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JACKSON HOLE’S ALTERNATIVE VOICE | PLANETJH.COM | FEBRUARY 24-MARCH 1, 2016


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JACKSON HOLE'S ALTERNATIVE VOICE

VOLUME 14 | ISSUE 7 | FEBRUARY 24-MARCH 1, 2016

10 COVER STORY

THE REAL YOU How a wild time-machine journey of DNA genetic testing helped one woman find a sense of belonging.

Cover photo illustration by Derek Carlisle.

4 OPINION

18 GET OUT

6 THE BUZZ

20 WELL, THAT...

14 CREATIVE PEAKS

22 FOODIE FILES

16 MUSIC BOX

28 COSMIC CAFE

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Dayton, Annie Fenn, MD, Elizabeth Koutrelakos, Carol Mann, Pete Muldoon, Andrew Munz, Jake Nichols, Ted Scheffler, Chuck Shepherd, Tom Tomorrow, Steve Weiss, Jim Woodmencey

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February 24, 2016 By Meteorologist Jim Woodmencey

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Jim has been forecasting the weather here for more than 20 years. You can find more Jackson Hole Weather information at www.mountainweather.com SPONSORED BY GRAND TETON FLOOR & WINDOW COVERINGS

It is only every four-years, or so, that we get to set records on February 29th! For this week, the record coldest temperature for the week happens to fall on the Leap Day. On the morning of February 29, 1960 the low temperature in Jackson got down to 32-degrees below zero. Had this not been a Leap Year, the next coldest temperature was 30-degrees below zero on the morning of February 24th, 1952.

Officially, the highest temperature recorded at the Jackson Climate Station last week was 49-degrees, on Thursday February 17th. That fell short of the record high for that date of 55-degrees, set back in 1947. This week the record high is 58-degrees, set on February 25th, 1986. We had just experienced one of the largest and longest winter storms on record, and as soon as it was over, the weather turned immediately to spring.

35 10 58 -32

AVERAGE PRECIPITATION: 1.14 inches RECORD PRECIPITATION: 2.83 inches (1962) AVERAGE SNOWFALL: 14 inches RECORD SNOWFALL: 44 inches (1999)

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FEBRUARY 24, 2016 | 3

on’t forget that we have an extra day this month. Most people think Leap Years happen every four years, but they actually don’t. Every Century, or so, we skip one. There are rules established for Leap Year that date back to the 1500’s: The year has to be divisible by four to qualify, however, years that are divisible by 100 and NOT divisible by 400 are excluded. The year 2000 was a Leap Year, but 1900, 1800, & 1700 were not. All that math just to keep our Calendar year on track.

WHAT’S COOL WHAT’S HOT

NORMAL HIGH NORMAL LOW RECORD HIGH IN 1986 RECORD LOW IN 1960

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JH ALMANAC


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4 | FEBRUARY 24, 2016

GUEST OPINION Wyoming Plays Politics with Healthcare How Medicaid expansion has shifted from a no-brainer to a head-scratcher. BY PETE MULDOON

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et it be known that I’m not a fan of Obamacare. But the majority of Americans (including me) believe that people have a fundamental right to healthcare. It’s 2016, America is one of the wealthiest countries on earth, and creating a system that continues to rely on healthcare insurers—whose sole reason for existence is to discriminate on the basis of health—is clearly not the answer. We should be providing all of our citizens decent healthcare. Period. Instead, we are pushing people into a complex system that’s easily gamed and requires them to make predictions about their future health that assumes they have knowledge even the best doctor doesn’t. It’s not a program that’s designed to provide them healthcare; it’s designed to guarantee them access to a health insurance system whose main motive is to make money. Patients are treated as profit centers, and in that sort of system, providing actual heath care is pretty far down the list of priorities. Having said that, the Affordable Care Act (ACA) is the law of the land. It’s the system we have (until we replace it with something better), and despite its many flaws, one of the features of that law is Medicaid expansion. It means

Americans (including Wyomingites) are going to pay 90 percent of that coverage through federal taxes no matter what, and it will provide healthcare for 20,000 of this state’s most vulnerable citizens. Think about that again. Ninety percent of the cost of the program is going to be paid through federal taxes (which we will pay anyway) and it will provide healthcare for 20,000 people at 10 cents on the dollar. These are people who are currently choosing to skip preventative care, only to wait until they’re sick enough to go to an emergency room where we will have to pay for them anyway—on top of the federal taxes we already pay to have covered them in the first place. The only thing we have to do to get these people covered is to say yes. Can you think of a more no-brainer decision? What kind of politician would be (fill in the blank) enough to turn that deal down? Well, 19 of 30 Wyoming state senators did exactly that this month. And one of them was our own Leland Christensen, R-Alta. Even after Wyoming Governor Matt Mead shifted his stance last year and is now pushing for Medicaid expansion in Wyoming. At a time when local governments are facing funding cuts for much-needed programs (the Teton Literacy Center, for example, is losing a third of its funding), Christensen is rejecting sorely-needed funding that would help alleviate the budget crisis, all because of Obama. Accepting the money would have saved the state $33.4 million over the next two years—money that could have gone to cover other much-needed programs. Instead of solutions, Christensen offers Republican talking points and says we should provide healthcare for the poor “the Wyoming way.” So far, that solution appears to consist of denying them federal funding for healthcare.

This might seem inexplicable to local voters, to whom Christensen seems to be a pleasant, reasonably intelligent person. But I’m guessing there’s another reason; one he probably doesn’t want to talk about. Christensen is running for U.S. Congress, so instead of considering the wants and needs of his constituents in Teton and Fremont counties, he’s pandering to voters in the rest of the state. It’s a fine political strategy if politics are more important than people. If the goal is to embarrass the President by sabotaging a healthcare system that’s keeping some of us alive, then it’s a great plan. For those of us who care more about keeping Wyomingites healthy than for Christensen’s federal political career, it’s an unmitigated disaster. I’m bracing for the hate mail I’m sure I’ll receive over this column. I’ve met Christensen a couple times. He’s a pleasant, well-liked man and I have no doubt even people who disagree with his position might feel that this is a harsh and unnecessarily personal critique. But Christensen, like other Wyoming legislators who voted no, has asked to be chosen to make these decisions. He’s spent most of his life working for the government, receiving government-provided healthcare, and when he votes to deny even basic healthcare to the less fortunate in an obvious bid to boost his chances of getting to D.C., he’s making a public choice that affects real people. That’s not something we can or should ignore because he is a nice guy. If Christensen is unable to represent his constituents because he’s got an itch for Beltway politics, he should resign his seat today. The last thing we need is another politician willing to throw the most vulnerable among us under the bus in order to further his political dreams. PJH

“The only thing we have to do to get these people covered is to say yes.”

SNOW PACK REPORT

SPONSORED BY HEADWALL RECYCLE SPORTS

IN SEARCH OF POWDER

T

ime to bust out the spring gear if you have not done so already. Indeed, anyone who has been out the past two weeks has witnessed a change in the snowpack; temps have been on the rise and the sun is making its scorching presence felt each day. The greatest amount of snow that fell last week arrived Friday through Friday night with 15 inches of accumulation measured at the Raymer plot. But Friday was bizarre—I left my house for work without a jacket, but by 10 a.m., mild rain became snow flurries. If you were up in the mountains you probably experienced high, gusting winds and blizzard-like snow. A combination of blustery winds and substantial amounts of snow presented the obvious dangers of wind slabs on a variety of aspects. On Saturday I saw this firsthand. Hiking into Garnet for a south-facing objective, I was forced to bail when my partner and I did not get the weather break we were looking for and instead tried to climb an east-facing objective. We got about halfway up, dug a quick hand pit and found new snow on the old wind slab, the problem layer about 18 inches down. We made our cut with our cord and the column

slid effortlessly. With that, we shifted our plans and tried for another aspect. Moving down range, we climbed up a south-facing, lower elevation aspect that was enjoying some sun. We could easily punch through in this area and climbed over to Delta Lake to ski the chutes up there. On the way down, we found good powder in sheltered areas and mostly sun-crust in non-sheltered areas with a south or east aspect. The north and west were still holding up well though. Then on Sunday, it sounded like friends were skiing corn while I enjoyed some leftover powder in the trees. Why should I tell you about my weekend? Because I think this week’s conditions will perhaps mirror what I experienced. On Monday and Tuesday we received some high elevation snow and more may fall on Saturday. Predicted temperatures are below freezing in the wee hours of the morning and surface snow will be cooking by noon. I expect south and east aspects will enjoy some good corn cycles, while the north and west aspects will still hold some untouched powder. Stay safe friends and pray for snow. – Steve Weiss


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6 | FEBRUARY 24, 2016

THE BUZZ Estranged Bedfellows Does a growing divide between town and county leaders have electeds ‘out of joint?’ BY JAKE NICHOLS

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ecent meetings between town and county officials have brought to light a palpable tension between the two government bodies. A few singular issues that require joint cooperation have been decisively divisive, none more so than the responsibility the 10 electeds share in resurrecting an impugned Housing Authority. Neither side wants to shoulder blame for the past. Both want control moving forward. The kettle was at a slow simmer until a former mayor began making it a habit to stir the pot with forceful appearances at public meetings. Deadlocked votes, internal feuding, and more than one mano-a-mano showdown between government leaders has brought to the forefront the image of a powder keg in need only of a spark.

Hem and haw over housing It’s the Housing Authority that has played the easy mark and supplied the match. While local retired builder Tim Rieser lent his expertise as a stakeholder to the two-day housing summit in May 2015, he was also busy waging an all-out smear campaign in the media against the Authority’s latest project: The Grove. “The town is now becoming aware that the Housing Authority is a giant bag of shit,” Rieser said. Some of the mudslinging found purchase with politicians, and the pilot light was lit. The resulting guiding document from the housing summit, the Housing Action Plan (HAP), called for dedicated sustainable funding for a reorganized Housing Authority— one that county commissioners wanted much more control over. When town leaders got their first chance to kick the tires on a new housing agency, they spent a lot of time checking under the hood. Town officials have moved slowly and cautiously forward at times as electeds gathered for their Joint Information Meetings (JIM). Major decisions were kicked down the road with numerous tablings and continuances. Unwillingness to act turned to indecision. Votes deadlocked and stalled over issues big and small. What tax would fund affordable housing? What would the organizational structure be? Who would report to whom? On the road to resolution county commissioners are looking for an exit ramp while town councilors are still warming up the car in the driveway. Bob Lenz, for one, hasn’t

been ready to put anything in gear. “I think it’s prudent to put this off a month,” he said during a recent joint vote for resolution. At another meeting he was hesitant to talk about a new lease for the Authority’s future office space. “There are a lot of moving parts going on between county and city. Maybe down the line in a few months we can look at this, but for now let’s leave sleeping tigers lie.” At the Board of County Commissioners (BCC) it’s full steam ahead. “What’s being reflected on the resolution today is something we’ve spent a long time working through,” said commissioner Paul Vogelheim of the vote to adopt a resolution to begin structuring a new Housing Authority framework. “It moves us forward and allows us to hire a housing director. Let’s get it going and go.” Mayor Sara Flitner called action toward designing a new housing authority “a bit of the tail wagging the dog,” and has often referred to the process as “building the car as we drive it down the road. Which is not optimal,” she added. Flitner blamed any hesitancy on the part of the town to get in step with their county counterparts as a case of differing experiential timelines. “I would say the distinction is because the Authority has been under the county for all this time. They have had hours and hours of discussion that we have not had,” she pointed out. When town councilors dragged their feet at the latest JIM, BCC chair Barbara Allen questioned Flitner’s right to continue agenda items her peers were ready to push through. “I’m eager to see us move forward with the Housing Action Plan that represented the vote of 10 elected officials. I would like to see us make some progress to make us more efficient and effective in delivering housing, which the community is asking for,” Allen insisted. “I would be in favor of making [the resolution] effectively immediately. I would very strongly like us to move on this.” “My impression from the last JIM was we were giving direction to staff to get specific information about particular projects about housing, more meat on the bones, before we move forward. I wasn’t aware that [Allen] heard the discussion differently,” Flitner responded. Despite a vote at that JIM to hold off, Allen was ready to act solely to record her commission was moving forward with or without reticent town leaders. “I’m not sure what that would accomplish,” Keith Gingery puzzled at the meeting when Allen called for a vote to adopt a resolution forming a housing department. “You need both boards to move forward.” Allen countered, “I want to show the county is now waiting on the town.” “Our joint Housing Authority is not off to an auspicious start,” groaned commissioner Mark Newcomb in refusing to join Allen on the 3-2 vote to implement policy immediately.

Power and authority

When State House Representative Ruth Ann Petroff’s bill to tweak state statute regarding a regional housing authority failed to pass last week, town electeds became further mired in the weeds. Councilman Jim Stanford was among a few already looking for an out clause. “How does that affect where [the resolution] stands?” posed Stanford. “Some of our colleagues have insisted on a restructuring for greater accountability. My chief goal was to get a dedicated source of renewable funding. If somehow we don’t get the funding—whether it doesn’t get on the November ballot or fails at the polls—can we get out of this partnership?” Flitner agreed. “If everything goes to hell in a hand basket and the county says, ‘we don’t ever want to work with them again,’ then it should be spelled out that, if this was a great experiment that just didn’t work, how do we undo it?” she asked. Town attorney Audrey Cohen Davis advised councilors that a hybrid housing authority was still a possibility even in light of Petroff’s failed legislation. “I do think it’s an interesting question,” Cohen Davis admitted. “Wyoming is an at-will employment state, so you would be committing with the county to have this internal department, and hiring several staff [members], along with this housing czar or manager.” Town administrator Bob McLaurin assured the council a termination clause could be written into a resolution should town leaders not care for the shape and scope of a new housing department. “This is a huge undertaking and we shouldn’t be afraid to make improvements or respond to changes and react to new data,” Flitner cautioned. “I want to draw that line in the sand.” Other town leaders questioned the proposed chain of command that would have the new housing department report directly to the county. “The way the Housing Authority is proposed to be set up, with the two key employees reporting to the county even though it’s a joint authority and funded jointly, I’m a little curious about the logic behind that,” said Don Frank. “As time goes on, most of this housing stock is going to be built in town. You would think the Town of Jackson should have a greater role in not only hiring and firing, but in setting the agenda and goals in what the new Housing Authority will do. There’s no mention of town having a role in overseeing the director.” Frank further worried about the county’s ability to handle a larger, dual housing agency. “Teton County is understaffed. They haven’t replaced their planning director since we loaned them Tyler [Sinclair],” Frank stated. “In this iteration we are asking county administrators to take on an even bigger, more complex department. I’m asking myself does the county have the bandwidth to do this well?”


