Cosmetics magazine September/October 2012

INSPIRING CANADA’S BEAUTY EXPERTS

Celebrating

BEAUTIFUL YEARS PLUS YSL Opium Muse Emily Blunt

S E PT E M B E R /O C TO B E R 201 2 / cosmeticsmag.com

PM 40070230. RETURN UNDELIVERABLEITEMS TO: COSMETICS CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT, 7TH FLOOR, ONE MT. PLEASANT ROAD, TORONTO ON M4Y 2Y5

“IT’S AS IF EVERY INCH OF MY SKIN IS GLOWING.” Doutzen Kroes, True Match Lumi Porcelain/Light Ivory, W1-2.

®

Toronto International Film Festival is a registered trademark of Toronto International Film Festival Inc. used under licence by L’Oréal Paris.

lorealparis.ca

©2012 L’Oréal Canada

OUR MOST SKIN-IMPROVING MAKEUP

SKIN LOOKS LUMINOUS MORE EVEN CLEARER NEW

WITH ANTIOXIDANTS VITAMIN C + E SPF 20

■ INSTANTLY SKIN IS ILLUMINATED. ■ 1 MONTH SKIN LOOKS CLEARER, MORE EVEN TONED. NEW INNOVATIVE LIQUID LIGHT TECHNOLOGY

■ FLAWLESS COVERAGE THAT IS SUITABLE FOR SENSITIVE SKIN.

CONTENTS September / October 2012

20 THE REGULARS 8/ 12 / 92 / 94 /

Editor’s Letter Your Say: Thoughts on our last issue Events Calendar & Win This Publisher’s Report

BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE 28 / Beauty Icon: Revlon’s Elle Macpherson 40 / Beauty Star: Pat McGrath of CoverGirl 76 / Scene: Latest industry events

SPECIAL SECTIONS

NEWS 16 / Beauty Flash: An interview with a Dr. Hauschka perfumer, Gucci’s new charismatic scent & more 20 / Beauty Finds: Jewel-toned makeup 24 / Counter Intelligence: Top-selling mascaras

34 / 40 Years in Beauty: A special supplement documenting the last four decades of beauty 59 / Crowning Achievement: A toast to the brands celebrating major anniversaries in 2012 79 / Beauty Advisor Top 40: Your most memorable experiences, top tips and beauty product picks

INSPIR ING

NEW PRODUCTS

CANADA’S BEAUT Y EXPER TS

31 / New Beauty: Best in makeup and skincare 44 / New Scents: Gorgeous new fragrances

EXPERT ADVICE 22 / Haircare 101: Complexion-suiting haircolour 26 / Ask a Doctor: Menopause and your skin 30 / Ingredients 101: Retinol’s anti-aging power

Cover photo by Patrick Demarchelier for Yves Saint Laurent

BEAUTIFU YEARS L S E PT E M B E

PM 40070230.

4

R /O C TO B E

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SEPTEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

Celebrating

PLUS YSL Opiu m Muse Emily

R 201 2 / cosmet icsmag

ITEMS TO: COSMETICS

CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT,

Blunt

.com

7TH FLOOR, ONE

MT. PLEASANT

ROAD, TORONTO

ON M4Y 2Y5

1

12-08-09 2:49 PM

PHOTO: BACKSTAGE BEAUTY, COURTESY MAC COSMETICS; PRODUCT PHOTO, STEPHEN FERRIE

FEATURE STORIES 38 / Beauty School: A foundation refresher 42 / Cover Story: Emily Blunt’s glamorous side 51 / Fall Beauty Trend Report: The hottest looks straight from the runway

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INSPIRING CANADA’S BEAUTY EXPERTS One Mount Pleasant Road, 8th Floor, Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M4Y 2Y5 TEL: 416.764.1664 / FAX: 416.764.1704 / cosmeticsmag.com EDITOR IN CHIEF Kristen Vinakmens

kristen.vinakmens@cosmetics.rogers.com INTERIM ART DIRECTOR Lindsey Mrav

lindsey.mrav@rci.rogers.com

ASSISTANT EDITOR Jillian Vieira jillian.vieira@cosmetics.rogers.com

COSMETICS MAGAZINE SUBSCRIPTION PRICE Subscription Price: Canada $51.00 per year.

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EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, COSMETICS & BEAUTY GROUP, PUBLISHER, COSMETICS MAGAZINE James R. Hicks

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Michelle Iliescu 416.764.1441 E-mail: michelle.iliescu@rci.rogers.com 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. EST weekdays Fax: 416.764.1523 Mail: Cosmetics, One Mount Pleasant Road, 7th Floor, Toronto, ON M4Y 2Y5

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ALSO AVAILABLE FROM COSMETICS MAGAZINE

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karen.richards@cosmetics.rogers.com CIRCULATION MANAGER Bibi Khan

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Vol. 41, No. 10 September/October 2012 Cosmetics, established in 1972, is published 6 times per year

by Rogers Publishing Limited, a division of Rogers Media Inc. Rogers Media Inc., President and CEO: Keith Pelley Rogers Publishing Limited, President and CEO: Ken Whyte Rogers Publishing Limited, Executive Publisher: Lorraine Hoefler Editorial Director: Dianne DeFenoyl; Creative Director: Jason Logan Vice-Presidents: Julie Osborne, Patrick Renard Group Marketing Director: Karen Kelar Senior Marketing & Communications Associate: Hazel Picco Marketing & Promotions Associate: Jason Emata Marketing & Events Associate: Laura Carinci

AGENDA

We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Magazine Fund, toward our editorial costs. Cosmetics is published every two months for selected personnel in manufacturing, distributing, and retailing areas of the cosmetics, fragrance, toiletries and personal grooming, esthetics and related fields. All rights reserved. Contents may not be reproduced by any means, wholly or in part, without the written permission of the publisher.

Subscriber Services: To subscribe, renew your subscription or to change your address or information, please visit us at rogersb2bmedia.com/cosm Mail Preferences: Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to reputable companies whose products or services may be of interest to you. If you do not want your name to be made available please contact us at rogers@cstonecanada.com or update your profile at rogersb2bmedia.com/cosm Our environmental policy is available at rogerspublishing.ca/environment Cosmetics receives unsolicited features and materials from time to time. Cosmetics, its affiliates and assignees may use, reproduce, publish, re-publish, distribute, store and archive such submissions in whole or in part in any form or medium whatsoever, without compensation of any sort.

Beauty Guide C A N A D I A N

2011 2012

Everyone you need to know in the Canadian Beauty Industry

directory_cover_2011.indd 109

11-06-02 12:36 PM

ANNUAL BUYER’S GUIDE

Publications Mail Agreement 40070230. Registration Number 222534. Periodicals Postage Paid at Toronto, Ontario.Contents copyright 2011 by Rogers Publishing Limited, a division of Rogers Media Inc. Return undeliverable items to: Cosmetics Circulation Department, 8th Floor, One Mt Pleasant Road, Toronto, ON M4Y 2Y5

6

SEPTEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

ISSN NUMBER: 01315-1301

editor’s letter

S

This issue’s highlights

starting on page 59. From Shiseido, who marks a whopping 140 years in beauty, to Revlon, who marks 80 years, and Canada’s own Shoppers Drug Mart, who commemorates 50 years, we give an insightful look at how these brands grew from humble beginnings to the huge companies they are today.

Drop me a line — I’d love to know what you think of our newly revamped issue!

Yours in beauty,

Kristen Vinakmens Editor-in-Chief, Cosmetics Magazine Kristen.Vinakmens@cosmetics.rogers.com

Opium’s muse, Emily Blunt

p. 42

Jewel-toned makeup

p. 20

8

september 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

Fall’s best beauty trends

p. 51

Photo by AdAm moco; dress, bAnAnA rePublic; emily blunt by PAtrick demArchelier

ome things just get better with age. For Cosmetics magazine, now in its 40th year, no truer words have been spoken. We’re celebrating four decades of covering the beauty beat with a chic new look for this September issue. We’ve gotten a makeover from cover to cover, from our pretty, subtly whimsical new logo to our clean and inspiring inside pages. We’re showing our glamorous side, and hope to inspire and excite you on each and every page with more beauty eye candy, product knowledge and tips and tricks, all wrapped up in a beautiful package. Yes, we’re one year older, but looking better than ever. A big thank you to our publisher, Jim Hicks, for embracing our new vision, and our fearless art director, Lindsey Mrav, for bringing these gorgeous pages to life.

Even as we embrace the new, inside this issue, you’ll find plenty of retrospective coverage on our 40 years of covering the cosmetics industry. One of my favourite stories is our “40 Years of Beauty” timeline: six glorious pages highlighting key beauty moments, people and products from the last 40 years. We had a lot of laughs putting this beast together as we mined the Cosmetics magazine archives and marveled at what we were able to get away with putting on the cover in those early days (read: plenty of skin), along with the slew of (sometimes questionable) beauty products that have come and gone. We also looked back in amazement at how far beauty has come in terms of technology and innovation; from athome chemical peels to lash-boosting serums and gene-based skincare, we’ve come a long way to say the least.

Speaking of technological feats, look no further than one of the mostanticipated fragrance launches of this year, Lady Gaga Fame. Just like the mega-star herself, the fragrance pushes the boundaries of scent innovation, from the never-before-seen black juice, to the fragrance formulation, which challenges the typical pyramidal hierarchy of scent notes. Fame is also imbued with Gaga’s stamp from top to bottom, and we uncover all of the “Mother Monster” symbolism in “New Beauty” on page 31.

As we mark our own anniversary, we’re also highlighting beauty brands and companies celebrating their own milestones this year,

T h e n e w E a u d e To i l e t t e

w w w. p a c o r a b a n n e . c o m

THE BAY, CANADA’S MOST APPRECIATED BEAUTY EXPERTS

The Bay Mentor

HOLLY MCKILLICAN Counter Manager, Thierry Mugler Fragrances // The Bay, Vancouver Downtown 3 years of beauty experience // Email address: beautymentor@hbc.com

The Bay BEAUTY MENTOR AS CANADA’S PREMIERE BEAUTY DESTINATION, The Bay understands the vital role beauty

experts play in the Canadian beauty industry. Their passion, expertise and leadership are a key reason why customers develop loyalty to our stores. But starting a career in a beauty department can be overwhelming at times. That’s why we’ve introduced a very special program called THE BAY BEAUTY MENTOR. We’ve scoured the country in search of the very finest beauty experts to share their expertise and advice. If you long to ask a question to someone who has made a successful career in a Bay beauty department, just send him or her an email. To learn more about pursuing a career in beauty at The Bay, visit WWW.HBC.COM.

The biggest mistake I’ve learned from: THE BIGGEST LESSON I LEARNED IS NOT TO JUDGE YOUR POTENTIAL CUSTOMERS. I have had some of my best sales with people that I maybe would not have thought would purchase. You could potentially miss out on a great customer.

Wha about m THE GET WHEN Y THAT hand in helping someone feel truly beautiful and good about themselv I love helping others.

had ding in hen I OLD ME O NOT MAKING esh out of school and joining an amazing seasoned advisors was intimidating.

I also learned that honesty is the with my I had a customer e of colours I told

The most memorable client I’ve ever had: I HAD A CUSTOMER WHO WAS GETTING GRAD PHOTOS DONE. She had been bitten by a dog on her face, and was left with scars. She was trying to find a product to cover the marks and was having no luck. I did a makeover on her and she loved it. Unfortunately, it was too expensive for her and she could not buy the palette. I arranged to have her come back the day of the photos to do her makeup for her. She was incredibly excited and had come back in to show her pictures to me. She had always looked beautiful, but her huge smile meant

more to me than any purchase she could have made.... Feel free to reach out to me

at any time, regardless of the question. Email me at beautymentor@hbc.com.

using and that I would e she The customer laughed and

your say Last month, you gave us plenty of kudos, celebrated a dear client, and suggested how we can better help educate you.

Here’s how you responded to our July/August 2012 issue: READER OF THE MONTH Candy Balmakoon of Sears, Stratford, ON will receive a beauty bag for her suggestion on including more feature articles on suncare. Candy writes: “Is it possible to run a twice a year feature (winter and summer) on suncare and sun safety? It seems when customers visit different stores and speak to different consultants, the advice isn’t consistent because many in the beauty world have different opinions on suncare. Customers often walk away with mixed messages about such important products. A feature article could serve as a great teaching tool and reference, so that we can sell these products with confidence.”

Dear Candy, We agree with you wholeheartedly on the importance of suncare education and plan to ramp up our coverage on this important topic in the New Year. So keep your eyes peeled in the coming months and thanks so much for the feedback!

— Kristen, Cosmetics editor

I WOULD LIKE TO THANK YOU FOR

providing us with Cosmetics. It keeps beauty experts up-to-date on the many products we have to offer to our customers. Cosmetics has so much information on a wide variety of lines that we can use as a tool to apply to our daily consultations. The magazine has helped hundreds of beauty experts. Thank you for making our jobs more successful.

—Jennifer Carreira, Shoppers Drug Mart, Edmonton, AB THANK YOU FOR PRODUCING A

magazine with such up-to-date cosmetic and vendor information. With the changes in the industry in the last 10 years, there are fewer vendor representatives to provide information and support to the cosmeticians.

My staff and I use your magazine to keep on top of industry launches and what’s available for online training to stay educated in the forever changing market.

—Deanne Brown, Shoppers Drug Mart, Winnipeg, MB

JUST A QUICK NOTE TO LET YOU

know how much I enjoy the magazine.

It’s like a mini holiday in the food court on my break, like being whisked away to a world of beauty and glamour! I’d also like to share with you the story of Sybil Rosenberg, one of my dearest customers, who just celebrated her 90th birthday! Sybil was born in Liverpool, England, where she bought her first Elizabeth Arden product — a lipstick at age 15. Since then, she has been using Arden exclusively for 75 years. Sybil loves anything new, especially Prevage products and her Ceramide foundation. One of her most prized possessions is a porcelain tray and powder set from the 1970s which is still admired by visitors to her home.

Although she needs a ride to come into the store, she is a frequent visitor to my counter. As a true Elizabeth Arden girl, I would like to recognize this amazing lady. Thanks again for a great read and a lovely treat.

—Lillian Hildebrand, Beauty Advisor Elizabeth Arden, Sears, Winnipeg, MB I LOVE WHEN I RECEIVE MY COPY

of Cosmetics magazine. In our store, it’s part of our communication binder so that each Beauty Advisor takes the time to read it. Cosmetics provides excellent product information and cosmetics tips that we use as a tool to help increase sales and build customer confidence in our department.

— Lisa Pavao, Shoppers Drug Mart, Kingsville, ON

WRITE US&WIN!

Got something to say? Have a great success story you’d like to share, or saw something you loved (or didn’t) in the magazine? Tell us what you think. Send us your feedback to cosmeticsmag@cosmetics.rogers.com. Letters may be edited for length and clarity. If you’re chosen as our Reader of the Month, you could win a free beauty bag filled with products from Smashbox and Bourjois Paris.

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SEPTEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

NO AMMONIA

NATURAL GLOSSY COLOUR

NEVER DULL OR FAKE

“NATURAL NEVER LOOKED SO BEAUTIFUL.” Freida Pinto

myfirsthaircolour.ca

Freida Pinto is wearing Healthy Look Crème Gloss Color shade 4, Dark Brown. ©2012 L’Oréal Canada

■ NOURISHING CRÈME FORMULA ■ 100% GLOSSY COLOUR IN 10 MINUTES ■ NATURALLY LASTS THROUGH 28 SHAMPOOS

Our 1st show-stopping lash mascara.

Ultra-volume at the lashline, sensuous curve root to tip.

NEW

HYPNÔSE STAR SHOW-STOPPING VOLUME MASCARA

DUAL-SIDED BRUSH:

Hearst Holdings, Inc. / Fleischer Studios, Inc. TM

© 2012 King Features Syndicate, Inc. / Fleischer Studios, Inc.

www.bettyboop.com

Betty Boop and Daria’s lashes have been enhanced postproduction.

Flat side to build volume.

Round side to curve and defne.

Lancôme reveals the secret to show-stopping eyes. Get the star lash look with a double-sided brush and black diamond effect formula. Lashes are dressed with intense volume at the lash line and sensuous curve from root to tip. Never overdone.

Discover a new vision of glamour, inspired by Betty Boop and top model, Daria Werbowy.

Daria wears “Noir Midnight” Hypnôse Star, “Gris Fatale” Color Design 5 Shadow & Liner Palette, “170N Sequins d’Amour” Rouge in Love, “310 Bisque C” Teint Idole Ultra 24H. EXCLUSIVE: Watch Daria and Betty Boop do their show on lancome.ca

beauty flash

COSMETICS HOTSEAT

Jörg Zimmermann Dr. Hauschka perfumer

“Because smell is connected to memory, scent is able to transcend time,” says Jörg Zimmermann, a perfumer based in Bad Boll, Germany, whose fragrant blends star in Dr. Hauschka’s range of products. We spoke with him about the art of perfumery and his passion for all things scent.

Q: Describe the raw materials you work with for the Dr. Hauschka brand.

A: My scent palette is comprised of 65 organic essential oils, the most common being bergamot, rose and sandalwood. This natural way of creating fragrance is much like that of perfumers back in the early 1800s.

Q: How do you know when a scent is “just right”?

A: The scent represents an emotion and has to become the invisible bond between the customer and the product.

It is the moment when the idea of the scent and the created experience elevates the product.

Q: Which scent from the line of body moisturizers from Dr. Hauschka is the most special to you?

A: The Lavender Sandalwood Moisturizer. I chose lavender from the heights of Provence, where it grows at an altitude of about 1,000 metres above sea level, where the air is crisp and clean. It’s surrounded by softer floral accords to expose its preciousness, before it unfolds in a slightly balsamic, sandalwood and vanilla accord. —Jillian Vieira

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SCENTS & SENSIBILITIES

Touted as one of the best sales pitches in Dragons’ Den history, the fragrance company The 7 Virtues, which sources the essential oils in their perfumes from wartorn countries, introduces its latest scent, Middle East Peace. The fourth fragrance from founder Barb Stegemann, Middle East Peace Eau de Parfum features key notes from across the Middle East, including sweetie grapefruit from Israel, basil and lime from Iran, along with cedarwood and bamboo. Each fragrance is tied directly to the improvement of a country, an economy or an individual life. Middle East Peace launches September 21, in honour of the International Day of Peace. Available exclusively at the Bay for $70. —Emma Jarratt

PURPLE REIGN

For fall, opposites attract with Estée Lauder’s Pure Color Violet Underground Collection, a lineup of lipsticks, glosses, eyeshadows and lacquer which marries opulent plum shades with glam-rock fuchsia brights. The star of the range is the Five Color Eyeshadow Palette: richly pigmented shadows incorporating “tribrid” technology and a cyber-metallic finish for a variety of effects — apply wet for saturated colour or dry for a subtle shimmer. Hues range from classic to edgy, with a mix of deep violet, shocking pink and striking matte black. Available September for a limited time at select Estée Lauder counters for $25 to $50. —E.J.

beauty flash

beautyschooled

Taking a page from back to school season, the quirky masterminds at Benefit have created the ultimate allin-one face kit, How To Look the Best At Everything Flawless Complexion Kit, $36, housed in insanely cute hardcover-book-like boxes. The retro-inspired kits cheekily riff on self-help and etiquette books, and come equipped with mini sizes of complexion perfectors The Porefessional Pro Balm, Hello Flawless Oxygen Wow Foundation, Boi-ing Concealer and Hello Flawless Custom Powder Cover-Up. Available in three shades (light, medium and dark), the kits also boast tips and tricks to get the most out of your personal beauty book. The best part? When you’re done with the makeup minis, keep the box to store your most prized possessions. —Kristen Vinakmens

PHOTO: BLAKE LIVELY,COURTESY GUCCI

IN THE KNOW ON THE GO Need product knowledge in a snap? Enter beauteschool: one-stop online beauty training tutorials that can be accessed on almost any device. The new program being offered through Cosmetics is the brainchild of Mississauga-based Mickey Tortorelli, whose impressive beauty resume spans 35 years. As the former director of education for cosmetics at Sears Canada and winner of a national training award, beauty has always been part of Tortorelli’s destiny.

