COSM-Nov-Dec-2012 by Cosmetics Magazine

INSPIRING CANADA’S BEAUTY EXPERTS

LISA RAY’S TRIUMPH (& Good Hair Days Ahead)

THE FINE ART OF FRAGRANCE GIFT-GIVING

Sparkle & Shine

PARTY-READY MAKEUP NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2012

cosmeticsmag.com

PM 40070230. RETURN UNDELIVERABLE ITEMS TO: COSMETICS CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT, 7TH FLOOR, ONE MT. PLEASANT ROAD, TORONTO ON M4Y 2Y5

LANCĂ&#x201D;ME PRESENTS

Te new fragrance

Break free from convention at lancome.ca

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Discover visibly younger-looking eyes at lancome.ca

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CONTENTS November / December 2012

20 THE REGULARS 10 / 14 / 68 / 70 /

Editor’s Letter Your Say: Thoughts on our last issue Events Calendar & Win This Publisher’s Report

Beauty Icon: Julia Roberts and Lancôme Beauty Milestone: Thierry Mugler’s Angel Beauty Star: Dick Page of Shiseido Scene: Latest industry events

FEATURE STORIES 42 / Beauty School: All about brows 46 / Cover Story: Lisa Ray’s courage and beauty 48 / Anti-aging Makeup: Expert-approved techniques to keep your makeup looking youthful 58 / Holiday Fragrance: Help your customers find the perfect scent for everybody on their gift-giving list 62 / Beauty Fix: The answers to a bevy of anti-aging eye concerns

NEWS 18 / Beauty Flash: An interview with Aerin Lauder, Karl Lagerfeld’s new beauty collaboration and more 20 / Beauty Finds: Glamorous holiday makeup 22 / Counter Intelligence: Top-selling eye creams

INSPIR ING

Good Hair Days Ahead)

NEW PRODUCTS 27 / Beauty Deciphered: The best hair oil for you 34 / New Beauty: Best in makeup and skincare 52 / New Scents: Gorgeous new fragrances

EXPERT ADVICE 24 / Ask a Doctor: Treating dry skin in the winter 26 / Ingredients 101: Decoding ergothioneine 28 / Haircare 101: Tips for taming your curls

THE FINE ART OF FRAGRANCE GIFT-GIVING

Cover photo by Colston Julian/ saltmanagement.com.

NOVEM BER/DE

Sparkle & Shine PARTY-R CEMBER 2012

cosmeticsmag.com

PM 40070230. RETURN COSMETICS CIRCULATIONUNDELIVERAB LEITEMS TO: DEPARTMENT, 7TH ONE MT. PLEASANT FLOOR, ROAD, TORONTO ON M4Y 2Y5

NOV_COVER.indd

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

CANA DA’S BEAUT Y EXPER TS

LISA RAY’S TRIUMPH (&

EADY MAKEUP

12-10-11 1:00 PM

PHOTO: AERIN LAUDER, COURTESY OF AERIN; COVER: HAIR & MAKEUP, ANDREA CLAIRE /JUDY INC; STYLING, NADIA PIZZIMENTI /JUDY INC; PRODUCER, RAMAN LAMBA/SALTMANAGEMENT.COM, SHOT IN TORONTO

BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE 32 / 40 / 44 / 69 /

1100 members and growing!

We’ve given away over $17,000 worth of Coty prizes.

Visit the site today for your chance to win! PLUS:

Get the inside news and see new product launches before anyone else!

• Learn the best new training and selling tips. • See behind-the-scenes video from fragrance launches. …and much more.

How to join: Just visit the Cosmetics magazine site at www.cosmeticsmag.com and click on the COTY Club icon.

Simply register and you’re a member!

INSPIRING CANADA’S BEAUTY EXPERTS

One Mount Pleasant Road, 8th Floor, Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M4Y 2Y5 Tel: 416.764.1664 / Fax: 416.764.1704 / cosmeticsmag.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Kristen Vinakmens ART DIRECTOR Lisa de Nikolits ASSISTANT EDITOR Jillian Vieira EDITORIAL INTERNS Christina Ciddio, Daniela Holmes, Emma Jarratt CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner, Jill Dunn, Stephen Ferrie, Dr. Frank Lista, Heather Marrin EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, COSMETICS & BEAUTY GROUP, PUBLISHER, COSMETICS MAGAZINE James R. Hicks

jim.hicks@cosmetics.rogers.com

national advertising director Donna Howlett

donna.howlett @cosmetics.rogers.com

EVENTS CO-ORDINATOR Ruth Taylor-Cox PRODUCTION MANAGER Karen Richards CIRCULATION MANAGER Bibi Khan

Vol. 41, No. 6 November/December 2012 Cosmetics, established in 1972, is published 6 times per year by Rogers Publishing Limited, a division of Rogers Media Inc. Rogers Media Inc., President and CEO: Keith Pelley Rogers Publishing Limited, President and CEO: Ken Whyte Rogers Publishing Limited, Executive Publisher: Lorraine Hoefler Editorial Director: Dianne DeFenoyl; Creative Director: Jason Logan Vice-Presidents: Julie Osborne, Patrick Renard Group Marketing Director: Karen Kelar Senior Marketing & Communications Associate: Hazel Picco Marketing & Promotions Associate: Jason Emata Marketing & Events Associate: Laura Carinci

We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Magazine Fund, toward our editorial costs. Cosmetics is published every two months for selected personnel in manufacturing, distributing, and retailing areas of the cosmetics, fragrance, toiletries and personal grooming, esthetics and related fields. All rights reserved. Contents may not be reproduced by any means, wholly or in part, without the written permission of the publisher. Subscriber Services: To subscribe, renew your subscription or to change your address or information, please visit us at rogersb2bmedia.com/cosm Mail Preferences: Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to reputable companies whose products or services may be of interest to you. If you do not want your name to be made available please contact us at rogers@cstonecanada.com or update your profile at rogersb2bmedia.com/cosm Our environmental policy is available at rogerspublishing.ca/environment Cosmetics receives unsolicited features and materials from time to time. Cosmetics, its affiliates and assignees may use, reproduce, publish, re-publish, distribute, store and archive such submissions in whole or in part in any form or medium whatsoever, without compensation of any sort. Publications Mail Agreement 40070230. Registration Number 222534. Periodicals Postage Paid at Toronto, Ontario.Contents copyright 2011 by Rogers Publishing Limited, a division of Rogers Media Inc. Return undeliverable items to: Cosmetics Circulation Department, 8th Floor, One Mt Pleasant Road, Toronto, ON M4Y 2Y5

september 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

COSMETICS MAGAZINE SUBSCRIPTION PRICE Subscription Price: Canada $51.00 per year. Outside Canada $88.00 US per year, Single Copy Canada $9.50 Cosmetics is published 6 times per year except for occasional combined, expanded or premium issues, which count as two subscription issues. To order your copy of the 2012 Cosmetics Agenda, contact Michelle Iliescu at 416.764.1441/ Toll free: 1-800-268-9119/ext. 1441 or by e-mail at michelle.iliescu@rci.rogers.com

SUBSCRIBER SERVICES

To subscribe, renew your subscription or to change your address or information please visit us at rogersb2bmedia.com/cosm

SINGLE COPY & DIRECTORY SALES

Michelle Iliescu 416.764.1441 E-mail: michelle.iliescu@rci.rogers.com 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. EST weekdays Fax: 416.764.1523 Mail: Cosmetics, One Mount Pleasant Road, 7th Floor, Toronto, ON M4Y 2Y5

ISSN number: 01315-1301

Radiant Complexion

It is essential to take care of your skin during the winter to avoid having a dull complexion. Your skin will glow thanks to the growing “Healthy” line from Bourjois Paris!

Nourish your skin with vitamins all winter long! I absolutely adore. . .

‘‘ Beauty Expert, Bourjois Paris

From left to right: Healthy Balance powder, $24; Healthy Mix concealer, $19; Healthy Mix Serum foundation, $27; and Healthy Mix Touche, $20.

Follow Bourjois Canada

‘‘

Christine Mann

...having hydrated and glowing skin. I always begin by applying the Healthy Mix concealer to cover any blemishes and imperfections, it gives me a radiant and anti-fatigue result. I apply the Healthy Mix Serum foundation over top to enhance the look of my skin thanks to the Serum’s vitamin-enriched Asian fruit therapy. It provides all of the hydration that my skin needs. Even better, it is also non-oily and great for my sensitive skin. I follow up with a sweep of the Healthy Balance powder along my t-zone to set my foundation and mattify any shiny areas. My fnal secret to the perfect complexion is the Healthy Mix Touche. Its easy-to-blend texture is enriched with lightrefecting pigments to give me that extra glow. To fnish my look, I always add a touch of Bourjois blush or bronzing powder. Et voilà!

www.bourjois.ca

editor’s letter

THIS ISSUE’S HIGHLIGHTS

issue and the stories inside, as well as what stories you’d like to see in upcoming issues. I also see it as a forum – a place for you to bring up topics and issues that are relevant to you and that will engage your fellow BAs in discussion. Many of you have written great letters already, so keep them coming! In each issue, we’ll choose the best letter of the month, and that reader will win a bag of beauty loot. What’s a better incentive than that!? Wishing you all a safe and happy holiday from the team at Cosmetics! Yours in beauty,

Kristen Vinakmens Editor-in-Chief, Cosmetics Magazine Kristen.Vinakmens@cosmetics.rogers.com

The art of fragrance gift-giving

p. 58

Get your glitter on with sparkly makeup

p. 20

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

Expert tips for perfect brows

p. 42

PHOTO BY 2012-13 FALL-WINTER CHANEL READY-TO-WEAR SHOW BACKSTAGE, MAKEUP PETER PHILIPS © CHANEL 2012. PHOTOS VINCENT LAPPARTIENT; EDITOR PHOTO, ADAM MOCO

he holiday rush: it can be the most exciting (if not stressful!) time of the year. But there’s no question it’s also your busiest time, too, what with the hordes of bewildered teens and husbands wandering the beauty department of your stores in search of the perfect gift for their moms, wives, grandmothers and daughters. Many of them are probably looking for fragrances, which can be one of the hardest gifts to buy, especially if you don’t know what you’re looking for. So on page 58, in “Common Scents,” we offer up expert tips to help your customer navigate the fragrance section to find the perfect holiday gift. We give suggestions for fragrances that will work as gifts for all members of the family, just in case your client comes in without a clue what to buy. There’s also advice on how to build a fragrance wardrobe based on mood and occasion – perfect for the fragrance connoisseur who can’t wait to add another scent to their collection. All those holiday parties can take a toll on your complexion, especially around the eyes, where late nights out inevitably show the next day. On page 62, we’ve got the scoop on the latest products and treatments for every eye ailment, from undereye circles to crow’s feet and puffiness. And in our anti-aging feature, “Magic in the Makeup” on page 48, we uncover expert tricks to defy age with makeup. They’re techniques that work for everyone – regardless of age – to help you look fresh on days when you’re not feeling it. The biggest news in beauty these days is brows, and as it turns out, well-groomed, perfectly shaped arches are the ultimate key to looking younger. Our guide to getting great eyebrows, “High Brow” on page 42, gives you a step-by-step on achieving the perfect arch, tips for tweezing and grooming, as well as highlights some of the best new brow products. It still amazes me what a simple brow reshaping can do to one’s face: it’s like a mini makeover! With the last two issues of Cosmetics, we’ve introduced “Your Say,” a page where we ask for your thoughts on the

THE BAY, CANADA’S MOST APPRECIATED BEAUTY EXPERTS

The Bay Beauty Mentor

Marco Mazzuca

Fragrance Advisor, Women’s Fragrance (Representing Coty, Quadrant and Dior) The Bay, Yorkdale // 11 years of beauty experience // Email address: beautymentor@hbc.com

The Bay BEAUTY MENTOR AS CANADA’S PREMIERE BEAUTY DESTINATION, The Bay understands the vital role beauty

experts play in the Canadian beauty industry. Their passion, expertise and leadership are a key reason why customers develop loyalty to our stores. But starting a career in a beauty department can be overwhelming at times. That’s why we’ve introduced a very special program called THE BAY BEAUTY MENTOR. We’ve scoured the country in search of the very ﬁnest beauty experts to share their expertise and advice. If you long to ask a question to someone who has made a successful career in a Bay beauty department, just send him or her an email. To learn more about pursuing a career in beauty at The Bay, visit WWW.HBC.COM.

Best piece of advice I’ve ever received: ALWAYS REACH FOR THE STARS and never lose your shine.

What I tell m employees w ﬁrst start: TREAT EVER MER WITH AND CARE. Nev to judge – ever

omeone out he auty industry when

tant and a potential client. Listen to their needs and always ask questions.

don’t be afraid to engage y customers.

OU DON’T JUST CE: you our own busi-

entually develop t with customers.

The most memorable client I’ve ever had: I ONCE HELPED A LADY who seemed to be very impressed with my expertise on fragrance. Not only did she leave with a bottle, but the next day, she had written about me on her blog and raved about the service she had received at The Bay Yorkdale. She told her followers to only buy fragrance from me, because

of the knowledge I had. I still have a copy of the webpage! Feel free to reach out to me at any time, regardless of the question. Email me at beautymentor@hbc.com.

your say Last month, you recognized the ever-changing beauty landscape and took a trip down memory lane in the world of Cosmetics.

Here’s how you responded to our September/October 2012 issue: READER OF THE MONTH I HAVE TO LET YOU KNOW HOW MUCH I APPRECIATE YOUR magazine. I have been working in the cosmetics industry for more than 20 years and have witnessed so many changes and accomplishments in our great industry. When I found your magazine, it began a love affair that has never ended! Cosmetics has changed over the years to keep on point with the way we gather our information. Our clients have also evolved and your magazine is always giving us great tips to help us grow, so we can meet their needs. Your editors and contributors really get what it’s like to work on the front lines and you always inspire me to be the best representative I can be, not only for the company that I work for, but as an ambassador for the industry. — Deb Litvenchuk, makeup artist for Lise Watier, Burlington, ON wins a beauty bag filled with products from Smashbox and Bourjois. I JUST WANTED TO TELL YOU HOW MUCH I ENJOYED THE September/October issue, especially the awesome “40 Years of Beauty” section. I thoroughly loved this remarkable, wellresearched piece and have fond memories of some of the launches and products featured. In order to go forward, it’s important to know where we’ve been as an industry, so thank you for this fab piece! — Anne Barton, Shoppers Drug Mart, Oshawa, ON

EVERY TWO MONTHS WHEN YOUR MAGAZINE comes to my department, I get super excited! Not

only does Cosmetics inform us on everything out there, whether we carry it in our store or not, it has great articles, too. At our location, we have some cashiers that fill in if we don’t have a Beauty Advisor available. Cosmetics magazine is a great way to keep them, as well as my part-timers, in the loop. We aren’t always privileged with receiving training from schools, because of availability in our area, so your magazine really fills in the gaps. — Stefanie Brown, Shoppers Drug Mart, Winnipeg, MB I REALLY APPRECIATED YOUR ARTICLE ON retinol. I have a few customers who often question

the need for it in their beauty routines as well as what kind of results it can really provide. Thanks to your article, I am able to pull out Cosmetics and ease their concerns while recommending some products, too. — Tiffany Neigel, Shoppers Drug Mart, Moose Jaw, SK

WRITE US&WIN! Got something to say? Have a great success story you’d like to share, or saw something you loved (or didn’t) in the magazine? Tell us what you think. Send your feedback to cosmeticsmag@cosmetics.rogers.com. Letters may be edited for length and clarity. If you’re chosen as our Reader of the Month, you could win a beauty bag filled with products from Lancôme, including the new fragrance La Vie Est Belle.