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Recent joint information meetings have led some to ask the question, is the relationship between the town and county strained? Other councilmembers joined Frank in wrestling for control of the department. “How exactly was it decided that this would be a county department, since a lot of affordable housing going forward will be built in town?” Stanford wondered. “And will the town be involved in examining the budget of the Housing Authority?” Flitner, too, was wary of resolution wording that appeared to leave the town out on the wings. “I’m comfortable with the hybrid [organization] even though clarity wasn’t made with the Petroff bill,” she said. “Our colleagues across the parking lot have more legal expertise and experience in this, and that’s great, we can take advantage of that, but I would like to have more of a comfort level 20 years from now. The town needs to have oversight.” And Lenz still isn’t ready to take a first step in any direction. “Either you have a housing authority or a housing department. But as the Housing Authority exists now, the county has approved every project the Authority has ever had, and I don’t know if that is kosher or not,” Lenz said. “You have everybody saying how horribly they’ve done—that’s all I’ve heard about [the Housing Authority] for the last year and a half, anyway—and I don’t know where we’re going and what to expect as a joint department when we get there. It’s a big question mark. How does it all fit together?”

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Harmonious or hostile? Electeds and managers from the town and county say they do not recognize any strained relationship. Differences arise and are handled with professional courtesy and respect, according to Flitner. “I think there is a great working relationship there. I certainly value and like all these guys,” Flitner said. “We’ve got very complex issues to work through. We are going to have to do that and we won’t always agree. I’m comfortable with a little conflict or lack of clarity. It doesn’t bother me a bit. It’s just important to keep things civil.” Allen said, “I think there have been some very weighty subjects between the town and county. Both bodies are trying to do the best they can to represent their constituencies. The most important thing is we can continue to stall and not move forward, or we can trust that we have really good joint departments with skills and work well for the public.” McLaurin, who has seen intergovernmental cooperation and strife play out while running the towns of Jackson and Vail, Colorado, said the relationship between town and county here has always been dynamic. “I think we still have a good relationship. There have been some personality clashes. Some clashes on policy,” he said. “There are always issues of turf but that can be worked out. Things are probably better here than in most city-counties.” County administrator Alyssa Watkins, who assumed her role at the beginning of last year, said she is still too new to the job to compare the current regime to those past. “You’ve seen it longer than I have,” she said. “It’s probably natural for town and county to have some disagreements. But I’ve heard we typically don’t. My relationship with Bob [McLaurin] has been positive and is a great example of that.” PJH

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If town leaders were gun-shy about moving forward, messages from former mayor Mark Barron have left them paralyzed to act. “I’m a little confused as to why you are going forward with this at this time,” Barron said at a town meeting last week. “I’m a little confused why there’s never been mentioned that 100 percent of the housing the county is talking about is all located in the Town of Jackson. If I was on the town council I would ask myself why that was happening. I would ask myself why I wouldn’t be in the lead position, and why this department wouldn’t be housed within the Town of Jackson when all of the impacts of this housing is proposed to go there. “If you think for a minute you will have control over a Teton County department, think about Parks and Rec. How much control do you have over them? That is just a small potatoes version of what’s coming with a joint county-led, county-housed department

IT’S PRO-CHOICE OR NO-CHOICE.

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Wildcard wrench in the works

for housing. And maybe there will be one day when the county commissioners come up with a workforce housing plan outside of the limits of the Town of Jackson, but I haven’t heard that plan yet, have you?” Flitner said she has full confidence the county will fill in their complete neighborhoods with workforce housing development. Allen added that the lack of scheduled affordable housing projects in the county was due to the town being ahead of the county in LDR revisions. “There’s not an attempt to put all the affordable housing in Jackson,” she assured.

Take away a woman’s right to choose and she’s left to take matters into her own hands.


| PLANET JACKSON HOLE |

8 | FEBRUARY 24, 2016

NEWS Channeling Carlin

George

OF THE

WEIRD

“Military Intelligence”: The head of U.S. Navy intelligence has for more than two years been prohibited from accessing classified information (as the Pentagon disclosed to The Washington Post in January). Vice Admiral Ted Branch came under investigation in 2013 in a corruption scandal involving a foreign defense contractor and various Navy personnel and might have been suspended from all duties—except that, given the political gridlock in Washington, no consensus candidate has emerged. No charges have been filed against Branch, but before he enters any room at the Pentagon, classified material must be stowed away.

Recurring Themes

Yet another woman gave birth to her own granddaughter in January. Tracey Thompson, 54, offered to be the surrogate mother for her fertility-challenged daughter, Kelley, and delivered a 6-pound, 11-ounce girl at The Medical Center in Plano, Texas. n After notable successes in the United States, Latin America claimed in December its first transgender pregnancy after Ecuadorean Fernando Machado announced he was expecting a child with his partner Diane Rodriguez. Fernando used to be “Maria”; Diane used to be “Luis”; and though both undergo hormone therapy, they have retained their birth organs.

For all MEETING AGENDAS AND MINUTES WEEKLY CALENDAR JOB OPENINGS SOLICITATIONS FOR BIDS PUBLIC NOTICES AND OTHER VALUABLE INFORMATION

Visit our website

TetonWyo.org The public meeting agendas and minutes for the Board of County Commissioners and Planning Commission can also be found in the Public Notices section of the JH News and Guide.

n Overexcited police departments occasionally feel the need to safeguard towns by zealous enforcement of anti-gambling laws. In November, police in Altamonte Springs, Fla., raided the Escondido Community Clubhouse, formally shutting down the retirement village’s games of bingo, bunko, penny poker and—most controversially—the weekly sessions of the culturally venerated mahjong. Although none of the games is illegal under state law, advertising for-money games is, and the notices in the Heritage Florida Jewish News were such attention-getters that the pots for the games often grew to exceed the $10 legal maximum. (Given mahjong’s sociological significance, news of the bust was even reported in Jerusalem’s Times of Israel.)

Perspective

On the heels of a similar program in Richmond, California, Washington, D.C.’s D.C. Council authorized funding in January to pay stipends to notorious criminals if they stop committing crimes. Police would identify up to 50 residents likely to violently offend again in 2016 and offer them periodic cash payments plus special training and educational benefits—as long as they stay out of trouble. Officials in Richmond (once overwhelmed by gun deaths) say their program, commenced almost 10 years ago, has produced a 76 percent drop in gun-related crime. n Reports of the prominence of animal urine in various cultures’ health regimens have surfaced periodically in News of the Weird, and in December, in Al Qunfudhah, Saudi Arabia, a shop selling camel urine (with a long history of alleged medicinal qualities) was closed by authorities after they found 70 camel-urine bottles actually filled with shopkeeper-urine. n About a decade ago, several fast-food restaurants (especially during evening shifts staffed by sometimes inadequately trained managers) were plagued by a prank phone-caller, posing as law enforcement requesting investigative help, asking managers to strip-search employees for “contraband” and to describe the searches in real time to the caller. (A suspect was arrested, and the calls stopped.) Managerial judgment was also on display at a Morro Bay, California, Burger King in January

By CHUCK SHEPHERD

when a prank caller somehow convinced BK employees to begin shattering the store’s windows because of a purported “gas leak.” Several windows were smashed in, and an investigation of the call is ongoing.

Awkward

In January, Israeli television journalist Eitam Lachover became the latest to be injured in a high-profile test of a “protective” vest when he volunteered to be stabbed on camera for a news segment. Vest company officials’ faces turned quickly sour as the blade penetrated the vest (though the wound was described as “light”). n In January, 15-year-old Anthony Ruelas, trying to rescue a classmate gasping from an asthma attack, became the latest casualty in public schools’ relentless insistence on “zero tolerance” of any deviation from rules. Gateway Middle School in Killeen, Texas, suspended Ruelas for two days for what others called his “heroic” assistance in gathering the girl in his arms and taking her to the nurse’s office—while the teacher, following “procedure,” waited passively for a nurse to email instructions. (Ruelas had defied the teacher, declaring, “(F-word) that—we ain’t got time to wait for no email from the nurse.”) The school district’s superintendent later cited a federal law that he interpreted as justifying the procedure.

Age-Old Prank Fails

Will Lombardi, 19, was charged with arson in Northampton, Massachusetts, in January after he acknowledged that “probably” he was the one who left a flaming box of excrement on the front porch of the family with whose daughter he was feuding. The fire was supposed to alarm the victim, who would try to stomp it out, thus spreading the feces and soiling the stomper’s shoes. In this case, however, the fire had spread a bit. (Bonus: Lombardi’s box selection was a used mailer with Lombardi’s name and address still readable.)

Least Competent Criminals

In January, a 27-year-old man in North Pole, Alaska, became the most recent forced to flee a crime scene on foot because he had locked his keys inside the getaway car. He was identified by surveillance video outside the two businesses he burglarized, but he was still at large. n Also in January, David Boulet, in Tacoma, Washington, became the most recent to haplessly try to steal a police car. As officers chased him on an earlier charge, Boulet spotted a parked, marked squad car (with lights flashing), but apparently thought, in the night’s darkness, that the car was momentarily unoccupied. He climbed in—and landed on the lap of a Tacoma police sergeant in the front seat.

Undignified Deaths

A 47-year-old man in Saint-Marcel, Italy, fell to his death in January as he leaned over a balcony railing to shake crumbs off his tablecloth after breakfast. The tablecloth reportedly slipped from his hands, leading him to (unsuccessfully) reach for it. n A 58-year-old driver dressed except for pants was killed in January in Detroit when he was thrown from his car by a crash. A Michigan State Police spokesman reported that the man had been viewing pornography as he drove.

Thanks This Week to Stan Kaplan, Mel Birge, Chuck Hamilton, Sam Scrutchins, Jenny Adams Powers, Bill Lawrence, Robin Daley, and Kelly Fitzpatrick, and to the News of the Weird Board Editorial Advisors.


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10 | FEBRUARY 24, 2016

The

Real You How a wild time-machine journey of DNA genetic testing helped one woman find a sense of belonging. By Sarah Aswell

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ne recent Christmas, my parents sent me a small box containing an empty vial. All I had to do, according to a note on the box that read like something from Alice in Wonderland, was spit. So I spat. Then I spat several more times to reach a fill line. And then I sent the sample off to a lab, where technicians extracted epithelial cells from my saliva and extracted DNA from those cells. While well over 99 percent of my DNA is exactly like yours (and about 96 percent the same as a chimp’s, by the way), the results I would receive would only involve the few and tiny differences in my strands—the sequences of nucleotides that make me truly me. Just spit, and find out more about where you came from, who you really are and what will happen to you next. It’s like your body telling a secret to your mind. It’s like tea leaves or palm readings or tarot cards—if any of those things were solidly based in scientific fact. It’s like getting a cheat sheet to your life, information that could change how you see and do everything. I had read articles here and there about the genetic-testing company, 23andMe, that analyzed my DNA. There were stories of people finding their long-lost children, but also stories of people finding out their dad wasn’t their biological dad. There were stories of people learning amazing facts about their past, but also stories about people discovering secrets better left buried. There were stories about how DNA testing could even save your life, but also stories about genetics companies hoarding medical information. Was I opening a double-stranded can of worms for no reason except curiosity? DNA testing would be like opening a gift (and mine was literally a gift), except the contents could be good or bad or both—and that’s the feeling I had when an email informed me several weeks later that my results were ready to view.

Deciding to test I am not exactly a stranger to the wonders of DNA. My parents both

happen to hold doctorates in medical science and have professional backgrounds that run fairly parallel to the unfolding story of genetic research over the past five decades. I grew up in a home where science ruled. When I asked where babies came from, I got a Darwinian fairytale from my father. When I asked what happens when we die, I got a blunt but loving lesson in decomposition from my mother. Although I was ambivalent about spending hundreds of dollars on genetic testing—current 23andMe kits run $199—my parents seemed much more aware of the benefits and opportunities that could come from the experience. Finally, they told me, with commercial DNA sequencing, we would receive three pieces of information denied to humans who came before us: unimaginable answers about our past (through analyzing our mitochondrial DNA),

insights into our present (through analyzing our traits) and hints about our future (through analyzing our known health risks). My mom, who has always loved being on the cutting edge of technology (she boasts having owned one of the first calculators, one of the first VCRs and, more recently, one of the first Apple watches), saw the potential of a revolution in how individuals could care for their own health, from how doctors would decide on cancer treatments to how annual physicals would be conducted. I didn’t quite understand the extent of her excitement about DNA home testing until I read her 23andMe profile, which reads simply, “To be able to participate in the dawn of personalized medicine is beyond my wildest dreams.”

My mom, Jane Aswell

How has getting your DNA analyzed changed your everyday life? JA: I had sporadic bouts of atrial fibrillation over 10 years. When I went into the emergency room the first time, they ran all sorts of tests but didn’t give me any information about what caused it. When I got my 23andMe results, I found out that I was homozygous for caffeine metabolism; I had a snip at two alleles that both indicated one of my enzymes that helps metabolize different drugs is not induced correctly. My gene doesn’t respond properly to break it down.

What does caffeine intake and caffeine metabolism have to do with atrial fibrillation? JA: An article noted by 23andMe showed that people who drank two to three cups of coffee and had a heart attack, they had this same snip. If you have two of them, you have an even worse time metabolizing drugs. When I found that out, it was an awakening. I realized that if I cut out caffeine completely, I could solve the problem.

And the problem is totally gone now? JA: It took about six months, but my heart completely straightened out. Twice after the first six months, I’ve drank caffeine and an arrhythmia happened within 24 hours. Since then, it’s been about five years with no incidents. I am not on any prescription drugs for it, like blood thinners. I’ve never gone back to the ER. My heart is happy. I can tell.


Processing the past The first half of your

My third cousin, Derek Dohrman

That is really cool. Are scientists researching how this knowledge could help cure HIV/AIDS? DD: Yes, they’ve actually helped someone by giving him stem cells from a donor with the CCR5 mutation, though I am not up-to-date about the most current research. Wow. It’s strange because that seems to be a significant thing to learn about yourself, and yet it probably doesn’t affect your everyday life. It’s probably not something that you think about regularly.

DD: Right. But you are still glad you know? DD: You know, after I found out about it, I learned a lot and read a lot about it. That’s what I like getting out of it. My initial reason for getting my DNA sequenced was contributing to the growing science of it all, and to learn along the way. And I’ve learned so much along the way.

