Men's Guide 2011

Fight Aging

2011 Men’s Grooming Handbook

> CANADA’S #1

MEN’S ANTI-AGING LINE CHRIS NOTH

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2. CREAM: With its nutri-replenishing power the skin looks firmer and wrinkles appear reduced.

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Visible Results:** Skin feels firmer: 88%. Skin tone looks brighter: 90%. Wrinkles appear replenished: 67%.

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A MAN’S SKIN

How does a man’s skin differ from a woman’s?

2011 Men’s Grooming Guide Anti-Aging Issue

There are significant physiological differences between the two. To start, men’s skin is up to 20% thicker, features a dermal structure richer in collagen fibers, and is better supplied with water.

Overall, it is denser than a woman’s and produces twice as much sebum thanks to a greater number of sebaceous glands that are more

active.This tends to make skin naturally greasier often resulting in shiny patches and imperfections. Scientists have

discovered that men’s skin requires a greater energy supply. “Think of a man’s skin like a business card,” explains Biotherm Homme’s Lucien Aubert. “It’s tougher so it ages much slower at first. But when it is bent, the lines show. That’s how wrinkles act on men’s skin.”

A Man’s Skin

Men’s skin is up to 20% THicker then women’s

hormones Y es.have“Male a very pronounced effect on skin,” says Clinique for Men’s Dr. David Orentreich. “They make skin stronger by improving or enlarging the middle layer of skin, which is the dermis, with collagen.” He says it’s these same male hormones that are responsible for turning on the oil glands.

Dr. Caroline Debbasch of the Vichy Laboratories

Institute says the secretion of androgens in male skin results in testosterone levels ten times higher than found in women’s skin. This makes it very different from both a physiological and structural point of view. Her lab’s research indicates ingredients such as vitamin C, silicium, magnesium and calcium seem to be most effective on testosteronerich skin.

Men’s skin contains high levels of testosterone but as we age, these levels drop.

Men’s Skin Aging Timeline

Teens

S ebaceous glands are most active resulting in oily skin and often blemishes. Sun damage can accumulate without proper protection.

20’s

L ack of sleep and good nutrition can lead to skin looking fatigued. It can become dull and sallow.

30’s

Crow’s feet and fine lines around the eyes can appear.

40’s

50’s

F orehead wrinkles appear and can quickly deepen. Sun damage becomes evident: age spots, discolouring, uneven texture.

T he nasogenian folds can become pronounced. Under-eye bags can appear.

60’s

Sagging of the lower face accelerates.

Cover image: Olivier Cadeaux/Corbis. Top left: Strellson. Bottom right istock

ntly that I’ve read rece ve determined scientists ha le in plays a key ro testosterone ves? ages and beha how men’s skin

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©CHANEL, Inc. CHANEL ® BLEU DE CHANEL TM

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ver 80% of the factors we consider aging such as wrinkles, age spots, uneven skin tone, sagging skin, are due to sun damage, says Dr. Paul Cohen, a Toronto-based dermatologist.

“It’s the continuous wear and tear that UV rays cause on cellular DNA and proteins that visibly ages our skin.” He says if you only use one skincare product each day, make it a broad-spectrum sunscreen that protects against UVA and UVB rays. “This will keep you looking younger, longer than anything else.” In fact, the most advanced anti-aging formulas won’t make any headway if you aren’t protecting skin from future sun damage. “It’s the best $18 you’ll spend.”

But what if I stay inside most of the time?

Our skin is repeatedly exposed to varying levels of UV light through car window glass, intermittent outdoor tasks and office windows. These small, irregular doses of UVA exposure can be sufficient to cause photodamage. The

Smoking accelerates the skin aging process by up to 10 years.

Sun and Smoking

IF I QUIT SMOKING WILL I LOOK YOUNGER? Let’s put it this way: Smoking accelerates the skin aging process by up to 10 years. That’s because nicotine and tobacco, both potent carcinogens, reduce blood flow and cause blood

vessels to constrict or tighten. This reduces the amount of oxygen reaching the cells. Smoking causes carbon monoxide levels in blood to increase and consequently promotes the formation of age-inducing

longer UVA rays that do the most damage are 20 times higher than UVB rays. For example, sitting in the shade can still expose you to 50% of damaging UVA radiation.