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

Shawn’s Training Tips

MAKEUP MEETS Shawn Hlowat zki

Award Winning National Trainer Smashbox Cosmetics in Canada

SKINCARE: NEW

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MORE THAN MEET YOUR Photo Finish Foundation Primer SPF 15 with Dermaxyl Complex | DEFIES AGING • Clinically proven to reduce wrinkles over time PRIMER = LESS CONCEALER’S • SPF 15 for broad spectrum protection DARK SPOTS!

NEW BFF!

Photo Finish HydratingThanks Foundation Primer | HYDRATES SKIN to advanced C-Phyte Introducing the first primer • Gives complexion a moisture quenches Complex,boost; this primer instantlyskin and then seals in moisture dedicated to the delicate skin under • Helps reduce the lookbrightens of lines & pores and primes to smooth the eyes! We’ve taken our signature silky appearance of fine lines and pores, primer texture and infused it with 10 Photo Finish Color Correcting Foundation while fading dark spots Primer and acnein Adjust | BANISHES REDNESS breakthrough benefits to address • Green-toned to reducemarks redness over time. For best results, everyday eye woes. Plus, it keeps • Contains vitamins A & be E, lemongrass, aloe, soybean concealer looking fresh all day. sure to use twice a day: under oil & orchid complex your makeup in the A.M and under KEY BENEFITS IN Photo Finish Color Correcting Foundation Primer in Blend | EVENS SKIN TONE your moisturizer in the P.M. JUST 8 WEEKS: • Apricot-toned to even out skin tone and counteract dark spots of women a oil & orchid complex • Contains vitamins A & 84% E, lemongrass, aloe,saw soybean

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Photo Finish Color Correcting Foundation Primer in Balance | BRIGHTENSappearance SKIN TONE of ﬁne lines in just 4 weeks! • Lavender-toned to brighten dull skin and wrinkles, 28% reduction • Contains vitamins A & •E, Reduces lemongrass, aloe, soybean oil & orchid complex dark spots

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INSIDER SECRETS REVEALED

Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primers are packed with good-for-your-skin ingredients and have the quality, texture and ﬁnish that make them a MUST for any client. They have 8 different types to suit all skin needs and are my ﬁrst choice when recommending a primer to my clients. When it comes to primers, no one beats Smashbox!

INSIDER SECRETS REVEALED Eric Hudd those puffy peepers with Say adios to#42 Pharmaprix Hydrating Under Eye box the Smash MontrealQuebec

Primer - no eye cream necessary! Just a dab under each eye instantly brightens, cools, and preps for a ﬂawless concealer application.

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Clinical test over 4 weeks - improvement of signs of aging - average equivalence obtained: 5 years. 2 In-vitro test on a. fos-aquae and l. ochroleuca extracts. Clinical self-assessment on 50 women over 4 weeks. % of women who saw result. 4 12 patents on PTP and 2 patents pending on the association of A. Flos Aquae and L. Ochroleuca

Only 20 % of signs of aging are inevitableâ&#x20AC;Ś 80 % can be visibly reduced.

BLUE THERAPY WRINKLES, DARK SPOTS, FIRMNESS

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AQUATIC LIFE FORMS, UNITED IN SYNERGY 2 Biotherm biologists have screened and selected 3 powerful aquatic life forms with remarkable characteristics : regenerative blue micro-algae A. fos aquae/Klamath, repairing golden macro-algae L. Ochroleuca, and Pure Thermal Plankton. A NEW ANTI-AGING POWER IS BORN This formula, concentrated in extracts of these 3 life forms, reduces the look of wrinkles, dark spots and lack of frmness. Proven effective on all types of skin. VISIBLE RESULTS AFTER 4 WEEKS 3 Smoother skin for 94 of women % More even complexion for 86 of women % Firmer skin for 82 of women %

Look deeper: www.biotherm.ca

FINE ARTS

Little-known fact: Every fashionable creation Karl Lagerfeld designs for Chanel is sketched using Shu Uemura eyeshadows – as can only be expected when you believe that to create art, you must work only with art. The Karl Lagerfeld For Shu Uemura collaboration eyeshadows in Smoky Velvet and Prestigious Bordeaux bear the distinctive fingerprints of Lagerfeld. Cases sport the hand-drawn cartoon girl dubbed “Mon Shu” which house powders whimsical and sublime in texture and colour. Rounding out the collection are lip and nail shades, UV Under Base, an eyelash curler and the pièce de resistance: flashy, graphic false eyelashes affixed with mini red sequins. Available for a limited time at Holt Renfrew for $20 to $98. –Emma Jarratt

beautyFLASH all in the family Aussie twin sisters Kim Devin and Zoë Kelly have spilled their family skincare secret across the world and it has its beauty-obsessed Canuck cousin buzzing. Their fourpiece product line, including an anti-aging cream, lip balm and post-wax soother, is inspired by the legacy of their late father, Dr. Roebuck, and tackles sensitive, “precious” skin. “We were both born with head to toe eczema and our physician parents couldn’t find any creams on the market to treat it that they liked,” says Kelly. “So they said ‘Let’s make it ourselves.” BPA, paraben and chemical free, the products make use of a small ingredient list comprised of natural, calming components, like vitamin E, rosehip oil and beeswax. The star product? “Pure, definitely,” they say in unison of the thick, super-moisturizing cream. “We’ve been using it for 30 years,” says Devin, “and we swear by it.” One look at the sisters Roebuck’s glowing, makeupfree skin and no convincing is necessary. Available exclusively at Murale for $19 to $60. –Jillian Vieira

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

SCENTS OF PLACE

Through six tailor-made fragrances, master designer Oscar de la Renta has given the world access to his most intimate memories. Essential Luxuries is a collection of six fragrances: Santo Domingo, Granada, Oriental Lace, Mi Corazón, Sargasso, and Coralina – each one a love song to the muses around the globe that have inspired him. Each fragrance is a variation on a floral bouquet. Citrus notes, ginger, honey, almond and a splash of cucumber ensure that each scent is as unique as the memory it is dedicated to. Available at select Holt Renfrew for $150 each. –E.J.

beauty flash COSMETICS HOTSEAT

heat seeker

L’Oréal Elnett has been the go-to hairspray for runway and red-carpet hairstylists the world over for decades. Now, the brand has improved upon its iconic ultrafine styling mist with L’Oréal Paris Elnett Styling Heat Spray, every woman’s answer to protecting tresses from HTT: Heating Tool Trauma. L’Oréal’s miracle ingredient, Xylose, is activated by heat to protect hair and hold a style in place for up to three days(!). It comes in three different formulas: Straight, Volume and Curls. Available at Shoppers Drug Mart and Rexall Pharmaplus for $10. –E.J.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF AERIN

IN BLOOM

Shiseido’s symbolic camellia flower gets the star treatment in the Camellia Compact to celebrate the brand’s formidable 140 years in the beauty industry. Symbolizing aspiration and modesty, the bloom has been Shiseido’s signature motif since 1915. The compact contains three multi-use shades of blushing powder in Rich Rose, Petal Pink, and Cool Platinum. Wear the velvety hues individually as blush or highlighter, or blend them together for a look that’s as fresh as a camellia. Available for a limited time at the Bay, Sears, Murale, and Shoppers Drug Mart for $38. –E.J.

Aerin Lauder,

founder & creative director, AERIN As the granddaughter of Estée Lauder, Aerin Lauder is beauty royalty. So it only makes sense that after twenty years honing the brand vision at Lauder, she would come up with her own beauty line. Enter AERIN, an edited line of multi-use makeup and seasonal colour collections. Here, Lauder speaks about her new endeavour. C: You infused the products with a lovely floral scent. What was the thinking behind that? AL: I loved the idea of flowers, and floral notes are something that have always been a part of me. When I launched Private Collection, the first one was Tuberose Gardenia and that flower note is part of the brand. C: Is the line based on your favourite, can’t-live-without products? AL: People were always asking me, ‘What’s inside your makeup bag?’ So I conceptualized this idea of an edited collection because we saw that women today were balancing many different things. We’re launching with seven essential products – [packaged] in a makeup bag that has a beautiful vintage batik pattern. C: Who do you see this line appealing to? AL: It’s not really for an age group – it’s for a state of mind. It’s for someone who wants style and luxury, femininity and modernity, who is interested in fashion, but still loves the idea of edit and focus. The whole idea was effortless beauty and style and this makes it very simple. AERIN Essentials Collection , $30 to $165, and Holiday Colour Collection, $34 to $78, available at Holt Renfrew. –Kristen Vinakmens

beauty finds

A gorgeous highlighter and silver sequined pouch? This set tops our gift-giving (and receiving) list. YSL Boréal Palette Polar Light, $74

This luxurious shadow adds intensity to any stare. Chanel Regard Signé De Chanel Harmonie du Soir, $68

Glitz & Glam Up the ante with one of these pairs of look-at-me lashes. Dior Grand Bal False Lashes in Gold Crystals, $28; Make Up For Ever Eyelashes, $17

Multidimensional sparkles give life to these statement-making, jewel tone polishes. Illamasqua Nail Varnish Duo in Glitterati, $25; Butter London Nail Lacquer in Fairy Cakes, $17; Essie Nail Lacquer in Leading Lady, $10

This glittery case houses an irridescent copper shadow that’s holiday-appropriate in its own right. Lancôme Petit Trésor Sparkling Color High Fidelity in Fil D’Argent, $39

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

Take the hard work out of getting perfectly symmetrical eyeliner with these flashy appliqués. Sephora Collection Deco Daze Glitter Eyeliner Appliqués, $10 for a pair

PHOTOS, STEPHEN FERRIE; TEXT, JILLIAN VIEIRA

Nothing says holiday quite like a bit of sparkle. Get your shine fix with one of these glittery confections

This loose, rose gold powder adheres flawlessly to the eye and offers a mother-of-pearl finish. Lancôme Les Paillettes Aux Yeux in À la Belle Étoile, $25

Unleash the power of gene science INNOVATION

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WHO IS GENE YOUTH FOR? For women of all ages, with aging, stressed or tired-looking skin. WHAT ARE THE KEY INGREDIENTS ?

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counter intelligence

EYE SPY

When a tossing-and-turning, sleepless night reads under your eyes, reaching for a tiny pot of eye cream can be the brightening, de-puffing miracle you need. Here, a look at the top-selling eye savers across the country. / by Jillian Vieira

RICHMOND, BC DARTMOUTH, NS

LETHBRIDGE, AB WINNIPEG, MB

BRAMPTON, ON

LONDON DRUGS IRONWOOD PLAZA, RICHMOND

StriVectin-SD Eye Concentrate for Wrinkles, $71 “Loved by Hollywood A-listers and consumers alike, our top-selling concentrate is a revved-up wrinkle fighter that minimizes the appearance of lines, dark circles and puffiness for visibly youthful eyes.” — Kristine Cryer, vice president of product development at StriVectin

SEARS LETHBRIDGE

HOLT RENFREW WINNIPEG

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye, $63

La Mer The Eye Concentrate, $205

“The cream helps to repair damage caused by daily environmental stresses and protects the sensitive skin around the eye. During the day, apply it before makeup to help diminish the look of dark circles, puffiness and fine lines.” — Derek Miller, Estée Lauder national makeup artist

“The Eye Concentrate is by far my favourite eye cream. It helps with dark circles and fine lines without irritating the eyes.” — Nicki Ledermann, Emmy Award-winning film and television makeup artist

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

REXALL HURONTARIO/ BOVAIRD, BRAMPTON

L’Oréal Paris RevitaLift Double Eye Lift, $28 “The real beauty about this product is that it provides instant results. As soon as you apply, it immediately awakens the eyes and tightens the skin. I love using this product on photo shoots for that exact reason!” — Eddie Malter, L’Oréal Paris official makeup artist

THE BAY, DARTMOUTH

Clinique All About Eyes, $62 “All About Eyes is a fantastic multi-tasking eye product that provides soothing relief and hydration to this delicate area. It’s like giving your eyes a little vacation from everything that irritates them!” — Sara Whittaker, director of education at Clinique Canada

INTRODUCING SHISEIDO EXPERT REVIEWS: A PRODUCT TRIAL 140 YEARS IN THE MAKING! To celebrate our 140th anniversary in 2012, Shiseido will be offering an exclusive opportunity to Canadian beauty consultants through Cosmetics Magazine all year long. Shiseido trusts your expertise. In each issue, you’ll be invited to write in for your chance to be one of 140 lucky beauty consultants selected to test and review a signature Shiseido product!

HERE ARE SOME TESTIMONIALS FROM THE 6th GIVEAWAY OF THE YEAR! Shiseido Perfect Refining Foundation “I don’t think I’ve ever tried a foundation and a brush that was so easy to apply well!” “It blends perfectly into a flawless finish that feels and looks just like your own skin, but even better!” “I love the luxurious feeling of the foundation. It spreads evenly and has a flawless finish. The brush is awesome, a great way to make sure I get the right amount of coverage and so soft!!”

“I have worked 21 years in the cosmetic dept. store. I have sold every line and tried a lot of products. This Shiseido foundation is by far an amazing product. Flawless coverage and smooth and silky texture gave me the radiant skin I longed for.” “Would love to be in your next ad, I am 47 years old and would like women my age to look and feel as good as I do using this product!”

NEW GIVEAWAY: SHISEIDO’S SECRET WEAPONS The key to ﬂawlessly applied makeup starts with a perfectly prepared canvas. Equip your beauty arsenal with three award-winning Shiseido secret weapons, each designed to make your skin and lashes look better than ever with industry leading technology, innovative formulas and revolutionary ingredients.

#1 SHISEIDO REFINING

#2 SHISEIDO

until perfectly absorbed. This #1 secret will even out skin tone and skin texture. It also helps your foundation last longer and gives your skin a radiant look.

this perfectly designed tool, used prior to the application of your favourite Shiseido Mascara. Press lashes lightly at the roots, in the middle and at the end by twisting your wrist.