Now, she’s found an interactive way to pass the insight on to you. “Beauteschool will provide product knowledge at your fingertips, at your convenience,” she explains. “My hope is that this interactive tool will help Canada’s incredible beauty advisors gain even more confidence and reach beyond their sales goals.” For more info, go to cosmeticsmag.com —J.V.

GOLD STAR If there were one word to describe the new Gucci fragrance, Première, it would be ‘charismatic’. Inspired by old Hollywood glamour, Gucci Première is for every woman who wants to be “that” woman — a star of her own making. Modern redcarpet icon Blake Lively’s personality enchanted Gucci creative director Frida Giannini by embodying all the qualities of the fragrance: sophisticated and vibrant, all wrapped up in a golden and statuesque package. The scent combines classic orange flower and contemporary notes of leather and wood to create a complex yet exciting juxtaposition that builds in tempo and intensity as time goes on. The ultimate prize: Première’s sleek golden flaçon that captures the light at every angle, evoking the glitz and glam of a red-carpet movie premiere. Available September at Holt Renfrew and November at the Bay, Sephora, Shoppers Drug Mart Beauty Boutiques, Murale and Ogilvy nationwide from $64 to $130. —E.J.

Eye Opener

A fashion house known for its radically chic fashion, Givenchy has put an equally bold twist on the classic mascara brush. Devising what the brand refers to as a tri-spherical brush — a DNA-like helix — the design for Noir Couture is inspired by the timeless little black dress. Using copernica extract in combination with a plant-based Brazilian wax formula and applied using varied length fibres, one swipe of the brush is often enough. To ensure lasting effects, Noir Couture incorporates a lash-boosting complex with oxazolidone and artemia to stimulate growth and protect and strengthen existing lashes. Available at Sephora for $35. — E.J.

cosmeticsmag.com / SEPTEMBER 2012

17

purity

anything your cleanser can do,

can do in one simple step

take the purity challenge let us show you how to eliminate 2 steps from your cleansing routine

philosophy’s best-selling cleansers are effective yet gentle 3-in-1 formulas that melt away face and eye makeup, deeply cleanse, lightly tone and hydrate. they are formulated for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

did you take the purity

challenge?

the results are in

here’s what the beauty experts are saying:

“amazing products... amazing results!”

“i would like to try the whole line, the cleanser really made me believe in the products.”

“amazing! best cleanser i have ever tried. it got all my face and eye make up!”

“love the time it saved.” “i can’t say enough about this product as it’s the best one i’ve used. my skin was left feeling super clean and i noticed it had a deeper cleaning than most i tried.”

“thank you so much for now providing me a cleanser that does not dry out my skin.”

and the winner is... alicia ng from Shoppers Drug Mart, Markham, ON alicia and her three friends win a gift basket of philosophy skin care products worth $350 each

beauty finds

Sweep Essence Stay All Day Eyeshadow in Jim-me Blue, $3, all over lids for a gunmetal-blue finish that illuminates the eyes.

Brighten eyes with the soft, pearlescent plum and gold tones in Givenchy Le Prisme Yeux Quatuor Acoustic Harmony No. 80, $64. Inspired by Liv Tyler, this rock ‘n’ roll palette will open up any eye shape and add evening drama with its prismatic black hue.

In just two coats, achieve one of this fall’s hottest shades of purple with GOSH Nail Lacquer in Berry Me, $7.

Precious Gems The season’s jewel-toned makeup hues add glitz and glam to eyes, lips and nails

The ’70s are back with Butter London Nail Lacquer in Lovely Jubbly, $17. The magenta-flecked varnish with red and blue sparkles leaves nails super-sequined and ready for a night out.

Sweep Lise Watier Rouge Gourmand Lipstick in Shiraz, $20, over lips for a fuller look that shines with a wine hue — the perfect fall statement.

The amplified and easy to manipulate purple hue of Estée Lauder Pure Color Vivid Shine Eye Shadow in Electric Orchid, $28, dazzles with its bouncy powder texture and adds impact to the eyes when worn wet.

Wish you could carry the glistening shine that beams off a pond on a sunny day?

Sephora + Pantone Universe Jewel Lacquer in Reflecting Pond, $10, a lustrous, deep Prussian blue, makes nails the ultimate accessory.

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PHOTOS, STEPHEN FERRIE; TEXT, CHRISTINA CIDDIO

Sephora + Pantone Universe Raspberry Radiance Lip Luster, $22, boasts a glitter-infused, glossy outer core and a heart of luscious berry lipcolour. Lips are left ultra-glossy and plump.

INTRODUCING SHISEIDO EXPERT REVIEWS: A PRODUCT TRIAL 140 YEARS IN THE MAKING! To celebrate our 140th anniversary in 2012, Shiseido will be offering an exclusive opportunity to Canadian beauty consultants through Cosmetics Magazine all year long.

Shiseido trusts your expertise. In each issue, you’ll be invited to write in for your chance to be one of 140 lucky beauty consultants selected to test and review a signature Shiseido product!

HERE ARE SOME TESTIMONIALS FROM THE 5th GIVEAWAY OF THE YEAR! White Lucent Intensive Spot Targeting Serum+

Bio-Performance Super Corrective Serum

“Feels like silk on my skin, and after using for 1 week, I notice my skin looks brighter already! I am anxious to see after 6 weeks and after 8 weeks!”

“It smells amazing, has a wonderful smooth texture and absorbed quickly.

The next morning my skin feels incredibly smooth. One of the best serums I have tried thus far.”

“This product is absolutely incredible.

I recently purchased the full line after using the serum for only a couple of days. I have been getting compliments on my skin all week and have already recommended it to my friends, family and contacts in the industry!”

“I simply love this product. The improvements I see on my skin after using the serum for only a short time are amazing. Thank you for the opportunity to experience it.”

NEW GIVEAWAY! As Canadians, we know that cultural diversity is what makes our country beautiful.

As beauty experts, you know that finding a foundation suitable for such a wide variety of skin tones can be difficult—and Shiseido is ready to help you rise to the challenge!

Shiseido’s foundations aren’t just for every skin type; we offer an assortment of ten beautifully natural shades to suit every skin tone. With a range of light to very deep shades offered in Shiseido’s three signature undertones:

B20

B40

B60

I20

I40

I60

I100

O20

O40

O60

“B” for BEIGE,

“I” for IVORY,

“O” for OCHRE,

suitable for pink undertones

suitable for neutral undertones

suitable for olive undertones

Shiseido welcomes customers from all backgrounds to experience the beauty and confidence they’ll feel with a flawless complexion.

Now, we want you to put our foundations to the test: The first 140 beauty experts who contact us will receive a full sized Shiseido Perfect Refining Foundation in your customized shade, along with an award-winning Shiseido Perfect Foundation Brush to create a flawless makeup application!

To receive your products, send an e-mail to: cosmeticsmag@cosmetics.rogers.com or fax Cosmetics Magazine at 416-764-1704 and indicate “Shiseido Foundation” in the subject line. Please be sure to indicate whether your shade is B20, B40, B60, I20, I40, I60, I100, O20, O40 or O60.

haircare 101

Finding your perfect haircolour is as important as it is complicated.

Eric Del Monaco, official hair colourist for L’Oréal Paris in Canada, gives the scoop on the stars who get their colour right and a guide to achieving your own complexion-flattering colour. / by Jillian Vieira

fair COMPLEXION WARM SKIN: Scarlett Johansson We’ve seen Scarlett Johansson’s strands in everything from chocolate brown to deep red, but the best shade on this bombshell is her current creamy blonde. “This colour always looks beautiful on her,” says Del Monaco. “It’s on the cooler side, but it doesn’t go too white, which would wash out her peaches and cream skin.”

Cosmetics pick: Revlon Colorsilk Beautiful Color in #03 (Ultra Light Sun Blonde)

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COOL SKIN: Christina Hendricks With her completely enviable milky white skin, “Christina Hendricks can afford to go for a fire-red hue,” says Del Monaco. While a burgundy red would be too harsh on the skin, the warmth in this colour adds a lit-from-within glow to her face. Most recently, Hendricks has been dabbling in the richer, more auburn side of the red spectrum, which acts as a gorgeous transition hue into the winter months.

Cosmetics pick: L’Oréal Paris Feria Multi-Faceted Shimmering Colour in #74 (Deep Copper Blonde)

PHOTOS: SCARLETT JOHANSSON, DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS/GETTY IMAGES; JENNIFER ANISTON, STEVE GRANITZ/GETTY IMAGES; LEA MICHELE, JON KOPALOFF/GETTY IMAGES; BEYONCE, JASON MERRITT/GETTY IMAGES

COLOUR coded

haircare 101

medium COMPLEXION WARM SKIN: Jennifer Aniston She’s famous for her former ’90s sitcom haircut, but Jennifer Aniston’s honey blonde colour also deserves some kudos. “Her haircolour is usually a warm blonde, save for a few neutral pieces in the front,” says Del Monaco. This neutral section creates a contrasting buffer zone between her peachy skin tone and warm hair, leaving her hue look multidimensional and balanced.

COOL SKIN: Anna Kendrick Cosmetics pick:

L’Oréal Paris Superior Preference in #8 (Medium Blonde)

olive COMPLEXION

Ditching her once coffee-brown locks, Anna Kendrick’s recent switch to a medium brown colour with a strawberry wash has brought a welcome warmth to her face. This skin tone can wear a variety of colours, but the most complementary hues, like ashy brown, mahogany and golden brown will subtly pick up on the pink undertones in the face.

Cosmetics pick: Clairol Nice ‘N Easy Color Blend Foam in #6R (Light Auburn)

WARM SKIN: Jennifer Lopez Those with golden-y undertones like Jennifer Lopez should seek out a neutral colour — like her medium cool blonde — that won’t compete with their glowing skin. “Look for words like ‘ash’ and ‘natural’ when selecting an at-home haircolouring kit for this skin tone,” says Del Monaco. “These hues will provide a beautiful, soft distinction against the face.”

Cosmetics pick: L’Oréal Paris Superior Preference in #17 (Dark Ash Blonde)

COOL SKIN: Lea Michele The combination of Lea Michele’s rich chocolate brown locks and toffee-coloured highlights give us major hair envy. If you’re looking to lighten up like Lea and still complement your cool, olive-y skin tone, opt for a lighter brown colour instead of veering into blonde territory.

“Staying within three shades of your base colour will ensure that it blends seamlessly,” says Del Monaco.

Cosmetics pick:

Garnier Nutrisse Mousse in #4IM (Iced Mahogany Dark Brown)

dark COMPLEXION WARM SKIN: Beyonce Beyonce’s blonde highlights get the stamp of approval from Del Monaco (“I like contrast when it’s done right,” he says), but getting there requires a lengthy process for this skin tone. Women with darker complexions naturally have red tones in their hair, he explains, which need to be chemically removed at a salon or else your highlights risk looking brassy.

COOL SKIN: Rihanna

XX

Cosmetics pick:

L’Oréal Paris Feria Multi-Faceted Shimmering Colour in #73 (Dark Golden Blonde)

This colour chameleon has recently landed on a hue that suits her cool, blue undertones: a glossy raven black. Keeping your dark hair shiny and vibrant is key to making this look dimensional as well as the skin looking rich and even. Going a touch lighter to a mocha or auburn brown will also offer depth to the skin and create a striking contrast.

Cosmetics pick: Clairol Perfect 10 by Nice ‘N Easy in #2 (Black)

cosmeticsmag.com / SEPTEMBER 2012

23

counter intelligence

EYE CANDY

In a single wondrous swipe, mascara can take you from just-rolledout-of-bed to bright-eyed and bushy-tailed (or at least looking like it).

Here, a cross section of the country’s best-selling mascaras and a look at their winning features / by Jillian Vieira

EDMONTON, AB

BURNABY, BC

24

REGINA, SK

LONDON DRUGS MARINE WAY AND BYRNE, BURNABY

REXALL JASPER AVENUE, EDMONTON

Lancôme Hypnôse Doll Lashes, $31

CoverGirl LashBlast Fusion Mascara, $11

“Hypnôse Doll Lashes Mascara delivers an intense black shade with full-bodied shine, which helps create a wide-eyed, doll lash effect that is not only hypnotic, but innocently charismatic as well.”

— Lora Spiga, Lancôme official makeup artist

“LashBlast Fusion is truly an iconic mascara that gives you the perfect lashes. You get the best of both worlds: stunning length and bold volume.

Plus, it’s clump-free and smudge-proof, delivering exceptional separation.”

— Greg Wencel, CoverGirl makeup pro

SEPTEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

OTTAWA, ON

MONTREAL, QC

SEARS CORNWALL CENTRE, REGINA

THE BAY RIDEAU CENTRE, OTTAWA

HOLT RENFREW, MONTREAL

Clinique High Impact Mascara $19

MAC Haute & Naughty Lash Mascara, $23

Chanel Mascara Inimitable Intense, $36

“Haute & Naughty is my favourite mascara because it creates such varied looks. Its dual wiper system allows you to create a light, natural look or thick, voluminous lashes – basically you get two mascaras in one! — Jane McKay, MAC senior artist

“In my work, the depth of the gaze is very important, so when I want stunning eyes with density and perfect lashes, I always use Inimitable Intense, because the brush makes all the difference.” — Julie Cusson, national makeup artist for Chanel

“Women love High Impact Mascara because it delivers big lash payoff with little effort. This mascara instantly dresses up your lashes in much the same way a pair of stilettos can immediately amp up your wardrobe.”

— Sara Whittaker, director of education at Clinique Canada

11TH ANNUAL COSMETICS OUTSTANDING SERVICE AWARDS

2012 FINALISTS

GOOD LUCK TO EVERYONE ON THIS LIST. YOU ARE ALL WINNERS IN OUR EYES!

2012 COSA TEAM AWARD FINALISTS Pharmaprix 58, Montreal, QC Pharmaprix Marc Champagne, Pointe-aux-Trembles, QC Rexall Pharma Plus Shoppers World, Brampton, ON

SDM 202, Vancouver, BC SDM 2299, Vernon, BC SDM 653, Sudbury, ON The Bay, Chanel, Richmond, BC

Sephora, Burlington, ON The Bay Rideau, Clinique, Ottawa, ON Sephora, London, ON

2012 COSA AWARD FINALISTS Andrea Ainslie, Rexall Pharma Plus, Petawawa, ON Francesca Amante, The Bay, Penticton, BC Tina Amante, The Bay, Montreal, QC Joan Armstrong, Rexall Pharma Plus, Ottawa, ON Celine Arsenault, Sephora, St-Bruno, QC Indrani Baksh, SDM, Mississauga, ON Sarah Mitten Balistoy, The Bay, Winnipeg, MB Nicole Ballinger, Rexall Pharma Plus, Bradford, ON Angelina Bankova, The Bay, Vancouver, BC Tanya Baptie, Rexall Pharma Plus, Peterborough, ON Maria Bernardo, The Bay, St. Albert, AB Sophie Bissuel, Shiseido, Markham, ON Sue Blain, Rexall Pharma Plus, Beamsville, ON Johanna Bouchard, The Bay, St-Bruno, QC Daphne Boyd, SDM, Gander, NL Angie Bristol, Sears, Nanaimo, BC Mallory Carins, SDM, Ottawa, ON Cynthia Chamberland, Pharmaprix, Mascouche, QC Janet Chatterton, Rexall Pharma Plus, Picton, ON Michelle Cheng, The Bay, Vancouver, BC Ida Cheung, The Bay, Vancouver, BC Frances Christopher, Biotherm, Montreal, QC Jenna Conquergood, Sephora, Ottawa, ON Margaret Corfield, SDM, Surrey, BC Rosemary Crysler, Sears, Burlington, ON

Lisa Diroco, The Bay, Kingston, ON Sherrie Edison, Rexall Pharma Plus, Pembroke, ON Zena Eleya, Sears, Mississauga, ON Maria Elias, The Bay, Mississauga, ON Penny Erickson, The Bay, Red Deer, AB Sheila Ford-King, Dermtek Pharmaceuticals, Dorval, QC Lydia Fox, Sephora, Toronto, ON Michelle Fraser, The Bay, Nanaimo, BC Rolande Goanloy, The Bay, Montreal, QC Ewa Gryz, The Bay, Vancouver, BC Sylvain Harbec, Lise Watier, Montreal, QC Jacquie Hutchinson, Revlon, Mississauga, ON Allison Krause, Rexall Pharma Plus, Brighton, ON Joy Van Laare, Chanel, Delta, BC Francoise LeClerc, The Bay, Quebec City, QC Jisook Lee, Shiseido, Markham, ON Lise Lortie, Sears, Quebec City, QC Lee MacKinnon, Holt Renfrew, Toronto, On Kim Malone, Rexall Pharma Plus, Kingston, ON Joelle Martin, SDM, Edmundston, NB Lindsay Martin, Sephora, Burlington, ON Marco Mazzucca, The Bay, Toronto, ON Holly McKillican, The Bay, Vancouver, BC Michelle McNeill, SDM, Markham, ON Maria Molchanova, Sephora, Toronto, ON

Julie Monaghan, Sears, Sudbury, ON Isabella Montagano, SDM, New Westminster, BC Scott Newton, Sears, Sarnia, ON Joan Nicholson, The Bay, Windsor, ON Carey Parkin, SDM, Burlington, ON Lana Pasqualino, SDM, Bolton, ON Joanne Piazza, The Bay, Kamloops, BC Marie Pivato, SDM, Guelph, ON Rose Oickle, Rexall Pharma Plus, Ottawa, ON Hayley Ordiway, SDM, Waterloo, ON Ashley Regnier, Sephora, Toronto, ON Michelle Richardson, The Bay, West Vancouver, BC Lucille Ross, The Bay, Laval, QC Pier-Marc Savard-Morneau, Sephora, Quebec City, QC Karine Simard, Jean Coutu, Jonquiere, QC Mena Smith, Coty, Oakville, ON Krista Sobican, The Bay, Toronto, ON Marie-Pier Spénard, Familiprix, Lachute, QC Ellen Sullivan, Rexall Pharma Plus, Port Hardy, BC Holly Trasmundi, SDM, Niagara Falls, ON Becky Walkom, SDM, Stratford, ON Yvonne Wiegers, The Bay, Saskatoon, SK Férial Zaytounie, Smashbox, Montreal, QC Cecilia Zhang, Sears, Ottawa, ON

Over the next month we will pick 17 WINNERS from the above finalists Each winner will be invited to Toronto on Wednesday November 14, 2012, and presented with their awards at the COSA GALA EVENT

CURRENT COSA SPONSORS

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ask a doctor

Arrested development Dealing with the effects of menopause on skin What types of skincare products should women be looking for to combat the effects of menopause on skin?

Ideally, your skincare regimen should include a gentle pHbalanced cleanser to cleanse the skin; a toner, preferably with glycolic and/or salicylic acid to exfoliate, and motivate the healing of damaged skin; a product with alpha hydroxy acids, such as Miracle 10’s AHA Gel I or AHA Cream to boost cell renewal, and to promote the synthesis of collagen; and a moisturizer to combat dryness, aid in tissue repair, block the production of free radicals and strengthen elastin.

This kind of skincare regimen will contribute to healthier, younger-looking skin that is supple and strong.

What are the key ingredients to look for?

Look for ingredients such as lactic, glycolic, salicylic and kojic acid, as well as hyacare 50 (a form of hyaluronic acid) and sodium hyaluronate (which helps skin absorb water).

Also look for the following vitamins and minerals, which protect against the development of free radicals, and which have known anti-aging properties: green tea extract, vitamins E and C, eucalyptus oil, chamomile extract, aloe vera gel, kombuchka and lavender oil.

How can women combat the effects of menopause on skin in terms of their skincare regimen?