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What’s the coolest thing you found out from getting your DNA sequenced? DD: That I’m basically immune to HIV. In my DNA, there is a part of a gene called CCR5 that I’m missing. Both my parents have a deleted mutation on the gene, and I inherited two. I have done a lot of reading on it and it makes me virtually immune to HIV. It codes for certain receptors on blood cells and since I can’t make those receptors, the virus can’t attach to my cells.

| PLANET JACKSON HOLE |

DNA results deal with your ancestors: who you are, based on where you came from. When I first logged onto the 23andMe website, I was welcomed by a visual breakdown of my ancestral composition based on region, a list of my known relatives with 23andMe accounts (based on our common genes) and a rough sketch of a shaggy Neanderthal, who informed me of my exact percentage of Neanderthal ancestry: 2.8 percent. I looked at the Neanderthal, who, like all sketches of Neanderthals, seemed to be looking off to the side, as if focused on evolving off the page. I hoped we did not share the same brow. The details of my ancestry results contained one immediate surprise—and one that was echoed in my father’s and grandmother’s results. Although we had considered it a fact that my “Maw-Maw” was Korean, her genes told a different story. She is actually 25 percent Japanese. Two generations later, I am about 15 percent Korean and 10 percent Japanese, with about 5 percent of random East Asian genes mixed in—math that only works due to chromosomal crossing over. While my immediate family took the news with interest and acceptance—after all, as my dad pointed out, you can literally see Korea from Japan—it was information that wasn’t especially welcomed by my older Korean relatives, all of whom harbor understandable animosity toward the Japanese after a long history of conflict between the nations and cultures. We debated

telling my 92-year-old grandmother at all, or simply withholding the information. One of my great uncles hasn’t spoken to my dad since he mentioned the genetic discovery, highlighting one of the possible hazards of getting your DNA analyzed: finding out that you are literally your own worst enemy. The next ancestry surprise landed in my inbox months later, when a stranger named Derek Dohrman sent me an email simply titled, “Fam?” It was from a computer programmer about my age who shared 1.56 percent of my analyzed segments, making him a probable second or third cousin. I referred him to my mom, who in addition to being a biologist is also a genealogy buff who has traced our family tree back hundreds of years. My mom looked at Derek’s DNA results as well as the results of his father, David. For a geneticist, the conclusion was black and white: “David shares a little more than 10 percent of genetic variants with me,” my mom explained. “So if you backtrack, his mother would have shared a fourth with me. While we haven’t proven anything, it’s pretty obvious that Derek’s grandmother was my half-sister.” It was a piece of information that fit into what we had already pieced together. David’s mother, Shirley, who passed away 15 years ago, was adopted and never knew her biological parents. My grandfather lived in Shirley’s hometown of Flint, Mich., at the time she was born. My mom suddenly had a half-sister. All of us suddenly had new blood relatives. Finding out I am one-tenth Japanese and that I had an aunt I never knew were certainly interesting facts, as was finding out my mitochondrial DNA traces my heritage back to the ancient Sami reindeer herders 40,000 years ago. But the real treasure is that these discoveries led to conversations with my family members and those conversations led to stories. My dad told me about my great-grandfather who lost everything after the Japanese invaded Korea in 1910. He immigrated to Hawaii after reading an advertisement that said he could get rich there, but then spent the rest of his life working on sugar-cane plantations in poor conditions, exploited for cheap labor. My mom told me about my grandfather’s life before he was a Louisiana farmer with eight kids, when he worked in a GM factory in Flint before he was fired for dancing all night and being late for work—not once, but twice. Possibly, we know now, he was dancing with a woman who became pregnant and gave their baby up for adoption. In these cases, the DNA information resulted not in an epiphany, but rather acted as a prompt. It was a gateway into stories I would have otherwise never heard. While a lot of people refer to DNA analysis as a way to find missing puzzle pieces, I found that my DNA results simply encouraged me to appreciate the puzzle.


What’s the most interesting aspect of DNA testing to you? MA: I enjoy connecting with the people who reach out to you because you are related. The community that it builds is really cool. I’ve had several people contact me who want to learn about my family and share information about their family. And each person has their own story. I had one person who wrote to me saying, “I want to find my parents before I die,” and that was powerful to me.

Peering into the future The far more controversial half of DNA testing

is the health results. Based on research conducted around the world (including some research involving data from 23andMe participants), the website outlines your health risks, your possible drug interaction, toxicity and response issues and your likely inherited conditions. For example, my biggest health risk is a 20.8 percent chance of being diagnosed with breast cancer during my lifetime, almost twice the risk of the average woman. The U.S. Food & Drug Administration heavily restricted DNA testing health results in 2014 and 2015 but have allowed 23andMe to share modified health results beginning again this year. The reason for the restrictions have been twofold. The FDA required 23andMe to prove its health results were accurate (and accurately portrayed), and they were concerned users of the service did not have enough knowledge or information to understand or process their results. Telling someone they have a genetic marker associated with colitis, for example, is very different than having colitis, developing colitis in the future or passing colitis on to your children. When I asked my mom about what she thought were the biggest drawbacks of getting your DNA tested, she echoed the second concern. “For people who don’t have much of a science background, they might jump to conclusions,” she said. “They might just assume they’re going to get a disease. They might not talk to their doctor about it. They might become depressed about it. Or they might start demanding expensive tests. It is not as simple as it used to be. It’s not like Mendelian inheritance with big B’s and little B’s like you learned in high school. The interactions of genes and proteins can throw everything off. You might have one marker that counteracts another marker. Our DNA is doing a lot more than most people have any idea.”

“One of the possible hazards to getting your

DNA analyzed: finding out that you are literally your own worst enemy.”

The main concern posed by critics of direct-to-consumer genetic testing is that there is no requirement for a doctor to be involved—no one to interpret or explain your results, no one to guide your medical decisions after analyzing your traits and risks, no one to tell you the difference between a diagnosis, a trait or a risk, not even someone to explain the extent of your risk, which can be more difficult to understand than it first appears. While doctors are now offering DNA analysis and being trained to interpret and use the information, it is not a mandatory component of testing. The 23andMe platform now tries to combat these issues by educating its users, which can be a challenge since what we know about genetics changes literally by the day. When I clicked on my 20.8 percent risk for breast cancer, for example, I was sent to a page with links to support groups, ge-

Are we all just looking for a way to relate to each other? MA: I think that it’s easy to find other ways to relate to each other, especially with today’s technology. You can go to a forum with people who share the same taste in music or movies. You can relate to people in so many ways because you can easily find so many people who like what you like. What makes people who are connected genetically different is the sense of belonging. It allows people to say, hey, we share something more innate. That’s the differentiator.

netic counselors and additional DNA tests specific to breast cancer. I also saw detailed information about my risk—of eight breast cancer markers, I had an increased risk for cancer based on six markers and decreased risk for two. The page also reminded me that getting breast cancer is only an estimated 27-40 percent genetic. Under that reminder is a list of steps I could take to protect myself, from maintaining my weight and limiting alcohol intake to avoiding hormonal birth control. I suddenly felt a huge, new accountability for my health. Now that I knew I was at risk for breast cancer, would I feel guilty every time I gained 5 pounds or ordered a pint of beer? If I do get diagnosed with breast cancer, will I feel that it was 6073 percent my fault? I also experienced some of the fear that many have raised about personalized medicine: Could this or other genetic information be used against me? I gave 23andMe permission to use my information for research, but how could others use it in the future? Could having breast cancer markers affect the price of my health insurance or my status in society or even my daughters’ abilities to find partners or have children? While some of these concerns edge toward conspiracy theory, there are real questions about how raw DNA data will be used 10, 20 or 100 years from now. And yet other people in my family had breakthroughs in their health that permanently changed their lives for the better. My mom discovered her body doesn’t metabolize caffeine and other drugs efficiently, which was causing her frightening heart problems. And my brother was able to better understand the autoimmune issues he has been struggling with since he was a kid. They agree the information they discovered was worth the risk of their genetic information now existing in a computer file.

COURTESY OF 23ANDME.COM

| PLANET JACKSON HOLE |

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My brother, Mike Aswell

Do you feel more connected to them just because you have a higher percentage of matching DNA? MA: Yes, I feel more connected because I know we share family somehow. But when you think about history, the further back you go, the more everyone is related. So that’s not the primary thing I think about. I think about the person’s story. We relate to each other through stories. It’s like when you meet someone who went to the same school as you did. You talk about such-and-such a building or about people you might have both known. You say, I grew up in Louisiana, and she says, my dad’s from there. It’s about making connections.


Looking into a mirror Perhaps the oddest part about DNA analysis is

that you get a lot of information you already know and a lot of simple statements about who you are, right now. I am a female with straight brown hair and brown eyes. I am lactose intolerant. I tend to have big babies. I like the taste of broccoli. I have wet earwax, whatever that means­. But from there, it gets stranger. As researchers delve deeper into genetic research, they are making connections between genes and traits that are more and more subtle and abstract. Promethease, a computer program that analyzes your raw data DNA file and compares it directly to SNPedia, a public human genetics database, provides anyone who has access to their DNA file with ongoing information about their variants as researchers make progress. For $5, I uploaded my 23andMe data file to have Promethease tell me that I have a higher pain tolerance than the average person, that I likely have slightly better body odor than average and that I probably perform well under pressure. These trait results sounded more like a horoscope than the results of DNA analysis, and in a way, they are, since the science is both complex and far from perfect. For me, being told who I am seemed much more personal than being told where I come from or where I might go. For example, I carry the A1 variant, which everyone agrees is bad. It’s associated with not being able to learn from your mistakes, with addiction problems, with the inability to be persistent and

’t know What we can DNA testing might be able to tell you your cancer risk, but it

“It is not as simple as it used to be ... Our DNA is doing a lot more than most people have any idea.”

with the inability to respond to errors. As I read about this trait, which lives in each and every one of my cells, I wondered how I should process this knowledge about myself. Do I fight against it? Do I accept it? Do I simply try to be more aware of my weaknesses? It’s the heart-dropping feeling you get when you walk into the break room and your co-workers are joking about something you do, except you know with certainty what they are saying is true. It’s a flaw in who you are, in plain language, laid bare.

can’t tell you if you’ll be hit by a bus tomorrow. It can tell you who your father is, but it can’t tell you who you consider your father. It can tell you you have trouble learning from your mistakes, but it can’t tell you you’ll never learn. As I spoke to my family members about their experiences with DNA testing, patterns and themes began to emerge. Most people said they didn’t think about their results very often. Most people said they are glad to know about future health risks. And everyone said they would do it again. But the biggest consensus surprised me. Almost everyone I spoke to said they had initially spit into that little vial to find out how they were different and special, but what they ended up feeling was closer to everyone else—that the 99 percent of our genome trumped that 1 percent. My new-to-me cousin Derek put it best: “It changed how I feel about myself. When you start to trace your DNA back, you see how many people you are related to, all over the world. It’s just a big web of people. It opens your mind up. There’s no reason to be so clannish or us-versus-them. We’re all related. It’s arbitrary and temporary to group ourselves or label ourselves. It’s made me a little bit more open.” A little more open and a little bit connected is how I feel, too. To reindeer herders and my Asian ancestors and people who have trouble learning from their mistakes. To a normal family who lives in Flint, Mich. To my four aunts who have battled breast cancer. To my mom and dad. You can see DNA testing as a time machine, a mirror, a fortune cookie, a diagnostic test, but perhaps what it is most is a simple reminder that we are all in this together. pjh Sarah Aswell is a freelance writer for the Missoula Independent, where this article first appeared.

I think that’s true of a lot of the DNA results—it’s like a fortune-teller warming up by telling you things that have happened in your past. Are there downsides to having your DNA analysis confirm things you already believe about yourself? BF: Going over the report, I noticed that I glossed over things that didn’t seem accurate or that didn’t fit with how I view myself and latched onto ones that confirmed my beliefs. It’s like a horoscope. Except it’s a horoscope that tells you if you’re likely to develop Alzheimer’s, which, frankly, I’d like to know about. Right—a weird kind of confirmation bias. My DNA told me I was a “likely sprinter.” And I was like … oh, well, that was probably some sort of mistake. How do you feel about getting your analysis done, cilantro and all?

BF: I can’t say that I think about it often. Maybe it’s because the report deals largely in terms like “likely” or “slightly less likely,” but very little about the genetic traits—which seems definite enough to be more than a curiosity. The thing I think about is the way it grounds you in the vastness of human history. I learned that my genetic haplogroup comes from people who once lived in an area (“Doggerland”) that is now the North Sea, but melting glaciers and rising seas eventually forced them out. It’s fascinating to think about my ancient ancestors standing around and looking at the trickling stream running through their home wondering if it’s their imaginations or if it’s actually getting bigger. That gives my day-to-day concerns and my sense of my place in human history some helpful context.

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But you absolutely already knew that you didn’t like cilantro. Why would you need a $200 DNA test to tell you that information about yourself? BF: In a way, the cilantro gene thing was a welcome surprise. I’ve been accused, not inaccurately, of being an unadventurous eater in the past. So when I asked for the cilantro-free version of things, a part of me felt like that was me being too picky or boring. Learning that there’s actually a genetic reason for it, it’s some

very, very minor form of validation—like walking around with a doctor’s note that justifies your tastes.

| PLANET JACKSON HOLE |

My husband, Ben Fowlkes

You’ve always hated the taste of cilantro. How does it taste to you? BF: It tastes bad. Honestly, I never would have been able to put my finger on what that bad taste was until I read the report that came with my DNA test, which said I have the gene that makes cilantro taste like soap. That’s not a perfect description. It doesn’t taste exactly like soap to me, but it does taste bad in the same this-is-not-food sense.


Quiet Cues

New Riot Act production delves into communication folly. BY KELSEY DAYTON

RIOT ACT

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here’s always nerves when starting a new show, but directing “Tribes,” by Nina Raine, had a new set of challenges for Macey Mott. She worried how she would communicate with her actors. “Tribes” is a seriocomedy about human communication. Billy is born deaf in a hearing family. He’s adapted to his family’s unconventional ways, but they’ve never tried to understand him. It’s not until he meets a woman on the brink of deafness that he finally understands what it means to be understood. The Riot Act board discovered the show while searching award-winning new plays. “Tribes” stood out. It was well written and rich, Mott said. The board was drawn to the story and the characters. “The story and characters really resonated with us,” Mott said. “It reminds us of how we need to communicate better, in general.” To do the show justice, Mott knew she needed a deaf actor for the character of Billy. Casting a hearing actor for the role would have been offensive to the deaf community,

The cast of Riot Act’s latest production, ‘Tribes’ will have audiences thinking twice about the way we interact with one another. as well as detrimental to the show, she said. Mott searched locally, but finally had to expand her search to a national level. That’s when she found Michelle Mary Schaefer. Mott brought her in from Rochester, New York. Schaefer does the character of Billy justice even though she’s a female playing a boy’s role, Mott said. Mott also had to find a way to teach the cast sign language. Dawn Webster, an instructor at Dancers’ Workshop, who also has a background in sign language, worked with Schaefer and the cast to get the signing right. The show uses spoken word, sign language, surtitles and captioning.

Mott hopes people learn that deafness is less of a handicap, and more of a culture. “I hope they recognize the need to connect and communicate with other people, whether verbally or not,” she said. The cast includes Scott Willis who plays Christopher, Deborah Supowit as Beth, Lace Lukas as Ruth, Frankie McCarthy as Daniel, Killian White as Silvia, and Schaefer as Billy. PJH

Riot Act Inc.’s production of “Tribes” Thursday through Saturday at Dancers’ Workshop’s Studio No. 1. Curtain at 7:30 p.m. Tickets are $15, $12 students/seniors.

Tribal Shred Native kids trade reservation for turns this week.