#3 SHISEIDO NOURISHING EYELASH CURLER MASCARA BASE Apply a pearl on each cheek and blend Give a natural curl to your lashes with Add unprecedented length and volume MAKEUP PRIMER

to your ﬂawlessly curled lashes with this cult favourite Nourishing Mascara Base. It provides an elegant, glossy ﬁnish, repairs your lashes all day long and can be worn on its own, or under your favourite Shiseido Mascara!

Shiseido wants you to experience a new level of perfection in your beauty routine, so we’re inviting 140 beauty consultants to write in to receive all three of Shiseido’s Secret Weapons! To receive your products, send an e-mail to: cosmeticsmag@cosmetics.rogers.com or fax Cosmetics Magazine at 416-764-1704 and indicate “Shiseido’s Secret Weapons” in the subject line.

ask a doctor

DRY SPELL

Dr. Frank Lista gives advice on combating seasonal dry skin

What happens to our skin when the weather turns cold? A: When temperatures drop and central heating is cranked up, skin suffers because of the lack of moisture. Cold air means dry air, and electric heating makes things even worse. Low humidity levels deprive the skin’s outer layer – the stratum corneum – of moisture. This outer layer – made up of dead skin cells and natural oils – is responsible for holding and retaining water in the skin. It pulls water from both the external environment and the lower levels of the skin. With a lack of water in the stratum corneum, skin dries out and shrinks, which can lead to cracking, flaking and redness. The cracks permit even more water to escape from the skin, and allow irritating substances and germs to penetrate the underlying living cells. Q: What factors contribute to skin dryness? A: Along with low humidity levels in the external environment, cold winter winds often rid the skin of remaining moisture. Harsh, drying cleansers and soaps can strip the skin of its lipids and, when used with very hot water, can make your skin quite dry. A failure to exfoliate regularly will keep dry and dead skin cells on the surface of the skin.

Q: What changes should we make to a skincare routine when the weather turns cold? A: Start by using a richer moisturizer that contains both humectants, such as hyaluronic acid (to draw water from the lower levels of the skin) and occlusives, such as any kind of seed

November 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

oil or botanical extract (to help lock moisture in). But moisturization alone is not enough: you must exfoliate regularly to remove the build-up of dead skin cells. When it comes to cleansing, make sure that you wash your skin with only lukewarm water, as hot water will dry the skin out further. Q: What do you recommend when it comes to exfoliating? A: Exfoliation is incredibly important in combating dry skin. We recommend that you perform an at-home exfoliation treatment at least once a week. When looking for an exfoliating cleanser or scrub, make sure that it contains natural fruit enzymes, such as papaya or apricot extract. These enzymes naturally and gently remove dead and dull skin cells as well as clear dirt and debris from pores. In a daily exfoliation regime, look for products containing glycolic, salicylic and alpha hydroxy acids. These acids will also help with the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and acne. Retinoids, too, help with exfoliation at the same time as they promote cell turnover.

Q: Are there any lifestyle changes we can make to deal with dry skin? A: Install a humidifier in your home or the room in which you spend the most time, such as your bedroom. Set the humidity level to 30 – this will help your skin retain normal moisture levels. Don’t shower with hot water; only use lukewarm water and pat your skin dry with a towel afterwards (don’t rub!) Dr. Frank Lista, M.D., F.R.C.S.C., Exfoliate regularly within your daily plastic surgeon, is the founder skincare regime, and do a deep exfoand medical director of The Plastic liation treatment once a week with a Surgery Clinic (theplasticsurfruit-based enzyme scrub. Get regular geryclinic.com), which has created the glycolic or salicylic peel treatments, Miracle 10 line of clinical anti-aging skincare like the Miracle 10 Peel, every three to products. For more info, visit: miracle10.com four weeks.

DEHYDRATED SKIN?

AQUALIA THERMAL 48H Fortifying and Soothing Hydrating Care, even for sensitive skin. 1. I SEE Women and men of all ages, with symptoms of dehydrated skin: tightness, fine lines, loss of suppleness and a hydrometer score of less than 40% hydration.

2. I QUESTION Do you feel your skin tugging on a daily basis or after you take your shower? Do you feel skin discomforts and tightness? Does your skin get more sensitive with the exposure during the day of external aggressions and/or stress?

3. I EXPLAIN Pollution, climate variations, inappropriate cosmetics and stress increase skin’s sensitivity and dehydration. When it lacks water and minerals, skin renews itself less quickly; its structure becomes disorganized and allows more water to escape. At the surface, dehydration marks appear. Skin is weakened.

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Choose between Aqualia Thermal Rich, Light, Aqua-Gel or Mineral Balm

• Enriched with Vichy Thermal Spa Water, containing more than 15 rare minerals that are soothing, fortifying and regenerating • Tested under dermatological control and on sensitive skin • Hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic, paraben-free, non-greasy and non-sticky • Suitable for all ethnicities and skin types

100% PLEASURE OF USE Ultra comfortable textures adapted to all types of skin

ingredients 101

DEFENSIVE ACTION

How amino acid ergothioneine works to fight for your right to beautiful looking skin / by Heather Marrin HAVE YOU EVER LOOKED AT THE INGREDIENTS listed on the back of your skincare products and thought to yourself, “If I can’t pronounce it, there is no way I’m putting it on my face.” Well, if that has ever been the case it shouldn’t be with this tongue twister: amino acid ergothioneine. While the name may sound like something to steer clear of, it is something you likely consume on a daily basis, and for the sake of your skin, it wouldn’t hurt to ingest a little more. Naturally found in foods such as mushrooms, beans and oat bran, according to Dr. Nadine Pernodet, executive director of skin biology, research & development for Estée Lauder, adding ergothioneine to your skincare routine will help recharge your skin’s energy. A water-soluble amino acid of plant origin, ergothioneine helps the skin build its natural reserves of vitality and protection by supporting its natural mitochondrial function. While our skin naturally renews its cells, ergothioneine ensures that skin cells function optimally by increasing the rate that fatty acids (important sources of fuel) are being transferred into the mitochondria (skin cell powerhouses). This in turn helps our skin use oxygen more efficiently to produce more energy. In other words, ergothioneine is a supercharged antioxidant that provides a youthful energy that encourages the skin to protect and nourish itself. While many antioxidants share similar characteristics, ergothioneine is unique because it not only naturally targets areas of cellular damage, it can be stored to build up a reserve for future use, explains Pernodet. This becomes important when skin is under attack by environmental aggressors such as UV rays, pollution, or stress. While we usually get it from various types of foods that we consume daily, Pernodet says the skin needs as much as it can get to help build up

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

Ergothioneine is found naturally in foods such as oat bran and mushrooms

“

Ergothioneine is unique because it not only naturally targets areas of cellular damage, it can be stored to build up a reserve for future use…

”

this reserve to ensure the skin stays protected. Fit for any skin type because ergothioneine works as an integral part of our skin’s natural defense system, it’s especially beneficial as an anti-inflammatory or in combating signs of aging. Unlike some ingredients that react with the skin to create results, Pernodot suggests that ergothioneine is used not for its reactive properties, but applied topically to penetrate the surface layers of the skin and build up our natural reserves. To ensure your skin stays well protected and to maintain enough ergothioneine on reserve to battle your skin’s daily woes, try Estée Lauder’s Re-Nutriv range, as well as products from anti-aging skincare lines such as Cellex-C and Kinerase.

beauty deciphered

SMOOTH MOVES

Brush up on the latest haircare trend: treatment oils with an abundance of benefits / by Emma Jarratt

Essential oils and plant extracts hold an exotic allure when it comes to beauty treatments, especially in regards to hair. Argan oil, the hair elixir of the moment, has dominated the market and enjoyed a relatively competition-free honeymoon period. But that’s all about to change as the beauty industry widens its net in the hopes of finding the next “it” haircare ingredient. Here, we present a guide to the latest hair treatments that boast exotic oils from around the globe. THE PRODUCT Marc Anthony Repairing Macadamia Oil Treatment, $10 Available at Shoppers Drug Mart

L’Oréal Paris Precious Oils Color Radiance Treatment, $10 Available at Shoppers Drug Mart and Rexall PharmaPlus Bumble and bumble Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil, $50 Available at Sephora

Garnier Fructis Sleek & Shine Moroccan Argan Oil, $7

THE PROMISE

INGREDIENTS

HOW TO USE

WHO IT’S FOR

A fortifying formula that revives lacklustre hair by adding and helping retain moisture in the hair shaft and smoothing cuticle damage

Super lightweight macadamia oil that is absorbed quickly into the hair shaft and bamboo extract which contains a protein that helps lock in moisture.

Use before styling for protection against heat and after to smooth errant strands. The oil leaves no residue while helping to add shine to brittle strands.

The treatment is suitable for all hair types and the bamboo extract, high in silica, helps strengthen tresses.

Nourishes and protects colour-treated and highlighted hair, using a UVB protection formula to prevent dulling and fading

A blend of six floral extracts: lotus (to increase follicle longevity), chamomile (to boost shine), tiare (to protect dry hair), dog daisy (to boost and protect vibrancy), rose (to add moisture), and linseed (to nourish).

Use before shampooing to soften hair, as a styling aid to protect against heat tools, as a mask for extra nourishment, or as a midday touchup to tame frizz.

Colour-treated hair that needs extra moisture and added shine.

Softens, detangles, and strengthens hair against breakage, reduces frizz, tames flyaways and adds shine. Also includes a UVA and UVB filter to protect against sun and environmental damage

A mix of six oils: argan (to soften hair), coconut (to add shine), macadamia nut (for lightweight moisture), sweet almond (to stimulate growth), grapeseed (to encourage regeneration) and Tahitian Monoi extract (for deep conditioning).

Rub a dime-sized amount into palms and run hands through damp hair before styling. Use throughout the day to smooth flyaways and add shine.

All hair types, from fine and straight, to coarse and curly.

Smoothes, helps repair damage and boosts shine without leaving a greasy residue

Moroccan argan oil, for a vitamin E-infused shine that coats hair to lock in moisture to each strand.

Sleek & Shine can be used in the shower by mixing with your regular conditioning product, before or after styling, or as a 15-minute soak pre-shampoo for maximum hydration.

The treatment is for all hair types but should be used sparingly on thin hair to avoid weighing strands down.

Delivers intense moisture and shine and helps to undo hair damage caused from exposure to heat styling tools

Vitamin E and essential fatty acid-rich argan oil, derived from the fruit of the Moroccan argan tree to help repair damage.

Evenly spread the contents of one ampoule over scalp and hair. Leave on for one to three minutes and then rinse thoroughly; repeat once a week or as needed.

Perfect for all hair types that need a quick pickme-up and a boost of shine for dull tresses.

Available at Shoppers Drug Mart and Rexall PharmaPlus Josie Maran Argan Oil Self Heating Hair Treatment, $36 Available at Sephora

cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012

haircare 101

curly If you’re like most curlyhaired beauties, you probably curse your uncooperative, frizzy locks on the regular (read: every morning). Cosmetics spoke with Tony Masciangelo, Canadian editorial stylist for Nexxus, and got his top tips for taming your curly locks into submission. / by Jillian Vieira

cues Mind Your Length

Despite popular belief, curly-haired girls can sport a variety of lengths that’ll suit their finicky texture – from shoulder-length waves to a bouncy bob and even a close-cropped pixie. When going for this type of big chop, pay attention to your hairline if you have finer hair texture. Leaving it soft and slightly wispy will help it to look perfectly grown in. Also, opt for a layered cut, as “a hard line around the neckline or ears gives short, curly hair an aggressive, sometimes masculine look,” he says. continued on page 30

november 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

LUMINOUS, LUXURIOUS AND UNRIVALLED

8 WEEKS OF FADE-DEFYING COLOUR

15 couture blondes to choose from

ICONIC BLONDE Shade 9 – Hollywood for Claudia Schiffer

THE HAIRCOLOUR TOP COLOURISTS PREFER ■ LUMINOUS, LIT-FROM-WITHIN COLOUR ■ UNRIVALLED LIQUID GOLD CONDITIONER* ■ 100% GREY COVERAGE

® Toronto International Film Festival is a registered trademark of Toronto International Film Festival Inc. used under licence by L’Oréal Paris.

*2011 Consumer Usage and Attitude Study at-home haircolour products.

lorealparis.ca

haircare 101 MANAGE Your Wave

Good hair starts in the shower, which is why it’s important to invest in a line of strengthening hair products to help reinforce your breakage-prone curls. After shampooing, apply conditioner and comb out any tangles with a large-toothed comb and rinse. When you’re ready to towel off, blot your hair thoroughly, but steer clear of any more brushing as it could cause breakage to damp, weakened hair, says Masciangelo. From here, leave it to dry naturally for a beachy feel or diffuse slowly to finish with a more defined curl.

KEEP YOUR WASHES To a Minimum

Naturally curly hair is drier than other hair types, so stripping it with shampoo adds unnecessary stress to your strands. Besides, “your hair’s natural oils help produce mass at the root, creating more body and leaving the curls chunkier,” he says. Skip the suds at least every second day – you’ll notice a fuller, shinier head of hair.

GET A Go-To Style

On a morning when your hair falls limp no matter how many products you use, get yourself a backup plan, namely a foolproof style that’s a cinch to create. Start by loosely gathering all of your hair and securing into a ponytail just below the crown of the head. From there, “twist the ponytail roughly and pin it in place as a mass of disheveled curl,” advises Masciangelo. Top it with a thin, jeweled headband to create a voluminous shape and emphasize your enviable texture.

ACHIEVE Touchable Curls

WAVE WATCHERS Our product picks for keeping curls in tip-top shape

Marc Anthony Curl Enhancing Styling Foam, $10 Vitamin E and an amino acid complex star in this lightweight, shine-enhancing mousse that gives life and definition to curls.

Nexxus ProMend Split End Treatment Daily Shampoo, $10 and Binding Daily Conditioner, $15 This shower duo tackles split ends by binding them together with nourishing ingredients. The result is shiny, healthy-looking curls that stay strong in between cuts.

Sephora Collection Wide Tooth Comb, $5

Every curly–haired girl’s goal: definition without the crunch of a head doused in product. Masciangelo’s glossy hair how-to involves a combination of an oil-enhanced mousse and a leave-in treatment crème. After raking a dollop of mousse and a quarter-sized amount of treatment crème through wet hair, “twist pieces of hair with your fingers and diffuse with a blow-dryer,” he says. When the whole head is dry, gently shake out your hair for a natural, worked-in feel.

This indispensible tool for curly hair helps to detangle and smooth without the knotty agony.

FIND A Curly-Haired Idol

Think of these mini tubes as a curl pick-me-up. The strengthening formula helps repair and resurface the cuticles, while preventing future breakage to the hair.