As women enter perimenopause and menopause, it becomes Are there any lifestyle changes menopausal women ever more important to be diligent about using a good skincan make to avoid getting dry skin? care regimen. Your skincare products should contain active Stay out of the sun. It will dry out the skin, and cause damingredients that affect real changes to the skin. Your regime age which becomes harder to heal once women enter menoshould exfoliate the skin, encourage cell turnover, strengthen pause. Having regular lactic or glycolic peels will also help the skin’s support structure by stimulating the production of encourage cell turnover and stimulate the production of colcollagen and elastin, provide hydration, and protect against lagen. You may also need to moisturize more often and at a moisture loss and the onslaught of environmental polluthigher intensity than you did when you ants. Many women also find that reguwere younger. Installing a humidifier lar exercise helps stimulate blood flow Dr. Frank Lista, M.D., F.R.S.C.S., in your home can help the skin retain to the skin, which keeps your complastic surgeon, is the founder adequate moisture levels. Set humidplexion looking healthy. Some women and medical director of The ity levels around 40% and you’ll notice might be prescribed hormone replacePlastic Surgery Clinic (theplasa big difference. Of course, drinking ment therapy by their doctors, which ticsurgeryclinic.com), which has created the enough water and getting lots of sleep can help with many of the symptoms of Miracle 10 line of clinical anti-aging skincare will also keep your skin looking youthmenopause, including those associated products. For more info, visit: miracle10.com ful and healthy. with the skin.

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september 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

Photo: veer

What can happen to skin during menopause?

As women age, their egg supply declines in both number and quality. As a result of this transformation, hormone production changes and estrogen and progesterone levels begin to drop. When it comes to skin, several things happen: firstly, the skin dries out. Just as in adolescence, when hormone levels are high and one experiences an excess in oil production, in menopause, the reverse is true. In the absence of estrogen, oil production decreases, causing the skin to become dry. Normal cell turnover also slows down, and skin cells are less capable of carrying on with their normal functions at the speed at which they once did. As a result, dead skin cells accumulate, resulting in dull, dry and even flaky skin. Increased collagen loss causes thinning of the skin, a decrease in skin elasticity, the inability to heal quickly, and decreased skin strength. All of these transformations result in diminished skin texture and tone, some sagging, increased susceptibility to the development of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as a loss of volume.

NEW

NEOVADIOL LUMIÈRE: THE 1ST BB CREAM FOR MATURE SKIN 1. I SEE Facial symptoms linked to hormonal aging. Noticable less defined facial features, sagging skin, dryness, loss of radiance and dullness.

2. I ASK

• Are you concerned with loss of density?

• Are your concerned with your skin’s dullness?

• Do you want to restore your skin density and boost its radiance?

• Do you find that foundations aren’t adapted to your skin anymore?

3. I EXPLAIN The symptoms related to menopausal aging are strongly linked to hormonal decline (in estrogen) and a deficiency in growth factors. The supporting tissues deteriorate causing visible changes in the 3 key zones: the jaw line slackens, cheekbones lose their definition and the neck loses tonicity.

Finally, the dysfunction of the vascular network results in the skin losing its natural rosy radiance, leaving it looking dull.

Often, foundations aren’t adapted to mature women, not offering a natural finish.

4. I RECOMMEND NEOVADIOL LUMIÈRE ACTIONS : In one step, Neovadiol Lumière answers all needs.

Thanks to its double action, of anti-aging and complexion enhancing properties, Neovadiol Lumière is the 1st BB Cream specially designed for mature skin.

1 skincare, 6 clinically proven actions:

DENSIFIES & SCULPTS THE FACIAL CONTOURS*

Refined jaw line

Plumped cheeks

Toned neck

NOURISHES & SMOOTHES THE SKIN

-50% Skin dryness*

86% Smoother skin**

ILLUMINATES & EVENS THE SKIN TONE

94% Healthy glow** 97% 10 hr hold** 80% Even and fresh complexion all day long** INGREDIENTS: Neovadiol Lumière combines: • the technology of Pro-Xylane and Proteic Gf, reconstructors of skin tissue • the power of non-drying natural pigments and mother of pearl, to better cater to all the needs of mature skin.

SENSORIALITY: Neovadiol Lumière is highly nourishing and comfortable.

With its universal shade, it melts and adapts to all skin tones.

For the most natural result and healthy looking skin. * Clinical trial on 220 women for 3 months. ** Self-assessment on 71 women in menopause. 2 weeks of use.

beauty icon

body As Revlon celebrates its 80th anniversary, Cosmetics sits down with one of its most memorable faces, Elle Macpherson / by Kristen Vinakmens

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september 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

The Story of Revlon Beginning with a single opaque nail enamel in 1932, Revlon’s beginnings were humble at best.

The Great Depression was not the ideal time to start a franchise, yet two American brothers, Charles and Joseph Revson, partnered with chemist Charles Lachman and created a company that flourished despite the bleak market. By 1945, and the end of WWII, Revlon embraced the change from drab consumer culture to life-in-colour television ads throughout the 1950s with seasonal colour collections such as Fire and Ice, the iconic red nail enamel and lipstick. The launch of Revlon’s first fragrance, Charlie, in 1970, caused a sensation with ads appealing to young working women, and by 1977, it became number one in the world.

Today, Revlon continues to strive for excellence in its products; recent innovations include the magical nail buffer Crazy Shine, Revlon Colorstay Longwear Nail Enamel (a lacquer with the staying power of salon-only gels) and RootErase By ColorSilk, which nixes visible regrowth with a precision sponge applicator. With Gucci Westman at the helm as global artistic director, the brand has also returned to its roots as a colour authority with vibrant seasonal makeup collections. After 80 years in beauty, the future looks bright for this unstoppable brand. — Emma Jarratt

Photo: george Pimentel

If there was ever a posterwoman for what 49 should look like, it would be elle macpherson. the iconic ’80s supermodel looks like a rockstar, from her perfectly disheveled ombré locks, black leather jacket and red leopard-print skinny jeans to her studded louboutins. with her virtually ageless appearance, it’s apt that macpherson was chosen as the face of revlon’s age defying makeup line. as a woman approaching 50, macpherson wanted the chance to speak to women in her age group. “this is such a fantastic, powerful and important time, not only for women but for society,” she says.

Known as “the Body” for her amazonian frame, macpherson got her start as “the girl next door” in a commercial for taB cola. shortly thereafter, the super landed magazine covers for Sports Illustrated, Elle and Vogue. now, with 30 years in the modeling business, macpherson’s career is stronger and more diversified than ever: she’s a mom to boys arpad and aurelius, founder and mogul of the successful lingerie line elle macpherson Intimates, host and executive producer of Britain’s next top model and ambassador for three global charities. how does she do it?

“I meditate for a while in the mornings to help me get centred,” she says.

“It’s a great way to alleviate stress, which can lead to premature aging.” to keep her famous body in shape, the model-mogul heads outside and enjoys water sports such as surfing, but makes sure she slathers on plenty of sunscreen. “I [also] wear a cowboy hat, which protects both my skin and hair,” she adds. Keeping her skin in tip-top form is paramount, so macpherson relies on a basic moisturizer and revlon age defying with dnadvantage Cream makeup. “It not only covers my imperfections, it also treats my skin,” she says. her beauty philosophy: “less is more. I bank on radiant skin, healthy hair and beautiful hands with a flawless manicure.” she adds, “I am hooked on colourful polishes. I have a weakness for flashy greens or fuchsias.” perfect for a rockstar.

A

Flawless Complexion... www.bourjois.ca

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...having a fawless complexion. My secret? The Bourjois Paris Healthy Mix and Healthy Balance family of products for the perfect glowing skin. Enriched with Asian fruit therapy for moisture and vitamins, this line of concealers, foundations, and powders are ft for anyone looking to achieve that fabulous Parisian glow.

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Left - Right: Healthy Balance Powder, $24; Healthy Mix Concealer, $19; Healthy Mix Serum Gel Foundation, $27; and Touche Healthy Mix, $20.

ingredients 101

From top: Dermaglow Retinol Intense Eye; RoC Retin-Ox Wrinkle Correxion Daily AntiWrinkle Moisturizer; Vichy LiftActiv Retinol HA Night

RETINOL REVIVAL

How a skincare ingredient discovered over 80 years ago is making a comeback / by Michelle Bilodeau SHINING THE SPOTLIGHT ON AN INGREDIENT THAT was discovered more than 80 years ago may not seem all that revolutionary, especially in the fast-paced beauty world, where new “It” ingredients pop up almost every month. However, retinol, first stabilized for use in cosmetics by RoC skincare 25 years ago, has been recently experiencing a bit of a revival. The difference between today’s retinol-based products versus those from even five or 10 years ago? “Our research on retinol has enabled our formulators to adjust the ingredient level and the delivery system, so that we can design a product for every consumer who is looking for anti-aging efficacy,” says Warren Wallo, director of scientific engagement in the research & development department at Johnson & Johnson. “RoC has made a commitment to offer more gentle variations of retinol for those with more sensitive skin who might not normally choose retinol-based skincare.” Plus, he adds, “The newer combinations of anti-aging ingredients with retinol — for example, hyaluronic acid — enables us to address an even wider range of anti-aging needs.”

First used to treat acne more than 40 years ago, there was an ‘Aha’ moment of epic proportions when dermatologists

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SEPTEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

discovered that retinol also helped smooth fine lines and wrinkles, minimize brown spots caused by sun damage and helped even out skin tone. A gentler form of prescription vitamin A, retinol causes less skin irritation and is meant for continued use, meaning its benefits will be seen only as long as you are using the products. “Retinol is a particularly effective form of vitamin A for use in cosmetics for antiaging skin benefits,” says Wallo. Adds Kirk Brierley, trainer for RoC skincare, “Retinol helps accelerate the turnover of skin cells, giving skin a radiant glow and a more fresh tone,” he says. “[It] helps to ease fine lines and influences, over time, the development of collagen and elastin in the skin.”

Though most skin types can tolerate using retinol, with creams and serums mostly geared towards those looking to experience its anti-aging benefits, those with hyper-sensitive skin should consult a dermatologist. However, “[Age-wise], it really is one of those ingredients that can be universally used,” Brierley says. “It’s often marketed to someone of a more mature age, maybe in their forties, but it can be used on anyone. Even someone as young as their thirties will realize the benefits from it. In our thirties, cellular turnover starts to slow down to about every five to six weeks, from four weeks when we’re in our twenties.”

“I usually recommend my patients use it once daily as it may be too drying if used twice daily,” says Dr. Sandy Skotnicki, assistant professor at the University of Toronto and medical director at the Bay Dermatology Centre. “To be effective, you need a one percent concentration of retinol.

If it’s less than that, it won’t be very effective for anti-aging purposes.” Amp up your skincare routine with over-thecounter retinol-based products such as RoC Retin-Ox Wrinkle Correxion Daily Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizer. Containing pure retinol and a vitamin complex called Multi-Vitamin OX, it also boasts vitamins B5, C, E, zinc, magnesium and copper, which all aim to tighten skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and sun spots.

Studies have also shown that eating a diet high in vitamin A may help skin with the aging process from the inside out.

To speed things along, also try Vichy LiftActiv Retinol HA or Dermaglow Retinol Intense Eye Cream. Looks like some ageold beauty advice is actually worth a second look.

New beauty The Latest Foundations / Best Fall Beauty Trends / Emily’s Blunt’s Sultry Side

The Juice

Lady Gaga Fame is the first-ever black Eau de Parfum, a new technological feat.

But while it may look black in the bottle, the scent sprays on clear. The moody hue symbolizes the dark side of fame.

The BoTTle The heavy glass flaçon was designed by Gaga in collaboration with boundarypushing fashion photographer Nick Knight.

Its sleek, rounded shape recalls the “egg” the mega-star famously emerged from at the 2011 Grammy Awards.

The cap The gold, art-deco-inspired cap resembles a claw, another of Gaga’s favourite emblems. Known as the “monster claw,” it’s a hand gesture made famous in Gaga’s “Bad Romance” video, which fans use as a sign of devotion to their Mother Monster.

PHOTO, STEPHEN FERRIE

black Magic woman How do you bottle an icon who defies categorization? Create an “anti-fragrance” that challenges everything we know about what a perfume should be. Enter Lady Gaga Fame, the first fragrance from the mega-star in collaboration with Coty and the singer’s Haus Laboratories. The scent’s innovative formulation forgoes the traditional top, heart and bottom notes, and instead uses a “push-pull technology” that allows the ingredients to randomly rise and fall when worn on the skin. Fame has three facets: a dark accord, featuring essence of deadly belladonna plant and smoky incense; a sensual accord of luscious apricot nectar, honey and saffron; and a light accord, with crushed tiger orchid and jasmine sambac. But the fruity-floral’s star ingredient is belladonna, infamous for the risky 16th century practice of Italian women using the extract to dilate their pupils for a wide-eyed, prettier appearance (a look Gaga similarly sported in her “Bad Romance” video).

So if you’re looking for something just a little bit different in a fragrance, look no further than Fame.

Lady Gaga Fame Eau de Parfum Ultimate Masterpiece, 100mL, $89; Eau de Parfum 50mL, $59; 30mL, $39

cosmeticsmag.com / september 2012

31

Revlon ColorStay Whipped Crème Makeup What it is: A 24-hour-wear, ultra-light, oil-free whipped foundation that blends flawlessly the Benefits: Available in 12 shades, the formula features time-

release technology with silk and botanicals to keep skin looking fresh, soft and matte all day. hoW-to tip: Jacquie Hutchinson, Revlon’s national product trainer, suggests applying a thin layer all over the skin and then, using your fingertips, dabbing more product in areas that need extra coverage. price: $19

Available September at drugstores and mass retailers

NEw iN StORE

Lancôme Hypnôse Star

makeup

by Christina Ciddio

What it is: Lancôme goes to Hollywood

with this glam mascara inspired by animated icon Betty Boop and model Daria werbowy Who it’s for: women who want amplified,

voluminous and curled lashes that sparkle with an intense black diamond formula. the Benefits: Mineral pigments intensify,

while light-reflecting oils coat and separate lashes; ideal for any length because of its triangular-shaped wand, which makes it possible to coat even the shortest of lashes. price: $31

Available now at Lancôme counters

Guerlain Fall 2012 Collection What it is: A feminine combination of fiery red and sultry pink lip colours accompanied by rose and peach cheek shades Who it’s for: Designed for women who adore iconic looks

that can be transformed from daytime to nighttime.

What it is: A limited edition fall collection of natural makeup shades for a fresh, ultra-feminine look What’s included: Reformulated Ombre Essentielle mono-

L’Extrait, with strong pigments containing anti-aging ingredients such as hyaluronic acid to fill and plump lips; vibrant rose and coral blush shades make the Rose aux Joues the perfect compact to define cheekbones; while the new Rouge G de Guerlain shades of red complement any look.

chrome eyeshadows with intense matte finishes, like Noir, that define the eyes; Lumière d’Artifices iridescent powder in beige with golden sparkle for sun-kissed skin; Rouge Coco Shine in Chic, a transparent beige with fine gold shimmer; a trio of Le Vernis polishes in an elegant almost-black, natural lilac grey and soft, feminine fuchsia.

price: $33 to $64

price: From $26 to $75

Available now at select Guerlain counters

Available now at Chanel counters

What’s included: the new matte-finish gloss, Rouge G

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Les Essentiels De Chanel

september 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

NEW IN STORE

makeup

Origins Gin Zing Brightening Mascara & Cream Eye Shadow WHAT IT IS: A line of eye brightening products infused with ginseng to perk up tired eyes WHAT’S INCLUDED: Lightweight, soft cream shadows available in 10 shades and a lash-emphasizing mascara that defines lashes with just a few strokes.

THE BENEFITS: The crease-proof cream shadow can be used

alone or as a primer; voluminous, clump-free results from the mascara leave a smudge-proof coat that enhances the eye with a black, luminous finish.

KEY INGREDIENTS: Panax ginseng and caffeine in the cream

shadows calm the skin and rid signs of fatigue; acacia senegal and carnauba wax enhance lash length and volume while rosemary extract and vitamins E and B condition.

PRICE: $21

Available now at the Bay

Clinique Pore Refining Solutions Instant Perfecting Makeup Lancôme Midnight Roses Collection WHAT IT IS: An elegant spectrum of purple hues

reminiscent of magical Parisian nights WHAT’S INCLUDED: Dazzling velvety-matte lipsticks and

glosses in saturated wine shades, like Rose Sortilége and Magie Pourpre; a soft and feminine champagne-pink highlighter; and an intense purple polish accompanied by a velvet-matte topcoat, Givre Magique, to intensify any evening look.

PRICE: From $16 to $58

Available mid-September at department stores and select drugstores

WHAT IT IS: A lightweight matte-finish liquid

foundation that conceals pores and leaves skin flawless. Infused with the resurfacing complex found in Clinique’s Pore Refining Solutions serum, this makeup not only conceals but also helps diminish pores over time.

KEY INGREDIENTS: Padina pavonica extract and salvia sclarea help minimize the appearance of pores; salicylic acid keeps pores clear, while laminaria saccharina controls sebum production.

PRICE: $33

Available September at Clinique counters

MAC Nail Lacquers WHAT IT IS: MAC’s first permanent nail

lacquer collection featuring 31 trendy shades WHAT’S INCLUDED: Colours in three finishes including Girl About Town, an eye-popping opaque fuchsia cream; the frosted light bronze gold, Soirée; and Formidable! a teal green with pink multi-changing pearl.

WHO IT’S FOR: Nail-savvy trendsetters looking

to match their tips with their eye and lip colours.

PRICE: $19

Available September at all MAC counters

cosmeticsmag.com / SEPTEMBER 2012

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new in store

makeup Makeup For Ever Black Tango Palette What it is: A limited edition Aqua Cream palette showcasing

four new shades inspired by Argentina’s fiery tango What’s included: Four modern, smudge-proof shadows composed

of black-red, blue, green and ivory in a lace-embellished case. Each individual Aqua Cream comes equipped with a flip-top cap to prevent drying and is accompanied by a dual-ended nylon brush.

Smashbox Photo Finish More Than Primer Dark Spot Correcting

hoW-to tiP: Dany Sanz, Makeup For Ever founder

What it is: A two-in-one primer that tackles

and creative director, suggests applying the Aqua Cream with a flat brush, concentrating the colour in the lash line and moving up towards the crease.

dark spots

Price: $50

Who it’s for: This multi-purpose primer helps

Available September at Sephora

even skin tone and target spots with a cocktail of antioxidants and vitamins. the Benefits: Not only will spots fade with continued use, but like all Smashbox primers, the formula smoothes and preps the skin, leaving it soft, radiant and ready for makeup.

Price: $50

Available now at Shoppers Drug Mart, Murale and Sephora

Bobbi Brown Uber Basics Collection Fall 2012 What it is: A back to basics collection of beauty essentials

available in four separate colour sets Who it’s for: Designed for women of all skin tones, this collection

boasts neutral shades that transform any look from daytime to nighttime.

What’s included: Four new lightweight, crease-free shadow shades (Bone, Cement, Taupe and Black Chocolate) available in shimmer sparkle or silky matte formulas; lip conditioning glosses infused with vitamins C and E; long-wearing, matte-finish blush that leaves skin with a healthy glow and is now available in two new shades, Pretty Pink and Pink Rose.

Price: $26 to $33

Available September at Holt Renfrew

Yves Saint Laurent Fall/Winter Collection What it is: A universally flattering collection that includes enticing khaki shadows and bold velvet-matte lipsticks Who it’s for: The bohemian YSL Rive Gauche woman who enjoys intense

matte colours and shimmering neutrals for the ultimate Parisian look.

What’s included: Palette Couture with shades of pink, beige and a subtle rosy brown to sculpt the face, encapsulated in a jeweled crocodile motif; fervent matte red lipsticks in shades like Rouge Rock, a part of the new The Mats Rouge Pur Couture collection; a trio of soft, gel-textured Dare To Glow illuminators that create a pearl-like veil on the skin.

Price: $27 to $74

Available now at Holt Renfrew, select the Bay, Murale and Sephora

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new in store

makeup

Bourjois Healthy Balance Compact Powder

Shiseido Radiant Lifting Foundation

What it is: A hypoallergenic, skincare-infused powder with Asian fruit extracts that delivers a matte, natural finish without drying the skin

What it is: A lifting and firming foundation that delivers 24-hour hydration and tackles uneven tone and skin dullness

Key ingredients: Sharon fruit extract derived from the persimmon tree moisturizes, renews and tones the skin, while citrus extract yuzu purifies the skin, leaving it radiant and shine-free, offering the perfect balance for all skin types. the Benefits: Offers a soft texture that doesn’t mask the skin;

available in three natural shades that adapt to all complexions.

