Park, a vast area of outstanding natural beauty both inland and along a simply glorious stretch of coastline. With forest trails, cycling paths and ﬁshing, there are guided itineraries which start from Alberese and Talamone. Track down the ancient Abbey of San Rabano in the heart of the park, and the beautiful WWF Orbetello Nature Reserve is an oasis for bird-spotting (www.wwf.it/ oasi/toscana/laguna_di_orbetello). OUT AND ABOUT Don’t miss Roselle, Pitigliano, Sorano and Sovana for Etruscan heritage and stunning clifftop settings, and nearby Castiglione della Pescaia for serious seaside chic. Hire a boat to explore the Tuscan Archipelago – from diminutive Gorgona, at just 2.23 sq km, to car-free Giannutri, historic Giglio and the largest and best-known, Elba, where Napoleon was exiled. The hotel can arrange excursions for guests.

FIND OUT MORE ³ L’ANDANA RESORT Tenuta La Badiola, Località Badiola 58043 Castiglione della Pescaia, Grosseto, Tuscany www.andana.it Rooms at L’Andana cost from €440 per night based on two people sharing on a B&B basis. See website for offers.

GETTING THERE ³ BY PLANE AND CAR L’Andana is 135 km from Pisa airport – around 1¼ hours by car. From Florence airport, it takes around 2 hours. ³ BY TRAIN Grosseto railway station is 20km away. Take the tram from Pisa airport to Pisa Centrale. The direct train to Grosseto takes about 90 minutes.

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Sicily’ s SWEET SPOT

Mary Novakovich explores eastern Sicily’s Val di Noto – where the ﬁrst stop is Modica, Italy’s capital of chocolate…

56 ITALIA! February 2020

y first sighting of Modica made me stop in my tracks. I had to get out of the car and take in the view properly – a narrow valley stacked tightly with baroque houses that somehow managed to cling to the steep surfaces without tumbling down. What was once a river is Corso Umberto I, the principal thoroughfare that glides past the palazzi, shops, grand civic buildings and the considerably grander church of San Pietro. Not that I could make out those details from my viewpoint above. I was on my way to Casa Talía, a boutique B&B that commands a

confusing maze of stepped alleyways that zigzag their way down to Corso Umberto. And then they go up again, just as confusingly, through Modica Alta by way of its spectacular Duomo di San Giorgio. Unless you’re a StairMaster fanatic, the pace here always has to be a leisurely one. SPANISH RULE All those steps certainly keep you fit, which is just as well considering one of Modica’s claims to fame. It’s Italy’s capital of chocolate, a legacy from the days of 17th-century Spanish rule when conquistadors imported the Aztecs’ method of making chocolate.

Clockwise from right: The Modica chocolate museum features all manner of unusual exhibits; view of Modica from Modica Alta; Modica from Casa Talía; the city at night; four more exhibits from the chocolate museum; a relief map of Italy at the chocolate museum; Ignazio Iacono in the Caffè dell’Arte mini museum; (below) Duomo San Giorgio; Modica from the Casa Talía gardens

Modica chocolate comes pretty much as pure as chocolate can get Modica chocolate is unlike any other in Italy – it’s just ground cocoa paste and sugar, along with whatever flavourings are added. There’s no sign of cocoa butter or milk, and you won’t find preservatives, vegetable oils or emulsifiers either. Modica chocolate comes pretty much as pure as chocolate can get. Although production methods have moved on, until very recently the chocolate was made by grinding cocoa beans on a metate. This ridged stone board in a concave shape is then heated over coals before sugar is added. Because the sugar doesn’t

Images by Adam Batterbee

superb position overlooking Modica Alta, the larger, denser side of the valley. From the terrace of our room, I had one of the best views of the city. I could see why the architect owners, Marco Giunta and Viviana Haddad, turned their backs on Milan in 2001 and decided to turn a series of derelict stone houses one by one into this exquisite place. Casa Talía’s slogan, aptly, is “slowliving”. It’s hard to do anything at speed in Modica, at least in the historic part of it. All of these houses stacked nearly on top of each other are connected by a

February 2020 ITALIA! 57

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WHERE TO EAT FICHERA 7117 DABBANNA Piazza Principe di Napoli 8/9 97015 Modica www.fichera7117.it Seasonal menu cooked Slow Food-style in this family-run restaurant, with dishes including pasta with guanciale, pistachio and confit tomato. RISTORANTE LOCANDA DON SERAFINO Via Avvocato Giovanni Ottaviano 13 97100 Ragusa Ibla www.locandadonserafino.it Two-Michelin-starred chef Vincenzo Candiano offers a six-course tasting menu that changes with the seasons and balances between meat and seafood. CAFFÈ DELL’ARTE Corso Umberto I 114, 97015 Modica www.caffedellarte.it Here, and along this the road, notably at Pasticceria di Lorenzo, you will have the chance to try Modica chocolate at its best.

fully melt, the chocolate’s texture is a bit gritty. For some it’s an acquired taste. For me, it was an instant hit. When typically Sicilian flavours are added – pistachio, orange, fennel, lemon, nutmeg, chilli or cinnamon – the result is a richness that’s utterly satisfying. This page, clockwise from top left: Wall display at the Modica chocolate museum; Modica fennel-ﬂavoured chocolate from Pasticceria di Lorenzo; Locanda Don Seraﬁno, Ragusa

CIOCCOLATO MODICA I was discovering its history at the Modica Chocolate Museum, which features such oddities as an enormous relief map of Italy made from chocolate as well as chocolate portraits of Pink Floyd. It’s also the office of the chocolate consortium Cioccolato

di Parma and Modena vinegar. “It’s in the chromosomes of the Modicani,” said Nino, grinning. After a tantalising tasting in the museum, it was time to do a little tour of the chocolate producers – all conveniently located on Corso Umberto. At Caffè dell’Arte, I met Ignazio Iacono, who took me to a cave-like laboratory behind the café where they used to make chocolate until about ten years ago. It’s now set up like a little museum, with a metate and a rolling pin (made from Mount Etna lava stone, no less) set up over coals. At Pasticceria di Lorenzo, I chatted to Carmelo di Lorenzo,

In 2018, cioccolato di Modica became the first chocolate in Italy to be given IGP status Modica. Its director, Nino Scivoletto, told me that when the consortium was set up in 2010, there were only 14 producers. Now there are 43, and the production has similarly shot up from €400,000 to €13m. (That’s only among the consortium’s producers.) And in 2018, cioccolato di Modica became the first chocolate in Italy to be given IGP status, joining Prosciutto 58 ITALIA! February 2020

a chocolate-maker since the age of 14 and following in the family footsteps. He came up with the idea of adding fennel to chocolate, whose flavour I found immediately addictive. The atmosphere was lively, helped by the jolly chatter between Carmelo and his staff – mostly family members. As Modica’s reputation for chocolate grows, so does its tourist

numbers – also fuelled by coach tours of Inspector Montalbano filming locations in the city. Nino Scivoletto estimated that tourism has shot up by about 200 per cent in the past five years. One of the most popular chocolate shops on the tourist trail is Modica’s oldest, Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, which opened in 1880. It’s not in the consortium, but its steady stream of visitors showed business was booming. In search of something a little more savoury, I turned off Corso Umberto into Via Marchesa Tedeschi. I was drawn by the cheerful terrace of Dabbanna, a family-run restaurant that handled Sicilian cuisine with a delicate touch. In its white, fresh interior, a mixed starter of mini arancini, caponata, salumi and cheese whetted the appetite for the main course – a beautifully roasted rabbit. SLOW EXPLORATION As an introduction to the baroque towns of eastern Sicily’s Val di Noto, Modica set the bar high. I was heading towards the coast to Relais Torre Marabino, my base for a slow exploration of this region of UNESCO-listed towns and olive-studded landscapes. Resembling a Saracen tower, but infinitely more comfortable, Torre Marabino is surrounded by acres of farmland whose organic products – olives, vegetables, honey, jams, Nero d’Avola wine – end up on the plate in the restaurant. Relaxed yet convivial, the hotel had a laid-back ambience that was enhanced by lazy swims in the pool and strolls round landscaped gardens. From here it was a short drive to Noto, one of the most appealing

Clockwise from top right: Street scene in Noto; exploring the Vendicari nature reserve; the swimming pool at Torre Marabino; the tonnara of Vendicari; signpost in the Vendicari nature reserve; the Duomo of Noto

stops in this region of towns that had to be rebuilt after the devastating earthquake of 1693. It seems you can’t have too much of this particular good thing – ie, Sicilian Baroque. Walking past the tree-shaded market stalls along Corso Vittorio Emanuele, I entered through the imposing Porta Reale and carried on along this immensely attractive thoroughfare. Its centrepiece is Piazza del Municipio, with the twin-towered 18th-century Duomo vying for attention with the town hall, the Palazzo Ducezio. Tempting as it was to stop for lunch, instead I grabbed a takeaway bag of arancini and drove to the coastal Vendicari nature reserve. Only ten kilometres from Noto, yet a world away: a serene, sprawling landscape of marshes, dunes, lagoons, sandy beaches and hides from which to watch flamingos, storks and herons float by. I followed the herb-scented paths to the remains of a 19th-century

tonnara, a tuna-fishing village whose brick columns had the air of ancient Greek ruins. A low wall overlooking a small sandy beach was a lovely spot for my arancini picnic lunch. DOUBLE THE BAROQUE After my little bucolic interlude, I felt I was ready to be swept away by yet more baroque opulence. Hilltop Ragusa was just the place for this: a two-part town with double the baroque. Ragusa Ibla, the original, lower town, is the more picturesque of the two parts: a jumble of narrow lanes and alleyways that almost haphazardly lead to the elegant Piazza Duomo and the impressive church of San Giorgio. As I discovered, it’s a place for slow ambles along limestone pavements, wondering what the next lane would lead to. I found myself on the westernmost side in the cooling landscaped paths of the Giardino Ibleo, which came with panoramic views of the hills and the valley below. February 2020 ITALIA! 59

DISCOVER ITALIA!