Find a brand and texture you like and use it daily.

free radicals. This often leads to premature wrinkling, particularly around the mouth and eyes.

What’s worse, cigarette smoke stains teeth and skin. If you want to look younger, ditch the habit.

Age Accelerators

Marlon Brando image: Hulton Archive/Getty. Top right: Masterfile. Bottom right: istock

2011 2011 Men’s Men’s Grooming Grooming Guide Guide Anti-Aging Anti-Aging Issue Issue SUN SUN AND & SMOKING

g, we were When I was youn in school to always taught in the summer. wear sunscreen should wear it Now, I read we is really make daily. Does th a difference?

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TWO WAYS TO BE CONVINCED FUSION PROGLIDE IS GILLETTE’S MOST COMFORTABLE RAZOR. ®

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TRUST ALL OF OUR PATENTS,, OR JUST TRY IT. The Gillette® Fusion® ProGlide® is engineered with thinner, finer blades for less tug and pull 2 and an effortless glide.

You’ll get incredible comfort, even if you shave every day.

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Gillette® Fusion® ProGlide® turns shaving into gliding.

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The act of running a sharp blade over your skin each morning is traumatic for skin. This can lead to

irritation, inflammation and reactive skin – which tends to show the signs of aging faster. So to look younger, longer, you need to streamline your shaving.

1

Prepare the beard

minutes to soak into the beard. (We love Kiss My Face Moisture Shave.)

2

Invest in a good quality razor

3

Moisturize

Shaving technology has made great strides in the last five years. Fusion and Mach3 offer the least friction on skin while providing a clean, professional shave.

Sooth shaved skin with a gentle moisturizer or balm. It will calm irritated skin and protect from drying which can lead to tight, uncomfortable sensations.

Shaving makes men’s skin more vulnerable to showing the signs of aging.

Shaving

Top right image courtesy of BOSS Black. Middle image courtesy of Zegna. Bottom left: istock

Why blade razors are a key anti-aging tool According to Clinique for Men’s Dr. David Orentreich, new research indicates that men’s skin ages later in life thanks to your morning shave. “Exfoliation as a result of daily shaving over many, many years appears to be anti-aging.”

• The average shave cuts

25,000 hairs from a man’s face.

• Close to 70% of American

“Men will spend an average of six months shaving throughout their lifespan,”

...... says Caroline Debbasch, scientific director for the Vichy Laborato-

ries Institute in France. “In the areas where hairs grow (such as on the beard and neck), the cutaneous barrier is regularly irritated by shaving.

This makes men’s skin more reactive.” She says 95% of the male population will experience irritation and redness at some point in their lives due to shaving.

woman prefer a clean-shaven man.

• Beards are usually thickest around the age of 35.

• The upper lip boasts the highest number of hair follicles on the face.

• A British man lost his

license when caught shaving while driving at 70 mph.

SHAVING

Holding a warm, washcloth over your beard for 60 seconds will improve your shaving immensely. It softens the beard (which has the consistency of copper wire). Use a good quality shave cream and give it a couple of

2011 Men’s Grooming Guide Anti-Aging Issue

ing Routine a Gentle Shav t op Ad r. ge Look Youn

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Top left image courtesy of Zegna. Bottom right image courtesy of BOSS Black. Top right: istock

First sign of skin aging: fatigue I travel more than half the year for work. Last week, I looked in the mirror before a meeting and was shocked AT how tired I looked.

If you regularly travel over numerous time zones and log long hours on the road, an antifatigue moisturizer may

just be your best grooming investment. Apply a little before a dinner meeting or conference and look more refreshed immediately.The

caffeine and ginseng in most products will immediately make you look more rested by stimulating circulation.