Price: $24

Available now at Shoppers Drug Mart and Murale

the Benefits: In four weeks, pores are reduced,

lines are smoother, and skin looks firm and lifted.

Key ingredients: Shiseido’s radiance-boosting complex uses technology that mimics light-reflecting boards used by photographers; radiant reflecting powder and photo-smoothing pearl erase shadows; and radiant glow oil illuminates the skin.

Price: $48

NARS Fall 2012 Collection

Available September at select major drug and department stores

What it is: A bold fall collection of modern shades incorporated with shimmer for a brazen yet dainty look Who it’s for: Designed for all “NARSissists,” this collection offers colours

to create strong, bold lips and soft lavender-green eyes, helping you transition from warm summer evenings into crisp autumn nights.

What’s included: The star of the collection is the limited edition High Society palette with a trio of shadows in unique finishes that offer a variety of looks season after season; the multi-purpose nude-pink Multiple adds luminosity to any part of the face; and the Velvet Gloss Lip Pencil, More, sheer lipstick, Autumn Leaves, and metallic brandy-coloured Lip Gloss, Rouge Tribal, create tawny lips for contrast.

Price: $21 to $55

Available now at Nars Counters at the Bay, Holt Renfrew, Sephora and Murale

MAC Prep + Prime Natural Radiance What it is: A silky-gel primer designed

to control oil while giving skin a flawless and smooth appearance Who it’s for: Designed for combination to oily

skin types, this soft emulsion helps hydrate while balancing excess sebum; infused with illuminating gold pearl powders, this primer is perfect for brightening the skin.

Key ingredients: Laminaria extract and silica

aid in controlling oil; chestnut and white willow bark extract smooth the skin; vitamins E and C fend off free radicals; while caffeine calms the skin and reduces redness.

Price: $48

Available now at all MAC counters

cosmeticsmag.com / september 2012

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RoC Enydrial Collection WHAT IT IS: A hypoallergenic moisturizing line for skin in need of hydration WHAT’S INCLUDED: An emollient shower cream that

won’t dry out skin and can be used on both face and body; non-greasy Enydrial Body Lotion, infused with glycerin and shea butter for ultimate moisture; vitamin E-enriched face cream that easily penetrates and immediately leaves skin feeling supple.

THE BENEFITS: Gives dry, itchy skin the relief it needs

by hydrating the skin and helping it retain moisture.

Shu Uemura Tsuya Skin WHAT IT IS: A soft cream-gel-texture serum that revitalizes the look of skin for a more youthful look THE BENEFITS: Smoother, more radiant skin as cells are reactivated; with continued use, yellow tones associated with aging are minimized and skin becomes more resilient.

create a film that reduces the level of water loss to restore moisture levels; glycerin and shea butter restore hydration in the skin and soothing agents calm itchiness.

KEY INGREDIENTS: Rhamnose is the key molecule that boosts cell rejuvenation by reactivating weakened skin cells; it thickens the epidermis while increasing levels of Pro-Collagen 1 so that skin appears youthful.

PRICE: $7 to $24

PRICE: $98

Available September at drugstores across Canada

Available October at Holt Renfrew

KEY INGREDIENTS: Occlusive skin conditioners

NEW IN STORE

SKINCARE

by Christina Ciddio

Lise Watier Age Control Supreme Fluide, Eye Care & Foundation Kiehl’s Rosa Artica Eye

WHAT IT IS: Three new anti-aging products in the Age Control Supreme line

WHAT IT IS: An anti-aging eye treatment that revitalizes the eye area

WHAT’S INCLUDED: Le Fluide, a hydrating moisturizer that firms, smoothes and plumps the skin by improving its elasticity; the lightweight Eye Care that helps reduce wrinkles and lighten dark circles; the new skincare-infused Teint Age Control Supreme, a medium to full coverage foundation available in eight shades that leaves skin comfortable and radiant.

THE BENEFITS: This rich balm immediately

tackles darkness by brightening the skin around the eyes and instantly blurring the look of lines.

KEY INGREDIENTS: Mica and titanium dioxide

brighten; white birch reduces creping and maintains hydration; shea butter, carnauba and cocoa butter help retain moisture; and resurrection flower, a plant grown in harsh conditions and able to survive long dry spells, helps skin look more resilient and firm.

PRICE: $48

Available now at Holt Renfrew

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THE BENEFITS: Wrinkles and lines are diminished in 28 days, and skin is

instantly smoothed and moisturized.

KEY INGREDIENTS: The new additions to Lise Watier’s anti-aging line are

formulated with the powerful antioxidant, Labrador Tea Extract, an antioxidant more active than vitamin C and idebenone.

PRICE: $48 to $78

Le Fluide and Eye Care available now at Lise Watier counters; Teint Age Control Supreme available September at Lise Watier counters

NEW IN STORE

skincare

Origins Plantscription Collection WHAT IT IS: Age-correcting skincare

containing bark extract from the African tree, Anogeissus, known to be a natural healer of wounds THE BENEFITS: Lightweight Plantscription Anti-Aging concealer smoothes the under eye without buildup and reduces the look of lines; radiance-boosting foundation with SPF perfects the skin while adding hydration and UV protection; the hydrating eye cream helps repair and lift while tackling dark circles.

KEY INGREDIENTS: Anogeissus tackles skin concerns associated with aging,

firming contours on the face and eyes and adding a boost of hydration.

PRICE: $21 to $54

Available now at the Bay

Shiseido Bio-Performance Advance Super Restoring Cream Kibio Intemporelle Oleo-cure Concentrate WHAT IT IS: An organic anti-aging duo that diminishes the skin’s signs of aging WHAT’S INCLUDED: Oleo-cure Concentrate, a condensed

treatment that revitalizes skin to appear firmer and feel smoother; Intemporelle Night Cream that leaves skin hydrated, silky and youthful.

KEY INGREDIENTS: Organic oils like rosehip help restructure cells in the dermis and prevent signs of aging; fatty acids from perilla oil protect the outer layer while avocado oil nourishes. The Night Cream is formulated with an amino acid that produces healthy collagen, firms the skin and diminishes the look of wrinkles.

PRICE: $52 to $60

Available October at select Shoppers Drug Mart and Murale

WHAT IT IS: An intense face cream that delivers

reshaping and firming results in one month THE BENEFITS: Shiseido’s Tri-Dynamic Lift reduces

sagging, boosts resilience and tackles deep wrinkles at the dermis level which deteriorates with age; skin is left smooth, firm and moisturized with noticeable results in one week and optimal results after one month.

KEY INGREDIENTS: Inositol, a form of vitamin B

found in plant seeds and grains, along with Super-Bio Yeast, help firm facial contours; Super-Bio Hyaluronic Acid N increases moisture in the skin; Bio-Renewal Complex helps firm and reduce wrinkles.

PRICE: $140

Available September at most drug and department stores

NARS Skin Illuminated WHAT IT IS: An anti-aging line designed to reflect light and transform the complexion WHAT’S INCLUDED: Double Refining Exfoliator goes deep into pores to clear impurities with citrus fruit acids; skin’s brightness is restored and collagen production is boosted with the Luminous Moisture Cream; Total Replenishing Eye Cream reduces fine lines, wrinkles and puffiness with beech bud extract.

KEY INGREDIENTS: Light-active micro-prisms,

along with algae extract and Polynesian seawater, boost the skin’s clarity and add moisture; vitamin C helps brighten and prevent aging while Noni fruit extract targets dark spots.

PRICE: $35 to $85

Available now at Nars counters

cosmeticsmag.com / SEPTEMBER 2012

37

beauty school

Flawless Face From finding the perfect colour to pro application techniques, we get back to foundation basics / by Jill Dunn

38

a drier skin type needs a more hydrating base, like a cream with hyaluronic acid to help attract water and plump the skin, so the foundation sits beautifully and doesn’t settle into lines or wrinkles. post-moisturizer, primers can help smooth your complexion by filling in pores and fine lines, especially on more mature skin. “the idea is to create a neutral canvas,” says Julie cusson, chanel canada national makeup artist. “a common mistake with primer — don’t use shiny or sparkly formulas. You want to keep it as neutral as possible.”

Prime your skin

Be shade savvy

the whole M.o. of foundation is to give the illusion of perfect skin, which means you need a smooth base to start with — no flaky bits in sight. “healthy skin doesn’t have a dry, flat texture,” says greg Wencel, covergirl makeup pro. “it’s supple and smooth. i recommend a facial scrub at least once per week to get that really smooth canvas; more often if you’re oily.” the right moisturizer is key, so be sure your customers know their skin type: a lot of people think foundation isn’t up to task because it fades fast, however their moisturizer is often the culprit for a makeup meltdown. “if you’re very oily, look for an oil-free, mattifying moisturizer in a gel or fluid texture. otherwise, the oils in your skin can cut right through the foundation and it won’t last,” he says. alternatively,

choosing the right colour is probably the biggest stumbling block for customers, particularly if they’re trying to choose a shade from a drugstore wall. no matter what, testing before buying is a must. Swipe it on your cheek, and in natural light. “it should disappear on your skin,” says cusson. “Some people make the mistake of trying to look tan with their foundation, and this is a big no-no.” adds cusson, “test it on the neck or jawline, not on the hands, as your hands are always darker than your face.” She recommends a neutral

september 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

Photo: istockPhoto

Shopping for the right foundation can be one of the most challenging beauty purchases for your customers: it has to suit their skin type, match their skin colour, and provide the right type of coverage without seeming cakey. thankfully, with all of the new and improved foundation formulas — with line-blurring pigments, impeccable coverage and light-reflecting particles — there are better options than ever, so your customers get a seamless shade that truly enhances and doesn’t mask the skin. all that, plus many have skin-boosting benefits like moisturizers, Spf and tone-correcting ingredients built-in to achieve flawless coverage and address skin concerns simultaneously.

Here’s a foundation refresher, and some new products you need to know:

beauty school base with a hint of yellow, not pink. “I’m always cautious of foundation that has a touch of pink, because it can look unnatural. Yellow will neutralize redness.” Wencel says it’s easier to match than ever before. “Years ago, foundations were just one flat colour,” he says. “But now, formulations are a mix of different pigments, so you get a more realistic colour.”

TRIAL & TEXTURE Once you’ve found your colour, choosing a formula — whether powder, fluid or cream — is the next step. Much of this is personal preference, but generally, a powder formula is best for a younger customer since it can absorb excess oil, while more mature skin benefits from a cream formula that contains skin-plumping ingredients, like ceramides or hyaluronic acid. What looks good on nearly everyone? A fluid. “These textures will melt into the skin and give that invisible look,” says Cusson. “It won’t look cakey on dry skin, nor will it make oily skin look too shiny.”

APPLY LIKE A PRO “Often, we have the bad habit of using two or three pumps of liquid foundation for the whole face, but one pump is more than enough,” says Cusson.

Layering and building the colour is key. “I always use my fingers, because I find the action of warming up the foundation with my fingertips and then dabbing it on the skin gives a flawless finish,” she says. “I start with areas of discolouration, like under the eyes and on freckles and then blend out to the other areas,” says Cusson. Adds Wencel, “Do your foundation first, step back and assess, and then add concealer. If you apply concealer first, you’ll use more than you need.” When it comes to tools, again, it’s a matter of taste. “I find a brush gives you more control and allows you to get into all the contours of the face, but a sponge will allow you to put it on more opaque,” says Wencel.

To finish, set with a translucent loose powder. “A fluffy, natural-bristle brush is best, so you don’t disperse too much product,” he says. “You want a really fine veil of powder.” As a finishing step, Cusson relies on primer. “I love to add Le Blanc de Chanel Sheer Illuminating Base on top of the foundation — a touch under the eyes and on the cheekbones. It blends really well with the foundation and the result is amazing.” If foundation starts caking under the eyes through the day, “add a bit of eye cream and then brush a bit of foundation under the eye to refresh the makeup,” says Cusson.

COMPLEXION PERFECTION

Ace your base with one of these new formulas Clarins Skin Illusion Powder Foundation, $47.

Unlike other loose powders that can spill, this brush is tucked away in the cap, so the product stays contained. Light-diffusing pink opal powder adds radiance, while plant extracts hold moisture in the skin for a flawless effect.

Available in 10 shades at Clarins counters

Urban Decay Naked Skin Weightless Ultra Definition Liquid Makeup, $45.

This medium-to-full coverage foundation boasts an oil-free, weightless texture and light-diffusing spheres that blur fine lines and wrinkles. Available in 18 shades at Sephora and select Shoppers Drug Mart

Almay Wake Up Liquid Makeup SPF 20, $17. Aloe vera, cucumber, and green tea extracts soothe the skin, while mineral filters offer SPF 20 skin protection, all in a waterlight, buildable formula. Available in six shades at drugstores

YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat Illuminating Foundation SPF 19, $60. Twenty years in the making, this spinoff of YSL’s famous Touche Éclat is devoid of chalky fillers; instead, you get gel-coated pigments that allow for weightless, medium-to-full coverage that refracts light in all the right places. Available in 16 shades at Holt Renfrew and selected Murale, the Bay, and Sephora stores

Burberry Velvet Foundation Trench Coat Formula, $68. With shades inspired by the iconic Burberry Trench coat, this matte-finish liquid makeup contains water-resistant pigments so that you’re protected from the elements — a “trench” coat for your skin, if you will. Available exclusively at Holt Renfrew in Vancouver and Toronto

Chanel Vitalumière Aqua Compact, $64. For dry skin types, this creamy foundation formula adds loads of moisture to skin (without feeling greasy), delivering colour that seamlessly smoothes over lines, and dries to a velvetlike finish. Available in six shades at Chanel counters

cosmeticsmag.com / SEPTEMBER 2012

39

beauty star

The Makeup Legend Pat McGrath, global creative design director for P&G It’s safe to say that Pat McGrath has one of the coolest jobs in the world. As global creative design director for P&G since 2004, she leads the cosmetics division’s creative design and development, lending her runway and editorial expertise and keen eye for colour on the creation of new products. Despite having no formal training in makeup, she’s created countless boundary-pushing makeup looks for top international runway shows such as Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Prada, Valentino and Stella McCartney. McGrath regularly leads the beauty direction on key ad campaigns for brands like Louis Vuitton, Lanvin and Balenciaga, as well as for top international magazines such as Vogue and Vogue Italia.

Here, McGrath shares with us her beauty must-haves, favourite beauty looks, and how she stays inspired every season.

/ by Kristen Vinakmens

How did you get your start in the beauty business? During my teen years, I started seriously thinking about being a makeup artist. The London club scene was a source of great inspiration and I experimented with doing my own makeup, both for evening and daytime. By the late ’80s and early ‘90s, I was working on editorials at magazines such as The Face, Blitz, and I-D. Who are your muses or icons? I get the chance to work with so many wonderful models, celebrities and beautiful faces. I love the old Hollywood glamour of women like Marilyn Monroe, Marlene Dietrich, Bette Davis, Dorothy Dandridge and Sophia Loren.

You like to use your fingers as opposed to brushes when applying makeup.

Why do you do this? I like to use my fingers opposed to brushes because it allows more control over the pressure against the skin and I can blend better with the heat from my fingers. It’s easy to apply foundation, concealer and eyeshadow with your fingers and you can smudge or even out pigment as desired.

Your work is very painterly. Are you inspired by painters and art? I find inspiration in everything around me and it varies on a daily basis. I have a huge collection of photography, art, history and design books, as well as hundreds of films and magazines I use as reference.

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beauty star Who has had the most influence on your career as a makeup artist?

My passion for makeup started with my mother, who was obsessed with both fashion and makeup. From a very young age, she trained my eye to recognize details in makeup, and we would spend hours researching makeup for black skin and mixing colours. We’d watch old films from the ‘30s, ‘40s and ‘50s together and she was an extensive collector of everything.

What is your favourite runway beauty look ever? I can never choose my favourite look as there have been so many throughout the years.

I loved many of the looks this season: On some of the runways, there was a strong trend of subversive chic looks inspired by Rooney Mara.

For example, the attention to bare skin with a bleached brow gave the appearance of otherworldly beauty at Calvin Klein, while at Versace, the graphic smoky eyes tapped into the punk theme of the movie [The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo]. Illustrated eyes, like those at Miu Miu, were hard to miss, with eye colour that had been drawn on in graphic pop art-inspired shapes.

What advice would you give someone who is just starting out in the beauty business? Assist a working makeup artist or someone who has a lot of experience in the industry. Even if you have to clean their brushes all day-long, it will be an invaluable experience and you’ll be privy to insider tricks, tips and decorum.

How do you stay inspired each season to come to the table with something fresh and new? I am a shopaholic, so I love turning up at the best designer houses and seeing 12,000 handbags, 4,000 boots, 9,000 jackets — you are inspired, along with the stories the designers tell you.

I’m surrounded by such creativity. Also working at P&G and using the fabulous new products, you just can’t help but get excited.

Makeup master tricks The Perfect Lip. To prevent matte lipstick from looking dry, exfoliate lips with your fingers using a gentle exfoliant. Apply a touch of foundation on your lips, then add pressed powder for staying power and to keep lips from bleeding. Afterwards, use a lip pencil and outline the lip, filling in the entire mouth. CoverGirl LipPerfection Lip Color is a lovely lipstick choice for healthy-looking lips in a variety of rich colours.

Smooth Skin. The first step to covering up large pores is with a proper skincare regimen. Cold compress your skin to minimize pores and intensely hydrate. After, apply foundation, then use CoverGirl & Olay Simply Ageless Concealer for the end result to perfected pores.

Foolproof Foundation. Most department stores have artificial light, so it’s best to test foundations in natural daylight. Match the colour by placing one stripe on the jawline for the most natural look, but if the body is darker than the face, make sure to match the foundation to the legs, chest, and arms to avoid mismatching. Always remember to spread foundation all the way down to your neck to blend evenly. The correct colour tone will naturally disappear into your face.

Pat’s Top 5 Makeup Must-Haves

1 Flawless, polished skin is important for any woman’s makeup regimen.

CoverGirl & Olay Tone Rehab 2-in-1 Foundation is an easy-to-apply, lightweight formula that goes on smoothly and covers all imperfections.

2 For a fresh, glowing complexion, blend a cream blush such as CoverGirl & Olay Simply Ageless Sculpting Blush in Lush Berry (for lighter skin tones) or Rich Cinnamon (for darker skin tones) along the cheekbones and temple.

3 Another great basic: a versatile, flattering eye shadow. CoverGirl Intense Shadow Blast in Beige Blaze is a rich, waterproof shadow with a built-in primer that can be worn as a highlighter as well. The pearlescent formula really brightens up the eyes.

5

4 To accentuate your eye shape, add CoverGirl LineBlast 24 Hour Eyeliner at the top lash line for long-lasting wear and finish off with a coat of CoverGirl 24 Hour LashBlast Mascara in Black.

Every makeup bag isn’t complete without a multifaceted lip colour. Try CoverGirl Blast Flipstick Lipcolor to create many looks. It has a variety of shades to choose from with a cream shade on one side and an iridescent colour on the other.

cosmeticsmag.com / september 2012

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cover story

Ginger Spice As YSL celebrates 35 years of Opium, its fragrance face Emily Blunt speaks about elegance, pushing boundaries, and her love of imperfection

PhOtO: PAtrick demArcheLier fOr YveS SAint LAurent

/ by Kristen Vinakmens

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cover story

E

mily Blunt has a face that’s not of this time but at once totally modern. she possesses a natural luminosity and sense of regality that’s usually only seen in Renaissance paintings, but that also reveals a timeless elegance. it’s perhaps why she can just as easily slip into period roles such as Queen Victoria in The Young Victoria as she can take on the character of present-day, scrappy fashion diva emily in The Devil Wears Prada. so it makes perfect sense that Blunt was cast last year as the face of yves saint laurent’s opium fragrance, which celebrates its 35th anniversary this year. “to be the face of this brand is a real honour, and i don’t take it lightly,” she says. “i feel like [opium] is a timeless, elegant brand, and one that has never shied away from taboo.” indeed, almost from day one of its launch in 1977, the heady, spicy scent has been met with controversy, from its suggestive name to the 2000 ad campaign featuring a nude sophie Dahl apparently in the throes of ecstasy.

