River Danube - Tourist Organisation of Belgrade 2010 by CorD Magazine

2010

GUIDE

n Tourist Organisation of Belgrade n Belgrade Convention Bureau

CONTENTS

River Danube Belgrade Crossroad

guide

EDITOR Ljuba Đorđević ASSISTENT EDITOR Philomena O’Brien Vesna Aleksić ART DIRECTOR Tamara Ivljanin t.ivljanin@cma.rs ART DIRECTOR’S ASSISTANT Ilija Petrović i.petrovic@aim.rs EDITORIAL MANAGER Tamara Čanković EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS Ana Stojanović, Petar Taušanović PHOTO Turistička Organizacija Beograd GENERAL MANAGER Ivan Novčić i.novcic@cma.rs FINANCIAL DIRECTOR Ana Besedić a.besedic@cma.rs OFFICE MANAGER Tanja Banković, t.bankovic@cma.rs

Down the Danube and to the Future by JASNA DIMITRIJEVIĆ, Director of the Tourist Organization of Belgrade

Zemun - Where Time Stands Still

ŽELJKO OŽEGOVIĆ, Belgrade City, Council Member - THE GATE TO EUROPE

WELCOME TO BELGRADE - The Irresistible Charm of a Balkan Metropolis

BELGRADE – A CONFERENCE CITY - A Slow Return to Old Glory

THE MONUMENTS - AT THE CROSSROADS OF HISTORY

Daniela Schily, GTZ Project Director, Regional Project on development Danube Competence Center - Positive energy

PRINTING Rotografika d.o.o. Segedinski put 72, Subotica RIVER DANUBE BELGRADE CROSSROAD PUBLISHER: Turist Organization of Belgrade PUBLISHED BY: alliance international media Kneginje Zorke 11b, 11000 Belgrade, Serbia Phone: +(381 11) 308 99 77, 308 99 88 Fascimile: +(381 11) 244 81 27 office@allianceinternationalmedia.com www.allianceinternationalmedia.com ISSN no: 1451-7833 All rights reserved alliance international media

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The best view of the Danube River and across the Pannonian Plain is from Gardos in

BELA STENA (WHITE ROCK)Robinson Crusoe on Belgrade’s Outskirts

32 36 40

MARINAS ON THE DANUBE AND SAVA - Travelling in Style SPORT AND RECREATION IN BELGRADE – Everything for Everybody

Žaklina Gligorijević, Director of the Belgrade Urban Planning Institute - The Diversity of Belgrade

Down the Danube and to the Future

SPENDING THE NIGHT ON THE DANUBE - RAFT CLUBS, RESTAURANTS, DISCO CLUBS... Hot Rhythms from Dusk to Dawn CRUISING DOWN THE RIVER DANUBE - A Unique Nauti cal Experience

FISHING ON THE DANUBE - An Angler’s Paradise

JASNA DIMITRIJEVIĆ, Director of the Tourist Organization of Belgrade

elgrade is a city that lies on two rivers – the Danube and the Sava – which are pride and joy of every Belgrade citizen. The Danube links over 80 million people who live in nine different countries, speak over 10 different languages, belong to different religions, and nurture their history, art, culture, customs and legends. Prehistoric settlements, Roman and medieval fortresses, monasteries and churches all combine with the modern skyline of Belgrade on the banks of the Danube River. Physical evidence provides proof of an ancient people who lived near the Danube, whilst many projects that are currently being carried out on the river banks give us a glimpse into the future - a vision of what Belgrade will look like in years to come. This publication is dedicated to the Danube in Belgrade - all the projects and advantages that a city located on rivers can offer; the numerous attractions,

cultural celebrations and other events; and Belgrade’s future potential presented as never before. Through the pages of this edition, it is our intention to acquaint readers with Belgrade’s potential in regards to the Danube River and also to inform them of current activities, plans and future projects. This is one of the initial contributions to the further development of a great regional ‘Danube family’ comprising of the European cities that will help turn the dreams of the Danube in Belgrade and Serbia into reality. This is a new inspiration and a new business potential which heralds new times. The future European strategy for the Danube, which is also a macro-regional European strategy, provides a great opportunity for our country. Perhaps this publication will contribute to a more comprehensive view of the Danube’s potential in Belgrade.

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CONTENTS

River Danube Belgrade Crossroad

guide

Down the Danube and to the Future by JASNA DIMITRIJEVIĆ, Director of the Tourist Organization of Belgrade

Zemun - Where Time Stands Still

ŽELJKO OŽEGOVIĆ, Belgrade City, Council Member - THE GATE TO EUROPE

WELCOME TO BELGRADE - The Irresistible Charm of a Balkan Metropolis

BELGRADE – A CONFERENCE CITY - A Slow Return to Old Glory

THE MONUMENTS - AT THE CROSSROADS OF HISTORY

Daniela Schily, GTZ Project Director, Regional Project on development Danube Competence Center - Positive energy

4 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

The best view of the Danube River and across the Pannonian Plain is from Gardos in

BELA STENA (WHITE ROCK)Robinson Crusoe on Belgrade’s Outskirts

32 36 40

MARINAS ON THE DANUBE AND SAVA - Travelling in Style SPORT AND RECREATION IN BELGRADE – Everything for Everybody

Žaklina Gligorijević, Director of the Belgrade Urban Planning Institute - The Diversity of Belgrade

Down the Danube and to the Future

SPENDING THE NIGHT ON THE DANUBE - RAFT CLUBS, RESTAURANTS, DISCO CLUBS... Hot Rhythms from Dusk to Dawn CRUISING DOWN THE RIVER DANUBE - A Unique Nauti cal Experience

FISHING ON THE DANUBE - An Angler’s Paradise

JASNA DIMITRIJEVIĆ, Director of the Tourist Organization of Belgrade

2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 5

WELCOME TO BELGRADE Discover what ‘the city on two rivers’ offers to visitors

The Irresistible Charm of a Balkan Metropolis The Serbian capital city is the ultimate entertainment destination - here you will never be bored

elgrade might not be the most beautiful city in the world, but it is certainly a city where you simply cannot be bored. Throughout the day, from early morning to late evening, Belgrade’s visitors can always find something to amuse themselves. In the streets, restaurants, at a concert or in a theatre, both in the city and on the river, you are bound to enjoy new experiences and learn new things. You will meet interesting and interested people who will make sure that your stay is relaxed and pleasant. You will feel like you’ve met with your old childhood friends. Belgrade does not try to hide its real face from its visitors. This is a city that does not conceal its rich and tempestuous past, and its historic heritage. The city is proud to be called a

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charming Balkan metropolis. Even if you spend only a brief time in Belgrade, you will quickly realize that this is not a city that is ‘faking it’, trying to be something that it is not. Belgrade always shows its true face. You will meet people who live life to the fullest, and who do not put on a show for tourists. You are going to see Belgrade’s deep soul, great heart and wonderful hospitality. When you come to Belgrade, you might feel that you’ve been here many times before. People are more open than in other cities, they are in high spirits everywhere you go, and this gives Belgrade the feeling of being a magical city. Belgrade’s charm is simply irresistible. Many travellers in the past have been quick to notice how delightful and hospitable

Belgrade’s citizens were, and this remains true to this day. The city’s candour and readiness to accept anyone who comes here will remain the focal point of the Belgrade tourist experience. Anyone visiting Belgrade shouldn’t stay in just one place its many restaurants, café-bars, rafts, and the effervescent Knez Mihailova and Strahinjića Bana streets will entice you to have a great time and enjoy. Everything is better when accompanied by Serbian music, cuisine and šljivovica, Serbian plum brandy (which you can order in the famous Rakia Bar). You should definitely have a night out at one of the famous Belgrade raft clubs which have become an icon of the city. This is where the craziest of parties takes place. If you haven’t felt the heated atmosphere of the Belgrade raft clubs, this is

one more reason to come to the Serbian capital city. Belgrade is located on two great rivers – the Danube and the Sava – surrounded by fertile land, at the natural intersection of water and land routes. Belgrade has always posed a challenge for the nations that roamed these areas. Throughout its history, the city has been targeted by many conquerors. It has been destroyed and restored close to fifty times, and consequently contains a large amount of evidence of the past. The first settlements in what is today’s Belgrade date back to 4,000 B.C. The old Belgrade fortress is well preserved and here you can find authentic traces of each of its conquerors. Also, there is the beautifully designed Kalemegdan Park, several