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ong before the gondola or the aerial tram—before Jackson Hole Mountain Resort was even an idea— it, and the land around Jackson, provided hunting grounds and homeland for Native Americans. “This is native land,” said Jeremy Pague with the Coyotl Group, a nonprofit that puts on the Intertribal Winter Sports Summit. For the second time the Coyotl Group is bringing youth from reservations to Jackson to learn to ski and snowboard for a week for the summit. This year, the 15 participants hail from Minnesota, New Mexico, South Dakota and Wyoming’s Wind River Indian Reservation. Eventually, Pague hopes to see the program helping 40 to 50 Native youths. The event is meant to show kids a life off the reservation and bring them together to talk about their shared and different experiences. It’s also meant to introduce them to snow sports. “That’s why we live here,” Pague said. “We all ski and snowboard. We know the benefits of these sports in our lives. It gets us outside and provides us exercise. It’s a conduit for these other teachings of patience,

COYOTL GROUP

| PLANET JACKSON HOLE |

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CREATIVE PEAKS

The second annual Intertribal Winter Sports Summit hosts Native youth from reservations across the country. Participants will learn to ski and snowboard and engage in cultural exchanges. strength and good diet.” Some of the kids live on reservations near small ski areas, or in communities with big skateboarding cultures, and, therefore are likely to continue with the sport. For some it might be a one-time foray into skiing or snowboarding, but it’s still an important opportunity to expose them to what options are available, and to kids from other reservations, Pague said. The event also brings youth leaders from the reservations together to collaborate on projects and learn from each other, Pague said. The kids ski and snowboard all week. Volunteers are welcome to join them on the

mountain. People are also invited to the opening ceremony, which starts at about 8:30 a.m., Wednesday. Organizers and kids will gather at the top of the Bridger Gondola in a circle for a blessing and prayer. The week event ends 7 p.m, Saturday with a party at the Pink Garter Theatre. “The Seventh Fire,” a documentary on native gangs, will screen. The film is free but donations, which will help fund next year’s summit, are welcome. PJH Intertribal Winter Sports Summit starts at 8:30 a.m. Wednesday with ceremony at the top of the Bridger Gondola. Ceremony is open to the public. Finishes at 7 p.m. Saturday at the Pink Garter Theater, free, donations accepted.


THIS WEEK: February 24-March 1, 2016

WEDNESDAY FEB. 24

n Chess Club 3:30pm, Valley of the Tetons Library Driggs, Free, 208-3545522 n Altered Books and Bookmaking 3:30pm, Art Association of JH, $50.00, 307-733-6379 n Apres with Maw Band 4:00pm, Mangy Moose, Free, 307-733-4913 n Free Tax Preparation: InPerson 4:00pm, Teton County Library Ordway Auditorium, Free, 307733-2164 n Winter Wonderland: Ice Skating on Town Square 4:30pm, Town Square, Free n Wednesday Night Lights Rail Jam 5:00pm, Snow King Mountain, $10.00 - $12.00, 307-733-6433 n Evening Yoga 6:00pm, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307-739-9025 n Great Until Late 6:00pm, Local Businesses, Free, 307-201-2294 n Cribbage Club 6:00pm, Valley of the Tetons Library Driggs, Free, 208-3545522 n Barbara Trentham Life Drawing 6:00pm, Art Association of Jackson Hole, $10.00, 307733-6379 n Ciao Italia! Italian for the Intrepid Traveler 6:00pm, CWC-Jackson, $100.00, 307-733-7425 n Make a Quilt Top in 4 Weeks! 6:00pm, CWC-Jackson, $75.00, 307-733-7425 n Open Gym - Adult Basketball 6:30pm, Teton Recreation Center, $3.75, 307-739-9025 n Bridge 6:30pm, Old Wilson Schoolhouse, Free, 307-413-9507 n Donation Dry Needling Clinic 6:30pm, Medicine Wheel Wellness, $15.00, 307-699-7480 n High Elevation Gardening Workshops 6:30pm, Rendezvous Upper Elementary School Library, $75.00, 413-575-0624 n Salsa at Dancers’ Workshop 7:00pm, Dancers’ Workshop, $12.00 - $16.00, 307-733-6398

n STACKHOUSE 7:00pm, Mangy Moose, Free, 307-733-4913 n Tavern Trivia 7:00pm, Town Square Tavern, Free, 307-733-3886 n Jose Antonio Vargas 7:00pm, Pink Garter Theatre, $21.49, 307-699-2680 n Songwriter’s Alley 8:00pm, Silver Dollar Showroom, Free, 307-733-2190 n KHOL Presents: Vinyl Night 9:00pm, The Rose, Free, 307733-1500 n Brad O’Brien 10:00pm, Town Square Tavern, Free, 307-733-3886

THURSDAY FEB. 25

n Kettlebells 7:00am, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307-739-9025 n Level 1 Avalanche: Decision Making In Avalanche Terrain 8:00am, CWC-Jackson, $375.00, 307-733-7425 n Zumba at Dancers’ Workshop 8:30am, Dancers’ Workshop, Free, 307-733-6398 n Yoga 9:00am, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307-739-9025 n Intermediate/Advanced Ballet @ Dancers’ Workshop 9:30am, Dancers’ Workshop, $12.00 - $16.00, 307-733-6398 n Tech Tutor 10:00am, Teton County Library, Free, 733-2164 ext. 218 n Curious Kids 10:15am, Jackson Hole Children’s Museum, $8.00, 206733-3996 n Storytime 10:30am, Teton County Library Youth Auditorium, Free, 307733-2164 n Intuitive Guidance Reading 10:30am, Spirit, $100.00, 307733-3382 n Storytime 11:00am, Teton County Library Youth Auditorium, Free, 307733-2164 n Open Gym - Adult Basketball 12:00pm, Teton Recreation Center, $3.75, 307-739-9025 n Public Skating 12:00pm, Snow King Sports & Events Center, $6.00 - $8.00, 307-201-1633

FEBRUARY 24, 2016 | 15

SEE CALENDAR PAGE 17

Compiled by Caroline Zieleniewski

| PLANET JACKSON HOLE |

n Boot Camp 7:00am, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307-739-9025 n Level 1 Avalanche: Decision Making In Avalanche Terrain 8:00am, CWC-Jackson, $375.00, 307-733-7425 n Pilates Mat Classes at Dancers’ Workshop 8:30am, Dancers’ Workshop, $12.00 - $16.00, 307-733-6398 n Toddler Gym 8:30am, Teton Recreation Center, $0.00 - $2.50, 307-7399025 n Yoga 9:00am, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307-739-9025 n Toddler Gym 10:00am, Teton Recreation Center, $0.00 - $2.50, 307-7399025 n Tech Tutor 10:00am, Teton County Library, Free, 733-2164 ext. 218 n Story TIme 10:00am, Valley of the Tetons Library Victor, Free, 208-7872201 n Open Hockey 10:15am, Snow King Sports & Event Center, $10.00, 307-2011633 n Fables Feathers & Fur 10:30am, National Museum of Wildlife Art, Free, 307-733-5771 n Lap Sit 11:00am, Valley of the Tetons Library, Free, 208-787-2201 n Ladies Day Wednesdays 11:00am, Snow King Mountain, $49.00 - $59.00, 307-699-4227 n Conversations for Common Ground 11:30am, St. John’s Episcopal Church, Free, 307-733-2603 n Public Skating 12:00pm, Snow King Sports & Events Center, $6.00 - $8.00, 307-201-1633 n Lunch & Learn 12:00pm, Spark JH, Free n Total Fitness 12:10pm, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307-739-9025 n Ranger-led Snowshoe Hike 1:30pm, Grand Teton National Park, Free, 307-739-3399 n Freestyle Skating 3:00pm, Snow King Sports & Event Center, $10.00, 307-2011633 n Chess Club: Grades K to 12 3:30pm, Teton County Library Youth Auditorium, Free, 307733-2164 x118


| PLANET JACKSON HOLE |

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MUSIC BOX Farming Virtuostic Riffs Pickin’ sensibilities and bluegrass bliss at the Tavern. BY AARON DAVIS @ScreenDoorPorch

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wang rock via Boulder, Colorado, Grant Farm is a honkytonkin’ range of bluegrass-meets-Bakersfield style country with plenty of blistering chicken pickin’ and extended arrangements. Led by guitarist/vocalist Tyler “The Champ” Grant—a National Flatpicking Champion and alumnus of Emmitt/Nershi Band and Drew Emmitt Band—the quartet includes Adrian “ACE” Engfer on bass and vocals, Sean “Magic” Macaulay on drums, and Kevin “Money” McHugh on keyboards and vocals. Impeccable musicianship featuring Grant’s mind-blowing Telecaster riffage is the take away from Grant Farm’s sophomore 2014 release, Plowin’ Time, which reached number two on the JamBand Radio charts. The band recently launched a Kickstarter campaign for 2016’s Kiss the Ground, which is due this spring. Be sure to check out episodes of their “Meeting on the Mountain,” a collaborative live broadcast experience which includes performances as well as interviews with the musical guests, and gives Grant Farm the opportunity to collaborate with some

of their favorite musicians. Find episodes at MeetingOnTheMountain.com. Grant Farm, 10 p.m., Thursday at Town Square Tavern. $10. 307Live.com, 733 3886.

Winship + West Through two decades of sets on the Targhee Bluegrass Fest stage, throw-together all-star combos with Mike Dowling, and stints with his touring bands Brother Mule and Growling Old Men, we’ve witnessed Ben Winship in various ensembles and taking on a variety of roles over the years. Linking up with like-minded progressive pickers that push the boundaries of bluegrass, old-time and obscure folk gems are some of his fortes. Contrasting simplicity with complexity is the entertainment, both for the performer and the audience. Enter Winship’s latest duo partner, Eli West. A Seattle-based multi-instrumentalist that divulges angular note phrasing and non-traditional improvisation, West has released three records with Cahalen Morrison, with whom he tours regularly

Enjoy the bluegrass chops of Colorado’s Grant Farm Thursday at the Tavern. throughout the U.S. and Europe. He’s an active ingredient. Also playing guitar, banjo and bouzouki with Jayme Stone’s Lomax Project, as well as with John Reischman and the Pine Siskens, West is a new hire for multi-Grammy nominee Sarah Jarosz’s band. “Eli and I first met backstage at a festival and then taught a few music camps together,” Winship said. “We’ll both be singing and switching instruments, digging into our original material and some of the obscure. Each of the two nights at Dornan’s will be different, song-wise, and we aim to keep it fresh… not over rehearsed.” West’s latest recording project, The Both, examines two takes on a song. It includes musicians Bill Frisell, Anna & Elizabeth, Dori Freeman and others. A recent Kickstarter campaign raised $11,540 to bring the album to fruition. PJH Ben Winship & Eli West, 8 p.m., Friday and Saturday at Dornan’s in Moose. $15 at Dornan’s, Valley Bookstore and The Liquor

Store. 733-2415. (Also, 3 to 6 p.m. Sunday at The Trap Bar. Free.)

WED: Songwriter’s Alley Open Mic featuring Kristin Sell (Silver Dollar), THUR: The Hof Band (après; Alpenhof) FRI: Ben Winship & Eli West (Dornan’s), That 1 Guy (Knotty Pine) SAT: Ben Winship & Eli West (Dornan’s), John Wayne’s World (The Rose) SUN: Dirt Road Band with Ben Winship & Eli West (après; Trap Bar) MON: Jackson Hole Hootenanny (Dornan’s), Tucker Smith & Kristin Sell (après; Mangy Moose) TUES: One Ton Pig (Silver Dollar), Open Mic (Virginian)

Aaron Davis is a songwriting troubadour, multi-instrumentalist, founding member of Screen Door Porch and Boondocks, and host of Songwriter’s Alley.


120th Annual ‘49er Ball Friday, 7pm at the Virginian Music by ‘Bootleg Flyer’ featuring The Miller Sisters. Silent Auction, Gambling, Costume Contest, Dance Lessons and more! n Tribes by Nina Raine 7:00pm, Dancers’ Workshop Studio 1, Center for the Arts, $12.00 - $15.00, 307-203-9067 n Gong Meditation: Nutrition for Your Nervous System 7:00pm, Medicine Wheel Wellness, $20.00, 307-699-7480 n Major Zephyr 7:30pm, Silver Dollar Showroom, Free, 307-732-3939 n Salsa Night 9:00pm, The Rose, Free, 307733-1500 n Disco Night 10:00pm, Stagecoach Bar, Free, 307-733-4407 n The Grant Farm 10:00pm, Town Square Tavern, , 307-733-3886

FRIDAY FEB. 26

n Boot Camp 7:00am, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307-739-9025 n Toddler Gym 8:30am, Teton Recreation Center, $0.00 - $2.50, 307-7399025 n bootybarre® at Dancers’ Workshop 9:00am, Dancers’ Workshop, $12.00 - $16.00, 307-733-6398 n Yoga 9:00am, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307-739-9025 n Portrait Drawing Club 9:00am, Art Association of Jackson Hole, $10.00, 307733-6379

FEBRUARY 24, 2016 | 17

SEE CALENDAR PAGE 18

n Jazzercise 5:30pm, Teton Recreation Center, $10.00, 307-739-9025 n Total Fitness 5:30pm, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307-739-9025 n Great Until Late 6:00pm, Local Businesses, Free, 307-201-2294 n Intermediate Photoshop 6:00pm, Art Association of Jackson Hole, $130.00, 307733-6379 n ACT Prep Course 6:00pm, Teton County Library Youth Auditorium, Free, 307733-2164 n Raising Media Smart Kids 6:00pm, Teton County Library Ordway Auditorium, Free, 307733-2164 n Ciao Italia! Italian for the Intrepid Traveler 6:00pm, CWC-Jackson, $100.00, 307-733-7425 n Whiskey Experience 6:00pm, VOM FASS Jackson Hole, Free, 307-734-1535 n Open Gym - Adult Soccer 6:30pm, Teton Recreation Center, $3.75, 307-739-0925 n Armchair Adventures 6:30pm, Teton Recreation Center, $5.00, 307-739-9025 n JH Community Band Rehearsal 7:00pm, Center for the Arts Performing Arts Wing, Free, 307-200-9463

| PLANET JACKSON HOLE |

n Cribbage 1:00pm, Valley of the Tetons Driggs, Free, 208-354-5522 n Freestyle Skating 3:00pm, Snow King Sports & Event Center, $10.00, 307-2011633 n Culture through Clay 3:30pm, Art Association of Jackson Hole, $150.00 $180.00, 307-733-6379 n Apres with Stack and the Attack 4:00pm, Mangy Moose, Free, 307-733-4913 n Thursday Gates 4:00pm, Snow King Mountain, $49.00 - $59.00, 307-699-4227 n Yoga 4:15pm, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307-739-9025 n Metal Working Series - All Classes 4:15pm, Art Association of Jackson Hole, $125.00 $158.00, 307-733-6379 n Winter Wonderland: Ice Skating on Town Square 4:30pm, Town Square, Free n Type 2 Diabetes Support Group in Spanish 5:00pm, Moose-Wapiti Classroom, St. John’s Medical Center, Free, 307-739-7678 n Energy Conservation Works & Spark JH Chamber Mixer 5:00pm, Spark JH, Free, 307201-2309


