Ingredients 101

VITAMIN A+

Why retinaldehyde could be the perfect anti-aging upgrade for your spring skincare routine By Lora Grady

RETINOL HAS LONG BEEN touted as one of the best multi-tasking skincare solutions, since it takes on wrinkles, fine lines and blemishes. But if you’ve been using it for a while and you’re looking for something stronger, it typically requires a visit to the dermatologist. That’s why more skincare brands are using retinaldehyde, or retinal, in night creams and serums. It’s a precursor to tretinoin, which is stronger than retinol and requires a prescription.

“Topical retinol, or vitamin A, and its derivatives like retinaldehyde are among the most efective substances in over-the-counter cosmeceuticals when it comes to slowing the skin-aging process,” says Dr. Jason Rivers, medical director at Vancouver’s Pacific Derm and clinical professor in the Department of Dermatology and Skin Science at the University of British Columbia. The short-term benefits include improved cell renewal, he says, and over time, you’ll notice improved skin texture, a reduction in fine lines and less visible pores.

“Retinaldehyde is like the fountain of youth,” says Maxine Ryan, senior trainer at Avène’s parent company Pierre Fabre. The first brand in the world to use the ingredient, Avène has been using retinaldehyde in its products since 1994. As skin ages, Ryan says, the amount of collagen and elastin we produce also decreases, causing fine lines and wrinkles. “Retinaldehyde activates the synthesis of collagen and elastin, increasing skin’s firmness.”

Most skin types can benefit from retinaldehyde, says Dr. Rivers (though it’s important to note that pregnant women should avoid retinoids altogether). “Because it’s generally better tolerated than tretinoin, people with sensitive skin can try it.” Still, he recommends an acclimatization period. Ryan adds that it’s normal to experience some sensitivity and slight flaking. Both she and Dr. Rivers recommend using the cream two or three times a week at first to allow your skin to adjust. Dr. Rivers also recommends avoiding alcohol-based toners or high-concentration chemical peels while using retinaldehyde. The sun can decrease the efcacy of retinoids, so use it at night and don’t forget the SPF in the morning. EVENING REMEDIES

Made with retinaldehyde and Avène’s signature thermal spring water, this hydrating night treatment helps to smooth skin texture while reducing the appearance of blemishes.

AVÈNE Cleanance Women Smoothing Night Cream, $40, at Shoppers Drug Mart.

This multitasking cream combines retinaldehyde with peptides, antioxidants and moisturereplenishing extracts including white willow bark, to reduce fne lines and pigmentation.

AFRICAN BOTANICS Retinal Night Cream, $200 (USD), at AfricanBotanics.com.

With retinaldehyde and fve percent niacinamide, this serum works to smooth skin’s texture while brightening uneven skin tone.

YOUTH TO THE PEOPLE Retinal + Niacinamide Youth Serum, $68, at Sephora.