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WELCOME TO BELGRADE Discover what ‘the city on two rivers’ offers to visitors

The Irresistible Charm of a Balkan Metropolis The Serbian capital city is the ultimate entertainment destination - here you will never be bored

6 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 7

FACTS & FIGURES

- The Belgrade district is made of two separate natural areas – the Pannonian Plains in the north and Šumadija in the

south. The average altitude is 117 metres, and the mountains of Kosmaj (628 metres) and Avala (511 metres) are nearby. - The total length of Belgrade’s river banks is 200 kilometres and there are 16 river islands with Ada Ciganlija and Great War Island being the biggest. - Belgrade’s climate is moderately continental, with four distinct seasons. The average annual temperature is 11.7 degrees. - The winds blowing in Belgrade are the south-east and eastern winds such as the Košava

ancient gates at the fortress, a clock tower, the old Roman well, Ružica Church, a Baroque gate, the mediaeval Nebojša Tower and a monument called ’Victor’ (Pobednik) which has been built recently. There is a wonderful view from Belgrade Fortress of the place where the Sava joins the Danube and this location is considered ‘an oasis of peace’ where Belgrade citizens relax, ride bicycles or enjoy wining and dining at one of the many raft restaurants. This green stretch is also home to the Contemporary Arts Museum and Friendship Park which was opened in 1961 in honour of the first conference of the Non-Aligned Movement. Following the conference, every foreign state of-

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which brings dry and sunny weather. The Košava wind usually blows during the autumn and winter months, in two to three day intervals and its speed ranges from 25 to 43 kilometres per hour. - There is precipitation 137 days a year on average in Belgrade, with 27 days of snow fall. The heaviest rainfall is in May and June, and the lightest in February. - The average atmospheric pressure in Belgrade is 1,001mb, and the average relative humidity is 69.5%.

ficial planted a tree. The last people to plant a tree were the members of The Rolling Stones in 2007. A contemporary building that houses the Ušće business centre was built in 1965 and was one of outstanding political symbols of the former state. Recently, the building was turned into the biggest shopping mall in the Balkans. In terms of places of worship, there is Saint Sava’s Temple which is the biggest Eastern Orthodox Church and can hold up to 12,000 people. Both the fortress and the temple are connected by a collection of streets and squares which make up the city’s centre, namely the pedestrian zone of Knez Mihailova Street, Republic

Square with the National Theatre and National Museum, Terazije Plateau and Srpskih Vladara Street, a dynamic place to do business, trade and live. If you want to relax and play sports, there is Ada Ciganlija, one of Belgrade’s favourite hideaways. This is an urban peninsula with a man-made lake and a wonderful natural oasis situated only four kilometres from downtown Belgrade. It is also an ideal place for long walks and sporting activities, and, in summer, it is affectionately called the ‘Belgrade Sea’ because of the many people visiting its beaches. When in Belgrade, be sure to visit Zemun. Located near the western approach to Belgrade, on the banks of the Danube River, Zemun dates back to the Neolithic period. Its history as a town actually started in 1717 when it was ruled by the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Zemun was a border town, located between Turkey and Austria. The oldest building in Zemun is the fortress, which is mentioned back in the ninth and eleventh centuries. In the middle of the fortress is Millennium Tower, raised by Hungarian rulers in 1896. The view from here is quite spectacular – you can see the Danube, the Pannonian Plains and the entirety of Belgrade. The old part of Zemun brings back memories of good, old, and charming times. Near Zemun, is Great War Island, with Lido beach at its very tip. Today, Belgrade is a dynamic city with abundant cultural and recreational activities on offer. It has 50 museums, 25 art galleries, 20 or so theatres, dozens of libraries, several international theatres, film, jazz, children and music festivals, many state- and privately-owned universities, and over 900 sporting facilities, parks and hideaways. n

If you want to relax or play sports, pay a visit to Ada Ciganlija, one of Belgrade’s favourite hideaways situated only four kilometres from downtown

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FACTS & FIGURES

- The Belgrade district is made of two separate natural areas – the Pannonian Plains in the north and Šumadija in the

8 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

If you want to relax or play sports, pay a visit to Ada Ciganlija, one of Belgrade’s favourite hideaways situated only four kilometres from downtown

2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 9

DID YOU KNOW · The Danube is the longest river in the European Union and

The King

of all Rivers MYTHS AND LEGENDS

the second longest in Europe, after the Volga.

· The river originates in the Black Forest in Germany from the much smaller Brigach and Breg rivers, which meet at the German town of Donaueschingen. · The Danube is 2,850 kilometres long; it runs through several central European capital cities, before it free-flows all the way into the Black Sea via its delta in Romania and the Ukraine. · The Danube was one of the long-standing borders of the Roman Empire. · The Danube runs through ten countries – Germany, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, Romania, Bulgaria, Moldavia and Ukraine. · Belgrade is situated at the point of 1,170 kilometres of the Danube’s entire length, and at 0 kilometres (i.e. the very beginning) of the River Sava. · The river is navigable from March 1st to December 25th.

During the winter months, providing there is no ice, it is possible to navigate down the Danube, but it is not cost effective due to shorter days and low water levels. · The number of foreign tourists coming to Belgrade by river is growing day by day. So too is the number of European companies that organize cruises on the Danube all the way to Belgrade. · The Port of Belgrade, located on the river, is an important transport, loading, unloading and cargo centre in Central Europe and is situated on the intersection of the two panEuropean transport corridors (VII and X). On the Sava River the Port of Belgrade owns a passenger dock with additional facilities. n

Belgrade is situated at the point of 1,170 kilometres of the Danube’s entire length

Tacitus says the Danube originates from the gentle hills of the Abnoba Mountains, runs through many countries, and finally its six branches join the Black Sea, whilst the seventh one disappears somewhere in swamps. The Abnoba is actually the Black Forest. When asked about the precise location of the Danube’s beginning, geography experts have never seen eye to eye and this remains true to this day. In Donaueschingen, the Danube doesn’t run independently, but rather joins the Brigach River, via an underground channel. According to Herodotus a section of the Danube River, from its origin to the Timok, was called Δανουβιος (Danouvios), while its upper section was called Ιστρος (Istros). Danouvios actually means ‘divine river’ or the ‘river of Zeus’, or the ‘king of all rivers’. The word Istros means ‘nurturing river’. The Danube is a personification of the god Dios or Zeus in its upper section (particularly in the Central Trans-Danubia), while the Istros is a personification of Goddess Hestia, who was the oldest daughter of Cronus and Rhea.

10 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

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DID YOU KNOW · The Danube is the longest river in the European Union and

The King

of all Rivers MYTHS AND LEGENDS

the second longest in Europe, after the Volga.