When making an appointment at a salon, or approaching your everyday curly hair routine, find someone whose cut and curls emanate what you’re trying to achieve. Masciangelo’s pick for curly hair done right? Taylor Swift. “She’s really embraced her waves and used them to create a unique brand,” says Masciangelo. Swift’s stellar cut makes use of long layers and a blunt perimeter, which “opens up the option to either let the hair dry naturally or be set in big, glamorous waves,” he says. “Taylor’s hair is age-appropriate, but with a fresh maturity to it.”

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

Pantene Medium-Thick Hair Solutions 3-Minute Strengthening Ampoules, $6

New beauty All About Eyes / Fragrance Gift-Giving / Anti-Aging Makeup Tricks

The Packaging Like a miniature paint box, the black lacquerstyle case features a large panoramic mirror and is stamped with a gold Guerlain LIU symbol on the outside.

The Brushes Brush up on your calligraphy with two high-precision brushes: one for the eyes, featuring a double-foam tip (one rounded for eyeshadow and one pointed for eyeliner) and a second for the lips with soft bristles.

The Shades Be holiday-party-ready with two red lip shades (one in carmine and the other a blue-based red), three iridescent eyeshadows in bronze, copper and white, and matte black powder liner that can be used wet or dry.

Eastern Promises Part of the Guerlain holiday colour collection, the LIU Calligraphy Palette takes inspiration from the 1929 fragrance created by Jacques Guerlain, “an olfactory poem dedicated to femininity.” A tribute to the Asian heroine, Liu, from Puccini’s opera “Turandot,” the fragrance celebrates passion and true love. Guerlain creative director Olivier Echaudemaison paid homage to Liu in creating the collection, including the star palette, with its attention to detail and cues from the art of calligraphy and Asian beauty rituals. Guerlain LIU Eyes and Lips Calligraphy Palette, $80, available at selected Guerlain counters

cosmeticsmag.com / november 2012

beauty icon

Belle

DE JOUR

WITH ITS NEW FRAGRANCE, LA VIE EST BELLE, Lancôme took on a formidable task: to capture happiness in a bottle. Enlisting Julia Roberts as the scent’s face was certainly a good start. Known for her megawatt smile, Roberts was the perfect choice to evoke the joie de vivre at the heart of La Vie Est Belle (“life is beautiful”). As a spokeswoman for the brand for the last two years, the actress was initially mystified when Lancôme first approached her. “It always seemed a bit beyond me, like I wasn’t quite as sophisticated or elegant as I think of the Lancôme idea,” says Roberts. “For that, I think about Isabella Rossellini and how elegant and beautiful she is.” But it was Roberts’ downto-earth modesty and everywoman likeability (not to mention was saying, if they wanted to make a new fragrance that I would her supermodel looks) that interested Lancôme. “I realized it is represent, I would want to wear it,” she says. “[Lancôme] takes more about the everyday person who wants to make an invest- a lot of pride in what they are presenting and they included me ment in their products and have them work for them,” says in a way that I didn’t expect. They ask for my opinion about Roberts. “But it’s not the thing that rules their morning, [while] things. I just felt part of the creative team a little bit more than I trying to get out the door with kids and drive the carpool. It’s a had anticipated.” lot more accessible than I realized.” Roberts’ soulful beauty resonates throughout the fragrance, Which isn’t to say that La Vie Est Belle isn’t luxe; far from it, particularly in the form of the “smile” which is captured in its the scent was three years in the making and went through 5521 bottle. The brand looked through its archives and took inspiraversions. Lancôme enlisted three masters of French perfumery, tion from a 1949 bottle design entitled “Le sourire de cristal” Olivier Polge, Dominique Ropion and Anne Flipo to concoct La (the crystal smile) created by Lancôme artistic director George Vie Est Belle, which is composed of just 63 ingreDelhomme, which features a smile cut into glass to dients, 50% of which are natural (a rare undertaking capture a woman’s joie de vivre. It took more than today). Described as the first ever “tasty iris,” the a year to perfect the new flaçon with the curve blossom resonates throughout the scent in the form of a smile set in the centre of a crystal square. of the rare Florence Iris Pallida and iris aldehyde. Updated with a modern, feminine aesthetic, the Sambac jasmine, Tunisian orange blossom and bottle is adorned with a grey organza ribLancôme La Vie Est Indonesian patchouli illuminate and add depth to bon, symbolizing freedom. Belle Eau de Parfum the heart, while a sweet facet of vanilla, praline and And no one is freer in spirit, it seems, blackcurrant provide the fragrance’s “smile” and than Roberts herself: “I pretty much put it childlike innocence. It’s a radiant floral that Robout there – the true feelings I’m experiencing.” erts herself was involved in developing. “All along I A beautiful life indeed.

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

PHOTO: CARTER SMITH FOR LANCÔME 2012

Julia Roberts lends her exuberant charm to Lancôme’s new fragrance / by Kristen Vinakmens

11 TH ANNUAL COSMETICS OUTSTANDING SERVICE AWARDS

WE LOOK FORWARD TO SEEING YOU AT THE MOST EXCITING EVENT OF THE YEAR!

Again!

A SOLD OUT EVENT

This year the COSA Awards can be watched live! Just log onto our website at www.cosmeticsmag.com and watch it live the night of the event.

Royal York Hotel – Canadian Room, Toronto, Wednesday November 14, 2012. Call 416-764-1671 for info.

CURRENT COSA SPONSORS

TM|MC

C O S M É T I Q U E S

Presented By

MAGAZIne

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GOSH Cosmetics 22 Shade Eyeshadow Palette WHAT IT IS: An eyeshadow

palette with an eclectic range of colours ideal for turning daytime looks into something bold and festive WHAT’S INCLUDED: 22 shades, from coral and blue, pastel yellow and pink, to smoky browns and neutrals. Designed in a slim case with four mini applicators. WHO IT’S FOR: Eyeshadow-loving mavens looking for a compact-size palette of colours. PRICE: $40

Available November exclusively at Shoppers Drug Mart

Anna Sui Holiday Collection

NEW IN STORE:

MAKEUP by Christina Ciddio

WHAT IT IS: A collection of pink and rose makeup

hues for the lips, cheeks and eyes WHAT’S INCLUDED: A choice of a soft pink or bold set of fuchsia colours stashed in a soft black pouch that includes a cheek and mousse eye colour paired with a lip gloss; an eyeshadow combo of two moisture-rich pearlescent powders; five sparkling bold shades of polish, including navy and gleaming bronze; a shimmer powder with pearl and rose tints to enhance and brighten any skin tone. PRICE: $15 to $50

Available December at Sears, Murale and select Shoppers Drug Mart

Bobbi Brown Caviar & Oyster Collection WHAT IT IS: A classic, girly collection that plays up the eyes for both day and night and emphasizes the lips with high-impact shine WHAT’S INCLUDED: The Caviar & Oyster fold-out palette offers a range of textures to dazzle the eyes with eight shadows including shimmering pink, metallic plum and grey as well as a soft pink pearl highlight for the cheeks; five limited edition glosses including soft Pink Oyster and super-glossy Oyster; Black Pearl nail polish completes the look. PRICE: $21 to $87

Available November at Holt Renfrew and Murale

Clarins Collector Face & Eye Quartet Mineral Palettes WHAT IT IS: A limited edition red-carpet-ready face

powder and eyeshadow palette WHAT’S INCLUDED: The light gold Collector Face Palette, adorned with a design inspired by Ancient Greece, illuminates the skin for an all over radiant complexion; the Eye Quartet Mineral Palette featuring wet-to-dry formula shadows infused with pearl for a stay-all-day metallic finish. PRICE: $42 to $45

Available November at the Bay and Clarins counters

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

YSL Holiday Look 2012 WHAT IT IS: A frosty and daring limited edition collection of

Arctic-inspired tones that captivate like the Northern Lights WHAT’S INCLUDED: Two palettes encased in a silversequined pouch that pays homage to vintage Saint Laurent dresses: Boréal Arctic Night, a palette of icy, chromatic blues; Boréal Polar Light, a palette that illuminates the skin; new Faux Cils Shocking Mascara in burgundy; a glacial blue lip emphasizing Golden Gloss; Première Neige lacquer to add a snow-inspired sparkle to any nail colour. PRO TIPS: For couture-inspired eyes, use the Boréal

Guerlain Christmas Colour Collection 2012

Palette in Arctic Night: apply the smoky plum shade around the eyes and add frosty blue in the inner corners, or use midnight blue against the upper lash line and smoke it up to below the brow bone.

WHAT IT IS: A fierce line-up of bold-shine lip colours and

PRICE: $27 to $74

and craves bold and soft colours for a chic look this holiday.

Available November at Holt Renfrew, the Bay and select Murale and Sephora stores. *The Boréal Palette Polar Light is exclusive to the Bay

WHAT’S INCLUDED: LIU palette featuring two red lip colours with three iridescent shadows and a matte black that capture the art of Asian beauty rituals; hydrating lip shines in gold and plum; Météorites WULONG compact embossed with a gold mother-ofpearl rosette of six lustrous and matte shades that add radiance to the complexion.

illuminating powders with neutral and shimmery gold shadows inspired by Jacques Guerlain’s 1929 Orient-inspired fragrance, Liu WHO IT’S FOR: A woman who enjoys Asian myths, art and fashion

PRICE: $24 to $200

Available November at select Guerlain counters

Quo Holiday 2012 Collection WHAT IT IS: A gift-giving collection of glitzy palettes and

makeup sets WHAT’S INCLUDED: Quo’s Holiday collection has all your bases covered with 13 different palettes with options for face, lips and eyes: the Modesty Collection, a giant chest full of colours, boasts 52 shadows, 18 lip glosses, six portable lip pots, four blush shades, liquid liner and mascara; rounding out the roster are five different makeup brush sets and nail care kits. PRICE: $3 to $60

Available November exclusively at Shoppers Drug Mart

Clé de Peau Limited Edition Palette for Voyage WHAT IT IS: A compact travel case of sophisticated must-have

beauty items that will transport your beauty routine to anywhere you are WHAT’S INCLUDED: Encased in a navy mini suitcase, the palette comes with an eye colour quad of soft neutral tones and gold sheen to add depth to the eyes; a light pink blush to boost the skin tone; a brown powder duo that can be used as liner or for brows; a mini lengthening, volumizing and curling mascara and a mini rose pink moisturizing lipstick. WHO IT’S FOR: Glamorous globetrotters looking for a chic, all-in-one palette. PRICE: $180

Available November at Holt Renfrew and Ogilvy

cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER

2012

Make Up For Ever Holodiam Collection WHAT IT IS: A super gradient limited edition shimmer collection

of glamorous multi-dimensional powders and gold glitter eyelashes WHAT’S INCLUDED: Holodiam #2, a berry twist of three tones that add vibrancy to the lids; Holodiam #3, a pearly highlight perfect for emphasizing the brow bone and corners of eyes; Faux Lash falsies with gold shimmer accents to finish the look. PRO TIP: Apply Holodiam powders wet or dry using either a brush, or sponge applicator for an intense shine. PRICE: $17 to $28

Available November at Sephora and Make Up For Ever boutiques

Chanel Éclats du Soir Christmas Collection WHAT IT IS: A dreamy collection of gold and

bronze evening makeup inspired by Chanel’s rouge noir WHAT’S INCLUDED: The Harmonie Du Soir palette, a mix of plum and rose-hued shadows paired with bronze and gold for a glistening holiday eye look; Stylo Yeux Waterproof eye pencil in Grenat, a burgundy-red with hints of copper; Star Dust blush, to add a touch of pink radiance to the cheeks; the vixenish deep plum-black Rouge Allure Velvet in L’impatiente or the more innocent delicate pink Chanel gloss in Allégorie; bold blackred nail varnish in Malice finishes the look.

Yves Rocher Ultra-Colours Holiday 2012 WHAT IT IS: A luminous and festive collection of party-going

favourites to complete your holiday look WHAT’S INCLUDED: Kohl duos to line and define the eyes; a mini matte eyeshadow palette to contrast gleaming eye pencils in Indigo and Shimmering Gold; Powder Illuminating Pearls that add radiance to the complexion with chestnut extract; soft textured lip glosses in Sparkling Gold, Pomegranate or Cashmere Pink; chestnut extract-infused Sparkle Cream to add glow to the body.

PRICE: $27 to $68

PRICE: $3 to $14

Available now at Chanel beauty counters

Available November at Yves Rocher locations

Le Volume de Chanel Mascara WHAT IT IS: An intense mascara with a patented “snowflake”

brush design that uses long bristles to disperse formula, and short bristles to magnify and separate lashes. The precise application leaves lashes bigger, brighter and defined with amplified volumizing effects KEY INGREDIENTS: Natural waxes emphasize volume and refine

texture; natural Acacia gum quickly dries and allows the formula to adhere to lashes, which allows for customizable levels of volume. PRICE: $36

Available exclusively at the Bay for one month starting November 16; to roll out at all other Chanel beauty counters thereafter

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

Essie Winter 2012 Nail Collection WHAT IT IS: A collection of intense hues for leading ladies

everywhere that founder Essie Weingarten describes as “one part Queen Elizabeth and two parts Duchess of Cambridge.” WHAT’S INCLUDED: Six fun shades including luxurious vermillion, scarlet and cobalt tones with quirky names including the regal red She’s Pampered and the turquoise Where’s My Chauffeur? PRICE: $10

Available November at drugstores and mass retailers

Clinique Chubby Stick Shadow Tint for Eyes WHAT IT IS: A portable shadow crayon for the eyes – Clinique’s

famous Chubby Stick – that you apply with just a swipe across the lids WHO IT’S FOR: Those looking for easy, on-the-go application of sheer, long-wearing eyeshadow. THE BENEFITS: The shadow is buildable throughout the day to

transition you into nighttime wear; available in 12 shades from Bountiful Beige, Pink and Plenty, to Lavish Lilac, which you can mix and match to create your own customized look.

Smashbox Studio Pop Holiday 2012

PRO TIP: Global colour artist for Clinique, Jenna Menard, suggests applying Lavish Lilac all over the lid with Fuller Fig as a wide liner close to the lashes for a fresh fall-inspired look.

