MAGPIE
THE SEASONAL ACCESSORY GUIDE
! e u s s i g n i r p s e th
£4.25 ISSUE 2
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American Apparel
速
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2009 SPRING
IMAGE: Kim @ Wildfox Couture
CONTENTS 07
WE SAY
28
I CONFESS
09
CONTRIBUTORS
30
FASHION
10
EYE CANDY
36
FOCUS: IN THE CLOSET WITH...
12
WE SHARE
38
FOCUS: BREAKING THE MOULD
14
WE SEE
40
FOCUS: ICON
16
EYE SPY
45
CULTURE: MAD HATTER
19
MAKE YOUR OWN...
46
CULTURE: DEBATE
21
HEADS, SHOULDERS, KNEES & TOES
48
FASHION
26
THE BIG QUESTION
54
SHHHH!
A nice picture to set you on your way Spring’s hottest catwalk accessory trends
Style on the streets of New York
Sunglasses to suit all
headband
This season’s lookbook
Is make-up the ultimate accessory?
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Heels or no heels? If you go down to the woods today
Student Janette Coalter
Jewellery designer Kirstie Maclaren
Lady Gaga
V&A Hats: An anthology exhibition
Jewellery as art
Best of British
Spanish Moss Vintage eBay boutique spring 2009
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JY
o
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EDITOR’S LETTER 07
we say
Our favourite season is finally here! Our sense of individual style is no longer hidden under thick winter coats, and that Spring clean has left plenty of space in our wardrobes for some new accessories. It seems Spring 2009 is the season of the hair accessory. From bows to bowler hats, head gear is definitely where it’s at, and who sums this up better than this issue’s icon Lady GaGa (pg 40). Take inspiration from the latest catwalk trends (pg 12), get tips from the LookBook (pg 21) and even learn how to Make Your Own (pg 19). But, if head gear’s not your thing, fear not- we’ve got lots more to offer. In Breaking The Mould (pg 38) innovative jewellery designer Kirstie Maclaren invites us into her world for a sneak peek at the new collection. We hit the streets of New York to see what accessories are making it big Stateside (pg 14) and ask The Big Question: Is make-up the Ultimate Accessory? (pg 26) in this issue’s debate. If it’s culture your after, head to the V&A for Stephen Jones’ Hats: An Anthology (pg 45) or, if you’re looking for a fashion-fix, we’ve got two stunning shoots to get you inspired. IMAGES: Kim @ Wildfox Couture
As usual, the team have had bundles of fun with this issue, and we hope you do too!
ire la C & h a r a S , il a ig b A xxx
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that spring clean has left plenty of space in our wardrobes for some new accessories... spring 2009
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CONTRIBUTORS MAGPIE MAGAZINE 9 Berkeley road Southampton SO15 2JB Tel: +44 (0)23 8022 3854 magpiemag.com Sarah, who penned Breaking the Mould (pg 38), is a journalist who loves getting all the juicy details. Well, it made sense to give her curiosity some purpose. She worked for Adrenaline, an extreme sports magazine, before joining Magpie at the start of this year. Her Jacobs bag she nabbed off eBay, and a chunky gold charm necklace she bought at a cute little boutique in sunny Brighton.
firstname.lastname@lulumedia.com Sarah Wellsman Abigail Richards Claire Smith special thanks to: Kirstie Maclaren Hannah Al-Shemmeri Janette Coalter
Claire Smith, who styled If You Go Down to The Woods Today (p.30), is a fashion journalist who recently joined the Magpie team after working on male fashion mag Unit and extreme sports magazine Adrenaline with our very own Sarah. A self-confessed vintage lover, her must have accessories for this summer are a pair of oversized vintage sunglasses from Rokit and some fringed gladitor sandals that she’s watching on eBay, perfect for the festival season.
09
we share
favourite accessory is a vintage leather Marc by Marc
CONTACTS:
Suzanne Carafano Sophie Press SUBSCRIPTIONS: one year for £14 in the UK. International orders available on request. Address subscription orders and enquiries to magpie, 9 Berkeley Road, Southampton, S015 2JB, or email: subscription@lulumedia.com magpie is published by lulu media.
Abigail, this issue’s investigator to the big question,
reproduction without permission is
Is Make Up the Ultimate Accessory? (pg 26) is an
prohibited.
entusistic journalist who loves the pace of the job. The young journalist started her career as a freelancer before being nabbed by Magpie late last year. Her
lulu
intrigue and love of vintage often sees her writing in the culture section. Her favourite accessory is an emerald
Magpie magazine and everything contained
pendant necklace given to her by her grandmother,
within is copyright of lulu media. No material
and her leather slouch boots from urban outfitters.
may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The views and content of the magazine are not necessarily those held by lulu
Cover image: Photographed by Bella Howard for Topshop.
media, its directors or its employers.