But neither firestorm seemed to affect sales; opium has flourished despite, and possibly because of, its penchant for pushing the envelope.

While not as provocative as its predecessor, the latest campaign doesn’t shy way from the brand’s Dna. in the ads, Blunt personifies a powerful femme fatale who stalks her way through an opulent mansion adorned in red and gold — opium’s signature colours — on the hunt for the addictive scent. While Blunt may be sweet and funny in real life, in the opium campaign, she is “Queen of the night,” a sultry vixen, but not overtly so, which, it turns out, mirrors her definition of elegance. “someone who is really elegant expresses a sort of freedom,” she says. “it’s someone who breathes life into what they do and what they wear and how they move — i think that’s real elegance.”

Blunt took on the role with gusto, and envisioned the part like any other she plays in her films, likening it to “interpreting a character.” she says further: “i love talking about fragrance, i love talking about sensory experiences, and i guess that’s why i like to act.” Blunt has many characters to interpret of late, and her star has been on the rise since the days of The Devil Wears Prada. capping off a year that included the romantic comedies Salmon Fishing in the Yemen with ewan mcGregor and The Five-Year Engagement with Jason segel, her latest roles have her looking towards the future, quite literally. in september, Blunt stars with Joseph Gordon-levitt and Bruce Willis in the futuristic mob story Looper, set in

Opium: History of an icon The original Opium was created by Jean-Louis Sieuzac in 1977, and inspired by Yves Saint Laurent’s Asian-influenced fashions. With its scandalous name, Opium caused a sensation prior to its 1978 U.S. launch. The juice, with notes of mandarin, bergamot, jasmine, myrrh and patchouli, hasn’t changed, but the scent has spawned various iterations, most recently with Opium Vapeurs de Parfum. In 2010, YSL artistic director Stefano Pilati recast the Opium bottle in frosted glass in a shape inspired by Inro (lidded boxes worn by far Eastern warriors).

Emily’s BEauty Picks

YSL Touche Éclat, $50

Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage, $35

YSL Teint Radiance Foundation, $65

YSL Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils Shocking, $36

the year 2072; and in her most recent undertaking, she goes toe-to-toe with tom cruise in the sci-fi action film All You Need is Kill, set for a 2013 release date. even with her busy acting schedule, Blunt still takes time out for some skincare tlc. “every day, i cleanse, tone, put on serum and moisturizer — and sunscreen, because i live in los angeles. every single day,” she says. “and every night, no matter if i’ve been out with my friends, or if it’s late, i always take my makeup off. it’s something my mom really taught me.” adds Blunt, “When you’re shooting a movie, and you’re getting your face made up every day, your skin gets more and more clogged, and i could see the damage that it was doing.” Blunt’s go-to facialist in l.a., Biba de sousa, turned her on to supplements, and the actress now regularly takes glucosamine sulfate, hyaluronic acid and vitamins c and B. “it completely changed my skin,” she says. as much as maintaining her appearance is part and parcel of her job, Blunt is a true believer that beauty comes from within. “i know that it’s a cliché to say, but i think people who spend too much time trying to look perfect lose some sort of magic,” she says, adding, “i love imperfection. i love seeing that every line on someone’s face has come from something. i wonder about the story behind the lines on the face. i think that is the real beauty.”

cosmeticsmag.com / september 2012

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nEW In sTorE

FRAGRANCE

by Christina Ciddio

Lanvin Éclat D’Arpège Jo Malone Blackberry & Bay Gourmandise A fruity-floral scent for her

A fruity, fresh citrus scent for her

A warm floral for her

Notes:

Notes:

Notes:

Top: Lilac and lemon Heart: Green tea leaves, peach leaves and peonies Base: White cedarwood, white musk and amber

Top: Blackberry and grapefruit Heart: Bay leaves Base: Vetiver and cedarwood

Top: Iris, blackcurrant and pear Heart: Iris, jasmine, orange blossom and patchouli Base: Vanilla, Tonka bean and praline

Fast Facts:

Lanvin is one of the oldest Parisian fashion houses; it was founded in 1889; The first Éclat D’Arpège fragrance was released in 2003.

Eau de Parfum: 50ml, $95 Available now at Ogilvy

Fast Facts:

The soft and innocent scent is inspired by childhood memories of berry picking; Jo Malone fragrances can be layered using the Fragrance Combining Menu, so that everyone can design their own signature scent.

Eau du Cologne: 30ml, $70; 100ml, $125 Body Crème: 175ml, $90 Body & Hand Wash: 250ml, $65 Available September at Holt Renfrew

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Lancôme La Vie Est Belle

september 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

Fast Facts:

La Vie Est Belle contains almost 50% natural ingredients; the simple, elegant bottle is a revamp of a 1949 design by Lancôme founder Armand Petitjean.

Eau de Parfum: 30ml, $72; 50ml, $95; 75ml, $109 Available now at all Lancôme counters

new in store

Fan di Fendi Extreme A vibrant citrus with soft woody facets for her

Aura by Swarovski Eau de Toilette A fresh floral for her

fragrance

Chanel Coco Noir

A spicy, fresh feminine scent for her

Notes:

Notes:

Notes:

Top: Calabrian bergamot and tangerine Heart: Tuberose absolute and jasmine sambac Base: Leather, vanilla absolute and patchouli

Top: Lychee Heart: White jasmine Base: Rose

Top: Grapefruit and bergamot Heart: Jasmine, rose and narcissus and rose geranium leaf Base: Tonka bean, patchouli, sandalwood, bourbon vanilla and frankincense

Fast Facts:

The iconic Fendi Forever buckle is embossed on the gold bottle in an elegant black lacquer; head perfumer at Dior, François Demachy, alongside Delphine Lebeau-Krowiak, created the oriental-floral-based Fan di Fendi Extreme.

Eau de Parfum: 75ml, $111 Available now at select the Bay stores

Fast Facts:

‘Aura’ is a poetic word that designates someone’s glow and spirit and reflects the light of Swarovski’s exclusive crystals; Aura is a soft version of the Eau to Parfum and comes in a bottle with a crystal set on top, designed to reflect Swarovski light.

Fast Facts:

Eau de Toilette: 75ml, $96

Coco Noir is inspired by Gabrielle Chanel’s love of black and Venice, Italy, where she travelled to mourn the death of her one love, Boy Capel; it’s been 11 years since the last Coco fragrance was launched in 2001, with Coco Mademoiselle.

Available now at select the Bay stores

Eau de Parfum: 50ml, $112; 100ml, $158 Available now at all Chanel Beauty counters

cosmeticsmag.com / september 2012

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fragrance

Guess Seductive Homme Blue

A crisp, aquatic scent for him

A woodsy floral scent for her

An ambery floral for her

Notes:

Notes:

Notes:

Top: Citrus caviar, cardamon and black pepper Heart: Blue coral aquaspace and geranium Base: Cashmere wood, rippled sand and musk

Top: Wild raspberry, water lily and ozonic accord Heart: Fougère accord, violet flowers, mimosa and cedarwood Base: Vanilla bean, mahogany wood and cashmere musk

Top: Lemon and bergamot Heart: Sambava vanilla, rose, jasmine and iris Base: Incense, opoponax and Tonka bean

Fast Facts:

Fast Facts:

The bottle is designed with the tread pattern that mimics the links of a Guess watch band; Italian model Luca Loy and Victoria’s Secret model Leticia Zuloaga play in the sensual ads for Seductive Homme Blue.

The fragrance incorporates mimosa, which is one of Halle’s favourite flowers; Closer is Halle’s fifth fragrance; her first, Halle by Halle Berry, launched in 2009.

Shalimar Ode à la Vanille was created

by Thierry Wasser on his journey to Madagascar where he orchestrated a new vanilla-infused Shalimar using Sambava vanilla; Sambava vanilla takes about 18 months to infuse its full aromas.

Eau de Toilette: 50ml, $59; 100ml, $75

Available now at drugstores and mass retailers

Available now at Sears and drugstores

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Closer by Halle Berry

Guerlain Shalimar Ode à la Vanille

september 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

Eau de Parfum: 30ml, $35

Fast Facts:

Eau de Parfum: 50ml, $110 Available October at select Guerlain counters

shalimar photo, stEphEN FErriE

new in store

new in store

Marc Jacobs Dot A succulent floral for her

Givenchy Play For Her Color Edition A fresh, musky scent for her

fragrance

Van Cleef & Arpels First Limited Edition A warm floral for her

Notes:

Notes:

Notes:

Top: Red berries, dragon fruit and honeysuckle Heart: Jasmine, coconut water and orange blossom Base: Vanilla, driftwood and musk

Top: Amyris wood and tiare flower Heart: White peach and pink peppercorn Base: Sandalwood and musk

Jasmine, white frangipani, mimosa, vanilla, iris and praline

Fast Facts:

The Play for Her bottle comes in sleek white accompanied by peel-off stickers for the ultimate customized bottle with designs by well-known street artist, André Saraiva; inspired by his flight from Paris to New York, Saraiva imbues the spirit of the Play for Her fragrance with his joie de vivre lifestyle.

What began as a romance between a stonecutter’s daughter, Estelle Arpels, and a precious stone dealer’s son, Alfred Van Cleef, Van Cleef & Arpels became a luxury brand creating fine jewelry, watches and perfumes from the start of 1906 in Place Vendôme, Paris; First was originally created in 1976 to reflect a jeweler’s fragrance with a bottle inspired by a Van Cleef & Arpels earring.

Eau de Parfum: 50ml, $80

Eau de Parfum: 100ml, $125

Available now exclusively at the Bay

Available October at the Bay and Ogilvy

This fragrance was inspired by Marc Jacobs’ love of polka dots, which he featured in his first collection; the bottle was designed in collaboration with Japanese artist Sayuri Shoji.

Eau de Parfum: 50ml, $79; 100ml, $105 Body Lotion: 150ml, $49 Available now at drug and department stores. Body Lotion exclusively available at the Bay, Holt Renfrew and Murale

Fast Facts:

Fast Facts:

cosmeticsmag.com / september 2012

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NEW IN STORE

fragrance

Givenchy Dahlia Noir

A floral, woody scent for her

Iconic fragrances enveloped in facets of leather for him and her

Crabtree & Evelyn Himalayan Blue EDT An exotic, fresh scent for her

NOTES:

NOTES:

NOTES:

Eau de Parfum Floral Femininity: Rose, iris, mimosa; Powdery Sensuality: Iris, Tonka bean, mimosa; Woody Power: Sandalwood, patchouli

Angel Eau de Toilette: Iris and apricot Alien Eau de Parfum: Jasmine, wood and amber Womanity Eau de Parfum: Fig, caviar, amber and labdanum A*Men Eau de Parfum: Patchouli, Arabica coffee and vanilla

Top: Mandarin, orange leaf and lemon Heart: Ginger, rose absolute, pink pepper, Himalayan golden champaca blossoms and wildflowers Base: Lapsang souchong and sandalwood

FAST FACTS:

The bottle’s pearlized finish alludes to the enchanting view of the Himalayas.

It’s adorned with a silver flower charm around the neck, which represents the blue poppy found by British explorers who arrived at the Himalayas; Crabtree & Evelyn was originally founded in 1972 and started as a family business that specialized in fine soaps.

Eau de Toilette Floral Radiance: Pink pepper, mandarin, cedrat; Fruity Transparency: Rose, peach, cedarwood; Woody Seduction: Sandalwood, amber, vanilla FAST FACTS:

The words “Dahlia Noir” are not imprinted on the glass but once the cap is removed, beneath it on a silvery metal plaque, the inscription is revealed; this is the first fragrance designed for Givenchy by creative director Riccardo Tisci.

Eau de Parfum: 50ml, $104; 75ml, $124 Eau de Toilette: 50ml, $77; 75ml, $90 Available September at the Bay, Shoppers Drug Mart and Sephora

48

Thierry Mugler Fragrances of Leather Limited Edition

SEPTEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

All of the fragrances in this collection are enhanced and matured in vats for four weeks using the finest, authentic raw leather; Thierry Mugler’s first fragrance launched 20 years ago in 1992 with Angel Eau de Parfum.

Angel Eau de Toilette: 30ml, $106 Alien Eau de Parfum: 30ml, $106 Womanity Eau de Parfum: 30ml, $106 A*Men Eau de Parfum: 100ml, $99 Available September at the Bay, Ogilvy, Murale and Shoppers Drug Mart

FAST FACTS:

Eau de Toilette: 30ml, $25; 100ml, $45 Available September at Crabtree & Evelyn locations

new in store

Jaïpur Bracelet

by Boucheron A woody floral for her

Replica Maison Martin Margiela Collection

A collection of light, sweet floral fragrances for her

fragrance

Burberry Body Eau de Toilette

A crisp, woodsy floral for her

NOTeS:

Beach Walk NOTeS:

NOTeS:

Top: Bigarade petit grain, basil verbena and violet leaves Heart: Carnation flowers, hyacinth and lily of the valley Base: Cypress, cashmere and orris concrete

Top: Bergamot, lemon and pink pepper Heart: Ylang ylang Base: Coconut milk, musk and heliotrope

Top: Green apple, peach and green absinthe Heart: Tea, rose absolute and sandalwood Base: Cashmeran, vanilla, musk and amber

FaST FacTS:

Rajasthan, The Pink City, inspired the bottle’s design with its pale pink-tinted glass; pink is the colour signifying “welcome”; the bottle is shaped like a cabochon, a polished stone found on traditional Indian rings and bracelets.

Eau de Parfum: 50ml, $112; 100ml, $168 Body Lotion Pump: 200ml, $80 Bath & Shower Gel Pump: 200ml, $60 Body Cream Jar: 200ml, $110 Available now at select the Bay stores

FaNFair eveNiNg NOTeS:

Top: Apple and star anise Heart: Caramel and orange blossom Base: Musk, amber and petitgrain FlOral MarkeT NOTeS:

Top: Freesia and Grasse rose petals Heart: Sambac jasmine and tuberose Base: Cedar and moss FaST FacTS:

This fresh eau de toilette collection by Maison Martin Margiela was created to awaken our memories of particular places and times; the Replica collection is inspired by apothecary jars, adorned with cotton labels reflective of tags used on clothing.

FaST FacTS:

The campaign features British actress and model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, shot by world-renowned photographer, Mario Testino; the new fragrance is a softer, lighter version of the original Burberry Body fragrance, with two new scent notes, green apple and tea.

Eau de Toilette: 60ml, $82 Available now at the Bay, Sears, Holt Renfrew, Sephora, Ogilvy, Shoppers Drug Mart and Murale

Eau de Toilette: 100ml, $100 each Available October exclusively at the Bay

cosmeticsmag.com / september 2012

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Vendor SponSorS

CELEBRATING THE 2012 MEN’S AND WOMEN’S FRAGRANCE LAUNCHES OF THE YEAR

AWARD CATEGORIES

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

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13.

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15.

C O S M É T I Q U E S

Best Niche Launch – Men’s or Women’s – under 10 stores Best Luxe Launch – Women’s – 10 – 50 Stores Best Luxe Launch – Men’s – 10 – 50 Stores Best Limited Launch – Women’s – 50 – 250 Stores Best Limited Launch – Men’s – 50 – 250 Stores Best Full Market Launch – Women’s – over 250 Stores Best Full Market Launch – Men’s – over 250 Stores Best Private Label/Direct Sell Launch – Men’s or Women’s Best Print Media Editorial – Canadian Magazine/Newspapers Best Broadcast Media Editorial – Television and Web Hall of Fame Award – Women’s Hall of Fame Award – Men’s Lifetime Achievement Award Best Scent – Judge’s Choice Consumer’s Choice Award

If you launched a new fragrance in 2012 and would like to nominate it for the Canadian Fragrance Awards, please contact Jillian Vieira at 416-764-2498 An official nomination binder will be sent to your attention Nominations will be accepted in December 2012 Next Year’s Event: Thursday April 25, 2013 – Marriott Chateau Champlain Hotel, Montreal, Quebec.

MEDIA SPONSORS

RETAIL SPONSORS TM|MC

SPONSORS

trend report

Photo courtesy of mac

from boyishly beautiful to sweet and sexy, we cover the spectrum of beauty trends hot off the fall runways / by Jillian Vieira

Trending: Fall 2012 Beauty cosmeticsmag.com / september 2012

51

trend report

NICOLE FARHI

SPOTTED AT: Chloé Comme Parris, David Dixon, Etro, Nicole Farhi, Pink Tartan, Yves Saint Laurent

ETRO

Fifty shades of red appeared on the fall runways, most notably in the form of a vampy burgundy hue. An homage to gothic romanticism, the moody lip colour was the focus at fashion capitals around the world. Toronto Fashion Week, headed by Grace Lee, Maybelline’s lead makeup artist in Canada, saw its fair share of wine-hued lips, which varied in application. To get the super-saturated, oxblood lip at Pink Tartan, Lee carefully traced and filled in the lips with a liner before layering a deep purple lipstick with a brush. At David Dixon, who took on an unusually dark theme at his Alfred Hitchcock’s The Birds-inspired show, Lee opted for a glossy, blackberry-stained lip. “David asked for a dark lip, but still wanted the girls to look pretty,” she says. Lee delivered this delicate balance by blending eggplant-hued gel eyeliner to the middle of the lip, which added dimension to the deep red lipstick.

PINK TARTAN

GET THE LOOK From top: Maybelline EyeStudio Lasting Drama Gel Eyeliner in Eggplant; Maybelline SuperStay 14-Hour Lipstick in Wine and Forever DAVID DIXON

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SEPTEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

ETRO AND NICOLE FARHI PHOTOS COURTESY OF MAC; DAVID DIXON AND PINK TARTAN PHOTOS COURTESY OF MAYBELLINE

Wine-Hued Lips

trend report

Get the Look From left: MAC Prep + Prime Skin Smoother; MAC 217 Blending Brush

Bare Boned Spotted at: Acne, Alexander Wang, Balmain, Carolina Herrera, Giles, Tommy Hilfiger

alexander wang Tommy Hilfiger

Carolina Herrera

PHoTos CourTesy of mAC

gileS

Fresh-faced, bordering on boyish beauty was a distinct message at many shows this season. The look was as au naturel as could be: clean, porcelain skin and hollowed-out cheeks anchored by naturally shaped, yet strong brows.

But make no mistake: these natural complexions weren’t achieved without a few skin-perfecting techniques. “The key here is what you apply to your face before you put on any makeup,” says Melissa Gibson, a MAC Cosmetics senior artist, who worked backstage at a number of shows, including Tommy Hilfiger, Theyskens’ Theory and Monique Lhuillier. “With the technology we have today, pictureperfect skin doesn’t have to mean using foundation,” she says. Try a moisturizer with a slight iridescence (to give the effect of plumper skin) and a two-in-one face prep and primer, which softens the skin and evens out tone. To get the contoured cheekbones seen on the doll-like catwalkers at Carolina Herrera, Gibson suggests finding a powder that’s a shade or two deeper than your own skin tone.

“Blend with a small, fluffy eyeshadow brush, instead of a larger face brush, to get a seamless, gradated look,” she says. Lashes were left bare at many of the shows, but if skipping out on all eye makeup has you feeling weary, make use of a lash curler and clear brow gel — you’ll still get a lustrous, wide-eyed gaze without the added pigment.

cosmeticsmag.com / september 2012

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trend report

JEREMY LAING

Positively Pretty SPOTTED AT: DKNY, Jeremy Laing, Joe Fresh, Oscar de la Renta, Preen, Vivienne Tam The spring runways paid tribute to the classic English rose with her porcelain skin and bright, girlish features. Other-era-inspired beauty was highlighted at Preen and Jeremy Laing’s Toronto show, where washes of pink on the cheeks were echoed on the eyes. In New York, Oscar de la Renta’s vision of a playful, yet proper woman was brought to life by Revlon global artistic director Gucci Westman, who wanted the makeup to be “gorgeous, but still look a little bit disheveled.” Here, a soft, creamy lip, painted on using a tinted balm in caramel and apricot hues, complemented in-from-the-cold cheeks. At Joe Fresh, whose collection was inspired by the mod 1966 movie Blow-Up, Grace Lee amped up the models’ lashes with three different mascaras and created a fresh flush on the cheeks with pink and peach tones. The girls also sported a healthy glow thanks to a combination of a clear lip balm and a metallic white shadow applied to the cheekbones with a soft brush. “You get a dewy highlight that glistens on the skin without looking frosty,” she says.