BEST OF THE REST: OTHER ITALIAN CHOCOLATE PRODUCERS ³ VENCHI, TURIN Chocolatier Silvano Venchi set up his company in Turin in the late 19th century, making three-layered cremini, nougatines and gianduiotto from the local Piemontese hazelnuts. In October 2004, Venchi’s Chocaviar (cocoa granules encased in a chocolate shell) was awarded the Vassoio d’Oro Award at the EuroChocolate festival in Perugia. uk.venchi.com

³ PERUGINA, PERUGIA The Perugina company was founded in Perugia, Umbria at the turn of the 20th century. Opening its first store in Italy in 1919, it launched its iconic ‘Baci’ in 1922, which made use of surplus hazelnuts and chocolate from their manufacturing process. From the 1930s each tender treat was wrapped in a tiny billet-doux – a sentimental love note or saying – and the rest as they say, is history… www.perugina.com ³ FERRERO, PIEDMONT Another company with a mass-market appeal, Ferrero is renowned for its hazelnut and gianduia ‘Rochers’, and is also responsible for the moreish Nutella spread and the Kinder chocolate range, for kids of all ages. www.ferrero.com

Clocking Ragusa’s very stylish air, I wasn’t too surprised to learn that the city had two restaurants with two Michelin stars. Dinner was at one of them, Locanda Don Serafino, which I discovered was in a different place from the Relais & Chateaux hotel to which it belongs. Set on the hillside below Ibla, the restaurant is in an atmospheric cave and serves some of the most beautiful food to be found in Sicily. If there’s one thing you need to try, it’s the black spaghetti with sea urchins, cuttlefish and ricotta. Quite simply, divine. ORTIGIA FOOD MARKET Somewhat less exalted but still utterly delicious was the food market at Ortigia I explored the following day. Dangling from the end of Siracusa, connected by a bridge, Ortigia is the ancient city’s heart, an enchanting collection of Baroque palaces and townhouses, regal squares, Greek ruins and a few swimming areas tucked into coves. I kept finding myself back along Via de Benedictis browsing the food stalls and delis, unable to resist a delightful plate of oysters and a nice glass of frizzante. Savouring the taste of the sea, I was ready to add yet another layer to my burgeoning collection of Sicilian flavours. A dish of pasta alla Norma here – with smoky aubergines topped with even smokier ricotta – and a plate of tagliatelle with pistachio pesto there, plus that wonderful fennel-infused chocolate from Modica and those unforgettable sea urchins. They all added up to a feast that revealed the very best that Sicily has to offer. 60 ITALIA! February 2020

³ AMEDEI, TUSCANY A relative newcomer to the roll call of artisan chocolatiers in Italy, Amedei was founded in 1990 by Cecilia Tessieri. Located in Pontedera in Tuscany, their bean-to-bar products range from chocolate bars to truffles and pralines, and delicious chocolate spreads, strictly for grown-ups! www.amedei.it

Clockwise from top left: Ragusa Ibla, the lower, original part of town; Fratelli Burgio deli in Ortigia; vegetable stall and spice stall at Ortigia market; Piazza del Duomo, Ortigia; Ragusa Duomo; street scene in Ragusa Ibla

INFORMATION ³ Mary Novakovich travelled with Long Travel (www.long-travel.co.uk), which has three nights’ B&B at Casa Talía (www.casatalia.it) in Modica and four nights at Relais Torre Marabino (www. torremarabino.com) in a rural setting outside Ispica, from £794pp. The price includes flights and car hire.

EatITALIA!

Garlic and chocolate are in the spotlight (not together!) plus cocktails, tasty grissini and wines from Le Marche

CookITALIA! Cooking with Garlic Recipes full of ďŹ&#x201A;avour

p62 A Taste of Aosta Rustic dishes from the north

p66 Four Takes on Chocolate Treat yourself to these indulgent desserts

p71 Shaken and Stirred James Bond-inspired Italian classic cocktails

p76

BuyITALIA! We taste grissini

p74 20 pages s of fabuloud Italian foo and drink

DrinkITALIA! Wines from Le Marche

p79

February 2020 ITALIA! 61

COOK ITALIA!

COOKING WITH GARLIC Tasty recipes using classic ingredients by Jenny Linford, and each one warmed with the addition of garlic

Allowing plenty of time for your meat to come up to room temperature will ensure that it cooks evenly

62 ITALIA! February 2020

Photography by Clare Winﬁeld © Ryland Peters & Small

Rosemary, garlic and fennel roast pork Maiale arrosto con rosmarino, aglio e ﬁnocchio ³ SERVES 4-6 ³ PREPARATION 20 minutes ³ COOKING 2 hours Fragrant rosemary, aromatic fennel and tasty garlic combine to good effect in this simple but flavourful roast pork dish. X X X X

1.8kg pork loin, skin scored for crackling, chined 1 tbsp fennel seeds salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp olive oil

X X

2 garlic cloves, peeled and cut into slivers 3-4 rosemary sprigs, chopped into short pieces

1 Bring the pork to room temperature. Preheat the oven to 220°C/Gas Mark 7. Dry-fry the fennel seeds until fragrant, then cool and finely grind. 2 Pat the pork dry with paper towels. Season with salt and plenty of pepper, rubbing the salt into the skin. Rub the pork with the ground fennel, then cut small incisions in the flesh. Rub the flesh with olive oil, then insert the garlic slivers and rosemary into the incisions. Place the pork in a roasting pan. 3 Roast the pork for 15 minutes in the preheated oven, then reduce the oven temperature to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 and roast for a further 1½ hours until cooked through. Set aside to rest in a warm place for 20 minutes before carving. Serve with the roasting juices. TIP The chine is a tough cut of meat which is usually removed in supermarket meat but may need to be trimmed if you bought your pork from the butcher. You can ask your butcher to do this for you.

Risotto nero with garlic prawns Risotto nero con gamberi all’aglio ³ SERVES 4 ³ PREPARATION 20 minutes ³ COOKING 20 minutes A well-made risotto is always a treat. Black rice, cooked with squid ink and ﬂavoured with ﬁsh stock, combined with pink prawns makes a striking dish – one which tastes as good as it looks and is ideal for dinner parties. X X X X

X X X X X

X X

1 litre good-quality or homemade fish stock 3 tbsp olive oil 1 shallot, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, 2 peeled and finely chopped and 1 peeled but left whole 200g squid, cleaned and chopped into small pieces 8g sachet of squid ink 350g risotto rice 50ml dry white wine 25g butter 12 raw tiger prawns, heads removed, peeled and deveined salt chopped fresh parsley, to garnish

1 Bring the ﬁsh stock to a simmer in a large pan. 2 Heat 2 tbsp of the olive oil in a separate, heavy-based saucepan. Add the shallot and chopped garlic and fry gently, stirring, until the shallot has softened. Add the squid and fry, continuing to stir, until whitened and opaque. Mix in the squid ink. Stir in the rice. Pour over the wine and cook, stirring, until reduced. 3 Add a ladleful of the simmering stock to the rice and cook, stirring, until absorbed. Repeat the process until all the stock has been added and the rice is cooked through. Taste and season with salt as needed. Stir in the butter and set aside to rest brieﬂy. 4 Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan. Once frothing, add the whole garlic clove and fry, stirring, until fragrant. Add the prawns with a pinch of salt and fry, stirring, until the prawns have turned pink and opaque and are cooked through. Discard the garlic clove. 5 Serve each portion of the risotto rice topped with prawns and garnished with chopped fresh parsley.

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COOK ITALIA!

Italian sausages with garlic lentils Salsiccia con lenticchie all’aglio ³ SERVES 4 ³ PREPARATION 15 minutes ³ COOKING 1 hour Sausages and lentils make the perfect partners. This is an easy, filling meal full of robust flavours – comfort food Italian style! If possible, use fresh Italian pork sausages, which are often flavoured with garlic and fennel, as their texture and taste work well with the lentils. X X X X X X X X X X X X

400g Castelluccio or Puy lentils, rinsed 1 carrot, finely diced 300ml red wine 1 litre cold water 3 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole 1 fresh bay leaf 3 fresh sage leaves ½ tbsp vegetable oil 8 Italian sausages (or good-quality meaty sausages) 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 4 tbsp freshly chopped parsley salt

Italian-style garlic spinach Spinaci all’aglio ³ SERVES 4 as a side dish ³ PREPARATION 10 minutes ³ COOKING 10 minutes An elegant and easy vegetable dish, this garlicky spinach makes the perfect accompaniment for red meats such as roast lamb or beef, but could also be served as a vegetarian course with nuts and/or seeds. X X X X X

500g fresh large leaf spinach, rinsed 2 tbsp olive oil 1 garlic clove, peeled and left whole a squeeze of fresh lemon juice salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Place the spinach in a large, heavy-based pan and season with salt. Cover and cook for a few minutes until the spinach has just wilted (no need to add extra water). 2 Drain in a colander, pressing with a spatula to squeeze out excess moisture. Then roughly chop, but not too much. 3 Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan. Add the garlic and fry, stirring, until browned on all sides. Remove and discard the garlic. 4 Add the chopped spinach to the pan and fry in the garlic oil, turning gently to coat it thoroughly. Season to taste, add a light squeeze of lemon juice and serve at once. TIP It is important to make sure you have squeezed as much moisture out of the spinach as you can after you have wilted it, or it will spit when you add it to the hot olive oil. The lemon juice will add a little zing to the dish and also help to bring out the lovely green colour of the spinach.