Styled by Lucy Ascot. Cardigan by Kate Moss for Topshop, Bag by Topshop.
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spring 2009
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eye candy
Forget chocolate or diamonds, shoes are most definitely the way to a girl’s heart.
10
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credits
00
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spring 2009
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we share 12
uel l a l
Flower Power
spring 2009
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Luella Spring/Summer 2009
This season is all about making a statement with your accessories. At Luella, sticky-sweet confectionery colours flooded the catwalk, with bubble gum pink and tango orange oozing from gloves, bags and hair pieces. Think garden party chic, with a splash of psychedelic colour. Oversized floral bows and fluorescent netting prove that hair accessories are here to stay, with fifties style shades and red lipstick to match. Ruffle-edged gloves and pretty leather handbags reflect a subtle combination of old English style with rebellious cool. Take inspiration and experiment with one or two key pieces, adding a pair of ankle socks and MaryJane’s for that perfect preppy style. magpie.com
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we share
WORDS: sarah wellsman. IMAGES: idspicturedesk.com
Topshop Unique Spring/Summer 2009
Sportswear goes glam with pale pastel shades and geometric prints at the Topshop Unique Spring/Summer 2009 catwalk. With billowing jersey bows and curly beehives which would put Amy Winehouse to shame, it was the eccentric details that caught our attention. Painted wooden wedges with sheer stockings provide a quirky take on this season’s ankle-sock obsession, and suede stilettos are a great alternative for those who are a little less daring. Ice-cream pendants are cute and kitsch and give
Topshop unique
Bows are big!
off that summer seaside vibe, and black waist belts keep the silhouette slim. Accessorise with colour and dare to be bright and bold this Spring! magpie.com
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spring 2009
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style on the STREETs
we see
NEW YORK
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Tanya, 24, Visual Merchandiser
spring 2009
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Eve, 25, Stylist
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s We head stateside for a peek across the pond Yorkers
are
known
for
their
statement style and the best place to spot it is on the sidewalk, not the catwalk. Filled with stylish city dwellers who aren’t afraid of an accessory or two, it’s an eclectic mix of vintage, designer and high street. Fashion students Paulina and Lauren (top right) both combine black leather boots with Ray-Bans for an ultra-chic yet understated daytime look, but Hayleigh (third from left) opts for pastel shades with her beaded necklace and sheepskin bolero. Tanya and Eve (first two from left) give their own take on this
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season’s headwear trend, and Maurie keeps it casual with plimsoles, stripy socks and oversized sunnies. The trick is to look like you haven’t even tried, so make sure to keep things
we see
fresh this Spring. Play with texture, pairing chunky wooden beads with a silk headscarf or thick gold chains with Paulina and Lauren, both 22, fashion students.
WORDS: Sarah Wellsman. IMAGES: Eddie from stylesightings.com
ist
New
Hayleigh, 19, beautician
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knitwear. You heard it here first!
Maurie, 22, Waitress
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eye spy
Sunglasses can change from season to season, but it's all about finding a style that suits your face shape.
Retro Super Future Mirror Sunglasses, £100
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Retro Super Future Exclusive Hippy Tie Dye Sunglasses, £75
spring 2009
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Spitfire Neon Sunglasses, £17.95
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F
sunglasses style to suit all. They can round off an outfit with a splash of colour or give it a retro edge, but it’s important you find a shape which compliments your face, along with your look. Finding the perfect pair
can often seem impossible: Miss Richie and Posh can pull-off
l
oversized sunnies to a tee, but you end up looking like a pea head? To make shopping for shades a little easier, just follow our guide and find a style which works for you: Round shaped face
17
eye spy
ova
rom aviator to flat top, visor to over-sized, there is a
If you have a round shaped face, look for styles that have thick-set brow bars or frames that are equal to the width of your face. Square lenses will also give your face structure and definition, emphasising the appearance of cheekbones. Heart shaped face
rou
nd
If your face is heart shaped and you have high cheek bones, light coloured or rimless frames will look great. And remember aviators or angular shapes will balance out a smaller chin. Square shaped face If you have a square face stay away from square frames, and reduce those hard angles by choosing soft gently curved oval or round shaped frames. Oval shaped face
WORDS: Sarah Wellsman. IMAGES: prshots.com
And lastly, if you’re an oval-faced beauty, oversized shades were made for you. Be bold and daring, the bigger the
hea
rt
better!