N

on-hydrated skin is prone to showing signs of aging faster,” says Dr. Debbasch. “For that reason, men need to hydrate their skin with a good moisturizer every day.” Apply a light weight cream or gel over damp skin after shaving. The hyaluronic acid binds

the moisture to the skin providing comfort and protection to skin throughout the day.

“It’s important to understand that good skincare is cumulative.

The earlier you start, the better the results will be over the long term,” advises Dr. Lisa Kellett. “I personally like to see my clients start with a good quality Retinol product in their early 30s when they start seeing signs of aging and fatigue. It’s still the gold standard in anti-aging ingredients.”

BATTLING SKIN FATIGUE

Battling Skin Fatigue

to Why do I need zing start moisturi RIGHT now?

2011 Men’s Grooming Guide Anti-Aging Issue

Late nights, overscheduled workdays, and lack of sleep can lead to tired, dull skin. This usually occurs in your late 20s or early 30s and is one of the first signs of aging in men. To revive your skin, look for a moisturizer containing ginseng, caffeine and vitamins A, E and C. This energizing cocktail reduces the signs of fatigue by stimulating circulation. Magnesium paired with vitamin C has been proven to stimulate metabolism to recharge cells’ energy levels.

First signs of aging in men The skin around the eye area is much thinner and fragile than anywhere else on the body.

d tiny ve just notice I’m 35 and ha weren’t my eyes. They nd ou ar s ne li there before.

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elcome to the aging process. Men tend to show the signs of aging much later than women but when the signs appear, they tend to be more dramatic. The skin around the eye area is much thinner and fragile than anywhere else on the body.Therefore, it is prone to show damage first. Myo-aging is caused by the natural and repeated movement of the face (like blinking and squinting).The contraction of the muscles generates tension lines on the skin.The contraction of the skin results in the hypercontraction of fibroblasts, cells in the dermis responsible for producing collagen and elastin.

The fibroblasts pull the cushion of elastin and collagen.The skin remains contracted, the folds set: a wrinkle appears.

How do I get rid of the lines around my eyes?

Chronological aging is a natural process and can’t be stopped. That said, you can reduce their appearance with the help of a good eye product.

We particularly like eye rollerballs. Just roll on the blend of vitamin C, caffeine, ginseng and peptides and watch the fine lines lesson. Dark circles are diminished as circulation is enhanced.

Hyaluronic acid plumps up skin to make

it look refreshed and younger.

• The skin around the eye area overlies a particularly dense capillary network and has minimal fat padding. This makes the area prone to puffiness.

• The faces of 25 and 35 year old men usually differ mainly in the eye area.

• The skin around the eye area tends to age faster than the rest of your face.

Matt Bomer image courtesy of CTV. Middle image: Veer. Top right: istock

The Eyes 2011 Men’s Grooming Guide Anti-Aging Issue

T he Eyes

of water. Just think of it as spaghetti – when it is dry, it is very difficult to cut.

When it is boiled in water, it cuts very easily. The

hand. Don’t press down 3. moisturize with force. If you suffer from ingrown hairs and fter cleansing and irritation, replace your shaving, skin needs a good blades every five days. moisturizer to lock in water.

4. treat

a

The Best Anti-Aging Regime for Men

m

“

Middle image courtesy of Strellson. Small images from top left counter-clockwise: Veer, Veer, istock, istock, istock

he most effective anti-aging ingredients can’t penetrate into the skin to do their work if there is a thick layer of oil and pollution on the surface. Get into the habit of using a gentle cleanser morning and night to remove the impurities from your face. Gel formulas work best for oily skin and creams for dryer conditions.

Use luke-warm water and be sure to thoroughly rinse when finished.

y male patients are very results-oriented,” says Dr. Lisa Kellett. “So I usually prescribe a Retinol or vitamin A product to address wrinkles in clients after the age of 30. It’s still the gold standard in anti-aging ingredients.”

This is the step where you can address any specific skincare concerns such as acne, crow’s feet, or wrinkles.

5. sun protection

We’ve interviewed dermatologists, skin scientists, doctors and skincare specialists across the country to find the most effective anti-aging regime for men. Here’s what your best, results-driven approach to skincare.