WHAT IT IS: A glamorous collection of individual eye, cheek and lip sets featuring Smashbox’s biggest hits

Available November at Clinique counters

WHAT’S INCLUDED: The Studio Pop eye palette, with a range of 16 eyeshadows from frosty white to emerald, four cream liners and a travel-size Full Exposure Mascara; Studio Pop For Eyes Kit comes equipped with eyeliner minis in Graphite, Bronze Citrine, Antique Gold and Imperial to brighten and define eyes; packaged in a keepsake tin, the Glossy Lip Kit features five lip-enhancing glosses; the limited edition Studio Pop Blockbuster Kit includes the best of all worlds from eyes to cheeks. PRICE: $32 to $68

Available now at Shoppers Drug Mart, Murale and Sephora. *Studio Pop Blockbuster is exclusive to Murale and Shoppers Drug Mart

PRICE: $19

Guerlain Orchidée Impériale White New Generation

Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Overnight Hydrating Masque

WHAT IT IS: A brightening serum formulated

WHAT IT IS: A leave-on mask that hydrates the

with white orchid extract to tackle hyperpigmentation and signs of aging

skin while you sleep, leaving it hydrated and youthful looking, while increasing the skin’s ability to retain water

THE BENEFITS: This soothing serum smoothes

wrinkles and fine lines, leaving the skin transparent and youthful without irritating sensitive complexions. KEY INGREDIENTS: White orchid extract boosts cellular activity, targets pigmentation, reduces flaws and soothes while regenerating and hydrating the skin. PRICE: $505

Available November at select Guerlain counters

KEY INGREDIENTS:

Ophiopogon Japonicus extract increases hydration; Imperata Cylindrica, a waterretaining plant, balances and hydrates the skin; fragmented hyaluronic acid and glycerin retain moisture in the skin. THE BENEFITS: The mask instantly boosts hydration

in the skin for up to 24 hours and works best when accompanied by Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Moisturizer. Hydrating the skin helps prevent premature signs of aging and minimizes existing lines. PRICE: $36

NEW IN STORE

Available December at Kiehl’s stores and counters

SKINCARE by Christina Ciddio

Vichy ProEVEN BB Cream SPF 20 WHAT IT IS: A skin-correcting beauty

balm with broad-spectrum UV protection that conceals uneven skin tone, adds a flawless dewy finish and reduces the appearance of lines and pores KEY INGREDIENTS: Vitamins Cg and E

Skin Authority Resurfacing Accelerator WHAT IT IS: An exfoliating gel that

increases cell turnover to improve skin that is rough, dry and damaged from sun, scarring and acne WHO IT’S FOR: The Resurfacing Accelerator is ideal for all skin types, especially those who are looking to treat signs of aging such as lines and wrinkles and to improve skin texture and hyperpigmentation. KEY INGREDIENTS: Glycolic acid exfoliates and reduces sebum; Canadian willowherb extract aids in decreasing inflammation and irritation while killing acne bacteria; allantoin repairs dehydrated skin while soothing irritated areas. PRICE: $69

Available now exclusively at Murale

NOVEMBER / cosmeticsmag.com

fight free radicals with their antioxidant properties; hyaluronic acid hydrates and smoothes the skin’s texture; glycerin nourishes, while a special complex made up of polyglycerins that absorb moisture and oleothicones that lock it in, leave skin plump while allowing it to breathe. THE BENEFITS: Skin is left

flawless and refined without any heavy residue. This noncomedogenic, hypoallergenic formula is perfect for all skin types and comes in two universal shades for anyone looking to hide imperfections and improve their complexion. PRICE: $35

Available now at drugstores across Canada

Nuxe Crème Fraîche de Beauté Collection WHAT IT IS: A line created to soothe and hydrate sensitive skin

Dermalogica AGE Smart Multivitamin Power Serum

that is prone to itchiness, redness and dehydration KEY INGREDIENTS: Eight plant milks, glycerin and salicornia help retain water in the epidermis, which increases skin moisture and leaves it hydrated all day; almond and orange white flowers, aloe vera sap and allantoin, an anti-inflammatory, soften and smooth the skin.

WHAT IT IS: An antioxidant-rich serum

that fights signs of aging, reduces hyperpigmentation and smoothes the skin

WHAT’S INCLUDED: Three skin-specific moisturizing creams: a light version for oily/combination skin that uses rice grain powder to mattify; Suractivée that plumps and softens normal skin; Enrichie, designed for dry skin, is infused with vitamins, fatty acids and nourishing macadamia nut oil. Also included: a mask that refreshes sensitive skin and a serum that instantly hydrates and smoothes and can be used in the eye contour area.

KEY INGREDIENTS:

PRICE: $29 to $43

THE BENEFITS: Vitamins A, C and E enhance skin cell turnover and combat signs of aging such as fine lines and rough texture.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is a form of vitamin A that is non-irritating to the skin and fights early signs of aging while stimulating the production of collagen; polymitoyl hexapeptide-14 stimulates collagen production, which rejuvenates and plumps the skin.

Available now at the Bay, Shoppers Drug Mart, Murale, Ogilvy and Pharma Plus.

PRICE: $88

Available December at select spas and salons

Fresh Seaberry Moisturizing Face Oil WHAT IT IS: Omega-rich healing oil that quickly

absorbs and nourishes dehydrated skin, leaving a youthful and glowing appearance KEY INGREDIENTS: Antioxidant cranberry

seed oil smoothes and maintains elasticity, while grapeseed oil soothes; sweet almond oil restores the skin; camellia seed oil, rich in omega fatty acids, smoothes skin; and seaberry oil, rich in omegas 3, 6, 7 and 9 protect against free radical damage and improve elasticity and texture while boosting the skin’s healing process. THE BENEFITS: Two drops applied under your

moisturizer helps balance skin hydration levels. Used for generations as a natural cure for eczema, burns and dry skin, seaberry is Fresh co-founder Lev Glazman’s skin saviour; after diligently using the salve on a severe burn caused by boiling water when he was two years old, his skin is now scar-free.

Clinique Repairwear Uplifting Firming Cream SPF 15 WHAT IT IS: A broad-spectrum UVA/UVB day cream

that firms, re-texturizes and protects the skin WHO IT’S FOR: Designed for those with premature

signs of aging, rough skin texture and loss of elasticity. KEY INGREDIENTS: Mitostime strengthens the skin

and energizes tired cells; commipheroline is a molecule that plumps the skin; botanical extracts such as whey protein boost natural collagen and elastin production; ergothioneine is an amino acid that works with vitamins C and E to protect skin against environmental damage. PRICE: $71

Available now at all Clinique counters

PRICE: $58

Available now exclusively at Sephora stores

cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER

2012

beauty milestone

Cosmic

THING As the iconic Angel fragrance celebrates twenty years, Cosmetics catches up with its elusive visionary, Thierry Mugler

WHEN THIERRY MUGLER’S ANGEL CAME ON THE SCENE in 1992, it caused a stir of epic proportions in the fragrance world. Inspired by Mugler’s fascination with the cosmos and funfairs filled with cotton candy, the then-fashion designer sought to distill joyful childhood memories in scent form. The result was a fragrance that was good enough to eat: a patchouli-soaked blend of bergamot, vanilla, chocolate, praline and red berries, which launched a new olfactory category: the oriental gourmand. Perfumer Olivier Cresp created more than 600 versions over the course of a year to get the heady-sweet, blue-tinted fragrance just right. The biggest technological feat was packaging the scent in a never-before-seen, star-shaped bottle, and after two years and many iterations later, the glassmaker Verrieres Brosse realized Mugler’s shining emblem. Today, Angel remains a continual best-seller, while being as divisive as ever – you either love it or hate it. Here, the mysterious Mr. Mugler speaks about Angel’s enduring legacy.

To commemorate Angel’s 20th anniversary, Clarins released a limited edition “Precious Star” bottle showered in silver sequins and stamped with the Mugler anniversary logo. Precious Star, 25mL, $96, is available at the Bay, Ogilvy, Holt Renfrew, Murale and Shoppers Drug Mart.

C: Did you know that Angel would be so divisive? TM: Any time I launch a new fragrance, some love it and some hate it! But no one is indifferent to it. The ones who love it rapidly become totally addicted to it, [creating] a unique relationship between the brand and its users.

C: What would you like to do next, fragrance-wise? TM: Fragrances that move us, [that are] true emotional shocks for the senses, that bring something unknown and astonishing to the world of smells. Nothing can be revealed at the moment, but I am still very much involved in the development of my fragrances.

C: Did you ever imagine Angel would be so successful?

C: How do you define the Mugler philosophy of beauty?

TM: My wish was to create a fragrance that moved beyond all trends, a classic that would write a new chapter in a universal and timeless story. [To create] a fragrance with a personality rather than an ephemeral designer fragrance.

TM: I always favour the expressiveness of a face over the perfection of facial features. With a certain theatricality, a focus on play, on setting the stage, the possibility of being someone else and transforming to suit your fancies.

C: Angel went through many versions. Why was it so important that it be absolutely perfect?

C: Who is the “Angel woman”?

TM: The final olfactory result had to be well balanced (after tries with many different accords) and perfectly suit what I had in mind: Angel fragrance is inspired by my childhood memories, as well as celestial and glamorous images.

/ by Kristen Vinakmens

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

TM: Angel is personified by a bewitching woman, extremely feminine, sensual and carnal, like the fragrance itself. Partangel, part-demon, this woman is characterized by a blend of strength and fragility. She is a mysterious and fascinating heroine, a seductress who attracts with her mystery.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF CLARINS

In the first ad campaign for Angel, supermodel Estelle Lefébure was photographed standing on the edge of a Manhattan skyscraper.

Vendor SponSorS

CELEBRATING THE 2012 MEN’S AND WOMEN’S FRAGRANCE LAUNCHES OF THE YEAR

AWARD CATEGORIES

C O S M É T I Q U E S

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Best Niche Launch – Men’s or Women’s – under 10 stores Best Luxe Launch – Women’s – 10 – 50 Stores Best Luxe Launch – Men’s – 10 – 50 Stores Best Limited Launch – Women’s – 50 – 250 Stores Best Limited Launch – Men’s – 50 – 250 Stores Best Full Market Launch – Women’s – over 250 Stores Best Full Market Launch – Men’s – over 250 Stores Best Private Label/Direct Sell Launch – Men’s or Women’s

9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.

Best Print Media Editorial – Canadian Magazine/Newspapers Best Broadcast Media Editorial – Television and Web Hall of Fame Award – Women’s Hall of Fame Award – Men’s Lifetime Achievement Award Best Scent – Judge’s Choice Consumer’s Choice Award

If you launched a new fragrance in 2012 and would like to nominate it for the Canadian Fragrance Awards, please contact Jillian Vieira at 416-764-2498 An official nomination binder will be sent to your attention Nominations will be accepted in December 2012 Next Year’s Event: Thursday April 25, 2013 – Marriott Chateau Champlain Hotel, Montreal, Quebec. MEDIA SPONSORS

RETAIL SPONSORS TM|MC

SPONSORS

beauty school

high brow Transform your arches with these top tools, products and pro tips / by Jill Dunn

The arch arsenal To establish the best brow blueprint, you need the right tools: • Scissors First, use straight edge scissors to trim errant long hairs. “Brush your brows straight up with a spoolie brush or clean mascara wand and carefully snip any hairs that extend beyond the brow perimeter,” says Ashley Manias, national education director for Benefit Cosmetics. “Straight-edged scissors give the most accurate trim – curved blades aren’t as precise,” she adds. • Tweezers “Slant tip tweezers grip the hair and pull it out whole rather than breaking it off,” says Manias. A sharp, pinpoint tweezer is also a must for reaching ingrown hairs or really short, stubborn hairs. Stainless steel tweezers are the smartest choice because they can be sanitized more readily than enamel-covered blades.

november 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

Backstage at the Chanel Fall 2012 runway show.

• Brow powder and/or a brow pencil As a general rule with brow colour, if you’re blond or redheaded, your eyebrows should be one shade darker than your hair colour. If you have dark hair, your eyebrows should be one shade lighter (or if you have grey hairs creeping in, a soft taupe colour will help disguise them). When you fill in your brows, think about sketching, not drawing. Use short, feather-like strokes – nothing too heavy-handed. “This will make it look like individual hairs,” says Manias. Use a small, stiff and angled brow brush to work powder into the brows. Some prefer pencil – use it extra sharp to be able to draw in fine hairs that look the most realistic. And powders and pencils should always be matte – avoid sparkles or shimmer, as they look unrealistic. • A clear brow gel or wax This will help set the look. If you have really unruly or curly brows, a wax is the way to go. Use sparingly to avoid flaking.

2012-13 Fall-Winter CHANEL Ready-to-Wear Show Backstage, Makeup Peter Philips © CHANEL 2012. Photos Vincent Lappartient

Brows are big news this season: Chanel bedazzled theirs with a shield of sequins and pearls while Prada bleached models’ arches beyond the pale. These extreme brows may not be for every day, but there’s one thing for sure: Whether on the runway or in real life, brows are commanding more attention than ever. Indeed, the right brow shape can make you look fresher, more expressive and younger (it’s like a mini facelift!)

beauty school MASTER YOUR SHAPE “Brows are like a story: they should have a defined beginning, middle and end,” says Manias. The most desirable, youthful brows are full (there are even eyebrow hair transplants now available for those that have skimpy brows). “I recommend a professional shaping every four to six weeks, and daily tweezing, if at all possible, to stay on top of strays,” the pro adds. To determine where your brow begins and ends, hold a makeup brush vertically alongside your nose. Where it intersects with the inner corner of your brow, that’s where the brow should begin. Next, keep the base of the brush at your nostril and tilt it to a 45-degree angle to cross the outer part of the pupil – that’s where the arch should be. “Finally, angle it from your nostril toward the temple – this is where your eyebrow should end,” Manias explains. Your face shape also plays a part. “Brows should be proportional to your features and offset your face shape,” says Manias. For instance, if you have a long face, avoid super high arches and stick to thick, more modest arches. To balance a round face, brows should be elongated to give the illusion of a heart-shape. If your face is square, brows should have a softer, more rounded arch. To pluck with purpose, never look down – this can warp your perspective. “Stare straight ahead into a mirror, and step back to assess your shape after every few hairs to ensure you’re not overdoing it,” says Manias. Another tip: the tail of the brow should never be lower than the beginning of the brow. “This can make the eyes appear droopy,” she says.

TOP GROOMING GUIDELINES To get a painless pluck, opt to tweeze when hair is softest and most pliable, like right after a warm shower. “The steam in the shower opens up hair follicles, so brow hairs slide out,” the pro adds. Also, unless you’re an expert with tweezers, only pluck underneath and between brows. “Tweezing on top can make the arch look stunted,” says Manias. Tweeze one hair at a time to avoid overplucking. Post-waxing, threading or tweezing, treat the area with a mild exfoliating lotion or toner that contains salicylic or glycolic acid. “Tweezing, waxing and threading open up pores and can leave them susceptible to bacteria that cause breakouts. This step will alleviate this,” says Manias. Don’t ever tweeze or wax sunburned skin and if you use drugs or skin creams, like retinoids, that make skin hypersensitive, be extra cautious when you wax, thread or tweeze.

BEST

in brow

The best new products to get you groomed

Lancôme Modèle Sourcils Brow Groomer, $27. This subtly tinted gel is a perfect finishing touch – just one swipe keeps everything tidy. Tarte EmphasEYES Waterproof Amazonian Clay Brow Mousse, $36. If you have oilier skin, the clay-based mousse texture is great because it minimizes oil around the hair follicle to keep colour intact.