Belgrade is situated at the point of 1,170 kilometres of the Danube’s entire length

10 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 11

BELGRADE – A CONFERENCE CITY Congress tourism has significant economic potential for Belgrade

A Slow Return to Old Glory Serbia and Belgrade are wanting to revisit the glory days of conferencing, with the aim of again being a significant destination on the map of international conference events

THE CONGRESS BUREAU The fact that congress tourism is being recognised as a serious segment of the economy has been reflected in the recent foundation of the Congress Bureau of Belgrade. This new organisational unit within the Tourist Organization of Belgrade hopes to facilitate a more significant

the list of worldwide congress destinations. After 2000 with the initiative of the Sava Centre management and together with generous aid from the EBRD, the Belgrade City Assembly and the Finance Ministry, some 400 million RSD were allocated for the reconstruction of the centre’s infrastructure. The result was the Sava Centre becoming one of

the most modern congress premises in Europe, with capabilities for organising summits of several thousands of participants. Businessmen who come to the Sava Centre are pleasantly surprised not only with the level of summit organisation, but also with the city of Belgrade itself - its culture, cuisine and the opportunities to have a good time. Outside of work and conferencing responsibilities, guests also have the ability to enjoy the unique features of Belgrade including Kalemegdan Fortress, Skadarlija, a cruise on the Danube and Sava rivers, as well as one-day visits to Fruska Gora, Novi Sad, Petrovaradin Fortress, Sremski Karlovci, Veliko Gradiste and Lepenski Vir. n

openness from Belgrade toward the rest of the world. “Belgrade is an open city - the city of the future – and it is prepared for worldwide and international decisions to be once again made in its congress halls, just as they were in the past,” says the Director of the Tourist Organization of Belgrade, Jasna Dimitrijevic.

t is extremely important for every country to become a respectable congress destination. In addition to the income this industry generates, it also has the effect of significantly improving a country’s rating, of developing the conditions for other tourist branches and also attracting foreign investors. The well known Sava Centre returned to the international market of congress services in 2005 when the European Bank for Reconstruction and Development entrusted the organization of the 14th annual banking conference to it. Let us remember that the Sava Centre had been one of the centres of world congress activities from 1977, when it was constructed for the First Conference on European Security and Cooperation (CSCE), until the 1990s. Summits of the Non-Aligned Movement, conferences of ministers, congresses of numerous international organizations such as UNESCO and INTERPOL, world congresses’ of science, medicine and other associations have all been held there. In its three decades of existence more than eight thousand domestic and international summits with more than 1.6 million participants have been held at this venue. However the isolation of Serbia in the 1990s almost erased the Sava Centre from

The well known Sava Centre returned to the international market of congress services in 2005 12 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

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BELGRADE – A CONFERENCE CITY Congress tourism has significant economic potential for Belgrade

The well known Sava Centre returned to the international market of congress services in 2005 12 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

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THE DANUBE A river that dissolves borders between countries and nationalities

The Danube Connecting People This most mystical European river has been inspiring artists and architects for many years

n his article entitled The River that Flows from Heaven, writer and academic, Dejan Medaković writes the following about the Danube River: “In times laden with upheaval, migrations and battles, the Danube made European history in many different ways. It took a long time for the thought of turning the bloody pages of history that unfolded on the Danube River and the line of separation between the peoples that the river formed, into the thought of the Danube being a river that connects people.” The Danube is the most secretive river in Europe. Its real ‘place of birth’ is hidden in the rugged terrain of The Black Forest (Schwarzwald), and so is its ‘meeting point’ with the Black Sea. The Danube is not merely a river. It is much more than that. It is an authentic world of exciting natural beauty, a keeper of traces of ancient civilizations, the witness of frightening battles between empires for their predominance in Europe. This river connects over 80 million people from nine countries who speak dozens of different languages, have diverse religious backgrounds, and nurture their memories of history, their art, customs, myths and legends. The people of the Danube treat the river with reverence and love. Anybody visiting the river will be bestowed with respect and hospitality. This is most apparent when one takes a cruise along the Danube River and stops at one of the many towns. The concept of the Danube being a ‘river that connects’, FACTS & FIGURES

The Danube’s length in Serbia: 588km Navigability: through entire length The surface of the river basin: 102,350km2 The widest point: 2.000m (at Đerdap Lake) The narrowest point: 147m Average depth: 3-17m The deepest point: 90m (it is the deepest river in Europe) Main affluents: Tisa, Sava, Tamis Morava, Nera, Timok Dams: Two National parks: Two In Serbia the river runs through: Belgrade, Novi Sad, Smederevo, Veliko Gradište, Golubac, Donji Milanovac, Kladovo 14 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

The Danube connects over 80 MILLION PEOPLE from nine different countries. Spiritual bridges that the Danube creates between people could be more durable than the ones built by the people in an effort to CONNECT THE RIVER banks, and overcome the obstacles that prevent them from being together was also expressed in the Council of Europe’s Charter on Water (Wassercharte) in 1956. The charter says: “Water knows no frontiers. It is a common asset that requires international cooperation and joint effort in preserving its endangered life”. In order to live up to this principle, there is no bigger and more significant task than for the European Union states jointly working on preserving their most important waterway. Conquerors were often the ones to determine the destiny of the Danube. Understanding that the time of these conquests is long gone, united Europe needs to accept the symbolic value discovered by ancient people while admiring the holy river. Europe views the Danube as its holy river on the basis it runs right through the centre of the continent. Spiritual bridges that the Danube creates between people could be more durable than the ones built by the people in an effort to connect the river banks, and overcome the obstacles that prevent them from being together. The Danube should be loved as the river of European unity. Only by jointly caring about it are we going to be free from arrogant self-absorption and ruthless robbing of its strength. We need to help today’s generations to contribute to the Danube’s splendour, since its past reveals and offers many reasons for new creative endeavours. All these layers of culture stretching across the Danube’s banks create one magnificent European canvas, where individual nuances represent fragments that make it whole, thus revealing its real purpose. Acquaint yourself with this mighty river, and remind yourself of a time which we nostalgically think of being worth remembering. The Danube is the past, but also the present and the future. It is a timeless river.

n 2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 15

THE DANUBE A river that dissolves borders between countries and nationalities

The Danube Connecting People This most mystical European river has been inspiring artists and architects for many years

n 2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 15

CULTURAL MONUMENTS The Cultural Heritage Preservation Institute has placed a total of 333 monuments in Belgrade under protection

Safeguarding Cultural Heritage

The first public monument in Belgrade was erected in 1848 in what is today’s Karađorđe Park. The monument was erected by Prince Aleksandar Karađorđević

Princess Ljubica’s Residence 16 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

Bohemian quarter known as Skadarlija is one of the most famous cultural areas in the Serbian capital. In accordance with the Law on Monuments of Culture, the Cultural Heritage Preservation Institute has placed a total of 333 monuments in Belgrade under protection. The most renowned of these monuments are the Belgrade Fortress, Knez Mihailova Street, the National Parliament building and Skadarlija. Of the 333 monuments, nine are designated cultural and historic areas, 21 are archaeological sites, 29 are cultural monuments and seven are places of special historic importance. Cultural heritage is protected by law and as such should not be damaged or destroyed; appearance, purpose and composition cannot be altered without special permission. In order for a monument to be recognised under the auspices of cultural heritage, it needs to be closely tied to a historic event or a historic person. If an important person lived in a certain building, if a historical event occurred in that building or the building is architecturally important, then this classifies it as a cultural monument. Buildings such as churches, monasteries, privatelyowned houses, schools, libraries, tombs and historic landmarks are all considered as cultural monuments. Depending on their importance, they are divided into two categories - cultural heritage of great importance, and cultural heritage of exceptional importance. There are 15 cultural monuments of exceptional importance. This category includes the likes of Belgrade Fortress, Prince Miloš’ Residence in Topčider Park, Princess Ljubica’s Residence, Saborna Crkva (the Orthodox cathedral) and Knez Mihailova Street. There are 51 cultural monuments of great importance in Belgrade such as the main railway station

Karadjordjev Park

The need to have an organised approach to the protection of Belgrade’s monuments arose between the two World Wars, when the city was developing at a rapid rate and as a result was jeopardising its cultural heritage building, the house of Duke Stepa Stepanović, the Doctor’s Tower, the church cabin in Vranić and the building of the Belgrade Cooperative. Hall 1 of Belgrade Fair has been recently been declared an item of cultural heritage following a proposal made by the Ministry of Culture and the State Institute for Protection of Cultural Monuments. The decision to classify the hall was actually made by the Serbian Government. There is a plan to also include Halls 2 and 3, as well as to preserve the unique fair buildings on the right bank of the Sava River. The need to have an organised approach to the protection of Belgrade’s monuments arose between the two World Wars, when the city was developing at a rapid rate and as a result was jeopardising its cultural heritage. Belgrade’s Cultural Heritage Preservation Institute was founded on May 27th, 1960. The institute has a construction department which handles specialised construction and artisan work with the aim of preserving relevant monuments and cultural items. n