2. shave

t

he direction of beard growth can be haphazard, so I always tell men to lubricate the beard very, very well before shaving,” says Dr. Orentreich.“The hair is a protein that has the ability to absorb a lot

same is true with our beard.” Use a good quality shave gel or cream to reduce friction on the surface of the skin when shaving. Invest in a good quality razor. And always shave in the same direction as the beard.

Remember, use a light

This will make your skin feel more comfortable and will plump up skin to hide fine lines and wrinkles. It will also sooth any irritation from shaving.Think of it as a protective barrier for your skin as your head out to face the day.

w

e’ve saved the most important step for last.

Apply an alcohol-based sunscreen every day – summer and winter. Over 80% of the signs of aging are caused by sun damage.

Prevent any more damage and give those anti-aging ingredients a chance to work with daily protection.

ANTI-AGING REGIME

t

2011 Men’s Grooming Guide Anti-Aging Issue

1. cleanse

FIRMING

• 43% of men’s firming products are initially bought by women. Subsequently, men return themselves and replenish their supplies.

• In 1990, only 4% of men used anti-aging products. Today, that number exceeds 28%.

Firming give sagging the upper cut Skin Firming Savvy

My skin is visibly starting to sag.

What’s going on?

Crow’s feet, forehead wrinkles, exaggerated nasogenian folds, under eye bags and sagging of the lower face are the key signs of skin aging in men. Sagging occurs when the collagen fibers within the skin start to break down and fibroblast production slows. The foundation of the skin starts to cave in and skin sags. Skincare companies are solving this by a combination of skin tensing ingredients, peptidees that increase collagen production and bio-actives that protect dermal supporting fibres.

Today’s new generation of men’s firming products boasts cutting-edge science.

Here are some key ingredients to look for in quality products:

1. Tensor polymers envelop the skin and visibly reduce the depth of fine lines.

2. A mineral silica solution transforms the way light reflects off the skin to

make it look smoother. This technology was perfected in women’s skincare products.

3. Bio-active ingredients target reactive fibroblasts to stimulate the skin’s natural ability to produce collagen and elastin. Think of these two substances as the foundation of the skin. They keep the skin structure firm and well supported.

4. Anti-UV sunscreens filter out UVA and UVB rays that cause premature

skin aging.

5. Active hydrating ingredients improve moisture levels in the epidermis.

Look for new versions of hyaluronic acid.

6. Silicium is a natural ingredient found in skin that plays an important role in keeping connective tissue firm and key to regenerating and restructuring elastin and collagen fibers. It’s a common and effective ingredient in men’s anti-aging products.

Top left image: istock. Top right image: Dimitri Vervitsiotis/Getty. Bottom image: Corbis right: Jonny Le Fortune/Corbis

2011 Men’s Grooming Guide Anti-Aging Issue

Anti-aging & firming products are the fastest growing segments in the men’s skincare market.

prada.com

When it comes to buying a car or new HD TV, most guys look to Consumer Reports to find which makes and models perform best. Every brand has a product or two that excels in its category. It’s the same with men’s grooming products. If you are new to the men’s skincare market, we recommend you try these particular products first. Each delivers exceptional quality and is great value for the money.

Homme therm 1. Bio Supreme Force der Rebuil Actor Chris Noth may be the face of Biotherm Homme, but he honestly doesn’t leave home without this anti-aging product.

Inspired by the sleek contours of a triple-headed electric razor, this anti-aging product features a trio of roll-on applicators with three active ingredients with three actions.

Caffeine helps to redefine facial contours, diminish the appearance of under eye bags and lessen double chins. Soy protein helps to re-tighten the epidermis and reduce furrows and wrinkles. And kreatilane re-energizes cellular activity. Spend 30 seconds a day rolling this super light formula onto the skin and watch the firming action. $60

e y Homm 2.Vich tation rri Anti-I g Gel i Shav n There’s nothing more irritating in the morning than noticing nicks or rashes from shaving. The first step to solving this problem is a good quality shave gel that calms skin and provides a protecting film over skin. This one fits the bill. $13.50

ins 3.Clar ue ig t Men Fa r e t h g Fi

or ique f 5.Clin Defense e Men Ag yes, r o f E

If you pulled a late night at the office but have a big client meeting this morning, reach for this energizing and revitalizing product.