64 ITALIA! February 2020

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6. Place a roasting pan into the oven and leave it to heat up. 2 Place the rinsed lentils and diced carrot in a large saucepan. Add the red wine, water, garlic, bay leaf and sage. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 20-25 minutes until the lentils are tender but retain some texture. Add salt to the lentils to season, then drain. 3 While the lentils are cooking, heat the vegetable oil in a large frying pan. Add the sausages and brown quickly on all sides. Transfer the browned sausages to the preheated roasting pan and bake in the oven for 20-25 minutes until cooked through. 4 Pick out and discard the bay leaf and sage leaves from the lentils. Mash the garlic cloves. Toss the cooked lentils with the mashed garlic, olive oil and parsley. Top with the sausages and serve at once. TIP Castelluccio lentils are grown on the Castelluccio plain in Umbria, in the lee of the Sibillini mountains. It is important to use these (or Puy lentils) as these will not disintegrate during the lengthy cooking process.

Use a good red wine that you like to drink in the cooking of this hearty dish

These recipes are taken from Garlic by Jenny Linford, published by Ryland Peters & Small. RRP £14.99. Photography by Clare Winfield © Ryland Peters & Small

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COOK ITALIA!

Tastes of

AOSTA Mario Matassa leads us into the world of Aostan cuisine, which sets itself apart from traditional Italy by shunning pasta in favour of gnocchi, polenta and rice

osta is Italy’s smallest region, a valley nestled in the cradle of the Alps, bordering France and Switzerland to the north and Piedmont to the south. It’s a land of pine-covered mountains, stone-roofed wooden chalets, fairytale castles, welcoming taverns, warming restaurants and, of course, the snowcovered peak of Monte Bianco. The region’s neighbours make their presence felt in the local cuisine, but, that said, Aostan cuisine has a style and character all of its own. It’s a cuisine that bears little resemblance to the commonly held image of the Italian table – to begin with, olive oil and pasta hardly get a look in here. A robust and simple mountain diet dominates, based on cheese and meat, dark rye breads, hardy vegetables, potatoes, polenta, gnocchi (which is as close as you are going to get to pasta), rice and thick, rustic soups. Wherever you go in the Valle d’Aosta the jingling sound of cow bells seems to follow you. It’s a sure sign of one of the mainstays of the local cuisine: the area is famed for its cheeses, with milk drawn from cows that graze freely most of the year round on luscious mountain pastures. There’s a saying here: “Fresh cheese has three fundamental qualities: it cuts the hunger, it cuts the thirst, and it cleans the palate.” Toma, robiola and, above all, fontina are the most popular. The lesser known Valle d’Aosta fromadzo, an aged cow’s milk cheese, has been made in the valley since the early 15th century. When not eaten on its own, cheese features in many local traditional dishes, usually melted. It’s also added to thick soups (locally called seuppe) made from hearty vegetables, wild mushrooms, chestnuts and almonds. Meat specialities include carbonade, a beef stew, and cotoletta alla valdostana, a veal cutlet coated in breadcrumbs, fried in butter and finished with melted fontina cheese. Among the most reputed local meat products are jambon de Bosses, a sweet tasting cured ham, and lardo d’Arnad, which is every bit as good as its better known Tuscan counterpart, lardo di Colonnata. Mocetta, a cured mountain goat ham, is also popular.

66 ITALIA! February 2020

Aosta’s food reﬂects its mountains

Chestnuts with lardo d’Arnad and rye bread Castagne con lardo d’Arnad e pane nero ³ SERVES 4 ³ PREPARATION 10 minutes ³ COOKING none Lardo is often confused, and therefore dismissed, with lard. It is in fact a cured and spiced pork fat, very delicate in flavour and a true delicacy of Italian cuisine. It should be bought thinly sliced and kept in the fridge until ready to use. X X X X X X

8 slices rye bread 150g lardo d’Arnad 125g cooked chestnuts 1 sprig of rosemary freshly ground black pepper 3 tbsp honey

Recipes and photography by Mario Matassa unless otherwise stated

1 Place a few slices of rye bread on four serving plates. Top each slice of bread with a few slices of lardo. 2 Roughly chop the chestnuts and the rosemary and sprinkle them over the lardo. Finish with a grind of black pepper and a drizzle of honey to taste. Serve immediately.

February 2020 ITALIA! 67

COOK ITALIA!

Valdostana cabbage soup Zuppa alla valdostana ³ SERVES 4 ³ PREPARATION 10 minutes ³ COOKING 1 hour This soup comes from cucina povera, a phrase which we might translate as ‘peasant cooking’. Made with hardy cabbage, like ribollita it is a twicecooked soup, but the addition of fontina cheese gives it a further depth of flavour. Locals eat this as a first course, but it is substantial enough to be a plate in its own right. X X X X X X

1 small cabbage unsalted butter ½ a day-old loaf of rustic-style bread 200g fontina cheese, grated freshly ground black pepper 1 litre chicken or vegetable stock

1 Wash and slice the cabbage and boil for 7-8 minutes until tender. Drain, add a knob of butter and set aside. 2 Slice the bread and place a layer of it on the bottom of an ovenproof dish. 3 Place a layer of cooked cabbage on top and then a layer of cheese. Season with pepper and repeat, adding the second layer with the remaining ingredients. 4 Add the stock, then place the dish into a preheated oven at 160°C/Gas Mark 3 for 30 minutes until golden on top.

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COOK ITALIA!

Veal chop with fontina cheese Costoletta alla valdostana ³ SERVES 4 ³ PREPARATION 15 minutes ³ COOKING 12 minutes This is served in practically every restaurant in the region but it’s important to avoid touristy establishments and find a restaurant that does it well. The veal chops need to be evenly coated and fried in hot butter, and there should be enough cheese to coat the meat, not drown it. X X X X X

4 veal chops on the bone 1 beaten free-range egg 100g fine breadcrumbs unsalted butter 150g fontina cheese in slices

1 Place the veal chops on a chopping board and ﬂatten out slightly with a heavy meat mallet. Trim off any excess fat. Dip the chops into the beaten egg and then into the breadcrumbs to coat. 2 Add a generous knob of butter to a large heavy-based frying pan and cook the chops for approximately 3 minutes on each side until golden. 3 Transfer the chops to an ovenproof dish and top with the slices of cheese. Place in a preheated oven at 180°C/ Gas Mark 4 for 5 minutes until the cheese has melted. Serve immediately with boiled new potatoes.

THERE’S MORE! If you like these savoury recipes, turn to page 71 for a delicious dessert to round off your Aosta feast

70 ITALIA! February 2020

Illustration © Getty Images

COOK ITALIA!

Crunchy almond & raspberry cake with dark chocolate

Coffee ice cream

Florentine biscuits

takes on 4 CHOCOLATE Crema di Cogne

Spoil yourself with these indulgent chocolate desserts and bakes – perfect for Valentine’s Day (or any other day!)

February 2020 ITALIA! 71

COOK ITALIA!

Crunchy almond and raspberry cake with dark chocolate Torta croccante alle mandorle e lamponi con cioccolato fondente

Coffee ice cream Gelato al caffè ³ SERVES 10 ³ PREPARATION 10 minutes plus cooling and freezing ³ COOKING none X X

³ SERVES 10 ³ PREPARATION 10 minutes ³ BAKING 60-65 minutes

X X

X X X X

Thousands of recipes can be found at www.waitrose.com/recipes

X X X X

175g butter, at room temperature 175g golden caster sugar 3 medium Waitrose British Blacktail Free Range Eggs 150g self-raising flour 75g ground almonds 150g Doria Amaretti Biscuits, crumbled 50g dark chocolate, roughly chopped 200g raspberries mascarpone, to serve

1 Grease and base line a 20cm loose-bottomed cake tin. Preheat the oven to 160ºC/Gas Mark 3. Using electric beaters, whisk together the butter, sugar, eggs, ﬂour and almonds until smooth and creamy. 2 Carefully fold in two-thirds each of the biscuits, chocolate and raspberries, and spoon into the prepared tin. Scatter the remaining biscuits, raspberries and chocolate on top. Bake for 60-65 minutes, or until risen, golden brown and set. Leave the tin for 5 minutes then lift out and leave to cool completely. Slice and serve with a spoonful of mascarpone. TIP Any leftovers can be kept in the fridge for up to two days and are delicious served chilled.

72 ITALIA! February 2020

Thousands of recipes can be found at www.waitrose.com/recipes

3 tbsp Lavazza Caffè Espresso 600ml double cream 397g can essential Waitrose Condensed Milk 50g dark chocolate, finely chopped, plus extra to serve 4 Lotus Biscoff Caramelised Biscuits, crushed into fine crumbs

1 Make the coffee to give 150ml strong espresso and leave to cool. Meanwhile, place the cream and condensed milk in a large bowl and using an electric whisk, beat for 5 minutes or so until the mixture forms soft peaks. 2 Whisk in the cooled espresso and the chopped chocolate and spoon into a rigid container. Scatter over the biscuit crumbs and a little more chopped chocolate. 3 Freeze overnight until ﬁrm. Transfer to the fridge for 15-20 minutes before scooping and serving in espresso cups. TIP Try serving this as a classic affogato, a traditional Italian dessert. Serve the ice cream in a small cup with a shot of hot espresso on the side to pour over.