Knez Mihailova Street

Saborna Crkva 2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 17

CULTURAL MONUMENTS The Cultural Heritage Preservation Institute has placed a total of 333 monuments in Belgrade under protection

Safeguarding Cultural Heritage

The first public monument in Belgrade was erected in 1848 in what is today’s Karađorđe Park. The monument was erected by Prince Aleksandar Karađorđević

Princess Ljubica’s Residence 16 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

Karadjordjev Park

Knez Mihailova Street

Saborna Crkva 2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 17

THE MONUMENTS Today's Belgrade fortress represents a museum of Belgrade's past

At the Crossroads OF HISTORY Together with the fortress on the hill above the Sava’s confluence with the Danube, antique Singidunum was born

ebojsa Tower, the Zoo, classy Kalemegdan Terrace restaurant, Ruzica Church, the Powder Magazine, the Observatory, Belgrade’s Victor monument, Cvijeta Zuzoric Pavilion…here are enough reasons to inflame the imagination of one to visit Kalemegdan, the oldest part of Belgrade. And there are no words that can describe the beautiful view of the confluence of the Sava and the Danube at dusk. Belgrade Fortress on the right bank of the Danube dominates the confluence of the Sava and the Danube rivers. It was built between the first and eighteenth century AD as a defensive complex. It represents the oldest known historical core of Belgrade, where settlements existed back in prehistoric, antique and medieval times. Today, the fortress is a sort of historical museum of Belgrade. The complex of Belgrade fortress is divided into the Upper and Lower City and Kalemegdan Park. Due to its extremely significant strategic position, the fortress was built in a place that in the late first century AD was a Roman castrum, a permanent military camp of the fourth legion of the emperor Flavius. After its destruction by Goths and Huns, the fortress was rebuilt in the first decades of the sixth century AD. Less than a hundred years later, it was destroyed by Avars and Slavs. Antique Singidunum was built next to the fortress on the hill above the confluence of the Sava and Danube, and Slavic Belgrade was built in the same place. The Belgrade Fortress was often destroyed and rebuilt. Serbian defensive walls stand above Roman walls, and Turkish and Austrian fortifications were built above them. In twelfth century AD, Byzantine Emperor Manuel Comninus built a new castle above the Roman ruins. In the first decades of the fourteenth century AD this small fortress on the hill was expanded to the river banks. The largest and most beautiful park in Belgrade, Kalemegdan is also a significant cultural and historical complex dominated by Belgrade Fortress above the confluence of the Sava and the Danube. The name Kalemegdan refers only to the plateau

The largest and most beautiful park in Belgrade, Kalemegdan is also a significant cultural and historical complex dominated by Belgrade fortress above the confluence of the Sava and the Danube 18 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

around the fortress and it was turned into a park in the 1880s. While the fortress was the main military defence of Belgrade, the plateau was used to provide a good view of the enemy and to hold it for battle. Thus its name derives from the Turkish words “Kale” - city i.e. fortress and “Megdan” - field. The Turks also called it Ficir-Bajir, which means Thinking Hill. Rearrangement of the park started after the fortress was surrendered to the Serbs in 1867, by the order of Prince Mihailo Obrenovic. The drafts for the rearrangement of Kalemegdan were made by first Belgrade urbanist, Emilijan Josimovic, and trees were planted between 1873 and 1875. There are two entrances to Kalemegdan Park: one from Knez Mihailova Street (the entrance to Big Kalemegdan) and the other from Uzun Mirkova Street (the entrance to Small Kalemegdan). FACTS & FIGURES

NEBOJSA TOWER Nebojsa Tower was built in the fifteenth century AD. Its reconstruction is currently in progress. The exterior and interior of the tower still look authentic, but there is a modern hall in front of it containing the information centre, cloakroom and restrooms. A multifunctional space inside the walls is used for exhibitions, concerts, shows and performances. CVIJETA ZUZORIC PAVILION Built in 1928 with donations from the Friends of Art Society “Cvijeta Zuzoric”, with the concept of Branislav Nusic and designed by architect Branislav Kojic. This was the first exhibition gallery in Belgrade. Various exhibitions, concerts and other cultural events are held in the pavilion. Cvijeta Zuzoric (1552-1648) was a poet, and a noble and the most beautiful woman in Dubrovnik. BELGRADE FORTRESS KEYS This monument is situated at the location where the Sultan’s edict was read, giving up the fortress to Prince Mihailo Obrenovic and the Serbian troops. It was designed by sculptor Mihailo Paunovic and it was placed there on the occasion of the 100th anniversary of the event in 1967.

2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 19

THE MONUMENTS Today's Belgrade fortress represents a museum of Belgrade's past

At the Crossroads OF HISTORY Together with the fortress on the hill above the Sava’s confluence with the Danube, antique Singidunum was born

2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 19

THE MONUMENTS

The best view of the Danube River and across the Pannonian Plain is from Gardos in Zemun

Where Time Stands Still The old city centre, Gardos Tower, charming restaurants and the traditional hospitality of its people, attract many visitors to Zemun

emun is a place that everyone should visit and get to know. Everyone should feel its hot temper, see the elegance of the past times of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, its everyday busyness and the seaport charm of the Danube banks at Zemun Quay. Numerous restaurants, with the intoxicating smell of fish and other specialties ‘spiced’ by the melancholic sounds of tambourines, simply lure you to stop by and indulge yourself. This place has an exquisite geostrategic position. Since Neolithic times people have taken advantage of the suitable position near the river and there they founded a settlement. In the third century BC the Celtic tribe Scordisci settled in this region and called it Taurunum. When the Romans conquered the area of the lower Danube in the first century AD for the first time and established many military camps, they also founded what was to become the centre of the Roman Pannonic fleet. The toponym Zemun was introduced with the arrival of the Slavs, who gave it that name after the dugout houses (Serbian: zemunica) in which the first inhabitants of the settlement lived. It is guessed there used to be a bridge over the Sava River, which connected Singidunum (Belgrade) and Taurunum and this

20 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

bridge was the part of one of the most important Roman roads, Via Militaris, which connected fortresses and settlements along the Danube Limes or the border. Zemun is remembered in legends as the settlement of fishermen, craftsmen and merchants and it has retained this ambience today. The old city centre, Gardos Tower, and the traditional hospitality of its people attract many visitors who enjoy the national cuisine and intimate atmosphere of restaurants in Zemun. Once an independent city, Zemun became a municipality within the city of Belgrade in 1945.

Discover what life was like in a Neolithic metropolis

The first urban core of Europe The pre-historic locality of Belo Brdo (White Hill), located on the shores of the Danube, represents a world famous archaeological site with the remains of a large Neolithic settlement TOURS

A tour of the Vinca archaeological site is organized every Saturday by the Belgrade Tourist Agency. The tour departs at 11:00 in front of the Belgrade City Assembly (6 Nikola Pasic Square). Individual visits are also possible on Saturdays and Sundays between 10:00 and 19:00. At the site you will be met by a guide who will inform you of all the important facts related to the site history.

WHAT TO SEE

ZEMUN FORTRESS The fortress represents the oldest building in Zemun, dating back to the ninth and eleventh centuries. It was built by Hungarian authorities in 1896 and was reconstructed in 1962. HOUSE WITH SUNGLASS Was built in the beginning of the nineteenth century in a classic style with baroque elements. KARAMATA FAMILY HOUSE Built in 1764 for the wealthy merchant Kuzman Jovanovic, and in 1772 was bought by Dimitrije Karamata, whose descendents still live there today. The interior contains stylish furniture dating from the 18th and 19th centuries. ICKO’S HOUSE Was built in 1793 for Petar Icko in a style that is a transition from baroque towards classicism. SPIRTA’S HOUSE A rare example of a residential building dating from 1855-1856. It was constructed for the Cincar Spirta family. Today, this building houses the Zemun Home Museum, founded in 1955.