Sephora Collection Eyebrow Editor Complete Brow Kit, $23. Two powders define, while the wax tames wayward hairs. Mini-tools like tweezers, a spoolie brush and an angled brush are included for touch-ups on the go.

Quo Limited Edition Pretty Fierce Eyebrow Palette, $10. With two powder shadows to define brows and a wax to set, this is a really affordable allin-one brow kit. The wax is on the slick side, so a little goes a long way.

Make Up For Ever Aqua Brow Waterproof Eyebrow Corrector, $22. This gel-like formula requires a stiff angled brush to whittle the colour into brows. Sephora Double-Ended Tweezer, $24. A two-inone tweezer – one side slanted, the other, pointy – helps ensure no hair gets left behind.

cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012

Portrait of the Artist Dick Page, artistic director for Shiseido Makeup / by Kristen Vinakmens At first glance, with HIS face full of facial hair and penchant for wearing plaid shirts, you might mistake Dick Page for a lumberjack. But don’t let his outdoorsy look deceive you: this British makeup virtuoso known for his painterly approach to beauty is one of the leading makeup artists in the world. Growing up in Bristol, England, Page channeled his creativity into drawing and writing. But it wasn’t until he relocated to London in the late 1980s, and started doing his friends’ makeup for parties and clubs, that the industry’s top talents, including photographers Corinne Day and David Sims, took notice. Magazine editorial jobs soon followed, and Page steadily rose the ranks, becoming in demand by top designers Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs to create innovative makeup looks for their runways. He became a regular contributor to Allure, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar magazines and in 2007, Page was named Shiseido’s artistic director for makeup. Leading the brand’s vision for colour, Page dreams up new products and seasonal makeup collections. Here, Page speaks about his inspirations, favourite faces and his vision for Shiseido.

november 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

Who are your favourite faces to work on? The models Alana Zimmer, Raquel Zimmermann and Sui He among others, actresses like Isabella Rossellini and Catherine Zeta-Jones; I’m drawn to the faces themselves of course, but also their energy, intelligence and sense of self. How has your interest in photography and taking photographs influenced your approach to colour and makeup? It’s the concrete result of looking all the time, staying curious and engaged that feeds my colour work, sometimes in a direct way, sometimes a simple, even abstract idea of colour. It could be something I see in the city, on a beach or in the forest. What inspires you? Everything! I try to be receptive to what’s around me and often seek out certain pictures in galleries. I enjoy learning about photography, film and architecture. Also, anytime I travel somewhere new, it opens up all kinds of visual experiences. What are your makeup must-haves in your kit? The Shiseido Luminizing Satin Face Colours, Shimmering Cream Eye Colours and all the lipsticks, of course. What is your take on makeup trends? They’re the season’s end result of grouping various things together: red lips here, peach blush there, mathematics basically. I’m afraid I find the idea of trends reductive. It’s fun to see different takes on various styles, but luckily my work is temporary. That’s part of the fun; makeup is new and personal every time you apply it. What is your favourite runway beauty look ever? That’s a tough one. Maybe from one of the Helmut Lang shows in Paris in the nineties: A clean face with a dark eye of a deep bottle green, nuderose lips and fingernails painted with Wite-Out. Simple and very chic. You’ve worked with some of the most influential designers and photographers in the business. What have these experiences taught you? I learned the importance of collaboration, being part of a team, and how

beauty star

to help present the story of clothes using makeup. Most importantly, makeup is only as good as its context; everything and everyone needs to pull together.

PAGE’S TOP 3 MAKEUP TIPS

What would be your dream beauty product that you’d love to create? I’m working on it!

Find the best colour and texture match for foundation and concealer so you can be sure of a good result under any condition – airplane bathroom light for instance!

Where do you want to take Shiseido The Makeup, in terms of products and colour, in the next few years? I want to keep expanding the colour options and types of products we can offer to the customer whilst always keeping a healthy dose of surprise, and even fantasy, in the mix. What advice would you give someone who is just starting out in the beauty business? Work hard, be professional, punctual, kind and reliable. Practice until your technique is second nature and then you’ll be free to create. Technique can be learned, but you develop a style by being honest with yourself about what you love and what you can bring to whichever field of beauty you find yourself in.

Put together a basic makeup “wardrobe” of tried and trusted items and update them as you need to with a few fun items to keep things interesting. Enjoy your makeup. Often it’s just part of the daily routine, but don’t lose sight of the opportunities to play and accessorize with colour.

Dick’s Makeup MUST-HAVES

1 Shiseido Luminizing Satin Face Color is available in six shades, from pink orchid blush to shimmery gold highlighter, providing multidimensional cheek colour that lasts all day.

The highly-pigmented Shiseido Perfect Rouge Lipstick offers a longwearing, hydrating formula and is available in 25 shades, from bright fuchsia to subtle nude and cranberry red.

3 Apply Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Colour with your fingertips for a radiant, lustrous finish that lasts for 16 hours. The hydrating formula goes on smooth and comes in a rainbow of hues.

cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012

cover story

Ray

of Light

Pantene Beautiful Lengths ambassadress Lisa Ray on a joyful new chapter in her life

t’s been a good year for Lisa Ray. The Canadian actress just married the love of her life, received the Facing Cancer Together Award of Honour from Look Good Feel Better and was named ambassadress for Pantene Beautiful Lengths. A cancer survivor herself – she was diagnosed with multiple myeloma in 2009 and is currently in remission – the collaboration seemed a perfect one for Ray. A partnership with the Canadian Cancer Society, Beautiful Lengths started in 2008 and encourages Canadians to grow

november 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

and donate their hair to create wigs for women undergoing treatment for cancer. “It addresses something that I’ve personally experienced on an intimate basis: Losing your hair, losing your sense of identity and having your self-esteem compromised at a time that you need it boosted more than anything else,” says Ray, who starred in the Oscar-nominated film, Water. “If you feel good and [have] a positive outlook, I believe that healing will follow from there. It isn’t necessarily strictly about vanity; it’s about self esteem, it’s a symbol of hope, and I really

Photo: vincent lions photography

/ by Kristen Vinakmens

cover story believe that it can ultimately help the healing process for women with cancer.” The Beautiful Lengths program has received more than 40,000 hair donations from men, women and children across Canada to date. Further, one dollar from every purchase of a Pantene Beautiful Lengths product goes to the Canadian Cancer Society. “This campaign is so exciting and effective because it gives people a way of unlocking their ability to take action; I like to say it gives Canadians a way to make a tangible difference,” says Ray. When Ray was battling cancer, she couldn’t afford to buy a real-hair wig, which can cost into the thousands of dollars. As someone who has spent most of her life in the spotlight, both as a model and internationally-known actress, her cancer diagnosis and its subsequent effects on her appearance were a definite blow. “I used TIFF in 2009 to announce my cancer and go public and I ended up walking the red carpet when I was in the middle of my treatment,” says Ray. “I was bloated on steroids, my hair was just starting to fall out and it was not easy. As a woman, it’s facing your deepest fears. Also as a Southeast Asian woman, our sense of beauty is completely tied up with our hair.” But the impact on her looks was sometimes the least of her worries in dealing with cancer. “You’re facing huge transitions, challenges and changes at that time, not the least of which is also financial constraints,” she says. “When you’re undergoing treatment, you can’t work, and you’re not entirely sure when you’re going to be able to work again. And in my experience, you also want to put on a brave face and a persona of normalcy for the people around you. It isn’t always just about the cancer patient.” Today, Ray is in remission, or, as she calls it “the new normal” since hers is an incurable form of cancer. As she undergoes constant monitoring and drug therapy to manage the disease, “it’s somewhere in the periphery for me in terms of my awareness and the way that it’s informed my life,” says Ray. “A large part of it has been about this ability to use perspective to reframe experiences and that’s been one of the biggest learning curves. I reframed my entire life through that experience and it was painful on some days, while on other days you had to laugh. On some days I had great insight, so it’s not easy to just paint it with the same brush.” But things are looking up for the starlet, who has gotten

Finding joy was part of my healing process. It’s about tapping into the lighter side of life and just having fun and not taking myself too seriously...

”

GO A LONG WAY Pantene Pro-V Beautiful Lengths line helps strengthen hair against breakage and split ends, so hair can grow long and lush. The collection includes a strengthening shampoo, conditioner, two-in-one shampoo and conditioner, strengthening therapy mask and strengthen and smooth finishing crème. Like Pantene Canada on Facebook and Pantene will donate $1 for every Like to the Canadian Cancer Society. DID YOU KNOW? It takes eight ponytails to create one Pantene Beautiful Lengths real-hair wig.

back into acting and has optioned a novel, The Tiger’s Claw, that she’d like to co-produce into a film. Add to that her duties as host of Top Chef Canada, and work on writing a book, and she’s one busy lady. For Ray, “finding joy was part of my healing process. It’s about tapping into the lighter side of life and just having fun and not taking myself or anything too seriously, but really working from a place of passion.” Two things she’s also passionate about: advocacy for stemcell research (Ray herself underwent a stem-cell transplant that put her in remission) and fundraising efforts for research into multiple myeloma, for which she established the first research chair at Princess Margaret Hospital in Toronto. “There’s still a great determination to keep pressing forward towards a cure and towards fundraising,” says Ray. “I’m in the process of also working on establishing my own foundation, which will have interests in raising money for the Princess Margaret Hospital and for a few causes in India as well.” And now that her hair has grown back (albeit after an extremely rough in-between stage in which she chose to wear a wig), she’s relishing in it. “Every woman loves her hair. I like my makeup too, and I don’t make any apologies for it,” she says. “I enjoy enhancing myself in every way possible, and I just turned 40 this year, so I’m also very proud of that.” She credits Beautiful Lengths products with giving her naturally thick hair more body and also ensures she gets enough sleep to keep her skin looking great. SPF and red lipstick are also on her list of beauty staples. “My red lipstick – sometimes that’s what gets me through when I don’t have time to put on a full face of makeup and I’m going to an event,” says Ray. “A great slash of vibrant red lips, pull my hair back and wear something fabulous, and I’m ready to go.” Words to live by.

cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012

anti-aging makeup

Magic IN THE Makeup Turn back the clock with age-defying makeup tricks for face, eyes and lips that will make your customers look years younger / by Kristen Vinakmens

FACE Prep the skin. Before you even reach for foundation or concealer, ensure skin is thoroughly cleansed and hydrated, says Vanessa Jarman, Rimmel Canada’s official makeup artist. “Keeping your skin moisturized is the first step to a fresh, young appearance.” Moisturizer can help plump and even brighten the skin. COSMETICS PICKS: Philosophy Purity Made Simple Cleanser, $26; Clinique Moisture Surge Extended Thirst Relief, $59

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

TIP: Always apply moisturizer before foundation for a fresher look

Ace your base. “For a youthful glow and radiant complexion, look for foundations that include the word ‘illuminate’ in the name,” says Sarah Lucero, Stila celebrity makeup artist. “These products reflect light and make skin look brighter and younger. They add a lift to your complexion rather than lay flat on skin, which can look heavy and aging on older skin.” COSMETICS PICKS: Stila Illuminating Foundation, $50; Rimmel Lasting Finish 25HR Wear Foundation, $10

anti-aging makeup Less is more. Only apply foundation and concealer where needed, says Jarman. “A foundation applied too heavily will age the appearance of skin once it starts to settle into fine lines.” She recommends mixing foundation with moisturizer to create a light base, and to always start with foundation first. “Lightly build layers of foundation; this way, it looks natural, like its part of your skin,” says Lucero, who likes to use a foundation brush to buff the product into skin. Apply concealer after foundation, and again, only where needed, such as underneath the eyes or to cover sun or aging spots. “The idea behind makeup should be about highlighting your natural beauty, not masking it,” says Jarman. COSMETICS PICKS: CoverGirl & Olay Simply Ageless Concealer, $15; Shiseido

Foundation Brush, $33

Tread lightly with powder. “The number one product that tends to age any woman is heavy powder,” says Jarman, since, when applied too heavily, it can erase your natural glow and seep into fine lines and wrinkles. Apply powder lightly using a small blush or powder brush and only to key areas, such as around the nose and forehead, where oil tends to surface. That said, a little bit of oil isn’t necessarily a bad thing, says Jarman: “When your skin is slightly oily, it looks dewy and provides a beautiful glow.” COSMETICS PICKS: Smashbox Face & Body Brush #19, $68; Bobbi Brown Sheer Finish

TIP: Dab on concealer after your foundation and only where you need it.

TIP: Use a foundation brush to buff your base into the skin.

TIP: A light dusting of powder in the T-zone is all that’s needed.

Pressed Powder, $42

CHEEKS Choose your blush medium. Lucero recommends cream blushes for the most fresh-faced flush. “[Creams are] best for tinting your cheeks naturally,” she says. “They melt into your skin and look like they belong on your face, like it’s part of you.” Cream blush can also be a good option for more mature skin types, as it’s more moisturizing than powder. But whatever your medium, be sure to avoid heavy frost in your blush, as it can bring attention to large pores or uneven skin texture, says Lucero.

TIP: Cream blushes are great for drier, more mature skin types.

COSMETICS PICKS: Stila Convertible Color in Gerbera, $33; Revlon Cream Blush in

Rosy Glow, $12

TIP: Opt for peachy-pink blush shades that are light on shimmer.

Colour is key. Choose fresh pink and coral shades of blush, which help to create a young glow. Not only are they universally flattering, they mimic the naturally flushed look you get from taking a walk on a brisk day. Avoid blush in brown or earth tones, says Jarman, as they can look harsh and dated. COSMETICS PICKS: Rimmel Lasting Finish Blendable Powder Blush in Pink Rose, $6;

Nars Blush in Deep Throat, $32

Precise placement. Proper blush application can mystify even the most beautysavvy. Jarman recommends smiling, rather than sucking in your cheeks, to help ace your placement. “Apply your blush close to the apples to your cheeks, but slightly above and behind to give the effect of fullness to the face,” she says. Jarman prefers to use a small to medium-sized blush brush for meticulous application. And apply sparingly so you can build the colour as needed: “If you apply too much blush, it can look overwhelming or like a rash,” says Jarman.

TIP: A small to medium-sized blush brush gives you greater application control.