Florentine biscuits Biscotti ﬁorentini

Crema di Cogne Crema di Cogne

³ MAKES 15-18 ³ PREPARATION 10 minutes ³ BAKING 15 minutes

³ SERVES 4 ³ PREPARATION 5 mins plus chilling ³ COOKING 15 mins

X X X X X X

Recipe and image © Mario Matassa

40g unsalted butter 75g caster sugar 30g plain flour 4 tbsp double cream 55g mixed nuts, roughly chopped 55g flaked almonds 90g mixed chopped candied peel 150g plain chocolate

1 Preheat the oven to 190ºC/Gas Mark 5. Start by melting the butter, sugar and ﬂour together in a pan over a very gentle heat. Once the butter has completely melted, add the cream and stir in thoroughly. Next, add all of the other ingredients apart from the chocolate. Stir everything together well. 2 Place heaped teaspoons of the mixture on a lined baking tray and press down lightly to ﬂatten. Be sure to leave at least 2-3cm between each biscuit, as they spread during baking. Place the baking tray in the oven and bake for 7-10 minutes. Keep an eye on the biscuits as they will burn very quickly. Once the edges are nicely golden, they are ready. Leave the biscuits to cool on the baking tray for 5 minutes before attempting to move them onto a cooling rack as they are very delicate at this stage. 3 Finally, melt the chocolate over a bain-marie and, when smooth, use a spoon to coat the back of the Florentines in chocolate. The biscuits will stay fresh for about one week in an airtight container.

X X X X X X

Recipe and image © Mario Matassa

4 medium free-range egg yolks 200g caster sugar 1 tbsp dark cocoa powder 250ml single cream 250ml whole milk 50g dark chocolate, grated

1 Place the egg yolks and half the sugar into a large bowl. Whisk together until light and foamy. Add the cocoa powder, cream, milk and grated dark chocolate and stir together. Pour everything into a heavy-based saucepan and cook over a medium heat, stirring continuously until it thickens. 2 In the meantime, add the remaining sugar together with 2 tbsp of water into another saucepan. Place over a medium heat and cook until it caramelizes – this will take the same amount of time as the cream. Once the cream has thickened, remove from the heat and add the caramel. Keep stirring for another minute until the mix is well incorporated. 3 Pour the chocolate cream into four serving dishes and set aside to cool slightly before placing in a fridge to chill. Serve chilled with tegole biscuits, which are traditional almond and hazelnut biscuits from the Valle d’Aosta. TIP This dessert completes the Aosta menu served up on page 66. The dish originated in Cogne and is almost always served with tegole, thin, crisp biscuits made with egg whites, hazelnuts and almonds, widely available throughout the region. The tradition likely stems from the fact that to make a batch of tegole requires egg whites, which are always to hand after making the crema.

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BUY ITALIA!

ITALIAN GRISSINI

A staple of the Italian dinner table, grissini are light, crispy breadsticks – the perfect snack or start to a meal

’S CHO

LIA! E

rissini have been a staple Italian snack for hundreds of years. They are offered in restaurants throughout Italy and have recently become popular abroad too. The legend says that this savoury breadstick was created in Turin in the late 1600s to help an ailing young duke. The poor young man couldn’t keep any food down, so his doctor ordered something baked that he could digest. These long, crisp breadsticks were the result. They are baked in two variations, stirati (straight) and rubatà (handrolled), and various flavours can DITOR be added, including coarse salt, FEB sesame or poppy seeds, and dried 2020 herbs. Grissini dough is identical to bread, but made with extravirgin olive oil for a crisper, more flavoursome result.

ICE ITA

EDITOR’S CHOICE CROSTA & MOLLICA BLACK OLIVE GRISSINI From Crosta & Mollica www.crostamollica.co.uk Price £1.95 for 140g Made in an artisan bakery in Italy, these rubatà and rustic grissini are slender wands with a distinctive crunchy texture. Coated with polenta and extra-virgin olive oil for a richer ﬂavour, they are suitable for vegetarians and perfect as a classic Italian aperitivo snack. Hand-twisted, these traditional breadsticks are also baked with a generous sprinkle of black Taggiasca olives. Tastewise, they enjoy a delicate balance between salt and olive oil, which is delicious and dangerously moreish. Alongside this ﬂavoursome quality, these tasty sticks pack a croccante punch that will soon have you reaching out for another one.

VERDICT +++++ Wrap these rubatà grissini in ﬁne slices of prosciutto for an authentic Italian merenda. Or snap in half, inhale the rich olive aroma and enjoy them unadorned!

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2 LE VENEZIANE BUON PIEMONTESI MINI GRISSINI ROSEMARY GRISSINI From Molino di Ferro 1

From Ocado www.ocado.com Price £3.85 for 180g Fragrant with rosemary, these super-size grissini are artisanmade in Piedmont using rice oil instead of extra-virgin olive oil. It gives them a lighter texture which works well with the aromatic rosemary.

www.molinodiferro.com Price £3.99 for 250g Made entirely from maize ﬂour, these mini breadsticks are gluten-free. The ﬂavour notes of extra-virgin olive oil infuse these little sticks, which are light and airy with a very pleasing crunch to them. Very moreish.

VERDICT ++++

A perfect take on grissini, these are light but crispy, savoury but satisfying. The ideal appetiser for an Italian-style evening.

These gluten-free snacks might seem expensive, but you get a lot of them for the money. A delicious appetiser for everyone!

CARLUCCIO’S STUZZICHINI AL MAIS

MARKS & SPENCER TORINESI BREADSTICKS

From Carluccio’s www.carluccios.com Price £2.50 for 150g The combination of grains gives a texture that’s so light it’s almost crumbly in the mouth. The crusty polenta coating adds a pleasing depth of crunch and an extra layer of subtle ﬂavour.

From Marks & Spencer www.marksandspencer.com Price £1.00 for 125g Baked in Piedmont, these traditional grissini are thin, delicately toasted at each end, and twisted with a baguette-style cut down the middle. Crisp and ﬂavoursome but not over-salted.

MR ORGANIC CLASSIC GRISSINI 5

From Abel and Cole www.abelandcole.co.uk Price £2.60 for 150g Hand-rolled in Liguria by the Mastri Fornai master bakers, these polenta-coated sticks are made with extra-virgin olive oil for an extra richness of ﬂavour. They are ﬂattened rather than rounded, which makes them a bit different.

ORGANICO GRISSINI CLASSICO 6

From Ocado

www.ocado.com Price £2.05 for 120g These grissini are made in Cuneo and rolled by hand. Robust and chunky, they strike a delicate balance between the salt and the fragrant olive oil, and are really rather delicious.

VERDICT ++++

VERDICT +++

VERDICT ++++

VERDICT +++

These savoury maize and wheat breadsticks are super-crunchy – but they do break easily, so keep them in an airtight tin.

The mild ﬂavour is an indicator that the grissini are light on seasoning – great if you’re looking to cut down your salt intake.

Savoury and packed with plemty of rustic ﬂavour, these are delicious. Perfect with a Negroni or cheeky prosecco.

You won’t get too many grissini in the bag, but they are very ﬁlling. Very satisfying to serve with pre-dinner drinks.

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DRINK ITALIA!

SHAKEN AND STIRRED

Classic martini Martini Cocktail ³ PREPARATION 5 minutes As synonymous with the James Bond franchise as innuendos, ludicrous stunts and always getting the girl, the Martini will forever be associated with 007.

Bored with bubbles at aperitivo time? Kick off the evening with these sophisticated Italian classics from Katherine Bebo’s new book, Bond Cocktails

76 ITALIA! February 2020

X X X

75ml Martini Extra Dry, well chilled gin or vodka an olive or lemon twist, to garnish

1 Add the vermouth and the gin or vodka to a mixing glass ﬁlled with ice and stir. 2 Strain into a chilled martini glass and garnish with an olive or lemon twist.

Negroni Negroni

X X X X

25ml Tanqueray No. Ten gin 25ml Campari 25ml Martini Rosso vermouth a slice of lemon (or grapefruit), to garnish

Âł PREPARATION 5 minutes In Thunderball, after Bond has disarmed a goon with a gun, he rewards himself with a Negroni. He also orders himself this drink in Ian Flemingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s short story Risico.

1 Stir all the ingredients over cubed ice for 60 seconds, then strain into a chilled rocks glass with cubed ice (or use a large hand-cracked piece of ice). 2 Garnish with the lemon (or grapefruit) to serve.

February 2020 ITALIA! 77

DRINK ITALIA!

Americano Americano ³ PREPARATION 5 minutes The first cocktail to appear in the Bond books, this refreshing blend of bitter and sweet is topped with soda to make the ideal thirst-quencher on a summer’s day. X X X X

25ml Campari 25ml sweet vermouth soda water, to top up an orange slice, to garnish

1 Build the ingredients over ice in a highball glass, then stir and serve with an orange slice.

These recipes come from Bond Cocktails by Katherine Bebo, published by Ryland Peters & Small, RRP £7.99

78 ITALIA! February 2020

DRINK ITALIA!

WINES FROM LE MARCHE This central region offers a veritable treasure trove of wines that are not as well known as they deserve to be. Prepare to be impressed by our selection of reds and whites this month

ituated in central Italy, just across the Apennines from Tuscany, Le Marche is the home of several white grape varieties, like Pecorino and Passerina, but the jewel in the white crown is Verdicchio, which has been grown here since the Middle Ages. With an abundance of fruit and a pleasing hint of almond bitterness, this elegant dry wine deserves to be better known as it has a depth of delicate citrussy ﬂavour that’s more than a match for its northern cousin, the ubiquitous Pinot Grigio.