Sunflower auxins and extracts of Bison Grass and Chinese Galanga refresh tired skin. You’ll look noticeably brighter and more rested. $43

What we like about this product is how quickly it works. The cocktail of ingredients effectively moisturizes, visibly reduces puffiness, diminishes dark circles and protects against future damage. It effectively addresses multiple signs of aging around the eye area. $28

usion ette F 6.Gill de Razor ProGli A great razor can solve a myriad of skin issues: ingrown hairs, irritation, nicks and cuts.

And we love the new Fusion ProGlide Razor.

The blades boast thinner, finer edges enabling the blades to cut effortlessly with less tug and pull. A blade stabilizer allows the blades to adjust to the contours of a man’s face.

A great product. $14.99

en eido M 6.Shis inkle r Deep W tor e r r Co c When deep wrinkles start to appear, turn to this high-tech formula boasting Retinol A Complex and a Damage Defense Complex to promote skin firmness and elasticity.

Shiseido is a leader in skincare technology in Asia and that expertise is evident in this product. $65

Right image: courtesy of Strellson

STAR PRODUCTS 2011 Men’s Grooming Guide Anti-Aging Issue

Men’s Grooming Star Products

FRAGRANCE

YES, according to research spearheaded by Roja Dove, author of The Essence of Perfume, who studies the connection between smell and our subconscious. He says scent bypasses the rational mind and directly influences our perceptions. We make immediate judgments about people based on how they smell. Harvey Prince, who is considered the pioneer in “Smart Scent Science,” blended the first anti-age perfume in 2008, which he called “Ageless Fantasy.” His research indicated that when a person reaches the age of 40, he secretes a chemical called noneal, which has a grassy, greasy odor that traditional scents don’t mask. By using a trademarked combination of jasmine and grapefruit, the wearer was judged to be eight years younger than his age.

Fragrance SMell younger

Citrus and Ginger: Youthful notes “Younger men today appreciate high energy notes of citrus and fruits and aromatic notes of cardamom and ginger,” says Givaudan perfumer Natasha Cote. “Citrus notes (such as grapefruit, lemon and blood orange) are seen as energizing and fresh.”

ke Don’t smell li r he at your grandf trends like fashion evolve. To be F ragrance seen as current, you need to keep up. “In

the upcoming years, we will see classic scents modernized. Expect to see sensual dark fragrances reinvented through chypre fruitiness or spicy chypres,” says Cote. “I think you’ll see Orientals with olibanum (frankincense) and incense notes. Florals will be done in a masculine way.”

Decade Defining Scents: A Men’s Fragrance Timeline

1970’s

Fougere (green fern-like) notes. Old Spice, Brut and Paco Rabanne defined this era.

1980’s

1990’s

Citrus-floral-woody-marine notes. Acqua di Gio and L’Eau d’Issey defined this era using new “eaux” molecules. Herbs and fruits came into play in the mid 90s with Polo Sport and Tommy. New gourmands, musks and fresh Orientals emerged in the late 1990s with Le Male.

Chypre-leathery scents were popular at the beginning of the decade. Aramis and Polo were key brands. Animalistic notes became popular with Yves Saint Laurent Kouros then a new freshness by the end of the decade with Cool Water and Drakkar Noir.

2000’s

2010’s

Fresh, energizing gourmands. Pepper is a big ingredient as is saffron and infusing florals. Marc Jacobs Bang and Burberry Brit Sport for Men.

Modern woods and fresh Oriental notes. Armani Code and Dolce and Gabbana The One illustrate this trend. A casual masculine freshness.

Top image: Brooke Fasani Auchincloss/Corbis

2011 Men’s Grooming Guide Anti-Aging Issue

Can certain fragrance notes make you smell younger?

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