| PLANET JACKSON HOLE |

18 | FEBRUARY 24, 2016

SEE CALENDAR PAGE 20

ELIZABETH KOUTRELAKOS

n Ballet Workout at Dancers’ Workshop 9:30am, Dancers’ Workshop, $12.00 - $16.00, 307-733-6398 n Zumba at Dancers’ Workshop 10:00am, Dancers’ Workshop, $12.00 - $16.00, 307-733-6398 n Toddler Gym 10:00am, Teton Recreation Center, $0.00 $2.50, 307-739-9025 n Open Hockey 10:15am, Snow King Sports & Event Center, $10.00, 307-201-1633 n Curious Kids 10:15am, Jackson Hole Children’s Museum, $8.00, 206-733-3996 n Free Tax Preparation: Drop-Off Service 10:30am, Teton County Library Computer Lab, Free, 307-733-2164 n Yoga 12:00pm, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307739-9025 n Public Skating 12:00pm, Snow King Sports & Events Center, $6.00 - $8.00, 307-201-1633 n Feathered Friday 12:00pm, Jackson Hole & Greater Yellowstone Visitor Center, Free, 307-201-5433 n Total Fitness 12:10pm, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307739-9025 n Story Time 1:00pm, Valley of the Tetons Library Driggs, Free, 208-354-5522 n Lego Club 1:00pm, Valley of the Tetons Library Driggs, Free, 208-354-5522 n Mary Poppins 1:00pm, The Center Theater, $12.00 - $22.00, 307-733-4900 n Ranger-led Snowshoe Hike 1:30pm, Grand Teton National Park, Free, 307739-3399 n Freestyle Skating 3:00pm, Snow King Sports & Event Center, $10.00, 307-201-1633 n Blaze & Kelly at The Trap 3:00pm, The Trap Bar, Free, 307-353-2300 x 1360 n Wine Tasting 4:00pm, The Liquor Store & Wine Loft, Free, 307-733-4466 n Winter Wonderland: Ice Skating on Town Square 4:30pm, Town Square, Free n Ladies Night Fridays 5:00pm, Snow King Mountain, $49.00 - $59.00, 307-699-4227 n Friday Night Meditation 6:00pm, Zendler Chiropractic, Free, 307-6998300 n Great Until Late 6:00pm, Local Businesses, Free, 307-201-2294 n Mary Poppins 6:00pm, The Center Theater, $12.00 - $22.00, 307-733-4900 n Whiskey Experience 6:00pm, VOM FASS Jackson Hole, Free, 307734-1535 n Open Gym - Adult Soccer 6:30pm, Teton Recreation Center, $3.75, 307739-0925

GET OUT

Passion and Pain Celebrating a mother’s militant love for crosscountry skiing. BY ELIZABETH KOUTRELAKOS

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he essence of cross-country skiing can be, well, variable this time of year especially during spring melt. I carry the utmost respect for those lowland explorers and oftentimes have a hard time believing they are managing ever-changing conditions. The adventurer that I have developed the most respect for, possibly due to our blood connection, is my mother. When she’s here on vacation, she turns every day into an epic journey. Below are some of her classic cross-country ski places to which she consistently journeys despite the variable conditions of low-angle terrain.

Signal Mountain If you can recall the day Teton Village blew down, perhaps it will help jog your memory on the epically windy conditions that day. I was mentally prepared to make breakfast and just hang with the folks but before I even cut the potatoes, they were out the door and raring to get outside in the pouring rain. Cautioning them of the “high wind” warning throughout the state, I was shocked at their motivation. In the comfort of my own home, I shivered as trees bent in half and the wind rattled the thin glass windows. I called them and told them to be careful.

Left: A cross country newbie flails down the road. Top right: The merciless leader allows participants a quick break. Bottom right: Soaking in the views from Shadow Mountain. They reported conditions were “great” and that the pouring rain had turned to snow and wind after rounding the bend. They apparently trekked the entire way up that 800-foot vertical road in that storm, wind and all. “It was so beautiful. We didn’t see a soul,” reported my mother as she got back. I debated whether souls that want to stay living had that strong of a desire to go cross-country skiing in windstorms. My father was a bit more pragmatic when looking back at venturing into the eye of the storm, noting that the wind had put a damper on his ability to have a snack. He said he was glad he brought a good raincoat and that he was happy for the day to be done.

Granite Canyon to Phelps Lake Now, one does not need to venture all the way to Phelps Lake, for Granite Canyon trailhead allows one to walk endlessly in circles in meadows. The journey to Phelps is only necessary if one tires of these meadows and allows the option of a new and exciting view that isn’t a flat meadow. The day after a large wind event, my mother skied around here and reported, “the most terrible conditions I’ve ever had.” The squall had blown off all of the snow, simulating conditions similar to an ice skating rink of infinite proportion. I asked her why then had she stayed out that long, and how she survived that day. She replied that the thought of powder somewhere in those woods kept her going. “I just thought it would be soft somewhere,” she said. She even journeyed to the valley junction of Granite Canyon and attempted to ski down the large hill. While there seemed to be a light dusting of powder there, the proper hill line was unfortunately blocked by a few

large, freshly fallen trees.

Shadow Mountain

After a week of venturing mostly solo, the cross-country ski hound successfully solicited a few other members of my family to join her on her last jaunt. Not everyone owned her specific expertise on the sport and there was some concern over everyone’s ability to survive the day, given the unpredictable conditions reported by the trusted guide. I tried to convince her to just ski the park road to which she recounted her distaste for the flats. She had her mind set on some vertical and she was going to drag anyone with her that wanted to go. That sunny day I watched my beloved family members gear up, not knowing what they were getting into. While icy conditions persisted at the bottom of the road, packed powder varied with dust on crust made for perfect cross-country ski conditions. The warmth and sunlight aided our ability to maintain normal blood sugar levels (snack breaks), with my mother’s approval, of course. Plus, this ski offered great views of the peaks.

Final Note

Watching my mother enjoy this sport in rain, wind, snow and sun has been quite inspiring. But alas, I’m still not sure if I have that desire burning inside of me. The whole action of cross-country skiing is a full body workout and I’m not convinced the sacrifice is worth it. I choose the act of drinking coffee a little bit longer. For those looking for something more, why not explore the options of cross-country skiing? You may even grow to love it. PJH


120TH ANNUAL

McKenna Rickaby 307.734.8226

Bettie Taylor 509.362.1139

February 27th at 7:00 pm at the Virginian

TWO GRAND PRIZES

$500 EACH

Music by ‘Bootleg Flyer’ featuring The Miller Sisters

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FEBRUARY 24, 2016 | 19

Save the Date!

| PLANET JACKSON HOLE |

SILENT AUCTION | GAMBLING | DOMINO’S PIZZA | COSTUME CONTEST Dance Lessons – 7:30 p.m. (courtesy of Dancer’s Workshop)


| PLANET JACKSON HOLE |

20 | FEBRUARY 24, 2016

WELL, THAT HAPPENED

SATURDAY FEB. 27

n Zumba at Dancers’ Workshop 9:00am, Dancers’ Workshop, $12.00 - $16.00, 307-733-6398 n Skate Into Spring 9:30am, Wilson Centennial Trail/Stilson, $35.00, 307-7399025 n Teton Valley Winter Farmer’s Market 10:00am, MD Nursery, Free, 208-354-8816 n Adult Oil Painting 10:00am, The Local Galleria, $25.00, 208-270-0883 n Altered Books and Bookmaking 10:00am, Art Association of JH, $50.00, 307-733-6379 n Parents’ Ski Saturdays 10:00am, Snow King Mountain, $49.00 - $59.00, 307-699-4227 n Historic Miller House 10:00am, National Elk Refuge, Free, 307-201-5433 n Free Tax Preparation: Drop-Off Service 10:30am, Teton County Library Computer Lab, Free, 307-7332164 n Intuitive Guidance Reading 10:30am, Spirit, $100.00, 307733-3382 n Tram Jam 11:00am, Base of the Bridger Gondola, Free

SEE CALENDAR PAGE 21

n Winter Wonderland: Ice Skating on Town Square 12:00pm, Town Square, Free n Practice ACT Exam 1:00pm, Teton County Library Youth Auditorium, Free, 307733-2164 n Mary Poppins 1:00pm, The Center Theater, $12.00 - $22.00, 307-733-4900 n Ranger-led Snowshoe Hike 1:30pm, Grand Teton National Park, Free, 307-739-3399 n Raptor Encounters 2:00pm, Teton Raptor Center, $10.00 - $12.00, 307-203-2551 n Blaze & Kelly at The Trap 3:00pm, The Trap Bar, Free, 307-353-2300 x 1360 n Chanman Solo in the K BAR at the Teton Mountain Lodge and Spa 4:00pm, K BAR, Free, 307 413 1348 n Snowboard Saturday Adult Classes 5:00pm, Snow King Mountain, $49.00 - $59.00, 307-699-4227 n Great Until Late 6:00pm, Local Businesses, Free, 307-201-2294 n Mary Poppins 6:00pm, The Center Theater, $12.00 - $22.00, 307-733-4900 n Whiskey Experience 6:00pm, VOM FASS Jackson Hole, Free, 307-734-1535 n Open Gym - Adult Soccer 6:30pm, Teton Recreation Center, $3.75, 307-739-0925 n Arty Gras 6:30pm, The Wildwood Room, $10.00 - $25.00, 208-354-4278 n 120th ‘49er Costume Ball hosted by the Lions Club of Jackson Hole 7:00pm, Virginian Lodge Ballroom, $15.00 - $20.00, 307690-4730 n Tribes by Nina Raine 7:00pm, Dancers’ Workshop Studio 1, Center for the Arts, $12.00 - $15.00, 307-203-9067 n DJ Jeff 7:00pm, Camp Creek, Free, 307-734-0665 n Jackson Hole Moose Hockey 7:30pm, Snow King Sports & Event Center, $5.00 - $10.00, 307-201-1633 n Quenby & the West of Wayland Band 7:30pm, Silver Dollar Showroom, Free, 307-733-2190 n Ben Winship & Eli West 8:00pm, Dornans, $15.00, 307733-2415 n Phil Round 8:00pm, Knotty Pine, Free, 208-787-2866

n Jamaica Night 10:30pm, Pinky G’s, Free, 307734-7465 n Jameson Music Series presents John Wayne’s World 10:30pm, The Rose, Free, 307733-1500 ANDREW MUNZ

n Pam Drews Phillips Plays Jazz 7:00pm, The Granary at Spring Creek Ranch, Free, 307-7338833 n Tribes by Nina Raine 7:00pm, Dancers’ Workshop Studio 1, Center for the Arts, $12.00 - $15.00, 307-203-9067 n Free Public Stargazing 7:30pm, Center for the Arts, Free, 3074134779 n Jackson Hole Moose Hockey 7:30pm, Snow King Sports & Event Center, $5.00 - $10.00, 307-201-1633 n Quenby & the West of Wayland Band 7:30pm, Silver Dollar Showroom, Free, 307-733-2190 n Ben Winship & Eli West 8:00pm, Dornans, $15.00, 307733-2415 n That 1 Guy 9:00pm, Knotty Pine, $5.00, 208-787-2866 n Friday Night DJ with EPS 10:00pm, Pink Garter Theatre, Free, 307-733-1500

SUNDAY FEB. 28

n Winter Wonderland: Ice Skating on Town Square 12:00pm, Town Square, Free n Ski with the Godfather-Bill Briggs 12:00pm, Snow King Mountain, $49.00 - $59.00, 307-699-4227 n Dirt Road Band at The Trap 3:00pm, Trap Bar and Grill, Free, 307-353-2300 x 1360 n Open Gym - Adult Volleyball 4:00pm, Teton Recreation Center, $3.75, 307-739-9025 n Apres with Major Zephyr 4:00pm, Mangy Moose, Free, 307-733-4913 n Crazy Tom’s 10th Annual Ultra Formal Oscar Party 5:00pm, Town Square Tavern, Free, 307-733-3886 n Stagecoach Band 6:00pm, Stagecoach, Free, 307-733-4407 n Taize 6:00pm, St. John’s Episcopal Church, Free, 307-733-2603 n Great Until Late 6:00pm, Local Businesses, Free, 307-201-2294 n Square Dancing 6:30pm, Old Wilson Schoolhouse Community Center, $40.00 - $60.00, 307-413-9507 n An Evening with Garrison Keillor 7:00pm, The Center Theater, $95.00, 307-733-4900 n Hospitality Night 9:00pm, The Rose, Free, 307733-1500 n Uncle Stackhouse 10:00pm, Town Square Tavern, Free, 307-733-3886

MONDAY FEB. 29

n Boot Camp 7:00am, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307-739-9025 n Pilates Mat Classes at Dancers’ Workshop 8:30am, Dancers’ Workshop, $12.00 - $16.00, 307-733-6398 n Toddler Gym 8:30am, Teton Recreation Center, $0.00 - $2.50, 307-7399025 n Jazzercise 9:00am, Teton Recreation Center, $10.00, 307-739-9025

Burning Man Eternal Welcome to Pusher Street, where artists, outcasts and drug deals abound. BY ANDREW MUNZ @AndrewMunz

A

fter journeying across the ocean via ferry for three days, I made it to Copenhagen with barely a scratch (I cut my hand on something at some point). Since my life in Iceland is fairly devoid of thrills, I was ready for a bit of Euro city culture—cafés, shopping streets, old architecture; the works. I initially stayed with Maja Johannesson, a classmate from Jackson Hole High School who spent the 2004-05 school year as an exchange student, and she was kind enough to show me around. When she asked what I wanted to see, I threw the choice back to her, saying I preferred authentic culture to dusty museums. “Then I’ll take you to Christiania,” she said. We left the apartment, took a few buses and trains, and meandered into the lawless grotto of Christiania, an alternative residential neighborhood in the center of Copenhagen. Beyond an archway heralding “Here There Be Dragons” lies a recycled alleyway shanty town, a gypsy park that exudes an odd mix of unnerving and peaceful. Extremely unsettling vendors with masks over their faces sell marijuana out of handmade stalls in an area known as “Pusher Street.” Signs reading, “No Running: It Causes Panic” are scattered throughout the central square. Maja and I walked squinting our eyes in the sunshine as an old, decrepit hound trudged along on the pathway in front of us leaking urine with every step. A man with wild red hair and tattered clothes smoked a cigar-sized joint. We took a seat on some picnic tables where a handful of 20-somethings were rolling their freshly purchased weed into joints. Maja and I lit up some weedless cigarettes of our own and basked in the rare February sunlight. Conversations were spoken in calm, quiet voices and no cars could be heard. I felt like I had been transported out of Denmark entirely. And yet Christiania is almost indicative of the laid-back, relaxed lifestyle Danes are famous for.

The sole picture the author was able to snap in Christiania. (The anarchist neighborhood forbids photography.)