These are wines that deserve more recognition on a wider stage, and you won’t be disappointed There’s a lot of variety in terms of grape types used in the red wines of Le Marche too, and it’s difficult to generalize on how they taste. The region offers something for everyone – lovers of lighter styles will delight in wines made with the relatively rare Lacrima grapes, whereas if you like your wines big and bold then look out for the local Sangiovese or Montepulciano di Abruzzo (yes, also grown in Le Marche with superb results), or how about Rosso Conero or Piceno, which we have taken a look at overleaf. There should be no hesitation in plumping for a wine from Le Marche next time you are making a choice, and they are keenly priced too – these are wines that deserve more recognition on a wider stage, and you won’t be disappointed. Do try them yourself and let us know what you think. February 2020 ITALIA! 79

DRINK ITALIA!

FAZI BATTAGLIA PASSO DEL LUPO, ROSSO CONERO

DISCOVERY OF THE MONTH ROCCASTELLA OFFIDA PECORINO 2016 From Corney and Barrow www.corneyandbarrow.com Price £11.25 Thought to be extinct, the Pecorino grape was found in an overgrown Le Marche vineyard and is now a popular planting for local producers. This wine has a complexity unusual for a white wine, with zesty citrus aromas and ripe peach and crisp orchard fruits on the palate. The spicy notes and balanced minerality round it off perfectly.

NTH D

From Great Western Wine www.greatwesternwine.co.uk Price £18.95 This Massaccio is a gem. A wonderfully concentrated expression of Verdicchio, it demonstrates the versatility of this grape very well. With its straw-yellow hue, there is delicate elderﬂower on the nose, and soft peach with the snap of green apples on the palate. Crisp, complex and well-balanced, it ﬁnishes with notes of the grape’s signature almond bitterness.

O RY F T

O ISC VE

From Great Western Wine www.greatwesternwine.co.uk Price £14.95 This Rosso Conero comes from the Fazi Battiglia vineyards on the slopes of Monte Conero, near Ancona. A skilful blend of 85 per cent Montepulciano and 15 per cent Sangiovese, this garnetred wine has a bouquet of cherries and red berries, and brims with redcurrant and tart cranberry fruit on the palate. Medium-bodied, it is balanced by supple tannins and a gentle acidity. Well rounded on the ﬁnish, this is a ﬁne red wine to be savoured.

FAZI BATTAGLIA MASSACCIO VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE

FEB 2020 HE MO

80 ITALIA! February 2020

GREAT WITH…

At 13 per cent ABV, this wine is characterful enough for cured meats, prosciutto and any kind of antipasti.

With beautifully slowcooked red meats and game such as venison.

Try with creamy or smoked ﬁsh dishes, scallops, or drink on its own.

LIDL VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO From Lidl www.lidl.co.uk Price £5.25 The first you notice about this bottle is its price, but don’t take that as an indication of its quality. Definitely worth seeking out if you can, it’s golden in colour with a delicate minerally nose and just a hint of elderflower. On the palate it is bursting with fruit, but no hint of sweetness: a dry, crisp wine with a bitter almond finish. A well-balanced, elegant Verdicchio which offers great value, and ideal for drinking on its own or with food.

MAJESTIC SASSAIOLO ROSSO PICENO 2014 MONTE SCHIAVO

MONCARO VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO 2018

From Majestic Wines www.majestic.co.uk Price £8.99

From Ocado www.ocado.com Price £6.49

Rosso Piceno DOC is the largest wine producing area of Le Marche, in the provinces of Ancona, Macerata and part of Ascoli Piceno. This example is a blend of elegant, restrained Sangiovese and the juicy, fruitier Montepulciano grape. Ruby-hued, with aromas of black cherries, plums, damsons and chocolate, it’s smooth and satisfying in the mouth with plenty more forest fruits and soft tannins.

This ﬂavoursome Verdicchio is created by local Le Marche producers Moncaro from their Montecarotto vineyard in the heart of the Castelli di Jesi Classico area. Typical of a good Verdicchio, this wine is pale gold in colour, peppy citrus on the nose, and dry but satisfyingly fruity with orchard fruits on the palate. Clean, crisp and easy-drinking, it’s the perfect wine to drink with good friends.

NEXT MONTH IN

EatITALIA! CookITALIA! Cucina Siciliana Delectable Sicilian desserts

Four takes Fresh spring vegetables

Gino’s Express Gino d’Acampo’s regional dishes

Naples on a Plate Flavours from this vibrant city

BuyITALIA!

GREAT WITH…

Vegetable antipasti, or risotti or whole white ﬁsh stuffed with fennel.

Antipasti, a hearty lamb casserole or a savoury ragù served with polenta.

A great match for almost any seafood dish, or try with a light risotto.

Image from Cucina Siciliana by Ursula Ferrigno, photographer David Munns, publisher Ryland Peters & Small, www.rps.co.uk

Italian gluten-free pasta

DrinkITALIA! Nebbiolo wines

February 2020 ITALIA! 81

C O O K I TA L I A !

QUICK CONVERTER WEIGHT

SIZE

Images © iStock

We know that many of you may prefer to use imperial or US weights and measures to cook our recipes – use our handy conversion tables to translate from metric OVEN TEMPERATURES

10g

¼oz

3mm

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Gas

Description

15g

½oz

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225ºF

cool

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150g

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175g

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375ºF

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455ºF

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275g

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For fan-assisted ovens reduce temperature by 20˚C (35˚F)

300g

10½oz

10cm

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AMERICAN CUPS

VOLUME

375g

13oz

15cm

6in

Butter

1.25ml

¼ tsp

400g

14oz

17cm

6½in

1 cup

2.5ml

½ tsp

425g

15oz

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5ml

1 tsp

450g

1lb

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8in

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1 tbsp

500g

1lb 1oz

23cm

9in

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1ﬂ oz

700g

1lb 6oz

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2ﬂ oz

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100ml

3½ﬂ oz

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2lb 2oz

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Liquid

150ml

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¼ pint

1.25kg

2lb 8oz

35cm

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1 cup

250ml

8ﬂ oz

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pint

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3lb 3oz

40cm

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120ml

4ﬂ oz

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2.25kg

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700ml

1¼ pint

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6lb 6oz

850ml

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7lb 2oz

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1¾ pints

3.5kg

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1.2 litres

2 pints

82 ITALIA! February 2020

1 cup

225g 130g

8oz 4½oz

White sugar 1 cup

200g

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Dried pasta 100g

3½oz

½ pint

1 pint

Living ITALIA! Sunny Puglia is home to towns like picturesque Alberobello

Look no further for expert property advice, houses on the market, plus our handy Flight Guide to Italy

10 pages of expert advice and guidance

Homes ITALIA! Homes in Puglia Find out what this region’s property market has to offer

p 84 Property Showcase Our round-up of top properties for sale in Italy this month

p94 Flight Guide Where to ﬂy to in Italy – all the major airports

p97 February 2020 ITALIA! 83

LIVING ITALIA!

Homes in

Puglia Italy’s high heel offers fabulous weather, endless seaside, striking architecture and stunning food. The welcome is warm and the price is right. What’s not to love?, asks Fleur Kinson.

ne of the great delights of Italy is the a touch quieter and more reserved than the flamboyant remarkable diversity of its 20 official southern Italian stereotype. Certainly there’s a calm and regions. Depending on where you are orderliness to Puglia than you might not immediately in this boot-shaped nation, the cuisine, associate with, say, exuberant Naples. traditions, dialect and architecture are Puglia can be said to offer all the best things about all rather different. Puglia stands out more than most, southern Italy and few of the bad things. There’s the perhaps, when it comes to being distinctive. The land, great food and weather, the easy-going lifestyle, the light, buildings, food and local culture of this region are colourful festivals and warm, welcoming people, but at often completely unique. It’s a bit of Italy like no other. the same time there’s hardly any untidiness, crowding There’s Puglia’s special status on the map, for a start. or unemployment, and almost no crime or corruption. It’s the high heel of the Italian boot – a privileged and Puglia is a prosperous, safe and well-run sort of place, glamorous position. Being a long, with well-maintained facilities and thin peninsula, Puglia is blessed with infrastructure. Even the ground the longest coastline of any Italian underfoot behaves itself. Thanks to mainland region. In its southern a particularly benign geology, the half, the sea meets Puglia from both southern half of Puglia has fewer sides and the sky is always lit by earthquakes than any other part of bright, cheery sea-light. This bounces Italy’s boot-shaped peninsula. off the region’s curiously-shaped, whitewashed buildings and leaves you BUILDING APPEAL so dazzled and sun-drunk you begin No description of Puglia could to suspect you might be on an exotic fail to note the region’s distinctive Greek island. architecture. As a potential That Greek feeling is no accident. homebuyer down here, you’ll be Greece is only 50 miles or so across charmed by much of the exotica on the sea. Ancient Greeks colonised offer. Puglia is famously home to Puglia around two and a half circular cottages with pointy conical thousand years ago and there’s still roofs called trulli, which lend a a legacy of these ancient people’s fairytale air to towns and countryside. architectural style, language, cuisine It also features cubic lamia cottages and culture. Some say there’s even which sit like sugarcubes on the Vico del Gargano, on the something a little Greek in the landscape. And then there are the Gargano Promontory personality of Puglians, who can seem grand, elegant masseria farmhouses 84 ITALIA! February 2020

Polignano a Mare is one of the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular seaside towns

February 2020 ITALIA! 85

LIVING ITALIA!