Archaeological remains which bear witness to the creation, rise and disappearance of the Neolithic Vincan culture are stored in the National Museum as artifacts of early European civilization

he archaeological base of Vincan culture is located not far from the Belgrade suburb of Vinca. The site is located in a 10.5 metre deep cultural layer and occupies an area of 10 hectares. During excavations, which were started in 1908 by Miloje Vasic, a professor at the University of Belgrade, many houses were discovered – dugouts with the remains of objects from prehistoric man. Houses in the settlement were built in lines, always orientated in the same direction, with passages and streets between them. Thus, Vinca is

considered to be the first urban core of Europe. One needs only a little imagination to get a picture of life in this Neolithic metropolis on the shores of the Danube. Each of the deposited layers marks a specific chapter of life in Vinca (from the period between around 4500 and 3200 BC), and holds real treasures consisting of a diversity of artifacts. Tools and weapons made of bone and stone, kitchenware for everyday use, richly decorated ritual vases, a large number of remarkably styled anthropomorphic and zoomorphic figurines, jewellery made of rare and precious materials and numerous other objects and pieces of art made in Vinca itself or acquired from distant places (middle Europe, lower Podunavlje or from the Mediterranean) have all been found here. Today, these objects are on display at the National Museum in Belgrade, Belgrade City Museum and the Vincan collection at the Faculty of Philosophy in Belgrade. Around 4000 BC, the Vincan culture encompassed a territory larger than the territory of any other Neolithic culture in Europe. Some settlements of Vincan culture were not only larger and more populated than all other Neolithic settlements from that period, but were also larger and more populated than the first cities that emerged much later in Mesopotamia, Aegea and Egypt. The Vincan culture was at the peak of its development until 3800 BC, with the appearance of communities that developed new economic and social relations, based on cattle breeding and copper and gold processing. 2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 21

THE MONUMENTS

The best view of the Danube River and across the Pannonian Plain is from Gardos in Zemun

Where Time Stands Still The old city centre, Gardos Tower, charming restaurants and the traditional hospitality of its people, attract many visitors to Zemun

20 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

Discover what life was like in a Neolithic metropolis

WHAT TO SEE

Archaeological remains which bear witness to the creation, rise and disappearance of the Neolithic Vincan culture are stored in the National Museum as artifacts of early European civilization

THE MONUMENTS

THE DANUBE CONFERENCE

Golubac - the pearl of medieval architecture

The City of Ten Towers

utside the city of Golubac is a medieval fortress - a cultural monument of special importance. It is located in the Djerdap National Park, on the right shore of the Danube, four kilometres downstream from today’s modern settlement of Golubac. The fortress is perched high on a cliff at the entrance of the Djerdap canyon, where the river narrows. It was constructed in a fan-like fashion and consists of three compounds: rear, forward and upper city (including the citadel), and encompasses 10 towers and two large portcullises. The staircases and interior flooring of the fortress towers are made of timber, whilst the steps leading to them and the exterior wall structure is made of stone. In front of the fortress, the forward wall doubles as the outer wall of a moat, it is connected to the Danube and was most likely filled with water. The fortress is connected to the Babakai Rock (which still protrudes from the Danube) by a heavy chain. Thus, the fortress had full control of both land and water transport through the Djerdap canyon.

This settlement is first mentioned in Hungarian manuscripts dating back to 1335

A civilian settlement, witnessed today by only partially explored buildings, was located outside the fortress. Golubac is mentioned for the first time in Hungarian manuscripts dating back to 1335. It is unknown when and who built the fortress, however its base, the Upper City, was built by a Serbian Orthodox nobleman, which accounts for the Orthodox chapel within the fourth tower. It is thought the city

The Upper City was built by a Serbian Orthodox nobleman which accounts for the Orthodox chapel within the fourth tower was later expanded (with rear and forward compounds) during Serbian or Hungarian rule, although it is also entirely possible that the entire city was initially built to its present size. The last phase of construction was carried out by Ottoman Turks, who fortified the sixth, seventh, eighth and ninth towers and added a low (tenth) artillery tower at the extension of the outside wall. This final tower controlled the Danube and protected the longboat pier located beside it. After the First World War, a road was cut through the rock the fortress sits on, also passing through the fortress by way of both of its portcullises. Many people visit Golubac today, partly due to the fact that a main road passes through and also because it is located near Lepenski Vir - joining these two localities into a common tourism area. The municipality of Golubac invests major efforts into the promotion of Golubac fortress as a significant monument on both the tourist map of Serbia in addition to that of the rest of Europe. n GUARDIAN OF THE DANUBE

The fortress is connected to the Babakai Rock (which still protrudes from the Danube) by a heavy chain. Thus, the fortress had full control of both land and water transport through the Djerdap canyon. 22 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

The European Union’s Danube Strategy

A River of Opportunity

ollowing Romania and Bulgaria’s accession in 2007, the Danube has become an ‘internal’ water transport route running through the European Union. It creates a direct link from the North Sea to the Black Sea. The Danube Region is economically, environmentally and culturally a heterogeneous zone. DANIELA SCHILY, GTZ Project Director, Regional Project on development Danube Competence Center

POSITIVE ENERGY The Danube is a river that connects regions, cities and nations...so via the Danube, Belgrade becomes part of a European story and stands shoulder to shoulder with other European cities. The Danube provides an excellent competitive advantage and can help the city’s development in many ways. In regards to tourism, the Danube is incredibly popular in the Western European countries and year-on-year more tourists are focusing on this destination. Belgrade has a unique and positive energy, it is open to all ages and is a unique mixture of the East and the West, modern and historical, relaxation and activities. The possibilities for developing tourism here are limitless, we have the potential and with relatively modest investments, the benefits could be huge. Belgrade is linked to the regions in the east and west of Europe and this provides an excellent basis for regional cooperation in many fields – economic, business, transport, environmental protection, and culture. Today regional cooperation is not only desirable, but essential. One of the best examples of regional cooperation is the establishment of the Danube Competence Centre (DCC). The goal of this association is to act as a bridge between tourist organizations and experts in the central and lower Trans-Danubian region, and to improve the region’s tourism offering through mutual activities. The association also aims to improve accommodation, environmental and other standards. Better tourism infrastructure will certainly draw in more tourists which will result in increased economic activity, creating more jobs and contributing to Serbia’s overall economic and cultural development.

ŽELJKO OŽEGOVIĆ, Belgrade City Council Member

THE GATE TO EUROPE The Danube, as a large international river, holds huge importance not only for Belgrade, but also for Serbia. It is our gate to Europe. The Danube’s significance is multifaceted in the economic, transport and tourist sense of the word. Also, the Danube is becoming more important in the context of European integration. A year ago a strategy encompassing the Trans-Danubian countries was created and it includes Serbia, which of course is very important for us. I am preparing to travel to Constanza with Minister Božidar Đelić to attend the final conference. The European Union also considers this project important, as it wants to see the Trans-Danubian countries being more closely connected. The Danube is a natural treasure, and as such, is significant for Belgrade. I would especially like to mention its great potential in terms of cargo transport. This requires appropriate infrastructure to be built on the Danube, as the Serbian capital city is at an important intersection. Also, tourism on the Danube is gaining momentum and unlike in the past, we now have between 500 and 600 ships full of foreign tourists docking in Belgrade. We also need to improve that service too, i.e. to build infrastructure that foreign tourists need. The Danube carries enormous development potential both for Serbia and Belgrade. Europe has recognized this, and we need to follow suit.

2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 23

THE MONUMENTS

THE DANUBE CONFERENCE

Golubac - the pearl of medieval architecture

The City of Ten Towers

This settlement is first mentioned in Hungarian manuscripts dating back to 1335

The European Union’s Danube Strategy

A River of Opportunity

ŽELJKO OŽEGOVIĆ, Belgrade City Council Member

2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 23

INTERVIEW Žaklina Gligorijević, Director of the Belgrade Urban Planning Institute

The Diversity of Belgrade

· You are the director of

“The Study on Building Height will envisage the construction of high-rise buildings on Belgrade’s shores, providing that all the necessary prerequisites have been met.” · From an urban planning point of

elgrade is a metropolis that is continually expanding, both by population and area. By March next year, the Belgrade Urban Planning Institute will have devised its master regulation plans for the entire Belgrade region - a total of 55,000 hectares. This will be of assistance to future investors as it will help clarify what they can build and where. We are talking with urban planning expert and architect, Žaklina Gligorijević. Ms. Gligorijević has obtained masters degrees from both Belgrade and Cambridge universities, and her professional experience spans over 20 years of urban development. She is currently the Director of The Belgrade Urban Planning Institute and is the designer of architectural and urban planning projects both in Serbia and Montenegro, as well as the author of several strategic studies and international projects implemented in Serbia, Cyprus, Ireland, the US and Romania.