It’s an unwritten rule in Christiania that one shouldn’t take notice of others, but I couldn’t help but watch the other travelers and locals as they partook in their illegal activity within such a bizarre nook of an old city. These young men and women had no problem purchasing drugs from masked vendors in their camouflage stalls, and were now spread out on picnic tables with their laptops and journals enjoying the bizarre freedom they had found. “Oh, shit,” said one American girl, “there’s no Wi-Fi.” With about 850 permanent residents, Freetown Christiania has been an autonomous neighborhood since 1989 when supervision responsibility was transferred away from the city of Copenhagen to the state government. Since then, it’s become a haven for artists, vagabonds, anarchists and outcasts. The government would like nothing more to clear out the neighborhood, but protests and tourist interest have, so far, thwarted their attempts. But that doesn’t mean Christiania is the type of attraction you show to your kids. Drug-fueled gang conflicts have erupted on Pusher Street. In 2009, a grenade exploded near Café Nemoland, injuring five or six people, blowing the jaw off one 22-year-old man. Maja and I proceeded to walk around the perimeter, but signs indicated that we were not allowed to take photos. Scattered around the area are various handmade houses constructed from old slabs of sheetrock and aluminum siding. Graffiti blankets every surface, and cigarette butts and small pieces of trash litter the ground. We passed one dreadlocked artist painting a gorgeous Danish landscape under the awning of his shelter. I told him it was beautiful work and he thanked me, smiling with rotted teeth. As we made our way out of the neighborhood we passed under an arch informing us that we were once again entering the European Union. The sound of sirens reentered my ears. Pigeons and people bustling about with their shopping bags filled the sidewalks. Looking back on Christiania, I realized that it’s the anarchist paradise so many 20-somethings dream of being a part of; a permanent Burning Man. I experienced the unique culture I asked to see, but even though I’m an artistic adventurer at heart, I had a profound need to return to my first-world comfort zone. “So,” I said, turning to Maja. “Brunch?” PJH


n Hootenanny at Dornans 6:00pm, Dornans, Free, 307733-2415 n Evening Yoga 6:00pm, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307-739-9025 n Great Until Late 6:00pm, Local Businesses, Free, 307-201-2294 n Foreign Policy Series: Korean Choices 6:00pm, Teton County Library Ordway Auditorium A, Free, 307-733-2164 n Make a Quilt Top in 4 Weeks! 6:00pm, CWC-Jackson, $75.00, 307-733-7425 n Skiers can Tango, and so can You! 6:30pm, Center for the Arts, Free, 917-613-3176 n Open Gym - Adult Basketball 6:30pm, Teton Recreation Center, $3.75, 307-739-9025

TUESDAY MAR. 1

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FEBRUARY 24, 2016 | 21

n Kettlebells 7:00am, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307-739-9025 n KHOL Winter 2016 Membership Drive 8:00am, KHOL, 307-733-5465 n Zumba at Dancers’ Workshop 8:30am, Dancers’ Workshop, Free, 307-733-6398 n Yoga 8:30am, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307-739-9025 n Ballet Workout at Dancers’ Workshop 9:30am, Dancers’ Workshop, $12.00 - $16.00, 307-733-6398 n Toddler Time 10:05am, Teton County Library, Free, 733-2164 ext. 118 n Open Gym - Adult Basketball 12:00pm, Teton Recreation Center, $3.75, 307-739-9025 n Public Skating 12:00pm, Snow King Sports & Events Center, $6.00 - $8.00, 307-201-1633 n MELT at Dancers’ Workshop 12:10pm, Dancers’ Workshop, $12.00 - $16.00, 307-733-6398 n Spin 12:10pm, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307-733-5056 n Freestyle Skating 3:00pm, Snow King Sports & Event Center, $10.00, 307-2011633

n Afterschool Monthly Workshops - All 17 Sessions 3:30pm, Borshell Children’s Studio, $180.00 - $216.00, 307733-6379 n Mixed Media Madness 3:30pm, Art Association of JH, $50.00, 307-733-6379 n Free Tax Preparation: Drop-Off Service 3:30pm, Teton County Library Computer Lab, Free, 307-7332164 n White Lightning Open Mic Night 4:00pm, The Trap Bar & Grill, Free, 307-353-2300 n Apres with Fresh Roy and the Winch Cats 4:00pm, Mangy Moose, Free, 307-733-4913 n Yoga 4:15pm, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307-739-9025 n Winter Wonderland: Ice Skating on Town Square 4:30pm, Town Square, Free n Tele Tuesdays 5:00pm, Snow King Mountain, $49.00 - $59.00, 307-699-4227 n Jazzercise 5:30pm, Teton Recreation Center, $10.00, 307-739-9025 n Total Fitness 5:30pm, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307-739-9025 n Great Until Late 6:00pm, Local Businesses, Free, 307-201-2294 n Scholarship Application Help Nights 6:00pm, Teton County Library Computer Lab, Free, 307-7332164 n Language Exchange 6:00pm, Valley of the Tetons Library Driggs, Free, 208-3545522 n Beginning Painting: Acrylic 6:00pm, Center for the Arts, $130.00, 307-733-6379 n Teton County Republican Party Caucus 6:00pm, Antler Inn Conference Room, Free, 307-413-2267 n Open Gym - Adult Volleyball 6:30pm, Teton Recreation Center, $3.75, 307-739-9025 n Hip Hop at Dancers’ Workshop 7:00pm, Dancers’ Workshop, $12.00 - $16.00, 307-733-6398 n Language Exchange Night 7:00pm, Valley of the Tetons Library, Free, 208-787-2201

| PLANET JACKSON HOLE |

n Zumba at Dancers’ Workshop 9:30am, Dancers’ Workshop, $12.00 - $16.00, 307-733-6398 n Kindercreations 9:30am, Art Association of Jackson Hole, $85.00 - $102.00, 307-733-6379 n Toddler Gym 10:00am, Teton Recreation Center, $0.00 - $2.50, 307-7399025 n Open Hockey 10:15am, Snow King Sports & Event Center, $10.00, 307-2011633 n Little Hands, Little Feet 11:00am, Art Association of Jackson Hole, $85.00 - $102.00, 307-733-6379 n Public Skating 12:00pm, Snow King Sports & Events Center, $6.00 - $8.00, 307-201-1633 n Total Fitness 12:10pm, Teton Recreation Center, $8.00, 307-739-9025 n Story Time 1:00pm, Valley of the Tetons Library Driggs, Free, 208-3545522 n Ranger-led Snowshoe Hike 1:30pm, Grand Teton National Park, Free, 307-739-3399 n Freestyle Skating 3:00pm, Snow King Sports & Event Center, $10.00, 307-2011633 n Maker Monday’s 3:00pm, Valley of the Tetons Library Victor, Free, 208-7872201 n Handbuilding Plus! 3:30pm, Art Association of Jackson Hole, $150.00 $180.00, 307-733-6379 n After School Kidzart Club 3:30pm, Art Association of Jackson Hole, $195.00 $234.00, 307-733-6379 n Heart Centered Mixed Media 3:30pm, Art Association of Jackson Hole, $5.00, 307-7336379 n Apres with Tucker Smith 3-piece band 4:00pm, Mangy Moose, Free, 307-733-4913 n Barre Fusion at Dancers’ Workshop 5:30pm, Dancers’ Workshop, $12.00 - $16.00, 307-733-6398 n Library Book Club: “Orphan Train” by Christina Baker Kline 5:30pm, Teton County Library Ordway Auditorium B, Free, 307-733-2164


| PLANET JACKSON HOLE |

22 | FEBRUARY 24, 2016

ANNIE FENN, MD

THE FOODIE FILES

Après Appetites From bloodies and sloshies to sushi and sausage, investigating new and old ways to prolong that powdery feeling. BY ANNIE FENN, M.D. @jacksonfoodie

T

he dictionary defines après ski as the social activities that follow a day’s skiing. Around here, après is used more commonly as a verb. Although I’ve been getting out to the Village to ski quite a bit this year, I haven’t had the time to stay and après most days. With just one month left to the ski season, however, I decided it was time for a crash course in where to eat, drink, and relax after the lifts shut down. Back in 1994 when I purchased my first Jackson Hole Mountain Resort season pass, deciding where to après was easy. Most ski days ended at the Mangy Moose or the beloved Village Café (RIP). My tribe usually favored the VC for the ski bum vibe, the New York style slices of pizza, and the cheap draft beers. And yes, drinking shots in unison on the shot ski was usually part of the fun.

Top: The Venison Carpaccio at Osteria is the author’s latest après ski obsession. Left: Slow things down as you sip on a Basil Martini at the salumi bar at Osteria. Right: The Poke Salad at Sudachí is a layered tower of sashimi. Fast-forward a few years. The VC has shut down but Teton Village has exploded with options for prolonging the feeling of a great ski day. The Moose is still a lot of fun, but now it’s always packed to the rafters. As are a lot of our favorite watering holes: Teton Thai, I’ll be back as soon as things quiet down. And my après priorities have changed—gone are the days of lining up at the shot ski and finding the cheapest chicken wings. I want a decent glass of wine, some healthyish food, and somewhere with a relaxed vibe to hang out with my ski buddies.

Most civilized après ski If great food and a mellow atmosphere are amongst your après priorities, duck into Il Villaggio Osteria between 3 and 5 p.m. Normally packed during lunch and dinner service, Osteria is an oasis of calm at this time. Order a basil martini or my new favorite wine by the glass: Don Cosimo Catarratto, a white varietal from Sicily that’s crisp and dry with lemony notes. It pairs perfectly with the Tuna Tartare and the Oven Roasted Olives. There are chicken wings (calabrese-spiced) on the menu, but Chef Serge Smith is also mixing things up with new dishes, like my latest obsession, the Venison Carpaccio. The thinnest slices of venison are topped with celery leaves, savory granola, shavings of fiore sardo cheese, and drizzles of coffee oil. Actually, just give me a whole bowl

of Smith’s coffee-infused granola and I’ll be happy.

Après sushi? Yes, please

For the best deals on sushi, hop on the START bus (because we all know that après and driving don’t mix) to Sudachí and snag a seat at the bar between 5 and 6 p.m. Ask for the happy hour menu and enjoy half-off sushi and drinks, $3 hand rolls, and $8 bowls of ramen. Or check out the Japanese pub-style Izakaya menu offered Saturday through Monday. Big appetites will love the Steamed Buns, topped with crispy pork belly, hoisin sauce, and cucumber salad. The Poke Salad has completely won me over as the perfect après ski dish: a layered tower of avocado, steamed rice, ogo, mixed greens, and furikake, all topped with a generous serving of expertly prepared sashimi.

Après with the kids

When my little rippers were younger, finding a kid-friendly place to après was paramount. Cranky and on the verge of collapse from all the junk food they ate at ski school (thankfully, I hear the food has gotten much better), the kids après session was all about getting good food in their bellies and for me, a glass of wine in hand. Now parents have really great options for après-ing with the little ones. Head to the Alpenhof Bistro and order them a pot of Alpen


ANNIE FENN, MD

Top: One of the perks of choosing to après at the Bodega? Chef Joel Tate will fix you a housemade brat. Left: Dip a skewer into cheesy fondue at the kid-friendly après environs of Alpenhof Bistro. Right: Ask Andy, a barkeep at Bodega, to pour you a refreshing Greyhound Sloshie.

Go old school at Steigler’s

starting with a cast iron skillet of Chippolota Pfandl — 10 mini veal bratwurst in puff pastry served with haus senf, the addictive house mustard. The Burgermeister is a splurge at $19, but it’s one of Jackson’s best burgers made from beef tenderloin ground in house, topped with bacon and Gruyére cheese, and it easily feeds two people. Don’t skip dessert: I can’t go to Steigler’s without getting the Apfel Strudel with vanilla rum sauce, as good as any strudel I had while dining in huts in the Dolomites.

Missing that special après ski vibe you could only find at the VC? If you call yourself a ski bum, then you probably already know about Bodega. I’ve been popping into Bodega a few times a week ever since Fine Dining Restaurant Group took over Teton Village’s only gas station/convenience store and turned it into a wine shop, butcher shop, gourmet take-away, and bar. With a killer après ski special of a draught beer and brat for $9, Bodega has become THE place to keep that happy powder day feeling going; the tiny five-seat bar is constantly full and spills out into the parking lot. Ask bartender Andy

After delivering babies and practicing gynecology for 20 years in Jackson, Annie traded her life as a doctor to pursue her other passion: writing about food, health, sustainability and the local food scene. Follow her snippets of mountain life, with recipes, at jacksonholefoodie.com and on Instagram @ jacksonholefoodie.

FEBRUARY 24, 2016 | 23

“Gone are the days of lining up at the shot ski and finding the cheapest chicken wings.”

It’s always a treat to slip into a booth at the Copper Bar in Steigler’s Austrian Restaurant and take in the old school atmosphere. A fire is always crackling in the fireplace that separates the bar from the dining room and owner Peter Steigler greets you as if you were a longlost friend. Photos of Peter’s ski racing Olympic gold medalist brother, Pepi, adorn the walls near the bar, packed with locals still donned ski pants. Ask the bartender about the selection of Austrian wines and try something you’ve never had before. Order off the bar menu,

Village Cafe vibes

Warren to pour you a greyhound sloshie made with freshly squeezed grapefruit juice. Only thing I’m not so sure about is Andy’s attempt to bring back the old classic “Trendy Bitch,” from the VC’s heyday: Red Bull, orange soda, Black Velvet and whiskey—I’ll leave that one for the eager youth to ingurgitate. Other friendly faces at the Bodega include former Rendezvous Bistro Executive Chef Joel Tate, who is now presiding over Fine Dining’s latest offerings: butchery and charcuterie. Tate mans the butcher shop Wednesday through Sunday and personally fixes up your house-made bratwurst sandwich. It’s incredibly delicious and really hits the spot after a big ski day. Perks of après-ing at Bodega: getting to take home Tate’s fabulous sausages. I highly recommend the bison mozzarella, jalapeño cheddar, beet and wild rice, the Reuben, and those little maple and sage breakfast links. Let’s face it—as much as we all miss that classic basement bar next to the tram, we never had food this good at the VC. PJH

| PLANET JACKSON HOLE |

Fondue. Kids of all ages love plunging skewers of apples and bread into melted cheese, and there’s plenty of room to spread out with a big group. Or pile the kids up in the designated playroom at the Spur in Teton Mountain Lodge. Take turns with your friends supervising their chill-out time on the cushions. While they nosh on nachos, you can sip on the famous (best in the valley?) Spur Bacon Bloody Mary and enjoy a plate of Mushroom Toast—roasted mushrooms piled onto toasted potato bread topped with melted cheese and truffle vinaigrette.


| PLANET JACKSON HOLE |

24 | FEBRUARY 24, 2016

BEER, WINE & SPIRITS

Sipping South Africa, Part 1 An introduction to the wines of Rainbow nation. BY TED SCHEFFLER @critic1

F

or the past couple of weeks, I’ve been on a wine mission. I’ve been tasting my way through some 20 different wines from South Africa. Yes, it’s a lonely job, but somebody has to do it. In the past, I’ve not exactly championed the South African wines I’ve tried, finding most to be mediocre, at best. Perhaps that’s why Wines of South Africa (WOSA)—a not-for-profit group based in Stellenbosch, South Africa, which represents and promotes South African wines to international markets—reached out to me. And so, I decided to once again turn my gaze to South Africa. I’m glad I did. Understanding some of the country’s winemaking history will help to understand the present-day wines. The first South African wines were vinified by Dutch colonists in the late 1650s who made wines from wild-growing native grapes. Those grapes, in tandem with Dutch farmers’ lack of winemaking skills, got South Africa’s wine industry off to a very rocky start. To put a not-so-fine point on it: The wines sucked.