From top: Rayban Wayfarer Monochrome Sunglasses, £110. Spitfire ASOS Exclusive Candy Bar orange Sunglasses, £18.95. 55DSL Contrast Flat Top aqua Plastic Sunglasses, £72. Retro Super Future Exclusive Oversized purple Sunglasses, £95.
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spring 2009
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BETSEY JOHNSON. ACCESSORIES
betseyjohnson.com
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MAKE YOUR OWN...
HAIRBAND You will need:
1.5 metres of jersey fabric needle and thread
SCISSORS a selection of brooches
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make your own...
WORDS: Claire Smith. PHOTOGRAPHY: Claire Smith
Stitch the two ends together to make a full circle, Cut a strip of your jersey fabric, making sure it’s
then place the doubled-up fabric around your
long enough to wrap around your head twice.
head to make a hairband.
Decorate the headband with your favourite
Et Voilá! A hair band even Nicole Richie wouldn’t
brooches.
be ashamed of getting papped in.
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spring 2009
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Jonathon Aston LONDON
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STYLING & PHOTOGRAPHY: Sarah Wellsman, Claire Smith, Abigail RichardS. MODEL: Hannah Al Shemmeri
HEADS, SHOULDERS, KNEES AND TOES, KNEES AND TOES
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we share lookbook 22
spring 2009
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THIS PAGE: Bow, £18, Johnny Loves Rosie and Necklace, £45, Urban Outfitters. OPPOSITE (clockwise from top left): Headscarf, £15.99, Laura Ashley; Bowler hat, £22, Absolute Vintage and Necklace, £129, Laura Tabor; Boater Hat, £18 Absolute Vintage; Corsage, £10, Accessorize and necklace, £39, Lola Rose.
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lookbook we share
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spring 2009
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lookbook 24
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lookbook THIS PAGE: Socks, £8.95, Celeste Stein and Mary Janes, £95, KG by Kurt Geiger. OPPOSITE (clockwise from top left): Tights, £22, and Shoes, £45, both Urban Outfitters; Moccasin Boots, £120, Minnetonka; Knee Socks, £7, Jonathon Aston and Shoes, £65, Topshop; Denim Leggings, £20, Topshop and Fringe Sandals, £45, Urban Outfitters. magpie.com
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spring 2009
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Make up T
he
y r o s ces
c
A e t a
tim l U
No
says Claire Smith
It’s not that I’m an au-naturale sort of girl. In fact, I never leave the house without the aid of my trusty eyebrow pencil and three
the big question
layers of mascara (oh how I envy the dark-haired beauties who
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escape the redhead curse of white eyebrows and eyelashes…) but for me make-up is more a necessity than an accessory. Accessories are meant to be the trimmings that can instantly up-date, dress-up or dress-down an outfit. While I’m the first to agree that make-up can do wonders for a girl, to claim that it can alter the overall look of an outfit seems like a slight overstatement. There’s only so much lipstick can do. Over the years my make-up has developed into a standard system and it’s difficult to see how something can something be seen as an accessory when it remains the same every day. Furthermore, my signature black eyeliner, lip balm and foundation with a hint of bronzer combo hardly draw the same compliments as a new vintage clutch or tooled belt. On the frequent occasions I find myself, yet again, wearing my failsafe LBD, I turn to my collection of belts, bags and bling to put a new twist on the outfit. Everyone’s usually so distracted by my statement necklace or on-trend bowler hat that they don’t even notice I’m in the same frock as last week, a trick I’m sure wouldn’t work half as well were I to rely on my MAC lipgloss alone. Of course, I’m not denying that make-up has the ability to be classed as an accessory- just look at Diesel’s Black Gold Spring/ Summer 09 collection where models sported pink and blue eyebrows. But such statement make-up is rarely experimented with by us mere mortals, and with good reason I fear. Some trends should be left on the catwalk…
Calvin Klein SS09
spring 2009
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Make-up. We’ve all worn it, even if it‘s a dot of concealer in the morning to hide our tired eyes. But what about when make-up becomes more than that as an addition to an outfit. Is it possible to not only dress for success but be made-up for success? Enter the debate as two cosmetic queens battle it ask the question: Is make-up the ultimate accessory?
yes says abigail richards Its so versatile, and the range of products available mean the possibilities are endless. If your body is a blank canvas then the make-up is the paint. I truly believe make-up can transform your look and define your style. Clothing and the rest are just the finishing dressing and do not decide the overall look. Like most girls, make-up has always played a huge role in my fashion life. It saw me through my young teen years where smoked dark eyes and lips represented my sombre, moody rebellion. Moving to my latter teens where overly applied make-up was used
the big question
Make-up is definitely the ultimate accessory for women today.