The justifiable feeling of the city being ‘chaotic’ is a result of illegal construction activities being carried out across the metropolitan area 24 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

tain professional support from Barcelona, Rotterdam, Amsterdam and Dublin. the ‘Danube in the Future’ project. Could you tell us more about this undertaking? - I am not actually the project director, but rather the interested director of the Belgrade Urban Planning Institute who is a keen observer of what is happening on the Danube. In particular I am interested in our city’s status in the European ‘Danube Strategy’, in the special purpose spatial plan for Corridor 7, which is pending and every single plan that involves the Danube, regardless of who devises it.

· The way Novi Beograd should look view, is Belgrade a

chaotic city? - Some parts of Belgrade are built in line with the relevant urban plans, and are, style and form-wise, quite diverse. The justifiable feeling of the city being ‘chaotic’ is a result of illegal construction activities being carried out across the metropolitan area. It also stems from insufficient and incoherent implementation of urban plans particularly in the case of streets and infrastructure, which are crucial to the city looking ‘tidy’, and also the problem of various building complexes that really do not belong in the downtown Belgrade area any longer.

· The Ministry of

Environmental Protection gave the Belgrade Urban Planning Institute a deadline of March to draw up the master regulation plans for the entire metropolitan area of Belgrade. How beneficial are these plans going to be for future investors? - The plans will provide a simplified procedure for obtaining information about building opportunities in certain city blocks and will also shorten the timeline for obtaining a location permit.

· What regional cities have you cooperated with? - We have extensive cooperation with Vienna in almost all areas, as well as with Turin, Athens and Sofia via scientific and specialised projects. We also cooperate with Zagreb through the Association of Belgrade Architects and with Tirana via international projects. We cooperate with other regions too, and have managed to ob-

has still not been clearly profiled. Is Belgrade going to be a high-level business city, and will its current construction identity and context be considered? - The urban guidelines of Novi Beograd are regulated by plans that are almost sixty years old. During this period, blocks in this part of the city have been further developed and there is a pending study on the possibility of construction outside the parameters of the ‘master plan’ which includes business or ‘city’ towers.

· When is the ‘Study on Building Height’, which precisely defines the locations for skyscrapers just like in Vienna, Dublin or Barcelona, going to be completed? One of options is to build skyscrapers beside the rivers just like in London, Paris and New York. This has been contested by certain experts. What is your opinion? - The study is supposed to be completed by September this year. There have been professional discussions about it, and we have respectable consultants from European cities engaged on the project. However, it remains to be seen whether there will be construction near the rivers. In Paris, you won’t see any skyscrapers built along the banks of the river Seine. I don’t think that we should use London or New York as reference points. The total length of the rivers in Belgrade is 100 kilometres, while the river banks are twice as long. Certain banks enjoy the status of protected natural landmarks, while some are considered traditional Belgrade areas. The ‘Study on Building Height’,

A potential development concept for Ada Huja which is currently being written, will envisage the construction of high-rise buildings on Belgrade’s shores, providing that all the necessary prerequisites have been met.

· There seems to be a trend in certain parts of the world such as Moscow, Tokyo, Dubai and Buenos Aires, to construct unusually tall buildings - a race to build the tallest building in the world. How many buildings are there in Belgrade that are over 100 metres tall? - I wouldn’t put Belgrade in the group of cities you’ve just mentioned, however, we do have tall buildings that were built back in the 1970s and 1980s. Our buildings over 100 metres tall are Ušće, the Genex Towers and Beograđanka. n

THE RIVERS AND RIVER BANKS

Belgrade city authorities devised a programme regarding the marinas, docks, rafts and restaurants located on the Danube and Sava Rivers several years ago. The transfer of the jurisdiction of the rivers and river banks is currently being carried out in line with the ‘Law on the Capital City’. In addition to this, the official plan is also being prepared, as well as several comprehensive regulation plans.

2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 25

INTERVIEW Žaklina Gligorijević, Director of the Belgrade Urban Planning Institute

The Diversity of Belgrade

· You are the director of

The justifiable feeling of the city being ‘chaotic’ is a result of illegal construction activities being carried out across the metropolitan area 24 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

· The way Novi Beograd should look view, is Belgrade a

· The Ministry of

THE RIVERS AND RIVER BANKS

2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 25

ADA CIGANLIJA The most popular recreation spot in the capital

Belgrade’s Sea In addition to boasting the longest beach in Belgrade, Ada Ciganlija is also home to the biggest sports centre in the city. Tucked away in lush vegetation and criss-crossed by bicycle and pedestrian tracks, this popular leisure destination offers numerous cafe-bars, clubs and restaurants

ituated on the Sava River, in close proximity to the Danube delta, and only four kilometres from downtown Belgrade, is the Ada Ciganlija peninsula which long ago was an island. Surrounded by dense deciduous forest, with many glades and meadows, Ada has become the biggest, most beautiful and most frequented beach and leisure destination in Belgrade. Some say that its name came from the Celtic words Singa (island) and Lia (submerged ground) which at a later stage became Ciganlija. Ada is a rare natural treasure and was admired even back in the times of Karađorđe and Duke Miloš Obrenović. In 1821 the peninsula was declared a state-protected natural resource, which it remains to this day. The upstream and downstream barriers on the Sava River estuary were built in 1967, resulting in Belgrade acquiring its one-of-a-kind lake - 4.2 kilometres long, with an average width of 200 metres and depths ranging from four to six metres. The overall surface area of Ada Ciganlija, together with Ada Međica and the ‘aquatorium’, is 800 hectares. During the summer season up to 300,000 people per day come here to relax. Undoubtedly, Ada Ciganlija is one of the major environmental features of Belgrade due to a favourable combination of water surfaces and forests. Ada has a very unusual and specific micro-climate with an increased air humidity and a lower than average summer temperature compared to other parts of the city. The main vegetation here is oak and elm. In the mid-twenti-

eth century, many American poplars and green ash were also planted here. There is abundant wildlife with many species of birds such as the endangered pygmy cormorant, wild ducks and seagulls, as well as pheasants and quails. Ada is one of rare city locations where you can still spot deer or hare. The beach area around Savsko Lake has been completely modified and boasts excellent infrastructure; it is one of the longest and most beautiful artificial lake beaches in Europe. The water here is warmer and cleaner than in the rivers, and the lake is ideal for mass recreational activities. Bearing in mind its location, the water quality, infrastructure and length, the lake is suitable for various water-sport competitions including swimming, rowing, water polo, diving and windsurfing. Savsko Lake has been the venue for many international and domestic sporting competitions.

Ada Ciganlija has over 50 different open-air sporting grounds including a golf course and a cable water-skiing facility. There are also football, tennis, handball, volleyball and basketball grounds, as well areas for baseball, rugby and grass hockey. In addition, Ada offers beach-volley and aqua-soccer terrains, and other activities like bungee jumping, rock climbing and paintball. If fishing is more to your liking, Ada even has a safari lake.

ENTERTAINMENT

Ada Ciganlija is the cultural and entertainment hub of Belgrade, especially during the summer months. Many events are held here involving famous writers, actors, singers, culture clubs, choruses, orchestras and amateur artists. In addition to this, there are many shops, picnic spots, a bowling area, a mini-golf course, horse drawn carriages, a tour train, pedal boats, and an eco-friendly boat that uses electricity to sail.