IMBIBE

And so, a commander of the Dutch East India Co. named Jan van Riebeeck, stationed at South Africa’s southwestern tip (the Cape), sent a missive back to Holland requesting that a shipment of European vine cuttings be sent to him. French vine cuttings, most notably Chenin Blanc, were sent to Riebeeck and, within a decade, Chenin Blanc and Muscat vineyards were thriving on the Cape. Today, Chenin Blanc (also called Steen) is the most widely planted varietal in South Africa, accounting for nearly 25 percent of that country’s wine production. In all, some 40 different grape varietals are grown in South Africa, with most vineyards—or, “wine farms” as they’re called there—concentrated in the southwestern part of the country. As is true with our own country’s murky past, South Africa’s earliest wine production was based, in part, on slave labor. In 1658, the Dutch brought slaves from Mozambique and Madagascar by ship to work the vineyards. And until the Comprehensive Anti-Apartheid Act of 1986 imposing sanctions on South Africa was repealed in 1991—and apartheid itself ended i n 1994—most Americans had never tasted wine from South Africa. But by the end of the 1990s, bottles of South African wine were beginning to show up in wine stores in the United States. Flash forward to today, and you’ll discover that South Africa currently leads the entire world in sustainable and biodiverse

winemaking. Black-owned businesses are gaining traction in the South African wine industry as well. According to WOSA, in 2012, 65 percent of all fairtrade wines sold worldwide originated in South Africa. Although Chenin Blanc is South Africa’s most widely planted wine grape, much of it is used for making cheap brandy. That’s a shame, because South Africa produces worldclass Chenin Blanc—a floral, peachy wine that is sometimes compared to French Viognier and Alsatian Pinot Gris. Other common white wine varietals in South Africa include Colombard (called Colombar, there), Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Semillon, Riesling and Viognier—the last three mostly used for blending. When I think of South African red wine, I most often think of Pinotage. This is South Africa’s own grape variety—a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault, which makes rustic, mostly simple and inexpensive reds. Although Pinotage is synonymous with South Africa, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are the two widest-planted red-grape varietals. If there’s a South African wine you’re probably familiar with, it’s The Chocolate Block, a hugely popular, rich wine with chocolate-like flavors. PJH

Next week in Part 2, we’ll taste our way through a mess o’ South African wines.

SCOOP UP THESE SAVINGS

1/16TH COLOR AD Local is a modern American steakhouse and bar located on Jackson’s historic town square. Serving locally raised beef and, regional game, fresh seafood and seasonally inspired food, Local offers the perfect setting for lunch, drinks or dinner.

Lunch 11:30am Monday-Saturday Dinner 5:30pm Nightly

Trio is located just off the town square in downtown Jackson, and is owned & operated by local chefs with a passion for good food. Our menu features contemporary American dishes inspired by classic bistro cuisine. Daily specials feature wild game, fish and meats. Enjoy a glass of wine at the bar in front of the wood-burning oven and watch the chefs perform in the open kitchen.

Dinner Nightly at 5:30pm

HAPPY HOUR Daily 4-6:00pm

307.201.1717 | LOCALJH.COM ON THE TOWN SQUARE

45 S. Glenwood Available for private events & catering For reservations please call 734-8038

• FREE PRINT LISTING (50-75 WORDS) • FREE ONLINE LISTING ON PLANETJH.COM • 6 MONTH MINIMUM COMMITMENT • $25 A WEEK CASH OR $40 A WEEK TRADE ON HALF OFF JH

CONTACT YOUR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE TODAY TO LEARN MORE

SALES@PLANETJH.COM OR 307.732.0299


EARLY BIRD SPECIAL

20%OFF ENTIRE BILL

Good between 5:30-6pm • Open nightly at 5:30pm

733-3912 160 N. Millward

Make your reservation online at bluelionrestaurant.com

Featuring dining destinations from buffets and rooms with a view to mom and pop joints, chic cuisine and some of our dining critic’s faves!

ASIAN & CHINESE TETON THAI Serving the world’s most exciting cuisine. Teton Thai offers a splendid array of flavors: sweet, hot, sour, salt and bitter. All balanced and blended perfectly, satisfying the most discriminating palate. Open daily. 7432 Granite Loop Road in Teton Village, (307) 733-0022 and in Driggs, (208) 787-8424, tetonthai.com.

KIM’S CORNER

®

Large Specialty Pizza ADD: Wings (8 pc)

Medium Pizza (1 topping) Stuffed Cheesy Bread

$ 13 99

for an extra $5.99/each

(307) 733-0330 520 S. Hwy. 89 • Jackson, WY

Best ski food in the area! Korean and American style, from breakfast sandwiches, burgers, chicken tenders, Philly cheese steaks to rice bowls and noodles. Something for everyone! Open Tuesday through Thursday, 9:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Friday through Sunday, 9:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. At base of Snow King between the ski patrol room and the ice rink. 100 E. Snow King Ave. Order ahead (307) 200-6544, facebook. com/Kimscornercafe.

THAI ME UP Home of Melvin Brewing Co. Freshly remodeled offering modern Thai cuisine in a relaxed setting. New tap system with 20 craft beers. New $8 wine list and extensive bottled beer menu. Open daily for dinner at 5pm. Downtown at 75 East Pearl Street. View our tap list at thaijh.com/brews. 307-733-0005.

CONTINENTAL - Snow King Mountain -

Cafe

KOREAN & AMERICAN BREAKFAST & LUNCH BURGERS • FRIES RICE BOWLS • NOODLES (at Snow King Mtn between Ski Patrol & Ice Rink)

307.200.6544

Serving authentic Swiss cuisine, the Alpenhof features European style breakfast entrées and alpine lunch fare. Dine in the Bistro for a casual meal or join us in the Alpenrose dining room for a relaxed dinner experience. Breakfast 7:30am-10am. Coffee & pastry 10am-11:30am. Lunch 11:30am-3pm. Aprés 3pm-5:30pm. Dinner 6pm-9pm. For reservations at the Bistro or Alpenrose, call 307-733-3242.

THE BLUE LION A Jackson Hole favorite for 37 years. Join us in the charming atmosphere of a historic home. Ask a local about our rack of lamb. Serving fresh fish, elk, poultry, steaks, and vegetarian entrées. Live acoustic guitar music most nights. Open at 5:30 p.m. Off Season Special: 2 for 1 Entrees. Good all night. Must mention ad. Reservations recommended, walk-ins welcome. 160 N. Millward, (307) 7333912, bluelionrestaurant.com

CAFE GENEVIEVE

Reservations at (307) 733-4913 3295 Village Drive • Teton Village, WY

www.mangymoose.com

ELEANOR’S Enjoy all the perks of fine dining, minus the dress code at Eleanor’s, serving rich, saucy dishes in a warm and friendly setting. Eleanor’s is a primo brunch spot on Sunday afternoons.

FEBRUARY 24, 2016 | 25

Mangy Moose Restaurant, with locally sourced, seasonally FRESH FOOD at reasonable prices, is a always a FUN PLACE to go with family or friends for a unique dining experience. The personable staff will make you feel RIGHT AT HOME and the funky western decor will keep you entertained throughout your entire visit.

Serving inspired home cooked classics in a historic log cabin. Enjoy brunch daily at 8 a.m., dinner nightly at 5 p.m., and happy hour daily 3-5:30 p.m. featuring $5 glasses of wine, $5 specialty drinks, $3 bottled beer. 135 E. Broadway, (307) 732-1910, genevievejh.com.

| PLANET JACKSON HOLE |

Tues-Thur 9:30am-7pm | Fri-Sun 9:30am-4pm 100 E. Snow King Ave

ALPENHOF


| PLANET JACKSON HOLE |

26 | FEBRUARY 24, 2016

Its bar alone is an attraction, thanks to reasonably priced drinks and a loyal crowd. Come get a bellyfull of our two-time gold medal wings. Open at 11 a.m. daily. 832 W. Broadway, (307) 733-7901.

FULL STEAM SUBS The deli that’ll rock your belly. Jackson’s newest sub shop serves steamed subs, reubens, gyros, delicious all beef hot dogs, soups and salads. We offer Chicago style hot dogs done just the way they do in the windy city. Open daily11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Located just a short block north of the Town Square at 180 N. Center Street, (307) 733-3448.

LOCAL

POLKA NIGHT FEATURING THE

HOF POLKA BAND THURSDAY, 7PM-10PM GERMAN BEER SPECIALS

Steamed Subs Hot Dogs Soups & Salads

The Deli That’ll Rock Your Belly 307-733-3448

307.733.3242 | TETON VILLAGE

Sun-Wed 11am-4pm, Thur-Sat 11am-8pm 180 N. Center St. | 1 block n. of Town Square Next to Home Ranch Parking Lot

Local, a modern American steakhouse and bar, is located on Jackson’s historic town square. Our menu features both classic and specialty cuts of locally-ranched meats and wild game alongside fresh seafood, shellfish, house-ground burgers, and seasonally-inspired food. We offer an extensive wine list and an abundance of locally-sourced products. Offering a casual and vibrant bar atmosphere with 12 beers on tap as well as a relaxed dining room, Local is the perfect spot to grab a burger for lunch or to have drinks and dinner with friends. Lunch Mon-Sat 11:30am. Dinner Nightly 5:30pm. 55 North Cache, (307) 201-1717, localjh.com.

LOTUS CAFE Serving organic, freshly-made world cuisine while catering to all eating styles. Endless organic and natural meat, vegetarian, vegan and glutenfree choices. Offering super smoothies, fresh extracted juices, espresso and tea. Full bar and house-infused botanical spirits. Open daily 8am for breakfast lunch and dinner. 145 N. Glenwood St., (307) 734-0882, tetonlotuscafe.com.

MANGY MOOSE FAMILY FRIENDLY ENVIRONMENT

Breakfast Lunch & Dinner

PIZZAS, PASTAS & MORE HOUSEMADE BREAD & DESSERTS

••••••••• Open daily 8am 145 N. Glenwood (307) 734-0882

FRESH, LOCALLY SOURCED OFFERINGS

WWW.TETONLOTUSCAFE.COM

A Jackson Hole favorite since 1965

TAKE OUT AVAILABLE Dining room and bar open nightly at 5:00pm (307) 733-2460 • 2560 Moose Wilson Road • Wilson, WY

THE LOCALS

FAVORITE PIZZA 2012, 2013 & 2014 •••••••••

$7

$4 Well Drink Specials

LUNCH

SPECIAL Slice, salad & soda

•••••••••••••••••••••••••••

TV Sports Packages and 7 Screens

Under the Pink Garter Theatre (307) 734-PINK • www.pinkygs.com

Mangy Moose Restaurant, with locally sourced, seasonally fresh food at reasonable prices, is a always a fun place to go with family or friends for a unique dining experience. The personable staff will make you feel right at home and the funky western decor will keep you entertained throughout your entire visit. Teton Village, (307) 733-4913, mangymoose.com.

SNAKE RIVER BREWERY & RESTAURANT America’s most award-winning microbrewery is serving lunch and dinner. Take in the atmosphere while enjoying wood-fired pizzas, pastas, burgers, sandwiches, soups, salads and desserts. $9 lunch menu. Happy hour 4 to 6 p.m., including tasty hot wings. The freshest beer in the valley, right from the source! Free WiFi. Open 11:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. 265 S. Millward. (307) 739-2337, snakeriverbrewing.com.

SWEETWATER Use the code “Planet” and get

15% off your order of $20 or more Order online at PizzeriaCaldera.com or via our app for iOS or Android.

11am - 9:30pm daily 20 W Broadway 307 - 201 - 1472

Satisfying locals for lunch and dinner for over 36 years with deliciously affordable comfort food. Extensive local and regional beer list. Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. features blackened trout salad, elk melt, wild west chili and vegetarian specialties. Dinner 5:30 to 9 p.m. including potato-crusted trout, 16 ounce ribeye, vegan and wild game. Reservations welcome. (307) 7333553. sweetwaterjackson.com.

TRIO Owned and operated by Chefs with a passion for good food, Trio is located right off the Town

square in downtown Jackson. Featuring a variety of cuisines in a relaxed atmosphere, Trio is famous for its wood-oven pizzas, specialty cocktails and waffle fries with bleu cheese fondue. Dinner nightly at 5:30 p.m. Reservations. (307) 734-8038 or bistrotrio.com.

ITALIAN CALICO A Jackson Hole favorite since 1965, the Calico continues to be one of the most popular restaurants in the Valley. The Calico offers the right combination of really good food, (much of which is grown in our own gardens in the summer), friendly staff; a reasonably priced menu and a large selection of wine. Our bar scene is eclectic with a welcoming vibe. Open nightly at 5 p.m. 2560 Moose Wilson Rd., (307) 733-2460.

MEXICAN EL ABUELITO Serving authentic Mexican cuisine and appetizers in a unique Mexican atmosphere. Home of the original Jumbo Margarita. Featuring a full bar with a large selection of authentic Mexican beers. Lunch served weekdays 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Nightly dinner specials. Open seven days, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. 385 W. Broadway, (307) 733-1207.

PIZZA DOMINO’S PIZZA Hot and delicious delivered to your door. Handtossed, deep dish, crunchy thin, Brooklyn style and artisan pizzas; bread bowl pastas, and oven baked sandwiches; chicken wings, cheesy breads and desserts. Delivery. 520 S. Hwy. 89 in Kmart Plaza, (307) 733-0330.

PINKY G’S The locals favorite! Voted Best Pizza in Jackson Hole 2012, 2013 and 2014. Seek out this hidden gem under the Pink Garter Theatre for NY pizza by the slice, salads, stromboli’s, calzones and many appetizers to choose from. Try the $7 ‘Triple S’ lunch special.Happy hours 10 p.m. - 12 a.m. Sun.- Thu. Text PINK to 71441 for discounts. Delivery and take-out. Open daily 11a.m. to 2 a.m. 50 W. Broadway, (307) 734-PINK.

PIZZERIA CALDERA Jackson Hole’s only dedicated stone-hearth oven pizzeria, serving Napolitana-style pies using the freshest ingredients in traditional and creative combinations. Five local micro-brews on tap, a great selection of red and white wines by the glass and bottle, and one of the best views of the Town Square from our upstairs deck. Daily lunch special includes slice, salad or soup, any two for $8. Happy hour: half off drinks by the glass from 4 - 6 daily. Dine in or carry out. Or order online at PizzeriaCaldera.com, or download our app for iOS or Android. Open from 11am - 9:30pm daily at 20 West Broadway. 307-201-1472.


SUDOKU

S A L E S ASSO

Complete the grid so that each row, column, diagonal and 3x3 square contain all of the numbers 1 to 9. No math is involved. The grid has numbers, but nothing has to add up to anything else. Solve the puzzle with reasoning and logic. Solving time is typically 10 to 30 minutes, depending on your skill and experience.