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as a ploy to hide my real tender age of seventeen. In my twenties experiments with false eyelashes and vivid colour symbolised my fun, wild times at university, only to finally resign at an overall natural Alexander McQueen SS09
look. Blemish free, neutral lips and natural brown eye make-up, another ploy, but this time to look younger than my years. The ultimate accessory not only accentuates an outfit but also
WORDS: Abigail Richards & Claire Smith. IMAGES: idspicturedesk.com
provides an insight into the individual- a welcome convenience in
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my ever jam packed day to day schedule. From expensive, mature brands such as Estee Lauder and MAC, to younger, more affordable brands like 17 and Rimmel, make-up is a universal trend which is adored from teenagers to the elderly. As with any type of fashion, new styles come and go, but make-up can be adapted to suit the individual in a variety of different ways, unlike other mass produced accessories. Not only is this an accessory with infinite compositions, it can be carried around unnoticed in your handbag for regular updates and last minute transformations to take you from office to pub. Is this not the role of an ultimate accessory?
Alexander McQueen SS09
spring 2009
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HEELS OR NO HEELS? I
’m a girl who loves her accessories. I can spend hours deciding what colour scarf I want or what belt I’m going to wear on a night out and it’s taken me years to select the perfect shade of lipstick. But one thing I’ve never been a
fan of is high heels. It’s something my friends and countless exes have always picked up on, but to be honest I’m tall enough as it is without adding another 5 inches. But it is one of those things that tends to nag away at you. I mean, what’s the big fuss about afew extra inches? I began to wonder if everyone else thought they were so great, wasn’t it possible, even probable that I was missing out on something really good. Maybe my lack of high heels was the reason I was
I confess
single in a city full of men. As I said, it was beginning to eat
28
away at me. Finally, last Friday, I gave in. I had a really hot date with a guy from my waxing place (hey, he’s just metrosexual right?) and I wanted to stand out and make an impact. My flatmate was adamant that high heels were the way to go. At first I was reluctant, I mean, what difference was making me taller going to make? But I was weak and, under pressure, I caved. I got dressed and strapped on a pair of my friends black stilettos. I have to say, I did like the way they looked from where I was sitting on the bed. They made my legs look somehow more
Now, I’m not an idiot. I had guessed that walking in high heels might be a bit different from flats
feminine, more voluptuous. I was beginning to regret the many years I had spent painstakingly avoiding these things. I decided I would get up and have a look in the mirror. Bad idea. Now, I’m not an idiot. I had worked out that walking in high heels might be a bit different from flats, and I’d heard stories about women falling over, but I was pretty sure the stories were exaggerated. I can do my lipstick while driving and ringing my boss to tell her I’m stuck in traffic, if I can do that then how hard could this be? I found out the answer to that particular question as I made my uncoordinated and rapid journey across my flatmate’s bedroom before colliding head-first with her dresser. To say my first attempt was unsuccessful would be an understatement. I felt as if I’d just spring 2009
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been hit in the head with a log and I was sprawled, openlegged on my friend’s bedroom floor. My flatmate was, to be diplomatic, unsympathetic. If we’re being undiplomatic, she was wetting herself. Anyway, to cut a long story short, I eventually plucked up the courage to have another go and, with a bit of help from my still hysterical friend, I began to make some progress. Enough at least to feel confident enough to walk without holding my friends arm. Things were beginning to look up. Then I noticed the time, I had half an hour before my date picked me up. I panicked. There was no way I could change my shoes. I was already wearing the outfit and I’d never find another pair of shoes that would go with it in time. And it had taken me 15 painful minutes just to get into the dress so there was no way that was going to be changed. The only option was to either go with what I had on or cancel the date. I decided to go with what I had on. In hindsight, I now see that was probably a mistake. He picked me up five minutes early which I liked and
“Wham. Next thing I know I’ve fallen flat on my face”
held my hand while he walked me to his car. I liked that too.