COSMETICS PICKS: Quo Professional Blush Brush, $40

cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012

anti-aging makeup EYES & BROWS Forgo the frost. Jarman says more mature women should avoid eyeshadows with too much sparkle or shimmer, since “they tend to look dated and highlight fine lines on and around the eye area.” She suggests opting for more matte finishes which suit all women and don’t emphasize troublesome areas. But, she says, don’t be afraid to choose shadows with a bit of sheen or satin finish. “Add a bit of sheen to your eyelid and then go into your crease with a more matte shadow to finish the eye off. It’s a beautiful and appropriate way to create dimension and elegance.” Lighten up. Your best bet when it comes to eyeshadow shades? Stick to creams, soft pinks, light greys or taupes to brighten the eye area, says Jarman. If you prefer to wear darker shades, the makeup artist recommends steering clear of dark pink or purple shades (which tend to bring out tiredness in the eye area) and applying your shadows before your foundation, so you can clean up any fallen product. “Bright under-eyes make the biggest difference when it comes to clean and fresh makeup.” When it comes to liner, think soft, rather than hard, precise lines that can look too harsh. Lucero suggests lining eyes with a light eyeshadow to define and enhance the eyes. “Think of sketching and shading, not drawing a hard line.” COSMETICS PICKS: Make Up For Ever Matte Eyeshadow in

Bisque, $23; MAC Eyeshadow in Shroom, $18

Arch support. Whether they’re overplucked or lack shape, sparse, poorly groomed brows can age the face. Jarman recommends avoiding pencils to fill in brows and opting instead for shadow that’s one or two shades lighter than your natural haircolour. “Penciled-on brows look harsh, usually too dark in colour and stand out too much – in a weird way,” she says. Work with what you have, says Jarman, by softly filling in any sparse areas rather than trying to overdraw the shape. “Make slight adjustments to your shape where needed, but try not to draw outside the lines too much.” COSMETICS PICKS: Benefit Cosmetics Brow Zings in Medium,

$35; Anastasia Mini Duo Angled Spooley Brush #7, $2

TIP: Stay on the bright side by choosing eyshadows in cream and soft pink shades.

“

“Penciled-on brows look harsh, usually too dark in colour and stand out too much,” says Vanessa Jarman, Rimmel Canada official makeup artist.

”

TIP: Choose shadow one to two shades lighter than your hair colour to fill in brows.

TIP: When wearing bright lip shades such as red, line lips first for staying power.

LIPS

Line and fill. If using a lipstick, especially a bold shade such as orange or red, line the lips and fill them in entirely before applying lipstick over top. This way, says Jarman, “you don’t have to be concerned about bleeding, or your lipstick running thin.” This is especially key for mature women, who may be concerned about lines around the mouth. COSMETICS PICKS: CoverGirl LipPerfection Lipliner

in Passion, $11; MAC Lipstick in Russian Red, $18

Colour Match. “Playing up the lips is a great way to brighten any face,” says Jarman. Again, as with cheeks, pink and coral shades look the most youthful, so whether you’re a gloss or lipstick fan, stick to lipcolours in those colour families. Avoid nude shades which can make the complexion look dull, and steer clear of too-dark lipcolours, which can look harsh and emphasize lips that may have thinned with age. “Enhance and bring out your favourite features and you will always look beautiful,” says Lucero. COSMETICS PICKS: Clarins Jolie Rouge in Petal Pink,

$27; Maybelline ColorSensational Lipstick in Coral Crush, $10

TIP: Fresh pink and coral lip colours look the most youthful.

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

YOU ARE INVITED TO ATTEND the Exclusive Clairol Hair Colour Training Program Join Luis Pacheco, a renowned colourist and Clairol Expert, for an in depth training session on colour theory, consultation, and correction. Luis brings 18 years of experience in colour, creating the most gorgeous hues and unforgettable blondes for his clients. He is the founder and owner of renowned Toronto salon Hair on the Avenue that has just celebrated its fifth anniversary. Luis and his team of talented colourists and stylists count many of Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top celebrities and television personalities among their clientele; including Emily Haynes, Feist, Juliette Lewis, Nelly Furtado and the Breakfast Television Toronto Crew.

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NEW IN STORE

FRAGRANCE by Christina Ciddio & Emma Jarratt

Chloé Bianca Solid Perfume Necklace A vibrant rose floral solid for her

Beyoncé Midnight Heat A sensual fruity-floral for her

Balenciaga Florabotanica

A sensory floral creation for her

NOTES:

Top: Peony, springtime freesia and lychee Heart: Rose, magnolia and lily of the valley Base: Amber and cedarwood

Top: Dragonfruit, starfruit and Armenian plum Heart: Purple mokara orchid, black tulip and peony Base: Warm amber, patchouli and sandalwood

A mysterious blend of vetiver, amber and caladum-leaf accords mixed with the freshness of rose, carnation and mint

FAST FACTS:

This fashion accessory captures the classic scent of Chloé in a solid perfume housed in a blush-toned enameled locket affixed to a delicate necklace. The faces of Chloé perfume embody the youthful and seductive Chloé woman: Imogen Poots, famous for her role in V for Vendetta and French model Camille Rowe-Pourcheresse, who’s been photographed by Karl Lagerfeld and Paolo Roversi, among others. Eau de Parfum Solid: $75 Available now at Sears and Holt Renfrew

FAST FACTS:

Midnight Heat is Beyoncé’s third fragrance since her debut launch in 2009, Heat. The print ad campaign was shot in New York City at the swanky Standard Hotel by renowned photographer Terry Richardson and features Beyoncé in a one-shoulder House of Deréon dress. Eau de Parfum: 30ml, $39; 50ml, $59 Available now at Sears and drugstores across Canada

FAST FACTS:

Florabotanica is a magical and imaginative fragrance inspired by Nicolas Ghesquière’s tale of an 18th century botanical garden filled with exotic and rare plants that capture the mystery of flowers and their potential to be dangerous. The tale speaks of an enchanting, mysterious young girl who Ghesquière imagined as Kristen Stewart. The actress embodies the beauty of Florabotanica with her edgy yet feminine demeanour. Eau de Parfum: 30ml, $63; 50ml, $90; 100ml, $115 Available now at the Bay, Holt Renfrew, Murale, Shoppers Drug Mart, Ogilvy and Sephora. *30ml exclusively available at Shoppers Drug Mart

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

NEW IN STORE

Marchesa Parfum D’Extase A light floral-fresh scent for her

Tom Ford Noir A spicy-oriental sensual fragrance for him

fragrance

Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme A passionate scent for her

NOTES:

Top: Iris, freesia and young violet leaves Heart: Night-blooming jasmine Base: Iris root, ambrox and musk

Top: Italian bergamot, verbena, caraway, baie rose and violet flower Heart: Madagascar black pepper and nutmeg Base: Amber, patchouli oil and vetiver oil

Top: Neroli, raspberry and tart green mandarin Heart: Jasmine and orange blossom Base: Vanilla and cream sandalwood

FAST FACTS:

The soft pink-hued juice is housed in a sleek glass bottle topped with a solid crimson and gold cap. French model Laetitia Casta shows off her Mediterranean sex appeal in the fairytale romance ad campaign shot by renowned photographer Mario Testino. The backdrop of the “romantic dream” takes place in a small southern Italian village with the sounds of “Città Vuota” by Mina playing in the background.

FAST FACTS:

This is fashion house Marchesa’s first fragrance and it is in collaboration with Sephora. The bottle was designed in collaboration with Vanessa Stevens + Company creative director, Malin Ericson. It features exotic raw quartz crystal that exudes the feminine elements of the Marchesa line. Eau de Parfum: 30ml, $72; 50ml, $102 Rollerball: $30 Available now exclusively at Sephora

FAST FACTS:

Designed in a smoky black bottle with ribbed sides, the rectangular shape has a “T” embossed on one side and an “F” on the other. Tom Ford currently has five private blend and six signature fragrances available in his beauty collection. Eau de Parfum: 50ml, $105 Available now at Holt Renfrew

Eau de Parfum: 25ml, $82; 50ml, $95; 100ml, $121 Body Lotion: 200ml, $59 Available now exclusively at the Bay; December at Holt Renfrew, Sephora, Murale, Shoppers Drug Mart and Sears

cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012

NEW IN STORE

fragrance

Biotherm Water Lovers Collection Les Eaux

HiM by Hanae Mori NOTES:

NOTES:

Eau Océane: Fresh aquatic floral Eau Pure: Aromatic sage and lime essential oils Eau Vitaminée: Citrus blend of orange and pink grapefruit Eau D’Énergie: Stimulating citrus mix featuring lemon and jasmine Eau de Paradis: Musky mix of red fruits including pomegranate, black currant and raspberry

Top: Oils of bergamot, mandarin oranges, grey pepper, violet leaves and cardamom seeds Heart: Cinnamon bark, Mediterranean fig wood and Tonka essence Base: Teak, white cedar, fir balsam, musk and amber

Top: Greengage plum, Diamond Jubilee apples and pruneau Heart: Renaissance roses, white carnations, Florentine pear, Sicilian bergamot and Calabrian lemons Base: Virginia cedar, Indian sandalwood and white grapefruit

A selection of travel-sized body sprays for her

FAST FACTS:

One dollar from every Les Eaux purchase will support Biotherm’s efforts with Mission Blue, a charity that strives to protect Antarctica’s Ross Sea, one of the last few pristine water ecosystems left in the world, which is home to 40 unique species. The packaging boasts whimsical, retro-inspired sea creature designs created by Swedish illustrator Ingela Peterson Arrhnenius. Eau de Toilette: 20ml, $15 Available now at Biotherm counters

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

A woodsy musk fragrance for him

CREED Acqua Fiorentina: The Encore A floral and fruity pairing in a jubilee fragrance for her

FAST FACTS:

The fragrance was officially presented to His Imperial Majesty, the Emperor of Japan (thus inspiring the name HiM), and is the first new Hanae Mori men’s fragrance in 15 years. The scent is inspired by the masculine elements of nature, refined to complement a tailored suit or the best cut blue jeans.

CREED was inspired by the Royal Diamond Jubilee year. It is re-released as the original Acqua Fiorentina with the addition of Jubilee apple top notes to the fragrance. Formerly unavailable in the U.S., Acqua Fiorentina is the first CREED fragrance released directly from Oliver Creed in Paris to America.

Eau de Toilette: 50ml, $60

Eau de Parfum: 75ml, $275

Available now at Holt Renfrew

NEW IN STORE

Shiseido Zen Secret Bloom Eau de Parfum Intense

A mysterious Oriental fragrance for her

Boss Nuit pour Femme A sexy little black fragrance for her

Philosophy Living Grace A live-in-the-moment fragrance for her

NOTES:

Top: Pink pepper, mandarin, blue rose, grapefruit and bergamot Heart: Jasmine absolute, freesia, gardenia, Chinese rose and lotus flower Base: Patchouli, musk, black vanilla, Tonka bean, sandalwood and vetiver

Top: White peach and aldehydic accord Heart: Jasmine, white flowers and violet Base: Moss, warm wood and sandalwood

Top: Fresh neroli Heart: Lily of the valley Base: Warm musk

FAST FACTS:

The unique package design plays with light and line, creating infinity, depth and mystery to complement the Zen fragrance. Shiseido created the limited edition Eau de Parfum Intense to celebrate its 140th anniversary. Eau de Parfum: 50ml, $68 Available now at the Bay, Shoppers Drug Mart, Sears, Jean Coutu, Murale, London Drugs and Ogilvy

fragrance

FAST FACTS:

The fragrance is inspired by the timeless elegance of the little black dress and the confidence that comes from always being perfectly put together. Boss Nuit pour Femme was launched to complement the BOSS Black Womenswear Collection. Gwyneth Paltrow was chosen as the face of the fragrance, because she embodies all the characteristics of a strong, confident and successful woman.

With fresh, clean notes, Living Grace strives to bring balance to a womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lifestyle and keep her centred. The fragrance is a sensory experience that creates uplifting feelings of vibrancy, well-being, and clarity. Spray Fragrance: 15ml, $20; 60ml, $55 Available now at the Bay, Sephora and Shoppers Drug Mart. *15 ml exclusively available at Sephora

Eau de Parfum: 30ml, $60; 50ml, $77; 75ml, $98; Shower Gel: 200ml, $21; Body Lotion: 200ml, $54; Deodorant: 150ml, $41 Available December at the Bay and February at Sephora, Holt Renfrew and Sears

cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012

NEW IN STORE

fragrance

Calvin Klein Encounter

Hermès L’Ambre des Merveilles

Swarovski Edition

NOTES:

NOTES: A mysterious blend of oak, balsam of Peru, tears of Siam, amber accord, elemi, bitter orange and Indonesian pepper

Top: Clementine and redcurrant jelly Heart: Rose and gardenia Base: White musk and cedarwood

A seductive and intriguing fragrance for him Top: Mandarin, cardamom and rum Heart:: Pepper, Egyptian jasmine, patchouli and cognac Base: Agarwood, atlas cedarwood and musk FAST FACTS:

The fragrance is intended to evoke unapologetic masculinity. Encounter is inspired by the idea of tension and desire and is played out in a film-noir style ad campaign starring Alexander Skarsgård and Lara Stone. Eau de Toilette: 50ml, $67; 100ml, $87; Aftershave Lotion: 200ml, $65; Hair and Body Wash: 200ml, $34; Deodorant: 75g, $28 Available now at the Bay, Sears, Murale, Shoppers Drug Mart, Jean Coutu, and Sephora

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

A sultry amber fragrance for her

A glamour-filled fruity-floral for her NOTES:

FAST FACTS:

Amber is one of the oldest stones found in the world, created from a resin that hardens slowly over time and is often found encasing fossils and prehistoric insects. L’Ambre comes in the “wobblebottle” first used in the original Merveilles series. A wide ring of gold circles the bottle’s circumference, creating a magnifying glass effect.

Swarovski Edition is a rare, limited edition scent; the bottle is intended to become a collector’s item after the fragrance has been used. The bottle and scent were inspired by the red carpet at Cannes where Swarovski has dressed and accessorized celebrities for years.

Pure Perfume: 50ml, $120; 100ml, $165

Available now at the Bay

Available now online at Hermes.com

Eau de Toilette: 50ml, $76

NEW IN STORE

Yves Rocher So Elixir Purple

An intoxicating woody floral for her

Giorgio Armani Code Couture Edition A seductive fragrance for him

fragrance

Vince Camuto A sensual, floral chypre for her

NOTES:

Tuberose, vetiver, bergamot, benzoin and patchouli

Top: Bitter orange and bigarade Heart: Sambac jasmine Base: Honey vanilla

Top: Osmanthus nectar Heart: Bulgarian white rose, Tuscan leather and night-blooming jasmine Base: Patchouli, skin musk, vanilla and warm amber

FAST FACTS:

So Elixir Purple is intended to tap into the wearer’s power of seduction through combining intoxicating and magnetic scents. Heady tuberose evokes femininity and glamour, vetiver adds warmth, while patchouli gives a nod to the original So Elixir. Eau de Parfum: 50ml, $59; Bath and Shower Gel: 200ml, $20; Body Lotion: 200ml, $25 Available now at all Yves Rocher stores

FAST FACTS:

A limited edition take on the original Armani Code housed in a sleek collector’s item bottle adorned with tiny Swarovski crystals. While the fragrance follows the traditional hierarchy of top, heart and base notes, addictive orange blossom infuses the scent throughout. Eau de Parfum: 75ml, $120 Available now at the Bay

FAST FACTS:

This is the first fragrance from New York-based fashion footwear and lifestyle designer Vince Camuto. The Camuto family crest in delicate gold surrounds the cap, which is set atop a red-ribboned medallion on the façade of the faceted bottle. Eau de Parfum: 50ml, $72; 100ml, $92 Available now at the Bay

cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012

holiday fragrance

Common Scents A how-to guide for helping customers master the art of fragrance gifting / by Liz Bruckner

Choosing fragrance as a gift can be a tricky undertaking: On one hand, what scent aficionado wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t love unwrapping a beautiful bottle of their favourite perfume or cologne during a gift exchange? On the other, if you choose the wrong scent, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s likely to go unworn, collecting dust on a bureau for years to come. So how can customers select something so based on individual preferences for those near and dear? Patty Cooper, national education manager for LVMH Fragrance Brands, and Marian Bendeth, global fragrance expert and owner of Toronto-based Sixth Scents, offer this expert advice for helping purchasers navigate the fragrance floor.

november 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

holiday fragrance Put personal preferences aside Since scent preference is such an intensely personal decision, it’s paramount that gifters tune out their own impressions of scents. “It’s so important to remember that you should never buy for someone something you would wear yourself,” says Bendeth. Your best bet: Encourage shoppers to make note of the fragrances their recipient already wears, and to use that as a starting point in the search for the perfect scent.