TRULLO MIMOSA & TRULLO MAGNOLIA Type of property Property with two attached trulli Number of bedrooms 4 Price €325,000 Location Martina Franca Contact Italia Casa +39 339 101 9042 info@italiacasa.net www.italiacasa.net Property for sale in Martina Franca, Puglia. Recently restored property with two attached trulli: Trullo Mimosa and Trullo Magnolia. They have separate entrances, their own patios and they share a large salt-water swimming pool measuring 15x6m. Both Trulli are well maintained – you might like to change some of the furniture but they are both ready to live in. The living area is actually a bit small but outside there is ample space with two dining areas. There is also a garage and a garden of about 3,000 sqm with a vegetable plot and some olive trees. The nearest beach of Torre Canne is just a 30 minute drive away. All along this section of the coast are long sandy beaches interlaced with rocky coves and outcrops. From the property it is 3km to the town of Martina Franca, with an abundance of shops, bars and restaurants. It is also just 10km to both Alberobello and Locorotondo, with many restaurants open all year round.

The Bay of Ciolo, in the province of Lecce

in white or golden stone, often set amidst olive groves. There tends to be a solid, geometric quality to Puglian buildings, with simple shapes wrought in doughty stone. And Puglian buildings are also ‘solid’ in the sense of well-made. The ancient craft of the stonemason is alive and well down here. Homes are lovingly wrought inside and out, with carefully vaulted stone ceilings being a particular speciality. If you were really trying hard to find downsides to Puglia, just for the sake of giving a balanced description, you might say that the simple shapes of its buildings and

Plenty of people, of course, don’t want to look elsewhere. Puglia became very popular with visitors and homebuyers as soon as budget airlines first put it within easy reach of the wider world back in the year 2000. The region’s popularity has only increased since then. First-time visitors tend to be enchanted by this lovely, otherworldly place, and they keep coming back for more. POPULAR YET AFFORDABLE Bucking the trend of slow property sales which has troubled Italy for the past decade, Puglia still entices plenty of buyers. Maureen McLeod

The fact is that Puglia has no big cities, no teeming streets and no traffic congestion

Martina Franca hosts a summer opera festival

86 ITALIA! February 2020

their limited surface decoration aren’t always to everyone’s taste – perhaps especially people who love the refined and highly ornate architecture of Italy’s northern and central regions, with its delicate balconies, slender colonnades and so on. You might also point to a relative lack of great museums and art galleries, of spectacular cathedrals and such. The fact is that Puglia is a rural, elemental sort of paradise. It has no big cities, no teeming streets and no traffic congestion, so lovers of the urban whirl should look elsewhere.

of the estate agency Elite Puglia says, “The market here is doing incredibly well – 2019 was our best year to date, with more international buyers coming over to buy than ever before.” She adds, “There has been so much press regarding Puglia over the last few years, and with so many beaches, appealing little towns, new bars and restaurants, it’s a great location and an easy place to pop over to visit.” Buyers hoping to cover some of their costs by offering holiday lets will be pleased to know that Maureen says that “there is still

Discover the magic of Puglia! - %') %" % % ()*$$ $ '*"" $ "" ( - $ &) !$%+" % &'%& ') ( $ "% " ), - No surcharges, handling or service fees

YEARS A N N I V E R S A RY

Properties perfect for exploring the whole of Puglia!

Your holiday starts here

LIVE THE DREAM

Villa for sale on Puglia border near mesmerising Matera.

Full details call: +44 (0)7949 267878

This is the li fe!

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LIVING ITALIA!

TRULLO CEGLIE Type of property Complex of renovated trulli and lamie Number of bedrooms 6 Price €130,000 Location Ceglie Messapica Contact Italia Casa +39 339 101 9042 info@italiacasa.net www.italiacasa.net For sale in Puglia is a beautiful complex of renovated trulli and lamie composed of 5 cones and 2 lamie, 4km from Ceglie Messapica, in an oasis of peace and harmony with nature. The trulli complex, totally enclosed by dry stone walls, dates back to the mid 1800s and restoration work was carried out in compliance with the authenticity and preciousness of the place. The residential area of the building is 150 sqm, divided into 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, plus a kitchen with an antique fireplace. The complex consists of a trullo with 5 cones in which the living area is divided into a living dining room with an antique fireplace, a kitchen and 2 double bedrooms and a bathroom. In the annex consisting of the large lamia we find a large double bedroom with the possibility of adding a third bed, plus a bathroom. In total this property can accommodate up to 9 people (6 + 3).

The historic town of Ceglie Messapica

88 ITALIA! February 2020

The highly sought-after ‘White City’ of Ostuni

not enough stock on the rental market to meet all the enquiries coming in.” Despite its popularity, Puglia remains very affordable, especially compared to Italian regions further north. There are homes to suit most budgets – from simple rural village houses to grand, luxurious mansionfarmhouses. Small country houses needing restoration start at about €30,000. Simple, modern-built two-bedroom villas get going at about €70,000, three-beds at about €100,000. Two-bedroom seaside apartments start at about €100,000, as do old rural houses with land. For €250,000 you might buy a seaside villa, a three-bedroom home with a pool near a fashionable town, an old country house or a nicely renovated

two-bedroom villa topped with trulli cones. Puglia’s masserie (the stately mansion-farmhouses mentioned earlier) generally start at about €400,000. Larger, grander masserie with substantial quantities of land obviously climb in price from here and can go up into the millions. HIGH HEEL AND LOW HEEL You’ll want to have a rough idea of where in Puglia to focus your property search. This is a long, thin region so it’s useful to divide the place into two halves. The city of Bari marks a kind of mid-point between these two halves. Everything northeast of Bari can be summed up as the half of Puglia that is least popular with visitors and property-buyers. Up here, the

Santa Maria al Bagno is on the west coast, just north of Gallipoli

Image courtesy of Jen Parris and Paul Fox

sea meets the region from only one side, instead of the two coasts found in the southeastern half. Then there’s the fact that the area around Foggia in particular is relatively flat, which some people find uninteresting. This northeastern part is also the only part of Puglia that sees any significant levels of seismic activity. Worth special mention for its beauty, however, is the Gargano Promontory, which forms a kind of ‘ankle spur’ on the Italian leg. This protected National Parkland area is a beautiful stretch of highlands and dramatic coast punctuated by dreamy lagoons. Southeastern Puglia, which forms the ‘Salento Peninsula’, or the actual heel that sticks out into the sea, is the half that draws almost all the buyers. It can itself be divided into two halves: ‘Upper Salento’ (roughly from Bari down to the Brindisi area) and ‘Lower Salento’ (everything southeast of the Brindisi area). Upper Salento is where the foreign buyer market first took off in Puglia, and it’s a deeply lovely area of undulating countryside, giant olive trees, cute trullo cottages, beautiful old towns and pale sandy beaches. Lower Salento, meanwhile, is slightly drier and rockier, with white cliffs vying with coarse sand to meet the dazzling water. Some of Puglia’s most charming towns are in Upper Salento – such as the dazzling white spectacle of Ostuni, Alberobello bristling with trullo cones, the wonderful cliffside town of Polignano a Mare and the relaxed little coastal city of

Jen and Paul have an apartment in Otranto

OUR LIFE IN PUGLIA

uffolk-based Jen Parris and Paul Fox own a two-bedroom apartment in the ancient coastal town of Otranto in southern Puglia. They spend four weeks there every summer, a fortnight at Easter and make occasional short visits at other times of the year. When they’re not there, they offer holiday lets. What drew them to Puglia? “We actually met at an evening class in intermediate Italian,” Paul explains, “so you could say that Italy – or at least its language – brought us together. This was back in 2004. A few years later, having taken quite a few holidays to different parts of Italy, we went to Puglia for the first time and were quite dazzled by it. It seemed like nowhere else we’d ever been. We both love lots of sun and sea, so it was kind of perfect for us. When we saw how inexpensive the properties were, it seemed even more perfect. “We bought our apartment in 2012. It’s in an old stone building near the edge of the town, and we have a lovely view of the bright turquoise sea from our balcony. We’re on the first floor and we have a very nice neighbour downstairs who’s become one of our closest friends out here. The fact that Jen and I can both speak Italian has been a huge blessing, socially. Italians are intensely friendly, and it’s great being able to join in proper conversations with them. We’re always being invited to parties and gatherings. We feel like we have an Italian life and an English life here. We are so lucky. “We found the whole process of buying in Italy much simpler than we were expecting. Although, to be fair, we’re both natural worriers and we were probably anticipating far too much difficulty! Our estate agent was excellent, guided us through everything and made it all seem easy. I think the fact that the property needed no building work or fixing up made it a bit simpler. We just went straight in. Even the holiday letting side of things has been pretty easy. We have a local agent who organises it all for us, so we don’t have to worry about anything. “We love Otranto itself; it’s such a quirky and interesting town. And obviously the setting, right on the sea, is gorgeous. But we also love exploring further afield, travelling down along to wilder bits of coast or heading to little villages inland. Down here, we’re right on the very bottom tip of Italy, and sometimes it feels like it’s the very edge of the world. It’s an elemental sort of area, with such bright light and so much sea everywhere. It’s all rather exciting and otherworldly. We love it!” February 2020 ITALIA! 89

LIVING ITALIA!

PUGLIA REGIONAL GUIDE 1

Resorts like Mattinata do get busy in the summer months

90 ITALIA! February 2020

INTRODUCTION Puglia dips its heel into both the Adriatic and Ionian seas. The climate is reliably sunny, and hot and dry in the summer, with low rainfall year-round. The land away from the coast’s golden sands offers wide plains and hillsides, while Brindisi and Bari have airports that are well served by budget airlines, and public transport is generally reliable, certainly around the larger towns. Puglia’s proﬁle is growing, but while demand for property is increasing, prices have yet to become unaffordable.