JOE FRESH

GET THE LOOK Clockwise, from top left: Maybelline Color Tattoo in Too Cool; Revlon PhotoReady Sculpting Blush Palette in Pink; Maybelline Baby Lips in Quenched; Revlon ColorBurst Lip Butter in Creamsicle

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SEPTEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

PREEN AND OSCAR DE LA RENTA PHOTOS, AMANDA SCHWAB/STARPIX; JOE FRESH PHOTO COURTESY OF MAYBELLINE; JEREMY LAING PHOTO COURTESY OF COVERGIRL

PREEN

trend report Get the Look From left: CoverGirl Lash Perfection Mascara in Very Black; MAC Pigment in Old Gold

Good as Gold Spotted at: Alexandre Herchcovitch, Badgley Mischka, Barbara Bui, Ruffian

AlexAndRe HeRcHcovitcH, BAdgley MiscHkA And BARBARA Bui pHotos couRtesy of MAc; RuffiAn pHoto couRtesy of coveRgiRl

alexaNdRe heRchcovitch

Badgley Mischka

All that glittered was gold on the fall runways with the focus on highlighting the eye. At Alexandre Herchcovitch, a black kohl liner defined the gilded hue, which wrapped from under the eye to just below the crease. A striking rose gold shadow was swept under the eye at Badgley Mischka for a goddesslike feel. To achieve this romantic look, makeup artist Tom Pecheux, working for MAC, lined the models’ bottom lashes with a loose shadow in a bright gold shade. “The payoff on the skin is fantastic with a loose powder,” says Gibson. “What you see is what you get.” Bolder types can take the metallic hue right up to the brow bone, as seen on the Ruffian runway in Toronto.

“The designers wanted the girls to look like old-school mobsters with a Studio 54/ Bianca Jagger kind of feeling,” said CoverGirl makeup pro Greg Wencel of the makeup inspiration. He added depth to the glamorous all-gold eye by contouring with smoky brown shadows while layering a volumizing mascara for the boldest lashes.

RUFFiaN

BaRBaRa BUi

cosmeticsmag.com / september 2012

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trend report

Get the Look MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack

Mary Katrantzou

Out of Line Spotted at: Aquascutum, Erdem, Kenzo, L.A.M.B., Mary Katrantzou, VAWK

aquascutuM

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september 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

erdeM

Kenzo

Photos courtEsy of MAc

Step aside, classic cat-eye: this season’s eyeliner is anything but subtle. Graphic and angular in design, black liner was uprooted from its usual territory on the lashline to elsewhere on the eye.

Tiny, elongated triangles adorned the corners of the eyes at Erdem, while the models at Aquascutum sported a geometric look with an imperfect, faded effect that reached up to the crease. Despite their dramatic results, these liner looks can be really wearable, says Gibson. Arm yourself with a smooth, gel liner and a precision-tip brush to get the finest, most symmetrical lines. “It’s important to get to know your eye shape and practice applying before you make a debut,” she says. Another pro tip: attempt these looks before you apply your foundation, so you can clean up any unpolished edges.

trend report

JOY CIOCI

Texturized Nails THE BLONDS, JOY CIOCI AND RACHEL ANTONOFF PHOTOS COURTESY OF CND; CALLA PHOTO COURTESY OF MINX NAILS

SPOTTED AT: The Blonds, Calla, Joy Cioci, Pamela Love, Rachel Antonoff The fall runways showcased a bevy of anything-but-ordinary nail art inspired by textures. Glitter, glass shards and leather adorned the nails at The Blonds’ “biker chic” show, while neutral, almond-shaped nails tipped with black fishnet material, created by CND’s Candice Manacchio, were on display at Joy Cioci. The “roughlooking, but glamorous” ombré nails at Pamela Love faded from dark chocolate brown to a sparkly gold at the tip created with Essie’s “Little Brown Dress” and “As Gold As It Gets” lacquers. At Calla, the models wore customized Minx nail coatings, including ones that mimicked black and white marble, which worked in harmony with the collection’s eye-popping digital prints. Amongst their wild counterparts, other catwalks saw more traditional nail colour trends like barelythere, feminine neutrals at Victoria Beckham, Theyskens’ Theory and Tory Burch, as well as metallic manis, including high-shine silver at Behnaz Sarafpour and rose gold at Alexandre Herchcovitch.

THE BLONDS

RACHEL ANTONOFF

GET THE LOOK From left: Revlon Nail Art Moon Candy Nail Enamel in Satellite; Essie Nail Lacquer in As Gold As It Gets

CALLA

cosmeticsmag.com / SEPTEMBER 2012

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PHOTOGRAPHER: GABOR JURINA

CELEBRATING 35 YEARS

OF BRINGING THE WORLD OF FASHION HOME

Get the latest style news delivered to your inbox at

FASHIONMAGAZINE.COM/SIGNUP TWITTER@FASHIONCANADA

FACEBOOK@FASHIONMAGAZINE

COSMETICS AT 40

Crowning Achievement

40

As Cosmetics celebrates 40 years, we honour the brands marking their own milestones / by Kristen Vinakmens

years

Lise Watier

When it comes to Lise Watier, it’s hard to separate the woman from the brand; her vision, and the message behind the makeup, is of female empowerment. After serving as a television host in the late 1960s, where she learned makeup artist tricks and techniques, she founded the Lise Watier Institute in 1968, a space dedicated to giving women advice on beauty and self-esteem. That culminated into a product line, Lise Watier Cosmétiques: the little company that could amongst a sea of big corporations. Today, the brand is popular not only in Canada, but all over the world. “Cosmetics became the tools with which to celebrate the unique beauty of women, to foster a greater feeling of self-confidence,” she recalls. Years later, Watier has become an icon and role model for women, receiving honours including the Order of Canada and recognition as Officer of the National Order of Quebec. Inspired to give back, the makeup guru founded the non-profit Lise Watier Foundation in 2009, an organization that provides financial support for underprivileged young women to help them realize their dreams. In 2010, Watier took her zest for philanthropy a step further and opened the Lise Watier Pavilion to provide social housing to women in need. And when it comes to Watier’s products, they speak for themselves: Rouge Gourmand Lipstick is number one in Canada, while one of Waterproof Eyeliner sells somewhere every three minutes. Says Watier: “My priority has always been quality, creativity, innovation and respect for my consumers.”

cosmeticsmag.com / september 2012

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20 COSMETICS AT 40

years

Look Good FeeL Better

60

september 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

NeoStrata

With its minimalist, dermatologist-line-inspired packaging, NeoStrata was ahead of the curve when it first came on the scene in 1992. While glycolic acid was discovered in the 1970s, NeoStrata was the first company to bring its skin-perfecting benefits (usually only previously available through doctors’ offices) to the mass market with the launch of three products: Smoothing Cream, Toning Solution and All-in-One Gel Cleanser. As the company grew, it began researching other ingredients and sourcing technologies from around the globe to expand its product portfolio.

In 2000, NeoStrata unveiled its first non-AHA products such as the Anti-Wrinkle Night Complex, which contained the highest amount of retinol on the market, and Dark Circle Night Serum, capsules containing a potent combo of retinol and vitamin K. Channeling its cachet as the first Canadian “cosmeceutical” brand, in 2004, NeoStrata launched at-home peel and microdermabrasion kits, making expensive derm-office procedures easily accessible. Its Wrinkle Repair line, the first to combine potent anti-agers retinol and Matrixyl, launched in 2006, and quickly became a best seller. The last year alone has seen major innovation for the brand, with the release of a men’s skincare line and stem-cell-powered anti-aging products. Acquired by Sanofi Consumer Health in 2010, NeoStrata, a hit with beauty advisors and editors alike, is now sold in more than 70 countries around the world.

look good feel better photo by gilles motard

Beauty advisors know more than anyone how a little boost to one’s appearance, whether it’s swiping on a bright red lipstick or rocking a perfect cat-eye, can make a bad day turn around in no time. That’s the premise behind Look Good Feel Better (LGFB), a charitable foundation launched by the Canadian Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association in 1992, as a way to lift the spirits of women dealing with cancer and its effects on their appearance. At the heart of the charity is a free, two-hour hands-on workshop in which women learn the ins and outs of skincare and makeup application as well as hair alternatives (such as wigs and scarves) from cosmetic and hair pros. The very first workshop was held at Princess Margaret Hospital 20 years ago and the program has become such a success that similar sessions are now held at more than 100 hospitals and cancer care facilities across Canada. LGFB also publishes a yearly magazine packed with makeup and hair tips, along with inspiring stories from women living with cancer and those who beat it. In 2010, the foundation launched a companion website — facingcancer.ca — to provide a cancer information hub and an online support group for women.

That same year, LGFB released a range of “Tamara Wigs” inspired by a little girl named Tamara who wrote a letter, along with a lock of her long, brown hair, in support of the foundation. To date, LGFB’s beauty pros have helped more than 130,000 women look and feel just a little bit better.

40 YEARS OF CELEBRATING BEAUTY In 2012, Lise Watier Cosmétiques celebrates 40 years of beauty, innovation and passion in providing women with makeup, skincare products and fragrances. This anniversary is the perfect opportunity to highlight the work of this entrepreneurial businesswoman.

You are woman.

You are beautiful.

You are unique.

- Lise Watier THE WOMAN BEHIND LISE WATIER COSMÉTIQUES Lise Watier was born in the Hochelaga-Maisonneuve district of Montreal. From her stylish, well-groomed mother, Lise Watier developed a taste for beauty and quality at an early age.

One day, when accompanying a friend to an audition at TéléMétropole, Madame Watier was spotted by a television producer.

That chance encounter got her into commercials, which she did for several months before being offered her own television show.

She soon became Quebec’s leading voice on women’s issues and concerns.

BREAKTHROUGHS AND INNOVATIONS The company has stayed at the forefront of the latest in scientific research and collaborates with the world’s leading cosmetics laboratories. The ingredients and elements used to formulate each product are carefully chosen and are ofen the result of revolutionary discoveries.

Through interactions with her loyal female viewing audience, Madame Watier gained a firmer sense of her vocation: to help women enhance their self-worth and develop the confidence that makes them beautiful. Madame Watier lef television and in 1968, opened the Lise Watier Institute, and in 1972 founded Lise Watier Cosmétiques.

Lise Watier’s extraordinary perseverance and determination as a pioneering entrepreneur were revered in Quebec. She has also received numerous awards. Madame Watier was nominated “Man of the Month” in February 1983, appointed Member of the Order of Canada in 1991 and Officer of the National Order of Quebec in 2000. In October 2010, the Université du Québec à Montréal bestowed a PhD honoris causa upon Madame Watier.

Within the beauty industry in which she has thrived for over 40 years, Lise Watier is considered an icon.

Five years of research have gone into developing an exclusive extraction process that concentrates all the exceptional anti-aging properties of Labrador Tea. Today, this extract lies at the heart of AGE CONTROL SUPREME, a new line of premium skincare and makeup products from Lise Watier.

Lise Watier Cosmétiques would like to congratulate COSMETICS Magazine on their 40th anniversary.

Thank you to beauty advisors everywhere for 40 years of beauty.

LOVE IT NEED IT GOTTA HAVE IT

# 1 liquid foundation in Canada!* BASE MIRACLE Pore Minimizing Primer

Just a few of the #1 products from Lise Watier.

Canada’ s # 1 corrector!*

24 HRS GLAM MASCARA

Lise Watier consumers’ favourite!**

PORTFOLIO Professional Correctors

TEINT LIFT ANTI-RIDES SPF 20

One of a kind in Canada!

HAVANA Bronzing Powder FÉLINE EYELINER HD

# 1 lipstick in Canada!*

DUO SHADOW & GLITTER Fard à paupières et paillettes

ROUGE GOURMAND Lipstick

Canada’ s best sellers: one sold every 3 minutes!*

WATERPROOF EYELINER AND LIP CRAYON Canadians’ favourite

LISEWATIER.COM *AC Nielsen Market Track, National, Prestige, 52 weeks, period ending May 5th, 2012. **Lise Watier sales in dollars.

COSMETICS AT 40

45years

ANNABELLE COSMETICS

Edgy, highly pigmented makeup shades can be hard to come by at the drugstore, but Annabelle, the Quebec-based beauty brand, has never been shy about colour. Founded in 1967 by a Montrealer who named the brand after his mother-in-law Annabel, it was later coined “Annabelle” to better resonate with Quebec beauty lovers. Known as “the house of colours,” the brand has offered a wide shade range for those who love to experiment with a variety of looks.

Just some of the recent offerings from the brand: eyeshadows in fuchsia pink and neon yellow; eyeliners in peacock blue and emerald green; and glosses in magenta and retina-searing orange. Annabelle was snapped up by fellow Quebec-based company Marcelle in 1999 and has continued to set the bar when it comes to trendy makeup shades and innovative collections. The beauty brand is further capitalizing on its edgy status by signing French-Canadian singer Marie-Mai as its spokesperson. A finalist on Quebec’s version of American Idol, Star Académie, and now a platinum-selling artist, Marie-Mai has a chameleon-like look and favours bold makeup choices (in fact, the singer was an Annabelle lover even before she was signed with the brand). “Marie-Mai’s glam rock look fits perfectly with Annabelle’s DNA and our new brand image,” says Nathalie Bouchard, director of marketing for Annabelle. And there’s more to come: this fall, expect to see more product innovations and a new in-store shopping experience.

50years

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SEPTEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

Murray Koffler at an early Shoppers store, circa 1970s

SHOPPERS DRUG MART

It’s hard to imagine the Canadian beauty landscape without the innovative vision of Shoppers Drug Mart. Pharmacist Murray Koffler opened his first Shoppers in Ontario in 1962, at the same time launching the company’s private label line, Life Brand. Within the following decade, stores popped up from coast to coast, and the company became the largest drugstore chain in the country. More than just a drugstore, Shoppers became a one-stop shop for every need, whether prescriptions, vitamins or the latest shade of lipstick. Indeed, Shoppers boasts a wealth of firsts when it comes to beauty. In 1981, the retailer launched Images, a magazine devoted to the latest in health and beauty; in 2002, it continued the tradition with Glow magazine and its French counterpart, Pure. Shoppers unveiled Quo Cosmetics, the first Canadian private label makeup line, in 1999, offering seasonal colour collections along with core colour products and tools. The BeautyBoutique, launched in 2003, expanded Shoppers’ beauty selection with a store-withina-store concept offering the latest in prestige cosmetics.

Today, there are more than 300 BeautyBoutiques among the 1,200 Shoppers Drug Mart stores across the country. Offering top-notch beauty expertise has been key to the drugstore’s success, and Shoppers, along with its six luxury beauty Murale stores, boasts an impressive network of more than 5,200 beauty advisors. It has also become the exclusive purveyor of hard-to-find international beauty lines such as GOSH Cosmetics, Soap & Glory and Sally Hershberger Professional Hair Care. Its latest coup: a partnership with global beauty brand Orly on an exclusive line of Quo by Orly nail lacquers.

Kampai!

SHISEIDO CELEBRATES 140th ANNIVERSARY BY FÊTING FRIENDS OF THE BUSINESS Colleagues, media, retail partners and friends received a heartfelt arigato from Shiseido (Canada) Inc. at the company’s spectacular 140th anniversary gala, held at Toronto’s Japanese Canadian Cultural Centre June 20.

The evening event showcased highlights from Shiseido’s 140-year history, with representatives from Clé de Peau Beauté, Serge Lutens, Nars and Beauté Prestige International—all corporately owned by Shiseido—on hand to thank each guest for their support in reaching this exciting milestone.

“This evening is not about celebrating who we are, but rather an opportunity for Shiseido Canada to thank you,” said Mr. Keiichi Fujii, President and CEO of Shiseido (Canada) Inc., in an address to his honoured guests.

“Without your partnership, our corporate business would not have achieved the success we are so proud of today. In very humble terms, arigato-gozaimasu.”

Shiseido was founded in Japan in 1872, and looks forward to a bright future with business partners, valued customers, sister brands, and friends.

COSMETICS AT 40

60

years

NEUTROGENA

It all started with a bar of soap. But not just any bar of soap: the signature “Amber Bar,” a mild, clear soap called Neutrogena that allowed skin to return to a normal pH level 11 minutes after washing and left no residue, was developed by Belgian cosmetic chemist Dr Edmond Fromont.

Emanuel Stolaroff, owner of a small cosmetics company called Natone, caught wind of the special soap and began importing it to the U.S. and to Canada in 1952. By clearly marketing the soap’s point of difference and expanding distribution at drug and department stores, the company soon picked up speed. Neutrogena soap became synonymous with the Natone company and it was soon officially changed to Neutrogena in 1962. Seen as a natural fit for the medical community, in the 1960s, company president Lloyd Costen touted the benefits of Neutrogena to doctors and dermatologists. After gaining acceptance within the medical realm, Neutrogena strove to create a line of safe, mild premium skincare products and its eventual longstanding credibility with doctors and dermatologists led to its acquisition in 1994 by Johnson & Johnson. Neutrogena’s skin and haircare products are now sold in more than 70 countries worldwide today. From targeted acne treatments to reliable sun protection, and its latest anti-aging innovation, Rapid Wrinkle Repair, featuring accelerated retinol promising results in as little as a week, it’s no wonder that Neutrogena is the number one dermatologist-recommended brand.

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BIOTHERM

In 1952, French biologist Jeanine Marissai developed three skincare products based on a simple natural ingredient: thermal plankton. Little did she know that she was on to a serious breakthrough in skincare technology. Sourced from the legendary thermal springs of Molitg-les-Bains in France, the springs were said to yield powerful skin healing properties on those who bathed there, from Gallo-Roman warriors to young Catalan women seeking the fountain of youth. In the 18th century, Seigneur de Molitg established a thermal springs station to study the waters’ powers. Fastforward to the 1940s, when the station’s then doctor-inresidence, Jo Julien, discovered the source of the springs’ curative benefits: thermal plankton, a substance that rose to the waters’ surface. In the 1950s, scientists invented a process to preserve the activity of this mighty microorganism, which is packed with 35 nutrients, vitamins, amino acids, lipids and trace elements essential to skin health.

Ever since, the brand, acquired by L’Oréal in 1970, has dedicated itself to improving its research into the properties of thermal plankton as well as other ingredients such as mannose and reverserol. In 1990, Biotherm’s scientists were able to isolate, via biofermentation, pure thermal plankton extract (the microorganism’s most active element). This led to a major discovery: in partnership with Stanford University, Biotherm discovered that this extract can simulate MnSOD, a key “life enzyme” in the skin, which helps strengthen its own natural defenses. With access to world-class research facilities and scientists, the brand keeps innovating and has delivered a series of hits under its skincare umbrella, including the first clinically-proven slimming cream, the first bust cream, along with top-notch anti-aging and men’s care products.

Johnson & Johnson is celebrating 25 years of research on stabilizing RETINOL After a certain age, the face begins to show the passage of time. When collagen and elastin start to breakdown, the skin starts to sink creating fine lines and wrinkles. Think of collagen and elastin as support beams in a house. If they start to break down, the roof eventually falls in.

RETINOL works at two levels of the skin. It stimulates cell renewal in the epidermis helping to smooth the appearance of fine lines. Within the dermis, retinoids work to help build the skin’s supporting structure by boosting collagen synthesis and stimulating the growth of connective tissue cells called fibroblasts.

Give us 8 weeks and we’ll give you 8 years*

THE HISTORY

THE RESULTS

It was in 1987 that the Johnson & Johnson Research and Skin Biology program assigned dedicated scientists to the Formula Stabilization Project with clinical trials taking place in Europe in 1990. By 1993 the research team filed a patent for stabilized Retinol which states “Certain retinoid compounds tend to be chemically instable ... and are, therefore, not available to perform in their desired manner. The present invention has overcome these difficulties and instead, provides a composition... wherein the physical stability of the emulsion and the chemical stability of the active ingredient is excellent”.