Know their scent type Regardless of what fragrance camp the gift recipient gravitates towards (musky, floral, fruity, etc.), when in doubt, encourage customers to stay within that same category and opt for scents with similar notes. Is he or she still waffling? Consider suggesting a sampler box – offered by many major perfumery houses – which comes complete with multiple vials of trial-size scents.

Think outside the box If a customer divulges that their recipient prefers a minimalistic approach to fragrance, a perfume’s lighter and brighter sister formula could be their best option. Steer them toward an eau de toilette for a slightly less concentrated scent, or in the direction of eau de cologne, eau fraiche or even scented body washes for a much more subdued aroma.

Bet on a winner With the exception of a few anomalies, bestselling fragrances are often crowd-pleasers for good reason. Should the recipient be a fragrance newbie without a preferred perfume, consider suggesting scents that continually garner mass praise. Chances are good that one of these options will result in a fragrant hit.

Look to prestige brands When in doubt about scents, encourage your customer to pay attention to their recipient’s fashion sense, says Cooper. “If someone is a fan of an established luxury brand but can’t afford pieces from that line, being gifted with a fragrance inspired by their favourite fashion house is a great way to give them a small piece of the brand,” she says.

FRAGRANCE

for all

Massages, socks and scarves are well and good, but when customers are after something luxurious, long-lasting and specific to their loved one, help direct them with these fragrance selecting tips.

FOR MOM

FOR MOM: Consider encouraging your gifter to dabble with a spritz that’s slightly out of the box. Bright and warm notes of jasmine, mandarin or bergamot can prove to be very uplifting, while raspberry, fig leaves and caramel convey a feminine, playful effect. Try: Dior Pure Poison Eau de Parfum or Thierry Mugler Womanity Eau de Parfum

FOR DAD

FOR DAD: Classics are almost always a safe bet for dads, so choose scents that are fresh and masculine. Look for fragrances with woodsy, rich notes set off by cool cardamom, rosemary or even patchouli. Try: Dolce & Gabbana The One Sport Eau de Toilette or Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Eau de Toilette FOR GRANDMA: The only thing Grandma would love more than real flowers is a fragrance that gently evokes their scent. Direct customers to bottles with the ageless aromas of freesia, amber or violet, or consider introducing a subtly scented fragrance with rich notes of flower honey, tactile woods or amber. Try: Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Jasminora Eau FOR GRANDMA de Toilette or Givenchy Amarige Eau de Toilette FOR A TEENAGE SON/DAUGHTER: By far the most adventurous group, teens are much more likely to try fragrances on a whim, especially when they’re backed by some of their favourite celebs. Scents worn by actors or sports stars are likely to go over well for boys, while sweet, bubble gum-esque fragrances created by pop stars and young actresses are a hit with girls. Try: Lacoste Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Eau de Toilette or Taylor Swift Wonderstruck Enchanted Eau de Parfum

FOR A TEENAGER

cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012

holiday fragrance

BUILD

a Fragrance Wardrobe HELPING A CUSTOMER AMASS THE PERFECT fragrance wardrobe won’t happen overnight, but it’s more than worth your time and effort, say experts. After all, with so many wonderful scents to choose from, limiting the selection to one or two seems a shame. “I often say I wouldn’t wear the same shoes every day because they don’t go with every outfit or event, and ultimately, the repetition can be boring,” says Patty Cooper, national education manager for LVMH Fragrance Brands. “The same applies with fragrance.” Moreover, says Marian Bendeth, global fragrance expert and owner of Sixth Scents, we’re all individuals and our perfume library should reflect that. “You miss out on some outstanding scents and experiences when you limit your fragrance selection to one or two options. It’s when someone springboards off the scent diving board into something they never would have considered before that they are often pleasantly surprised at what they find,” she says.

Here’s how to help customers choose a new and winning fragrance for life’s key moments and moods:

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

“

When someone springboards off the scent diving board into something they never would have considered before…they are often pleasantly surprised

”

FOR A NIGHT OUT

AT THE OFFICE: Soft floral or musky notes are the best nine-to-five bet, if only to appease any potential scent-sensitive co-workers. Advise that they skip any fragrance that smells overpowering, and consider diluted mists or lightly scented body lotions to ensure the aroma is present without being overwhelming. Try: YSL Paris Eau de Toilette or Givenchy Very Irrésistible Eau de Parfum FOR A NIGHT OUT: Look for notes of deep vanilla or musky essential oils to give off a scent that’s warm and feminine, with just a touch of sensual mystery. Try: Narciso Rodriguez For Her Eau de Toilette or Prada Candy Eau de Parfum DURING THE WEEKEND: To keep things fresh and relaxed, try subtle floral notes like ylang ylang, jasmine or wisteria, and consider spritzing with an eau de cologne or eau fraiche, which imbue the right amount of subtle fragrance. Try: Chloé Love Chloé Eau de Parfum or Estée Lauder Pleasures Eau de Parfum FOR A PICK-ME-UP: Scents with citrus undertones make people feel happy, says Cooper, while florals tend to put a skip in their step.

Try: Clinique Happy Eau de Parfum or Gucci Flora by Gucci Eau de Toilette FOR ROMANCE: When in the mood for love, wearing a fragrance with hints of vanilla, musk, tonka bean, amber or patchouli all fit the bill. “They make someone want to get closer,” says Cooper. Try: Calvin Klein Forbidden Euphoria Eau de Parfum or Guerlain Shalimar Eau de Parfum FOR A BOOST OF CONFIDENCE: When it comes to feeling strong and powerful, it’s all about personal scent preference, says Bendeth. “The key is to wear something that reflects the individual’s style and personality as a whole. Do that and you can’t go wrong,” she says. Try: Chanel No. 19 Poudré Eau de Parfum or Armani Code for Women Eau de Parfum

AT THE OFFICE FOR A PICK-ME-UP

FOR ROMANCE DURING THE WEEKEND

A BOOST OF CONFIDENCE

PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE at your fingertips

Introducing new product knowledge tutorials, a partnership between Cosmetics Magazine and Beauteschool. These are 5-10 minute product specific training tutorials that will help keep you current on new product launches before they arrive in your store. We asked Canada’s BA’s what they thought of the idea. Here’s what they said: 99.4% said that these training courses would make their job easier. 88.3% said they would like these available on their computer through Cosmetics web site. 81.2% said they would use these training courses for every product available. Beauty Advisors from across Canada who have completed the Lady Gaga FAME eLearning said: This is the best sales program I have seen. I captured the full picture Mother Monster wishes us to use and sell her Masterpiece. I will do well with these sales techniques. I will kill conformity and have a blast selling!” — Ruthann P. “I though this was a super way to learn the notes and and the technology behind FAME.” — Scott N. “Great visual and interactive learning!” — Flavia A.

Look for the latest product knowledge tutorials on our web site starting mid September this year. Visit:

cosmeticsmag.com

To get you own product training tutorials: e-mail jim.hicks@cosmetics.com, donna.howlett@cosmetics.com, mickeytortorelli@beauteschool.com or call 416.764.1664

INSPIRING CANADA’S BEAUTY EXPERTS

beauty fix

Find solutions to all of your eyecare woes with the latest pro tips and products / by Jill Dunn

in focus 62

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

beauty fix

RINKLES AT THE CORNERS, DROOPY LIDS, dark shadows underneath: there’s no question that the signs of aging creep up around the eyes first and can make you look old beyond your years. “The delicate skin around your eyes is about two or three times thinner than the skin on the rest of your face,” says Victoria-based dermatologist Dr. Mark Lupin, who is also a clinical instructor at the UBC department of dermatology. “And it’s thinner for good physiological reason: if it were the same thickness as our face, we wouldn’t be able to blink.” Given this delicate skin, eye troubles like wrinkles, dark circles, puffiness and lack of firmness are far more apparent. Here, some tricks to looking bright-eyed – just remember, as with any regimen, consistency is key. “I recommend twice per day usage for two to three months to see results,” says Dr. Lupin. “And use a gentle touch – apply using your ring finger for the least amount of pressure.”

concern: fine lines/wrinkles Wrinkles around the eye area are caused by a combination of muscular activity, such as smiling, and photo damage from the sun’s UV rays. “The good news is, out of all the eye care woes, fine lines and wrinkles are amongst the easiest to treat,” says Dr. Sheldon Pollack, medical director at the Toronto Cosmetic Skin Surgery Centre and long-time consultant with NeoStrata. “We have ingredients in our arsenal, like retinol, peptides and vitamin C that are proven to be effective in boosting collagen production and minimizing fine lines.” Retinol and peptides work to increase collagen production; therefore lines will be smoothed over time (increased collagen means that lines are boosted from the inside out.)

GIVE THESE A A TRY

Since fine lines can be more apparent when the skin is dry, it’s imperative to keep the eye area hydrated. “The one thing to note with vitamin A or retinol is that they tend to be drying,” cautions Dr. Lupin. “So I wouldn’t recommend them as a first step. Try peptides instead, because over time, peptides have a thickening effect [on the skin],” he says. “I like polypeptides, specifically matrixyl, around the eye area because it stimulates new collagen formation,” says Dr. Pollack. “What I recommend for everyday use is a combination of peptides and antioxidants like vitamin C. In addition to dealing with what’s around the eye and building new collagen, the vitamin C will prevent future damage.” Try the new NeoStrata Anti-Aging Eye Cream with Fruit Stem Cells, $42 – it’s bolstered with PhytoCellTec, the first fruit stem cell active ingredient that provides a haven for skin stem cells to flourish, while peptides protect precious collagen and smooth lines over time. L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Triple Power LZR Precision Eye Care, $36, mimics an in-office fractionalized laser treatment, where tiny fractions of light cause injury in the skin, thus kick-starting collagen synthesis. Triple Power LZR, however, uses fragmented bits of hyaluronic acid to visibly plump up lines and Pro-Xylane to aid in collagen repair, along with caffeine to constrict blood vessels.

concern: puffiness/undereye bags Pockets of fat around the eye act as a natural cushion, but as we age, these pockets can shift and make us look tired. “In some individuals, the fat can push forward or sag, which results in puffiness,” says Dr. Lupin. If you reach for cream with collagen-boosting ingredients, it can help maintain that all-important skin support system (think of collagen and elastin as scaffolding around the cushions of fat to keep them

Estée Lauder Re-Nutriv Age-Renewal Eye Crème packs an antioxidant punch

NeoStrata Anti-Aging Eye Cream with Fruit Stem Cells helps smooth fine lines

Clinique Even Better Eyes Dark Spot Corrector targets undereye darkness

Lancôme Génifique Yeux Light-Pearl Eye Illuminating Concentrate minimizes eye bags and puffiness

cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012

beauty fix

Smashbox Photofinish Hydrating Under Eye Primer

L’Oréal Paris RevitaLift Triple Power LZR Precision Eye Care

in place). Try Estée Lauder Re-Nutriv Intensive Age-Renewal Eye Crème, $125. It relies on the powerful and rare antioxidant couple of red algae and Chinese plum fruit extract to help de-puff and hydrate eyes. Consider also Lancôme Génifique Yeux Light-Pearl Eye-Illuminating Youth Activating Concentrate, $85. The rotating and massaging stainless steel applicator is designed to have a 360-degree reach all around the eye contour, so puffiness is not only minimized underneath the eye, but also on the lid and tear trough area. Swelling or puffiness can also happen in temporary instances (from late nights or a bout of tears). For a quick fix to suppress swelling, Dr. Pollack recommends a home remedy of a couple of cold tea bags – the chilliness and antioxidants in the tea will reduce puffy areas. And if you wake up every morning puffy? Consider sleeping on two pillows instead of one to gently elevate your head and reduce the chance of fluid retention around eyes, advises Dr. Lupin.

concern: dark circles

StriVectin-TL 360° Tightening Eye Serum

Nothing makes eyes appear more fatigued than dark circles. Think of dark circles almost like bruises under the eye. They are caused by dilated blood vessels that “pool” blood under the eye area, and since the skin is so thin, the darkness of the blood shows through with a “dark shadow” effect. Given that dark circles are hereditary, there’s no miracle cream to make them disappear entirely, but there are topical treatments to help minimize their appearance. Dr. Pollack looks to hydrating eye creams that will improve texture and that also contain optical illuminators to help diffuse darkness. The Clinique Even Better Eyes Dark Spot Corrector, $48, contains mulberry root, vitamin C, caffeine and green tea extract to target darkness, while nearly invisible pigments adapt to each skin tone to optically ‘lift’ dark areas. And Smashbox Photo Finish Hydrating Under Eye Primer, $32, contains light-reflecting pigments to immediately brighten under the eyes, while vitamin C smoothes lines over time.

Caudalie Vinexpert Resveratrol-Oleyl Anti-Ageing Serum for Eyes & Lips

NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

concern: loss of firmness Loss of firmness or slack, drooping skin around the eyes tends to occur in more mature women; many women are conscious of that “hooded” eyelid effect when gravity takes hold and skin starts to look slack. While the only guaranteed fix is a surgical lift for extreme sagging, you can revive slack skin with peptides and retinol to retain tautness around the eye area. Try StriVectin-TL 360° Tightening Eye Serum, $79. This lightweight eye serum contains a patented niacin molecule that works to repair existing damage and strengthen the skin’s barrier function, giving the eye contour a tightening effect (think of it like support hose for your skin). Or try the Caudalie Vinexpert Resveratrol-Oleyl Anti-Ageing Serum for Eyes & Lips, $75. The key ingredient is resveratrol-oleyl, a megaantioxidant that halts glycation (the process responsible for breaking down collagen and elastin) at its source.

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