NORTH: GARGANO PROMONTORY This headland is a nature-lover’s paradise with its National Park and ancient forest. The beaches are also a magnet for sun-worshippers from northern Italy. So the area is busy in high summer, particularly in the resorts of Vieste, Mattinata and Peschici, but less so out of season, although it’s still beautiful – so you can still expect to make good rental returns. There’s also the possibility of renting to the visitors who make religious pilgrimages to inland destinations such as Monte Sant’Angelo and San Giovanni Rotondo. 1

CENTRAL: FOGGIA TO BARI The landscape around the small city of Foggia is ﬂat and very fertile and responsible for providing the ingredients for some of Italy’s best pasta. The homes in and around Foggia tend to be low and solidly built – a testament to the fact that this is the only part of Puglia prone to the occasional earthquake. The land grows hilly again as you move west and south of Foggia, and there are some very attractive but rarely visited villages, like Lucera, above the plain. Moving south along the coast there are yet more appealing towns – such as chic and prosperous Trani and historic Molfetta, for example. Then you reach Bari, Puglia’s capital city and rival to Brindisi, a few miles further south, with its lively passeggiata and colourful festivals. A particular attraction is its Saracenic kasbah-like quarters where you will see women sitting together at tables on the street chatting and rolling orecchiette, the typical pasta of the region. Such areas can be found in many of the towns and cities of Puglia, but Bari’s are the biggest and most atmospheric.

Bisceglie, north of Bari, has retained its ﬁshing village charm

THE COAST: BARI TO BRINDISI South of Bari, the coast changes from craggy cliffs to ﬂat, fertile scrubland and back again, interspersed with short, pale wisps of sand. Polignano a Mare is a charming cliff top town, while further south is the ‘white city’ of Ostuni, where there is much interest from foreign buyers and visitors alike. The city’s centro storico is an astonishing pile of white buildings set on high, overlooking olive trees that stretch all the way from here down to the sea. From afar, it looks like a fairytale city. It’s small, but with plenty of good restaurants, and it has a surprisingly lively calendar of public events. Further down the coast, you arrive at Brindisi, a thriving seaport city since ancient times with a superb natural harbour. You’ll enjoy great local food here and an exuberant passeggiata in the evening. 3

CENTRAL: THE ITRIA VALLEY

SOUTH: SALENTO PENINSULA

This picturesque area is ‘trulli central’ with these cute, cone-shaped dwellings scattered right across the rolling green landscape of the Itria Valley, which forms the hinterland behind the Bari to Brindisi coast. Towns like Fasano, Ostuni, Martina Franca and Locorotondo ﬂourish all year round and are not really dependent on seasonal tourists, although the World Heritage town of Alberobello, with over 1,000 trulli, is always popular, whatever the time of year. Properties in this area are now much sought-after by foreign buyers – the area is easy to get to from Bari and Brindisi airports. Move east from the Adriatic coast towards the Ionian coast and this gentle landscape breaks into crags and grottoes. Either side of the industrial port of Taranto there are dreamy white sandy beaches backed by cool pine woods.

Draw a line between Taranto and Brindisi and you more or less have this appealing peninsula, which has some quite distinctive cultural peculiarities that differentiate it from the rest of Puglia, including Greek inﬂuences in architecture, language and cuisine. The attractive coast is rocky and cliffbound and riddled with caves, and the sea is clean, calm and shallow. A few low-key beach resorts serve the occasional stretch of sand here, but elsewhere the rugged and uninhabited spaces are empty and elemental, with the best beaches either side of the iconic town of Gallipoli. There are some appealing towns down here too, like Otranto, Castro and Galatina, and baroque Lecce. The Salento Peninsula area can get pretty quiet in the winter, but the middle-of-nowhere atmosphere it exudes is also part of the sub-region’s charm.

Many of the region’s trulli are in the Itria Valley

Otranto is located on the Salento Peninsula

February 2020 ITALIA! 91

LIVING ITALIA!

TRULLO GRANDE Type of property Complex of six trulli and three lamie Number of bedrooms 3 Price €330,000 Location Martina Franca Contact Italia Casa +39 339 101 9042 info@italiacasa.net www.italiacasa.net Trullo Grande is the oldest part of the entire complex here. The building dates back to the first half of the 19th century and consists of six trulli and three lamie. It has three bedrooms, three bathrooms, a living room, a large kitchen with dining room and fireplace, a wardrobe room and a laundry. Altogether the large trullo can accommodate up to six people (four plus two). Furthermore, it has a rare and charming stone patio with a small swimming pool made with dry stone walls. Entering from the main entrance you reach the square in front of the trullo paved largely with the typical local stone floor, the so-called chianche, on which overlooks, on one side, a large independent lamia entirely covered in stone, dedicated to a living area, and on the other a second entrance that leads to the sleeping area. The large living area combines the two main rooms: a large open kitchen that gives onto an equally spacious dining room, made very bright by a large window.

Martina Franca is at the heart of the Itria Valley

92 ITALIA! February 2020

Locorotondo is known for its circular structure

Brindisi. But Lower Salento has wonderful great places too – such as the beautiful baroque city of Lecce and the fascinating old seaside town of Otranto. BARGAIN HUNTING In terms of property prices, there are good value homes to be found in both Upper and Lower Salento, especially if you know where to look. Puglia’s priciest area is still the

the idea of creating a more bespoke property, whether to buy a old home that needs restoration work or to go for a plot of land and self-build. This last option, self-building on a plot of land, had become quite popular in Puglia. But it might not be as appealing as it once was. According to Maureen McLeod of Elite Puglia, “Planning permission time is taking longer at the moment than in previous years.” Would-be

Bargains can be found in lesser-known towns such as San Vito dei Normanni and Oria gorgeous Itria Valley area of Upper Salento, which includes settlements such as Ostuni, Alberobello, Cisternino and Locorotondo. But prices tumble just outside this gilded valley and bargains can be found in lesser-known towns such as San Vito dei Normanni and Oria, as well as in places a little further away such as Taranto and Manduria. In Lower Salento, there are also plenty of very inexpensive spots scattered around. Happily, wherever you are in the lower half of Puglia, whether it’s Upper or Lower Salento, you are never ever far away from that beautiful sea. Many buyers wonder whether it’s better value to buy a newlybuilt home or an old home that’s sold ready-restored; or, if they like

self-builders should make further enquiries into this and make sure they’re happy to have a bit of an extra wait if necessary. But whether you choose to buy new, to build new, to buy ready-restored or to restore, you’re extremely unlikely to be anything less than very happy with the standard of Puglian building work. Master craftsmanship and admirably dedicated builders ensure a wonderful end-result down here in Italy’s high heel, whatever the property they’re working on.

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DON’T MISS ITALIA! ISSUE 184 – ON SALE 13 FEBRUARY

PROPERTY SHOWCASE

Property Showcase

£500,000-£750,000

¤250,000-¤500,000

CASA CAPOLAVORO

VILLA SABINA

‘Capolavoro’ means ‘Masterpiece’, and this Marche property lives up to its name. A completely newly restored 220 sqm stone farmhouse, plus a 40 sqm cottage. Excellent build quality and terrific interior design touches including original beams, old cotto floor tiles, arched doorways, 2 fireplaces and a unique artisan crafted staircase. Property totals 4 bedroom, 4 bathrooms. Outstanding views. Big, 25 acre plot with olives, fruit trees and landscaped garden. Solar heated pool. 2 km from an lively, desirable village, 35 minutes to the mountains and beaches. Casa Capolavoro really is a masterpiece! Price €550,000 Contact Kevin Gibney +39 347 538 6668 info@propertyforsalemarche.com www.propertyforsalemarche.com

Comprised of two structurally rebuilt buildings, a 3-4 bedroom house plus a stone cottage. Great views. Walk to the village with bar and restaurant. Easy access. Close to the mountains and beaches, 10 minutes to the city and main highways. Excellent build quality. Fully landscaped 1.25 acre (5,000 sqm) plot. All that’s required is finish work – you select final layout, bathroom finish, kitchen, windows and energy system. Excellent value. Excellent quality in all respects. Price €315,000 Contact Kevin Gibney +39 347 538 6668 info@propertyforsalemarche.com www.propertyforsalemarche.com

¤250,000-¤500,000

£250,000-£500,000

CASA RICARICA

CASA CELESTE

“Ricarica” means “recharge”, and what better way to recharge your soul than to spend time at Casa Ricarica? Within walking distance of the town of Loro Piceno, Macerata, this fully-restored, 3 ﬂoor stone house with pool, restored cottage, garage, olive trees, big plot and great views has a total of 5 bedrooms and 4 bathrooms. New to the market this summer. Checks all the boxes and is available at a surprisingly good price. Price €499,000 Contact Kevin Gibney +39 347 538 6668 info@propertyforsalemarche.com www.propertyforsalemarche.com

Casa Celeste is the complete package, at a great price. A lovely brick house, recently rebuilt on the site with material from a house dating back to 1826. Gorgeous arched portico, 10x5m pool, great views, excellent location, 5 bathrooms, simple, unpretentious interior, low maintenance plot, easy access, irrigation system, close to everything. All accented with that special colour – celeste. Price €399,000 Contact Kevin Gibney +39 347 538 6668 info@propertyforsalemarche.com www.propertyforsalemarche.com

94 ITALIA! February 2020

£1,000,000-£1,250,000

¤250,000-¤500,000

VILLA PORTO VENERE, LIGURIA

RESTORED FARMHOUSE, LE MARCHE

Detatched house near Liguria’s Cinque Terre. Adjacent to the property is a plot of land with olive trees and woods that has direct access to the sea. The villa consists on the ground ﬂoor of a living room, kitchen, 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms. Downstairs there is a cantina, preparation for another bathroom, a studio and an extra storage room. On the same level there is a garage and more parking space outside. The two ﬂoors are connected via an internal lift. The property is 5 minutes from Borgo Le Grazie, Portovenere is only 10 minutes away and the city of La Spezia is a 20-minute drive away. Ref 3897 Price €1,150,000 Contact ItaliaCasa +39 339 101 9042 info@italiacasa.net www.italiacasa.net