I confess
Firstly because it showed he was a gentleman and secondly
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because without his help I may well have free-styled into the nearest hedge. As it was, I maintained my ladylike walk and decorum right until we arrived at the restaurant. It was at this moment that I was confronted with a situation no woman enjoys, but always seems to have to endure: we ran into his ex. To say it was awkward would be an understatement. We were stood 3 yards away in the line for a table and it took 10 minutes before either of them would admit they had seen one another. They exchanged polite hellos and then my date introduced me. Focused on maintaining decorum and composure I forgot about the shoes. I lent forward to shake her hand. Wham. Next thing I know I’ve fallen flat on my face and one of my flailing arms has caught the woman straight in the mouth. My date is looking at me with a look that can only be described as amused disgust. His ex is crying. I know the date is ruined, I just want to slink back to my apartment and not come out for a week. Unfortunately the restaurant security WORDS: Abigail Richards. ILLUSTRATIONS: Illustrationweb.com
team has other ideas. Kicking up a storm worthy of the arrest of a serial killer, I was grabbed by both arms and swung into the air. In my surprise I kick out, no doubt adding to the drama of the whole situation. My hair is a mess and my dress is hitched up over my bum showing off beautifully the body-shaping pants I have worn on the date. To the excited onlookers, I must have looked absolutely frenzied. I was forcefully ejected from the restaurant and told by a man, who looked a bit like an overweight Mr T, that I was banned for life. To add insult to injury, I’ve now heard my hot date bought his ex dinner to say sorry and they’ve ended up getting back together. I think it’s fair to say that’s the end of my relationship with high heels. magpie.com
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spring 2009
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PHOTOGRAPHER: CLAIRE SMITH MODEL: SOPHIE PRESS STYLING: SARAH WELLSMAN
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THIS PAGE: Bangles, from a selection at ModCloth.
fashion we share
PREVIOUS PAGE: Bag, ÂŁ32, Urban Outfitters
00
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THIS PAGE: Earrings, £10, Urban Outfitters; Necklace, £45, All Saints. OPPOSITE: Scarf, £15 ,Rokit
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I n the c l oset w it h...
Clockwise: Janette with her wardrobe; her favourite vintage bag; her failsafe ankle boots from Tokyo
Janette Coalter
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What one item from your wardrobe
Who is your celebrity style icon?
could you not live without?
I
A denim bag I found in a vintage shop,
amazing.
it’s hand-made and has the cutest red
clothes, but always manages to make
and white polka-dot lining. It’s quite
them look quirky with her accessories
roomy too, with lots of pockets, so it’s
and layered jewellery.
think
Alexa She
Chung wears
always quite
looks simple
great to use as an everyday bag. What’s on your wish-list? What do you turn to when you’re having
I’m
a wardrobe dilemma?
handbag on eBay at the moment. I’m
I’ll usually throw on a Tshirt dress if I don’t
not one for designer ‘It’ bags, as they go
know what to wear, but my ankle boots
out of fashion so quickly, but a Chanel
from Tokyo are my secret weapon; they
handbag is a classic.
watching
a
vintage
Chanel
can make even the most boring of outfits look edgy.
What can a girl never have enough of? I know most girls would say shoes, but
What is your most prized possession?
I’ve got a real thing for hair-accessories.
A brooch that my Grandmother gave
I’ve collected so many over the years,
me when I was about six. I wear it with
from antique hair combs to great big
absolutely everything; on handbags,
eighties-style bows. They’re a great way
scarves, I even attached it to some
to update your outfits and make your
fabric to make a belt.
look stand out from the crowd.
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“My ankle boots from tokyo make even the most boring outfits look edgy”
magpie.com
WORDS: Claire Smith. PHOTOGRAPHY: Claire Smith
focus
A 21-YEAR-OLD STUDENT FROM Northern Ireland
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credits
ROKIT.CO.UK
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breaking the mould focus
With her quirky use of materials and unique creations, jewellery designer, Kirstie Maclaren, is taking the world of accessories by storm.
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Kirstie basks in the sunshine outside her workshop
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K
Kirstie wearing one of her blackberry creations
irstie
Maclaren
is
on a stool
in her
surrounded
by
perched
M: What inspires your designs?
workshop,
KM: I hate to sound crafty but nature
unusual
really does inspire me, but not in a
assortment of bits and pieces.
traditional organic way. I’m particularly
an
To her left sits a row of jam jars, a rainbow
interested
in
natural
dyes
at
the
spectrum of vibrant coloured liquid. To
moment, and human interaction within
her right are endless bundles of wool,
nature. One of my projects sparked
cotton, felt and fabric, and various
from the idea of blackberry picking
spools of metal and copper wire. Her
and the colour left on your fingers
fingers are stained berry red and purple;
afterwards. I then started looking at fruit
the colour is so deep it looks as though
and natural dyes and began staining
they may remain that shade for months
various materials with an assortment of
to come.
colours, including beetroot, carrot and
This little outhouse at the end of the
lime. I think people get caught up in
garden is where she says she spends
the fact that jewellery should be dainty
most of her time, it’s where she “gets
and sparkling clean, but I’m trying to
creative”. Pushing the boundaries of
challenge that.
jewellery design and experimenting
WORDS: Sarah Welssman. PHOTOGRAPHY: Sarah Wellsman
”
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M: How do you come up with a creative
about. It’s plain to see she has always
concept for a design?
had a rebelliously creative streak for
KM: Most of my ideas begin with
doing things a bit differently.
research. I love to travel, and I’m always taking plenty of snaps, these give me
Magpie: What do you love about
all kinds of inspiration. I prefer fashion
designing jewellery?
magazines to looking at jewellery books,
Kirstie Maclaren: I love that it can be
as they are always changing and up to
art, I enjoy pushing boundaries with
date. I often refer to architecture and
the realms of ‘wearable’ jewellery.
graphic design magazines too.