Ada is one of few city locations where you can still spot deer or hare 26 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 27

ADA CIGANLIJA The most popular recreation spot in the capital

ENTERTAINMENT

Ada is one of few city locations where you can still spot deer or hare 26 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 27

BELA STENA (WHITE ROCK)

ADA MEĐICA

Make the trip and enjoy the tastiest fish stew ever

Robinson Crusoe on Belgrade’s Outskirts HOW TO GET TO BELA STENA

In summer, there are organized boat trips to Bela Stena from Višnjica, Pančevo and the Čapljin weekend retreat, which is situated on the left bank of the river Danube. You can reach Čapljin via a small rural-type road, after taking the right exit on the Belgrade-Pančevo highway, near the overpass.

ant to completely relax in the countryside and escape from the noise and traffic jams of the city? Well look no further than just outside the Serbian capital. Only 12 kilometres from the centre of Belgrade, you can find yourself lying on a sandy beach under the shade of poplar trees. Bela Stena (White Rock) is a river-island located on the right bank of the Danube River. Refresh yourself in the waters of the Danube, and then in peaceful surroundings, sam-

While you dine, Danube fishermen will amuse you with their fishing tales, or you can just sit back and relax to the sounds of soothing guitar music 28 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

ple a tasty catfish meal in one of the six restaurants. The chefs here make an extraordinary fish stew. While you dine, Danube fishermen will amuse you with their fishing tales, or you can just sit back and relax to the sounds of soothing guitar music. There are many weekend houses on Bela Stena - mostly in the form of old pile dwellings. People usually come here during the weekend. They sit and relax in the shade of the poplar trees, drinking their coffee or beer and prepare mouth-watering fish barbecues. Swimmers of all ages, from seven to seventyseven, refresh themselves in the river. In the distance one can see Novi Beograd’s skyscrapers, while half a kilometre away freight ships quietly float along the river. There is no loud music, or any unpleasant noise for that matter. Here you will find an almost perfect silence, occasionally interrupted by birdsong. In the past up to 20,000 people used come here for a swim mostly on weekends - now they average only 6,000 or 7,000. Bela Stena is nine kilometres long and belongs to the municipality of Pančevo. It is used by the Vojvodinašume Company for growing commercial poplar trees. Some twenty years ago this was where many companies had their retreats. Most of the weekend houses are located on the tip of the island, near the Danube.

Where the sun never sets

A Great Ship Docked at Belgrade’s Gates This location has quite a unique architectural style with many pile houses, rafts, paths and hearths

hat makes Ada Međica so charming is the imagination, resourcefulness and sense of humour of its local fishermen. Although being very practical in their day to day lives, they are sometimes quite artistic too. The contemporary history of Ada Međica could be likened to that of a great ship docked at the entrance to Belgrade. It begins in the late 1960s, when a residential quarter called Novi Beograd (New Belgrade) was built. A group of enthusiasts decided to drain the swamps of Ada Međica and make Ada ‘a socially useful area’. In the mid-1970s, ‘The Movement for Preservation of Ada’ gained momentum with many environmental associations, based near the Sava and the Danube, joining it. The movement’s headquarters are affectionately known as ’The Club’, and in addition to the administrative office, you will also find a well-stocked shop, a restaurant and a bulletin board containing a lot of useful information. The inn known as ’Špic’ (The Point) plays an important role the daily life of Ada. In addition to the meals on offer, its kind host, the popular Neša, makes it possible for people coming here to test their culinary skills. Also, the inn has a built-in hearth where you can make your own Ada Međica stew or barbecue. THE ADA MEĐICA FLEET

Ada Međica has its own transportation that is as timely as ‘Swiss Rail’. Vesa, one of the captains of the Ada Međica fleet, is a walking encyclopaedia of the island’s history. He knows every single pile house resident and raft owner, every nook and cranny and the best fishing spots on the island.

The inn has a built-in hearth where you can make your own Ada Međica stew or barbecue Ada Međica has quite a unique architectural style with pile houses, rafts, paths and hearths. All facilities are made of light materials and are built to sustain the heavy floods which occur when the water level of the Sava River rises after heavy rains. Of course, there are also many imaginative rafts here of differing colours and shapes. Footpaths play an important role on Ada. The main footpath forms a circuit around the central island area. It is located along the river banks, in the direction of Ada Ciganlija. There are also several adjacent footpaths that link pile houses and rafts to the main path. In addition to these paths made of solid construction materials, there are several smaller dirt roads, made by pile and raft house owners. Ada has a slightly milder climate to that of Novi Beograd. Dense greenery, cultivated beaches, hidden places amidst ’the jungle’, the wind roses, and places where the sun never sets make it possible for visitors to choose a climate that appeals. The flora and fauna on Ada Međica is a mixture of typical river-island and urban-habitat varieties. Here you will find thick shrubbery, willows, ferns, different kinds of mushrooms, decorative garden plants, coniferous trees and flowers. The fauna is also a peculiar mix. Animals here employ interesting ways via water and air to get to their dwellings. The island is home to both wild and domestic animals.

2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 29

BELA STENA (WHITE ROCK)

ADA MEĐICA

Make the trip and enjoy the tastiest fish stew ever

Robinson Crusoe on Belgrade’s Outskirts HOW TO GET TO BELA STENA

While you dine, Danube fishermen will amuse you with their fishing tales, or you can just sit back and relax to the sounds of soothing guitar music 28 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

Where the sun never sets

A Great Ship Docked at Belgrade’s Gates This location has quite a unique architectural style with many pile houses, rafts, paths and hearths

2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 29

VELIKO RATNO OSTRVO AND THE LIDO

ADA HUJA

A haven of unspoiled nature

The perfect place for hedonists and sports lovers

Belgrade’s Wild Oasis

A Future Environmental Zone

Despite being so close to the city, this island boasts a well preserved environment and is home to many rare species of birds. There is also the beautiful beach known as the Lido

Ada Huja has the biggest go-cart track in the Balkans. Nearby there is also a beach volleyball court and three tennis courts

eliko Ratno Ostrvo is located at the delta of the Sava River, near Zemun, and Lido Beach is located at its very tip. The island covers an area of just over two square kilometres and is considered a state protected area. It is a small, isolated world full of lush vegetation, birds and insects. In other words, this is an intact jungle at the very heart of the capital city. Veliko Ratno Ostrvo has always been an important military and strategic point, often targeted by various armies and it was the place where Belgrade’s defence line began. Today it is home to many country houses and gardens owned by ardent nature lovers.

It is quite interesting to see the wonderfully decorated pile houses, which look like they belong to a children’s fairy tale. It almost seems as though their owners decorated these houses to resemble their favourite childhood toys. Here, people relax in their tiny yards, preparing salads, cooking lunch, surrounded by pots and pans. They nod as you pass by. As a habitat for rare and endangered bird species, the island is also perfect for bird watchers. Once you get deeper into the island, you feel the air becoming very sticky, almost tropical. The shrubbery starts resembling that of a jungle, the footpaths look like green tunnels with huge trees fighting for sunlight, fully covered in lianas. In this protected area, there are three distinct zones – the environmental protection zone (which has the status of a special nature reserve and covers the area near the river bank), the recreational zone (located in the interior of the island) and the tourism zone where Lido Beach is. There are plans to extend the latter zone. You can access the island only by water. During the summer season there is a pontoon bridge that starts at the Zemun pier.

da Huja is a coastal area located only four kilometres from downtown Belgrade, downstream from the Pančevo Bridge. The area stretches from the bridge to the village of Višnjica. On one side there is the Danube River, and on the other is Višnjička Street. According to the new Belgrade master plan, Ada Huja will finally get the status it deserves based on its outstanding natural beauty. This is a future environmental zone where catering, retail and sports facilities are going to be built. A lovely quay and a well lit pedestriHEAVEN FOR GO-CART LOVERS

AdaKart was opened in August 2004. Since then it has hosted many Serbian and Montenegrin go-kart championships. There are also regular training and recreational driving sessions held here. Regardless of whether you are a competitor, a recreational driver or simply a fan of car racing, Ada Huja is a real racing heaven.