San Lorenzo in Campo. Original Marchian farmhouse in a beautiful location in the varied hilly landscape. The natural stone house has been restored to a high standard while retaining original details and is in excellent condition. Ground floor: kitchen, living room, hall with access to the upper floor, storage room, technical room, pizza oven. First floor: 3 bedrooms, hall, 2 bathrooms. The house is equipped with every comfort and is ready to move into. The sculpted garden is perfectly maintained. The site is fenced and is accessible via a beautiful antique entrance gate. There is a well for watering the garden and an outdoor shower with hot and cold water. Ref 4129 Price €495,000 Contact ItaliaCasa +39 339 101 9042 info@italiacasa.net www.italiacasa.net

¤250,000-¤500,000

£500,000-£750,000

APARTMENT IN FANO, LE MARCHE

RESTORED FARMHOUSE IN LAZIO

Tasteful apartment in a quiet location in a recently renovated apartment building, 150m from the promenade in the historic seaside town of Fano and a 5 minute walk from the historical centre with many amenities. The ground ﬂoor apartment is modernly furnished and has an entrance hall, kitchen/diner, living room, 2 bedrooms, bathroom, outside space, small balcony, storage room in the basement and is air conditioned. The proximity to the beach Sassonia is a clear added value. The accessibility by car or train is optimal. Ancona airport can be reached in half an hour. An apartment with the possibility of a good return on rental. Ref 4130 Price €291,000 Contact ItaliaCasa +39 339 101 9042 info@italiacasa.net www.italiacasa.net

The perfectly restored 1800s farmhouse Leopoldino is in a panoramic position on a plot of 20,858 sqm. The 500 sqm house has two levels with a covered roof-terrace, one outbuilding of 110 sqm to be ﬁnished, and a garage of recent construction of 100 sqm, and also covered porches and terraces for a total area of 60 sqm. There is a private park that surrounds the house, a solarium and a 6x12m swimming pool in a position of absolute privacy. This farmhouse is in the province of Viterbo, favoured by the proximity of Lago di Bolsena, 20km, Cività di Bagnoregio, 4km, and the historical and monumental heritage of Orvieto, 15km. Ref 4167 Price €695,000 Contact ItaliaCasa +39 339 101 9042 info@italiacasa.net www.italiacasa.net

February 2020 ITALIA! 95

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FLIGHT GUIDE Our indispensable guide to Italy’s main international airports: where they are and, most importantly, how to get from them to where you are really going… 1 ROME

www.adr.it Rome-Fiumicino, aka Leonardo da Vinci, is Italy’s busiest airport by far, though with facilities like touchscreen information terminals it’s all negotiable. It is linked to the central railway station, Termini, by the ‘Leonardo Express’. Returns depart from track 24 (buy tickets before you get to the platform or they’re more expensive). Terminal B is for international ﬂights; Terminal C for transatlantic. The Terravision shuttle bus is cheaper but takes twice as long. Ciampino, which in the days of Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn was the city’s main airport, also has regular ﬂights to the UK and is closer to town, though there is no rail link. There is talk of a third airport. 2 MILAN

www.airportmalpensa.com www.milanolinate-airport.com www.orioaeroporto.it Milan already has three airports, if you count Orio al Serio, which is actually just outside Bergamo but has frequent coach services into Milan. After Fiumicino, these are Italy’s next three busiest airports, and there are year-round direct links to cities all over Europe and, from Malpensa, to the USA. Linate, the most convenient for the city centre, has reopened after being closed for three months to have its runway resurfaced. 3 VENICE & THE VENETO

www.veniceairport.it www.trevisoairport.it www.aeroportoverona.it www.aeroporto.fvg.it Venice Marco Polo connects to cities across Europe and, seasonally, to the USA. From the airport, ATVO (www. atvo.it) runs non-stop shuttles to Piazzale Roma. The ACTV bus (www. actv.it) and the Alilaguna boat (www. alilaguna.it) stop along the way. For water taxis, see the airport website. Venice’s second airport is at Treviso; an ATVO from there takes 70 minutes. Verona Villafranca, aka Valerio Catullo, mainly serves Verona. ATV‘s Aerobus 199 (www.atv.verona.it) runs to Porta Nuova; in the summer, they

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EMAIL US WITH YOUR AIRPORT TIPS: italia@anthempublishing.com, or write to us at our usual address on page 6

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go up to Lake Garda. The region has a fourth international airport at Trieste, with links to London City, Heathrow and Stansted.

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4 TUSCANY & UMBRIA

www.pisa-airport.com www.aeroporto.ﬁrenze.it www.airport.umbria.it Pisa’s ‘Galileo Galilei’ Airport is the main point of arrival for visitors not only to Pisa but also to Florence. There’s a shuttle train into Pisa, from where you can get a train to Florence after you’ve seen the Leaning Tower. But, if you’re dead intent on heading straight for the Renaissance City, buy your bus ticket at the Information Desk (leave Arrivals and turn right). Alternatively, you can (for a price) ﬂy straight into Florence from London City. Further south, San Francesco d’Assisi Airport lands you smack in the centre of Umbria, Italy’s ‘Green Heart’. 5 PIEDMONT & LIGURIA

www.aeroportoditorino.it www.airport.genova.it A train will take you from Turin-Caselle Airport to Dora Railway Station in 20 minutes. There are buses too, but the train is cheaper and faster. Buy tickets from the Ricevitoria in the arrival hall. Genoa ‘Cristoforo Colombo’ Airport is built on an artiﬁcial peninsula set in the sea just to the west of the city centre. This increasingly popular city destination now has direct connections to London Gatwick, Luton and Stansted, and Bristol and Manchester. 6 EMILIA-ROMAGNA

www.bologna-airport.it www.parma-airport.it The Marconi Express monorail at Bologna is scheduled to open this summer. Meanwhile, the Aerobus-BLQ shuttle bus (www.aerobus.bo.it) takes 20 minutes to reach the central railway station. The region’s second airport is at Parma, which has a shuttle bus service provided by Andromeda (www. andromedasbus.it). 7 NAPLES

www.aeroportodinapoli.it The publicly-run Azienda Napoletana Mobilità (www.anm.it) offers bus 3S

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and Alibus as ways of getting into town – though the taxi ride along the tangenziale is much more fun. Your driver will offer a ﬁxed rate for any main destination. Naples has new connections to Exeter and Glasgow. 8 SICILY

www.aeroporto.catania.it www.palermo-airport.com www.aeroportodicomiso.eu Catania-Fontanarossa, aka Vincenzo Bellini, is Sicily’s busiest airport. A shuttle bus takes foot passengers into Catania, while most hire cars head for the nearby A19 autostrada, which links Catania with Palermo. Falcone-Borsellino is a capital city airport with a provincial feel an hour by shuttle bus from Palermo’s Quattro Canti; easyJet has new routes from Liverpool and Luton. Comiso has recently been converted from military use to serve Sicily’s southeast.

ﬂights in summer than there are in winter. In high season, book ahead. 10 PUGLIA

www.aeroportidipuglia.it Bari and Brindisi are both largely domestic airports, though there are regular connections with the UK. These can, however, be in high demand, especially in season, so book ahead. Public transport to and from both airports can be a bit patchy. 11 LE MARCHE, ABRUZZO & MOLISE www.aeroportomarche.it www.abruzzoairport.com www.riminiairport.com Italy’s scenic east coast is still not very well served by international airlines, though the situation is improving. From the UK, your options are Ryanair from Stansted to Ancona, Pescara or Rimini, and Gatwick to Ancona with easyJet. 12 CALABRIA & BASILICATA

9 SARDINIA

www.aeroportodialghero.it www.cagliari-airport.com www.olbiaairport.com Sardinia is served by three international airports, at Alghero, Cagliari and Olbia. What they all have in common is that there are a lot more

www.lameziaairport.it If you thought the people of Le Marche were poorly catered for with international air connections, spare a thought for Calabria – or, for that matter, Basilicata. To get to Lamezia Terme, we have no choice but to ﬁrst head for London Stansted.

February 2020 ITALIA! 97

THE FINAL WORD

ITALIA! HERITAGE

Cypress trees line a winding road to a farm in Val d’Orcia

#04 VAL D’ORCIA Just south of the hills of Siena, stretching to the dormant volcano of Monte Amiata, is the Tuscan region of Val d’Orcia. 98 ITALIA! February 2020

he landscape of Val d’Orcia, which has been cultivated over many, many centuries to create an aesthetically pleasing vista, was celebrated by the Renaissance painters of the influential Sienese school and has more recently been captured by film as the backdrop to Gladiator and The English Patient, and immortalised in the words of many novels. It is instantly recognisable by its iconic cypress-lined roads and today has UNESCO World Heritage Site status. Travelling by car along its highways presents an opportunity to take in the breathtaking views of the undulating south Tuscan hills, punctuated as they are by golden fields of corn, rows of vineyards and the almost lunar landscape of the

dry clay hills of Crete Senesi. Picturesque towns are scattered throughout your journey. Montalcino and Montepulciano are famed for their vineyards, while Pienza, itself famous for its pecorino cheese, was rebuilt as the ‘Ideal City’ in the 15th century and stands as an incarnation of the Renaissance aesthetic. Cultural history is in abundance here, with landmarks such as the medieval Abbey of Sant’Antimo ‘kissed’ by the sun spreading its golden hues as it sets each day, and the thermal waters of Bagno Vignoni, a spa town on the Via Francigena favoured in bygone days by travelling Romans and in modern times by walkers for its healing waters as they tread the path of the ancient pilgrimage route towards the Eternal City.

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