Today, RoC® anti-aging products continue to address antiaging needs with breakthrough skincare solutions based on the unique stabilized Retinol that the brand is known for.

Advances in formula technology are allowing the benefits of RoC® retinol to be realized by more and more consumers through a gentle retinol boosting ingredient.

In 1996, Johnson & Johnson was granted the first of 28 patents in Europe, Canada and US; paving the way for RoC® brand’s reputation as a retinol authority.

*Diminished appearance of eye wrinkles after 8 weeks in a clinical study on 44 women

RoC® WRINKLE CORREXION® contains exclusive stabilized Retinol, combined with Biopeptide and Hyaluronic Acid. In laboratory tests, these ingredients were found to double cellular metabolism, increase elastin production, and boost collagen by 95% to help target wrinkles deep within the skin’s surface.

RoC® WRINKLE CORREXION® Daily Moisturizer, fights wrinkles from deep within the surface of skin, giving users 8 years back on the appearance of lines and wrinkles in 8 weeks. Now that is something to celebrate.

COSMETICS AT 40

140years

60years OLAY

Today, we know the brand as simply Olay, but when it first came on the scene in 1952, it was called Oil of Olay, the beauty fluid packaged in a pink glass bottle. Oil of Olay was first developed by South African chemist Graham Gordon Wulff as a gift for his wife Dinah, who was frustrated with the thick skin balms that were then on the market. Wulff wanted to create a product that would make his wife look and feel beautiful, instead of making her skin feel oily and heavy. Wulff and his wife worked together on everything from the formula’s light texture and signature pink colour to its delicate, feminine fragrance. The first batch was created by hand, and thus, Oil of Olay was born. Wulff partnered with a former advertising agency executive to create a company to produce and market the product, and within five years, the wonder lotion was a huge success in South Africa. Soon thereafter, Oil of Olay launched in England, the U.S. and finally, in Canada in 1963, where it became a skincare sensation. In September 1970, the brand was sold to Richardson-Merrill (later renamed Richardson-Vicks) which was later acquired by Procter & Gamble in 1985.

Since then, the brand has continued to innovate in the skincare arena: it launched the first sensitive skin beauty fluid in 1988 and the first daily UV protectant in 1991. In 1999, the brand was renamed “Olay” to capture its simple, contemporary approach to beauty. Olay has since carved out a key piece of the mass anti-aging skincare market with lines such as peptide-powered Regenerist and VitaNiacin-based Total Effects. More recently, Olay was one of the first mass skincare brands to partner with an alliance of prominent dermatologists on a professional range of skincare, Olay Professional Pro-X, which is said to improve the appearance of lines and wrinkles in eight weeks. We can’t wait to see what’s next from the billion-dollar skincare brand.

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It’s quite possible that beauty advisors would not exist today without the pioneering ways of Japanese beauty company Shiseido. While the company landed in Canada in 1972, its story actually began 140 years ago, when pharmacist Arinobu Fukuhara opened the first Western-style pharmacy in Ginza, Japan. The name Shiseido, taken from classical Chinese text, translates to “praise the virtues of the great Earth, which nurtures new life and brings forth new values.” In the spirit of change, Shiseido launched its first beauty product, the skin-softening lotion Eudermine, developed by doctor of pharmacology Nagayoshi Nagai, in 1897. But it wasn’t until 1916 that the brand would further expand into beauty, establishing a cosmetics department and laboratory to run quality control and ingredient safety checks. While quality and luxury have been at the heart of Shiseido’s offerings, so too have customer service, or ‘omotenashi’ (the spirit of hospitality). Enter “Miss Shiseido,” the title given to the first Shiseido beauty consultants in 1934. Recruited via newspaper ads “seeking the well-brought-up daughter of a decent family,” nine women were selected out of 250 applicants to win the coveted title.

They received extensive training at Shiseido’s head office in Ginza on beauty techniques, service and sales, dermatology, as well as painting and vocal instruction. True beauty stars, they presented the latest treatments and techniques on stage in a dramatic presentation called “The Theater of Modern Beauty” in major cities throughout Japan. After the production, they gave personalized beauty consultations to the women in the audience. In 1959 “Miss Shiseido” consultants were officially called Beauty Advisors and later renamed Beauty Consultants in 1990. To honour its BCs, Shiseido launched its first Global Beauty Consultant Contest in 2004 and recently held its second awards this year to commemorate their impeccable service as part of its 140th anniversary.

Shiseido Pharmacy, 1922

SHISEIDO PHOTO, COURTESY SHISEIDO CO. LTD.

SHISEIDO

We’re celebrating 50 fabulous years, and we couldn’t have done it without you!

Thank you to all of our Beauty Experts for your hard work and dedication to our customers over the years.

We’re proud to have you on our team and look forward to many more fabulous years to come!

COSMETICS AT 40

Milestones

Here, a timeline of key brands and products celebrating anniversaries this year.

100 years Guerlain’s famed L’Heure Bleue (“The Blue Hour”)

fragrance, was created by Jacques Guerlain in 1947.

80 years Founded in 1932 by Charles Revson and his brother

75 years Dr. Frank Crandall creates Le Velvet, the first foundation

with SPF, for his wife’s sensitive skin and Physicians Formula is born.

65 years Dermatologist-beloved sensitive skin cleanser Cetaphil Cleansing Lotion by Galderma was introduced in 1947. • The house of Dior released its first fragrance, Miss Dior, a chypre with notes of fresh galbanum, woodsy patchouli and gardenia in 1947 to capture the essence of the young couture house. The brand’s famed nail polishes also turns 50 this year.

55 years The House of Givenchy launched its first two fragrances

in 1957: Le De, a reference to the “de” in Hubert de Givenchy’s name and L’Interdit, dedicated to Audrey Hepburn. • The classic white Dove Beauty Bar, which replenishes skin as it cleans, was introduced to the U.S. in 1957 and to Canada in 1964.

50 years Head & Shoulders introduced its zinc pyrithione-based

anti-dandruff shampoo.

40 years Known as the first “experiential” shampoo, Herbal

Essences took cues from the hippie movement with its fragrant blend of 16 herbs and wildflowers.

35 years Inspired by the splendours of the Orient, the classic spicy Oriental fragrance from Yves Saint Laurent, Opium, was launched in 1977. • With its promise of repairing skin overnight, Estée Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair captivated women everywhere when it was released in 1982.

25 years Boasting rare caviar extract to firm and nourish skin, La

Prairie launched its ultra-indulgent Skin Caviar Collection. • Clarins released Eau Dynamisante, a skin treatment and fragrance in one.

• Johnson & Johnson made waves in the skincare industry when its chemists stabilized retinol for over the counter skincare.

20 years Storied French glassware design company Lalique

released its first house fragrance, Lalique de Lalique, created by perfumer Sophia Grojsman, in 1992. • P&G Prestige was born with the acquisition of the Hugo Boss and Laura Biagiotti fragrance licenses.

• The famed “light in a tube,” YSL’s Touche Eclat radiant highlighter was released. • Angel by Thierry Mugler paved the gourmand fragrance trail twenty years ago, sparking a thousand copycats. • Nuxe released its multi-purpose, celeb-beloved dry oil Huile Prodigieuse.

10 years Jennifer Lopez’s first scent, J.Lo Glow, first landed in stores in 2002. • With its epic-sized brush, Diorshow Mascara became a makeup bag staple since its launch.

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175years

Holt Renfrew store in Quebec City, circa 1912

Holt renfrew

The store we know today as the ultimate in luxury shopping grew from humble beginnings: young Irish merchant William Samuel Henderson arrived in Quebec City in 1834 with a selection of hats and caps that captured consumers’ fancy and quickly sold out, leading to a steady stream of shipments from across the pond. A few years later, in 1837, Henderson opened his first store, originally named William Ashton & Co., and later renamed Holt Renfrew. The retailer would go through many hands and renamings over the years, and was known as everything from Renfrew & Marcou to G.R. Renfrew in the late 19th century. By then, the company had grown its merchandise and carried a selection of furs that caught the eye of Queen Victoria at the Colonial & Indian Exhibition in London, England in 1886. She purchased a fur muff and other items and appointed G.R. Renfrew & Co. as Furriers In Ordinary to Her Majesty. As the company grew, opening stores in Toronto and Montreal, it went back to its original name and issued its first mail-order catalogues.

With its 100-year milestone in 1937, the retailer opened its second Montreal store, a luxe art deco building in the city’s downtown. Through the 1940s and ‘50s, Holt’s became a hotbed for couture, as company president Alan Walker made regular trips to fashion capitals Paris, Milan and London; in 1948, he brought Christian Dior to Canada, the first store in the country to carry the couturier’s designs. In the ‘70s, Holt’s set up shop in Vancouver and unveiled a massive flagship store on Toronto’s Bloor Street West. The Weston family took ownership of the company in 1986, and the retailer continued to flourish, expanding its existing stores and creating boutiques-within-the-store featuring designer labels such as Giorgio Armani and Yves Saint Laurent. Today, Holt’s has 11 stores across the country, with its main floors devoted to niche and hard-to-find beauty brands such as Tom Ford, Byredo Parfums, Diptyque and Shu Uemura.

Photo, courtesy holt renfrew

Joseph along with chemist Charles Lachman (who contributed the “L” in the brand’s name), Revlon launched the world’s first nail enamel.

NO wOmAN shOuLD FACE CANCER ALONE “It is a privilege for me to have had the opportunity to attend the Look Good Feel Better workshop.

Please give my thanks to all of the companies and volunteers so that they will know that the work they do is critical, extremely important and appreciated more than words can express” KAren, LooK Good FeeL Better worKshop ALumni

For the support you’ve given, the knowledge you’ve shared, the lives you’ve touched. All of us at Look Good Feel Better thank you our volunteers, donors and sponsors for 20 years of dedication to helping women with cancer. Thanks to you, we continue to fulÀll our mission to ensure that no woman has to face cancer alone.

1 80 0 91 4 566 5 | LOOKGOODF E E LB E T TE R.CA facebook.com/lgfbcanada

@lgfbcanada

Look good feeL be t t er is a progr am of t he Canadian Cosme t iC, toiLe t ry and fr agr anCe assoCiat ion foundat ion | reg Chari t y #13374 0316 rr0001

scene A dance performance at Shiseido’s 140th anniversary gala

Beauty Behind the Scenes From Shiseido’s 140th anniversary celebration to Parfums Givenchy’s latest fragrance launch, Cosmetics was there

Cosmetics editor Kristen Vinakmens gets a first whiff of Givenchy Dahlia Noir

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Beauty editors attend a preview of the latest from Olay and Herbal Essences

CoverGirl makeup pro Greg Wencel showcases makeup trends at a media preview for Crest Whitestrips

PHOTOS: CREST, ARTHUR MOLA; GIVENCHY, COURTESY PARFUMS GIVENCHY/EDWARD KWAN; SHISEIDO PHOTOS COURTESY OF SHISEIDO

Revellers admire beauty products from the Shiseido archives at its 140th anniversary gala

scene

Painting the Town

Photos: Dominique lafonD

MAC took to the steamy streets of Montreal in July with its Hit The Pavement event, which boldly showcased the skilled handiwork of its Pro Artists in body painting. Models were painted like statues and saturated in pigment and coloured hairspray from head to toe. In attendance: editors from Loulou and Dressed to Kill, bloggers, makeup artists from all over Quebec, and even shock-rocker Alice Cooper, who interacted and hammed it up with the “living statues”.

The MAC event travels around the world to bring members of the industry together to network, inspire and show off the MAC team’s amazing artistry.

cosmeticsmag.com / september 2012

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Recognizing the talented men and women who work so hard to make our brands look so beautiful.

In-store displays also help increase sales and visibility for your brands whether it be for a newly launched product, rebranding or seasonal support.

Nominations are now open for the 2013 Visual Display Awards.

Visit cosmeticsmag.com and download your nomination form under the “Awards� tab. Or you can nominate your favourite visual display designer by simply sending their name and e-mail address to Jillian Vieira at: jillian.vieira@cosmetics.rogers.com

sponsors

COSMETICS AT 40

THE R O S I V D A Y T U A E B

0 4 P O T

We reached out to you — Canada’s dedicated and outstanding beauty advisors — for your all-time favourite products, timeless advice and fondest memories from working in the industry. Here, we share some of your best responses and toast to 40 beautiful years of Cosmetics.

What has been the highlight of your career as a beauty advisor?

Growing my business when other people doubted me and my abilities. My counter was down 35% when I started. Being fairly young and having no experience running a counter, many did not think I had what it took to keep the mature clientele as well as gain new customers.

Being counter manager was the most fun experience I have had. I am so thankful to those who did believe in me! Every day was a challenge, but well worth it as I got the counter up 15% in less than a year.

Holly tHompson, formerly of tHe bay (now Cellex-C), toronto, on

One of the best parts of my career as a beauty advisor is having built the intuition to know when a customer needs a good compliment or a boost to their self-esteem. I have dealt with customers who are terminally ill or down on themselves and I’ve learned that a little makeup, kind service and genuine care can make a big difference.

You never know what your customers’ personal lives are like and the way you treat them often means more than we realize.

Karen Gallant, pHarma plus, KitCHener, on

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COSMETICS AT 40

The highlight of my career is winning a COSA award in 2011. I feel very honoured to be recognized by Cosmetics magazine after 30 years with Pharma Plus. maria Gariepy, rexall pharma plus, Ottawa, ON

Having a customer that I’ve served for so many years and later having her young daughter adopt me as her beauty advisor. micheliNe thériault, JeaN cOutu, GraNd Falls, Nb

I never get tired of giving someone a skin makeover.

One instance that stands out for me is showing a beautiful lady who had suffered from rosacea for most of her life how to camouflage it without looking “made-up.”

She was literally crying when she saw the amazing results in the mirror. That day I thought, “This is why I do what I do!”

Seeing how technology in this industry has evolved and changed for the best, not just the better. There are so many products out there for consumers to be able to do-it-themselves at home now. The fact that I get to help advise them to do it the right way makes it even easier. mary diraNi, rexall pharma plus, wiNdsOr, ON

I received an award from the CEO of my company because a customer wrote him a letter saying how I was the most helpful salesperson she ever came across. It was a surprise and an honour. deNise FiOrella, rexall pharma plus, GeOrGetOwN, ON

carrie mills, shOppers druG mart, beamsville, ON

When customers return to me. I share everything with them, including what’s happening in my life as well as good laughs. We actually gain strength and knowledge from one another. mONica mOrrisON, shOppers druG mart, sidNey, bc

My cosmetic manager has been a mentor to me throughout my working experience as a beauty advisor. This has been important in my professional growth within the beauty industry. liNda deiN, shOppers druG mart, hamiltON, ON

Assisting at the Look Good Feel Better seminar and seeing the difference my help made for the clients. I highly recommend that every beauty advisor do it at least once.

Kathy carrier, shOppers druG mart, pOrt alberNi, bc

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Becoming friends with my customers.

It’s wonderful to know that they are in the store to see me, whether to purchase that day, or just to say hello. dawN stuart, sears, chatham, ON

COSMETICS AT 40 Do something different — anything! The best ideas always come from someone else, so give credit where it is due. Strive to be unique, even if it’s only tweaking an application method. mAckeNzie milleN, shoppers Drug mArt, grimsby, oN

To be successful in this industry, you must have a passion for it.

Go to as many training sessions as possible — they are so important in growing your knowledge on all the different product lines. Also, keep up with new product launches, which Cosmetics magazine is a huge help with.

Nicole ADAm, shoppers Drug mArt, cAlgAry, Ab

If you love what you do, you’ll do it well. Remember that your role is an important one.

We are beauty professionals, and people come to us for help with their appearance. That’s a big deal, so don’t sell yourself short. Take pride in what you do!

Amy yim, shoppers Drug mArt, mArkhAm, oN

What advice would you give to someone starting out in this industry?

Be patient — you won’t know everything right away.

Listen to your co-workers interacting with customers.

I have picked up so many selling tips just from observing these interactions.

AlexANDrA muise, seArs, DArtmouth, Ns

It’s okay to say that you don’t know something.

You want to build loyalty with clients. Get their contact information, do your research and then call them back right away!

DANielle DelANo, formerly of phArmAprix, moNtreAl, Qc

Really listen to what your customers are saying and what their needs are. Ask them lots of questions — they might just teach you some things along the way as well. cAtheriNe hArDiNg, the bAy, oshAwA, oN

Sell yourself. Be animated. Love what you do.

Dive into the art of cosmetics. Practice, do your research and have fun. megAN grAy, the bAy, hAlifAx, Ns

The best way to learn about the products you are selling is by trying them out yourself.

Customers love to hear that you have tried a product and loved it.

You’ll sell so much more this way.

JAke rAfuse, lAwtoNs Drugs, hAlifAx, Ns

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COSMETICS AT 40 La Roche-Posay Derm AHA Intensive Resurfacing Serum has completely transformed my skin. The texture is absolutely amazing — not one visible pore! Also, my complexion is evened out and smooth. I am in my mid-forties and am regularly mistaken for about thirty, and I have this product to thank.

What is your absolute must-have product?

SARAH SHUPE, SHOPPERS DRUG MART, HALIFAX, NS

Shiseido Extra Gentle Cleansing Foam. It gives me the squeaky clean feeling of soap, without the drying effects. When I first started in the cosmetics industry 35 years ago, I looked after Shiseido, and even though I have been in fragrances for the last 25 years, it is the one product that I have consistently kept using over the years.

LIZ TISCHNER, THE BAY, CALGARY, AB

Easy: Lancôme Génifique Youth Activating Concentrate. After only a week of using it, my skin was brighter, clearer, softer and more uniform in appearance.

If I stop using it for more than a few days, my skin is not nearly as nice looking. I constantly get compliments on my complexion and I attribute them to this product.

JAN MILES, SEARS, STRATFORD, ON

Vichy ProEven Daily Dark Spot Corrector.

I tried this product after Cosmetics magazine sent me a full-size sample to test. After one month of use, my skin is completely hydrated and clear of dark spots. I hardly need to wear as much makeup as I did before. I now recommend this product to my customers and many agree that it’s amazing.

DAPHNIE HANNA, SHOPPERS DRUG MART, SCARBOROUGH, ON

Benefit Cha Cha Tint gives amazing buildable colour that lasts all day. It won’t smudge off, rub off or even kiss off! It’s very convenient and you only need a little bit — it’s worth every penny.

HEDYEH GRAMIKHAH, SHOPPERS DRUG MART, MISSISSAUGA, ON

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Mascara, more specifically, CoverGirl LashBlast!

It’s been my favourite mascara since it launched, and despite working with tons of prestige mascaras, it still comes out on top! Every woman looks more awake and beautiful with a fuller, longer lash.

BAILEY ROSE YUCE, SHOPPERS DRUG MART, CALGARY, AB

COSMETICS AT 40 Helping the customer who discovers how makeup can affect her confidence, mood and overall outlook on life. They leave rejuvenated.

I love that I can make a difference!

TINA BRUSILO, SHOPPERS DRUG MART, COQUITLAM, BC

Diorshow Brow Styler.

It’s a universal eyebrow pencil suited for every haircolour.

I find myself always going back to this one because nothing else compares to it.

MELISSA TUGBANG, SHOPPERS DRUG MART, NEWMARKET, ON

The adrenaline rush I get when I know I got it right for a client!

TAMMY DESCHNER, SHOPPERS DRUG MART, RED DEER, AB

What drives you day-to-day in your job?

Every day is different and I really love what I do — where else can you do that and get paid?

PATTI THACKRAY, SHOPPERS DRUG MART, AIRDRIE, AB

Lise Watier Portfolio Professional Correctors.

I can cover, define and contour anything with it!

BRENDA MATTEY, SHOPPERS DRUG MART, CARLETON PLACE, ON

Having a wonderful staff that love being in the industry as much as I do and being able to support myself as an independent single mother doing something I love.

SARAH DODD, SALLY BEAUTY SUPPLY, REGINA, SK

My must-have product is a foundation primer, more specifically Smashbox Photo Finish. I have tried other primers, but always end up drifting back to theirs. With tons of good-foryou ingredients, your skin not only looks better wearing it, but feels better, too. Being an oily skin type, I am used to products completely melting off my face, but ever since I found this primer, it’s no longer a concern.