A lovely quay and a well lit pedestrian path with benches where you can sit and rest draw many people to this area an path with benches where you can sit and rest, as well as children’s entertainment facilities, draw many people to this area. Also, a section of the quay has been transformed into a dock. Ada Huja has the biggest go-cart track in the Balkans with beach volleyball grounds nearby. Municipal authorities have also built three tennis courts – two clay courts and one made of concrete. n

The Lido most probably got its name from a beach near Venice as it is similarly long and sandy 30 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 31

VELIKO RATNO OSTRVO AND THE LIDO

ADA HUJA

A haven of unspoiled nature

The perfect place for hedonists and sports lovers

Belgrade’s Wild Oasis

A Future Environmental Zone

Despite being so close to the city, this island boasts a well preserved environment and is home to many rare species of birds. There is also the beautiful beach known as the Lido

Ada Huja has the biggest go-cart track in the Balkans. Nearby there is also a beach volleyball court and three tennis courts

The Lido most probably got its name from a beach near Venice as it is similarly long and sandy 30 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 31

RAFT CLUBS, RESTAURANTS, DISCO CLUBS... Discovering Serbia’s capital city as an entertainment centre

Hot Rhythms from Du sk to Dawn Rightly so, Belgrade is known for its fabulous night life. Unlike other European cities, Belgrade never sleeps, and every generation of every lifestyle and income can find something to do for fun at night out in Belgrade

Raft club ’Ambis’ Located on the right bank of the Sava River, near Belgrade Fair. Music includes hip-hop, r’n’b, pop, house, live music, and occasionally folk music. Prices here are above the average in Belgrade. Mostly for younger people. This is a club and a party venue and is open only during the summer. Telephone: 065 311 2233 self into a restaurant and an outdoor café bar, while, at night it turns into a club. Telephone: 011 319 4971

OUR RECOMMENDATIONS: Raft club ‘Amsterdam’ Located on Zemun Quay, on the Danube River, near Hotel Jugoslavija. There is music here every night - mostly rhythm and blues and pop, with frequent live shows. The drinks cost more than usual but the food here is great. This is a good place for all generations. During the day, Amsterdam transforms itRaft club ’Bibis’ Located on the right bank of the Danube River this raft features mostly r’n’b, dance and pop music. Prices are higher than average. It is suitable for all ages. This is a café bar, ideal for going out during day or night. Telephone: 011 319 2150

elgrade has the reputation of a non-stop night life with many clubs open from dusk to dawn. Some of the most recognisable clubs are located on the rafts, known as splavs, along the banks of rivers Sava and Danube. People from the former Yugoslav republics who come here for fun weekends say that Belgrade has a friendly atmosphere, great clubs and bars, cheap drinks, there are no language barriers and the law is not that strict when it comes to night life. 32 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

RAFT CLUBS The rafts are Belgrade’s trade-mark and one of the main reasons why the city is called the ‘Balkan epicentre of fun’. They offer entertainment throughout the night, and a vast range of different music styles including Serbian pop, rock and roll, techno, folk etc. The rafts are mainly located on the Danube River near the Hotel Jugoslavija, on the banks of the river Sava (between the bridges), and on Ada Ciganlija.

Raft club ‘Hua Hua’ Situated on Ada Ciganlija, on the Sava River, this raft club features live music, mostly folk. The prices of drinks are above average. It is suitable for all ages. Reservations are required. Telephone: 063 239 373 Raft club ‘Acapulco’ This raft club is located near Hotel Jugoslavija. It has excellent live music, a mixture of folk, pop and music from the former Yugoslav republics. Prices here are above the average in Belgrade. All generations are welcome. This is both a restaurant and a club, which is also open during the winter months. Telephone: 063 778 4760 Raft club ‘Amfora’ Located on Zemun Quay near Hotel Jugoslavija, the music here is mostly pop and prices here are higher than the average in Belgrade. The raft is open to all ages. This is a café bar and a perfect place for relaxing. Telephone: 011 269 9789 Raft club ‘Blaywatch’ Located on the Danube near Hotel Jugoslavia, the music here includes dance, r’n’b, commercial music, and the occasional pop concert. Prices are above average. A good club for the younger generation. Telephone: 011 319 1228 2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 33

RAFT CLUBS, RESTAURANTS, DISCO CLUBS... Discovering Serbia’s capital city as an entertainment centre

Raft club ‘Fashion Café’ Found near the 25 Maj Sports Centre, the music here is mostly dance, house and techno. Average prices. A great café bar for the younger generation.

Club ‘Cvijeta’ The Cvijeta Lounge Club is open every day except Sunday. Music here is techno and house with many alternative DJs also performing. Telephone: 011 2622355

Raft club ‘Lucas’ This is one of the clubs that has reached cult status. It is located between Ušće and the Branko Bridge in Novi Beograd. It only has folk music and prices are above average.

Club ‘Barutana’ Located at the foot of Kalemegdan Fortress, this is an outdoor club. Many famous DJs have played here including Gilles Peterson, Cold Cut, Silicone Sole, Dino Psaras, Tiga, and Mr. C. The club is also used for theatre plays. Telephone: 011 3220127

CAFÉ BARS AND CLUBS IN BELGRADE Night life in Belgrade begins at 10 pm, and sometimes even later. If you looking for a place to ‘warm up’ for the exciting night ahead, or just relax and have a cup of coffee with your friends somewhere quiet, we recommend you visit some of the café bars. There are fancy bars in so-called Silicon Valley (Strahinjića Bana Street) in Dorćol, outdoor bars in Obilićev Venac and quiet bars in Njegoševa Street in Vračar. Our recommendations: Underground Located below Kalemegdan Park and open all year round. Famous DJs regularly perform here. Telephone: 011 3282524

Bitef Art Café Located in an old Evangelical church, the music here is a mixture of live music, mostly rock, soul and funk. On Fridays and Saturdays, DJs play 1980s and 1990s music, with some of the best Belgrade club bands also playing here like Makao, Loco or the resident band of the Bitef Art Café. Telephone: 011 3220608

Akademija In the late 1980s this was one of the top five clubs in Europe. Today, many renowned local and international DJs play here. This is also a small concert venue. Telephone: 011 2627846

Tramvaj This pub is located near the Vuk Monument. Live music includes blues, jazz and rock. Tel: 011 3408269

Little Bay This restaurant is part of the famous British chain and is located at 9a Dositejeva Street.

Our recommendations: Plato Pub Located in a building that houses the Faculty of Philosophy, during the day it is a café bar and at night it becomes a jazz club with live music. Telephone: 011 635010

Cosy Belgrade Located in the renowned Eurocentre Gallery in Makedonska Street, and decorated in Pop Art style.

Que Pasa Que Pasa is a large pub known for its great tequila parties. Telephone: 011 3284764

Restaurant ‘Moon’ - Belgrade A great place to enjoy traditional Japanese meals, especially sushi. Located at 30 Makedonska Street, Belgrade.

RESTAURANTS Just like any other cultural elements, Serbian cuisine is influenced by the many different nations and cultures that have lived in or passed through the country. Serbian cuisine is a mixture of Mediterranean, Oriental and Central European cuisines. Restaurant ’Dačo’ The number-one national cuisine restaurant in Belgrade can be found at 49 Patris Lumumba Street.

Chez Tristan Belgrade One of the best health food restaurants in Belgrade. Located at 34 Skadarska Street. Restaurant ‘27’ A restaurant with a menu that resembles a collection of contemporary poetry. Located at 27 Istarska Street. Restaurant ‘Zaplet’ This restaurant has an extensive wine list - probably the best in Belgrade. Located at 2 Kajmakčalanska Street. Restaurant ‘Opera’ Offering a wonderful outdoor dining area, this restaurant serves international dishes and is located at 30 Obilićev Venac. Restaurant ‘Ribnjak’ Located on the left bank of the Danube River, upstream from Pančevo Bridge. This restaurant has a parking lot and a docking area for boats and yachts up to 25 metres in length. n

34 River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad / 2010

2010 / River Danube - Belgrade Crossroad 35