39
focus
“
I hate to sound crafty but nature really does inspire me. one of my projects sparked from the idea of blackberry picking and the colour left on your fingers.
with new methods is what her work is all
Practicality isn’t always necessary! M: Do you prefer form and design over M: Where did your passion stem from?
function?
KM: I have always loved exploring,
KM: I think both are very important, and
picking up bits and bobs and collecting
you should try to get a balance. How I
little things that catch my eye. I get
work varies depending on what material
bored of what’s available on the high
I’m using. Sometimes the design is very
street, so I have always bought my
important in order for something to work
accessories from vintage shops or on
or function properly. Whereas some of
eBay, or made them myself. I loved
my pieces have no function at all and
art and textiles at school, so went on
I am more interested in how the wearer
to do a Jewellery BA Hons degree at
interacts with my pieces.
Middlesex University. I’ve just graduated and can’t wait to develop my own style
M: What are your plans for the future?
even further.
KM: I hope to own my own jewellery shop in the future, so I can be my own
M: What materials do you enjoy working
boss and not have to design within any
with the most?
boundaries. My plan is to first travel
KM: At the moment, I would say fabric
around Europe for inspiration, so I can
- mostly cotton and felt, although I still
combine an eclectic mix of influences
haven’t decided what materials are
into my designs and source new ideas. I
my favourite. I’m still discovering new
have such a passion for what I do, it will
methods all the time, most of my work is
never feel like work to me, I just hope
trial and error and experimentation.
other people get what I’m trying to do. spring 2009
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Lady gaga
we share focus 00 38
spring 2009
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200 9 wit has s e h sour her fi en Lad y r the ing in t st two Gaga b a h u fas rtist e char singles rst on hion is b est ts. but ‘Just D to the cho kno , de ices w spit ance’ a pop sce , No n e he nd ‘ n t to for h Pok e r er p men m ubli usic s er Fa tion ce c u tho se b image a ccess, ’ ows nd r ! isqu e
magpie.com
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L
ady
Gaga,
formerly
known
as Stefani Joanne Angelina Germanotta,
hasn’t
always
stage. It’s about everything altogether — performance,art, fashion.”
Her ensembles of outlandish hair pieces, leather gloves and statement
Many have criticized the star for her
sunglasses, whether rain or shine, have
been so outspoken in the fashion
skin-tight,
but
made the star fashion’s new muse. With
bum-skimming
outfits,
department. Previously a more
the star strongly defends her quirky,
Peggy Bundy and Donatella Versace
subdued brunette, the transformation
eccentric style. With such little clothing
as fashion icons her look is anything but
to platinum blonde seemed to mark
the Lady often lets her accessories do
minimal. “I look at those as icons in art.
her transition to pop diva. Not content
the talking for her. One statement piece
It’s not just about the music. It’s about
with just producing great music, the
that seems to have defined the star is
the performance, the attitude, the
current artist views her performance
the oversized bow often worn in her hair.
look; it’s everything. And, that is where I
as a whole, and it’s clear that image is
This is often fashioned out of her own
live as an artist and that is what I want
high on her list of priorities. Gaga says:
locks, but increasingly we are seeing this
to accomplish.” A style icon in her own
“When I’m writing music, I’m thinking
iconic piece replicated in stores on the
right, Lady Gaga may be controversial,
about the clothes I want to wear on
highstreet and even on catwalks.
but she sure knows how to have fun.
41
WORDS: Abigail Richards. IMAGES: idspicturedesk.com
focus “When I’m writing music I’m thinking about the clothes I want to wear on stage. It ’s all about everything together performance. art. fashion.”
Playing with the paparazzi in London
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focus 42 Her wild, theatrical, and often tongue-
smaller boutiques for a more original
in-cheek “shock art” performances are
quirky twist.
always mirrored in the outfits she wears.