CIATE

POSITION

ARE YOU MOTIVATED, HAVE A SENSE OF HUMOR AND DO WHAT IT TAKES TO GET IT DONE? Planet Jackson Hole is currently looking for an Advertising Associate who can help us stay in touch with some of our awesome advertisers as well as be our on-the-streets super star for Planet JH. The ideal person will be outgoing, hard-working, a team player and must have some experience. PLEASE SEND YOUR RESUME AND A BRIEF EXPLANATION OF WHY YOU THINK YOU’RE THE ONE TO: JEN@PLANETJH.COM

L.A.TIMES “PUTTING IN OVERTIME” By Jeffrey Wechsler

SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2016

ACROSS

75 Secretary of Education Duncan 76 Shaft access 77 Flattering 79 Meir’s successor 81 Go on and on, with “on” 82 Maker of Veriton computers 84 “How could I not see that?!” 85 Assistant to millions 86 Some factory workers 87 Noodle variety 88 Child-friendly? 92 Poppycock 93 Steaming 95 European travel guide author Rick __ 96 Geek Squad pros 98 First named Atlantic storm in 10 different years to date 100 Johann : “Sehr gut” :: Jacques : “__ bien” 101 Compel to accept, as ideas 105 Up to, on invites 106 Queen’s body double? 109 Words with a certain ring 110 Dish name from the Tamil for “sauce” 111 Stymies 112 Danny __, Shel Silverstein’s “dancin’ bear” 113 Crookshanks, in Harry Potter fiction 114 Moves it 115 Animal rights issue 116 Utterly enchant 10 Pilates class array 20 Zwei quadrupled 30 First Nations tribe 40 Makes it easier 50 Hope venues for 50 yrs. 60 Ancient Chinese sage 70 Latin dating word 80 It merged with WorldCom in 1998

diamond highlights 68 Red Sox legend Williams 69 One-named Milanese model 70 Calendar abbr. 71 Holiday __ 76 Wall St. hedger 78 Script fixers, for short 79 Gets out of Dodge 80 Applied __ 81 Get it finished 82 Like some lions 83 Contest with picadors 85 Cut 86 “CBS Sunday Morning” correspondent Mo 89 Absorbent cloth 90 Micronesia components 91 Periods in sentences 94 Father of Methuselah 97 Blue shoe material of song 99 Needle holder 101 Pretty, maidenwise 102 Antismoking TV spots, e.g. 103 Alberto’s alternative, with “el” 104 Omsk objection 107 Charlemagne’s realm: Abbr. 108 “As __ Like It”

FEBRUARY 24, 2016 | 27

DOWN

90 Retirement plans 10 Classic delivery vehicle 11 Space bar neighbor 12 Beth preceder 13 TV Land fare 14 Pirate treasure at your neighbor’s house 15 Defunct self-serve eatery 16 Just say no 18 Like Pluto, once 19 Exodus high point 22 Attention-getters on the road 23 Attention-getters at a bar 28 Relax 30 Antarctic sight 31 Outback fare 33 Kitchen remodeling selection 34 ’60s-’70s TV detective 35 Did away with voting? 37 Fact-checking can help avoid it 38 Haute couture initials 41 Gives a thumbs-up 46 Brewery container 47 Harry’s successor 48 Status __ 49 Wishful words 51 Flimflam 52 Possum pal of Porky Pine 54 Gradually made a member of 55 “Just checking the alarm, folks” 57 Nincompoop 58 Squander 59 “Toy Story” dinosaur 62 Work on a tree, maybe 64 Blackjack need 66 Gulf Coast environs 67 Nearly flawless

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10 __ Picchu 60 Library fixture 10 Early name in late TV 14 Bit 17 They help define a lot 18 “Eraserhead” star Jack 19 __ à manger: dining room 20 Pink, for example 21 Cold weather moisturizer? 24 “More of the same” letters 25 Boards 26 Trig function 27 Real Madrid’s game 29 Bar offerings 30 Campus challenges 32 Judd of country music 33 Freed (of) 36 Moor’s money pool? 39 Zen paradox 40 Features of some traffic signals 42 Charged atoms 43 Hi-__ image 44 Mini- analog 45 Sheltered spots 46 Lionel Hampton’s instrument 48 Fulfill the requirements 50 Econ. statistics 51 Target of icing 52 Target of icing 53 Linguistic source of “pajamas” 56 Ability scorned by many 57 Best Western fishing amenities? 60 Unhidden 61 Affixed, in a way 63 Voyage segment 64 Top spots 65 Not as expected 66 Business where lines are discouraged? 72 Defunct carrier 73 Seller of chew toys 74 From scratch


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28 | FEBRUARY 24, 2016

What’s in a Greeting? Exploring ‘The light in me sees the light in you,’ and the meaning of other salutations.

T

he every day greetings in many languages and cultures are loaded with profound spiritual meanings and universal truths. Here’s a sample of the deeper wisdom underlying regularly shared daily greetings here and abroad.

Hello Beginning with our hello. It turns out that “hello” is a contraction of the old English greeting “whole be thou.” The original greeting conveys two important messages. On the one hand is the wish that the other person be whole in body, mind and spirit. On another level, “whole be thou” acknowledges a spiritual truth. It reminds us that the other person, and every person, is already whole.

Namaste With so many Westerners practicing yoga, the traditional Hindu greeting “namaste” has found its way into our everyday vocabulary. It is casually used for hello or goodbye. Traditionally it is said with palms together, hands at the heart and the head slightly bowed. This body language alone speaks volumes… a heartfelt greeting deeply honoring the sacred essence of the other person. The hand gesture often continues to honor the divinity of the other person by bringing the fingers of the clasped hands to the middle of the forehead, the seat of spiritual sight, and above the head to the greater cosmos. All the many translations for the word “namaste” convey the awareness that the other person is a sacred being. One translation is “I bow to you;” another is, “The light in me sees the light in you.” And a third version is, “The light that I am sees the light that you are.”

In Lak’ech This is a Mayan greeting and way of life. Like the others mentioned, this can be used as a simple hello or goodbye, while its full meaning is profound. In Lak’ech means, “I am you, and you are me.” The greeting can be expressed to another person(s), and

equally to greet/honor the sun, the trees, the animals, birds, the stars and all of creation. This speaks directly to the now scientifically proven fact that we are all interconnected and part of the one living, unified matrix of life. As a moral code, In Lak’ech teaches that since we are all interconnected, the quality of every person’s thoughts and actions affect the whole, both in this physical world and in more subtle realities. We are the beneficiaries of every person’s kindnesses. And conversely, we are the recipients of any less than noble energies as well.

Aloha As you know in everyday conversation “Aloha” is used to say hello, goodbye and love. The deeper meaning refers to the mutual and joyful experiencing of each other’s spirit (soul) and the spirit of all life. Even saying the word “aloha” has a happy lilt. One Hawaiian teacher’s summary of aloha is: “Come forward in the present moment, be in unity and harmony with your real self, with the Earth and with mankind. Be honest, humble, truthful, patient and kind to all life forms.” Aloha means you are part of the all and the all is part of you. Therefore when you live the gentleness of the Spirit of Aloha, you are naturally honoring life and contributing to a network of positive feelings and thoughts, which expand and radiate to everyone and everything.

In the movies “Star Wars,” “Star Trek” and “Avatar” are some of the movies making use of the tradition to imbue greetings with deeper universal truths. For example, if you saw the movie “Avatar,” you may recall how the people greeted each other in that film. They would look deep into each other’s eyes and say, “I see you.” This was about gazing beyond the surface and acknowledging the pure essence of the other person.

Bottom line spiritual wisdom All of these greetings and others from around the world, invite us to pause and remember what’s true before further interaction with other people, and before acting in the world. We are all part of one sacred, interconnected, intelligent, living matrix. Living from the truth of this underlying unity allows thinking and acting from fear and separation to fall away and become obsolete. The entire matrix thrives and evolves in the presence of humanity’s collective thoughts and actions when they are based in mutual honoring, loving kindness, and compassion. This is also the power behind, the meaning of, and the responsibility to become awakened stewards of the Earth. PJH

Carol Mann is a longtime Jackson resident, radio personality, former Grand Targhee Resort owner, author, and clairvoyant. Got a Cosmic Question? Email carol@yourcosmiccafe.com

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FREE WILL ASTROLOGY

BY ROB BREZSNY

ARIES (March 21-April 19) Just one species has a big enough throat to swallow a person whole: the sperm whale. If you happen to be sailing the high seas any time soon, I hope you will studiously avoid getting thrown overboard in the vicinity of one of these beasts. The odds are higher than usual that you’d end up in its belly, much like the Biblical character Jonah. (Although, like him, I bet you’d ultimately escape.) Furthermore, Aries, I hope you will be cautious not to get swallowed up by anything else. It’s true that the coming weeks will be a good time to go on a retreat, to flee from the grind and take a break from the usual frenzy. But the best way to do that is to consciously choose the right circumstances rather than leave it to chance. TAURUS (April 20-May 20) You have cosmic clearance to fantasize about participating in orgies where you’re loose and free and exuberant. It’s probably not a good idea to attend a literal orgy, however. For the foreseeable future, all the cleansing revelry and cathartic rapture you need can be obtained through the wild stories and outrageous scenes that unfold in your imagination. Giving yourself the gift of pretend immersions in fertile chaos could recharge your spiritual batteries in just the right ways.

SCORPIO (Oct. 23-Nov. 21) Your Mythic Metaphor for the coming weeks is dew. Many cultures have regarded it as a symbol of life-giving grace. In Kabbalah, divine dew seeps from the Tree of Life. In Chinese folklore, the lunar dew purifies vision and nurtures longevity. In the lore of ancient Greece, dew confers fertility. The Iroquois speak of the Great Dew Eagle, who drops healing moisture on land ravaged by evil spirits. The creator god of the Ashanti people created dew soon after making the sun, moon and stars. Lao-Tse said it’s an emblem of the harmonious marriage between Earth and Heaven. So what will you do with the magic dew you’ll be blessed with?

GEMINI (May 21-June 20) “Hell is the suffering of being unable to love,” wrote novelist J.D. Salinger. If that’s true, I’m pleased to announce that you can now ensure you’ll be free of hell for a very long time. The cosmic omens suggest that you have enormous power to expand your capacity for love. So, get busy! Make it your intention to dissolve any unconscious blocks you might have about sharing your gifts and bestowing your blessings. Get rid of attitudes and behaviors that limit your generosity and compassion. Now is an excellent time to launch your “Perpetual Freedom from Hell” campaign!

SAGITTARIUS (Nov. 22-Dec. 21) It’s prime time for you to love your memory, make vivid use of your memory and enhance your memory. Here are some hints about how: 1. Feel appreciation for the way the old stories of your life form the core of your identity and self-image. 2. Draw on your recollections of the past to guide you in making decisions about the imminent future. 3. Notice everything you see with an intensified focus, because then you will remember it better, and that will come in handy quite soon. 4. Make up new memories that you wish had happened. Have fun creating scenes from an imagined past.

CANCER (June 21-July 22) “A vacation is what you take when you can no longer take what you’ve been taking,” journalist Earl Wilson said. Do you fit that description, Cancerian? Probably. I suspect it’s high time to find a polite way to flee your responsibilities, avoid your duties, and hide from your burdens. For the foreseeable future, you have a mandate to ignore what fills you with boredom. You have the right to avoid any involvement that makes life too damn complicated. And you have a holy obligation to rethink your relationship with any influence that weighs you down with menial obligations.

CAPRICORN (Dec. 22-Jan. 19) Most of us know about Albert Einstein’s greatest idea: the general theory of relativity. It was one of the reasons he won a Nobel Prize in Physics. But what was his second-best discovery? Here’s what he said it was: adding an egg to the pot while he cooked his soup. That way, he could produce a soft-boiled egg without having to dirty a second pot. What are the first- and second-most fabulous ideas you’ve ever come up with, Capricorn? I suspect you are on the verge of producing new candidates to compete with them. If it’s OK with you, I will, at least temporarily, refer to you as a genius.

LEO (July 23-Aug. 22) “Your illusions are a part of you like your bones and flesh and memory,” writes William Faulkner in his novel Absalom, Absalom! If that’s true, Leo, you now have a chance to be a miracle worker. In the coming weeks, you can summon the uncanny power to rip at least two of your illusions out by the roots—without causing any permanent damage. You may temporarily feel a stinging sensation, but that will be a sign that healing is underway. Congratulations in advance for getting rid of the dead weight.

AQUARIUS (Jan. 20-Feb. 18) You may be familiar with the iconic children’s book Where the Wild Things Are. It’s about a boy named Max who takes a dream-like journey from his bedroom to an exotic island, where he becomes king of the weird beasts who live there. Author Maurice Sendak’s original title for the tale was “Where the Wild Horses Are.” But when his editor realized how inept Sendak was at drawing horses, she instructed him to come up with a title to match the kinds of creatures he could draw skillfully. That was a good idea. The book has sold over 19 million copies. I think you may need to deal with a comparable issue, Aquarius. It’s wise to acknowledge one of your limitations, and then capitalize on the adjustments you’ve got to make.

VIRGO (Aug. 23-Sept. 22) “We are defined by the lines we choose to cross or to be confined by,” says Virgo writer A.S. Byatt. That’s a key meditation for you as you enter a phase in which boundaries will be a major theme. During the next eight weeks, you will be continuously challenged to decide which people and things and ideas you want to be part of your world, and which you don’t. In some cases you’ll be wise to put up barriers and limit connection. In other cases, you’ll thrive by erasing borders and transcending divisions. The hard part—and the fun part—will be knowing which is which. Trust your gut. LIBRA (Sept. 23-Oct. 22) When life gives you lemon juice from concentrate, cit-

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ric acid, high-fructose corn syrup, modified cornstarch, potassium citrate, yellow food dye and gum acacia, what should you do? Make lemonade, of course! You might wish that all the raw ingredients life sends your way would be pure and authentic, but sometimes the mix includes artificial stuff. No worries, Libra! I am confident that you have the imaginative chutzpah and resilient willpower necessary to turn the mishmash into passable nourishment. Or here’s another alternative: You could procrastinate for two weeks, when more of the available resources will be natural.

PISCES (Feb. 19-March 20) “People don’t want their lives fixed,” proclaims Chuck Palahniuk in his novel Survivor. “Nobody wants their problems solved. Their dramas. Their distractions. Their stories resolved. Their messes cleaned up. Because what would they have left? Just the big scary unknown.” Your challenge in the coming weeks, Pisces, is to prove Palahniuk wrong, at least in regards to you. From what I can tell, you will have unprecedented opportunities to solve dilemmas and clean up messy situations. And if you take even partial advantage of this gift, you will not be plunged into the big scary unknown, but rather into a new phase of shaping your identity with crispness and clarity.

Go to RealAstrology.com for Rob Brezsny’s expanded weekly audio horoscopes and daily text-message horoscopes. Audio horoscopes also available by phone at 877-873-4888 or 900-950-7700.


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