CALEB WESSELS, SHOPPERS DRUG MART, VANCOUVER, BC

Increasing my client family!

TANYA BAPTIE, REXALL PHARMA PLUS, PETERBOROUGH, ON

I love being in the magical land of cosmetics and fragrance. But the thing that drives me the most is when I make a real connection with a customer.

In a sense, I’m helping them to feel better about themselves, and that’s what cultivates trust, loyalty and long-term relationships with customers.

CANDY BALMAKOON, SEARS, STRATFORD, ON

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Cosmetics Promotion

SKINCARE

ASKED THE EXPERTS...

Beautoyr advis

approved

COSMETICS AT 40

What has Cosmetics magazine meant to you?

Great inside info on what’s new in the industry. It is always nice to see it first and be able to tell the customer what is new, trendy and upcoming.

We asked Beauty Advisors for their opinion on the Bioré® Deep Cleansing Pore Strips. Here’s what they had to say:

Kirsten Anderson, shoppers drug mArt, mount hope, on

It’s an opportunity to learn from some of the best out there. The magazine gives me a chance to gain new skills. I also feel so proud seeing the brand I work for in the magazine. elizAbeth Flowers, Formerly oF the bAy, KelownA, bC

I love the fact that you can SEE what is being removed from your pores. It’s proof that the product works.

- T.T. Toronto, ON

Cosmetics magazine really motivates me.

It holds information that makes me feel current and provides me with tips for success.

It is a fun and innovative product.

I haven’t seen anything else like it.

- N.P. Calgary, AB

Jodie smith, shoppers drug mArt, ViCtoriA, bC

The strip manages to get a lot off, more than you thought was there... it’s amazingly disgusting!

- A.M. Brampton, ON

It has introduced me to names and faces that I might otherwise not have known. The coverage of the COSA Awards is great too, because it is always nice to see recognition in your industry.

Cannot say enough positive adjectives.

This product really works!

- J.S. Ottawa, ON

trACee thompson, mAC CosmetiCs, sAsKAtoon, sK

85%

I have built my business and customer rapport on product knowledge — I would be lost without Cosmetics magazine. I especially like it when a fragrance has a story that I can build into my selling.

of Beauty Advisors would buy and recommend the Bioré® Pore Strips.*

lorne grotKowsKi-mCgill, seArs, grAnde prAirie, Ab

Since returning to the cosmetics field over 10 years ago, I can honestly say I have not missed reading a single copy of Cosmetics magazine. I usually read Jim Hicks’ article first as his take on things is always current and pinpoints our concerns in the beauty industry. I also refer back to issues that have customer service stories when coaching new beauty advisors. I always recommend it as a “must read.”

* Testimonials and recommendations based on 67 participants in the Bioré® skincare sampling program of Cosmetics Magazine’s Beauty Advisory Panel.

romAine bond, the bAy, Vernon, bC

www.Biore.ca

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september 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

Give your pores a little tough love.

Bioré® Deep Cleansing Pore Strips are the deepest way to clean your pores, removing a week’s worth of built up dirt in 10 minutes flat!

THE BARE ESSENTIALS Use a weekly Pore Strip in combination with any one of our complexion clearing cleansers daily to fight all forms of acne and help prevent it from coming back.

FACE ANYTHING™

ENCOUNTER CALVIN KLEIN ENCOUNTER Calvin Klein redefines modern, unapologetic masculinity. It captures the essence of being a man in all its complexity – the sophisticated layers of confidence, power and mystery.

A distinctive sensual woody fragrance, ENCOUNTER combines an addictive blend of freshness, warm cognac and sensual woods.

INTRODUCING DOT MARC JACOBS CHIC AND CHARMING WITH A TOUCH OF THE UNEXPECTED A LUSH FLORAL BOUQUET OF BEAUTIFUL JASMINE AND JUICY RED BERRIES THE COLLECTION $49 – $105

The collection: $28 – $87

NEW LAUNCHES

FULL OF PROMISE COLLECTION

In a secret garden you find flowers that surpass the imagination.

dual-action restoring cream full of promise dual-action restoring cream features a unique protein recycling complex that helps promote visibly firmer, fuller, uplifted skin

What would a perfume that contained the charm and mystery of flowers be like?

$82.00

This is the story that we tell with FLORABOTANICA.

daytime/nighttime treatment duo dynamic a.m./p.m. protocol to inspire uplifting days that visibly defy gravity and volumizing nights that help restore skin’s youthfully sculpted appearance

FLORABOTANICA BY BALENCIAGA PARIS

THE COLLECTION: $60 – $115

$89.00

Bourjois Paris hEalThy BalancE comPacT PowdEr RADIANCE BOOSTER POWDER! PhoTo Finish dark sPoT corrEcTing PrimEr – $50 The first primer from Smashbox that smoothes fine lines and preps the skin for foundation while helping to visibly correct dark spots. This innovative, multi-benefit primer delivers a flawless, photo-ready look, while providing overall skincare benefits immediately and over time.

This high performing powder offers a refreshed, matte and balanced finish without drying the skin! It provides a unified complexion for up to 10 hours. It also has an anti-shine effect and includes the combined benefits of moisturising Sharon and Yuzu fruit therapy. In one word: radiant!

Available in 3 shades, $24 each.

Exclusively available at select Shoppers Drug Mart stores.

NEW LAUNCHES

marcEllE BB crEam-To-PowdEr Our latest expert step in the BB revolution!

8 in 1 Multi-Benefits.

All-in-one skin enhancer in compact form: innovative creamy texture that transforms into a powdery finish.

Especially formulated for Canadian women in 2 self-adjusting shades, for all skin types.

Retail Price: $22.95 In stores: Early July 2012

Eau ThErmalE avènE The only brand that offers consumers sterile cosmetics, sterile products from the manufacturing process to the last drop. For unequalled safety and efficacy for intolerant skin. Proven formulations containing the new Pierre Fabre active ingredient, PATENTED for inflammation: Parcerine. This innovative ingredient acts on both components of the skin’s intolerance by restoring its barrier and reducing its reactivity.

September, 2012 50 ml – $35

eLiZaBetH arden’S red door aura This fall we will celebrate the heritage of the Elizabeth Arden brand with the introduction of Red Door Aura, a new expression of the classic and timeless Red Door fragrance.

This contemporary and youthful fragrance captures the multi-faceted glamour, elegance, and style of New York City women.

Prada candY coLLector Happy first birthday, Prada candy!

Top Notes: Luscious Raspberry, Bergamot Lily Middle Notes: Orange Flower, Rose, Jasmine Petals Base Notes: Creamy Amber, Sandalwood, Soft Musk the elizabeth arden red door aura collection Red Door Aura Eau de Toilette Spray Naturel $60.00 (1.7 fl. oz./ 50 ml) Red Door Aura Eau de Toilette Spray Naturel $75.00 (3.3 fl. oz./100 ml)

Prada presents a limited collector’s edition of the Eau de Parfum, embellished with a Prada wrist adornment in hot pink. An impulsive and provocative statement declares: ‘GIVE ME CANDY’.

Available in 80ml – $125

NEW LAUNCHES

Bio-Performance advanced SuPer reStoring cream Introducing a world-first discovery from Shiseido: new Bio-Performance Advanced Super Restoring Cream. This revolutionary development from Shiseido aids in the maintenance of youthfully-smooth, healthy skin with Tri-Dynamic Lift, targeting three major changes that begin to affect skin’s appearance over time—sagging, loss of resilience and wrinkles.

Available September 5, exclusively at The Bay, and September 17 at all Shiseido retailers.

Price: $140

NEW RoC® COMPLETE LIFT VOLUME RESTORER™ moisturizers visibly redefine facial skin so that: cheekbones appear reshaped, cheeks look replumpled and lifted, wrinkles are visibly smoothed, face and contours look redrawn and neck feels firmer.

50 ml - SRP $49 Johnson & Johnson Inc. 2012

SPLAT WASHABLES

COLOR OOPS WIPES Color Oops Hair Color Remover Wipes are a new quick and easy way to dissolve away hair color stains left on face, neck and hands after coloring your hair. The gentle Aloe Vera formula has a clean fresh scent and no harsh odor. Contains 10 Color Oops Wipes in a convenient pop-up container. Perfect for every time you color your hair.

Now you can have bright colored hair without the commitment. New Splat Washables lets you add fun, bright colors to your hair that washes out easily with shampoo. With a unique applicator brush for easy application, simply brush on hair - add hair spray and blow dry for extra hold. Available in four hot colors so you can change it up every day.

Retail Price: $8.99 Available from Farleyco Marketing 1-800-257-8694 or farleyco.ca

Retail Price: $5.99 Available from Farleyco Marketing 1-800-257-8694 or farleyco.ca

NEW LAUNCHES

LIFTACTIV SERUM 10.

THE ULTIMATE ANTI-AGING POWER, WITH 10% RHAMNOSE. A powerful concentration of anti-aging efficacy with no compromise on skin tolerance.

1 drop, 10 min: the lifting effect you’ve been waiting for.

Visibly smoothed skin and -10% of wrinkles.

In just 1 month: your skin is transformed, like new.

January 2012 30 ml – $55.00

BLUE THERAPY WRINKLES, DARK SPOTS, FIRMNESS

Biotherm introduces Blue Therapy, a revolutionary anti-aging skin care that visibly corrects wrinkles, dark spots and lack of firmness. The formula is enriched with extracts of 3 active aquatic ingredients that offer regenerating, repairing and strengthening properties for the skin. Reduce the appearance of up to 8 years of accumulated damage in 4 weeks.

BRAnD nEw BIORé® COmBInATIOn SkIn BALAnCIng CLEAnSER Got skin that can’t make up its mind? Achieve the clean you want, without disturbing the natural moisture your skin needs. This cleanser removes all forms of impurities while leaving 90% of skin’s natural moisture, giving your face an even, all-over clean.

• • • •

Oil-Free Non-Comedogenic (won’t clog pores) Hypo-Allergenic Dermatologist Tested

BURBERRY BODY EAU DE TOILETTE Introducing Burberry Body Eau de Toilette, a new, lighter version of the iconic Burberry Body fragrance. Light, clean combination of refined ingredients including crisp green apple and seductive tea. Feminine and effortlessly sensual, the scent is a delicate reflection of the spirit and attitude of the Burberry girl.

Eau de Toilette 60ml, $ 82

NEW LAUNCHES

2012 COSA AwARDS Wednesday November 14, 2012 Royal York Hotel – Canadian Room Toronto, Ontario Order your tickets today Call 416-764-2498

The Fragrance awards will take place next year on April 25, 2013 at the Marriott Chateau Champlain Hotel in Montreal.

PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE at your fingertips

Introducing new product knowledge tutorials, a partnership between Cosmetics Magazine and Beauteschool.

These are 5-10 minute product specific training tutorials that will help keep you current on new product launches before they arrive in your store.

We asked Canada’s BA’s what they thought of the idea. Here’s what they said: 99.4% said that these training courses would make their job easier.

88.3% said they would like these available on their computer through Cosmetics web site.

81.2% said they would use these training courses for every product available.

BEAUTY ADVISOR QUOTES: This is a great idea! I have several new product that have come into the store without receiving any information.”

“I love this idea, with all the new launches every year this would be a huge help!”

“The 5 minute trainings are great for new products which can tide one over until spring & fall training sessions.”

Look for the latest product knowledge tutorials on our web site starting mid September this year. Visit:

cosmeticsmag.com

To get you own product training tutorials: e-mail jim.hicks@cosmetics.com, donna.howlett@cosmetics.com, mickeytortorelli@beauteschool.com or call 416.764.1664

INSPIRING CANADA’S BEAUTY EXPERTS

2012 beauty calendar

September /OctOber September 13 & 14, 2012

CCTFA Annual Conference & AGM, Queen’s Landing, Niagara-On-The-Lake www.cctfa.ca September 24, 2012

LGFB Charity Golf Classic, Toronto www.cctfa.ca

PhoTo CRediTs, “40 YeaRs of BeauTY”: 1977, elizabeth Arden portrait courtesy elizabeth Arden; 1984, L’Oréal ad courtesy L’Oréal paris; 1986, pantene ad courtesy pantene; 1989, cindy crawford image, ron Galella/Getty Images; 1991, maybelline Great Lash ad courtesy maybelline; 1994: François Nars portrait courtesy NArS cosmetics; mAc viva Glam ad by David Lachapelle courtesy mAc cosmetics; 2008, coverGirl ad courtesy coverGirl; minx Nails by becky maynes courtesy minx; 2009, michelle phan portrait courtesy Lancôme; 2010, Liu Wen portrait courtesy estée Lauder; 2012, brad pitt portrait by Greg Williams courtesy chanel.

OctOber 21–26, 2012

NOvember 10, 2012

NOvember 6–8, 2012

NOvember 14, 2012

TFWA Duty Free, Cannes, France www.tfwa.com

CCTFA Foundation Mirror Ball, Toronto www.cctfa.ca

In-Cosmetics Asia, Bangkok, Thailand www.in-cosmeticsasia.com

11th Annual COSA Awards, Toronto www.cosmeticsmag.com

Organizations in the cosmetics, fragrances, toiletries or related industries that want to inform the industry about upcoming special events, exhibitions, conferences, etc., should send information, dates, contact name, address, and telephone and fax numbers to: Calendar of Events, Cosmetics magazine, One Mount Pleasant Road, 8th floor, Toronto, Ontario, M4Y 2Y5 Please note submissions should be made 18 weeks prior to the event to be considered for a listing.

WRITE US &WIN! Write a letter to the editor and you could win a beauty bag filled with products from Smashbox and Bourjois Paris, not to mention the notoriety of getting your letter published in the magazine.

Email your letters (including your city, store and daytime phone number) to cosmeticsmag@cosmetics.rogers.com or mail your letter, along with the ballot on the right, to the address provided.

You can also tweet us your thoughts at @cosmeticsmag. Note: Cosmetics reserves the discretionary right to publish all letters submitted. Letters may be edited for length and content.

Win This BalloT Name: Address: city: province: postal code: email Address: telephone: Store/retailer name: Would you like to be added to the cosmetics’ email Advisory committee?

To enter, mail in this entry form including your name, address, email and telephone number along with your letter to the editor. Address it to: Cosmetics Magazine Win This Contest, Cosmetics Magazine, 1 Mount Pleasant Road, 8th Floor, Toronto, Ontario, M4Y 2Y5

Rules: Limit one entry per person. this contest is not open to employees of rogers media or those living in Quebec. to be eligible to win, all entrants must submit a letter to the editor.

Facsimiles and photocopies are not eligible. please include your return address on your envelope. the draw will be held on October 8, 2012 at 10:00 a.m. at the Cosmetics offices in toronto.

Cosmetics will notify the winner by mail, email or telephone. Cosmetics will then arrange to mail the prizes to the winners. by entering the contest, the winner agrees to have his or her name published in Cosmetics. Cosmetics magazine complies with all privacy laws.

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september 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

looKing For a sales BumP? Canadian Consumers vote on innovation exCellenCe. Find out how your produCt Could beCome a produCt oF the year!

enter now. productoftheyear.ca

publisher’s report

40 Years of

beauty

Jim Hicks Publisher, Cosmetics magazine

94

september 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com

Photo: adam moco

As we celebrAte with this, our 40th AnniversAry issue, it’s hard for me to believe i have been with Cosmetics for more than half the magazine’s life. when i took over as publisher in March 1991, little did i know how much this magazine and this industry would change my life. Admittedly, i didn’t know anything about the beauty business when i joined Cosmetics. i was publisher of an interior design magazine and thought that a foundation went under a house…not on someone’s face. but now, 21 years later, i know how important a skincare regimen is to healthy-looking skin, how to layer fragrance, that cosmetics really can make you look and feel better and that getting a manicure every so often is just as important as having shiny shoes. needless to say, i have learned a lot.

During the last 21 years, we have accomplished many things that have helped define the industry as we know it today. Just some of our milestones: 20 years ago, we released Cosmétiques magazine, serving the French market in canada; 11 years ago, we launched the annual cosA awards that have grown to be one of the industry’s biggest and most popular events; seven years ago, we started the canadian Fragrance Awards, which continues to expand every year; six years ago, we launched our “i recommend” beauty Awards where canada’s beauty experts vote for their most reommended beauty products; and three years ago, we started the visual Display Awards to recognize the great work of our in-store visual display professionals. throughout all of this, we published 206 issues of Cosmetics and Cosmétiques, 60 supplements covering the luxury market, the men’s market, trends, haircare, nail care and many more. let’s just say, we’ve been busy!

My predecessor, ed bodner, started Cosmetics in september 1972 and i think, if he were alive today, he would be proud of his magazine and how far it’s come. ed was very passionate about the beauty industry in canada and i know he would be happy with everything we have done as we continue to inform our readers, far beyond the magazines’ pages. over the years, i’ve made many good friends who have become a big part of my life socially and professionally. i’ve met many of the beauty advisors that work in our stores across the country and i continue to admire your passion for this industry, for the products you sell and for the customers you serve. you make our job very enjoyable. we hope you love our 40th Anniversary issue. Keep up the great work you do every day. have a great fall selling season.

Shawn’s Training Tips

SMASHBOX

CAMERA READY BB CREAM 101: Shawn Hlowat zki

Award Winning National Trainer Smashbox Cosmetics in Canada

• • • • •

PRIMES PERFECTS PROTECTS HYDRATES CONTROLS OIL

BB Cream gives you sheer to light coverage with a natural finish.

Wear alone, or under your favorite foundation to create a smooth canvas. Apply with clean fingertips.

BB BENEFITS:

MORE BENEFITS OVER TIME:

• • • • •

• Reduces the appearance of lines and wrinkles • Improves skin moisture in just 4 weeks.

Guaranteed.

• Reduces skin surface sebum • Improves skin radiance

Reduces the appearance of pores Evens forFoundation a flawless fiPrimer nish | PERFECTS SKIN Photo skin Finish Guards against harmful UVA/UVB rays with SPF 35 • Our #1 best seller •Hydrates Helps reduce the look of lines & pores skin Controls oil without a chalky, matte finish

Photo Finish Foundation Primer Light | REFRESHES OILY/ACNE OR SENSITIVE SKIN • Provides a matte finish • Contains light diffusers, vitamin C and peptides Photo Finish Foundation Primer SPF 15 with Dermaxyl Complex | DEFIES AGING • Clinically proven to reduce wrinkles over time • SPF 15 for broad spectrum protection Photo Finish Hydrating Foundation Primer | HYDRATES SKIN • Gives complexion a moisture boost; quenches skin and then seals in moisture • Helps reduce the look of lines & pores Photo Finish Color Correcting Foundation Primer in Adjust | BANISHES REDNESS • Green-toned to reduce redness • Contains vitamins A & E, lemongrass, aloe, soybean oil & orchid complex Photo Finish Color Correcting Foundation Primer in Blend | EVENS SKIN TONE • Apricot-toned to even out skin tone and counteract dark spots • Contains vitamins A & E, lemongrass, aloe, soybean oil & orchid complex

Photo Finish Color Correcting Foundation Primer in Balance | BRIGHTENS SKIN TONE • Lavender-toned to brighten dull skin • Contains vitamins A & E, lemongrass, aloe, soybean oil & orchid complex

BB CREAM’S PERFECT MATCH For more coverage, pair BB with Smashbox Halo Hydrating Perfecting Powder. The BB cream a Ready box Camer Smash Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primers are packed with good-for-your-skin ingredients and have the quality, revolutionary, anti-aging powder contains outdoo and active for an great and istexture finish that make themrsy a MUST for any client. They have 8 different types to and suit all skin needs and work are gold, minerals amino acids that SPF 35 gives a primer to my clients. When it comes to primers, no one beats Smashbox! e the recommending becauswhen woman my first, choice together to perfect skin. a great protection and its matifying Eric Hudd keeps shine at bay for the texture *And since BB Cream looks great alone, it’s Pharmaprix #42 it a try, it will day. Give whole the perfect go-to for quick, camera-ready MontrealQuebec summer must have! e your becom skin in a flash.

INSIDER SECRETS REVEALED

INSIDER SECRETS REVEALED

Jenny Ha PQ 43 Place Versaille s Montreal-Quebec