So, whether you love or hate the Lady,
Always at the cutting edge of fashion
you cannot ignore her. Her aversion
her outfits are less than practical for the
to wearing a top and bottoms at the
everyday working woman. However,
same time may leave her looking bare
inspiration can be taken from her
but she certainly makes up for this in the
choice of accessories. Accessories have
accessory stakes.
become hugely emphasised in current
Her flamboyant overindulgence in
fashion with lavish textured headbands
jewellery, hair pieces and sunglasses are
and jewelled corsages becoming main
often theatrical and stage like, but this is
statement pieces. From Gaga bows to
what has defined the star and seems to
sequined flowers, they’re everywhere
make her a major influence in the world
in high street stores, or can be found in
of pop culture.
spring 2009
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“I look at those artists as icons in art. It’s not just about the music. It’s about the performance, the attitutde, the look, it’s everything. And that is where I live as an artist and that is what I want to accomplish.” magpie.com
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TIGI 速 accessory template.indd 43
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LONDON COPENHAGEN STOCKHOLM HAMBURG NEW YORK LOS ANGELES BOSTON SEATTLE TORONTO MOTREAL
27/4/09 18:36:14
HATS: AN ANTHOLOGY BY STEPHEN JONES AT THE V&A 24 FEB – 31 MAY 2009 From sacred masks to modern masterpieces, the famous milliner takes us on a timeline of head wear through the ages
culture we share
I
00 00 45
t used to be the case that an outfit was nothing without its co-ordinating hat, bag and shoes but nowadays, while the latter two still remain highly coveted, the hat
has drifted almost into obscurity. With the exception of the odd eccentric fashionista, hats rarely creep into our wardrobes anymore unless there’s wedding bells ringing. But, despite this sad fact, the V&A’s new exhibition ‘Hats: An Anthology’, is anything but an obituary to the demise of headwear in society; rather, it is a celebration of the significant role in which hats have played in some of
THE LATE, ICONIC ISABELLA BLOW WEARING A PHILLIP TRAECY CREATION
histories most iconic moments. The exhibition is curated by one of the world’s most prominent milliners, Stephen Jones, and features hats from Ancient Egyptian times right up to present day.
the tricorn, bowler and even baseball cap. The showcase the continues through to Creation- a novel
The oldest in the collection is a linen and papyrus hat
space set up as a milliner’s workroom and filled with traditional
featuring the Jackal-headed Egyptian god, Anubis, of
patterns, materials and millinery blocks that reveal how the
which Jones says:
art of bespoke hat-making has remained virtually unchanged
“It’s in marvellous condition considering it’s 2,600 years old, it’s what I based a headdress on for the spring/summer Dior couture show in 2004.” WORDS: Claire Smith. IMAGE: idspicturedesk.com
alongside modern designers’ interpretations of hat styles like
over the past century. The Salon section of the exhibition relates to the ‘salon’ environment, based on that of the haute couture fashion
After travelling the world for two years, and examining
houses which became popular with hat designers in at the
over 7,000 hats to select the lucky 300 that made the cut,
beginning of the 20th Century wanting to create an exclusive
Jones says the final exhibition exemplifies the varying roles of
environment for their clientele.
the hat as a tribal and social necessity, military prerequisite and fashion phenomena. The exhibition has been arranged to guide you through the lifecycle of a hat, from inspiration and creation to the salon and, finally, the client.
It is the client that Jones focuses on in the final part of the exhibition as, he explains: “They are the ones to ultimately give the hat its life and launch it into the world.” From Victoria and Albert’s headgear to the Phillip Traecy floral construction donned by SJP at the Sex and the City
The first section, Inspiration, demonstrates how history
premiere, Hats: An Anthology provides an insightful look into
has affected modern design with inclusions such as Queen
the mysterious world of hats that we’ve come to love, fear
Victoria and Prince Albert’s bonnet and black topper set
and be fascinated by.
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culture 46
Jewellery as art spring 2009
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magpie.com
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art is defined as having no other purpose than itself. enter the debate, is fashion art?
F
ashion,
like
art,
may
be
to grace fashion items. Andy Warhol
approached
in
terms
of
is just one artist who has noticeably
the
had an influence with his pop art prints
accurate dating of artefacts.
adorning everything from handbags to
style,
attribution
and
denied,
socks. However, the most prominent art
but the step from similar to identical
movements to be replicated in fashion
is a significant one. A top, however
accessories are that of Art Nouveau
aesthetically pleasing it may be, cannot
and Art Deco.
The
similarities
cannot
be
be said to have any function other than
20th
century
French
art
movements have made a significant
what about accessories?
difference in the trends of jewellery
In a consumer driven society where
design. Both the gentle feminine, floral
want has become need, are accessories
lines of art nouveau and contrasting
bought for function or
sharp
fashion? What it boils
edges of Art Deco
sell
themselves
being are a
pretty
by
no
by and
means
necessity,
much
like art. Therefore, is this not just another medium for an artist to express themselves? For instance, the most
“Both the gentle feminine, floral lines of art nouveau and contrasting sharp angular edges of art deco have influenced the fashion world”
recent collection of jewellery
designer
have
influenced
the fashion world. Art Deco especially seems
to
dominating
be this
seasons accessories. Lara Bohic is just who
has
created
jewellery that some say
can
described
only
be
as
art,
with a combination of architectural
emotion of mourning. Her use of colours,
shapes, Art Deco influences and elegant
textures and shapes within her jewellery
timeless design. Hollywood also has its
are all designed to evoke the emotion
own visual timeline of artistic influence
of ‘Gloomy’. Is this so different to the
on its jewellery, and this a progressive
intention of Edgar Degas’ in his painting
tendency that has only increased.
least, is a designer not an artist?
I suppose, looking at all the factors, some accessories and therefore some
Regardless of whether fashion and
fashion could be defined as art. But
art are one, art is certainly a major
to do so takes something away from
influence and has been for many years.
fashion itself. In fact, when you delve
Even in the 1930s fashion designers
below the surface, you discover that
and artists were running in the same
there is no need to compare the two.
circles and even collaborated on some
The intricate entwinement of the art and
projects. The most famous of which
fashion worlds mean analysis is useless.
being Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador
The bottom line is, whether you believe
Dali, who shocked critics with their
fashion is art, or even art is fashion, as
unique and daring designs.
with all things the boundaries are not
The fusion of fashion and art has
black and white and these worlds will
definitely not stopped there with famous
continue to cross paths, the important
artists and art movements continuing
thing is that we all enjoy wearing it.
magpie.com
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Junk Jewels, £22
one of the designers
Giselle Ganne is an expression of the
‘The Absinthe Drinker’? In this sense at
47
angular
culture
down to is accessories
WORDS: Abigail Richards. IMAGES: istockphoto.com
These
itself. Which introduces the question,
Get yours
Perfectly Vintage, £34
spring 2009
27/4/09 18:36:43
Photographed by Bella Howard Stylist: Lucy Ascot Hair: Leon Gorman using Redken Make-up: Tina Bantry using MAC Model: Naomi at Elite
BEST OF accessory template.indd 48
magpie.com
27/4/09 18:36:45
credits
magpie.com
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27/4/09 18:36:45
Union jack scarf, £58, Paul & Joe.
we share
Denim Corset bra, £26, Urban Outfitters.
spring 2009
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magpie.com
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credits
magpie.com
Studded leather clutch, ÂŁ105, All Saints. accessory template.indd 51
27/4/09 18:36:50
Geometric print scarf, ÂŁ39, Urban Outfitters. Studded leather sinny belt, ÂŁ22, Rokit.
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Snake gladiator heels, ÂŁ95, Emma Cook for Topshop.
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Spanish Moss vintage 54
t spring 2009
accessory template.indd 54
he ultimate online market place, eBay,
best vintage accessories from all over
has always been a Mecca for vintage
the United States:
fans, but sifting through the trash for
“Where I find my pieces is the closest
hidden treasure can be time consuming.
kept secret in the industry, but I always
So here at Magpie we’ve unearthed a
make sure they are great garments and
little gem which does all the hard work
accessories which have already stood
for you, it’s almost too good to share!
the test of time.”
Spanish Moss Vintage, an eBay
With a vintage stock now too large
boutique based in the US, adds 40
to sell on eBay, Spanish Moss Vintage
stunning new vintage pieces to the
will be launching a new website in
site each week. Ranging from mod to
May 2009, selling 400 stunning vintage
bohemian, disco to hippy, there are
items, along with Suzanna, an exclusive
plenty of items worthy of an up-all-night
vintage inspired accessories line.
bidding war.
“The range will be designed and
Well-organised,
and
produced in downtown Los Angeles,
Moss
previewing on May 6th. There will also be
doesn’t disappoint on any level. With a
a blog to keep customers updated on
full measurement chart for each item,
the latest street style and runway trends,
and endless high quality photos, you’ll
art, literature, music and progressive
have no nasty surprise when you open
culture, written by carefully selected
up that parcel.
Fashionistas and LA ‘IT’ girls.”
reasonably
Suzanne
well-stocked
priced,
Spanish
Carafano,
the
shop’s
creator, makes it her mission to find the
Well, what are you waiting for? Grab that vintage bargain while you can! magpie.com
WORDS: Sarah Wellsman. IMAGES: Suzanne at Spanish Moss Vintage
shhhh!
eBay has never been cooler...
27/4/09 18:36:54
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Vivienne Westwood ACCESSORIES accessory template.indd 56
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